salonfocus May/June2018

£3.50 The essential magazine for salon owners

May/June 2018

ALL ABOUT THE BOY “Reclaimed adolescence”, the latest collection from MHFed, the Men’s Hairdressing Federation’s artistic team

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Your final countdown checklist to GDPR data law

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How female barbershop owners are breaking the mould

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Don’t get left behind by gender neutral pricing May/June 2018 | salonfocus

Contents

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C O N T E N T S P6 NEWS Nearly a quarter of Britons admit to never having checked their skin for possible signs of skin cancer

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P10 MORE MINIMUM WAGE WOES The perils of requiring staff to buy casual clothes for work if you don’t then pay back the cost P12 VIEWS ON VAT VAT and business rates were in the spotlight in March’s first ever “spring statement” P14 GDPR COUNTDOWN Just days from the EU’s new GDPR data law coming into force, make sure you know what to do P16 ROOM TO GROW Chair or room renting is a great option for many. But you need to know what’s involved P20 SECOND THE BEST How do you turn your successful barbershop into two, three or even more without running yourself into the ground?

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P24 BREAKING THE MOULD We speak to two female barbershop owners thriving in what has traditionally been a male-dominated industry P26 TIME TRAVEL More and more salons and barbershops are moving to time-based “gender neutral” pricing, in a shift that is not just about equality but can be good business sense P32 LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION Backstage at the NHF’s Photographic Stylist of the Year winners’ photoshoot with UNITE

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P34 AVOID THE RAT RACE Rats or mice in your salon can be seriously bad news.

Don’t get caught out

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P36 HOLIDAY PLANNING Working out annual leave entitlement can be tricky.

With summer coming, get clear where you stand P38 EVENTS Including a sneak preview of this autumn’s competitions

£3.50 The essential magazine for salon owners

May/June 2018

ALL ABOUT THE BOY “Reclaimed adolescence”, the latest collection from MHFed, the Men’s Hairdressing Federation’s artistic team

14

Your final countdown checklist to GDPR data law

24

How female barbershop owners are breaking the mould

26

Don’t get left behind by gender neutral pricing May/June 2018 | salonfocus

COVER IMAGE An image from MHFed’s “Reclaimed adolescence” collection, inspired by the Men’s Hairdressing Federation’s artistic team wanting to revisit their youth.

CREDITS Styling: Harry Green (MHFed Artistic Team) Clothing: Lewis Robert Cameron Make-up: Olivia Kay Jenkins-Smith

CONNECT WITH US AND HAVE YOUR COMMENTS AND TWEETS IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF SALONFOCUS May/June 2018 | salonfocus

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Welcome

PR ESIDEN T’S

L E T T E R SALONFOCUS IS PUBLISHED BY: National Hairdressers’ Federation, One Abbey Court, Fraser Road, Priory Business Park, Bedford MK44 3WH t: +44 (0) 1234 831965 f: +44 (0) 1234 838875 e: sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk w: www.nhf.info PUBLISHER Hilary Hall e: hilary.hall@nhf.info EDITOR Nic Paton e: nic@cormorantmedia.co.uk PR, EVENTS AND SOCIAL MEDIA Kelly Sylvester t. +44 (0) 1234 831965 e. kelly.sylvester@nhf.info ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Andy Etherton T: + 44 (0) 1536 527297 e: andy.etherton@nhf.info ART DIRECTOR Adriano Cattini Matrix Print Consultants Ltd t: +44 (0) 1536 527297 e: adriano@matrixprint.com While every care is taken in compiling this issue of salonfocus including manuscripts and photographs submitted, we accept no responsibility for any losses or damage, whatever the cause. All information and prices contained in advertisements are accepted by the publishers in good faith as being correct at the time of going to press.

Neither the advertisers nor the publishers accept any responsibility for any variations affecting price variations or availability after the publication has gone to press. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the permission of the publisher, to whom application must first be made. The views expressed by contributors to salonfocus are not necessarily those of the NHF, the publisher or its editor. © 2018 The National Hairdressers’ Federation.

Material for consideration in this section of the magazine should be submitted via email or digital file transfer to the editor, salonfocus. Submissions should be made on the understanding that the National Hairdressers’ Federation has the right to use the material in any part of the magazine and any of its other publications, promotions or website, free from any copyright restrictions, or appearance fees other than the issue of artistic and photographic credits where applicable. Please include salon name, photographer and stylist.

hether it’s large organisations being criticised for paying women less than men or the “Me Too” sexual harassment movement in the US, you don’t to have look too far to recognise that gender equality is a very topical issue right now in the news and on social media.

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It’s also an issue hairdressing and barbering is having to address around the pricing of services. There has long been a perception within the industry that, because women’s services have traditionally been more ABOUT AGNES complex and time-intensive, they should Agnes Leonard is president of the NHF and a registered automatically be charged more than men. hairdresser. She has worked in the industry for 37 years and But, as we highlight in this edition, owns Croppers Hair Studio growing demand for male grooming and in Dundee, a busy, family-run salon successfully adapting to the changing trends in men’s styling mean fast-changing retail environment – just, in fact, like many NHF this view is becoming harder and harder members up and down to justify, even before we get to discussions the country. about fairness and equality.

Naturally, every salon and barbershop owner will make a judgement based on what is best for their business and best reflects what their clients want.

But the NHF’s position is that, ideally, the price a salon or barbershop charges should simply reflect the amount of time taken to provide the service, the level or skill of the stylist, and the number and kinds of products used.

Gender neutral, time-based pricing is something increasingly expected by clients. As an industry, we need to step up and respond.

AGNES LEONARD NHF president

COMING UP IN JULY/AUGUST 2018 Could your salon or barbershop benefit from a crash “cash diet”? We look at how to cut down on unnecessary spending without harming service excellence Be a winner… this year’s NHF’s Business Awards, Britain’s Best and the Photographic Stylist of the Year are all getting underway. We show you what you need to know

salonfocus | May/June 2018

Do you have a salon story to tell? Would you like to be featured in salonfocus?

Get in touch with the team, on 01234 831965, or send an email to nic@cormorantmedia.co.uk

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News

NHF SUPPORTS TREATMENTS REGISTER

QUARTER OF BRITONS ‘NEVER CHECK SKIN’ FOR CHANGES early a quarter (23%) of Britons admit to never having checked their skin for life-threatening changes – something hairdressers, barbers and beauty therapists can often help with – despite a surge in skin cancer deaths over the last decade, research has suggested.

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A study of more than 2,000 people was commissioned by skin checking app Miiskin, which has teamed up with the British Skin Foundation charity in a new campaign eyesonyourskin.co.uk to raise awareness about checking skin for changes in moles.

Hairdressers, barbers and beauty therapists are often in a prime position to spot and flag up changes they see to clients and suggest they get them checked out by their GP. This is especially the case for moles or lumps on the back or top of the head or back of the neck that would otherwise be hard to see The study revealed that 3% of those polled had a mole they had been concerned about for more than three months, yet had not had it seen by a medical professional. One in 50

salonfocus | May/June 2018

currently had a persistently itchy or bleeding mole.

Surprisingly, 17% of Britain’s under35s believed they were too young or weren’t exposed to the sun enough to develop skin cancer.

Almost a fifth of under-35s said they were now taking “selfies” to monitor their skin for moles, with 18% using photos to document changes.

One in 10 (11%) of those questioned said they used tanning beds, with 13% admitting to sessions once or multiple times a week.

Separately, the charity Cancer Research UK in March highlighted that cutting down on using sunbeds was one of the common lifestyle changes people could make to reduce their risk of contracting cancer.

As many as 40% of cancers could be avoided by simple lifestyle changes, such as quitting smoking or reducing weight, it argued.

FIND OUT MORE The NHF has a helpful blog on spotting the signs of skin cancer and how to have these conversations with clients. Check it out at nhf.info/blog/skin-cancer

The NHF has given its backing to a new voluntary register of people qualified to carry out non-surgical cosmetic treatments.

The Joint Council for Cosmetic Practitioners launched the not-for-profit register in February at the House of Lords reception attended by the NHF, BABTAC, other beauty industry bodies and awarding organisations VTCT, iTEC and CIBTAC. The register will show those who are qualified to carry out Botox and similar antiwrinkle injectables, dermal fillers, chemical peels and skin rejuvenation, laser treatments and hair restoration surgery.

Practitioners will need to meet stringent standards including qualifications, safety, insurance, premises and complaints handling to be included on the register.

Separately, nearly half (43%) of Britons say they are interested in undergoing nonsurgical cosmetic procedures, research from Mintel has suggested.

The poll of more than 1,900 people found 12% would consider permanent hair removal and 11% skin treatments, while 27% would go for teeth whitening.

