Issuu

December 2025

A Nature Museum Unlike any Other Reykjavík’s Nr. 1 Attraction

Perlan is Iceland’s Largest Museum where visitors explore interactive exhibits, step inside a real ice cave, witness the Northern Lights, and experience volcanic power. Each display reveals our bond with nature, inspiring deeper appreciation for the world we share.

Highlights

· 100-metre-long Ice Cave

· Immersive Volcano show

· Glacier exhibition

· Áróra – Planetarium show

· Forces of Nature exhibits

· Látrabjarg Bird Cliff

· 360° Observation Deck

CONTENT LIST FROM THE EDITOR

November was a month of festivals in Iceland, celebrating music, dance and literature. Now the days continue getting shorter until the last Sunday of Advent, 21 December. From that day, the days start getting brighter step by step until we reach summer. We can now officially start looking forward to Christmas, hopefully surrounded by loved ones, good food and atmosphere and able to take a precious pause for a moment from the turbulent times out there.

Travelers to Iceland in December are in for a treat. December, after all, is the fun part of winter! As the Christmas lights start going up already at the beginning of November, the whole town starts getting ready for the holiday season, and the twinkling lights have a way of brightening up the ever-darkening days. Spending time with family, eating good food, and curling up with a good book are activities to enjoy this time of year.

The What’s On Information Centre, Laugavegur 5.

WHAT’S ON — VOLUME 43 — ISSUE

12

Published by: MD Reykjavík ehf. Laugavegur 5, 101 Reykjavik. Tel.: 551-3600

Publisher: Sigurþór Marteinn Kjartansson

Distribution: dreifing@whatson.is

Tel: 830-3629

And even after Christmas is over, there’s still plenty to look forward to. New Year’s Eve in Reykjavík is a special experience, with the entire night sky lighting up in a spectacle to the strike of the clock as Icelanders and visitors crowd around the city’s many bonfires. If the winter can be a little dark and cold at times, Icelanders have a way of perfecting their way of celebrating that brings light and cheer even into the dark and cold.

So while there’s reason to be informed and safe this travel season, there’s also plenty of reason to celebrate and be grateful.

Welcome to Reykjavík!

Map of Reykjavík: Friðrik Bjarnason

Editor: Guðmundur F. Magnússon

Content writers: The What’s On Team

Ad sales: Reynir Elís Þorvaldsson, reynir@whatson.is

Printing: Printall AS

WHAT‘S ON IN REYKJAVÍK is published monthly, covering events and happenings in and around Reykjavík. Opinions expressed in WHAT‘S ON IN REYKJAVÍK are those of the individual authors. While every effort has been made to ensure the information presented is accurate, prices, times, dates and other information may be subject to change.

An experience beyond compare

A season of wonder awaits

Scan code and book now

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Staff Recommendations

There are countless things to do in Iceland and it can often feel completely overwhelming to even start thinking about it!

Here are a few recommendations from our expert staff at the What’s On Tourist Information Offices on Laugavegur 5 and Laugavegur 54. Feel free to drop by for a chat or if you have any questions about your stay in Iceland!

MULTI-DAY TOURS

Multi-day tours in Iceland are your chance to relax and leave the planning to local travel experts. No need to worry about navigating Icelandic rural roads in winter or where to stop for a bite. Just sit back and enjoy. You can still see all the spectacular sights and choose a duration that fits, from two days to seven days with a full ring road adventure.

NORTHERN LIGHTS

The Northern Lights are properly back now that it’s December and the days are getting darker. Aurora Borealis is one of nature’s most spectacular light displays, captivating the imagination of those lucky enough to witness its dance across the night sky. Among the prime locations to experience this celestial phenomenon, Iceland stands out as a top destination for aurora enthusiasts.

GOLDEN CIRCLE

The small group Golden Circle tour combined with a bathing experience in the Blue Lagoon is the ultimate treat! The tour is operated on minibuses led by one of our experienced driver guides. You will have the comfort of travelling in a comfortable vehicle in a small group and enjoy the highlights of the area now known as the Golden Circle.

ACTIVITIES IN REYKJAVÍK

Reykjavík is a simple enough city to navigate and it’s mostly walkable!

In our wonderful city you’ll find plenty of things to do and there are a few attractions in particular that we recommend, that allow you to quickly experience bits and pieces of Iceland.

Great warm up for your explorations outside of the capital area!

PERLAN

FLYOVER

LAVA SHOW

LAGOONS

WHAT TO DO IF YOU ONLY HAVE ONE DAY TO SPEND IN ICELAND

Our first piece of advice if you have just one day to spend in Iceland is to change your flight and stay for at least a week. If that’s not an option, here’s what we suggest to get the most out of this unique destination in such a short time.

