Salonfocus Spring 2022

TH E ES S ENTIAL MAGA ZI N E FO R SALO N OWN ERS

S PRI N G 202 2

THE CUT 5

Hello and welcome President Ian Egerton talks about the steps the NHBF is taking to keep Members connected

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contents 30

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The 12 things you need to know this issue Omicron impacts the start to 2022, and the £2.7bn untapped opportunity for the beauty sector

24 Thriving barbers

THE BUSINESS 20 Finances Managing outgoings can mean the difference between success and failure – here’s how to get on top of costs

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COV STORER Y

What does it take to run a successful barbershop? Three top barbers give their tips

THE INSPIRATION 44 Mood board Colourful TikTok nail trends

27 Children and teens Young people's hormones may be running amok, which is all the more reason they need healthy hair and skin

30 What’s in your products?

Salon products can irritate skin and flare up allergies, so it’s important to know exactly what you're using

34 Diversifying We speak to stylists who specialise in funeral hair, drag queen wigs and TV and film to see different ways to do hair

46 What’s trending From Pinterest Predicts to Metabeauty, we round up the hottest current styles

48 How to...

Write an awards entry

THE END 50 60 seconds with...

Rick Roberts, the three-time Afro Hairdresser of the Year

38 Social media trends Using TikTok to show off your business or brand

41 Beauty jargon Don’t bamboozle clients with industry waffle – communicate clearly and keep them at ease

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3

HELLO A ND W ELCOME THE CU T

The magazine of the National Hair & Beauty Federation

NHBF PRESIDENT

IAN EGERTON

IT'S IMPERATIVE THAT, TO STAY AHEAD OF THE CURVE, WE STAY CONNECTED

THE NHBF One Abbey Court Fraser Road Priory Business Park Bedford MK44 3WH 01234 831965 nhbf.co.uk sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk

CHIEF EXECUTIVE Richard Lambert

DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Tori Priestley tori.priestley@nhbf.co.uk 01234 834386

EDITORIAL Editors Emma Godfrey, Aviva Attias aviva@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk Deputy editor Katie Smith Assistant editor Hollie Ewers Content sub-editors James Hundleby, Kate Bennett

DESIGN Senior designer Seija Tikkis McPhail Picture researcher Claire Echavarry

ADVERTISING advertising@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk 020 7880 6230

PRODUCTION Production director Jane Easterman Account director Emma Godfrey emma@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk

PRINTER Manson Group, St Albans

COVER ILLUSTRATION Shutterstock

© The NHBF 2022 All views expressed in salonfocus are not necessarily those of the NHBF. All efforts have been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information published in salonfocus.

However, the publisher accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies or errors and omissions in the information produced in this publication.

No information contained in this publication may be used or reproduced without the prior permission of the NHBF. Recycle your magazine’s plastic wrap.

Check your local LDPE facilities to find out how.

n hair, beauty and barbering, our bread and butter might be client-facing services but, behind the scenes, technology continues to drive the industry into the future. It’s imperative that, to stay ahead of the curve in consumer trends, business news and industry developments, we stay connected.

To give you all of this and more at your fingertips, we launched the NHBF app at the start of the year.

Have you checked it out yet? We’d love to hear your thoughts about what’s great and what could be improved – drop us a line.

Over on Clubhouse, you can join us at 12pm every other Monday discussing the latest news and trends.

In the same vein, we’re excited to be starting our very own podcast, where you’ll hear from industry greats, business experts and, of course, the NHBF team. The official launch date will be announced soon!

There’s loads going on – including our search for the top 100 influencers of 2022, which we’re launching this spring. Could you be in the running?

It’s never too late to build a following on social media – even the most popular influencers started out somewhere. Check out our 2021

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winners for inspiration, including our chat with Chlöe Swift on page 13.

Of course, nhbf.co.uk remains an important point of reference and resources, and we’re continuing to invest in making improvements to it, making sure you can access everything you need in one place.

And proving there’s still very much a place for print, salonfocus continues to bring you a host of content in its pages. Our highlights this issue include a look at treating teens, top tips from successful barbershop owners and advice on how to use TikTok effectively.

The NHBF Industry Support Programme, designed to help businesses thrive this year, is well under way. We will, as always, update Members as it continues to evolve.

Finally, this is my last issue of salonfocus as NHBF president. The past three years have been a real privilege and I thank you for your support. I wish the incoming president all the very best and I look forward to supporting the NHBF and industry over the coming years.

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THE CU T SE CTO R S U RVE Y

S ECTO R S U RVEY T HE C UT

THECUT

STATE OF THE INDUSTRY Our latest survey findings show that the Omicron variant and renewed restrictions across the UK made for a difficult winter, despite the green shoots of recovery seen in the autumn.

We look at your responses.

The 12 things you need to know this issue...

Finances z42% of the 2851 respondents are breaking even. Nearly 40% are making a small or substantial loss, with only 19% making a small or good profit (down from 43% in September) z32% have raised prices in the last three months (down from 40%) z54% have debt; the level of debt has increased for 52% in the last 12 months; and 68% have used personal savings to keep going.

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IMAGES: ISTOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK

Confidence It’s clear that business confidence in the sector has weakened: z40% of businesses are confident of survival (down from 63% in September), 52% are ‘not sure’ zThis is close to the lowest confidence we have recorded, in November 2020, and the most uncertain that businesses have been since the survey started.

The NHBF is calling for: z The reintroduction of the Job Retention Bonus and restraint on further National Minimum Wage increases z An increase in the 50% discount on business rates for 2022-23 and flexibility on repayments of business loans z More attractive and affordable apprenticeship incentives z A commitment to make financial support via local authority grants available to businesses as soon as possible z Continued consultation between the sector and governments to tailor guidance in a clear, accessible way.

With continued support from each national government, further UK government support and incentives for apprenticeships, we’re confident the personal care sector will play an important role in the UK’s sustainable economic recovery, the future of high streets and people’s wellbeing.

Read the full results of the survey at nhbf.co.uk/state-ofthe-industry-jan

68% More than two-thirds of businesses have used personal savings to keep themselves going

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40%

of businesses are confident of their survival

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2

THE CU T N E WS

INCLUSION

£2.7bn untapped opportunity for beauty sector The Black Pound Report 2022 claims the UK health and beauty industry is missing out.

The report shows that four in 10 black, Asian and multi-ethnic consumers struggle to find suitable cosmetics, despite spending £230m a month on health and beauty. It also reveals: z Multi-ethnic consumers spend 25% more than other consumers on health and beauty z 59% of multi-ethnic consumers are more

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likely to purchase from a brand with an inclusive range z Eight in 10 are likely to recommend a company or brand to friends and family z 93% think brands have a responsibility to approach diversity and inclusivity.

The Black Pound Report aims to help

businesses and brands understand the value of inclusivity.

For more on the report, go to backlight. uk/black-pound-report

IMAGES: GETTY / ISTOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK

NHBF CHALLENGES GRANT ACCESS

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Men care more about their appearance these days, and many are seeking tips from barbers and hairdressers about ageing, with many seeking a winning formula for hair loss and receding hairlines.

They may not sound glam, but fermented products are tipped for big things in beauty, alongside other unusual ingredients.

Expect to see fermented tea and rice water, as well as prickly pear and flax, on labels this year.

NHBF NEWS

The NHBF and British Beauty Council wrote an open letter to chancellor Rishi Sunak over reports that hundreds of hair and beauty businesses were being excluded from claiming the Additional Restrictions Grant (ARG).

They asked why more than 60 local authorities (LAs) had reportedly rejected or not prioritised personal care businesses’ claims. They also wrote to Small Business Minister Paul Scully to encourage him to make sure that LAs made the grants available to the sector.

Richard Lambert, NHBF chief

See lavender in a new light: it is Pantone’s colour of the year. Its ‘Very Peri’ shade promises to help us ‘embrace the altered landscape of possibilities’ and ‘open us up to a new vision’. Expect purple requests in everything from hair and nails to make-up.

executive, said: ‘While we appreciate that each LA is entitled to create their own criteria, it does appear that a significant number have actively excluded hair and beauty salons and barbershops in their area.’

The NHBF urged barbershops and salons to ask their LAs why they were excluding personal care businesses.

Positive changes of councils reversing decisions have since been reported in Cornwall, Kirklees and Great Yarmouth.

Read more at nhbf.co.uk/ARGs

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WHAT’S HOT, WHAT’S NOT

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Make-up brushes are some of the dirtiest everyday items. Foundation brushes had an average of 1176 bacteria on them, while mascara wands had only six. But 50,430 bacteria lurk under one fingernail!

Finding products for dark skin is a struggle for three-quarters of consumers, another survey suggests. Over half say the industry doesn’t do enough to cater for all skin tones.

Counterfeit products are unpopular, but social media is influencing people to buy them – and research shows that beauty products are among the most popular product categories. So what can the industry do to turn things around?

