Salonfocus Summer 2022 by National Hair & Beauty Federation

TH E ES SENTIAL M AGA ZI N E FO R SALO N OWN ERS

SUMMER 2022

It’s time to forget traditional gender roles and ensure the best person for the job

P24: BRANDING Discover the unique voice of your business to help it thrive

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P27: ANXIETY Rolling out the red carpet for vulnerable and nervous clients

P32: DIGITAL SHAMING How to control the impact of negative online reviews

P41: STANDARDS Reﬁning and improving your workplace culture, one step at a time

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contents

THE CUT 5

Hello and welcome Chief executive Richard Lambert talks about attracting and retaining a skilled workforce

The 12 things you need to know this issue From ﬁnancial and stafﬁng issues to supporting homelessness and lobbying politicians

24 Power of branding

THE BUSINESS 20 Stereotypes Times are changing: is your business a welcoming place to those who don't conform to gender binaries?

COV STORER Y

How ﬁnding and reﬁning your brand identity is crucial to letting your business thrive

44 Mood board

Beautiful bridal styling

27 Vulnerable clients After Covid-19, how can you coax anxious clients back and set their minds at ease?

32 Media

THE INSPIRATION

Stay in control of the negative impact of critical or malicious social media reviews or press

46 What’s trending From soaring vegan make-up sales to festival inspiration

48 How to... Be more gender inclusive

THE END

36 Payment terminals With a bewildering array of card readers, providers and payment plans, what's best for you?

50 60 seconds with... Brooke Evans, salon owner, stylist and host of the NHBF’s new podcast

38 Social media trends How Facebook can build client loyalty, showcase your skills and work as your shop window to the world

41 Raising standards A progressive improvement of quality is the best and most sustainable way to ensure you maximise your potential

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NEW SUPER LUXE RECYCLED METAL STORAGE TIN & Additional Colour Sleeves Available Seperately

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HELLO A ND W ELCOME T HE CU T

NHBF CHIEF EXECUTIVE The magazine of the National Hair & Beauty Federation

IT'S IMPORTANT TO FOCUS ON IMPROVING WORKPLACE CULTURE

RICHARD LAMBERT

THE NHBF One Abbey Court Fraser Road Priory Business Park Bedford MK44 3WH 01234 831965 nhbf.co.uk sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk

CHIEF EXECUTIVE Richard Lambert

DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Tori Priestley tori.priestley@nhbf.co.uk 01234 834386

EDITORIAL Editor Aviva Attias aviva@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk Assistant editor Hollie Ewers Content sub-editors James Hundleby, Kate Bennett

DESIGN Senior designer Seija Tikkis McPhail Picture researcher Claire Echavarry

ADVERTISING advertising@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk 020 7880 6230

PRODUCTION Production director Jane Easterman Account director Emma Godfrey emma@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk

PRINTER Manson Group, St Albans

COVER ILLUSTRATION Getty / iStock

© The NHBF 2022 All views expressed in salonfocus are not necessarily those of the NHBF. All efforts have been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information published in salonfocus. However, the publisher accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies or errors and omissions in the information produced in this publication. No information contained in this publication may be used or reproduced without the prior permission of the NHBF. Recycle your magazine’s plastic wrap. Check your local LDPE facilities to ﬁnd out how.

ith ‘normal’ life resuming, what challenges remain for the industry? The latest NHBF quarterly survey reveals that levels of trade and confidence are up and comparable to July 2021. Yet the more confident signs of recovery seen last September have not emerged. You can see why and read the highlights on page 6. Crucial to the industry’s development is attracting and retaining a skilled workforce. Yet a recent NHBF report identified a skills crisis (as well as potential solutions). See more on page 13 and 15. With all this in mind, and placing Members’ needs at the forefront as always, the NHBF will be launching a new campaign called Shine – Your Brighter Future. The programme will aim to inspire and equip Members to improve every aspect of their business, especially supporting those who need it most. It will include online training, lobbying and a brand-new empowering podcast. Find more details on page 9. To help keep standards high and public perceptions positive, it’s important to focus on improving workplace culture, as you’ll discover

on page 41. It's also vital to build your brand to help your business thrive, as demonstrated on page 24. And don’t forget the power of Facebook (see page 38) in promoting your work. Plus, the expert insight on page 32 will help you manage any negative reviews before they spiral. It’s important to remember that, although restrictions liberalise at pace, the pandemic isn’t over – and vulnerable clients may feel even more anxious at this time. On page 27, you can arm yourself with the know-how to make everyone welcome. Talking of inclusivity, on page 20 we hear from trailblazers smashing stereotypes in the industry. They share how you can ensure you’re in the area you want to work in and how to create the right environment for all to thrive, whatever their gender and whatever societal norms may have dictated in the past. Plus, ﬁnd tips on page 48 to help make your business gender inclusive. Here’s to a brighter future for the industry. The NHBF is here to support you every step of the way.

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TH E CU T SE CTO R S U RVE Y

THE 6

The 12 things you need to know this issue...

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S ECTOR S URVEY T HE CU T

STATE OF THE INDUSTRY The NHBF’s latest quarterly survey found that while levels of trade and conﬁdence are up and at a similar point as July 2021, there is not yet the more conﬁdent sign of recovery that was seen in September. Here’s a look at the responses.

Finances

57%

44% of the 913 respondents are breaking even, with 30% making a small or good proﬁt (up from 19%) and 27% (down from 40%) either making a small or substantial loss 43% have raised their prices over the last three months. A further 58% will do so over the next three months Reliance on external support has reduced but is still high at 58% with businesses either partially or completely reliant on government support 42% of businesses are carrying debt (down from 54% in January). 63% say it will take more than two years to clear.

of businesses are conﬁdent of their survival

43% IMAGE: ISTOCK

Stafﬁng of respondents raised their prices over the last three months

Recruitment intentions are static, and in the next three months: 17% of businesses are deﬁnitely or likely to take on new staff

THE NHBF VIEW: NHBF chief executive Richard Lambert says: ‘We are grateful for all the government support provided to the sector to date. However, continued support from each national government is needed through the recovery phase, particularly in the form of incentives for apprenticeships to fuel the future talent pipeline of the personal care sector. With this targeted support, the sector will be in a position to play a key role in sustainable economic recovery, wellbeing and thriving high streets.’

(up from 15% in January and down from 27% in September) 16% have cut back on apprentices (18% in January) and only 9% were deﬁnitely or likely to take on apprentices.

Future Business conﬁdence has strengthened slightly: 57% are conﬁdent of their survival (up from 40% in January but not as high as 63% in September), however, 38% are unsure that they will survive over the next six months 38% say they intend to grow their business (down from 42%), 44% are to remain the same size and 17% are planning to downsize or hand it over.

The NHBF is calling for: An increase in the 50% discount on business rates for 2022-23 and flexibility on repayments of the Coronavirus Business Interruption Loan Scheme and Bounce Back loans. The reintroduction of the Job Retention Bonus (£1000 per eligible employee) through to the autumn of 2022, and restraint on further increases to the National Minimum Wage and apprenticeship rate until such time as the sector can continue its recovery. More attractive apprenticeship incentives to employers, focusing on the development of affordable apprenticeship schemes specifically for small businesses to make it more financially viable for them. Read the full results of the survey at nhbf.co.uk/industrystats-april22

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TH E CU T I N S P IR AT IO N

COLOUR TIPS

Shades of great

Looking to perfect your colour ttechniques? h Harriet Stokes, independent colourist, educator and co-founder of Humankind hair, shares insight into one of her striking Instagram transformations.

Sometimes it can be hard to know where to start and what to consider when it comes to a dark-tolight balayage transformation: knowing what technique to use, how to get maximum lift and managing your clients’ expectations. The consultation is the most important part of the whole service for me; it’s where I really spend time getting to understand my client and their vision. I always ask my clients to bring in pictures of colours they both like and dislike to make sure we’re always on the same page.

Surface paint each section, layering up the bleach to look like an iced wedding cake, and ere remembering that where the bleach is whiter it’ll be lighter.

L: T GOA CLIEN opper/ c Light ibe, low v y peach tenance n i a l m pactfu and im ment place

Be purposeful with placement and remember that when you’re surface painting, the natural hair behind the surface is what ge keeps freehand balayage looking natural and sun-kissed. To create maximum lightness I painted each section without leaving any hair out and made sure I saturated the ends for maximum lift.

How I did it

Mix up L’Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio 7 with 40 vol. Mixing ratio 1:2.

When doing freehand balayage and leaving it to process in open air, you’ll always lose a level of lift. It’s important

to remember this when discussing with your client what’s possible and to manage your own expectations.

To create a soft, understated, peachy vibe that isn’t too bright, mix a violet tone into the copper toner mix. I used L’Oréal Professional Dia Light 8,43 + 9,02 with 9 vol.

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NEWS T HE CU T Salon group Medusa has announced a new fertility policy: any team member undergoing fertility treatment will be offered ﬂexible working and two weeks’ full pay, inspired by the managing director’s recent experience. Would you consider this?

NHBF NEWS

New podcast in the spotlight

The best locations to open a barbershop or hair salon are Milton Keynes and Oxford, according to a report based on Google searches per listing, revealing higher demand than supply in both areas.

The NHBF has launched its exclusive Members-only podcast, NHBF Shines On. Hosted by one of the industry’s fastest-rising stars Brooke Evans (see page 50 for an interview), Shines On will take you through the highs and lows of working in the hair and beauty industry, and offer advice on how to build your salon or barbershop, ﬁnd the perfect team and deliver the best

experience for your customers. The podcast shines a light on some of the tough times and

celebrates people’s successes that make the rest of the world feel beautiful. To access an exclusive private feed to hear the full episodes with guests such as Mark Woolley, Casey Coleman, Keri Blue and Vivienne Johns, visit nhbf.co.uk/ shines-on

NHBF NEWS

IMAGES: GETTY / ISTOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK

YOUR BRIGHTER FUTURE It’s been tough for the hair, beauty and barbering industry during the pandemic – support was needed then, and continues to be needed due to the soaring cost of living, energy prices and inﬂation. We want to empower Members and the hair and beauty industry to shine while building a brighter future. Drawing on our experience and knowledge, the NHBF will launch a programme to inspire and help Members improve every aspect of their business, providing practical and relevant support. ● Becoming your best: - Empowering stories of resilience on the NHBF Shines On podcast. - Personal and professional development through online training, providing practical skills to support your team in the current environment.

