Homesteader Spring 2025 by New England Newspapers, Inc.

Homesteader

~ Your Guide to Rugged Outdoor Lifestyles ~

Poison parsnip and poison ivy, false hellebore galore

By Jim Therrien

Water you wading for? It’s stocking season

By Danielle M. Crosier

Grow an abundant harvest of peppers this season

By Melinda Myers

SEVCA can help taxpayers ﬁll out Homestead Declaration

By Henry Homeyer

Vermont forester’s book oﬀers hope for healing ecosystems By Chris Mays An easy beginners guide to prepping your garden By Danielle M. Crosier Guilford hydropower pioneer taps into streams and brooks for free energy with no dams By Alexander Belogour Spring’s ephemeral ethics: foraging with respect By Rachael

Morin

By Melinda Myers

The wonder of herbs By Gertrude

B. Foster

Be a weather watching gardener By Melinda Myers

Homesteader

~ Your Guide to Rugged Outdoor Lifestyles ~

President and Publisher

Jordan Brechenser jbrechenser@reformer.com

Content Editor

Lylah Wright lwright@reformer.com

Sales Managers

Lylah Wright lwright@reformer.com Susan Plaisance splaisance@ benningtonbanner.com

Digital Marketing Manager

Ahmad Yassir ayassir@ benningtonbanner.com

Sales Executives

Richard Lolatte rlolatte@reformer.com

Richard Battista rbattista@reformer.com

Ahmad Yassir ayassir@ benningtonbanner.com

70 Landmark Dr., Brattleboro, VT vtnewsmedia.com

Cover photo submitted by: Dutton Berry Farm, Farmstand & Greenhouse Locations include: 2083 Depot Street, Manchester, VT; 407 VT-30, Newfane, VT & 308 Marlboro Rd., Brattleboro, VT. See their ad on page 17.

Grow an abundant harvest of peppers this season

By Melinda Myers Homesteader Magazine

Whether you garden on an acre or a balcony, there’s always room for peppers. Grow them in a vegetable garden, container, or with your flowers. The colorful fruit of many varieties makes them a decorative addition to any garden.

For those that like it hot, get to know the Scoville scale. This system rates the relativive hotness of peppers with bell peppers rating 0, jalapeno at 2,500 to 5,000, cayenne rated 30,000 to 50,000, and habanero receiving the superhot 100,000 to 300,000 Scoville Heat Units (SHU). This scale can help you determine which hot pepper is best for you. For those who like really hot peppers, the Ghost pepper averages about 1 million SHU, Carolina Reaper averages 1.6 million SHU and Pepper X measures 2.7 million SHU.

Whether you grow sweet or hot peppers, proper care from planting to harvest will yield the best flavor and an abundant harvest. Grow peppers in a sunny location with moist, well-drained soil. Add several inches of organic matter into the top 8 to 12” of soil, if gardening in poorly drained clay soil or fast draining sandy or rocky soils. This compost improves drainage and increases the water holding ability of fast draining soils. This is also a good time to add a low nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer.

Peppers, like its cousins, tomatoes and eggplants, like it warm. Wait for the soil to warm to 60° degrees, about two weeks after the last

spring frost. Colder temperatures in the 40’s can stunt and damage your transplants.

You can jump start the season with the help of cloches, wall-o-waters, and floating row covers. These protect your plants from frost and cooler temperatures, which are often common at the start of the season. Use them to keep plants warm and help shorten the time to harvest.

Plant peppers 18 to 20 inches apart depending on the variety. Check the tag for mature size and recommended spacing. Make the most of your available space by planting in wide rows. Stagger rows within the bed, allowing just enough room for plants to reach their full size. Design pathways to allow for easy access to all the plants within the wide row.

Grow a few peppers in containers alone or mix them with herbs and flowers. A 2-to-3-gallon pot is perfect for a pepper plant and its smaller companions. Check the soil moisture daily and water thoroughly when the top inch of soil is dry.

Make sure pepper plants growing in the ground receive about an inch of water each week. Supplement rainfall as needed, applying water to the soil surface using a watering wand, soaker hose or drip irrigation. Spread a layer of shredded leaves, evergreen needles or other organic material over the soil surface to conserve moisture, keep roots cool as temperatures soar, and help suppress weeds.

Once the fruit forms, you

may need to add fertilizer. Let the plants’ growth and fertilizer directions be your guide.

Peppers grow and produce best when day temperatures are 70 to 80 degrees and night temperatures are 60 to 70 degrees. Hot peppers seem to tolerate the heat better than sweet varieties. Cold, heat, and drought are the most common causes of blossom drop, misshapen fruit, and a poor harvest. Night temperatures over 90 degrees and under 55 degrees can cause blossoms to drop. Continue providing proper care and wait for better weather for flowering and fruiting.

With proper care throughout the season and a bit of cooperation from the weather, you are sure to enjoy an abundant harvest.

Melinda Myers has written over 20 gardening books, including Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, Revised Edition, and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine. Myers’ website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

PHOTO COURTESY OF ALL-AMERICA SELECTIONS Peppers can be grown in container gardens or the ground.

HARDYPLANTS VIA WIKIMEDIA

When on the lookout for poison ivy while on the trail, it is always best to remember the old traveler’s rhyme: “Leaves of three, let it be.”

Lily of the Valley’s white ﬂowers cause a serious reaction if ingested, and young children may pick the pretty ﬂowers or reddish orange berries and put them in their mouths.

False hellebore is poisonous if ingested and sometimes is mistakenly picked by foragers looking for edible ramps.

Poison parsnip and poison ivy, false hellebore galore!

— Beware as you take to Green Mountain trails —

By By Jim Therrien Bennington Banner

BENNINGTON — Tick season and Lyme disease get a lot of deserved attention in Vermont in the warmer months, but several wild plants offer their own nasty keepsakes to amblers in the Green Mountain State.

A surprising number of common plants can prove toxic to humans to some degree, and it pays to know what is sprouting in your yard, along roadways, beside hiking trails or in recreation areas, Vermont State Toxicologist Sarah Vose said.

In general, toxic or “poisonous” plants can be certifiably poisonous if ingested, or they can cause a skin rash or second-degree burns replete with ugly raised blisters.

FALSE HELLEBORE

Early in the season, for-

agers looking for ramps in wooded areas don’t want to mistake false hellebore for the edible green-leafed plant. Ramps, Vose said, have an odor like onions or garlic, something the false hellebore lacks.

“Ramps are super-pungent,” she said.

In one recent summer season, there were 25 reports of people being treated at hospitals after ingesting false hellebore in Vermont.

“And that’s only those who were treated at hospitals,” Vose said. “There could have been many more.”

The white flowers of the Lily of the Valley also cause a serious reaction if ingested, she said, and a concern with the plant is that children might pick the pretty flowers or reddish orange berries and put them in their mouths.

COMMONS

LIZ WEST VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS

US FOREST SERVICE PHOTO

STATE OF VERMONT IMAGE

A poster alerts hikers and others to the possibility of poison wild parsnip in the area.

PARSNIP, IVY

More common around Vermont, and within the experience of many people, are the familiar wild parsnip and poison ivy.

Vost said the tall, yellow-flowered wild parsnip is commonly found in fields or along roadsides, and it causes a reaction when the plant’s sap comes into contact with the skin. The reaction is triggered by sunlight — called photodermatitis, sun poisoning or photoallergy — and avoiding sun on affected areas after exposure can reduce the effects.

Furocoumarin is the chemical in wild parsnip that causes this plant to react with sunlight and damage skin.

DON’T BURN IT

“And who hasn’t had poison ivy?” Vose noted.

She cautioned that burning yard waste that includes poison ivy plants produces toxic smoke that is an irritant to the eyes or to the respiratory system.

According to the Mayo Clinic website, poison ivy usually requires only home treatment, which can include over-the-counter cortisone cream or ointment and application of calamine lotion.

