NEWMARKLIFE PUBLICATION ISSUE 2

LIFE NEWMARK

CONTENTS

SUMMER 2024/25

8 LETTER FROM THE CEO

Neil Markovitz welcomes you to the summer issue.

JOURNAL

12 ROOM FOR ART

Transforming their spaces into cultural hubs, discerning hotels are redefining luxury by curating bespoke art collections for an immersive guest experience.

16 WEST AFRICA’S BESTKEPT (GOLFING) SECRET

Less than 50km outside Lagos, you’ll find a world-class golf resort at Lakowe Lakes Golf & Country Estate.

18 A LEGEND RELAUNCHES

In a celebration of heritage, landmark Cape Town property The Lenox is set to be restored as a boutique hotel with a permanent artist residency.

20 THE DRINKS OF SUMMER

Everything you should be sipping at some of the Mother City’s coolest bars.

22 JOZI’S GEMS

Centrally located in Sandton,

The Catalyst Hotel is an ideal base to explore the cultural diversity and variety of activities on offer in Johannesburg.

24 CAPE TOWN: AN INSIDER’S GUIDE

10 Secret (okay, lesser-known!) Cape Peninsula experiences you need to try this season.

28 SOAK IT UP

A wood-fired hot tub is the vacation essential you didn’t know you needed.

30 A SUMMER OF STYLE

A stylish collection of the best local gifts and travel essentials.

CAPE TO QWABI

Join us for an African Odyssey from the Waterfront to the Waterberg. ON THE COVER

COASTAL

Enjoy the splendour of Africa’s most luxurious seaside destinations.

32 OUR LOCAL FOOD HEROES

Group Head Chef Chris Erasmus is committed to supporting local, uplifting small businesses, and giving guests the most authentic dining experience. Meet our trusted suppliers.

42 OUT OF THIS WORLD

New fine-dining restaurant, Terrarium, by Group Head Chef Chris Erasmus is now open at the Queen Victoria Hotel, bringing fresh, sophisticated flavours with a creative spin and a focus on sustainability.

44 THE HIDDEN WATERFRONT

Beyond the bustle of the pier and the designer shopping, discover a quieter, historic precinct. Take a walk with us.

50 THE MANY FACES OF ÎLE MAURICE

Find true relaxation on this beach paradise – no matter what side of the island you choose.

EXPLORER

Discover new paths through the heart of Africa and its unforgettable destinations.

54 CAPE TO QWABI

From the best location in the Waterfront to the vast wilderness of the Waterberg. Plus, we introduce you to expert guide and renowned elephant whisperer Wikus Potgieter.

58 MOTSWARI: A NEW RETREAT IN ANCIENT AFRICA

Discover the healing power of being in the bush at Motswari’s African Retreat

62 A FOREST OASIS

Explore the wonders of Uganda’s forests at Gorilla Heights Lodge, a luxurious, eco-friendly retreat.

66 THE GREAT ESCAPE

What does it really mean to get away? These destinations are the answer.

PORTFOLIO

The insider’s guide to discovering the secrets of Africa’s hottest cities.

72 A WILD, WILD LIFE

Experience wildlife from your city base! Caracals, sharks, penguins, baboons, antelope, whales, orcas, snakes… Welcome to the Wild South!

78 BIKE THE CITY

Bicycling is the best way to explore Cape Town’s inner city and coastline. Hire a bike today and explore these four essential routes!

80 ON THE TOWN

Find the perfect base to enjoy the summer buzz in Cape Town this season.

84 INSIDE THE NEW ERA OF LUXURY TRAVEL

Future Found Sanctuary luxury hotel in Cape Town offers more than just opulent accommodation, it delivers an immersive experience in nature, redefining luxury through space, privacy and authentic service.

88 FINDING SANCTUARY

Transformative travel is no longer just about taking a break from the hustle for a few days – it has the potential to change your everyday habits, for life.

90 ROOM WITH A VIEW

For uninterrupted seaside views of the entire Atlantic Seaboard, including Robben Island, check into La Splendida Hotel on the promenade.

LETTER FROM THE CEO

Welcome to the second issue of Newmark Life, and the start of the busy summer season.

First of all, thank you for your generous feedback on the launch issue. We were overwhelmed by the response to our first magazine as a showcase for the incredible properties in our portfolio and the stories they inspire.

For this second issue, we’re thrilled to once again update you on a host of exciting new developments, just in time for the recent news on the continuing growth of travel to our magical continent.

According to the Ministry of Tourism, South Africa welcomed over 5.8 million visitors in the first eight months of 2024, which is an increase of 7% compared to the same period last year. I have no doubt that we’re going to experience an even busier summer season throughout Africa, as the continent is experiencing similar tourism trends.

The good news is that we are expanding our presence in Africa as we continue to establish relationships with partners with a shared vision of excellence. Our latest partnership is in Uganda with Gorilla Heights Lodge – for a taste of this special lodge in the forest, see the teaser story on page 62.

Looking ahead, in 2026, we are due to launch in Zimbabwe with our breathtaking explorer’s outpost, Twalumba, which boasts uninterrupted views over Victoria Falls. We’ll reveal the full story in an upcoming issue.

In celebration of a great African escape, I’m especially proud of this month’s cover, which shows the magnificent landscape of QWABI, a gem in the Waterberg and a must-visit destination if you’re looking for the ultimate trip to the bush. Explore this African Odyssey on page 54, including the remarkable story of guide and elephant whisperer, Wikus Potgieter.

Wherever you choose to spend your sun-filled days, we trust you’ll enjoy a truly African welcome.

NEIL MARKOVITZ Chief Executive Officer at Newmark Hotels & Reserves

colours, create your own artwork, or dive into making the best slime ever. It’s fun for the entire family—all ages and all abilities are welcome!

With studios across South Africa,

to

Experience Authentic

NEWMARK HOTELS & RESERVES

Neil Markovitz

Mike Vroom

Global Chief

Financial Officer Garth Musikanth

Director of Marketing eaton Quarmby

Newmark Life is published twice annually by Photodeli Custom Media Solutions on behalf of Newmark Hotels

Merchant House, 19 Dock Road, Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, Cape Town, 8001

For media enquiries, please contact keaton@newmarkhotels.com

To book any of the hotels & reserves featured Newmark Life, please contact 021 427 5901, email reservations@ newmarkhotels.com or visit our website www.newmarkhotels.com.

PUBLISHING TEAM

Publisher & Commercial Sales: Marc Blachowitz marc@photodeli.co.za +27 82 990 1926

Editor

Jason Brown

Art Director

Michelle von Schlicht

Copy Editor

Leigh Champanis-King

Contributors

Nickey Bothma, Scott Clarkson, Pippa de Bruyn, Dook, Ryan Enslin, Sean Gibson, Claire Gunn, Richard Holmes, Kris Marx, Arnold Mugasha, Wanita Nicol, Alain Proust, Andrew Thompson, Bruce Tuck, Nick van der Touw, Norma Young

Printers

Shirley Bosman at SAGPrint shirley@sagprint.co.za

JOURNAL

NEWS, VIEWS, TRENDS & SPENDS

ROOM FOR ART

Transforming their spaces into cultural hubs, discerning South African hotels are redefining luxury by curating bespoke art collections for an immersive guest experience

Over the past decade, South Africa’s contemporary art scene has experienced a somewhat kaleidoscopic explosion, blending sophistication, creativity and history in intoxicating new ways. Beyond the the country’s varied art institutions lies an unexpected canvas: luxury hotels.

BY RYAN ENSLIN

Art meets luxury

Art and luxury have always walked hand in hand in cities worldwide to elevate the guest experience. In Cape Town, this approach has taken on a unique flavour as astute establishments spotlight the work of South African artists. This, in turn, transforms the traditional hotel space into a destination where travellers unlock the city’s soul through its artists’ eyes.

“At Newmark, our individualised approach to hospitality management

celebrates each hotel’s unique character through their approach to art and decor, often driven by the owner,” shares Neil Markovitz, CEO of Newmark Hotels & Reserves.

Your own private gallery

Along the Atlantic seaboard, at the grande dame of Sea Point, the Winchester Hotel, an eclectic collection of artworks is to be found throughout the property. Here, the owners’ love of

The Winchester Hotel.

Opposite page: IS Art Gallery at Blaauklippen.

art and penchant for collecting, dating back to 1985, translates into a time of artistic whimsy as you move through the hotel, with original pieces in every room. Expect to lay your head to rest with names like Ruth Squibb, Philip Erskine and Mandy McKay.

A portrait of a Queen

Entering the Queen Victoria Hotel on the historic Portswood Ridge in the Waterfront, you will be greeted by Queen Victoria herself – through the eyes of South African artist Nigel Mullins. The work, rather obviously a portrait of Queen Victoria, reveals its more sculptural elements upon closer inspection.

The Everard Read Gallery, just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel, curates the hotel’s collection. Taking in the Mullins, gallery director Emma Vandermerwe shares, “The artist has chosen to surrender to gesture and form in this piece.” The frame has been incorporated into the artwork with dripping paint and added pieces of wire. “These elements speak to the metaphor of the work, being a portrait, yet up close reveal the layers of time that inform who such figures are – human. It’s a wonderfully playful piece,” continues Emma.

Celebrating the hotel’s sweeping views over Table Mountain, Emma has subtly referenced landscapes in the

displayed works. “You are confronted by natural landscapes everywhere in this hotel, so we’ve included this Setlamorago Mashilo piece, which speaks into the landscape – as in the internal landscape and the landscape of Africa.” The artistic and natural elements provide a great counterbalance to each other in this space.

From the city to the bushveld

The Queen Victoria Hotel also houses two striking pieces by local artist and Motswari Private Game Reserve owner Marion Geiger-Orengo. Motswari weaves art into the essence of your bushveld experience with carefully selected pieces

From left: Queen Victoria Hotel; For Imaginary Hazards by artist Nigel Mullins.

Opposite page, from left: Motswari’s owner and artist, Marion GeigerOrengo, in her bushveld studio; artwork by Marion.

“WE CONTINUE OUR COMMITMENT TO CELEBRATING LOCAL ART IN THE PROPERTIES WE MANAGE.”

by Marion herself and other artists spread across the camp, including the recently refurbished Geiger’s Camp. These works mirror the hues and tones of the natural world beyond their frames. Marion keeps a studio at Motswari and can often be found indulging her creative flair in this corner of the Timbavati, surrounded by the Big Five.

Celebrating emerging talent

“We continue our commitment to celebrating local art in the properties we manage,” says Markovitz, continuing, “we are particularly excited about an upcoming project, The Lenox, which will include an art residency programme.”

In Stellenbosh, at the historic Blaauwklippen farm, IS Art Gallery owner Ilse Schermers has applied a wonderfully playful approach to curating works throughout the tasting room. The space regularly hosts exhibitions to further drive exposure for emerging local talent.

Up on the Rand

The celebration of art continues along the plateau of the Rand, where, at Joburgbased The Catalyst Hotel, the Kashew Restaurant serves as an ever-changing gallery. Nestled in the heart of the plush, trendy suburb of Sandton, artworks adorn the walls surrounding the tables and lobby of the hotel. The works are distinctly

pan-African – expect to take in pieces by Cameroonian Jibril Linjoum Achu and Teboho Makoatsa, who takes inspiration from everyday life in South Africa.

A vibrant keepsake

As South Africa continues to thrive as a global destination, many of its hotels are embracing art to offer guests a more immersive, culturally enriching stay. And as guests bid the continent farewell, they don’t just carry with them memories of fine dining and breathtaking views, they depart with a piece of South Africa’s vibrant artistic spirit, having connected with local culture in an intimate and lasting way.

WEST AFRICA’S BEST-KEPT (GOLFING) SECRET

Discover a world-class golf resort and country estate less than 50km outside Lagos

Head east out of Lagos for about an hour and a half and you’ll start to feel the city, and your stress, fade away. You’ll find yourself in a tropical paradise of sport, leisure and relaxation.

Lakowe Lakes Golf & Country Estate, often described as ‘West Africa’s best-kept secret’, is a beautiful, luxury community nestled in a peaceful neighbourhood about 50km from the hustle and bustle of Nigeria’s vibrant capital.

The tropical palm groves, glistening lakes, manicured green grass and powdery white sand bunkers at one of the most pristine 18-hole golf courses in

West Africa are part of what gives this parkland estate its appeal.

Sitting on 98 hectares of land, the Lakowe Lakes golf course, designed by Robert O’Friel, is an 18-hole, par72 championship course that sits alongside a lighted nine-hole, par-3 golf course. Measuring just over 6 700 metres from the championship tees and a friendly 5 395 metres from the front tees, the course offers a traditional outand-back routing, offering players of all levels a host of varied shot opportunities along the way. The Golf Club is arguably one of the largest in Nigeria with some of the top golfers in the country, an academy armed with the right expertise and pro-golfers, a driving range and a clubhouse that plays host exclusively to the members of the club.

Founded in 2012, the community was designed by a team of award-winning professionals, and is strategically located on the Lekki corridor, and bordered on the south by the Atlantic Ocean. The accomodation at Lakowe Lakes consists of The Lodge on 18, apartments and cottages. Upon completion, the entire resort will include 63 units comprising studio, onebedroom and two-bedroom villas and a specialty restaurant.

Ready to book your four-ball?

SCAN TO BOOK LAKOWE LAKES GOLF & COUNTRY ESTATE

THE RELAUNCH OF A LEGEND

In a celebration of heritage, landmark Cape Town property The Lenox is set to be restored as a boutique hotel with a permanent artist residency

BY WANITA NICOL

Located in the inner-city suburb of Gardens, the building currently occupied by The Lenox has been part of Cape Town’s architectural landscape since 1897. “Its rich history makes it part of the soul of Cape Town – I have yet to meet a Capetonian who does not know about The Lenox,” says Eddie Horn, Group Facility & Property Manager at the Mobilitas group, which is part of the partnership leading the restoration, as well as the artist residency through its division Memorist.

Over more than a century, the property has had many personas. In its heyday it’s said to have been a grand guesthouse, counted among Cape Town’s finest hotels. More recently, it’s been a homely backpackers, tucked away in a peaceful, leafy neighbourhood, but conveniently within walking distance of the city’s trendiest nightspots. Now, the historic property is poised to embark on its most exciting era yet.

Art In Residence

The Mobilitas group is restoring The Lenox into a luxury 47-room boutique hotel, which will be managed and operated by Newmark Hotels & Reserves. Scheduled to open in 2026, the hotel will have an art focus, with one entire floor customised to host a permanent

artist residency. This is being created by Memorist, a division of the Mobilitas group, which is dedicated to the conservation of heritage, in partnership with the French embassy and the French Institute of South Africa.

Divided into three modular studio spaces, each of which can be tailored to accommodate the individual needs of three artists simultaneously, the dedicated floor will accommodate up to nine artists annually from South Africa, the broader African continent and France.