MEMBER QUESTION

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You asked, they answered Should salons and barbershops be revising their opening hours and days?

Much discussion is being had about taking Saturdays off, working later evenings and alternating days off for staff – but what do owners need to consider if they are looking to make changes?

NEW S T HE CU T

NEW WORKING HOURS

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THE RESULTS ARE IN…

The NHBF carried out an Insta poll on changing work hours and days, and the results make interesting reading...

Would you consider shutting on a Saturday?

Yes 54% No 46%

PENNY ETHERIDGE Penny Etheridge Creative Business Consultancy

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Yes 71% No 29%

column up during the weekday they were working instead. The result? Happy and contented staff who I retained for years with no loss of revenue.

How many late nights do you open during the week?

Do you have another ‘big’ question you’d like us to ask the experts? Send it to hollie@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk

When asking if followers had revised their opening times and days recently, the responses were mixed, with some examples below: z Yes, I allow colleagues a Saturday off each month z Yes, one late night and no Saturdays except for a wedding. No more burnouts. z No, there have been enough changes so I’ve tried to stay as consistent as possible z Six days a week working nine-hour days – playing catch-up from Covid.

RESOURCES z NHBF guide to flexible working: nhbf.co.uk/ flexible-working-blog z NHBF flexible working factsheet: nhbf.co.uk/ flexible-working

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Less than two 52% More than two 48%

Remember: It’s important that whatever decision you make, it’s got to be right for your individual business needs based on costs and clients.

IMAGE: SHUTTERSTOCK

If you’re thinking strategically, as people often do at this time of year, one important question to ask is: ‘Is the flexibility of the services we’re offering right?’ That would include the availability of services, as well as staffing levels.

On one hand, accommodating staff requests over customer needs could, and probably will, result in a loss of trade – and therefore money. But is it wise to have staff sitting around on days or evenings that once were busy but are now not really any different from the rest of the week?

A good start is to analyse booking levels and revenue from Saturdays and late evenings, and then compare it with other trading days. This will give you the knowledge and confidence to make the right changes to your current working practice.

When I was a salon owner, I rewarded my loyal members of staff with a Saturday off each month because I had agreed with them that they had to fill their

Have you noticed a change in clients wanting weekday appointments rather than a weekend?

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Q&A T HE CU T

MEET THE INFLUENCER

CHLÖE SWIFT A professional hairstylist and digital hair educator, Chlöe came ninth in the NHBF’s Top 100 Influencers list for 2021.

WERE YOU SURPRISED TO BE IN THE TOP 10?

I was mega surprised! It was really exciting to attend the awards. My heart was beating so fast when the results were being announced. I also couldn’t get my head around how there were so many other people in the room that I follow and look up to, like Errol Douglas and Jonathan Andrew – and I was on the same shortlist!

WHO INFLUENCES YOU? Of course the top hairdressers, but when it comes to social media influences it could be anyone – from make-up artists to fashion stylists – who is simply creating amazing content. By watching them I can often gain good ideas like new transitions, displays or clever video editing.

HOW DID YOU GET INTO THE INDUSTRY? I’ve always been a hairdresser – I started out aged 15 as a salon apprentice. I then became a freelance hairstylist, working on shoots for fashion brands like ASOS. I was also an educator for GHD, travelling around the UK visiting various salons.

I’m now working for GHD full time.

HOW DID YOU BECOME AN INFLUENCER? I fell into it, to be honest!

I started creating content during the first UK lockdown in 2020. My boyfriend said I should start posting ‘how to’ videos on Instagram and TikTok. I had no SA LO N F O C U S | S P R IN G 2 0 2 2

clue what TikTok was! I first began posting 60-second videos on Instagram, when Reels didn’t exist, but people liked my content and I posted more and on TikTok too, which started to grow my reach and following.

WHAT DO YOU ENJOY MOST? It’s fun, but the most enjoyable part is receiving positive feedback. I get some lovely comments and messages from people who say my videos have helped them and made a difference – that’s really satisfying.

WHAT DO YOU DO TO RELAX? The first thing I do is scroll through Instagram, mainly to unwind by watching funny content. Otherwise I enjoy bottomless brunches with friends and spending time with family. You have to have a break – it’s hard – but you have to listen to your body and mind and don’t pressure yourself into being ‘present’ online constantly.

WHAT’S IN STORE FOR YOU NEXT? I have work trips to Milan and Dubai planned. And I’ve set myself a goal to build my TikTok and hit 100k followers.

And of course, to feature on the NHBF Top Influencer list again – but higher!

WHAT TRENDS DO YOU PREDICT FOR 2022?

Curly hair is going to be massive – think of the natural ringlets worn by Sex and the City’s Carrie in the early days. Also, really loose but polished beach waves.

Clients also want to know more about professional products and tips and tricks for healthy, shiny hair.

STATS NHBF rating: 9/100 Handle: @chloeswiftstylist IG followers: 18.9k TT followers: 66.2k Likes: 1.6m Most watched video: 12m See: bit.ly/chloe-swift-TT

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THE CU T N E WS

8 THE NHBF SNAP POLL RESULTS

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Between Christmas and New Year, if applicable, did you make the decision to temporarily close your business due to Covid restrictions or self-isolation rules?

Yes 40%

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Omicron damages our start to 2022 The hair and beauty sector had the highest number of cancellations from customers in December 2021 due to the spread of the Omicron variant of coronavirus.

Sixteen per cent of all businesses reported an increase in cancellations from customers over December 2021, but this figure increased to 50% for service companies, which include hairdressers and beauty salons, according to the Office for National Statistics (ONS).

A poll carried out by the NHBF in January confirmed the ONS

statistics, with more than 84% of hair and beauty salons and barbershops having experienced reduced business compared with what would normally be expected between Christmas and New Year (28 to 31 December 2021).

Staff shortages due to Covid or self-isolation also had an impact on businesses, with 54% reporting staff absences during this period.

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No 60%

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Did you experience reduced business compared with what you would normally expect for this time of year, for example due to cancellations or reduced footfall?

Yes 84% No 16%

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Did you have issues with staff shortages due to staff having to isolate or care for others isolating?

Yes 54% No 46%

While the government announced in December that it would help struggling businesses in the form of the Additional Restrictions Grant, the NHBF received reports that salons and barbershops were excluded from claiming the grant – read more about this on page 8.

IMAGE: ISTOCK

COVID-19 FALLOUT

9 WHAT? The Sovereign Grooming Academy.

WHEN? Opened in January.

WHERE? Glasgow city centre – sharing a building with a new Sovereign Grooming hair and barbering studio.

WHO? Run by experienced barber and hairdresser Kyle, alongside marketing expert Ryan Crighton.

HOW LONG? Students at the academy can expect to work towards their SVQ Level 2 in barbering in 15 weeks.

Courses are accredited by SQA, Kyle adds.

HOW MUCH? £4999 per student.

HOW MANY? Kyle says he hopes around 600 barbers and

stylists will graduate from the school in the next 10 years.

WHY? The full-time intensive course aims to nurture ‘the modern barber’, Kyle explains. ‘There’s a lot of barbering courses that are very much focused on clipper work, which is obviously important when it comes to men’s hair. But you need to be able to do a little bit of everything – a hybrid of traditional barbering and hairdressing techniques. My motivation was to deliver a course that provides a bit more than the standard.’

WHAT’S NEW? Kyle is keen for students at the academy to

BARBERING

BEYOND THE CLIPPERS A new academy heralds the next generation of barbers with a mission to teach modern techniques, applicable skills and social media savviness. Owner Kyle Ross tells us more.

CODE OF CONDUCT The NHBF code of conduct states: ‘All members of your team [should] have industryrecognised training, experience and regulated qualifications for the services or treatments they provide and the equipment and tools they use as detailed in our qualifications and age restrictions guide.’

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NEW S T HE CU T

be ready for a career in any aspect of the industry.

With hair photography, stage presentation and session styling on the curriculum in addition to technical hair, beard and razor skills, graduates will gain all-round skills, he says.

‘There are loads of different avenues; not just working behind the chair. Understanding photography, working at fashion weeks, even the way you market yourself is important these days.

Social media and using it effectively is one of the most important elements [of the industry].’

WHAT ELSE? As well as training aspiring barbers and stylists, the project has created 20 initial job opportunities.

Find out more at sovereign-grooming.com

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NEW S T HE CU T

BEAUTY

New skin colour course SOCIAL MEDIA

IMAGES: ISTOCK

TOP 100 INFLUENCERS 2022 OPEN FOR ENTRIES Following on from last year’s success, the NHBF’s hair and beauty industry Top 100 Influencers list is back for 2022.

From barbers, hairdressers and beauty therapists to nail technicians, make-up artists and aestheticians, who do you think are the most influential individuals in the industry on social media? Let us know by voting for your favourites.

