The Jeweller Sept/Oct 2016

SPHERE OF INFLUENCE Bloggers – style mavens to follow

STAMP OF APPROVAL

Hallmarking – essential guidance

SENSE OF ACHIEVEMENT Hamilton & Inches – turning 150

T H E M A R K O F I N D U S T RY I N S P I R AT I O N & I N F O R M AT I O N

IJL – The first look

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016

£7.50

The JEWELLER

SHOW OF STRENGTH

Autumn novelty collection

Memory of Summer Design Chao-Hsien Kuo

Handmade in Helsinki

Deliveries start September 16th 2016 sales@lapponia.com

Inside this ISSUE

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER ISSUE

SPHERE OF INFLUENCE Bloggers – style mavens to follow

STAMP OF APPROVAL

Hallmarking – essential guidance

SENSE OF ACHIEVEMENT

24 RESPONSIBLE SOURCING Fairtrade – going for gold

T H E M A R K O F I N D U S T RY I N S P I R AT I O N & I N F O R M AT I O N

Hamilton & Inches – turning 150

22 ASSOCIATION NEWS Communication Channels – the NAJ reaching out

26 IJL PREVIEW Highlights from events and collections on show 42 ROMANCING THE STONE Blue is the colour – lapis lazuli explained

05 EDITOR’S LETTER 07 MICHAEL MAKES HIS POINT

44 MEMBER PROFILE Richard Sinton of Newcastle

08 ASSOCIATION NEWS The NAJ at IJL

46 ROCK VAULT PREVIEW Latest designers in the LFW spotlight

11 ASSOCIATION NEWS Introducing the National Committee

48 AUTUMN FAIR PREVIEW What to look out for at the Birmingham show

12 INSURANCE Join the NAJ/THM Club

50 CMJ TRADE EVENT Upbeat mood at the Christmas show

13 MEMBER BENEFIT Agents – the legal low-down

66 INDUSTRY INFORMATION Hallmarking guidance notes

72 ASSOCIATION NEWS Diamond course success

Designed & produced by: House Creative thejeweller@housecreative.co.uk 01625 614 005

74 MEMBER SPOTLIGHT Time to shine for River Mounts 76 MEMBER SPOTLIGHT Hamilton & Inches – 150 this year 78 IRV – THE VALUE OF CHANGE The new Affiliate Membership explained

16 21st CENTURY TASTE MAKERS All you need to know about bloggers

54 GOLDSMITHS’ FAIR PREVIEW Modern masters at this top showcase

82 INDUSTRY PROFILE Gary Williams has The Last Word

IJL PREVIEW

80 INDUSTRY NEWS Who, what, where… and when

EW Adams

RAW PEARLS (A70) Raw Pearls will be introducing new additions to its range of classic and contemporary pearl jewellery, high quality loose pearls and clasps – diamond-set earrings and pendants. Aimed at a new generation of pearl-wearers, these will join elegant pearl ropes and rings.

Andrew Geoghegan Rachel Galley

SHELDON BLOOMFIELD (C81) The bespoke range has grown, with gemstones including aquamarine, ametrine, watermelon tourmaline, kunzite, morganite, emeralds, rubies and sapphires. Also broadened is the popular double halo line – single row of diamonds alongside a row of fancy coloured sapphires, tsavorite garnets or rubies.

Sepanta

Sheldon Bloomfield

DOMINO (D60) New designs for Domino’s ‘Rosabella’ line will take centre stage at IJL – both classic and contemporary pieces across a range of price points. Of particular interest are the suites featuring colourful cabochon stones – such as iolites, as seen here, peridot, citrine, garnet, ruby and sapphire… as well, of course, as diamonds.

Diamond & Gem set JEWELLERY 3

SEPANTA (E148) Two bold and contemporary collections of fine diamond and gemset jewellery are being launched by the Sepanta designers. Both inspired by ancient Persian motifs, ‘Mouj’ explores the symmetry of geometric Persian carpets, while ‘Zinat’ shows distinctive fine patterns embedded on the surface of the jewellery.

ANDREW GEOGHEGAN (R118) Time spent in his South of France studio has inspired Andrew Geoghegan to add many new miniature masterpieces to his AG Collections – including this 18ct white gold, ‘Clair de Lune Azure’ ring with sapphire, aquamarine and diamond. Expect also impactful ‘Chapiteau’ cocktail rings, delicate fluted ‘Cannelé’ bracelets and ‘Clair de Lune’ drop earrings.

Raw Pearls

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

TIVON (D110) Showing two main new collections: ‘Heirloom’ – dedicated to traditional, timeless gemstones which are passed down from generation to generation (featuring fine rubies, sapphires and emeralds), and ‘Deco’ – a throwback to when inspiration came from architecture, geometric shapes and bold colours.

Editor: Belinda Morris bmorris@colony.co.uk Advertising sales: Ian Francis ian.francis@naj.co.uk 020 7749 1705

52 EDUCATION Introducing July’s Bransom winner

EW ADAMS (C41) An IJL first-timer, third generation, family-run EW Adams celebrates its 70th anniversary this year. Renowned for its fine collections of diamond and gemstone jewellery, crafted by highly-skilled goldsmiths in its own London workshops, it will be showing new 18ct gold rings, including a unique grey moonstone, star sapphire, tanzanite, coral and fire opal cluster, with diamonds.

CEO: Michael Rawlinson michael.rawlinson@naj.co.uk

68 SHOW REPORT Inspiring names at Pure London and Scoop

14 ASSOCIATION NEWS JET Business Network

Domino

Featured in this issue

62 NAJ AWARDS It’s party time!

THIS ISSUE OF GEMS&JEWELLERY includes all the recent news and events from Gem-A as well as an interview with the renowned and much-admired lapidary John Dyer, a preview of the forthcoming IJL and Hong Kong exhibitions, advanced testing of jet and a look at the history of the Crown Jewels, as well as much more.

Tivon

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The NAJ is responsible for producing The Jeweller and although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAJ does not accept liability, loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisors. The NAJ accepts no responsibility for the content of Gems&Jewellery or any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries. The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

Contributory writers: Mary Brittain, Andrew Fellows, Sarah Jordan Front cover image: International Jewellery London 4 – 6 Sept 2016 Olympia, London www.jewellerylondon.com

JEWELLER

IJL – The first look

The National Association of Jewellers 78a Luke Street London EC2A 4XG 020 7613 4445 naj.co.uk

T H E M A R K O F I N D U S T RY I N S P I R AT I O N A N D I N F O R M AT I O N

SHOW OF STRENGTH

60 AT THE BENCH Employing CAD for a winning Charm

The

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 £7.50

The JEWELLER

20 TREND FORECAST Swarovski Gem Visions’ 2017 directions

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ISSU E H IGH LIGH T S

There’s something about this time of year.

The industry events calendar being the way it is, with fairs rocking up from July onwards, I’ve already moved on from Summer (such as it was) and have hit the new term that is Autumn… with a vengeance. My metaphorical new pencil case is crammed with sharpened (Caron d’Ache) crayons and I’m ready to learn all about the season ahead.

FROM the Editor

The air of excitement (I was always a keen pupil!) is heightened by the production of this, the pre-IJL issue. Collating the Look Book (p26) with its myriad of gleaming, glittering, gorgeous gems – across the full gamut of categories at the show – was a fulfilling (occasionally challenging) exercise; the promise of innovative, exciting and beautiful collections waiting to be unveiled!

“IJL is about the discovery of new brands, emerging designers, international names, event newcomers and returnees... and thought-provoking debate” p26

And of course the NAJ team and members of the National Committee will be there in force on our stand (K26) over these three days, so we hope as many of you as possible will drop by.

And if you have a burning desire to talk to one of the editors of the jewellery trade titles (me included) IJL will also provide you with the perfect chance. Check out the NAJ’s packed show schedule (p8) to discover who will be where and what will be happening… and when.

While IJL might be the ‘Big One’, we’re also drawing your attention to the handful of other fairs that have taken place – or are still to happen.

Scoop and the City proved to be a happy hunting ground for jewellery design talent and, running simultaneously, Pure London also threw up some interesting new names for the UK (check out my report on p68). We also preview the latest line-up of British designers at London Fashion Week’s Rock Vault, fashion jewellery to be found at Autumn Fair, and present edited highlights of what the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Fair will be showcasing at the end of September.

“Today’s digital stars are savvy, stylish creators turning their love of photography and video into successful businesses...” p16

And, should you feel in need of a little preseason inspiration, journalist Sarah Jordan has elicited the guidance of some key fashion and jewellery bloggers, who offer their views on the way that jewellery is going now. Backed up with trend directions from Swarovski Gem Visions, we hope that gives you some food for thought before you hit the aisles.

See you at the show!

“Our showroom has been described as ‘one of the finest examples of an existing 19th century shop interior’...” p76 BELINDA MORRIS, EDITOR

OPINION Firstly we have developed a simple Customer Charter, which every NAJ member will be asked to display as part of their membership certificate and will help NAJ members stand out from the rest of the market. A key support we are providing is a dispute resolution service which works for both member to member and member to consumer disputes.

To help you explain some of the more complicated aspects of gems and jewellery we have created a series of consumer information leaflets. Finished samples will be available for you to look at, and you can place your order at the show to take advantage of our first print run.

Understanding the market, how big it is, what’s selling and what isn’t, is a key tool to running a successful business.

We are working with the three major sales processing software houses, to develop a way of collecting, collating and compiling sales data reports. These won’t identify any individual customer of a retail business, but will provide market intelligence so that you can make informed decisions about what is selling and what you should be looking to move on.

From the conversations I have with members across all parts of the trade, I hear similar issues, which everyone thinks are unique to themselves. Well I’m

sorry to break the news to you but you are not alone in many of the challenges you face in running your business. I don’t mean the technical, jewellery-related stuff, I mean the nitty gritty things – staff and HR, tax and pensions, marketing strategies and business plans. In order to assist, we are establishing the JET Business Network.

business development diplomas – are the industry gold standard for the retail trade. And over the next few months we will be reviewing the content and where necessary repurposing it so that these courses will support the manufacturing trade and designer makers as well. The course materials will be on show at IJL so come and take a closer look.

We want this industry to be strong and we are doing our part to help you. Do make sure you connect with us so that together we can be stronger.

Finally, if you have been in the industry for a long time or have some skills and expertise that you want to hand on to the next generation, why not think about becoming a mentor? It doesn’t have to take up a lot of your time, and we can pair you up with someone setting out on their career in the industry that could really benefit from your knowledge, experience and advice. We will be promoting our new mentoring website at IJL so take a look and have a chat with us about what you can offer.

Through a series of regional meetings we aim to bring together business leaders and facilitate their discussions and support members in the areas which might not be in their core skill set. We will initially hold four events in London, Birmingham, Sheffield and Edinburgh to allow those who might be interested to come along and get a taste of what will be on offer. These sessions will be free and open to all members, so do look out for the information and be ready to give it a try – what have you got to lose… except your business maybe?

Your staff are the most valuable asset in your business. You want them to be the best they can be, to serve your customers in a professional and knowledgeable way and with confidence.

The JET range of courses – from the introductory certificate for new starters all the way through the Professional Jeweller Diploma to the leadership and

It’s a hard business truth but when times are tough, we have to work even harder and invest much more into our marketing and promotion to win each customer and order. This unfortunately is likely to make it even more difficult to make a profit, let alone a decent profit.

We want this industry to be strong and we are doing our part to help you.

Do make sure you connect with us so that together we can be stronger.

THE MARK OF QUALITY

MICHAEL makes his point If you are visiting IJL at the beginning of September, I do hope you will take the time to come and visit our stand (K26) to see how your Association is supporting and working with you to help you survive and thrive in this challenging market.

MICHAEL RAWLINSON, NAJ CEO.

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THE NAJ at IJL

The NAJ’s stand (K26) has been designed to provide a haven for member visitors to the show – somewhere to sit and to have a soft drink, and perhaps a few bubbles later in the day, and to engage and relate to staff.

“We will be looking to demonstrate the positive value being an NAJ member delivers; the retailer support (with material such as retailer leaflets), the education courses, the introduction of the JET Business Network and the mentoring scheme,” says CEO Michael Rawlinson. “In short, the NAJ is here to support you to make money and to save you money.

SUNDAY Jewellery Education and Training (JET) Courses – An Insight 16:30 – 17:30

Jewellery Education and Training (JET) Courses – An Insight 9:30 – 10:45 Michael Rawlinson, NAJ CEO panellist at ‘Promoting Jewellery Centres of Excellence’ 14:30 – 15:30 Jewellery Education and Training (JET) Courses – An Insight 15:15 – 16:15

During the three days of the show various members of the NAJ team and steering group heads will be on our stand, on hand to meet the Association’s membership. Here’s an at-a-glance timetable showing who will be available and when. So if a member has a specific question they can come and ask it directly. There will also be an opportunity to ‘Meet the Editor’ – not only Belinda Morris of The Jeweller, who will be available every day, but also the editors of the three other key jewellery industry titles.

MONDAY

TUESDAY

Meet The Steering Group Chair Frank Wood, IRV All Day

Meet The Steering Group Chair Frank Wood, IRV All Day

Meet The Steering Group Chair Frank Wood, IRV All Day

Meet The Editor Stacey Hailes, Professional Jeweller 12:00 – 13:00

Meet The Editor Ruth Faulkner & Siobhan Holt Retail Jeweller 10:00 – 11:00

Meet The Editor Belinda Morris, The Jeweller 10:00 – 11:00

Meet The Steering Group Chair Judith Lockwood, Policy & Public Affairs 14:00 – 15:00

Press Call: NAJ Childline Charm Bracelet 11:00

Meet The Steering Group Chair Helen Dimmick, Membership 11:00 – 12:00

Meet The Steering Group Chair Vanessa Burkitt, Marketing 11:00 – 12:00

Meet The Editor Michael Northcott, Jewellery Focus 12:00 – 13:00

Belinda Morris, The Jeweller 16:00 – 17:00

TIMETABLE

Meet the TEAM!

SUNDAY

Meet The Editor THE MARK OF QUALITY

Finally, the stand will also be displaying a variety of jewellery – pieces that we have commissioned, supported or awarded prizes to, so that members can see how we are taking a direct interest in promoting British-made and -designed work.

MONDAY

Meet The Chairman Simon Johnson 15:00 – 16:00

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“This is in addition to the broader representational work we will do with external stakeholders like the Government and third-sector organisations, such as the Fairtrade Foundation. We want members to come and ask us: “What does the NAJ do for me?” and we will have a conversation to show them just how much.

COME AND SEE US AT STAND K26

Education SEMINARS

Association NEWS

As the sponsor of International Jewellery London, the National Association of Jewellers will have a strong presence at the show (4th – 6th September, 2016, Olympia Grand). Here’s a taster of what to expect on our stand over the three days.

Meet The Steering Group Chair Robert Organ, Technical Standards 11:00 – 12:00 Meet The Chairman Simon Johnson 15:00 – 16:00 Meet The Steering Group Chair Harriet Kelsall, Education 16:00 – 17:00 Meet The Editor Belinda Morris, The Jeweller 16:00 – 17:00

Meet The Chairman Simon Johnson 15:00 – 16:00

Alex Davis

Alexis Dove

Magnus & Bella

Among the pieces of jewellery that will be displayed on the NAJ stand will be the two charms that were the winners of the NAJ/IJL Charity Charm Competition. Designed by design duos Magnus & Bella and Dower & Hall, the two charms will sit alongside charms created by other brands and designers: Alexis Dove, Sarah Jordan for Clogau, Alexander Davis, Collette Waudby, Sarah Ho, Clogau and Rachel Galley. The bracelet itself has been designed by Sarah Jordan and cast by Hockley Mint and the finished creation will be the headline item in an online luxury Christmas gift auction to raise funds for the NSPCC’s ChildLine service.

Association NEWS

WINNING Charms

Sarah Ho

The ‘Elder Charm’, seen here, by Magnus & Bella is hand-engraved and hand-carved in solid gold in the bespoke studio of the husband and wife team.

In ancient English folkore the elder tree symbolised guardianship and protection. The circle of leaves in the charm suggests constant protection and a safe space – embodying the essence of ChildLine.

Rachel Galley

Clogau

Collette Waudby

The 18ct rose gold charm created by Dower & Hall is called ‘Wrapped in Love’ and has been designed to symbolise the caring work that the NSPCC does with vulnerable children. The roses speak of love and “surround a pearl with protection and warmth”; the pearl symbolising a child’s pure innocence.

Speaking about his own design, Alexander Davis says: “My balloon charm, in 18ct gold, coloured gemstones and diamonds, is inspired by the fun that balloons bring to children, and symbolises an uplifting spirit of hopefulness and joy.” Sarah Ho, meanwhile, chose the pearl for her charm, for its symbolism of protection and the belief in some cultures that the pearl keeps a child safe.

Lindsey Straughton, NAJ marketing manager commented: “We would like to thank everyone who took part in this competition. It was a really difficult judging decision as we had some fantastic entries. These two charms are worthy winners and we’re sure they will help the charm bracelet raise a tremendous sum for ChildLine.”

Dower & Hall

Shirley Mitchell, Barry Sullivan, Julian Cousins & Michael Inkpen Frank Wood, chairman of the Institute of Registered Valuers (IRV) would love to see members of the Institute on the stand at the show. “We have plenty to discuss – it should be a lively show!” he says. Frank will be there every day of IJL and will be accompanied by many of the committee, including Shirley Mitchell, Julian Cousins, Michael Inkpen and Barry Sullivan, who will all be there on Sunday, and Steve Carsons will be on the stand with Frank on Monday.

“If members wish to discuss the new membership categories, the IRV survey, new future plans, the

Invitation to IRV members diamond assessment and grading course, CAT, financial assistance towards the costs of courses or wish to express their views on any other matter relating to the IRV, we will be there to account for the changes and, of course, accept the praise!” he adds.

“I would be delighted to see any members/fellows to discuss any ideas they may have to further enhance the Institute. We will of course, be delighted to talk to anyone who is considering a career in valuations and are very happy to give assistance on the best ways to make that happen.”

THE MARK OF QUALITY

Sarah Jordan / Hockley Mint

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Association NEWS

Shiyun Chen

Bright Young GEMS While it already collaborates with IJL on the KickStart initiative, this year the NAJ has offered a helping hand to the Bright Young Gems project.

Visitors to the show will be able to find the five jewellery design students, who have won the chance to showcase their work with the BYG group, at their booths adjoining the KickStart stand (T10) on the gallery floor.

Selected by a panel of judges headed, for the first time this year, by British designer Shaun Leane, the chosen five are: Istanbul-born Talisa Bergen who studied at Central St Martins; Katy Tromans who graduated with a first class honours from Birmingham City University (BCU) School of Jewellery; Stephanie Willis who has just graduated from further study at BCU in Design for Industry; Rebecca Wilkes is a recent BA graduate of the BCU Design for Industry course and Shiyun Chen who is a BA jewellery design graduate from Central St Martins.