News

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‘SLAVERY’ NAIL BARS IN SPOTLIGHT

DELAY TO TAX-FREE CHILDCARE SCHEME The NHF is alerting members to the fact that the government's plans to replace childcare vouchers with a new tax-free childcare scheme have been put on hold.

After a political wrangle, the planned closure of childcare vouchers to new applicants from 06 April has now been delayed for six months.

The plan had been that, rather than using

employer-provided vouchers, eligible parents would be able to get tax-free childcare worth up to £2,000 per year managed through an online account.

However, concerns

by MPs that the new scheme could disadvantage poorer parents plus glitches on the HM Revenue & Customs’ website that left thousands of parents unable either to set up accounts or

ALLERGY WARNING A salon in Glasgow has been forced to pay damages of £7,250 to a client who suffered a severe allergic reaction after a brow tint was carried out without a prior allergy alert test.

In a case brought before Glasgow’s Sheriff Court in March, Blush Hair and Beauty in the Shettleston area of the city (and not an NHF member) was fined for its “negligent wrong” after client Lauren Grubb’s eye swelled up and her skin turned red and blotchy.

The court heard that it took five days for the swelling to subside and two weeks for Lauren’s skin to

access money paid in, have led to it being delayed.

NHF chief executive Hilary Hall said: “It is crucial that the system works for parents signing up to the taxfree childcare scheme.

Until that happens, the NHF welcomes the temporary reprieve granted for childcare vouchers to give working parents realistic options for help with childcare costs.”

return to normal, and she required antihistamines, steroid cream, tablets and antibiotics to recover.

Some of her skin peeled off, the skin around her eyebrows was weeping and she lost hairs from her brows that took two months to grow back.

FIND OUT MORE The NHF’s Allergy Alert Consultation and Colour Record Card ensures

hairdressers, barbers and beauty therapists follow best practice guidelines for allergy alert testing for hair colouring, plus means salons can have peace of mind they are still covered for insurance. Visit nhf.info/colourrecord-card to get yours today.

A woman was arrested at a nail salon in Bath in March on suspicion of modern slavery, a move following the first successful prosecution in January of nail bar owners under the 2015 Modern Slavery Act. Police raided Bellissimo Artistry in Bath town centre following an alert via the Modern Slavery Helpline.

In January three people, also from Bath, who ran the Nail Deluxe bar received prison sentences for exploitation and enforced child labour.

The activity comes after the government’s anti-slavery commissioner Kevin Hyland in September warned that UK nail bars were becoming particular targets for Vietnamese organised crime gangs as ways to traffic vulnerable women into the county (salonfocus, News, November/December 2017).

BEAUTY SLEEP Hairdressing may sometimes have a glamorous “party” reputation but in reality hairdressers and beauty therapists are more disciplined about getting an early night than many other professions, according to a survey.

Hairdressers and beauty therapists got on average nine hours and 40 minutes’ sleep per night, double that of healthcare professionals who get the least, at approximately four hours and 15 minutes, the survey by home furnishings retailer Hilarys concluded.

May/June 2018 | salonfocus

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News

INDUSTRY RISES TO SUPPORT DISABLED HAIRDRESSER MITCH

he inspiring story of how one young man has overcome being paralysed to forge a career in hairdressing was one of the highlights of the Hairdressers’ Charity Valentine’s fundraising ball in February.

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NHF chief executive Hilary Hall, president Agnes Leonard and her partner Derek Mitchell, and past president Mark Coray (all pictured below) were among the 200 guests who attended the event hosted by co-Presidents Samantha Grocutt of Essence PR and Philip Sharp of Affinage Salon Professional.

The evening heard the story of Mitch Chalmers, one of the charity’s one-off support beneficiaries.

In 2014, Mitch (pictured above) suffered a spinal cord injury that left him paralysed. The injury meant he could no longer continue in his career as a plasterer and so enrolled on a hairdressing course at Bath College.

But there was still the question of how he could work with clients from a wheelchair. The answer was provided through wheelchair manufacturer

salonfocus | May/June 2018

Gerald Simonds’ “LEVO active-easy” chair which converts from a sitting to standing position.

“As soon as I tried one out for myself I knew I had found the answer and that I could forge a career in hairdressing, so set about raising the money to buy one,” Mitch recalled.

A combination of local fundraising, help from friends and family, support from Bath College and the donation from the Hairdressers’ Charity has helped him to purchase the chair.

“When I was using a frame, I could only stand for about 10 minutes at a time. But since using my LEVO I can now stand for up to two hours, which is not only great for my hairdressing training, but also my daily physiotherapy,” added Mitch.

PRESIDENT’S AWARDS Former NHF treasurer Jeffery Bonn was given the prestigious President’s Award, while the Jayne Henderson Award for Fundraising was presented to Victor Pajak of Headquarters for organising the annual charity bike ride that raised over £11,000.

The evening also saw the launch of the charity’s Heart Team, a high-profile group who will be the industry face of the charity, working to raise its profile, brand and “story”.

The 2018 team includes Toby and Amanda Dicker of The Chapel group of salons, Victor Pajak, Ella Johnson of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa, Linda and Alan Stewart of Rainbow Room International and Lorenzo Colangelo of The Gallery.

PAY CHANGES Salons and barbershops are being reminded that many pay rates changed last month (April) with the start of the new financial year.

Statutory paternity, maternity, shared parental and adoption pay also increased from 01 April, from £140.98 a week to £145.18.

Statutory sick pay will rise from £89.35 a week to £92.05.

Alongside this, all hourly rates for the National Living Wage and National Minimum Wage went up.

The National Living Wage for over-25s rose to £7.83, the 21-24 year-old minimum wage to £7.38, the 18-24 rate to £5.90, the 16-17 rate to £4.20, and apprentice wage to £3.70.

Many hairdressers are still being “named and shamed” by the government for failing to pay their staff the correct minimum or living wage. For full details, turn to page ten.

NHF AT BARBER CONNECT The NHF will be out in force at next month’s Barber Connect in Telford, with a stand at A10 over the two days.

Tickets are free to the show, which runs from Sunday 03 to Monday 04 June, at the International Centre in Telford.

More details can be found at barberconnect.co.uk As well as the NHF, barbers will be able to take in presentations from Wahl global artistic director Simon Shaw and members of his artistic team, including Michael Damiano, 5ive The Stylist, and Carl Blake, among others.

Josh Lamonaca and members of the Menspire Academy will be speaking about how they fuse innovative barbering with traditional hairdressing techniques.

News

TWITTER FOLLOWERS 11.7K

SOUTHSEA NICOLA IS ‘STEP UP’ WINNER

FACEBOOK LIKES 13,217

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INSTAGRAM LIKES 2,581

WHAT’S TRENDING TWEETS AND POSTS FROM AROUND THE NHF

wezvoodou

Nicola Hamm from Escape Hair Lounge in Southsea, Portsmouth, has been announced as the lucky winner of this year’s ‘Step Up & SHINE’ training and mentoring scholarship.

The competition, in memory of industry legend Christofer Mann, is run by the NHF and the Fellowship for British Hairdressing.

Nicola will now embark on a bespoke education programme worth £2,500 and be mentored by the renowned hairdressing educator Debbie G. Step Up & SHINE is in its fifth year and is designed to nurture one passionate stylist so they can enhance and develop in their career.

Entrants had to submit a 60-second video to Instagram explaining why they felt they were the perfect candidate to receive the scholarship.

The winner was announced at the fellowship’s President’s Network in April, and Nicola was presented with her award at Skylon on London’s Southbank by NHF president Agnes Leonard and World Hair director Edward Hemmings.

Nicola said winning the scholarship was “phenomenal”. She added: “Particularly because I’m only from a small salon in Portsmouth, I didn’t expect to get very far. I’ve dreamt of reaching the top of my career as a stylist, so having access to this level of quality training will enable me to take the steps to get there. This is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity that I’m not going to waste.”

You can follow Nicola’s “journey” at nhf.info/stepupandshine

wezvoodou A first place for colour and a third for the front cover of a magazine for me today at the @nhfederation championships. Buzzin thank you to my amazing model @nucleargregory for always giving me creative freedom.

Insane makeup skills by my amazing team mate @beccijennions #nhfcompetition #haircompetition

melissasalons melissasalons Thank you to the NHF, Unite and @ raspberryjamstudio for an incredible shoot today. We all had a brilliant day and can't wait to see the final images!