The nominations are open to NHBF Members and non-members who fit within the following criteria: z A professional currently working in the hairdressing, barbering, beauty, wellbeing or aesthetics industries z Applicants should have an applicable qualification in the industry they are working in, from a regulated awarding organisation or equivalent continual experience working in the industry (five years or more).

A list of 250 names will be given to our partners running the Influencer Index campaign to analyse the nominations based on independent data metrics: z Followers – the number of people following the nominees z Engagement – the number of mentions, shares, links and impressions of the nominees’ posts z Reach – how many people have seen the nominees’ posts.

Nominations can be made at surveymonkey.co.uk/r/top100-2022 The closing date is 29 July 2022, with the final Top 100 list revealed on 7 November.

Share on socials that you’ve nominated by using #NHBFTop100influencers

The Black Skin Directory has launched a global interactive training platform on treating skin of colour.

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The new course – ‘A practical guide to treating skin of colour’ – covers a wide range of subjects, including the anatomy and physiology of skin of colour, managing common cosmetic concerns, and cultural issues.

Spanning 33 lessons, the platform provides skin therapists and beauty professionals with accredited knowledge about managing and treating skin of colour within their practice. It also hosts a library of educational articles and resources to enhance learning.

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For more details on the course, go to bit.ly/BSD-course

NHBF CALENDAR

Where you will find us in 2022

12

3-4

10

25-26

8-10

APRIL

JULY

SEPTEMBER

OCTOBER

Pro Beauty London

Barberfest Brighton

Pro Beauty Manchester

Salon International London

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THE BU SI N E SS F IN A N C E S

KEEPING UP WITH COSTS

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21 term profitability and growth, but mustn’t disrupt your services.

Variable costs

How can the hair and beauty sector manage outgoing expenses to future-proof businesses?

he cost of running a salon or barbershop became clear during the multiple Covid-19 lockdowns. Businesses lost, on average, 45% of turnover in 2020, and social distancing measures meant they were operating at about 70% of capacity when lockdown first ended.

The Coronavirus Job Retention

WORDS ANNA SCOTT

Scheme (furlough), Bounce Back Loan Scheme and other grants supported hair and beauty businesses while their doors were closed. The grants that Emma Mulvihill, owner and manager of the Scissor Psychologist in Chester, received from the local council made a big difference. ‘They allowed us to plan for the future and gave us confidence that we would open again,’ she says.

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For Emma, keeping up with business costs isn’t just for unusual circumstances. ‘We are always looking to see how we can be more cost efficient, but never compromise on offering quality services and products. Looking at the bigger picture, it shows!’

Any business needs to keep track of outgoing costs if it is to survive and thrive. Managing expenses and lowering costs can improve long-

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F IN AN C ES T HE BUS I N ES S

Tracking the money spent on stock, products, equipment and so on can lead to savings. For Steve Hilliard Salons in Luton and Ampthill, ordering stock weekly avoids wastage and keeps weekly spend low.

‘We buy what we need each week,’ owner Steve Hilliard says.

‘How do you know where you are going to be in a month? Salons have seen more cancellations, so you are not going to need as much stock.

We never buy deals unless it’s an opening deal for a new retail range.’

It’s worth talking to suppliers about stock, according to Andrew Barraclough, director of accountancy firm Salonfrog.

‘You’d be surprised what discounts and incentives they have to keep you. But shop around – don’t feel the need to be loyal to a particular supplier.’

NO SALON SHOULD BE PAYING FULL RATES IN 2022-23 – SPEAK TO YOUR LOCAL AUTHORITY Fixed costs When it comes to fixed costs such as rent, utilities, broadband and phone lines, and web or SEO provider, Edward Hemmings, creative director and director of education at Alan d Hairdressing in London, suggests looking at bills and suppliers. ‘It’s easy to change and the savings add up,’ he says. Andrew suggests using a broker who can shop around and has access to utility bill discounts that might not be widely available.

The coming months are not going to be easy. ‘For fixed costs like electricity and gas, the only way is up,’ says Steve, who is also an NHBF salon business coach and author of

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TOP TIPS

MANAGING YOUR COSTS z Look at your costs regularly – weekly, if possible ‘Your money comes in gently each day from clients but goes out in spikes. Your staff, your landlord and HMRC want paying today, and if you can’t, you’re in trouble,’ says Andrew.

‘Watch your cash like a hawk.’ z Look at every detail Edward’s salon swapped disposable and recyclable towels for reusables. ‘We were staggered by the cost saving and it’s better for the environment,’ he says. z If you borrow money, make sure the interest is as low as possible and pay off high interest loans first ‘We took a Bounce Back loan and paid it back – we didn’t know how long the pandemic was going to last.

Lots of salons have had refits, which is great, but everything needs to be paid back and if the figures were tight before the pandemic, it will be harder to pay back the loans,’ says Steve.

THE BU SI N E SS F IN A N C E S

MOST SALONS GET TO 1PM OR 2PM ON A THURSDAY BEFORE THEY COVER THEIR RUNNING COSTS

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F IN AN C ES T HE BUS I N ES S

Do Something Different in your Salon Today! ‘The big one this month [April] is rates – but I don’t think we are going to see rents increased.’

Again, Andrew suggests talking to suppliers. ‘Speak to your landlord. It’s currently a renter’s market, with commercial landlords under pressure to ensure premises are let,’ he says.

‘Ensure you’re taking advantage of business rates discounts. Rules in the four nations are slightly different, but no salon should be paying full rates in 2022-23 – speak to your local authority.’

Glen Foster, director of small business and accounting partners, UK and Ireland, at accounting software provider

Xero, says entering fixed-term licences or paying for a costly upfront software package is outdated. ‘Modern software packages are usually sold on a monthly basis, commonly without any long-term commitment. Software updates and data backups are managed by the provider,’ he adds.

RESOURCES FOR BUSINESS z NHBF blog – Cashflow confidence for your salon or barbershop: nhbf.co.uk/cashflow z NHBF blog – Grow your salon or barbershop profits and business: nhbf.co.uk/salon-profitable z Bookkeeping and accounting for self-employed hairdressers and beauty salon owners: bit.ly/bookkeeping-and-accounting-guide

Keeping track It’s crucial to budget and even have a cashflow forecast (see How to budget, below). ‘Budgeting and forecasting are especially important for start-ups,’ says Glen. ‘Keeping track of outgoing costs is crucial – if it outweighs the money coming in, the business won’t survive.’

z Create a small business budget in five simple steps: bit.ly/five-budget-tips

CHECKLIST

HOW TO BUDGET

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Compare what you actually spend with your budget ‘Being without a budget is like setting sail in a boat without steering it: you don’t know where you’ll end up,’ says Andrew.

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Put away money for tax ‘If you put 20% of turnover away a week, that covers VAT and corporation tax,’ says Steve.

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Set your budgets based on your forecasting, bookings, stock and fixed outgoings ‘I give our stock managers a budget every week. When I put that into my Excel spreadsheet, it calculates my percentage of professional and retail stock. This saves thousands of pounds a year,’ says Steve.

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Budget weekly, monthly or annually ‘Salons and barbershops should know how much money they make after time and materials for each service,’ Glen says.

them to become more competitive, or look for ways to make savings on materials and equipment,’ says Glen.

There are several ways salon owners can keep track: from accounting software and apps to spreadsheets and account books. Emma uses a local accountant who knows the sector, while Steve uses Shortcuts software. Andrew points out that, given HMRC is encouraging businesses to go digital, cloud-based systems such as Xero or Quickbooks are easy to use and inexpensive at about £25 a month.

‘Weekly is ideal, but keep on top of your figures monthly at the least,’ he adds. ‘Things can drift quickly, and you need to be able to take action as soon as they do.’

‘Knowing the profit and loss on each job can empower salons and barbershops to smartly increase prices to achieve financial goals, decrease

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Knowing your break-even What is critical, says Steve, is understanding at what point in the week your salon starts making a profit.

‘Most salons get to 1pm or 2pm on a Thursday before they cover their running costs,’ he says.

Steve ties this in with how he manages staff: incentivising them with targets based on productivity, offering promotions and increasing their hourly rate – rather than paying commission – based on rebooking figures, and making treatment and product sales inclusive. ‘It’s about what stylists generate in an hour, not how many clients they see,’ he says.

‘Every day I put what that day has turned over into a spreadsheet. Next to it I put what we took,’ he says. ‘If it says £1500 and we take £2000, happy days.

If it says £1500 and we take £1000, what’s happened? You need to know what you are bringing in. With that you can work out your break-even.’

A good way of thinking about costs is to think about the best return on every pound you spend. ‘Think of costs as an investment,’ says Andrew. ‘It’s not always best to go for the cheapest option or cut costs in the wrong area.

Make sure you get the best value for your money.’