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SHINE

WHAT’S HOT, WHAT’S NOT

GET MORE

● Connection and voice: YOUR - Raise BRIGHTER FUTURE awareness of the skills crisis through public and political lobbying. - Hosting roadshows that allow you to meet NHBF representatives and other Members, share your views and hear about the state of the industry. ● Quality and standards: - Online learning to help Members develop their business and raise standards. WITH

Go to nhbf.info or your fortnightly NHBF Member newsletter to ﬁnd out the latest news and Member beneﬁts.

The pandemic has made 35% of the UK more conscious of the cleanliness of their beauty tools such as tweezers and nail clippers – but 47% don’t clean them after nts each use! Do you educate clients on tool cleaning?

Negative hair terms such as ‘mousy’ and ‘lifeless’ impact women’s self-esteem, leaving them self-conscious and offended, according to a recent study. What are your thoughts on these terms? Do you use them?

Over 50 UK organisations, including The Body Shop, have issued an open letter to the government calling for a ban on neonicotinoids (insecticides that can kill bees).

Nine out of 10 British women aged 35+ are unhappy with their skin. A ssurvey revealed respondents were consc conscious of dryness (60%), dullness (42% (42%), dark eye circles (35%), ﬁne lines (27 (27%), uneven skin tone (27%), redness ((27%), and itchy skin (26%).

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TH E CU T Q&A

MEET THE INFLUENCER

ABIGAIL JAMES

AKA the Queen of Skin and the Priestess of Face Massage, Abigail is the award-winning aesthetician, skincare and wellbeing expert who came eighth in the NHBF’s Top 100 Inﬂuencers list for 2021.

I embraced it and learned lots about business. But after I got married and had my daughter, I took time out and during that period a beauty therapist friend would paint my nails or give me a facial. I just loved how it made me feel and the mental beneﬁts I got from it. So, when my daughter was about two, I started night college and got my NVQ level 2 in beauty therapy, and my journey began from there.

WHAT SETS YOU APART IN THE INDUSTRY? HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT COMING EIGHTH? I was surprised, ﬂattered and pleased. When you’re creating content and putting it out there you hope people will enjoy and like it, but you never know, so I was very pleased to have my hard work recognised.

DO YOU RECOGNISE YOURSELF AS AN ‘INFLUENCER’? I’m only now beginning to feel like an inﬂuencer – my focus has always been on treatment. My YouTube following grew very organically, but during lockdown I couldn’t physically be with clients, so I wanted to support my clients people at home. I started posting more content and an giving it proper thought So it’s only really been and structure. struct Covid-19 pandemic onwards from the C say I see myself as an inﬂuencer. that I’d sa th

WHO INFLUENCES INFLU YOU? I love lo ove what wha Dr Rangan Chatterjee (@drchatterjee) puts out about (@ @dr d chatt wellbeing well llbeing and healthcare. I actually listen or read his posts. stop op to lis

DO YOU FFEEL A RESPONSIBILITY YOU FOLLOWERS? TO YOUR Yes, d Yes, deﬁnitely. Posts on our feed ccan ca n eeither impact us in a positive way w wa y or a negative way. And ideally I don’t don want to impact somebody in n a negative way. I want to put pu ut out content that’s going to motivate, share knowledge or m o make ma someone smile. ma

HHOW DID YOU GET INTO TTHE INDUSTRY? I originally went into the family frozen food business – even at the age of 12, I was helping to pack ﬁsh.

I’m a veteran in the facialist industry and face massage is my niche. I have also always banged on about the 360° of looking after skin – it’s about diet, nutrition, lifestyle and mental health as well as products and treatments.

WHAT INSPIRED YOUR NEW BOOK? My ﬁrst and most viewed video on YouTube is about face massage and has lots of comments from people who say they have beneﬁted from doing it regularly. So that inspired me, as well as the results achieved by clients and myself when face massage, wellbeing, nutrition and knowledge are incorporated into a four-week plan.

WHAT WILL BE BIG IN BEAUTY IN 2022? Microneedling is really gaining in popularity as people get more confident about it. I have clients who love the results so much that they’re skipping some of their relaxing facials for more intense microneedling ones. Nominate your favourite hair or beauty influencer in the 2022 Top 100 Influencers List at nhbf.co.uk/top-100-influencers

STATS NHBF rating: 8/100 YouTube subscribers: 218k Most watched YouTube video: 6m+ views IG handle: @abigailjames1 TT handle: @abigailjameslondon

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N EWS T HE CU T

TRY THESE TOP TIPS Tom Purser, head of guidance, volunteering and campaigns guidance at the National Autistic Society

BARBERING

Cuts with compassion Barnsley barber Malaz Jak tells us about his approach to children with additional needs.

NHBF NEWS

SKILLS CRISIS Concerns about the future of the hair and beauty industry have been highlighted in the NHBF’s latest report Careers at the cutting edge: tackling the skills shortage in the hair and beauty sector. The report reveals that 57% of hair and beauty businesses have unﬁlled vacancies

do because they need more privacy, so people don’t stare. Distraction is key. Most children don’t like clippers, so I might use an iPad – anything to make them comfortable. Most of the children don’t like the chair, so sometimes I do it on the sofas, or while they sit on their parent’s knees. It takes more time – sometimes an hour and a half. But it’s okay because I don’t want them to feel nervous.

13 It’s not about money – it’s the same price for every child because children with additional needs are no diﬀerent. It’s sad that many shops don’t take these clients. My shop, Wombwell Style, is in Barnsley, and the nearest other shop serving those with additional needs is in Nottingham. Find out more on making adjustments at nhbf.co.uk/disability-friendly

and more than half of vacancies have taken businesses over 16 weeks to fill. Further findings expose multiple factors that have been steadily growing over time, including issues with qualifications and training, challenges recruiting and retaining staff, and financial pressures. Access the full report at nhbf.co.uk/ skills-report-2022 Read more on apprentice-related issues on page 15 and a summary on pages 41 to 43.

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Find out more at autism.org.uk

IMAGE: GETTY

My younger brother has additional needs, and people would say, ‘Sorry, we can’t do a haircut for him.’ I thought, why shouldn’t I do that? I did a course to boost my knowledge – I’m used to doing my brother’s hair, but the course helped me to stay calm and understand how to make such clients comfortable. I’m approached by many parents of children with special needs. Some don’t need appointments, but some

● Some autistic people might struggle with someone standing near them or combing their hair. Tell them what you’re going to do, giving them a moment to process. ● Dimming or turning off bright lights can prevent sensory overload. ● Offering visits in advance, or appointments in quieter periods, can help autistic people to adjust.

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I can’t

cope

SUPPORTING HAIR AND BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS AND THEIR CHILDREN

Together we can help make a difference supporting terminal illness, domestic abuse, homelessness, poverty, mental health, and ﬁnancial hardship SPONSORS GOLD

SILVER

MEDIA

EXHIBITIONS

BRONZE CAMPAIGNS

Hairandbeautycharity.org | Registered Charity in England & Wales No: 1166298

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You asked, they answered Should I employ an apprentice?

WENDY CUMMINS Salon owner, NHBF Member and chair of the Hair Professional Apprenticeship Steering Group, England

In short, yes, yes and one more yes. As a salon owner, ask yourself these questions:  Do you want to grow your business?  Is education important?  Is industry recreation necessary and important? If the answers are yes, then we are led back to apprenticeships and apprentices. The strength and education shine through our businesses with them in place. Since its launch in 2014, the Hair Professional Standard was built with the sole purpose of creating juniors that are ‘job ready’. It has been well received by both the hairdressing and barbering industries, giving us a sound investment in our apprenticeships and our trade. Apprentices are the lifeblood of our businesses for ﬁlling in so much on a daily basis. They make our businesses tick and, in return, they give us back so much – enthusiasm, style, fashion, purpose, insight, learning and more. These people are our future – the stylists, salon owners and platform artists of tomorrow. Every apprenticeship is really suﬀering greatly at the moment, and I think we really need to

APPRENTICESHIPS

LATEST FIGURES GUURES

Findings from the NHBF report Careers at the cutting edge: tackling the skills shortage in the hair and beauty sector revealed some concerning results. While apprenticeship starts have been falling across all industries, starts in hair and beauty in England are decreasing at a faster rate than apprenticeships overall.  In the past ﬁve years, the number of apprenticeships in hair and beauty has more than halved.  If current trends continue, there’ll be fewer than 3400 hair and beauty apprenticeship starts in the UK by 2025.  But two-thirds (65%) of hair and beauty businesses were willing to consider hiring apprentices over 19 with government incentive funding.

bolster it. To be able to give an opportunity to a youngster to learn your profession is a really special thing. It is often said by salon owners: ‘I can’t aﬀord an apprentice.’ But I would say you can’t aﬀord not to have one.

RESOURCES  The Institute for Apprenticeships’ information for employers: instituteforapprenticeships.org/ employers  NHBF information on apprenticeships in England: nhbf.co.uk/apprenticeshipsin-england  NHBF guide on UK apprenticeships: nhbf.co.uk/ apprenticeships-in-the-uk  NHBF advice on the basics: nhbf.co.uk/taking-on-anapprentice-the-basics

Why? More than half (52%) of businesses said the biggest threat to apprenticeships in hair and beauty was lack of ﬁnancial support from the government. Businesses are struggling to pay salaries plus operational costs. Yet many salons and barbershops cite lost opportunities from not being able to hire career changers. A growing emphasis on college-based training, encouraged by schools, is also having an impact.

Anything positive? Almost three-quarters (72%) of survey respondents identiﬁed the role apprentices play in business sustainability as one of their three reasons for employing them. Financial beneﬁts and strengthening the retention of junior staff were next.

What’s the answer? Suggestions to tackle training and qualiﬁcation issues included improving college courses as well as relationships with schools and championing regulated ‘job ready’ professional qualiﬁcations.

IMAGE: ISTOCK

MEMBER QUESTION

N EWS T HE CU T

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TH E CU T CO M M U N IT Y

New ways to support the homeless Who? Haircuts4Homeless (H4H) has created an Ambassador Programme as a way for salons, barbershops and spas throughout the UK to support it. Why? Participating businesses add £1 to the cost of selected services, to go towards a service for a person in need. How? To get involved, display the H4H logo by chosen services on your price list. This can be used to promote services, whether it’s giving exposure to a junior stylist or upselling a backwash. With the £1 donation, H4H

will be able to fund not just a haircut, but a kind gesture that lets a homeless person know people care. H4H founder Stewart Roberts says: ‘We hope that by opening up this programme, any salon, regardless of what it specialises in, can oﬀer its help or services by becoming an Ambassador.’ Find out more or sign up at haircuts4homeless.com/ambassadors

COMMUNITY 11 SPIRIT The projects making a diﬀerence across the UK.