If you just want to see the highlights

The Golden Circle is the most popular day tour from Reykjavík – and it’s easy to see why. The classic route includes three stops that also happen to be three of the most captivating natural wonders in Iceland. Tour operators may add their own twists, but you’re sure to stop at Þingvellir, a national park straddling the rift between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates; Gullfoss, an awe-inspiring waterfall that lends its name to the Golden Circle (gull translates to gold); and the Geysir geothermal area, with an erupting hot spring guaranteed to impress. You can complete the Golden Circle in half a day (depending on the tour you book), leaving you time to squeeze more into your short stay.

If you want to visit the newest lava field

The Reykjanes peninsula continues to remind us why Iceland is known as the Land of Ice and Fire. There have been eruptions on and off on the peninsula since 2021. The eruption sites are approximately an hour drive from Reykjavík and some of the recent lava fields are accessible to people that can handle hiking for up to five hours or so. Another option is seeing the lava fields from

the birds-eye by choosing a helicopter tour over the area. Seeing these freshly made lava fields first-hand is a spectacle and a reminder of nature’s fury. Please do not walk on the young lava fields, because lava takes years to fully cool down. There may be molten lava beneath the seemingly solid surface. Check out safetravel.is for the latest safety information regarding the Reykjanes peninsula.

If you want to see a glacier

There’s no better way to get a feel for the latter half of Iceland’s “Land of Fire and Ice” moniker than to go on a glacier hike. Glacier hikes are relatively easy and accessible for most, especially because professional gear is provided. You get to walk on a glacier with guides who know everything there is to know about glaciers and Iceland in general. What’s cooler than that?

If you want a little luxury

What’s better than a spa day? Visiting a geothermal spa fed by Europe’s most powerful hot spring, Deildartunguhver. At Krauma Natural Geothermal Baths, the water from the hot spring is mixed with cool glacial water for a perfect temperature. It has five hot tubs and one cold bath, plus a relaxation room, two steam baths and an infrared sauna. Alternatively, if you don’t want to leave the capital area, book the seven-step “Ritual” at the Sky Lagoon for a luxurious afternoon of soaking, steaming, scrubbing and other soothing activities.

If you want an adrenaline rush

Are you looking for a thrill? Go on a buggy ride. A buggy is a fast, sturdy and stable ATV, perfect for anyone who loves to get their blood pumping in the great outdoors – and who doesn’t mind getting a little dirty in the process. Driving a buggy through rough Icelandic terrain, over mud puddles, dirt roads or snow, makes for an exhilarating day.

If you want to hit the high seas

Marine life abounds in the water around Iceland, and you can see everything from harbour porpoises and white-beaked dolphins to minke and humpback whales on a whale watching tour. Tour boats depart Reykjavík’s old harbour throughout the day, cruising to the spots where sightings are most likely. Nothing beats the thrill of seeing a massive whale breach or watching one slap its enormous flukes on the water’s surface. If you have a few hours to spare before or after the cruise (or if you get seasick and a cruise is out of the question), check out the Whales of Iceland exhibition to learn more about these gentle giants.

Stop by the What’s On information centre, or send us an email, info@whatson.is , and ask the staff to help you plan an unforgettable vacation.

& Treat your taste buds at two historical food halls: Hlemmur 101 and Grandi at the old harbour.

How to Travel Safely in Iceland

With a subarctic climate and a tiny population, Iceland is a little different from other popular travel destinations. Desolate landscapes, extreme weather, mountain roads, geothermal areas, and the ocean can all catch the unprepared off-guard. Keep the following six safety guidelines in mind when planning your trip to Iceland.

1. Familiarise yourself with Iceland’s emergency numbers

The emergency number in Iceland is 112. You can dial it free of charge to reach emergency services like ambulances, rescue teams, and the police, and there is also a 112 app that can send your information to emergency services at the press of a button.

2. Follow updates on Safetravel.is

Icelandic weather is infamously fickle, and extreme weather is not uncommon. In wintertime, high wind speeds and snow can frequently limit visibility. Safetravel.is offers up-to-date road condition maps, weather alerts, and plenty of helpful tips and information on the best and safest way to travel around the country. There’s an app for that, too. It’s well worth downloading and checking regularly throughout your travels.

3. Be extra careful when visiting geothermal areas

The water in geothermal areas can reach temperatures upward of 100°C. Falling in or slipping can result in severe burns. Safe paths are clearly marked, so stick to them, and never walk on ground that is steaming.