Hotel guests will be able to mingle with the resident artists and view their work displayed in a dedicated exhibition space.

Reclaiming Former Glory

In addition to the art focus, the refurbished property will be a

“I BELIEVE THE LENOX WILL BE ONE OF THE MOST SOUGHT-AFTER AND UNIQUE BOUTIQUE HOTELS IN CAPE TOWN.”

celebration of the area’s heritage, featuring ample gardens and green spaces, cobbled walkways, and views of Table Mountain that are sure to become iconic photographs.

While the renovations will be extensive, the goal is to enhance rather than replace. Modern architectural elements will work in harmony with existing heritage components and there will be minimal alterations made to the building’s façade.

Newmark specialises in identifying and enhancing the unique traits that

make a property special. That respect for a property’s history and sensitivity to its character is what makes the group perfect for guiding a historic landmark like The Lenox into its new modern era.

“I believe The Lenox will be one of the most sought-after and unique boutique hotels in Cape Town – if not South Africa – once it’s completed,” says Horn. “We have the correct team in place to make a success of this, with Newmark guiding us through the process from initial concept design to the managing of the hotel once completed.”

Having fallen into disrepair in recent years, The Lenox has been crying out for conscious refurbishment. Now the once stately property will finally have its dignity restored.

The refurbishment will focus on enhancing the building’s heritage components, with minimal changes made to the façade.

THE DRINKS OF Summer

Everything you should be sipping in the Mother City

BY ANDREW THOMPSON

It’s

been said that you can’t make a cocktail without a little bit of chaos, which also often rings true for Cape Town’s long, lively summer evenings.

As visitors flock to the Mother City for its bustling urbanmeets-ocean vibes, bars fill up fast, and the clink of ice in steel cocktail shakers sets the tempo for the night ahead. If you’re looking to ring in the summer at Cape Town’s top bars, do it with one of these beaded signature cocktails in hand.

French 75 HARVEY’S BAR, THE WINCHESTER HOTEL

The Winchester Hotel has long been the go-to along the Atlantic Seaboard for a refreshing gin and tonic. Harvey’s Bar offers a stellar range of local and imported gins for a classic mix, but order the bar’s signature French 75, with Hendrick’s gin, Boschendal Brut, pineapple, elderflower and lemon, for a uniquely modern twist on the old favourite.

Pineapple and Ginger Martini

GRANITE BAR, THE ONYX HOTEL

Granite Bar at The Onyx Hotel offers the ultimate urban sophistication, as does its signature drink. Order the Pineapple and Ginger Martini to toast the passing parade below and the towering mountains peering behind downtown Cape Town.

Whisky Sour STUDIO ROOFTOP BAR, ROCKEFELLER HOTEL & RESIDENCES

Toast the blinking lights of downtown Cape Town with STUDIO at the Rockefeller Hotel & Residences’ signature Whisky Sour. It’s a balanced citrus blend anchored by Jim Beam and it perfectly matches the rooftop bar’s unmistakable high-rise vibe.

Porn Star Martini GINJA, VICTORIA & ALFRED HOTEL

No cocktail says slick sophistication, with a mischievous twist, quite like a Porn Star Martini. So it’s no surprise that this is the signature drink to savour at the Victoria & Alfred Hotel’s celebrated GINJA. The vodka cocktail with a passion fruit and lime kick provides the ideal mouth-puckering jolt to accompany the passing people and ships on a warm summer’s evening.

Right: Harvey’s Bar at The Winchester Hotel; Granite Bar at The Onyx Hotel.

GEMS OF JOZI

Its central location of Sandton makes The Catalyst Hotel an ideal base to explore the cultural diversity and variety of activities on offer in Johannesburg

BY NORMA YOUNG

If you’ve spent any time traversing the City of Gold, you’ll appreciate the importance of being centrally located, whether it’s for work or exploring this African gem. Situated less than a kilometre from the Gautrain, The Catalyst is right in the heart of Johannesburg’s business and leisure district. But proximity is not the only perk of this hotel – its lavishly appointed apartment-type rooms will let you rest in style. You’ll also find top-class, in-room amenities and luxurious bathroom finishes, so you can relax and recharge before a busy day exploring. From your Sandton base, here’s our list of must-do (but under-the-radar) activities while in Jozi.

WORK UP A SWEAT AT WESTCLIFF STAIRS

In addition to a heart-rate increasing climb, the flights of stone steps in Westcliff offer a slice of history. They were built in 1922 by former miners who constructed them using rock from the surrounding area. Heritage properties marked by blue plaques can be found along the ascent, as well as homes designed by famous architect Herbert Baker. At the top of the stairs, a panoramic view of the suburbs below spans all the way to Northcliff Hill.

SCAN TO BOOK THE CATALYST HOTEL BOOK NOW

TAKE A DAY TRIP TO NIROX SCULPTURE PARK

It’s just under 40km from The Catalyst in Sandton to the sculpture park in the Cradle of Humankind, making it an ideal location to get out of the city and into nature. Set on 30ha, it’s a destination in which cultivated lawns host mesmerising outdoor art. Whether you come to sprawl on the grass, wander along the waterways or dine at the indoor/outdoor restaurant, the park offers an inspiring escape. More than 50 longterm installations representing artists from around the world reside on the grounds, while works such as Fire TotemForever Burning by Jonathan Freemantle and In Search of a Lost Home by Sergiy Petlyuk are the new 2024 additions. niroxarts.com

TAKE A FLIGHT OF FANCY AT MONTECASINO BIRD GARDENS

It’s a short distance between The Catalyst in Sandton and Fourways, where Montecasino is located, but being in this park might feel like an altogether faraway land. A variety of birds, mammals, reptiles and unusual animals call the park home. Visitors will see three of the six flamingo species in the world, a red ruffed lemur and alligator snapping turtles! montecasino.co.za

GET A TASTE OF TURKEY AT THE NIZAMIYE BAZAAR

A vibrant marketplace on the grounds of the Nizamiye Mosque complex, one of the biggest mosques in the Southern Hemisphere, the bazaar offers Turkish-inspired cultural, religious and culinary goods. Shopping or dining options at the bazaar include Istanbul Bakery, Ottoman Palace Turkish Restaurant, a bookshop and a charity shop. nizamiyecomplex.co.za

BROWSE OR BUY AT KEYES ART MILE

With Rosebank often considered as the art and design district of Jozi, the Keyes Art Mile makes a significant contribution to this perception. It’s host to the Everard Read Gallery – one of the continent’s oldest commercial art spaces, and CIRCA Gallery, which is an architectural landmark and host to innovative modes of art, such as video installations and large-scale sculptures. Alongside TMRW (The Mixed Reality Workshop) Gallery, which is a space for tech-driven play and exploration, the strip also offers artistic retail therapy, such as the decor store True Design. keyesartmile.co.za

MARVEL AT LIBERATION HISTORY AT LILIESLEAF FARM

Once a safe house for ANC activists, the grounds have been transformed into a museum that is both sobering and inspiring. Historical artefacts, including one of the few remaining signed copies of the Freedom Charter and arrest warrants relating to the Rivonia Trial, can be viewed. There’s also Cedric’s Cafe on site, which references the codename for the farm when it was used as an underground venue for liberation activities. Here, guests can enjoy light meals and refreshments while appreciating a historically significant site. liliesleaf.co.za

STROLL AND SAVOUR AT THE WILDS

Proudly one of the greenest cities in the world, Johannesburg has more than 10 million trees and multiple nature reserves, bird sanctuaries and botanical gardens. An environmental treasure is The Wilds Nature Reserve, which features koppies, waterfalls and well-laid-out foot trails. Visitors not only get to enjoy nature, there’s also sculpted steel animals scattered throughout its 16 hectares. Artist James Delaney has made creatures, such as owls, bush babies, monkeys and buck, that can be admired while walking through the park. jhbcityparksandzoo.com

GO FOR GOLD AT GOLD REEF CITY

One of the major benefits of choosing The Catalyst for accommodation in Johannesburg is the ease of access from Sandton to the rest of Gauteng. It’s a drive of mere minutes from the hotel to the M1 South that heads to Gold Reef City Theme Park. Located on an old gold mine, the area offers water rides, roller-coasters and the ‘Jozi’s Story of Gold’ heritage tour. Visitors descend 75 meters underground to learn about South Africa’s gold-mining history, pan for their own gold, and a watch goldpouring demonstration. goldreefcity.co.za

SEE JOBURG IN A NEW LIGHT AT THE LEONARDO

Whether you’re there for a light lunch or sundowners, Alto 234 at The Leonardo in Sandton boasts incredible views of the city. Billed as the highest urban bar in Africa, the rooftop location offers 360-degree views that stretch into the horizon. Alongside the panoramic sights from a building that stands at a height of 234 metres, guests can enjoy tapas and signature cocktails. alto234.co.za

TRAVEL THROUGH TIME AT CONSTITUTION HILL

In 2024, UNESCO named Constitution Hill as one of the ‘Human Rights, Liberation and Reconciliation: Nelson Mandela Legacy Sites’. This accolade was in recognition of the Old Fort prison, in which Nelson Mandela and numerous other liberation leaders were incarcerated, but it’s a boon for the precinct which is now also the seat of the Constitutional Court of South Africa. Constitution Hill offers a range of guided tours, such as a onehour Highlights Tour and a Time Travel option, in which guides offer a sense of what the place was like as an operational prison. There’s also a Constitutional Court tour, during which a court expert shares the history and symbolism of the building. constitutionhill.org.za

Nirox Sculpture Park.

The Leonardo.

CAPE TOWN

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE

10 Secret (okay, lesser-known!) Cape Peninsula experiences to try this summer

BY ANDREW THOMPSON

Strange as it may sound, Cape Town is sometimes a victim of its own success – especially during summer when wide-eyed visitors line up to tick off attractions long-held as the city’s must-visits. Of course, we’d never suggest avoiding any of the heavy-hitting highlights, but these lesser-known experiences will show you another side to the Mother City.

TOUR THE PENINSULA IN STYLE

There’s really only one way to tour the Cape Peninsula: with a vintage engine growling under the hood and the wind in your hair. Depending on your vehicular persuasion, you can hop into a classic 1960s open-top Cobra or a decommissioned military sidecar. The classic Cobra allows maximum freedom to explore the city’s outer limits, and there’s no rush quite like whipping around the famous Chapman’s Peak Drive centimetres from the ground on a guided sidecar tour. capecobrahire.com; sidecars.co.za

2

TAKE A DIP AT MAIDEN’S COVE

Maiden’s Cove, wedged between Camps Bay and Clifton, is perhaps the city’s most accessible and scenic tidal pool and an ideal spot to let Cape Town’s chilly waters take your breath. You’ll find two secluded pools fed by the icy Atlantic, and panoramic views of the famous Twelve Apostles mountain range. The brave head there for sunrise dips, and its barbecue facilities make it a popular midday haunt. But we say get there an hour before sunset to catch the last rays – and perhaps one of the best sunset views in Cape Town.

3 LEARN TO SURF

Cape Town may famously be home to some thunderous breaks, but the more sedate and predictable Muizenberg is a novice surfer’s dream. There, the almost metronomic waves roll in across the expansive False Bay. These, together with a slew of passionate locals, decades-old surf schools like Gary’s, and rental shops, make this the perfect location to spend a day learning to hang ten. Or, at the very least, feel the rush of standing up for the first time. garysurf.com

TAKE A SUNSET CRUISE

There are few better ways to appreciate the beauty of the Cape Peninsula than from afar – preferably, from the bow of a lavish yacht, sometime around sunset, with something cold and bubbly to hand. Book The Mirage catamaran for either a daily charter to Clifton Beach or a sunset cruise around Table Bay – the boat sails from the V&A Waterfront. For a more exclusive cruise, you can book a private charter which includes a full-service bar, gourmet catering and added amenities, such as an inflatable pool, slide and paddle boards – available with a minimum booking time of four hours. If you’re staying at the Victoria & Alfred Hotel, grab a quick coffee at Native Coffee Roasters – it’s a short walk down the pier. miragecatamaran.com

5 HOP AROUND THE CITY

Beer is a good tipple to choose in Cape Town if you enjoy exploring a city through its local lagers. Craft breweries have sprung up in neighbourhoods across the city, with each offering unique brews and atmospheres. Woodstock is the epicentre – visit Woodstock Brewery, the Devil’s Peak Taproom, or Shackleton Brewing Company for stellar local beers and vibes to match. Or head further south to Noordhoek, where the Aegir Project Brewery crafts some of the city’s best beers in a thoroughly laid-back location.

6 CLIMB DEVIL’S PEAK

Glance up at Lion’s Head on a warm summer afternoon or evening and you’ll have no doubt about Cape Town’s most popular hiking route. But if you’re looking for relative solitude without sacrificing views or proximity to the city, point your hiking shoes toward the Devil’s Peak trailhead. The roughly 7km walk to the summit and back is no breeze and best done with a guide if you’re unsure – but the 360-degree views from the summit, usually shared between only a handful of hikers, make it all well worth the effort.

TROT ON AN EMPTY BEACH

If you’ve dreamt of galloping down a vast, unpopulated white-sand beach as the ocean licks at your horse’s hooves, or simply heading out for a trot in the shallows, Cape Town’s deep south is for you. In the quiet, horse-loving suburb of Noordhoek, Horse Riding Cape Town stables sea-loving horses ready to escort you out along the unspoilt Noordhoek beach, and sometimes even the shallows, for a memorable equestrian excursion. horseridingcapetown.com

8 EMBRACE RETAIL THERAPY IN KALK BAY

Much of Kalk Bay’s charm lies in its ocean-fronting activities – but if you’re on the hunt for a bargain, a unique keepsake, or just a walk down memory lane, its mountainside stores can soak up an afternoon. Although famous for its antiques, the suburb’s boho shops and several bookstores also contain treasures. Start on either end of Main Road and lose yourself in little lanes leading towards the mountains.

9 MAKE YOUR OWN CURRY IN THE BO-KAAP

10

EAT FROM THE SEA

Need to get around town to make your next adventure? We recommend Marvel Tours, who’ll get you to the airport, the beach or your favourite excursion around the city. Contact: marvel@newmarkhotels.com, 071 434 3944 7

Immerse yourself in the Bo-Kaap’s history and culture by embarking on a cooking tour with local personality Zainie Misbach. Pick your spices at the market, learn how to mix them for various Cape Malay favourites, and cook local delicacies in Zainie’s kitchen. As the hunger strikes, you’ll tuck into your homemade dishes alongside your host and fellow guests. bokaapcookingtour.co.za

Veld & Sea founder Roushanna Gray sees the world as an edible landscape, and for over a decade, Gray has been exploring unusual and diverse flavours found in the mountains, oceans, and forests surrounding the Cape. Now, Veld & Sea invites visitors to walk the edible terrain and participate in interactive experiences, including wild food foraging workshops and interactive pop-up dinners. veldandsea.com

We’ll get you there

SOAK IT UP

A wood-fired hot tub is the vacation essential you didn’t know you needed

BY WANITA NICOL

It’s a crisp evening, just after dusk. The sun has dipped below the horizon and the temperature with it. The sky is cloudless. And with minimal light pollution from your lodge and the sickle moon rising above it, the stars are already so bright it’s like some celestial being spilt a bottle of glitter across the sky. It’s the kind of night where it feels almost disrespectful to be indoors, hiding from the chill. And it’s nights like these that a private wood-fired hot tub is the most blissful place to be.

