Simply Vegetables Spring 2017

Volume 23 Part 2 £3.99

N 50 Years and Still Growing

the quarterly magazine of the National Vegetable Society SPRING 2017

From the kitchen

A year of reflection PAGE 28

PAGE 10

The outdoor classroom PAGE 19

Biological control PAGE 35

Alternative growing PAGE 50

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vegetables

....55 years and still growing

The Quarterly Magazine of the National Vegetable Society Volume 23 Part 2 Spring 2017 National President Medwyn Williams MBE AHRHS FNVS 01248 714851 e-mail: medwyn@llanor.fsnet.co.uk or medwynsofanglesey.co.uk

the team

Charity registered 1088979 National Chairman John Branham, FNVS 01296 681307 e-mail: johnbranham@btinternet.com

Sandra Hall, FNVS Chairman Midland Branch 01952 541396

General Secretary Fiona Shenfield FNVS 01592 890284 fcshome@talktalk.net

Ivor Mace Welsh Branch Rep

Assistant Secretary Mark Hall BEM FNVS 07768 290122

David Metcalfe FNVS Chairman, Northern Branch 01282 614429 davidforleeks@gmail.com

Treasurer Denis Barry Bsc (ED) FNVS 01633 440905 denisbarry@btinternet.com

Marion Neden Southern Brach Rep. marionneden2017@gmail.com

Membership Registrar Branches Neil Hope FNVS 01932 844183 neil_hope@hotmail.com

Ian Simpson

Gareth Cameron FNVS Scottish Branch Sponsorship Manager 07935 117397 garethattheplot@hotmail.co.uk

DVD Distribution Executive Gordon Francis FNVS 01622 710486 gordonjfrancis@googlemail.com

Ian Clemens Chairman Southern Branch 01403 751676 ianclemens@tiscali.co.uk

Emily Plumb FNVS nvswebmaster@outlook.com

John Croot FNVS Secretary Northern Branch 01773 834213 j.croot@btinternet.com

Chairman of the Judges Examination Board Jim Williams FNVS 01875 320644 jimtwilliams@yahoo.co.uk

01443 775531 ivormace@hotmail.com

Sub-Editor: Michael Osborn 01282 863351 e-mail: michael.osborn2@ntworld.com Midland Branch Sub-Editor: Mick Poultney FNVS 07815 630811 e-mail: mickypoultney@hotmail.com Southern Branch Sub-Editor: Peter Cranfield 01279 850511 e-mail: peter.cranfield@Care4free.net Welsh Branch

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Sub-Editor: Fiona Shenfield FNVS 01592 890284 e-mail: fcshome@talktalk.net Northern Branch

National Vice Chairman Grant Cathro FNVS 01382 580394 jgrant.cathro@sky.com

Arwyn Edwards Vice Chairman, Welsh Branch 01267 253363 edwards.arwyn@gmail.com

Articles, notices, meetings etc relative to your Branch and DA should be sent to the sub-editors below.

Scottish Branch

01592 890284 fcshome@talktalk.net

Sub-Editor: Ivor Mace 01443 775531 e-mail: ivormace@hotmail.com NVS Ireland Editor: Michael Gordon 086871 3359 e-mail: m_gordon100@hotmail.com

and finally, myself…

National Magazine Editor Kelvin Mason Amasca, 7 Fifehead Cottages, Salisbury Lane, Middle Wallop, Stockbridge, Hampshire, SO20 8JN Tel: 01264 781684 E-mail: kelvin.mason@sparsholt.ac.uk …to whom all articles for inclusion in the magazine should be sent. July 2017 edition – deadline for submissions to Kelvin: 12th May 2017 simplyvegetables 3

uk

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contents Chairman’s Thoughts...................................................................................................................................5

Kitchen Garden and the National Vegetable Society – together helping the nation to grow better vegetables

News from the Trustees by Mark Hall BEM, FNVS.......................................................................................6 Kelvin’s Comments......................................................................................................................................8 From the Kitchen by Linda & Mary.............................................................................................................10 The 1916 Garden by Micheal Gordon........................................................................................................12 Growing Nuts by Gerry Edwards FNVS......................................................................................................14 Getting started in the Greenhouse – part 6 by Kelvin Mason......................................................................16 The Outdoor Classroom by Rowland Bostock...........................................................................................19

12

Ditch the watering can! by Ian Stocks FNVS..............................................................................................20 Growing Well by James Smith...................................................................................................................22 Seasonal Jobs by Derek Brooks FNVS......................................................................................................24 A year of reflection in the life of an active DA by David Allison FNVS...........................................................28 Plant Families by Derek Brooks FNVS........................................................................................................32 New Special Competition for 2017............................................................................................................34 Biological Control by Kelvin Mason............................................................................................................35

24

Aphids and Related Pests By Derek Brooks FNVS.....................................................................................40 Mildew by Derek Brooks FNVS..................................................................................................................42 Weeds by Derek Brooks FNVS..................................................................................................................44 Scottish Branch.......................................................................................................................................48 Northern Branch......................................................................................................................................54 Midlands Branch.....................................................................................................................................57

42

Southern Branch.....................................................................................................................................60 Welsh Branch..........................................................................................................................................63

Easter Sculpture Festival and Quilting Exhibition: 14-17 April

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www.bris.ac.uk/botanic-garden • University of Bristol Botanic Garden Stoke Park Road BS9 1JG • Tel: 0117 428 2041

University of Bristol Botanic Garden

www.nvsuk.org.uk UoB.indd 1

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Published by Crest Publications, 1 Rothwell Grange Court, Rothwell Road, Kettering, Northants NN16 8FB Telephone: 01536 317000 • Email: jayne@crestpublications.com The views expressed by the authors/contributors are not necessarily those of the editor, the Society, or its officers.

MEMBERS IMPORTANT NOTICE There is a request from the Trustees of the National Executive Committee that any member not wishing to have their names and personal contact details appearing in NVS media, such as Directory, website or Simply Vegetables should contact the National Secretary. This will mainly affect NVS Officers, Judges and Lecturers and there have been cases where members have received unwanted email, where potentially their address has been obtained from NVS media. The NVS does have an annual certificate of cover from ICO (Information Commission Office), which can protect its members from unauthorised contact by individuals and organisations acting without NVS permission. Action can and will be taken against such activities on behalf of the member if required. The Trustees are always seeking ways of reducing running costs of the Society and improving the services and information

provided to its members. One such way is attracting on-line advertising from carefully screened, reputable and relevant companies in the horticultural sector with paid-for advertising in NVS media and also support of other activities through sponsorship. Where such companies request reciprocal membership data for the purpose of direct mailing, the Trustees will consider each case on its merit and release the data if appropriate. If any member does not wish to be added to these data please contact the National Secretary.

Fiona Shenfield FNVS, General Secretary

COMPETITION TERMS AND CONDITIONS Competitions are open to all UK residents aged 18 or over, excluding employees or agents of the associated publishing company and their families. One entry per person. The prizes and giveaways are as specified on the relevant pages. No

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cash alternatives. Entries must be via post or email as stated (no purchase necessary). Illegible entries and those that do not abide by these terms and conditions will be disqualified.

No responsibility is held for entries lost, delayed or damaged in the post, proof of posting is not proof of delivery. Your details will be processed by Crest Publications (publishers of Simply Vegetables magazine on behalf of the NVS) in full accordance with data protection. Crest Publications may wish to contact you with information of other services we provide which maybe of interest. Please indicate on your entry if you DO NOT wish to receive such information by post, phone or email. The decision of the judge is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Winners will be notified by phone, email or post, a list of winners is available on request from Crest Publications, 1 Rothwell Grange Court, Rothwell Road, Kettering, Northamptonshire NN16 8FB.

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Chairman’s Thoughts John Branham, FNVS This my second Chairman’s Thoughts and starts once again with the weather. We in Bucks have had the benefits of hard frosts, so much so that the pond was iced over for some while.

Although we have had only a little snow it has been enough to see the trail of rabbits, foxes, badgers and muntjac deer through the garden. The one that does the most damage is the Muntjac, an introduction from abroad in the 1800’s, it has spread over most of the country and is very common in my area. The Chinese Water Deer also can often be seen, another introduction in the late 1800’s. The Muntjac loves eating roses in the Spring, trimming all the new young growth back, tulips are eaten off flush with the soil as soon as they are a few inches high and worst of all they trim off all the ends of the wall trained fig that they can reach which means they take off the area where the new figs are forming. To walk down and see nice fresh white ends on all the young growth is to say the least frustrating.

The white fly on the brussels and purple sprouts seem to be at a very low level this season, did the frost have anything to do with this? I don’t really know and if any of our readers have definite views on this please write in and tell us about it.

January saw all the Trustees turn up for the meeting and great credit must be given to them all as the weather was very doubtful with a promise of snow, ice etc. but all made the effort and a lively meeting discussed the issues of the Society. (see News from the Trustees article for details of the meeting Ed.) As Chairman reading through many of the old handbooks I realised that there was no consolidated record of our Society and as Jill, my wife, is in the local archive Heritage Society in our village and seeing the interest that arose from that I thought we should do something similar. Grant Cathro has kindly agreed to organise and compile some of the history of the NVS. (If members have any interesting information please contact Grant or send him the details.

Grants’ contact information is on The Team page Ed.) I was astonished to read that in 1903 a National Potato Society with shows was formed and it lasted about eighteen months and was reformed as the National Vegetable Society which disappeared after a short period and as we know finally reappeared in 1960 and has flourished since.

I often go out doing talks for gardening clubs usually vegetables for the table all the year round and take as props what we are growing and eating on that day. The first thing after the introduction is how many in the audience (20 – 60 usually) have heard of the NVS the answer is nearly always a

disappointing 5%. I then explain who we are and I take great care to take a mixture of show vegetables and what I call house vegetables. The show vegetables often produce the comment can you eat them then when assured yes, they are all OK, and I say long carrots are best in casseroles and carrot and orange soup at which point everyone settles down to realise our expertise on show vegetables means we have a big edge on producing better quality and more reliability in providing the house with fresh vegetables. The shortage of vegetables and costs associated with the inclement weather in Spain is not felt by a good grower on his allotment.

Cabbage for coleslaw, purple sprouts in place of broccoli, celeriac in salads with Black Spanish radish are all available to the keen grower. Beet leaves are readily available if you have put last year’s small ones in a compost filled flower pot. There are dozens of ways we can, with the skills within the Society, encourage and help those who are interested in becoming more self-sufficient.

My greenhouse is full at the moment with show leeks and onions and the early celery Victoria for Malvern Spring Show needing to be potted on. Space for house vegetables has always to be found early tomatoes Maskotka and Shirley are in three inch pots and the lunch box type cucumber Iznik going into five inch pots hopefully by the end of April the first fruits will be ready.

One of the perennial issues in the NVS is, are we a show society or a growing society which crops up endlessly. The answer is very complicated, many members show vegetables, we set a judges’ examination the successful judges surprise surprise, judge shows. The standard of our members exhibits at these shows is generally very good but first like tennis when I played in the local league if five people watched a match it was a surprise because when all is said and done the standard was, to be polite, average. When Murray plays thousands watch just like at shows 65,000 go to Malvern Show to see the best which is a superb advertisement for the NVS and it is up to us to help people improve our hobby and therefore make the NVS a name to recognise as the vegetable experts.

We should all remember before we criticise

The white fly on the brussels and purple sprouts seem to be at a very low level this season, did the frost have anything to do with this?

or complain about the NVS whether it be the way that it is run, the confusion about are we a show society or just a pure vegetable society is that our Society’s membership numbers are stable, we have a superb quarterly magazine, approximately 250 judges, numerous members who go out and do talks and hopefully an improved website this year. This speaks well as the majority of specialist societies have, in the last decade, seen a massive decline in membership and interest. I would ask all members to keep involved and carry on doing the good work.

Final Membership Reminder for 2017 For those who have not yet renewed their membership this will be the last edition of Simply Vegetables you will receive. If you have lost your renewal form there is one on page 7 that can be used or photocopied; or you can renew online via the website.

When renewing please send the form to the relevant Branch Membership Secretary as indicated on the right of page 7.

Trustee Vacancy There is still a position on the Board of Trustees that is vacant, this being a Media, Marketing and PR Executive. This is a post that needs to be filled and will make a big difference to moving the NVS forward. If you feel you have the skills and time to undertake this role please contact the Chairman, his details are on page 3. This is a high profile role within the NVS and will be the face of the organisation in the future. This will contribute to an increasing push to educate the public on Vegetables, both growing and cooking to encourage a healthier population.

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News from the Trustees Mark Hall BEM, FNVS National Assistant Secretary John Branham welcomed trustees to the meeting, it was noted that David Allison was standing in for David Metcalf who is recovering from a recent operation.

The minutes from the October meeting were agreed and accepted by trustees present.

Sandra Hall distributed items of old stock that has been financially written off to all branches, this could be used as promotional material for the society.

Fiona Shenfield reported that the update for the NVS directory is almost complete and ready for poof reading. She also informed trustees that the Public liability insurance and RHS membership had been renewed.

Dennis Barry had circulated a report prior to the meeting which he then went through.

His budget forecast for 2017 would leave the Trustees account with an estimated loss of 12k for the year, this was mainly due to the proposed cost of updating the current web site. In general Trustees agreed that Dennis had produced a good budget forecast.

Trustees noted that there is a large amount of money tied up in stock particularly the getting started books, if these could be sold it would release more cash. The treasurer commented that any sale of Trustees stock to branches needed a clear audit trail, supplier, purchaser and treasurer need copies of any stock transfers.

Neil Hope had sent out copies of his report prior to the meeting, of which he went through. Memberships are renewing well at the moment. Trustees where grateful to Robert Miller who will be doing the gift aid claim once Neil has sorted out the data for him.

Sandra Hall gave an update on progress so far for the 2017 National Championships to be held at Malvern on the weekend of 23rd &24th September.

The AGM will take place at 3.30 on the 23rd September. There will also be The InterBranch class this year which will take place using a wheel barrow and the same judging criteria as previously used in Scotland the last time the competition was held.

John Branham introduced the subject of

updating the society’s web site which followed on from the October meeting.

Having updated members on the current position, he suggested that each Branch could contribute according to their membership numbers.

The Southern and Midlands’s Branches confirmed they are willing to help fund the development of the web site, other Branches are still waiting for more information before they commit further.

Trustees agreed that each Branch should source a quotation for the web site based on the specification agreed, and tabled by Emily Plumb at the July meeting, confirmation of the forum workings would be needed from Emily to give an accurate quotation.

These quotations should be submitted in confidence to Emily only, who will collate and present to the next trustees meeting.

Ian Clemens reported that good progress is being made on the new judge’s guide, the page count could be reduced from the original estimate. Contributions to the new guide are being received from various people across the society Gareth Cameron reported on the sponsorship figures from all our sponsors, and gave a break down on how much each sponsor would be sponsoring us and what each of the Branches would receive. Trustees noted that Gareth would be responsible for collecting in sponsorship money, with Dennis Barry distributing money to the Branches.

Marshalls have agreed £500 Sponsorship; £100.00 for each Branch championship, for a Dish of 9 French Beans (seed supplied by Marshalls) to be awarded 1st £75.00 2nd £15.00 3rd £10.00 at Marshalls request.

Mark Hall reported that Jenny Hennessey (nee Worsfold) FNVS had passed away in Dec 2016. Jenny was one of the key members of the Strategic working group from the late 1990’s to early 2000’s. She over saw the creation of the web site, along with the society becoming a registered charity.

Kelvin Mason reported that he had the details of the contract with Crest who publish

our magazine for a further two years at no extra cost and on the same agreements as in the past. Trustees agreed for Kelvin to go ahead and renew the contract.

Kelvin also reported that there was still work to do on member’s profiles on The Team page, he also confirmed the following deadlines for SV publications.

April magazine – Deadline 10th Feb July magazine – Deadline 12th May October magazine – Deadline 11th Aug. Trustees agreed on the following meeting dates for 2017.

29th April 2017 24th June 2017 14th October 2017 Judges exam scheduled for 7th October 2017.

Gareth Cameron has been approached by D.T. Brown to see if it would be possible for 3 or 4 growers from each Branch to undertake some trail work for them.

Neil Hope pointed out that four NVS members would be serving on the RHS award of garden merit committee for vegetables this year.

John Branham had asked Grant Cathro if he was prepared to create an archive for the society, as nothing had been done previously.

There were no objections to this proposal. It is envisaged that Grant uses archive material to create articles of interest for the Simply vegetables magazine. (Please send any interesting information to Grant - Ed) It has been reported to the Trustees that the dates and locations of the NVS shows in the 2017 D.T.Brown catalogue are incorrect so please check the NVS web site for further details.

The National Secretary is in the process of updating the Directory and this should be completed by the next Trustees meeting.

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THE NATIONAL VEGETABLE SOCIETY APPLICATION/RENEWAL FORM

IMPORTANT!!

GIFT AID DECLARATION

Mr, Mrs Ms, Miss ������������������������������������������������������������������� (name)

Name of Charity:

Address �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������

THE NATIONAL VEGETABLE SOCIETY REGISTERED CHARITY NUMBER 1088979

Postcode �����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������

Details of donor:

Telephone �����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������

Title: .............. Forename(s): .....................................

Membership No. if renewal: ��������������������������������������������������������������

Surname: .................................................................

email: ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������

Address: ...................................................................

Please accept my application for membership of the National Vegetable Society for the period ending 31st December 2017. I enclose a cheque/postal order/standing order for £ ……………..

................................................................................. .................................................................................

Payable to The National Vegetable Society

Postcode:..................................................................

New members please complete and return to: Mr Neil Hope FNVS, 11 Sumner Place, Addlestone, Surrey, KT15 1QD

Telephone:.................................................................

Tel: 01932 844183, Email: neil_hope@hotmail.com If renewal, please send to the relevant Branch Membership Secretary as listed on the right MEMBERSHIP FEES Juniors (up to 16yrs).....£ 5.00 Affiliated Society.................. £19.00 Individuals....................£17.00 Educational Establishments.. £15.00 Couples........................£19.00 Society Medal & Card........... £ 7.60 Application and payment can be made via the NVS website www.nvsuk.org.uk under the “join the NVS” section, where there is a renewal form for existing members as well.

National Vegetable Society DVD Order Form PLEASE PRINT CLEARLY USING CAPITALS AND BLACK INK. THANK YOU. Your Name:..............................................................................................

Your Address:......................................................................................... ....................................................................................................................... .......................................................................................................................

Postcode:.................................................................................................

Telephone No:........................................................................................

Membership No:...................................................................................

Date:............................................................................................................

Post Completed Order to: Mr G J Francis FNVS, 147 Bull Lane, Eccles, Aylesford, Kent, ME20 7HW Tel: 01622 710486 Email: gordonjfrancis@googlemail.com Cost of DVDs = £5.99 each including postage and packing 1 DVD = £5.99 2 DVD’s = £11.98 3 DVD’s = £17.98 4 DVD’s = £23.98

Buy 5 DVDs get 6th one free = £29.95

Branch Membership Secretaries.

MIDLANDS Trevor Last, FNVS, Tel: 01603 868316 43 Carters Road, Drayton, Norwich, Norfolk, NR8 6DY e-mail: trevlast@tiscali.co.uk

Email: .......................................................................

I want the charity to treat (delete as appropriate) • my annual subscription • the enclosed donation of £ ………………

• all donations I have made since 22nd October 2011, and all donations I make from the date of this declaration until I notify you otherwise. as Gift Aid donations.

Signed: ………………………………………………

Date: …………………………………………………

DVD TITLE

Qty Req’d

NORTHERN Mrs Sheila Lewins, Tel: 01244 674609 39 St Marks Road, Saltney, Chester, Cheshire, CH4 8DE e-mail: Sheila_tom@hotmail.co.uk

On the Allotment With Stella & Peter Growing Exhibition Potatoes With Sherie Plumb FNVS Growing Exhibition Tomatoes With Charles Maisey FNVS Growing Exhibition Shallots With Graeme Watson FNVS

SCOTTISH Fred Stewart FNVS Tel: 01224 781309 Penny Lane, Redmyres, Portlethen, Aberdeenshire AB12 4RR

Growing Potatoes With Alistair Grey FNVS Growing Exhibition Carrots With Graeme Watson FNVS Growing Exhibition Onions With Jim Williams FNVS Growing Exhibition Celery With Trevor Last FNVS Growing Exhibition Blanch Leeks With John Soulsby

SOUTHERN. Neil Hope, FNVS, Tel: 01932 844183 11 Sumner Place, Addlestone, Surrey, KT15 1QD e-mail: neil_hope@hotmail.com

Growing Exhibition Pot Leeks With John Soulsby An Insight into Vegetable Showing With Trevor Last FNVS Compost Making with Mick Poultney and 2011 National Championships

NEW – Growing Exhibition Leeks

and Onions with Ivor Mace

Growing for Showing 2006 With T Last, John Branham & Gareth Cameron NVS National Show 2007 Malvern National Championships Dundee 2005 National Championships Pembroke 2006 Trio of Shows 2005 TOTAL NUMBER OF DVDs Ordered Cheque Payable National Vegetable Society Enclosed for AMOUNT

£

WELSH Mrs Mary Thomas, FNVS Tel: 01691 780420 Fron, LLanrhaeadr, Y.M. Powys, SY10 0JJ e-mail: maryfron2005@yahoo.co.uk

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Kelvin’s Comments At the time of writing (midFebruary) the winter has been very reasonable with mild weather until mid-January and then a cold frosty spell and a return to mild and very wet weather. I managed to get nearly all of my digging done over the Christmas break and the cold frosty weather has broken the surface soil to produce a nice crumb structure. This was lucky rather than good planning but is an advantage of getting your digging done early so that you can use the weather to your advantage.

I have also taken on another approx. half allotment which I manured as heavily as I could before digging to improve its structure and nutrient holding ability.

I have always known knowledge of soil to be fundamental knowledge that all good gardeners/growers should know if they are to be able to grow good crops. So I find it interesting that the AHDB (Agricultural and Horticultural Development Board) who are one of the government quangos who advise the professional growers are holding a series of seminars and events throughout the country to improve their knowledge of soils.

I would have thought they would have learnt that at college in their early careers, but it seems either they did not or have forgotten it.

The main problems these days is the use of heavy machinery, not only for soil preparation and sowing but also for harvesting. This damages the soil structure and leads to the formation of soil pans that reduces both drainage and root growth. This is particular the case when harvesting root crops late in the season when the soil is wet and the machinery very heavy.

The other main problem facing commercial growers is in the last 50 years they have made wide use of artificial fertilisers and not used enough organic matter to maintain the soil structure. You can get away without using organic matter for a few years and still get good crops, the growers did that, but sooner or later depending on your type of soil it catches up with you. The evidence that you need to add organic matter to the soil at regular intervals is now well proven; so get that compost heap working or chat up your local stable. It is unlikely you will add too much; even if you heavily manure every year it takes a good few years before you get problems through over manuring. It is unlikely you will get that much organic matter, if you do let me know how you do it as I can never get enough and I compost everything I get from whatever source.

Recently on Radio 4 there was a news item warning of a rise in food prices (you read it here first in one of my doom and gloom comments!). These price rises were owing to colder weather in Spain and

other Mediterranean countries which was increasing the price of salad items like lettuce. Some supermarkets were importing lettuce from California at vast expense.

Would I be a smart arse if I suggested people eat more seasonal vegetables or look in the freezer! Then only a few days later one of the national papers were reporting that prices would rise even further owing to a big freeze occurring in late February which would make it impossible to lift any root crops or harvest leeks or sprouts. Any grower worth his salt would lift extra crops if a big freeze was accurately predicted and the big growers get very accurate forecasts.

Now for my doom and gloom bit (thought you going to get away with it didn’t you!) I will predict that food prices will rise as we come out of the E.U. owing to the lower value of sterling, import tariffs, and the loss of cheap migrant labour for harvesting mainly but also some growing. E.U states like Holland and Spain will tend to sell their produce to other E.U states but are unlikely to forget the U.K as it is a good market for them. Do we need to be concerned? Not if you are an NVS member as you can grow your own, a good reason on its own to be a member! In the future sterling could move both ways and we will get used to what it does and it is up to our politicians to negotiate a good deal on tariffs. Regarding harvesting and to some extent growing I will predict that robots will do much of the work. Mechanisation will become even more

important than it is now and agriculture and horticulture are one of the most mechanised industries there is in the U.K. So what can we do about growing our own? First read Derek Brooks articles on what you should be doing in Seasonal jobs and get started in growing your own. At this time of the year it is busy sowing and planting to get those crops you will need later in the year. By the end of June, you should have no vacant areas in your garden, allotment, greenhouse or containers; it should all be full of crops. As any becomes vacant sow some salad or late crops into it.

In getting started in the greenhouse I cover growing cucumbers a relatively easy crop that you can still sow when you receive this magazine in April, so no excuses for not having home grown cucumbers later this year.

Gerry Edwards is looking more long term in this issue with the growing of nuts; a crop that we could grow more of if you have a decent sized garden or are allowed to have trees / bushes on your allotment.

Ian Stocks continues his articles on alternative growing with an excellent article on the Autopot system which overcomes the problem of poor or inconsistent watering and is something anyone, even the nongardeners of the population could use to grow their own fruit and vegetables. It looks a very interesting system and hopefully Ian will report back on how he gets on this year with it.

Base forked over

Leaf mould added

The main problems these days is the use of heavy machinery, not only for soil preparation and sowing but also for harvesting

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Soil removed

David Allison our previous editor has been tempted to put pen to paper (or did Michael Osborn lean on him!). David reflects on the year of an active DA and the type of activities they organise.

In From the Kitchen Mary and Linda have been busy preparing some tasty recipes to cook the vast amounts of produce you will be harvesting from the garden and allotment.

There is also a section on drying and preserving so that surplus produce can be kept until required.

I was pleased to receive a letter from a member about the early judge’s exam (see letters page) and also an article from a member about judging the outdoor classroom. We seem to have a very modest and shy membership so come on more of you can be brave and put pen to paper.

I am sure none of you need me to tell you that the number of chemicals available to control pests and diseases is getting smaller and will continue to do so in the future. This is partly owing to the cost of developing new chemicals, the rules and regulations covering getting them to market and the trend to greener growing.

Even many of the professional growers are moving over to Integrated Pest Management (IPM) so in this issue I cover some of the products available for the control of some of the main pests. More methods of IPM

will become available in the next few years, some are already available commercially and will become available to amateur growers in the next couple of years. Some are at the experimental stage and will be ready for marketing in a few years. These new products will give methods to control a wider range of pests and diseases.