Hellen Ward My quote for @ NHfederation on #internationalWomensDay

JOIN IN THE CONVERSATION @nhfederation

@NHFederation

facebook.com/national hairdressersfederation

May/June 2018 | salonfocus

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Minimum pay and “naming and shaming”

BLACK PAY

SHOULD BLACK JEANS, EVEN BLACK SHOES, BE THOUGHT OF AS “UNIFORM”? YES, IF YOU REQUIRE STAFF TO WEAR THEM TO LOOK THE PART. AND IF THEY’RE ON THE MINIMUM OR LIVING WAGE, YOU’LL NEED TO COVER THE COST IF YOU DON’T WANT TO RISK BEING “NAMED AND SHAMED” BY THE GOVERNMENT.

irst the good news: hairdressing wasn’t the worst offender in the latest round of the government’s “naming and shaming” of businesses that failed to pay employees their legal minimum wage – that “honour” goes to the hospitality sector.

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But hairdressing still came second in terms of numbers of businesses that failed to pay employees either their correct National Minimum Wage rate or the National Living Wage, if aged over 25.

In all, 19 hairdressing employers underpaid 152 workers by a total of £43,938, the Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy concluded in March.

So, why are employers, salons or otherwise, still failing to get this basic legal requirement right?

MESSING UP OVER UNIFORMS

In the case of some of the highprofile hospitality businesses caught out, including Wagamama and TGI Fridays, it was reportedly because they failed to reimburse staff for the

salonfocus | May/June 2018

cost of buying uniforms, meaning their take-home pay dipped below the legal level.

Crucially, this wasn’t branded clothing or tops – which most employers would recognise as “uniform” they need to buy for their team – it was some of the other basic clothing that went with it.

For example, because Wagamama requires its front-of-house staff to wear black jeans or a black skirt with their Wagamama-branded tops, HMRC regarded this as “uniform”.

Similarly, TGI Fridays requires team members to wear black shoes, and so this was again counted by HMRC as “uniform”. In both cases, the cost of purchasing these should therefore have been reimbursed and, by not doing so, the businesses were paying their employees less than the legal minimum.

There is an important lesson to be learned here for salons and barbershops, as NHF chief executive Hilary Hall highlighted following the government announcement.

“Deductions from pay, for any reason, are a tricky area and you should take legal advice before doing

so, even if your employees agree to them being made. If such deductions take a team member below the minimum wage, then you’re breaking the law,” she pointed out.

“These cases clearly demonstrate that you can’t require employees to buy or supply uniform, even if you haven’t actually deducted the cost from their pay. HMRC will still consider the cost of items which employees have to supply as a deduction from wages for the purposes of calculating the national minimum wage,” she emphasised.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

Bear in mind, too, this extends to the cost of any tools you require a worker to buy, perhaps scissors or clippers or any specific safety or protective equipment.

Even if your employee has happily gone out and bought it, if they’re on the National Minimum Wage or National Living Wage you as the employer still need to cover that cost if you don’t want to risk being “named and shamed” next time by the government.

Minimum pay and “naming and shaming”

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CHANGE COMING ON PAY SLIPS FIND OUT MORE Because deductions are such an easy area to get caught out on, the NHF’s standard employee contracts provide peace of mind by not allowing employers to make deductions to cover the cost of uniforms, tools and equipment.

They can be downloaded at nhf.info The NHF’s Guide to the National Minimum Wage and National Living Wage and Guide to Recruitment both cover what you can and can’t legally deduct from pay in more detail. They can also be downloaded for free by members at nhf.info

Salon and barbershop owners should be aware that, as part of its response to the Taylor Review of Modern Working Practices, the government in February committed itself to changing the law around payslips.

Currently only employees have a statutory, legal entitlement to receive a payslip from their employer.

Back in 2016, the Low Pay Commission recommended that this right should be extended to all “workers”, including freelancers and contractors.

The government has said it now plans to bring forward legislation to do just this. It will also require that anyone being paid by the hour must be able to see exactly how many hours they have been paid for.

DON’T FORGET NEW PAY RATES Don’t forget, the National Living Wage and National Minimum Wage rates all went up last month, and so your payroll needs to have adjusted accordingly.

The hourly National Living Wage is now £7.83. National Minimum Wage hourly rates are £7.38 for ages 21-24, £5.90 for 18-20, £4.20 for 16-17, and £3.70 for apprentices.

The apprentice rate only applies to those aged 16-18 training on a recognised apprenticeship and to those aged 19 or over who are in the first year of an apprenticeship.

After this, they should revert to their appropriate age-related rate.

May/June 2018 | salonfocus

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March spring statement

o an extent, March’s first ever “spring statement” by the chancellor of the exchequer Philip Hammond did exactly what it said on the tin.

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VIEWS ON

VAT

VAT, BUSINESS RATES, AND THE FUTURE OF SMALL CHANGE WERE ALL IN THE SPOTLIGHT IN MARCH’S FIRST EVER “SPRING STATEMENT” BY THE GOVERNMENT.

salonfocus | May/June 2018

Back in 2016, Mr Hammond announced that the main Budget would switch to the autumn with just a financial progress-report taking place in the summer.

Nevertheless, while there were no headline-grabbing policy announcements, there were still some nuggets of useful information for owners of hair and beauty salons and barbershops.

Perhaps most significantly, Mr Hammond formally launched his consultation on the future shape of VAT, as previously revealed in the Budget (salonfocus, Jan-Feb 2018).

This will run until 05 June, with the government keen to hear ideas from businesses and others as to how to ease the VAT burden on

March spring statement

small businesses once they hit the £85,000 VAT registration threshold.

Businesses can contribute views online by going to surveymonkey. co.uk/r/W7TLCZ7 NHF chief executive Hilary Hall said: “We have been calling for tiered rates which would introduce VAT in smaller steps, removing the ‘cliff edge’ once a salon or barbershop reaches the VAT threshold. We would like to see the government go further, for example reducing the rate of VAT for hairdressing, similar to other European countries.”

RATES REVALUATIONS Changes to how business rates are calculated will also happen more quickly. In the autumn Budget Mr Hammond confirmed that business rates revaluations – the point at which bills are recalculated to take account of changes in property prices – will now happen every

three years rather than every five.

This is to prevent a repeat of 2017’s revaluation, which had been the first since 2010 because the process had been repeatedly postponed. This meant some businesses saw their business rates bills soar because property prices had increased significantly in that period.

In the spring statement, Mr Hammond said this switch to a three-year cycle will now start in 2021 rather than 2022.

• Formal launch of consultation on future of VAT • Start of new three-year revaluation cycle for business rates brought forward one year to 2021

DESIGNED WITH YOU IN MIND

Salonsure is a comprehensive specialist insurance policy, recommended by the NHF, which has been specifically designed for hair and beauty salons, barber shops and self-employed chair renters.

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Hilary Hall welcomed this change: “This means that rates bills will be a more accurate reflection of current property values, which is especially important in locations where property prices are going down.”

Finally, a consultation was also launched on the future role of cash in an increasing digital and cardbased economy, including looking at the future demand for £50 notes and 1p and 2p pieces. This consultation will run until June.

KEY ANNOUNCEMENTS

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• Call for evidence on incentives to cut use of single-use plastics • Consultation on future role of cash, including 1p and 2p coins and £50 notes

COVERED FOR Colour TESTING CLIENTS When you insure with Salonsure you can use the NHF colour record cards to quickly and easily determine whether you can colour your clients’ hair immediately or if you need to do a patch test.

Insurance DESIGNED WITH THE hair & beauty industry IN MIND

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The EU’s GDPR data law

NUMBER CRUNCH WE ARE JUST DAYS AWAY FROM THE EU’S NEW GDPR DATA LAW COMING INTO FORCE ON 25 MAY. ARE YOU UP TO SPEED YET? USE OUR Q&AS TO HELP UNDERSTAND WHAT GDPR IS, WHAT TO DO ABOUT IT AND HOW TO COMPLY WITH THESE TOUGH DATA PROTECTION LAWS.

salonfocus | May/June 2018

WHAT IS GDPR?

GDPR stands for the General Data Protection Regulation. GDPR will replace the Data Protection Act 1998 from 25 May 2018. You can be heavily fined if you don’t comply with GDPR, so make sure your hair/ beauty salon or barbershop stays within the law.

DO I NEED TO REGISTER?

Yes. If you run a hairdressing, barbering or beauty business you will have access to personal information about clients, for example their name, address and telephone number. You will therefore need to be registered on

The EU’s GDPR data law

these is consent and you will need to get consent from new clients to receive marketing messages from you. This means they must opt-in, so you can no longer provide a box that is already ticked and expect clients to “untick” it if they wish to opt out.

You don’t need to get consent from existing clients if you collected their contact information as part of providing a service or product to them and you’re marketing only for similar purposes. Every marketing message you send must include a clear and easy way to opt out of receiving further marketing messages.

It’s good practice to send a confirmation email to everyone who opts into receiving your marketing messages. You can thank them for option in and clearly state that they are free to opt out at any time.

The NHF has created template consent forms for marketing, special category data and children. There are also templates documents covering the information audit, privacy notice, data retention policy, data breach procedure and how to respond to receipt of a consent form.

