NEAR+FAR Volume IV: Ibiza, Casablanca, Bangkok, Vienna, London, Portugal
VOLUME IV
BRINGING THE WORLD TO THE MIDDLE EAST, AND THE MIDDLE EAST TO THE WORLD
AN IBIZA ICON, REIMAGINED / ATHENS IN FULL HEAT /
NEW LOOK AT CASABLANCA / STILLNESS IN BANGKOK
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Dream destinations, insider tips, where to stay, what to pack, where to eat and more for the curious traveller with impeccable taste
POSITANO, ITALY, BY YIANNI MATHIOUDAKIS
It’s been summer for what feels like a year...
... in the GCC. I can’t remember what it feels like to be cold. Not just chilly, but properly cold – the sort of air that hits you in the lungs. Half the country seems to have escaped, and if you haven’t yet, this issue is full of inspiration for a strategic late-summer getaway.
This edition of Near+Far is our ode to mid-season wanderings – the kind of trips where the weather’s still warm but the crowds have thinned and the rosé starts to taste like routine. From private estates in Portugal’s wild and windswept Algarve to ofseason Bangkok, where I spent three seductive days in Aman Nai Lert Bangkok’s quietly cinematic world, hiding from monsoon skies and dipping in and out of dimly lit corridors like an extra in In the Mood for Love. We visit Royal Portfolio’s maximalist hideaway in South Africa’s Winelands, share a secret lair on an island of Cannes, and explore Morocco in three acts – from a Range-Rover arrival in Marrakech to cocktail bars in old world, art deco, Casablanca.
Our two covers this issue tell their own stories: Destino Five Ibiza, where Dubai’s FIVE Holdings has given one of the island’s most iconic hotel a high-shine, high-energy reboot. And Casablanca, captured through a new lens as we trace Morocco’s most misunderstood city – all art deco elegance and salty Atlantic charm. Whether you’re browsing from a lounger in Europe or stuck inside with the AC blasting, I hope these pages ofer the kind of escape you didn’t know you needed.
Enjoy the issue.
Isabella Craddock, Founder + Editor
On the cover
Destino Five Ibiza, Ibiza, Spain: Ibiza’s iconic Pacha-owned hotel reopens as Destino Five Ibiza – a fve-star revival led by Dubai-based FIVE Holdings. The legendary property above Talamanca Bay fuses Balearic spirit with bold design, billowing curtains and big-name DJs. This is a reinvention rooted in history – and ready for high summer. Shot by Isabella Craddock, summer 2025.
The largest mosque in Africa, Hassan II Mosque sits dramatically over the Atlantic with a 210-metre minaret and titanium doors. Built by over 6,000 artisans, it blends tradition with scale – its roof opens to the sky. The spiritual heart of Casablanca, and one of Morocco’s greatest architectural feats. Shot by Ahmed/ @mutecevviil.
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Xinara House on the low-key Cyclades island of Tinos, one of Greece’s most unique private rentals. @xinarahouse
S low Living
in the City
This summer, discover the quieter side of Dubai. From experimental dining to designdriven exhibitions, slow art to digital immersion, the city is flled with thoughtful, cultural experiences for those who stay behind – and know where to look
A SLOWER SIDE TO LIFE IN DUBAI THIS SEASON
As temperatures rise and sidewalks shimmer, Dubai’s pulse doesn’t slow – it shifts. Gone are the frantic brunches and beach days, replaced with a quieter rhythm, rich in art, creativity and considered indulgence. This is the Dubai you don’t often see: subtle, smart, and steeped in stories. A summer of slow living, cool interiors and surprising inspiration.
A good place to begin? A Normal Day, a neighbourhood bistro in Al Wasl that is anything but. Created by a team of locally raised creatives and food lovers, it feels like stepping into someone’s well-curated home – bookshelves and butter dishes, vintage crockery and unfltered charm. Its philosophy? Fine food without the fuss. All-day breakfasts feature the now-iconic Avo & Mango Toast (with torched avo and Tajín), while lunch and dinner move into deeper territory – think wagyu striploin with black garlic, and honey cookies topped with labneh cream. Their weekend Test Kitchen turns the space into a creative culinary studio, where Head Chef Illia hosts intimate dinners and experimental tastings that have become cult favourites. Come for the mango gel, stay for the homegrown heart. Across town in Al Quoz, No Trespassing at Ishara Art
Opening page: A Normal Day cafe;
From left: H11235 (Kiran Maharjan). Detail of our anthropocene conundrum (2025) at No Trespassing at Ishara Art Foundation, 2025. Image courtesy of Ishara Art Foundation and the artist. Photography by Faraz Khan; A Normal Day; cocktails at ICD Brookfeld Place; exhibitions at ICD Brookfeld Place; Fatspatrol (Fathima Mohiuddin). The World Out There (2025) at No Trespassing. Image courtesy of Ishara Art Foundation and the artist. Photography by Faraz Khan
Foundation (until 30 August) is a standout show that treats the city as canvas. Curated by Priyanka Mehra, the exhibition features regional and South Asian artists whose work explores the tension between public space and personal freedom. There are salvaged road signs and concrete blocks, grafti echoes and surveillance motifs – layered, questioning, and brilliantly urban. It’s part of a growing movement of UAE-based contemporary art that has something real to say.
In DIFC, ICD Brookfeld Place transforms from corporate to cultural. This year’s High Summer edition brings a dynamic calendar of exhibitions, pop-ups and experiences. Tasmeem’s new graphic arts show, Graphic Dissent, opened in June, showcasing politically driven poster designs from the Arab world, diaspora and around the world. Meanwhile, the ground-foor Summer Garden provides a cool, plantflled escape for cofee meetings, quiet work or a bit of people-watching. Power lunches get a seasonal refresh –La Niña and Josette are favourites.
For a dose of serenity with your culture, Jameel Arts Centre continues to be a refuge for the art-curious and
heat-avoidant. Located along the Jaddaf waterfront, its exhibitions rotate through themes like eco-feminism, spatial politics and memory. This summer, it’s hosting a series of artist-led workshops and screenings – many of which are free to attend. And if you need a deeper sensory escape, ToDA (Theatre of Digital Art) in Souk Madinat ofers immersive, multi-sensory experiences that blend art, music and movement – think AI Van Gogh or digital jazz concerts.
And sometimes, the best way to engage with the city is to step into its quieter, older corners. Start an early morning in Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, wandering alleyways that feel lifted from another century. Visit XVA Gallery and Café for Arabic cofee, homegrown art, and perhaps a spontaneous poetry reading. It’s a side of Dubai that still surprises – even long-time residents.
There’s a quiet, refective beauty to Dubai in the summer, if you know where to look. A slower, cooler way to engage with the city’s creative soul – whether it’s over cofee and endive salad at A Normal Day, a politically charged print at ICD Brookfeld, or the scent of cardamom in Al Fahidi’s still air. All you need to do is slow down.
Circle of Trust
In a country known for castaway fantasies and honeymoon clichés, The Ritz-Carlton Maldives, Fari Islands ofers something deeper. Think curved villas by Kerry Hill, creative programmes for kids, world-class dining, and a frst-of-its-kind cultural festival. Add your own butler and private boat to the mix, and it becomes the ultimate family escape – one where every generation fnds space, stillness and something to remember
In a sea of perfection, what sets one Maldivian island apart? It’s a question you ask when you’ve dipped your toes into every turquoise lagoon, sipped coconuts from a dozen overwater villas, and feel the pull for something beyond. The Ritz-Carlton Maldives, Fari Islands is an answer wrapped in quiet confdence – a place that balances architectural purity with barefoot warmth, where family memories are made, and where the ocean is not just a backdrop, but a way of life.
With its curved villas, vast overwater decks and swooping, sculptural walkways, the architecture is immediately striking – not just beautiful, but calming. Designed by the late Kerry Hill, the resort feels more like a foating sculpture garden than a hotel. Water laps at the edges of sleek white stone. Light bends and bounces. It’s not showy. It’s considered. And it draws in a new kind of Maldivian traveller.