James Smith writes about a community volunteer initiative in Cumbria that grows organic vegetables and helps people who are going through a period of mental difficulties.

With the current crisis in the National Health Service these types of initiatives are to be commended. There is very strong evidence that gardening and involvement with the natural environment is good for the mental health.

In the Outdoor Classroom Richard Bostock tells us about his involvement with a school in Newcastle under Lyme and their success in the in Bloom competition. If we are to encourage the gardeners and growers of the future this type of activity should be applauded. Many of our more mature and retired members could encourage and assist the youngsters of today to learn about gardening and growing and I am sure some do; but more could do.

Retirement is not about vegetating at home but remaining active and involved in the community and society.

The 1916 Garden gives a brief idea of what

Retirement is not about vegetating at home but remaining active and involved in the community and society

Soil replaced

gardening was like one hundred years ago in Ireland and the type of vegetables in the Irish diet then.

As mentioned earlier in these comments I finished my digging at the beginning of the year so decided to change the soil in my greenhouses this year. Although last year’s crops were reasonable I felt they had declined a bit from previous years. Both the tomatoes and cucumbers give a lower yield and the cucumbers stopped cropping earlier than usual. It is times like these that I wish I was more meticulous and kept good records rather than rely on memory which can play tricks on you.

Anyhow I decided that some fresh soil and organic matter would improve things for this year. I dug out the old soil to a spades depth, forked over the bottom and then added some well-rotted leaf mould I had made before barrowing some fresh soil from the vegetable garden. Hopefully my efforts will result in some improved crops this year.

We have a few new contributors in this magazine so please will more of you have a think and send something no matter how short. It makes the magazine far more interesting than my rants and we can all learn from each other. Many thanks to all contributors to this magazine.

Enjoy reading this magazine but don’t sit around too long as you should be out in the garden sowing and planting at this time of the year.

Kelvin

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From the Kitchen Linda & Mary

Drying This is one of the oldest methods of preserving and in the early days was used to preserve meats, fruits and vegetables.

They were dried in the outdoors making good use of free energy of the sun and wind. British climate obviously does not allow for this and together with the popularity of home freezing, the need for dried fruits and vegetables deteriorated.

Commercially all sorts of fruits, vegetables and herbs are dried using specially constructed machines that control the humidity, air and temperature as the commodity is being dried. They are useful standby store cupboard commodities, light to carry, easy to store and with a long shelf life. Amongst the most popular are dried herbs, onions, milk and various pulses. They can be added to all sorts of soup and stews or simply re-hydrated in boiling water to use as a side dish.

By removing the moisture, microorganisms are unable to grow, thus prolonging the life of the commodity. However, it is also equally important to store the dried food in air tight containers to prevent re- absorption of moisture from the air. This can be done in tight lidded jars and bottles. General rules apply here i.e. clean sterilised jars and lids.

The jars should then be stored in a dark cupboard to avoid discolouration by the light.

Personally, I find little need to dry any fruits

or vegetables in the home as freezing gives better results from the point of view of colour, flavour and nutritional content. However, old habits die hard and I do dry some herbs as I remember helping my mother drying sage for sage and onion stuffing through the winter months. To me, this still beats the ‘all the year round’ ones that can be bought growing in pots and also saves on valuable space in the freezer. I find small jars of dried herbs useful when making hampers for Christmas. Bay leaves, rosemary and other woody herbs are hardly worth drying as they are available all year in pots or a shady garden. Red Chillies are also easily dried and useful to use for Christmas whether in cooking or a part of decorations such as wreaths.

In the home, drying can be done outside or in a conservatory during hot summer months, but suitable conditions are very rare and not worth the hassle of covering with muslin cloths and carrying in at night as the temperature drops and out again over 3-4 days.

Drying can be done quite simply in the oven, with no special equipment necessary.

Temperature is the important rule here, too hot and the product cooks and shrivels and too cool microorganisms start growing. A temperature of 100°C is about perfect. A fan oven is ideal as air is circulated (mimicking the effect of wind) and a steady temperature is maintained. In a conventional oven, the door should be opened occasionally or left partially open to let out some of the steam. The food should also be turned occasionally during the drying process. To dry in a microwave oven, prepare the herbs as for conventional oven but place on a microwave proof plate. Dry in bursts of 30 seconds, opening the door to let steam to escape and move and rearrange the herbs.

It will probably take three or four bursts according to your microwave power. Again, as with conventional ovens, you will know that they are dry when they crackle when crushed.

Spring sees the beginning of new growths and before long you will find your perennial herbs coming to life. This is the time to keep an eye on them and pick as soon as they have reached good growth and still full of fragrance. The herbs are best picked early morning before the sun gets round to them.

Pick on a dry day if possible and check that they are in good condition and pest free.

Avoid old woody specimens that are past their best. Pick with a good stem length and wash by holding in a bunch and swish in cold water. Dry by patting in a clean tea towel or kitchen paper. Place on trays covered with absorbent kitchen paper and in a single layer.

By removing the moisture, microorganisms are unable to grow, thus prolonging the life of the commodity

Drying herbs

Drying peas

Drying chillies Two thin single layers on two separate trays will be much better than one thick tray full.

The key point here is to allow the vapour to evaporate fairly quickly at constant low temperature, thus preserving maximum fragrance and colour until the herbs are crisp when pinched. Allow to cool completely on fresh dry kitchen paper before crushing and packing in clean sterilised jars and covered with clean air tight lids. Small jars are best to avoid loss of fragrance and absorption of moisture from the air every time a jar is opened.

Chillies, especially if required for decoration, can be strung and hung in the conservatory or warm airy place to dry slowly over a few days. If required for consumption, they are best covered with a muslin bag to avoid gathering dust. Any chillies can be used and the process remains the same except that the larger they are, the longer they will take to dry.

Another little favourite of mine is to dry various herbs, including lavender and rose petals to use in wardrobe or drawer scenting bags. Take a choice of your favourite fragrant herbs e.g. rosemary, thyme, lavender flowers, rose petals, and dry as described for sage.

Leave to cool completely and use to fill little bags made using scraps of any pretty materials. Dried orris root, that smells a bit like violets, can be bought and used as a stabilizer to fix and preserve the aromas.

Cinnamon stick is a good addition either broken to mixed in or a whole stick tied in with the raffia. Lavender and rosemary are claimed to have calming effects and could be hung in the bedroom to aid peaceful sleep.

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Potato Pancakes This is a good way of using up old potatoes as they start losing their appeal in the spring. They are good to serve as a side to a light lunch or as part of a brunch.

3 large potatoes – about 400g/1lb 1 medium onion – finely chopped 1 large egg – lightly beaten 1 medium slice bread, made into crumbs Oil for frying Wash and scrub the potatoes, dry and then grate coarsely. Tip into a sieve and press with the back of a spoon to press out as much moisture as possible. Alternatively, tip into a clean tea towel and wring out the moisture. Put these in a large mixing bowl and add the other ingredients, seasoning to your liking.

Mix until thoroughly combined. Heat a little oil in a non- stick pan until smoking hot. Drop in a good tablespoonful of the mixture and flatten slightly. Repeat, two or three times according to the size of the pan. Adjust heat and fry gently for about three minutes until golden brown on the underside. Flip over and fry the other side until golden. Keep warm and repeat until the mixture has been used up.

Diced Rosemary Potatoes

Mushroom cashew nut, rocket or watercress stir-fry 1 tblspn olive oil 12 ozs mushrooms, peeled and quartered 1” piece root ginger, peeled and grated 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 3 spring onions, trimmed and thinly sliced 2 teaspoons honey 2 tblspns soy sauce half a cup cashew nuts, unsalted 4ozs watercress, rocket or spinach chopped Heat the oil until almost smoking, add the mushrooms and cook until beginning to brown. Add the ginger, garlic, spring onions and stir-fry for 2 mins before stirring in honey, soy sauce, cashew nuts and watercress. Toss to combine and stir-fry for a final 30 seconds to lightly wilt the watercress.

Serve immediately, heaped into warm bowls. This dish goes well with creamed potatoes and peas.

Another tasty way and a healthier alternative to chips Take about 400g/1lb floury potatoes according to number of servings required, scrubbed clean or peeled if preferred.

Cut into about 2cm/1 inch cubes and cook in salted water for 5 minutes. Drain and stem dry by placing back on the switched off but still warm ring and the lid off the pan. Add 2 tablespoonful’s olive or rapeseed oil, 2-3 sprigs of Rosemary and few chilli flakes (optional). Toss all together.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 200°C. Place a roasting tin in the oven to heat up as well.

When ready, tip the potato mixture into the hot roasting tin and cook for 20 – 25 minutes until browned. They should be turned once or twice during cooking so that they brown evenly all over.

Squash and Bean Salad You need: 1 Small young Butternut squash Good handful of French beans 1 cupful cooked kidney beans Bunch of fresh herbs e.g. Parsley, marjoram, thyme etc.

Dressing: 3 tablespoons extra virgin oil, Juice of 1 lime or ½ lemon 1 teaspoon of clear honey salt and pepper.

Trim the French beans and simmer for about 5 minutes. Drain and cut into approx. 1 inch pieces. Cut the Butternut squash into bite sized cubes. It is not necessary to peel while the squash is young. Chop the herbs. Put all the ingredients into a bowl and stir with a fork. Shake the dressing ingredients in a small screw topped jar. Pour the dressing over the salad, stir and chill in the fridge until ready to serve.

I would like to add that you get a bigger crop picking squash young, as the plant seems to produce more and more. I start picking them early to use in salads or to slice and roast like courgettes and at the end of the season I still have plenty to store for the winter. I have attached a photo of my mature squash which I picked in August and I picked at least 6 more after that. I grow 4 plants and the variety is Squashkin.

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The 1916 Garden

by Micheal Gordon I attended the Farming and Country Life Exhibition last year, which is a bit different and may be of interest to our readers.

The day I went was very overcast and showery so all the pictures were terrible, but I have included three and these are the best of a bad lot. I changed one to black and white to make it more atmospheric and it actually made it a lot clearer than the colour version. (Michael’s skills are not just gardening; I think he is correct in his comment about more atmospheric- Ed.) One hundred years ago the vegetable plot adjacent to the family dwelling was a feature of almost every farmhouse and cottage as well as houses in towns. The original idea of having a back garden in council housing schemes was to provide an area where a family could grow some food for household use. The advent of large scale supermarkets and cheap produce over the past fifty year years has led to the almost total disappearance of the cottage garden. In recent years’ heritage days and vintage shows, which display restored items of farm machinery and traditional crafts from bygone days have become very popular. On television in the last couple of years’ series like ‘the Victorian Farm’ have appeared which also tap into our curiosity about the rural past. Vegetable growing is in some ways also becoming an activity carried out to preserve a tradition.

Last June Teagasc (the Irish farm advisory service) welcomed over 60,000 people from across the country to Athenry Agricultural College for the three day ‘Farming and Country Life 1916’ exhibition. Over 2,000 school children attended the event on the Friday. Professor Gerry Boyle, Director of Teagasc said “Farming and Country Life 1916 was an event that truly captured

the imagination of all generations, with many dressing in period costume. The overwhelmingly positive feedback we have received from visitors is a testament to the months of planning and hard work involved.’’

This event included a replica of a typical cottage garden using old varieties of seed which were common one hundred years ago. The garden took months of preparatory work, including building the traditional stone wall around part of it to shelter the vegetables as in the olden days. All work was carried out using traditional cultivation methods without the use of modern chemical sprays and fertilisers, even down to the traditional wooden water barrels to make up Bordeaux mixture to spray the potatoes.

The vegetables grown reflected the diet in the region at the time with drills and ridges of potatoes, turnips, swedes, onions, kale, cabbage, with smaller amounts of the other root crops like carrots, parsnips and beetroot. Peas were not included as they were very rarely seen in the West of Ireland in that period, I have heard stories from older people that the first time they saw peas on a plate was in the digs where they stayed while working in England during the war!

Drills athenry

Athenry garden

Walled garden

Obituary Jenny Hennessey (nee Worsfold) FNVS We are sad to report the death in December 2016, of Jenny Hennessey, best known to NVS members as Jenny Worsfold.

She played a leading role on the strategic working committee in the late 1990s and into the 21st century. She suggested many ways ahead for the NVS, seeking and analysing the views of many members and producing detailed reports. Jenny never served on a Branch committee or DA, but did attend the National executive meeting at Preston

on several occasions to put forward the views of the strategic working committee.

Jenny was instrumental in the early stages of pushing forward the development of the society’s web site, and the society becoming a registered charity, along with many more inspiring ideas that have since been developed.

Jenny had a lifelong interest in all branches of horticulture; she was a notable plantwoman and once won a silver gilt award at Chelsea. Although a Civil Servant for many years she moved to the RHS towards the end of her career, becoming its first Education Officer. In this role she organised examinations, regional lectures and an annual schools competition.

Having moved to Gloucestershire after her marriage in 1995 she organised the

Gloucestershire Guild of Horticultural Judges and became a strong advocate of setting and maintaining high standards.

Her talk ‘I’ll be a judge of that’, describing the ins and outs of judging flowers and vegetables at shows was much sought after. She also became Vice-Chairman of Governors for the Pershore Group of Colleges specialising in Horticulture (Pershore and Hindlip in Worcestershire; Holme Lacey in Herefordshire).

Unfortunately she had to live with dementia in her declining years, but she remained cheerful to the end.

Our thoughts and condolences go out to her husband Roger Hennessey.

Mark Hall BEM, FNVS. Roger Hennessey

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Dobies Group Scheme

ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

by Rob Smith With the growing season well under way, now is the time to start thinking about what you’re going to grow for you and your family to feast on during the year and also what you’re going to show at the village horticultural show.

Dobies already have their great ‘Down to Earth’ prices, but you can benefit even more by taking advantage of their Group Scheme.

If you are a member of an allotment society, amateur gardening group, or even involved in a school gardening club, you can benefit throughout the year.

You will receive 50% off all your seed, with 15% off all other products, even including equipment and tools, plus you’ll receive great money saving offers for every season.

It couldn’t be simpler to join, just have a look at the website (www.dobies.co.uk/ groupscheme) or give them a ring on 0333 240 5933.

With all the recent hype about Iceberg lettuce shortages over the last couple of months, why not grow something that you can’t find in the shops and you can use as a great ‘Ice breaker’ (pun intended) when talking to your gardening friends. In my

Heritage Veg range you’ll find the cheekily named ‘Drunken Woman’ and ‘Fat Lazy Blonde’, both of which are beautiful lettuces which would certainly add interest to the village show if you entered them under the ‘mixed’ category.

Another great variety for both the kitchen and the show bench is my purple cauliflower ‘di Sicilia violetto’. I actually won The Big Allotment Challenge with a purple cauliflower, with Jim Butress stating ‘look at that big purple whopper, PERFECT’.

So, if you’re wanting to try something new for the kitchen table or the show table, Dobies group scheme will give you winning varieties at down to earth prices.

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Growing Nuts

by Gerry Edwards FNVS Forget all the nonsense that you hear about the difficulty of growing nuts - whether it be that they are unreliable in cropping, easily frosted or take a long time to reach bearing ability - and try and find space for a tree or two. Probably the only difficulty that you will encounter is beating the squirrels to the nuts but even if they do sneak off with a few there will be plenty left for you! I have grown nuts for years and I do absolutely nothing to my trees except occasionally trim the odd branch and they reward me with large crops every year and without fail! Even if you do not like eating nuts the trees are very decorative with cobnuts and filberts having very attractive catkins in early spring; indeed, many trees are sold purely for decorative purposes. Incidentally if you have never eaten nuts directly from the tree have a go because you will be amazed at the difference between “fresh” nuts and those that you buy in the shops which have been picked for some time.

For our purposes, there are two types of nuts to consider for growing in the garden.

The first - and by far the easiest to grow are cobnuts and filberts which are related species of what we call the hazelnut and the second is the walnut - which will produce nuts after a very short period providing you choose the right variety. The good thing about these nuts is that they will grow well on almost any type of soil if it is relatively well drained.

As both cobnuts and filberts are grown in the same way I will consider them both together. They are both very good for the garden as they produce their catkins in late January and February when the

garden needs cheering up a little. These trees are known as monoecious as they produce both male and female catkins on the same tree; the male catkins being long and very good looking and the female catkins being small, red and almost unnoticeable. A particularly good feature of these catkins is that they often last up to six weeks. These catkins are wind pollinated which should never be a problem at this early flowering time and whatever you read or hear one tree is perfectly sufficient to produce a good crop.

I have read and heard that these catkins can be damaged in a hard winter but so far, my trees have never failed to produce a good crop even when the temperature has dropped to minus seven degrees centigrade - and that is cold!

The trees are always grown as open centred trees on their own roots and to whatever height you desire to have them. If you want them as decorative trees as well as fruit bearing trees you may let them grow up to 15 feet (4.57 m) high but if you are growing them purely for fruiting keep them to a manageable height of between 6 and 7 feet (1.8 to 2.1m) high. Plant bare rooted trees between November and March tying them to a small stake which will keep them supported for a couple of years whilst the roots settle in. Most cobnuts and filberts will produce a good crop without a pollinator but some will

require cross pollination for a good set - I suggest, therefore, that for small gardens you only select those that will set a crop by themselves.

Now comes the dreaded word pruning!

If you are intending to grow your tree decoratively I suggest that you only prune to remove inward growing, dead, diseased and damaged branches and let the tree grow to whatever shape you want. However, remember that the tree is growing on its own roots which means that it will be relatively vigorous so you will need to watch the height. For purely fruit bearing trees a pruning regime will be required although to stop you being frightened silly let me make it as easy as possible and explain why it needs to be done. Firstly, try and obtain a two to three-year-old tree that has already had some formative pruning in the nursery. A good tree of this age will have between four and six branches. Remove any branches that are lower than 12 inches (300mm) from the ground to give a short trunk. Cut all the other branches back hard to around 9 inches (230mm) to stimulate growth and over the next two or three years thin all new growth so that around eight good branches are formed in a “goblet” shape. The centre of the tree is kept open by the removal of any branches or shoots growing internally. When the tree has grown to the height that you want it to be cut the top of each branch to a bud and this will lead to catkin bearing side shoots being formed.

Once you have formed your fruiting tree you will need to undertake some winter pruning Strong lateral growth should be pruned to three or four buds and the main

Hazel Bandnuss

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framework branches and other leaders should be pruned to maintain your required height. All the vigorous lateral growth that you “brutted” in August (see next paragraph) should be cut back to three or four buds.

After that the rest is up to you! It is not difficult to keep a tree like this in shape and as I have said on these pages many times before you have got to look at the tree so grow whatever shape you want it to be!

Summer pruning is very different to normal pruning and is known as “brutting”.

This must be carried out in August and involves breaking by hand all vigorous (strong growing) lateral growth of the current season by about half. These laterals are not completely broken through but left hanging until winter when they are cut off. This seemingly harsh treatment is very effective as it will considerably cut vigour without the subsequent growth caused by normal pruning during the growing season and will encourage fruit bud formation. May I suggest that you first practice “brutting” on some pruned off shoots before you let yourself go on the real thing!

Fruiting brings the real fun! As I remarked earlier you are going to have a little competition from the squirrels here. The theory of things is that you leave the nuts on the tree until around the end of September when they ripen and you can tell when this has arrived as the husks start turning yellow.

Unfortunately, if you live in an area of high squirrel population this will be far too late unless you manage to erect a squirrel proof net around your tree or trees. The way I get around this is to pick a little early and this will often win you the nuts. I must be honest in that nuts picked earlier than ripeness will

Hazelnuts in mid-August

Close up hazel flower

seriously affect the nut’s flavour. Whilst this may be true I find that nuts picked around mid August are perfectly edible and have a jolly good flavour and I would rather be in this position than wait and let something else harvest them for me! When you have harvested, your nuts dry them out well by spreading them out in a warm place - away from mice and squirrels - and then store them somewhere cool again protected from mice and squirrels. I store my nuts in my fruit store at the bottom of the garden in small net bags and have rarely lost any during the winter.

Incidentally do try and eat a nut or two directly after they have been picked and still in their “green” state - you will be amazed at the flavour. For your digestion’s sake only try a few please!

Now let’s move on to walnuts and despite claims that modern varieties are more compact growing they will still reach 25 feet after ten to fifteen years unless you severely restrict the roots in pots or root control bags which frankly I do not advise as the walnut is a majestic tree and deserves to grow as one. Therefore, I suggest that you only grow a walnut tree if you have a large garden and plenty of room. One positive though is that you can immediately forget all that you have read about walnuts taking ten years plus to reach fruiting. It is now possible to obtain varieties that will fruit within four years or so and be slow growing.

Walnuts will grow well on any soil providing

it is well drained. If you want to ensure that you get an early fruiting variety make sure that you buy a named variety from a reputable source and not just a tree that has been grown as a seedling. Whilst this may be fun for some fruits the length of time involved with walnuts could mean that it is your children who benefit from your planting!

The pruning regime for walnuts is more simple than for cobnuts and filberts mainly because the aim is not to keep the trees small but instead to let them grow tall gracefully. Walnuts are generally grown as standards and in simple terms what you need to do is to establish a tree that looks good, has a length of bare stem that suits you and a good framework of branches. You will probably buy your tree about two to three years old and a simple branch structure will have been formed already - all you need to do now is to let the tree grow and prune as you need to i.e. removing unnecessary shoots and branches and keeping the stem clean. Due to the tree’s sensitivity, I recommend that you seal any pruning wounds with Vaseline or similar.

Harvesting of walnuts is straightforward and in my experience, you are unlikely to get squirrel competition in this case. Wait for the nuts to fall to the ground and immediately de husk them by taking off their outer layer. Give them a good brush over and then lay them out to dry for a few days in a warm place. When the nuts are dry, they can be stored in nets.

commonly planted nut in Britain today.

It is a very heavy cropping variety and is moderately vigorous. I recommend this variety for most gardens.

Red Filbert is a filbert that is worth growing for its decorative features alone as the foliage is rich purple and the catkins are long and dark red! The nuts which are of good quality are unsurprisingly red as well.

Unfortunately, it is not a heavy cropper but does it matter when you have a tree in your garden like this?

garden. It is a slow growing tree but will come into bearing some three or four years after planting and will quickly produce a regular crop. The nuts are large and are very good in quality. An excellent variety for growing in larger gardens perhaps as a specimen tree.

Harvesting of walnuts is straightforward and in my experience, you are unlikely to get squirrel competition

Varieties Cobnuts and Filberts Butler is a filbert and produces very large nuts and is very heavy cropping. Although it is a very good tree for the garden it really needs a pollinator and Cosford is ideal for this. Unless you want to plant two nut trees you will need to give this one a miss.

Cosford is a cobnut and produces large, oblong nuts which have a very good flavour. It is a very heavy cropping variety which means that you will need plenty of space or be prepared to keep the tree under control! It is super to see early in the year as it produces bright yellow catkins.

Kentish Cob (also known as Lambert’s Filbert) is a filbert and probably the most

Walnuts Broadview is Canadian in origin and is the best all round walnut for growing in the

The photograph is of a variety called Bandnuss which is one of the varieties grown in Kent and the only one I have a photograph of so could not include the ones listed above by Gerry. – Ed

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Getting started in the Greenhouse – part 6

by Kelvin Mason Cucumbers Cucumbers are second only to tomatoes as a greenhouse vegetable (yes I know they are a fruit!).

Cucumis sativus is a plant that likes warmth as it is a plant that originates from a warm climate. They are reputed to have been around since 2000BC; over 4000 years ago. The early types were believed to be bitter and were used in soups and stews.

Cucumbers contain vitamins A and C and also potassium. They are mainly climbing plants and are best trained as cordons.

The Victorian gardeners used to use glass tubes to grow the fruit in to keep them straight; that is before the E.U came along!

Possible a tip for exhibitors there!

It is said they cannot be grown in the same greenhouse as tomatoes partly owing to the different environmental conditions each crop requires. Cucumbers like a humid atmosphere whereas tomatoes prefer dryer conditions. I have grown both crops in the same greenhouse for a number of years and achieved good yields from them both.

Although now I have two greenhouses I do grow them in separate greenhouses as I grow the tomatoes and peppers together and the cucumbers and melons and last year some aubergines in the other greenhouse.

It is possible to create a humid atmosphere around cucumber plants by erecting a clear polythene screen around the plants to trap the humidity. It is important to avoid fluctuating humidity and temperatures as this can check growth and stress the plants which makes them prone to pest and disease attack. Keep the doors shut unless it is a hot day.

Cucumbers also prefer a slightly higher temperature than tomatoes with a daytime temperature of 18 to 21°C, even up to 24°C in the summer as long as it is humid. Night time temperature should not drop below 15°C; it is preferable if it is just a couple of degrees lower than the daytime temperature.

The all-female types tend to prefer a minimum night temperature of 20°C if you can afford the heating cost, but will grow fairly well at a slightly lower temperature.

Cucumbers will need starting in a heated greenhouse or propagator so as to achieve good and quick germination a temperature of 24°C should be maintained. If the compost is cold germination will be poor and slow.

Sow the seed into John Innes seed compost or a multipurpose compost in 7.5cm pots. Push the seed about 1cm into the compost so that the seed is on its side.

Having said that some recent research said that it is not necessary to sow the seed on the side or edge and it could be sown flat

and germination is just as good. I find it easier to hold and sow them on their side.

Water the compost and place the pots into the propagator or a heated area.

The seed can also be sown onto three to four layers of damp paper towels in a seed tray or recycled meat tray from the supermarket and covered with a couple of damp paper towels and then the container put into the propagator. It is possible to sow many of the cucumber family the same way and stack the trays in the propagator to make full use of the space. The seeds will send out the root (radicle) in a few days and then they should be potted up into 7.5cm pots and kept at the same temperature. Take care not to damage the root when potting up. It is important to keep the paper towels damp but not wet or the seed will rot. If the towels dry out the seed will die so they need careful monitoring.

Cucumbers can be sown in January / February for early crops but heating will be required until at least April to keep the plants growing healthily which is very costly.

Once the seedlings have produced the first

leaves (cotyledons) they should be grown at a temperature of 18 to 21°C in good but not too bright light. Water to keep the compost damp but not wet. When the plants are 10 to 15cm high pot them into a 10 to 12.5cm pot into John Innes 1 or a multipurpose compost (stick to what the plant is in when sown, do not mix the different growing media). As the plants start to grow train them up a 40cm split bamboo cane and watch for any pest or disease problems. Keep the plants humid but the compost not wet as cucumbers are prone to root rots.