BECOMING A FIRST RESPONDER Who? Denman’s International Business Manager Martyn Wady, who has worked as a salon educator and session hairdresser, now works from home in rural Bedfordshire and has trained to become a ﬁrst responder (FR). Why? ‘I live in a rural community and it can take longer than normal for an ambulance to get to the village – between eight and 12 minutes. I can get anywhere in my village in around four minutes, which could make a massive difference in saving someone’s life.’

How? Martyn did ﬁve full days of training and 25 hours of online learning with East of England Ambulance and commits to further monthly training. He is ‘on-call’ weekly and attends category 1 and 2 emergencies (life in danger and possible life in danger).

Should others join up? ‘Yes, although it’s probably more practical for a hairdresser or barber to be on-call out of work hours and on days off. Importantly, they will still have the knowledge, so if anything were to happen in the salon, they would be equipped to deal with it.’

MARTYN’S TOP TIPS ● Learn CPR ● Locate your nearest AED (deﬁbrillator) ● Do a ﬁrst aid course For more on FR training, go to your local regional ambulance service website

DEMENTIA FRIENDLY SALON Who? NHBF Member O.Constantinou & Sons in Cardiff has become Dementia Friendly as part of the Alzheimer’s Society’s Dementia Friendly Communities scheme. Why? ‘We’ve had experience of clients with different stages of dementia and their carers, and wanted to create a safe and welcoming space for someone living with dementia.’ How? ‘The training helped us think about the challenges someone living with dementia might face when interacting with their stylist or therapist – from booking an appointment on the phone to paying at the end of their visit.’ Award win: The salon’s efforts to help its most vulnerable clients resulted in it winning the hair and beauty category of the Cardiff Life Awards 2022 for the second time, having also won it in 2019.

TOP TIPS TO BECOMING MORE DEMENTIA FRIENDLY: 1. Provide a quiet space for clients with dementia – maybe a separate room or quieter area. 2. Update signage, such as for the toilets and exit, so that it is clear. Use a simple font in contrasting colours and place at eye-level. 3. Speaking to someone in the mirror can be confusing – talking to them face to face at the side of the chair would be much clearer. For more information, visit bit.ly/dementia-get-involved

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COM MUNI TY T HE CU T

Barbers tackling taboo topics Who? HairForce 1 barbershop and training academy owner Anderson Boyce and Macmillan Cancer Support. The two came together to establish a network of 11 barbershops that serve African and Caribbean communities across London by oﬀering men an opportunity to access information about prostate cancer, as well as a safe space where they can speak about their concerns or experiences while having a trim. Why? The barbers involved recognised their inﬂuence within their communities and volunteered to help normalise conversations surrounding prostate cancer within the black community. In the UK, about 48,600 men are diagnosed with prostate cancer each year. Black

men are two to three times more likely to develop it than white men, and their death rate is twice as high. How? Each barbershop distributes leaﬂets and information about the importance of having a medical check-up to increase the likelihood of early detection and treatment, along with information about services and support. Anderson says: ‘I’m always looking for ways to add value to people’s lives via barbering, and this project does that. Cancer is a taboo subject among the Afro-Caribbean community – I think it’s partly an ego and pride thing of not wanting to show weakness and embarrassment. But if it wasn’t so taboo, and was spoken about more frequently and freely, we could be getting more early diagnoses. ‘With the relationships we’re able to strike up with clients, some of which are long term, we ﬁnd that clients are comfortable with us and forthcoming with information – we might hear before they tell their wives or parents. It’s important that we can have an open and honest conversation about the disease, as well as point people in the right direction for help and advice.’

HAIR & BEAUTY CHARITY LATEST Back for 2022 – the Hair & Beauty Charity’s annual bike ride is returning and this time it’s in the breathtakingly beautiful valley of Lake Garda, Italy. Taking place from 18–22 September 2022, the ride will be hosted by Victor Pajak of Headquarters Hair Salon in Surrey, and it’s hoped that the event will raise much-needed funds for the charity’s beneﬁciaries in the wake of an incredibly difﬁcult two years. Places cost £500 per person, plus a minimum fundraising pledge of £300.

For further information on what’s included or how to secure your place, call 01234 831888, email natalie@hairandbeautycharity.org or visit hairandbeautycharity.org

Find out more at macmillan.org.uk/cancerinformation-and-support/ prostate-cancer and macmillan.org.uk/getinvolved

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ADVE RTO R IA L

SALON SOFTWARE

It’s time to switch to Fresha Say goodbye to expensive salon software with subscription-free Fresha. 18

ith the cost of living crisis aﬀecting businesses and clients, there’s so much to be concerned about economically. However, by using Fresha you can save your business money, protect it against no-shows and late cancellations, and accelerate growth.

SUBSCRIPTION-FREE ‘Many salons still pay expensive subscription fees for salon software, but this is not necessary,’ says Fresha CEO and founder William Zeqiri. ‘Fresha is 100% subscription-free and it gives businesses the most advanced salon software, with a wide range of easy-to-use-features. Now salons can stop paying subscription fees for salon software by joining or switching to Fresha.’

JOIN 70,000 PARTNERS AND MILLIONS OF CLIENTS More than 70,000 businesses and 250,000 hair, beauty and wellness professionals are using Fresha, and it has already processed 500 million appointments via its consumer-facing website and app. In addition to making light work of appointment and calendar management, Fresha’s simple-to-use marketing tools boost and protects incomes too. Automated and blast marketing campaigns are easily set up, while appointment reminders and Fresha’s new deposits feature protects against loss from no-shows and late cancellations.

MAXIMISE YOUR ONLINE REVENUE POTENTIAL Another recent feature innovation is Fresha Store. Perfect for salons looking to maximise their revenue

potential online, it’s easy y to set up an e-commerce store ore and start selling products, s, all from within the Fresha platform. With low stock notiﬁcations and automatic stock syncing ensuring your clients’ favourite products are always in stock, simply promote your store on your website and socials and invite clients to collect their purchase, reserve for their next appointment or select a delivery option.

TRANSFORMING THE SOFTWARE LANDSCAPE As a world-leading beauty and wellness software firm, appearing in a16z’s influential Marketplace100 List, Fresha is backed by equity firm General Atlantic, the investor behind tech giants such as Facebook, Snapchat and Airbnb, along with other investors, including global beauty entrepreneur Huda Kattan.

‘This depth of resource has enabled us to introduce innovative features that make Fresha even more integral to your business,’ says co-founder Nick Miller. ‘This means we can provide the software and a wide range of features for free, alongside optional, paid-for premium features.’ William Zeqiri says: ‘Fresha’s growth is driven by a transformation of how our partners have embraced using Fresha. It’s also a reﬂection of how consumers now ﬁnd the ideal salon, and book and pay for services and products online.’

Transform your business at fresha.com/ for-business

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1 12

N EWS T HE CU T

WANT TO GET INVOLVED? Jay Kennedy from the Directory of Social Change offers six tips…

LOBBYING

Be seen, be heard It’s never been more important for the sector to come together in a bid to inﬂuence those in power. But how does lobbying work? NHBF director of policy and public affairs Rosina Robson tells us more. Lobbying is…

How can I get involved?

When a person or group tries to persuade someone in government or parliament to support a particular policy or cause.

Since Covid, lobbying of your constituency representative can be very eﬀective. Many are still inundated and are prioritising correspondence from local residents rather than lobby groups. Oﬀering a salon visit is a good idea as they’ll get more of a feel for your business, plus it’s great for photos and may get local press coverage. Politicians love that. (See Want to get involved?, right, for more tips.)

Why is it important? Because if we don’t make the case for our sector, no one else will. It’s about trying to help the government make better policies by giving it access to a range of data, insight and information sources. The NHBF shares intelligence on the sector, such as our quarterly State of the Industry Survey and case studies about the realities for business. This informs government decisions around how to spend funds that come from your taxes.

What sort of issues is it effective on? On the Additional Restrictions Grant (ARG) issue, lobbying worked (see Lobbying wins, right) because decisions were being made at a local level about which sectors in the local economy to prioritise. Letters to council leaders and MPs proved eﬀective showing that personal care businesses had been impacted and should beneﬁt from the grant.

Make sure you’re a constituent, or ask a constituent that supports your cause to make contact. Check constituencies at parliament.uk

Written letters carry more weight than emails or ﬂyers that appear directed at multiple politicians. The NHBF often writes template letters for its campaigns.

Local surgeries are a good chance to discuss your issue when parliament is in recess, but you may need an appointment. Check your MP’s website for constituency ofﬁce details.

Keep your letter to the point and make a realistic, speciﬁc request. Then request a speciﬁc action, such as a meeting, an invitation to your salon/shop or support for a particular campaign, with data to give it more weight.

Follow up any actions in a timely way. If you send a letter and receive a response that doesn’t meet your needs, write again. If you get an MP to attend an event or sign up to a campaign, send a letter to say thanks and keep the dialogue going.

Develop relationships with the MP’s staff: they will often know more about schedules than the MP does. Be helpful, polite and connect your cause to the MP’s interests.

What’s the NHBF doing? Our key focus is to ensure the government continues to support the sector through the recovery phase. Our Fighting for You resources set out everything we are working on and lobbying on over the coming year. At the same link you can see some of the successes we’ve had over the last year: nhbf.co.uk/campaigns

RESOURCES  For a guide for lobbying on ARG grants, go to nhbf.co.uk/arg-blog

LOBBYING WINS Five local councils have extended their ARG criteria to the personal care sector as a result of the NHBF’s and your lobbying (correct at time of going to press):  Cornwall  Kirklees  Great Yarmouth  Dacorum  London Borough of Havering

 For background data on current sector trends, go to nhbf.co.uk/ industry-reports

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TH E BU SI N E S S ST E R E OT Y P E S

Female barbers, male nail technicians, and transgender and non-binary people are overturning traditional gender roles, helping to ensure the best person for the job.