The Ritz-Carlton Maldives, Fari Islands is part of the Fari Islands Archipelago – four islands connected by a shared vision of sustainability, creativity and design. A 45-minute speedboat from Malé, the resort is both remote and accessible. There are 100 villas, all with private pools and panoramic views, but the sweet spot is in the larger options – the two-bedroom overwater villas and four-bedroom The Ritz-Carlton Estate – both ideal for extended families or friends travelling together. Villas come with a dedicated Aris Meeha (island butler), ofering warm, intuitive service with a Maldivian touch.
This is a place where mornings start with sunrise yoga or barefoot breakfasts beside the sea. Where afternoons can drift from paddleboarding to spa time, or from sound healing to spotting turtles
with Naturalists from the Marine Centre team. It’s peaceful, but never passive – there’s always something to do, if you want it.
Children are very much part of the picture here. Ritz Kids, the resort’s children’s programme, runs daily and thoughtfully – no plastic toys or screen-heavy distractions, but purposeful, naturebased activities. Think coral planting, cooking classes, storytelling, and sandcastle-building on the shoreline. Teens can snorkel, take part in learning traditional local dance or sailing. And adults? They can book a Bamford facial in the resort’s ring-shaped spa, or take a boat across to Fari Marina Village – home to boutiques, galleries and more dining spots.
Food is a strong suit here, with seven restaurants across the resort. The chef’s table at IWAU ofers omakase beneath the stars, while La Locanda serves sun-drenched Italian fare with views across the lagoon. New for 2025 is the Fari Islands Festival, running 19 to 22 September: an arts and culture celebration bringing international chefs, musicians and makers to the archipelago – and further proof that this is no ordinary island retreat.
Evenings are soft and slow. Stargazing from the boardwalk. Grilled lobster at EAU Bar. Children asleep, grandparents reading, someone making one last cocktail. The circles come full. For those seeking a true hideaway that welcomes everyone – little ones, grown-ups, grandparents – The Ritz-Carlton Maldives, Fari Islands ofers the right kind of escape. Personal, peaceful, quietly remarkable. ritzcarlton.com/Maldives, @ritzcarltonmaldives
I n the Mood for Moda Vida
What began as a love afair with Portugal has evolved into one of Europe’s most inspired new hospitality concepts, a growing collection of architecturally restored homes in the Algarve, designed for slow, beautiful living
PORTUGAL’S CHICEST PRIVATE RENTAL FIRM OPENS CASA QUATRO
There’s a certain kind of traveller who comes to the Algarve not for golf courses or high-rise resorts, but for almond blossom trails, whitewashed villages, and the scent of orange groves on a summer breeze. That’s who The Addresses was made for – those seeking villas in Portugal, with a diference.
Founded in 2021 by Belgian friends Jeuris and Beun, The Addresses takes the idea of the private holiday rental and elevates it with quiet confdence. Each house tells a story of Portugal’s soulful south – far from the over-touristed coastlines, these are homes rooted in place, reimagined with Belgian precision, and a concierge service that leaves you as left-alone or looked-after as you please.
The frst was Casa Um, a former shepherd’s hut perched in amber-hued farmlands near Tavira. Its soft white volumes and lavender-scented gardens embody The Addresses’ ethos: rustic form given refned function. Casa Dois, a converted fshing warehouse in salty Olhão, followed –all sun-soaked terraces and plunge pools tucked behind preserved archways. Then came Casa Três, a stately
merchant’s home turned minimalist retreat in Vila Real de Santo António, where roof terraces look across the Guadiana River and into Spain. Now, in summer 2025, a new chapter begins: Casa Quatro.
Set in inland São Brás de Alportel – a poetic pocket of the Algarve once famed for cork and bishops’ summer palaces – Casa Quatro is The Addresses’ most immersive project yet. Housed in a 1930s trading home in the shadow of the cathedral, the villa is a masterclass in sensitive restoration. Vaulted ceilings soar above open-plan living spaces; four en-suite bedrooms spill into a rooftop terrace, hidden patio, and tiled pool shaded by citrus trees.
Here, old and new sit in quiet conversation. Local stone, Portuguese tiles and hand-fnished woods ground the interiors, while clean lines and contemporary furniture give them breath. It’s less ‘design hotel’ and more lived-in sanctuary – a place to slow down, sip vinho verde under the stars, and hear the town clock strike noon.
‘We always start with the soul of the place,’ explains
Beun, who co-founded The Addresses after years of visiting Portugal as a wine buyer. ‘Our homes are never in obvious locations. We look for authenticity, for a story we can continue rather than overwrite.’ These are some of the most unique villas in Portugal.
Guests can opt in (or out) of thoughtful extras: fresh bread each morning, massages beneath olive trees, a local cook preparing cataplana at home. No fuss, just feeling. The Addresses doesn’t ofer fashy pools or infnity-edge clichés. What it ofers is more subtle, more enduring: silence, space, and sunlight on terracotta foors. It’s Portugal as it’s meant to be – slow, local, and full of soul.
With four homes now open, and more on the way, The Addresses is becoming something of a secret society for design lovers, architecture bufs, and seekers of the soft life. But don’t expect mass expansion. As Beun puts it: ‘Each house has to be found. It has to earn its place.’
To book villas in Portugal, visit: theaddresses.com; @the_addresses
Photos: Casa Três and Casa Quatro
THE MAINLAND EVENT
COSTA NAVARINO, PELOPONNESE, GREECE
On Greece’s lesser-known Peloponnese coast, a new Mandarin Oriental is quietly redefining luxury – with sea views, spa rituals and a sense of stillness that feels rare in the Med
Set on a secluded stretch of the Peloponnese, this is Greece at its most grounded and re ned – all linenclad ease, salt-scented gardens and quietly brilliant service, a world away from the country’s louder summer hotspots
There’s a silence that hangs in the air here – not emptiness, but a kind of intentional quiet. The kind that makes you slow down, breathe more deeply, and listen. After the high-summer chaos of Mykonos or the cobbled drama of Santorini, it’s a surprise to fnd this kind of stillness on the Greek mainland. And yet, here it is.
Tucked into the sun-baked southwest corner of the Peloponnese, Costa Navarino is Greece’s most considered resort development to date. Built over a decade by the Constantakopoulos family with a clear eye on sustainability, the coastal region now houses championship golf courses, low-impact resorts, tennis academies and wellness spaces. But for all that structure, it still feels spacious, natural and unforced – helped by a masterplan that prioritises native fora, views over villas, and the absence of anything resembling a high-rise.
Mandarin Oriental’s arrival here – the group’s frst foray into Greece – feels like a statement. Not a fashy launch or a bid for headlines, but a quiet declaration of intent: that this corner of the mainland is worth the detour. Getting here isn’t immediate. It’s around a threehour drive from Athens, or a 45-minute transfer from Kalamata, if you catch one of the seasonal fights. But for those who make the efort, the rewards are generous –and refreshingly low-key.
The resort reveals itself slowly. From above, you might not spot it at all. The main building is embedded into the hillside, its sharp lines and pale tones blending almost invisibly into the terrain. Step inside and the atmosphere shifts. Cool stone, textured wood, linen-draped furnishings and foor-to-ceiling glass: the familiar Mandarin Oriental polish is there, but the aesthetic has been softened by a Mediterranean hand. The welcome is equally discreet – no fanfare, no theatricality. Just a fragrant towel, a lilac-hued herbal drink, and the kind of service that anticipates what you need without being asked.
There are no standard rooms. Just 99 suites and villas – all generous in scale, many with sea-facing terraces or plunge pools. The design is confdent but never showy: olive-wood furniture, terrazzo foors, reedwoven headboards and gentle lighting. Bathrooms are vast, fnished in marble, with Ortigia products and rainfall showers. The villas, especially, feel residential –standalone and private, with infnity pools overlooking either the golf course or the bay. E-bikes stationed discreetly outside each villa make traversing the sloping grounds a breeze.