Cucumbers like tomatoes can be grown in a number of different growing media including the border soil, straw bales, growbags, pots, ring culture, hydroponics etc. use which ever method suits you. If you are not succeeding with a particular method try one of the others. If using hydroponics sow the seed into small (5cm cubes) of rockwool and once they have germinated move on into a 10cm block before moving them into the hydroponic system. If you wish to make your own growing media the old fashioned gardeners used to use the following mixture 2 parts

Cucumbers like tomatoes can be grown in a number of different growing media

Cucumbers West Dean

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Cucumber Carmen F1

well-rotted turf, 1-part well-rotted manure and 1-part well-rotted leaf mould. Measure this out by volume for example buckets or wheelbarrow full. This produces a fertile loose root run which cucumbers like and holds moisture yet is free draining.

If planting into the border soil this will need changing every couple of years and should have some well-rotted organic matter dug in before planting and also a sprinkling of Growmore or blood, fish and bone fertiliser raked in.

When planting make a small mound to plant into as this helps to prevent root rot problems, and put the plants in so that the top of the root ball is level with the top of the mound. If growing in pots or other containers use John Innes 3 or a welldrained multipurpose compost with plenty of body and a slow release fertiliser incorporated.

Do not use a cheap, fine graded compost as this will slump and have poor drainage. If using growbags have only two plants per bag and preferable cut the bag in half and stand up so it is like a pot. Plant out when the plants have two to four true leaves and are approx.

15 to 25cm tall. Space the plants 60cm apart and insert a cane to train the plants up. Water the plants in and leave to settle down, do not ventilate the greenhouse unless the weather is hot.

If planting into an un-heated greenhouse

do not plant until early May in the South and late May / early June in the North as both the soil and air temperature may be too low for cucumbers.

Keep the atmosphere humid by damping down the paths and growing area but do not get the growing media too wet, although it should be kept moist. In hot weather spray the plants with tepid water (not cold water which will shock them; do you like cold showers!). It also pays to keep the watering cans full of water in the greenhouse so that they are at the correct temperature for watering and it also helps with the humidity.

There are various systems for training cucumber and the most common and easiest is the horizontal system.

Wires should be strung tightly along the greenhouse walls and roof at 30cm intervals, make sure the greenhouse is strong enough to take the weight of the crop as full grown, heavy cropping cucumbers are a reasonable weight. When the plants are growing train them up a cane to start them off and then keep them going up to the top wire. Once at the top pinch out the growing tip to encourage lateral production (side shoots).

Tie the laterals to the horizontal wires and when each lateral produces a fruit pinch out the growing tip two leaves past the fruit. Tie any sub laterals to the wires and pinch them

If planting into the border soil this will need changing very couple of years and should have some well-rotted organic matter dug in before planting

out two leaves after a fruit. Each plant should produce many fruit. Train as many laterals as there is space for and remove any surplus laterals and also tendrils which are not required as the laterals are tied to the wires.

Try not to let the plants become a jungle as this makes them prone to powdery mildew.

Most of the modern cultivars are all female, that is they do not produce any male flowers, although they may produce a few at the start of the season which should be removed.

If growing an old heritage cultivar which produces both male and female flowers the males should be removed as soon as seen (these are the ones without a tiny fruit behind the flower). If the male flowers are left and the females pollinated the resultant fruit will taste bitter.

Once the plants are established they often produce white roots up the lower part of the main stem. These can be encouraged by top dressing with a John Innes compost or multipurpose compost but do not place it in contact with the stem, let the roots grow out to the compost. If growing media is piled around the stem it can lead to it rotting. If the border is mulched with straw this helps to maintain humidity and prevent weed growth.

Make sure the straw has not been treated with any herbicide which may affect the cucumber plants but will certainly affect any tomatoes in the greenhouse even if the straw is not around them.

If the summer is bright and hot it can pay to shade the cucumber plants with shade paint or blinds to prevent leaf scorch. Keep damping down which helps to lower the temperature as well as creating a humid environment. simplyvegetables 17

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Feed the plants with a high potash feed (tomato liquid feed is fine) at weekly intervals or give a very dilute feed twice a week.

Harvest the fruit as soon as ready as this will encourage the plants to keep producing more fruit. The fruit do not have to be fully grown before harvested so once they are a reasonable length cut them from the plants.

Use a sharp knife and cut them at the short stem on which the fruit is growing.

Keep an eye open for whitefly, red spider mite and aphids which are the main pests of cucumbers and take prompt action as soon as seen so they do not become an epidemic.

Control methods include biological controls such as parasitic wasps of which there are various species available that will control the above pests. There are also some pesticides still available but take care with your choice as some can damage cucumber so read the label before using.

The main diseases are powdery mildew and root rots. Keeping the air flowing around the plants helps to prevent powdery mildew, although it often occurs at the end of the season (September). By then the cropping will be reducing and the fruit can be removed and the plants pulled out rather than spend too much time and effort trying to deal with the disease. Root rot can occur at any time and is common if the soil / compost is too wet or cold. Always use sterilised compost or fresh soil that is in good heart for growing cucumbers. Keep the area around the stem dry but the growing media damp. Do not check or stress the plants by either wet or drought.

Another problem that can occur is Cucumber mosaic virus which causes yellow mottled and distorted leaves which can shrivel and eventually die. The virus reduces growth and fruiting and can easily spread to other plants. If the problem is spotted early remove the infected leaf / leaves which may prevent spread if the virus is not in the stem sap.

But if the plant is badly infected remove the

Cucumber Carmen F1

whole plant and dispose. Ensure that aphids are controlled promptly as these spread the virus.

Cultivars I will ignore the outdoor types as this series is about growing in greenhouses. There are a number of different types of indoor cucumbers available nowadays.

The two main types are the straight long or short fruiting type.

The long cucumbers are approx. 30 to 50cm long when ready for harvesting. The short (sandwich type) are from 7.5 to 20cm long

If the summer is bright and hot it can pay to shade the cucumber plants with shade paint or blinds to prevent leaf scorch

when ready. Both types give good yields and are grown using the same systems.

As mentioned above most of the modern cultivars are all female types and are usually F1 hybrids. The seed tends to be expensive and often only eight to ten seeds in a pack (sometimes even less!). You will only need two to three plants unless you have a large family (or feed the street) so one pack of seed should be sufficient.

The Japanese types are good for unheated greenhouses and polytunnels as well as being recommended for organic growers.

They are very productive even though the fruits are shorter than the normal cucumbers.

Cucumbers can also be brought as plug plants and also potted grafted plants which just need growing on for a short time before planting.

F1 Bella – all female, resistant to powdery mildew.

F1 Baby – a mini cucumber, heavy cropper, resistant to powdery mildew.

F1 Passandra – has been around for a few years, good cropper.

F1 Carmen – good overall disease resistance, reasonable long fruit.

F1 Camilla – good powdery mildew resistance, long dark green fruit and good flavour.

The Japanese types include: F1 Kyota F1 Slice King F1 Tokyo F1 Pony Cucumber F1 Bella

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The Outdoor Classroom

By Rowland Bostock, NVS Judge, Codsall, Staffordshire Five years ago I was asked to judge Newcastle under Lyme Borough Council’s allotments as part of their local Newcastle in Bloom competitions. (well worth getting involved with if your local council run in bloom competitions Ed).

It has become a great highlight of my judging year, the innovation, enthusiasm, hard work and camaraderie of all those involved from the allotment holders to the council staff never ceases to impress me.

This year I judged 46 allotments over six sites and again I was astounded at the standards of the allotments and the achievements of the allotment holders old and new.

I have seen allotments flourish and associations established which is very heartening. In 2015 I was extremely impressed with The Acre site, which had formed its own committee and were sharing their ideas and helping each other nurture their plots.

Last year it was a school which impressed me the most. The actual plot they had taken on at the Lyme Valley site is on a slope and has for the time I have been judging there never been utilized. Therefore, it was rather like a wilderness and gave the school an immense amount of work to do. I was amazed by the transformation they had made.

The school is Edenhurst Preparatory School from Newcastle under Lyme. The

The children planting containers

pupils, their teacher Julie Heyhoe-Kirkbride and her partner Mike Kirkbride have played a huge part in the renovation of the plot at Lyme Valley. They have used recycled materials to tier the plot into flat sections more conducive to growing crops. Their enthusiasm and hard work is reflected in the achievements they have made on this plot.

A good selection of crops and fruit were being grown and they had a small plastic greenhouse for tomatoes and cucumbers and an area to attract wildlife.

It has been an outstanding effort and it was great to see much knowledge coupled with enthusiasm amongst these youngsters.

It is a perfect learning environment and brings the classroom outdoors.

The judging culminates in Newcastle in Bloom and Community Awards at the New Vic Theatre Newcastle under Lyme, Staffordshire, sponsored by local businesses.

The competitions consist of allotments, licensed premises / businesses, community gardens, community projects (schools), best street and residential gardens. Everyone is a winner and there is also a special feature award, an outstanding achievement award, best eco school, food and craft show awards, a children’s painting competition and a community champion award.

To quote from the Newcastle in Bloom

2016 winners brochure “The local competitions form an integral part of the boroughs overall bloom campaign as they are such a fantastic link between the local community and the council” Credit must go to the Newcastle in Bloom campaign team at Newcastle under Lyme Borough Council for their enthusiasm, dedication and excellent organisational skills.

In particular Beverley, Donna, Simon and Alison for all their hard work every year.

If your council run an in bloom competition get involved as they help to brighten up the community area; part of the RHS’s greening grey Britain scheme. Many in bloom groups are looking for helpers, advisers and judges and it is a good way of getting children involved in growing and nature which is important. – Ed

Rowland Bostock

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Ditch the watering can!

An introduction to AutoPot Watering Systems

by Ian Stocks FNVS As part of the work the Scottish Branch have been doing with a range of commercial partners Autopot systems were used in Premier Hydroponics growrooms where we trialled a range of different methods, reported in the 2016 editions of SV. This system was one that certainly opened my eyes, and it had also been used

by Gareth Cameron in 2016. I have never been able to grow tomatoes to exhibition standard, despite using everyone and their uncle`s methods. So this year I will be growing all tomatoes for exhibition in the Autopot system. So why am I doing this - AutoPots provide any grower of any ability with a watering system that gives their plants fresh nutrient enriched water, exactly when they need it. And all without pumps, timers or electricity. Sound good? It does to me!

So how does it work? At the heart of every AutoPot system lies the AQUAvalve.

This brilliantly simple piece of kit operates on gravity pressure from a waterbutt, with no pumps, mains water pressure, electricity or timers required. The AQUAvalve sits in any flat bottomed tray - be it a gardening tray or one of AutoPots specially moulded pot and tray combinations - and is connected to the water supply via 6mm pipe. The valve then fills the tray with water (and nutrients if required) until it reaches a set level of 20mm, at which point it stops the supply of water.

The AQUAvalve will not reopen until the plants have used all the water in the tray, and the process then starts again. The trays will fill and empty multiple times per day as the valve enables plants to independently water themselves. Just what I need.

So, why use it? Well, in a nutshell, the system is unique in the sense that every individual AutoPot grown plant receives exactly what it needs, when it needs it. Plants constantly have access to nutrient enriched water and they never have to wait for me to muck up the watering and feeding. Think of it as Plant Controlled Irrigation. The plant controls when it feeds not the gardener and, because the plants requirements are always met, they should grow faster, more evenly and with greater yield. That’s not to mention

Kennesaw toms

the fact that, by connecting 1Pot (15L) module your AutoPots to a large enough reservoir, you only need to visit your plants once a week (or less!). Even in the height of summer. Plus, no more relying on friends at the plot to water when we disappear for a holiday.

An AutoPot system can actually save you money in the long-term as there is no wastage of water and fertiliser usage. So if you are like me and have trouble with watering and feeding certain vegetables have a think about XL (25L) module AutoPots. Dan Gulliver from AutoPot has kindly provided some information on some of the systems.

• Available to purchase as a full system or The AutoPot Family as single modules to extend an existing You may well be familiar with AutoPot system “pots”, but there’s actually a full range of • Available in 3 sizes; a twin 8.5L pot handy irrigation products based around that module - ideal for vine crops and short AQUAvalve. Here’s a quick overview; bushy plants like herbs, a single 15L pot - a great all-rounder - and a whopping The modules: 25L pot - for very large plants or root A pot, a tray and an AQUAvalve, plus all • vegetables. relevant fittings

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Handy hints and tips from seasoned AutoPot growers!

AutoPot is a very simple system to use, but it’s always nice to hear from fellow gardeners with firsthand experience. Share the knowledge!

Here’s our top 5 tips; Cucumbers

The easy2GO Kit: Turns any tray into a large AutoPot, good to keep multiple plants watered for either, a short period of time, e.g. vegging plants or leaving grow bags / pots when going on holiday, or as a full cycle system, just stretch b+w sheet polysheet or correx over the tray to reflect light and prevent algae growth.

The AQUAbox Spyder and Straight: • Designed to irrigate a raised bed up to 1.2m x 1.2m in size • Uses capillary matting to deliver water across a raised bed • Multiple units can be connected to a single water supply to irrigate larger areas • Ideal for a ‘veg patch’ or garden border The easy2Propagate: A large scale propagator measuring a whopping 120cm x 55cm that uses the AQUAvalve and a layer of coir matting to gently irrigate seedlings and cuttings without overwatering them.

• Largest single piece propagator lid on the market!

• Available as a complete system with or without a 25L FlexiTank waterbutt

FlavourFresh Strawberries

Tip 1...

Only pot up established plants that are 150mm-300mm (6” - 12”) in height dependant on the size of your AutoPot. A teeny seedling placed in a large container will take an awfully long time to root out!

Tip 2...

Toms at Brill View Farm

easy2grow (8.5L) kit

Once plants are potted up into your AutoPots, water the pots from above BEFORE switching the system on.

This will ensure that there are roots at the bottom of the pot. For example; pot up, hand feed and allow the plants to use the moisture in the substrate before feeding again; this will send the roots to the bottom of the pot to search for moisture. The following time periods are a good guide; • 8.5L (easy2grow) – 5-7 days • 15L (1Pot) – 7-12 days • 25L (1Pot XL) – 10-14 days

Tip 3...

•

Commercial growing techniques on any scale! One of the great things about AutoPots is that they are modular. You can literally run as few or as many as you wish. This means that they are suitable for gardeners of any scale from the one-plant-wonder to the serious small holder. It’s pretty much the only system that we can think of where you can purchase exactly the same irrigation system that commercial growers use under acres of glass for gardening at home or the allotment.

Here’s a couple of commercial AutoPot customers for you to aspire to… dream big!

• • •

Use an absorbent media that is light and fluffy, this will ensure good aeration. Adding perlite or clay pebble to your mix will increase aeration and speed up rooting times. The following ratios work really well; 50/50 coco/perlite 60/40 clay/coco 50/50 compost/perlite

Tip 4...

Add washed gravel or clay pebbles in the bottom of the pot for additional drainage if required, particularly if you are using peat based composts (which can retain lots of moisture). If using clay pebbles they MUST be pH stable.

FlavourFresh, Lancashire, UK Crop type: Strawberry Growing Media: Coir & Perlite Crops per year: 2 Yield difference: 8% increase in yield and a reduction in class 2 fruit (unsuitable for sale to supermarkets) from 4.5% to 1.5%.

Water & fertiliser savings: 50% saving compared to drip irrigated coir slabs

Tip 5...

Kennesaw University, Atlanta, USA Crop type: Tomatoes (Medium Red) Growing Media: Treated Pine Bark Crops per year: 1 Yield: Weekly harvest of 450kg from 1200 plants easy2propagate shelving unit

Use a soluble mineral fertiliser and avoid organic liquid fertilisers, as these can block your pipework. If you’re unsure then a good general rule of thumb is to mix a small amount in a glass of water over night. If the mixture has separated the following day then it is not suitable for AutoPot, as it will separate in the pipework, potentially causing blockages.

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Growing Well

by James Smith Growing Well has been growing organic vegetables and fruit on its 5-acre site in south Cumbria for the last twelve years.

Five miles south of Kendal, on Low Sizergh Farm, nestled in the valley of the River Kent with distant views of Morecambe Bay, it benefits from a southerly aspect with a fertile clay loam soil.

Growing Well has established a production system that grows a diversity of vegetables, sweet peppers, tomatoes and cucumbers in summer to parsnips, celeriac, kohlrabi and salads in winter. The reason for such a variety of produce can easily be explained once you look at what Growing Well does in a little more detail.

Growing Well opens its doors to people that are experiencing difficulties and poor mental health. As well as growing produce Growing Well is a place to learn, to grow both literally and personally, to socialise and be part of a working environment that challenges and nurtures life. Volunteers can get involved with looking after the thousands of seedlings that are all sown annually on site to planting and lifting crops using tractors and the impressive collection of small scale tractor implements that have been found in farm barns locally.

As well as growing over 50 different varieties of vegetables, the site houses 105 varieties of cordoned apple trees, and a selection of season stretching varieties of blackcurrants, gooseberries, raspberries and strawberry plants.

Growing Well fosters community.

Volunteers are welcomed and encouraged to take part in all aspects of the business, growing, office administration, and more recently a blossoming catering unit that is exploring the creation of delicious food from the home grown produce. The majority of the crops are sold through a crop share, customers sign up and receive a bag of fresh organic produce all grown on the farm. These bags are currently produced 40 weeks of the year at a weekly cost is £9.50.

In Summer, you’ll see poly tunnels and fields full of produce. Although some say poly tunnels are unsightly they provide a controllable environment to produce a consistently good crop of tomatoes, cucumbers and sweet peppers in the variable and not always kind Cumbrian summers.

Varieties have been chosen to respond well to organic production, cooler conditions and resilience.

Passandra cucumber is grown year on year; the plants are strong and produce a continuous crop of medium sized 25-30cm fruits from June to October. Keeping humidity up in the cooler conditions can be a challenge. As a result, red spider

mite can become an issue, early detection and introduction of the biological control Phytoseiulius persimilis used to ensure that the crop continues unchecked.

Tomatoes are grown with the customer at heart. Taste and productivity is the key. Two delicious varieties that crop well, are cherries, “Sakura” a red hybrid and “Golden cherry” a yellow tomato similar to the standard “Sungold” but with a slightly thicker skin that is less susceptible to splitting. Both are grown as cordons, sown late February, and transplanted into a warming poly tunnel in early May. Sweet peppers are usually bred to thrive in glasshouse conditions. We have spent years trying relatively cool growing varieties suitable of our conditions. The last four years have seen us trialling and comparing a number of potentials. “King of the North”, (the clue is in the name), and “Chocolate” a dark skinned novelty, both do well they are available from the “Real Seed Company”. However, the search still goes on for a reliable Aubergine.

Growing Well’s salads are delicious, we are very proud of the variety, colour and taste of our mixed salad bags. There is something very different to eating a salad leaf that has been grown relatively slowly in the soil in comparison to salads more intensively grown available in most retail outlets.

The passing of the longest day marks the best time to sow salads in my opinion, rocket, mustards, that would all go to seed quickly if grown earlier in the year, come into their element. Mizuna, Red Mustards “Red Dragon”, “Pizzo”, “Purple Frills” all give spice, colour and texture to a plate of salad. We always rely on Winter Purslane and Lettuce Lollo Rosso, and Salanova to provide an interesting but more neutral base.

Organic growing is about feeding the soil and providing plants with the environment that means that they bloom and flourish. We strive to do the same with each person that walks up the path to the site to volunteer.

We work hard to produce great food, together.

If you know of anybody that is experiencing difficulties with their mental health, encourage them to find some help. Whether that’s a trip to the doctors or a walk down to Growing Well to see what we are up to.

For further information, go onto our website www.growingwell.co.uk

James Smith

Growing Well opens its doors to people that are experiencing difficulties and poor mental health.

There is a lot of evidence that gardening helps people who are having mental difficulties so as Jame’s says encourage them to try grow your own and they will improve their mental health and feed themselves. – Ed.

View of site

View of polytunnel

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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

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Seasonal Jobs

by Derek Brooks FNVS April I hope you have got your beds ready for sowing and planting as I mentioned last month as there are many things due for sowing and planting

this month.

Crops that are better sown direct into the soil are swedes, turnips, carrots, parsnips, salsify, scorzonera, radish, salad onions, spinach and broad beans. Broad beans are large enough to sow individually, about 9 inches (23cm.) apart in rows. It is a good idea though, to sow a few in pots in case any don’t germinate and these can be used to fill any gaps. All the rest are sown thinly in drills to be thinned out to their final spacing later.

The next ones I am going to mention can also be sown direct but I prefer to sow them in cell trays. I sow about three seeds in each cell and thin them to one if they all germinate.

These are beetroot, kohl rabi, lettuce, chicory, endive and rocket.

Cabbage, cauliflowers, Brussels sprouts, calabrese, asparagus and peas can also be sown direct but I prefer to sow these in small pots, about 3 seeds per pot as before.

One reason for sowing brassicas in pots is to avoid clubroot. When the roots have filled the small pots I pot them on into 5 inch (12.5 cm.) pots. They will be larger plants when planted out and the roots have a larger volume of compost to occupy before they reach the diseased soil.

This is also the month to sow tender vegetables in the greenhouse that can’t be planted out till there is no danger of frost.

They can be sown outdoors but not till May so by sowing in the greenhouse this month we get them cropping earlier. The crops I am referring to are runner beans, French beans (climbing and dwarf), marrows, courgettes, pumpkins, squashes and sweet corn. All

Onion sets growing in pots ready for planting

these seeds are large enough to sow one per pot. I sow sweet corn in drinking cups, but the rest which are larger into 4 inch (10 cm.) pots. Any multipurpose compost can be used.

Tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and aubergines are normally sown earlier but there is still time if you haven’t done so.

They are best sown in a propagator in the greenhouse. This is also the best month to sow melons, also in the greenhouse. Leeks and celery may also have been sown earlier but there is still time to sow these too in small pots or cell trays. Celery seed is very small so it needs to be sown very thinly and is best if not covered.

So much for sowing, but what can we plant this month? This is the main month for planting potatoes, starting with the earlies and then maincrops towards the end of the month. Earlies can be planted 12 inches (30 cm.) apart and maincrops, which take up more space, 15 inches (37.5cm.). I plant

Chrysanths ready to go into frames

them in trenches about 6 inches (15cm.) deep and put a layer of lawn mowing’s at the bottom which helps to prevent scab. Onion sets and garlic can be planted this month I start them off in pots in the greenhouse to get them to crop earlier. Asparagus crowns can also be planted they are planted in trenches on a slight mound of soil. If shallots were planted in small pots last December (the traditional time) as I do, they should have been potted into larger pots later and should be ready for planting out this month.

If onion seeds were sown earlier in the year, or even last December, as exhibitors do, they should have been potted on into larger pots and should be ready for planting out now.

Flowers that can be planted this month are gladioli corms, dahlia tubers and hardy perennials.

There is plenty to do in the greenhouse this month too. If you sowed some annual flowers in trays last month as I suggested,

Dahlias potted up

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Tomatoes in bottomless pots on grow bags

the seedlings should be large enough to be pricked out into other trays or boxes two inches (5 cm.) apart using any good potting or multipurpose compost.

Last month I mentioned taking chrysanthemum and dahlia cuttings. If you did so they should be rooted and be ready for potting into 3 inch (7.5 cm.) pots. More cuttings can still be taken this month. If you didn’t box up your dahlia tubers and give them bottom heat for the purpose of taking cuttings, they can be planted out. They won’t stand any frost, though so plant them fairly deep so that the shoots don’t appear above ground till there is no danger of frost.

Tomatoes may be at different stages of growth depending on when the seeds were sown. If they were sown recently they may be ready for pricking out into small pots. I use yoghurt pots for this first potting. If they were sown early they should already be in small pots and may be ready to be potted on into 4 inch (10cm.) pots. This also applies to cucumbers, peppers and aubergines they may even be ready to plant in their final positions, either 8 inch or 9 inch pots (20cm. or 23cm.), growbags or direct in the greenhouse border. Tomatoes, however, should not be planted in their final positions till the first flowers are visible.

When mentioning earlier which seeds can be sown this month I said that I pot brassicas into 5 inch (12.5cm.) pots before planting.

Cabbages under protective net

There is still plenty of sowing to do this month. It is rather late to sow tomatoes, peppers, aubergines, artichokes, celery, celeriac, onions and leeks which were mentioned last month but all the rest can still be sown and also chicory for salads, corn salad, winter cabbage and broccoli.

The last four mentioned can all be sown direct but I think chicory and corn salad are better started off in cell trays and winter cabbage and broccoli in small pots as I described for Brassicas last month.

Whatever seeds are sown from now on it is important not to sow too many at once to avoid a glut. There are several crops that can be sown any time from now right through the summer so spread the sowing by only

sowing a few at once. This particularly applies to salad crops.

So, what can we plant outside this month?

Let me say first that any plants raised in the greenhouse must be hardened off in a cold frame for at least a week before planting outside. This applies to annual flowers, chrysanths, dahlias, the tender veg that I mentioned last month, onions and Brassicas. I have several cold frames which are dismantled and stored away behind my greenhouse when not in use so now is the time to get them out and fix them up.

When plants are put in, the frame tops are left closed for a day or two then opened gradually over the next week or so.

Provided they are hardened off, onions and Brassicas can go out about the middle of the month. Half hardy flowers, dahlias and the tender veg must wait till there is no chance of frost which is usually the end of the month. If you live in the North, as I do, it is safer to wait till June.

Apart from onions and Brassicas, all these will need staking, the length of the canes depending on the height of the plants. I always put the canes in first; for runner beans and climbing French beans I make a

Structure of canes with runner beans and sweet peas planted

Annuals in frame

If they were sown earlier they may now be ready to go into these larger pots.

You may have some spring cabbage and broccoli ready for harvesting and the first of the rhubarb. The overwintered onions should also be ready for lifting.

May

Whatever seeds are sown from now on it is important not to sow too many at once to avoid a glut

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Chrysanths planted

framework of two rows of 8 foot (2.4 metre) canes. 3 feet (90 cm.) apart tied to horizontal canes along the top and strengthened with shorter canes between the two rows. I grow sweet peas on the same framework as runner beans as they attract insects for pollination.

When chrysanths and dahlia plants are established they need “stopping”. This means pinching out the growing tips which causes the plants to produce side shoots which will eventually produce the flowers.

The plants need to be at least 4 inches (10 cm.) tall before you stop them. The earlier the stopping is done, the earlier will be the flowers. They can be stopped while they are still in pots if they are large enough. This is what I do because I grow them for early shows. If you are just growing them for cutting for the house, of course, it doesn’t really matter when they flower.