If the rash is widespread or causes a lot of blisters, a doctor may prescribe an oral corticosteroid, such as prednisone, to reduce swelling, according to the University of Vermont website.

For exposure to wild parsnip, the Vermont Department of Health recommends washing the skin thoroughly with soap and water as soon as possible,

protecting exposed skin from sunlight for at least 48 hours, and calling a health care provider if the person experiences a skin reaction.

PROFESSIONAL PRECAUTIONS

For tree workers and landscapers, there’s no way to ignore poisonous plants, but Mike D’Agata, one of the owners of Greater Heights Tree and Land Management in Pownal, said the best advice he would give property owners is to just avoid it — and to cover your skin if you might be anywhere near poison ivy, poison parsnip or similar plants.

“Poison ivy is the big one, because it can climb up trees,” he said. “It can be ground cover; it can be a vine. We can get trees that are just covered in poison ivy. Lot of times you don’t notice it until you get into it.”

A crew member once had to take two days off after poison ivy spread over his body, D’Agata said. “He was completely covered. Probably the worst reaction I’ve ever seen.”

On the other hand, D’Agata said some workers, like himself, could “roll around in it” and only get only a mild rash from poison ivy, although he has noticed he’s become more susceptible to the plant’s effects over the years.

For property owners, D’Agata urges caution when trying to rid areas of poisonous plants, since contact with the sap — picked up on clothing, mowing or cutting equipment — can result in a reaction later on.

His crew members are careful to immediately

wash skin that might have been exposed, he said, and in their trucks, they carry packaged wipes that remove ivy or parsnip sap.

HIKER HAZARDS

Hikers often encounter toxic plants and should know how to deal with them.

Silvia Cassano, the cochair of Bennington’s Appalachian Trail Committee, said she recommends learning to identify wild parsnip and other poisonous plants and advises wearing “pants and/or gaiters covering their ankles. Long-sleeve shirts can help (plants can be tall).”

She adds, “If you walk through anything poisonous, the sap/oils could be on your shoes and gaiters. I always wash my hands after removing gaiters, and I inspect them for seeds.”

If skin blisters appear, Cassano said, “Do not rupture for as long as possible and seek medical atten-

tion.” She encountered hikers in Bennington County who “had a terrible rash on their shins and had to go to urgent care.”

In the Bennington area, she said, there is wild parsnip in the grassy area where the Appalachian and Long trails cross Vermont Route 9 in Woodford, as well as on both sides of the tunnel under Route 279 on the Bald Mountain Trail to the White Rocks.

Pets, too, can pick up the plant’s sap. “Give your pet a bath if you think they came in contact with plant sap or oil, so the plant oil does not spread to you through touch or surfaces,” Cassano said.

Jim Therrien — reports for the three Vermont News Media newspapers in Southern Vermont. He previously worked as a reporter and editor at The Berkshire Eagle, the Bennington Banner, The Springfield Republican and the former North Adams Transcript.

STATE OF VERMONT IMAGE

False Hellebore

SEVCA can help taxpayers ﬁll out Homestead Declaration

WESTMINSTER — If you are a Vermont homeowner, you can receive a reduction in your property taxes by filing a Homestead Declaration, but you need to act fast to meet the October 15 deadline. Once filed, your tax rate is discounted based on your income.

Southeastern Vermont Community Action (SEVCA) offers free assistance with filing out the Homestead Declaration. If you are a

Vermont homeowner, you are required to file a Homestead Declaration every year to receive the homestead property tax rate. Many individuals can lower their property tax bill by filing a Property Tax Credit Claim. The final deadline for these claims is October 15.

This assistance is part of the Volunteer Tax Assistance program. Every year SEVCA helps scores of people file their taxes via the

Volunteer Income Tax Assistance program (VITA). The organization also assist Vermont residents with filing their Homestead Declaration, Property Tax Credit Claim, and Renter Rebate Claim. If you are interested in having your taxes prepared, or need assistance with your Homestead Declaration, Property Tax Credit Claim, or Renter Credit, go to www.sevca. org/tax-services or call/

text our direct line to the VITA program at 802-4283032.

As the region’s designated Community Action Agency (CAA), SEVCA (Southeastern Vermont Community Action) works to create opportunities for all people to thrive, build strong, resilient communities, and work toward a more equitable society. For more information visit www.sevca. org or call 800-464-9951.

By Chris Mays Homesteader Magazine

Vermont forester’s book offers hope for healing ecosystems

Vermont forester Ethan Tapper’s “How to Love a Forest: The Bittersweet Work of Tending a Changing World” asks crucial questions in hopes of healing ecosystems.

“There is so much that is wrong and so much worth saving,” he writes in the introduction. “I hope this book will give others the courage to engage in the bittersweet work of tending this changing world, so that others will not have to walk this same path alone.”

Broadleaf Books released the book Sept. 10. Tapper described it as “a reimagining of what forests and other ecosystems are and what it means to care for them.”

Tapper grew up in Saxtons River, obtained a bachelor’s degree in forestry from the University of Vermont and worked as the Chittenden County Forester for the Vermont Department of Forests, Parks and Recreation from 2016 to 2024. He recently left the position to focus on being an author and take on some consulting work as a forester.

An earlier draft of book was deemed too didactic by a publisher. Tapper said he took the words to heart and turned to narrative in a rewrite.

“In that process, I discovered this tone of how to love a forest, which is just like super tender and really personal,” he said. “It’s not just a dry, scientific book. It’s not a cookbook about how we care for forests.”

For six years, Tapper worked on the project each morning for the first hour he was awake. He said he rarely skipped a day of writing.

At the beginning, he wasn’t even aspiring to write a book. He said he was “just recognizing” the need to talk about the subjects he raised in his writing.

About two years into the process, he found himself working on a book. Much of the material is based on his experience caring for his 175-acre land in Bolton, which he named Bear Island.

“There’s a lot of parallels between this process of writing this book and

the work that I’ve done here at Bear Island,” he said. “I’m working on this land which is super degraded, and it’s sort of going to be the work of my life to help it heal.”

If Tapper approached the land from the bigger goal of healing it, he might never get started. Instead, like the book, he focused on one piece at a time. Little bits begin to add up to something significant for both projects, he said.

With Bear Island, Tapper said he realized that just leaving the forest “would not be a kindness.”

“It would be an act of negligence and actually, this forest needed radical action in order to be healthy,” he said, adding that tools are available to heal ecosystems.

At the time of the interview, Tapper had 45 book launch events in the Northeast with plans to hit Canada and other parts of the U.S. later.

In addition to being a forester and author, Tapper said he’s “leaned into being a digital creator.” He’s found a large audience via YouTube, TikTok and Instagram.

While working for the state, greater community outreach had been a big goal for Tapper. He said he held about 300 public events and penned a monthly column that appeared in local newspapers.

His daily writing habit continues and he expects to eventually have another book on forestry. He’s also pursuing a doctorate at UVM in hopes of being a college teacher.

PHOTO SUBMITTED BY BENJI SOLL Ethan Tapper

Water you wading for? It’s stocking season!

By Danielle M. Crosier Homesteader Magazine

BENNINGTON — On a seasonably chilly spring morning, wispy tendrils of advection fog rose over the water-filled raceways and ponds at the Bennington Fish Culture Station – one of just five of the Vermont State fish hatcheries.

The Bennington Fish Culture Station is the only such station in Southern Vermont. The facility is also considered the largest, producing the highest poundage of fish per year. Built in 1916, the facility is listed on the National Register of Historic Sites.

The surface of the water on the outdoor ponds and raceways was as still as glass, as the full grown brook, brown, and rainbow trout – sluggish from the persistent cold – hovered low, waiting for the sun to make its way across the sky, and for the temperatures to warm.

During the late fall, winter, and early spring months, indoors is where you will find most of the activity.

Operating on a continuous annual cycle of rearing, raising, and releasing, the staff of the Bennington Fish Culture Station are perpetually busy. In addition, the young fry that inhabit the long bays of the ten indoor start tanks are abundantly active.

