J uly Aug ‘17
nagazasshi Issue 1 Volume 10 July/August 2017
Editor-in-chief Rosie Fordham
Andrew Haddow Yeti Mallavi Will Tiley
Copy Editor Will Powell
Layout and Design Dylan Nordstrom
Public Relations Melisa Ferrigno
Ethan Arlette Dominic Balasuriya Dan Cohen Rosie Fordham Joseph Heade Irene Klock Jennifer Koga Joseph Madamesila Patrick Maguire Yeti Mallavi Christina Morrow Will Morgan Dylan Nordstrom Will Powell Will Tiley Lisanne Wagner
Andrew Morris Matthew Nelson www.issuu.com/nagazasshi email@example.com cover photo Going Gallagher Dylan Nordstrom
ummer in Nagasaki is a season of mixed emotions. On the downside, there’s the unbearable heat and humidity, and the terrifying insects that make your house their home. On the upside, there are trips to the beach, festivals, and frozen treats. Even after three years here I can’t decide if summer is my favorite, or least favorite, season. In this issue we’ll examine these contradictions. We have a history of watermelon splitting (pg 10), info about delicious ice cream around the prefecture (pg 16), and we tell you some of the Nagasaki expat community’s most horrifying insect stories (pg 12). Plus, we reflect on this year’s firefly season with a peek at bioluminescent creatures (pg 14) and Irene Klock illustrates summer’s joys and sorrows in comic strip form (pg 18). This will be my final issue with The Nagazasshi, as I’m heading back to the US in August. It seems appropriate to say goodbye in such a vibrant, bittersweet season. I’ve been with this magazine for three amazing years, and now I extend my heartfelt thanks to the staff and readers, past and present, who’ve made working on it—and living in Nagasaki—such a joy. Here’s to you, and happy reading! Rosie Fordham
Nagasaki: City of Peace
Nightmares With Many Legs
Lights in the Night
Ice Cream in Nagasaki
Nihongo on the Go
Remembering the atomic bombing of Nagasaki City Rooftop brews, vegetarian dining, and watermelon splitting Creepy crawly terrorâ€Ś and how to avoid it Fireflies and bioluminescence
Dairy-ing to be different
A comic from an expat
photo Patrick Maguire
Hoshino Michio’s Journey July 12 - August 2, Nagasaki Prefectural Art Gallery Hoshino Michio was a nature photographer who spent 18 years capturing the beauty of Alaska. In honor of the 20th year since his passing, this exhibition showcases over 250 of his photographs and videos. 8 www.nagasaki-museum.jp/exhibition/archives/736
Nagasaki Minato Matsuri July 29-30, Nagasaki City Enjoy two days of food stalls, live entertainment, and a dazzling fireworks display by Nagasaki’s harbor! Locals and tourists alike flock to witness this yearly tradition. 8 at-nagasaki.jp/event/51803/
Tsushima Isaribi Yamakasa Festival June 29, Mitsushima, Tsushima Celebrate Tsushima's history! In this festival, children carry parade floats (yamakasa) bearing fishing lamps (isaribi) used to lure fish and squid. For small children, there’s a water festival at Mitsushima Cultural Hall. 8 walkerplus.com/event/ ar1042e185653/
Unzen Sankaku Festival 2017 August 11, Unzen City Nature, onsen, and music! Head on up to the mountain and enjoy the day at the campground next to Shirakumo Pond with local musicians and artisans. Tickets are available online or through Guesthouse Tsudoi in Unzen City. 8 unzen-sankaku-fes.com
Nagasaki Peace Ceremony August 9, Nagasaki Peace Park Attended by atomic bomb survivors and their families, as well as Japanese and foreign dignitaries, this ceremony remembers those who tragically lost their lives. The mayor of Nagasaki makes a peace declaration that represents a wish for world peace and the abolition of nuclear weapons. 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/108
Hirado Port Summer Festival August 5, Hirado City Get your fill of fireworks with Hirado’s own fireworks festival! Over 2300 will be shot into the air for the delight of the crowd. There will also be delicious food stalls and a variety of performances before the show. Prepare to be wowed! 8 nagasaki-tabinet.com/event/52063
Shoro Nagashi/ Spirit Boat Procession August 15, Nagasaki City This yearly event celebrates the lives of those who have passed on. Friends and family of the deceased construct spirit boats in which to carry the souls of their loved ones. Processions are held and the sound of firecrackers echoes through the streets. 8 at-nagasaki.jp/event/51798/
Omura Nagoshi Festival August 1-3, Omura City This three-day festival starts off with a fireworks display on the first night. A bustling night market serves festival favorites like yakitori and takoyaki, and performances range from taiko drumming to appearances by local celebrities. 8 nagasaki-tabinet.com/
Event of the Month
photo Christina Morrow
nagazasshi |July/August 2017