WHAT OTHER RIGHTS DO STAFF AND CLIENTS HAVE?

WHAT ABOUT PERSONAL INFORMATION ABOUT MY STAFF?

• What personal data you collect • Why and how it is used • Who it will be shared with • When and why it will be deleted • What you will not use it for

The NHF is updating staff contracts to make sure they comply with GDPR. We will issue further guidance on what personal information you can hold, what purpose you can use it for and any consents needed. the new Information Commissioner’s Office (ICO) registration scheme. This applies to sole traders and the selfemployed too.

If you are already registered with the ICO under the old data protection laws, the ICO should transfer you to GDPR when your registration is due.

AM I ALLOWED TO USE CLIENT DATA FOR MARKETING?

Yes! You can use personal data to carry out direct marketing activities but under GDPR you must have a specific, lawful reason for collecting and using personal information for marketing. The most important of

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Under GDPR, staff and clients both have the right to: • See and correct data you hold on them (within 30 days of a request) • Obtain and reuse their data for their own purposes in a commonly used format (for example, a Word document or Excel spreadsheet) • Have their data deleted from your electronic and/or paper systems (unless there is a good reason not to, for example a legal action) WHAT SHOULD STAFF KNOW?

Clients may ask your staff about GDPR, so ensure they know what to say. Keep client messages positive, so reassure them you keep their personal information safe and secure, emphasising your business is trustworthy and secure.

DO I NEED A PRIVACY POLICY?

Yes. You will need a privacy policy that is easy to understand and publicly available. Your privacy notice should include:

Bear in mind, this list is just a basic outline and not comprehensive.

FIND OUT MORE The Information Commissioner’s Office has a range of guides and resources that can be accessed through its website, ico.org.uk To help prepare for GDPR, the NHF

has published a comprehensive guide on GDPR, a suite of template documents including a privacy notice, consent forms for marketing, a data retention

policy as well as GDPR-compliant employee contracts and chair renting agreements, all available exclusively to members. See more at nhf.info/ gdpr-guide

May/June 2018 | salonfocus

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Understanding chair or room renting

ROOM TO GROW CHAIR OR ROOM RENTING CAN BE A GREAT OPTION FOR SALON AND BARBERSHOP OWNERS AS WELL AS INDIVIDUAL STYLISTS, BEAUTY THERAPISTS AND BARBERS. BUT TO ENSURE SUCCESS YOU NEED TO KNOW WHAT’S INVOLVED AND HOW TO MAKE IT WORK.

he NHF’s latest industry statistics show that more than half (57%) of people working in hairdressing and barbering are self-employed, along with 54% in beauty.

Many will rent a chair or room, an option becoming increasingly popular within the industry. But how can both sides – owner and renter – get it right? That is where the NHF can help.

renting than simply saving money.

Here are four important issues you’ll need to think about before deciding if you want to go down this route.

UNDERSTANDING CHAIR AND ROOM RENTING AS A SALON OR BARBERSHOP OWNER

2) You’ll need a watertight contract You must have a legal contract in place between you and your chair or room renter. This should set out the rights and obligations of both sides and will help to avoid disagreements and expensive legal action in the future.

Make sure the contract clearly sets out how the agreement can be ended.

It is a good idea to include a threemonth trial period.

NHF members can download the NHF’s free chair and room renting contracts at nhf.info/shop

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If you are thinking of renting out a chair or a room, one of the most important things to consider is if it will be worthwhile financially.

By the time you factor in your employee outgoings, such as National Insurance, holiday pay, sick pay, and pension contributions, it is highly likely chair renting will save you money.

However…. there is more to chair

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1) You’ll have less control A chair or room renter is a selfemployed individual who is running their own business completely independently of you. This means you won’t be able to tell them: • what hours to work • what to wear • which services or products to provide.

3) You’ll need to be on top of your tax planning Your accounts must clearly show that your chair or room renters are selfemployed and not your employees.

Your renters, in turn, must be registered with HM Revenue & Customs, do their own accounts and pay their own taxes.

HMRC has been taking more interest in recent years in the tax structures of chair and room renting, especially VAT, and so you need everything to be completely clear and transparent from a tax point of view.

4) You’ll need watertight insurance Whether you’re a salon or barbershop owner or a self-employed chair or room renter, you’ll need insurance for your business, especially employers’ and/or public liability, as highlighted in the March/April edition of salonfocus.

NHF members (and that can include chair renters) can get 20% off their insurance with Coversure Insurance Services. Find out more at coversure.co.uk/nhf

Understanding chair or room renting

FIND OUT MORE There is a lot to think about when you have chair or room renters in your salon or barbershop.

NHF members can rely on the NHF for expert support and advice about all aspects of chair and room renting, including working out licence fees and service charges and free chair or room renting contracts.

To find out more, ring our membership team on 01234 831965 or get help from our free 24/7 commercial helpline.

UNDERSTANDING CHAIR AND ROOM RENTING AS A RENTER

Chair and room renters are selfemployed stylists, beauty therapists and barbers. It’s a simple business model: you rent a chair in a salon or

barbershop from the owner and, in return, see your own clients within that business.

You may be physically working in the same space, but your selfemployed business is completely separate from the salon or barbershop. There are pros and cons to doing this.

• The benefits Being self-employed is a great choice for some people who are looking for a better work/life balance and more independence. As a chair or room renter you will be able to: • be your own boss • choose your own hours of work • set your own prices • decide which services to offer • decide which products to sell.

• The challenges Unlike an employee, you will be responsible for keeping your own business accounts, declaring your earnings and paying your taxes.

You must be able to prove you are self-employed and not an employee of the hair or beauty salon or

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barbershop where you are working.

Other important issues to recognise, however, include that: • You will not be entitled to holiday pay or Statutory Sick Pay • You will have to make your own pension arrangements • You will need to have your own business insurance • You will be responsible for meeting health and safety requirements related to running your business • You will have to deal with any complaints your clients make, and any legal action taken against you • You will have to organise and pay for your own professional development training • You will be responsible for complying with all business legislation, including the new data protection laws under GDPR GET A CLEAR CONTRACT

Perhaps the most important thing to have in place, for both sides, is a clear legal contract.

This should outline how much rent you will be paying to the salon

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Understanding chair or room renting

or barbershop and exactly what you will be getting in return.

For example, will your payments include receptionist services?

Electricity and water bills? Laundry facilities? Cleaning and waste disposal? There is lots to think about, and it makes sense to get expert help, including from the NHF. Chair and room renters who are members of the NHF can, like any member, call our friendly membership team for information about all aspects of chair and room renting.

You’ll also have access to our free 24/7 commercial helpline for expert advice about running your selfemployed business. Find out more at nhf.info Just as importantly, members can download our free Guide to Chair Renting or Employing Staff, which includes information about how much salons or barbershops should charge for chair or room renting. Go to nhf.info/chair-renting

self-employment is viewed or treated generally in terms of tax and benefits.

Last summer, the government’s Taylor Review of Modern Working Practices argued that the growing popularity of self-employment, and worries about possible exploitation as a result, meant a new category of worker, a “dependent contractor”, should be created.

This would be a halfway house between being employed and being self-employed, and could potentially give people previously classed as selfemployed rights to benefits such as holiday or sick pay.

This would, naturally, have significant implications for the relationship between chair and room renter and business owner.

For the moment, however, it is still not clear whether or not this will happen. The government, in its response to the Taylor Review in February, put this idea out to further consultation.

Other recommendations made by

THE CHANGING FACE OF SELF-EMPLOYMENT

The NHF provides a voice for all those running a hairdressing, barbering or beauty business, from limited companies through to sole traders and those who are selfemployed.

However, for anyone thinking of going down the chair or room renting route, whether as an employer or renter, it is important to be aware changes may be coming for how

salonfocus | May/June 2018

the review are also still up in the air, as NHF chief executive Hilary Hall explains.

“We are looking for clarity on the status of chair and beauty room renters working in salons and what additional rights (if any) they should be entitled to. The Taylor Review recommended that everyone, including the self-employed who work within another business, should receive a clear statement of their rights and also the responsibilities of the businesses they work in.

“We expect this to look similar to the chair and beauty room renting agreements the NHF has had in place for many years. These ensure that not only are both parties completely clear on who does what, who pays for what, and how it’s all going to work in practice but it also ensures they’re operating within the boundaries of employment law,” she adds.