OFF-THE-GRID DESIGN

Called a KolKol after the place in the Western Cape’s Overberg where it was invented, the woodfired hot tub is the ultimate slowliving way to relax and de-stress.

A triumph of rustic simplicity, it’s a bowl-shaped tub with a chimney attached and a box to house burning wood. As the wood burns, the water in the tub slowly heats up (it can take a few hours – so be sure to start early). There’s no electricity required – making the tub ideal for off-the-grid locations – and that means no disturbance from whirring motors or pumps.

As the water temperature reaches toasty perfection, you’ll see steam rising from the surface, beckoning you in.

WALLOW AND UNWIND

This is not a plunge pool for kids to play splashy games or a bubbly Jacuzzi for raucous groups of friends to pile into.

The wood-fired hot tub is as sophisticated as it is rustic and

it comes into its own in secluded locations. Take BABOHI lodge at Qwabi Private Game Reserve in the Waterberg – here, each luxury suite features its own private hot tub. From each magical tub you can gaze upon the lush, empty, undulating hills and the wide expanse of open sky stretching into the distance. At Mount Camdeboo Private Game Reserve, private hot tubs are included at the property’s chic eco-friendly Pods. Set in the otherworldly landscape of the Karoo, these tubs let you soak in the views of this isolated part of the world. As the sun fades away, the stars appear in their multitudes and you’ll soon lose track of time as you try to count them.

The most romantic way to enjoy your tub is under the stars with a glass of Cap Classique and someone special. But they’re equally glorious solo with an absorbing book to read. Either way, you’ll feel any lingering stress melt away into the warm water.

A hot tub at Mount Camdeboo Private Game Reserve’s eco-friendly Pods.

Drop Earring

For centuries, mariners and explorers of the southern hemisphere have looked to the Southern Cross for guidance and safety. The symbolic interpretation of this notion is celebrated with Shimansky’s sculptural Southern Cross collection. Handcrafted to include both diamonds and rare tanzanite, these earrings encapsulate celestial elegance in 14k gold. R23 400 shimansky.co.za @shimansky.sa

Red Penguin Cap

Stylish headgear is required at all times. AAFRICAA in collaboration with Cape Town-based digital artist Xee Summer has created bold, bright works filled with colour. This Cape Town Holiday range is a joyful collection that’s sure to remind you of your blissful time spent in CT. R325, AAFRICAA Brand, aafricaastore.com, @aafricaastore

A SUMMER OF STYLE

Cool kit for the long, hot days

Palm Green Shirt & Palazzo Pants

A stylish and elegant ensemble, the Palm Green shirt and palazzo pants combo is inspired by the vibrant colours and shapes of North African design, specifically Moroccan tiles, and features a stunning geometric tile print. Made from 100% viscose for all-day super comfort. R2 495 (shirt), R3 495 (pants), Mille Collines at aafricaastore.com, @aafricaastore

GRANADILLA

The Clifton in In Bloom One-Piece

This classic suit has a wide V-neckline, adjustable straps and a mid-high-cut leg. It’s a versatile go-to piece, and is proudly local to ensure it thrives in salt or chlorine water. Next decision: which beach?

R1 099 granadillaswim.com @granadilla.swim

GRANADILLA Lollies Swim Shorts

These are the original must-have abovethe-knee swim shorts. They have an elasticated waistband, a drawstring, side pockets and a back-jet pocket. They’re made from 100% quick-dry peach-skin microfibre and have built-in mesh briefs for comfort. Now you’re a local. R849 granadillaswim.com @granadilla.swim

MILLE COLLINES

Wide-Brim Sun Hat

POMELLATO

Whether enjoying a wine farm or game farm, don’t forget your hat! This one was made to properly protect you from the African sun and to travel with you wherever you go. It’s SPF 50+ certified, squishable, and packable. Believe us, you’ll need it. R895, AAFRICAA Brand, aafricaastore.com, @aafricaastore

Field Chair x Ardmore

Don’t venture anywhere without adequate seating. Historical research shows that the chair was part of the kit that was issued to senior British officers stationed in the field. This stylish replica is easy to set up and the backrest doubles as a bag when packed up. How sensible. The Ardmore fabric elegantly complements the warm oak frame. Tally-ho! R6 550, melvillandmoon.com, @melvillandmoon

Nudo Classic Necklace with Pendant

This exquisite necklace is part of the Nudo collection, known for its bold and contemporary designs. A truly luxurious piece of jewellery, it features a sky-blue topaz centre stone, surrounded by 10 brilliant-cut white diamonds, and is finished with an 18k white rhodium-plated white gold chain. A perfect accessory for any occasion, it adds a touch of elegance and sophistication to any outfit.

ULYSSE NARDIN Freak X Watch

The conquest of the unknown requires a fearless mind. The Freak is the first watch ever created where the movement rotates to tell the time. No dial, no hands, movement is king. The Freak X Ti Blue’s 43mm titanium case makes it light and durable, while its sapphire crystal case back showcases the in-house UN-230 selfwinding movement.

R76 500 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za @bhh_boutique

R537 500 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za @bhh_boutique

Wax Print Traveller Backpack

Need a stylish carry-all? Try this wax print bag inspired by the beauty of the African soil, handcrafted by talented artisans in a Cape Town studio that focuses on colour with a unique attention to detail. R1 995, AAFRICAA Brand, aafricaastore.com, @aafricaastore

Tracksmith x Mami Wata Shirt

It’s officially the summer silly season and time for a party shirt. The wild Tracksmith x Mami Wata shirt showcases an eye-catching allover graphic print that embodies the spirit of the collaboration: ‘Run Surf Run’. R1 295 aafricaastore.com @aafricaastore

AFRICAN JACQUARD

Safari Towel

Bring the true beauty of southern Africa into your home with a stunning safari bath or beach towel, meticulously crafted using unique Jacquard weaving methods. Perfect for the roaming traveller and dreamer at heart, African Jacquard’s Safari Collection is where luxury meets adventure. Woven with 100% cotton. R1 070 africanjacquard.com @africanjacquard

MELVILL & MOON

COASTAL

Michael de Oliveria with an albacore tuna.

Opposite page: Johannes Ndakongele, Velisa Dumbela and the rest of the ICV Tuna team docking at Hout Bay.

Newmark Hotels & Reserves Group Head Chef

Chris Erasmus is committed to supporting local, uplifting small businesses, and giving guests the most authentic dining experience. Meet his trusted suppliers

BY WANITA NICOL PHOTOGRAPHS BY CLAIRE GUNN

Before he was one of South Africa’s biggest names in food and hospitality, now-renowned chef Chris Erasmus was a boy growing up on his family’s smallholding in the semi-arid Karoo.

It’s an area known for vast expanses, dotted with windmills and dusty sheep. There are no national highways cutting through this part of South Africa. Smaller, somewhat quieter stretches of road connect quaint towns, where you’ll always find a good farmstall pie and handlabelled jars of jams and pickles produced slowly in a low-tech home kitchen with ingredients harvested from the garden.

“My mother’s got a small business where she makes preserves and jams and things,” says Chris. “She’s always had it. She’s a proper cook. So, I grew up cooking out of our own vegetable gardens; preserving, pickling, fermenting. And my dad had a little butchery set up in his garage. We used to go hunting a lot and make our own sausages, biltong and droëwors. So, I grew up in a food family where everything was made from scratch. For me, it’s very important to know the origin of your food. It’s a respect thing. If people know exactly where it comes from and were part of the process, they don’t waste.”

This philosophy has been a hallmark of Chris’ cuisine throughout his career as a chef, both internationally and here in South Africa. Now, he’s brought that same philosophy to Newmark. “I used to consult to Newmark before I became Group Head Chef,” he says. “I would take the kitchen staff foraging, teach them gardening and connect them with the ingredients.”

Now, as Group Head Chef, he’s gone all-in. “We’re now using family-owned businesses as our suppliers throughout the group. Neil, our CEO, likes to say, ‘we like to know that we’re paying school fees’. And that’s exactly it – yes, we’re using local suppliers, but they’re also family-owned businesses, so we’re paying for school shoes, rates, mortgages… Instead of the money going to an international bank account. That’s very important to me – to truly

support not just local, but small, family-owned businesses.”

Chris’ commitment to supporting small businesses extends to every aspect of the group’s culinary offering. Even the chefs’ uniforms are locally made. And he’s started bringing locally made crockery into the dining rooms.

It’s a much more onerous way to operate – you have to deal with multiple small suppliers as opposed to two or three big ones. Small business owners don’t have the operational mechanisms in place that a large, established supplier would have, so there’s often mentorship required, and the experience starts to feel more go-to-the-market than click-and-collect. For Chris, who spent his whole childhood living in small towns, it’s the most authentic way to do business. And for guests, it’s a wholesome, local experience of the place they’re visiting.

When you stay at a hotel that’s part of a broader group, you do so expecting there to be a degree of “massed-producedness” about the experience. Newmark makes a point of removing this element from its properties. The standard of service may be consistently high, but each one has its own unique DNA. It’s the soul of a local guesthouse coupled with the upmarket efficiency of a high-end hotel.

“We don’t have a blueprint of how each property has to be run,” says Chris. “We treat each one as its own fingerprint. We go out and meet local butchers, we go to local markets and meet the vendors and see who could possibly deliver. When you walk into a local business, it’s so beautiful to see the whole family involved. It’s like eating at their home. You just know that you’re getting family recipes that have been passed down and have now come to us.”

Here, we celebrate some of the local food heroes adding their special homely touch to the South African properties.

Chris Erasmus, Group Head Chef for Newmark Hotels & Reserves.

GLASS ACT

Originally from Zimbabwe, Marlvin Gwese, Group Sommelier for Newmark Hotels & Reserves, studied computer programming, but never worked in the field. Instead, he pursued a newfound interest in wine and now ensures Newmark guests have the best wines to pair with their meals and toast the African sunset.

“My passion for wine developed while working in South African restaurants that had strong wine programmes. This was a remarkable shift for me, given that I grew up in a non-drinking family and in a culture that favoured beer,” says Marlvin. “Through curiosity and dedication to learning, I pursued a formal wine education, eventually earning a prestigious WSET Level 3 certification and Cape wine Academy Diploma and completing the First Star Cap Classique course, which enhanced my knowledge of global winemaking, wine laws, wine regions and food pairings.”

Marlvin’s career took off when he joined the hospitality industry, starting at the bottom and rising through the ranks to Head Sommelier and then Group Sommelier. He joined Newmark Hotels & Reserves as Group Sommelier in 2023.

Similarly to Chris’ approach to food, Marlvin matches his choice of wines to the property. “Luxury hotels may focus on premium selections, rare vintages, or even offer curated wine pairings, while mid-range hotels might feature popular or easy-drinking options,” he says. In the restaurants, he’s careful to make sure the wine list works with the food menu.

“There is no copy-and-paste selection.”

Marlvin also uses local wine suppliers across the group as far as possible, noting that carbon footprint is always top of mind.

Ultimately, he has grand plans to open a cellar for Newmark. “My Newmark Group wine vision is to build our own cellar to offer rare wines and exclusive offerings to our guests and create a thread of DNA through our properties.”

THE FRESH PRODUCE MERCHANT

Vernon prides himself on supplying the freshest fruit and vegetables, 90% of which is harvested daily. “Our produce is not fresh out of the fridge,” he quips. To do this, he starts work at 2am and works until noon. “Then I go to sleep for three to four hours.” He’s awake again in the late afternoon/early evening, before tucking in early to prepare for the middle-of-thenight wake-up once more.

It’s an unusual schedule, but it allows Vernon to supply fresh, seasonal produce to top-end clients like Newmark Hotels & Reserves. “Vernon will always source all the weird and wonderful things I need that are not normally available from suppliers,” says Chris, who has been working with Vernon since as far back as 2014. “Vernon started supplying me with locally sourced wild foods and herbs supplied from the local communities. He was acting as the logistics and supply interface for small producers and growers.”

Now, a decade later, the relationship is still going strong and Newmark guests reap the benefits, enjoying the best in fresh produce and unusual flavours.

VERNON GRIMMBACHER

CAPE HONEY BEE

Marlvin Gwese, Group Sommelier for Newmark Hotels & Reserves.

Vernon Grimmbacher is your go-to supplier for any weird and wonderful produce.

“WE REALLY WANT TO MAKE SURE WE PRESERVE THE ART OF CATCHING ALBACORE TUNA BY ENSURING THAT THERE’S NO OVERFISHING.”

THE FISH TRADER

MICHELLE BELLINGER

ICV TUNA

Tuna is one of the world’s most popular fish species and one of the most lucrative. It’s also, unfortunately, one of the most overfished. According to ICV Tuna, around 5.8 million tonnes of tuna is caught annually. Some species of tuna are threatened, and by-catch by large operators is harming other ocean species, too.

ICV Tuna does things differently. Their vessels use sustainable fishing methods and are skippered by fishers who come from generations of fishers before them. They still use traditional bamboo fishing poles and draw on the wisdom and techniques of their forebears, mainly catching albacore, or longfin, tuna. “This is very targeted. You’re on a school of tuna and as you hook it, you’re identifying what you’re pulling up, so you aren’t catching anything else,” says managing director Michelle Bellinger.

2 500

ICV Tuna supports around this many fishers operating off the south and west coasts of South Africa.

Most importantly, they fish with respect for the ocean and its inhabitants, working with the Marine Stewardship Council to protect fish stocks in South Africa’s oceans, while also creating employment.

“We really want to make s ure we preserve the art of catching albacore tuna by ensuring that there’s no overfishing, that fisheries use sustainable fishing methods and that countries stick to their total allowable catches to ensure that stocks have time to recover every year, and that there’ll always be sufficient stocks for future generations,” says Michelle.

By highlighting the sustainable fishing practises used in South Africa on an international platform, ICV and Cape Fish have gained access to more international markets for locally caught tuna, which in turn generates higher returns for the vessels for their efforts at sea.

Abongile Frans offloads the day’s catch from the boat.

“I REALLY HAD A PASSION FOR SMOKING MEAT. I STARTED PRACTISING A BIT AND PEOPLE LOVED MY SMOKEDMEAT

PRODUCTS, SO I THOUGHT, LET ME TAKE THAT TO THE NEXT LEVEL.”

Meat smoker Marvyn Buys.