Nagasaki: City of Peace At 11:02am on August 9th, 1945, an atomic bomb was dropped on Nagasaki City, wiping out thousands of lives in an instant. Today, visitors to the city can see buildings and artifacts from this time firsthand, as well as visit memorials and monuments promoting world peace and nuclear disarmament. One-legged Torii Arch – Sanno Shrine
Located southeast of the hypocenter, this ancient Shinto shrine is especially notable for its damaged shrine gate (torii). Although half of the gate was destroyed by the explosion, what remains of the torii still stands today on the single remaining column. The shrine’s great camphor trees were thought to have died during the blast, but within a few years they started growing again and are still alive today, encapsulating the city’s recovery. 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/712/ Nagasaki Prefecture Tourism Association
Available in: English: 8 visit-nagasaki.com Español: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/es/ Français: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/fr/ Italiano: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/it/ Nederlands: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/nl/
N AGASAKI official visitor guide
Photo credit: all photos are the property of Nagasaki Prefecture Tourism Association
Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum
Filled with monuments, trees, and flowers, the Peace Park is located just north of the hypocenter, where the bomb fell. A place for quiet reflection and prayer, in the center of the park stands the Peace Statue, designed by sculptor Seibo Kitamura. Other statues in the park have been donated by countries around the world, in the spirit of world peace. The annual Peace Memorial Ceremony is held in front of the Peace Statue on August 9th.
This museum tells the story of the tragic events of August 9th. The multimedia displays describe the events that led to the bombing, and depict the horror of the destruction it wrought in graphic detail. Exhibits include original objects that were exposed to the bombâ€™s destructive forces and a reproduction of the ruins of Urakami Cathedral. Also featured are moving personal stories from atomic bomb survivors, including paintings and video testimonials.
Shiroyama Elementary School
Located just north of the hypocenter, this Catholic church built by hidden Christians was almost completely destroyed by the atomic blast. The bomb-damaged statues of the Virgin Mary and saints are a chilling reminder of the terrible force of the atomic bomb. A mass is held in the rebuilt church on the morning of August 9th to remember those who died, and in the evening, a solemn procession is made from the Peace Park to the church.
Located just 500m from the hypocenter, Shiroyama Elementary School suffered catastrophic damage, and countless students and staff lost their lives. The school remains closely tied to the memory of the atomic bombing and the drive for lasting peace. Shiroyama ESâ€™s recently refurbished museum is housed in a school building that survived the atomic bombing. Open to the public daily, explanations are written in Japanese, but an English pamphlet is available at the entrance.
nagazasshi |July/August 2017
words Ethan Arlette
S l a p n e c o s i a a ls e S
For the final time, Will Tiley has the inside track on whatâ€™s good to eat this time of year. Plus, grab a stick and head to the beach as he shares the blow-by-blow of the eccentric Japanese tradition of suikawari.
fter the unrelenting rain of June, summer has finally arrived. Vegetables now are abundant, varied and reasonably priced, providing a perfect accompaniment to the merciless heat and humidity. The love-it-or-hate-it goya (or bitter melon) is especially prominent and is the basis for the Okinawan classic goya chanpuru. But for those who really want to beat the heat, nothing comes close to the cooling powers of cucumber and edamame. Why not pay a trip to one of
Nagasakiâ€™s many beer gardens and enjoy a cold drink, a bowl of edamame and a glorious Nagasaki sunset? Summer means barbeque, and the fresh sardines available in summer are perfect for grilling. Why not stuff them with shiso leaves for a seasonal double whammy?! Once youâ€™ve eaten your fill, summer is also the perfect time for melons and watermelons. These massive fruits are perfect for sharing with friends, or for the more destructive amongst you, attacking with sticks. July/August 2017 | nagazasshi
Cocowalk Beer Garden - Nagasaki
The roof of Coco Walk, just near Urakami station, undergoes a miraculous transformation each summer. Tables are laid out, a buffet is opened, and visitors can come and enjoy a range of cold drinks and snacks, including the ubiquitous edamame bean. However, the real star of the show here is the glorious view over the rooftops and hills of Nagasaki, enhanced by the spectacular colors of the sunset.