Sam Willoughby, event director says: “Every year the Bright Young Gems programme offers five young innovative designers great exposure and an unparalleled opportunity to access their first commercial platform to showcase their work to such an influential audience. IJL welcomes over 10,350 industry professionals from 64 countries during the three days of the show. And it is particularly rewarding to see how many of these young designers have then gone on during the past 10 years to become leading stars in the industry”.

These are definitely names to watch (and remember) for the future, so try and schedule some time to check them out.

Stephanie Willis

Learn about the NAJ BIG DATA INITIATIVE You may have already heard or read about an exciting new collaboration between the Association and Bransom Retail Systems, that will ultimately provide valuable business data on the state of the jewellery market and thereby support retailers.

THE MARK OF QUALITY

Basing key business decisions on accurate market data means buying products that are proven to sell, and helps reduce slow-moving and obsolete inventory.

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Unfortunately, that data does not currently exist.

Individual retailers may have statistics on their own sales, but aggregated data using information from multiple stores country-wide can show trends and highlight opportunities retailers may not be aware of, including the popularity of brands which may not currently be stocked.

So, the NAJ and Bransom have partnered to offer NAJ members preferential access to Bransom’s new cloud-based EPoS system, which stores all sales data securely online. By signing up to share data, the NAJ can give its members a much bigger picture of what is selling, while at the same time getting access to better sales analysis and marketing tools. With access to professional marketing tools, a retailer’s business can really engage with your customers, increase footfall and client loyalty.

“Understanding what is selling, and what is not, is one of the key tools to making you money and saving you money. Having market sales data will also help the Association in its promotional campaigns with consumers, highlighting trends,” says NAJ CEO Michael Rawlinson. “The best way to access new skills that can really drive your business forward is to partner with specialists who can deliver what you need when you need it, cost effectively. This offer from Bransom does just that.”

One part of the programme involves access to professional marketing help from House Creative.

House has many jewellery trade clients and also designs this magazine. As part of the programme, a set of standard ‘seasonal’ email templates is available, designed to promote the business and products. These can be customised with company name, logo and details and can be sent to a customer database through a bulk mail provider at key buying times of the year such as Christmas, Valentine’s Day, or even as a generic reminder that a birthday may be coming up.

If you’d like to learn more, we invite you to visit our stand (K26) where MD Chris Garland and team members from Bransom will be happy to explain the new launch and the various elements of the partnership.

HARRIET KELSALL The founder and managing director of Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery, Harriet is the NAJ’s vice chairman, as well as the head of the Steering Group for Education. She is renowned for being hugely passionate about helping to improve skills within the industry, as well as about working ethically. HKBJ was the first independent jewellery retailer in the UK to be RJC-credited.

HELEN DIMMICK The head of the Membership Steering Group, Helen is MD of Green+Benz jewellers in Chesterfield and Sheffield.

Having started her career at Tiffany & Co, Helen is a Fellow of Gem-A, award-winning gemmologist and a diamond grader. She relishes the challenge of helping the “broad church” of the membership to achieve their core business goals – the same goals whether retailer or supplier.

VANESSA BURKITT The managing director of Catherine Jones in Cambridge (as well as the owner of German jewellery manufacturing business Becker Design), Vanessa is the head of the Steering Group for Marketing & Communications.

Catherine Jones was a member of both the N.A.G. and the BJA and Vanessa sat on the latter’s National Committee for six years.

JUDITH LOCKWOOD Judith heads up the Steering Group for Public Affairs. This will, in the first instance, review the NAJ’s position and public statements in relation to industry initiatives and programmes designed to support and facilitate responsible sourcing and good business practice. The group will also prepare standard statements for members to use on their websites and guidance on how to answer customer questions.

DR ROBERT ORGAN Heading up the NAJ’s Steering Group for Technical Standards, Robert has been the deputy warden of the Goldsmiths’ Company Assay Office since 2006 – an ancient title for the position of assay master or MD. He is also the current chairman of the Secretariat of the International Association of Assay Offices and chairman of the BSI Committee STI/53: specifications and test methods for jewellery and horology.

CHRIS SELLORS Having established C W Sellors Fine Jewellery in 1979, Chris has overseen the successful growth of this progressive and pioneering retail and manufacturing jewellers.

Particularly well known (worldwide) for working with Derbyshire Blue John and Whitby Jet, Chris retains a particular passion for the development, education and training of these British gemstones.

GARY WROE Gary has been MD of Birmingham-based manufacturer Hockley Mint since 2007 and is deputy chairman of the NAJ. Hockley Mint is the leading manufacturer to incorporate Fairtrade gold into its product range and was accredited by the Responsible Jewellery Council in 2015. Gary was previously chairman of the BJA and is a director of the BATF. ANDREW HINDS BATF Board member and NAJ deputy chairman, Andrew, was, with Gary Wroe, joint chairman of the newly unified NAJ and prior to that, the chairman of the N.A.G. As a director of multiple jewellery retailer F. Hinds (a multiple-generation family business) he has been well-placed to see the viewpoints of those from different parts of the industry.

PATRICK FULLER The NAJ’s first president Patrick Fuller, is the co-owner, with his wife Vivian, of WB The Creative Jewellery Group. He was recently honoured with an ‘Outstanding Contribution to the Industry Award’ at the UK Jewellery Awards. Patrick is a past president of the N.A.G. and BJGF, a past chairman of the BJA, a liveryman of the Goldsmiths’ Company and a member of the British Hallmarking Council.

FRANK WOOD Joint owner of RA Braithwaites Jewellers in York, Frank Wood is the current chairman of the NAJ’s Institute of Registered Valuers.

He is also a past chairman and treasurer of the N.A.G. (pre-unification with the BJA).

Together with the IRV committee members, Frank’s key remit is to protect the reputation and credibility of the Institute going forward. (see p78 for details of IRV membership news).

MICHAEL RAWLINSON As the NAJ’s CEO Michael is a member of the National Committee, there to listen to members’ views and add his voice to the debate and strategy. Once strategy and actions are agreed, it is his and his team’s role to implement and deliver, reporting progress back regularly to the Committee.

Any adjustments or fine tuning can then be controlled, allowing the NAJ to operate effectively and efficiently.

Meet the NATIONAL COMMITTEE

THE MARK OF QUALITY

SIMON JOHNSON The owner and founder of Marmalade Jewellery in Chiswick, London, Simon is the recently elected chairman of the NAJ. Having been allied closely with the Association since establishing his business, he is wellplaced to turn his attention to all its facets, but in the short term is committed to getting the Steering Groups up and running and the NAJ moving forward.

Association NEWS

The NAJ stand at IJL will provide the perfect opportunity for members – exhibiting suppliers as well as visiting retailers – to meet members of the Association’s National Committee.

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Member BENEFITS

JOIN our CLUB!

As a new, and to some extent vaguely uncertain, chapter unfolds for Britain and the EU, it is reassuring to know that some historic partnerships remain united.

The benefits gained from a longstanding alliance between T H March (THM) and the NAJ (pre-N.A.G. and BJA unification) have been well documented.

Stretching back over many years, cooperation between the parties has resulted in mutually advantageous and, at times, gamechanging innovations, not least of which is the increasingly successful SaferGems anti-crime initiative aimed at protecting jewellers, sharing intelligence and deterring crime against the UK jewellery trade.

A quiet success

THE MARK OF PROFESSIONALISM

For many months now, a great deal of behind the scenes work, commissioned by T H March, has been undertaken in an effort to develop fresh new initiatives that will keep the relationship ‘ahead of the curve’ in offering real benefits for both. This has involved in-depth research carried out by an Insurance Affiliate Consultancy specialist who has conducted detailed interviews with key industry figures and jewellers on behalf of THM.

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The object of the exercise has been to form the basis of an even stronger future relationship between THM, the NAJ and its members.

THM’s managing McFarlane, says:

director,

Neil

“The aim is to achieve a much closer working relationship and sharing of information.

By strengthening our partnership and offering substantial improvements in cover for NAJ members, we will be able to offer more value to members – as requested by them.”

He added: “THM will also work continuously to improve the Affiliate relationship and ensure we are always providing an attractive proposition for all members of the NAJ. This will be an ongoing process.”

The formation of a THM/NAJ Club will offer enhanced benefits for members that will include discounts on various policies and free professional advice on a range of covers. The aim will be to provide a substantial improvement on policy cover.

Exact details will be available at IJL on the T H March stand (C149).

In order to illustrate the kind of enhanced benefits available to NAJ members, here is a ‘typical’ scenario provided by THM’s chartered financial planner, Steve Clemence: As a member of the THM/NAJ Club we will rebate 50 per cent of the normal initial commission receivable, to allow insurers to reduce the premium for any life, life and critical illness, or long term income protection policy we arrange for you (business or personal).

We go to the whole of the market for these covers and you get professional qualified advice on what cover you need. We make sure you have the right amount of cover going to the right people, at the right time and at a budget you can afford.

What could this save you in £s shillings and pence? Let’s consider Alex, a 37year old designer jeweller just taking out a £300,000 mortgage over 25 years.

The normal cost of decreasing life cover with critical illness with Legal & General would be £77.52 per month.

As a club member it will be £68.22 per month.

A saving of £9.30 per month.

Which if he kept the policy for the 25 years would save him £2,790.

Steve will be available to discuss the THM/ NAJ Club at IJL on Sunday.

Member BENEFITS

CUTTING both WAYS A relationship between agent and supplier can, sadly, go awry. Richard Bailey, director of Steele’s Law, advises on the course of action to take to prevent a worst-case scenario.

Many suppliers will conduct their sales via a commercial agent – that is to say, broadly, using the services of a selfemployed sales person, generally paid wholly or mainly by commission on the sales in his territory.

The relationship is governed by a contract between the agent and the principal, which may be written or unwritten and also by the Commercial Agents (Council Directive) Regulations 1993. Notably, these regulations provide for certain payments to be made by the principal to the agent when the agency comes to an end in most (but not all) circumstances.

The law in this area has developed over the years since the regulations came into force, generally by various cases in which the courts have clarified or explained the law. This continues to happen and there has been a recent case containing lessons for both principals and agents.

Recent case Earlier this year in ‘Alan Ramsay Sales and Marketing Ltd v Typhoo Tea Ltd’, a former agent claimed for compensation under the regulations. The High Court’s decision cut both ways. The agent and the principal discussed for some time by email a dispute between them and whether the agency should come to an end.

These discussions all took place on a without prejudice basis (meaning the emails could not be referred to or relied on in court). However, in the course of the emails, there was a proposal to terminate. The agent responded to this on an ‘open’ basis (normally meaning that it could

be referred to or relied on in court) to show the agency had in fact been terminated. The court said that the agent couldn’t do this and thereby claim that the agency had terminated.

It got worse for the agent at this stage, as the court further found that the agent had, by so doing, committed a serious breach of the agency agreement.

However, the court also found that the principal had not ‘accepted’ the breach (which would have terminated the agency agreement) since it did not respond accordingly or indicate in some other way that it had done so. By not acting, although the agent was in serious breach, the principal had in effect waived the breach and lost the opportunity to do anything about it. Not only that, the effect was that the agent was in fact entitled to compensation under the Regulations.

This really was a case that cut both ways for the parties.

Lessons • Don’t mix up open and without prejudice discussions or correspondence • A serious breach by an agent may well entitle the principal to terminate the agency • If so the principal must act quickly or lose that entitlement • Some prompt legal advice would be advisable!

For more information contact Richard Bailey, Steeles Law Solicitors Ltd 01603 598000 rbailey@steeleslaw.co.uk This article is for general guidance only. It is not to be relied upon and professional advice should always be taken on specific circumstances

AGENTBASE The NAJ has negotiated a discounted rate for members wishing to use AgentBase’s full range of sales agent recruitment services. AgentBase can guide you through the entire planning, recruiting, contracting, and management processes.

Working with agents is a specialised job, and there are many pitfalls for those who don’t tread carefully. The planning stage is critical to success. The AgentBase Agent Strategy Consulting Services are designed for companies who are either new to using agents, or who are experiencing difficulties with existing agents. In all cases AgentBase will work with you to identify the issues, fix the problems and help you move forward. AgentBase also provides various methods for you to promote your agency opportunity to agents, including advertising, targeted mail-shotting, management recruitment services, agent introduction service, legal pack and finding agents internationally.

For further information, please visit www.agentbase.co.uk/pa_welcome.php or phone Paul Brown 01926 864200 quoting your NAJ membership number.

THE MARK OF PROFESSIONALISM

Background

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JET BUSINESS NETWORK

The EDF rebrands as JET BUSINESS NETWORK

THE MARK OF SHARED KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE

The unification of the BJA and N.A.G. has extended the NAJ membership beyond retail to effectively the entire length of the supply chain and today includes: designer makers, manufacturers, trade suppliers, valuers and students.

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“Initial feedback from members suggests many of these channels simply don’t fall into ‘executive’ or relate to ‘forums’, and as a result we took the decision to re-brand the EDF as JET Business Network (JBN). We are choosing to use the JET brand as it’s the industry flagship for education, training and development, and Business Network because that’s exactly what the EDF has successfully delivered since 2005,” said Simon Johnson, newly elected chairman of the NAJ. The intention is to offer JET Business Network free trade taster days in various locations around the UK to give other member channels the opportunity to experience what to date has only been enjoyed by retailers.

The JBN groups will offer member businesses ongoing professional support in key commercial areas such as Sales, Marketing, People, Forecasting, Growth skills, and Business acceleration; as well as the opportunity to share their knowledge, experience and expertise with like-minded professionals from their specific industry channel – further details are planned to be released at IJL in September.

In the meantime the JET Business Network (formerly known as the EDF) held its annual congress in Birmingham under the theme “Inspiring Leadership” and was attended for the first time by members from outside the retail channel; who gathered to hear seven speakers with over 150 years’ combined leadership experience gained in 15 plus different sectors.

All were in agreement that leadership is not exclusive to any one sector and the lessons learnt can and have been successfully applied in jewellery. In short, leadership doesn’t have to be complicated, as business leaders your job is to inspire your people not hinder them, and to make them believe that the apparent impossible is actually possible!

Retailers at the congress were identified by the bright red lanyards around their necks and nonmembers were encouraged to speak to them about their JBN experiences. The most frequently asked question was: “Why are you a member?” followed by: “What does it do for your business?” The best answer appeared to be “It makes you money, it saves you money.”

For an annual subscription of £850, you and your business will benefit from the shared knowledge, experience and expertise of the Jet Business Network via: Monthly Performance Reports enabling you to benchmark your business against other retail jewellers.

Online Q&A Forum - whether you have a business issue or just seek guidance. You ask the question and the members answer.

Educational Store Visits - allow you to see and hear what other jewellers are doing.

Regional Group Meetings – to discuss the issues and opportunities they face, as well as develop new business skills.

New Flash Service –receive relevant business and industry articles straight to your inbox.

Member Business Surveys - on topics identified by the members.

Plus the opportunity to influence and shape the content of the Annual Oxford Congress.

For further information visit the NAJ website or call Amanda White on 020 7613 4445 or email Amanda at amandaw@naj.co.uk Look out for more details on the JBN Trade Taster Days

Trends

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S R E K A M E T S

Forget everything you think you know about bloggers, because today’s digital stars are savvy, stylish creators turning their love of photography and video into successful businesses.

Here, journalist Sarah Jordan delves into the world of influencers and hears their take on current and upcoming trends...

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Trends

The internet is awash with websites, which means it’s tough to know who to trust and where to start. However, there are a number of jewellery platforms that have reached nearcult status, including The Jewellery Editor, Gem Gossip, Kater ina Perez, Gemologue, In Detail and Jewels du Jour. Beautiful imagery, an exper t attention-to-detail and impeccable styling are all traits they have in common.

Influencer and founder of In Detail, Beanie Major, used her backg round as a goldsmith and desig ner to shape her platform, which has the strapline ‘Ever y piece of jewellery tells a story’. She explains: “I launched In Detail while working as part of the desig n team at London jewellery house Shaun Leane. Fashion e-com merce was growing quickly, so I wanted to find a way to make jewellery accessible to people, as I realised that it was going to be a hard sell online. That was five years ago when large retail sites didn’t yet have a fine jewellery offering and most jewellery brands didn’t have e-com merce of their own.”

re up to conju r ing s d n te p ou ger’ enagers, rd ‘blog The wo hion-obsessed te consciousness s-ofn f fas images o ghts onto stream may have bee is u h a o T th ly . s in ir r ta the r iend t it is ce r their f blogs fo 0 years ago, bu 1 the case tor y in 2016. onalities ts edia pers re likely to differen m , rs e c o ou’re m , inf luen r y of Cu rators the monikers y made a maste eir e ’v re a ia th ho – these ed to people w and social med h y c h a see att eog rap phy, vid social photog ra . on-based t who d n o L business n, a nsultan nts: Shim me tions co e Rosalind nd com mu nica paig ns, com m ing ca m r tis e PR a r v e , d c a ia n d e d e an f lu m brand’s es in in g rowing specialis ers are key to ol you r impact tr n o c c n “Inf luen iness. They ca asing behaviou r, s h you r bu , inf luence pu rc website and n r o u ti o y ta u to p re nce.” ic ive traff ou r audie SEO, d r atekeepers to y of eg for ms act as th s itional e d in a z tr aga h Althoug uch as pr int m tinue to s c on g, marketin ard adver tising marketing o r e lb c il n b e d lu an ’ve inf o s e wh o onders, work w e attention of th r tphone – th a captu res glued to a sm illen nial M p u h c a n g row -to-re the hard udiences. y ll a ic p a ty eration Z “People ers are a nd G e n g tinues: n o c one ion blog n Shim me eller y and fash one reason, and nd a w r je le fo g followin following them y like their sty r. This e a y th e ll w a e no r m e c au s y they nly – b jeweller ience of reason o the clothes and tly into an aud te ec apprecia u’re tapping dir o y s n a . e m ers l custom potentia

Katerina Perez was working in highjewellery retail and editing Russian-English luxur y magazine, VV, when she first considered developing her own website. She remarks: “In May 2013 I started katerinaperez.com as a hobby. When I watched the number of readers growing day by day, I gave up all other jobs a year-and-a-half later and focused on developing my website.”

She continues: “Nowadays brands take bloggers and online writers as seriously as journalists who write for print – we go to the same press days and events. Within three years, I have collaborated with a number of fine and high jewellery brands that understand it is not enough to create stunning pieces – they have to let the world know about their existence.”

Equally know n for qualit y and an impeccable sense of curation is Gemologue – an awardwinning, multi-lingual platform founded by trained gemmologist, Liza Urla, in 2009.

Gemologue is an undoubtedly striking website, with imagery and styling that puts many high jewellery brands and fashion houses to shame. Urla explains: “Gemologue started as a beautiful anthology of jewellery street style images, as I could not photograph jewellery brands directly. At the time jewellery desig ners were afraid that by posting their images online their work would be copied.”

She adds: “Social influencers, writers and bloggers often command a great amou nt of trust amongst their followers so they are able to raise awareness about brands. They are a powerful link from brands to consumers.”