WHAT’S ON

4. Keep a safe distance from the ocean

Sneaker waves – disproportionally large waves that encroach farther onto shore than regular waves – are frequent occurrences at the Reynisfjara and Kirkjufjara beaches in South Iceland. Sneaker waves are more powerful than people expect, and accidents have proven fatal in the past. Keep a safe distance from the water and observe nearby signs.

5. Stay on the path

Whether visiting a waterfall, a geothermal area, or hiking in the mountains, staying on the marked footpath is imperative. Respect when paths are closed and heed all signs. It’s closed for a reason, either to protect you or fragile nature.

6. Let someone know where you’re going

If you’re planning on hiking or hitchhiking, let someone know where you’re going and when you’ll be back. You can also upload your travel plan to www.safetravel.is.

Taste the best of Iceland ICELANDIC GOURMET FEAST

Starts with a shot of the infamous Icelandic spirit Brennivín

Late night dining

Our kitchen is open until 23:00 on weekdays and 24:00 on weekends

Followed by 7 delicious tapas

• Smoked puffin with blueberry “brennivín” sauce

• Icelandic arctic char with candy beets salad, asparagus and elderflowerhollandaise

• Pan-fried line caught blue ling with lobster sauce

• Icelandic foal with truffle mashed potatoes and Spanish chorizo sauce

• Lobster tails baked in garlic

• Grilled Icelandic lamb tenderloin with beer-butterscotch sauce

And for dessert

• White chocolate "Skyr" mousse with passion coulis

TAPASBARINN | Vesturgata 3B Tel: 551 2344 | tapas.is

3 Must-Do Experiences in Iceland:

✓ Northern Lights

✓ Hot Springs

✓ *

* The latest addition. Show every *15 minutes at Harpa Concert Hall.

7 FACTS YOU (PROBABLY)

DON’T KNOW

ABOUT VOLCANOES

1. Liberty, Equality, Fraternity... Volcanicity?

The 1783-4 eruption of Laki was the biggest eruption in recorded history. An estimated 42 billion tonnes of poisonous gases and dust darkened the skies. Haze from the eruption floated east as far away as India, disrupting the monsoon season and leading to drought and crop failures. The famine that hit Egypt in 1784, was a result of the eruption, and killed roughly one-sixth of its population. Back in Iceland, an estimated 20–25% of the population died from famine, and over half the livestock was poisoned or killed by giant hailstones. Food shortages contributed to social unrest across Europe and contributed to the French Revolution of 1789 that gave birth to western democracy.

2. And in second Place…

Iceland was also the site of the second biggest emission in recorded history: the 2014 eruption of Bárðarbunga. In just 6 months, Bárðarbunga produced enough lava to cover the island of Manhattan - 85km2

3. Enter the Volcano

In Jules Verne’s Journey to the Centre of the Earth, the heroes climb down a crater on the Snæfellsnes peninsula to find vast oceans filled with extinct prehistoric creatures. While an encounter with a herd of mastodons is unlikely, a trip to Þríhnúkagígur (Thrihnukagigur) still feels pretty Jules Verne. Þríhnúkagígur is the only volcano in the world

where you can descend into the magma chamber. Discovered in 1974 and opened to the public in 2012.

4. New Earth

Surtsey, Iceland’s most southern point was formed by a volcanic eruption at the bottom of the ocean and emerged from the water on November 14, 1963. It was immediately granted protection by law, and to this day, only scientists are allowed to go there, and even they have to get special permission. This means that we have been able to monitor how life settles on a brand-new land from the beginning, which has, of course, been invaluable to scientists.

5. SuperFresh Lava

Iceland has a third of the world’s fresh lava. ‘Fresh’ is a relative term that may need defining. When discussing Arctic Char, it’s best measured in hours. In geological time fresh lava means lava that’s less than five hundred years old. Iceland is full of these ‘Here’s one I prepared earlier’ landscapes offering snapshots of geological time and processes.

6. Icelandic volcanoes are on the move!

Due to changes in on the tectonic level of the earth, Iceland’s volcanoes are actually moving east. Veeeeeeeery slowly. If you visited Iceland 20 million years ago, the volcanoes would all have been situated in the West Fjords. Fifty million years ago, during the Eocene epoch, you would find our volcanoes living happily in Greenland, and 70

million years ago, our volcanoes would have been terrorising dinosaurs somewhere in Canada.

7. Iceland has had volcanic eruptions every year since 2021

The island has somewhere between 150-200 volcanoes, split into different volcanic systems. About 30 different systems are still considered “active” in Iceland, and 13 of them have erupted since the Viking Settlement in 874. The current “wave” of eruptions began in Fagradalsfjall on the Reykjanes peninsula in 2021. Geologists believe this current phase could last decades, if not centuries - a powerful reminder of nature’s might!