Days unfold at your pace. Morning Pilates on the outdoor deck, overlooking the sea. A hammam ritual or deeptissue massage at the spa, which is among the fnest in the region. There’s an indoor pool with ocean views, a sleek gym, and sun-drenched spa suites that open onto gardens planted with rosemary and lavender. The post-treatment experience – a plunge pool, a quiet seat in the herbscented sun, and a warm pot of Greek mountain tea – is one of the most quietly restorative rituals this reviewer has experienced in a hotel setting.
While there’s no formal nightlife, there’s no sense of absence. The tone is grown-up but relaxed – guests include well-travelled couples, design-focused families, and wellness-minded solo travellers. Children are welcome, with a kids’ club near the beach and a gelato stand that earns wide-eyed approval – but the overall mood is one of understated calm.
Food is another strong point. Oliviera champions Messenian produce with simple, elegant dishes: grilled fsh, heirloom tomatoes, honey-drizzled yoghurt. Ormos is the resort’s beachfront option – toes-in-sand Greek–Mediterranean done with fnesse – while Tahir ofers Levantine-inspired sharing plates with bold favours and generous spice. A particular standout is Pizza Sapienza – a counter-style pizza omakase experience, delivered
GOOLDEN LIGHT
by Greek and Italian chefs with genuine warmth and humour. Come hungry.
Even breakfast is memorable. While fully à la carte, each morning begins with the Paramana – a curated tray of seasonal Greek specialities that appears at your table without request. Bougatsa, local cheeses, fgs, yoghurt and pine honey – it’s all there, rotating slightly each day, served before you’ve decided what else to order.
The only caveat, for some, may be the setting itself. This isn’t Athens, with its layered culture and evening buzz, nor is it the island scene of the Cyclades. Beyond the resort, there’s little to do unless you’re golfng, playing tennis, or heading to the nearby village of Pylos. You’ll want a car for day trips – or simply lean into the hotel’s real luxury: the freedom to do very little at all.
Mandarin Oriental Costa Navarino isn’t trying to be everything. It’s polished without being precious, immersive without overreaching, and perfectly content to exist in its own quiet corner of Greece. For those who’ve already ticked of the big names – and want something slower, smarter and more grounded – this is a rare and welcome fnd.
mandarinoriental.com; @mo_costanavarino
Photography by Julia Nimke and Alexandros Giannakakis/UnSplash
NEW HORIZONS, ANCIENT LIGHT
What
Athens is having a moment, and the Riviera is following suit. Just beyond, the Cyclades ofer compelling alternatives to Mykonos and Santorini – from artistic Syros to culinary Sifnos – each only a short ferry hop from the capital.
22 ACE HOTEL & SWIM CLUB, ATHENS
22
Best for: Throwback Riviera glamour with a modern beat
The Athens Riviera has quietly become Europe’s chicest coastal comeback – and the new Ace Hotel & Swim Club is the latest sign of its renaissance. Just 15 minutes from central Athens, in the palm-lined beachside neighbourhood of Glyfada, the Ace is where 1960s Riviera nostalgia meets the cool, creative spirit of the Ace brand. Housed in a low-slung whitewashed complex with a past life as a retro resort, the hotel is all soft Brutalism and vintage charm. Think canary yellow umbrellas, striped loungers, hand-plastered walls and timber furniture, with pops of colour and a breeze of Slim Aarons glamour. It’s the frst European outpost of Ace’s Swim Club concept – part poolside hangout, part cultural space –and it’s fast becoming the go-to summer address for stylish Athenians and in-the-know visitors. The lobby has a familiar Ace energy: open-plan with a long co-working table, cofee bar, and DJs at night. The pool is the main event, with day passes, cocktails, a casual bar menu, and a buzzing weekend scene. Upstairs, 120 rooms mix simplicity and comfort, with open wardrobes, linen textures and balconies made for drying swimwear and sipping ouzo. For a few hours or a few days, the Ace Swim Club Athens brings a sun-drenched dose of Californian attitude to Greece – laidback, upbeat, and beautifully designed. It’s not just a hotel – it’s the place to be.
TINOS, CYCLADES
Best for: Under-the-radar charm, traditional villages and a slower pace of Cycladic life
The Cyclades have their fair share of scene-stealers, but Tinos stands apart for doing less – and doing it well. Just 30 minutes by ferry from Mykonos, the island trades champagne spray for simplicity, drawing a more grounded, Greek crowd. Pilgrims come for the Panagia Evangelistria church – one of the country’s most revered religious sites – while aesthetes are drawn to Pyrgos, the marble-working village where almost every doorway, fountain and street corner has been carved into art. But it’s the island’s rhythm that really seduces: long lunches, dips of quiet coves, and hikes that connect more than 40 authentic villages strung across hills of dry-stone terraces and wind-sculpted chapels. There’s a growing undercurrent of style here too – Tinos Town now has the low-key cool of Mama Sun, a new, no-fuss tap bar with a local following, joining other bustling cocktail bars drawing a young crowd. High-design stays include Xinara House and Blacksmiths, an artfully restored villa and seperate apartment in a mountain village by two British expats who came for a weekend and never left – a ftting story for a place that slowly, surely, wins you over.
Clockwise from top left: Cocktails on top at Mama Sun Tinos (@mamasun. tinos); Sifnos’ rugged coastline; Aristide hotel in Syros; Syros’ neo-classical port; marble shops in the north of Tinos
SIFNOS, CYCLADES
Best for: Design-savvy food lovers who pack linen and cookbooks
Sifnos has long drawn Greeks in the know – artists, chefs, architects – who arrive with little fanfare and leave reluctantly. It’s a small island with a big culinary reputation, birthplace of Nikolaos Tselementes, Greece’s most celebrated chef, and home to a quietly excellent dining scene that sets it apart from fashier neighbours. Think tavernas with hand-thrown plates, gardens perfumed with oregano, and dishes like chickpea stew slow-cooked overnight in village ovens. The island’s villages – Apollonia, Artemonas, and Kastro – are all impossibly pretty, with cobbled paths, Byzantine chapels and whitewashed houses trimmed in dusty blue. There’s no airport, so it keeps the numbers in check, and hiking trails connect much of the island. For stays, Verina Astra ofers pared-back elegance and long Aegean views, while Nos Hotel in the port of Kamares is a new design-forward hideaway with a private beach. Don’t miss a sunset cocktail at Cantina in Vathi or a long dinner at Maiolica, where Sicilian and Greek infuences meet in one of the loveliest garden settings in the Cyclades.
SYROS, CYCLADES
Best for: Cosmopolitan buzz, neoclassical beauty and design-led stays
Syros is the year-round capital of the Cyclades – a working island with soul, energy and an eye on the future. Unlike its sugar-cube siblings, Syros is all neoclassical grandeur and old-world grit, a place where townhouses rise in dusky hues and opera houses outnumber beach clubs. Hermoupolis, the main town, feels more Palermo than Paros – its marble-paved squares, grand staircases and faded mansions a nod to its 19th-century shipping wealth. Today, it’s home to university students, creatives, and a smattering of new arrivals fuelling the island’s cultural revival. You’ll fnd independent galleries, smart restaurants and wine bars pouring natural Greek vintages until late. Aristide Hotel, a nine-suite boutique stay set in a restored neoclassical mansion, embodies the new Syros: all moody interiors, sculptural lighting, and a rooftop bar overlooking the Aegean. The story is compelling – opened by two sisters with a background in art and philanthropy, it doubles as a creative hub with a gallery and artist-in-residence programme. Syros doesn’t try to be trendy – it’s too busy being interesting. And that, more than anything, is what keeps people coming back.