IF NOTHING ELSE READ THIS • Consider the pros and cons of chair and room renting before committing • Ensure clear and legal contracts are in place • Ensure renters’ financial accounts are separate from the main business • Get discounted insurance with Coversure • Contact the NHF for expert help and support • Look out for NHF campaign updates

FIND OUT MORE As well as our in-depth guide to chair renting (nhf. info/chair-renting) the NHF offers members a wide range of additional information to

support employers and chair renters including health and safety advice and an expert guide on prices, wages and profits: nhf.info/profits

Go to our “advice” section on nhf. info where you can access all our guides, blogs as well as all the most up-todate advice within salonfocus magazine

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Expanding to a second barber shop

SECOND THE BEST WELL DONE, YOU’VE BUILT UP A SUCCESSFUL BARBERSHOP. BUT HOW DO YOU TURN THAT INTO TWO, THREE OR EVEN MORE WITHOUT RUNNING YOURSELF INTO THE GROUND OR TAKING YOUR EYE OFF THE BALL? WE SPOKE TO TWO BARBERSHOP VETERANS TO FIND OUT.

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Expanding to a second barber shop

‘YOU NEED TO HAVE BEEN RUNNING YOUR FIRST SHOP FOR AT LEAST THREE YEARS BEFORE EXPANDING’

Tony Resinato is owner of Jagged Edge Barbers, with his son Zak as managing director. The chain now comprises 13 barbershops employing around 50 people, including the pop-up Jagged Edge Pod. The business also runs a training academy in Bedford.

“I opened my first shop in 1975. I was quite happy with just the one for

several years, eventually selling it in 1979. I was a semi-professional DJ and so took a break from the industry. I then dealt with a few single shops, before opening a barbershop in Biggleswade and then Sandy in the early 2000s. But it wasn’t until the third shop, in Kempston, that we started to develop the whole corporate Jagged Edge image.

“The most important thing when you move from one shop to two is to make sure the first shop is well established and has staff who know what they need to be doing next. You don’t want them to feel they have been behind left on their own.

“I think you need to have been running your first shop for at least three to four years before you look to expand. Anything less than that is pointless. You need that time to get up and running, to make sure you have a good manager in place and to ensure you have a good, solid team.

“One thing making it hard within barbering at the moment is that, in my opinion, PAYE is pretty much dead now. It’s all about self-employed chair renting, though I suspect that is

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a bubble that is going to burst within the next three to four years.

“How you divide your time between your shops is a big issue; it is a massive responsibility to get right. In some respects, I think two shops is almost harder than five. As you expand, if need be you can make someone into a mobile manager who goes around the shops. You also have more scope to shuttle staff around accordingly. If you want to get bigger, you have to think bigger.”

‘YOU NEED TO THINK “WHY AM I DOING THIS?”, WHY THE FIRST BUSINESS HAS BEEN SUCCESSFUL AND WHETHER THAT CAN BE COPIED ELSEWHERE.’ Sam Prior is co-founder and managing director of MR. (formerly Mr Barbers).

The chain has 22 franchised shops. It is aiming to have added another 10 by the end of this year and in May opened its first training academy in Cambridge. Sam opened his first barbershop 20 years ago.

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Expanding to a second barber shop

“All our barbers are self-employed chair renters, and we’re based on a franchise model. Our franchisees are normally people who have trained and worked with us for many years.

That means there is normally always a barber you can trust who is in charge. We have franchise owners who now own three to four shops themselves.

“It is all about having a manager in each shop you can trust. You may perhaps have to move someone from an existing shop into a new one. It is very important to have the right person either in the shop you are leaving or the shop you are moving to.

“You also need to think ‘why am I doing this?’. It could be that your original business is doing so well that you simply need to expand.

Sometimes people just want to have a business with multiple locations.

Sometimes – and this probably the worst reason – it can be because they have maxed out their income on the first shop and need some more income.

“Whatever your reason, you need to know why the first business has been successful and whether that can be copied elsewhere.”

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DON’T FORGET ABOUT… • A joint music licence. “Music is very important in barbershops these days. In our latest shop we have a £1,000-2,000 sound system,” explains Tony Resinato.

But if you’re playing music you mustn’t forget you need a licence to do so. The good news is that the two licensing bodies that hairdressers and barbers used to have to wrestle with – PRS for Music and PPL – have recently launched a joint venture called PPL PRS Ltd so you only now need one licence to play music publicly.

The joint licence is called TheMusicLicence and replaces the two you used to need that covered recording rights and publishing rights respectively.

To find out more go to their joint website, pplprs.co.uk • Two alcohol licences. If you’re going to serve alcohol to clients (even if it’s complimentary) you will need not one but two licences from your local council: a premises licence and a personal licence. The premises

licence, as its name suggests, is to cover the fact your business is selling or supplying alcohol. The personal licence is to authorise you as the owner to do so.

You can normally apply online or by post from your local council.

• Guest Wi Fi. Clients increasingly expect Wi Fi when they visit your barbershop.

But it is unwise simply to allow them to connect directly to your router as, if they download illegal content, you may be liable, and it may also put internal systems at risk of being hacked.

If you have business broadband anyway, your provider may well be able to offer guest Wi Fi, so it is worth asking the question. But don’t forget there are also specialist providers.

• NHF membership! NHF membership, for all the salons you own, is an absolute must for peace of mind and business support.

Expanding to a second barber shop

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DON’T SCRIMP ON… • Your barbershop chair. “If you are going to be in it for the long haul, it is no good scrimping and having cheap chairs,” emphasises Sam Prior. “It is best to go for the best you can afford first time round. It is no good opening another shop if it is not quite right; you are only going to end up chasing your tail. Our oldest shop still has the same Belmont chairs – and it is has been going for 22 years.”

• Your scissors and clippers. “A good quality pair of scissors can be £300£400, with clippers and hairdryers much the same,” calculates Tony Resinato. “In fact, generally, the cost of setting up a shop has soared in recent years.

“But good quality equipment is worth it. People have such high standards and expectations these days. They all want to be putting their haircuts on to Instagram, Snapchat or Facebook. It is all about

self-promotion, clients and staff. In effect, you are talent spotting all the time,” he adds.

• Your technology. “People like, and increasingly expect, free Wi Fi, iPads and other modern technology,” says Tony. But don’t forget, technology is not just about the glamorous frontof-shop stuff. Your back-office salon or barbershop software system these days comes with a load of extra functionality that can help to manage team performance, reporting, cashflow, accounts, and stock.

• Your staff. “Especially if you’re expanding, it may be that you need to pay better money to get the excellent staff you need,” advises Tony. “As a boss, you have got to able completely to link with your staff. There is no point in saying ‘I am the boss, see you later’. Treat your staff from time to time – do days out, take them for something to eat, do some flexi time.”

GET UP to 20% OFF* YOUR

SALON AND BARBER SHOP INSURANCE

NHF members can get up to 20% off* salon and barber shop insurance with Salonsure.

As an NHF member you are entitled to a number of benefits including an exclusive discount on your salon insurance cover of up to 20%* Get a quote today

0800 458 8181

coversure.co.uk/nhf * Terms & conditions apply covesure.co.uk/nhf/terms

DON’T MISS THE NHF AT BARBER CONNECT! The NHF will be at this year’s Barber Connect in June, Europe’s largest barber exhibition.

Barber Connect will this year take place from Sunday 03 to Monday 04 June, at the International Centre in Telford.

The NHF team will be at stand A10, so come over and say hello!

To book your free tickets for Barber Connect, visit barberconnect.co.uk

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Female barbers

BREAKING THE MOULD HAIRDRESSING IS A GREAT CAREER FOR MEN AND WOMEN, SO WHY NOT BARBERING? WE SPOKE TO TWO FEMALE BARBERSHOP OWNERS THRIVING IN WHAT HAS TRADITIONALLY BEEN A MALE-DOMINATED INDUSTRY.

ive years ago, just three women entered the British Barbers’ Association Britain’s Best Shave competition. This year it will be 11, and last year Welsh barber Sophie Collins made it all the way to the final before being pipped at the post.

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This year’s final, co-run with male grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge, will be at Barber UK in Birmingham on 20 May. While the numbers remain small, it nevertheless provides a snapshot of how women are increasingly thriving within the once predominantly male world of barbering.

“I was inspired to go into barbering

by a family friend. She used to cut my hair and had men come to the house to have theirs cut too. She would often be covered in hair, and I just loved it,” explains Sophie, who has run Soph’s Barbershop in Llanbedr, Gwynedd, for the past four years.

“I trained as a hairdresser but then worked as an apprentice for a male barber. I love the traditional side of barbering and shaving; my barbershop is quite traditional, although you can of course get modern styles and fades if you want.

Men’s haircuts can often be more challenging to get right; they can be more creative, men are often happy for you to be more daring.

“Initially you would get some men who’d walk in, sit down and then be surprised their barber was a woman.