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THE BU SI N E SS T H R IVIN G BA R B E R S

TH R I VI N G BAR B ER S T HE BUS I N ES S

Three top barbers share what it takes to run a successful profitable business with excellent client retention.

You need to run your business like a business, which means doing all the important things that go into running it. This includes paying for the help around you. I’ve invested in a team to help me grow my business, including a publicist, and two receptionists who work on the shop floor and help with reposting my content on all the different social media platforms.

REACHING THE

People read reviews

MARK MACIVER Owner of SliderCuts, an award-winning barbershop in London

Spreading the word You need to promote yourself on Google and social media such as Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest. You may be a great barber but if you don’t get the word out, you won’t build up clients, as nobody will know who you are. Your business needs to be where everybody is.

WORDS KELLIE SMITH

I

t takes hard work and passion to get to the top of the UK barbering industry. From taking time to listen to customers to keeping up with changing technology, we speak to three business owners to get their tips on growing your client base and earning good reviews and ratings.

People do look at reviews when they’re buying something or going somewhere, so getting good reviews for your business is important. If someone leaves a bad review, we ask what went wrong with their experience and we work hard to resolve it. Sometimes it may be a misunderstanding, and other times it can be a mistake on our behalf. In that case, we would refund the customer and sometimes compensate them with a free haircut as well. It’s important to be honest when you’re at fault and to rectify a problem when it arises.

TOP TIP

IMAGE: ISTOCK

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Be willing to invest

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Don’t be afraid to pass costs onto the client. You shouldn’t have any guilt about running a business to make money. When I first became VAT registered, I didn’t feel comfortable adding this to client’s bills.

In the end, I sent an email to existing clients to explain that I was putting prices up.

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ANDREW CANNON Co-founder of Ruffians, five award-winning barbershops in Edinburgh and London

Look after your staff It’s important to make sure everyone in the team is challenged, motivated and rewarded. This will push everyone to come up with new ideas that benefit the business and clients. If staff are having fun doing what they love and they’re working hard, then everything will flow from there. Your clients will keep coming back as they will enjoy the experience.

Focus on the client perspective Sometimes we get members of the team to sit down in the client seat so they can see what the client is experiencing. You never really get to sit down in your own barber chair and see what looks right and what doesn’t.

If something is wrong, then you can fix it.

Continuing to evolve and grow We’re not here for Instagram fame – we’re not here for anyone apart from ourselves and our clients. We’ve stayed true to that, which has helped us to grow and be recognised. There’s a real authenticity, desire and pride to do what we do. We want to continue to evolve and push the boundaries – I don’t think we’ve made it yet. In the future, I want to TOP TIP create a legacy and be Be true to yourself. a source of pride in Don’t look at British hairdressing.

Don’t be afraid to make mistakes It’s good to be brave and give things a go.

If it doesn’t work out, dust yourself down and move on.

what everyone else is doing.

Think about what you want to do and achieve, then go for it.

25

THE BU SI N E SS T H R IVIN G BA R B E R S

Increasing your ratings

PAUL MCGEORGE Owner of Barnwell Barbers, a top-rated barbershop in Cambridge TOP TIPS

DOS AND DON’TS FOR SUCCESS DO

‘Do take advice and be open-minded, as it can stop you from making mistakes that you didn’t necessarily need to make’ – Andrew Cannon

DON'T

‘Don’t get caught up in the hype. You see barbers become celebrities and they can forget they’re there to serve the client. It’s important to stay grounded’ – Mark Maciver

To get to the top, you need to provide great customer service. This means listening to each of your clients and building a rapport with them. Get to know them on a personal level and gauge what they want. For example, some clients want to talk and others want to have their hair cut in peace and quiet. Tailor the service to each person.

Offer walk-in appointments Men often prefer to walk into a barbershop rather than book appointments, so it’s good to offer both options. We get about 500 to 600 walk-ins a week, alongside our booked appointments. This has helped us to build client retention and stopped us losing business if a client who has booked an appointment doesn’t turn up.

Don’t give up If you learn from your mistakes and move forward, then it’s okay. You only fail if you give up on something. We all make mistakes – after all, we’re only human. One of the mistakes I made when first starting out was not being organised. I’ve since learned that it’s important to do stock checks and plan your time carefully.

TOP TIP Move forward with technology as it’s constantly changing. For example, invest in new razors, clippers and hairdryers.

CHECKLIST

KEEP UP YOUR FIVE-STAR SUCCESS z ‘Look after your clients, get to know them and make sure they’re happy’ – Paul McGeorge z ‘Remember you’re there to serve the customer. They’re paying you for a service, so focus on delivering it well’ – Mark Maciver IMAGE: ISTOCK

26

‘Do maintain high standards of cleanliness and work hard to keep clients safe during the pandemic’ – Paul McGeorge

Understand each client’s needs

If you’re only on one star, you need to identify what’s going wrong and up your game. And if you’re on four stars, you need to improve what you are already doing, making sure every client goes away happy. Ask them to write a review to help bring you up to five stars. If I get a bad review, I deal with it straight away – I phone the client and try to rectify it. If you do get a bad review, don’t let it get you down but resolve it with the client.

z ‘You’ve got to love and have pride in what you do. If your team is happy, then your clients will be satisfied’ – Andrew Cannon

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CHILDREN A ND TEENS THE B U SI NESS

THE GENERATION How can the hair and beauty profession encourage young people into good hair and skin routines?

WORDS STEVE SMETHURST

27

IMAGE: SHUTTERSTOCK

P

uberty has a dramatic impact on the body, and the hair and beauty profession can help make it less stressful for young people, says Candice Gardner, education manager at Dermalogica.

‘The surge of sex and growth hormones at puberty affects sebum secretion, giving rise to oilier skin, blackheads and breakouts.

The changes can also affect skin’s pH and microbiome and, with fluctuating hormone levels, skin can be difficult to regulate.’

START YOUNG

EDUCATE CHILDREN AND PARENTS ‘Star Street in York is a salon for children. We take the stress out of appointments by gently introducing children to haircuts, working with parents and carers to resolve any issues, such as regular gentle brushing and not over- or under-washing or using harsh products. It is important to educate parents and carers so they can introduce a self-care routine from an early age.

‘Our industry can work with parents and children to educate them about self-care. We can teach them to be comfortable in their own skin and not feel pressured to look a certain way, by focusing on their uniqueness and encouraging them to work with what they have.’

The Star Street team: owner Dawn Murphy, manager Sam Skolsky and senior stylist Karen Teer

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THE BU SI N E SS CH IL DR E N A N D T E E N S

It’s also around this time that teens and young adults start to experiment with make-up and hairstyles, often using products that clog pores or are overly harsh. Problems can often stem from teenagers not removing their make-up or body hair effectively.

‘It can lead to rashes and sensitivity, either from alkaline products that soften the hair and skin, or from shaving tools like razors that remove the top layers of skin,’ says Candice. ‘This can be further complicated when facial hair and inflamed breakouts co-occur.’

Add stress from school or exams, social and peer pressures and having to be ‘Insta ready’ for that perfect selfie, and it’s no wonder hair and skin challenges affect a very large proportion of teens.

TOP TIPS

HOW CAN THE PROFESSION HELP?

1

Keep it clean ‘I often see issues with teens and children using the wrong products on their hair,’ says Rosie Walker, director of Platinum Rose Salon in Canvey Island, Essex. ‘Their hair will be tacky and sticky. It’s almost always down to product build-up. Children especially don’t always rinse their hair properly, resulting in products sitting on the hair.’ Rosie advises her younger clients to try to attend the salon regularly and receive a hair cleansing service to strip the hair of

impurities, followed by a conditioning treatment.

2

Neaten nails ‘We offer mini-manicures where we file and shape little ones’ nails, encouraging them not to bite them, as this can lead to bad nail health or even infections,’ Rosie adds.

3

Pore-fect their routine For Bev Hayward, joint owner of Bute House Aesthetics in Newmarket, Suffolk, the most common teen skin issues are blocked pores or blackheads. ‘The mixture of oily skin and dirt building up in pores can be hard to remove with a simple face wash or scrub.

More work needed

We like to do a couple of mini deep-clean facials using microdermabrasion and a blackhead removal tool to get the skin nice and clean, ready for them to continue with a good routine at home,’ she says.

4

Tailor advice Bute House set up a Holiday Skin Club after being approached by parents looking for advice for their teens. ‘We start by helping them to discover their skin type, then discuss the products they use currently and their ingredients. We advise them to choose products with a high volume of natural ingredients for sensitive skin,’ says Bev.

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Rosie Walker, director of Platinum Rose Salon in Canvey Island, Essex, firmly believes that the profession already plays a huge role in educating teens and children with regard to hair and nails (see How can the profession help?, facing page). ‘But the future of children’s treatment needs to develop,’ she says. ‘I don’t believe there is enough advice out there currently.’