Loungers at Xinara House; views of Tinos Town.
Photography by Peter Marston
HIDDEN IN PLAIN SIGHT
A 13th-century estate on its own island – just ten minutes from Cannes – is redefning Riviera escapes
There’s no hotel signage, no reception desk – just a boat, a garden gate and the quiet certainty that you’ve arrived somewhere few ever will
In a region where spectacle often masquerades as sophistication, genuine exclusivity has become increasingly rare. But just a 10-minute boat ride from Cannes lies a place that rewrites the script. A discreet, island hideaway, surrounded by eucalyptus and citrus trees, where the pace slows and the days stretch long. Welcome to Le Grand Jardin – an estate that’s quietly become the Riviera’s most soughtafter secret.
Set on Île Sainte-Marguerite – the largest of the Lérins Islands – Le Grand Jardin occupies a piece of land with centuries of history. It once belonged to French royalty and, more recently, to silence. Then came the Ultima Collection, whose portfolio of private homes includes residences across the Alps and the Med. Here, they’ve restored a 13 th-century estate into a low-key, high-comfort retreat, surrounded on all sides by forest and sea. The result is more house than hotel, more sanctuary than statement.
Getting here is part of the charm. Guests arrive by teakdecked Venetian-style boat, with a private skipper on hand for the duration of their stay. As Cannes disappears into the haze, the island comes into view – its shoreline dappled with pine and the estate hidden behind stone walls and bougainvillaea. Once ashore, a short walk through shaded paths brings you to the main villa, and something that feels both cinematic and understated.
Le Grand Jardin has 12 en-suite bedrooms, arranged across restored cottages, spa suites, and the original manor. Each room is distinct – some with terraces tucked under olive trees, others with tall windows facing the gardens or the sea. Interiors are pared back and comfortable: washed stone, weathered wood, natural linen, and vintage pieces that speak softly rather than shout. There’s a quiet assurance to the design – unpretentious, familiar, and deeply considered. For groups, the layout works well. While everyone has privacy, shared spaces draw people together – terraces for
breakfast, the pool for a mid-afternoon swim, and the old fort’s salon for games or late-night conversations. There’s no restaurant, but that’s part of the appeal. Every booking comes with a private chef, who can prepare whatever guests fancy – from grilled fsh and market vegetables to traditional French classics. Meals are fexible, informal and designed around the day’s rhythm, not the other way round.
The estate also ofers something few others can: access to Zuma, the globally recognised Japanese restaurant. Through an exclusive partnership, guests can host a private omakase-style dinner on site – complete with chefs, lighting, music and tailored menus. It’s available for groups of ten or more and transforms the garden into something that feels quietly extravagant – all without leaving the grounds. Other partnerships, with local roots, include perfumer, Fragonard, whose team is able to drive and boat over from Grasses to ofer bespoke workshops, where guests can craft their own unique fragrances as an olfactory reminder of their stay.
And if you do want to leave? Just a 15-minute walk through the forest brings you to La Guérite – the island’s only restaurant and one of Cannes’ most in-demand summer destinations. For most, reservations are tricky. For guests of Le Grand Jardin, a table is guaranteed.
Wellness is a core part of the experience. The estate’s spa has a gym, steam, sauna, hammam and treatment suite, with therapies by Seed to Skin and facials by Augustinus Bader. Mornings might begin with a massage, followed by a tea in the shade of the garden. There are no fxed hours – the concierge arranges treatments around your day, not the other way round. You won’t need to leave your suite, either – the spa rooms are within steps of the treatment areas, adding to the sense of ease.
Although Île Sainte-Marguerite is open to the public during the day, Le Grand Jardin is completely walled and private.
A DISCREET SECRET HIDEAWAY
SURROUNDED BY EUCALYPTUS AND CITRUS TREES
Photography by Mike Wolf
By sunset, when the last of the public boats leave, silence returns. There are no neighbours, no cars, no music beyond your own. Just the occasional hum of cicadas, the breeze in the eucalyptus, and the soft clink of glasses over dinner.
It’s easy to slip into a routine – cofee under the fg tree, swims in the sea or the pool, reading beneath the palms, aperitifs on the terrace, and dinners under a sky that gradually turns from peach to indigo. If you’re restless, excursions can be arranged: a tasting at a Provençal vineyard, sailing down the coast, or a day trip to Antibes or Saint-Tropez. But for many, the greatest pleasure lies in doing very little.
What sets Le Grand Jardin apart isn’t a single detail – it’s the harmony between them. The service is seamless but discreet. The surroundings are historic but unfussy. The days fow without interruption. It feels less like a rental and more like a home you’ve been invited into, with the infrastructure of a hotel, but none of the compromise.
That said, this is not a casual summer stay. With weekly rates from € 150,000, Le Grand Jardin is positioned for those who know the Riviera well, who’ve done the hotels, and are ready for something that feels more personal. More discreet. More theirs.
Because ultimately, what makes Le Grand Jardin special isn’t the views, or the private boat, or the seamless service – though those help. It’s the rare feeling of privacy and peace, right at the heart of one of the world’s most visited coastlines. The kind of place that doesn’t need to announce itself. It just exists – quietly, confdently – waiting for those who know where to look.
Getting there
Nice Côte d’Azur Airport connects with terminals across the GCC. From Nice, it’s a around a 35-minute drive to Cannes, followed by a 10-minute boat to Île Sainte-Marguerite. ultimacollection.com, @legrandjardin_cannes
The Island Remix
Ibiza’s original bohemian hotel re-emerges with a bold new beat – fusing Pacha’s untamed soul with Dubai’s polished shine. Now under FIVE Holdings, Destino Five Ibiza is rewriting the rhythm of the white isle with slick design, high-energy Thursdays and a quietly confdent take on fve-star island living. The party never left – it just got a very stylish upgrade
IT TAKES SOMETHING BOLD TO MAKE A MARK ON IBIZA...
...an island built on legends and sky-high standards in hospitality, music and style. But when FIVE Holdings acquired The Pacha Group, and with it, Destino resort, the ambition wasn’t to start over. It was to remix a classic for a new generation.
Destino has long been part of Ibiza’s story. Tucked above Talamanca Bay, surrounded by pines and palms, the low-slung whitewashed property opened under The Pacha Group as the brand’s relaxed, barefoot-luxe counterpart. It became a favoured escape for those who danced until dawn at the club, then wanted something quieter – a place where kaftans replaced sequins, and mornings unfolded slowly in the sun.
Now, with a full-scale rebrand and fve-star relaunch, the resort re-emerges as Destino Five Ibiza. The transformation has been led by Dubai-based FIVE Holdings, who have retained the essence of the place – while elevating the experience. Interiors are fresh, modern and confdent, designed by Nadia Zaal, whose signature aesthetic blends clean lines with warmth. The lobby is all gauzy curtains and golden accents, with the scent of local hierbas liqueur served
on arrival. Terraces blur into gardens, and public spaces echo the open-air energy of Ibiza’s golden age.
Across the 159 rooms and suites, there’s a sense of playful sophistication. Mirrors above the beds, cheeky in-room amenities and plenty of nods to the property’s history are paired with calming neutrals, private terraces and a community-focused layout that makes the resort feel like a Spanish village. The architecture remains low-rise and typically Ibicenco – all whitewashed walls and leafy courtyards – while the styling takes cues from both the island and further afeld.
The daytime atmosphere is a masterclass in restraint. Poolside, guests lounge under white parasols, sip cocktails and graze on Mediterranean plates as Balearic beats roll through the air. There’s no loud branding or forced theatrics. The scene leans into soft glamour and slow living, which makes the energy shift on Thursdays all the more thrilling.