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

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BLOGS TO FOLLOW

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Trends

TRENDS TO WATCH Influencers such as Major, Urla and Perez are all uniquely up-to-date on the latest trends, with a following that is regularly scour ing social media to find out what’s new. “Yellow gold is in demand right now,” Major comments. “The consumer no longer wants plated metal so lower carats of gold such as 9ct or 14ct are becoming more and more acceptable.”

Perez adds: “Right now there is a hot trend for colou red stones – the brighter the better – and nature-inspired jewellery, especially flowers. In terms of jewellery type, I would highlight shoulder length earrings, bangles (better stacked) and chokers. The upcoming AW16 season will not be much different, with chokers, stackable bangles, as well as solo and mismatched earrings still going strong.”

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Urla has also noted shifting trends in 2016, including a revival of contemporary pearl jewellery, thanks in large part to fashion houses Gucci, Chanel and Dior.

She continues: “Creative costume jewellery is gaining traction due to the efforts of such creative minds as Iradj Moini, Vicki Sarge, Michelle, Rosie Assoulin and Dries van Noten. Chokers are here to stay, and are becoming increasingly more visible in fine jewellery: I have tried on some splendid pieces from Stephen Webster and Sarah Ho. There’s been a revival of coin choker necklaces that ooze a Roman vibe too, by classic names like Bulgari, as well as Erica Court ney and Dubini.”

Thinking ahead to SS17, Major predicts: “Bolder jewellery is making a comeback.

The market has been saturated with tiny chains and delicate rings over the last few years, but it has all begun to look a bit uniform.”

Perez is also expecting an explosion of bold desig ns, with “a shift towards punk jewellery like chains, pins and black gold” as well as “lots of layered and statement jewellery”.

NAMES TO DROP In terms of brands to watch, the influencers included in this feature leaned towards Paris-born desig ner Anissa Kermiche and Dubai and London-based brand R.Y.M. Jewelry, which both made their debut in 2016.

“Right now, I have my eye on Beau Han Xu, who creates dreamlike glass pieces – cuffs, chokers and rings – with diamonds inside and immersed in liquid,” Urla concludes. “You can see the diamonds float within as you move.”

CAN JEWELLERY BRANDS BECOME SOCIAL MEDIA INFLUENCERS? Hannah Wood, director of Hannah Peters Jewellery, has amassed more than 30,000 Instag ram followers (@JewelleryHannah) despite living in rural Weardale, County Durham. Here she expla ins how becoming a jewellery influencer on Instag ram has transformed her business…

On being a social media influencer “I’m constantly amazed that so many peopl e care enough about my Instag ram feed to click on the ‘follow’ button. There’s so much qualit y content out there now, and when someone decides to follow me I think of it as a real honou r. There is no doubt at all that I would n’t be where I am today without Instag ram. It’s been an incredible platform for me. Instag ram has widen ed my customer base enormously, increased my know ledge of jewellery histor y, and has enabled me to meet – virtually, and then in real life – some truly wonderful peopl e whose obsession with jewellery is equal to my own.”

On selling through Instagram “When I post pieces on my feed which are for sale, coming soon, or available for customisation, generally they do sell extremely quickly. My record time from postto-sale was three minutes. Very often, pieces sell within 48 hours of me posting them.”

On SS17 trends “For next year, I think people will gravitate towar ds larger, bolder pieces. Gold has been super-fashi onable for ages, but I think silver – especially chunk y Victorian silver and interesting tribal pieces – will really start to make a comeback.”

FASHION AND STYLE INFLUENCERS TO WATCH With expertly curated platforms, beautiful photography and loyal return-readers, these digital influencers are making waves. They may not be jeweller y-specif ic, but their collective reach is worthy of your marketing spend.

girlinthelens.com thankfif i.com cocosteaparty.com theelginavenue.com stylonylon.com dreamingofchanel.com fashionmumblr.com stephilareine.com

THE GENERATION Z CELEBRITIES: YOUTUBERS

With ador ing fans, obsessive followers and their own merchandise empires, YouTubers are the ultimate celebrities for tweens and teens. Here are some who have made making videos a six-f igure (and then some) business…

Zoe Sugg aka Zoella – 15 million subs cribers – her YouTube chan nels had 23.3 million views in January 2016 alone.

Samantha Maria aka Beauty Cru sh – 1.7 million subscribers Tanya Burr – 3.5 million subscribers

Louise Pentland aka Sprinkle of Glit ter – 2.5 million subscribers Niomi Smart – 1.6 million subscrib

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ers

Authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (No. 306522)

EXISTENCE

What: Science meets spirituality in a trend that explores the mystical aspects of the planet, celebrating life on earth set within the context of the wider universe.

Who for: Aesthetically sophisticated consumers, with a taste for the cool contemporary, demanding ethical luxury.

Using: Stones and materials exhibiting a natural patina such as agates, grey dendritic diamonds, moonstones, amber, coral, pearl, lava stone, bone, fossils, shells, fossilised wood, jet, obsidian, quartz and marble. Oxidised and otherwise treated metals.

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2 017 With their fingers on the pulse, ears to the ground and eyes on the street, the jewellery bloggers, interviewed by Sarah Jordan on the previous pages, are pretty well-placed to talk trends – present and future. As the buying season gets underway, here’s more future food for thought with Swarovski’s Gem Visions directions for 2017.

The bigger picture An examination of cultural ‘megatrends’ – the evolving global zeitgeist – that are currently shaping design direction for fine and bridge jewellery, leads Swarovski to present four dominant themes for the year ahead. The over-arching mood is that opposites attract; polarities gravitate towards one-another (natural with man-made, art and science, antique and avant garde…) and the key to this fusion lies with generation Y – the Millennials. Playing with extremes and contradictions, for fresh, vibrant jewellery, is what it’s all about.

Who for: The cultivated, fashion-conscious consumer looking for modern day heirlooms.

Using: Focus is on gems of exceptional brilliance and beauty – regal rubies lead the way followed by deep pink stones, especially pink tourmalines, peridots, yellow beryls, topaz, amethyst and jade. Metalwork resembling lace thanks to advanced technologies.

Colours: Dramatic sweeps of intense, classic gem colours, as well as black gold and patinated silver.

EASY-TRANS-FORM

T R E N D S

What: Bringing back opulence – monumental jewellery that shouts pure drama, stunning craftsmanship and a strong play of light and line.

What: A move away from formality, usually associated with fine jewellery, towards easy-to-wear, versatility and mixing and matching. How a jewel feels on the skin, how it moves with the body and the pleasure it brings to the wearer are all key considerations.

SELF-ART

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

F U T U R E

HAUTE GEMS

Colours: Drawn from nature – chartreuse, moss green, snakeskin green, mint green, light-blue grey, lava red, lava grey, deep charcoal and ivory.

What: A new approach to self-expression through jewellery, for a laid-back aesthetic that values rustic, hand-made, sustainable style – loaded with meaning and personal statement.

Who for: For women who want jewellery to work with their multi-faceted lives and express their changing moods and styles.

Using: High-tech ceramics, transparent and translucent materials like rock crystal, or dichromatic stones like ametrine. Iridescent materials or gems with shifting light and colour – opals, rainbow moonstones, labradorite and frosted finishes.

Colours: Small, sweet, casual diamond accents and a variety of mixed metals in a palette of fresh brights and pastel tones like tangerines and lilacs. Ombre effects, frosted colors, iridescent accents and bi-coloured gemstones also work well.

Who for: Millennials who challenge preconceptions of a jewel’s preciousness.

Using: Celebrating man-made – a broadening range of materials including synthetic diamonds, vibrantly coloured cubic zirconia, acrylic, resin, corian, composite materials, 3-D printing materials, faceted howlite, turquoise, black diamonds, brown diamonds, lapis lazuli, brilliant lacquers, enamels, crystals and chains.

Colours: A bold, vivid palette with black as a strong graphic accent, with a range of arty pastels, with a strong emphasis on blues, especially lapis, as well as camel and caramel.

18ct yellow gold necklace

by Daniela Villegas

Palladium and yellow gold brooch by Vicky Lew

Bangles by Stella Lopes

18ct gold brooch by Jessica Fong

White diamonds and aquamarine earrings by Shaun Leane

Rose gold and diamonds Numerati collection by Sarah Ho

Rose gold and gemstone cocktail ring by Tomasz Donocik

Wrap bracelets by Tomasz Donocik

Stackable rings

by Myia Passiello

Ring by Csaba Hegedüs

Trend DIRECTIONS

Pendant by Isabella Lopes

Orchid ring by Lydia Courteille

Rose gold and diamonds bracelet by Crieri

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Cuff by Csaba Hegedüs

Earrings by Nemanja Ilic

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Association NEWS

Communication CHANNELS

THE MARK OF QUALITY

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Vanessa Burkitt, MD of Catherine Jones of Cambridge, who heads up the Marketing & Communications Steering Group, explains how, going forward, the Association will be reaching out to the industry and consumer.

The merger of the BJA and the N.A.G. is a tremendous accolade for our industry. It shows that we have recognised the seismic changes in the trade – the blurring of the edges between manufacturing and retail and the multi-channel platforms we all work with.

We have been bold enough to create a trade association fit for our times.

develop more opportunities to help them make money.

The energy in the NAJ is phenomenal and when Simon Johnson, our chairman, invited me to be chair of the marketing and communications group, it was the perfect fit for me.

Our key priority is to make the NAJ the ‘Mark’ of the industry, with a redesign of the Grant of Arms being seen on all our communications. Retailers can be the end consumer of a manufacturer who may buy from an NAJ stone or bullion dealer, while the job that the retailer does reflects the reputation of our industry. Most members will have received the new graphics for use on websites and communications or NAJ crest stickers for their shop windows. We also have acrylic NAJ stands to use in displays.

My background is in television. At the BBC I had phenomenal training in script writing and worked on programmes with very different audiences. You don’t write with the same tone of voice for the dear-departed Nationwide as you do for Newsnight or Panorama. The quick-fire, real-time world of news keeps you on your mettle and seeing a story opportunity becomes a reflex that never quite leaves you.

After working with the BBC I ran a communications consultancy working with big clients including Tate & Lyle before taking up the reins in the business, when my mother, Catherine Jones, needed help. That was a big change.

I sat on the BJA National Committee for six years as the first retail member along with leading manufacturers. It was illuminating and it became clear that we shared similar challenges and opportunities and strive to work to the same code of ethics.

At the BJA, the most exciting project was making the brooch for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee working alongside Sarah Jordan and Cindy Dennis Mangan. What a privilege to go to the Palace and present Ivonna Poplanska’s extraordinary design to the charming Angela Kelly, personal assistant and senior dresser to Queen Elizabeth II. Catherine Jones was a member of both the N.A.G. and the BJA. When I acquired Becker Design in Germany, last year, I really was on both sides of the same fence.

The NAJ marketing and communications group has a simple remit: to communicate Simon’s vision to all our members and to provide excellent services and support and

Simple it is not: the messages come from the other steering groups, from NAJ management and events like Brexit. The range of audiences is significant. We need to communicate more widely than simply to ourselves B2B.

The professional courses are being revamped by colleagues on the Education Steering Group, to increase the uptake of JET, strengthen wider-based training and develop the JET Business Network as an annual congress.

The Jeweller magazine is a vital platform and is looking sparkling and fresh following its redesign. The website will undergo a revamp, amalgamating the messages from designer-makers and manufacturers with the education services of the old N.A.G. A suite of customer-facing leaflets is reaching final stages and will be in production in time for launch at IJL, where we shall also unveil the newly-designed NAJ stand.

The Steering group has a great team: Cameron March (Signet Group), Sarah Carpin (Facets PR), Adam Jacobs (Jacobs of Reading), Jaysal Pattini (Minar Jewellers), Peter Green (Fabicius Green) and from House Creative: Christine Colbert and Sasha Lowe. Lindsey Straughton the NAJ marketing manager is a guiding hand along with Simon Johnson and Michael Rawlinson.

There is much work to do and my colleagues on the steering group are embracing it with all vigour.

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1 CARAT SINGLE STONE RING As promoted & best selling line in 2015 and 2016.

SEE US AT IJL — STAND C38 H.W. Tankel (Scotland) Ltd, 33A Gordon Street, Glasgow G1 3PF Tel: 0141 226 2200 • Fax: 0141 221 3040 • Email: enquiries@tankel.co.uk www.tankel.co.uk

Going For GOLD

Responsible SOURCING

The Fairtrade Foundation has announced a new campaign to raise awareness of the value of buying Fairtrade Gold. Victoria Waugh, the organisation’s gold product manager describes the activities in store.

The campaign kicks off with a series of events across the UK to educate people on the challenges affecting the artisanal and small-scale gold mining sector. Visiting Glasgow, London, Carlisle, Birmingham, Leicester, North Wales and the South West, two gold miners from East Africa and Peru will inspire audiences with stories of their lives working in mines to produce gold for the UK jewellery sector. The miners will also spend time with Fairtrade Gold jewellers to learn how their gold is transformed into jewellery collections.

Fairtrade’s aim is to amplify the voice of the miners by galvanising support from its network of hundreds of thousands of advocates across the UK. Fairtrade’s 600 community campaign groups will be asked to take to the high street to encourage jewellers and shoppers to choose Fairtrade Gold. One area of focus will be on Fairtrade’s network of over 7,000 Fairtrade churches, which will be encouraging couples to choose Fairtrade Gold for their bridal jewellery.

Regional activities will be supported by an ongoing programme of promotional work. This will include allowing Fairtrade Gold jewellers to take over the Fairtrade Foundation’s social media channels to promote their own collections and events.

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Throughout the campaign the Foundation will support staff selling Fairtrade Gold by providing training materials to help them better respond to customer enquiries on the provenance of their jewellery, and to illustrate the benefits of choosing Fairtrade Gold.

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Producing jewellery made with Fairtrade Gold is a flexible and cost effective way of sourcing gold responsibly and with transparency, through a system that’s recognised and trusted by shoppers. It allows businesses to tell real stories about the people behind their gold.

There are currently 16 million small-scale gold miners and a further 100 million people who indirectly rely on smallscale mining for a living. Small-scale mining is one of the most dangerous industries in the world, and miners often work in very remote areas and harsh conditions, with little or no health and safety measures in place.

Fairtrade Gold offers a lifeline to these miners, their families and communities. Fairtrade sets strict standards on working conditions, women’s rights, child labour and environment management and supports miners to achieve them; in return miners gain access to markets and receive an extra sum of money to develop their businesses and invest into their communities.

The Fairtrade Foundation invites NAJ members to visit their website www.fairtrade.org.uk/goldbusiness for information on sourcing Fairtrade Gold, or to contact gold@fairtrade.org.uk for details of how to get involved with the campaign.

The NAJ have recently formed a steering group focusing on Politics & Public Affairs. They are currently updating the resources it produces for members, with regard to responsible sourcing and other related issues. Members will be informed as soon as these have been uploaded to the NAJ website.

The NAJ AWARDS 2016 NOMINATIONS NOW OPEN

The NAJ Awards 2016 is the jewellery industry’s true mark of excellence acknowledging and celebrating the outstanding contributions our members have made in 2016.

Categories are: • Designer of the Year (sponsored by Clogau) • Jewellery & Watch Supplier of the Year (sponsored by the Company of Master Jewellers) • Workshop Employee of the Year (sponsored by Maker Mends) • Service Supplier of the Year (sponsored by Warrior Doors and Shire Leasing) • Retailer of the Year – 1-5 Shops (sponsored by Treasure House Company) • Retailer of the Year – Over 5 Shops (sponsored

by Hockley Mint) • E-tailer of the Year (sponsored by Bransom) • NAJ KickStart Award (sponsored by International Jewellery London).

The generous headline sponsor for the NAJ Awards is Birmingham and London-based River Mounts, the trophies have been sponsored by Fattorini, Cooksongold and the Birmingham Assay Office, and Presman Mastermelt is funding the Awards brochure.

Nominations can be made online: www.naj.co.uk/en/naj-awards-2016 and must be made by 12 noon on 16th September.

The NAJ Awards 2016 will be presented at the Benevolent Ball, St. John’s Hotel, Birmingham on Thursday 1st December 2016.

Tickets £77 + VAT per table, tables for 12 £850 + VAT. This year, all tickets include half a bottle of wine per person.

For tickets contact Gill Price at gill.price@batf.uk.com or on 0121 237 1138.

THE NAJ AWARDS 2016

Following shortlisting by our judging panel, the trade and public vote will take place between 22nd September and 31st October.

AR A IN SK

IJL PREVIEW

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International Jewellery London is just moments away, and as exhibitors old and new, from home and away, dot the i’s and cross the t’s of collections, stands and PoS, here’s a snapshot preview of the show’s many highlights.

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

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STRENGTH SHOW OF

One strong draw for visitors to a major trade show is the discovery of new brands, emerging designers, international names, event newcomers and returnees. IJL this year is promising a strong representation of all five categories.

The recently-introduced ‘Market Focus’ feature, will, this year, highlight companies from Germany, but in fact the 500-plus exhibitors have been drawn from 33 countries. The international lineup not only includes individual companies from Australia, Columbia, Brazil, Greece, Germany and Denmark, for example, but also Country Pavilions from Hong Kong, South Africa and Sri Lanka, together with the European Village.

Mingling among this global assembly is a number of brands and designers making their debut appearance at IJL. A random selection gives a flavour of what to expect: Rose Carvalho from Brazil, Colpo & Zilio from Italy, Eleuterio from Portugal, fine jewellery designer David Miracca from London, Drakenberg Sjolin from Denmark, Grew & Co from Australia, Astley Clarke from the UK and Clogau from Wales – which is sponsoring the bags this year.

Ben Roberts of Clogau says: “Last year we restructured our brand portfolio and retail support function. We are gradually developing into a brand with three distinct propositions: fashion, beads

and bridal. IJL is the ideal platform to invite visitors into a welcoming branded environment. We view the show as a vehicle to take our retail partners on a journey through the brand’s heritage, collections, visual merchandising service and retail support.”

If discovering new talent is on your visiting must-do list, a close inspection of the fledgling designers on the NAJsupported KickStart stand is highly recommended. Following her successful social media campaign, one of the 10 – Marina Skia – has been voted by the industry as the winner of the coveted IJL 2016 ‘People’s Choice’ award and will receive a free stand in the IJL Design Gallery in 2017.

IJL PREVIEW

Advice CLINICS

One-to-one, 15-minute Advice Clinics with leading industry professionals are also on IJL’s agenda. Here’s the line-up: Fairtrade Gold advice with Victoria Waugh of Fairtrade Foundation

Wolf

Pension Advice with Richard Pope of the Workplace Pension Bureau Window and In-Store Display with Kim Field of 4D Projects Retail Display and Customer Journey with Jo Henderson of JHJ Consultancy Security choices with Hilaire O’Shea Photography with Andrew Neilson of award-winning Neilson Photography The popular sessions run on a first-come, first-served basis, so if interested, book on arrival at IJL by visiting the Advice Clinic on the upper level at Olympia.