THE MEAT SMOKER

MARVYN BUYS SMOKED BY BUYS

At 37, Marvyn Buys – an adventurous, conscious carnivore –has turned his passion for fire and smoke into one of his life’s purposes: transforming lives through his culinary creations and contributing to South Africa’s food industry. Established in 2023, Smoked By Buys was born from Marvyn’s love for food and fire, inspired by his childhood on the family farm in Buysdorp, Limpopo, where he learned the art of cooking over fire from his grandfather. “As a culinary enthusiast, I constantly push boundaries to create unique and flavourful smoked-meat creations,” says Marvyn. “Smoked By Buys is not only about food, but also about creating job opportunities while delighting people with our passion for traditional smoked meats and curated selection of sides that complement and enhance the flavours of our smoked creations.”

Smoked By Buys started at a local food market, with Marvyn and his wife, Widaad, selling their signature smoked meats. Their loyal customers soon began flocking to the market just to get their smokedmeat fix. Recognising the growth potential, Widaad applied for the V&A Waterfront’s Makers Landing Kitchen Incubator Programme as a birthday gift for Marvyn. Out of thousands of applicants, they successfully secured a spot. Through the programme, and with the guidance of Allister Esau, Food Lead at V&A Waterfront, Marvyn connected with Newmark Group Head Chef Chris Erasmus. “Chris has been an extraordinary mentor, and we connect through our shared love of fire and our commitment to sourcing and working with meat ethically. This opportunity has allowed us to scale the business into the B2B space while staying true to our values of supporting the local food ecosystem and supporting local farmers who share their commitment to quality and sustainability,” says Marvyn.

The business is also supplying some of Newmark’s hotels. “It’s surreal to know my smoked meats will be served in hotel restaurants,” Marvyn shares excitedly. “Working alongside an industry expert like Chris, who shares my passion, has been a remarkable experience. It’s pushed us to elevate our products to meet top-tier standards.”

As Marvyn reflects on the journey, he expresses his ambition for the future: “Our mission is to make Smoked By Buys South Africa’s ultimate destination for smoked meats, offering a culinary experience that goes beyond tradition. We aim to deliver innovation and creativity in every dish.”

As Smoked By Buys continues to grow, Marvyn’s passion expands with it as the brand now reaches beyond markets in and around Cape Town to include events, festivals, and private catering.

Farm To Table

John Knipe is owner of the meat company Kalahari Group, which supplies Newmark and Smoked By Buys

“In the realm of cattle, our story is one of resilience and dedication amidst the challenges of the Kalahari landscape,” says John. Coming from a farming background, John saw an opportunity to supply the consumer directly from the farm. “We deliver top-tier meat products to some of the finest restaurants, boutique butcheries, and hotels. Our products include superiorly sourced Black Angus, Wagyu and other fresh Kalahari meat products. To complete your basket, we also supply lamb, pork and chicken products.”

John and his team keep their operation simple, focusing on delivering top-quality meats that have been butchered and processed at the source. It’s important to him that meat should come from a farm and not a factory. “When you drive into Kalahari, you don’t just see a concrete building, you see gardens, horses, cattle and happy faces. Our office is the Kalahari, our attire casual, our people our greatest asset, and our contract a handshake.”

His goal is not to have a massive operation, but rather one that prioritises quality, and to have a sustainable company that will leave a legacy for generations to come. “Our dream is not to be the biggest but to continue being the best – best service and best quality, regardless of obstacles.

“Looking back, I would say that my company was built on the right foundation. I had a passion, which I carried over to my staff, and they have a passion. We care where the brand is going.”

THE POTTER

MERVYN GERS

MERVYN GERS CERAMICS

Mervyn has become something of a local legend in Cape Town foodie circles. His handmade ceramics, with their signature colour palette and perfectly imperfect idiosyncrasies, are instantly recognisable and sought after by restaurateurs and stylish homeowners alike. Not bad going for a self-taught potter, who once worked at a radio station.

Prior to his ceramics business, Mervyn was best known as the guy who started KFM, the Cape’s favourite music radio station, but he had always felt drawn to art – in particular, clay.

He had taken a class here and there, but never had time to explore his interest. After selling his shares in the radio station, Mervyn took a sabbatical. It was the perfect time to indulge his artistic not-quite hobby. Instead, he started flipping houses. “Every time I renovated a home, I would build a studio. And then when the home was finished, I’d get scared, sell the home and buy the next one.”

But dreams will only be suppressed for so long. Mervyn bought a studio space – which he still occupies today –

200 Mervyn Gers Ceramics has more than 200 shapes and 60 different colours, all created themselves, by hand.

invested in kilns and set about teaching himself to work with clay. The hobby became a business, the business became a beloved brand, and Mervyn had found his new career.

When Mervyn speaks about clay, it’s with a mixture of reverence and excitement. Over 13 years, he’s amassed vast knowledge and experience of both the science and art of the medium. The business makes its own clay and glazes nowadays and each item is made by hand, in the Japanese style of wabisabi – perfect imperfection. “Clay has memory. So, if you work with clay by hand and you work in one direction and then the other direction and you let it dry, it takes on its own shape. So, every product looks slightly different and that’s what I like. There’s history behind it, there’s a story.”

Mervyn first met Newmark Hotels & Residences Group Head Chef Chris Erasmus when Chris was in the restaurant business. Now, Mervyn brings his distinctive creations to the table at various Newmark properties in Cape Town so that guests are not just eating off a plate, but an artwork, created by a master craftsman and his team (now close to 50 people).

Mervyn Gers and some of his team: (from left to right)

Neleka, Anne, Sylvia (front), Patrick (back), Lindeka, Nomzamo and Lovemore.

“CLAY HAS MEMORY. THERE’S HISTORY BEHIND IT, THERE’S A STORY.”

OUT OF THIS WORLD

New fine-dining restaurant Terrarium, by chef Chris Erasmus, opens at the Queen Victoria Hotel at the V&A Waterfront

Acclaimed Newmark Group Head Chef Chris Erasmus has brought fresh, sophisticated flavours with a creative spin and a focus on sustainability to the V&A Waterfront with the opening of a fine-dining restaurant, Terrarium, at the five-star Queen Victoria Hotel.

Terrarium has redefined the space that was previously the beloved Dash restaurant, and is open for both hotel guests and the public to enjoy the completely rejuvenated eatery.

Chef Chris has infused creativity and ingenuity into the Terrarium menu for a dining experience unlike any other in the Waterfront precinct or the city, at a price point that offers value for money.

Each dish combines thoughtfully selected ingredients and exciting flavour combinations, delighting the senses and offering diners a truly memorable meal. The restaurant is led by Chris as Chef Patron, together with Terrarium’s newly appointed Head Chef, Anlou Erasmus.

One of the highlights of the dinner service is the option of an eight-course Fauna or Flora menu, featuring either hyper-local seafood and meat dishes or plant-based dishes, respectively. For a lighter option, the restaurant also serves a small plates à la carte menu in the bar area in the evenings, and as the standard menu during lunch service.

Well-known for his work in spearheading one of South Africa’s top 10 restaurants, Franschhoek-based Foliage, Chris says: “My passion for celebrating organic food, from farm and forest to plate, runs deep. True to its namesake, Terrarium is a space that is built around the concept of regeneration and the commitment to remain close to nature. I am thrilled at the opportunity to introduce a contemporary spin on sustainable dining in this urban landscape.”

In line with its ethos, Terrarium’s menus incorporate seasonal ingredients and unusual cuts of meat, lowering the demand on prime cuts without compromising on flavour. The team is also focused on supporting the local community, helping them to grow vegetables and herbs, using fresh and forest-foraged ingredients, and local produce from small, family-owned fisheries, butcheries, smokers and beekeepers. In line with this, the restaurant’s wine list is personally curated by Newmark’s Group Sommelier, Marlvin Gwese, and it supports small, bespoke winemakers and producers of natural wines.

There is also great emphasis on art and music at Terrarium. Working together with an art curator, Chris and his team aim to showcase up-and-coming South African artists’ work, from wood carvings to paintings made with natural African clay pigments. They will also incorporate a live-music programme, including folk and blues performances, as well as postmodern jukebox-style singers accompanied by the hotel’s grand piano.

From farm to plate – Chef Patron Chris Erasmus and Terrarium’s newly appointed Head Chef, Anlou Erasmus, head out regularly to forage and visit local gardens to harvest only the freshest local, seasonal ingredients for the bold, big flavours of the Flora and Fauna eightcourse menus.

A stone’s throw from the water, GINJA restaurant offers a contemporary menu celebrating local ingredients.

Opposite Page: Built in 1894, the Time Ball Tower in the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront is set on a hillside above the harbour.

The Hidden Waterfront

Beyond the bustle of the pier and the designer shopping, discover a quieter, historic precinct. Take a walk with us

BY RICHARD HOLMES

PHOTOGRAPHS BY CLAIRE GUNN

It’s no surprise that just about every traveller to Cape Town makes a point of spending time in the bustling Victoria & Alfred Waterfront – ‘The V&A’, as locals know it. Stroll around this dynamic harbour precinct and you’ll soon fall in love with the V&A’s cosmopolitan waterside charm. From quayside restaurants to glamorous shopping malls, family-friendly attractions to deep-sea adventures, it’s a magnet for travellers to the city and a remarkable transformation since the first shops and restaurants opened on the Pierhead in 1990.

Standing proudly on the quayside in those early days was the Victoria & Alfred Hotel, a century-old warehouse transformed into a luxury seaside address. It was one of the first hotels on the Waterfront and remains a fine base for exploring, with 94 contemporary rooms conveniently located within easy reach of the precinct’s top attractions. On the doorstep, you’ll find catamaran cruises departing for sunset sailing in Table Bay – or around to the glamorous sands of Clifton and Camps Bay. Wander further down the pier and you’ll arrive at the brightyellow Watershed, which offers a snapshot of Cape creativity,

with a collection of artisans showcasing South African-designed gifts, clothes, jewellery, homeware and crafts. The V&A is a hotspot for retail therapy, whether you’re looking for global brands or local design. Certainly don’t miss AAFRICAA, in the revamped mall alongside the Victoria & Alfred Hotel, where you’ll find an impressive collection of high-end couture and homeware from some of Africa’s leading designers.

While shopping draws many travellers to the V&A, it’s a destination that rewards exploring, and across the precinct there are hidden corners easily overlooked. One of my favourites is the Jetty 1 Museum.

If you don’t have time for the half-day ferry visit to Robben Island, departing from the Clock Tower Precinct, Jetty 1 is the best way to delve into the infamous island prison offshore from the city. This was once the departure point for political prisoners during Apartheid, and it’s from here that Nelson Mandela would have left Cape Town for the island, only returning after 18 long years behind bars there. Today, the museum is home to a compact display of the island’s outsized role in South African history, and well worth seeking out.

The Victoria & Alfred Hotel, a centuryold warehouse transformed into luxury accommodation.

Clockwise, from top left: Whatever the season, the V&A is always buzzing with visitors; there is shopping aplenty at the Watershed; enjoy a catamaran tour from the harbour; kids will love a tour on the colourful train.

For history of a different sort, wander up the stairs to the Time Ball Tower set on a hillside above the harbour. Built in 1894, the daily dropping of the time ball allowed ships’ navigators to synchronise their chronometers for accurate navigation at sea. While the square riggers and clippers have long since set sail, this piece of the Cape’s maritime history still stands.

As does the building next door.

What was originally the Harbour Master’s private residence is today the acclaimed Dock House Boutique Hotel, offering five elegant rooms and one suite. From the ground-floor restaurant, step out onto a remarkable secret garden, where indigenous plantings and lush lawns surround a sparkling swimming pool that is surely one of the best-kept secrets in the V&A Waterfront! Happily, guests at all Newmark hotels in the V&A Waterfront enjoy access to this idyllic bolt-hole set beneath waving palms. It’s the perfect place to unwind, and is set just steps from the Sanctuary Spa, which offers a range of facial and body treatments and restorative sauna facilities. Alongside the Sanctuary Spa is an exclusive gym with possibly the best views for a workout!

Just a short stroll away, you’ll walk into the charming Queen Victoria Hotel & Manor House, a boutique destination ideal for small groups and multi-generational travellers looking for luxury and exclusivity, while enjoying the service and hospitality of a larger establishment. With four luxurious suites – each with a private patio or Juliet balcony – it’s also a popular choice for corporate travellers and C-suite executive escapes, offering easy access to the UCT Graduate School of Business and corporate headquarters in the historic Portswood precinct.

This quiet corner of the Waterfront is brimming with history, character and charm, and is increasingly a hub for the city’s arts community. Set right alongside the Dock House Boutique Hotel is Everard Read Cape Town; South Africa’s oldest commercial art gallery – founded in Johannesburg in 1913 – with branches in the Franschhoek Winelands and London. It opened here in September 1996, and has since combined with the adjoining CIRCA gallery to offer four formal gallery spaces and a large outdoor sculpture garden. Art has certainly become a defining feature of the Waterfront, thanks to the 2017 opening of the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary

Art Africa (MOCAA) in the Silo District. Around the corner, stop in at Southern Guild to admire collectible African design.

But if all of that exploring has worked up an appetite, you’re in luck. The V&A is a culinary hotspot, with everything from seaside sushi bars to some of the city’s best fine-dining destinations.

At the Queen Victoria Hotel, the culinary experience has recently been reinvented with the arrival of Terrarium, a brand-new concept created by Newmark’s Group Head Chef Chris Erasmus and Terrarium Head Chef Anlou Erasmus. At Terrarium, you can expect a truly unique dining experience, taking inspiration from the richness of the region’s produce to create an elevated taste of the Cape. Diners can choose between the carefully curated menus themed around ‘Fauna’ or ‘Flora’, alongside an à la carte selection of small plates for enjoying at lunchtime, or at the elegant bar.

Down on the quayside at GINJA, the approach is more relaxed, with a wide-ranging menu that runs from small plates for sharing to wholesome main courses and bistro classics. With so much choice on offer, it’s a hit with families.

Because in between the shopping, art and history, the V&A is enormous fun for all generations. The Two Oceans Aquarium offers towering predator tanks to impress and touch pools to get handson. Take a harbour tour to see the city from the water, or hop aboard the new Waterfront Duck, the first amphibious bus-boat tour in Africa! In summer, you can rent a stand-up paddleboard to explore the quieter canals, or hop off at Battery Park to ride the ramps of the public skate park. Younger kids will love the chance to choose a collection of semi-precious stones at the Scratch Patch, or take teens and tweens to scratch their heads at the Hint Hunt escape rooms. And whatever you do, don’t miss a ride on the Cape Wheel, now located on the V&A’s Breakwater Boulevard to deliver even more memorable sea and city views of the V&A Waterfront; a historic corner of the city brimming with contemporary charm.

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From left: Sculptures by Angus Taylor next to Everard Read; a friendly greeting from the doorman at Dock House Boutique Hotel.