Every Thursday, the hotel hosts Pacha Icons – a tribute to the island’s musical heritage and a fxture on the summer
calendar. The 2025 season has welcomed performances from Marco Carola, Paco Osuna, Max Dean, Melanie Ribbe and Yugo Sanchez. Held outdoors in the resort’s signature space, it’s high production, high energy and all access. Guests staying at Destino Five Ibiza receive complimentary entry to the Pacha club during their stay, the island’s original superclub and a cornerstone of the Ibiza nightlife scene.
Evenings at the hotel take on their own rhythm. Some guests enjoy balcony aperitifs, while others head to dinner or make their way to one of the group’s other venues. The location is a draw – close enough to Ibiza Town for a late supper or gallery opening, but tucked away enough to sleep undisturbed.
The hotel has always been more than just a place to sleep. It’s a hub for creative energy, where fashion, music, and design collide. FIVE Holdings has amplifed that ethos, bringing in elevated service and discreet luxury while keeping the island spirit intact. The bar staf know their classics, the spa ofers targeted treatments using local ingredients, and the concierge can arrange everything from boat charters to of-the-map dining.
What makes Destino Five Ibiza feel relevant now is its ability to balance contrasts. It’s fun without being chaotic, stylish without pretension, social but never overwhelming. The crowd is international – a mix of loyal Ibiza-goers, in-theknow Dubai regulars, and younger creatives looking for something diferent from the usual beach club routine.
There’s a particular elegance to how the old and new sit together. The spirit of Pacha still fows through the resort, but it’s been distilled into something sharper. A little more grown-up, a little more considered, without losing any of the energy. The hotel is no longer just a satellite of the club, but a destination in its own right – with its own rhythm, crowd and agenda.
In an increasingly saturated island scene, Destino Five Ibiza ofers something rare: a proper sense of place, wrapped in impeccable design and the kind of atmosphere that doesn’t need to shout. It’s quietly confdent, culturally aware, and refreshingly unfashy – proof that Ibiza still knows how to reinvent itself, one beat at a time.
A favoured escape for those who then wanted something quieter
danced until dawn at the club ,
Tucked in South Africa’s most stylish valley, La Residence redefnes rural escape. With roaring fres, jeweltoned suites, donkeys in the orchard and a maxi-bar you won’t want to leave, this is country living with maximalist fair – courtesy of the Royal Portfolio’s inimitable eye for drama, colour and comfort
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Set on a 30-acre private estate in the Franschhoek Valley, the hotel feels more like a private home. There’s no check-in desk or lobby, just a grand entrance, a warm welcome and a sweep of vineyards and mountains that catch the light at all hours of the day. A welcoming glass of estate pour is offered on arrival, bold reds in winter, crisp rosé in the sunshine. The 11 suites in the main house are all individually designed, each telling its 42
SOMEWHERE BETWEEN CAPE TOWN’S CRAGGY COASTLINES...
...and the dusty Karoo, the road to Franschhoek carves through rolling vineyards, protea-covered valleys and dramatic mountain passes. The town, settled by French Huguenots in the 17th century, is often dubbed the culinary capital of South Africa – but it’s more than just great food and wine. There’s a mood here: a self-assured elegance, a reverence for beauty and time well spent. And at its heart is La Residence – a wildly decadent and deeply comforting hotel by The Royal Portfolio, a family-run group known for its bold, maximalist style.
The Royal Portfolio stands apart in South Africa’s luxury landscape. Founded by Liz Biden – a former fashion entrepreneur turned hotelier – the properties are defned by their fair: think jewel-toned silks, animal prints, Persian rugs and antique chandeliers. Her aesthetic resists minimalism in favour of personality, and La Residence is her most expressive creation.
own story through colour, art and eclectic furniture. A short walk away, fve vineyard suites (cottages) ofer more privacy – perfect for families or groups. New to the property is Franschhoek House, a four-bedroom villa with its own entrance, pool, dining room and full kitchen. Stylish and supremely private, it’s a thoughtful addition for those wanting all the service of a fve-star hotel with the feel of a private residence.
Days at La Residence are deliberately unhurried. Mornings begin with plunger cofee and the sound of birdsong through open windows. There’s a long country table where breakfast is served –fresh fruit, eggs made to order, and homemade preserves. A chef stands by for whatever you feel like. Some guests head of to the local wineries or the nearby Franschhoek Motor Museum, while others stay put – reading by the pool or walking among the resident springboks and donkeys.
I wandered into town, just a short stroll away, where Franschhoek’s wide streets and Cape Dutch buildings give the feeling of a storybook flm set. One afternoon ended with a bottle of Syrah by the fre in my suite, with snacks from the complimentary maxi-bar. Another morning, I pottered down to breakfast in slippers, and hearing stories from the team, who always seemed to know exactly what you needed before you asked.
While La Residence is glorious in summer – sun loungers under parasols, glasses of chilled rosé, and dappled mountain light – it’s just as appealing in winter. Fireplaces crackle throughout the property, blankets are tucked on chairs, and guests curl up with red wine and novels as mountain mist rolls through the vines. It’s one of those rare places that works beautifully year-round.
Dining is as laid-back or indulgent as you want it to be. There’s no formal restaurant, just seasonal menus tailored to guests and served wherever feels right. One night that might be in the chandeliered dining room, with its warm glow and ‘heart of the hotel’ feeling. The next out on the veranda. Produce is largely local – the estate’s own vegetables, cheeses and preserves from their own, and nearby, farms, and bottles of wine from vineyards jjust outside the door.
For GCC travellers, La Residence ofers what few others do: fexibility, privacy and something completely diferent from the branded luxury hotel experience. Families can take over a cluster of suites or opt for the standalone villa. Service is discreet and intuitive, and the overall feeling is one of total ease. There’s no need to dress up, no pressure to fll your day. It’s luxury without formality – the kind that gives you space to unwind completely.
Design lovers will appreciate the boldness of the interiors – they’re not for everyone, but they’re memorable, generous, and full of character. You feel, very quickly, that you’re not in a hotel at all, but somewhere more personal. And that’s what stays with you – the softness of the light, the scent of the orchards, the feeling of being entirely looked after without ever being fussed over. It’s a rare thing to fnd in a hotel: true personality and lasting warmth.
Because for all the grandeur – the chandeliers, the antiques, the world-class wine – La Residence succeeds not by showing of, but by ofering a sense of welcome that’s hard to fnd anywhere else. In a world of ever-slicker hotels, La Residence is gloriously unfltered. It is romantic, eccentric, a little theatrical – and utterly unforgettable.
theroyalportfolio.com; @laresidencesa
From top: Franschhoek’s Dutch Reformed church; the main pool at La Residence
A TALE OF TWO TABLES
From Tuscan classics to fresh seafood by the turquoise Gulf, two of The St. Regis Abu Dhabi’s standout restaurants ofer escapism on a plate.
When the summer heat sets in, there’s something particularly appealing about a restaurant that feels like a world of its own –somewhere with charm, character and just the right amount of escape. At The St. Regis Abu Dhabi, two such dining destinations ofer more than a great plate of food. They ofer transportive experiences that linger long after the last course.
Let’s start in Italy – or at least, a very convincing version of it. Villa Toscana has long been a favourite among discerning diners in the capital, but there’s something especially magnetic about it in summer. Step through its doors and you’ll fnd yourself in what feels like the drawing room of an aristocratic Tuscan estate: panelled walls, white tablecloths, rustic wooden detailing, and artworks that nod to countryside nostalgia. The service is gracious without being over-familiar; the setting elegant, but relaxed enough to settle in for a long evening.
Under the direction of Head Chef Vittorio Nania, the kitchen delivers a refned take on regional Italian cuisine. Everything is made with an obsessive attention to detail – from hand-rolled pasta to expertly balanced risottos. Signature dishes like Risotto N’duja, inspired by Chef Vittorio’s Calabrian roots, and Duck Breast with Tropea Onion Gel tell a story of heritage and fnesse. Even the desserts are personal: the Delizia Limone is a nod to the chef’s childhood summers in southern Italy.