WORDS GEORGINA WINTERSGILL

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TOP TIPS

HOW TO SUCCEED WHEN YOU’RE BREAKING THE MOULD

IMAGES: GETTY / ISTOCK

or a sector that’s so wonderfully trend-led, the hair and beauty industry can be surprisingly traditional in terms of gender roles. Why is it that so many people assume barbers are male, and beauty therapists and nail technicians are female? Years of tradition mean these stereotypes still linger. And we’re less likely to train for a career if we don’t see people like us working in it. In the same way, clients are less likely to expect female barbers or male beauty therapists if they don’t often see them. And despite the increased visibility of transgender and nonbinary people in society, it’s still commonplace for barbershops and salons to have gendered price lists and services. It means they’re not always welcoming places to those who don’t conform to gender binaries – staﬀ or clients. But times are changing, and there are increasing numbers of female barbers, males in nail salons, gender-neutral salons and transgender and non-binary people out and proud at work.

Helping to educate Brandon Lang, manager of L1 Nails in Liverpool and one of the stars of BBC

‘Be open about who you are and your pronouns. It’s important because if one person comes out, then other people might as well. Get your colleagues to embrace that, and do some gender awareness and inclusivity training.’

‘Be really good at what you do – that breaks down any stereotypes that people might have. If you love what you do, you’ll want to put your best into it and will be successful. People will love and appreciate your work and no one will bat an eyelid at the fact you challenge a few “norms”.’

KERI BLUE, BARBER

‘Be yourself. In the past we tried to behave more like female nail technicians in terms of their style and approach, but it didn’t work. We had to be ourselves to be comfortable, and that became our unique selling point.’ BRANDON LANG, NAIL SALON MANAGER

Three show Nail Bar Boys, says he sometimes gets negative comments from other men. ‘Some men ﬁnd it strange that I do nails and that I’m in the beauty industry. Some don’t understand, some can’t grasp it and some think it’s funny. But the majority of women know there are males in the nail industry.’ Nicolae Ghita, a make-up artist and hairdresser working at the Blue Mango Salon in south-east London, has noticed a diﬀerent stereotype. ‘Back home in Bucharest there’s this expectation that men usually

NICOLAE GHITA, HAIRDRESSER AND MAKE-UP ARTIST

‘Never doubt yourself. I’ve always said, “I turn my can’ts into cans and my dreams into plans.” I even have it as a tattoo.’

SOPH COLLINS, BARBER

become the best hairdressers, best chefs and best designers.’ He says he’s noticed the same preconception in the UK. ‘Clients would tell me that men are the best this or the best that. Obviously it’s a stereotype and I always shut it down.’

Creating visibility Brandon says the number of men in the nail industry has grown in recent years, particularly among certain ethnic groups (the Nail Bar Boys, six male nail technicians, are second generation British-Vietnamese).

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TH E BU SI N E S S ST E R E OT Y P E S

TRANSFRIENDLY PLEDGE

SHOWING COMMITMENT Marike Dette, owner of the Blue Mango Salon in south-east London, is proud to have a gender-neutral salon and has signed a series of commitments to welcome the non-binary and transgender community. She says signing the TransFriendly Pledge involved half a day’s online training and has led to a lot of new clients from the LGBTQ+ community. ‘We’ve had more and more recommendations and met so many cool and interesting people,’ she says. ‘The ﬁrst thing people say to us when they come here is, “You guys are so friendly, thank you for making me feel so comfortable.” I’m always in shock that they don’t feel they get that in other places. For us, skin is skin, we see no gender.’’

‘I’ve been in the nail industry for 11 or 12 years,’ he says, ‘and there are a lot more males now, particularly in the ethnic minority salons. My cousins, who founded L1 Nails, started males in the nail industry when they set up their salons in England 20 years ago. It was purely a business opportunity but it made it more normal for males to be in the beauty industry.’ The number of female barbers in the industry has also grown dramatically in the last few years. Soph Collins, owner of Soph’s Barbershop in Gwynedd, North Wales, won the regional award for Best Wet Shaving Barber (Wales) in 2017 and 2018, and was the ﬁrst woman to get to the overall ﬁnal of Britain’s Best Shave in 2019. She says she was bowled over by the response she got from other women. ‘At the time I didn’t know many female barbers, and the amount of women who approached me afterwards on Instagram and Facebook amazed me. Even though I didn’t win, it felt like I’d helped other female barbers give themselves more belief and encouragement to get out there and do it themselves.’

Leading the change The right working environment can help encourage women into the industry, too. Barber Siobhan

I’M PROUD TO BE A NON-BINARY QUEER BARBER Moriarty-Jones was initially drawn to barbering as she felt it had a more alternative, rebellious vibe than hairdressing, which suited her personality. But she was less keen on the ‘really masculine’ environment of typical high-street barbers, and opened her own shop, Cavalier Club Barber Shop in Bedford, to create a different vibe. She says: ‘I wanted to shake off that male ego feeling that you often get when you go into a barbershop. Our shop has never attracted that.’ Keri Blue, of Common Space Barbers in west London, describes what pushed them to train as a barber. ‘About 10 years ago I was refused a haircut at a barbershop for being female [Keri now identifies as queer nonbinary]. At the time I didn’t feel comfortable being female. I was on the journey towards transitioning and I thought my haircut could help me with that. When I was

GENDER DIVIDES

87% 13% 7%

of people working in the industry are female, and

are male

of nail technicians in the UK are male

16% of nail and beauty business managers in the UK are male

24% of UK barbers are female

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STEREOTYPES THE BU SI NESS

refused service I felt really dysphoric, embarrassed and distressed. That’s when I decided to train to be a barber.’ Keri also faced their own challenges working as a barber. ‘In a lot of barbershops I’ve asked to use my pronouns and they’ve disrespected and disregarded it. They say, “Our clients won’t understand, just leave it how it is.” I’ve had to take myself oﬀ to a queer environment because of that.’

Hair has no gender Keri’s experiences led to them to set up educational platform and consultancy service Hair Has No Gender (HHNG) in 2020 ‘to stop discrimination from happening and educate the hair industry’. Pre-HHNG, Keri ‘did a questionnaire for the LGBTQ+ community and asked if they’d feel comfortable going into a salon that

wasn’t openly LGBTQ+ aware, and 97% said no.’ The increased visibility of LGBTQ+ people may be contributing to the growing number of gender-neutral salons. ‘In 2020 there were only three London salons that said they were gender neutral,’ reveals Keri, ‘but now there are a lot, and I like to think RESOURCES I’ve got something  Hair Has No Gender by Keri to do with that. Blue: hairhasnogender.co.uk I’m proud to be a non-binary  See page 48 for tips on queer barber now, how to make your business whereas two or gender-inclusive three years ago  The TransFriendly Pledge: I wouldn’t tell transfriend.ly/the-pledge anyone, I would just put my head down and get on with it.

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TH E BU SI N E S S P O W E R O F B R A N DIN G

BUILDING BRAND Finding a clear brand identity can help your business to thrive. So how can you discover yours?

24 WORDS KAYE MCINTOSH

hat is a brand? It’s not just a font, a logo and your website – it’s who you are. Steph Stevenson, owner of HNB Salon Spa in Sandbanks, Dorset, says: ‘Your brand is a personality – an individual with a unique voice, so you build an emotional connection with whoever your target clients are.’ Your business is your salon and team, but your brand is your identity. For instance, Steph says, Disney’s brand isn’t films or theme parks – it’s magic. However you connect with the company, it is offering you a magical experience. Common misconceptions include thinking that, if you’ve pinned down your colours and the typeface on your website, that’s it. But Ryan Power of Salonology says: ‘It’s difficult to have

a meaningful relationship with a logo. What’s important is the owner or the manager, the face of the business. It’s your personal brand. Your client is going to look for common bonds with you.’

Why does it matter? Competition is fiercer than ever post-pandemic – everyone’s fighting to survive. Steph says a clear brand ‘increases loyalty and gives you a better differentiation, so you’re not the same as everyone else. You’re not posting the same stuff. You’re not speaking in the same voice.’ She adds: ‘I’m based in an area of high-net-worth individuals. We are a luxury brand. If I was to start offering massive discounts or speaking to the budget market I would lose clients.’ Michael Young of Hooker & Young, based in Newcastle and Teesside, says: ‘We have always been more attracted to beauty and glamour as opposed to an edgy, trendy, younger style. If we

were a magazine, we’d be Vogue, rather than a cool fashion mag.’

It’s not just you Steph says your team is key to your brand: ‘We are very careful with recruitment. We need every single person to want to deliver the very best experience for our clients.’ Make sure everyone understands the brand and their part in it.

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POW ER OF BRA NDING T HE BU SI NESS

Consistency is key. A strong brand keeps staff turnover low, holding costs down and reassuring clients. Michael says: ‘At the salon I work in, every stylist on the floor was my assistant at one point. We treat them really well. Everybody is employed. We don’t have any sort of rent-a-chair arrangements. ‘They all work hard, but they get paid handsomely. And we’ve got a lot of assistants. It’s been a bit of a pandemic itself in the hairdressing industry, not being able to get members of staff.’ But a clear identity means people want to work for you.

Make it real Make sure you live up to the brand the moment a client clicks on your social media or webpage – or meets you in real life. Steph says: ‘We have a concierge, Michael, who ensures you are really being shown the brand is about luxury and you are being looked after, the

WORKING OUT WHAT YOUR BRAND IS  Ask some key questions about you and your clients’ expectations.  What would your clients expect/place most importance on? Value for money? Luxury? High fashion? A straightforward haircut and style or an experience?  Where are you likely to bump into them? The gym? A bar or restaurant? A club?  What are their values? Are they keen on sustainability, for instance? IMAGE: ALAMY

 Who are you?  What are your values?  What makes you different from everyone else?

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TH E BU SI N E S S P O W E R O F B R A N DIN G

moment you walk up to the door’. Hooker & Young spends a lot of money on gorgeous flowers and ensures you are greeted immediately. There’s only ever one person on reception, so you aren’t faced with an off-putting barrier, and there’s a clear look for staff: smart black clothes, name badges and no trainers. You need to keep reinforcing the message. Steph says: ‘Our mantra is Every Customer, Every Time, Every Day. At team meetings we repeat it and look at the words the client used in reviews. If it’s “She made me feel so special”, we ask, how could you get more of that emotion? What would you like to be able to give your client?’

clients who run a digital marketing agency. ‘We told them how we wanted to look and what we wanted to do, and they came up with ideas for our logo. It was reassuring that the direction we were going in was the right one. If you’re really serious about getting this absolutely spot on, investing in that expertise is deﬁnitely worth it.’

