Freedom In Moderation
POP Magazine POP magazine actively celebrates the woman of the 21st Century and especially values individuality. It is rebellious in its ethics - opting to cover new, pioneering brands and faces in its editorials and front covers and truly delve in deep to personality, rather than functionality. The imagery, therefore, follows suit and is innovative for the magazine’s relatively young following. Its photography is engaging and entices the reader in with questions and provocations. The magazine covers real life troubles and is influenced by what is going on in the world. Its imagery takes on a deeper, more significant meaning, whether that be political, social or environmental, which in turn creates a more intimate relationship between the model and reader. The editorials usually consist of a blend between location and studio shoots to relay this soft attachment between the reader, the subject and the world. The fashion is very usually high-end, featuring brands such as Dior, Stella McCartney, Burberry, Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent. Correspondingly, beauty and hair styling is usually eccentric and expressive, either jarring with or complimenting the model’s natural feminity and beauty.
Mood & Theme
The theme of the SS19 Editorial Shoot for POP will be centred around fashion as a means of expression for women. It will highlight to the magazine’s educated reader that, although years have passed, women’s communicative force remains a global issue, regardless of geographic and economic factors. This year’s International Women’s Day yet again enforced the need for “#BalanceisBetter”, with the World Economic Forum commenting it could still be another century before the global equality gap between genders disapears entirely. This shoot takes much inspiration from two centuries ago, and how much has changed in the meantime. ‘The Duchess’ (2008 Movie) centres around the life of Georgiana Cavendish, and how she manipulated what little freedom she had. Her fashion style gained her great reputation and allowed her to communicate her opinions and personal tastes in an era where women were denied a voice. The shoot will therefore be set in the studio and on the grounds of a historical stately home, in order to reflect the Baroque theme and reference. I have taken inspiration from the likes of Tim Walker and Georges Antoni who manage to convey an understated mood of melancholy and isolation juxtaposed with female strength and resilience. The images can be quite haunting, are heavily narrative, and sometimes sarcastic, suiting the style of the magazine. Muted colours also give their photography a vintage-feel, which also fits with POP’s post-productive approach.
Freedom In Moderation
It seems the media has really got on board with the feminist movement in recent years. Coverage now sees at least one article regarding feminism, gender equality and women in the workplace every hour. Perhaps this also alludes to the growing issues women have to face in the day-today, however the headlines mainly centre around giving women a voice; whether they’re campaigning from their bedrooms or from the streets. Artists such as Ariana Grande, Little Mix and Jess Glynne have recently been applauded for their salute to the feminist movement and empowering of young women. The SS19 shows really allude to this empowerment; florals are no longer used to portray female passivity and weakness, but are bold, clashed together and adorned with leather and metal trimmings to make a rebellious impact. Clean-cut lines and suits in every colour under the sun have acted as a reminder that women are not just in control at home, but at work too, despite the Gender Pay Gap crisis.
This is what will provide the underlying irony of the shoot; floral pattern, lace, frills, maxi skirts and ribbons will not only elongate and exaggerate the curves of the female figure, but will also act as a loud and noisy message of revolution: Feminity is not Weakness. The exquisite high-fashion pieces worn by Keira Knightley in The Duchess offer much inspiration for this - in the film they cement the character’s disregard of her societal obligations. The title of the shoot, ‘Freedom In Moderation’ is inspired by a quote from the film. It highlights the difference in opinion between the Duchess and her husband, who would much rather her remain his voiceless, imprisoned wife. The quote is ever more relevant to this shoot now, emphasising that although steps have been made over many years in the feminist movement, women are still not unconditionally “free”.
Location & Composition
In the shots, the aim is to convey a sense of intimacy between the two models and between the models and photographer. Revealing poses, open postures and relaxed, lethargic facial expressions should help to achieve this. The postures are not overly-animated and are relatively natural. To remain inkeeping with POP magazine, angles will be experimented with and the lighting will be kept relatively natural and the composition will be kept fairly simple and not overloaded. Natural lighting should be easy to achieve because the shoot will be occurring on half on location. Ideally, the story is set in the gardens and house of a stately baroque home, however due to budget and time limitations, the shoot will take place in the park and gardens surrounding Coombe Abbey. The shots will therefore feature the architecture in the background and will use gateways, doorways, archways, trees and tamed shrubbery to frame the models. This will thus act as a reminder of the past (in the background) influencing the present (models and fashions in the foreground).