Gladioli corms can be planted this month about 12 inches (30cm.) apart about 4 inches (10 cm.) deep. I put a handful of coarse sand in the bottom of each hole to assist drainage.

In the greenhouse or poly tunnel, tomatoes, cucumbers peppers and aubergines can be planted either direct in

the border or in pots. For tomatoes I use bottomless pots on top of growbags, two on each bag. This is a modification of the old ring culture method. Some tomatoes are “bush varieties” and these are allowed to grow naturally. Others are “Cordon varieties”.

These are grown on a single stem and side shoots are removed. They will need staking with a tall cane or grown up a string attached to a horizontal wire along the top of the greenhouse.

Also in the greenhouse, later sown Brassicas and later rooted dahlias may still be in small pots.

When the roots have filled these pots the plants will need potting into 5 inch (12.5 cm.) pots to be hardened off and planted in June.

If potatoes were planted in April the shoots will soon be showing through the soil. They should be “earthed up” by drawing soil up round the shoots which protects them from late frosts.

As the weather gets warmer the greenhouse temperatures will rise so open the doors and windows every day and apply some shading to the glass. I use “Coolglass” which is painted on and lasts all summer but is easily rubbed off in the autumn.

We also need to keep our eyes open for

When chrysanths and dahlia plants are established they need “stopping”

pests which will be increasing in the warmer weather and take appropriate action. The main pests of Brassicas are, of course, the caterpillars of cabbage white butterflies which can strip the leaves in next to no time. You can keep looking for the eggs on the underside of the leaves and squashing them. I think the best method is to stop the butterflies getting to the plants by covering the whole bed with a net supported on a framework of canes.

Crops you may have for harvesting this month are broad beans, spring cabbage, broccoli, radish, rocket, asparagus and rhubarb.

June It is rather late to sow the tender veg mentioned in April and May, also cucumbers, melons and sprouts but all the rest mentioned last month can still be sown. Don’t forget what I said last month about sowing little and often to avoid a glut. Any sown in cell trays or pots will need thinning to one if they all germinate.

This is the month when, hopefully, all danger of frost is passed. Therefore, now is the time to plant all the tender veg, dahlias and half hardy annual flowers if not done last month and of course provided they are hardened off. You need to rake a general fertiliser into the ground before planting, if not

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Annuals planted on allotment

done before, either Growmore or fish, blood and bone at about 4 oz. per square yard 134 gms. per square metre). Put canes in before planting, as I said last month. Apart from these tender subjects you may have some Brassicas to plant. Also, you can still plant chrysanths if they weren’t ready to plant last month.

You will probably have planted your tomatoes by now so continue to remove side shoots from cordon varieties. You also need to plant cucumbers if not done before.

So much for sowing and planting so what other jobs need doing this month?

Chrysanths and dahlias need “stopping” by pinching out the growing tips if not done before. If you do it any later they may not be flowering before the frost. Potatoes need to be “earthed up” as they grow. Greenhouse doors and windows can be left open from now on.

In the fruit garden, cover the strawberry bed with a net to keep birds off the ripening fruit. All fruit, particularly strawberries and raspberries, will benefit from a feed high in potash such as rose or tomato feed. Plums and cherries should not be pruned in winter due to the risk of silver leaf disease but they can be done now. Just cut out any dead, damaged, diseased or crossing branches.

We need to keep our eyes open for pests and diseases because many will be coming to the fore. The main disease of potatoes is, of course, potato blight. It can also affect tomatoes if grown outside. It doesn’t usually

Chrysanth showing breaks after stopping

Courgettes planted

appear till July but it is worth spraying with a suitable fungicide every two weeks or so to try to prevent it. Another common disease is chocolate spot on broad beans and again it is a good idea to spray with fungicide to prevent it.

Aphids can make an appearance at any time, blackfly can affect broad and runner beans and greenfly can appear on many crops and also on flowers. They congregate on the tips of young shoots and on the underside of the leaves. If there aren’t many you can squash them but if there are more you will need to spray. If you need to spray edible crops see that you choose an insecticide that is suitable for this purpose and make sure you read the label. Some products give a minimum time between spraying and harvesting which must be obeyed.

I mentioned cabbage white caterpillars last month so cover the Brassica bed with a net if you haven’t already done so to keep the butterflies off the plants.

Another common pest is carrot fly. They lay their eggs close to the carrots and when the grubs hatch they tunnel into them and make them unusable. They detect the plants

by the smell so when thinning carrots, don’t leave the thinning’s lying about get rid of the away from the bed straight away. I think the best method of control is to make a physical barrier to stop the flies getting to the carrots.

You can make a “fence” around the bed with fleece supported by canes but it must be at least 4 feet (1.2 metres) tall. Last month I mentioned hardening off tender plants in cold frames. They are no longer needed in June so I take some to the allotment and grow carrots in them and cover them with fleece. There is no way the carrot flies can get in here.

Another common problem, of course, is slugs. They feed on our choice plants at night and hide during the day. I have read of several methods of control, including beer traps but I have never used them, I just use slug pellets sprinkled round susceptible plants. If you are an organic gardener, you can get organic slug pellets.

The first early potatoes may be ready for harvesting and also autumn sown broad beans, broccoli, early sown peas, beetroot, radish , lettuce, rocket, asparagus, spinach, garlic and rhubarb.

Aphids can make an appearance at any time, blackfly can affect broad and runner beans and greenfly can appear on many crops

Potatoes just dug up

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A year of reflection in the life of an active DA

by David Allison FNVS I thought it might be of interest to members and other DA’s to provide a short account of what the West Yorkshire District Association of the NVS got up to during 2016. As I am now Chairman of the DA, I have an obligation and duty to carry on the good work of my predecessors.

We have some brilliant growers, exhibitors and speakers within the DA, as well as general gardeners, and it’s always a challenge to ensure we cater for all tastes.

Dorothy, our secretary always manages to find some excellent speakers for our monthly meetings, which are well supported.

We decided, to add extra interest to our meetings to have a competitive class or two at each meeting from April to November, judged by a different judge chosen from the audience each month, and with points awarded for first second and third places. These were totted up during the year and those with most points for first, second and third were awarded an NVS tankard to keep, and presented at the AGM in December.

Way out in front was Peter Ridsdale, with quality exhibits every month, and a worthy winner. Second place was Jackie Kendall, a good grower of flowers, pot plants and vegetables and yours truly came in a poor third! We have decided to run the competition again this year and John Smiles is drawing up a schedule of classes, appropriate for the month, to give to members at our Feb meeting.

What we can’t control of course is the weather, and 2016 started off as a bit of a disaster. Boxing day saw torrential rain and subsequent floods all over the North of England, with many allotment sites under water as reported in my Chairman’s remarks this time last year. At least three sites used by our members in the Aire Valley, Wharfe Valley and Calder Valley suffered bad flooding, but

we are a resilient lot, and once the flooding subsided we cracked on getting the repair work done and preparing for the season ahead.

We started our monthly speaker meetings on a high, a superb presentation by David Metcalfe FNVS, Chairman of the Northern Branch, on growing and showing large exhibition onions. David is probably one of the best exhibitors of onions in the country at the moment, matching size with superb quality and uniformity.

February saw Gareth Hopcroft of Manchester travelling over the Pennines to give a talk on Hydroponics and variations thereof. A very detailed and technical presentation put across in a style that we all understood.

Gareth of course manufactures Charge (Beetle Poo!) which many growers rave about at the moment.

An excellent bio stimulant.

The rest of the years speakers were just as entertaining and educational, culminating in two talks by our own members, John Smiles in October and yours truly in November.

We put on a couple of displays during the year, 23rd July at Bingley, one of the North’s largest one day Agricultural shows, where they have a horticultural marquee. I think 2016 was one of the best displays we have put on at Bingley, and we are asked loads of questions during the day.

However, our main display every year is at Harrogate Autumn Show, where the footfall over the three days of the show is well over 35,000. It is also the venue of the Northern Branch Championships 4 years out of 5.

Until we arrive at the venue on the Thursday morning, we have no idea who is bringing what for the display, so we build it up as we go along. It shouldn’t, but it always seems to work! For 2016, it was held over the 3 days, 16th to 18th September. We were delighted

to have been awarded a gold award for our efforts, and the prize money and income from sales of leaflets, DVD’s, and books, plus the sale of veg at the end of the show from the display, funds our DA activities for the year, and it’s a good shop window for recruiting new members.

During the year, two of our members, Vice Chairman Paul Kitchingman and Olive Peel, attend a local junior school in Bradford, and helped with their outdoor garden, as reported in an earlier SV. As an added bonus, we arranged for tickets for three staff and about a dozen of the pupils to come over to Harrogate on the Thursday as we were setting up and allocated part of the display area for their own produce they had grown from seeds we supplied to them. Hope fully this will help to engender sufficient enthusiasm for them to continue with their gardening activities in adult life.

A brilliant team effort, and whilst we didn’t win best in show, it’s become the highlight in our DA activities, and enjoyed by all.

Our own DA show is always held as part of the Leeds Paxton Autumn Show, held in Paxton Hall at Kirkstall, Leeds, and 2016 was one of the best supported for many years. It was held on Sat 24th September.

An innovative idea by the Paxton committee for a couple of years has been a special class depicting the Olympic movement. It calls for five vases/dishes of either fruit, flowers, pot plants or vegetables, in the five colours of the Olympic flag, i.e. black, blue, yellow, red and green. In 2016 it was won by one of our DA members, Peter

Gold medal winning display by West Yorkshire DA at Harrogate Autumn Show

Premier award and best in show won by W Robinson & Son of Forton, Nr. Preston. At least we were beaten by another vegetable exhibit!

Mirfield allotments in West Yorkshire. Jan 2016

David is probably one of the best exhibitors of onions in the country at the moment

Mirfield allotments in West Yorkshire. Jan 2016

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West Yorkshire veg display at Bingley show 23rd July 2016

Ridsdale, with a very clever interpretation of the class requirements.

During the year we try to arrange a couple of visits to allotment sites in the area, or notable gardens. 2016 was no exception.

On 26th July we visited the Garden of Horticultural Journalist, RHS ambassador, and former Harrogate show director, Martin Fish at his garden at Rainton Nr Thirsk, North Yorkshire. About 24 of us made the trip, and were amazed at what Martin has done, developing a fruit, veg and ornamental garden from a field in about 6 years. He gave us a potted history of the garden, and his wife Jill, kept us supplied with tea, coffee and cakes. A very enjoyable evening.

We also visited Cottingley Bridge Allotments near Bingley on Tuesday 16th August, and were amazed at the transformation of a completed flooded site in January, (see Chairman’s remarks Spring 2016 issue) to a very productive allotment site with specialist growers of carnations, fuchsias, tomatoes and vegetables. We were made very welcome and we have been invited back again next year.

All in all a very busy, but enjoyable year.

2017 looks to be just as busy, and our programme of speakers is set out in the Northern Branch section.

The above is an excellent example of a busy, active and successful DA with a range of activities for their members and to attract new members which we need if we are to continue to thrive.

Hopefully the above gives some food for thought to DA’s that are struggling or

Individual class winner Dave Peel

who just want to widen their programme of activities. Try to get good quality speakers with a variation of topics and some visits to interesting gardens, allotments, shows or places of horticultural interest such as seed companies, growers or suppliers.

There are a good number of quality speakers available in the NVS and other sources of speakers are organisations like the RHS, National Trust, Land Based college (most counties have one). Also manufacturers, suppliers of seeds, pest and disease control products, fertilisers, nurseries and garden centres and professional growers. Some counties have Horticultural Federations that often produce speakers list or have contacts for speakers. It is also well worth reading the Branch News as there are good ideas for topics and speakers and the DA’s that send in their news I would suggest are some of the more active and successful ones. - Ed.

Individual class winner Steve Bundy

Individual class winner David Allison

Peter Ridsdale with his winning “Olympic” exhibit at West Yorkshire’s DA show on 24th Sept 2016

Cottingley Bridge allotments, Jan 2016, Flood damage, pure devastation

Martin Fish welcoming us to his garden and telling us about its development

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G R O W your own crop of mouthwatering sweet S T R AW B E R R I E S

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Growing in Containers Although container gardening is predominantly considered to be for those with little garden space, it can also be useful for people that are renting housing as it means your plants can move with you if you decide to relocate.

You can grow plants in a variety of containers such as pots, grow bags, hanging baskets, window boxes or troughs. Although growing in a pot sounds like simply growing in a classic terracotta pot, there are a lot of new innovations available that allow for air circulation and self-watering that can really help growers, so you may have more choice than you initially thought.

Some vegetables really flourish when grown in a container such as beetroot, lettuce, potatoes, chillies, tomatoes, spring onions, peas, herbs and runner beans. You should always check to see which plants like certain levels of sunlight but once you know this, your container growing should be simple.

One of the best things about growing in containers is that it doesn’t matter what soil type you have as you are able to use compost instead. This can really help growers that have clay, acid or chalk soil, which is typically difficult to work with.

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Plant Families

by Derek Broos FNVS Plants are grouped in categories called families that consist of plants that are grouped together according to their flower structure, or the structure of the whole plant.

Each family is divided into genera which, in turn, are subdivided into species. Latin names for plants normally consist of two words, the first being the genus and the second the species. Within the species there are cultivated varieties called cultivars.

For example, the onion is Allium cepa and the leek is Allium porrum. Allium is the genus, and cepa and porrum are species within that genus. Both belong to the family Alliaceae. As you know, onions and leeks exist in several varieties, or cultivars.

I find the study of plant families fascinating. When I see a plant, whether a flower or a vegetable, I always want to know which family it belongs to. If I don’t know, I try to find out.

Apart from this knowledge being interesting, it is valuable because it helps with the cultivation of the plants. Very often, plants of the same family have similar cultivation requirements.

Another important point is that many of the pests and diseases attack plants of the same family, whether they are vegetables, flowers or even weeds. For example, clubroot attacks vegetables of the cabbage family but can also attack wallflowers and stocks which are in the same family,if the conditions are right.

There are scores of plant families, but for this article, because most readers are members of the National Vegetable Society, I am going to concentrate on those families that contain vegetables, herbs or fruit.

To my knowledge, vegetables and herbs are only present in fourteen families, and fruits in four. I don’t think there is a family that contains both a vegetable and a fruit. I will mention which vegetables, herbs and fruit are in each family and also the most common flowers and weeds. I will also describe the characteristics of the most common families.

feverfew and tarragon.

Many of the popular cultivated flowers belong to this family—chrysanthemums, dahlias, zinnias, marigolds and many more.

Apart from daisies, there are lots of other weeds in this family. The most common are dandelions, groundsel, ragwort, hawkweeds and thistles. All these have parachute-like seeds and blow about in the wind (from other people’s plots to mine!)(only joking). It is important that these weeds are not allowed to seed so remove the flowers before they do so. Another weed in this family that I have only come across in the last few years is shaggy soldier. It has very small white flowers with a central yellow disc (smaller than a daisy) and is becoming a nuisance on my allotment.

Latin names for plants normally consist of two words, the first being the genus and the second the species

VEGETABLES AND HERBS Compositae/Asteraceae (Daisy family) This is the largest of all plant families. The flowers are daisy-like with a central disc of tightly packed florets surrounded by ray florets. Flowers are mainly yellow or white but cultivated flowers are in several colours.

Vegetables in this family are lettuce, endive, chicory, salsify, scorzonera, and artichokes. Herbs are represented by

Cruciferae/ Brassicaceae (Cabbage family) All members of this family have flowers with four petals and four sepals arranged in a cross (hence the original name Cruciferae). The flowers are mostly yellow or white but occasionally lilac.

Vegetables in this family, besides cabbages, are cauliflowers, turnips, swedes, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, radish, kale, kohl rabi, mustard and cress.

Common flowers related to them are wallflowers, stocks, alyssum and candytuft.

Wild flowers and weeds are represented by shepherds purse, charlock, lady’s smock, garlic mustard and bittercress. The last mentioned is a weed that is particularly troublesome because when the seeds are ripe the pods burst open and the seeds shoot out a considerable distance so hoe them out or hand weed them before they seed.

Leguminosae/Papilionaceae (Pea family) Flowers in this family have five petals, -an erect one at the top two narrower ones at the sides and two lower ones. Seeds are contained in the familiar pods called legumes.

Apart from peas, this family is represented by the various kinds of beans. Cultivated flowers are lupins, and sweet peas. Wild flowers in this family are meadow pea, clovers, vetches and trefoils.

Umbelliferae/Apiaceae (Carrot family) Flowers are mostly white but a few are yellow. They are arranged in umbrella-like heads called umbels and the small individual flowers have five petals. Very often, the umbels are branched giving secondary umbels.

Vegetables in this family are carrots, parsnips, celery, celeriac, and fennel. Herbs are represented by dill, parsley and coriander.

There are a few cultivated flowers but none are widely grown. Wild flowers include hogweed, cow parsley, hemlock(very poisonous), and ground elder (a very troublesome weed ).

Alliaceae/Liliaceae Some books list these two families separately but the Royal Horticultural Society,in their “Encyclopaedia of plants and flowers “ list them together and who am I to argue with them?

They are bulbous plants with sword like leaves and many have a characteristic smell.

Flowers have tight heads or open umbels.

Vegetables in this family are onions, leeks, shallots, garlic and asparagus. Herbs are represented by chives.

There are plenty of flowers in the Liliaceae family apart from lilies. The best known are tulips, hyacinths, crown imperials, red hot pokers and Soloman’s seal.

Polygonaceae (Docks and sorrels) Plants with alternate leaves with papery sheaths and small greenish flowers in branched spikes. Many weeds in this family have swollen stems at their junctions .

Rhubarb is the only vegetable in the family and herbs are represented by sorrel.

There are no common cultivated plants but several weeds. Some, particularly docks, are difficult to get rid of because they have a long tap root and difficult to dig out. One of the most difficult weeds to get rid of is Japanese knotweed (glad that I don’t have it on my plot ). Others are bistort, red leg and knotgrass. There are cultivated varieties of bistort, though.

Chenopodiaceae (Goosefoots) Mostly plants with small greenish petal-less flowers in spikes. Vegetables in this family are beetroot, seakales, spinach and Good King Henry.

I don’t think there are any cultivated flowers in this family . There are a few weeds, the most troublesome being Fat hen because

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it produces an enormous number of seeds which it scatters around.

Cucurbitaceae (Melon family) Climbing or trailing plants with tendrils opposite the leaf stalks. Plants have both male and female flowers that are usually yellow.

This family is represented by melons, cucumbers, marrows, pumpkins and squashes. . There are no common flowers or weeds.

Solanaceae (Potato family) Vegetables in this family, apart from potatoes, are tomatoes, aubergines, capsicums (peppers ) and cape gooseberry.

Cultivated flowers are nicotiana (flowering tobacco), petunia, salpiglossis, and schizanthus. Wild flowers include deadly nightshade and woody nightshade but not enchanter’s nightshade because this is in the willow herb family (onagraceae) Gramineae (Grasses) Grasses do not need much description. They are monocotyledons, which means they have only one seed leaf emerging from the seed .

The only vegetable in this family is sweet corn but there are plenty of cultivated and wild grasses, too numerous to mention.

Some are very troublesome weeds, particularly couch grass that spreads by creeping rootstocks and difficult to dig out.

Valerianaceae Another family with only one common vegetable – corn salad. There are two fairly common flowers – common valerian and red valerian. Red valerian is quite abundant on walls and cliffs, mainly in Wales and the South West.; Agaricaceae These are not flowering plants but are fungi. I have included them because some members are edible, particularly mushrooms.

Salvias. There are also Nepeta (catmint ), monarda, and physostegia as well as the popular foliage plant, coleus.

Wild flowers include dead nettles, bugle and woundworts.

Boraginaceae To my knowledge, this is the only other family that contains a herb and this is borage.

Cultivated flowers include forget-me-nots, echium, anchusa and lungwort. Wild flowers are comfrey (knitbone ) and the beautiful blue, viper’s bugloss.

FRUIT Rosaceae (Rose family) Rose flowers are familiar enough and are, I think, the most widely cultivated flowers.

The vast majority of fruits are in this family and include apples, pears, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, loganberries, tayberries, apricots, cherries, peaches, nectarines and plums.

Look at the structure of the flowers and you will see the similarity between them and single roses.

Apart from roses, cultivated flowers are geums, lady’s mantle and goats beard (Aruncus). Wild flowers, apart from roses, are meadowsweet, the cinquefoils, tormentil and herb bennet.

Saxifragaceae/Grossulariaceae Most books group these families together.

They are represented in fruits by currants and gooseberries. Flowers include saxifrages, astilbe, heuchera, rodgersia and bergenia Vitaceae Grapes are the only fruit in this family and there are no common flowers.

Moraceae The last family and just two fruits – figs and mulberries. There are several ornamental figs but they are mainly foliage plants.

Labiatae (sometimes called Lamiaceae ) Some herbs have been mentioned in the above families along with vegetables but most of the common herbs are in this family.

They are aromatic plants with two-lipped flowers on whorled heads or spikes. This family is also characterised by having square stems.

Herbs in this family include sage, thyme, mint, basil, marjoram, hyssop, rosemary, lavender, balm and savory.

The most common cultivated flowers are simplyvegetables 33

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New Special Competition for 2017 Back in Spring of 2016, our members received free Montello Tomato seeds to enable to them to grow some wonderfully vigorous and tasty Midi Plum Tomatoes and hopefully compete in the special competition held in Malvern supported by our generous sponsor, Marshalls seeds, who provided both the free seeds and prize money.

The Midland’s Branch Championships, hosted at Malvern saw 44 entries staged of the Montello tomato class and First prize was awarded to a delighted Simon Smith. See the photographs of the quality of tomatoes grown.

Following the success of that Competition, Marshalls are once again supporting the NVS with a special competition, but this time it’s Dwarf French Beans.

For your information, 2016 was declared as the International Year of Pulses by the United Nations. An International Year designation provides an unprecedented opportunity to raise awareness and to celebrate the role of beans, chickpeas, lentils and other pulses in feeding the world. A new French Bean was developed & bred, by the Clause Tezier seed company in France. This Dwarf French bean, called Satelit, is Marshall’s new trial bean for 2017.

A free packet of this Bean is included with your Spring edition of the Simply Vegetables magazine.

The difference this year is that each individual Branch will add this special competition class to their Branch Championships to enable more members a chance to compete. The requirement will be to stage a quantity of nine pods.

Enclosed with this copy of Simply Vegetables is a packet of Marshalls Dwarf French Bean Satelit. Marshalls have provided a very generous sponsorship to each branch of £100.00 for prize money to be distributed as first prize £75.00, second prize £15.00, third prize £10.00. The class is for a dish of 9 beans, so remember uniformity, straightness, leave a stalk, good colour, even thickness (no Beans showing) and check you have 9!

As all members will be using the same seed this removes the advantage of growers having better cultivars that can help them win the first prize. This competition should be down to grower skill, knowledge and possible a bit of luck!

With that type of prize money, it is well worth a try even for members who do not often show. Further details about the bean can be found on page 38 of the last edition of Simply Vegetables. The bean is a stringless type with reputed good taste so even if grown just for eating it should be worth the effort of growing.

Both Marshalls and I am sure other readers would be keen on feedback so once you have won the prize let the rest of us know how you did it and if just grown for eating let us know whether it is a good cropper and if you happy with it.

Check the dates of your branch championship as this could affect the sowing date, if you have an early show you may need to sow not long after you receive the seed, if a late show you could delay sowing until June.

The best of luck and may the best growers win!

first prize

£75!

Great tasting, stringless filet bean It has a nice straight Pencil Pod with beans approx. 13cm long & 6-7mm in diameter They will keep cropping until the first frost with no loss of flavour It is a very early variety with cold tolerance for early crops and will crop right through to the first frosts from later sowings the pods are held up and away from the foliage cropping 60 days after sowing It is white seeded Disease resistant to Common Mosaic virus and Anthracnose Cropping over a long period, harvesting daily for 3-4 weeks

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Biological control on cucumbers

Biological Control

by Kelvin Mason Biological control has come to the fore in recent years owing to the reduction in the number of chemicals available to both the amateur and professional growers. Also the trend partly towards organic growing and a general move to a healthier environment.

Many consumers do not want to buy fruit and vegetables that have been heavily treated with chemicals.

Many people especially if they are new to growing may think biological control is new and has recently been developed over the last couple of decades. In fact, early methods of biological control were used in the 1800’s both in America and Australia. In the U.K early methods of biological control were being used in greenhouses in the 1960’s with varying degrees of success.

These have since been developed and our knowledge of how to use predators and parasites to control pests has improved considerable.

At this point I should probably clarify a few terms that you may come across when using biological control; so first what is biological control, it is the control of pests and diseases using other organisms. An example being using ladybirds to control (by eating) aphids.

In many cases the biological control are predators or parasites of the pest or disease.

They are not all insects as other organisms

like fungus, bacteria and virus are used.

Another term, and one which you should consider is Integrated Pest Management (IPM) which also has a few other names but IPM is the most widely used. Often IPM and biological control are referred to as if they are the same thing which they are not.

Biological control is used as part of an IPM programme. Whereas IPM is a method of controlling pests and diseases using a range of control methods which include biological controls and also cultural controls, physical controls and chemicals (usually as a last resort). By combining these methods, it gives a better control and you are not reliant on one method. IPM also makes use of natural controls such as centipedes and frogs eating slug eggs.

I mentioned earlier that biological control was developed in the U.K for use in greenhouses; this was partly because these are a controlled environment so it was easier to monitor and use the predators and they could not fly away to your neighbour’s gardens!

Two of the early predators used were a wasp called Encarsia Formosa and a mite called Phytoseiulus persimilis. The Encarsia is used to control greenhouse whitefly (not the Brassica whitefly which is a different species).

It worked fairly well but if it was necessary to control other pests in the greenhouse the

Early methods of biological control were used in the 1800’s both in America and Australia

chemicals used often killed the Encarsia and then the whitefly increased and became a problem. The Phytoseiulus mite is used to control glasshouse red spider mite (different from the fruit tree red spider mite). Both are troublesome pests which can often become resistant to chemical controls.

Over the last few decades as more research has been carried out and less chemicals available many more biological controls have come on to the market.

Research is continuing and more are in the pipeline and will become available in the next few years.

Before I set out some of the biological controls available I will look at some of the factors to be considered: 1. Correctly identify the pest as many biological controls are very specific and will only attack one or a limited range of pests. So if the wrong predator is introduced it will have no effect and money has been wasted.