For Candice, an important step is to dispel myths, such as that someone with oily skin or hair is ‘dirty’. She also advises screening products for ingredients that cause breakouts, accelerate oil production, clog pores or contribute to sensitivity – a problem exacerbated by mask-wearing since Covid-19 emerged. Her advice for teens is to ‘do things regularly and don’t cherry pick products. Skin likes consistency.

‘Ultimately, teens need to be reassured that they are not alone and that some simple strategies can help them through the changes.’

5

Know your ingredients Skincare doesn’t have to be expensive – you just need to know what you are looking for, Bev adds. ‘Salicylic acid, for example, can soften and loosen blocked pores. It’s plant-derived and a natural antiinflammatory, which shrinks the pores, helping to prevent bacteria getting in and blackheads or spots forming.’

6

Prevention is key The importance of applying a good quality SPF to prevent skin cancer and reduce premature ageing is also a crucial message to discuss with younger clients, says Bev.

IMAGE: GETTY

28

CH I L DR EN AN D T EEN S T HE BUS I N ES S

TEENS NEED TO BE REASSURED THAT THEY ARE NOT ALONE AND THAT SIMPLE STRATEGIES CAN HELP THEM THROUGH THE CHANGES

RESOURCES z NHBF fact sheet to support hair and beauty professionals to protect and promote the welfare of under16s and vulnerable adults: nhbf.co.uk/ qualifications

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KNOW THE LAW

THE LEGAL DOS AND DON’TS OF WORKING WITH CHILDREN Under the Botulinum Toxin and Cosmetic Fillers (Children) Act it is illegal to provide either procedure to under-18s for cosmetic reasons.

Hair dye, including dye for brow and lash tints, must not be applied to anyone under 16, or used by any employees under the age of 16. You cannot carry out an allergy alert test on anyone under the age of 16 and your insurance will not cover you if you go ahead.

Under GDPR, children under 16 are a special case: you may need consent from a parent or guardian to keep and use personal data about children.

Hairdressers and beauty technicians must ensure services and treatments are safe and appropriate, and that the individual wants to have the treatment and/or services.

You should always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, protocols and guidelines.

29

THE BU SI N E SS W H AT’S IN YO U R P R O D U CTS?

WH AT’S I N YOUR P R O D U CTS? T HE BUS I N ES S

to follow manufacturers’ instructions on testing before use, correctly mix and apply the products, and consult clients to find out their previous exposure and risk, Debbie says.

In the nail sector, ‘everything except products such as hand cream and oils is classed as hazardous, so it’s essential the nail professional knows what the ingredients are’, says Marian Newman of Marian Newman Nails, chair of the Federation of Nail Professionals. During a full consultation for new clients, important questions include whether they have had previous nail services and whether they have had a potential allergic reaction, Marian says.

The client consultation is also a time to find out about lifestyle choices, so staff can match products to suit their needs. ‘The consultation is the most important part of your service. If you don’t get it right, you won’t find out what your client likes and doesn’t like,’ says stylist and salon owner Anne Veck, of Anne Veck Oxford.

To find out more about ingredients, Anne advises that salon owners and staff do their research. ‘You need to educate yourself, and that information is just a couple of clicks away on the internet,’ she says.

INGREDIENTS

A rise in allergies and customer awareness means it’s even more vital to look at your product labels.

A

mong the many labels we can find on our hair and beauty products are ‘organic’, ‘natural’, ‘clean’ and ‘cruelty free’.

These reflect the demands of consumers, who have high expectations not only about what products can do for them, but also the suitability for their lifestyles. That’s why it’s vital for salon and barbershop staff to know what’s in products, what the ingredients do and what wider effects they can have – both for their own benefit and that of their clients.

‘Clients want to know not just if their product smells nice, but also what’s actually in it,’ says David Antony, director of the David Antony salon in Southsea.

The increased use of cosmetics to enhance beauty and reduce ageing, and the post-pandemic rise in allergies, are further reasons why ‘it’s important to know and understand the ingredients in products, what they do, how to safely use them and any contraindications’, says Debbie Digby, founder of Feathers Salon Group and CEO of Passion4hair, a distribution and education academy. With hair colourants, for example, it’s important

WATCH OUT

CHEMICALS TO AVOID

1

Ammonia: The most common pH-adjuster in hair colour. Frequent exposure can cause serious skin complications, and damage to the eyes, liver, kidneys and lungs.

2

Formaldehyde: A preservative linked to many illnesses, such as eye and throat irritation and asthma, and a known cancercausing chemical.

Common ingredients

IMAGE: ISTOCK

30

WORDS KATHY OXTOBY

hair and skin condition. Natural alternatives include saponin, glycosides and sulfosuccinates,’ she adds.

Silicones: Used to enhance hair feel, texture and shine, and to give skin products a soft finish. There are concerns that they leave hair heavy and greasy, and are not environmentally friendly. ‘But not all silicones are bad!’ says Debbie. ‘I’m a fan of silica, which is in the silicone category but is derived from sand, so is natural.’

Parabens: Used as preservatives to lengthen a product’s shelf life. Natural alternatives include citric acids, aloe, potassium, sorbate and essential oils.

One common claim on hair and beauty products is their ‘natural’ qualities. But what does that

According to the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA), there is ‘a huge variety of different ingredients that can be used across hair and beauty products, all of which have unique properties and are included for a specific purpose’.

Common ingredients include: Sulphates: Used as cleansers in products such as shampoos and skincare. ‘Consumers like “lather” and this is why manufacturers choose sulphates, along with their availability and low cost’, says Debbie. But sulphates ‘can be harsh, affecting

3

Polyethylene glycols (PEGs): Synthetic petrochemicals found in many cosmetics, including haircare and colour products. When used in large amounts, PEGs make it easier for other harmful chemicals to penetrate skin, making you vulnerable to illnesses and allergic reactions.

4

Synthetic fragrance: May contain chemicals that are full of toxins, mimic the body’s hormones and disrupt its normal functions.

5

Pigments: For clients sensitive to pigments such as paraphenylenediamine (PPD), choose hair colour low in or free from PPD. simplyorganicbeauty.com

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THE BU SI N E SS W H AT’S IN YO U R P R O D U CTS?

RESOURCES z NHBF going green blog: nhbf.co.uk/blog/sustainable z NHBF allergy guide: nhbf.co.uk/allergy-guide

32 GET THE FACTS

UNDERSTANDING LABELS z Cosmetics are legally required to have, printed or labelled on packaging, a complete ingredients list, the contents, any necessary warnings on how to use the product safely, and a ‘period after opening’ or ‘best before date’ (if required). z The industry has agreed on a common naming system: the International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients. z The same ingredient names are used in every European country, and most countries worldwide, to help users identify products with ingredients to which they know they are allergic or sensitive. z Ensure staff understand the labels by training them on what they need to know.

More at: thefactsabout.co.uk/ understanding-your-label

mean? Caroline Rainsford, the CTPA’s head of scientific services, says there’s no legal definition of the term ‘natural’.

‘It’s therefore important for manufacturers to clearly explain to their consumers what they mean by “natural” and/or “organic”,’ she adds.

As for just how natural the products are, a 2021 study by The Derm Review found that out of the 100 best-selling natural products, most (58%) included at least one synthetic ingredient.

Debbie says what’s important is that natural ingredients are present in quantities ‘big enough to do the job – no “fluff stuff for the bottle”. We need to ask: is the ingredient present in a quality and quantity capable of doing its job?’

And a natural ingredient isn’t automatically a good thing, says Anne.

Palm oil, for example, is a natural ingredient used in everything from shampoo to lipstick – but in some cases it is not grown sustainably and is a driver of deforestation, destroying the habitat of endangered species.

Another popular label is ‘vegan’.

‘We’re finding that a lot more clients are asking for vegan products, and we’re

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able to satisfy those needs as we stock the full Pureology range,’ says David.

But vegan does not always mean ‘natural’ or ‘plant derived’. Debbie says: ‘With consumers demanding more and more lifestyle and value-based products, it’s important to understand formulations and marketing claims.

Well-informed consumers know their stuff, so it’s important to be able to answer questions accurately or have the confidence to say: “That is a good question, one that I need to refer to the chemist that formulated the product”.’

Faced with so many labels and marketing claims, the choices can be overwhelming. Debbie advises ‘aligning yourself with companies that are transparent about their products and manufacturing and support you in your ongoing development of your knowledge’.

Building on that knowledge is crucial, both for client safety and the salon’s reputation. As David says: ‘We need to keep doing our product research. It’s our duty to know what’s in the products we’re putting on people’s hair and skin.’

IMAGE: ISTOCK

z CTPA: thefactsabout.co.uk

THE BU SI N E SS D I VE R S IF Y IN G

DI VER S IF YIN G T HE BUS I N ES S

BEYOND THE SALON

Traditional salon work isn’t the only way to use your talents – we look at three alternative options for a career in hair.