Opposite page, from left: Queen Victoria Hotel; the Dock House Boutique Hotel’s private garden.

The many faces of Île Maurice

Find true relaxation in this beach paradise – no matter what side of the island you choose

BY RICHARD HOLMES

“What there is of Mauritius is beautiful. You have undulating wide expanses of sugarcane – a fine, fresh green and very pleasant to the eye; and everywhere else you have a ragged luxuriance of tropic vegetation of vivid greens… Rugged clusters of crags and peaks, green to their summits; from their bases to the sea a green plain.”

It’s been more than a century since Mark Twain penned those words in his journal, on a visit in 1896, but his evocative description of the island still holds true today.

For while the coastline blossoms with luxury resorts set above shimmering sands and turquoise waters, and the towns of the interior expand to cater for the island’s growing role in global financial services – making it an ideal choice for ‘bleisure’ travel – the multicultural charms of the island remain much as they were when Twain first stepped ashore.

Which makes it even more worthwhile to explore beyond the beach during your stay on Île Maurice. It’s hard though, we know.

At Mystik Lifestyle Boutique Hotel, you’ll be enchanted by endless days of entertainment and sun-soaked revelry, whether you’re relaxing by the pool or on the white sands of Mont Choisy beach. With uninterrupted sunset views, it’s little wonder that #36 Beach Resto restaurant, with its island-inspired fare, and the tree-top ‘Sky Bar’ upstairs are some of the most celebrated venues on the island. Want to shake things up? Their cocktail classes are legendary, and tap into the island’s vanilla-scented rum.

Enjoy your cocktails, as this north-western corner of the island is famous for keeping travellers busy from morning to night. Mystik’s prime position and vibe make it paradise-found for guests looking for that dream island getaway, as well as to explore this lush part of the island. But we’re guessing you’ll want to spend most of your time in the crystal-clear waters, whether it’s lounging on the palm-fringed beach or heading out for an openwater adventure.

On your explorations, meander through the famous Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Garden to admire the giant water lilies (Victoria amazonica), or run away to sea with a fun-filled catamaran cruise exploring the sheltered coral lagoon. If you love golf, you’ll adore Mont Choisy Le Golf. Just minutes from Mystik Lifestyle Boutique Hotel, this Peter Matkovichdesigned layout blends elements of links-style and tropical parkland play with historic features, like a 200-year-old sugar mill chimney framing the 15th hole. Prefer a bit of buzz to birdies? Close by, you’ll find the capital city of Port Louis, as well as Grand Baie, as famous for its nightlife as the colourful markets, and the perfect place to discover Mauritian cultural history on a plate.

The island is the proverbial melting pot of cuisines, brought here through

the centuries by French and British colonists, Malagasy slaves, Indian labourers and Chinese traders. Today it all adds up to a remarkable menu of authentic island cuisine, which you’ll find dished up in and around Port Louis. Don’t leave without a taste of dhal puri: a thin fried bread stuffed with yellow lentils. It’s a popular street snack in Mauritius, sold across the island, from tiny kiosks to mobile motorbike kitchens, and is perhaps the flag bearer of everyday island cooking.

To drink? While fresh coconuts ward away the island’s heat, Mauritian rum is increasingly making waves around the world. Distillerie de Labourdonnais is known for its innovative rums infused with tropical ingredients – think heady scents of vanilla and fragrant lemongrass – while the historic Château de Labourdonnais and New Grove Distillery showcase historic and contemporary sides to the island’s distilleries. One of the top producers, and a fine place to discover the world of island rum, is La Rhumerie de Chamarel in the south-west of the island. Unlike many larger producers, the rum here is distilled from pure fermented sugarcane juice, not molasses, before being aged in tanks or oak casks. Definitely worth a taste during your visit.

And, unlike the more developed northern corners of the island, the wilder south coast of Mauritius still feels delightfully untravelled. Start at the remarkable Chamarel 7 Coloured Earth Geopark for a glimpse into the island’s geological history, before turning your gaze to Le Morne Brabant, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This iconic mountain offers spectacular hikes and panoramic views, but also holds deep historical significance as a past refuge for slaves seeking their freedom. After the hike, cool off with a dip at Le Morne beach; also famous as one of the world’s best spots for kite-surfing. There are schools on the beach that can help get you up and riding.

Then head east along the coast to seek out Gris Gris, where the shoreline offers a wild and rugged charm in contrast to the calmer lagoons of the east coast. Leave time to wander down the forested track leading to the viewpoint of Roche Qui Pleure – the ‘rock that weeps’ – and a little further on you’ll find Cascade Mamzelle, a wonderful waterfall with a natural pool for swimming.

Next, look to the centre of the island. Head inland to explore the Black River Gorges National Park, where hiking trails lead through lush forests to waterfalls and some of the island’s best viewpoints. Meander back through Curepipe,

La Maison D’Été boutique hotel offers guests a luxurious stay, plus its own private beach.

a vibrant town popular with locals for its cooler climate and rich store of colonial architecture. In nearby Moka, you’ll also find Eureka House, a colonial mansion and museum best explored on the excellent guided tours.

If you’d rather stretch your legs, you’re also not far from the mountain peak known locally as Le Pouce, ‘the thumb’. It’s one of the most popular hikes in Mauritius, with a clear path most of the way up to the top of the third-highest peak on the island. The last few hundred metres are steep and unstable, but the panoramic views from the summit make it well worth the effort. From the top, you can just make out the high point of the island – Black River Peak – down south, while the lagoons and beaches of the east coast stretch out seemingly at your feet.

Look carefully and you can just admire Poste Lafayette, where the La Maison D’Été boutique hotel enjoys a secluded location on a quiet cove laced with golden sands.

In contrast to so many Mauritian resorts, La Maison D’Été offers a truly boutique experience. Here, just 16 rooms, all sea-facing, come decorated in a contemporary-chic island aesthetic. Its private beach and intimate setting make it the perfect barefoot luxury destination. It’s an escape from the

bustle, with a relaxed, private atmosphere for guests looking for an authentic island getaway.

For a special treat, book into La Vigie Exclusive, the largest suite, with a remarkable balcony on stilts jutting out over the sea below. The elegant bar and restaurant spaces also deliver wonderful sea views, and if you love your food, be sure to book an immersive market discovery tour and cooking class guided by one of the local chefs. Or, get adventurous: take a boat trip to the tiny Île aux Bernaches, or don a mask to enjoy a snorkelling excursion in the calm waters of the lagoon.

And yet, despite the sense of delicious seclusion, you’re just 35 minutes by car from the bustle of Grand Baie and Port Louis.

A world away, yet in the heart of all that the island has to offer. East or west, wherever you choose to stay, you’ll be bowled over by the unfiltered beauty of Île Maurice. Mark Twain certainly was!

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LA MAISON D’ÉTÉ

AFRICAN ODYSSEY

From the best location in the Waterfront to the vast wilderness of the Waterberg. Join us for an adventure from Cape to QWABI

BY PIPPA DE BRUYN

It’s late September, and I’m seated on the pier overlooking the Alfred Basin, the 19th-century stone walls of what was Table Bay’s first harbour. I’d figured a few nights in the Victoria & Alfred Hotel – the first hotel to open in what almost instantaneously became South Africa’s most popular tourist attraction – was a pretty good start to a nine-night Newmark sojourn exploring the highlights of South Africa. I wasn’t wrong.

Cutting through the blue-green ripple of seawater is the yellow Waterfront Duck, Cape Town’s new amphibious bus, completing its circuit from the Alfred into the Victoria Basin. Behind us, the miniature train trundles past again, windows framing children wide-eyed with delight. Across the harbour, men hammer on the hulls of rusty fishing trawlers, oblivious to the sleek white catamarans built for pleasure docked behind the Bascule Bridge.

From my table, I can see the pillowed windows above the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary African Art, but I’m leaning more towards the frivolous: an afternoon frock shopping in the adjoining Alfred Mall, followed by a stroll through the stalls that throng the Watershed… But just then, the clouds lift, revealing the city’s pièce de résistance – that glorious flat-topped mountain, demanding the human gaze. Game on. I sign for another cocktail, ask for the GINJA menu and lean back into my ringside seat.

What a location this 1904 North Quay warehouse-artfully-turnedluxury-hotel enjoys. Well worth changing your dates, should the V&A reservations team struggle to find available space.

They say there are two kinds of solitary travellers, those who travel alone by default, and those who do so by choice. I fall into both categories, but increasingly the latter. Much as I enjoy travelling with a companion, doing so alone brings specific pleasures. There is something wonderfully liberating about not having to deliberate on what time to get up, when to have breakfast, what to see. Conversations with strangers are easier; experiences more

spontaneous. Disbelievers complain how much they want someone to share these experiences – why can’t that person be oft-neglected, far-more relaxing and mostly wonderful you?

Especially when you’re being mollycoddled by a great hotel team, who appear to care about you with the delight of a kind mother, who hasn’t seen you for some time.

At O.R. Tambo, I decided to rent a car, keen for adventure. Being one of the closest Big Five reserves to an international airport in South Africa, the new QWABI Private Game Reserve represents a remarkable saving in time and money – a mere 2.5-hour drive.

What could go wrong?

“Hi, we have you on Whatsapp, kindly send your live location so we can see where you are.”

Once I hit the rutted dirt beyond Bela-Bela, my patience, the size of a pinhead, had me making several (unnecessary) calls for reassurance, driving a bloody sewing machine into an increasingly remote wilderness. Supported by the calm and kind team at QWABI, I made it without a hitch. I dumped the Renault KWID and clambered onto the open-topped game viewer with relief, ready to explore the 11 000-ha QWABI Private Game Reserve with my guide Damien.

Set within the Waterberg, one of only two UNESCO-declared savannah biospheres in Africa, the scenery alone is a balm. From winding under the dappled shade of mature silver cluster-leaf trees to traversing grasslands – a textured tapestry of gold and pink – there are a range of habitats that in turn support one of the highest diversity of bird species in southern Africa. One of these is the critically endangered ground hornbill – the beauty of its call (inverse to its looks) one of the most moving in the bush orchestra. In an effort to support the resident population, researchers have placed 3D-printed ground hornbill nests above the floodline, one of several conservation projects working in QWABI.

“TRAVEL FAR ENOUGH, YOU MEET YOURSELF.”

“Oh, there’s a cheetah.” Damien is, at times, marvellously laconic. He points out elephant, rhino, lion, and plenty of antelope, including herds of imperious eland, with their dark garters and black knee-pads, and regal sable, but he is also a constant font of fascinating facts, from explaining how a feather from the jewelhued lilac-breasted roller was used in ancient courtship rituals to the ability of a spear grass seed to drill into the soil to QWABI’s game-changing anti-poaching methods, the first to use specialised collars equipped with a GPS tracker, camera, microphone and accelerometer.

Between game drives there are the pools – at BABOHI lodge enjoying an elevated location, its 25 rooms carved into the hillside below, the best of which have sweeping views of the bush. The familyfriendly LETAMO is larger in every sense. Food and wine at both is excellent, as are the well-trained staff – nothing is ever too much trouble; every request met with a smile and delivered promptly. I work and read, eat (too much, why does the food have to be this good?), then rest before the next three to four hours spent trawling the reserve, enjoying the excitement of never knowing what we will encounter next, the ongoing patter flowing from Damien, nuggets about nature that one can, if that way inclined, see as deep life lessons.

I am never sure which drive I prefer most – the freshness of the early morning, the perfume of crushed grass, the relief of animals that survived the night almost palpable, or the late afternoon, golden hour bathing the bush in benign light, the inevitable G&T stop – so I skip none. On the last evening drive stop, a dazzle of zebra in the background, I refuse to think about my imminent return to the city, the demands of family. I half raise my glass. “Travel far enough, you meet yourself,” David Mitchell wrote in Cloud Atlas Where better to do so than right here. Pleased to meet you.

MEET THE ELEPHANT WHISPERER

When you visit QWABI, be sure to ask expert guide Wikus Potgieter to introduce you to the local elephants

Every guide has unique skills, amazing stories and secret spots. It’s their job. But few have such a close relationship with these giants of the bush and such a special story to share.

Wikus Potgieter’s understanding of pachyderms is legendary. Over 25 years as a guide and ranger, he has developed a unique understanding of how elephants communicate using non-vocal cues, body language and slight movements to signal their intentions and even respond to human movement. While most guides can interpret elephant communication to a few basic physical movements, Wikus sees multiple ‘postures’ that, seen together, reflect a much wider language than ever thought possible.

While Wikus only recently joined the team at QWABI, he’s spent the last 25 years as a guide – working 13 years in the Waterberg and 12 in the Lowveld. But it’s the Waterberg that he feels most at home.

So, what does he find so special about QWABI? “It’s one of my favourite areas. Of all the places I’ve worked, I prefer the Waterberg. There’s beauty, even on a quiet drive. You don’t often see the Big Five, but have to drive some distance. But the scenery changes. The varied geology and topography is really what makes it special.”

When it comes to understanding elephants, Wikus is quick to share everything he’s learnt, including how many body postures they have. ”Most guides would say five. But, in fact, there are over 80. They’re visible in groups of four to nine posture clusters, expressions and non-vocal communications. Comparatively, humans have over 38 000 different postures.”

After 19 186 encounters, Wikus stopped his research on individual elephant postures and began focusing on the interpretation of body posture clusters

“Body posture leads to change in behaviour. It’s about noticing the small things. Reading the posture allows us to predict a negative or life-threatening situation. During a sighting, we explain the postures to guests, predict the behaviour and describe how our behaviour can influence a situation. If you know how to interact with every individual and predict behaviour by the body postures, it creates both a safer and more meaningful interaction. To get an elephant to respond in a certain way, you need to keep on putting positive pressure on the animal,” he explains.

“Everyone assumes when elephants flap their ears that it’s an aggressive gesture. But it’s way more subtle than that, it’s not only about the way the animal stands, it’s the cluster of expressions that truly reflect its intentions and what it’s trying to communicate. Most guides misinterpret this.

“Elephants are ritualistic animals. To get close, you need to establish a comfort zone. And no, your vehicle is NOT a safety point. A true comfort zone can be at any distance, depending on guest and guide comfort, but is more like at the 10-metre mark. If they approach out of curiosity, they think flight, not fight. Establish the mood; be quiet. If your approach initially is correct, they’ll respect you. If your movements are slow and systematic, they accept you.”

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A New Retreat In Ancient Africa

Discover the healing power of being in the bush at Motswari’s African Retreat

BY PIPPA DE BRUYN Motswari

Set in the Greater Kruger Park, animal sightings are plentiful at Motswari African Retreat.

Opposite page: Experience the true peace of a bush sunrise.

Kindness has had a lot of good press in recent years, and gentleness deserves the same. The kind of selfless serenity that is innate, rather than learnt, rare as mismatched eyes. It radiates from Wellness Facilitator Roeline Hardy as she welcomes us, three lucky guinea pigs, here to experience a hybrid safari-wellness programme at Motswari’s new African Retreat, the first of its kind in Kruger.