2. The uses of any chemicals needs to be carefully considered as many will kill the biological controls as well as any pests; which puts you back to square one. There are a few chemicals available that can be used with some of the predators and parasites but this needs to be checked before using them.

3. Check when the biological control should be introduced and at what rate. Many need a certain temperature before they become active and if simplyvegetables 35

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introduced at a lower temperature tend to go into a semi hibernation until it warms up; mean while the pests get out of control. So a too early application is a waste of money.

The rate of introduction is how many predators / parasites to introduce on to the crop, some are better if applied over a few weeks rather than all put in in one go.

4. Monitor the controls regularly to ensure they are working. It may be necessary to add more biological controls until a natural balance is achieved and the pest is no longer a problem. It may also be necessary to use a chemical in an emergency if the pest gets out of control.

5. Biological controls often do not give 100% control of the pest and this is understandable as if they removed all the pests they would have no food and would starve to death. The pest could then return and there would be no control available.

6. Like chemicals it is important to read the instructions on the pack or leaflet enclosed on how to use the biological control and follow these instructions.

If not applied correctly, they may not work and you have wasted your money.

I have used the botanical Latin name when discussing the biological controls as they are sold under different trade names for the same controls. So the same biological control can be brought from different companies but under a different brand name.

The naming system for insects and fungi is the same as for plants using a genus and species as it was developed by Swedish botanist Carl Von Linne.

I have set out below a number of common pests and some of the biological controls available. Some can be purchased from garden centres and nurseries but they are all available by mail order and via the internet. Once ordered they are sent by post or delivery service in small containers and should be used within a couple of days of delivery. Some can be stored in a refrigerator

Blue sticky trap

for up to a week but check the instructions as many would not survive in this cold environment.

Aphids (greenfly, blackfly and others) Both the ladybird adult and its larvae (Adalia bipunctata) will feed on aphids and will also eat some other small pests and their eggs.

They can be used outdoors between May and September as well as in greenhouses.

Lacewing larvae (Chrysopa carnea) give a good control of aphids and will also control thrips, red spider mite and mealybug.

Lacewing should be introduced from April to August when the aphids are first seen and can be used both indoors and outside.

There are a number of predatory wasps that parasitise aphids. The female wasps lay her eggs inside the aphids, these hatch and the larvae live inside the aphid. When fully grown the larvae pupates inside the aphid and then a new parasitic wasp emerges.

These parasitic wasps include Aphidius colemani, Aphidius matricarae, Aphidius ervi, Aphelinus abdominalis. Aphidiletes is a predatory midge that attacks aphids.

Also available are hoverfly larvae (Episyrphus bulteatus) which is a common insect in the U.K. The larvae feed on the aphids by sucking the juices from the aphid and then casting the skin aside – a bit like Henry VIII and his chicken / meat bones? The adult hoverfly is also a useful pollinator so you get to two for the price of one!

Other predators of whitefly include Delphastus catalinae a predatory beetle and one that is being more widely used now is Eretmocerus eremicus another predatory wasp; this is sometimes sold with Encarsia as a mixture. There are also a couple of predatory mites called Amblydromalus limonicus and Amblyseius swirskii.

So far I have covered insects and mites that are used to control pests but there are also a number of fungi that will kill pests. One of these is Lecanicillium muscarium which is an entomopathogenic fungus that is supplied as a powder and is mixed with water and sprayed onto the plants. Once on the plants it infects the whitefly killing them.

Another fungus that attacks whitefly is Beauveria bassiana which is supplied as a powder and again sprayed on to the crop plants. To work effectively it needs a temperature of 20 to 30°C and a relative humidity of over 70%. The spores of this fungus get into the whitefly by contact from the leaves and then germinate and penetrate the insect’s cuticle. The fungus grows within the insect’s body completely taking it over and kills the pest in 5 to 7 days although they stop feeding before then.

Glasshouse Whitefly and also Tobacco Whitefly I mentioned earlier in the article the predatory wasp Encarsia Formosa which lays its eggs in the whitefly scales (these are young whitefly that have not matured to adults and have not yet developed wings). The Encarsia eggs hatch into larvae which kills the scale and this turns black. Once mature the larvae emerges from the scale as a wasp.

Red Spider Mite This is the greenhouse red spider mite which will not survive outdoors over winter in the U.K. If the greenhouse is heated they will live all the year round; if it is a cold (unheated) greenhouse the red spider mite hibernates over winter and comes out in spring when it is warmer and you have new plants in the greenhouse. They will live outdoors in the summer so may infect some plants then causing some damage.

The greenhouse red spider mite, like the whitefly was one of the early pests controlled by biological controls. The mite Phytoseiulus persimilis was the first used and this gives a good control if applied early enough

Red Spider Mite on Melon

Yellow sticky trap

The greenhouse red spider mite, like the whitefly was one of the early pests controlled by biological controls

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before the red spider population builds up.

A new control is a bug called Macrolophus pygmaeus which as well as attacking red spider mite will also help control whitefly and other small pests.

Another predatory mite is Neoseiulus californicus which will eat both the greenhouse red spider mite and the fruit tree red spider mite.

Thrips Thrips are attacked by a wide range of biological controls including some of those previously mentioned such as Amblyseius swirksii and Amblydromalus limonicus that are used for whitefly control. Another species of Neoseiulus that attacks thrips is Neoseiulus cucumeris and this will also eat other pests as well. The entomopathogenic fungus Lecanicillium helps to control thrips as well as whitefly.

I have mentioned both mites and wasps that attack pests but more of you may be aware of the nematodes (eelworms or microscopic worms) that can be used for pest controls.

One that will control thrips is Steinernema feltiae. It is Important to use the correct nematode for the pest you wish to control as most are fairly specific in the pests they attack.

Finally, for thrip control there is a mite called Hypoaspis miles which eats the eggs and larvae of the thrips.

grub killing it. If the growing media includes the fungus this will be indicated on the bag with a logo saying Met52. It can be brought as a granule to mix into growing media or can be mixed with a mulch and applied on top of containers.

Mealy Bug This is not a bad pest of vegetable crops even in greenhouses as it tends to attack perennial plants like houseplants. Once established Mealybug can be very difficult to control as it has built up resistance to many chemicals. Its outer covering of waxy hairs also gives it some protection from sprays and predators.

There is predatory beetle, a small ladybird that will hunt it down and control it, this is called Crytolaemus montrouzieri. It should be introduced onto the plants between June and August and needs a temperature of over 20°C to work effectively.

Moving onto some of the outdoor crop pests that can be controlled using biological controls I will start with the main pest slugs.

Once established Mealybug can be very difficult to control as it has built up resistance to many chemicals

Vine Weevil This has become a major pest of plants grown in containers especially if grown in a peat, coir or recycled compost. The larvae eat the roots of the crop plant which results in its death. There were chemicals available to control it but these are no longer available to the amateur grower.

Vine weevil can be controlled using nematodes called Heterorhabditis bacteriophora and Steinernema kraussei which will also attack some other soil dwelling pests. It is applied by mixing a carrier that contains the nematodes with water and watering it on to the growing media. It is better used as a preventative than a cure, so if you have had problems with vine weevil in the past it apply before they attack this year. The packs supplied contain millions of nematodes so each pot / container will be dosed with hundreds if not thousands in a large container.

The nematode searches out the vine weevil grubs and enters it via natural opens; it lives on the insides of the larvae and lays its eggs.

These hatch out and then search for more vine weevils. The nematodes carry some bacteria that kills the vine weevil larvae so they stop feeding well before the eggs hatch.

Vine weevil is also attacked by an entomopathogenic fungus called Metarhizium anisopliae. This is mixed with the growing media and can be purchased ready mixed or can be added by the grower. If any vine weevil hatch in the growing media, they are infected by the fungus which germinates on their cuticle (outer skin) and grows inside the

Slugs These can be controlled using a native nematode called Pasmarhabditis hermaphrodita, this is supplied as a powder which is mixed with water and either watered or sprayed on to the soil. It should be applied to moist soil any time between mid-March to early October.

A second application can be applied 6 to 8 weeks later to catch the next generation of slugs and any that have moved into the area.

The nematode feeds and breeds inside the slug which usually hide underground where they die. They stop feeding within a day or so of being infected.

Cutworms and some Caterpillars Another nematode called Steinernema carpocapsae will attack cutworms which is a large grub that attacks seedlings and other soft plant tissue just below the soil level. This nematode will also control some caterpillars of certain butterflies and moths that eat the foliage and soft stems of some plants.

The cabbage white caterpillar can be controlled using a bacterium called Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies kurstaki (it needs to be this particular species, some of the others control different pests). It will also control the tortrix moth that attacks apples.

This bacterium is very selective as it only kills caterpillars in the Lepidoptera family but unfortunately that include many of our butterflies and moths. Therefore, it should only be sprayed onto the plants you wish to protect. The caterpillar eats the leaves that have been sprayed and ingests the bacteria, once it has eaten a lethal dose it stops feeding but will remain alive on the plant for a few days before dying. The plants should be sprayed as soon as the caterpillars hatch from the eggs and start eating. This prevents any major damage and gives a good control.

Moving on from the bacteria we have the viruses which cause problems such as influenza in birds and humans. There are

Bioline

also many viruses which infect plants and stunt plant growth reducing flowering and fruiting. But luckily there are virus that attack pests and these are being discovered and produced for biological control. One that is now available but mainly to professional growers is Granulosis Virus M which is used to control codling moth grubs a major pest of apples and pears. It is supplied as a liquid that is diluted with water and sprayed onto the fruit crop once the fruit has set and right up to harvesting. The larvae eat the virus on the fruit, the virus then replicates inside the larvae which leads to it death. It is a naturally occurring insect virus and was isolated from some codling moth larvae; it has not been bred by man.

So far I have covered pests but over the last few years some biological controls of diseases have become available. There is a limited range at present but over the next five to ten years more will be discovered and developed.

Powdery Mildews This can be a bad disease of cucumbers, courgettes, melons, strawberries and sometimes tomatoes. It will attack the leaves, stems and fruits and soon stunts the plants growth and reduces yields. Powdery mildew can now be controlled using a parasitic fungus called Ampelomyces quisqualis which is sold as granules that is diluted with water and sprayed onto the plants before powdery mildew is seen. This helps to prevent an attack and repeat sprays will be required to prevent an attack through the season. The parasitic fungus germinates and penetrates the mildew fungus and grows inside it causing it to collapse and die.

The range of biological controls mentioned above are available from a number of suppliers and some may be only available to professional growers at present but hopefully will become available to the amateur grower soon.

In the next article I will look at some of the naturally occurring biological controls in the garden and allotment that we should be encouraging.

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NVS branded clothing The NVS has teamed up with “The Hockey Centre” to provide easy access to official NVS branded clothing with no minimum order requirements. This garment collection is accessible from the NVS website by selecting the Shop tab on the home page, then select NVS clothing. On the next screen there is a link that takes you to the selection of garments on offer, the sizes that they are available in and the ordering process. The items that are currently available are shown below.

Happy shopping!

Ian Clemens Chair NVS Southern Branch

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Beanie hat

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Protecting your poultry Bodywarmer

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Sweat shirt

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Rain jacket

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Fleece

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How to keep your birds safe from Avian Influenza (bird flu) Avian Influenza, also known as bird flu, is a disease that affects all types of poultry.

Where possible, move birds into a suitable building, like a shed or outbuilding adapted to house them, or a new temporary structure like a lean-to or a polytunnel. Put netting over openings to stop wild birds getting in and remove any hazardous substances.

It is your responsibility to ensure your birds’ welfare while indoors and keep them calm and comfortable: • If you keep several types of birds, house chickens or turkeys in separate enclosures from ducks and geese. Check the birds regularly to ensure they are healthy and have enough food, water and dry bedding.

• Keep the environment interesting to reduce the risk of feather pecking. Add fresh bedding, straw bales, perches and objects such as cabbages, scatter feed or grain on the floor and add grit to litter to encourage birds to scratch.

• Make sure birds have natural light where possible and are not permanently in the dark. Light should ideally follow typical day and night patterns.

• Skin parasites like red mite can be a problem in birds kept indoors and can make birds more irritable. Advice on controlling parasites can be obtained from your vet.

Further details can be found at www.gov.uk/guidance/avianinfluenza-bird-flu This information has been put together by Defra with the British Veterinary Association (BVA), Royal Veterinary College (RVC) and British Poultry Association (BVPA).

Source: www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/ attachment_data/file/581952/ai-birdflu-factsheet-170106.pdf

Women’s Blouse

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ForFarmers range of Farmgate Feeds has been the market leader in Smallholder feedstuffs for nearly twenty years. Farmgate Feeds provide a complete range of feed to suit a wide variety of poultry and livestock. This includes; Chickens, Goats, Ducks, Pigs, Sheep, Calves and Cows.

All feeds in the Farmgate range are premium products using only the very best ingredients, assuring our smallholder customers that the Farmgate range is backed by the same nutritional expertise and experience, which larger farmers and producers have trusted and relied upon for many years.

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Aphids and Related Pests

By Derek Brooks FNVS Aphids are a major pest on a wide range of plants and there are hundreds of different species. Some will only attack one type of plant or a group of closely related plants but others will attack a wider range.

They are often referred to as greenfly but they are not always green. They can also be grey, white, pink or black. Some have wings and can therefore travel from plant to plant which is how they spread but others are wingless.

They multiply very quickly and only take about a fortnight to become adult and start another generation. Also they breed by parthenogenesis which means they can produce offspring without mating which of course makes reproduction even quicker.

Reproduction is temperature dependant, being much quicker in the warmer weather of spring and summer. The reproduction is also partly day length related in that when the days are shortening in the autumn the aphids will produce winged youngsters which are capable of flying off to their winter host plant.

The types of aphids most likely to trouble vegetable growers are the carrot willow aphid, bean blackfly, mealy cabbage aphid and lettuce root aphid.

and forwards every few minutes with not only aphids but small caterpillars as well. They must get rid of vast quantities whilst bring up there brood.

Ladybirds and hoverflies are important predators which we should do our best to encourage in the garden.

Ladybirds can be persuaded to overwinter by using ladybird boxes which can be bought from many garden centres. You can also make your own by bundling together hollow stems and hanging them up somewhere.

Hoverflies are attracted to flowers and half of my allotment is devoted to them, and of course they not only attract predators but pollinators as well which is very important as well as looking attractive. Two plants that particularly attract hoverflies are Limnanthes douglasii, the poached egg plant, and Phacelia tanacetifolia, a blue flowered plant sometimes used as green manure.

Chemical control The best approach for aphid control is to inspect your plants as often as possible and treat the pests early before they multiply.

Before we resort to chemicals, small infestations can be squashed between finger and thumb.

There are several sprays on the market which will kill aphids but it is best not to use the same one all the time because the pests can build up a resistance to certain ones.

Sprays can be contact in action or systemic. Contact insecticides, as the name suggests need to come into contact with the pests so thorough spraying is needed paying particular attention to the underside of the leaves. Systemic insecticides actually go inside the plants and are carried to all parts by the sap. Because aphids are sap sucking insects, systemic sprays are particularly useful.

Chemicals available to amateurs are constantly changing and since this article was first published in 2003 many of the chemicals available then have disappeared from garden centre shelves. I have recently been to several garden centres and made a list of those which are available but by the time you read this some of those may have gone too!

The most important thing when using chemicals is to read the label and follow the

The best approach for aphid control is to inspect your plants as often as possible and treat the pests early before they multiply

Symptoms Most types attack first on young green shoots of their favoured plants. Apart from seeing the pests the first sign is usually a discolouration or puckering of the young foliage caused by the pests sucking the sap. This method of feeding is common to all aphids. Plants that are badly affected show reduced growth as well as physical damage. The pests also congregate on the undersides of the leaves where they secrete a sweet sticky substance called honeydew on which a black sooty mould grows and makes the plants unsightly. It can be washed or rubbed off but will return unless the pests are controlled.

Another problem with aphids is that they can spread virus diseases. If an aphid sucks the sap from a virus infected plants, then goes to another plant the virus will be transmitted to the other plant when it feeds.

Certain viruses are very detrimental to plants and those badly affected should be dug up and burned. Flowering plants like dahlias and chrysanthemums, fruit bushes such as blackcurrants, raspberries and strawberries are particularly prone and among vegetables, cucumbers, marrows and also squashes.

Natural predators Before we think about chemical controls we must first consider natural predators. I consider the best control in my own garden in spring is a nest full of hungry blue tits or great tits. The parents are coming backwards

instructions, particularly on which crops the chemical is permitted to be used on and also the period between spraying and harvesting.

Much of what I have just written about chemicals I have said in a previous article but forgive me for repeating it because I think it is important.

These general notes on aphid control apply to most types but the following merit a further mention.

Black bean aphid These mostly attack broad beans but French beans and runner beans are sometimes affected in the summer. In the case of broad beans, the aphids congregate in large quantities on the tips of the plants. Some control can be obtained by pinching off the top few inches as soon as the beans begin to form. Some varieties of broad beans can be sown in the autumn and overwintered so this is another method of control because the beans should be ready for harvesting before the aphids arrive. (This certainly works very well for me – Ed) Mealy cabbage aphid In spite of the name this pest is likely on all members of the brassica family, not just cabbages so inspect all these plants. They congregate in groups on the underside of the leaves causing puckering and distortion.

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Whitefly

Woolly aphid This is a troublesome pest but mostly on apple trees. The problem is that they cover themselves with a waxy coating giving them some protection against insecticides and predators. If the infestation is severe it is difficult to control so catch it early. They often collect in the cracks between the bark which makes spraying difficult. The spray needs to be used with some force in an attempt to break the waxy coating. If the infestation is not too great, another possibility is to apply the insecticide with a brush.

Whitefly Whitefly are not aphids but are closely related so it is convenient to include them in this article. There are two types we are concerned with, the cabbage, or brassica whitefly and the glasshouse whitefly which attacks tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers. They are not the same species but they look the same and are both equally troublesome.

The adults look like tiny white moths and they fly up when the plants are disturbed.

They lay their eggs on the underside of the leaves which hatch into nymphs. There are several generations in a season and many overwinter as adults. Several insecticides on the market claim to kill whitefly but the plants need spraying at regular intervals because they only kill the adults and not the eggs or nymphs, and pay particular attention to the underside of the leaves. The spray that I find effective is Bio Sprayday. This is still available at the time of writing but don’t forget what I said earlier that sprays on garden centre shelves are constantly changing so how long this will be available I don’t know.

Another method for use in the greenhouse is to use biological control. This is a small parasitic wasp called Encarsia formosa (or Chalcid wasp). These can be purchased from some garden centres or from specialist suppliers. The containers are hung among

Several insecticides on the market claim to kill whitefly but the plants need spraying at regular intervals

Lettuce root aphid As the name suggests these aphids live in the soil and feed on the roots of the plants causing them to wilt. The only control is to drench the soil round the plants with insecticide. The eggs of the pests overwinter on the bark of certain poplar trees like the Lombardy poplar. In the spring the eggs hatch and feed on the young leaf stalks on the poplar tree and produce a gall. The female then produces more young inside the gall which will fly to the lettuce plant and live on the roots. Some varieties of lettuce are claimed to be resistant to this pest, namely Little Gem (most suppliers) and Lakeland (Dobies, Marshalls and Fothergills)

the plants and the wasp’s parasitise the whitefly nymphs. There must be whitefly present when the wasps are introduced or they would have nothing to feed on and would die out. If this method is being used you cannot use insecticides as well Another successful method of control is to use yellow sticky traps hung above the plants. These can be brought from most garden centres. Every time you go into the greenhouse give the plants a shake. The pests then fly up and meet their end on the sticky traps. Yet another method is to shake the plants as before but suck the pests up with a vacuum cleaner.

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www.reminscotland.com simplyvegetables 41

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Mildew

By Derek Brooks FNVS There are many species of this disease and each one attacks its own favoured type of plant or those closely related.

Broadly speaking there are two main typesPowdery mildew and Downy mildew.

Powdery mildew This is characterised by a white powdery growth in patches on the surface of the leaves. In bad attacks it can also spread to the underside of the leaves and stems of the plants. Leaves may become distorted. It can attack ornamental plants and also fruit. If fruit trees are affected the fruits will not develop properly and remain small. There is a specific type of mildew that attacks gooseberries called American gooseberry mildew.

In the case of vegetables, we are concerned with peas, beans, cucumbers, marrows, courgettes, turnips and swedes.

The disease normally starts when the soil is dry, yet the atmosphere round the plants is moist. It is important, therefore to keep the soil well watered, and if the plants are in a greenhouse or polytunnel, avoid overhead watering. Remove infected leaves as soon as you see them and spray the rest of the plants with fungicide to prevent the disease spreading.

Downy mildew This is characterised by yellow patches on the surface of the leaves accompanied by a grey or white fungal growth on the underside.

In bad cases the whole leaves may wither and die. It occurs mostly in wet conditions and affects a whole range of plants. In the case of vegetables, it is common on beans, brassicas, lettuce, onions, peas and spinach.

Phlox Mildew

Young plants are more susceptible to this disease than mature plants but it does affect these as well. With lettuces it starts on the older leaves so remove these as soon as the disease is seen. If the infection is bad the whole plant may be unusable. With onions, unless the disease is checked it may spread down to the bulbs causing them to rot.

Chemical control When the disease is first spotted the thing to do is remove infected leaves then spray the rest of the plants with a fungicide. Fungicides will not cure leaves that are already infected but they will help to prevent it spreading to other plants.

Two products available for this purpose at present are Dithane 945 and Systhane.

Dithane claims to be effective against both powdery and downy mildew. Systhane claims to cure powdery mildew and also American gooseberry mildew. However, don’t forget what I have said in other articles that products available to amateurs are constantly changing. These two products are still available at the time of writing.

Resistant cultivars Another thing we can do to prevent these diseases is to grow resistant cultivars. I have been looking through seed catalogues to see which cultivars the suppliers claim to be resistant. I can’t find any beans that are claimed to be resistant but there are plenty in other vegetables particularly lettuce and peas. There are too many for me to list them all so I am just going to tell you the cultivars that are most readily available and sold by several suppliers.

Indoor cucumbers Carmen (D, T, R, Sh, B, F, Me.), Bella (T, B, F.), Louisa (B, F, Me.) Passandra ( D, R, Sh, F.) Outdoor cucumbers Burpless tasty green

(most suppliers), Marketmore (most suppliers) Courgettes Tosca (D, Sh, Me.), Best of British (T, B, F, Me) Melons Outdoor wonder (T, M.), Antalya (B, F.) Onions Santera (most suppliers), Toughball (Sh, B, Me), Kamal (D, S, Sh) Lettuce Viala winter gem (D, S, T, B, F), Amaze (D, S, M, B, F ), Lakeland (D, M, F), Clarion (Sh, B, F) Leeks Oarsman (T, M, Sh, B) Pumpkins Honey bear (B, F) Squash Delakates (F), Broccoli and calabrese, Parthenon (D, S, Sh, Me), Samson (D, M, F) Swedes Marion (U, M, R, Sh, F), Invitation (D, S, Sh, B, F) Cabbage Brigadeer (T, sh) Sprouts Bosworth(T, Sh), Cascade (Sh, B) Spinach Amazon (S, T, M), Reddy (D, S, Sh) First early peas Kelvedon wonder (most suppliers), Twinkle (T, Sh, F), Avola ( T, Sh) Mildew does not normally arrive till later in the summer so if first early peas are sown early they can be harvested before it arrives.

Second early peas Greenshaft (most suppliers), Jaguar (Sh, B, F) Maincrop peas Ambassador (most suppliers) Peas (other types) Shiraz (T, M, R, B, F, Me), Oregon sugar pod (most suppliers)

KEY TO SUPPLIERS D=Dobies, S=Suttons, U=Unwins, M= Marshalls, R=Robinsons, Sh = Shelleys, Me= Medwyns, B= D.T.Browns, F= Mr Fothergills Cucumber Mildew

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Weeds

by Derek Brooks FNVS What is a weed? One definition that I have seen says “any plant that grows wild or profusely, especially one that grows among cultivated plants depriving them of space and food”. If I am allowed to criticise this definition, it is to do with the word “wild”.

I am very interested in wild flowers (I lead wild flower walks), and many are beautiful and I certainly do not regard them all as weeds.

Another book says “Any plant which is growing in the wrong place and could overcrowd its more desirable neighbours”. A plant growing in the wrong place could be a dahlia in the rose bed. No, the type of weeds I am writing about are those which most people regard as weeds- those which turn up unexpectedly in our flower beds and on our allotments and keep turning up again and again and are nothing but a nuisance.

The next question is “Why is a weed a weed? “One reason is that they can survive in adverse conditions.

During a drought, many plants would dry up, and many would rot if the soil was waterlogged.

Yet many weeds would survive these conditions as they have evolved and adapted to in poor conditions. Some weeds, such as docks and dandelions have long tap roots that are difficult to remove. If you try to dig them out and leave some of the root behind they will re-grow. Some weeds spread by creeping rootstocks. Again, if you leave a small piece of root in the ground when digging it out, it will re-grow. Examples of this type of weed are couch grass, bindweed, Japanese knotweed and ground elder.

Another reason for a weed being a weed is to do with its method of seed dispersal.

Some, such as dandelions, groundsel and thistles have seeds that are light and parachute-like and blow great distances in the wind from other peoples plots onto mine (only joking). Others like bitter cress and Himalayan balsam have seed pods that burst open when ripe and the seeds shoot out over a wide area.

Some weeds in fact many such as fat hen produce an enormous number of seeds.

There are two types of weeds, annuals and perennials. The perennial weeds have a permanent root system that sends up fresh shoots year after year. The top growth dies off in the winter but when the temperature rises in the spring, fresh growth appears.

Annuals, on the other hand, germinate, grow, flower, set seed and die in the same season.

Seed dispersal is their only method of survival. In view of this it is important not to let the weeds seed. If annuals are not allowed to seed they will die out. It is important with perennials like dandelions that have seeds that blow about to remove the flowers before they seed. The weeds, of course, also need removing or they will keep flowering and

continue to produce even more seeds. They may be in a difficult place, e.g. between paving. In this case you will have to use weedkiller to kill them. Because weedkillers take a week or so to work, particularly in cooler weather flowers will continue being produced so keep removing them.

An overgrown allotment What is the best method of approach if you take over an allotment that is waist high in weeds? As far as I can see there are three possibilities.

1. Scythe, cut or strim down the weeds and cover the whole area with black polythene, carpets or other plastic mulching materials such as Mypex for twelve months.