For those looking to make an evening of it, the terrace ofers a
breezy outdoor setting, while two private dining rooms inside cater to more intimate occasions.
Across the corniche – and stylistically, a world away – Catch at St. Regis leans into its coastal location with fair. The mood here is sultry and sophisticated, with a design that channels the ocean without becoming themed: foor-to-ceiling windows look out over the Arabian Gulf, rope lighting casts a warm glow, and a digital seascape glimmers across a wall-sized LED screen. This is dining as theatre, without being theatrical.
Chef Kessav Kutwaroo’s menu spans continents but is anchored by a commitment to top-quality ingredients. Caviar, oysters, sushi and premium cuts of meat arrive at the table like sculptural artworks – beautiful, yes, but never style over substance. The wine list is serious, the cocktails sharp, and there’s a dedicated private dining room tucked behind the cellar for those looking to keep things discreet. In cooler months, the outdoor garden opens up, ofering a prime seat for sunset, sea air and live music.
Whether you’re in the mood for Italian tradition or contemporary coastal glamour, these two restaurants at The St. Regis Abu Dhabi serve up much more than a meal. They’re summer-ready, specialoccasion-worthy, and well worth a place on your radar – this season and beyond.
@stregisabudhabi, stregisabudhabi.com
What began as a love affair with Portugal has evolved into one of Europe s most inspired new hospitality concepts, a growing collection of architecturally restored homes in the Algarve, designed for slow, beautiful.
Set on a working farm in South Africa’s Cape Winelands, Sterrekopje is not your average escape. Expect barefoot breakfasts, bathtubs by swimming ponds, and ritual over routine – a healing farm for those seeking something deeper than wine country clichés
ROLLS-ROYCE IN MARSEILLE
You don’t come to Sterrekopje to detox, disconnect or do a digital cleanse – you come to remember what it feels like to be human. Tucked into the foothills outside Franschhoek, the dreamlike town in South Africa’s Cape Winelands, this 50-hectare regenerative farm and retreat is a place of soul, soil and slow, sensory restoration.
It’s not a hotel, not a retreat centre, and certainly not a spa. Instead, it calls itself a healing farm – a term coined by founder Fleur Huijskens a native of Amsterdam who left her corporate world behind to create something far more instinctive with her partner, Nicole Boekhoorn. Drawing on years of personal exploration, land stewardship and ritual-based healing, she’s created an entirely new kind of sanctuary –one rooted in rhythm, creativity, nourishment and the natural world.
There are just 11 suites and rooms, spread across whitewashed farmhouses with names like Cocoon and Chrysalis. Interiors feel like a painter-poet’s countryside escape – hand-plastered walls, antique writing desks, copper tubs by the window and shelves lined with botanical volumes and ceramics. Each is diferent, all grounded in soft tones, natural textures and views over orchards, fynbos and the farm’s swimming ponds. Some rooms have freplaces, others deep soaking tubs that overlook the wild, rewilded landscape – nothing feels overdesigned or formulaic. You sense, immediately, that this is a space built on feeling, not trend.
Days are guided by ritual and instinct. Mornings begin with tea ceremonies or barefoot farm walks, followed by slow breakfasts served in the open kitchen – sourdoughs fresh from the wood-fred oven, eggs from the farm’s hens, tomatoes still warm from the sun. Instead of a rigid itinerary, guests are invited to move intuitively –choosing from a medley of creative and healing practices: pottery, sound bathing, painting, intuitive massage, forest bathing, cold plunges and journalling under the olive trees. Some stay silent for days, others fnd themselves laughing in the kitchen over cake. This is a place that honours personal pace.
Sterrekopje’s biodynamic farm is its heart – home to chickens, bees, olive trees, fruit orchards, and vegetable patches that supply the kitchen. Meals are communal and mostly plant-based, served around long wooden tables or outside beneath the stars. There’s wine – some of the best in the Cape – but this isn’t a place for over-indulgence. Rather, it’s about returning to the essence of taste, texture and time.
In a region known for hedonism and grand estates, Sterrekopje ofers something far rarer – the feeling of being deeply held, seen, and restored. Come alone, come tired, come open – and leave softer, steadier, and more alive. .sterrekopje.com; @sterrekopjefarm
Photography by Elsa Young, Emma Jude Jackson, Gary Van Wijk and Inge Prins
A Moroccan
Odyssey
From Casablanca’s faded grandeur to the quiet glamour of Tamuda Bay and the medina-within-a-medina in Marrakech, this is a journey through Morocco with Royal Mansour – a hotel group that doesn’t just reflect the country’s craftsmanship, but helped define it
From left: La Grande Table Marocaine in Marrakech; Royal Mansour Marrakech’s swimming pool; the city’s Mellah district
I touched down in Casablanca for the frst time alone, my usual travel ease replaced by the kind of nervous energy that comes from stepping into the unknown. But the moment I spotted the uniformed airport staf holding a Royal Mansour sign, something shifted. I was whisked through immigration, my luggage discreetly handled, and outside, a gleaming Range Rover awaited, its driver greeting me with a nod and a bottle of chilled water. The solo-travel nerves dissolved. And rightly so.
Casablanca’s sprawl faded into coastline, then into undulating felds of barley, olive trees and the occasional wild poppy. The landscape softened the further south we travelled, ochre earth rolling out under soft spring light. By the time the car turned toward Marrakech, a stillness had settled in. The sky blushed pink. Then came the city walls – tall, ancient, dusty rose – and just beyond them, a carved cedarwood gate opened to another world entirely.
Royal Mansour Marrakech is one of the most extraordinary hotels I’ve ever stepped into – and I don’t say that lightly. Commissioned by King Mohammed VI as a showcase of Morocco’s fnest craftsmanship, the
property is a love letter to the country’s design heritage and artisanal mastery. It took over 1,500 artisans to bring the vision to life, and it shows – in every zellige tile, every carved archway, every lattice shadow dancing across the foor.
But it’s more than beautiful. It’s clever. The entire hotel is built like its own medina – a maze of rosehued alleys, jasmine-scented courtyards, and 53 standalone riads, each with their own rooftop pool and terrace. You don’t just check in – you disappear into your own private world, looked after by a personal butler who anticipates every whim. Mine appeared like a phantom with trays of fresh fruit, ran me a rose-scented bath each night, and delivered breakfast to the roof terrace with the city’s call to prayer drifting on the morning breeze.
Days in Marrakech unfold slowly at Royal Mansour. We’d start with breakfast in the gardens – soft eggs and safron, Moroccan pancakes with wild honey – served under birdsong and citrus trees. The pool is like a mirage – a grand, turquoise lake fanked by private cabanas, a rarity in a city where most pools are modest, tucked into courtyards or rooftops.
Our breakfast setting, La Grande Brasserie by Hélène Darroze, is destination-worthy in its own right. Along
From left: Private terraces overlook the Med at Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay; bright and beachy rooms; the resort at golden hour
with the other restaurants, like Italian Sesamo and La Grande Table Marocaine (where cous-cous Fridays are a ritual). But one of the most spellbinding experiences is exclusive to Royal Mansour guests – a private tour of Serge Lutens’ riad in the medina. Hidden behind an unmarked door, the enigmatic perfumer’s home is a dreamlike labyrinth of velvet, shadow and scent, more jewellery box than house. To walk through it in silence – no photos – was like entering a spell.
But this odyssey wasn’t just about one city. From Marrakech, I boarded a short internal fight to Tétouan, a charming, formerly Spanish port town in the north. Here, just ffteen minutes from the airport, sits Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay – a new chapter for the brand, and Morocco’s most elegant beachside retreat.
If Marrakech is all mosaic and mystery, Tamuda Bay is its bright, barefoot cousin. Pale stone villas are spread across beachfront gardens, with oversized daybeds, still refection pools and secret walkways scented with pine and fg. The villas are vast – two- and three-bed residences with private gardens and pools, foor-to-ceiling windows, sea-facing terraces. Service here is just as discreet, and can bring fresh paella and iced mint teas to your sun lounger.