〒852-8104 Nagasaki-shi Morimachi 1-55 ( 095-848-5509
Torusu - Omura
Italian Bar da Nobo - Nagasaki Enjoy world-class Italian cuisine in the heart of Nagasaki City! Specializing in Tuscan food, da Nobo is just a short stroll from Meganebashi and serves up mouth-watering appetizers made from the freshest produce. For vegetarians, the ribollita (a hearty vegetable stew) comes highly recommended. There are plenty of excellent meat options as well, and naturally, the restaurant features a great selection of wines that complement the food perfectly.
This little café can be hard to reach, but for those who make the trip, a treat is in store. The menu is entirely vegetarian and changes every month, ensuring that the very best seasonal vegetables appear at the right times. Using a layered braising technique called kasaneni, the vegetables are then used to make a range of dishes that pack a mighty flavor and do a world of good for your body. 〒856-0032 Omura 1-chome 2455-33 ( 0957-52-7778
〒850-0873 Nagasaki-shi Suwamachi 5-3 1F ( 095-895-9987 photos (background) Christina Morrow, (left) Dominic Balasuriya , (right) Will Tiley
A Seasonal Specials Bonus
One common observation people make after spending time in Japan is the connection that people have with nature. Careful respect for the natural world is ingrained deeply in Japanese culture and can be seen in many aspects of life, from festivals to food preparation. So where does the Japanese summer tradition of suikawari (literally, watermelon splitting) fit in? In this popular beach game, participants take turns putting on a blindfold and attempt to attack a watermelon with a big stick. Now, most of us have probably envisaged swinging some kind of weapon towards one of these fleshy giants and sending soft red pulp flying everywhere, but itâ€™s likely very few of us have actually tried it. The fact it is most popular in Japan seems even more surprising, as almost everything about this activity seems to contradict the stereotypical calm, non-destructive attitude of the people who invented it.
The rules of suikawari, according to the now defunct Japan SuikaWari Association, are relatively simple. The player must stand July/August 2017 | nagazasshi
between 5 and 7 meters from the unsuspecting melon, armed with a stick 5 cm in diameter and no more than 1.2 m in length. The participant is blindfolded (rules suggest dropping a 10,000 yen note in front of the participant to check this), spun around a number of times and then given 3 minutes to split the watermelon as cleanly and evenly as possible. A judge may then award a score for the quality of the break. So that, in all its strangeness, is the “how.” The “why” is much less clear. Some theories as to the origin of this sport say it started as a training exercise or a demonstration of swordsmanship, where soldiers would aim to cut melons and other fruits in half with a brisk swing of a katana. Alternatively, it may have been used by nobility as a game to entertain important guests. Some sources even mention Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the legendary medieval politician, general and lord, as a possible participant. Another theory suggests that the tradition of splitting watermelons was imported from Africa, along with the melons themselves. In fact, almost every source seems to give a slightly different origin story, and the honest truth is that no one knows for certain where this game came from. However, given the surreal nature of the game itself, this only adds to the mystique. Maybe it is just an act of wanton destruction after all…
Producers are always keen to spot an opportunity to promote their produce – Since the release of PPAP, for example, sales of pineapples have spiked and pineapple farmers have been quick to capitalize and promote on the back of the 50 second megahit. Well, the watermelon growers of Japan are no exception to this. The aforementioned Japan Suika-Wari Association was in fact set up by the (much less glamorous) Japan Agricultural Cooperative as a promotional wing. The effort has clearly had some impact, as suikawari continues to be seen on beaches around the country throughout the summer. It has featured prominently in Japanese media, from TV “beach specials” to anime, manga and even role playing games. Some towns even organize competitions as part of their local summer festivals to determine the best blindfolded destroyer of melons. Fortunately, this sport is not as wasteful as it sounds. Blue tarpaulins are carefully laid out to prevent the melon getting coated in sand, and once the fruit has been cut into sufficiently small chunks it can be shared and enjoyed by all participants. A relief, then, especially given that these things can cost several thousand yen each… So why not embrace one of Japan’s weirder and more surprising activities this summer?! It’s time to grab a watermelon and hit the beach! n photos Lisanne Wagner
Nightmares With Many Legs Entomophobes (that’s people with a fear of insects), BEWARE! Yeti Mallavi is here with some insect horror stories, and a few tips to keep your home bug free
ummer in Japan brings hot weather, fun festivals, delicious food… and insects the size of your face. We asked you to send in your creepiest experiences with these crawlies! A few years ago, I was visiting Senjokaku Hall on Miyajima. Senjokaku is a big open-air building with wooden floors, and visitors have to wear slippers. I was wandering around the hall when I looked down and spotted an enormous mukade (centipede) curled up between the floorboards, perfectly positioned to bite the ankles of unwary tourists. I immediately ran off to inform the ticket taker what was up. Face expressionless, she met my eyes and said “Mata?”—“Again?”