34

IMAGES: GETTY / SHUTTERSTOCK

WORDS MATT LAMY

W

FUNERAL HAIR TV AND FILM HAIR

ADAM JAMES PHILLIPS With two Emmy awards for Downton Abbey and Bridgerton and a mind-blowing list of credits, Adam James Phillips knows what it takes to be successful in film and TV hair: a bit of luck and a lot of hard work. But, he says, it’s well within the reach of NHBF Members.

‘It’s realistic and achievable, and this is the time to do it. There is such demand for content and such a backlog of productions that our industry is incredibly buoyant,’ Adam says.

‘The skills used in a salon are transferable.

You might need some other skills – like putting a wig on – but many people in the industry have a salon background. I think the best route is to work in theatre first – the West End is an amazing training ground.

‘Be prepared to work hard. When I meet people who are not involved in film and TV, they think it’s all glamorous. There is glamour, like meeting stars or travelling, but you also work hard and do long hours.

‘I was working on the Captain Marvel sequel and we were doing long days on one scene. I was leaving my house at 3am and getting back at 8.30 or 9pm. If you sign on to a longrunning production like Bridgerton, that was nine months where I signed my life over. But the financial reward is good, and I love the job.’

Adam’s Disney fairytale

orking in a salon has a lot of things going for it: camaraderie, interactions with clients, and a reliable source of income. However, it isn’t the only place you can work with hair. We meet three stylists who have taken their careers in exciting directions.

‘I’ve always been a Disney fan and was hired to work on crowd hair for Disney’s live-action Cinderella film,’ Adam says. ‘I was involved in the ballroom scene, and it was the most fabulous set. Lily James, who I knew from Downton Abbey, was playing Cinderella.

‘I remember an amazing moment, at the bottom of the staircase. Lily was at the top and she recognised me and shouted ‘Ad!’ Then she ran down in her gown to meet me. The child inside me’s heart exploded when I realised Cinderella was running down to see me.’

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CHRISTINE MARSHALL While some stylists offer services for funeral attendees, there are also those who prepare the hair of the deceased. During lockdown, this provided extra or alternative income for some – but for Christine Marshall of Power Cuts Urmston salon, Manchester, it was just a nice thing to do.

‘I found out that a customer of over 20 years had passed away. His wife wanted to see if I could come to the funeral. She said she tried to get him to the salon before he died, but he wasn’t able to and the funeral director was going to cut his hair,’ Christine says.

25% UK films account for almost 25% of global box office revenues

‘He was quite particular with his hair and there was no way I was going to let anyone mess it up for him, so I stepped out of my comfort zone, visited him where he was lying at home and did a final cut.

‘I sprayed his hair down and worked as I usually would, and we used puppy pads around his head so hair didn’t get in the coffin. I couldn’t get to the back, so only cut what could be seen.

I chatted to him and his wife as though he was still alive, and when I finished, we removed the pads and his hair looked just as it would if he had been in the salon.

‘I didn’t take any money – I didn’t feel I could, and I was happy to do this for a long-term client. Initially, it was a strange experience, but if we went into another lockdown, maybe I could work for a funeral parlour.’

7000

The number of funeral homes in the UK, two-thirds of which are independent firms

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THE BU SI N E SS D I VE R S IF Y IN G

HOW TO…

TRY SOMETHING DIFFERENT How do you get into a new line of work? In the case of Steven Austin, he identified a niche and carved it out himself. But with hair for film or funerals, there are obvious in-roads. z Hair for film: Adam suggests prospective stylists contact production firms and consider theatre as their entry point.

‘Expect to start as a trainee or junior, but there is a lot of work available for good stylists,’ he says. z Hair for funerals: With many funeral homes being independent businesses, there is scope for proactive stylists to find work locally. Find your local member of the National Society of Allied and Independent Funeral Directors (SAIF) at saif.org.uk/ members-search

STEVEN AUSTIN When it comes to fantastically coloured human hair wigs, Bolton-based Steven Austin – Manic Panic ambassador and British Hair and Beauty Award winner – has carved out a niche and is widely regarded as the world’s foremost expert.

‘I’ve always been fascinated by colour, and I was watching Ru Paul’s Drag Race when I realised there wasn’t anyone doing specifically human hair wigs for the drag queens,’ Stephen says.

‘I spent time and money making and buying wigs from different suppliers to see which ones would colour best. By the

12

The number of countries with their own Drag Race TV show

z Other areas: These examples are not the only alternatives – take hairdressing for the homeless, for example, educating prisoners to be barbers, or even hairdressing for fashion shoots. So what are you waiting for?

LET US KNOW Get in touch with us via email, phone or on our social media channels if you work in other areas of the hair or beauty industry. We’d love to find out more.

IMAGES: GETTY / SHUTTERSTOCK

36

WIGS

time I’d settled on a supplier, I’d already made a name for myself with the Drag Race queens. It snowballed from there.

‘The demand is huge. I’d say 95% of my work goes to the US, Brazil, Germany, France, Australia and around the world. I spend 50% of my time doing wigs, 50% clients.

It’s great financially, and I’ve gained a huge amount of recognition.

‘Working with wigs is no different to clients – it’s just that wigs don’t talk back. It’s the consultations that are harder.

Because I’m sending things across the world, consultations aren’t face-to-face, so I ask for as much reference stuff as they can give me.

But the rest of it is just as if you were colouring a client.’

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THE BU SI N E SS SOC IA L M E D IA T R E N D S

SOCI AL MED IA T R EN D S T HE BUS I N ES S

TACKLING

AUTHENTIC CONTENT Elliot Forbes

BARBER WITH MORE THAN 7 MILLION FOLLOWERS ON TIKTOK

In the latest of our social media trends series, we look at how you can use the video platform to show off your business or brand.

A

WORDS HOLLIE EWERS

social media newcomer that was only launched in the UK in 2017, TikTok is now one of the most popular platforms for sharing short-form mobile videos. With a mission to ‘inspire creativity and bring joy’, it has more than a billion users worldwide and is the fourth most popular social media app. Used smartly, it can promote your business or brand and get clients through the door.

But how? And where do you start?

About TikTok z The video-sharing app allows

users to create content between 15 seconds and 10 minutes long

that can be shared directly from your phone. z As a social network, users can create a variety of videos, from popular and trending challenges and dances to more business-type examples, like a Q&A or ‘how to’. z Music, effects, filters, stickers and text can be added to videos to enhance them. z Other users can follow you, like and comment on your videos and you can respond directly to comments via text or video, and share if you want. z Live streaming is also available – in 2021 TikTok upgraded its live streaming with new features including scheduling, live Q&As, going live with a friend and more.

IMAGES: ALAMY / SHUTTERSTOCK

38

If you’re new to TikTok I suggest spending at least an hour a day watching content. You need to really consume TikTok before you’re able to understand it and create your own content.

Know your audience – are you looking to create content to get people through your door or to promote your education? Is your audience potential new clients or other hair and beauty professionals?

Using the pin for your top videos is a great idea to begin with – it is a great introduction and insight to you and your business.

Good content isn’t necessarily beautifully produced – unlike Instagram, which strives for perfection

63% of global users are under 30

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BLOWING UP BEAUTY

and looking good, TikTok is more authentic, and if it’s good content it will be seen.

Focus on providing value – whether through hairstyling hacks, product reviews, answering questions or simply entertaining. It’s not about the ‘hard sell’ but building your brand and showing your value as a professional.

Where to start? Why not take a photo of work you’ve done, and then just do a voiceover, or a little video talking about that haircut and why you decided to layer that area or use that colour?

Sophie Freeman & Lia Caesar

BUSINESS DIRECTOR AND ACCOUNT MANAGER AT FANBYTES

ELLIOT’S TIPS

ACCOUNTS TO FOLLOW FOR GREAT CONTENT z Barber Vic Blends: @vicblends z Airline Ryanair: @ryanair z Entrepreneur Gary Vaynerchuk: @garyvee z Photographer Greg Williams: @gregwilliamstt

59% of global users are female

60

UK users spend 60 minutes a day on the app

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Sophie Freeman and Lia Caesar, business director and account manager in the fashion and beauty division at social media and influencer marketing agency Fanbytes, explain why TikTok has had such an influence on beauty and marketing.

Sophie: ‘The change in the beauty industry has been colossal. We have seen a change from the airbrushed, “perfect” images of models to real skin, visible acne, blemishes and scarring. Generation Z and millennials want to see a product working on a face that they can relate to, or see how certain make-up will enhance their features in a realistic way. TikTok is the perfect platform for this.’

Lia: ‘The nature of TikTok’s algorithm on the For You page completely levelled the playing field. Organic brand visibility was no longer limited to how many people were following your brand, high-end production and huge marketing budgets, but rather how many people genuinely engaged with your content. The subsequent ripple effect of TikTok’s machine learning technology pushes your content out further to people with similar interests and behaviours.’