YOUR BUSINESS IS YOUR SALON AND TEAM, BUT YOUR BRAND IS YOUR IDENTITY

Develop your ideas Don’t think clarifying your brand is a one-oﬀ – you need to keep working on it. Look at other brands for ideas. Michael noticed Bentley Motors had its own magazine. He and partner Gary wanted to create ‘a high-end, gorgeous read in heavy paper with an embossed foil banner. We knew the kind of magazine we would want to do would be pricey, not a ﬂimsy newsletter.’ Every word is written by Gary, with a beautiful shoot to showcase their work. It cost £25,000 to produce but the publishing company covers the expense by selling advert space.

Measure success Hooker & Young uses a market research ﬁrm to send in mystery shoppers and then feed back reports and scores for each salon at weekly team meetings. If there are negative comments, they talk to the staﬀ member about ways to improve. Michael says: ‘You may think, we’re brilliant, and not really stop to ask: are you delivering on the things that you say you are?’ Ryan says that, for a salon owner, ‘success is being seen as the best at whatever you specialise in – the number one lash artist in Warrington, for example. If people are talking about you positively, then your brand has worked. Especially if that results in people coming and giving you some money as well.’

Invest in your brand It’s worth getting expert advice, says Michael. Hooker & Young consulted

COMPLAINTS

THE POWER OF SORRY When things go wrong, you need to protect your brand. If a client is unhappy:

 Immediately apologise.

RESOURCES

 Listen. Make the client feel heard.

 Company vs. Brand: What Are the Differences? indeed.com/career-advice/ career-development/ company-vs-brand

 Fix what you can.  Offer reassurance. What can you do to avoid this happening in future?

 Advice on branding, marketing and more salonology.uk/blog

See page 32 for tips on handling negative reviews online or in the press.

IMAGE: ISTOCK

 Own it. Don’t deﬂect or blame someone else.

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V ULNERA BLE CLIENTS T HE BU SI NESS

The past couple of years have been a worrying time for vulnerable clients – and many are even more anxious now. How can you address their concerns? WORDS RADHIKA HOLMSTRÖM

AN EXTRA WARM

GROUPS AT RISK

WHO’S VULNERABLE?

ules on self-isolation and on mask wearing are rapidly being liberalised across the four nations (see Resources). But some clients can still ﬁnd it unsettling to walk into a salon or barbershop and be the only ones wearing a mask, regardless of what the law now says. Covid-19 hasn’t gone away (infection rates in England in April 2022 were at their highest since May 2020) and there are still a signiﬁcant number of people who are extremely anxious about going back to the salon – or going anywhere. So what do you need to be aware of?

Some people in this category are more obvious: people who’ve had organ transplants, or conditions that affect their immune systems (who in particular may have additional safety steps to consider) or hearts. But the category also includes people with a very high BMI, and people with diabetes. There’s also the age factor: older people are more likely to become more ill (and many older people have another condition too). Remember, clients with vulnerable relatives may be more cautious.

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TH E BU SI N E S S VU L N E R A B L E C L IE N TS

Anxiety and vulnerability

TOP TIPS

FIVE WAYS TO HELP

Esther Dawson, owner wner of YOUR CLIENTS Elegant Nails by Esther sther in Make time to truly Warrington, has a rare health listen to your client condition that means ans she’s extremely vulnerable. able. ‘I Give them the understand that restrictions estrictions opportunity to tell have to be lifted, but it’s a very you what they need anxious time for me now,’ she Reassure them that says. ‘I wanted to make a salon n salons don’t use you’re listening appointment for myself messaging and social Make sure they have recently, and they let me come me media as much as they the space around in at a time when it was quiet. quiett. could,’ she says. ‘We now them that they need But I’m now more anxious take appointments app ppoi ointments online, means because people may ay be and that th hat m eans ea ns clients Take action to show them you’re doing opportunity working with Covid-19.’ id-19.’ often ta of take ke tthe he o ppor pp ortu t nity y what you can. be open And people who o are not to b e a bi bitt mo more re o pen pe n an and d honest vulnerable may bee worried hone ho est iin n ttheir hei eirr message mess me ssag agee would too. ‘We’ve got good od evidence evi vidence that levels of than they the hey y wo woul uld d if tthey hey he y weree jjust ustt us ringing anxiety in generall rose ros osee at the time of the ring ngin ing g up up.’ . first lockdown, and nd th they ey ccontinued onti on tinu n ed to rise during the others.. People Peo opl plee feel feel anxious anx nxious In n tthe he s salon alon al on about Covid-19 forr all kin kinds inds ds of of reasons,’ reas re ason ons, s,’’ Once On c they the hey y co comm commit mmitt tto o a tr trea treatment, eatm tmen ent, t, m most ostt os points out Mike Crawford, concerned clients have pretty idea rawford d, professor prof pr ofes esso sorr in conc co ncer erne ned ed cl clie ient ntss ha h vee a p rett re tty y go good od ide dea a mental health research Centre needs. ‘[As earch in th thee Ce Cent ntre re ffor or of ttheir heir he ir n eeeds ds. ‘[ [As A a cclient] lien li ent] t] iiff I wa want nt a Psychiatry at Imperial College London. beauty treatment, I look for a salon that ‘In our research, we found some people isn’t full of people, and my first priority becoming so anxious about catching is that they’re wearing a mask,’ says the virus that they started withdrawing Esther. Additionally, Esther stresses the from society, going far beyond importance of reassuring clients that government advice.’ salons are keeping to impeccable hygiene standards. Most vulnerable or concerned clients will also want to come in at a Identifying and quieter time, and for masks to be worn. helping nervous clients Some salons, like Blitzkrieg Chop, How exactly can hair, beauty salons and still mask up as a matter of course. barbershops reassure nervous clients, make ‘We do get quite a lot of people who them feel comfortable and ensure business have all kinds of anxieties, so we’re is not lost? used to meeting their needs – for Firstly, by paying attention to their fears, instance, cutting their hair in a private says Mike. ‘You may find they have very space,’ Danielle explains. ‘It’s about good reasons. If I see someone wearing a dealing with what they are comfortable mask, my first reaction is “Do they have a with, rather than our version of what health condition that means they have to makes us comfortable.’ wear one?” It’s about respect. You can make a choice about how to react, and give people the courtesy they need.’ Just being there Of course, not everyone may tell you When salons go above and beyond, upfront that they’re worried, so Danielle there’s absolutely no doubt that their Jeffery of Blitzkrieg Chop in Worthing efforts are appreciated. ‘Earlier this year, suggests being proactive about it. ‘A lot of I went to a beauty salon where the

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V ULNERA BLE CLIENTS T HE BU SI NESS

BE KIND

SOME PEOPLE BECAME SO ANXIOUS ABOUT CATCHING THE VIRUS THAT THEY STARTED WITHDRAWING FROM SOCIETY, GOING FAR BEYOND GOVERNMENT ADVICE

Sue Steward, head of client and commissioning at the Chartered Trading Standards Institute, has produced guidance on working with vulnerable consumers. Why the guidance was needed: ‘We’re concerned about how things have changed so dramatically, and that businesses need to recognise that a lot of people who weren’t previously “vulnerable” have been sitting at home with any support for the past couple of years.’ The impact: ‘That’s affected them physically as well as mentally. We’re no longer just

thinking about people with a learning disability or a recognisable physical impairment, because newly vulnerable people have entered the mix. They don’t quite feel themselves at the moment, they don’t feel comfortable, and that’ll have an impact on their decision-making.’ Sue’s advice is, above all:  To take time, be kind, and be open-minded about the impact that the lockdown and pandemic have had.  Show that you’ve got empathy for their situation, and take the time to understand what their needs are.

29 therapist asked me what would make me feel RESOURCES safe,’ Esther says.  Find the latest guidance ‘She’d been from the four UK vaccinated but governments, plus more: she also did a nhbf.co.uk/four-nations Covid test. And then when I was  Recognising client vulnerability in your salon due back she or barbershop blog: shifted my nhbf.co.uk/recognisingappointment vulnerability because she had been ill, even though she was no longer testing positive. She didn’t have to do that. And that is what you need, as a clinically vulnerable person: your needs taken into consideration.’ Finally, don’t underestimate the value of having a treatment to people who’ve been even more isolated than the rest of us. ‘For some people, this is going to be an important step back into normal life. And by showing them respect, you’re helping them get over their fears,’ Mike concludes.

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T H E BU SI N E S S M E D IA

THE GAME 32

Some negative client reviews are going viral on social media and making headlines – but you can stay in control of the impact. WORDS HELEN BIRD

IMAGE: ISTOCK

can literally never leave the house again,’ the caption reads, alongside a video of a woman crying as she compares her hair colour result with a background image of her desired look. ‘This is what I asked for… and this is what I got!’ she sobs. This video – which was posted to TikTok and went viral – and others like it seem to be taking the written customer review to another level. And they’re gaining more attention: this particular post had more than 600,000 views and was picked up by UK media, despite being posted in the US.

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MEDIA T HE BU SI NESS

Why are such ‘stories’ becoming tabloid fodder? Reporters are increasingly using platforms like TikTok to pick up and share content in the press because it’s ‘relatable’ and taps into the younger generation, a School of Journalism blog suggests.

Dual intentions For cyber-psychologist Dennis Relojo-Howell, founder and managing director of Psychreg and a researcher in clinical psychology at the University of Edinburgh, the reviewers at the root of much of the negative press aren’t merely seeking attention. ‘Research indicates that clients take to social media to post bad reviews as a warning to the online community, helping people set proper expectations,’ he says. ‘Social media’s power to amplify a message is a disgruntled client’s greatest weapon. ‘Two other factors are at play. First, responsiveness: for instance, Twitter users are more likely to receive a same-day response from a customer service rep or business owner. Second, some influencers post bad reviews because negative impulses are likely to attract more attention than positive ones.’ But salon owner Kelly Teggin, who recently won a court case against a client who accused her of causing catastrophic damage to her hair, believes financial motivation could also be a factor. ‘Hairdressers are being targeted by “no win, no fee” solicitors, who see these bad reviews and target that person through Instagram,’ she explains. ‘They’ll find someone who’s put a bad review up and contact them, saying: “It’ll cost you nothing to pursue this.”’ While the salon, shop or professional may not always be ‘named and shamed’ by the negative reviewer, a post that

SOCIAL MEDIA’S POWER TO AMPLIFY A MESSAGE IS A DISGRUNTLED CLIENT’S GREATEST WEAPON goes viral is sure to aﬀect the businesses and individuals whose work is publicly shamed.