According to Monty Walker, fish culture station

manager for the Bennington Fish Culture Station, the difference in temperature is the key.

Below 39 degrees Fahrenheit, even cold water species like brook, brown, and rainbow trout slow their metabolism. With the ideal temperature being in the 50 degree Fahrenheit range, and the indoor start tanks fluctuating between 44 and 48 degrees Fahrenheit (depending on the season), the indoor fish are never sluggish.

Observing the indoor start tanks, the waters are seething as tiny pellets of food drop to the water’s surface. A voracious appetite is evident, as the surface is cleared in mere minutes. These indoor start tanks house the fry and parr stages of the brook,

brown, and rainbow trout. On the far wall, is the setup for the eyed egg and alevin stages, a precursor to the start tanks, and the location where the eggs are first housed at the facility.

Most stocked trout in the State of Vermont are sterile, so as not to interfere with wild breeding populations. According to Walker, the Salisbury Fish Culture Station in Middlebury is home to the only broodstock population. This is where all mating male and female fish are housed – and this is where approximately 5 million trout eggs are produced annually and shipped to the other fisheries facilities after processing.

At the Salisbury hatchery, the staff use specialized lighting schedules to induce spawning events.

This early spawning provides the other hatcheries with additional time to rear the fish under ideal and controlled conditions – resulting in about an inch and a half of growth per month.

One of the most popular questions the hatchery staff are asked by both tourists and locals is which Vermont waterbodies are stocked, and when. This information is available to the public at: anrweb.vt.gov/FWD/FW/ FishStockingSchedule.aspx

The stocking database is searchable by year, county, town, and species – but it is also able to display completed stockings and scheduled stockings. Within the data, visitors to the site will be able to see the number and type of fish stocked, as well as the exact location of each stocking event.

ALL PHOTOS SUBMITTED BY DANIELLE M. CROSIER

Monty Walker stands in one of the ponds, preparing to load trophy trout into the transport vehicles.

A link separate from the stocking schedule will display the locations and schedules for the trophy fish stocking events – and some of these trophy fish reach lengths of up to 18 inches.

The week that stockings begin in the spring varies for a number of reasons, according to fish culture specialist Dave Yasharian of Vermont Fish and Wildlife, who stated that muddy banks, frozen ponds, and other factors determine the dates of the first stockings in the state. Last year,

stockings began in midMarch.

This year, it is looking like it will be closer to the first or second week of April. Typically, it is ponds that are stocked first, and then rivers, Yasharian noted, with the Bennington Fish Culture Station as usually the first in the state to begin the process.

In 2024 alone, nearly 130,000 brook, brown, and rainbow trout were released in the four counties that comprise Southern Vermont – Bennington County received 28,484

trout across 42 scheduled drops; Windham County received 26,167 trout across 24 scheduled drops; Rutland County received 47,770 trout across 54 scheduled drops; Windsor County received 27,455 trout across 51 scheduled drops. In addition, some cross county stocking events also occurred.

The Bennington Fish Culture Station does not currently stock the Battenkill River. Once one of Vermont’s most iconic trout fishing locations, today the Battenkill is considered to be one of the most challenging for anglers – and, as such, is a high value location for any professional angler.

“We used to stock the Battenkill,” explained Walker, as he viewed the new regulations handbook. “The Battenkill had been stocked up until 1974. And, at that time, the fish had started repopulating themselves – and so, all stocking was stopped. That population decreased in 1991 and, to this day, it has not rebounded. There’s still fish there, but not at the levels there were in the 1970s.”

One of the reasons that Vermont Fish & Wildlife might choose not to stock a stream is that the river system itself does not provide adequate cover to support greater returns on investment. Either extensive flooding, clearing of downed wood, shallow streambeds, high or fluctuating velocity, lack of shade cover, silty or sandy bottoms, or other factors inhibit efforts.

program operates on an annual budget of $4.2 million with a 60 percent Federal match. However, it offers the state a 23:1 return on investment, bringing approximately $39.6 million worth of economic benefit back to the state.

Keeping this in mind, fishery biologists only stock where it makes sense economically. Stocked trout, which are released in the early spring, do not typically survive in rivers over the summer for a variety of factors – the main one being that Vermont’s rivers and streams can become too warm during the summer months, hitting thresholds that exceed upper temperature tolerances. Lakes and ponds are deeper, and are thus more conducive to overwintering populations.

As fish culture is a science, biologists are continually looking for areas of improvement. The introduction of a new genetic strain of rainbow trout – known as the Eagle Lake strain – may prove to be a hardier and more tolerant strain. The final year of monitoring will conclude in 2025.

In addition, fisheries biologists are looking at how to create better habitats for trout in the stream environments.

“The way stocking works is that there are 10 fisheries biologists in the State of Vermont,” explained Walker, “and they go out and determine populations in streams and bodies of water. They do creel surveys and use various methods to determine the fish population. They have a set of guidelines and formulas

Monty Walker, ﬁsh culture station manager for the Bennington Fish Culture Station, explains some of the complex math that goes along with the job – calculations that include the formulas used to determine the stocking analysis, the daily logging of density formulas for the starter tanks, temperature variations, and the displacement calculations for mass when loading the trout onto the transport vehicles. STOCKING, Page 12

The rearing and stocking of fish is expensive and, according to a 2024 study and subsequent legislative report, Vermont’s fish culture

Stocking

from page 11

they use. And, if a body of water meets the criteria to be stocked, they’ll place an order with us – a management request for cultured fish – 18 months ahead of time to stock those fish.”

A large portion of the workload in the Vermont Department of Fish & Wildlife requires an understanding of some high level quantitative and qualitative analysis and math, joked Walker, laughing as he added that these calculations include everything from the formulas used to determine the stocking analysis to the daily logging of density formulas for the starter tanks, temperature variations, or the displacement calculations for mass when loading the trout onto the transport vehicles.

“They place that management request for cultured fish with us, which is basically a big spreadsheet that tells us – hey, these are the types of fish and the sizes of fish that we want stocked, and where,” said Walker, whose team gets to work on receiving the order of eggs, cycling them through to adulthood, preparing the shipments, and stocking the specified locations with the appropriate fish.

For this spring, the staff of the Bennington Fish Culture Station will ensure the stocking of ponds, lakes, reservoirs, rivers, streams, and brooks in the Southern Vermont Region in the towns of Bennington, Dorset, Peru, Pownal, Manchester, Searsberg, Shaftsbury, Stamford, Sunderland, and Woodford in

Monty Walker holds one of the rainbow trout raised at the Bennington Fish Culture Station; it will soon ﬁnd a new home in the Walloomsac River.

Bennington County; Jamaica, Marlboro, Somerset, Stratton, Townshend, Whitingham, Wilmington, and Vernon in Windham County; Benson, Castleton, Chittenden, Clarendon, Danby, Fair Haven, Hubardston, Ira, Killington, Mount Holly, Mount Tabor, Pittsford, Poultney, Proctor, Rutland, Shrewsbury, and Wallingford in Rutland County; and Bethel, Bridgewater, Cavendish, Hartford, Ludlow, Plymouth, Randolph, Reading, Royalton, Sharon, Stockbridge, Weathersfield, Windsor, and Woodstock in Windsor County.

A complete guide to the 2025 Vermont State fishing regulations, along with other resources, is available at: vtfishandwildlife.com/ fish/fishing-regulations

This publication is where a detailed index of rivers and streams, index of lakes and ponds, helpful tips, regulations per site, state initiatives, and licensing information can be found – along with the Vermont Trout Map.

As for the upcoming stocking season, Walker is looking forward to releasing the brook, brown, and rainbow trout that the Bennington hatchery has raised – but he is also approaching it with a bit of trepidation. Spectators be-

lieve that because the fish are tossed unceremoniously into the waterbodies –hitting the surface with a bit of a slap – that the staff are “mishandling the fish, or being rough with them.”