NEED to KNOW

Visit: www.jewellerylondon/seminars for times and further information.

Venue: Olympia Grand, London Dates: Sunday 4th September: 10:00 – 19:00 Monday 5th September: 09:00 – 18:00

Eleuterio

Tuesday 6th September: 09:00 – 17:00 Free on-line visitor registration: www.jewellerylondon.com/register Tickets on the door: £25 Event Sponsor: NAJ Event supporters: CMJ, Houlden, Gem-A, GIA, RJC, CIBJO, Champagne Thiénot

Sponsored by IJL and supported by the NAJ, Bright Young Gems showcases the work of five final year jewellery students, selected by a distinguished panel including designer Shaun Leane, the FT’s Vivienne Becker and Hilary Alexander OBE of Hello Fashion Monthly. This year’s winners are: Stephanie Wills and Katy Tromans (Birmingham City University); Talisa Bergen and Shiyun Chen (Central St Martins) and Rebecca Wilkes (a Design for Industry graduate of Birmingham School for Jewellery).

If you can tear yourself away from the aisles, catwalk shows and networking opportunities, the event offers a comprehensive seminar programme, with content ranging from an inaugural Q&A session with designers Theo Fennell and Tomasz Donocik (hosted by GCDC chairman Jos Skeates of ECOne), to a conversation with new Gem-A CEO Alan Hart; advice on increasing sales and visibility via social media (Katerina Perez and Beanie Major); diamond futures; trends – of the market as well as catwalk

variety and thought-provoking debates on good business practice for the future of retailing. All food for thought.

If it appears that sales presentations are particularly slick this year, it might be down to a new App for sales executives that is being made available free to IJL exhibitors. It is specifically designed to enhance the selling process. In association with IJL organiser Reed Exhibitions, the offer comes from the App’s developer – sales and stock technology company Pursuit Software. As well as an IJL selling tool, exhibitors will be able to use it for a free trial period of two months.

Operating on a mobile device, the App holds cross-searchable records containing details and images for all collections and options. Searches can home-in on type of design, prices, colours, stones, metals, specifications and other variables.

The show is not all about jewellery of course. Besides the handful of watch brands (Bering, O.W.L, Festina, Lotus, Storm, BQ Watches, Intercity Group…); loose diamonds and gemstones

Stephen Lussier

Alan Hart

(newcomers Hudson Emeralds for instance and Maygems) there’s a varied selection of companies offering services and ‘jewellery solutions’ – from findings, tools, packaging and display, to insurance, security, CAD/CAM and EPoS. For example, making its UK launch at IJL is the ‘Marrakesh’ collection by the 182-year-old leather goods and watch winder company WOLF. Inspired by the intricate studwork from the North African city, leather and metal have been melded to produce a collection of jewellery boxes and travel cases. Meanwhile, packaging company Talbots Group will be introducing its sophisticated new ‘couture’ collection of tactile boxes and bags in contemporary blue and grey shades. An updated website and slick new brochure, to support customers, complement the line.

Over the next 10 pages our ‘Look Book’ highlights just a few of the new names and collections, across the many product categories, that IJL will be showcasing.

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Jos Skeates

27

NEWCOMERS

IJL PREVIEW

LOOK BOOK

Whether first-timers or IJL stalwarts, from high fashion to haute jewellery – there’s so much to check out at the show. Over these pages we offer an overview of new names and new collections, across various categories… just a fraction of what will be unveiled, but nonetheless a taster of treasures to uncover…

NIQUESA (D140)

Niquesa

Italian passion flows through the fine jewellery house founded in 2013 by Luigi and Elisabetta de Simone Niquesa. Working with third-generation goldsmith Ruggero Rocchetti, Elizabetta’s designs are brought to life in exotic, eye-catching jewellery using unusual combinations of gemstones. The ‘Ophidian’ collection reflects the texture and movement of serpents.

RIA POYNTON (P66) Ria’s wire-based work takes inspiration from existing objects and geometric forms, with the latest Telkari Rectangular collection being a modernlooking development of complex traditional filigree pieces. In sterling silver, the jewellery is thicker and therefore robust enough to wear every day.

DRAKENBERG SJÖLIN (F31) Inspired by the galaxy, the new ‘Milky Way’ collection of minimalist pieces in 18ct gold and silver and diamonds, offers a more playful, raw approach to fine jewellery – luxury for everyday life. Working with diamonds in “a bigger way” than before, the Danish brand aims to reach a wider audience.

Ria Poynton

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

ASTLEY CLARKE (S140)

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Drakenberg Sjölin

Inspired by symbolic bracelets exchanged during the Indian Festival of Rakhi, the ‘Biography’ collection of grown-up friendship bracelets and necklaces comes in a choice of gemstones featuring talismans and icons. Each is finished with Astley Clarke’s signature star-set lapis. Some charm designs feature on 18ct yellow gold vermeil. Mini stud earrings and rings are set with white sapphires CORNERSTONE (S60)

Astley Clarke Cornerstone

Grew & Co

As well as still-under-wraps pieces that exemplify the Paul Spurgeon aesthetic and ethos (some 18ct rose gold-plated), Cornerstone will be showing polished and satin finish sterling silver ‘Cradle’ designs, as well as newly-launched pieces designed and crafted by Project South Africa.

GREW & CO (S118) The Australian jewellery brand will be launching its collection of modern, textured rings for men and women, in tantalum – a valuable and rare element that is highly resistant to corrosion and oxidisation, with a weight similar to platinum and with a dark graphite black tone.

J E W ELLERY FO R TH E RE A L WO RLD Tel: 020 7405 5523 sales@uniquejewelry.co.uk www.uniqueandco.com

Stand F60

BRIDAL JEWELLERY

IJL PREVIEW THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

TANKEL (C38) Tankel continues to see a strong demand for large diamonds between 3-6cts. There is also a noticeable increase in demand for 1ct brilliant cuts, good colour and SI that are priced from £1,300.

MAGNUS & BELLA (S63) Co-winner of the NAJ Charity Charm Competition, bespoke jewellers Magnus & Bella will introduce their debut wedding collection. The handcrafted, British-made pieces are in 18ct gold – including a green gold alloy, made by Bella – and include wedding bands for men as well as salt and pepper diamond-set rings.

GEMEX (D30)

Tankel

Gemex has extended its popular, awardwinning range of halo style rings and will be unveiling many new styles with round and fancy set centres. Engagement ring mounts come with or without the centre stone and all sit flush with a wedding band. All centre stones are either IGI or GIA certificated.

CORONA JEWELLERY Incorporating 18ct Canadian Certified Gold, set with Canadian Maple Leaf diamonds, Corona will be showing its collection of beautiful and dramatic engagement rings, as well as the ‘Enchanted Garden’ line of gold and diamond jewellery designed exclusively for ample Leaf Diamonds by Shelly Purdy.

Magnus & Bella

HOCKLEY MINT (B20) The award-winning fine/bridal jewellery will unveil a fluid, modern range of designer bridal jewellery, plus a new direction for its WedFit line. Refined and delicate, each new piece has its own subtle sculptural detail, plus matching ladies and gents rings and coordinated earrings, pendants, necklaces and bracelets.

Gemex

Corona

Hockley Mint

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Continental (see page 34)

Domino

DOMINO (D60) New designs for Domino’s ‘Rosabella’ line will take centre stage at IJL – both classic and contemporary pieces across a range of price points. Of particular interest are the suites featuring colourful cabochon stones – such as iolites, as seen here, peridot, citrine, garnet, ruby and sapphire… as well, of course, as diamonds.

EW ADAMS (C41) An IJL first-timer, third generation, family-run EW Adams celebrates its 70th anniversary this year. Renowned for its fine collections of diamond and gemstone jewellery, crafted by highlyskilled goldsmiths in its own London workshops, it will be showing new 18ct gold rings, including a unique grey moonstone, star sapphire, tanzanite, coral and fire opal cluster, with diamonds.

ANDREW GEOGHEGAN (R118) Time spent in his South of France studio has inspired Andrew Geoghegan to add many new miniature masterpieces to his AG Collections – including this 18ct white gold, ‘Clair de Lune Azure’ ring with sapphire, aquamarine and diamond. Expect also impactful ‘Chapiteau’ cocktail rings, delicate fluted ‘Cannelé’ bracelets and ‘Clair de Lune’ drop earrings.

SEPANTA (E148) Two bold and contemporary collections of fine diamond and gemset jewellery are being launched by the Sepanta designers. Both inspired by ancient Persian motifs, ‘Mouj’ explores the symmetry of geometric Persian carpets, while ‘Zinat’ shows distinctive fine patterns embedded on the surface of the jewellery.

Diamond & Gem set JEWELLERY 32

SHELDON BLOOMFIELD (C81) The bespoke range has grown, with gemstones including aquamarine, ametrine, watermelon tourmaline, kunzite, morganite, emeralds, rubies and sapphires. Also broadened is the popular double halo line – a single row of diamonds alongside a row of fancy coloured sapphires, tsavorite garnets or rubies.

TIVON (D110) Showing two main new collections: ‘Heirloom’ – dedicated to traditional, timeless gemstones which are passed down from generation to generation (featuring fine rubies, sapphires and emeralds), and ‘Deco’ – a throwback to when inspiration came from architecture, geometric shapes and bold colours.

RAW PEARLS (A70) Raw Pearls will be introducing new additions to its range of classic and contemporary pearl jewellery, high quality loose pearls and clasps – diamond-set earrings and pendants. Aimed at a new generation of pearl-wearers, these will join elegant pearl ropes and rings.

IJL PREVIEW EW Adams

Andrew Geoghegan

Sepanta

Sheldon Bloomfield

Raw Pearls

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Rachel Galley

Tivon

33

Gold JEWELLERY

IJL PREVIEW THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

MARK MILTON (D80) A new selection of colourful gemstones in a variety of shapes and cuts – blue topaz, amethyst, citrine, tourmaline, morganite and prasiolite – is ensuring that Mark Milton’s 9ct gold collection is brighter and bolder than ever. Meanwhile the 18ct and diamond collection has been joined by quirky, contemporary pieces.

BIIJU (R24) New pieces have been added to the popular ‘Careless Rhythms’ 18ct gold collection. The statement pieces, inspired by sand dunes of Africa and Peru, feature rock quartz. The new ‘Satin Ribbons’ range in 18ct rose gold features ontrend, interchangeable ear pieces such as jackets, climbers and studs.

FEI LIU (R130) This ‘Golden Star’ bangle featuring citrine and yellow gold vermeil is part of a new glittering collection inspired by the movement of shooting stars and aimed to offer fine jewellery at an accessible price. Also on show will be the sterling silver ‘Snowflake’ line set with cz stones and with hair accessories added to the range.

CONTINENTAL JEWELLERY (D120) The Continental collection combines classic designs with state-of-the-art technology and includes the company’s best-selling channel, pavé and claw-set eternity and wedding rings in 18ct gold with GVS quality diamonds from 0.10ct to 1.50ct. All pieces are available from stock.

ELSA SARANTIDOU (S21) The London-trained, Greek jewellery designer’s passion for jewellery was stimulated by the need to create something new and different, leading her into an adventurous journey of forms and shapes.

Mark Milton

CLOGAU (D61) Clogau has several new 9ct gold pieces, created in response to retailer demand – including ‘Serenade®’, inspired by musical notes and moonlight, and new pieces in the best-selling lines ‘Eternity’ and ‘Tree of Life®’. Also launching this season is a new take on ‘Debutante’, plus ‘Kensington’ and ‘Origin’ collections.

Drakenberg Sjölin

Fei Liu Biiju

Continental Elsa Sarantidou

34

Clogau

1786 - 2016

CRAFTSMANSHIP | DESIGN | HERITAGE

PROUD TO CELEBRATE 230 YEARS OF CREATIVE CRAFTSMANSHIP As England’s oldest family jeweller, we are immensely proud of our British heritage and have been designing & manufacturing the finest, luxury cufflinks & accessories since 1786.

Llimited Edition, Commemorative Coin Cufflinks

www.deakinandfrancis.co.uk CUFFLINKS, CUFFLINKS,JEWELLERY JEWELLERY&&FINE FINEACCCESSORES CCCESSORES VISIT US AT IJL, LONDON; STAND C01 AND JOIN US FOR A CELEBRATORY DRINK

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Silver JEWELLERY

IJL PREVIEW THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Dower & Hall

DOWER & HALL (R110) The new ‘Wild Rose’ collection draws on the signature Dower & Hall style with nature-inspired, sculpted curved forms. Romantic roses, the eternal symbols of love, are transformed into chic and timeless pieces crafted from sterling silver and also available with 18ct gold vermeil.

VAMP LONDON (R68) The vibe, spirit and style of summer festivals together with the lifestyle of Brazil, provides the inspiration for Vamp’s new ‘Rio’ collection. Available in sterling silver with rhodium, ruthenium, rose and yellow gold plating.

AMORE ARGENTO (B89) Amore Argento – love silver – goes back to basics with ‘Classico’, celebrating the classic cluster design available as a ring, matching earrings and pendant. Sterling silver is combined with CZ and gemstones such as sapphires, rubies and emeralds… complete with new packaging.

GECKO (E70) The leading jewellery supplier will be launching eight new collections for men, women and children. These include Orla Kiely’s first sterling silver line of charms; statement silhouettes from Fiorelli Silver; fluid forms with Swarovski crystals in the Elements silver collection and Noah’s Arkinspired forms for D for Diamond children’s jewellery.

CW SELLORS (D40) The Derbyshire-based brand renowned for its work with Whitby Jet, and other coloured stones, will be introducing its Christmas-inspired collection featuring snow flakes, candy canes, reindeer and, shown here, sterling silver gift pendants holding a range of stones including lapis lazuli, jet and malachite.

UNO DE 50 (E50) The Spanish brand is introducing ‘The Special Ones’ – its boldest collection to date, inspired by rock music, bohemian lifestyle, retro design and the animal world. Key elements include spiky, sharktooth-inspired triangles, punk stars and silver mixed with materials such as leather, beading and olive wood.

SHEILA FLEET (R94) With their origins in ancient stone carvings, the new ‘Lunar’ and ‘Brodgar Eye’ collections are created using textured silver to mimic the rough rock and peck-marks made by our ancestors. The ‘misty’ blue enamel reflects rainwater gathered in the carvings.

Orla Kiely at Gecko Amore Argento Vamp London

Sheila Fleet

CW Sellors

Uno de 50

SARAH HO (R136) Celebrating her 10th anniversary this year, Sarah Ho will launch a collection of ‘high jewellery’ designs, additions to the ‘Numerati’ concept and new ‘Vita Vitae’ and ‘Paradis’ pieces.

The ‘Blue Lotus Suite’ comprises 55cts of blue sapphires, 15cts of diamonds and adds a modern twist with a double finger ring.

GfG (S54) The ‘Cara Collection’ was inspired by the quote by Alexander Pushkin: “Inspiration is needed for geometry...” and GfG believes the same applies for jewellery. Nilufer Kizilkaya created her 18ct gold vermeil collection using waves, parallel bars and gemstones for the elegant final colourful touch.

RACHEL GALLEY (R90) Rachel’s ‘Snowdrop’ collection features new pieces set with black sapphire and black pearl – a collar, pendants and earrings.

The new ‘Misto’ line sees blue topaz of amethysts in rub over settings of silver latticework for cluster earrings, cuff, bracelets, rings and studs.

ISABELLA LIU (R28) The award-winning, London-based Chinese artist-designer will reveal her new ‘Sea Rhymes’ collection, featuring swirling lines, with each piece holding an agate bead. The jewellery has been created using CAD and 3D printing – a new departure for Liu, with smaller elements worked by hand.

DESIGNERS

LUCYQ (R108) Lucy Quartermaine’s new ‘Icicle’ Collection showcases simple, but chic designs inspired by the extraordinary large icicles Lucy saw on a recent holiday. She has created a range of solid sterling silver jewellery that is tactile, organic and fluid in its shape – and which works well for both a day and night-time look.

Lucy Quartermaine

ALEXIS DOVE (S106) Celebrating her 10th anniversary this year, Alexis Dove will launch the new delicate ‘English Rose’ collection in sterling silver and gold vermeil. Meanwhile the ‘Menagerie’ line will be enhanced with dinosaur charms for bangles and necklaces.

SARAH JORDAN (S130) The multi-award-winning designer is launching ‘Cirrus’, a collection of delicate shapes and swirling tendrils that curl around to make sweeping shapes. Made in silver and 18ct gold, diamonds are used at key points to emphasise the sculptural aspects of the design.

GfG

Rachel Galley

Alexis Dove

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Sarah Ho

Sarah Jordan Isabella Liu

37

Unique & Co

38

Fashion JEWELLERY

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Bronzallure

Edblad

Sif Jakobs

Fiorelli Fashion

BRONZALLURE (D41) Inspired by Italian sculpture, art and architecture, Bronzallure MILANO is unveiling new additions to the ‘Altissima Collection’. The curved ‘Stardust’ bangle with its cluster of pavé set CZ stones, the 18ct rose gold ‘Romanze Sphere’ bangle with cz accents and chain necklace, ring and earrings complete the sparkly mood.

Nikki Lissoni

Diamonfire

UNIQUE & CO (F60) This contemporary, affordable, well-crafted collection comprises two collections: one in sterling silver (nature-inspired and using different textures and finishes), the other in stainless steel and leather and adorned with freshwater pearl drops, crystal balls and charms.

SIF JAKOBS (D91) Straight lines and dynamic contrasts exemplify the feel of the Danish designer’s new ‘Rufina’ collection. Cool, elegant and modern the signature selection featuring sparkling stones, includes this multi-row ring, as well as earrings, pendants, cuffs and bracelets.

FIORELLI FASHION (E70) Fusing cut crystals, modern orbs and dynamic geometric forms – Fiorelli Fashion presents a statement range of contemporary classics. The blend of minimalist structure and decadent detailing reflects a cool and creative collection to dress up or down.

NIKKI LISSONI (G20) Inspired by the trend for stackable rings across several fingers, Nikki Lissoni has created a new double ring to make a statement with only one ring on a finger. Fashionable but elegant, the rings are interchangeable with the ring coins from the current collection.

EDBLAD (F30) The Swedish jewellery and lifestyle brand will be introducing its ‘Velvet’ collection which unites Swedish minimalism with opulent styling. Featured materials will be rose and yellow gold, stainless steel, brass and sparkling stones and the new Edblad LAB line will also be unveiled.

DIAMONFIRE (E90) Offering a high-quality, max-sparkle alternative to diamond jewellery, Diamonfire is introducing a collection featuring strong colour cz stones – in particular black and Champagne tones. This cocktail ring comes with black stones bordered by white and both styles are complemented by stud earrings.

UK 0800 1956771

| ROI 1800 625163

| info@curteis.com

w w w. c urt ei s . c o m Advert_TheJeweller_Sep_16.pdf 1 08/08/2016 09:11:49

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Men’s JEWELLERY & WATCHES

IJL PREVIEW THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

UNIQUE & CO (F60) Stylish and functional, the collections are inspired by architecture and engineering, and with attention to detail. Durable necklaces, bracelets, cufflinks and rings are made in stainless steel, titanium and tungsten.