The Northern Lights are back

Towards the end of August, it gradually starts to get dark at night again. Luckily, that means that the northern lights are back. They never really left, they were just drowned out by the midnight sun. Seeing the northern lights is a sublime experience, and we recommend seeking them out while you are in Iceland. The phenomenon is caused when solar flares interact with the earth’s magnetic field about 80 miles up. It’s sometimes called the ‘solar wind,’ which moves like a wisp of smoke caught in

a slow draft. Their movement might seem familiar, but the scale is so vast and unlike anything else that it’s… well, it’s hard to put into words. Better to see for yourself.

The northern lights aren’t a reliable attraction, and seeing them can be a matter of being in the right spot at the right time. It’s not all down to luck, however, as there are a few things you can do to maximise your chances of seeing the ethereal lights.

Different ways to see the northern lights:

Going by coach:

Cheap and effective. A northern lights tour by bus or minibus is a good way to see the lights if you’re not too concerned about being surrounded by a lot of people and simply travelling by bus. Perhaps not the best time if you don’t see anything – but it’s the cheapest option to see the lights, and it gets the job done.

Going by boat:

A great experience regardless of lights. Going by boat is a very good choice for those who want to ensure they get something out of their tour even if no lights are found. Being out at sea and viewing the city lights from the water is in itself a great experience.

Top 8 tips for the northern lights

1 GET OUT OF TOWN

The city lights block the northern lights!

2 MAKE SURE IT’S DARK

Daylight and northern lights don’t go hand in hand!

3 MAKE SURE THE SKY IS CLEAR

The northern lights appear way above the clouds!

4 GIVE IT TIME AND BE PATIENT!

The northern lights don’t come out by order – be patient and you might get lucky!

5 SIGHTINGS CAN NEVER BE GUARANTEED

So we’d recommend a tour that includes some great activity as well as northern lights hunt – so you won’t feel disappointed!

WEAR SOMETHING WARM

It can get seriously cold, especially when the sky is clear and you’re waiting for a long time.

7 KNOW YOUR CAMERA!

Taking photos with a flash won’t work. Ever. A tripod and long exposure are your friends!

8 ENJOY IT!

Lie down on the ground. Look up. Enjoy!

Going by super-jeep:

Exclusive and thrilling. Going on a hunt for the lights with a specially modified superjeep is a thrilling experience that’s fun and exciting. Sights can of course never be guaranteed, but the off-road action of a superjeep makes for a great adventure, the lights are just an added bonus.

Book your northern lights tour now online or at the What’s On tourist information centre, at Laugavegur 5.

DayTours

FOR ALL LEVELS OF RIDERS

EXPERIENCE THE UNIQUE ICELANDIC HORSE

Íshestar has been offering horseback riding tours in Iceland since 1982, welcoming riders of all levels to explore Icelandic nature on our friendly Icelandic horses. Ride through stunning lava fields, rolling hills, and breathtaking landscapes just 15 minutes from Reykjavík city centre.

Established in 1982 – We have over 40 years of experience providing horseback riding adventures.

We offer a wide range of short rides, like the Lava Tour through lava fields, the Horses and WafflesTour with a sweet treat afterward, the Viking Tour for a powerful adventure, and Private Rides.

Experienced Guides – Our knowledgeable, multilingual guides ensure a safe and enjoyable experience for all riders.

Sörlaskeið 26, Hafnarfjörður

354-555-7000 www.ishestar.is

Beginners & Experienced riders welcome info@ishestar.is

NORTHERN LIGHTS PHOTOGRAPHY

DO s AND DON'Ts

DO have a relatively good camera with you that allows for easy and quick change of settings.

DON’T rule out taking a photo on your phone’s camera.

DO have your ISO set to at least 800 and your aperture as low as it goes.

DON’T forget your tripod. However little you think you move while waiting for your camera to take your picture, believe me, you always move and it’s enough to make your photos blurry.

DO keep your shutter speed anywhere between 5 to 30 seconds, although the optimal would be between 5 and 20 seconds (30 seconds is only for very faint lights, basically).

DON’T forget to plan ahead when booking your northern lights tour- finding a stable surface on a boat is difficult, and large group tours might make your photography session more difficult.

DO consider using continuous shooting, so that while shooting the lights, you don’t have to keep staring at them through your camera.

DON’T focus solely on your photographs and forget to be in the moment. You don’t see the northern lights every day!

If you need any more information, check out www.whatson.is or stop by the What’s On information office at Laugavegur 5.