The Mediterranean is just steps away – impossibly clear, gentle in the morning and golden by afternoon. You could easily spend a week doing little more than dipping between sea and spa, lounging under date palms and ordering grilled fsh as the light shifts across the bay.
MARSEILLE
Marrakech’s Jardin Majorelle, a short drive from the resort; the medina of Tétouan
Art Deco cool in Casablanca; the gleaming lobby of Royal Mansour Casablanca; views of the Hassan II Mosque delight guests
But there’s more to explore – Tétouan’s medina is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with whitewashed alleys and fading Andalucian façades, its cultural tangle refecting its Spanish past.
And then there’s the spa – Africa’s largest medi-spa and a cornerstone of the new property. Here, traditional hammams meet cutting-edge technology, from cryotherapy and radiofrequency to IV drips and gut health diagnostics. I came for the sea air, I left with better posture and a long list of things I didn’t know my body needed. The fnal leg of our journey took us to Casablanca – not by car or plane, but on the highspeed Al Boraq train. In just over four hours to arrive in Morocco’s fastchanging cultural capital, gliding past felds, mosques and rust-coloured towns, before disembarking into the city’s faded Art Deco grandeur.
Royal Mansour Casablanca is unlike the others. A reimagined grande dame, it feels pulled from the set of the flm it shares a name with. There’s a drama to it – a sense of old-world theatre. The bar is all dark wood and hushed jazz, cocktails served under cinematic lighting. Upstairs, suites have vintage silhouettes with the comfort of modern tech – sweeping terraces, modern art, Japanese toilets. A hidden sushi bar and vast wellness centre remind you this is the future-facing face of the brand.
Casablanca itself is rawer than Marrakech or Tamuda Bay – its edges a little rougher, but its energy irresistible. The city’s art scene is growing fast, and the medina, while chaotic, has a real charm. From our ‘apartment’, a sweeping, seductive space and living homage to history’s designers and cinematographer, I see the Hassan II Mosque rising from the Atlantic – monumental, majestic, and unmissable. It seems to follow throughout the city –peeking between alleys, looming above rooftops – a constant, breathtaking reminder of Casablanca.
We quickly felt like I’d traced a new kind of map of Morocco – one drawn not by location but by feeling. Each Royal Mansour property ofers a completely distinct sense of place: the cinematic seduction of Casablanca, the Mediterranean refnement of Tamuda Bay, the spellbinding beauty of Marrakech. And yet, they all carried the same throughline – the King’s vision of hospitality, brought to life with such artistry and intent, it never once felt showy.
It’s hard to pick a favourite. But it’s even harder to forget the way I felt stepping into that frst riad, jasmine in the air, the chaos of the city held just at arm’s length. Like I’d arrived somewhere I already knew – a Morocco made not just to be seen, but felt. royalmansour.com; @royalmansourcollection
After frst arriving in Thailand more than 35 years ago, Aman has fnally returned – this time, with its frst urban outpost. In a city that never slows down, Aman Nai Lert Bangkok ofers a diferent pace: hushed, elegant and completely unexpected
Silence, at last, in the city.
Bangkok is not a quiet city. It’s a collage of movement and colour – of tuk-tuk horns and temple bells, concrete towers and golden shrines. Which is why arriving at Aman Nai Lert Bangkok feels almost disorienting. In the best possible way.
You step of the street and into another world – one that belongs, quite literally, to the trees. Set within the private gardens of the Nai Lert Park Heritage Home, the hotel is a new expression of Aman’s hushed hospitality, an urban sanctuary that seems to resist time, sound, and even light. Here, Bangkok unfolds not in 360 degrees, but through slats of shade, framed garden views and distant temple chants.
Aman’s frst urban outpost in Thailand sits at the edge of the Chao Phraya River’s bustle, but you wouldn’t know it. The entrance is discreet – intentionally so – and the hotel reveals itself gradually, through a low-lit lobby scented with sandalwood, a quiet library, and corridors that feel like they belong in a private residence, not a 36-storey skyscraper.
And yet, a skyscraper it is. Designed by Jean-Michel Gathy, the building rises with minimalist confdence from the leafy grounds of Nai Lert Park, a once-private estate that belonged to the late Nai Lert – the Thai-Chinese entrepreneur and philanthropist who helped shape modern Bangkok. His 100-year-old teakwood family house still stands at the edge of the property, open to guests as a heritage museum and a window into old Siam. Between the house and the hotel sits the garden – 20,000 square metres of tropical calm, open only to Aman guests and the few who know to visit.
It’s from this stillness that the hotel draws its strength. There are 52 suites (all very, very spacious), each designed with Aman’s signature restraint – pale woods, slatted panels, silkcovered walls and paper lanterns. Floor-to-ceiling windows look out over the garden canopy, fltering the city into something slower, softer. Some rooms have terraces, others deep soaking tubs, but all feel residential – like they were meant to be lived in, not just visited.
And that’s part of Aman’s enduring appeal: nothing shouts. There is no signage, no formality. Things appear as if by instinct – a cold towel, a cup of tea, a perfectly timed turn-down. Your butler seems to read your pace, not just your itinerary.
The dining is just as subtle. The all-day restaurant serves Thai and Japanese dishes with elegance but little fuss – green curry that tastes of home cooking, but served with linen napkins and silver chopsticks. At breakfast, there are golden mangoes, warm pastries, and pots of smooth Aman cofeee, or mango sticky rice tea, overlooking the city. The poolside bar ofers sake and champagne by the glass, and the seductive Aman Lounge – all lacquered wood and low lights – feels like somewhere Graham Greene might have written his Bangkok chapters.
But perhaps the most captivating part of a stay here is the sense of total unhurriedness. You might spend the morning drifting between the outdoor pool and spa, a subterranean cocoon of terrazzo and stone. Or wander through the heritage house, guided by one of Nai Lert’s descendants, whose family still owns
the estate. You might not leave the hotel grounds for days – and you wouldn’t be the frst.
Still, for those curious to explore, Aman Nai Lert is close to it all – the luxury malls of Phloen Chit, the street food stalls of Sukhumvit, the ferry rides down the river. But its true ofering is contrast. While Bangkok tilts forward with ambition and activity, Aman tilts inward. It’s a place for refection, for pause – a rare thing in a city so fuelled by energy.
As the sun begins to dip, the gardens fll with long shadows. The frangipani trees turn sweet. And up on the 16th foor, beside the infnity-edged pool, it feels like you’re watching Bangkok from a diferent dimension – not above it, exactly, but apart from it. The sky purples, a temple bell rings, and a sense of ease settles in.
Aman’s arrival in Bangkok could have been louder. But that would have missed the point entirely. Instead, it ofers a quieter kind of hospitality – one that listens more than it speaks. One that feels as though it was always here, just waiting to be found. aman.com
GRAND PLANS, COOL CROWDS
Cafés, culture, and a rooftop pool, Vienna’s past glows, but its present pops
Vienna is a city of dualities – where Mozart and Mahler still linger in the air, but so do record store DJs, rooftop pools and natural wine. This summer, explore its two faces: old-world glamour at Rosewood Vienna and modern cool at The Hoxton, in a capital where the past and future live side by side
ROSEWOOD VIENNA
A Grand revival of imperial elegance
Vienna is a city that can dance to both an old, and new, beat –where Strauss’ serenades echo through Baroque concert halls while galleries crop up in former industrial buildings. In the heart of this cultural layering sits Rosewood Vienna, a hotel that doesn’t simply acknowledge the city’s imperial past – it elevates it.