“What I tell people is that myself and my group just spent the last 18 months caring for these from an egg to whatever size they are now,” said Walker, explaining that the fish are less likely to become stunned and go “belly up” if they hit the water pretty hard from a good toss. “The last thing we want to do

is hurt them, or see them die. The shock makes them spread out quicker, swim away.”

It seemed counterintuitive, Walker added, but “they’ll go belly up if you don’t toss them. The rainbow seem to take it worse than the brown trout do –typically, I like to give them a good toss as far out as I can. It seems like the harder they hit the water, the better off they are. I’m not sure why.”

What really inspires Walker, he said, is seeing the joy fishing brings to

youngsters. “When their eyes get wide because they’ve got a fish on, it makes it all worthwhile.”

The Bennington Fish Culture Station is located at 110 Hatchery Road in Bennington.

Visitors are welcome during hours of operation, and are encouraged to explore the visitor’s center and view the rearing efforts of brown, brook, and rainbow trout. According to the Department of Fish & Wildlife, heron, osprey, otter, and mink also enjoy visiting the location.

Monty Walker hands game warden Travis Buttle a net of trophy trout during a stocking event for the Walloomsac River in North Bennington.

An easy beginners guide to prepping your garden

By Danielle M. Crosier Homesteader Magazine

MANCHESTER — “It may still be 35 degrees outside in mid-April,” said Pat Cherry, co-president of the Garden Club of Manchester (GCM) with Nancy Rhodes, “but planning and prepping your garden for spring planting – whenever it arrives – will save you time and make your work more efficient and effective.”

According to Lisa Welp, executive board member of GCM, some tips to help you get ready for your spring gardening goals are to watch the weather, get outside, do research, take inventory, start sketching, and collaborate.

WATCH THE WEATHER

Once the daytime temperatures reach 50 degrees for about a week, Welp suggests, it’ll be time to begin your prep work. This does not mean that it is time to begin planting outdoors. It means that it is time to start prepping for gardening.

In Southern Vermont, it is not really safe to begin planting outdoors until after May 18. This is, according to both Urban Farmer and The Old Farmers Almanac, considered to be the “average last frost date.”

It is often better to err on the side of caution, though, as slight variations can impact fragile plantings. For example, when planting at higher elevations or in spots that are more secluded from the morning sun, it might be bet-

ter to wait an additional week or two. Annuals, for example, are considered especially tender and it is best to wait until the ground is consistently warmer with no risk of frost whatsoever. Some sources even suggest waiting for a full week after Memorial Day.

GET OUTSIDE

Throw on a jacket, said Welp, grab your garden gloves and clippers, and head outside. Begin by removing debris. This might include excessive leaf litter, dead stalks and other leftover organic matter from the last growing season, as well as fallen twigs and branches.

Collect the debris and create a composting system, if you do not already have one. As the leaf litter, stems, twigs

and other organic matter begins to break down, it creates nutrient-rich material that can be used later to enrich the soil or retain soil moisture. Removing debris also creates a tidy and neatly cared-for garden environment.

When removing debris, make sure not to injure new growth. Identify shoots and young growth before making the decision to remove it.

Of course, there are a multitude of other things to consider, says Welp. For example, “To prune or not to prune –that is the $100,000 question. Remember, it’s important to know what plants need to be pruned – and how that specific plant needs to be pruned. They are all different. And, when pruning, leave those plants that bloom in spring

alone. You don’t want to cut off this year’s flowers.”

Prepping the soil is also important, “What kind of soil do you have? It’s important to test it to see what minerals you should add. Soil tests are available online or at your local garden center and, as the ground thaws, you can add compost and mulch.”

Soil pH is particularly important. Soil pH refers to the level of alkalinity or acidity of the soil, and this significantly impacts plant growth because it influences both microbial activity and nutrient availability. Most ornamental flowers and vegetables prefer soils that are slightly acidic or neutral – typically in a pH range of 5.5 to 7.0. If the pH is too low, add lime; if it is too high, add sulfur.

METRO CREATIVE GRAPHICS

DO RESEARCH

For garden newbies and residents new to the area, Welp suggests seeking some generalized assistance, “If you are new to your garden and don’t know what plants you already have in it, you can try to download a plant identification app on your phone. There are a number of free and low cost apps. Aim your phone on the plant, and snap. It should be able to identify each one. Save them to the app and head back inside. Then you can look each plant up to find out information about them.”

Welp suggests recording the location of the plant, its name, and how to care for it.

“The app should also be able to tell you if the plant is a perennial or an annual, whether it is healthy or not, if it needs pruning, or if it needs to be pulled and discarded. Take a run to the library and check out one of the many gardening books available. All area libraries are sure to have a nice selection of gardening books for beginners through master gardeners. Or, buy a book on gardening at the local bookstore or online.”

“Spring is also a good time to divide or transplant perennials – and, again, a good gardening book or a YouTube or Google search will get you the information you need. It also doesn’t hurt to ask a neighbor who you see out in their own garden,” says Welp.

Perhaps most importantly is to begin your seeds inside, and have a good understanding of their growing cycles. In areas throughout the Northeast, there is a shortened growing season – and starting early is the key to success for many species. Also, when transplanting seedlings from indoors to outdoors, be attentive to the planting depth – it should be the same height

outdoors as it was indoors.

“Seeds that take longer to germinate – tomato seeds and many flower seeds – are easily transplanted once you have the small plants started – and, you can check seed packets carefully to see if plants can be transplanted or need to be direct sown. For example, as soon as the ground is thawed, you can direct sow many different peas and beans.”

TAKE INVENTORY

All hobbies have specific tools of the trade, and this is true with gardening as well.

“Take an inventory of the tools you will need for your garden,” advises Welp, “and, if you have what you need, make sure they are clean, sharp, and in good working order. Replace what’s broken. Purchase what you need in advance of the season. You can purchase tools of all price points and quality, online or at your local nursery, gardening center, or big box store. Be sure to look at ratings and read reviews to find the best tools to suit your needs and budget.”

Also helpful are yard and estate sales, and Facebook Marketplace – great ways to stock-up on affordable gardening tools and accessories – and, said Welp, “You might get some advice along the way.”

Also needed in your inventory are the plants that you would like to have in your garden.

START SKETCHING

“It may be helpful to sketch or map out your garden and jot down plant locations in a notebook or gardening journal – or, take pictures. Label them [in some way] with where the plants are, and their names. Also, a little research goes a long way.

Use YouTube for tutorials –there’s tons of information on gardening,” explains Welp. “And, if you are starting a new garden, this is the time to draw up plans so you know exactly what plants or shrubs you will soon be purchasing.”

Things to consider include location – most flowers, for example will require at least 6 hours of sunlight per day; accessibility – making certain that the layout is favorable for watering and maintenance access; and the climate – make certain that you are consulting hardiness zone information from a resource like the USDA, as it will provide extensive data on what will thrive in particular locations, when to start or transplant, and more.

Welp also advised planting flowers with differing bloom times to create a continuously beautiful display, and to consider companion planting when sketching out a garden plan. Choosing the plants for each area of the garden is equally as important as every other step, as some plants have specific needs in common with others – and might possibly do well together.

Companion planting involves the purposeful planting of plant species alongside one another to create a beneficial relationship of some sort. For example, cucumbers do well with nasturtiums as the nasturtiums attract the aphids away from the cucumbers. Additionally, marigolds do well when in beds with vegetables, as they deter pest species. Herbs like parsley, basil, and oregano improve the flavor of peppers. Besides pest control, building an understanding of companion planting can help with soil heath, nutrient enhancement, and pollination.

Other things to consider with regards to planning

your garden include learning how to space out plants correctly, ensuring that there is adequate drainage to prevent root rot, researching the watering needs of the plants in each location of the garden, building a plan to monitor for pests and diseases, and learning about how and when to fertilize.