Braided leather is used for bracelets with stainless steel elements and special clasps.

O.W.L (E108) The fledgling collection of watches for men has been extended this season and includes ‘Filton’, a modern vintage-style timepiece inspired by field watches of the 1940s and the details of airmen’s dress at the time.

Available in three colourways, each with a brushed and polished case.

ANCHOR & CREW (Q78) As well as a new range of leather bracelets and silver chain bracelets, Anchor & Crew will be launching a collection of stainless steel, colourfully minimalist wristwatches. Expect signature nautical detailing!

DEAKIN & FRANCIS (C01) With an amazing 230 years under its (doubtless silver studded) belt, Deakin & Francis is celebrating with a new ‘230 Capsule Collection’ of cufflinks. The seventh generation custodians of the Birmingham-based business – James and Henry Deakin, are telling its story (pirates and all) through six different designs on gold plated sterling silver cufflinks.

FESTINA (F60) Value for money combined with strong, modern designs have put this Spanish watch brand on the international map. As well as showing watches inspired by its association with cycling and the Tour de France, Festina also offers classic, casual and elegant timepieces.

LOTUS (F60) An unusual case shape and simple dial sets this ladies’ watch apart from others and is in contrast to the sporty, rugged and classic models from this brand.

FRED BENNETT (E70) A strong offering with an industrial theme, this collection includes 925 silver, stainless steel and leather, with new additions like collar pins, tie clips and signet rings for the ‘gent’ look (and a first for the brand).

Unique & Co

Anchor & Crew

Fred Bennett Deakin & Francis

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EMILY RICHARDSON (T10C) A 2008 Bright Young Gem, Emily draws her inspiration from dramatic icons, fantastical film, literature and the arts, with her pieces blending creative expression with wearable design. The 18ct gold ‘Dali’ collection features an array of gemstones.

Marina Skia

JOANNA BURY (T10E) An IJL Bright Young Gem in 2014, Joanna specialises in contemporary ‘statement’ jewellery pieces formed in materials such as sand-blasted glass-like acrylic and precious metals. Her distinct style and lace-like textures, links back to her training as a lingerie designer.

CF CONCEPT (T10H) Charlotte Scott Moncrieff’’s CF Collection draws on the years she spent living in northern Denmark – the clear Scandinavian aesthetic is characterised by clean lines and striking silhouettes for solid gold pieces that are wearable, yet edgy.

Vicky Lew

Joanna Bury

CF Concept

Emily Richardson

Other KickStarters include: Sammie Jo Coxon, Addalit, Emma Calvert, Célcile Gilbert and Lucas Mitchell.

IJL PREVIEW THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

VICKY LEW (T10A) A First Class Honours student, Vicky honed her skills with Cartier and Swarovski before launching her début ‘Flight’ collection. The fine jewellery pieces featuring pave-set stones, capture the “transient moment of birds in flight”.

KICKSTARTERS

MARINA SKIA (T10I) This Greek jeweller designs and creates elegant fashion jewellery in brass and silver that is inspired by the natural world. Marina’s strongest sources of inspiration are the sea and the motion of water, for pieces that are graphic, bold and often geometric in form.

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Spotlight on GEMSTONES

Pippa Small

Tayma

ROMANCING the STONE - lapis lazuli

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Andrew Fellows FGA DGA looks at lapis lazuli, one of the oldest recorded gemstones on the planet.

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Technically, or mineralogically speaking, lapis isn’t really a single material, but a combination of several, the blue coming from lazurite, white marbling effects from calcite, and the highly desirable golden flecks from inclusions of pyrite. So lapis is actually a rock, albeit one of the most attractive ones around. A refractive index in the region of 1.50 helps identification, but it’s one of those materials that has a distinctive appearance, unlike so many other gems.

Lapis lazuli has a long and illustrious history, having been mined in the Kakcha River area of Afghanistan for more than 6,000 years. One of the first recorded accounts of its use was by a Sumerian queen, Puabi, in the 3rd millennium BC. She apparently wore gowns studded with gems and precious metals, and royal robes of gold and silver, inlaid with the finest lapis lazuli. Other ancient texts record treasures captured during wars and raids, listing lapis ahead of gold and silver, and other gemstones.

This theme of value carried through other cultures, with lapis always regarded as a stone of royalty. Egyptians used it for amulets and scarabs, and it was given the highest honour – used to inlay and accent the funeral masks of pharaohs like Tutankhamun. The striking blue eyes of the statue of Ebih-Il, seen in the Louvre, Paris, are lapis-fashioned. All these cultures sourced lapis from the famous Afghanistan mines. Over the millennia, lapis has been used for carvings, statues, boxes and vases; a notable example is in Russia’s Hermitage museum – a two-metre-high urn carved from a single piece of deep blue rock.

For artists, lapis provided the source material for the paint ultramarine, regarded as the most expensive blue available, and used by painters like Vermeer (notably in his painting ‘Girl With A Pearl Earring’). Chinese culture preferred more personal use, turning lapis into eyebrow makeup, with larger pieces retained for carvings.

Although this deep blue is the shade most well known for lapis, it actually occurs in a range of shades, from deep violet through to dark and light blues, and even turquoises and green-blue. These latter shades can be caused by higher levels of pyrite, and although sometimes seen as lower quality, can be attractive in their own right. The most intense colours are primarily sourced from Afghanistan and Persia, and these can lack the golden flecks that some desire. Siberian lapis provides a greater range of colours, with a greater pyrite and calcite content, while Chilean lapis shows more green areas. German and Swiss lapis also exist, but these aren’t a true form of lapis lazuli, but a dyed form of jasper. As with most gem materials, imitations abound!

Crystal healers harness the power of lapis – seeing it as a stone of meditation which can increase powers of intuition and psychic awareness. It can aid in improving judgement and promote truth and the desire for knowledge. Carrying or wearing lapis can protect against illnesses that cause fainting and weaknesses of the heart, and, some claim, can cure illnesses of the ear, nose and throat. It also provides the wearer with protection from all forms of psychic attack, deflecting negative energies and returning them to source.

So… a stone of total healing, giving all-round benefits.

And it’s beautiful! Lapis jewellery nowadays tends to take the form of beads or cabochons. Beads tend to be well-formed and spherical – the structure of lapis lends itself well to this form. Being more of a rock, lapis lacks easily-cleaved or fractured directions, making it more durable than some materials, despite being only 5 to 6 on the Mohs’ hardness scale. Its opaque nature makes this a logical choice for cabochons, highlighting the vibrant blue and the dispersed golden pyrite flecks. A gold setting complements the inclusions. Cartier designs have employed lapis as carved flowers, and as birds, one such design selling for over £12,000, at a Bonhams auction in 2015. Recognition indeed!

H OCK L E Y

MINT

HONEST BRITISH CRAFTSMANSHIP

WINNER

Member SPOTLIGHT THE MARK OF PROFESSIONALISM

44

to SHINE Sarah Sinton of Richard Sinton Jewellers in Newcastle upon Tyne is an increasingly active member of the Association – she recently joined the Steering Group for Education. We spoke to her about the family business.

Member SPOTLIGHT

have someone who has a similar business, who you can phone for a different perspective on an issue.

I also put my name forward to be on the committee to assess if any changes needed to be made to the JET courses, which we are currently working on. This came about as a couple of my staff who were doing the courses asked me for some help and I had to question the relevance of some of it to business.

I have sent staff on the courses in the past but most of those have since moved on. The ones who remain have been with me for at least 13 years. I would definitely recommend the revamped course to any future staff – that’s why I’m helping to (hopefully) improve it!

Has the store always sold watches? Is this a growing area and do you seek out new brands?

Watches have never been a big part of our business. The main brands like Breitling, Cartier, Rolex etc are in the multiples so we have been limited in the brands that we have been able to stock. In the past we have had Bell & Ross, Jaeger Le Coultre, Oris and Tissot amongst others, but styles and tastes change and we’ve never had a very quick turnover. At the moment we have Bering, Roamer, Longines, Bremont, Henry and Elie Beaumont – a mix of precision engineering for the connoisseurs, through to inexpensive fashion.

It’s working for us at the moment.

Since we started stocking more fashion-orientated brands the volume of watches we’re selling has increased.

Elie Beaumont in particular – ladies are buying two or three at a time! They come in different colours and retail at £49! For the men it can still be about serious timekeeping, but even for them it is increasingly about style.

How important is your online presence? Do you do much e-tailing or is it more like a shop window to draw customers to the shop itself?

We believe that an online presence is very important, however I personally think that we have to be realistic about how much we can actually sell on it. It is a constant work in progress; keeping products and promotions up to date, making sure it looks fresh and keeping up with the technicalities of it as well – making sure it’s easy to use, all in working order. I’m happy to delegate all that!

We have done quite well with branded items like Links of London, although we have sold some larger diamond pieces as well. Not everything we sell is on our website yet, but I know that what is on it has drawn customers into the shop as a few have said: “I’ve seen a ring/necklace etc on your website...”

Do you do other social media activities – Twitter etc.? How relevant is that to your customers?

How about in-store activities?

We do Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram mostly, and Twitter. We also do a monthly email newsletter. New ranges, promotions and any points of interest all go on them. You have to tailor it to the relevent group of customers. Our social media presence is a bit fledgling at the moment, however we have had some good responses from our newsletter.

We haven’t done anything of note in-store for a while now. We have had several party evenings where we have taken over the whole of our floor of Eldon Garden, which have been quite successful over the years, but can become a bit stale.

THE MARK OF PROFESSIONALISM

What is the history of Richard Sinton Jewellers? When was it established and by who?

My parents Richard and Sue Sinton opened in Queen’s Square, Newcastle upon Tyne in 1984.

The Square was a redesigned cinema and we were in the original projectionist’s room! The store showcased beautiful jewellery as well as objects d’art in a gallery-like environment – unusual at that time. We moved to our current location in Eldon Garden in 1989. We have expanded twice over the past 27 years – last time 10 years ago, to the size we are now, although we make little changes fairly frequently.

When did you join the business and was this always your plan? How has your role developed in that time?

I had always worked during school/university holidays, when needed, starting with the basics.

When I left university I didn’t really know what I wanted to do so I worked full time for a few months. During this time I realised that it was really what I wanted to do but I wanted to gain more in-depth knowledge. I also discovered a tutor down south who was offering FGA Preliminary and Diploma tuition in an intensive, one-year course for a small group. I managed to get a place and moved down to London.

After I passed that in 1994, I got a job with Mappin & Webb to go and set up and work in their new store in Prague. After a year I came back home with the intention of actually going back down to London. While looking for a job I covered a couple of staff holidays in our shop and never left! I started doing the day-to-day enquiries, then eventually took over stock control and the majority of the buying.

How has the shop itself changed since the early days? It has moved location in that time – what effect did the new premises have on the store?

We had to move as the original centre just didn’t have a high enough footfall. The new centre, just off the main shopping mall Eldon Square, was billed as more exclusive, for higher class retail outlets and it was when it started.

Footfall was much better so the business grew considerably. But we have always been a destination store, as we’re not in the main mall and much of our business still came from word of mouth.

What is the most significant change that you (personally and as a business generally) witnessed in the jewellery industry over the last few years?

I think the biggest change I have seen since I started in the business is the increased collaboration between manufacturers and retailers to improve products. When suppliers started taking on board what our customers were saying, and tweaking their products, it improved business all round and changed working relationships.

I suppose the culmination of that is the recent unification of the N.A.G. and the BJA into the allencompassing NAJ. Exciting times ahead.

How involved do you get in the NAJ and its various activities? What do you get out of being a member? Do you send staff on JET courses?

Just over 18 months ago I joined the EDF (or JBN as it has recently been renamed), which has helped me to understand my business a lot better and to identify key areas that are or aren’t working and change accordingly. It has also increased my network of independent retailers and I have met some lovely people through it. It really helps to

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Rock Vault PREVIEW

Rachel Boston

Lily Kamper

Dalia Daou

ROCK ON! Shimmel + Madden

Frances Wadsworth Jones

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Those searching for strong design talent should factor London Fashion Week into their buying season schedule. Award-winning Dalia Daou and designer Frances Wadsworth Jones, are the latest fine jewellers to join the prestigious Rock Vault line-up.

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Launched by the British Fashion Council in 2012, the Rock Vault installation is a small, but significant fine jewellery showcase during the five days of LFW (16th – 20th September, Designer Showrooms, Brewer Street Car Park, London W1). Curated by British designer Stephen Webster MBE, the selected group of innovative designers are awarded space within the Rock Vault area and also receive business support mentoring.

Dalia Daou’s new designs are a little more avant-garde and Phoenix-inspired, moving to more feminine forms and with a return to kaleidoscope coloured stones. In keeping with the light references throughout the collections, the fire-bird also symbolises renewal and rebirth which is so apt for the Daou story.

Speaking about being selected, Dalia says: “Rock Vault is something I have watched since before I launched and have always planned to apply for. I felt this year I had developed the brand enough to go for it. I hope to gain from the mentorship, profile and support Rock Vault provides to make the most of the unique story of Daou jewellery and further develop the brand both creatively, with respect to our heritage, and commercially.”

Stephen Webster MBE commented: “This year with just two places to fill from a total of 25 applicants, the panel spent the whole day inspecting and discussing each designer’s presentation, but the final decision was unanimous. The work of both Dalia Daou and Frances Wadsworth Jones is original, inspired and full of potential for great things ahead, contributing to the diversity and excitement now synonymous with Rock Vault.”

“Rock Vault is such a great opportunity to present the full collection to a new audience and This season the group of six to launch Frances Wadsworth designers comprises two new Jones as a fine jewellery brand,” names – NAJ member Dalia Daou, comments Frances. “Having the who this year took the prize for support and endorsement of the New Designer of the Year at the BFC at this time in my career UK Jewellery Awards, and ‘quietly really is invaluable. The collection provocative’ jeweller Frances I will be showing is ‘Thieves’ – a Wadsworth Jones. They will series of intricate, playful and be joined in the special area by surreal narrative pieces featuring Completed Works, Lily Kamper, Completed Works little criminal 18ct gold ants.

Shimmel & Madden and Rachel The main materials for this collection Boston. (Previous Rock Valters have included Ornella Iannuzzi, Ana da Costa and Imogen are 18ct gold, precious and semi precious stones and pearls.”

Belfield.)

Autumn Fair PREVIEW

AUTUMN FAIR need to know Venue: NEC Birmingham, UK Date: 4th – 7th September, 2016 Times: Sunday – Tuesday: 09:00 – 18:00 Wednesday: 09:00 – 16:00

Reeves + Reeves

Rodney Holman Rodney Holman

BIRMINGHAM

BECKONS Banyan Jewellery

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Clementine

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In addition to its ‘Jewellery & Fashion Accessories’ sector – situated in Hall 4 – this year’s Autumn Fair, which is billed by its organisers, i2i Events, as ‘The season’s No.1 gift and home trade show’, will house 12 further themed sections covering everything from a stand-alone ‘Light Show’ through to ‘Gifts’ and ‘Home Accessories’.

The show, which opens at the NEC in Birmingham on 4th September and runs until 7th, offers the growing band of jewellery retailers who stock fashion and silver jewellery and gifts alongside their fine jewellery offer, the chance to investigate designs from some 80 exhibitors (a number of them NAJ members). It also provides access to a host of potential gift items such as small leather goods, jewellery boxes, watch boxes and cufflinks – to say nothing of exciting and fashionable props for their windows and an enormous selection of stylish home accessories, such as flower vases, for display use.

Mele + Co

Carrie Elspeth

For those seeking to update their instore systems there is a dedicated ‘Retail Solutions’ Sector where visitors will find exhibitors offering e-commerce and business services as well as payment and logistics solutions. And this show is also no slouch in showcasing packaging exhibitors, so could potentially be a good place to investigate new store-branded carrier bags. There is also a daily fashion show – a welcome chance to sit down while viewing jewellery and accessories actually being worn and providing an overview of the looks for the coming season.

Autumn Fair is primarily however, as Jonathan Holman, a director of the longestablished importer and wholesaler of fashion jewellery, Rodney Holman (H01), was keen to point out, an opportunity for retailers wanting to source stock for Christmas.

“Our Christmas jewellery always sells particularly well at this show, especially our brooch and earrings designs in Swarovski crystal, featuring things like reindeer, snowflakes, Christmas trees and robins. These retail at around £10 and make perfect gifts or fun things to wear at the office party,” he commented.

So what trends should visitors to the fair expect to see coming through in fashion jewellery generally this autumn?

“I am always rather sceptical about trends but there do seem to be an awful lot of pineapples around at the moment – and not simply in jewellery,” adds Holman.

“Our Swarovski Crystal pineapple brooch is attracting much favourable attention. Our stockists also seem to be loving flamingos. But if you want longrunning trends, there is definitely still a strong demand for neutral colours, especially grey and camel leather items, and our rose gold designs also remain popular. I see no sign of either of these trends abating.”

Another exhibitor who recognises the trend towards soft greys and beiges is the Welsh company Mele & Co (5G2) producers of jewellery and watch boxes where according to sales director Kevin Wesley ‘mink’ leather boxes have long trumped black and ivory in the popularity stakes and look like being best sellers for Christmas.

Those interested in investigating further style directions, will benefit from a series of talks to be given during the show by representatives from the global fashion trend forecasting service WGSN. These will explore the colours, looks and influences likely to dominate the gift and home and jewellery markets in 2017.

WGSN is just one of the many companies taking part in the show’s packed Seminar Programme, which is detailed in full on the website www. autumnfair.com. This takes place across four venues and covers not only trends but also e-commerce, business and sourcing and international trade and investment.

Talks are free to attend.

A key theme this year is e-commerce and confirmed big-name speakers to date include Facebook’s Niall Hanlon; Twitter’s senior retail account manager,

Catherine Bennet and award-winning interiors blogger, Jen Stanbrook of Love Chic Living, who will talk about how retailers can use Pinterest to boost their sales and engage with their customers.

Also new for this year’s Autumn Fair is ‘Meet The Experts’, in which a collection of big names from within the industry will host one-on-one retail clinics offering visitors the opportunity to seek advice about the challenges they face in their own businesses. The fullline up of participants will soon be posted on the show’s website.

But, getting back to jewellery: what else will visitors find to tempt them? Completely new exhibitors in the Fashion, Jewellery & Accessories sector this year include: Sophie Oliver Jewellery – a company specialising in sterling silver neckwear; Fresh Jewelry International, which sells silver and gold-plated designs, some incorporating pearls, and the Canadian brand Lavishy which sells inexpensive, fun jewellery as well as purses, wallets and tech accessories.

A long-term exhibitor at the show is Banyan Jewellery (H37). This Devonbased business offers a wide selection of sterling silver jewellery, featuring organic, irregular silhouettes with gold detailing and incorporating a range of gemstones such as topaz, opalite, turquoise and pearl.