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Hair & Makeup Styling The beauty styling will heavily refer to the Baroque theme and takes inspiration from the bold, rich colours and metallics of the 18th Century. They were used to convey an individual’s wealth and fortune, however in this photoshoot they will be used to communicate a sense of self-worth, rather than financial value. This will reflect the sub-theme of selfies and celebrating how women communicate in the modern day. The eyebrows and eyelash styling will remain minimal to reflect the trends of the era. Mimicking the clothing, the hair and makeup for the shoot will be all about layering - bright powder shades and high glosses will compliment the floral outfits and reflect the intensity of the shoot. The makeup will also reference the very theatrical beauty routines used in ‘The Duchess’ and, in general, by the women in the 18th Century. The hair styling will also credit the Baroque wigs in the movie, with lots of texture and volume.
Props In order to contrast with the prints and floral laces used in the shoot, and to stop the models looking too ‘prettified’, they will be taking selfies with their phones in some of the shots. This will also be symbolic of the women’s influence of today, versus the women in ‘The Duchess’ who are denied a voice time and time again. Similarly, flower motifs will be used to symbolise not only femininity as a force of nature, but also fertility which runs as a main theme throughout ‘The Duchess’ and is Georgiana’s primary “obligation” and purpose to her husband. The use of reflective props, such as the phone, should also be used to compliment the metallic glossy makeup styling and leather accessories. In the studio, the use of the chair should also add another dynamic in terms of levels, and should also help to achieve the models poses. In the studio a sheet background will be used, rather than a paper roll as this will contribute to the vintage intimacy of the shoot.
Freedom In Moderation
The models will have soft features, similar to the natural looks and styles of the characters of ‘The Duchess’. Full voluminous eyebrows, relatively pale skin tones and glowy cheeks will be their predominant features.
To refer to the film, the models will be around 20-25 in appearance, however will also have a youthful charm to them to reflect the amount of pressures and expectations that young women had to deal with in the 18th Century.
The models, who will be posed in intimate positions with one another, would ideally be blonde and darker haired. This will be visually stimulating and will reference the complicated friendship between Georgiana and Elizabeth.
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Despite being heavily influenced by the fashion items in ‘The Duchess’ and the expressive power that they have, the models will not be in historical costume. This is because the shoot is for an editorial campaign and must remain inkeeping with the content of POP. The excessive floral prints, trims and frills of SS19, however, are inspired by the Baroque era, as are the silhouettes and shapes. As in the 18th Century, the shoulders and hips will be exaggerated in size, whilst the waists will be cinched in and corseted. The historical infuence is really suited to the style of the magazine as most of the editorial features have an aged feel to them. In order to prevent the clothing pieces from becoming overly costume-like, they will be accessorised with leather boots and adornings. This will add a contemporary edge to the styles, as has been seen on the Alexander McQueen, Chanel, Zimmermann, Marc Jacobs, John Galliano, Viktor & Rolf and Erdem 2019 runway shows. SS19 has revolutionised floral prints, puffball sleeves, tulle and decorative frills into something desirable. Leather fastenings, belts and corsets should also add a punk, rebellious tone to the shoot, which should also reflect the bold makeup and textured hair styles.
Freedom In Moderation
How far has the feminist movement come... The 21st Century states all women are now liberated from the constrictions that existed a few centuries ago, but is it freedom if it is only in moderation? Is it freedom if some limitations still exist, if only for a few who are still denied a voice? We take a look at how fashion has remained a constant form of communication and mouthpiece for rebellion for the women of the world. Photography: Ben Mullins Creative Director & Stylist: Natalie Evans Makeup & Hair Styling: Georgina Piggin
Connie wears a vintage OSSIE CLARK maxi dress from the 1970s. Its puffball sleeves and voluminous ruffles are drawn in at the waist with a MANOKHI leather corset and underlaid by a TED BAKER black lace detail top.
Ellie wears a REISS MARION black lace bodysuit with bell sleeves and cut-out details beneath an ASOS Metallic Tulle Midi Dress. Mini is out - the longer the better; itâ€™s all about elongating the figure. The elegance of the outfit is counteracted by the rebelliousness of a pair of Green 1460 Smooth DR. MARTEN Boots.