HOW TO READ THE NORTHERN LIGHTS FORECAST

The northern lights forecast can be found on en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/aurora/, but it is a little hard to decipher if you’ve never seen it before. Our handy-dandy guide should make things a little bit easier.

Going on a tour?

There are many tours taking you far from the bright city lights for a better chance of seeing the aurora. These tours will be cancelled if there is no chance of seeing the lights. All major operators can be trusted to do this, first of all, because there is a high standard of professionalism in Iceland, but more importantly, because they lose money if they take you out needlessly – most of them promise to take you out again for free if you don’t see anything.

The Colours

White means no clouds while dark green means very cloudy. The different shades of green then mean more, or less, cloudy.

The numbers

The numbers are a combination of how likely it is for the lights to be active and how active they will be. Don’t be discouraged if the number is low, it’s actually very rare for the number to be higher than five. Also, take the scale with a grain of salt; a low number doesn’t mean that they won’t come out or won’t be impressive, and a high number isn’t a guarantee that they will be glorious all through the night.

CHRISTMAS IN ICELAND a Feast of Light and Peace

Christmas in Iceland is the biggest celebration of the year. Perhaps this has something to do with the dark days of winter and the fact that Christmas coincides with the winter solstice. Whatever the reason, Christmas in Iceland is much more than just one day of celebration, there are 13 of them, and that’s not even counting Christmas Eve!

Over the top celebrations

Iceland is a very Christmas-oriented nation. It’s no wonder really, the winter months are dark, cold and damp, so celebrating with pretty lights and lots of staying inside and eating is a no-brainer. In the good old days, when people lived in dark and cramped turf houses half-buried in the ground, lived off the land and just tried their best not to freeze to death or get lost in a blizzard during the winter months, the winter solstice was a cause for celebration. It made

perfect sense to turn on the best candles they had, have the best meal possible, and put on their best clothes during the darkest days of winter, because it meant that there were brighter days ahead. The same mentality still applies, we celebrate with all our hearts the fact that we’ve reached the darkest point of winter and that from now on, each day will be just a little bit longer than the last, until, finally, summer comes again.

Preparations

For most Icelanders, the time spent preparing for Christmas is no less important or magical than the actual event. During the last four weeks before Christmas, Advent, people spend their time attending Christmas concerts, going Christmas shopping (a lengthy process that involves a lot of meeting relatives and acquaintances on the street), baking cookies and laufabrauð, and making sure their homes are decorated with brighter lights than their neighbours’.

One tradition can certainly be said to be allIcelandic: eating fermented skate on December 23. Visitors to Iceland are often bewildered on this day by the foul odour surrounding the beautiful Christmas decorations in Reykjavík. This day is very important to many Icelanders and must not be underestimated as it is a vital part of the holidays.

Family parties

Getting together with family is what this is all about. Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and the Second Day of Christmas are usually packed with family events - think playing cards with your grandma in her best dress while sipping hot chocolate after stuffing yourself with smoked lamb, white sauce, and green peas. That doesn’t mean Icelanders don’t use the holidays to go out as well. The bars are open longer than usual on the Second Day of Christmas, and the weekend between Christmas and New Year’s Eve is usually packed with concerts and parties. Last but not least is of course New Year’s Eve itself when Icelanders go all out. Expect fireworks, glitter, parties, and even more fireworks.

Celebrated on December 24…

Christmas Day in Iceland is a cosy affair, mostly spent wearing pyjamas all day and reading. Books are very important during Christmas in Iceland, and probably the most common Christmas gift in the country. Most people read until the family party (mentioned above) starts. That’s because,

in Iceland, Christmas starts on Christmas Eve. At precisely 18:00, families all around the country either sit down to a Christmas feast, followed by opening presents and vowing never to eat again or sit down in church followed by the aforementioned activities.

… at precisely 18:00

Why 18:00 you might ask? The answer most Icelandic people will give is that it’s when the church clock starts chiming and the mass begins on the radio. Maybe people believe that’s the time Jesus was born, or “because my mom says so,” but it actually is a bit more complicated than that. Following a tradition inherited from Judaism, the Christian liturgical day starts at sunset, not at midnight. Since the invention of the clock, they settled the exact time at 18:00. This means technically, 18:00 on Christmas Eve marks the beginning of Christmas Day.

Þorláksmessa

Do it right

December 23 is the last day before Christmas in Iceland and the stress of getting everything done in time – the presents, the cards, the food, and the decorations – is beginning to get to people. It’s not all bad though, because mixed in with the stress and anxiety is a Christmassy sense of joy and a healthy dose of commiserating with friends and relatives. You’re all in the same boat!