2. Treat the whole area with glyphosate weedkiller.

3. Dig them out. (hard and time consuming work) Several years ago a lady took over such an allotment that was next to mine. I advised her to treat the weeds with glyphosate. It was during the summer and by autumn this would have got rid of most of the weeds. It would probably have needed doing again the following spring if any weeds grew back. By using this method, she would have been able to dig it and get at least some crops the same year.

She elected not to use weedkiller as she wished to be an organic gardener. I can understand organic gardeners not wishing to use weedkillers that poison the soil. However, modern weedkillers like glyphosate do not harm the soil as they are biodegradable. As soon as they have done their job the soil can be dug and planted. I wrote to Garden News for a second opinion and they agreed with me. I showed her the letter but it made no difference. She covered the whole area with polythene and left it. Twelve months or so later she gave up the allotment without ever growing anything. Covering with polythene means twelve months without any crops and is not a permanent answer. The ground would have looked clean when she removed the polythene but the weeds would have returned sooner or later. Weed seeds can lay dormant for a long time until conditions are favourable and then germinate. Also, as I have said before, seeds can blow from other plots. Refusing to use weedkiller would eventually mean she would have had to dig out the weeds by hand.

3.

4.

Modern weedkillers like glyphosate do not harm the soil as they are biodegradable

Other Methods of weed control 1. Covering the ground with black polythene or carpet for twelve months (we have already discussed this) 2. Stopping weeds from seeding (we have discussed this too)

5.

Hoeing - This is an excellent way to keep weeds under control. Keep your hoe sharp for the best results and easier hoeing. If plants are grown in rows, which they often are in the vegetable garden, keep the hoe going between the rows. Hoeing works better in dry weather as the weeds shrivel and die, also if the soil surface is dry few weeds will germinate. The idea is to work the hoe in such a way that it chops the weeds below soil level. If they are perennial weeds they will grow again but if the hoeing is done regularly they will eventually give up the ghost.

Digging - This method used to control weeds really depends on where they are and on their size. Hoeing is best done while the weeds are small. If the weeds are large, digging them out is probably the best option but it cannot, of course be used between other plants like hoeing can. It is better to use a fork rather than a spade as you can chop through the roots with a spade. If parts of the roots of perennial weeds are left in the ground they will re-grow, as previously stated. Weeds with long tap roots will not come out using a fork and are difficult with a spade without breaking the root so, in this case you may have to use weedkiller. Although regular forking them out will often weaken them and they will die out.

Weedkillers - These can be divided into several types a) Selective weedkillers—These kill broad leaved weeds but not grasses so they are just for use on lawns. b) Pathclear—Formulated just for use on paths. It contains a chemical that prevents further germination for a few months. It can’t be used where crops are to be planted as it will usually kill them. c) Weedol—This is excellent for killing small weeds and saves a lot of work.

It does not harm the soil and can be used between plants as long as you are careful not to get any on them. It just kills all green plants that it comes into contact with and the ground can be re-planted as soon as the weeds die.

It will not kill larger, perennial weeds, particularly those with a long tap root. It will just kill the foliage but the weeds will re-grow. d) Glyphosate—(Roundup, Tumbleweed )— either spray or water the weedkiller on to the weeds and it is absorbed into the plant. Weeds do not show signs of dying for about a week but it will kill larger weeds, including perennials.

It is systemic, which means that it is absorbed by the foliage and travels through the plant down to the roots so that the whole plant is killed. Like Weedol, it does no harm to the soil and is the best weedkiller for treating large

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weeds such as an overgrown allotment.

You need to choose a dry day when rain is not expected for 6 hours. Take care if using it around fruit or other perennial crops as it will also kill them.

All weedkillers work best when the weeds are growing actively in spring and summer so you are wasting your money doing it in winter. Don’t forget that weedkillers act through the leaves so don’t cut the weeds down first.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KEEP A SEPERATE WATERING CAN, OR SPRAYER, FOR WEEDKILLERS AND CLEARLY MARK IT “WEEDKILLER ONLY” e) Flame gunning—This is another method of weed control but I have no experience of using it myself. I would imagine that it would see off annual weeds and burn the tops off perennial ones but not kill the roots. However, if you keep removing the tops off perennial weeds by flame gunning or with weedkiller, they will eventually weaken and die. f) Hand weeding—This is the method I often use. If the plants are too close together there may not be enough room between them to use weedkiller. If that is the case, I get on my kneeling mat and remove them with a hand fork.

Difficult weeds All weeds are a nuisance but there are a few that are particularly difficult to get rid of so I am writing about these separately.

Horsetail—This is practically impossible to dig out because the roots go down a long way reputedly up to 3 metres. They are not flowering plants so they do not produce seeds and can only reproduce by vegetative methods. If only a small amount of root is left in when digging it will re-grow. As stated previously if the tops are continually removed from weeds they will gradually weaken so the answer seems to be to keep hoeing them off.

(If the foliage is damaged by either walking on it or rolling it with a roller this damages the epidermis and this allows Glyphosate into the plant. A couple of treatments using this method is reported to control Horsetail, also called Marestail in some parts of the country.

Ed) Bindweed Difficult to dig out because the roots are brittle and break easily. As I have said before, if a bit is left in the ground it will re-grow. Glyphosate is the best treatment but you have to do it in spring when growth starts and before it begins to bind itself round other plants. If it has twined round other plants you have to carefully untwine it and lay it on the ground before applying the weedkiller. If there is no spare ground to lay it on you have missed your chance. (if you can cover the crop underneath with thick polythene to lay the bindweed on and then spray it this prevents damage to your crop.

Let the weedkiller dry before removing the polythene. Ed) Japanese knotweed Thank goodness I have never had this on my allotment

because it is one of the most difficult weeds to remove. I have no experience of treating it. Glyphosate is supposed to control it but I would imagine that it would need several treatments to remove it entirely. I have read that it is best to treat it in the autumn when it is dying back.

Ground Elder Again, I think glyphosate is the best treatment but it may need more than one application. (This weed was reportedly brought into the country by the Romans and is edible. It can be added to salads; I would not rave about the flavour but I have tasted worse! There must be some satisfaction in eating your weeds! Ed) Docks and Dandelions As I have said before, these weeds have long tap roots.

Unless they are small it is better to use glyphosate than try to dig them out and risk breaking the tap root. Glyphosate is absorbed through the leaves and goes right through the plant down to the root. (if you only have a few weeds instead of buying and then mixing a sprayer full of weedkiller, small handguns can be brought to spot treat the odd weed.

Bittercress This weed was described earlier, when the seed pods are ripe, they explode and the seeds shoot out for a considerable distance. In this case I think the best control is to hand weed it before it flowers.

After giving all this advice, you probably think that I have a weed free allotment. I haven’t but am getting there slowly!

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More on Weeds Weeds are successful plants as they are quick growing, are invasive and can out compete many of our cultivated plants particularly the slower growing or smaller vegetables. They are very efficient at obtaining the water and nutrients they require and often grow above the crop so get the best light for photosynthesis and more growth!

As Derek indicates above weeds spread by a number of methods, this is one reason why they are such a successful plant; as well as evolving and adapting to the soils, growing conditions and climate. Below are a number of common weeds and how they spread and survive.

Seed Most weeds produce large quantities of seeds, which help their spread and survival. Plants that typically produce seed include: • Annual Meadow Grass – Poa annua • Groundsel – Senecio vulgaris • Daisy – Bellis perennis • Chickweed – Stellaria media • Dandelion – Taraxacum officinale • Dock – Rumex obtusifolius • Hairy Bittercress – Cardamine hirsuta • Annual stinging nettle – Urtica urens Shepherd’s purse – Capsella bursa• pastoris

Each weed plant can produce literally thousands of seed and some of these can stay viable in the soil for up to 20 years.

Hence the saying one year’s seeds seven years’ weeds. It is important to prevent weeds seeding if you hope to maintain a weed free garden or allotment.

Offsets Some weeds produce offsets that will root and grow if detached from the parent plant. This is a good reason to rake up and collect your weeds after hoeing if they are of a reasonable size and could regrow. Just part of the weed has to be in contact with damp soil for it to regrow.

• Daisy – Bellis perennis • Field Woodrush – Luzula campestris • Cat’s Ear – Hypochoeris radicata Fragmentation These are parts of a plant that break off and root then grow again they will re-root if in contact with the soil • Moss – various species • Speedwell – Veronica filiformis • Heath Bedstraw – Galium saxatile Stolon’s Stolon’s are stems that that have the ability to produce roots when in contact with the soil.

• Yarrow – Achillea millifolium • Creeping Bent – Agrostis stolonifera

•

Creeping Buttercup – Ranunculus repens

Rhizomes Roots that spread and are capable of producing buds and stems.

• Couch Grass – Elymus repens Ground Elder – Aegopodium • podograria • Field Bindweed – Convolvulus major • Hedge Bindweed – Calystegia sepium Creeping thistle – Cirsium arvense • • Perennial Stinging Nettle – Urtica dioica Annuals and ephemeral (ephemeral are plants that have more than one life cycle a year e.g. Chickweed) weeds tend to spread by seed as that is their only option but perennials can spread by seed and plant parts which is why they are so successful and are such a problem to the gardener. Persistence is what is required to successfully beat weeds, regular and ongoing hoeing and forking out or the use of chemicals. Mulching using either the woven plastic mulches or some type of organic matter such as compost, manure, spent hops, spent mushroom compost, bark or woodchip. Remember a weed is fighting for its life so is not going to give up easily! Ed

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46 simplyvegetables

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Letters to the Editor Dear Editor, Having just received a copy of the winter magazine we would like to make the following comments.

The article on Tomato varieties included Cedrico F1. This variety was withdrawn by Rik Zwann several years ago. There are no stocks available and to suggest that own saved seed is the same is very, very wrong.

On page 25 the Guide to Vegetable Show Varieties, there are also some errors I would like to point out.

The runner bean Liberty has Lovejoy after it in brackets. Liberty is a registered variety and does not have any other name.

Under Leeks the ones listed are unregistered and therefore cannot be legally sold as seed. The only registered pot leek is our Mammoth Pot. Under Onions the original exhibition onion namely the Mammoth Improved is not listed.

This variety was in existence long before any of the other varieties. Our great grandfather was winning shows with this onion in the early 1900’s. Showing large onions is not a new pastime.

Again Cedrico is listed as a tomato for exhibition. This has been replaced by Rik Zwann by Cappriccia F1. Which will, as all these Dutch varieties are, be replaced by a better variety in a few years’ time once the stocks of seed have gone. Commercial varieties are constantly changing to include a new resistance to diseases.

The unregistered varieties cannot be offered for sale as the sale of illegal seeds is strictly not allowed.

Dear Editor, In response to “Chairman’s Thoughts” on page 6 of Volume 23 part 1 – he asks for comments about the judging exam format.

My father, Ray Buller, joined the National Vegetable Society in 1966. He had been judging at many local shows around the Kingston area for many years and I presume took the NVS exam as soon as it was introduced.

My brother Alan followed soon after as he too was involved in judging in many spheres; especially Dahlias, Chrysanthemums, Gladioli, Fruit and even at Chelsea. (He sadly passed away in late February).

On my move back to Kent, Dad informed me that there were not enough judges in the county and so put my name down for the NVS exam as I had been around the

show benches from birth and stewarding from about age 10. After a couple of dummy runs with him, I presented myself to the RHS Halls in October 1981. There were about four of us who were sat in a “classroom” to tackle the written test.

The questions were factual knowledge of the RHS Handbook such as, “For which vegetables should ‘colour’ be given special attention?” Others concerned the awarding of NAS and which equipment should a good judge be expected to carry with him (such as scales for a heaviest pumpkin???).

Individually we were then taken through to another room where we were asked to point several classes of exhibits under the watchful eyes of Sid Corps and others. I remember being especially wary of potential NAS exhibits. Some days later I received a short letter telling me that my name would be added to the list of qualified NVS

Regards, Susan Robinson W Robinson & Son (Seeds and Plants) Ltd Ed. I have to apologise to members for my loose language in the tomato article in the winter edition of Simply Vegetables where I said regarding Cedrico that “I believe it is no longer available but some exhibition growers may have saved their own seed…”. As Sue Robinson correctly points out above Cedrico was withdrawn a few years ago. If members have some old original seed this would be Cedrico but if they have saved seed from the

plants they have grown this would be a strain of Cedrico. As Cedrico was an F1 hybrid the seedlings even if self-pollinated are likely to vary from the original variety so could not be called Cedrico and are unlikely to be as good.

Regardless of this the seed cannot be sold, although if members gave away or swapped seed I doubt if the authorities would make a big issue of it.

Sue’s comments about the Guide to Vegetable Show Varieties that unregistered varieties cannot be sold is again correct; but the article was not intended to recommend varieties for sale but just pointing out what had won on the show bench over the 2016 season. Exhibitors and members develop their own strains over the years that have improved on the earlier types often being bigger. These should not be sold but can be swapped / exchanged as seeds at the various seed swapping and DA events throughout the country.

judges and I have been helping out at our local village shows ever since, usually also covering flowers, fruit and sometimes floral art as well.

Malcolm Buller Ed. I also had a telephone call from Roy Binfield of the Midland Branch who passed the exam in 1979 and was reminiscing about some of the other candidates that took the exam that year. He could remember Bill Thornton, Neil Morris and he thinks George Arnold.

If any members have details about the early days of the judge’s exam or even the early days of the NVS please let Grant Cathro know as he is writing about the history of the society and hopes to have an article or two in future editions of Simply Vegetables.

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Scottish Branch Dates for the Diary 2017 April 6th Dundee & East DA – Talk – Cacti by Jim Gibb (Craigie Road Allotment Society Hall, Dundee @ 7.30pm) May 4th Dundee & East DA – Talk – Fuchsias by Frank Chambers (Craigie Road Allotment Society Hall, Dundee @ 7.30pm) May 20th Scottish Branch Committee meeting (Auchterarder) June1st to 4th Gardening Scotland, Ingleston Showground July 9th Annual Garden Visit - Fife August 27th Scottish Branch Championships, Tait Hall Kelso September 1st to 3rd Dundee Flower & Food Festival, Camperdown Park October 5th Dundee & East DA – Talk – by Jim Williams, topic T.B.A. (Craigie Road Allotment Society Hall, Dundee @ 7.30pm) October 7th Judges Exam place holder & Scottish Branch Committee meeting (Auchterarder) November 2nd Dundee & East DA – Talk – by Ian Simpson, topic T.B.A. (Craigie Road Allotment Society Hall, Dundee @ 7.30pm) November 18th Annual Scottish Branch Seminar, Pentlands Science Park December 7th Dundee & East DA – Talk – Honey & Bees Part 2 by Bill Duff(Craigie Road Allotment Society Hall, Dundee @ 7.30pm)

Chairman’s Thoughts Hopefully as you read this we have sprung into Spring and we can all get on with our love of growing vegetables. I intend to keep this report brief (great say most of you!) as the Scottish Branch news in SV seems to be growing each edition (don`t want to take up valuable space Kelvin!).

Our Secretary and Editor Fiona has done a tremendous job in picking up the reins from Jim, so my personal thanks go to her for this.

In addition, Fiona now has the Branch admin in great shape, which makes my job a lot easier. With Linda looking after the finances, Fred the membership, Neil and Frank the Championships and Gareth the sponsorship, the Branch is in as healthy a state as it ever has been. All are doing fantastic jobs, putting in a tremendous effort for the Branch.

One thing that I am delighted with is the number of commercial partners we now have in the Scottish Branch. My own very strong view is that we need to nurture and

look after them as best we can to give a benefit to both parties. It doesn`t always have to be financial in the “what can we get” thinking, we treat them as partners who can provide knowledge and information to our members, and yes in some cases financial sponsorship to us. These partners are in my view part of our future, so we should be looking at methods of making them even more welcome- perhaps a commercial membership category as a starter??

So enough preaching! I am off to do what we all love enjoying our growing!

I must endorse Ian’s comment above about Fiona picking up the reins from Jim. Jim was an excellent sub-editor the Scottish Branch News was always on time and very well set out and easy to put into the Magazine. Fiona is as good and has excellent organisational skills which bodes well for the Scottish Branch and as she is also National Secretary for the NVS as a whole. Ed

Scottish Branch – 200 Club The 200 Club this year already has over 200 members which is great news for support of the Scottish Branch Championships and other activities with all participants having a chance to win in our prize draws for 10 months of the year (Jan to Oct).

Well done to Gareth and the Committee members for your “encouragement” in inviting people to become a member.

If you would like to become a Scottish Branch 200 club member or renew your 200 club membership for 2017, you can do so by contacting Gareth. (Gareth’s contact details for your information mail: 2

Dyke Nook, Yeathouse Road, Frizington, Cumbria CA26 3QL, Telephone: 01946 811797 or email: garethattheplot@ hotmail.co.uk The first 2017 prize winners are listed below…Congratulations !!

With the increase in members, this means an increase in prize money too !

Thank you to everyone who became a member of our 200 club, we appreciate your support.

January 1st Graham Watson 2nd Gareth Cameron

Dundee & East of Scotland D.A. The AGM was held in February and went very well and we welcomed two members who have just joined the NVS. The office bearers are as follows: Chairman: Les Craib FNVS, Vice Chairman: David Nelson FNVS, Secretary/Treasurer: J Grant Cathro FNVS, Committee: Mrs A Morrison FNVS, W Baird, Ian Craib, Bill Duff, W Louden.

The D.A. Treasurer, Grant Cathro reported that the DA is financially sound although we suffered a small loss due to purchasing and erecting a storage shed.

The committee met after the AGM and the following syllabus was arranged for the 20172018 session.

Thursday, 5th October 2017, Mr Jim Williams, subject to be confirmed Thursday, 2nd November 2017, Mr Ian

Simpson, subject to be confirmed Thursday, 7th December 2017, Mr Bill Duff, Honey and Bees (part 2) Thursday, 1st February 2018, Annual General Meeting Thursday,1st March 2018, Mrs Norma Laird Spring Flowers Thursday 5th April 2018, Mr Frank Taylor Shallots Thursday 3rd May 2018, Garden Visit Ashbrook Nursery, Arbroath All meetings are held in Old Craigie Road Allotment Society Hall, Old Craigie Road, Dundee at 7.30pm. Please come along and enjoy a cup of tea or coffee, you are all welcome.

Les Craib FNVS Dundee & East DA Chairman

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Tips for growing Chillies by Dean Finley

Staking & spacing

The Longest Chilli!

After Dean Finley`s talk at the Scottish Seminar a fair bit of interest was created in how you grow chillies. After some discussion between Dean, Gareth Cameron, Autopot and Canna, a proposal to have a longest chilli competition was brought up.

The Scottish Branch have embraced this and a competition will be held at the Branch Championships on the 27th August at Kelso.

We have also involved Kelso Horticultural Society in the competition, so a big thank you to Robin Hogg and his committee for agreeing to take part.

So how does it work? The chillies will be sown and grown in Premier Hydroponics growroom in Broxburn.We will then ensure that anyone who wants to take part will receive a plant.

In addition, a batch of plants will be taken to Kelso for distribution to anyone from there who wants to take part. If you do want to take part email info@nvsscotland.co.uk or speak to Ian Stocks or Gareth Cameron to register for a plant.

There will also be details in both the Branch schedule and Kelso schedule, but remember the Branch schedule will be in the July edition of SV which is too late for obtaining plants.

The competition will be for the longest chilli by measurement, with Autopot providing a 4 pot system as the 1st prize and Canna providing nutrients. There will also be 2nd and 3rd prizes.

The secret to getting chilli seeds to germinate is consistency. You need to find a warm place with a steady temperature like airing cupboard or ideally a propagator.

Sow your seeds in a tray or pot and cover with about 1/2in of compost and water lightly. If you are going to place them in the airing cupboard cover the top with cling film or something similar to keep them moist and to stop them drying out after 5_10days they should start to poke through and its time to move them to a bright warm place.

When they have formed their first true leaves it’s time to think about potting them on to something bigger at this stage a7cm pot will keep them going for a couple of months be careful not to disturb the roots to much by lifting them carefully and keep them in a shaded place for a couple of days after potting on so they can settle in with a good watering, after a month or two they should be looking like a proper chilli plant and can be moved to a final pot.

COMPOST Chillies are heavy feeding plants so will need a high feed compost so a good multi-purpose will be ok WATERING Better if it’s small and often rather than once a week.

FEEDING Think of a chilli the same as a tomato they like a good feed especially when they are fruiting.

TIME Seeds should show in around 5_10days and flower in around 90days.

Potting on

Final pots

SIZE A big plant does not mean big chilli’s it just means more of them so a windowsill plant can grow the same size fruits.

Harvest time

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Part 4 Alternative Growing A community study of Hydroponic Methods for Growing Vegetables We first met Janet and her team last year when she contacted me regarding the articles in Simply Vegetables about hydroponic and alternative growing. This was probably one of the most opportune calls I have had as the Scottish Branch had been working closely for a year or so with Gavin Thomson and his firm Premier Hydroponics. A meeting was arranged with Janet and some of her staff followed by a visit to Premier`s grow rooms in Broxburn.

Janet more than ably describes the story below so we look forward to another partnership working with Janet and Belville (Ian Stocks) Belville Community Garden is a newly established urban community garden located on the Clyde Coast overlooking Greenock (Figure 1) and managed by Janet Colston who has over 30 years’ experience in science and horticulture. Over the past three years the garden has developed a position as a central hub, educating, organising and coordinating community groups and schools in growing and food related projects andhas been recognised as innovators in regenerating deprived urban environments.

(Place Standards Tool; Belville Community Garden, Blake Stevenson, Carnegie Trust UK).

Connecting similar organisations in the areahas led to partnership working, sharing ideas and resources for projects which otherwise would not be sustained.

In 2016, Belville Community Garden were awarded the Climate Challenge Fund to work in partnership with Parklea Branching Out and REACH for Autism ‘Connecting Food Growing Across Inverclyde’. Our project aimed to help vulnerable people with associated special needs from deprived communities, changing their behaviours

towards food production, preservation, reducing food waste and achieving practicalskills to become sustainable in the latter processes.

Our plan involved investment in strategies for growingfood locally and cutting carbon emissions and funding helped to developnew hydroponic growingsystems. These are being tested and‘scaled up’ in our greenhouse facilities, which increases capacity ensuring local demand is met over the winter periods.

At the outset of this journey we had a mixed skills base with traditional horticulture being the norm and only limited knowledge of specialised growing techniques.

We started a journey of discovery from Aquaponics to Hydroponics to Controlled Agricultural Growing that would change our traditional gardenersthinking and convince the community that producing sustainable hydroponically grownvegetables could be achievable. The first stop of this journey was a meeting with Glasgow Aquaponics which was trialing an interesting experimental technique at it’s industrial unit in Kinning Park, Glasgow. Murray Hamilton was knowledgeable and informative about the technique which he had developed growing lettuce in a flood and drain system. His plant feed came from goldfish stockedin a reservoir below the growing beds. As the fish excrete ammonia, bacteria in the reservoir complete the cycle converting nitrite tomore useable nitrate which is pumped up to the plants (Figure 2). Although the system produced good results with variable spectral LED lights and healthy looking plants, we considered the control of nutrients to be a potential pitfall with variation in levels requiring time consuming monitoring. Scaling up this technique could also be hindered by the cost to supply and

At the outset of this journey we had a mixed skills base with traditional horticulture being the norm and only limited knowledge of specialised growing techniques

Figure 2 Glasgow Aquaponics

maintain adequate fish stocks. Second stop was ‘Achiltibuie’s Hydroponicum’, an off-grid combination of Keder polytunnels located on the outskirts of the picturesque township of Ullapool in the Scottish Highlands. They have been an operational hydroponic growing business since 2008 and not only grow vegetables and fruits for local businesses but also supply customers with hydroponics equipment and nutrients (Figure3). Janet spent time with Alison Graham from the Hydroponicum in June 2016 and collated their hydroponic ideas for adaption in the large traditional greenhouses at Parklea.

Their very easy and informative website on hydroponic systems explains everything to the beginner (www.thehydroponicum.com).

Better still, get yourself a visit to this beautiful part of the country.

In August 2016 we started building a Deep Water Culture (DWC)raft system in the greenhouses at Parklea (Figure 4). Polystyrene sheets floaton top of the reservoir which is fed by circulating nutrient oxygenated with airstones from a tank below. Holes were cut in sheets of polystyrene to fit small 2” hydroponic pots containing coir grown seedlings. Increased rates of germination in coir were 2-fold and substantial root growth formed in a 2 week period with fully grown lettuce plants in 4 weeks (Figure 4). It was this point where we realised the limitations of our knowledge and contacted Ian Stocks after reading his article in NVS on Alternative Growing Methods. A group visit to Premier Hydroponics in Broxburn helped shape our progress in Controlled Agricultural Growing as we observed the range and potential of the systems on show.Gavin Thomson

Figure 1 Belville Community Garden

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Figure 3 Actiltibuie Hydroponics

Figure 4 Deep water Culture

Figure 5 Insulated Hartley greenhouse at Parklea

gave his knowledge and skills freely to our group and we were impressed with the advanced growing potential within the industrial grow room at Premier. We returned to Greenockrejuvenated with the desire to control the growing conditions within the greenhouses.

Controlling the temperature in old large 200sq ft. greenhouses was challenging and we were aware that extreme cold could inhibit plant growth while in the summer extreme heat could cause wilting and bolting of plants.

External conditions in the greenhouses were controlled by sealing gaps and insulating the glass with sheets of bubble wrap (Figure 5).

We introduced thermostatically controlled blowing heaters to keep the air circulating and maintain a winter air temperature of 16-20oC. Maintaining our DWC nutrient reservoir between 18-22oC allowed continuous growth of tatsoi, spinach, rocket, and oak leaf lettuce (Figure 6).

We began experimenting with the aeroponic propagator from Premier and in a few weeks in we were amazed by the high success rate of tomato and rosemary cuttings root in the mist induced Ionic Grow nutrients (Figure 7).

The increased oxygenation using an airstone and misting system helps adventitial root production and creates a much more stable and healthier plant. There was nearly a 100% success rate with Rosemary cuttings, weeks earlier when compared with traditional soil based propagation methods. We experimented with cocoa substrates, coir, rockwool, vermiculite and perlite formediums to support seed germination. The most successful of these was rockwool, reducing root damage following potting on into clay pebble substrate.

Ionic grow was recommended as a good nutrient solution for early stages of growth, high in nitrogen and potassium for leaf growth and root production. Electrical conductivity was maintained at an EC 1.4-1.6 and plants grown with a normal 8/16hour daylight cycle. The growth nutrient is switched for Ionic bloom in the flowering stage and is higher in phosphorus content for

increased cell division and seed production.