Some got a bit nervous about a woman doing their razor cut. But, in fact, the barber who trained me often used to press quite hard and leave a red mark whereas I am softer, which many of them like; they feel they can

IT USED TO BE THAT BARBERING WAS A VERY MALE-DOMINATED INDUSTRY; WOMEN WOULD NOT EVEN GO INTO A BARBERSHOP. BUT NOW WE’LL OFTEN GET MOTHERS COMING IN WITH THEIR SONS

RACHAEL BROWN: SOMETIMES MALE CLIENTS ACTUALLY PREFER A FEMALE BARBER

salonfocus | May/June 2018

Female barbers

relax,” recalls Sophie.

“When I was at college, the industry was dominated by males and you just never saw a female barber. Now there are a lot of people trying to get into barbering, men and women. It has become a really cool career – extremely fashionable – and people sometimes assume it is an easy industry without realising that to be successful you need to work really hard at it. It took me two years to become a barber, with a proper NVQ; so it doesn’t happen overnight.

“I enter competitions as I noticed not many women were doing so. Just because you’re a woman shouldn’t deter you. I had a lot of women round the stand watching me shave, which was amazing. It is great to be encouraging more women into barbering, as it is still such a maledominated job,” Sophie adds.

When it comes to making the step up to owning your own barbershop, Sophie’s advice is simple. “Go with your instinct. Don’t end up thinking ‘what if?’ and never doing it. But, at the same time, it has taken me four years to get where I am now, so you do have to give it time and work at it.

If you think you can do it, then do it, don’t hold yourself back.”

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SOPHIE COLLINS: MORE MEN AND WOMEN ARE SEEING BARBERING AS AN ATTRACTIVE CAREER, BUT IT IS NOT AN EASY OPTION

CREATIVITY AND CONSISTENCY

New Zealander Rachael Brown opened George & Brown in Newtownards, Northern Ireland, in 2016, but has worked in the industry since 2000.

“I sort of fell into barbering. I started off in hairdressing, went into barbering, then back to hairdressing and then finally returned to barbering. I find barbering is just so much more creative now; I love it. I love clipper-work and scissor-work,” she explains.

“I’d describe our barbershop as a family-friendly, retro, vintage. We have a very loyal client base and we pride ourselves on looking after everybody. Everybody gets a hot towel treatment at the end of their cut; we do beard trims, haircuts, skin fades and so on, everyone from age

six months to 90. We also have our own product range, including a beard oil, styling cream and clay.

“I don’t think my clients find it unusual their barbershop is run by two women; in fact some guys prefer it.

It used to be that barbering was a very male-dominated industry; women would not even go into a barbershop.

But now we’ll often get mothers coming in with their sons. I’ve never thought of hairdressing as just being for women, so why should barbering just be for men?” says Rachael.

“When it comes to owning a barbershop, for me the secret is just about being consistent, treating every client like they are your first one, from the moment you open your door to the time you close.

“Do your research, too. I have been in the industry for 20 years, I have travelled around a lot, but it was only in the last year-and-a-half that I took the plunge and opened my own shop.

It is important you know who you want to target and what you want your shop to be,” she adds.

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Gender neutral pricing

TIME TRAVEL

AS MALE SERVICES AND STYLES BECOME MORE COMPLEX, MORE AND MORE SALONS AND BARBERSHOPS ARE MOVING TO TIME-BASED “GENDER NEUTRAL” PRICING. THIS SHIFT IS NOT JUST ABOUT FAIRNESS AND EQUALITY, IT CAN ALSO WORK BETTER FOR STYLISTS AND POTENTIALLY MAKE YOUR BUSINESS MORE PROFITABLE.

wo years ago, the NHF carried out a survey of members which found that just 7% were totally “gender neutral” in their pricing.

Although half did price some services the same irrespective of gender, more than 80% admitted they had some different prices for men and women. Changing this was not top of their priority list, they added.

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But times and attitudes do seem to be changing. Big companies are now having to report publicly on gender pay gaps, leading to embarrassing headlines for some. The “Me Too” movement in the US has shone a

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sharp spotlight on male harassment and bullying.

Within hairdressing and barbering, demand for male grooming is booming, many men are now wearing their hair longer while, conversely, shorter styles are becoming more popular with many women.

All this, combined with growing recognition and acceptance of "gender fluidity”, is encouraging more and more salons to rethink how they price their services, with price lists solely based around time, hair length or stylist experience becoming more popular.

We spoke to five members who either have moved or are in the process of moving their salon to gender neutral pricing about how and why they made the change.

Gender neutral pricing

‘WE RECOGNISE THIS IS SOMETHING WE’RE GOING TO NEED TO COMMUNICATE. IF WE END UP LOSING A FEW GENTS BECAUSE OF IT, SO BE IT. BUT THIS IS SOMETHING I FEEL REALLY PASSIONATE ABOUT.’

Sarah Dixon runs Mirror Mirror Hair & Beauty in Milnthorpe in the Lake District. The salon will be celebrating its tenth anniversary in August

“At the moment, we have a separate price list for men and women, priced by service. Until a couple of years ago I hadn’t really thought much about it, but things have been changing so massively.

“To mark the anniversary, we’re completely refurbishing the salon, and not just the décor. We’re also changing our ethos, the way we generate money, and part of this will be by switching to gender neutral pricing.

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“It is not just about equality, although that is of course important, it is also about not disadvantaging stylists if a male client takes longer than the price is worth. The price for men and women has varied dramatically – there’s probably on average about a £10 difference between the two – but why should women have to pay more?

“The new pricing structure will be based around both time, length of hair and type of service, and the seniority or experience of the stylist.

For example, if you have a short cut with clippers or a short cut with scissors that will be one price. Or a cut and blow dry will have a single price, unless the client has very long or thick hair. But if they have, say, a bob, it will cost less because it will take less time.

“We recognise this is something we’re going to be need to communicate. We’re doing a gender neutral photoshoot and, of course, we’re talking to clients about it. If we end up losing a few gents because of it, so be it. But this is something I feel really passionate about.”

MIRROR MIRROR HAIR & BEAUTY IN THE LAKE DISTRICT

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Gender neutral pricing

‘WE DID HAVE TO TRANSITION FROM SOME OF OUR EXISTING CLIENTELE, SOME OF WHOM WERE BEING CHARGED A VERY LOW AMOUNT. BUT WHEN YOU HAVE A VISION AND ETHOS, YOU HAVE TO STICK TO IT’

Adam Driscoll-Price and husband Ben have run Price & Driscoll in Clevedon, north Somerset, since April last year, and employ eight staff

“When we took over the salon it had been going for about 40 years; it was a very well-established but also a very traditional salon. But from the get-go we’ve been gender neutral, as it is something my husband Ben and I feel very strongly about.

“We explain our ethos on the front page of our website, in our marketing material, on our Facebook page. No matter what your sex, or how you identify in terms of gender, it is purely about the hair. It is also something our brands, Goldwell and KMS, are strongly behind.

“We have pitched ourselves as a boutique, high-end salon experience, so the price does reflect that. But our

services are priced totally according to hair length and time required rather than by your gender.

“We did have to transition from some of our existing clientele, some of whom were being charged a very low amount for the service. So we did lose some clients. But when you have a vision and ethos, you have to stick to it.

“But in the time that we’ve opened we’ve doubled our staff and had a lot of new clients wanting to try us out, many of whom, thankfully, have stayed. In fact, we have a seven-eight week return rate, compared around a 10-week rate for the industry as a whole.”

‘IT USED TO BE THAT WOMEN WOULD NORMALLY TAKE LONGER AND USE MORE PRODUCT, BUT THAT IS LESS AND LESS THE CASE’ Joey Altomonte and brother Luigi have run Fratelli Hair in Cambridge since 2014. The salon is divided into a ladies area and a separate bespoke men’s barbering area, and employs nine members of staff

“Things have changed really quickly.

Many women are nowadays going for shorter styles while more men are keeping their hair longer. It used to

PRICE & DRISCOLL IN NORTH SOMERSET

salonfocus | May/June 2018

Gender neutral pricing

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ONE OF THE CHAPEL CHAIN OF SALONS

be that women would normally take longer and use more product, but that is less and less the case.

“Some men’s haircuts nowadays can take longer to do than women's, so why should a woman be paying more than a man? We even had men who questioned why it was women who were paying more.

“From 01 April we changed to a gender neutral pricing structure. But we didn’t just want to put our prices up. It used to be that everyone, male, female or child, got a basic one-hour appointment, based on the stylist. So, for a cut, wash and blow dry based on me doing it that would have been £58, £46 and £30, with colour always simply based on timing.

“What we’re doing now is one hour is still £58 but we’ve introduced a 45-minute appointment at £44.50, depending on hair length. Some ladies, especially if they have short hair, prefer to go for that, but some men actually prefer to stay for the hour. There is also a 30-minute option for regular clients, but that has to be pre-approved with the stylist, as we don’t want to be lowering our quality in any way.