To be honest, I am more on the “massage” and “rest” side of the wellness coin, with “meditation” and “yoga” a stretch too far, if you’ll pardon the pun. But who turns down three nights in Greater Kruger, the unfenced private reserves that border Kruger National Park, together creating a vast 2.5 millionhectare wilderness, one of the most pristine in Africa? And what a location this is, deep in the Umbabat Nature Reserve – thatched bungalows elevated above the banks of a sandy river bed, smooth granite boulders bookending a crystal-clear pool, where animals slake their thirst. As the sinking sun bathes the bush in a golden veil, we convene on the viewing deck, and are offered a G&T. My kind of wellness.

“Wellness means different things to different people.” Tall, elegant Marion Geiger-Orengo, owner of Motswari Private

Game Reserve, is amused by my delight. “The idea is not to be prescriptive, with a set proposal or programme. Our aim is to facilitate transformative experiences, in what is an incredibly soulful place. The idea is to encourage teachers, counsellors, therapists, seekers – anyone wanting to do the work in a supportive, private space, in a place that really encourages reflection and awe – to bring up to eight guests… They will work with Roeline, whose expertise includes yoga, tai chi, massage, breathwork, functional movement and compassionate touch, plus our chefs, who specialise in plant-based menus, and our guides, qualified to take guests into Big Five territory on foot and explain the miraculous intricacies of what you encounter.”

From the outset, Marion felt that the location of what was created as a family retreat – lovingly built over decades by her neighbour, the late Lynn Bechus – had a unique serenity. “The original name of the property is Ekuvukeni, which means ‘Awakening’ in Shangaan, and it’s so apt. There is something profoundly spiritual about the place. Lynn worked here for some years with outsider artist Renneck, and their creative expression is part of the charm. It’s a place that feels layered with family history; collected objects that carry stories.”

“THE BUSH HAS ALWAYS BEEN A PLACE OF HEALING FOR ME.”

It’s very much a Motswari characteristic, this layering of history and nostalgia with Marion’s talent for repurposing. Not that Motswari African Retreat is like any other safari experience. Instead of predawn wake-up calls and a cumulative six to eight hours driving in the reserve, we are encouraged to wake up and journal. Yoga, which often makes me want to cry in frustration, is a gentle conscious stretching, thanks to the careful ministrations of Roeline, who watches over each of us, adjusting the session to accommodate the weakest; when I skip a class, the intensity, I am told, is increased. We practise tai chi in the riverbed, our feet massaged by the cool sand, bathed in early-morning rays. A walk with Jeremy Schreiner, Motswari’s head guide, offers a hundred lessons in awe, from the elephant-leather of the impenetrable leadwood bark to the termite queen, deep within that perfectly air-conditioned tower, able to produce some 30 000 babies a day for up to 45 years. We eat meals that have us begging for recipes. And when Roeline massages, intuitively pulling back limbs, while below in the riverbed zebras snort, it is an experience of such intense pleasure that I am almost moved to tears.

“The bush has always been a place of healing for me.” Marion is seated next to one of her artworks in Geiger’s Camp,

once her older brother’s home before his tragic death in an aeroplane crash, leaving Marion to take up the reins. Geiger’s Camp is the most luxurious offering in Motswari, but it still has a sense of home, cleverly repurposed to accommodate up to eight in four large and decadent rooms, and it is a marvellous repository of family history and vintage finds. Both Geiger’s and larger Main Camp offer a more traditional safari experience, with twice daily game drives in addition to bush walks; either is a perfect adjunct to the Retreat.

Marion strokes a cushion absent-mindedly. “I’ve seen difficult family relationships improve, or the shift in large groups gathered specifically to work on trauma. There’s something about the rhythm, the balance. The wonder. It stills the mind; encourages you to be present. The outside world, with its insane demands on our time, recedes.” She smiles. “It’s hard to put into words, but being here, you feel held in some way. The wonderful steadfastness of it. The sun shows up. The animals show up. The beauty shows up.”

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Find tranquillity in motion with tai chi.

Opposite page, clockwise from top:

The yoga classes are adapted to suit each guest’s needs and experience; the chefs specialise in delicious plantbased meals; the Mopani Luxury Private Bungalow bedroom.

Gorilla Heights Lodge

A FOREST OASIS

Become enchanted by the wonders of Uganda at this luxurious, eco-friendly retreat

BY RICHARD HOLMES

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ARNOLD MUGASHA

It’s a name as evocative as the landscape itself.

Gazing out across Bwindi Impenetrable National Park from your private terrace at Gorilla Heights Lodge, it’s clear to see why this lush corner of south-western Uganda has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site for more than 30 years. Across 32 000 hectares, this world-famous national park hosts a remarkable diversity of fauna and flora. From Afromontane forest species to unbelievable birdlife, it’s a wonderland for nature-loving travellers.

And yet, it is one forest dweller that draws most travellers to Bwindi: gorillas.

Bwindi is today home to almost half of the world’s population of endangered mountain gorillas, making it one of the best places in the world to get up close to these remarkable primates. Beyond the unique opportunity to hike forest pathways in search of memorable gorilla sightings, guests can also look forward to wild chimpanzees and Golden Monkeys. African elephants dwell here too, as do myriad bird and butterfly species.

Located at the intersection of three ecological zones, Bwindi is nothing less than an oasis of wilderness amid one of Uganda’s most populated rural regions, and low-impact ecotourism is crucial for protecting this tract of pristine forest. With its location on the doorstep of the national park, Gorilla Heights Lodge plays a crucial role in conservation, while offering guests authentic luxury on the fringes of an unforgettable forest landscape.

Gorilla Heights Lodge offers 15 free-standing cottages – Deluxe, Standard and two-bedroom Family options – spread across the 12-acre estate, ensuring a sense of spacious privacy and understated luxury.

Intuitive design ensures the large windows and sliding doors frame remarkable mountain views, creating a complete immersion in the landscape. Step out onto your private balcony for unforgettable vistas as the sun rises over the jungle-clad hills of the national park, or relax indoors, where the spacious rooms are decorated in a vibrant African motif celebrating the colourful tones and rich textures of Uganda.

At the Humura Restaurant, look forward to a discovery of contemporary cuisine with flourishes of local flavour, with two dining terraces looking out across the Virunga Mountains. After dinner, retire to the Canopy Bar for dramatic views over the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.

Steps from the luxury cottages and restaurant, you’ll find a large terrace with a pool and plentiful sun loungers for relaxing in between forest adventures. Need to reboot and recharge a little more? The on-site IKE Spa offers a choice of facial treatments and massage journeys, along with a sauna and steam room.

While Gorilla Heights Lodge is a luxurious haven on the doorstep of Bwindi, it is the opportunity to get out and explore that draws most travellers to this corner of Uganda. Experienced lodge staff are on hand to arrange an array of adventures and activities.

Gorilla Heights Lodge is just minutes from the Nkuringo trekking sector – home to 48 mountain gorillas across four habituated family groups, with other nearby sectors offering

further opportunities for gorilla sightings. Treks are offered daily, and can take up to seven hours.

Beyond the gorilla treks, also allow time for a hike in search of golden monkeys in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, or an unforgettable nature walk in the biodiverse Buniga Forest. Keen birders will love the canoeing excursion on Lake Mutanda, or even the quiet serenity of a birding walk in and around Gorilla Heights Lodge. Community visits to meet the indigenous Batwa tribe can also be arranged. Finally, Queen Elizabeth National Park is a must-visit too – not least for the tree-climbing lions who live there.

Whatever draws you to the lush forests of Uganda, Gorilla Heights Lodge is a haven of luxury, comfort and charm for you to discover the beauty and adventure of Bwindi.

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From left: The bedroom of a Deluxe cottage at Gorilla Heights Lodge; guests have the opportunity to get up close with these beautiful primates.

Opposite page: The view from a Deluxe cottage. BOOK

thegreat escape

What does it really mean to get away?

BY WANITA NICOL

In the 1980s, a trend emerged in Japan. It was called Shinrin-yoku, which roughly translates to “forest bathing”, i.e. hanging out in the forest.

Its purpose was to counteract the tech fatigue that Japanese people were experiencing (strange, now, in the era of smart-everythings to think of tech fatigue in the heyday of the Sony Walkman, but apparently the Japanese were ahead of their time). The practice also had a secondary purpose –encouraging people to feel connected to the country’s forests and promote conservation. The sell: frolicking among the trees was touted as offering both physiological and psychological healing, thanks to compounds and essential oils that certain trees emitted.

Fast forward a decade or two and researchers outside of Japan started taking an interest in the practice. Could strolling through a forest really improve one’s health? Numerous studies

seem to indicate that it may. It would appear the Japanese were onto something.

Now, here’s the kicker: according to subsequent research, forests themselves are optional. Even if one doesn’t have access to trees that release essential oils and healing phytocompounds, there are health benefits to be derived from immersing oneself in nature.

CRAVING ESCAPE

Forty years later, the world seems to have caught up in the tech-fatigue stakes. The list of symptoms forest bathing is said to alleviate reads like a Wiki entry for the perils of our time: It may help with reducing stress, improving attention, boosting immunity and improving mood, according to Harvard Health. It’s the treadmill experience of everyday life that becomes so exhausting. The idea that we go through these daily, weekly, monthly routines-within-routines and they never end.

Escape the noise and step into the quiet at Mount Camdeboo Private Game Reserve.

In centuries gone by, our ancestors were nomads. Yes, they would have had the daily routine of waking, foraging, eating, sleeping, but it happened within a greater ecosystem of exploration. Every day was an adventure, albeit not always a pleasant one – staying alive wasn’t easy. Putting down roots allowed our species to develop civilisation, but it also, in more recent times, got us stuck.

Any fitness professional will tell you that your body craves movement and that the sedentary lifestyle many of us endure behind desks for hours each day is leading us towards a litany of lifestyle diseases. Equally, our minds crave novel stimulation. And above all, our bodies and minds both crave that elusive commodity that is so rare in this digital age – rest.

That’s why we get away – to step out of the day-to-day, even if it’s just for a few days. We go on adventures to challenge ourselves and do things we would never be able to do on the treadmill of normal life. It gives us a jolt, helping us get unstuck and rediscover the exhilaration of really living. We escape to places that feel removed from reality so that we don’t have to think about the depressing headlines we read on our news feeds or the fuel price or what to make for dinner.

Getting away is not just about physically removing ourselves from one space and relocating to another for a time. It’s just as much – if not more – a mind thing.

THE SIMPLE LIFE

The concept of a digital detox has become something of an ironic cliché, as much of the discussion around it happens online. But if work keeps your eyes confined to a screen or you find yourself constantly checking your phone, you must try it, at least once. Before the constant notifications of digital devices buzzing and beeping for our attention, life was simpler. A person might lose themselves between the pages of a book for an hour or more, or take a slow walk around the garden, pausing to notice flowers and the butterflies that visit them. They might even sit outside on a sunny afternoon, doing absolutely nothing and feeling no guilt because sometimes a moment of idleness is just the remedy for a tired mind.

The eco-friendly Pods at Mount Camdeboo Private Game Reserve are the perfect location to escape to for a few days of quiet. As you sink into your private wood-fired hot tub, with nothing around you but the vast semi-arid Karoo landscape, you might feel your racing thoughts slowing down and your dull tension headache dissipating into that vast expanse.

The luxurious, family-friendly manor houses, meanwhile, with their soft furnishings and wide, sun-drenched verandas, are places to rediscover offline activities like hide-and-seek, stuck-in-the-mud or board games. And the hidden-away stone cottage with its private garden and little nooks invites you to cosy up with a companion, solving the problems of a world that feels very far away.

When your mind is quiet and your thirst for adventure reawakened, you may want to head out on a game drive and immerse yourself in the simplest of worlds, where animals follow the rhythms of nature as they have for thousands of years.

Mount Camdeboo is home to a pair of cheetah brothers, born in captivity in the UK and brought to this protected environment to be rewilded. You can book a guided drive to track the cheetah and learn about this fascinating species, the fastest of land mammals. It’s also the site of ancient rock art. What a wonder to imagine the landscape as those ancient artists would have known it and to realise that you’re walking in longlost footprints left thousands of years ago.

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Mount Camdeboo Private Game Reserve is located in the Karoo at the foot of the Sneeuberg Mountain Range and close to historic sites. The 14 000-hectare property is dedicated to conservation of both plants and animals, allowing endangered species to roam freely. Guests can enjoy cheetah tracking and stargazing.

BUSHVELD BATHING

If you’ve never experienced sunrise in the bushveld, I urge you to try it. There’s something incomparably invigorating about stepping outside in the grey light when the world is too quiet, like it’s holding its breath before exhaling all the activities for the day. You’ll need a sweater – the air gets nippy in that hour before dawn, even on days when the mercury is set to climb to 40 degrees Celsius later on.

The smells of the bush – scrubby vegetation, animals – have this way of simultaneously clearing any lingering sleepiness from your mind and filling you with peace. It could be because they ground you in the moment – there’s nowhere else you’re going to get that mix of scents, so here you are, wholly present, practising mindfulness, whether that was your intention today or not.

Coffee and rusks are a bushveld breakfast staple, best enjoyed somewhere with a view, like the private deck of your secluded luxury safari tent at Nkomazi Private Game Reserve, as the natural landscape turns rosy, then golden, then bright.

If you’ve booked a morning game drive, it’s in this magical hour that it will depart. Excited for the adventure, you likely set an alarm the night before, only to discover it was unnecessary when you wake, refreshed, to the sound of birdsong all around you, and of course, the ever-present trickle of the Komati River – the soundtrack to your stay.

The luxury tents at Nkomazi Private Game Reserve feature stunning riverfront views.

Malaria-free and just three hours from Johannesburg, Nkomazi is a wonderful place to introduce children to the wonders of nature. As you make your way along the stone pathway to the main tent for a juice or warm beverage before your drive departs, they may catch a glimpse of little critters scurrying about their little critter business before the day gets too hot. Bigger animals are also more active in the early morning when it’s cool, and the drive may pass graceful giraffes nibbling the topmost leaves of a tree or zebra on their way to a watering hole. If you’re very fortunate, you may even spot a hungry cat on the hunt for an easy breakfast.

There will be birds aplenty (there are over 300 species in the reserve), but this early in the day, some of the bigger raptors may still be perched on tree branches. Leopards also enjoy trees. So don’t forget to look up.

As thrilling as it is spotting an animal though, especially for the little ones, searching the veld for animals can be enjoyable in a different way. Your brain drifts into a state of flow after a while, automatically scanning trees and scrub, trees and scrub, without you having to think about what it’s doing. And while one part of your brain is occupied with the task at hand, the other parts are free to roam, daydream, process and store bits of information that have been hanging about, keeping you awake at night.