Occupying a 19th-century neoclassical building on Petersplatz –one of the city’s most prestigious squares – Rosewood Vienna brings a new level of grandeur to Austria’s capital. Once a fnancial institution and now a hotel that feels more like a private residence, the building’s transformation has been executed with restraint, reverence and beauty. Original architectural details have been lovingly restored, from grand staircases and ornate ceilings to arched windows and gilded fnishes. The result is something few properties in Vienna achieve: historic authenticity paired with fve-star polish and modern comfort.
The location alone makes it a destination. Step outside and you’re moments from the Hofburg Palace, the Vienna State Opera, and the city’s fabled cofee houses – where tuxedoed waiters still serve melange and strudel on silver trays. This is the Vienna of Klimt, Freud and Mahler – of salons and symphonies, and winter balls. And Rosewood places you at its epicentre.
But inside, things are more relaxed – hushed rather than showy, elegant rather than opulent. The 99 rooms and suites feature subtle nods to imperial style – herringbone parquet, crown moulding, custom upholstered headboards – paired with contemporary art, clean-lined furniture and rich textures in leather and velvet. Everything feels cosy, tactile, just where you want to be after a day exploring, because Vienna needs to be explored. It’s classic without being dated, luxurious without
being overwrought led, by Austrian heritage company Backhausen, pioneers of the Wiener Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) movement.
The hotel’s Asaya Spa, housed in the rooftop eaves, is an oasis above the city’s rooftops, ofering treatments that marry Austrian wellness traditions with international techniques. Downstairs, Neue Hoheit – the rooftop brasserie and bar – ofers sweeping views of Vienna’s skyline, with a modern menu that nods to Austria’s culinary traditions. Think veal schnitzel and smoked trout with horseradish cream – served alongside natural wines and local gin cocktails. In summer, the rooftop terrace becomes a destination in its own right. Breakfast is served here, sun dappling through, onto glossy pastries, bowls of bircher museli and cold cuts.
Yet, for all its refnement, there’s an ease to Rosewood Vienna that sets it apart from its Viennese competitors. Staf are warm, intuitive and discreet, ofering recommendations for opera tickets one minute and a little-known wine bar the next. This is a hotel that blends the ceremony of old Vienna with the hospitality of the modern age.
Whether you’re in town for the music season, a design fair, or just to trace the footsteps of Freud and Empress Sisi, Rosewood Vienna is the address to check into. It captures the soul of the city – its quiet grandeur, its ritual and romance – and reinterprets it for today.
@rosewoodvienna
From left: Cinematic views across the city; Wiener schnitzel, a must for any traditionalist; the Royal Graben House suite
Opening page: The Hoxton Vienna lobby; Michaelertrakt at the Hofburg
Clockwise from top: Vollpension in the Freihaus district; the Kafeesiederball at the Hofburg; ornate Michaelerplatz; Gänsehäufel beach pool, Old Danube
Photography by Mafalda Rakoš; Paul Bauer; Peter Rigaud via WienTourismus
THE HOXTON VIENNA
A new beat in the old city
If Rosewood Vienna is the city’s salon – elegant, storied, steeped in imperial charm – then The Hoxton Vienna is the artist’s studio across town, where the paint is still drying and the music plays late into the night.
Tucked into the third district (Landstraße, a little east of the postcard-ready centre, The Hoxton Vienna marks a new energy in the Austrian capital. The hotel opened this summer in the Erste Group’s former headquarters, a striking 1950s modernist pile reimagined as a buzzing, design-forward stay. From the moment I arrived – dodging e-scooters and strolling past vintage furniture shops and bakeries – it was clear this wasn’t a part of Vienna content to stay in the past. This was a living, breathing city – and The Hoxton had dropped right into the middle of it.
Inside, the vibe is unmistakably Hoxton. The lobby buzzes with a local crowd tapping away on laptops, framed by futed wood walls, vintage lighting and Vienna-specifc artwork. There’s a co-working table, a cofee bar, DJ booth, and people actually hanging out – which, in a city known more for opera than oat lattes, feels refreshingly current. The interiors channel midcentury cool: parquet foors, curved corners, warm tones and a nostalgic palette that echoes the building’s post-war past. But it’s playful too – hotel room keys come with cheeky sayings, minibars are stocked with Austrian snacks, and there’s a little booklet in every room with hot tips for exploring the ‘other’ Vienna.
Upstairs, (charming, but small) rooms range from Shoebox to Roomy. Make sure to secure the latter (the largest on ofer) which have perfect city views. The bathrooms are all Crittall-style glass and terrazzo foors, and there’s a curated vinyl selection and turntable in some – a nod to Vienna’s music scene beyond Mozart.
You step of the street and into another world – one that belongs,
What makes the hotel stand out, though, are its unexpected public spaces. There’s Bouvier, the signature restaurant, serving NYCAustrian bistro plates (Bouvier’s House Chicken Schnitzel and a glass of Grüner Veltliner is a perfect combination), and the in-house café, Cafè, which spills out onto the street and draws a steady stream of locals for early cofees and late-afternoon spritz. But the crown jewel is Coco Cabana, the rooftop pool and bar. Open until late, it’s where you’ll fnd the city’s creative set soaking up the last rays over rum cocktails and disco edits. One evening I found myself shoulder to shoulder with a local architect and a Berlin-based DJ –debating which was the best vintage store in town.
Like all Hoxtons, the brand DNA is consistent – open-house vibes, city-specifc details, a neighbourhood-frst ethos – but this Vienna outpost feels particularly timely. The Austrian capital, long romanticised for its tradition and tempo, is having a creative moment. Galleries, cofee shops and collectives are flling old buildings with new ideas. Hoxton has given them a place to meet.
For travellers, this means access. To conversations, exhibitions, and a version of Vienna that doesn’t just look backward, but forward. The imperial grandeur will always be there – and Rosewood, just across the city, is the perfect place to immerse yourself in it. But The Hoxton Vienna? That’s where the future of the city is unfolding. thehoxton.com
Aman’s frst urban outpost in Thailand sits at the edge of the Chao
From left: The vibrant lobby; mid-century bedrooms come in rich jewel tones; the hotel’s auditorium hosts live and private events
CULTURAL MOMENT
ABU DHABI IN FOCUS
Abu Dhabi steps into the spotlight with a new Assouline book and a cultural scene that’s growing, glowing, and all its own
Abu Dhabi has long played the quieter sibling to Dubai’s high-octane energy – but a new book from Assouline is reframing the capital in a diferent light. Abu Dhabi Bright , the latest release in the publishing house’s Travel Series, ofers a richly photographed, colour-drenched portrait of the UAE capital – from its modernist architecture and desert landscapes to its coastal calm and contemporary fair. A visual ode to the city’s distinct rhythm, the book captures Abu Dhabi’s understated elegance and deeprooted identity – one shaped by heritage, design, and an enduring sense of place.
But this is more than a cofee-table keepsake. It lands at a moment when Abu Dhabi’s cultural momentum is quietly – and confdently – gathering speed. On Saadiyat Island, Louvre Abu Dhabi continues to impress, now joined by the Natural History Museum and teamLab Phenomena, the immersive digital art collective’s largest permanent home. Elsewhere, the opening of Les Roches Global Hospitality Education in the city marks a bold push into educational soft power and tourism leadership –cultivating a new generation of Emirati hosts and visionaries.
As the UAE capital charts its next chapter, it’s doing so on its own terms – slower, yes, but arguably more soulful. With Abu Dhabi Bright , Assouline invites us to see the city not just as a destination, but as a cultural force – evolving with intent, and shining in its own, singular way.
Assouline Abu Dhabi Bright is available in stores and online now; assouline.com. Photography by Natalie Lines and Department of Culture and Tourism - Abu Dhabi
Clockwise from top: The courtyard entrance to the Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara, A falcon show at the resort; statues on show at the Louvre Abu Dhabi; Beautiful coloured marble was used to craft the foral wall decorations at the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
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Volume V...
Ski season returns, under-stated yet elegant places with pistes; shoulder season travel; a long weekend in Rajasthan, winter in Ibiza and the south of France