We concentrated on growing varieties of fast growing lettuce and to start our processes.

Nutrient levels vary for other vegetables and fruit bushes and so introducing separate systems with nutrients pumped from dedicated reservoirs allows for different types of growing conditions and EC/pH levels.

Introducing an air-stone to the pump line also improved efficiency and growth. Lettuce was grown in pH 5.5-6.2 and nutrient top up added weekly as required following routine testing.A lot more research requires to be done but we hope to publish a database of hydroponic growing conditions to aid new community entrants wanting to grow vegetables and fruits hydroponically.

Information on hydroponics is vast and the novice can easily become overwhelmed with the variety of techniques. We found there are typically only 4-5 techniques that are used, including those that flood and drain, deep water culture, gravity fed, ebb and flow or aeroponic misting. Generally, the mechanics distinguish the techniques and each has a useful purpose for distinct types of fruits and vegetables. The growing conditions are very similar with each of these systems.

Talking to the wider growing community including schools, allotment holders and other community growers helps dispel the mystery of hydroponics and some of its darker history as a viable farming technique. Our findings conclude the main reasons for not growing vegetables with hydroponics include relatively high initial start-up costs, a lack of knowledge of the technical requirements and concerns over maintenance of systems. In reality, the technique can be mastered by training and education followed by access to sound start up advice and equipment. A simple Nutrient

Film Technique (NFT) system can be set up in a greenhouse, polytunnel or garage and requires a base tray, reservoir, pump, airstone, thermostat, growing medium i.e. clay pebbles, T5 or LED lighting, nutrients, pH meter, EC meter and lastly the plants you want to grow (Figure 8).

Our growing legacy is to educate the wider community on the benefits of Controlled Agriculture Growing reducing carbon emissions and highlighting the importance for future generations to source local food. We believe we are at the forefront of community based hydroponicsproducing local and sustainable quality foodand have a unique position to influence the next generation of technological growers.

What is the future for hydroponics in the community? Ourplans include derelict office spaces being reutilised creating micro-climate controlled conditions with artificial lightallowing us to grow more delicate vegetables including peppers, tomatoes and cucumbers providing all year round produce for urban farm shops.

Driven by community demand for locally grown food will allow people to be selfsustaining, while directly benefiting the local community through an emission light process.

Locally a new food network has been established through joint partnership working with Inverclyde Health and Social Care Partnership (NHS Scotland) in direct collaboration with Belville garden’s CCF project which complements our healthy eating cookery classes. We plan to use the food grown hydroponicallytocreate a sustainable model for community groups and schools to replicate.Ultimately the goal is to create multiple urban vertical farms with renewable technology making local food that is clean and sustainable.

Dr Janet Colston PhD

Figure 6 Mixed Lettuce varieties

Figure 7 Rosemary cuttings in Aeroponic Propagator

Figure 8 Parklea NFT set up

Our growing legacy is to educate the wider community on the benefits of Controlled Agriculture Growing

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Scottish Branch Seminar November 2016 Fiona Shenfield It seems a long time since the annual Seminar was held at the Pentlands Science Park. The science park provides us with a great auditorium for presentations and talks, excellent floor space allowing stations for order pickups from Arthur Provan, membership renewal with Fred Stewart, joining the 200 club with Gareth Cameron and to host many companies creating a hive of activity, wheeling & dealing, learning and sharing.

The canteen area also gives us a separate eating area to relax and have yet more discussions and planning of those red tickets for 2017.

Many thanks to Jim Williams for helping us obtain the use of this venue.

With old friends and new attending, including several from South of the border, it was great to see so many like-minded individuals enjoying their day out.

Whilst the audience of over 100 people settled down for the day in the auditorium with their goody bags, they were treated to power point “slides” on Gardening Scotland and how the display was constructed, followed by photos from the annual garden visit to Kailzie, Jim Mercer & Jim Williams Gardens.

The 2016 programme of events kicked off with a warm welcome from our Chairman, Ian Stocks which firstly included two very well deserved Fellowship award presentations.

Anna Morrison and David Nelson were duly presented with their Fellowship awards by our Scottish Branch President Jim Williams.

Anna Morrison is an extremely active and reliable member of the Dundee & East District Association (D.A.), which she joined back in 2008. As well as being the DA’s regular raffle convenor, Anna adds her artistic eye each year at Camperdown Parkin the creation of the DA’s. veg display (see page 49 of the previous SV mag). Anna is always on duty at the display, promoting the NVS, encouraging the public to grow veg and answering any questions they may have, along with her relentless fundraising. You will often see Anna on duty, stewarding at the Dundee shows.

The busy Seminar Foyer

Anna grows vegetables on her allotment plot to a good standard and has exhibited at some shows too.

David Nelson has been a member of the Dundee & East D.A. since 2010 and became a Scottish Branch Committee member in 2011. In 2013, David became the Dundee & East Vice Chairman and also passed his Judges exam. Since then, David has judged at many local shows, building up to judging at the Scottish Branch Championships in 2015. Like Anna, David helps out with the Dundee show and DA display as well as helping out as a Committee member at the annual Scottish Branch Seminar. As if David is not busy enough, he is also a Committee member and Secretary of the Forfar Horticultural Society, a position he has held for 4 years. David grows most of his vegetables on an allotment with the balance in his greenhouse at home. David has exhibited at most shows in the Angus area and has been very successful.

Congratulations go to Anna & David for their well welldeserved awards.

Now… on to the first talk of the day which was given

by Kevin Fortey on the topic of growing giant veg. Kevin introduced the audience to the world of giant vegetables. Kevin shared with the audience hints and tips for giant veg. along with showing them a variety of achievements and giant veg. shows. Kevin also presented images and some growing techniques on Sunflowers that his son Jamie had grown which were massive. Thanks go to Kevin, for sharing the giant veg world with us.

Midday and Fiona Shenfield gave presentations, providing the audience with results from the Scottish Branch Championships, the National Championship results & the regular slot “The Scot’s abroad”, sharing the successes of our Scottish Branch

With old friends and new attending, including several from South of the border, it was great to see so many like-minded individuals enjoying their day out

Members. These presentations provide details of results, photographs of entries and information on veg varieties in the tickets.

Now… as these presentations are the only things that stand between the audience and their lunch, I think I’m getting the balance of speed and information?

Lunch and an hour out to eat, meet people, chat, pick up orders and visit stands.

Our trade stand area was buzzing with the following Companies & products we learned about. Here’s a quick A to Z on the great support and interest there was in the foyer.

Airpots Airpots have been a great supporter of the Scottish branch and with top growers such as David Metcalfe of the Northern Branch having great success using them. The air pots (with the holes in the sides) are made of recycled plastic and help the roots air prune and encourage development of healthy fibrous roots which means your plants can take up more nutrients and water Auto pots First time at the seminar and were showing the new large propagator they have developed and it caused quite a bit of interest with the growers. The 1Pot XL module is extremely versatile and can be used in the greenhouse, polytunnel, garden or home to water and feed your plants whether using hydroponics or not, it offers an easy and efficient watering system for tomatoes, cucumbers, chillies and all manner of crops.

Breakthruspray This foliar feed acts as a deterrent against slug’s but has no adverse effects on earth worm’s or other beneficial organisms. This means it’s good for your Hostas, Delphiniums and Marigolds, as well as being a good fertiliser for your veg too…..and the slugs hate it 1 Chilli Lab Dean Finley, one of the days presenters, Dean is “Mr Chilli” with a passion for growing and promoting them. Dene is also working

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Anna Morrison - fellowship, presented by Jim Williams

with the NVS to promote a new “longest Chilli” Competition this year.

D&M Promotions Unfortunately our great friends of the Branch, Dougie and Mary Lyons were unable to attend this year as Dougie was undergoing an operation. Dougie’s company is the retailer of the Flit sprayer (for fine mist spraying without loss of pressure) amongst other items.

Easynets Easynets managed to fit in a great display to show growers the various products to aid affordable plant growing, support and protection, including cloches, various types of netting & fruit cages.

Ecothrive Gareth Hopcroft has been a great supporter of the Seminar and lots of growers are using Charge. Charge is a soil enhancer that prolongs the fertility of your potting mix by adding a balance of long-lasting nutrients composed entirely from the droppings of beetles.

Plant magic Plant Magic displayed a large range of nutrients for all types of growing medium and are the suppliers of volcanic rock dust, with Jennifer Brodie supporting the Branch over a number of years. Plant magic aims to provide products that will increase soil fertility, nutrition and microbial activity, bringing together many elements from nature; from beneficial fungi and bacteria to natural stimulants

Premier Hydroponics We have been working closely with Gavin Thompson and his staff over the last twelve months to trial various different growing methods and to share both parties knowledge for the benefit of the Branch and the promotion of hydroponics and alternative methods. of growing. A big vote of thanks also goes to Gavin who pulled a lot of the commercial side together in conjunction with Gareth Cameron, along with producing the floor plan. Premier are also learning about veg growing whilst helping promote the NVS in their Broxburn shop.

Shield your yield The Shield products give us a different way of controlling aphids and fungal problems by using the power of essential oils. From plant washes, to a diffuser using essential oils, to their new product Bac-off. Shield BacOff also uses essential oils to kill fungus and bacteria in your growing area.

Lunch over and back to the auditorium, where Dean Finley of the Chili Lab gave a presentation on growing chillies. Dean is so passionate and informative about chillies and gave a great talk on the different types of chillies and growing commercially, whilst giving some hints and tips for smaller growers.

Mid-afternoon was the start of our “home grown” talks, firstly with an inspiring and humorous talk by Neil Muirhead on growing in a small garden. Since Neil started visiting his Uncle’s gardens (the infamous Bill & Bob Rodger), he got the bug for growing veg, starting with onions. Neil has become a top

Dean Finley - Chilli talk

David Nelson - fellowship, presented by Jim Wlliams

grower at National level in a short period of time and he shared with the audience, the trials and tribulations of his growing methods and ideas (both successful and not so successful). Thanks Neil for an inspiring talk which showed you can exhibit at top level without hundreds of each veg type growing your garden.

Tea break and last chance for chat and a visit to the Foyer before the final talk of the day, which was by Ian Simpson. Ian gave an informative and detailed talk on growing legumes and shared his growing methods for Peas, French Beans, Runner Beans and Broad Beans. Ian has had tickets at the National on 3 out of 4 of the legume types and continues to work on improving his runner beans with his best result being at the Northern Branch Championships where he was delighted to achieve a good 3rd (beaten by both Sherie Plumb and David Peel…both top exhibitors in Runner Beans amongst many others).

Almost done and a fantastic raffle draw with many top prizes from our friends and sponsors including a Christmas Hamper.

Thanks go to Bobby Jones, George Bartling & Alan Yates, the raffle ticket sales team Phew, what a great day…and I’d like to thank all our hardworking committee members who work non-stop in the background preparing for the day, preparing orders, making up hundreds of rolls, helping out at the stands, working relentlessly during tea breaks and lunch time, cleaning the canteen, membership and 200 club renewal, raffle ticket sales and countless other things I’ve forgotten to mention...Well done everyone...here’s to this years!

Kevin Fortey and Jamie - Giant veg talk

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Northern Branch News Northern Branch Championships 2017 to be held on Friday 15th September to the 17th September as part of the Harrogate Autumn Flower Show, Great Yorkshire Show Ground, Harrogate Schedules can be obtained from the Show Secretary: Mr John Croot FNVS 1 Linbery Close Oakerthorpe Nr. Alfreton Derbyshire DE55 7 NF Tel. 01773 834213 Email: j.croot@btinternet.com Also held at Harrogate Autumn Flower Show is the North of England Horticultural Society Show. Schedules for this section of the show can be obtained from: Mrs Jane Kitchen Regional Agricultural Centre Great Yorkshire Show Ground.

Harrogate HG2 8NZ TEl. 01423 546158 This is a first rate show for any person interested in Flowers, Vegetables and Fruit The Northern Branch are looking to run a Judges Examination again in 2017 if you would like to be an NVS Vegetable Judge please contact Mr John Croot on 01773 83413 or email me at j.croot@btinternet. com . John will explain fully what what is required to become a Judge. The examination will be held on the first Saturday in September at RHSs Paxton Halls Leeds.

Mansfield DA Report We haven’t really got a lot to report this month.

We had a fairly mild winter in the Mansfield district and with the increasing daylight hours the allotments and growing areas are developing well. We have a full and varied programme of meetings including talks from two of our local National Trust properties, Hardwick Hall and Clumber Park. We meet on the last Wednesday of each month at the Black Bull in Mansfield Woodhouse. Details are available on the NVS website or from Kevan/Gina DUNNICLIFF on 01623422169.

Kevan

Northern Branch Chairman’s Report The winter period has not been too harsh on us this year, fairly mild but very gloomy. Not many gales or floods like last winter.

My health has been a drag on my gardening again, but after a successful hernia op. I am back on song, -- hopefully!

I am on top of my rat problem and looking forward to a good year with exhibition onions.

Much work has been done by your executive committee regarding an upgrade to our website and is now closer to being obtained. It will cost the society a few pennies but thought worth it in the long run for the future. More info. may be seen in this SV. We are looking forward to more road shows this year where we can gain a few more new members. A new venue will be Chorley show in mid Lancs where we feel there are lots of good veg. growers. A display and info. material will advertise the NVS and hopefully will swell the Lancs.

DA membership. As you know I ride this hobbyhorse which was thought up by our newsletter editor and Lancs. DA treasurer Michael Osborn. It gives us a presence in new areas and gains us new members

where ever we go.

So, come on all DAs, try to be more active and get round the allotment sites where many future members may be.

Advertise your speakers to them and take our literature with a mini- road show, it,s not hard and you will enjoy it. Some DAs. are already doing this already, and doing well. I know that some of our DAs. have gone quiet in recent years, thought mainly due to age or ill health. Not many members will put themselves forward for an official’s position on a DA committee so, they should be asked and just maybe they might say yes. If we sit in the job too long we run out of ideas and enthusiasm.

Enough of my rantings and I do not wish to upset anyone but I feel that it’s my duty as chairman to keep our Northern branch active and growing.

Please keep your articles coming in with pictures. We have been a little short on material for our slot in the SV for this edition. We are better having too many rather than too few.

Good growing for 2017 David Metcalfe Chairman Northern Branch

Editor’s Report Springtime once again, I get quite excited when I see the first shoots poking through the ground.

We are now in the second weekend of February and at these northern latitudes the snowdrops and the odd crocus are just poking their little nodding heads through the earth, there is just so much interest going on around the plot as well as the growing!

As you must all be aware by now I just love to observe the wildlife around the plot and what a great winter we have had with birds.

The migratory birds waxwings and Bramlings which travel all the way from Scandinavia each winter to escape the harsh conditions over there and lack of food have given us some wonderful shows.

We have however had a great winter for starlings, Blackbirds and Bullfinches and what a lot of people do not realise, because we are used to seeing these birds all year round, is that many of these birds have made that long hazardous trip across the North Sea for exactly the same reasons as the waxwings and Bramlings, food! We have also had Buzzards and a single Red Kite over the plot this winter scavenging for any carrion that they can spot, this really does get me excited, I know I am a “sad soul” but isn’t this what it is all about being out in the countryside on your plot.

As you read this article, chuckling no doubt, I will be looking out for that elusive bird which comes in from Africa every year

fortunately in increasing numbers to nest and rear their chicks around our lakes and lochs of Scotland. I refer of course to the Osprey.

The Ospreys is a fish eating bird and tend to follow water courses up the country to their chosen nesting site so that they can fish as they travel. Locally we have a fairly large reservoir and we are not far from the River Ribble so we occasionally get the odd bird on this stretch of water. Last year I was on my plot and heard some gulls making such a racket I eventually looked up to see what was going on, I could not believe it! There was an Osprey being mobbed by gulls right over my plot, what a treat.

Again as you read this article I will be listening out for the sound which really tells me spring is here and it is the trill of the Willow Warbler, it is one of the most beautiful songs I have ever heard.

I have reported in the past about our wild life area on the allotment with its pond and this provides me with endless pleasure watching out for the first frogs venturing out from hibernation and possibly the stoat which seems to like hunting around that area. There is just so much to look out for at this time of the year. So please keep your eyes open when you are in your garden or allotment particularly at this time of year there I just so much to s and hear. Enjoy your Spring!!

Michael Osborn Northern Editor

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Nottingham District Association Notts DA AGM was held on Thursday 2nd February. John Harrison FNVS and John Uren FNVS where voted in as Secretary and Treasurer respectively.

We meet on the first Thursday of each month at The Basford Conference Centre (formally Basford Miners Welfare), Goldcrest Road, Nottingham, NG6 8PT. Lectures/Talks starting at 20:00hrs.

250gms onion class Winning 250gm Onions

Show bench

Westmorland & North Lancashire D.A. By the time you read this our season of talks will be almost at an end.

We have enjoyed excellent speakers on a wide range of topics and are currently in the process of putting together a programme for our next season which starts in October.

A big thank you to all our speakers and our members for their support. However, we still have our Coffee Morning and Plant Sale to look forward to and our visits to Growing Well and David Metcalfe’s garden.

Our Coffee Morning/Plant Sale will be held

at the Memorial Hall, Burton in Kendal LA6 1NA on Saturday 6th May at 10a.m. For details of our activities including our two visits please ‘phone Jim on 015395 61053 jamo. glenholme@gmail.com I thought I would just include a few pictures of another of our local shows Overton & Dist. John Speak our Chairman is also Chair of this show so it is quite relevant and the 250gm onion class was won by one of Westmoreland’s committee members.

Jim Robinson

PROGRAMME FOR 2017 6th April Mark Roberts - Show Vegetables 19th April Quiz Night at N.E. Derbyshire DA 1st May May Day Car Boot at Bartonin-Fabis 4th May Harry - Life as a Bevin Boy 1st June Plant Sale 6th July Glenis Swift - Straining Honey 3rd August Mike Davey, subject to be confirmed 7th September Mini Show – Basford Conference Centre 5th October Graham Wagstaffe, subject to be confirmed 2nd November Apple Fair 7th December Christmas Quiz Further details will be advertised when available.

Nottingham DA’s Annual Show will be held on 19th August at The Village Hall, Barton-in-Fabis. Further details available from John Harrison (0115 9830656)

West Yorkshire D.A. List of dates, speakers and topics for 2017. All meetings to be held at: Leeds Paxton Horticultural Halls, 186 Kirkstall Lane, Headingley, LEEDS, West Yorkshire LS5 2AB. Commencing at 8 pm, on the second Tuesday of each month, unless otherwise stated. There will also be again this year, a monthly competition. See John Smiles for details.

10th Jan A question and Answer type evening, Bring your gardening problems for discussion, and listen to our gardening panel of experts.

14th Feb Aaron Hickman, Lecturer/ Gardener, Askham Bryan College of Horticulture. Veg grown by the Victorians and not often grown now.

14th March Andrew Robinson, Hexham, Northumberland. Growing and Showing Dahlias my way.

11th April Keith Abel, Leconfield, East

Yorkshire Chairman, East Yorks DA of NVS. Life after the shows.

9th May Simon Bland, Dalesfoot Composts Talk on how Dalesfooot composts are made Plus distribution of free Coleus Plants.

13th June Sally Smith, Birchover Matlock, Derbyshire. Professional Gardener. Veg. inspirations, creative produce and productive ways to grow organic vegetables.

11th July David Thornton FNVS, Ockbrook, Derbyshire Previous Secretary NVS, Owner of Select Seeds. Top Tips for tasty tomatoes, and other veg growing gems.

8th August Gordon Kirby, Halton, Leeds. Retired Head Gardener, Temple Newsham, Leeds. A few of my favourite things, plus Coleus competition, plants given out at May meeting.

12th September David Allison, FNVS

Chairman, West Yorkshire DA. Autumn Harvests of Fruit and veg.

15th to 17th September NVS Northern Branch Championships as part of Harrogate Autumn Show, Schedules from John Croot, Northern Branch Secretary.

23rd September Annual West Yorkshire District Association Show, Paxton Hall.

10th October Graeme Watson, Danby, Nr Whitby, North Yorkshire. The History and growing of Heavyweight G Gooseberries, including the 200 year old Gooseberry Show at Egton Bridge. (Cuttings and Plants for sale.)

14th November David Peel, Mirfield, West Yorkshire. “Spuds and me”, My way of growing potatoes for Exhibition.

12th December AGM, Social evening, plus something different.

David Allison FNVS, Chairman, West Yorkshire DA.

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Manchester & Cheshire D.A. We are sure everyone will join us in passing on our congratulations to Whitefield Horticulture Society who are celebrating 100 years of Gardening and they have certainly been celebrating the occasion in style.

They produced a “golden” souvenir show catalogue then in January they hosted BBC Radio 4’s Question Time which aired at the beginning of February. The Society continues to thrive and hosts 2 shows in the Summer and November they are also arranging a trip to the Harrogate Spring Flower Show. Visit their website: http://www. whitefieldhortsoc.org.uk/ Manchester DA meetings take place on the 1st Tuesday of every month at Hough End Centre, Mauldeth Road West, Chorlton, Manchester, M21 7SX. All are welcome for further details please contact John Woods on 0161 998 2970. No entry fee just bring a little something for the raffle.

2017 speakers include: March -Jim Robinson – Shallots April – Mick Poultney - Composting May – Plant Sale (no speaker) June - Jim Thompson (prov) July – Graham Wagstaff (prov) For further details visit our website: http:// manchester-da.co.uk.

Cheshire DA meetings take place on the 3rd Monday of the month at 8pm at Grappenhall Ex-Servicemen’s Club, Chester Rd, Warrington, WA4 2QG. Contact the Secretary Kevin Knowles on 0161 902 0561 for further details or join us on the night, entry is free however a small donation to the raffle would be appreciated.

2017 speakers include: February - Mark Hall - Vegetables for the Kitchen Table March - Gareth Hopcroft- Alternative ways of Growing Vegetables Further talks to be advised.

In January they hosted BBC Radio 4’s Question Time

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North East Derbyshire DA (NEDDA) NEDDA held its AGM on Wednesday 18th January 2017. Did 2017 ring in the changes? Not a chance, the following were all re-elected unopposed: Chairman; John Goodall FNVS, Secretary; Geoff Butterworth FNVS, Treasurer; John Croot FNVS, Show Secretary; David Thornton FNVS, Committee members; Charles Cooper FNVS (Transport & Logistics Manager), Eric Hind, Eric Smith John Ramsell FNVS and Mick Shipley FNVS. Pictured is a very happy and proud John Ramsell the ex-chairman of NEDDA. John has for many years been instrumental in supporting and actively contributing to the success of NEDDA and the NVS. He joined the NVS in 1992 and served as Chairman of the North East Derbyshire DA from 20042012, but did you know he celebrated his 90th birthday on Christmas Eve. Hard to believe but he is 90 years old. He made merry on his birthday with family and close friends at a local restaurant. To John’s surprise his family purchased and donated a trophy to NEDDA. The trophy to be known as the John Ramsell Trophy. The trophy will be awarded to the winner of the NE Derbyshire Top Tray, this due to John being a prolific winner of the class.

What a fitting tribute it will be if John wins it again this year, so John you’d better get your

green fingers weaving some magic this year.

It’s a little bit belated but a Happy Birthday from all at NEDDA. The following are forthcoming speaker & events for 2017, to be held at Pleasley Miners Welfare, Chesterfield Road, NG19 7PD, 19:45hrs start: 19th April Quiz Night. NEDDA with Nottingham & Mansfield DA’s 17th May Behind the scene visit to Swarkstone Garden Centre and David Thornton’s garden. N.B. this will replace the monthly meeting 21th June Glenis Swift, ‘Bees and Honey’ 19th July DA visit to Joe Atherton’s garden.

N.B. this will replace the monthly meeting.

16th Aug Mick Poultney, ‘A Year on my Plot’ 18th Oct TBA 15th Nov David Thornton, ‘All about Seeds’ Further diary events will be published when available.

NEDDA will be putting on vegetable a display, promoting the NVS and offering cultural advice at the Bakewell Show 3rd-4th August.

NEDDA’s 39th Open Vegetable Show will be held on Sunday 10th September 2017 at the Village Centre, Glapwell, Derbyshire S44 5LW. For further details contact either the DA, Dave Thornton or Geoff Butterworth.

John Ramsell

Midlands Branch From the Chair My last outing of 2016 was to the West Mids DA talk given by Sherrie Plumb.

There was a great turn out which was great and made her long journey worthwhile.

Just before Christmas we acquired a very large commercial poly tunnel on the proviso we took it down and removed it from site. So one cold, damp Sunday morning the troop gathered - children, partners and parents and off they went with tractor and trailer, vans and all the tools you could think of. They even borrowed a Cherry Picker and a Jack Hammer, step ladders would just not cut it, being over 15’ high and the posts were concreted in. I just made and delivered the bacon butties and flasks of tea, which were well deserved.

During the Christmas break whilst everyone was off from work and weather permitted, they all gathered again to start erecting it back up in our field. By looking at the photographs they had taken before dismantling, they made a slow but sure start, measuring out and getting the levels right, to sorting the poles which they cleverly thought of coding with tape before they took them down.

It is coming along nicely now although the weather has not been kind at the times we have been available to get to it and, when we do, it is very soggy under foot.

I’m really going to have to buy a water boiler - the kettle is just not coping with the amount of tea and coffee they are drinking!

Sunday 5th February saw ‘Shropshire Potato Day’ held for the fifth year at Harper-Adams University. It’s proving to be a smash. Mark and I went and got our potatoes; more than 120 varieties of potato were available. There were also 20 varieties of peas, shallots, onions and beans on display. Visitors were able to buy a variety of local produce, including jams, meats, and jellies etc. A lot of NVS members go and get their potatoes from there, and we met up with some for a coffee in the café; the social side of the NVS at work again. (Photos attached).

Time to go now and pack my case, I’m off to Cyprus with my sister for a week.

Bye!!!!

Look forward to seeing you all in the coming months at a Show somewhere!!

NATIONAL CHAMPIONSHIPS 2017 Are being held in the Harvest Pavilion at the Malvern Autumn Show on the Three Counties Showground, WR13 6SP. Saturday & Sunday 23rd & 24th September 2017 Schedules are now available to download off www.nvsuk.org.uk or by contacting Pat Brown on 01782 566395 or patbrown59@uwclub.net The Midlands Branch would like as many members as possible to join them and celebrate on the Saturday evening at The Bank House Hotel Spa & Golf Bransford, Worcester WR6 5JD 8 miles from showground or 5 miles from Foley Arms, Malvern.