MD Vanessa Zalman sees her brand’s main selling points as being the fact that its design, which is all done in-house, is unique and that its price points are accessible. “Our jewellery, because it is silver, doesn’t look out of place in a traditional jewellery shop and indeed more and more of our customers are jewellers who, because of the challenging economic climate have been forced to become more adaptable and versatile in what they stock. You aren’t going to sell high-value items on a daily basis, but a silver, pearl and amethyst cuff which retails at around £150 is accessible to a much broader audience,” she commented.

Banyan Jewellery also exhibits at International Jewellery London so I was interested to find out what message Zalman might wish to give to jewellers who may be thinking of attending Autumn Fair perhaps for the first time.

“It is a great opportunity for all of us, on both sides of the fence, to see where the wider market is leading, what the trends are and what we are going to be seeing on the High Street next year. Personally we also meet up with many loyal customers and that is what keeps us coming back,” she says.

The final word goes to i2i events portfolio director, Naomi Barton, who told me: “Autumn Fair offers retail jewellers an unrivalled cross-sector buying experience – the perfect opportunity to combine range and purchasing decisions at one show. With everything from gemstones to diamonds and trend-led catwalk shows and seminars from the likes of WGSN, Autumn Fair is a unique and necessary date in the show calendar for retail jewellers.”

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CMJ TRADE EVENT

I Love A Lassie

Cornerstone

Biiju

Positive HIGH Wobbles over Brexit notwithstanding, there was an air of optimism during the weekend of the CMJ’s German Christmas market-themed Trade Event, earlier this month, boosted certainly by very positive sales figures.

Astley Clarke

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Henryka

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The Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) was able to report that sales have risen from £152.7m to £166.6m – an increase of 9.1 per cent, which is Yulan Jewellery a new record level for the jewellery buying group. Financial director Andrew Hirshman announced the financial results at the CMJ’s AGM and CEO Willie Hamilton also referred to them in a briefing given to supplier members, then retail members of the Group. He acknowledged that the UK leaving the EU had led to uncertainty, with confidence “taking a tumble”… but declared that “confidence can be rebuilt”. He reminded members of the positives: extremely low inflation rate, stable unemployment and steady currency. Despite the fact that the post-Brexit crash is higher than it was in 2008, the silver lining is that the gold price has gone shooting up (silver likewise, so consumers are buying more silver before price hikes…).

He suggested that retailers should remember what they learned from 2008. Bridal jewellery is one area assisting CMJ’s growth – a fact highlighted by Gemex winning the Best New Collection award during the Christmas party celebrations.

“We had an excellent show!” reports the bridal and diamond jewellery brand’s sales director Lee Ruben. “Our new range of engagement rings was extremely popular and many firm orders were placed. Our range of dummy samples are working so hard for our retail partners, several placed orders for yet another box, as one is not enough, especially when serving customers on Saturdays!” Two names showing for the first time were Kasun, whose bold, fierce pieces (like vampire teeth rings) drew plenty of attention and Ntinga, a Dragon’s Den contestant at the last show, which was backed to participate fully. “The show was very successful for us as we were able to open multiple new accounts, build relationships with existing accounts and gain lots of positive feedback,” said Craig Cohen, Ntinga’s national sales manager. “Paraiba tourmalines and morganites and chocolate coloured diamonds set in 18ct rose gold were particularly popular.” The curated group of NAJ designer members enjoyed a new, airier space and the newcomers – Astley Clarke and Henryka – were both very happy with the show, having made firm contacts as well as orders. Used as a stepping stone, being in the designer maker area can reap rewards. Having Collette Waudby “prepared the ground”, Phil Barnes of Muru moved ‘up’ to be a full Phiiish supplier and as a result enjoyed an excellent show. We wish the same success for our current designers…

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EDUCATION

July’s BRANSOM winner

THE MARK OF HIGH QUALITY EDUCATION AND TRAINING

It’s not only retail staff who benefit from JET. Emma Paragreen is the curator, librarian and archivist at the Sheffield Assay Office.

She is also July’s winner of the coveted Bransom Award.

Emma is responsible for the care and preservation of a unique collection of silver and precious metal dating from 1773, company archives, reference library, pictures and furniture.

Creating marketing material is also in her remit, as is editing publications, including the Bradbury’s Book of Hallmarks.

I’m now more confident on certain aspects of jewellery, which was not my area of specialism, and feel able to answer and point people in the right direction regarding their enquiries.

What led you to this career?

I particularly enjoyed the modules on Gemstones and Diamonds (The Four Cs) and the final module on providing advice to a customer on reusing gemstones and having a new piece of jewellery commissioned.

I am fascinated by objects, the materials they are made from, how they are manufactured, the history and stories connected to the objects. I initially worked in archaeology which led to conservation and museum work and the curation of collections.

Why did you decide to take the JET course?

Over the last 10 years I’ve been dealing with many enquiries on precious metals and hallmarking. I have no formal qualifications in these subjects and having answered many students’ questions relating to JET I thought I should perhaps undertake the course myself!

How does the retail aspect of JET relate to your job?

I have contact with the trade and public via telephone, email and in person, but also give lectures, deliver object-handling sessions and tour visitors around our facilities. The modules in customer care and sales have been very valuable and really given me a clear focus on customers.

What part of the JET course did you enjoy the most?

What was the most challenging aspect?

Having not studied since my MA in 2003, it was tough to get into the habit of working in my own time and writing an essay again!

Juggling study around fulltime work requires discipline, motivation and huge thanks to my supportive family.

Would you recommend JET to others and why?

Definitely! I’ve gained a huge amount of understanding and confidence in the subject of jewellery. The course has made me take time out to read around the subject, become more aware of products, contemporary design, the market, the wider context of the jewellery trade, which is very valuable to the business. I look forward to being able to disseminate this information to my colleagues, customers and visitors.

To find out more about our JET courses visit www.naj.co.uk/en/education or come and meet us at IJL stand K26 where we will be holding JET taster sessions. For the full timetable see p8.

52

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Goldsmiths’ Fair PREVIEW THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

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Max Danger

e Cartlidg

Teri Howes

The grand interiors of the historic Goldsmiths’ Hall is the setting for what is arguably the UK’s premier showcase of jewellery and contemporary silver from 150 of the country’s leading makers. We preview some of the event’s highlights.

Over 30 years old, Goldsmiths’ Fair (27th September – 9th October) is a magnet for consumers seeking quality work from exhibitors who are vetted and selected from across the UK by a panel of experts. However, this antidote to the high street can also prove to be a happy hunting ground for jeweller y retailers and manufacturers looking to work with the best of the best British-made talent.

This year the Fair includes 23 first-time exhibitors, among them Gurmit Kaur Campbell who creates high fashion, sophisticated gemstone jeweller y, Michael Carberr y whose work evokes strands of abstract sculpture and Romilly Saumarez Smith, whose intricately ornate pieces are like wearable art. These designers join a number of returning jewellers; last year’s Best New Design Award winners Rhona McCallum and Silvia Weidenbach and the full force of established names who return to Goldsmiths’ every year.

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Goldsmiths’ Fair PREVIEW

B a rb a r

a Cartl

idge

David Fowkes

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Erin O’Connor

56

Romilly Saumarez

Smith

miths’ Centre (the charity e managed by the Golds mm gra pro miths). s ion ibit of goldsmiths and silvers l be staging special exh the professional training for in e lau nch As always, the event wil tim to t rm firs tfo the pla t for ered this perfec fairs. A feature e world The graduates being off over the two, week-long ths. ativ mi cre ers the silv e m fiv fro and ure rs ious fig comprise five jewelle s, ps eer tste car foo 2014, it invites an illustr ir the the in ing curator. Follow ring, Goldsmiths’ odel to take the role of guest -Jones is British superm to emerging to the pionee ton new Pey the ia m Jul Fro and did of Zaha Ha dge and Electr um like grace, senting ‘Barbara Cartli – renow ned for her swanpre or o onn als is O’C n r Eri Fai n of ico rds wo and – a celebration of fine ic and for being – in the A passion for Jewellery’ y: ller Ga ”. elegance, strong work eth rld reneur and wo the rlin-born British ent rep the best models in ellery by pioneering Be Karl Lagerfeld – “one of jew stmann, Fei ma Em e my personal style. designer-maker Barbara Cartlidge (né ts lec ref ion ect sel y of with the lau nch of O’Connor said: “M wcase, which coincides happily wear on a var iety sho I’d e Th ry elle 2). jew 192 of up It’s made display at e, features 25 bou ndaryary silver I’d proudly biography of the same titl por ’s tem dge con rtli Ca and ce. ons asi pie h occ eac ‘60s and ‘70s. This ree of craftsmanship in jewellery crafted in the jeweller’s home. I love the high deg g up-and-coming talent as well pushing pieces of ren mpse into the ow ned itin bold special display provides a gli and I was looking out for exc n der mo to . eer ted car rac I’m att tinguished as the more established. . Luckily I creative expression and dis nevertheless accessible are t tha effect. ces pie ent tem sta and colour to dramatic Cartlidge used big stones and n tio ura fig was spoilt for choice!” , ms for d lace While shiny surfaces, rou nded gol a e lud inc l wil y yst pla dis er, gold, ameth and The chosen 23 pieces on er and diamonds movement are present in her work, silv silv d, gol h, a c, kvi Bu a favour ite mater ials. As suc white bangle and ring by Nin of quartz cou nt among her marez Smith, an 18ct es Sau lish slic by sty t dan ally ion pen ’ ent cle ‘Sea Barna of the unconv ite and blue dge was at the forefront artisan-cut topaz and wh m and Cartli gold ring set with blue diu rho ck bla d, gol a de. kes and twar avant-gar diamonds by David Fow Max Danger. pos er, Best ring by Danish jeweller nd mo dia low ng the ‘dark side’ of silv yel r’s l nge ura nat the first time, Da An exhibition showcasi for ted by r Fai hos ’ e ths mm mi gra lds pro Go Ex hibiting at and ref lects his New Desig n Awards and a full talks ail det to e on nti to atte r that rarely fails hav work shows par ticular cialists completes a Fai spe n. ry tio ust stra ind illu for n r. lifelong passio z about it, year after yea rs who has been selected an elegant buz sta ng risi 10 of one o als Danger is of £1,500, a k a free stand, a bursar y ww w.goldsmithsfair.co.u by the Fair to receive mentoring ed aliz son per a and 000 £3, to up of bullion loan

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Eurosafe UK presents Security Safe and Vault Standards - Part 1

INVEST WISELY IN YOUR SECURITY When buying a burglar resistant safe always ensure that its been independently tested to a European standard EN14450, EN1143-1 or EN1143-2. This ensures that your safe, strongroom or security cabinet has been tested by experts with relevant knowledge, skills and tools.

Production is regularly audited to ensure that the safe you buy will give the same level of security as the model that was tested.

HOW IS THE CASH AND VALUABLES RATING GIVEN? Insurers match a cash value to the European standards as an windicator of insurance coverage. If your insurance cover is important always check with your insurance company before purchasing a safe.

Eurosafe - The voice of the Industry For more information visit: eurosafeuk.org

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GRADE EN14450 EN14450 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1

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Grades 11 to 13 apply to vaults only

22/03/2016 12:26

S A OD LD O G GO S A Well-established German jewellery brand Quinn has made serious inroads into the UK market recently. And, while renowned for its long-standing tradition of premium quality products in 925 sterling silver, now is the perfect time to reveal that gold jewellery is also in the supplier’s quality repertoire… as well as to blow its own trumpet.

Arguably, it is the appointment of new UK and Ireland sales and marketing director, Brightonbased Jan Bostelmann, which has brought Quinn’s gold collection back into the industry limelight. While the designs – slightly more delicate and refined than those of the silver jewellery – demonstrate an Italian influence, the high quality of manufacture is, of course, purely German.

What is also new: all the designs are available in three colour variants – yellow, white or rose gold –and there’s a choice of two standards of fineness: 14 carat as well as 18 carat.

“Silver has become more popular in recent years, because of the price of gold,” Bostelmann explains, “so Quinn’s gold jewellery has never been seriously promoted to the UK market. But the time is now right to bring it more into focus.

And, to be honest, when I joined the company I saw the gold sets and really loved them.”

His other personal remit is to develop Quinn as a premium brand in the UK – a force to be reckoned with – over the coming years. Making his task easier is the fact that there’s plenty of inspirational material to work with – with a heritage of 113 years behind it, Quinn delivers on quality, creative energy and, importantly, 58

adaptability. “One of our strengths is flexibility,” says Bostelmann. “While we have a broad portfolio of different collections and styles to which we add umpteen new ones every season, we are flexible enough to satisfy special requests and deliver custom manufacturing.”

A D V E R T I S I N G

For example, Quinn’s ‘Colors’ collection, comprising 50 models, mostly as multipart sets of rings, pendants and earrings, in various sizes, features an array of faceted or cabochon natural colour stones, from the richly autumnal garnet, onyx and smoky quartz, to the brighter or fresher blue topaz, prasiolite, peridot, amethyst and citrine.

The same potential applies to Quinn’s C.C.C. IPO-protected triple ring system. A fun and contemporary play on traditional Russian wedding rings, the ‘Choose. Combine. Collect’ rings allow the customer to combine their own trio. From a possible choice of 64 enamel-onsilver designs customers can create a look that is as individual as they are – from animal and print and textural-edgy, to downright blingy.

This is one customisable jewellery concept that is a very viable alternative to the bead and charm phenomena: “We’ve broadened the stacking trend and given it the Quinn spin,” quips Bostelmann.

F E AT U R E

the next generation,” says Bostelmann. “It has robust hinges – very important – and the sterling silver is thick enough to engrave without denting or buckling the material. We know from jewellery retailers how good they are.” All joints, clasps and settings are made in Germany. As is the case with other famous pieces in the Classics line, such as Quinn’s distinctive bangles, clip-on bangles and neck rings, that are today still traditionally crafted with press and lathe machines, as they were decades ago at Quinn’s German home base.

Of course not all retailers are likely to carry such a large range of Quinn pieces that they will be able to show their customers the infinite variables of designs, colours and materials. This is why an online B2B shop has been created at www.quinn.de/shop. It allows jewellers to ‘switch off’ prices or give them an average 2.5 per cent While the gold, Colors and C.C.C. collections mark-up, in order to search for items together reflect the company’s variety and reach, while searching with a potential customer.

Quinn’s core expertise has not been side-lined.

“This supportive sales tool has been used very Recognising that jewellery retailers will often have a need for traditional items, the Classic successfully in Germany for several months – everything that is shown can be ordered, even if collection is as strong as ever. it’s not currently in stock” explains Bostelmann.

And it is oval lockets (from 54mm to 12mm) in particular that are proving to be the star “It’s not replacing the sales and marketing attractions. “Quinn delivers a quality, high end department, but is one very positive way that we product that will survive being handed down to are supporting our retail partners.”

For further information email j.bostelmann@quinn.de or call 07403 204008 • www.quinn.de 59

At the BENCH

MATRIX of the TRADE

It’s impossible to ignore the world of 3D printing – they do it in space, F1 cars are designed and built using it… and Dower & Hall employed Gemvision’s Matrix and became joint winner of the Charity Charm competition. Here’s the low down:

DAN DOWER, DOWER & HALL: “My introduction to CAD predates the 3D printing ‘revolution’ – initially multi-dimensional milling was the best way to do rapid prototyping from CAD files. However the milling process had restrictions to the amount of work you could do inside objects, therefore limiting in regards to organic shapes.

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

“When I could see that the process could be used to truly ‘sculpt’ freeform shapes I became fascinated by it as an additional tool. I wasn’t conventionally trained, so I had none of the hang-ups that some traditionally bench-trained jewellers may have had. I taught myself how to carve directly with silver using a pendant motor, so thinking in three dimensions on a screen was relatively easy. I loved the speed with which you can experiment and the happy accidents resulting from playing with the programme’s different tools.

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Dower & Hall Charm

image for press, but Graham Dicks of GVUK generously helped me with this.

It’s as much to do with the software as it is the power of the computer graphics card and I am looking to invest in both.

The important thing about the Charm is its tactility. I could not have created the intricacy of its rose details without CAD. I could have carved it, but not in the 10 days we had to make it! Thankfully it was part of a design process that has resulted in many variations in size and shape, leading to 100 different designs in the Wild Rose range. There is so much more that CAD can do to add fascination to a shape and surface, so I’m looking forward to years of play!”

GRAHAM DICKS, GVUK: “This technology allows the jeweller to print samples in an hour for a client to try on, then produce flawless models and go direct to cast, all from one machine. The latest resin out this year has three times more wax than any other polymer resin, providing awesome surface detail, which is so important to goldsmiths.

“One of the immediate benefits of Matrix was the ease with which you can rescale designs, so building a collection from a single initial theme was suddenly a lot easier, as was making a mirror image for pairs “Even the Micro of earrings. The series of professional precision for some grade printers can designs was a real Ring Samples advantage too – keep up with CAD scaling up and down for different diamond design output, so in most cases businesses sizes is a boon. can invest in these smaller machines and “Initially we employed a full time CAD still build 50+ models a week. With a designer, but now I do all the work myself, running cost of around £1 per print, this as well as bench work when designs new breed of 3D printers can not only require. CAD hasn’t really replaced prove to be a perfect investment but also anything; it’s become an additional tool – speed up the production cycle and reduce and as with any set of tools, you pick the possible waste from expensive re-casting right one for any particular job or design. and in reduced clean up time.

“The obvious advantage of CAD is that “Dan used Matrix to create the Charm I can quickly mock something up, adapt various versions of a design, create near design – its tools allow total freedom of photographic renders to show a customer, design without expensive resources being then finalise the perfect version – all before used up on the bench ahead of production. any precious metal has been consumed. He was able to accurately work out This also helps when developing a new the finished weight and to ensure the collection. ergodynamics worked first time. Matrix “With the Charm, the main issue was was created by a goldsmith making it very in creating a high enough resolution intuitive to use.”

NAJ AWARDS THE MARK OF QUALITY

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IT’S PARTY TIME!

FEEL YOU DESERVE A HEARTY PAT ON THE BACK? NOT SORTED AN OFFICE CHRISTMAS PARTY YET? WHY NOT COMBINE THE TWO AND BOOK TICKETS NOW FOR THE NAJ AWARDS EXTRAVAGANZA ON 1ST DECEMBER?

NAJ AWARDS

If you hurry, we’re still taking nominations for the various categories in these prestigious accolades, which celebrate the outstanding contribution to the jewellery industry, made by the Association’s members. This year we have an additional gong to hand out – the NAJ Kickstarter 2016 Award, sponsored by IJL, for the most outstanding debuting designer. The perfect excuse to crack open more fizz…

The Awards take place during the Benevolent Society Ball – a glamorous, fun-filled evening during which lots of money is raised for the charity. The generous headline sponsor for the NAJ Awards is Birmingham and London-based River Mounts, the trophies have been sponsored by Fattorini, Cooksongold and the Birmingham Assay Office, and Presman Mastermelt is funding the Awards brochure. Indeed the Awards would not be the huge success that they are without the support of all our sponsors, including those of the various categories: WORKSHOP EMPLOYEE OF THE YEAR (SPONSORED BY MAKER MENDS) NEW FOR 2016 This award recognises a workshop employee or apprentice who has demonstrated great determination and tenacity alongside exceptional skills.