Skip the malls and head to Laugavegur

While Kringlan and Smáralind, the biggest shopping malls in Reykjavík, have plenty of great stores for most of your shopping needs, you just can’t beat the Christmassy atmosphere of Laugavegur, the main shopping street in the city centre, lined with the colourful little houses Reykjavík is famous for. Plus, the hot chocolate tastes so much better when you come in from the cold.

Commiserate with your fellow shoppers

If you’re not fluent in Icelandic, it might be interesting for you to know that on Þorláksmessa

you only really need to know one sentence to keep up a conversation. Just say “Jæja, ertu búin(n) að öllu?” (“So, have you done everything yet?”). The person you’re talking to will probably get a worried look on their face and start rattling off a list of everything they haven’t, in fact, done yet. All you have to do to keep up your half of the conversation is nod sympathetically every now and then and maybe throw in a cheery Gleðileg jól (Merry Christmas) before leaving.

Go downtown, even if you don’t really need to go shopping!

I may be exaggerating a tiny bit. There are people, or so I’ve heard, who have actually finished everything before Þorláksmessa, baked all the cookies, put up all the decorations, and probably finished wrapping all the gifts in October. But even those people come downtown on Þorláksmessa. Some people like to leave one last present unbought and others just take a shamelessly purposeless walk down Laugavegur. It’s the place to be, especially during the evening. So, buy that last present, or just go get a beer or a cup of cocoa, but don’t miss out on the Þorláksmessa experience.

Try some fermented skate

We saved the best for last. You thought this was going to be all nice walks down Laugavegur admiring the Christmas lights and drinking

Christmas beer, didn’t you? Well, think again. An integral part of the Þorláksmessa experience is (I swear this is true) eating the most foul-smelling seafood Iceland has to offer, fermented skate. Fish with a cartilaginous skeleton, such as skate and shark, can be fermented for food because of the high amount of naturally occurring chemicals that preserve the fish but cause it to stink in the process. Sounds appetising, right? If you’re interested, many restaurants in Reykjavík offer a skate buffet on Þorláksmessa (usually serving other fish along with it, in case the skate turns out to be too offensive to your taste buds). Also, rumour has it that the taste is slightly better than the smell.

ONE OF THE FOOD WONDERS OF THE WORLD

ICELANDIC LAMB IS THE FIRST ICELANDIC FOOD PRODUCT TO BE PDO-MARKED Icelandic lamb has acquired the PDO label, the highest level of geographical indication in Europe, placing it in the company of the world's best-known and most sought-after quality products.

THE ICELANDIC YULE LADS

In most countries, one measly Santa Claus is considered quite enough. Icelanders, however, apparently favour quantity over quality and have an unruly group of 13 Yule Lads of troll ancestry roaming the mountains. If the Yule Lads ever meet Santa, we’re guessing it’s only because he’s asking them nicely to please keep it down, as he and Mrs Claus are early risers – and incidentally, do they happen to know anything about the mysterious disappearance of all of Mrs Claus’ sausages?

Naughty or nice?

The first record of our Yule Lads dates back to the 17th century, although the tales have changed a lot since then. The 13 troll sons of giantess Grýla and Leppalúði, Grýla’s third husband, were originally scary figures. According to the stories, they live with their parents somewhere in the mountains outside of town, along with the Christmas Cat. Sounds cosy, right? Well, it isn’t. The Christmas Cat eats children who don’t get new clothes for Christmas, while Grýla prefers to snack on naughty kids. The Yule Lads have a less infanticidal reputation, limiting themselves to pranks and petty thievery. They’ve mellowed a lot through the years, and hardly steal anything really valuable these days.

picked up the habit of giving small children gifts as soon as they arrived in town. The last 13 days before Christmas, children leave a single shoe on the windowsill in their room before going to bed and wake up to a little trinket from one of the lads. If they’ve been good, that is. Otherwise, they just get a potato. So, the next time you wake up to a bearded and roughlooking gentleman going through your shoes, just go back to sleep, he’s probably bringing you a present.

The names speak for themselves

The Yule Lads are pranksters, but they don’t go in for just any old trick. They’ve specialised, which is reflected in their names. The names are very descriptive and refer to their individual mischievous nature, which is further detailed in a popular 1932 poem by poet Jóhannes úr Kötlum. For instance, Þvörusleikir translates as Spoon-Licker; Hurðaskellir means Door-Slammer; Gáttaþefur is DoorwaySniffer in English, and we also have, and this is no joke, Gluggagægir, which translates to WindowPeeper. If it makes you feel better, he’s only trying to locate laufabrauð he can steal.