Frills, trims and floral patterns should not be avoided this Spring and Summer. Layer them with clashing prints, cinch them at the waist and accessorise with boots and chokers. Ellie compliments her vintage 1974 LIZ WILLIAMS dress in LIBERTY LONDON print with a MONSOON velvet choker. Connie wears a MONKI lace button-up blouse benath a VERO MODA floral ruffle maxi dress.
On the feet are a pair of Black Polished Smooth Jadon boots by DR. MARTEN.
In 2013, the term â€˜Selfieâ€™ was added to the Oxford English Dictionary. It is now a significant way for women to make themselves visible to the world and to communicate an idea or attitude to the world. With the rise of social media, there are more and more platforms that the female gender can use to promote their voice and demand to be heard. Thanks to mobile phones and the internet, women all over the globe have more freedom, and with the recent introduction of filters and editing apps, there are now new and innovative ways for women to express themselves.
In a shady patch of green, you can find the enchanting Ellie who, like any young millenial, is making the most of the lighting by taking a selfie. She wears a RIVER ISLAND red cable-knit oversized and distressed jumper loosely tucked into a GLAMOROUS maxi skirt with ruffle tiers in floral.
Board 1 Figure 1: Dibb, S. 2008. Keira Knightley in The Duchess. Figure 2: Pospieszynska, A. 2017. Maja Salamon and Julia Modzelewska for Harper’s Bazaar Poland. Styling by Ina Lekiewicz. Figure 3: Vivanco, M. 2018. Ondria Hardin. Styling by Ondria Hardin. Hair by Franco Gobbi. Makeup by Niki M’nray. Figure 4: Walker, T. 2015. Kate Moss for Vogue Italia. Makeup by Sam Bryant. Hair by Malcolm Edwards. Figure 5: Walker, T. 2012. Rose Hanbury Marchioness of Cholmondeley for LOVE Magazine. Figure 6: Marble, J. 2016. Alex in Bleary Eyed. Figure 7: Coulson, L. 2016. Julita Formella for ES. Figure 8: Stern, G. Wei Swee, L. 2017. Shone Puipia. Makeup and Hair by Leda Vaes. Figure 9: Antoni, G. 2016. Marie Claire Australia. Hair by Koh. Makeup by Sarah Tammer. Figure 10: Antoni, G. Fashion by Windy Aulia. Makeup by Gillian Campbell.
Board 3 Figure 1: Bing, Li. 2016. Maya Cartier photographer for ZINK Magazine. Hair and Makeup by Sabrina Rinaldi. Figure 2: Anthony, M. 2016. Figure 3: McLellan, A. 2018. Styling Suzanne Koller. Model Bambi Northwood-Blyth. Makeup by Samantha & Nicola Chapman. Figure 4: 3INA. 2018. Nu Cool Range. Figure 5: Lim, C. Leon, H. 2017. Kenzo SS17 Runway. Makeup by Lynsey Alexander. Hair by Anthony Turner. Figure 6: Elimeleh, O. 2018. Model Aleksandra Rudakova. Figure 7: Prisila Preciado, S. 2018. Strobe Cosmetics Collaboration. Figure 8: Okita, L. 2017. Vogue. Hair by KIYO Igarashi. Makeup by Laura Stiassni. Figure 9: Jo-Yeon, W. 2016. Elle. Figure 10: Ellis, L. 2017. Isabella Ridolfi for W Magazine. Styling by Clare Byrne. Figure 11: Akrans, C. 2014. Julia Hafstrom for Vogue China. Figure 12: Romo, R. 2018. Styled by Katie Qian. Makeup and Hair Board 2 by Francie Tomalonis. Model Meng Meng. Figure 1: Pospieszynska, A. 2017. Styled by Charlie Harrington. Figure 13: Malone, O. 2017. Magdalena Frackowiak for Harper’s Hair by Gareth Bromell. Makeup by Polly Osmond. Model Florence Bazaar Korea. Kosky. Figure 2: Rock, S. 2019. Spring 2019 Erdem Campaign. Styled by Board 4 Lucinda Chambers. Figure 1: Giambattista Valli. 