COLLABORATE

Joining online groups – local, regional, and more – will be immensely helpful, advises Cherry, “Join your local garden club. The Garden Club of Manchester has more than 90 members, many of whom are master gardeners and experts in growing local flowers, veggies, and more. Attend a meeting – you’ll learn a lot, get tips, and make friends.”

There are also garden clubs in Arlington and Bennington, and some individuals are members of multiple groups.

Cherry suggests making plans to attend a local garden club’s spring plant sale, and bringing your questions with you, “The Garden Club of Manchester’s is on May 17 at Southern Vermont Arts Center. These types of events have a large selection of starter plants, gently used garden tools, gardening accessories, and – of course – answers. And, be sure to follow the Garden Club of Manchester’s Facebook page for information about upcoming events and other helpful information,” said Cherry.

“This has been a difficult spring to navigate in terms of when to begin prepping your garden, with crazy weather patterns changing daily,” added Welp. “Hopefully, the next week or two will transition us into spring to cleanup and prune, but remember, you can sow your seeds indoors now.”

Henry Homeyer | Notes from the Garden:

Creating a better environment for us, and our animal friends

By Henry Homeyer Homesteader Correspondent

There is much gloom and doom spread in the news and on social media. Many people believe that our ecosystem is irreparable – climate change is bringing death and destruction to many of the animals that we share the earth with. But some gardeners believe that although the climate is changing, they can still plant many species of plants that will sustain our birds, butterflies, bees, moths and all the little animals that we share our space with. I am one of those optimistic ones.

If you want to help save our ecosystem, here are some suggestions:

Start by reducing the size of your lawn. Yes, keep space for badminton and a grill, if you like. But think of the lawn as an area rug, not wall-to-wall carpeting. Most Americans inherited a large lawn when they bought their house. I’ve read that American lawns cover an area as large as New England. We can all do with less. Perhaps you can develop a five-year plan to reduce the lawn and add trees, shrubs and perennials.

This is not a quick fix, nor an inexpensive one. But you need not plant large trees. In fact, small trees are less shocked at transplant time and take off and grow like crazy, while bigger trees often stall and sulk. Choose your trees wisely: plant trees and shrubs that are native to New England, not Japan or China. Why? Native trees co-evolved with our pollinators. Bees, butterflies and moths look for plants that they instinctively recognize.

Plants that will benefit them. We all know that Monarchs rely on milkweed, but most pollinators have similar habits – they eat what their ancestors ate.

According to PhD entomologist Doug Tallamy, author of “Nature’s Best Hope: A New Approach to Conservation That Starts in Your Yard,” oaks are the best trees to plant to support pollinators and birds. They are followed by other keystone trees: willows, birches, poplar and elm. Most maples, ash and beech are good, too.

You may wonder why native trees are so important. Dr. Tallamy explains in his book that all baby birds are fed caterpillars- even young hummingbirds. Using a game camera, he determined that a nest of chickadees needs between 6,000 and 9,000 caterpillars between hatching and fledging. Amazing! We don’t often see those caterpillars or the feeding they do on our trees, but they are there if we have native plants.

Birds need food, water, safe places for nesting and places to stay out of the wind in winter. A well-thought-out garden can address all those needs. Yes, it is nice to offer seeds in feeders in winter, but birds need insects or seeds to eat all year. Native trees and shrubs can help significantly, particularly if all your neighbors plant well, too.

Plant trees in clumps –three, five or seven in a small grove. This way, their roots will mingle, and if a storm with ferocious rain and high winds comes along, they will be much less likely to get blown over.

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY HENRY HOMEYER

Common milkweed ﬂowers are used by many insect, not just Monarch butterﬂies. The plants also spread by root.

Norway maple ‘Crimson King’ is pretty, but invasive. Seedlings are not usually purple-leafed.

Instead of surrounding your new trees with lawn, think about planting native perennials, wildflowers or ground covers under them. When a caterpillar is ready to pupate and transform itself into a moth or butterfly, it will drop off the tree it has been feeding on. On a lawn compacted by heavy riding mowers, it will probably not survive. They need leaves to hide under or soft earth they can burrow into. Autumn leaves make a great mulch, either chopped or whole.

As part of your planting efforts, remove all invasives. All New England states have laws naming the invasives to your state. These include, but are not limited to, burning bush, barberry, Norway maple, oriental bittersweet, autumn olive, buckthorn, privet, honeysuckle and multiflora rose. Go online and educate yourself as to what these plants look like. Some can be dug out, but older

specimens can be difficult to remove.

Apparently, 82 percent of Americans live in cities or large towns. But city dwellers can make a difference, too. In Tallamy’s book, he writes about a woman in Chicago who has just a tenth of an acre yard right next to O’Hare airport. Over time, she planted 60 species of native plants in her yard – and over time, she identified 103 species of birds that visited her yard. Having water available, especially if it bubbles, is good. It also attracts migrating birds. Native plants provide food for migrating birds, too – insects and seeds that they need for their long flight.

Instead of just lawn, build rooms using native trees and shrubs where you and your family can relax – and observe nature. No, you will not see cougars in your garden, but seeing monarchs and bluebirds can give great

joy. Build natural areas using 90 percent natives and start learning the names of the creatures that come.

Teach your grandchildren to watch nature with you, start them young to be love the outdoors – and gardening. My grandfather started me gardening when I was just

a little tyke, and now, some 75 years later, I get great joy from my garden every day of the year.

Henry lives and gardens in Cornish, N.H. Send questions to him at PO Box 364, Cornish Flat, NH 03746 or by email at henry.homeyer@comcast.net.

PHOTO SUBMITTED BY HENRY HOMEYER

Fall leaves are used here under an oak leafed hydrangea and other native plants.

Guilford hydropower pioneer taps into streams and brooks for free energy with no dams

By Alexander Belogour Homesteader Magazine

GUILFORD — Vermont State officials have an energy problem. In 2011, the state developed its Comprehensive Energy Plan with the goal of obtaining 90 percent of the state’s energy needs from renewable sources by 2050. It’s a seemingly daunting task, but Guilford resident and hydroelectric pioneer Roman Nemet thinks he knows how to do it.

Nemet has long been interested in the capabilities of hydropower, not in the traditional, dam-the-Connecticut River sense, but in a smaller localized approach that would work in Vermont’s many smaller streams, brooks and rivers.

Recently, Gov. Phil Scott vetoed Act 179 — a bill that would require most utility companies, including Green Mountain Power, to reach 100 percent renewable power by 2030. Despite the veto, legislators in Montpelier have overridden the Governor’s decision, and the pressure for renewable sources has not decreased. Nemet says his hydro turbines are the answer to the state’s problem.

“Most of our electricity comes from Quebec Hydro in Canada using long haul cables,” Nemet says. “With our small micro-hydro operation, we are on course to take some of the burden off the state’s electricity purchase.”

Nemet says his hydropower works on a smaller, localized scale and does not require

the damming of large water channels like the Vernon and Bellows Falls dams.

The hydro-turbines he installs utilize a run-of-river approach, where water is temporarily diverted and, using the natural flow of a river, spins a turbine generating electricity.

“You can either directly place the turbine in the river, or you can create a short bypass. This involves digging a short trench in the side of the river, diverting the water through a small arch outside the main riverbed, and then placing the turbine to harness the water’s energy before it flows back into the river,” said Nemet, “You don’t need to dam.”

Nemet says there are four main categories of hydropower that correlate with size. Regular hydro (like the Vernon and Bellows Falls dams), small hydro (1MW to 10MW), micro-hydro — which generates up to 100KW to 1MW, and residential “pico” sizes — able to power a house at five to 15 kilowatts.

Nemet says his company, River Roar Energy, operates within the miro and residential sizes. He says his system also appears as the most optimal solution for local energy harvesting and eliminating local power outages.

For his own personal house in Guilford, Nemet is planning to test the capabilities of the residential-size turbine this fall. The brook isn’t too wide, maybe just five or so feet wide and a foot deep, but Nemet thinks it’s just enough

to give him free electricity and lower his bill drastically. The turbines are also modular and can be used in series.

