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Bosch 500 Year

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Saturday 13, February 2016

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Bosch 500 Year

Den Bosch: On the trail of Hieronymus Bosch in his Dutch home town

"Den Bosch is one of those neat little Dutch towns - like Haarlem or Delft - in which you feel instantly relaxed"

By Nick Trend 13 FEBRUARY 2016 • 7:00AM

H

ad he lived another 500 years, Hieronymus Bosch would, I think, have been shocked by what had happened to his home town; disappointed too that the surreal, hellish punishment regime which he depicted in his extraordinary altarpieces had not acted as a sufficient deterrent against self-indulgence and sin.

• The Rijksmuseum's 10 best paintings Gluttony and lechery were two of the deadly sins which - along with avarice - that Bosch seems to have enjoyed depicting most. And ironically the town - s’Hertogenbosch or Den Bosch - is best known in Holland today both for its ability to hold a good party and for its restaurants and culinary reputation. Carnival, which finished with a noisy flourish this week, is here celebrated with gusto; and the favourite local indulgence is the Bosch bol . This is a sort of outsize profiterole - a spherical confection of sugar, chocolate and cream, which is as deliciously self-indulgent as it sounds. But then, its a long time since a genuine Bosch painting has been seen the town, so perhaps the impact of his dire warnings to sinners has faded over the centuries.

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Bosch 500 Year

• The best books about Holland All that is about to change, however. The town has pulled off an extraordinary coup: to mark the 500th anniversary of Bosch’s death in 1516 it has managed to gather together 17 of his 24 surviving works in a unique exhibition which opens in the city’s museum on Saturday. Probably not even Bosch himself saw so many of his works together at one time.

"Gluttony and lechery were two of the deadly sins which - along with avarice - that Bosch seems to have enjoyed depicting most"

The only sadness is that his most famous triptych, The Garden of Earthly Delights, is too fragile - or precious - to make the journey from its home in the Prado in Madrid. In fact, the whole exhibition will move to the Prado in May, so you could travel to see it in Spain, but it seems perverse, if you are interested in Bosch’s work, not to make the pilgrimage to his home town and see the show there. It’s certainly a pleasant place to enjoy a night or two to frame a visit to what is certain to be one of the outstanding art exhibitions of 2016.

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Bosch 500 Year

The town has managed to gather together 17 of his 24 surviving works in a unique exhibition

Den Bosch is one of those neat little Dutch towns - like Haarlem or Delft - in which you feel instantly relaxed. There are not quite so many stepped gables - they like them levelled off in Den Bosch - and many of the canals are covered, running under the houses, rather than between them, but the pedestrianised cobbled streets have that same sense of history on a human scale.

• The Mauritshuis's 10 best paintings The old town is formed of an axis between the great market square - where Bosch lived as a boy (the house is now a souvenir shop), and where he later kept a studio - and St John’s cathedral which overlooks is own shady square, the Parade. At pace, you could walk across it in five or ten minutes, but somehow you don’t want to. The streets are lined with tempting-looking restaurants and cafes, and a colleague who knows about these things told me that, from a shopping point of view it plays a strong hand too. And there are just enough cultural and architectural sights to spice up the mix (though I might give the museum of butchery a miss, unless it is a particular interest of yours).

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Bosch 500 Year

Jheronimus Bosch, Adoration of the Magi, ca. 1470-80

So what - apart from a touch of gluttony - would Bosch have made of his home town if he were to come back today? He would certainly have recognised the market square, though most of the houses and shops have been rebuilt over the intervening centuries.

He might - if he took one of the canal tours offered to visiting tourists - have been a little disconcerted by the garish fibreglass models of some of his more monstrous creations which have been installed at various points on the banks. He would however have been fascinated, and no doubt gratified that the religious guild - the Confraternity of the Illustrious Lady, of which he was a member - was still surviving. The lodge was rebuilt in the middle of the 19th century - in 16th-century style - and it has adapted some of its traditions. But it still operates as a charitable and religious institution - king Willem Alexander is an honorary member - and you can call in to visit the little museum and wood-panelled meeting rooms.

Beautiful drone footage shows Holland's tulip fields from above 03:27

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Bosch 500 Year

But he would have felt most at home, and most excited, to see what had happened to the cathedral - one of the last great gothic churches to be built in Europe. The old church had been razed in about 1380 and progress on the ambitious new structure was painfully slow. During Bosch’s lifetime (he was born in about 1450), he would have witnessed the nave rise from ground level, and the completion of highly ornate chapel bankrolled by the Confraternity of the Illustrious Lady for which he probably painted the altarpiece (two panels by him are in the current exhibition). But, by the time he died, the nave roof was still not in place. It was finally finished in the decade after his death, and he would, I’m sure, have loved the chance - which is available to visitors this year from April-October - to climb the scaffold and enjoy the view from, and of, the roof.

What he would see today has been much restored - most of the statuary and paintings were destroyed during the Reformation. But he would at least have been gratified that this part of southern Holland reverted back to Catholicism in the 17th century, and the church adheres more closely to the traditions of which Bosch was such a great exponent.

• Amsterdam: what to see and do in winter While Bosch’s religious convictions are clear, his art remains largely a mystery. What inspired his weirdly surreal imagery - those strange transformations and inversions of scale and function, of the organic and the concrete the giant flowers which become buildings, enormous birds devouring men, the lobster claw transformed into a weird plant? The images of burning cities, the backdrop to several of his versions of Hell, probably derive from a conflagration which consumed much of the city when he was in his early teens, and the few drawings which survive (and which are also in the exhibition) reveal a fascination for human deformity.

• Cycling in Holland: 10 of the best routes But, for me, the moment - outside of the exhibition - when I felt closest to the spirit of Bosch and his weird world, was in the little museum next to the cathedral. Here are gathered some of the few surviving late 15th-century sculptures and gargoyles which were once on the church roof. They are badly eroded, but a couple of two-legged, potbellied web-footed monsters caught my eye - one with the head of a dragon, the other that of a man. They date from about 1500 - when Bosch was at his peak. He would certainly have known the masons at work on them, and they were just the sort of fabulous beasts of which would most have appealed to him and I’m sure he would have been delighted to make their acquaintance again, five hundred years later.

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Saturday 13, February 2016

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Bosch 500 Year

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Jheronimus Bosch, Saint John on Patmos, ca. 1490-95

Den Bosch essentials Hieronymus Bosch, Visions of Genius continues at the Noordbabants Museum until May 8. Book online at tickets.hnbm.nl. Full details of the 500th anniversary and the events associated with it are at bosch500.nl • The cheapest way from London to Amsterdam Nick Trend travelled to den Bosch with Visit Holland (holland.com). The city is just over an hour from Amsterdam Schipol airport (served by klm.com, ba.com and easyjet.com from many London and regional airports) on a half-hourly rail service. He stayed at the Duke Hotel (thedukehotel.nl/en) - a converted warehouse with 17 rooms from about £120, room only.

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