Introducing the Yule Lads

Illustrations by Elín Elísabet Einarsdóttir

The Icelandic Yule Lads are the 13 sons of Grýla (the folklore is not clear on their paternity, as Leppalúði is her third husband). In Iceland of yore, the Yule Lads were an incredible nuisance and brought grief to the general populace, stealing food and pranking people. Today, however, they’ve transformed into the kinder, gentler fellows who leave gifts in the shoes of obedient children.

STEKKJASTAUR

SHEEP-COTE CLOD / DEC. 12

Due to his affinity for sheep milk, Stekkjastaur spends most of his time among humans, breaking into the sheep pens and trying to suckle the ewes. Despite his disability – he has two peg legs, which makes crawling into the sheep pens challenging – he is amazingly resilient in his efforts.

GILJAGAUR

GULLY GAWK / DEC. 13

Another fan of dairy products, Giljagaur is a bit more patient, a bit more cunning, in his attempts at pilfering milk. He doesn’t try to go straight to the cow’s udders: rather, he waits until the farm workers are distracted before swooping in and slurping the froth from the fresh milk.

STÚFUR

STUB / DEC. 14

Stúfur is named for his height – or lack thereof. For some reason, he considers burnt bits of food that get stuck to the pan a special delicacy, going so far as to raid kitchens for dirty pans to get his hands on the good stuff.

ÞVÖRUSLEIKIR

SPOON LICKER / DEC. 15

Þvörusleikir is extremely tall and skinny, which may

explain his passion for wooden spoons (he’s trying to bulk up). Patiently waiting for the work to be finished in the kitchen, Þvörusleikir, quick as a flash, grabs the dirty spoons and licks them clean.

POTTASKEFILL

POT LICKER / DEC. 16

Like Stúfur, this Yule Lad also likes to lick remains from the inside of the pots. His crimes are simple but crafty; he knocks on the door, and when residents rush to see who it is, he sneaks into the kitchen and cleans out the pots.

ASKASLEIKIR

BOWL LICKER / DEC. 17

In the old days, Icelanders ate their food from lidded wooden bowls called askar. Askasleikir would creep in, hide, and snatch the askar whenever they were put aside, licking their insides clean. Since most people have upgraded to plates, he probably has, too, while keeping his name for old times’ sake.

HURÐASKELLIR

DOOR SLAMMER / DEC. 18

Waking up is never pleasant. Being woken by a loud noise, such as a door slamming –even less so. For some reason, Hurðaskellir thinks this is hilarious and goes through town slamming doors for his own amusement.

SKYRGÁMUR

SKYR GOBBLER / DEC 19

For the uninitiated, skyr (pron. skeer) is a dairy product, halfway between cheese and yoghurt. It’s fat-free, high in protein, and delicious. This might explain Skyrgámur’s size (he’s said to be the size of a bull) and his habit of eating other people’s skyr.

BJÚGNAKRÆKIR

SAUSAGE SWIPER /DEC 20

While many of the Yule Lads like stealing food, they’re usually picky about what they take. Bjúga is a salty, smoked Icelandic sausage, and a favourite of Bjúgnakrækir. He loves them so much that he doesn’t mind crawling through soot and smoke to get them.

GLUGGAGÆGIR

WINDOW PEEPER / DEC 21

Again, the name really says it all. However, it’s important to note that his intentions, although not honourable, are mostly food-related. He only peeps in windows in order to locate food he could possibly steal.

GÁTTAÞEFUR

DOOR SNIFFER / DEC 22

Gáttaþefur was from birth blessed with a huge nose, heightened olfactory senses, as well as the ability to never catch a cold. He is, as so many other Icelanders, partial to laufabrauð and uses his abnormally large nose to sniff out its hiding places.

KETKRÓKUR

MEAT HOOK / DEC 23

It’s obvious that some of the Yule Lads are more industrious and cleverer than others. Ketkrókur, for example, travels around with a long stick with a hook at the end, perfect for sticking it down chimneys in order to steal meat, preferably hangikjöt (smoked lamb).

KERTASNÍKIR

CANDLE BEGGAR / DEC 24

One of the few Yule Lads not constantly occupied with food, Kertasníkir instead enjoys stealing candles, preferably from children. This seems especially mean when you know that in the old days every kid usually got a nice candle for Christmas and sometimes not much else.

GRÝLA

Grýla is an Icelandic troll who likes the flesh of naughty children. She lives in a cave and keeps a pot of boiling water at the ready, just in case she gets wind of exceptionally disobedient children. Grýla also carries a large sack to carry around the children she catches. It should be noted that Icelandic trolls are different from Norwegian ones and are nothing like internet trolls either. They are large, almost mountain-like.

