1111 Lincoln Road car park in Miami doubles as a gallery for the Art Basel Miami Beach art fair
cultural intelligence Miami Marlins baseball stadium. There are works by Joan Miró, Roy Lichtenstein and Larry Rivers, and every time the Marlins slug a home run, a towering sculpture by Red Grooms becomes a flashing riot of giant flamingos and leaping fish out in the left field. The newest star in town is the Pérez Art Museum Miami (PAMM), a gorgeous, pale Herzog & de Meuron pavilion anchoring a 29-acre, sculpture-dotted cultural park on Biscayne Bay. Collector Jorge M Pérez handed over $35 million to bag the naming rights – but you don’t need to be rich to enjoy America’s seaside art paradise. WHERE TO eat Area 31 (area31restaurant.com) offers 16th-floor views as fine as its fusion cooking. Versailles (versaillesrestaurant.com) is the self-proclaimed ‘World’s Most Famous Cuban restaurant’, and has provided bargain feasting for more than 40 years. WHERE TO STAY Stay in an art hotel, such as the glamorous W South Beach (wsouthbeach.com) or the 92-suite Sagamore (sagamorehotel.com), which hosts Cricket Taplin’s extensive contemporary collection. don’t miss Take a Miami art walk (artofmiami.com/ events-4/art-walks). Wynwood is the most famous but there are others every weekend.
MIAMI
cities of culture Combine a little substance with your stay at these newly invigorated destinations, boasting inspiring art, compelling museums and impressive architecture
it’s a cool new player on the global cultural stage, as Norman Miller discovers Once a city famous for Miami Vice, seafront Deco and émigré Cubans, Miami is emerging as a new must-visit destination for fans of modern art. Art hotels, such as the W South Beach, come adorned with Warhol, Hirst and Basquiat, and even car parks get in on the act; 1111 Lincoln Road (above) was designed by European architects Herzog & de Meuron, and is used as a hip venue for the December arts extravaganza, Art Basel Miami Beach. It was this offshoot of the prestigious Swiss art fair that established Miami’s place on the global cultural stage. Jostling with art dealers and collectors, I eye the creative outpourings from 4,000 artists, and observe affluent buyers swan into the most desirable events. But I’m happy unwinding with outdoor films in SoundScape Park,
sprawled on a recliner, as the mammoth screen flickers beneath the night sky. I stretch my legs on the famous Miami art walk around Wynwood, an industrial neighbourhood turned art mecca, courtesy of more than 70 contemporary art spots, and share opinions with other ambling aesthetes by the Wynwood Walls street-art showcase. In the land of individualism, it’s no surprise that Miami is home to outstanding private collections, such as the Margulies Collection at the Warehouse and the Rubell Family Collection. My favourite is the de la Cruz Collection, where Latin American stars such as Gabriel Orozco, Arturo Herrera and Ana Mendieta are highlights of a body of work that proves contemporary art can be beautiful as well as clever. Plus it’s free and in the hip Design District. Contemporary art lovers tired of white-walled galleries should visit the
Wynwood Art District, Miami
Travel info British Airways, American Airlines and Virgin Atlantic fly regularly to Miami. Return fares start at £450. Miami Tourism: miamiandbeaches.com
The imposing façade of Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam
AMSTERDAM
this is the year to visit the vibrant city, says Suzanne King, as its key museums reopen after years of renovation If you’ve never visited Amsterdam (or haven’t been for a while), now’s the time to go. With its three landmark museums, the Rijksmuseum, Stedelijk and Van Gogh, fully opened following major building work and restoration, the city started 2014 in better cultural shape than ever. The first golden rule for any museumbound visitor? Book tickets in advance and get there early if you want to admire the artworks in relative calm. Allowing myself a lie-in on day one is a rookie mistake, and I end up viewing the paintings in the Van Gogh Museum through a forest of other people’s iPads and cameraphones. Lesson learned, I’m up bright and early for the Rijksmuseum next day, and the reward is a mere handful of people in front of the Rembrandts and Vermeers. Without the coach parties, it’s also easier to enjoy the biggest artwork of all: the building itself, especially the Great Hall and Gallery of Honour. Austerely whitewashed during a 1920s renovation, their interiors have now been recreated in all their original glory – considered so excessively ornate by a staunchly Protestant King William III that he refused to step foot in the building. Leaving the museum, I head to the Spiegelkwartier, heart of the city’s art and
antiques trade, where you can windowshop for anything from old Delft tiles and 17th-century oil paintings to a Warhol print or Picasso vase. There’s equally interesting mooching to be done in the Nine Streets, the former leather-tanning area, with its mix of specialist shops – try Laura Dols for vintage clothes and accessories or De Kaaskamer for hundreds of different cheeses. Tipped off by a local, I end the afternoon at the Stadsarchief, once the country’s largest bank and now home to the city archives. In the former vaults, evocative old photos, historic documents and maps are displayed in the extraordinary Art Deco surroundings of a grand, columned hall, with glass-tile mosaics on floors and ceilings, and wrought-iron chandeliers overhead. It’s unusual, atmospheric and fascinating – and so far off the usual tourist trail, there’s not a single other person in sight. So I take my time – after all, it’s not every day you get a museum to yourself. WHERE TO eat Head to the NH Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky (nh-hotels.com) for a cut-above brunch, served in the impressive 19th-century The Great Hall of the Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam
John Lewis edition 125