We are putting on a coach from Malvern to The Bank House. Anybody interested could they contact Sandra Hall 01952 541396 to confirm seats.

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Midlands Branch Events 2017 RHS Malvern Spring Festival 11th – 14th May 2017 Three Counties Showground, Malvern, Worcs. WR13 6NW 01684 584924 www.rhs.org.uk RHS BBC Gardeners World Live Event 15th – 18th June 2017 NEC Birmingham 08445811340 www.bbcgardenersworldlive.com Shropshire Horticultural Society Shrewsbury Flower Show Fri & Sat 11th & 12th August 2017 Quarry Lodge, Shrewsbury. SY1 1RN 01743 234050 www.shrewsburyflowershow.org.uk Malvern Autumn Show 23rd & 24th September 2017 Three Counties Showground, Malvern, Worcs. WR13 6NW 01684 584924 www.threecounties.co.uk/ malvernautumn Midlands Branch Committee meetings 2017 are on: Saturday 22th April Saturday 3th June All meetings start at 12 mid-day and are held at The Scout Hut, Broadwaters, Kidderminster. DY10 2RY All welcome. Your views, comments and ideas are very much appreciated.

Saturday 7st October – Meeting to take place after the Judges Exam venue to be confirmed.

For further information on any of the above please contact; Sandra Hall on; 01952 541396 or 07917690292 or noddy.crudgington@gmail.com Midlands Branch Championships 2017 To be held in the ‘Severn Marquee’ within the Shrewsbury Flower Show 1th & 12th August.

Quarry. SY1 1RN 01743 234050 www.shrewsburyflowershow.org.uk Any further information please contact Pat Brown on 01782 566395 or patbrown59@uwclub.net

Potato Day

Bucks DA round up 2016 ended on a high, with 74 members attending our last meeting of the year, to socialise & listen to Peter Glazebrook give an interesting and educational talk on the growing & showing of Giant Vegetables.

Our first activity of 2017 was at the annual Buckinghamshire Nurseries “Potato Day”, where members of the DA set up stall to promote the Society and be on hand to answer questions from members of the public.

Our next event will be our AGM held in the Holiday Inn, Aylesbury at 19:00 on Wednesday 22nd March. The AGM will be followed by a talk by Barry Newman, titled “Vegetable Growing – Techniques, Ideas and Advice”, Barry trained in Horticulture at Pershore College and serves on various RHS panels and committees. He is also a keen judge and exhibitor and like many NVS members grows his vegetables on an allotment so this promises to be a very interesting talk indeed. As with all the talks in our programme of events NVS members welcome to attend for free. A nominal entrance fee of £3.00 is charged to nonmembers.

Forthcoming events include: 19:30, Wednesday 19th April (Holiday Inn, Aylesbury) a talk by Roger Umpelby “An alternative look at weeds”. Roger, a professional entomologist and horticulturalist is a keen and passionate vegetable grower with a love of nature and the natural world. His pest and disease identification, prevention and control, is second to none.

He is a great photographer with a good eye that clearly expresses the point he is making. Roger will share with us his thoughts on those useful (?) and beautiful but often unloved plants, Weeds.

14:30, Wednesday 7th June. Private garden visit to Haseley Court, Nr Thame. The gardens were designed by Nancy Lancaster have, a large walled garden containing herbaceous plants and vegetables. The Courtyard contains an impressive display of climbing roses and from the terrace there are wonderful views across the topiary garden.

Cost £10 per ticket (including tea & biscuits) on a first come, first served basis.

18:00, Wednesday 21st June. Our annual evening visit to John & Jill Branham’s garden is one of complete relaxation whilst taking in the views over the Aylesbury Vale and looking at the superb vegetables and fruit.

You are free to wander around the garden and glass-houses as you please and then enjoy a glass of wine, a cup of coffee or tea, and perhaps a little cheese, during a chat with fellow vegetable growers.

You may also fancy testing your skills by identifying and judging a small number of vegetables.

19:30, Wednesday 18th October (Holiday Inn, Aylesbury) “ AN EVENING OF UNIQUE AND INFORMATIVE ENTERTAINMENT” - provided by John Branham and Jim Thompson. This talk will look at judging, discussing what pests, diseases and problems to be on the look for and provide aspiring judges an opportunity to test their judging skills, on several collections.

19:30, Wednesday 22nd November (Holiday Inn, Aylesbury) a talk by Graham Wagstaffe “Growing vegetables in a confined space”. Graham is a keen vegetable grower, lecturer, exhibitor and NVS judge with 25 years’ experience at branch and National level. Graham’s talk is aimed at helping people overcome the age-old problem of getting the very best out of a limited space.

For further information contact Patrick Lawrence at nvsbucksda@gmail.com

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Midlands Branch Sponsor Plaques 2017 awarded to:

Our display last year (Compost corner / Kids section / N.V.S. section). This year we have been given a larger area!

BBC Gardeners World Live 2017 BBC Gardeners World Live 2017 will be Held at the National Exhibition Centre in Birmingham. The Midlands N.V.S. stand will once again be in the floral marquee. Luckily for me Sandra Hall (N.V.S. Midland Branch Chair) is letting me organise and run this year’s event!

This is in memory of my mate Colin who passed away last year. The show runs from Thursday 15th June to Sunday 18th June, with setting up on the Wednesday.

Once again it will not be a display of

vegetables but an educational display! (the show judges now understand this).

Mick, do they speak the same language as you or have you made them an offer they cannot refuse! Ed. The Bucks D.A. will be coming again to help out on the Saturday, will be good to see them again. The other days will be manned by the West Midlands D.A. If you visit over the 4 days come and say Hi, it will be good to meet up.

Newent Onion Fayre Saturday 9th September 2017 Newent Town Centre, Newent, Glos GL18 1BZ www.newentonionfayre.org/ For further information contact; Chris Comer 01531 822905 Coors Gardening Club Branston Village Show Monday 28th August 2017 Branston Village Hall, Burton-on-Trent, Staffordshire. DE14 3HS For further information contact; Mr K, J, Bunting. 01283 548153 West Midlands District Association Annual Show Thursday 31st August 2017 Fairfield Village Hall, Stourbridge Road, Fairfield, Bromsgrove, Worcs. B61 9LH For further information contact; Mick Poultney FNVS. mickypoultney@hotmail. com Bucks District Association Bucks County Show.

Thursday 31st August 2017 Weedon Park, Nr Aylesbury, Bucks www.buckscountyshow.co.uk For further information contact; alison@ buckscountyshow.co.uk Tibberton & District Horticultural Society Annual Show Saturday 19th August 2017.

Taynton & Tibberton Village Hall, Tayton Lane, Taynton, Glos. GL19 3AN www.tibberton-gloucestershire.org.uk For further information, contact; rheigham@yahoo.com

I have done a deal with em! I shall be talking for an hour daily again for a free stand! That’ll do me...

SIMPLY VEGETABLES BINDER Store your magazines away.

Each binder holds 12 magazines. (3 years worth)

£5.00 To purchase contact: Sandra Hall FNVS, Midlands Branch, on 01952 541396

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Southern Branch Chairman’s Report

Southern Branch Championships 2017 The New Forest and Hampshire County Show is kindly hosting the Southern Branch Championships for another year along with additional classes in the open part of the show.

Both sections attract a high number of quality exhibits and this year, in addition to the usual classes, there is the first chance of the year to enter the Marshalls sponsored French bean, Satelit. A class which will feature at every Branch championship during 2017 and has a hefty purse of £75 for first prize at each show. Show schedules for both sections can be accessed from a link on the NVS website home page www.nvsuk.org. uk and The New Forest Show website site http://www.newforestshow.co.uk/ vegetables/ Paper copies of the schedule are also available by sending a stamp addressed envelope to: Ian Clemens, 20 Ifoldhurst, Ifold, Loxwood, Billingshurst, West Sussex, RH14 0TX. I look forward to receiving your entries and meeting you at this year’s event.

Jersey District Association Chairman: Graeme Le Marquand FNVS, 07797 727216 or glem@hotmail. co.uk; deputy chairman: Steve Vibert; secretary: Mrs Zoe Vibert Articles by Collette Bisson, Jersey DA, appear regularly in SV.

Dorset District Association If any member is interested in starting up the DA again, please contact Dennis Hewitson. hewitson883@btinternet.com

By the time this edition of SV arrives on your doorstep we should be out of the grips of winter and hopefully enjoying warmer weather. Looks like my wish for a cold winter to help kill off all the nasties, has been granted! Now enough is enough thank you. Whilst writing this in mid-February, here in the south, we are enjoying daytime highs of 2-3 degrees under heavy cloud. Not exactly ideal growing weather.

The recent bird flu restrictions have scuppered my plans to let our hens deal with the majority of the veg patches over the winter months. At least the persistent cold weather has restricted most undesirables from growing, so my feathered weed consumers have not been so much in demand as they have in previous years. They are not however at all happy with this confined existence and their egg yields have dropped. We are at the hands of DEFRA on this one and until the free range ban is lifted, the hens must remain housed and separated from wild birds to guard from potential infection.

The winter months also play host AGM season, and I have been on the road trying to attend as many of the Southern DAs meetings as possible. I think it is important as Southern Branch Chairman, to show ones face to your “constituents”

every so often and be available to answer any questions folks may have regarding other parts of our society beyond their DAs. The valuable and rewarding part of going on tour is that you get to put names to faces and meet properly with members who are the heart and soul of our society.

With our hard working membership in mind, I would like to remind folks that we need to start thinking about nominations for Named, Fellowship and Medal awards for 2017. If you have any nominations for consideration please forward them to me as soon as possible. The ultimate date to work to is the trustees meeting on June 24th where final decisions will be made, remembering that all nominations need to be discussed at Branch level before this date, so the earlier the better. A full list of awards and nomination forms are available off the “awards” tab on the “about” banner of the NVS website www. nvsuk.org.uk.

Here’s hoping the time between pen and publishing brings some warmer weather and gives us all a great start to the 2017 growing season. Only time will tell. Good luck with all your horticultural exploits in the coming months.

Ian Clemens, Chairman, Southern Branch

Surrey District Association Co-chairmen: Neil Hope FNVS and Patricia Barrett FNVS; Secretary: Sally Coleman FNVS; Treasurer: Louise Clubley; Assistant Treasurer Derek Learwood FNVS. On Thursday 9th March 2017 we were joined by award winning Vegetable Grower Sherie Plumb, for an interesting talk entitled ‘A Year in Our Garden’. This was held in the Main Hall of East Horsley Village Hall, Kingston Avenue, East Horsley, Leatherhead, Surrey, KT24 6QT. On Tuesday 4th April 2017 we are meeting at 8pm at Redhill Methodist Church and Centre, Gloucester Road, Redhill, RH1 1BP. Mark Saunders, the Head Gardener at Fittleworth House, will be joining us for an interesting and informative talk entitled ‘The Head Gardener’s Year’.

On Thursday 11th May 2017 we are meeting at 8pm in the Lovelace Room, at East Horsley Village Hall, Kingston Avenue, East Horsley, Leatherhead, Surrey, KT24 6QT. Professional Plant Pathologist, writer and broadcaster, Paul Patton will be joining us for a talk entitled ‘Growing for the Kitchen’.

We will be visiting Vitacress (previously VHB Herbs) at Vitacress, Runcton Nursery, Pagham Road, Runcton, Chichester, West

Sussex, PO20 1LJ on Tuesday 18th July 2017 at 2pm. You are very welcome indeed to join us for this lovely visit, places are limited, please contact Beth Otway beth@ otway.com 01483 420989 to book your place, there is no charge for this visit, please do book early.

On Thursday 14th September 2017 we are meeting at 8pm, in the Lovelace Room of East Horsley Village Hall, Kingston Avenue, East Horsley, Leatherhead, Surrey, KT24 6QT. We will be joined by Head Gardener Matthew Styles-West who will be giving us an informative talk entitled ’No Dig Vegetable Gardening’.

On Thursday 9th November 2017 we are meeting at 8pm in the Lovelace Room of East Horsley Village Hall, Kingston Avenue, East Horsley, Leatherhead, Surrey, KT24 6QT. We will be joined by Dr Jamie Claxton from Tozer Seeds for an informative talk about ‘Vegetable Breeding and new Vegetable Varieties’.

New members are always very welcome at our meetings, we have a raffle, and break for tea, coffee and home-made cake at our meetings. For more details or information about our programme of talks and events for 2017, please contact Beth Otway beth@ otway.com 01483 420989.

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Devon District Association

Kent District Association

Chairman: Don Cockman; Treasurer: Allan Terry FNVS; Secretary: Dave Wickstead.

The Devon DA held its AGM on the 24/1/17, the accounts were presented by Alan Terry and accepted, the officers were also re-elected.

The dates for the meetings for 2017 are 25/4/17, 18/7/17 and 24/10/17. It was also agreed that we would try to have more interaction amongst the group members by having open garden or allotment days/evenings. These dates and whose plots we would visit will be discussed more at the meeting of the 25/4/17.

It was also agreed that the trips to shows in 2017 would be the Southern Branch Championship (New Forest Show) in July and the NVS National Championships at the Malvern Autumn Show in September.

The NVS will have a presence at Plympton Gardeners Association Spring show on the 25/3/17 and the Annual Summer Show on the 19/8/17 at Harewood House, Plympton to try to attract new members. Any queries please contact Dave Wickstead on 01752 319435.

We are also trying to get a speaker down to Harewood House, Plympton, again to try to get more interest in the NVS, hopefully we will draw an audience from the Plymouth area as well as Plympton and Plymstock.

As secretary I have suggested that I contact all the members on the Devon District Association’s list to try to encourage more involvement in the group and maybe get suggestions from them as to what would make them more interested in engaging with the group. If you would like anymore information about the group please contact Dave Wickstead on 01752 3194354 or davewickstead@blueyonder.co.uk. Happy growing to you all for 2017.

Chairman: Roger Simmons; Secretary and Treasurer: Gordon Francis FNVS Our year starts very quietly, there are no meetings in January or February, this is the time when we would order the seed for the plant sale in May but unfortunately the Medway Plant Festival was canceled for this year.

Our first meeting was our AGM on the 8th March, as last year we had a speaker, David Thornton came and gave a talk on Select Seeds, this is the company that he and his wife have brought in the past year.

On the 12th April Laurence Hobbs is giving a talk ‘’All About Orchids’’ Laurence exhibits at many of the major shows around the country.

John Trim is the speaker on the 10th May with ‘’Aliums are enough to make you cry’’ ‘’Preparing for the show’’ is the talk on the 14th June by Barry Newman, also in June we will be visiting our chairman’s garden this is on Sunday 18th June.

By the time that you read this we will be preparing for our first stand of 2017, this is at the Kent County show at Detling Show Ground. The Kent Federation of Horticultural Societies invited us to this event.

This year we are moving our DA show to Wingham village hall on the 9th/10th September so we look forward to seeing you there.

Everybody is welcome at our meetings and we would look forward to seeing you there. Our meetings are held at Bridge Village Hall on the 2nd Wednesday of the month from March to October, no meeting in July.

Our full year programme for 2017 is on the NVS web site and the Kent Federation website. More details are available from the secretary Gordon J Francis FNVS on 01622 710486 or email gordonjfrancis@googlemail.com or off of the NVS Website.

Essex DA talk by John and Coral Bebbington

Essex District Association Chairman: Sherie Plumb FNVS; Vice Chairman: Peter Cranfield FNVS; Secretary: Pat Eves FNVS; Treasurer: Emily Plumb FNVS. Our first meeting of 2017 was held on Sunday 12 February; a talk by John and Coral Bebbington on “From Back Bedroom to Allotment”. John and Coral’s talk was both informative and humorous and we all learnt a lot from their methods and experiences.

It was brilliant to hear about some of their techniques; simple things they do which work so effectively and could easily be replicated. It was also great to hear about how their grandson, Aiden plays his part in everything they do on their plot and down their allotment.

Other Essex DA meetings for 2017 are as follows: 22 and 23 April: Spring Plant Fair, RHS Hyde Hall 16 July: Mini Show 15 October: “Experiences from RHS Trials Team” by Richard White 19 November: AGM If anyone can help out or supply any plants for the Spring Plant Fair at Hyde Hall, please do let us know.

If you would like any further information about the Essex DA or any of our events please contact Emily on emily.plumb@ btinternet.com or 01621 741787. We look forward to seeing you at some of our meetings throughout the year!

RHS Wisley Plant Society Weekend June 17-18 Set-up on Friday 16th Help in manning the NVS Stand, sales table and supply of plants for sale.

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Hampshire District Association Chairman: Jim Townsend, Secretary: Alison Clarke, Treasurer: Ann Brown FNVS Despite being a quiet period for most growers, Hants DA still managed to have a busy winter season. We were well entertained in November with Mark Read’s talk on Leeks embellished with humorous anecdotes. Mark is a florist by profession but sets the bar high as an accomplished grower of veg and a very knowledgeable and experienced judge.

Our AGM in December saw a bit of a reshuffle of the committee. Most notably, Ted decided to step down as chairman but remains on the committee to give us the benefit of his wealth of experience. We thank Ted for his valued service at the helm of the Hants DA and now welcome in Jim Townsend as our new Chairman. We look forward to the next exciting instalment of the Hants DA. Southern Branch Chairman Ian Clemens rounded off our AGM with a talk on ‘The Land of the Giant’ and an intriguing insight into the world of mammoth veg. It gave us a taste for giant exhibits and so we are including an extra class in our Annual Show to grow the largest giant sunflower head. We may regret the decision when trying to find sufficient room for the entries on the show bench.

Our 2017 events programme started with the ever popular Potato Day at Whitchurch.

Visitors were keen to gain entry with a queue forming for the 10.00am opening.

The event welcomed a steady stream of both experienced and new gardeners all

with questions or theories leading to some lively discussions. A particular draw to the stand was Barbara’s carrot cake. She had the inspired idea to promote ‘Getting Started Cooking With Vegetables’ by rustling up a recipe from the cook book and offering it for tasters. Both the book and the cake were well received, with 21 books being sold.

At the time of writing we are looking forward to a romantic Valentine’s date with John Trim on 14th Feb and his talk on ‘Planning and preparing your plot’. Whilst this invites the comment “Ought to get out more!” we really are relishing the thought of another informative talk from Trimmy.

Next Meetings: 11 April – ‘Pelargoniums’ by Roger Butler 6 May – Plant Sale 10am-1pm 13 June – ‘Pest and disease management’

by Neil Helyer 9 July – Garden Visit 1.30pm – Cricketers View SO20 8BU 25-27 July – New Forest Show & Southern Branch Championships 10 Sept – Annual Show 1pm 10 Oct – ‘Onions’ by Jim Thompson 14 Nov – ‘Potatoes’ by Chris Bird 12 Dec – AGM Unless otherwise stated, we meet at Wellow Village Hall, Buttons Lane, West Wellow, Romsey, Hants SO51 6BR. The Hants DA 2017 events programme and show schedule are available on the NVS website www.nvsuk.org.uk

Jim Townsend new chairman of Hants DA

Promoting the new cookbook with Barbara’s cake

Ted Perren FNVS retiring chairman of Hants DA

Sussex District Association Chairman: Ian Clemens; Vice Chairman: Paul Dalby; Treasurer: Brian Jeffries FNVS Secretary: Marion Neden At our AGM in January, Barry Newman stood down as Chairman in order to dedicate more of his time to other horticultural commitments. We would like to thank him for his leadership, time and encouragement over his multiple tenures in this important role. Barry will stay on our committee for the foreseeable future which is great as his vast knowledge and extensive network will help us in moving the DA forward. Ian Clemens was elected as Chairman to replace Barry, which will keep him busy with his Southern Branch duties as well. We are also very pleased to welcome Paul Dalby to the committee as our vice Chair. Paul has been an active member of the DA for many years, as he has been for a number of other societies.

Paul is well respected in judging circles as a flower expert and has recently added the NVS judge’s qualification to his portfolio.

Please join me in wishing all well in their new roles.

We are now well into the new growing season and for the first time in recent years, the Sussex DA are preparing to

participate in the Spring Show at Ardingly.

We will be putting on a promotional stand along with a display of growing vegetables in containers. We are hoping to demonstrate to people, with little or no garden, that they can still ‘Grow their own’.

This is a bit of an experiment for us but we are really looking forward to it and will combine it with an opportunity to sell plants and raise funds to the Society. As always we would welcome any help to either man the stand or for growing plants to sell, for both this show and also for the South of England show in June (for dates see below). Please email Marion if you are able to help in anyway.

Our programme for this year is as follows:Please note: New venue: Ashurst Village Hall, Ashurst, Nr Steyning BN44 3AP, 7.30pm.

Wednesday 8th March Talk by Jamie Claxton from Tozers Seeds “Vegetable breeding and new vegetable varieties”.

Sunday/Monday 30th April/1st May Spring Show at Ardingly, “Growing Vegetables in Containers” and NVS Promotional stand. Helpers and growers wanted please.

Tuesday 16th May (please note day and date change) Gardener’s Questions and answers evening. Chair Ian Clemens, Panel: Barry Newman FNVS (Vegetables), Paul Dalby, (Flowers), Jim Arbury, RHS Fruit specialist.

Thursday/Friday/Saturday 8/9/10 June SOUTH OF ENGLAND SHOW – Exhibition Stand and plant sales. Plants and helpers wanted please.

July 18th 2.30pm Outing to Fittleworth House Gardens, hosted by head gardener Mark Saunders. £5 per member towards the NGS. Bedham Lane, Fittleworth, Pulborough, West Sussex, RH20 1JH. Wednesday 13th September Our own MINI Show. Ask secretary for schedule.

Saturday/Sunday, 30 September/ 1st October AUTUMN Show, South of England Show Ground, Ardingly NVS Promotional Stand and display. Helpers and produce please.

Wednesday 8th NovemberTalk by Paul Dalby on Growing and Showing Dahlias.

Wednesday 10th January 2018 AGM followed by Talk by Ian Clemens “Land of the Giants”: An insight into the world of Giant Vegetables.

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Welsh Branch Chairman’s Thoughts 2016 has been a very busy for the Welsh Branch in general and myself.

In March at the A.G.M. it was a great honour for me to be elected Chairman following the sad loss of Colin Lewis on the eve of our branch Championship at the National Botanic Gardens of Wales 2015.

It was an honour to be elected, following in the footsteps of Medwyn Williams, Tom Brown. Brian Davies, Don Owens, and Colin Lewis. It was always going to be a challenging year as the Branch was hosting the National Championships at the National Botanic Gardens of Wales, as well as our own Branch Championships at National Museum of Wales St Fagan’s Cardiff.

St Fagan’s was a new venue for the Branch, it turned out to be a huge success.

Thanks to all the committee for their work during the week-ends, special thanks to my wife Gill for all her work and support during and leading up to both shows.

Congratulations to all the Welsh members who exhibited and won prizes in both shows.

Thanks to all our exhibitors for their support.

I do hope that we as a Branch can return to St Fagan’s in the near future as it turned out a popular venue.

On a sadder note The Welsh Branch lost

our President Bob Ball during the year. Bob was a long standing committee member, and over the years had raised a huge amount of sponsorship to the Branch.

It was also a huge honour for me to be presented with a Gold Medal at the A.G.M. Congratulations also to Jim Thompson (Branch Treasurer) on receiving his Gold Medal, hugely deserved. Also congratulations to John Oliver and Ron Jones who both were honoured with Fellowships. Thank you for all your work on the committee.

Looking forward to 2017, The Welsh Branch are again hoping to attend the R.H.S. Cardiff Show and the Royal Welsh Show again this year. Looking forward to seeing old and new friends.

Following the success of the National Championships at The National Botanic Gardens of Wales, we have accepted an invitation from the Gardens to host the Welsh Championships for 2017. The show will again be held in the Great Greenhouse on the 9th and 10th September 2017.

Looking forward to seeing you all there.

Diolch yn fawr Arwyn Edwards F.N.V.S. Welsh Branch Chairman

Our Show in the Great Glasshouse

Welsh Branch Championships 9th / 10th Sept 2017 National Botanic Garden Of Wales Llanarthne Nr Carmarthen Places to stay in Carmarthen.

Carmarthen is approximately 8 miles from the Botanic Garden.

BOARS HEAD HOTEL 01267 222789 Double rooms range from £65.00 (B@B) FALCON HOTEL 01267 234959/237152 Double rooms range from £80.00 (B@B) SPILMAN HOTEL 01267 237037 Double rooms range from £75.00 (B@B)

Welsh Branch stand at the Royal Welsh Show

RHS Cardiff Show Welsh Branch committee members will be attending the RHS Cardiff Show, Friday 7th to Sunday 9th April. We will have a bureau and sales area. Any members who can help on the stand can contact Arwyn Edwards or Ivor Mace. Cardiff is a lovely friendly show held in Bute Park at the rear of Cardiff Castle. Entry from the castle, or Sophia Gardens, or North Road near The Welsh College of Music & Drama. Bute Park was landscaped in the late 1800’s by the Marquis of Bute, when coal was king.

He sponsored plant hunters and Bute Park had trees from various parts of the world long before they became generally available, hence the reason why there are so many champion trees in the park. Do visit our stand and make yourself known to our members.

The Royal Welsh Show The Welsh Branch Committee members will be putting on a display of vegetables

Spring Bulbs at Cardiff Show

and a bureau at the Royal Welsh show Monday 24th to Thursday 27th July. Any members who might be able to help either with vegetables or manning the stand can contact either Arwyn Edwards or Ivor Mace. The Royal Welsh show is one of the UK’s foremost agricultural shows, attracting over 240,000 people last year. The horticultural marquee is well supported by trade exhibitors and amateurs alike. There is a vegetable section which is very well supported.

Welsh Branch Championships.

The Welsh Branch championships will be returning to the National Botanic Garden of Wales, Carmarthenshire after a very successful show National show held there last year. The show will be held on Saturday 9th and Sunday 10th September. See booking accommodation in a separate notice. Contact Arwyn Edwards for a schedule.

IVY BUSH CARMARTHEN 01267 235111 There is a Travelodge at Cross Hands which is 4 miles East of the Botanic Gardens and about 12miles East of Carmarthen via the A48 dual carriageway. Please make sure that you book early as these are not very large hotels.

Irish Report Overall our DA is hanging on there, we have 20 to 30 members at present.

I will be devoting a bit more time to it this year and am confident that we can pick up a few more members. If you know of any vegetable growers in Ireland please point them in my direction, my contact details are on The Team page.

Michael Gordan

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