2019. Giambattista Valli SS19 CamFigure 3: Aldridge, M. 2017. In the Garden for Numero Magazine. paign. Styled by Samuel Francois. Hair by Sebastien Bascle. Makeup by Al- Figure 2: Wolf, R. 2017. ice Ghendrih. Set Design by Trish Stephenson. Model Lorna Foran. Figure 3: Dibb, S. 2008. Keira Knightley in The Duchess. Figure 4: Zhang, L. 2018. Styled by Cathy Dong. Hair by Bon Fan Figure 4: Dibb, S. 2008. Hayley Atwell in The Duchess. Figure 5: Sanchez, E. 2018. ‘Golconda Skate Park’ featuring HoYZhang. Makeup by Chunnan. Figure 5: Seon Hye, S. 2016. Marie Claire Koria. Models Kim Seung eon Jung. Styled by Saani Wyz. Figure 6: Cecilie Bahnsen. 2019. Hee and Kim Yong Ji. Figure 7: Dr. Martens. 2017. Jadon Platform 8-Eye Boot. Figure 6: Otero, C. 2016. Figure 8: John Galliano. 2019. John Galliano SS19 Haute Couture. Figure 7: Edry, Y. 2015. Model Jonana Schlenzka. Figure 8: Young Jun, K. 2016. Seo Yoo Jin and Lee Myung Kwan for Figure 9: Marc Jacobs. 2019. Marc Jacobs SS19 Runway. Figure 10: Viktor & Rolf. 2019. Viktor & Rolf SS19 Haute Couture. Dazed and Confused Korea. Fashion Statements. Figure 9: Schoonover, C. 2018. Figure 10: Yakovlev, A. 2016. Art Director Lili Aleeva. Makeup by Figure 11: Zara. 2019. Mini Tote Bag. Figure 12: Kiev. 2019. Kiev SS19 Campaign. Pavel Natsevich. Styling by Hanna Yatsko. Figure 11: Le Drezen, C. 2019. Alexander McQueen Resort Collec- Figure 13: Erdem. 2019. Erdem SS19 Campaign. tion. Makeup by Thom Walker. Figure 14: Mango. 2018. Patent Pointed Heeled Side Zip Boots. Figure 15: Chanel. 2019. Chanel SS19 Haute Couture Runway.
Freedom In Moderation
Board 5 Page 122, Figure 1: Mullins, B. 2019. Styled by Natalie Evans. Hair and Makeup by Georgia Piggin. Model Connie Rudman. Ossie Clark Vintage 1970s Print Maxi Dress. Manokhi Leather Corset. Ted Baker Black Lace High Neck Top. Page 123, Figure 1: Mullins, B. 2019. Styled by Natalie Evans. Hair and Makeup by Georgia Piggin. Model Ellie Thompson. Reiss Marion Black Lace Bodysuit with Bell Sleeves. ASOS Metallic Tulle Midi Dress. Dr Marten Green 1460 Smooth Boots. Board 6 Page 124, Figure 1: Mullins, B. 2019. Styled by Natalie Evans. Hair and Makeup by Georgia Piggin. Models Ellie Thompson and Connie Rudman. Vintage 1974 Liz Williams Dress in Liberty London Print. Monsoon Velvet Choker. Monkie Lace Button-up Blouse. Vero Moda Floral Ruffle Maxi Dress. Page 125, Figure 1: Mullins, B. 2019. Styled by Natalie Evans. Hair and Makeup by Georgia Piggin. Model Connie Rudman. Monkie Lace Button-up Blouse. Vero Moda Floral Ruffle Maxi Dress. Dr Marten Black Polished Smooth Jadon Boots. Board 7 Page 126, Figure 1: Mullins, B. 2019. Styled by Natalie Evans. Hair and Makeup by Georgia Piggin. Model Ellie Thompson. Vintage 1974 Liz Williams Dress in Liberty London Print. Monsoon Velvet Choker. Page 127, Figure 1: Mullins, B. 2019. Styled by Natalie Evans. Hair and Makeup by Georgia Piggin. Models Ellie Thompson and Connie Rudman. Vintage 1974 Liz Williams Dress in Liberty London Print. Monsoon Velvet Choker. Monkie Lace Button-up Blouse. Vero Moda Floral Ruffle Maxi Dress. Dr Marten Black Polished Smooth Jadon Boots. Dr Marten Green 1460 Smooth Boots. Board 8 Page 128-9, Figures 1 & 2: Mullins, B. 2019. Styled by Natalie Evans. Hair and Makeup by Georgia Piggin. Model Ellie Thompson. River Island Red Cable-Knit Jumper. Glamorous Maxi Skirt with Ruffle Tiers in Floral.