The judges are looking for the hidden gems of the industry employed at NAJ member businesses, or an individual freelance craftsman without whom your business would not survive.

Maker Mends – RJC-certified Maker Mends is Europe’s premier jewellery and watch workshop, servicing over 1,000 retail outlets. It provides resources for luxury jewellery and watch brands and carries out volume repairs, alongside working with designers and jewellery buyers to help them manufacture.

DESIGNER OF THE YEAR (SPONSORED BY CLOGAU)

Clogau – UK-based Clogau is an internationally renowned, secondgeneration family business, selling to leading jewellery stores and online.

The 26-year-old brand celebrates its Welsh and British royal roots, which are at the heart of its past, present and future. Every piece of Clogau jewellery contains rare Welsh gold, as used by some members of the British royal family for over 100 years.

NAJ KICKSTART AWARD (SPONSORED BY INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON) NEW FOR 2016 Now in its eighth year, KickStart is a joint initiative between the NAJ and IJL, which gives 10 emerging jewellery designers the opportunity to develop through specialist guidance and training before showcasing their work at the show on a unique stand.

THE MARK OF QUALITY

An award to the designer who is raising the bar of British design creating interesting on-trend designs.

International Jewellery London – IJL is London’s premier trade exhibition for the jewellery and watch industry, attracting over 500 brands across numerous sectors including the Design Gallery, from both the UK and across the world.

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NAJ AWARDS

JEWELLERY & WATCH SUPPLIER (SPONSORED

BY THE COMPANY OF MASTER JEWELLERS) This award will recognise the supplier of jewellery ranges and/ or watch brands that have given consistent service and added value alongside dynamic new product.

Company of Master Jewellers – The CMJ is the UK’s largest membership network of independent jewellery retailers made up of over 160 members with 400 retail outlets. It offers a unique network of like-minded individuals, professionals and experts who can trade resources and information to support and benefit each other.

SERVICE SUPPLIER OF THE YEAR (SPONSORED

BY WARRIOR DOORS & SHIRE LEASING) An award recognising the NAJ member or supplier of services to the NAJ membership who has provided outstanding service during 2016.

Warrior Doors & Shire Leasing – Warrior Doors designs, manufactures, assembles and installs bespoke security doors and screens of the highest quality… without compromising on aesthetic appeal. Thanks to Shire Leasing, Warrior Doors is now able to offer finance packages to smooth the capital outlay of better security.

NEW FOR 2016 – TWO CATEGORIES FOR RETAILERS RETAILER OF THE YEAR 1-5 SHOPS (SPONSORED BY TREASURE HOUSE COMPANY) This award recognises excellent NAJ members running a brick and mortar shop or gallery with between 1-5 branches.

Treasure House Company – The Hatton Garden-based wholesaler has supplied premium jewellery to the trade for over 30 years, offering an ever-expanding range of beautiful, expertly engineered jewellery. The extensive stock includes: diamond jewellery and loose diamonds, mounts, wedding bands, gold and silver jewellery and findings.

RETAILER OF THE YEAR - OVER 5 SHOPS (SPONSORED BY HOCKLEY MINT) This award recognises excellent NAJ members running a brick and mortar shop or gallery with more than five branches.

Hockley Mint – Birmingham Jewellery Quarter-based Hockley Mint has built a business based on service. With its ‘in house’ resource of a vast array of production techniques, it always strives to accommodate a customer’s requirements creating one-off designs from CAD or sketch, to large production orders. Jewellery designer Sarah Jordan has joined the team as a creative consultant.

E-TAILER OF THE YEAR (SPONSORED BY BRANSOM)

THE BENEVOLENT SOCIETY…

THE MARK OF QUALITY

HELPING THOSE IN NEED The British Jewellery, Giftware and Finishing Federation Benevolent Society financially assists individuals who have worked within the giftware, jewellery, surface engineering, travel goods and fashion accessories industries. So far in 2016 about 100 individuals have been helped.

The Benevolent Society helps those in need in a number of ways: • By giving regular grants • Providing essential items such as cookers, fridge freezers, bed linen and television licence fees • In some cases interest free loans are granted.

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This award recognises NAJ members running an ecommerce or multi-channel business. Companies trading online, by direct mail, home shopping or as a TV channel are eligible to enter this category.

Bransom - A leading supplier of computer systems to independent retail jewellers and the pawnbroking industry, Bransom provides a comprehensive range of software, together with a first class training and support service. It enjoys close relationships and projects with many leading industry partners.

NOMINATIONS UNTIL 16TH SEPTEMBER Nominations can be made online: www.naj.co.uk/en/naj-awards-2016 or click through on the front page banner to the form before 12 noon 16th September. Following the drawing up of a shortlist by a judging panel, shortlisted finalists will be posted. Members can vote across all categories and, for the Etailer and Designer category, consumer voting will also be registered.

On line nominations by 31st October On line voting will take place between 22nd September – 31st October at naj.co.uk.

The winners are announced at the awards ceremony on December 1st.

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7/5/16 3:55 PM

Here’s the lowdown

HALLMARKING

Industry NEWS THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

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It’s a key aspect of the working life of jewellery suppliers and retailers alike – yet hallmarking is seen by many as a complicated and confusingly grey area. Give thanks then to the Assay Offices of Great Britain who have issued updated, practical guidance notes on the UK Hallmarking Act 1973.

The new guidance compiled on behalf of the four UK Assay Offices by the Edinburgh Assay Office, includes a dedicated section on how precious metals should be described, which is aimed as a guide for traditional and online jewellery retailers and non-jewellery specific retailers selling jewellery.

Edinburgh Assay Office CEO and Assay Master, Scott Walter, said: “There have been a number of significant changes to the Act since the last guidance was published and an update was necessary. It has also become necessary to reiterate that online retailers have an equal and unequivocal obligation to comply with the Act in the same way brick and mortar retailers always have. The Assay Offices and the BHC remain committed to ensuring UK consumers can expect the same high levels of professionalism and clarity of descriptions across the whole industry including all emerging jewellery retail models.”

We have highlighted here are some of the most commonly queried points of the Hallmarking Act of 1973, covered in the comprehensive, downloadable document.

Hallmark minimum

The Assay Office’s Marks

• Describe an un-hallmarked article as being wholly or partly made of silver, palladium, gold or platinum • Supply or offer to supply un-hallmarked articles to which such a description is applied What needs to be hallmarked?

Any article described as being wholly or partly made of gold, silver, platinum or palladium that is not covered under exempt articles. Articles below a certain weight are exempt from hallmarking.

The exemption weight is based on the weight of the precious metal in the article, excluding, for example, diamonds, stones etc. Except in the case of articles consisting of precious metal and base metal, in which case the exemption weight is based on the total metal weight:

Silver – 7.78 Grams Palladium – 1.0 Gram Gold – 1.0 Gram Platinum – 0.5 Gram

Any pre-1950 item may now be described and sold as precious metal without a hallmark, if the seller can prove that it is of minimum fineness and was manufactured before 1950.

A hallmark is made up of three compulsory symbols:

1. The sponsor’s or maker’s mark In the UK this mark consists of at least two letters within a surround. No two marks are the same.

2. Metal and fineness (purity) mark Indicates the precious metal content of the article and that it is not less than the fineness of the article indicated. The fineness is indicated by a millesimal number (parts per thousand) and the metal type by the shape of the surround.

3. Assay Office mark Indicates the particular Assay Office at which the article was tested and marked: London, Edinburgh, Birmingham or Sheffield.

Mixed metals Articles consisting of more than one precious metal can be hallmarked, subject to the following conditions: • In the opinion of the Assay Office, an ordinary person could determine which part is which precious metal • Each precious metal component must be at least the minimum legal fineness for that metal • The full hallmark struck will be that of the least precious metal, in order, silver, palladium, gold and platinum

Hallmarking gold plated silver Gold plated silver articles are hallmarked as silver and are not covered by the ‘mixed metals’ amendment to the hallmarking act (2007). Other than the silver hallmark, or a 925 stamp on underweight articles, no other standalone gold fineness marks are permitted on gold plated silver articles, because they are potentially confusing and misleading to consumers.

Gold plated base metals items cannot be hallmarked, this includes ‘bonded gold’ on base metal, ‘rolled gold’ on base metal and ‘plated gold’ on base metal.

Industry NEWS

• The minor (fineness) mark will be stamped on the ‘higher’ precious metals

Describing precious metals Gold plated base metal • The terms ‘bonded gold’, ‘rolled gold’ and ‘gold plated’ are allowed to refer to either gold plated silver articles or gold plated base metal articles • For ‘bonded gold’, the bonded gold layer must be of fineness of at least 375 parts per thousand and of a fineness recognised in the UK. Bonded gold of 10k can only be described as 9ct in the UK Gold plated silver • When the word ‘gold’ or a specific gold fineness description is used to describe a gold plated silver article, it must be described as silver and the word ‘gold’ must be directly followed by ‘plated’ • Other terms like ‘vermeil’ may be used in addition, but the phrase ‘gold plated’ and the word ‘silver’ must appear within the description e.g.. ‘18ct gold plated vermeil silver ring’ • The term ‘silver gilt’ may be used to describe a gold plated silver article, providing a gold fineness is not applied as part of the description • The gold plated layer must be of a fineness of at least 375 parts per thousand and should not exceed 2 microns in thickness Using the words ‘silver’, ‘palladium’, ‘gold’ and ‘platinum’ to describe base metal • If an article contains no precious metals or is below the minimum fineness and the words ‘gold’, ‘platinum’, ‘palladium’ and ‘silver’ are used as an adjective to describe colour then the description must make this clear.

• By way of an example, if a base-metal watch, containing no gold is described as a ‘gold watch’ in order to describe its colour, this would constitute an offence under schedule 1 of the Hallmarking Act. • Suggested examples of how the watch should be described include ‘yellow metal watch’, ‘gold tone watch’, ‘gold coloured watch’, which are not misleading to the consumer. These descriptions are offered by way of examples only and are not an exhaustive list.

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Why are precious metal articles hallmarked?

Silver, palladium, gold and platinum are rarely used in their purest form but instead are normally alloyed with lesser metals in order to achieve a desired strength, durability, colour etc.

It is not possible to detect by sight or touch the gold, silver, platinum or palladium content of an item. It is therefore a legal requirement to hallmark all articles consisting of silver, palladium, gold or platinum (subject to certain exemptions) if they are to be described as such.

It is an offence for any person in the course of trade or business to:

To access the full version of these guidance notes from the Assay Offices of Great Britain, visit: www.edinburghassayoff ice.co.uk /download/ hallmarking-guide.pdf 67

Show REPORT THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

LONDON CALLING

Sometimes you have to take yourself off the beaten track in order to chance upon something new or different. Belinda Morris looked in on Pure London and Scoop and the City, for creative inspiration.

Both of these shows in the capital take place in the height of the summer, well ahead of the main buying season, and both are primarily trade exhibitions for the wider fashion industry.

However, at Scoop in particular (staged at the Thames-side Old Billingsgate venue), the number of jewellery brands and designers appeared to be even greater this year.

SCOOP And in line with the mix of high fashion and commercial ranges of clothing showcased, the jewellery at Scoop ran the gamut from sweet/pretty/delicate and fine, to bold, geometric and different‌ but without stepping into the less inspiring

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territories of dull/samey or downright OTT! There was also a good mix of interesting, new-to-me names amid the familiar ones, to make the visit worthwhile.

An example of the former is fashion-designer-turnedjeweller Chupi Sweetman-Pell, who established her jewellery design and manufacturing business in Ireland two years ago.

She began by casting found items like swan feathers, twigs and acorns and found there was a market for the pieces. Today she employs 13 people. The new Chupi collection includes necklaces incorporating a birthstone, suspended on a gold chain with a leaf taken from a rose bush cast in sterling silver and plated in a thick layer of 18ct gold.

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Show REPORT

Chupi

Bjorg Jewellery

Intua

GfG

Maya Magal Ziio

By Nina

Cabinet

Açai Bijoux

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Wazp

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A lifelong affinity with collecting, a childhood spent in the West Indies and family stories of exploration have informed the gold and silver, fine and costume jewellery Gemma Critchley creates for her British-made Cabinet brand. Meanwhile NAJ member Mirabelle (also made in the UK) was introducing an extended collection of re-cast vintage charms (such as Scottie dogs), along with a large range of silver, gemstone and crystalset and pearl and chain pieces.

Providing a counterbalance to the dainty, nature-inspired and/or very feminine collections, were others with a stronger, more architectural or geometric aesthetic. I liked By Boe’s range of gold filled or oxidated silver, clean-lined, fashionfilled pieces; Bjorg Jewellery’s dramatically different, very contemporary, fine and semi-precious pieces and GfG’s gemset 18ct gold plated vermeil on sterling silver rings, bangles, earrings and necklaces using waves and parallel bars for a geometric look.

I was also particularly pleased to spot a favourite Italian brand – Ziio – at the show. The design house, which specialises in extravagant (but very wearable) gem-encrusted jewellery, has recently appointed a UK agent and is embarking on “a bigger UK push”. Similarly, new Turkish brand Intua is opening a London HQ this autumn, to showcase its 14ct gold collection inspired by the ancient Hittite civilization.

PURE LONDON In the main, the jewellery offering at this more commercial fashion exhibition is fashion rather than fine, but a stroll around the upper floor at Olympia resulted in a couple of gems. Brazi, for instance, is a young, contemporary jewellery business from Poland, with a passion for gemmology, unusual gems in interesting settings… and absolutely no amber! Also highlighting coloured stones was By Nina’s collection of

handmade jewellery (and clothing) which supports Indian artisan communities.

Açai Bijoux’s stand lured visitors with a luxuriant handcrafted, organic and original collection of jewellery and accessories created from the golden, straw-like stem of a plant native to Brazil. The straw is woven in Jalapao using a variety of traditional techniques and made into gleaming pieces designed in France.

Arguably the most fascinating booth at Pure showcased the work of a global network of designers and 3D printers under the Wazp umbrella. The Irish company aims to make designer products “accessible to all” with a durable, lightweight collection of unique, contemporary pieces made in nylon – so strong they can go in the dishwasher apparently! Using 3D printing technology the designs for the pieces (rings, bangles, chains etc) are kept in digital format – so no need for keeping stock. Once an item is ordered it goes into production.

As far from diamonds as it’s possible to get, but we’re looking at the future!

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EDUCATION

Tutored by Eric Emms, the Assessing Mounted Diamonds course – that took place last month – has been declared by attendees as a complete success.

DIAMOND COURSE TRIUMPH – new dates

ASSESSING MOUNTED DIAMOND COURSE Date: 30th Jan – 3rd Feb, Venue: Gem-A, 21 Ely Place, London, EC1N 6TD Daily timings: 10:00 – 16:30

So well-received was the practical five-day Assessing Mounted Diamonds course, that dates have been set for the next: 30th January – 3rd February, 2017 and several potential students have expressed strong interest in booking a place.

The completely new course forms part of the National Association of Jewellers’ commitment to delivering the best possible educational programme for members of the NAJ and the Institute of Registered Valuers (IRV). It has been specifically structured by Emms, with jewellery valuers only in mind.

Speaking about the course, IRV chairman Frank Wood said: “This is a course which demonstrates assessing the quality of mounted goods (something that no other course covers and is essential for valuers and also pawnbrokers, buying stones over the counter), but also advanced diamond grading, plotting on inclusions etc. Eric Emms is an icon of the diamond-grading world who has come out of retirement and is doing this just for us. It’s a fantastic opportunity to experience the uniqueness and intrigue of diamonds, guided by a master diamond tutor.”

One enthusiastic attendee, Barry Sullivan FIRV, was full of praise: “The course was a full-on five days working in laboratory conditions, using Gem-A teaching facilities and working with microscopes. The 11 participants came from far and wide and had a mixture of qualifications and knowledge.

“Eric’s easy teaching manner was very quickly apparent, the course content was very professional as you would expect from one of world’s best teachers and our own country’s very best. The course notes and research sites were second to none and this was all based on the GIA grading system – Eric was the GIA laboratory representative gemmologist in the UK when GIA had a lab here.

“The course is both great for valuers and sales staff alike, it enables all students to be able to explain the different perspectives of diamond reports, that are expressed in percentages of diamond total volume, where their report shows the diamond’s diagram and also the clarity grading plotting charts. Students handle synthetics, lasered and glassfilled examples and this is a must for even the very good.

“The course would be best attended by those students that are used to handling mounted diamond jewellery, including pawnbrokers, manufacturers and designers. No registered valuer should miss the opportunity to attend such a well put together course, that leaves the participants with a different perspective of assessing mounted diamonds.”

There are 12 places on the course, so we recommend immediate action if you’re interested. And there’s discount for members and non-members who book before 19th September. Contact Lyn Oliver: 023 9234 5152 or email education@naj.co.uk

PRICE

THE MARK OF HIGH QUALITY EDUCATION AND TRAINING

Member of NAJ/IRV £1,095 Non-Members £1,195 Early Bird Rate Member of NAJ/IRV £950.00 Book before Non-Members £1,095 (All prices + VAT.)

Gemex

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FORGET EVERYTHING YOU THOUGHT YOU KNEW....

BEAUTY

TREATMENTS

FOR

JEWELLERY

LEARN MORE AT IJL 2016 SEE US ON STAND B91 PROTECTING THE CONSUMER AND SERVICING THE TRADE WITH INDEPENDENCE AND INTEGRITY SINCE 1773

Assay Office Birmingham, 1 Moreton Street, Birmingham B1 3AX T 0121 236 6951 theassayoffice.co.uk #morethanhallmarking

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8/2/2016 1:52:00 PM

Member SPOTLIGHT THE MARK OF PROFESSIONALISM

Take me to the River

Some might say that River Mounts, the headline sponsor for the NAJ Awards in December, has been hiding its light. We say it’s time to shine… so we spoke to owners Elizabeth & Markus Chui.

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When was River Mounts established?

We founded the company in 2005 as XMC International. The name changed to River Mounts in 2012 as part of a customer focus and target exercise, making it clearer to new and existing customers who we are and what we do: supply mounts.

We started on the road, purchasing goods globally, and selling to UK retailers. As the business became more established, offices were opened in the Birmingham Jewellery Quarter to support the field agents and sales. Then trade counters were opened, the first in Hatton Garden – where it has served local and international clients for five years – then, last winter, in Birmingham.

Who designs your jewellery? Is it made-to-order or bought from existing collections?

Our jewellery is designed by a team, with collaborative work in the UK. We have the facilities to produce bespoke designs including CAD/CAM, model making, prototyping and production of finished goods. However, many of our customers buy from our extensive existing collections – a host of plain and semi-set mounts and a huge variety of matching and standalone diamond wedding bands and eternity rings.