Shaming culture ‘The emotional impact of digital shaming can be overwhelming,’ says Dennis. ‘They may feel helpless and worry about what digital bomb will be dropped next.’ Could online shaming – particularly when it’s picked up

by the press – put oﬀ prospective recruits to the industry? NHBF chief executive Richard Lambert believes the next generation is too savvy. ‘New entrants to the sector these days have grown up with social media as an intrinsic part of their lives, and are likely to develop a better sense of how to manage their lives online. ‘Very few people choose a career on the basis of whether or not they are likely to be trolled on social media, and even fewer would anticipate making the kind of mistake that would lead to that,’ Richard adds. But as salons and shops attempt to welcome clients back postpandemic, bad press could have an impact on revenues, Dennis suggests. ‘When a potential salon client is exposed to a large

HOW TO HANDLE DIGITAL SHAMING If you ﬁnd yourself or your business on the receiving end of a bad social media review or press story, follow these tips from Sharon Brigden, of communication agency SLBPR:  Send a message saying: ‘Thank you for bringing this to our attention and I’m sorry you didn’t feel able to discuss this before you left. I hope we can resolve this for you. Please call me personally on…’ The aim is to get the complainant ofﬂine as soon as possible so the issue doesn’t escalate and go viral.

media and make sure your whole team knows who that is.  At no point criticise the client – it will reﬂect badly on you.  Explain the facts – if something has gone wrong then say so, and explain what measures have been put in place to stop it happening again.  Review your customer complaints procedure regularly to avoid negative reviews being posted on social media.

 Take the unhappy client through your complaints procedure and reach a satisfactory outcome that also sees them remove their negative review.

 If the review is particularly damning and you’re worried about what media coverage will do to your business, hire a PR professional to help steer you through the crisis.

 If a bad review is picked up by the press, be careful what you say. Elect one person to talk to the

 Also refer to the NHBF’s guide to handling complaints (see Resources overleaf).

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T H E BU SI N E S S M E DIA

TAKE BEFORE AND AFTER PICTURES OF EVERY CLIENT – AND UPLOAD THEM TO YOUR SOFTWARE in a rare and landmark outcome in her favour. Ironically, social media worked against the claimant after she posted holiday photos in which her hair appeared healthy. If you feel the need and it suits your business, Kelly advises taking before and after pictures of every client – with permission – and uploading them to your salon software as a precaution. ‘It takes seconds but could save hundreds of thousands in the long run,’ she says.

Gaining trust

number of negative reviews, a negative expectation emerges.’

Turning bad press around On the ﬂipside, Dennis adds, most people know that not all negative press is to be believed, especially when it’s based on one person’s online review. ‘Because social media often lacks suﬃcient context, we shouldn’t treat the person who complained as if they’re automatically the victim, or their version of events is accurate,’ he says. Kelly’s determination to prove she was not in the wrong resulted

RESOURCES  Download the NHBF guide to handling complaints: nhbf.co.uk/complaints-guide  Read the blog about responding to complaints, including online reviews: nhbf.co.uk/ resolve-complaints  NHBF advice on client complaints and consumer law: nhbf.co.uk/ADR

Richard adds that while the NHBF would not comment on an individual case if it appeared in the press, it would advise on any broader issues raised. ‘For example, when there were reports last summer of an increase in reported cases of allergic reactions to hair dye, we did not discuss the individual salons or clients involved but explained the reasons why the number of reports might have increased, conﬁrmed that there was no deﬁnitive link between Covid-19 infections or the vaccines and heightened allergic reactions, and reinforced the importance of allergy alert testing.’ When client horror stories hit the headlines, can the sector change its portrayal in the media? It shouldn’t need to, Dennis suggests. ‘It’s important for salon owners to remember that reviews can be subjective, and to use these reviews as an opportunity to win the trust of their clients.’

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TH E BU SI N E S S PAY M E N T T E R M IN A LS

With cash use declining, here’s what you need to know when choosing a payment terminal. WORDS PETER CRUSH

TAP INTO

hile Covid-19 decimated business activity temporarily, its eﬀect on cash has been more permanent. In 2020 the number of UK transactions in notes and coins plummeted by 35%, and ﬁve in six UK payments (£166bn) are now made without cash. Payment is almost exclusively the preserve of tap-and-go terminals – boosted by a maximum limit of £100. This alone saw card payments jump by another 30%, according to UK Finance. But while the technology is easy for consumers, barbershop and salon

owners have a variety of providers to consider and questions to answer before selecting the right one for their business.

No contract vs rental The trade-off for not having a contract is a higher transaction fee. Zettle and SumUp offer card readers for £19 and £29 respectively, or terminals for £149, with no monthly fees or contracts – but they charge 1.75% and 1.69% per transaction. Dojo charges £20 a month and fees of 0.3%to 2%. But it also offers turnover-dependent contracts – a monthly rolling contract for businesses earning more than £150,000 per year, and a six-month initial contract for firms earning less.

WHAT ABOUT TIPS?  Tyl (from NatWest) allows vendors to set suggested tip percentage amounts in its app, which clients can then accept.  SumUp has a ‘smart tipping’ function, in which clients can choose from dynamic tipping options based on the transaction amount.  Zettle can be set up to ask the client if they would like to add a tip. If yes, they must add the amount manually.

IMAGE: GETTY

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PAYM ENT TERM INA LS T HE BU SI NESS

Speed and fees According to Mobile Transaction, which recently tested the main players, payments via Zettle are typically credited in one to two working days, while SumUp takes up to three days. Dojo, meanwhile, oﬀers nextday payments for free. Minimum transaction values of £1 are required by Zettle, but not by other providers such as Square. However, this is probably less important than the small print relating to minimum monthly transaction fees. Dojo’s minimum fee is bespoke for each business, and it charges users this amount even if they haven’t made suﬃcient sales. This is not the case with MyPOS, Square and SumUp.

DON’T FORGET...  Fees add up: If a client pays £25 and your transaction fee is 1.75%, you’ll be charged around 43p by your provider.  Do you want portability? Countertop card machines are probably best for salons, which have a single point of sale. Portable machines require recharging and need a good 3G or 4G signal.  Customer support: Check how reliable and friendly a provider’s customer support is. SumUp, Square and Zettle score high praise for their support on most comparison sites.

BEST FOR...  Lowest transaction fee: Barclaycard Anywhere – 1.6%.  Cheapest device: Square Reader’s device is £16, with no monthly contract.  Add-ons: Zettle can provide terminals, stand docks, receipt printers and even barcode scanners.

their business needs and to ensure they do their own research on which providers fulﬁl those needs. ‘Paying by card remains hugely popular and contactless Visit nhbf.co.uk/ payments are also widespread,’ card-payment-solutions she says. ‘It’s also important Do your research that Members know the law when it comes to Tina Beaumont-Goddard, NHBF director of taking payments and not charging clients for membership services, advises Members to paying with a card.’ choose a payment machine that best suits

CASE STUDY

‘I HAD TO ESCAPE CONTRACT HELL’

FIVE IN SIX UK PAYMENTS – WORTH £166BN – ARE NOW MADE WITHOUT CASH

Paul Curry, owner of York-based hair salon Studio 12, faced hidden charges and restrictive covenants with his ﬁxed-terminal system and knew it was time to change provider. ‘If you didn’t cancel your contract within a small window of time, you’d be stuck for another minimum of three years, and it would charge monthly fees if you didn’t

update compliance documents – which kept changing each time, so you couldn’t just submit the same information,’ he says. ‘I am now with SumUp. It’s pay as you go, there are no hidden fees and it’s more straightforward. I don’t mind paying the higher transaction fee because it doesn’t cost a great deal

more in the long run. I’d rather have this to get out of a long-term and timeconsuming contract.’ Paul uses a basic reader, which means he can’t print

receipts, although he can text or email them. However, only one client has asked for a physical receipt in over six months. He also says clients prefer a tap-and-go payment option. ‘Before Covid-19, 40% of clients paid by card and 60% used cash,’ he says. ‘Now it’s 95% via card. With the limit rising to £100, most of our services can be paid in full by people tapping their card.’

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TH E BU SI N E S S S O C IA L M E DIA T R E N DS

ince its launch in 2004, Facebook has grown to become the most visited website in the world after Google and YouTube, with 2.9 billion monthly users. The sheer size and coverage of Facebook means that it is a platform worth showcasing your salon or barbershop on, and our experts explain just what you need to be doing to make the most of it.

In the third of our social media trends series, we look at how you can best use this platform to showcase your business and entice new clients. WORDS HOLLIE EWERS

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S OCIA L M EDIA TRENDS T HE BU SI NESS

THE EXPERTS

ALICE KIRBY Why have a business Facebook page?

2/3 of Facebook users say that they visit the page of a local business at least once a week

founder of Lockhart Meyer Salon Marketing and the Salon Social Club

What makes a good Facebook page?

RP: There are more than 1.93 billion daily active users on Facebook. This means there’s a RYAN POWER big chance that Salonology founder and your target clients mentor, are on there salonology.uk somewhere. There will also be some people who use Facebook like a search engine and will expect you to show up when they search for you to conﬁrm that you’re a legitimate business. AK: While Instagram is strongest with young millennials and Gen Z, Facebook has a strong adult demographic – in fact, 25- to 34-year-olds still make up almost a third of its users. For many salon and barbershop businesses, this is one of their main target markets.

What should it be used for?

1.6bn More than 1.6 billion people on Facebook are connected to a small business

Facebook Groups are a powerful marketing tool, Groups can help attract new clients and engage existing ones with exclusive content and support. They are also a great way to bypass the Facebook news feed algorithm and connect with audiences where they are actually likely to see and interact with your content. Recruitment – in addition to ‘we’re hiring’ posts, also add content showing what a great place your business is to work at and attract the best local talent.

RP: Facebook is fantastic for attracting clients but also for forging deep relationships with them because it enables two-way communication. Deep bonds with your clients result in lasting relationships. AK: Advertising – with a signiﬁcantly better average click-through rate compared with Instagram, Facebook is the go-to platform to advertise if you want to increase your website traﬃc and your sales.

RP: It’s really important to get some personality in – give people something to resonate and engage with and keep coming back to you. It’s also essential to connect your booking software so that people can book without the need to contact you ﬁrst. AK: Use Facebook to build client trust in your expertise and technical skills by posting testimonials and reviews, before and after photos, advice and ‘how to’ videos. Avoid constant hard sell – no more than 20% of posts should be a hard sell.