Later, while wallowing in your private plunge-pool-witha-view or daydreaming, face down, on a massage table, you may find yourself starting to feel creative again. And when you sit down to dinner in the outdoor Lapa, as the southern hemisphere constellations chase each other across the sky, you may find your conversation has regained its wit.

It’s amazing how quickly the bushveld calm will permeate your body and mind if you let go and allow it in. Perhaps, like with the trees in Japan, there’s some kind of phytochemical the scrub releases, or perhaps it’s just your overstimulated brain soaking up the luxury of rest.

BOOK NOW

Nkomazi Private Game Reserve offers malaria-free, family-friendly luxury glamping three hours’ drive from Johannesburg. It’s home to 300 bird species and several animal species, including the Big Four – leopard, lion, elephant and buffalo. Guests can enjoy stargazing, horse riding, guided bush walks and view ancient rock art.

SEASIDE RESPITE

Nothing heals a burnt-out brain quite like escaping to an island resort. Like the studies on forest bathing, researchers have investigated the healing power of the ocean for easing troubled minds. They found spending time by the sea made people feel happier and could stimulate creativity, innovation and insight.

When you’re in the depths of burnout, or even just teetering on the edge, everything feels like a chore. Even an actionpacked vacation can look more daunting than inviting. But haul your exhausted self onto a lounger overlooking the ocean and slowly burnout starts to mend.

The ocean-facing bungalows and villa at Chuini Zanzibar Beach Lodge give you a panoramic sea view from the moment you open your eyes. After a slow, leisurely start to the day, you can wander down to the pool deck, positioned on a cliff’s edge, above the turquoise ocean. It’s a good spot to set up camp for the day, dipping in and out of the sparkling, sunwarmed swimming pool.

At first, perhaps you catch yourself napping – and that nap feels more restorative than any sleep you’ve had in as long as your wonky brain can remember.

Feeling a little energetic for a change, maybe you book a snorkelling excursion and explore Zanzibar’s famous reefs, bobbing on the surface of the warm water and enjoying visibility of up to 30 metres. And then maybe, just maybe, your vacation becomes an adventure after all, and you book a scuba-diving course or a day of big-game fishing.

As magical as a bushveld sunrise is, sunset belongs to the ocean. Located on the west coast of Zanzibar, Chuini catches the last of the sun’s rays before it disappears, taking the day along with it. And that’s how you end your stay, rejuvenated, toasting the African sun as it sinks into the sea.

BOOK NOW

Chuini Zanzibar Beach Lodge is located 12km north of the island’s famous, historic Stone Town. Guests stay in beautifully appointed open-to-nature bungalows with either garden or ocean views. White linen and wood finishings create a feeling of serenity and amenities have been designed for privacy. Guests can enjoy snorkelling, scuba diving, game fishing, boat cruises and the spa.

The pool at Chuini Zanzibar Beach Lodge offers a perfect oasis by the ocean.

A WILD WILD LIFE

Close encounters with Cape Town’s untamed neighbours

BY RYAN ENSLIN

Cape Town is a city where urban life and nature exist in a delicate, yet fascinating balance. Nestled between mountain and ocean, the city’s unique biodiversity thrives alongside its human inhabitants in many surprising ways.

It’s early on a Tuesday morning. On your walk, you take in the time-honoured, vivid-hued spectacle of the rising sun. You round a bend and catch a fleeting glimpse of something moving silently through the bushes that flank your path. You stop, heart racing beyond what your fitness gadget can measure, and share the briefest of moments with a slender-shaped figure. Its tawnybrown fur, large black ears and long legs identify it as the largest remaining predator in the area – a notoriously shy caracal. It’s a rare sighting, one that few locals can claim.

Cape Town is a city of contrasts, a place where the rhythm of urban life beats in sync with the whisper of the wild. Most who visit come seeking time on iconic Table Mountain or perhaps with a desire to take in the melting pot of vibrant cultures found in this place; possibly, for others, a soupçon of historic architecture. But don’t overlook Cape Town for the wildlife experience on your doorstep. Minutes from the city centre await encounters with caracals, penguins, baboons, snakes and marine

giants in a union between urban sprawl and natural habitat that serves as a testament to the city’s rich biodiversity.

THE CARACAL GHOST IN THE CITY

The caracal is a master of stealth. These solitary cats are highly adaptable, thriving in an array of environments, from the fynboscovered slopes of Table Mountain to city-fringe areas. And as the city expands, their habitats become increasingly threatened. The Urban Caracal Project seeks to understand the Cape Peninsula’s caracal population and evaluate urbanisation’s effects on it.

“Caracals are good indicators of ecosystem health,” shares Gabriella Leighton, PhD, the local project coordinator at the Urban Caracal Project, “they are the top predator in the area, and as such, they face many risks, which tells us much about threats to all species across the food web.” The project’s work underscores the importance of preserving natural corridors within the city to ensure that caracals and other wildlife can continue to coexist alongside Cape Town’s ever-expanding human population. “Generally, having caracals indicates sufficient connected green space and prey species, a sign of an intact ecosystem,” continues Gabriella. By tracking caracals, the project provides valuable data that assists in urban planning and helps mitigate human-wildlife conflict.

The caracal – as beautiful as it is elusive.

Opposite page: The delicate balance between urban life and the wild.

“BABOONS... INCREASINGLY VENTURE INTO URBAN AREAS FOR FOOD, RESULTING IN FREQUENT ENCOUNTERS WITH HUMANS.”

Baboons roam freely, a reminder of the untamed beauty that thrives in the city’s natural landscapes.

Opposite page, from left: An African penguin on Boulders Beach near Simon’s Town; a dassie takes in the breathtaking views of Camps Bay.

PENGUINS, BABOONS AND BEYOND

While the caracal may be the city’s most elusive resident, the biodiversity in Cape Town is vast and varied. A short drive from the city centre, Boulders Beach plays home to a colony of distinctive black and white African penguins. Here, wildlife is not hidden away in remote areas, but instead makes up an important part of the everyday landscape, with visitors in arm’s reach of these clumsy yet graceful birds. It’s a conservation success story in the making, thanks to the Southern African Foundation for the Conservation of Coastal Birds (SANCCOB), who work tirelessly to conserve seabirds. The African penguin is their flagship species of focus. SANCCOB rescues and rehabilitates injured and oiled birds, ensuring the protection of their breeding habitats. The series of boardwalks at Boulders Beach allows enthusiastic

humans an immersive encounter with the penguins while ensuring their environment remains undisturbed.

In the southern reaches of the Cape Peninsula, another group of wild residents has adapted to urban life – baboons. These intelligent primates increasingly venture into urban areas for food, resulting in frequent encounters with humans. The Cape Peninsula Baboon Strategic Management Plan, spearheaded by the Cape Peninsula Baboon Management Joint Task Team, recently proposed a plan to mitigate these conflicts over the next ten years. A key objective is to keep baboons wild and prevent them from becoming reliant on human food sources, which is detrimental to their health. Other efforts include monitoring baboon movements, securing waste to avoid raids and educating the public on coexistence with wild animals.

“SPENDING TIME IN CAPE TOWN MEANS SHARING YOUR SPACE WITH SOME OF NATURE’S MOST FASCINATING CREATURES.”

For the adventurous, who explore the myriad trails on Table Mountain, the rich tapestry of biodiversity can lead to an encounter with a variety of snake species that call these slopes home. Among the most notable are the Cape cobra, the puff adder and the boomslang. Though often feared, these snakes are vital to maintaining nature’s delicate balance on the mountain. They control rodent populations, affecting the entire food chain, from predators like caracals to the diverse birdlife that inhabits the mountain, a member of the New 7 Wonders of Nature club. While on the mountain, be sure to also look out for buck and tahrs, often seen clambering over the rocks.

CAPE TOWN’S OTHER WILD RESIDENTS

Cape Town’s urban wild is not limited to caracals, penguins and baboons. The city is teeming with wildlife surprises for even the most seasoned residents. For those exploring the city’s green spaces, encounters with smaller creatures are just as common. In the Company’s Garden, a haven of tranquillity in the heart of the Mother City, squirrels dart between trees as old as the city itself, while dassies top up their vitamin D on rocky outcrops.

The region’s rich biodiversity is not limited by its terrestrial borders either, continuing into the surrounding oceans. The waters off the coast are teeming with life, from great white sharks doing duty along the surf to majestic southern right whales and orcas that migrate to warmer waters to calf and, for a while, visit the coastline. This theatre of marine wonders is a constant reminder of the ocean’s proximity to city life. Local organisations, including Shark Spotters, play a vital role in ensuring the sustainable coexistence of bathers and sharks alike. By monitoring shark activity and raising awareness, they navigate the spatial overlap between people and sharks to reduce the risk of encounters while promoting the conservation of these often-misunderstood creatures.

A CITY LIKE NO OTHER

Spending time in Cape Town means sharing your space with some of nature’s most fascinating creatures. It’s a city where, within minutes, you can go from bustling streets and waterfront quays to the serene company of caracals, penguins and whales. It’s a city where the proximity to nature is not something distant or abstract, but immediate and tangible, woven into the very fabric of urban life.

From top: Big or small, there’s myriad wildlife to be seen in the Mother City, including whales and squirrels; a bontebok crosses the road at Cape Point Nature Reserve; a seal basks in the sun at Hout Bay Harbour.

Cycle the City

Bicycling is the best way to explore Cape Town’s inner city and coastline

BY ANDREW THOMPSON

Few recreational activities, particularly those that you can, conceivably, do while on holiday, are as divisive as cycling.

Depending on where you stand, that Lycra kit is either one step closer towards aerodynamic perfection or, quite frankly, far too revealing. That heel-only penguin shuffle across the coffee shop floor? Either a finely honed skill deserving of a hot cortado, or the ultimate invitation for a gentle nudge.

But in a scenic city like Cape Town, where car-free cycle routes, dedicated lanes and easy rentals are growing increasingly common, that gap between the fans and the detractors is slowly starting to fill.

Central to this movement are hotels like the V&A Waterfront’s Queen Victoria and Dock House, which now conveniently champion bicycles as the best and most sustainable way to explore Cape Town.

Saunter out onto the Sea Point Promenade, especially over a weekend, and you’ll see this playing out in joyful, non-motorised abandon.

There, beaming bikers wobble along the paving stones with child-like glee, stealing glances at the shimmering ocean to one side and public art installations, Signal Hill, and Lion’s Head to the other.

Many pull over for selfies; the bravest controversially try them while on the move. And most are, at some stage, drawn in by the temptation of at least one Promenade-side cafe or restaurant – say, the classic Winchester Hotel or the vibey Sotano – to gather strength for the final stretch or to reflect on a successful morning on two wheels.

The pleasure of cycling a city like Cape Town is multifaceted. On a bicycle, all 14 return kilometres of the mostly flat Sea Point Promenade are within easy reach without so much as having to cross an active road or change gear. Walking a similar distance would take three times as long, require significantly more physical output, and lack the thrill of staying upright.

But the adventurous can venture even further – into the Cape Town city centre

or up through the tranquil Company’s Garden, mostly without straying from one of several demarcated cycle paths.

Further south down the Cape Peninsula, past Clifton and then Camps Bay, is Victoria Road, which presents a few more hills on one of Cape Town’s most scenic roads. It’s wedged between the 12 Apostles and cool Atlantic, and for one day a year, it serves as the final glorious stretch on the world’s largest timed cycling event, the Cape Town Cycle Tour.

How far and serious you intend to take it does, of course, depend on your own persuasions and skill level. But even for the non-cyclists, there are few better ways to spend a morning exploring the city.

And not to pick sides, but unlike the passive onboard experience of a tour bus or private vehicle, any distance covered on two wheels comes with a glistening brow that adds a real sense of achievement to your sightseeing – which, if nothing else, makes that mid-morning coffee or sunset beer taste that much better.

4 Best Cape Town Cycle Routes

DOCK HOUSE TO QUEEN VICTORIA

If you’re staying in the Dock House Boutique Hotel or Queen Victoria Hotel, you’ll do well to pick up a bicycle and follow your handlebars around the pedestrianised walkways of the V&A Waterfront. Cross the bridges to the Silo District, and head back towards the breakwater located behind

The Cape Wheel. This is an ideal route to get a feel for the thrill of exploring Cape Town by bicycle.

TIME: 1-2 HOURS

DIFFICULTY: EASY

THE FULL PROMENADE

From the V&A Waterfront, you’re within quick and safe reach of the Sea Point Promenade. Once there, the entire 7km stretch of nonmotorised pathway is at your disposal, and you can go for as long or short a ride as your legs feel. But to feel the full value of cycling, plan for the Promenade, close to the popular Saunders’ Rock Tidal Pool, before returning. A detour at the Green Point Lighthouse into the urban park nearby is a fantastic addition.

TIME: 2-3 HOURS

DIFFICULTY: EASY

BREE STREET TO COMPANY’S GARDEN

If you’re confident on public roads, head out from the V&A Waterfront and venture up the popular Bree Street. Cycle lanes make travel up Bree Street relatively safe, and it’s possible to weave your way through to the inner city’s Company’s Garden and back. Return the secret way to the city’s Foreshore precinct by passing through

the Cape Town International Convention Centre and following the canals back to the V&A Waterfront.

TIME: 2-4 HOURS

DIFFICULTY: MEDIUM

QUEEN VICTORIA TO VICTORIA ROAD

Accomplished cyclists will relish the views, long, steady climb and rapid descent on the famous Victoria Road to Hout Bay. Follow the Promenade and continue past Clifton and Camps Bay. The traffic speeds up there, but a wide shoulder offers safe cycling for those comfortable riding adjacent to traffic. Depending on your legs, continue up to Llandudno or even Hout Bay –but be warned, a return cycle from Hout Bay will require an arduous return up the infamous Suikerbossie hill.

TIME: 3-4 HOURS

DIFFICULTY: HARD

Renting bicycles

Guests at Queen Victoria Hotel & The Manor House at the V&A Waterfront will find Newmark’s new bicycles (complete with bicycle baskets) conveniently located outside the hotel entrance. Scan the Rideaway QR code, enter your payment information, and your bike is ready to ride.

This route between Dock House Boutique Hotel and Queen Victoria Hotel is an easy one hour ride.

On The Town

Find the perfect base to enjoy the summer buzz in Cape Town this season

BY ANDREW THOMPSON

In 2023, a record-breaking December saw 400 000 visitors move through Cape Town – and the 2024 peak season looks set to welcome more tourists to the Mother City than ever before.

But summer in the city is about more than sizzling sunshine and busy beaches – it’s also when the city’s nightlife and outdoor venues come to life, when local and international performers descend on the city’s various venues, and when restaurants and rooftop bars fill up with cocktail-sipping locals and wide-eyed holidaymakers, often gazing out over the ultimate scenic backdrops.

Although the temptation might be to look towards harbour or mountain views for a December stay, there’s something magnetic about being immersed in the drone of downtown Cape Town over the summer.