“It’s not enough to run a big turbine, but with one tiny turbine, I can get up to oneand-a-half kilowatts. The turbines operate by spinning water and pushing it down like a vortex. That’s what powers the smaller models, and they work really well in our landscape. It’s free energy. The water is always running.”

At his house, Nemet plans

to redirect water to a pipe. At the end of the pipe, around 20 feet away, is a flume, a type of trough. He will install a turbine at the end of the apparatus to create elevation so the water can flow downward using kinetic energy to spin the turbine.

In Rutland, Nemet said he is taking up a micro-turbine project in Otter Creek, which will be used to power the Wilk Paving Asphalt Plant. He said he gets his larger gravitational vortex turbines

ALL PHOTOS BY KRISTOPHER RADDER — HOMESTEADER MAGAZINE

Roman Nemet of Guilford, installs a turbine in a brook by his house to produce clean energy.

from Belgium and his smaller residential units from New Zealand. His water wheel generators are made in Texas.

PERMITTING PROBLEMS

Despite the success he says the project will have in lowering the company’s dependence on fossil fuels and larger dams in Canada and the state, Nemet says he is running into permitting problems, making the project almost unaffordable.

According to state laws regarding the regulation of streams and brooks, Nemet would need a permit from the state and from the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission (FERC) to build anything on or near the river, creek or brook.

“But the water itself, and the actual water bed, is controlled by the government. FERC has too many rules and regulations. Some are impossible to find until FERC responds and rejects your application. It is a very hard system to navigate. Additionally, there are other agencies involved in this matter. One big one is the Agency for Natural Resources. They have made us relocate clams and bats and whatever animals are in the vicinity of the turbine, and we need to pay the research and relocating fees.”

Nemet has also had problems with the Division for

“There is another agency that focuses on finding if any historical sites are in the river area, potentially indicating past native or historical settlements, pre or post-contract. Suppose you are near one. You need to investigate and dig into the dirt and find these artifacts. They might be nothing, but the sites need to be dug just to prevent potentially destroying something; we need to dig and find out if there is anything or nothing, and that costs money, too. I understand the sentiment, but it is very costly.” said Nemet.

Nemet also needed to pay for the Vermont Fish and Wildlife Department to conduct a search and examine the species of fish and animals living in the brook. To find out if he would be impacting the river ecosystem, Nemet says he would need to pay an agent $50 to $100 an hour over two days to conduct an environmental report. For the 900-square-foot Otter Creek project space, Nemet says he paid federal and state agencies over $25,000 and needed to downsize the turbine’s output.

“Our installations, in terms of environmental impact, are almost non-intrusive. We are talking about a 30-foot by 30foot space. This makes the

installation almost prohibitively expensive as we need to pay the research and relocating and accommodation costs.”

The output of the hydro turbine along Otter Creek would be 100 kilowatts. Nemet said the Wilk Paving Asphalt Plant would earn a return on the investment within seven years.

The turbine and circular water basin spiral water to create a vortex that generates power. Nemet says they are currently being installed for the concrete and asphalt plant and will generate all of the plant’s electricity.

Nemet says that multiple turbines would be able to run several residential houses when used in series.

“When we get up to 300 kilowatts, you can run a community of maybe even 300 to 400 households,” said Nemet.

Finding an outlet to successfully implement his hydropower has been a challenge. Nemet said the state has a small agency, the Small Hydropower Assistance Program, which helps navigate agencies and regulations for his project, but the group is relatively small and does not have the lobbying power to help people like himself make the installation process easier.

Anne Margolis, assistant director of Vermont’s Reg-

ulated Utility Planning Division, said the Assistance program ended several years ago. Margolis said that in Vermont, if hydro projects are grid-connected they are likely to require an application to the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission and that even smaller projects would need to apply for a license exemption, which she says is “still a type of permit.”

Nemet says these challenges are not discouraging him and that they are simply part of the process. However, with the support of the state, he says eco-friendly power — in accordance with the 2030 mandate — would be an achievable reality.

Residential sizes and units are straightforward when it comes to permitting in smaller creeks and brooks, but the challenges lay in acquiring larger commercial permits. Nevertheless, he says his mission is one that is founded on sustainability and will ultimately help people and the environment.

Nemet says he has had around 20 requests from people looking to tap into hydropower in the small streams on their properties since his company’s establishment. He is currently talking with clients in Readsboro, Wilmington, Whitingham, South Burlington, and Halifax.

Historic Preservation.

Boost your outdoor enjoyment by managing ticks and mosquitoes

By Melinda Myers Homesteader Magazine

Summer is synonymous with fun outdoor activities like barbeques, lawn games, hikes, and gardening. But it can also mean unwanted pests like mosquitoes and ticks. Employing a few preventative strategies can help minimize the annoyance and reduce the risk of tick- and mosquito-borne diseases.

Start by creating a landscape that is less inviting to mosquitoes and ticks. Reduce mosquitoes’ daytime resting spaces by keeping your garden weeded. Removing weeds and managing neglected garden spaces will make your landscape less inviting to these pests.

Evaluate drainage patterns in your landscape. Improve drainage by amending the soil in garden beds with organic matter. Consider adding a rain garden to capture water run-off from the roof and hard surfaces, putting it to

work in a garden filled with beautiful flowers for you and pollinators to enjoy. Water collected in these gardens drains within 24 to 36 hours and doesn’t provide a breeding ground for mosquitoes.

Drain water from toys, buckets or any object that can hold water and serve as a breeding ground for mosquitoes. Clear debris from gutters so the water flows freely through the gutter and out the downspout.

Change the water in birdbaths at least once a week. Make it part of your routine whenever you water container gardens. Or you can install a small pump to keep the water moving, which prevents mosquito breeding.

Toss a Mosquito Dunk ( SummitResponsibleSolutions.com) in birdbaths, rain barrels and water features. This certified organic insecticide only kills the larvae of mosquitoes, black flies, and fungus gnats. It

Time spent outdoors doesn’t have to be ruined by ticks and mosquitoes.

won’t harm bees, butterflies, birds, pets and people. Help reduce the tick population in your landscape by keeping the grass mowed and removing brush, groundcovers, firewood piles, and bird feeders near your home or where your family frequents. Consider creating a tick-safe area where your family frequents, and limit time spent in tick-infested areas. Widen pathways, properly prune trees to increase light, exclude deer, and discourage rodents to reduce the risk of exposure. Place children’s swing sets away from the woods and cover the soil with wood-

chip mulch. Eliminate invasive barberry, honeysuckle, and buckthorn that create a tick-friendly habitat.

Wear light-colored clothing to more easily spot ticks before they move onto your skin. Loose fitting, light-colored clothing is also less attractive to mosquitoes. Wear long pants and tuck them into socks, and tuck your shirt into your pants. Ticks often gain access through pant legs or shirttails and crawl up, looking for a place to settle in and feed.

Consider spraying your clothing with an insecticide labeled for repelling and

killing ticks and mosquitoes. Select an insecticide spray like Summit® Green Armor Insect Repellent labeled for use on clothing. Read and follow label directions and let your clothing dry before wearing it.

Remove and check your clothing for ticks anytime you have been outdoors. Showering within two hours of spending time outdoors can greatly reduce your risk of Lyme and possibly other tick-borne diseases. Always conduct a tick check, paying special attention to your underarms, belly button, in and around your ears, hair, behind your knees, and around your waist.

Keep mosquitoes away when hosting a party, gardening, or relaxing outdoors. Use a fan to create a gentle breeze that keeps weak-flying mosquitoes away from you and your guests. Some gardeners

even take a small fan into the garden while weeding.

Citronella oil and scented candles have some mosquito-repelling properties. Scatter the candles in outdoor spaces within a few feet where family and friends gather for some short-term relief.

A combination of these strategies will help minimize your exposure to these biting insects so you can better enjoy the outdoors this summer.