TOP TIPS Facialist and NHBF Top Influencer Abigail James has more than 10,000 followers on Facebook...  A great header is key as it’s often the first thing people will see  If you blog, link to posts via Facebook to drive traffic to your website  Don’t write too much on one post  Add a ‘click to book’ button on your page that links straight to your booking platform or website  Make use of Facebook Groups to ask for advice or chat with fellow professionals.

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TH E BU SI N E S S S O C IA L M E DIA T R E N DS

What features have practical business beneﬁts? RP: If you want your posts to be seen by lots of people, then video is still the way to go – it will almost always be seen by more people than static posts. Advertising is great if you’re looking

AT LEAST 80% OF YOUR CONTENT SHOULD TICK ONE OF THE FOUR Es: EDUCATE, ENTERTAIN, ENGAGE AND EMPATHISE 40

SELL YOURSELF

ALICE’S ADVERTISING ADVICE  Ask if what you’re advertising will make a difference to your business growth. Not everything is suitable for advertising – and not all advertising needs the same budget.  Use Facebook Ads Manager as its powerful targeting tools let you advertise to the right target audience and not waste your budget.  Always target a local audience to your salon location(s). This is the best way to reduce your social advertising spend.  Facebook advertising is also tied to Instagram (both owned by Meta), so make the most of advertising on both platforms at the same time. Facebook Ads Manager even allows you to adapt and tailor ads within the same ad campaign so they’re suitable for each platform.

to expand your reach or engagement. However, paid advertising should be planned as a part of a campaign with a speciﬁc outcome in mind. AK: Activate the Facebook Reviews tab and start asking clients to review you. Ensure seasonal promotions and important news don’t get lost by pinning the post to the top of the news feed.

RESOURCES  NHBF blog on how to use social media to boost your salon or barbershop: nhbf.co.uk/social-media  NHBF paid advertising webinar: nhbf.co.uk/events/webinars  Lockhart Meyer guide on how to create a salon social media marketing plan: bit.ly/LM-social-media-guide  Facebook business page basics: facebook.com/business/pages

How can you boost your page? RP: Use Facebook Insights to see which posts have worked well before and create more of the same. AK: Pose questions to get more engagement. Run a giveaway, but make the prize a gift voucher to encourage local people to enter. Use local hashtags to reach a nearby audience who are more likely to convert into paying clients.

With the popularity of Instagram, is there still a place for salons/barbers on Facebook? RP: The key to marketing is ensuring that you’re putting the right thing in front of the right person on the right platform. AK: Apart from its sheer size and the advertising beneﬁts, Facebook lets you include direct links to your website from your posts, whereas Instagram users are restricted to just one link in the bio. So, for driving more traﬃc to your website, Facebook is the handsdown winner.

IMAGE: GETTY

At least 80% of your content should tick a minimum of one of the Four Es: educate, entertain, engage and empathise.

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RA IS ING STA NDA RDS T HE BU SI NESS

mproving your business shouldn’t have to be a case of ‘root and branch’ overhaul. A progressive raising of standards is a sustainable way to ensure your salon or barbershop maximises its potential. Hair and beauty sector standards cover a range of areas, including workplace culture, client service, health and safety, and

education and training, and can vary between businesses, according to Caroline Larissey, NHBF director of standards and quality. NHBF Members receive the federation’s professional code of conduct, which provides good practice guidelines. ‘The code enables Members to embed good practices within their business,’ says Caroline. Standards that seem high in one setting can appear diﬀerent in

another. Sophie-Rose Goldsworthy, manager of Goldsworthys Hairdressing, a salon group in south-west England, says it’s hard to compare standards between barbershops and salons, for example, because they offer different experiences. Demographics also make a difference – a high standard for a salon geared to an older population may look different in one aimed

REACH FOR

Training, collaborative working and attention to detail are just some of the ways salons can improve standards in workplace culture and beyond. WORDS KATHY OXTOBY

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TH E BU SI N E S S R A IS IN G STA N D A R DS

at younger clients, says salon owner and educator Christian Wiles of Christian Wiles Hairdressing in Northampton.

Unique attributes Businesses also set their own standards. ‘Each salon has its own level of uniqueness,’ says Charlie Collinge, managing director of Andrew Collinge Hairdressing. What makes a business unique is its workplace culture, says Caroline. ‘This is the character and personality of your organisation – your shared values, business goals, leadership structure, behaviours and attitudes.’ Creating a good workplace culture, she continues, involves ‘taking into account everything

42 TOP TIPS

IMPROVING WORKPLACE CULTURE Hold regular team meetings and one-toone reviews Be collaborative and involve your team Listen to clients and learn from their feedback Take customer service ideas from shops, hotels and restaurants

WHEN YOUR TEAMS CAN RECITE BACK YOUR VALUES WITH PRIDE, YOU KNOW YOU’VE HIT A SWEET SPOT from the physical layout of the salon or barbershop to the frequency of employee interaction’. A good workplace also ‘looks at the wellbeing of its employees, as this is crucial for the growth of an organisation’. At Andrew Collinge, values and standards are communicated to staﬀ through team meetings, one-to-one conversations and newsletters, as well as training. ‘Instilling these values involves habitual learning and doing things consistently,’ says Charlie. ‘When your teams can recite back your values with pride, you know you’ve hit a sweet spot.’ Working with your team is key to improving workplace culture, says Sophie-Rose. ‘We are always in discussions with our staﬀ about how they think we can improve, and work together to ensure everyone is happy with changes we make,’ she says.

For example, beauty salons have expanded into skin rejuvenation treatments, wellbeing and alternative therapies. Barbershops can join up with health clubs, gyms, bars and cafés, creating a drop-in, sociable environment, she continues. In 2016, Charlie decided to dedicate a floor of the salon to male grooming. ‘We noticed a gap in the market to give male clients a salon experience, including hair massage, product recommendations and a choice of quality beverages.’ Marc McCune, who runs two Eutopia salons in Glasgow and Helensburgh, believes in ‘quality finishing touches’. ‘We serve tea in a teapot on a tray, offer a digital magazine service and have fresh flowers on the reception desk. It’s these little touches that people see as important,’ he says.

Measuring up You also need to check whether your changes are making a

Staying ahead To stay on top, businesses need to establish ‘a loyal clientele, or perhaps oﬀer something diﬀerent to other salons in their area to secure clients’, says Caroline.

Pay attention to details – those small touches matter.

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RA IS ING STA NDA RDS T HE BU SI NESS

difference. Caroline says there are many ways to measure improvement, including staff reviews and appraisals, client questionnaires and feedback. Owners can conduct ‘workplace happiness surveys’ to measure their performance. Caroline reveals that an NHBF happiness survey suggests ‘a clear link between positive workplace culture and a successful business’. As reported in the last issue of salonfocus, an NHBF poll has found that owners have been revising their opening hours to provide more staff-friendly times. Sophie-Rose says that Goldsworthys has ‘put more value on our staff members’ mental health and morale at work, and introduced a four-day working week for better work/life balance’. That individual settings are raising the bar is good for both staff and clients – but the industry also needs to work together to raise standards, qualifications and accreditation.

This is important given the skills crisis, highlighted by the recent NHBF report Careers at the cutting edge: tackling the skills shortage in the hair and beauty sector. Employers are concerned that further education qualiﬁcations do not prepare graduates for work. The sector is also struggling with recruitment and retention: the pandemic has made work/life balance more of a priority, with people seeking more highly paid and ﬂexible jobs elsewhere, the report found. It recommends the

RESOURCES  NHBF code of conduct: nhbf.co.uk/professionalcode-of-conduct

industry builds stronger links between further education providers, salons and barbershops. With so much good work happening, Caroline would like to see organisations ‘working together to share their good practice to support the hair and beauty sector as a whole’. It’s also crucial for the sector to keep up with trends, while still respecting ‘old school’ standards. ‘We need to keep our businesses moving forward, which includes making the most of new technology,’ says Sophie-Rose. ‘But we also need to instil the traditional values of hairdressing and teach them to younger generations.’

 NHBF skills report from March 2022: nhbf.co.uk/ skills-report-2022 CASE STUDY

ONE VISION Carolyn Sweeney, owner of Creations in Chichester, training academy owner and coach Education, motivation and communication with your team are crucial. A good career path is important – people need career opportunities as well as safety and security. It’s important to have a vision for your salon. Our vision is that Creations should be a place where people want to be. I want my team and my clients to feel that way. To find out how clients feel about our salon and our standards, I find it’s best to use a good old-fashioned survey or telephone call. We also invite new clients back within two weeks of their first visit for a complimentary blow-dry to check they’re happy. To keep teams happy, we need to give them time to be creative and, coming out of the pandemic, the time to really ‘play’ with hair again.

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TH E I N SPI R AT ION MOOD BOARD

IS IT INSTA GRAM MABLE? Summer weddings are in full bloom, and so too are your beautiful bridal looks.

@chloe_eleanormua Bedfordshire

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@botiashairandmakeup London

@gracebaileyhair Dorset

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MOOD BOARD THE I NSPI RAT I O N

@bridesbyjoy London

@theartfulhairstylist Hampshire

@aartipmakeup Berkshire

@theupdogirl Devon

@kellydawnbridal London

@makeupologybrides London

Have you created a style that’s a bit different? Something you're particularly proud of and want to shout about? Then post a picture to Instagram with the hashtag #salonfocus and your shot could end up on these pages.

@natalienicholsbridal Devon

@martalula_makeupartist Mallorca

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TH E I N SPI R AT ION W H AT ' S T R E N D IN G

FASHIONABLE OR A FAUX PAS? Whether you embrace them or buck them, we take a look at the latest trends.