“In terms of communication to clients, it is simply about explaining that everything is completely timebased now, irrespective of gender or gender identity. You are free to come to us and take the time you need.

“It has also given the stylists more freedom. We used to be very strict about the one-hour appointment.

But that meant if, say, the stylist was finished in half an hour they were having to find ways to stretch things out when they could have been with a new client. Or if someone had long or thick hair and it took an hour-and-half, it was costing them.

Now everything can be much better tailored to the individual.

“Every new client must have an hour to allow us to learn about them, their hair and what they like. But one important element is you only pay for what you have booked. So if you’re booked for an hour but for some reason it takes an hour-and-a-half, that is our fault for not booking it or doing the consultation properly.

“Making this change has meant a lot of changes beyond just the pricing. We’ve had to change our logo and branding because it used to say ‘Ladies and Men’s Hair Salon’. We’ve had to adjust our salon software and revisit our business plan.

“But it is the right thing to do, as well as allowing our stylists to use their time better. We are a very busy salon. So if we can create some space without lowering our standards, that is also positive. It is not the main reason for doing this, but it is an additional benefit.”

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Gender neutral pricing

‘WE PROVIDE EXCELLENT VALUE FOR MONEY FOR EVERYONE, FOR ALL GENDERS, SO WHY NOT HAVE A PRICING STRUCTURE THAT REFLECTS THAT?’ Sally Coles-Robertson is managing director of Sisu Salon in Sandbach, Cheshire. The salon offers hair, beauty and barbering, including male treatments, employs seven staff and has an Investors in People award

“Gents nowadays are having many more services – waves, oils, grooming, beard trims and so on. But they are not charged the same, generally their services will be cheaper.

“Take a gents’ eyebrow waxing or monobrow. For a women it might take 30 seconds. But for a guy with thicker and stronger hair, it could take quite a lot longer, yet previously the lady was being charged more, which made no sense. A man or a child will often take as long to do as a woman, and use the same amount of product.

“So, from 01 April, we switched to pricing solely based on time and stylists’ experience. There has been some banter about it from some men but we’re in an affluent area, we’re very committed to training and improving all the time, we provide an excellent, high-quality service and have a 96% to 98% retention rate, and this is just the right thing to do.

“We provide excellent value for money for everyone, for all genders, so why not have a pricing structure that reflects that?”

THE TEAM AT SISU SALON IN CHESHIRE

salonfocus | May/June 2018

‘CHARGING BY TIME ALLOWS A STYLIST TO FOCUS ON DOING THE BEST THEY CAN; IT GIVES THEM THE CREATIVE FREEDOM TO DO WHAT THEY THINK IS RIGHT FOR THE CLIENT’

Toby Dicker is founder of The Chapel group of salons. The group comprises four salons in Islington, Tunbridge Wells, Sevenoaks and Verbier in Switzerland.

The chain has been gender neutral in its pricing since opening in 1997

“It tends to be the thing consumers fear most about the salon experience: not knowing what they are going to get charged at the end, with additional services adding up to more than their expectations.

People want to understand what they’re paying for before they come in. But gender neutral pricing is also important in terms of sending out a message about what you stand for, rather than just following the crowd.

“We have definitely seen an uplift in the number of salons doing this, pricing by time rather than gender.

When you change anything it can take a while to bed down, but generally in our experience people do view this favourably.

“We’ve been doing it so long now it is well-understood by clients. It makes business forecasting easier, too. I cannot see any downside; I am confident it is the right thing to be doing.

“For me, though, it is not just about the pricing side of it. Charging by time allows a stylist simply to focus on doing the best they can; it gives them the creative freedom to do what they think is right for the client.

They don’t have to worry about what they’re charging or feeling under pressure about their commission because it is has all been pre-booked.

It takes the responsibility for that off the stylist’s shoulders.”

HELPING HAIRDRESSERS DAY By joining our ONE DAY of fundraising you will be helping your fellow hairdressers in need here in the UK. Our theme is purple, so get creative and raise much needed funds where every penny goes directly to help those who need it most.

Read the stories of the hairdressers and their families that we help on our website.

ONE DAY CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE

FRIDAY 29th JUNE 2018 Download our FREE fundraising pack at thehairdresserscharity.org or call 01234 831 888

Company No: 11085412 | Registered Charity in England & Wales No: 1166298

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The NHF’s Photographic Stylist of the Year

LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION THE WINNERS FROM LAST YEAR’S NHF PHOTOGRAPHIC STYLIST OF THE YEAR HAD THE OPPORTUNITY TO WORK ON A PHOTOSHOOT IN FEBRUARY RUN BY THE SPONSOR OF THE COMPETITION, UNITE. HERE IS A SELECTION OF BACKSTAGE SHOTS, MOSTLY TAKEN BY NHF VICE PRESIDENT IAN EGERTON, FROM WHAT WAS AN INSPIRATIONAL EXPERIENCE.

salonfocus | May/June 2018

The NHF’s Photographic Stylist of the Year

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ROBERTO AGUILAR

UNITE HAIR TEAM

THE FIVE WINNERS

Creative director: Gary Baker Photographer: Roberto Aguilar Production/make-up: Jenny Morrell Additional make-up: Hannah Davies Styling: Raspberry Jam Studio Photography assistant: Agne Monti

James Beaumont, Allure, Exmouth Royston Blythe, Royston Blythe, Wolverhampton* Liberty Clark, Franceso Group, Cheltenham Caroline Sanderson, Ego Hair Design, Inverness Melissa Timperley, Melissa Timperley Salons, Manchester

*Royston was unable to attend the photoshoot

May/June 2018 | salonfocus

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Health, safety and hygiene

AVOID THE RATS OR MICE IN YOUR SALON CAN BE SERIOUSLY BAD NEWS. THEY CAN CAUSE DAMAGE, BE A HEALTH HAZARD AND SHATTER YOUR LOCAL REPUTATION. DAVID CROSS EXPLAINS HOW NOT TO GET CAUGHT OUT.

rodent scurrying across the floor is not a good look for any business. This is especially true for hair and beauty businesses operating in a hugely competitive environment where any negative experience can quickly send a client down the high street to a rival.

A

However, rodent activity in salons is not unusual. In fact, hair and beauty salons and barbershops can often be attractive destinations for both rats and mice.

Why is this? Salons and barbershops are often warm, which rats and mice like. Your cupboards or storerooms can offer convenient shelter.

HAIR FOR NESTING

There may be food or crumbs readily available, whether it’s that plate of biscuits by the tea and coffee or a back-of-salon food and drink preparation area. Rats and mice also like strands of human hair, which they will often use to make their nests nice and cosy for their young.

If you’re located within a parade of shops on a high street it can be difficult to keep rodents at bay, especially if there are fast-food outlets nearby.

Mice can fit through holes no bigger than the width of a biro. Rats, meanwhile, can enter premises through drains, and have even been known to use toilet pipes to get into buildings. On top of all this, rodents are extremely difficult pests to

salonfocus | May/June 2018

control. A mouse only needs three grams of food per day, and is capable of eating from up to 70 different food sources in 24 hours.

The damage to your business can

be significant. There is, first, the risk of direct damage to equipment and your premises. In extreme circumstances, rodent activity can even force salons to close while

Health, safety and hygiene

35

E RAT RACE treatment is carried out to control or remove the infestation.

Possibly even more significantly, there is the indirect damage to your reputation that rats and mice can bring. Negative client reviews, or even just local word of mouth, can quickly lead to a loss of revenue and, once lost, reputation is hard to claw back.

PREVENTATIVE MEASURES

But there are things salon owners and managers can do to spot signs of any activity, as well as preventative measures you can put in place to help keep rodents out.

The first thing is to know the signs you may have a problem. Here are five things to look out for: 1) Smell and sound. Rats and mice have a very strong ammonia smell.

On top of this; rodents are often noisy, making audible scrabbling noises as they move around premises.

2) Droppings. Rats excrete about 40 dark, pellet-shaped droppings per day, which are up to 14mm long. Mice can produce 80 oval-shaped droppings, which are typically 5mm long.

3) Smears. Rodents use established routes along skirting boards and

walls due to their poor eyesight.

You may notice grease marks where rodents brush up against your walls and surfaces.

4) Footprints: Rats can leave foot and tail marks in dusty, less-used areas of your premises. Shining a strong torch at a low angle should reveal tracks clearly. To establish if an infestation is active, sprinkle fine flour or talc along a small stretch of floor near the footprints and check for fresh tracks the next day.

5) Damage: Rodents gnaw on anything to keep their teeth at a manageable size. This includes electric cables, which is perhaps the most dangerous aspect of an infestation, as it causes a fire hazard, while also being very difficult to spot.

You might not think one mouse sighting demands immediate attention. But rats and mice breed fast, and a small problem can quickly escalate if left untreated. Failing to nip things in the bud can create the conditions for a full-scale infestation.