3bn

downloads from TikTok in June 2021

7th

most downloaded app of the 2010s

39

THE BU SI N E SS SOC IA L M E D IA T R E N D S

FIND YOUR NICHE Chlöe Swift

ALGORITHM HACKS BY CHLÖE AND ELLIOT z You have only 1.5 seconds to capture the viewer’s attention – make sure to try and use the word ‘you’ when you begin, as it can help to promote the video in the TikTok algorithm. z Make use of the in-app font.

40

z Don’t repost your Instagram Reel straight onto TikTok – it’s best to create a video and edit it one way for Instagram and then repurpose and edit the original video for TikTok. Tweak your videos to suit each platform’s audience. z Don’t use more than five hashtags – and don’t use ones like #FYP (For You Page) or #viral, as these won’t help to promote your video. Hashtags that actually relate to your content are much more algorithm-effective, for example #curlyhair if it’s content about curly hair, or #hairtok if it’s a general hair video.

Focus on what you specialise in and create content on it.

Keep it dedicated to your best work and give hints, tips and tricks, showing potential clients what you’re good at.

Make sure you reach local followers with hashtags unique to your area – so create yourself a more relatable hashtag, such as #blowdryKensington, and stick with it.

Batch-create content if it isn’t possible for you to film regularly.

Be clever and see if one long video idea can be cut to create five different pieces of content – maybe a short video on prep and washing, another on cutting, another on colouring, another on styling, and then the final reveal, for example. Then you

z TikTok loves unpolished, genuine content, so you don’t have to get the tripod and lights out – simply put your phone up on a windowsill and create your content. The key is posting creatively and consistently.

CHLÖE’S TIPS

ACCOUNTS TO FOLLOW FOR INSPIRATION z Hairstylist Brylk: @brylkaproject z Barber Elliot Forbes: @elliotforbes z Hairstylist James Earnshaw: @jhair_stylist

RESOURCES

z The ‘For You’ feed on TikTok reflects preferences unique to each user.

The system recommends content by ranking videos based on factors such as the videos you like or share, accounts you follow, comments you post, and content you create. They also consider video information like captions and sounds, hashtags, and device and account settings like language preference and country setting.

TikTok’s Help •Centre: support. tiktok.com/en NHBF social •media marketing calendar: nhbf. co.uk/marketingcalendar

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IMAGE: ISTOCK

HOW TO

HAIRSTYLIST AND GHD EDUCATOR WHO APPEARED IN THE TOP 10 OF THE NHBF’S TOP INFLUENCERS 2021 LIST

could do a longer version showing all the elements together with a voiceover.

The possibilities are endless.

Use questions posed in your comments as ideas for further content – answer them with a new video.

Think about your transitions (ways to reveal something new or next in your videos) and how you can make them more interesting and different.

Notice what content does well – what elements did you use?

See if more content created similarly gets the same results.

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Why cutting back on beauty jargon will lead to better business.

WORDS NATASHA RIGLER

t’s easy to forget that specialist words and expressions used within a profession can leave outsiders puzzled. All industries have their own jargon and the beauty sector is no different.

But although therapists know the difference between glycolic acid peels, rejuvenation lasers and microdermabrasion, clients may be baffled.

The phrase ‘dermal filler’ could leave them scratching their heads and they might wonder exactly how much hair is removed during a ‘Hollywood’ wax.

Words you use might be difficult for clients to understand, which could be detrimental to business.

Alice Kirby, founder of Lockhart Meyer Salon

Marketing, says: ‘Many people feel they have to use jargon to impress and make it sound as though they’re an expert.

‘But the only time jargon is appropriate for a beauty therapist is if they’re entering an award or talking at an industry event.

‘It is important to be clear in the language you use with clients, otherwise they can be left feeling intimidated and confused.

‘If they turn up for a treatment and don’t get what they were expecting, they’ll leave feeling disappointed.’

Up-close advice Face-to-face consultations give therapists the vital opportunity to properly understand a client’s needs before any work begins.

Dr Emma Wedgeworth, consultant dermatologist and

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THE BU SI N E SS BE A U T Y JA R G O N

INDUSTRY IN-SPEAK

CHECKLIST

NOT ALL CLIENTS WANT TO KNOW THE MOLECULAR SCIENCE OF A TREATMENT and runs plain English diploma courses for businesses.

Crystal clear Spokesperson Lee Monks explains: ‘Plain English saves time and money. The idea that jargon impresses anyone is long outdated. You just guarantee confusion among your customers, which means time spent needlessly explaining things. By using plain English from the off, you guarantee clarity and trust.

Get it right first time and your customers will get the message and know that you value them enough to have made the effort.’

Alice finds treatment and price menus on salon websites to be ‘the worst offenders’ for jargon.

Educate staff about the pitfalls of using jargon so everyone is on the same page when responding to enquiries and during consultations Feature clients on your social media – photos, videos and blogs – to showcase specific treatments.

z The Plain English Campaign: plainenglish.co.uk z The NHBF’s Top 100 Influencer winner Caroline Hirons’ beauty jargon cheat sheet: bit.ly/beauty-jargon-cheat-sheet z The NHBF on client consultations: nhbf.co.uk/client-consultation

Give clients clear information sheets to take away following a consultation to reinforce their understanding of treatments Follow up online bookings with a phone call to ensure the client has chosen the correct treatment

RESOURCES

IMPORTANT LESSONS

Look at your treatment list and simplify the language being used to describe each one

Therapists at the Yorkshire College Of Beauty are taught industry jargon. But Vickie Holmes, senior tutor and training manager, stresses: ‘We teach our learners the correct terminology, but then explain that clients are unlikely to know what it all means.

‘For example, they might say, “There is a little bit of erythema there, which is redness of the skin.

This is caused by a rush of blood to the area, bringing with it oxygen and nutrients to feed and nourish the skin.”’

Training focuses heavily on positive body language and communication.

Louise Contini, office manager, explains: ‘We teach learners to ask open questions, so the client can’t just say yes or no and the learners can find out more about the client, their expectations and any medical history that may affect the treatment.

‘We also talk about body language.

If a client is smiling and nodding their head, then you know they understand what they are being told. If they’re looking a bit confused, we tell our learners to question that client a little bit more.’

Vickie adds: ‘Our learners are taught to thoroughly explain everything about a treatment from start to finish before the client gives consent to treatment and signs the consultation.

‘It is important to leave enough time for questions. The client should never feel worried or rushed.’

‘There is often a temptation to make it sound as though a treatment uses the most up-todate and cutting-edge technology, but usually this doesn’t mean anything to anyone,’ she explains.

‘The treatment description should be as clear and as informative as possible, and the pricing should be with it. No one wants a nasty shock at the till.’

Alice advocates ‘what to expect’ descriptions next to treatments to help avoid customer confusion.

Picture perfect Blogs, social media posts and email newsletters can explain procedures in more depth.

Alice suggests using client case studies, as ‘the customer voice is what the layperson understands’.

She adds: ‘If you’re doing thread vein removal, ask them to describe the procedure and how they felt.’

But Alice warns against using manufacturers’ photos of lasers, machines and tools in images and video clips. ‘If you pair those with science jargon, it’s confusing and can even be slightly scary.

‘People want to see before and after real-life results. Just remember to always get consent from the client.’

IT IS IMPORTANT TO LEAVE ENOUGH TIME FOR CLIENT QUESTIONS

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British Skin Foundation spokesperson, speaks at length to her clients before a treatment is picked to ensure there is no confusion.

It can become apparent during a consultation that the procedure a person believes they need may not be the correct one.

‘It is important to use language that is understandable. During a consultation, explain exactly how a procedure might feel, the sort of results that can be expected and what the downtime will be afterwards.

‘Be kind, approachable and not rushed, so the client has the confidence to say if they don’t understand something.’

She adds: ‘Not all clients want to know in great detail the molecular science of a treatment. But it is important to explain how it will tackle their specific skin concern, and what they can expect during and after the treatment.’

The Plain English Campaign wants everyone to have access to clear, concise information,

BEAUT Y JAR G O N T HE BUS I N ES S

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THE I N SPI RAT I O N M O O D B OA R D

MOOD B OAR D T HE I N S P I RAT I ON

3D NAILS

IS IT INSTA GRAM MABLE?

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@hazeldixon Norfolk

BLACK

@eric_basicacrylic Virginia, US

BLUE

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@gelsbybry Shropshire

FRENCH TIPS

@nailchark Leicestershire

BLUE

@charsgelnails_ Bristol

SWIRLS

SWIRLS

@bhambnails London

SWIRLS

@isabelmaynails West Sussex

SWIRLS

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With the top TikTok nail trends revealed for 2022, we take a look at your stylish examples.