FESTIVAL INSPO 46

IMAGES: GETTY / SHUTTERSTOCK / IMAXTREE / MARK FAST

SUMMER PRO STYLES PANTONE PALETTE PAN Pant ne has revealed Panto its 10 standout shades from London Fashion Week Wee that will be popular for autumn/ winter 2022/23 and r choices. could inﬂuence hair, nail and make-up colou Dragon Lava, n Molte etic energ They are the bright and Spicy Mustard, and Green dant Abun , Violet ow Mead Fire, berry more earthy and serene Lichen Blue, Straw t and the Cardamom and e Coffe ry Chico ut, rspro Wate , Cream Crea the need for Seed. Seed The palette's tones aim to reﬂect y to express rtunit oppo ‘the ing allow while uillity tranq int’. restra duality without i our indivi

g on There’s lots going women’s hair this (as always) with wom season. Requestss for hair frosting have increased and, in some parts, balayage. Have you taken over from balay as 90s and while, Mean this? seen ue, it was never nue, 00s trends contin before the Rachel going to be long befo mad a comeback, from Friends cut made , feathered softer with iding coinc bottleneck cuts and curtain and b whether ise,, w bangs. Colour-wise copper, the brunette, blonde or co ‘expensive’ and demand is to be ‘expe ng. king. professional-looki

REPORT

GROWING TREND The organic beauty and wellbeing market grew by 15% in 2021 – the 11th year of continuous growth, according to the Soil Association’s Organic Beauty & Wellbeing Market Report 2022.

£138m What the UK organic beauty and wellbeing market is now worth

With the welcome return of festivals you may y this year, clients taking ﬁnd c inspiration from a nail hair and looks seen at the popul popu ar southern Coac ella. For California festival Coach ped nails were shape example, lipstick-sha n Thee egan seen on rapper Mega an of this unusual Stallion, who’s a fan atched French match shape, while mism ing along with rendin manicures were trend gemstone adornments. Popular inclu ed baby hairstyles spotted includ braids, coloured streaks, and space -up look was ake-u buns. A strong make i blue, purple er in iner bright under-eyelin l fe and neon shades, as festiva w outt with revellers went all-ou -up. m d make ced Euphoria-inﬂuence

£11m is spent on organic and natural beauty and wellbeing products every month by consumers

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VEGAN VALUES

looking Peop People opting to live a vegan lifestyle are in the sales -up make furthe furth r than food – as vegan 2021 in 28% by sing increa led, revea have h UK -up ke-up compared with 2020. Prestige vegan make nting accou year, last £58m at valued were sales bea y 12 of all make-up sales in the prestige beaut for 12% eye ge presti all of 17% while, Mean t. marke mark were shado shad w sales and 16% of lip colour sales ation found vegan of Sales s. brand vegan from 16% of increa incre sed by 29% in 2021 and account for ation Found sales. ation found -up make ge presti pr all ct, is the most popular vegan make-up produ accou acco nting for 31% of sales.

PERSONALISED HAIRCARE

Artificial intelligence (AI) is being used by a beauty tech brand to create a personalised shampoo formula. The client creates their own product by filling in a questionnaire with questions ranging from the type of hair texture (dry, oily, mixed) to habits such as diet and exercise. Benefits such as volume or frizz control can be selected, as can the intensity of the aroma – you can even customise the label. Could AIpersonalised products become part of salons and barbershops of the future?

48%

Nearly half of consumers now more concerned about the environment than pre-pandemic

HAD ANY THOUGHTS ABOUT WHAT YOU’VE READ? TELL US ON OUR SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORMS @NHBFSOCIAL

W HAT'S TRENDING THE I NSPI RAT I O N

THE LATEST

KEEPING YOU IN THE KNOW

INNOVATIVE FEATURES Fresha, the world’s only 100% subscription-free salon software platform, continues to introduce more innovative features to simplify salon management and protect the incomes of hair, barbering, beauty and wellness businesses. As the most requested feature from its 70,000 partners and the 250,000 professionals that use the platform, Fresha Deposits

PRIORITISING WELLBEING Premier Software is prioritising staff wellbeing by training team members in mental health first aid (MHFA) with St John’s Ambulance. Chief marketing officer Helena Cottrill and office manager Kimberley Flint completed the two-day course in Birmingham, awarding them a level 3 adult mental health: workplace first aider qualification. ‘There has never been a more important time to look after our mental wellbeing,’ says Helena. ‘I now feel better equipped with the skills to respond

brings a new level of protection to protect businesses from late cancellations and no-shows. This feature enables partners to set a deposit level and collect it at the time of booking, which can be retained in the event of a no-show or late cancellation. Meanwhile, Fresha’s new calendar syncing feature enables salon owners and team members to export appointments into their Google calendar, or other apps, so they can manage their personal and professional commitments simply and easily in one place. Discover more and join Fresha for FREE at fresha.com/for-business

to colleagues who need assistance.’ The MHFA training accompanies Premier Software’s current employee assistance programme, which provides staff with conﬁdential assistance for mental health. Visit premiersoftware.uk

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TH E I N SPI R AT ION HOW TO...

CHECK PRONOUNS

Adding pronouns to your booking system (she/her, he/ him, they/them) will help clients to feel welcome and respected. You can also introduce pronouns for staﬀ as part of email signatures, or in team member biographies online. ‘You can avoid discriminating against gender by using pronouns and learning what they mean and why they are important,’ says Keri. If your client forms ask for title information, add a gender-neutral option by including Mx (pronounced ‘mix’) along with Mr, Mrs and Ms.

BE MORE GENDER INCLUSIVE 3 It’s important to make everyone within your business feel comfortable and welcome, regardless of how they identify. Beauty expert Sam Marshall and short hair specialist Keri Blue oﬀer their insight.

REPRESENT VISUALLY

Keri advises reﬂecting on the imagery you use. ‘It’s important to have an honest representation of everyone who comes in and out of your business, especially in terms of hair. A lot of the time we use the same stock images, and we subsequently attract the same clients.’

TRAIN UP

Increasing your awareness of gender non-conformity and the terminology used is a good starting point. Sam Marshall (she/her) is founder of The Beauty Guru and teaches gender inclusivity training as part of Be Trans Aware, together with Keri Blue (they/them), founder of Hair Has No Gender. ‘Having trans and non-binary awareness training can help to increase your understanding,’ says Sam. ‘You’ll also beneﬁt from spotting what you might be doing that’s wrong or could be changed.’

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HOW TO... THE I NSPI RAT I O N

USE GENDER-NEUTRAL PRICING

WORDS: JULIE PENFOLD. IMAGE: GILLIAN BLEASE / IKON IMAGES

Base your pricing on what you do, not on gender. In terms of hair salons and barbering, Keri advises charging by time rather than using male and female pricing. ‘A long haircut could take 20 minutes, but a short cut could take an hour because it’s more technical. That’s why I charge per hour of my time so I’m not discriminating against anyone.’

RETHINK WORDING

Beauty treatments are commonly, and unnecessarily, separated by gender, says Sam. ‘Skin is skin, and it can vary from person to person. We really don’t need to separate treatments such as facials with male and female skin options. By oﬀering male and female treatment pricing, you’re also excluding anyone who’s non-binary or gender-ﬂuid.’ Intimate waxing does require body parts to be listed, but this can be written in inclusive language, says

Sam. For example, with a Brazilian wax (vulva area), you can ‘indicate the treatment is suitable for anyone with a vulva, including non-binary people, women and trans men.’ The word ‘unisex’ can be misleading, adds Keri. ‘When you see males and females under the same roof but charge diﬀerent prices, it’s discriminating against people like myself who are openly nonbinary and gender-queer. We advise saying a salon is gender-neutral rather than unisex.’

RESOURCES  NHBF blog on the importance of inclusivity in barbershops and salons: nhbf.co.uk/importance-ofinclusivity  Equality policy in section 24 of the NHBF employment contracts: nhbf.co.uk/contracts  Training for businesses: betransaware.co.uk

BE TRULY SOCIAL

Consider the way you speak to clients, suggest Keri and Sam – particularly on social media. A punchy, gender-based phrase such as ‘Hi ladies!’ is not inclusive language. Meanwhile, in barbershops, clients are regularly described as ‘gents’, ‘lads’ or ‘sir’. ‘Look at where you use language,’ says Sam. ‘It’s important not to assume that you know someone’s gender just by how they look.’

SHOW YOUR INCLUSIVITY

Having an employment diversity and inclusion policy that’s readily available for prospective employees and clients to read will show that your business is gender-inclusive and welcoming to all. ‘If your workplace is known to be gender-inclusive, staff are more likely to feel able to be themselves,’ says Sam. ‘You could also add a gender inclusivity statement on your website that welcomes everyone,’ adds Keri. ‘A benefit of being gender-neutral is it will help to broaden your client and staff base.’

WHAT THE LAW SAYS The Equality Act 2010 protects people from discrimination (direct or indirect) when they receive goods and services from a business. It aims to reduce inequality and ensure people are not disadvantaged or treated unlawfully in any way. Age, disability, race, sex, sexual orientation and gender reassignment (including social transition) are all protected characteristics under the Act.

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TH E E N D 6 0 S E C O N DS W IT H . . .

BROOKE EVANS The salon owner, hairstylist and host of the NHBF’s new podcast shares her excitement for her latest role.

I am super excited… to be hosting

I think I will bring positive energy…

the new NHBF Shines On podcast. This is something completely new for me to do – having an informal chat with some of my favourite people in the industry, learning about them as people and creatives, and taking an interest in how they got to where they are now.

to the podcast – let’s be honest, I love to talk, and I am a real advocate for a positive mindset.

I’m very much looking forward… to getting to know the guests and having discussions about what excites them, where the future of hair and beauty is going and the hot topics that are on everyone’s lips.

Some topics will be quite deep… and more diﬃcult to talk about but I’m happy to delve in. Being honest and having a positive outcome is key.

I hope listeners get a lot from the podcasts… not

self-employed stylists all need to be on the same page. It would make for an interesting discussion.

ALL ABOUT BROOKE Owns: Brooke Evans Ironbridge in Coalbrookdale, Telford Trained at: Tim Scott Wright Hair Surgery Follow: @br00ke.evans and @be.ironbridge

only to hear from their idols, but also because many business owners and creatives go through the same things. Whoever you are, you are certainly not alone.

I’d love to do a podcast on… the selfemployed vs employed situation. I feel like there’s a lot of diﬀerent points to be made about being an employer, being self-employed or being an employee. I believe that everyone has their place in hairdressing, and I think that hairdressers, business owners and

My career began in amateur photography… I was going to a lot of weddings and shows and loved watching the hairdressers at work. That’s when I decided to get into hairdressing. It looked way more interesting than photography!

I believe hairdressing is a form of art… and it should be shown that way. It’s such an inspiring industry, and what I love most is that you can be whoever you want to be. Whether that’s a salon hairdresser running busy client columns, a session stylist working with celebrities or an avant-garde hairstylist – you can be so creative. Access the podcast at nhbf. co.uk/shines-on

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Salonfocus Summer 2022

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