Proximity to nightlife and all the action that precedes it is a massive benefit of this precinct – the city’s best bars and clubs are often just a brief Uber, or even shorter elevator, ride away. And even if you’re heading further afield, you’re in an ideal location to venture out.

But there’s also something to be said for non-night owls staying in the city. Early Saturday morning saunters through Cape Town’s CBD deliver a sense of fresh anticipation. Coffee shops and cafes roll up their shutters, the hiss of espresso machines follows, and by mid-morning, the city has fully revived itself from the night before – and is gearing up for the one that’s imminent.

Summer is an infectiously cyclical time in the city, as visitors bring fresh energy to a local contingent equally ready to let loose. Whether this means basking in the sunset glow at

an outdoor concert, wandering humming city streets between art exhibitions, or venturing underground until the early hours at one of the city’s famous nightclubs, you’ll find this a spirit hard to resist.

FINGER ON THE PULSE AT THE ROCKEFELLER HOTEL & RESIDENCES

Ask anyone who has been to the Rockefeller Hotel & Residences and they’ll tell you this trendy, eminently Instagramable high-rise hotel is always bustling. But there’s a new energy that descends over the summer peak period.

It’s over summer that you’re just as likely to catch a glimpse of Africa’s most celebrated musicians cradling whiskey sours at the Foreshore’s trendiest rooftop lounge and bar, STUDIO, as you are seeing them soak up the night before at the buzzing downstairs breakfast bar.

This is a hotel with its finger on the city’s pulse, which you’ll feel the moment you check in and before you slip through the sliding doors into the warm summer evening.

The kitchen and room service are open 24 hours for pre- or post-party snacking, which is always a nice bonus for the dedicated reveller. And regular rooftop events set to views of Lion’s Head, Table Mountain, and downtown Cape Town are often enticing enough for guests not to bother leaving the premises, and instead to hit the up button on the hallway elevator.

CLASSY SOPHISTICATION AT THE ONYX HOTEL

The Onyx Hotel, a short walk from the V&A Waterfront and within reach of many popular restaurants, theatres, and nightclubs, signalled a revival for the Foreshore’s historic Heerengracht district. This is an ideal hotel if you’re intent on maximising a Cape Town urban summer.

The hotel’s trendy MRKT coffee shop will serve you a perfectly weighted early-morning coffee and all-day bites in chic, tranquil surroundings. The in-house restaurant, YU, on the other end of the hotel’s reception, is an ideal launchpad for a night on the town.

But before you head out or, depending on your persuasions, turn in, a drink at the sophisticated Granite Bar is a must.

This fourth-floor venue, seemingly clipped to the side of the hotel and overhanging one of the city’s oldest streets, offers a fresh-air view of Devil’s Peak and Table Mountain that pairs perfectly with its urban high-rise foreground.

Venturing out

Venturing out in Cape Town is part of the reason for checking in. And just as nightclubs and bars fill up, so do open-air venues like beach clubs, gardens, and even the city’s streets.

Here are four annual outdoor events that run throughout summer and are worth adding to your calendar:

THE GALILEO OPEN AIR CINEMA

The magnificent Galileo Open Air Cinema offers a more tranquil take on the Cape Town summer. These cinemas pop up each summer at unique venues around the city, including various wine farms. Galileo shows cult classics, contemporary films, and documentaries in a laid-back, picnic-style setting with food trucks and a great family or datenight atmosphere.

WEDNESDAY NIGHTS AT ORANJEZICHT CITY FARM MARKET

Weekend mornings at the Oranjezicht City Farm Market are firm year-round fixtures on most calendars, but the seasonal Wednesday night markets are the perfect summer celebration. They take place on Wednesday nights every September to April from 5pm to 9pm and always offer a new energy and atmosphere. The focus here is on food, drink, and local vendors, but as the market fills up, the light revelry picks up to match it.

FIRST THURSDAYS

First Thursdays is a perennial local favourite and a big hit with visiting guests. Every first Thursday of the month, bars and galleries open their doors to showcase local musicians and art – often for free and always on trend. Many head out to soak up the street festival atmosphere, but with some planning, it’s possible to turn this into the week’s best cultural and nightlife excursion.

KIRSTENBOSCH SUMMER SUNSET CONCERT SERIES

Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden hosts live musical performances in a surreal natural amphitheatre each Sunday afternoon in summer. The event hosts various artists, from pop to rock and classical. Even if the genre isn’t to your exact liking, chances are you’ll have a memorable time in one of the world’s most unique outdoor venues.

INSIDE THE NEW ERA OF

LUXURY TRAVEL

Future Found Sanctuary luxury hotel in Cape Town offers more than just opulent accommodations, it delivers an immersive experience in nature, redefining luxury through space, privacy and authentic engagement

BY RYAN ENSLIN

It’s a balmy Wednesday evening in Cape Town, one on which ephemeral twilight rhythms inspire bouts of contemplation in a seeking soul. I navigate my way through meandering streets high above Hout Bay, a 25-minute drive from the city centre. Being new to this part of Cape Town adds a welcome sense of anticipation to my navigation. I arrive at a large black gate; as it opens, I gaze excitedly upon a sprawling mountainside retreat that sparks an instant release of butterflies in my tummy. A time of escape awaits.

Located on the back slopes of Table Mountain, Future Found Sanctuary is a luxury private mountain escape offering an intimate immersion in nature. As I make my way through the property, I contemplate the essence of luxury travel in a post-pandemic world. One where travellers hark after ever-more meaningful, immersive experiences as they seek that illusive, ultimate indulgence. And I wonder how this will play out during my stay.

The definition of luxury travel is no longer about plush accommodation and amenities alone – rather, luxuryseeking travellers are more interested in intangible luxuries, those of space, time and privacy, and the chance to disconnect from the world.

“THE PROPERTY BOASTS THREE PRIVATE VILLAS HIDDEN IN FIVE SPLENDID GARDENS.”

OF VILLAS AND MANICURED GARDENS

As I continued my stay, I found these intangibles woven into the very fabric of Future Found Sanctuary’s design, particularly in its villas and gardens. The property boasts three private villas hidden in five splendid gardens, designed to draw guests out onto the earthen lands beneath them. With the property’s location on the back slopes of Table Mountain, most walks get my heart racing in mere minutes. On one such walk,

I find a leafy coral tree and enjoy its shade and a moment of respite from the relentless African sun.

On another walk, the Five Elements Garden captures my attention as it celebrates wind, fire, spirit, earth and water within its confines. With a heightened awareness of these elements around me, I intentionally slow down my pace and create a space to revel in the horticultural incarnations of the five elements of nature. I feel the property weave her spiritual power deep within my soul as I take off my shoes to walk barefoot on the manicured lawns, something I haven’t done since childhood. Their intention to draw guests onto the land is working on me.

Leaning into its location, Future Found Sanctuary boasts a private natural pool at the top end of the property. Knowing that it’s fed by a stream from deep within Table Mountain, my imagination immediately took to varying flights of fancy as I made my way in its general direction. I was keen to try a session of cold-water plunging, and what better place to undertake my first immersion than in the very bosom of Mother Nature herself? Talk about disconnecting from the world; the icy waters literally reset my system.

Above: The bedroom of the Grand Master Suite at Maison Noir.

Opposite page, from left: Bespoke furniture pieces and curated local art at Maison Noir; local flavours shine in the retreat’s culinary offerings.

Previous spread: Villa Verte.

THE GRAND MASTER SUITE

Invigorated by my plunge, I returned to my Grand Master Suite at Maison Noir, one of the three villas at Future Found Sanctuary. The suite is the epitome of a mountainside retreat, boasting scenic views of the surrounding mountains and picture-perfect manicured gardens, all of which can be taken in from the privacy of your king-sized bed. The private lounge with fireplace is ideal for those chilly evenings and pairs well with a glass of Merlot and a good book. Your personal butler is on hand to attend to the details.

Maison Noir is a secluded five-bedroom luxury villa that enticed my senses with its elemental design, bespoke furniture pieces and curated local art collection. A veritable sensory overload for the modern aesthete. The villa can also be booked on an exclusive-use basis for those seeking the ultimate in private escapes.

Additional accommodation is available on the property at Villa Verte and in the Mountain View Villa. Villa Verte, an architectural masterpiece, offers four opulent rooms with sweeping views, and blends a contemporary urban aesthetic with soulful South African interiors. Each villa has its own private chef, who is on standby to cook you up a culinary storm.

The recently launched exclusive-use Mountain View Villa, complete with its striking cylindrical stone tower, lets you embrace five-star luxury. Here, you can enjoy a private-pool oasis, a state-of-the-art braai area, a master suite with a lavish en-suite

bathroom and walk-in wardrobe, and a Smeg-adorned kitchen. No luxury has been forgotten here.

THE CULINARY EXPERIENCE

Elevating your stay beyond traditional indulgence, Future Found Sanctuary incorporates local flavours and ingredients from the adjacent area and neighbouring forest into its culinary offering. This, in turn, allows the discerning guest insight into, and fosters a lasting connection with, this unique space in the Cape Town biosphere. A fish braai on one evening saw guests from all villas come together in a time-honoured South African tradition. Conversations lasted long into the night while we dined on the most succulent yellowtail fish, fresh from the Hout Bay harbour. As it turned out, the butterflies were a forbearer of good things, as Future Found Sanctuary allowed me the space to rest in nature while disconnecting from the world at large. They have seamlessly integrated a luxury travel experience into the unique landscape, there on the back slopes of Table Mountain. Future Found Sanctuary doesn’t just offer an escape –it offers a profound reconnection with nature, and with yourself. Now, that is luxury redefined.

Finding Sanctuary

Transformative travel is no longer just about taking a break from the hustle for a few days – it has the potential to change your everyday habits, for life

BY WANITA NICOL

Celebrity trainer Steve Uria is well-known in fitness circles for his pioneering and innovative approach to getting results. He’s trained international pro athletes, Victoria’s Secret models, Fortune 500 CEOs, and created group workouts including Sweat 1000 and Switch Playground – all of which have near-cult followings. But today, the man who was voted Top Fitness Trainer in the USA by Vogue is sitting on a sundrenched patio at Future Found Sanctuary in Cape Town, looking utterly serene.

“Look at this, it’s a beautiful space,” he says, pointing across expansive, verdant gardens with rocky mountaintops peeking out behind the trees. It’s hard to believe this garden at Future Found Sanctuary in Hout Bay is just a 25-minute drive from the city. It feels otherworldly – a place where time moves more slowly and even the air has the power to heal and restore, leaving you permanently transformed.

It was this concept of transformative travel that led to the creation of Future Found Sanctuary – and a focus on wellbeing that is filtering through all Newmark’s properties, with Steve leading the way.

PRESSING RESET

“Hospitality is becoming more than just a stay – it’s experiential,” says Steve. He’s been looking at how well-being can be integrated into the ethos of Newmark so that you not only leave with good memories, but also a sense that your stay has improved your life.

“I’ve started here at Future Found Sanctuary,” he says. “It’s a sanctuary space where we incorporate well-being into the luxury offering – it has a beautiful gym, an incredible spa, and now we’re starting to marry retreats into the property here and also at Motswari African Retreat, a new addition to Motswari Private Game Reserve in Timbavati.”

The word “retreat” might conjure images of walking around in silence, or stoic deprivation, but the truth is retreats can be many things. The goals, however, are universal – to slow down, restore a sense of well-being, improve mental focus, bring the mind and body into harmony, and leave rejuvenated.

And you can expect several types of retreat experiences – from sound journeys and acupuncture to yoga, tai chi, Qigong, or intense fitness. Spas include restorative

modalities, like the Rasul chamber and cold-plunge therapy. And completing the experience, guests enjoy secluded, five-star accommodation, with wholesome meals prepared by top chefs.

The result is that people come to Future Found Sanctuary with plans of exploring Cape Town and its surrounds, but once they’ve experienced the otherworldly stillness, they want to stay, soaking up the serenity; exhaling; healing.

WELL-BEING FOR EVERY TRAVELLER

Not everyone has the luxury of indulging in a days-long retreat. Those staying at properties that don’t offer retreats will find wellness offerings tailored to that specific property – such as rehydration therapies at the inner-city hotels.

For a restorative, retreat-style experience without the time commitment, Sanctuary Spas have been created as havens where people can find healing and tranquillity in the city.

The idea is not just to offer exceptional treatments but rather a fully immersive experience that lulls guests into a calmer space from the moment they step across

Book Your Escape

Immerse yourself in Future Found Sanctuary in Hout Bay, Cape Town, and Motswari African Retreat, a new addition to Motswari Private Game Reserve in greater Kruger Park. Experience inner-city serenity at Sanctuary Spas at The Onyx Hotel, Queen Victoria Hotel & Manor House, Dock House Boutique Hotel, Victoria & Alfred Hotel and The Winchester Hotel in Cape Town, and The Catalyst Hotel in Johannesburg. Visit the Newmark website to find out more, newmarkhotels.com

the threshold. Sound healing is used for lowering stress levels and creating a deep sense of peace and this has been carefully integrated into the Sanctuary Spas experience, along with aromatherapy to stimulate healing and stress release.

Touch-therapy treatments combine ancient techniques with modern science to give guests a deep reset in a short space of time, leaving them feeling rejuvenated. Breathwork is also a key part of the Sanctuary Spas experience, not only deepening relaxation in the moment, but equipping guests with a tool they can turn to long after they’ve returned to their everyday lives.

It’s all part of the goal to create lasting healthy change.

Motswari African Retreat offers a number of different wellness activities, including tai chi, breathwork and bush bathing.

Opposite page: Enjoy yoga in the garden at Future Found Sanctuary.

Room with a View

Checking in at night has its benefits. You put down your bags, settle in, and usually fall into a luxurious bed that only hotels seem to have.

Then you hear the sea. A background, distant rumble at first, and then, as you remember where you are, it’s the slow, gentle waves crashing on the shore just outside your balcony.

Waking up, you open your curtains, slide open the door and smile. The view is even better than you imagined – an expanse of blue with an island on the horizon and an avenue of palms swaying in the sea breeze.

But no, you’re not in Mauritius, you’re on the edge of Cape Town on what’s known locally as the Platinum Mile in Green Point. Staying at La Splendida Hotel, you’re close to the buzz of the promenade below, but

the endless view from the superior corner Room 301 on the top floor elevates all the senses. From the balcony, you have the best view of the entire Atlantic Seaboard, with famous Robben Island directly ahead. You breathe, and relax. This is exactly what you came for.

La Splendida is that small hotel on the seafront that instantly makes you feel like you’re on holiday, but with access to the city and the action-packed prom that stretches from the Atlantic beaches to the Waterfront.

You can walk the promenade, explore the local tidal pools or enjoy a lazy brunch at Sotano, the Mediterraneanstyle cafe downstairs. But don’t miss sundowners – the cocktails are almost as good as the view. Santé!

BIG BANG