COFFIN NAILS

FRENCH TIPS

@gelsbybry Shropshire

@cuteycles.nails.by.emily Wakefield

FRENCH TIPS

@larownails Staffordshire/Cheshire

@thehotblend Milton Keynes/London

@thehotblend Milton Keynes/London

MARBLE

Have you created a style that’s a bit different? Something you're particularly proud of and want to shout about?

Then post a picture to Instagram with the hashtag #salonfocus and your shot could end up on these pages.

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@kuredstudio Newcastle

WH AT' S TR E N D IN G T HE I N S P I RAT I ON

FASHIONABLE OR A FAUX PAS? Whether you embrace them or buck them, we take a look at the latest trends.

OUT OF THIS WORLD

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ANYTHING GOES

IMAGES: SHUTTERSTOCK / GETTY

BACK TO NATURE

The beauty trends making waves this year include ocean-inspired nail art, rhinestone pedicures and crystal ts – the social eye make-up, according to Pinterest Predic are being jazzed media platform’s trend report. Even teeth increased by up, with the search term ‘tooth gem’ having ue to shine, contin will -up 85%. And while crystal eye make e for 2022 choic of tone gems the be to ted pearls are predic to nails, ware home and across all boards – from jewellery report the in s theme inent prom Other hair. beauty and ed by landscapes. include ‘nailscapes’, with nail designs inspir

A few standout trends often dominate women’s hair each year, but 2022 seems to be embracing everything.

There are numerous bobs, from the ‘soft curve bob’ to the ‘boy bob’, as well as different pixie cut hybrids, with the ‘bixie’ (bob and pixie) and ‘mixie’ (mullet and pixie) spotted on celebs and trending across socials.

Generation Z’s love of all things 90s and 00s has resulted in ‘space buns’ and ‘high puff hairstyles’ appearing in Pinterest’s latest trend report, while ‘bottleneck bangs’ seem to be replacing last year’s ‘curtain bangs’.

‘Metabeauty’ – beauty in the Metaverse – appeared in Wunderman Thompson’s 2022 The Future 100 list. High-end fashion brands have been involved for a couple of years, with avatar muses and gamers dressing their online selves in the latest garms, and they are now using virtual make-up, hair and cosmetics, too.

Beauty brands such as Nars and Gucci are creating virtual make-up, while Sims players can get facials, manicures and pedicures via an upgrade that includes more than 100 skin tones and hairstyles. A new opportunity for selling services and products? Watch this space.

EYE ENHANCEMENTS

Brow and lash treatments are a staple, but what’s new and ation popular? According to a report, brow lamin with is a popular challenger to microblading, nent clients opting for the cheaper and less perma approach – on Instagram, the hashtag ‘brow million lamination’ has been used more than 2.1 were times already this year. Skinnier 90s brows the but back, come a g makin be to reported public is still into the natural look, with the ‘straight hashtags ‘natural brow’, ‘fluffy brow’ and a brow’ increasing. Lower lashes are also now lower ucing introd s Lashe au Nouve with , target lash LVL to deliver eye-catching results.

ACID APPEAL

Hyaluronic, glycolic, salicylic, BHAs, AHAs – The Future 100 trend report suggests that more brands are homing in on the benefits of acid. Three acid-based ingredients highlighted in one report are tranexamic acid, azelaic acid and PHAs, all helping to hydrate, exfoliate and/or control pigmentation and ageing. Another buzzword is ‘microdosing’ – a ‘less is more’ approach. Clients may start looking into this to find the best low-risk, high-reward skin solutions.

FIGURES REVEAL...

BUSINESS GROWTH

9.1% 8.9%

The Local Data Company analysed the openings and closures of retail and leisure outlets between January 2020 and December 2021 and found that the beauty sector had grown by 1.1%. There was also growth in these specific categories:

increase in nail salons

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increase in barbershops

7.7% increase in general beauty salons

HAD ANY THOUGHTS ABOUT WHAT YOU’VE READ? TELL US ON OUR SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORMS @NHBFSOCIAL

THE I N SPI RAT I O N W H AT ' S T R E N D IN G

THE LATEST

KEEPING YOU IN THE KNOW MEDICAL COVER With NHS waiting lists at a record high, there has never been a better time to start medical cover.

HMCA has launched My Care Card with a range of affordable plans specifically with the under50s in mind.

Don’t put off taking out medical cover until you are older. If

you are diagnosed now, with no cover in place, you may well find you cannot get cover for this condition in future.

All My Care Card plans come with 24/7 access to a private helpline and app, so you can speak to a GP any time you need. And all plans provide a cash benefit for each night you spend in an NHS hospital.

For further information, visit mycarecard.co.uk/salon

SPA SENSATIONS

DAPPER DAN Men’s styling brands are everywhere, but if you want to start with the best, Dapper Dan is undoubtedly the go-to brand.

Specialising in premiumquality barbershop products, Sheffield brand Dapper Dan is all about excellence. Its thorough development process, alongside more than 20 years of barbering experience, has propelled the brand to achieve something unique. Dapper Dan is always looking for great barbers to use and stock its worldrenowned products.

To find out more, visit dapperdanbrand.com/ pages/trade-enquiry

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Inspire your clients with heightened sensations of luxury in every backwash and treatment experience.

Spa Mist II by Takara Belmont creates an indulgent ambience that transports your client to a haven of tranquillity.

Its ultra-fine mist maximises scalp care, enhances treatment results and even allows for spa-style hand treatments to be introduced. Priced at £2260, the Spa Mist II can be leased from the distributor from £12.03 per week.

Visit takarahairdressing. co.uk, call 020 7515 0333 or email hairdressing@ takarabelmont.co.uk

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THE I N SPI RAT I O N H OW TO. . .

H OW TO. . . T HE I N S P I RAT I ON

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Industry awards are a great way to raise your profile, boost team morale and attract new clients. But writing your entry is no mean feat.

Sharon Bridgen, SLBPR’s managing director, tells us how it’s done.

1

Being nominated for or winning any award is great for your business, so you need to shout about it.

Promote it on your social media channels, and whether it’s a national or regional award send a press release to your local media contacts and make sure all your clients know.

YOUR ENTRY HAS TO LOOK AS GOOD TO THE LAST JUDGE AS IT DOES TO THE FIRST

4

ANALYSE THE DETAIL

My most important piece of advice is to read the awards criteria carefully and gather the correct information to answer each question properly.

I’ve read some great entries but as they haven’t answered one or more questions they get rejected.

5

SUPPLY THE EVIDENCE

Images and client testimonials will support what you are saying. Ask people why you are the best salon or barbershop. For business entries, financial information such as increases in client spend, turnover and specific services will all strengthen your entry.

6 7

LEARN FROM PREVIOUS WINNERS

Look at information on past winners – most awards websites have advice from them and past judges, which is hugely useful.

PRESENTATION

The design of the awards entry depends on the entry criteria. Many entries are now online, and you upload support material separately. If design is required, remember that your entry has to look as good to the last judge as it does to the first. If it’s all tied up in beautiful bows or fabric, it may look a bit worn by the time it’s been passed down the line.

RESEARCH, RESEARCH, RESEARCH

You need to think hard about which awards to enter and why. Do you want to increase your creative or business profile in the industry? Or do you want to attract more clients in your region? National awards will always be harder than regional awards simply because of the greater number of entries.

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WRITE A WINNING AWARDS ENTRY

3

SHOUT LOUD AND CLEAR

AVOID WAFFLE

RESOURCES

Make your entry concise, clear and to the point. Judges must read lots of entries so make sure they can see your achievements quickly and they don’t have to trail through lots of waffle to get there. Don’t worry about sounding big-headed – this is an awards entry!

z NHBF: The importance of awards for your salon or barbershop: nhbf. co.uk/entering-awards

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TOP TIPS

THE ART OF STORYTELLING Kayleigh Edwards, owner, Kayleigh Louise Hair & Beauty Salon in Warrington With more than five industry awards under her belt, Kayleigh puts her success in part down to her charity work, and communicating this to the wider world. z Think about the reasons you’re different compared with other salons and barbershops.

Have you appeared in any local newspapers for the work you’ve done, for example? We’ve done a lot of charity work each year, which helps. z Outline your business focus.

A lot of clients were anxious after numerous lockdowns, so we started to offer silent appointments. I advertise this so they don’t have to talk to the stylist or technician, and it’s been quite popular. z Push yourself out of your comfort zone. If you don’t, you’re going to just stay in the same place and you want clients – new and existing – to see that you are good enough. The more you better yourself, the better for your business. z Visibility is key. We had lots of posters up around our local town and we advertised on the back of a bus, which helped us win the Spotlight Salon of the Year award in 2020. z Enter as many awards as you can. Last year, we won an award for our own hair product, which wasn’t anything to do with our customer service. z Take pride in your achievements.

When I hear feedback from the judges – on stage or via email – it makes me realise how far we’ve come as a salon.

Now, other people can see how hard we’re working to get to that point.

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