To my relief though, a man came by later to remove the mukade. How did he do it? He scooped it up with a giant pair of metal tongs, and tossed it in to the bushes nearby! -Rosie Fordham July/August 2017 | nagazasshi
It was on a warm evening. I was sitting on my floor chair talking on the phone when I thought I heard a strange clicking noise. I looked around and eventually saw it; a mukade, several centimeters long, was crawling on my legs! At first, I panicked and tried throwing it off with a good shake of my—thankfully long—shorts. When that didn’t work, I calmed myself enough to more carefully guide it onto the floor-all the while silently begging it not bite me before it was completely off my legs. Afterwards, I caught it with an envelope and a cup and killed it with boiling water. As my luck would have it, after that exciting ordeal I soon found a big, brown spider on my wall-mounted air conditioner. It ran away as I sprayed it, but turned up again the next morning dead on the floor. -Jennifer Koga
A week into my JET experience, I went to the sink at my base school to wash my coffee cup. When I picked up the sponge, I felt something wriggle in my palm. I turned it over, and discovered a mean-looking mukade trying to get to its (numerous) feet! Naturally, I yelped and threw it into the sink. The other teachers then came over and helped me kill it with hot water. -Will Morgan
They aren’t all bad! In Japan, some insects make for popular pets if you’re not allowed dogs or cats in your apartment. If you’re looking for some companionship, you should try getting a kabutomushi. These big beetles are easy to take care of and you can pick them up at pet stores or hobby shops. Or, try your hand at catching them in the wild!
Tips for Staying Bug Free! 1. Clean your kitchen regularly! Cleaning can sometimes be a drag, but if you make an effort to wash your dishes immediately and keep your kitchen crumb free, it will greatly reduce your creepy crawly encounters. 2. Use insect glue traps. Place a couple of these around your house to make sure bugs don’t wander. Great for ants and cockroaches! Pick them up at your local grocery or general store. 3. Keep your garbage in a bin with a lid. Not only does it reduce bug attraction, but it also keeps bad smells away during these humid months. nagazasshi |July/August 2017
4. Tape up any holes or crevices. You can have your windows and doors closed 24/7, all year round, but bugs will always try to find an alternative way into your dwelling. Look around at the corners of your rooms and closets, as well as near your toilet and bathtub. 5. Use screened windows, especially at night! If your lights are on, bugs will try to march right on in uninvited. So if you’re looking to get a little breeze flowing through your home, try to make sure you’re screened first. n photo flickr.com/onceatraveler
Lights in the Night: Fireflies and Bioluminescence
Pay attention, class! Will Powell presents Bioluminescence 101, shares some of Nagasaki prefecture’s best firefly viewing spots, and gives details on an annual firefly festival on Goto!
