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A riveting vision of Hell in a sweet little corner of Holland: Artist Hieronymus Bosch's hometown commemorates 500 years since his death

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Hieronymus Bosch’s home town is celebrating art and imagination Visions Of Genius exhibition. features almost all of his surviving works Tunnels in the canals in Den Bosch in the Netherlands to be transformed

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A giant’s head protrudes from an archway, his mouth underwater and huge hooked nose mirrored in the still canal. On the opposite bank a horrible, cloaked creature with a bird’s-skull head plucks menacingly on his harp as we glide by.

So, when our boat rounds the next bend and I come face-to-feet with the naked figure of a man being swallowed by a blue monster with a copper cauldron on his head for a helmet, I am ready for the shock.

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The narrow network of waterways in the little city of Den Bosch in the south of the Netherlands passes under its streets, and this year the tunnels are being transformed by cunning audio-visuals into the fiery furnace of the damned, writhing with tortured souls – all of which you can experience in the course of a Heaven And Hell cruise.

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The narrow network of waterways in Den Bosch in the south of the Netherlands passes under its streets, and this year the tunnels are being transformed by cunning audio-visuals into the fiery furnace of the damned

The bizarre creatures you’ll encounter have all leapt and crept from the paintings of Hieronymus Bosch, the artist famous for his vivid depictions of the diabolical consequences of sin.

And to commemorate 500 years since Bosch’s death in 1516, his home town is celebrating the history of art’s wildest imagination.

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The main attraction is the Hieronymus Bosch – Visions Of Genius exhibition. It features almost every one of his surviving works, 17 paintings and 19 drawings of saints and sinners, angels and demons, which have been gathered from all over the world for the first time.

This unique show will move on to Madrid’s Prado in May. The exhibition had me gripped, drawn into the goings-on in the triptychs and panels. It is a must-see, but there are many other reasons to visit Den Bosch.

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A riveting vision of Hell in a sweet little corner of Holland: Artist Hieronymus Bosch's hometown commemorates 500 years since his death Howzat that for a view!... the Victoria Falls we mean not Blowers in a waterproof poncho

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Intriguing: Visitors can take a canal tour to see Bosch characters including this bizarre creation

The preserved, fortified medieval city is putting on a dazzling son et lumiere show in the Market Square, projecting images from Bosch’s works on to the house where he was born, his studio and his statue, every evening until December.

I also took the chance to climb a scaffolding staircase, 100ft up the side of St John’s cathedral, to view the moss-covered gargoyles and the statues of buffoons, imps and fretful souls adorning the building.

The faces may be gruesome, but the views of the step-gabled roofs, church spires and the marshes beyond are wonderful, little changed since the days when Bosch was working on altarpieces during the cathedral’s construction.

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Another earthly delight to tempt visitors is the local speciality, Bossche Bol a giant profiterole with a hard, dark chocolate shell and a soft, sweet, creamy centre

If you don’t have a head for heights, you can see some of the original roof statues in the museum next door.

Den Bosch is an hour from Amsterdam by train. I stayed in a loft-style boutique hotel, the Duke, with 17 rooms on the third floor of a former post office within earshot of the cathedral bells ringing at the end of the street. Market Square is at the other end, and smart shops and lively bars are within a short stroll.

Another earthly delight to tempt visitors is the local speciality, Bossche Bol, a giant profiterole with a hard, dark chocolate shell and a soft, sweet, creamy centre.

Go on, be a devil, and try one – you don’t have to finish it!

TRAVEL FACTS Hieronymus Bosch – Visions Of Genius runs until May 8 at the Noordbrabants Museum. To book, go to tickets.hnbm.nl. For details of the Bosch 500 year-long programme of events, visit bosch500.nl.

The Duke Hotel (thedukehotel.nl) has double rooms from about £100, including breakfast.

British Airways (ba.com) offers flights to Amsterdam from Heathrow, Gatwick and London City with return fares starting at £71. For further information, go to holland.com.

Read more: Book Flights, Holidays & Check In Online | British Airways Online tickets Jheronimus Bosch tentoonstelling | Het Noordbrabants Museum

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The Duke Boutique Hotel in Den Bosch

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