BulkandBaggedMulch: PremiumBarkMulch,BlackMulch, NatureBlendMulch,MushroomCompost

BaggedOnlyMulch: PineBarkNuggets,RedMulch,Cedar Mulch,PineStraw

BulkandBaggedSoils: GardenSoil,PremiumTopsoil, RegularScreenedTopsoil

BaggedCompostandSoil: Manure,SoilConditioner, PottingSoil,PeatMoss,CoastofMaine

BulkGravels: 3/8”,1/2”,3/4”,ShoulderStone,Item4,Sand, RiverStone1”and2”,VTMountainGravel

Plants-HangingBaskets: BeddingPlants,VegetablePlants, Perennials,BerryPlants,Roses,Shrubs,Trees,FruitTrees

SeedandPlantCareItems: Gardenseedpackets,Bulbs,Grass Seed,Fertilizer,Pots,CoastofMaineSoilMixes,GardenTools,Tree Care

LawnandGarden: HomemadeIron,Chimes,Grills,WaterFeatures Stone(Palletized): SteppingStones,WallStone,Flagstone, GraniteCobbles,LandscapeSteps

ManufacturedHardscape: (forPatiosandWalls),Paving Stones,RetainingWallBlocks,HardscapingSupplies

Rachael

Morin | Owner of Hawks Hollow Homestead & the largest established patch in Southern Vermont

Spring’s ephemeral ethics: foraging with respect

Early spring gets me fired up. MidMarch to early April is my superbowlbetween collecting worms for trout fishing, the piglets arriving, a greenhouse full of seed starts, the kids squealing and covered from head to toe as they make mud pies; spring is huge on any homestead. The warm winds start to come in and the ground actively begins thawing; electricity and promise are so pungent in the air. It’s enough to make my family smile so wide. Fiddleheads, hosta shoots, trout, ramps, fresh microgreens. Just the thought of that first real spring supper has my mouth watering all year in anticipation. Despite this rewarding and delicious time, something does give me pause.

Looking out at the dark morning through the bedroom window, I see flashlights– those persistent

trespassers are back in the patch. It happens every year without fail. I let the dog out so she can get a head start, and I pull my muck boots on only to head out the door to haze them off. In the moments after, as the sun breaks over the top of my mountain, I’m looking at the amount of holes they didn’t even bother to fill back in and the sheer violation of it makes my cheeks flush with heat and my heart sink a little. This is a story less about the recipe and more about the tragedy behind unethical foraging. Best practice when foraging anything? Get permission and have conviction. I speak from experience: nothing makes me angrier than an entitled stranger raiding my patch. I’ve been trusted as a steward of this place. Throughout ramp season, I spend whole days hanging out in the hammock reading, just

to be at the ready to intimidate the constant stream of trespassers with my dog, because it’s my job to protect this delicate ecosystem here in the hollow. Many folks have permission to forage in my patch, and they know to do so sustainably. Its tender slopeside biome was here long before me and will be here long after if I have anything to say about it.

Ramps, or wild leeks, (Allium tricoccum) are native to the hardwood forests of North America and are usually found within a close proximity to boggy or natural waterways. They are spring ephemerals which means they are among the first wild plants to submerge in early spring before the canopy blocks out sunlight to the forest floor below. They resemble lilyof-the-valley (a deadly look alike) from afar but have a longer, smoother, broader

structure to them, accompanied with a distinct garlicky onion smell when you step on or crush them. Unlike lily-of-the-valley, they have a minimum of two leaves per stalk (sometimes as many as four or five), have a shimmery light green color, and a white bulb. The stalks on allium tricoccum can be white or a reddish purple.

It’s important to spread out between selections and only pick a singular leaf from plants that have three or more leaves. When harvesting in the dark and with haste, you cannot possibly be doing so with morality. This “sacred” mentality I have developed came after the first three springs of those cowards coming in the cover of night. They don’t respect it, so I must, not that it’s a chore- anyone can feel the palpable ancient wisdom and biological cooperation in the

PHOTO SUBMITTED BY KATE ZIEGLER

Hawks Hollow Patch

Spring 2025

ground here on this mountain. It’s just not a place one should violate. I once came across a five-leaf ramp and admired it for a while. I didn’t pick from it because I did not feel I was supposed to. These plants are the elders of their patch and after centuries of being here, they should remain in their own right and allow for regenerative growth. Occasionally, due to the nature of a boggy mud season along the slick bedrock slope, a bulb will come out while I’m picking. Personally speaking, if the bulb’s skin does not come off when that happens, I gingerly tuck it back in. If the skin does come off, I take it as the gift intended for me. My patch is large and is always going to be because I never intentionally pull whole bulbs. This is because ramps take 5- 7 years to develop into mature producers and their seeds take over a year to germinate. If you’re earth worthy and you harvest sustainably, here’s a recipe you’ll notice only has a small basket full of ingredients.

• 35 single sustainably foraged leaves or about 2 cups

• Garlic harvested from the garden that spring, a few cloves is ﬁne

• More than a dash of earthly respect

• ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

• Some of the purest intentions

• Pecorino romano cheese to taste

• ½ cup of any seed/nut, (optional)

(when I add a seed component, I use sunflower seeds because those are a sustainable option and I can grow them here on the homestead)

Thoroughly rinse your foraged leaves. I use the mountain stream near my patch to wash off most of the dirt before bringing them inside. It just feels right to use the water that nourished them to give them a good bath. Remember, you pick it, you use it. Head to the garden and grab your fresh spring garlic. Wholesome, local ingredients make this pesto a beautiful addition to your pastas and focaccias

Your Guide to

all year. Bring your garlic and the ramps inside. Look over your harvest one more time, thanking each leaf for nourishing you as you put everything into a blender, and hit the button. Smooth consistency, add or subtract ingredients to fit your needs. You can pour into a well greased muffin tin or ice cube tray and freeze. I do only two rounds of this a season- even with a patch as large as Hawks Hollowsbeing very careful to rotate where I pick from within the patch every year.

The beginning of the end with my foraging of fiddleheads was when my spots were picked so mercilessly clean by others that they didn’t come back well enough to be foraged. Then- a couple years agothe floods of July 2021 contaminated a vast majority of the riverbeds with heavily polluted silt, causing a large setback in the fiddleheads regenerative ability and gave way to apprehen-

sion with the safety of what I was preparing to pick and eat. Very unfortunate indeed. I used to put the previously discussed volunteer ramp bulbs, the fiddleheads and the fresh hosta shoots (those grow in the yard, and they are the most resilient plant a gardener comes to know, I think they are impossible to kill!) all in the frying pan with salt and a smidge of pork lard as a side for the pan fried brook trout. It was and still is my singular most favorite meal all year, and one that didn’t come from the grocery store at that.

I hope this serves as a lesson for those eager to learn and feed this next generation a variety of ethically sourced and foraged food. This is also a stern, if not whole heartedly menacing message to those who don’t care: practice sustainable foraging, take intentional care or you’ll be someone who participated in wiping a local species out.

PHOTO SUBMITTED BY KATE ZIEGLER

A trillium among wild leeks

PHOTO SUBMITTED BY RACHAEL MORIN

Rachael’s forage basket

The wonder of herbs

By Gertrude B. Foster Homesteader Magazine

FALLS VILLAGE, CT —

Herbs make a garden useful. fragrant, formal, historic, drought-resistant, less troubled with insects and amusing. A little culinary herb garden to aid the cook and hostess is what comes to mind when one thinks of herbs as useful. It provides a continuous harvest of seasonings and material for bouquets, both culinary and decorative The contents of fresh herb-flavored dishes will be as intriguing to the palate as the hidden meaning of a Tussie Mussie, or tiny nosegay of sweet marjoram (joy of the mountain), rosemary (for remembrance), pink thyme blossoms (for valor) and purple-leaved basil (for love), all surrounded by a leafy frill of scented-geranium foliage conveying gaiety to the person to whom it is presented.