he arrival of summer is a much anticipated occasion as it heralds the end of the rainy season. However the coming of summer does mean that the time for fireflies is over. For many in Japan, the flickering lights of fireflies against the dark sky can evoke a sense of nostalgia for years gone by. For those of us new to the country, they are a chance to create some magical memories of our own. Across the wide range of bioluminescent animals, the chemical reaction that causes their light is a process called chemiluminescence. Animals like fireflies produce the light emitting pigment luciferin, which then reacts with oxygen and the enzyme luciferase, and light is produced. The chemical reaction that
many different animals use to create light is always very similar, but they all have very different reasons for doing so. Animals use the light they produce for many purposes including finding a mate, attracting prey, camouflage, and as a warning to predators to not eat them. Firefly larvae, commonly known as glow worms, incubate all year and emerge as fireflies in late May to early June, using their short time in the air to search for a mate by shining as brightly as they can. Don’t miss the brief window to catch this natural spectacle! You won’t find these glittering bugs just anywhere, however. In order to survive, fireflies need crystal clear flowing water, the further away from populated July/August 2017 | nagazasshi
areas the better. Unfortunately, these naturally hospitable habitats are in decline as pollution and the use of pesticides continues to rise. Luckily Nagasaki prefecture still has many places of outstanding natural beauty where you can experience the wonders of bioluminescence. The most famous of these sites is most likely on the Goto Islands, where they have their own annual festival celebrating fireflies. Along the banks of the Aiko River you have a great chance to see a whole swarm of the shimmering insects. The festival includes food and fun, and is held from late May until early June. Consider planning a firefly hunting expedition for next year. Another great spot for viewing fireflies is a small river a little ways north of Isahaya City. Away from the lights of the city, this small, quiet stream is secluded enough and dark enough to see the beautiful fireflies illuminate the summer sky. The Shimabara Peninsula is also a great place to see some fireflies, with quiet
photos Joseph Madamesila
streams all over the place. One perfect location is just south of the town of Aino, only a short 20 minute walk from the train station. Fireflies are not the only luminous animal that Nagasaki has to offer, in the summer months and into early autumn the waters off the coast of Goto will also be sparkling mysteriously as millions of bioluminescent plankton light up the oceans. The sight of the water glittering and shining in the moonlight is something very special and seems almost magical. These are just a few locations where you can experience the unique phenomenon of bioluminescence, but these will not be the only places. If youâ€™ve got a small clean, secluded stream or river near you, then come firefly season why not go exploring and try to track down some of the ethereal glowing bugs. Happy hunting!
Coordinates Isahaya 32.903961, 130.025287 Shimabara 32.810454, 130.166074
Ice Cream in Nagasaki Dairy-ing to be Diff erent
Joseph Heade lets us in on some of the hidden gems around Nagasaki prefecture for ice cream lovers
or many, the first association one would make on hearing “Nagasaki” and “ice cream” would be the city’s own chirin-chirin ice cream, the onomatopoeically-named sorbet treat of local origin. Stacked in rows and molded to form a flower, this icy treat can be found around the city all year round. For more than fifty years chirin-chirin vendors have served hardy ice tulips and roses on the streets of Nagasaki. It would be remiss to write an article about ice cream and not include it. With that respect paid, let’s delve deeper into the modern ice cream culture of Nagasaki prefecture. The mountains of Omura hold some rather unexpected delights, a local favorite being Bamboo Café. Enjoy delicious homemade gelato, indie rock music, and a very relaxed environment. Somewhat inaccessible without a car, the roadside café is truly a “blink-and-you’llmiss-it” affair for first time visitors. Its modest exterior belies the wondrous treats that are to be found inside. The café interior is darkened, with Christmas lights and other assorted holiday items sparkling in the rafters. The atmosphere is inviting and low-key cool—a singersongwriter corner would not be out of place here.
Gelato in general is known to contain less air and more flavoring than other icy treats, thus contributing to its particular richness and density. The freshness of Bamboo Cafe’s own gelato is likely to be its winning attribute. Certain flavors are seasonal, such as the pumpkin and cherry blossom flavors. The crushed cacao gelato has an intense flavor that alludes to the artisanal treat’s homemade origins, and fresh chocolate blocks sometimes appear in the gelateria window to top off your scoop. On a recent visit (taxing Nagazasshi research), flavors included crushed cacao, milk cheese, mango, black treacle kinako, berry milk, and roasted nuts. Popular flavors may run out on busy days, so get there early for the best selection!
Bamboo Café 〒856-0043 Omura-shi Ogawachimachi 875-2 ( 0957-54-5136
Conveniently located five minutes from Nagayo station is a small escape from reality. Café de Gino Café de Gino is a quaint 〒851-2130 little spot, Nishisonogi-gun neatly situated Nagayo-cho, in an idyllic Manabino, 2 leafy space. Chome 2-1-4 Dreamy garden ( 095-887-4704 paintings and drawings, painted by the owner herself, hang from the eccentrically decorated walls. The whimsical quality of looking out at a leaf covered garden while dining may cause romantic feelings to bubble.