A lot of time and resources go into meeting our clients’ needs, by keeping up with trends and new design demands. We look at new ways of setting diamonds securely in the metal, new decoration techniques and new materials, enabling us to constantly offer new models.

Do retailers sell your jewellery under their own name or the River Mounts brand?

We don’t impose any restrictions on our clients regarding branding; after all, we are proud that they have so much faith in our product they’re happy to sell it under their name. We even have the option for clients to have their own hallmarking when requested.

Our market mix is broad – a host of multiples, including some of the biggest names, and also many independents. Prices are competitive to all our customers and we’re always aiming to help them sell. All our jewellery is made in the Far East, where

we have multiple production sites and a huge team of employees capable of scaling production for large multiples and also working to creating bespoke, oneoff masterpieces.

What materials do you use?

We make all our products in platinum, 18ct rose, yellow and white gold and we also use twotone metals. In addition to diamond set mounts, we also set items with sapphires, emeralds and rubies, however we can source and set other materials on a made-to-order basis. Our customers trust us to source and produce products ethically and sustainably. Raw materials are sourced globally and we produce our own blends of alloy for platinum and golds in order to have greater control of their quality and purity.

River Mounts has won a Platinum Guild design award. How important was that to you?

It was a great achievement and we’re incredibly proud of the team for achieving this personal goal. However as a business we don’t enter many awards; we pride ourselves on our reputation and the honest and frank feedback we receive from our clients and partners. This recognition means much more to us than any medal or trophy ever could.

Of course, we won’t stop our teams from getting involved in awards and as a business of equal opportunities and prompt promotion, we push our staff to achieve their own goals.

What prompted you to sponsor the NAJ Awards – what message would you like to get across to the industry?

The NAJ has goals and visions which align well with our own – to improve and revolutionise the face of the jewellery industry. For us the message is as clear today as it was when we first started: always think of the customer first.

We’re committed to helping retailers sell and take this commitment very seriously with River Mounts’ customer service system ‘Just Ask’. It’s exactly as it sounds… need a suggestion for a specific stone you have? Just Ask! Want to add diamonds or alternate stones in the shoulders? Just Ask!

Member SPOTLIGHT THE MARK OF PROFESSIONALISM

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APPOINTMENT This year Scotland’s luxury jewellery house and holder of the Royal Warrant, Hamilton & Inches, turns 150. CEO Stephen Paterson describes the new ad campaign, plans for celebrating the milestone anniversary and the store’s Royal connections.

Member SPOTLIGHT

At the moment the pieces are locked away in our vaults where no one can see them, apart from an exclusive private preview. The official launch will be in November at our showroom event.

What other customer events are taking place in 2016?

In September we’ll be hosting an evening in the National Museum of Scotland’s Grand Gallery. The Museum also marks its 150th anniversary this year so it’s a marvellous collaboration for Hamilton & Inches. The event will celebrate our unique Scottish partnership with Patek Philippe. We’re also hosting an evening with Rolex in The Balmoral Hotel, an institution with which we share a rich history specific to timekeeping. In 1902 we created and installed the worldrenowned Balmoral clock, which famously runs three minutes fast to aid travellers to Waverley Station to get their trains on time.

The final, main, 150th anniversary event will be held in our showroom and will celebrate our Signature Suite. This evening will be exclusively about our history and prestige – a demonstration of past designs and creations alongside the Signature Suite, which will be the star attraction.

How regularly does Hamilton & Inches create something for Her Majesty? Is it generally a special bespoke piece?

We’ve held a Royal Warrant for services to the Royal Family for over 120 years. We have a yearly private commission for Her Majesty The Queen, which is created by our silversmith David Ramsay; master engraver Ruaridh Malcolmson and master polisher Colin Golder. As with all of our clients, our relationship with the Royal Family remains private, however we have created several special pieces, which are either for, or endorsed by, the Royal Household, throughout the company’s history.

Additionally, Her Majesty The Queen is a patron of QEST – a charity which aids scholars and craftsmen – which supports our apprentice silversmith Paul Kirkos. We were delighted to receive a visit from Her Majesty The Queen and His Royal Highness The Duke of Edinburgh in July to celebrate our 150 years. It was an honour to create special bespoke silver gifts for them both.

You joined the company when you were 18.

What made you decide to go into the jewellery industry?

I was really into art and design in school, and on the advice of my parents, who had visited Hamilton & Inches, wrote to Mr Inches to see if I could apply for an apprenticeship in the workshops. Unfortunately, no positions were available, but he asked if I would be interested in the retail side of the business. I trained under Mr Inches’ watchful eye and studied for my diploma in Jewellery Retail and subsequently Jewellery Retail Management. I became chief executive in 2015 having previously held the post of managing director.

How has the store changed in your time?

The showroom still carries the same original detail that would have been present back when it was a family home. It has been described by Historic Scotland as “one of the finest examples of an existing 19th century shop interior”, with original Corinthian pillars and cornicing and a rare Adam fireplace. It was once decorated in quite austere colours, red carpet and gold details. In the 1990s there was a renovation, which created the more neutral, warm atmosphere, which still exists today. The showroom has a homely feel – the perfect setting for our silverware. In 2013 the final stages of our Rolex Room were completed, increasing the retail space significantly and adding a more contemporary area.

When I started, the product was very traditional and primarily jewellery and silver. Our offering has changed enormously over the years – our distinctive workshop is now coming up with beautiful designs that are as fitting in modern environments as classical or traditional. Throughout all of our departments we’re seeing more and more contemporary and innovative designs, from our own pieces to those of our world-class brand partners.

THE MARK OF PROFESSIONALISM

Tell us about the Hamilton & Inches ‘family’ in your new campaign?

On approaching our anniversary year, the one thing which felt consistent was the people involved in building Hamilton & Inches and sustaining it over those 150 years.

It is a privilege to be at the helm of a business which has such a long and colourful history. By creating the campaign around the ‘Hamilton & Inches Family’ we are celebrating our founders and their successors, our customers, friends, partners and staff.

There’s been a significant shift in our demographic over the years – we have had to reach out to a much wider clientele. Overseas visitors now have a huge impact in the British luxury market, so it’s wonderful to be in a city like Edinburgh, which has enormous appeal for tourists. Our audience has evolved to include all ages and backgrounds.

On a personal level, over the years I have met many wonderful people who have not only become friends of Hamilton & Inches, but ambassadors too. I often find myself chatting to their children about their engagement rings or gifts for partners, as the affection for our work is passed down through the generations.

Describe the new campaign.

It is a confident leap forward for the brand. There were three key themes to our success and heritage, which we wanted to embrace and reflect: Generations – over the years with our clients, we have celebrated engagements, weddings and those precious moments of welcoming the next generation into the world, then see those same children come back to us to start their own life journey. It is an enormous privilege to be part of a family’s history in such a way.

Our iconic showroom – in 1966 Hamilton & Inches launched a book called ‘The First Hundred Years’. In it is a quote: “In 87 [George Street], Hamilton & Inches found the most fitting setting. A family business in so many ways, it is appropriate that it should be housed in a ‘home’.” Our Georgian showroom was an Edinburgh residence before it was adapted into a retail environment in 1835. We consider it to be the heart of the company, and it has been our home for almost 65 years.

The product – obviously our campaign had to promote our product and we wanted to do so in the form of a celebration.

Almost every day, Hamilton & Inches pieces are purchased in recognition of a celebration, so this is how we chose to present them – with a sense of joy, warmth, laughter and ultimately adorning a loving family. This is the first time we have created a campaign of this scale, and we have used wonderful UK talent to bring the concept to life. We couldn’t be more delighted with it.

What message do you want to convey to customers?

The concept of the ‘Hamilton & Inches Family’ came entirely from in-house, in particular from our marketing team and our head of jewellery, Debbie McKernan. We have all had a strong desire to create a campaign like this for some time and when would be more appropriate than our 150th anniversary? This reflects a real aspiration in the team to ensure that we’re looking forward to the next 150 years.

Our campaign photographer was the fashion, lifestyle and travel photographer Oliver Pilcher, whom we have worked alongside for many years. The campaign will champion the message that we are a contemporary, distinctive company with aspirational products, which can be enjoyed by generations.

Describe the new ‘anniversary suite’.

The inspiration for our anniversary suite, Parure, comes from our Signature collection, which was launched in 2013. The creative endeavour of Debbie McKernan, it will comprise of a diamond and white gold collar, earrings and cuff. The style is classic glamour with a modern edge – a wearable, stunning set of jewellery. Crafted in 18ct white gold, we have used 660 round brilliant cut diamonds (total weight 40.14ct) and all items are finished with the hand engraved Hamilton & Inches signature.

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IRV PROFILE

The VALUE

of CHANGE

The NAJ’s Institute of Registered Valuers is delighted to announce a new Affiliate category of membership for the IRV. Chairman Frank Wood explains.

THE MARK OF PROFESSIONAL VALUATION

The launch of this new category forms part of the far-reaching business plan that has been drawn up by the IRV Committee to protect the Institute as we progress into the future, and has been discussed over several months to achieve the right balance. The reputation and credibility of the organisation must be protected – members collect Continuing Professional Development points (CPD) to assure this, and are ‘monitored’ approximately every five years. Sample valuations are sent to the Institute for assessment to ensure high standards are being maintained. Not intended as a draconian method of castigation, it aims to help each valuer achieve their potential and maintain such high standards that increasing numbers of forward-thinking insurers are insisting on only IRV valuations for their clients.

It’s vital that the Institute demonstrates the benefits of membership to ‘younger’ members of the jewellery industry; showing its members’ expertise and the real value of a career as a quality valuer within the IRV. This starts with nurturing those students who may not be quite ready, or experienced enough, to join as full members, offering guidance and encouragement, and highlighting the benefits (financial reward, credibility, kudos) that becoming a Member of the Institute of Registered Valuers (MIRV) brings with it.

And so a new Affiliate category has been launched to facilitate this. There will be many benefits of membership – available on request – including education, a digital forum, access to The Jeweller online, support and help to achieve aspirations of joining the industry’s valuation institute for excellence – the IRV. Another area that has been under consideration is the ‘retired’ sector. The IRV has been an ‘active valuers only’ Institute. Sadly many valuers, upon retirement, found they were now ineligible to belong to an organisation that they may have spent more than 20 years being members of. This seemed unjust, therefore it has been agreed that, providing the valuer is up-to-date with CPD and had been successfully monitored at the time of retirement, they could be part of this great Institute.

For those industry ‘specialists’ who value watches and clocks, perhaps, rather than jewellery, there is a new category, which will allow them to be part of the Institute. This is currently a non-valuing membership, however, subject to normal CPD and

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monitoring, it will be incorporated into full membership in the near future.

To summarise, the new categories are: • Affiliate membership • Student section Open to all students studying any jewellery related courses.

Students of NAJ courses will have free membership; other students will be charged a nominal fee of £50.00 + VAT • Retired section Applies to all valuers who have retired from valuing while being a full member, with CPD and monitoring up-to-date and successful at the time of retirement • Honorary section ‘Invitation only’ and initially decided on by the Committee, it will apply to specialists in certain areas. It will be non-valuing, although there are plans to introduce a ‘specialists’ section within the full membership at a future date. This will be subject to monitoring and CPD – in line with full members – and membership will be limited to their specialism.

All these categories are STRICTLY NON-VALUING. We also recognise the need to encourage more retailers to take in valuations, outsourcing them to IRV members/ fellows. As retailers, many of us happily accept and outsource watch, clock and jewellery repairs – why should valuations be different? Independent valuers are insured to guard against any disputes, thus protecting the retailer (more so than any other provided service). Moreover, the valuer’s competency is maintained, and confirmed, by the Institute.

The income from the valuation fee is just the beginning; there is a real opportunity to engage with potential clients, advise on repairs, renovations and additional jewellery while the valuation is accepted. As the IRV has progressed there are more and more insurers, impressed by the quality of the service provided by the Institute’s members/fellows, who insist that their clients obtain valuations from them. We will continue to promote the Institute to other insurers to extend this further.

Industry NEWS

‘ENAMOURED’ The Goldsmiths’ Centre in Clerkenwell, London is to play host to an exhibition staged by the British Society of Enamellers (BSoE). ‘Enamoured’ (11th October – 8th November, 2016) the exhibition will celebrate the work of leading and up-and-coming enamellers.

In displaying the very best of contemporary enamelling, the exhibition showcases this complex and ancient art form in all its multiple guises. The majority of the works featured in the exhibition are

by BSoE members, including some of its experienced, distinguished members such as Jane Short, Ruth Ball, Tamar de Vries Winter, Joan Mackarell, Sheila Macdonald and Jenny Edge.

Endre Hevezi, at 93 is one of the oldest of the group, while the new generation of recent enamel graduates is also represented by the likes of Mark Newman, Natasha Burns and Rebecca Blakeway, all of whom are still in their 20s.

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Dating as far back as the 16th century BC, enamelling is a form of mysterious alchemy. An exacting and challenging craft, requiring great artistry and patience, it involves the application of powdered coloured glass or ‘frit’ onto a metal surface. While in the very high temperature furnace, the ‘frit’ fuses to the metal and becomes a hard, smooth and durable surface often of an intense colour.

Transparent, opaque or translucent, a highly skilled enameller can achieve a rich and infinite palette of colours.

All the different enamelling techniques and usages are vividly revealed and explained through the wide variety of works, preparatory pieces and drawings on display in the exhibition.

Sophie Warringham

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NEW DIAMOND GRADING SERVICE FOR NAJ MEMBERS The International Institute of Diamond Grading & Research (IIDGR), part of the De Beers Group of Companies, has announced the agreement of a partnership with the NAJ for its diamond grading service in the UK. NAJ members will benefit from preferential terms when they submit diamonds to the IIDGR’s UK lab for diamond grading.

IIDGR offers diamond grading reports, and the more concise Diamond Identification Report, from its UK laboratory. Reports are now offered with the enhanced security option of table marking of the grading number, a service unique to IIDGR. The grading standards and systems developed are underpinned by technology developed by De Beers.

Exclusive machines allow digital benchmarking to enhance human skills and established diamond master sets.

Every diamond graded will have passed patented tests for synthetics, simulants and treatments.

There’s GOLD in them thar HILLS… A Scottish mine has produced gold for the first time, following the launch of an ore-processing trial. Mining firm Scotgold Resources is crushing 2,400 tonnes of ore which has been stockpiled at Cononish near Tyndrum in central Scotland.

It is targeting ‘first pour’ production of between 400 and 600 ounces of gold during the initial six-month trial. About 100 ounces (almost 3kg) of that will be sent to jewellers to test the market for Scottish gold. Australia-based Scotgold is hopeful that the gold’s rarity may command a premium price.

IJL STOP PRESS… MUST CHECK-OUT Hatton Garden-based Sunshine Exim, which specialises in fine jewellery and diamonds will be introducing a vintagestyle collection of custom-made, handmade mounts suitable for any specific gemstone or diamond. And while these can be delivered within two weeks, the company also offers stock items which can be sent on appro for next day delivery within the UK. While at IJL the team will also be showing visitors a new feature on its website, which will allow high quality images to be downloaded for sharing on social media such as Facebook and Twitter. (Stand: C68) If you’re in the market for wedding blanks, semi-finished products or finished gold and silver jewellery, why not drop by Bedra Metals’ stand (A91), where you can also see the company’s showcase unit. Bedra Metals a sister company of Bedra GmbH, was established in Dublin in November 2010.

It began primarily as a scrap recycling facility however over the past six years has expanded its services to now include other items. These high quality German products at excellent prices coupled with a personalised customer service continue to guarantee Bedra success in both the Irish and German jewellery industry, and will be instrumental as they expand their business and launch into the British market.

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Industry PROFILE

The

LAST WORD As the businesses of London’s historic jewellery quarter, Hatton Garden, have voted overwhelmingly in favour of establishing a Business Improvement District, we give this issue’s Last Word to Gary Williams, the BID’s chairman, past deputy chairman of the NAJ and director of Presman Mastermelt.

Who has been the biggest influence on your life?

What’s your guiltiest pleasure?

Eddie Brown, founder of Brown & Newirth. He took me into his business when I was young and treated me like part of his family. I had the pleasure of working with him for 30 years and in that time he taught me many things about business and how to conduct oneself through life, helping others wherever possible. He encouraged me to try things and supported me when they went wrong. If he’s looking down, I hope he approves of the person I became.

Apple strudel and ice cream, especially from the corner café by the tram crossing in Basle.

What led you to follow a career in the jewellery industry?

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

I have to thank my brother-in-law who, when I was at school, was a Hatton Garden diamond setter and always seemed to be doing well. He arranged a job interview for me and the rest, as they say, is history.

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What three words describe you best... in your view AND according to others?

ME: Enthusiastic, Positive and Helpful; OTHERS (apparently): Annoying, Confident and Fun. Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over?

I should have learned to say ‘no’. Things might have been different, but I am not sure it would have been as much fun.

What prompted you to get involved in the Hatton Garden BID and having got the green light, what’s next?

I’ve been associated with Hatton Garden all my working life and saw that with Crossrail opening at Farringdon, big changes were coming, which would hugely impact on the jewellery trade. I wanted to make sure that we had a strong voice and the best way of doing that was to take on the chairmanship of the BID proposal, which has now received approval. Hatton Garden is a Business Improvement District with an estimated budget of £2.5m. The next stage is to work on the various ‘Safer’, ‘Cleaner’ and ‘Area Promotional’ projects, which local businesses have asked for. My personal priority will remain the safeguarding and support of the area’s jewellery workshops, which are struggling with rising rents and an influx of other more affluent businesses.

Tell us something not many people know about you...

I was a part time children’s entertainer from the age of 11 until about 40. It began with a pack of cards and some modelling balloons from the magic shop in Hatton Garden and after nearly 2,000 parties and contemplating the manslaughter of a seven-year old boy at a school disco I was DJing at, I decided to give it up.

Of what, career-wise, are you most proud?

Being instrumental in unifying the BJA and N.A.G. There were lots of hurdles to overcome and many said it couldn’t be done, but we got there in the end. I’m looking forward to the NAJ delivering unparalleled support to ALL sectors of the jewellery trade, as well as promoting the highest standards of its enlarged membership, directly to the consumer. It’s time to put quality and aspirational jewellery back on the consumers’ agenda. I believe the many talented and committed people across the industry, who are now working with the talented and committed professionals of the NAJ, will make this happen.

If you could change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be?

I’d ban 9 carat gold jewellery. I remember reading that 9ct was a wartime austerity measure, but as the war ended in 1945, isn’t it time we started to appreciate and cherish our jewellery and move away from the cheapest, mass produced stuff we laughingly label as gold?

If not this one, what might your alternative career have been?

I would like to have been a professional magician, travelling the world and leaving people amazed by making the impossible, possible.

Do you Tweet?

Of course not… dinosaurs don’t tweet!

What keeps you awake at night?

I can sleep standing up and live by the old adage ‘If you worry, you die and if you don’t worry, you die, so why worry?’ I just deal with everything as it comes and always sleep soundly.

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