Emerald curly parsley was used to wreathe the brow of the victor in sports contests in Roman days as Laurus Nobilis or bay leaves crowned conquerors and poets. The flat-leaved Italian parsley adds vitamins and minerals to the diet. It is richer in vitamin C and A than any of the citrus fruits. Salad burnet gives a cucumber zest to salads without the presence of cucumbers There are many more examples of the way in which useful herbs become interesting when you know their history of service to man.

The way herbs make a garden can become a point of view. The gardener develops an awareness that in the perennial border, the rock

Decorative, fragrant herbs are ‘plants with a purpose’ that are useful as condiments, medicine, tonics and insect deterrents. Every serious garden should have some.

garden, the kitchen vegetable patch are plants with a purpose. Many have been important to people in some part of the work, or in some previous time.

We grubbed out daylilies from places where we wanted to plant herbs near our 18th-century house. When a Chinese botanist at the Arnold Arboretum wrote two articles for The Herb Grower Magazine on the edible qualities and medicinal history of the same species in her homeland, we stopped fighting the march of Hemerocallis fulva where little else would grow. Daylilies can be added to salads and soups and the roots could be used as a home remedy.

One soon discovers after starting down the fragrant path of herb study that there

are not only herbs for every garden, but herbs in every garden The question, “ls that an herb?” ceases to be all-important. In nearly 40 years of growing fragrant and useful plants, we have seen many plants previously classed as flowers become highly regarded for their medicinal or insecticidal properties.

The most useful aspect of seasoning herbs such as dill, fennel, oregano, lovage, parsley, savory, thyme, rosemary and sage is their help in controlling the food budget. As convenience foods have moved up from using 30 percent of the shopping dollar to 70 percent, a knowledge of herbs is more vital than ever.

Herbs make a garden fragrant and therein lies much of their power. Odors make

an indelible impression upon memory. Gardening among sweet herbs is a joyous experience. As John Gerard said, in his letter in The Herball (1597): “Talke of perfect happiness or pleasure, and what place was so fit for that as the garden place where Adam was set to be the Herbalist ...?”

The minute one’s interest ranges beyond the 50 or so culinary herbs that may be grown in northern gardens, the romance of the medicinal plants, which are fragrant, begins to seep into one’s consciousness. As William Coles, the author of “The Art of Simpling” (1657) wrote:

“What a pleasant thing it is for Man (whom the ignorant think to be alone) to have plants speaking Greek and Latin to him, putting

PHOTO BY ANNIE-SPRATT, UNSPLASH

Spring 2025

him in mind of Stories, which otherwise he would never think of . . . with what rare colors and sweet odors do the Flourishing Fields and Gardens entertain the senses? The usefulness of it no judicious man can deny, unless he would also deny the virtues of herbs, which experience itself doth daily approve. How often do we see not only men’s bodies but even the minds of those that are distracted, to be cured by them?”

Some herbs do not pervade the air with sweet perfumes which can prove cloying if too strong. Southernwood, winter savory, rose geranium and even lemon verbena reveal their essential oils mainly when pressed by the touch of the hand. Basils do give off warm dove-like aromas when the sun is on them. Strangely that is the time to water them and sweet mar-

joram, rather than in the late afternoon as is specified usually for garden sprinkling. (Another bit of wisdom from 17th-century gardeners is to water sweet marjoram and sweet basil with moisture the same temperature as the air, rather than hosing them with chill well-water.)

The subtle breath of herbs can be more exciting than the perfume of peonies, or freesias, or hyacinths, which fade with the passing of the flowers. Rosemary’s piney scent can be summoned any time one runs a hand over the needle-like leaves. In fact, if you are stripping the leaves from the stems of rosemary, sage or thyme, to dry them quickly, the rich oils will leave both fragrance and color on one’s hands. Clary sage blossoms have a special odor that has some uncomplimentary names. In Italy it is called a term that means “smells like

- Your Guide to Rugged

sweat” but the oil from them is used in the perfume industry to tone down the raw quality of artificial flower perfumes. Hummingbirds arc greatly attracted to the long dowering spikes of blue and white clary sage. Goldfinches wait until the seeds are ripening on the biennial plant to nip in and snip out the four nutlets of seeds in each flower.

Certain plants attract animals by their odors. Catnip is a case in point but the oil of the herb will turn away ants and beetles. Garlic oil contains substances that kill germs and mosquito larvae. Beekeepers ‘line” wild bees with a bait containing oil of anise. Mint planted around a building, it is said in the South, will keep snakes from crawling under it. It is difficult to separate the usefulness of herbs from their fragrance.

A garden of herbs may be as small as a window box planted with sweet marjoram, parsley, dwarf sage, French thyme, seedling dill and prostrate rosemary. This could be placed on a patio or roof-top.

Container-grown plants need feeding through the summer. If herbs like chives are to be cut frequently they should be trimmed from around the sides of the clump, not sheared off all at once. Soluble plant food one-quarter strength of that given on the package will provide the lean diet that keeps herbs more aromatic and flavorful.

Herbs make a formal garden if they are used to work out intricate patterns of a “knot garden” where evergreen germander, Santolina and box may be woven into ribbons and bows.

Be a weather watching gardener

by Melinda Myers Homesteader Magazine

Each gardening season seems to offer new growing challenges. Our gardens are exposed to more drastic and variable weather with changing weather patterns. Floods, droughts, wind, temperature extremes, and unseasonable weather episodes can have immediate and long-term impacts on our plants.

Monitoring and noting these occurrences will help you diagnose immediate and future plant and garden problems. It also reminds us to adjust plant maintenance when these stressors occur and watch for potential insect, disease, and plant decline that may appear in the future.

Create your own weather station with a rain gauge, snow gauge, and high-low thermometer. These gauges monitor the conditions in your backyard as opposed to those reported for nearby locations. Having information from your yard allows you to make any needed adjustments to watering and care to help your plants thrive.

Record significant weather extremes that can negatively impact plant health and longevity. Check with local nature centers, botanical gardens, and extension services for gardening calendars. Many include information on significant weather events in your area. You can then add your observations for future reference. Refer to this information as needed in the future to help diagnose plant problems that may result from these extremes.

Large trees and other established plantings are often overlooked when

weather extremes occur. Extended dry periods, temperature extremes, and flooding can stress and weaken these plants making them more susceptible to insect pests, diseases, and decline in the coming years.

Always select plants suited to the growing conditions and start watching for those that appear to be more tolerant of extremes. Visit local public gardens and consult with your University Extension specialists and other plant experts when selecting new plants for your gardens.

Adapt your landscape maintenance and design to reduce the negative impact of flooding, drought, and temperature extremes. Protect plant roots from temperature extremes with a layer of organic mulch. Incorporate organic matter into the soil to improve drainage and increase the water-holding ability of fast-draining soils. Cover the soil with plants and mulch to help protect the soil from compaction and erosion during heavy downpours. Healthy soil is the key to growing plants that are better able to tolerate environmental stresses.

Manage water that falls on your property. Check with your local municipality for any restrictions or support for these efforts. Create rain gardens to capture, clean and direct rainfall to groundwater to help manage water where it falls. These also support pollinators and provide added beauty to your landscape. Enlist the help of rain barrels, if permitted, to capture rainwater to use on ornamental plantings and containers when needed.

Take this interest one step further and volunteer to be

part of a network of volunteer weather watchers. The Community Collaborative Rain, Hail and Snow Network (CoCoRaHS) is a non-profit community-based network of volunteers that provides daily measurements of rain, hail, and snow that fall in their backyards.

The goal of the Network is to provide more localized weather information to scientists, researchers, resource managers, decision makers and more. The data is used for natural resource, educational and research applications.

Weather watching is a great project for the family

or classroom. It helps boost gardening success while increasing our awareness and knowledge of what’s happening around us.

PHOTO COURTESY OF MELINDAMYERS.COM

Rain barrels can help manage the water on your property and provide water to use in your gardens.