Seasonal flavors also come and go through Café de Gino. A berry yogurt soft ice cream blend with a topping of cream, and the cocoa ice-cream with assorted toppings are both not to be nagazasshi |July/August 2017
Finally, New York Dō in Nagasaki City is a humble shop like many others on its street, but it holds a tasty secret. From the entrance, freezers line the wall to the left, and a small glass case with a selection of tartlets features to your right. These freezers hold castella ice cream, treats based on the rather ingenious idea to take Nagasaki castella, a gift from 16th century Portuguese travelers, and a hunk of ice cream, and sandwich them together. It’s as simple as it sounds but utterly delicious and worthy of its own paragraph. Flavors come in red bean paste with mochi, green tea, loquat, strawberry, chocolate and, the store favorite, plain vanilla. It’s a snack for hot weather while on-the-go, as these delights come individually packaged. Nibble on the soft castella before biting deeper to the harder ice cold ice cream, all while enjoying the splendor of the Megane Bridge area of Nagasaki city. photos Joseph Heade
Café de Gino offers a lineup of sweet things to tickle your palate. The Japanese style parfait in particular is a lighter treat for your post-dinner appetite. Clean and fresh, this dessert has a soft taste on the tongue. The matcha jelly that sits in the bottom half of the glass has a mild flavor that wonderfully compliments the purple sweet potato ice cream. Cooled red-bean zenzai lines the bottom of the dessert, so make sure to dig deep to get the best scoop possible. Mochi balls, cream, and cornflakes sprinkle the top to greet your spoon. For coffee lovers, try the mocha chocolate parfait. A grand display of chocolate ice cream, cream, diced banana and mocha sauce sit on a bed of rich coffee jelly that gives the parfait a kick.
missed. It’s difficult to go awry in the dessert section of Café de Gino.
New York Dō 〒850-0851 Nagasaki-shi Furukawamachi 3-17 ( 095-822-4875
Nagasaki is a far cry from the gelato lined streets of somewhere like Sicily, but draw back the curtain or go around that innocuous corner and you’ll find a bevy of sweet goodness just waiting to be devoured. n
July/August 2017 | nagazasshi
Nihongo on the 27 日本語オン・ザ Will Morgan
GO ダン コーヘン
Summer in Japan is awesome, but can also get uncomfortable. You’ll need to be on guard against 日焼け (hiyake - sunburn), and, even with sunscreen, you’ll need to stay hydrated or risk 熱中症 (necchūshō - heatstroke). This time we’ve listed some ways to help keep cool even on the hottest 真夏日 (manatsubi - summer day over 30°C.) 扇子 SENSU 日傘 HIGASA 浴衣 YUKATA 甚平 JINBEI かき氷 KAKIGORI
These iconic folding fans are great to keep around to beat the heat. う ちわ (uchiwa) are their non-folding cousins, and are often given out on the street with advertisements on them. These “sun umbrellas,” or parasols, are a great way to stay cool and protect your skin, and are carried by many Japanese women. A traditional garb resembling a lighter kimono. They are very popular at summer festivals, ranging from flashy patterns to more traditional designs. Another type of traditional summer attire, this time with separate shorts and top. Although originally meant to be worn at home, they also can be spotted at summer festivals. Shaved ice, or Japan’s answer to the snow cone. You can find these at most beaches and summery spots. Blue Hawaiian is our favorite flavor, especially when you add ミルク (miruku - condensed milk).
Lastly, be on the lookout for this kanji on restaurant menus:
Pronounced rei or hiya, this kanji will often be colored blue to indicate exactly what it means: cold! In summer many restaurants put out cold versions of popular dishes. We especially recommend cold spicy dishes like 冷やし担々麺 (hiyashi tantan men - a spicy, chilled Szechuan noodle dish). 楽しい夏を！(tanoshii natsu wo! - Have a great summer!)
Our first issue of volume 10 kicks off with a look at the good and the bad--and the tasty--of summer. Learn all about the history of waterme...
Published on Jun 30, 2017
Our first issue of volume 10 kicks off with a look at the good and the bad--and the tasty--of summer. Learn all about the history of waterme...