Here are four things you can do: 1) Cut out clutter and remove potential entry points. Move storage

away from walls where possible and remember less clutter means fewer places for rodents to hide. Seal holes in the outside of the property with wire wool, caulk, metal kick plates or cement. Check drains regularly to ensure they aren’t damaged.

2) Remove sources of food. The simple step of ensuring food and waste is properly sealed and stored can make a big difference. Make sure you are using strong plastic or metal containers for waste, so rodents are not attracted to any smells.

3) Employee education. There are online resources available (such as our Rentokil myLearning course) that can educate your team on the basics of pest control.

4) Get in expert help. Once you have an infestation, it is often going to be a case of getting in expert pest control specialists to deal with it quickly and thoroughly. Pest controllers can also offer advice on the best methods of pest control and which traps or treatments are appropriate.

David Cross is head of the technical training academy at Rentokil Pest Control

May/June 2018 | salonfocus

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Calculating holiday pay

CALCULATING HOLIDAY PAY WORKING OUT HOW MUCH ANNUAL LEAVE YOUR STAFF ARE ENTITLED TO CAN BE TRICKY, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU HAVE TO TAKE INTO ACCOUNT FACTORS SUCH AS PART-TIME WORKING, MATERNITY LEAVE AND SICK LEAVE. WITH SUMMER ON THE WAY, NOW IS A GOOD TIME TO GET CLEAR IN YOUR HEAD WHERE YOU STAND.

e all look forward to holidays or time off. But, as a salon and barbershop owner, you need to be completely clear and consistent about what holiday or leave your team members are legally entitled to, and how to manage requests for such time off.

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The NHF’s membership team gives expert advice about holiday entitlement to hundreds of members every year. We can make sure you stay within the law while keeping your staff happy and your business running smoothly.

salonfocus | May/June 2018

UNDERSTANDING THE BASICS

“Every employee in the UK is entitled to paid holiday, and full-time employees are legally entitled to a minimum of 5.6 weeks’ paid annual leave,” explains NHF chief executive Hilary Hall.

“So, a stylist, barber or beauty therapist working five days a week should get at least 28 days’ paid leave.

This is worked out by multiplying five days by 5.6 weeks (5 x 5.6), which gives 28 days holiday,” she adds.

CALCULATING PART-TIME EMPLOYEES

Working out the annual leave entitlement of employees who

work part-time can seem daunting but, in fact, you can use the same straightforward calculation, explains Hilary.

“Your part-time employees will also be entitled to 5.6 weeks of paid holiday each year – but this will be a pro rata depending on how many hours/days they work each week.

“For example, for someone who works for you three days a week, multiply three days by 5.6 (3 x 5.6).

This works out as 16.8 days a year annual leave,” she says.

However, you can’t round down annual leave entitlement, only make it to the nearest half day. So, in reality, this employee would be entitled to 17 days.

Calculating holiday pay

37

BANK HOLIDAYS EXPLAINED

LEAVE FOR NEW STAFF

Bank holidays can be a bit confusing when it comes to working out annual leave. But, says Hilary, there are a couple of golden rules that should be able to help: “The first thing to understand when it comes to bank holidays is that employers can choose whether or not to include bank holidays as part of their employees’ 28 days’ entitlement,” she explains.

However, it is important to understand that employees are not automatically entitled to take bank holidays off as paid leave (and this includes Christmas and Easter).

“In practice, if you normally open on Good Friday, for example, your staff are not entitled by law to take this day off,” says Hilary. “You can choose to give them a day’s annual leave if they request it, but you are not obliged to do so.”

Importantly, however, if you do choose to allow them to take the day off, this must not reduce their overall holiday entitlement to below the 5.6 weeks minimum (or pro rata for parttime employees).

A further important point, emphasises Hilary, is that you cannot ask employees to take annual leave on a day they are not normally contracted to work.

This is governed by another simple rule. New employees are entitled to annual leave, including while they are on probation, right from day one.

So, depending on when your new employee starts, you may need to calculate their annual leave for the year on a pro rata basis.

FIND OUT MORE NHF members can call the membership team for free expert help with annual leave entitlement.

Speak to us on 01234 831965.

ANNUAL LEAVE AND MATERNITY LEAVE

The key thing to remember here is that maternity leave cannot be taken at the same time as annual leave.

They must be treated separately.

“This means that someone on maternity leave will continue to build up their holiday entitlement in the same way as if they were at work,” explains Hilary.

ANNUAL LEAVE AND SICK LEAVE

It is very important to recognise that you cannot force an employee to take annual leave instead of sick leave.

Much as with maternity leave, their annual leave will continue to build up while they are off sick.

FIND OUT MORE Don’t forget, NHF members have access to our completely free 24/7, 365-days-a-year legal helpline for help with a wide range of employment issues, from calculating holiday entitlement and maternity leave, to contracts and apprenticeship agreements, absence management, redundancy, and managing staff performance.

Find out more at nhf.info

FIND OUT MORE NHF members benefit from access to free contracts, apprenticeship agreements and staff handbooks. The staff handbook clearly sets out what employees can expect in relation to annual leave. You can download these resources from nhf.info/shop

IF NOTHING ELSE READ THIS • All employees are entitled to paid holiday • This includes new and part-time staff • Bank holidays can be included within annual entitlement

• However, employees are not entitled to take off bank holidays • Annual leave cannot be taken at the same time as maternity or sick

leave, they must be treated separately • If in doubt, speak to the NHF membership (on 01234 831965) for expert help

May/June 2018 | salonfocus

38

Events

GET WINNING

THIS MONTH SEES THE LAUNCH OF THE NHF’S NATIONAL PROGRAMME OF COMPETITIONS AND AWARDS, ALL OF WHICH WILL BE HELD DURING THE SECOND HALF OF 2018.

The July-August edition of salonfocus will bring you the full rundown of what’s happening and what to look out for. But here is a taster of what you can expect.

THE NHF BUSINESS AWARDS Last year’s debut NHF Business Awards proved a huge hit, and will be returning for 2018. Here are the dates you need to note: Entries open: Tuesday 01 May Entries close: Friday 27 July Judging: Monday 13 August Finalists announced: Thursday 16 August Awards event: Sunday 04 November, Manchester Categories for 2018 will include: • Best independent hair or beauty salon • Best independent barbershop or male grooming business • Best group of businesses • Best new business • Best client experience • Best community support • Best apprentice • Best front of house • Best innovation You can enter by going to nhf. info/nhfbusinessawards BRITAIN’S BEST An established highlight of the hairdressing calendar, the

salonfocus | May/June 2018

NHF’s renowned national floor competition Britain’s Best will open for entries on 14 May. Categories for 2018 will include • Male fashion look (open to all) • Female fashion look (open to all) • Hair up (open to all) • Total look (open to all) • Fantasy (open to all) For further information on the date and venue, visit nhf.info/britainsbest PHOTOGRAPHIC STYLIST OF THE YEAR The NHF’s prestigious and popular photographic competition will launch next month (01 June), with entries closing on 07 September.

Categories for 2018 will include: • Category 1 - Open to all (nonprofessional photography) Male and Female Fashion Look • Category 2 - Open to all (professional photography) Male and Female Fashion Look • Category 3 - Open to all (professional photography) Male and Female Fashion Look – Collection You will be able to enter here: nhf.info/photographic

BOOKINGS Anyone interested in attending events should go to nhf.info/events Bookings can also be made by emailing events@nhf.info or contacting the NHF team on 01234 831965

BUSINESS DAY EVENTS (10.30AM-4PM) PLAN YOUR TWELVEWEEK BUSINESS BOOSTING WORKOUT 9 July – Cardiff

CREATIVE EVENING EVENTS (7PM-9.30PM) BARBER DEMO WITH VIK RIAT 21 May – London MALE GROOMING DEMO 25 June – Sheffield

BUSINESS EVENING EVENTS (7PM-9.30PM) USING SOCIAL MEDIA TO GROW YOUR BUSINESS 14 May – Loughborough 18 June – Worcester IMPROVING YOUR PROFITS 14 May – Cambridge AN EVENING WITH RICHARD & HELLEN WARD 21 May – Bournemouth PHOTOGRAPHY FOR SOCIAL MEDIA 04 June – Middlesbrough 25 June – Newark IMPROVING YOUR RETAIL SALES 04 June – Preston 09 July – Ipswich COMMUNICATING ZOO STYLE 9 July – Manchester

REGIONAL COMPETITIONS WALES FINEST 20 May – Cardiff Events are available for booking via nhf.info/events Don’t forget, 25 May is “GDPR Day”, or the day the tough new General Data Protection Regulation European Union law will come into force. Check out page 14 for your last-minute checklist.

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