LEPPALÚÐI

Grýla’s third husband possesses few defining characteristics despite extreme laziness. He doesn’t get out much. Unlike the rest of his family, he just sits around the cave waiting for Grýla to bring him food. His name has become synonymous with being extremely ugly and/or poorly dressed.

CHRISTMAS CAT

The phrase “Christmas cat” might conjure a cosy image – but don’t be fooled. The Christmas Cat is actually the sinister sidekick of the ghastly child-eating Grýla. The Christmas Cat lives with Grýla and her slothful husband in their cave. According to legend, local children who don’t receive a new item of clothing for Christmas end up in Christmas cat’s belly. This makes absolutely no sense at all, but, hey, it’s a convenient excuse to go shopping.

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Laxnes Special

A trek on the hardy, sure-footed Icelandic horse is an experience to remember. Whether you are a beginner or expert, old or young, these friendly horses, with their alert and willing nature are indeed a pleasure to ride in their natural surroundings.

Laxnes Private Tour

The private tour is a variation of our Laxnes Special tour and will have daily departures by summer 2023. You´ll be able to tailor your tour time to up to two hours and enjoy the farm surroundings at your own pace.

Laxnes Combo Tours

Combine our Laxnes Special tour with a variety of different activities in one booking for a full day of adventure. Puffin or Whale watching or the Golden Circle combinations with our riding tours are just a click away on our site.

THE FESTIVAL

Food is a significant part of Christmas celebrations all over the world and Iceland is no exception. Every country has its own tradition and while trends and fashions can influence what families eat each year, there are some foodstuffs that just have to be a part of the experience or Christmas is ruined!

MANDARIN ORANGES

A few weeks before Christmas, cases of these juicy and sweet mini oranges arrive in stores. Although mandarins are sold all year round, the fresh harvest coming into stores in November and December has the best-tasting fruit. While mandarins are the current Christmas fruit, they’ve only recently replaced apples as the holiday fruit of choice. They’re available all year today but older Icelanders still remember a time when apples were only imported around Christmas time.

CHRISTMAS COOKIES

As if Christmas can be celebrated without pepper cakes ( piparkökur)? We, uh, mean gingerbread cookies (or a close-enough relation)! Pepper cakes is just a literal translation of their Icelandic name, even though they usually contain little to no pepper. Store-bought or homemade, they’re always fun to decorate with colourful frosting. Other popular Christmas cookies include buttery vanilla wreaths, light and crunchy cocoa cookies called loftkökur (air cakes), and “mom’s cookies,” ginger cookies sandwiched together with buttercream. There used to be a time when the excellence of a homemaker was judged by the number of different types of cookies she made for Christmas. Anything less than seven was a sign of inadequacy. Thankfully, we’re past that now. For some people at least.

LEAF BREAD

Some traditions make more sense than others. Eating delicious cookies around Christmas time? Perfectly normal. Going to a Christmas buffet with your office mates? Fun and delicious. Spending a whole day with several other people carving delicate patterns in thin and fragile flour cakes which are then deep-fried in boiling fat, and served with butter come Christmas Eve? Labour-intensive to the point of insanity. Laufabrauð, or leaf bread, is very thin, pretty, and subtly delicious. Today, you can get them from the store, but many people still like to get together with family or friends and make them the old-fashioned way.

SMOKED LAMB

The traditional Icelandic Christmas dish at the start of the last century was hangikjöt. Directly translating

to hanging meat, hangikjöt is simply smoked lamb and today, most people serve it on Christmas Day. The salty delicacy is usually boiled and served with potatoes, a white sauce similar to béchamel, and red cabbage from a jar. Canned peas are also popular.

MALT & APPELSÍN

Visit the Lava Centre

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Learn more about the activity near Grindavík and the Blue Lagoon at Lava Centre

The Icelandic Christmas Calendar

FIRST SUNDAY OF ADVENT

December 1

The first Sunday of the Advent season is conveniently called Advent Sunday. In Western Christianity, Advent starts the liturgical year. The holiday is religious in nature, with Churches celebrating the birth of Jesus and the preparation for his second coming. Advent also meant a Christmas fast to some churches. These days in Iceland, Advent mostly signifies the beginning of the Christmas season. And far from fasting, it rings in a time of sweets and feasts, lights, Christmas trees, presents, and spending time with loved ones.

FIRST VISIT FROM THE YULE LADS

December 12

Instead of one Santa Claus that brings gifts on one night, Icelanders have to put up with 13 mischievous Yule Lads who might bring a small gift or a potato (if you’ve been naughty). But more than likely, they are going to cause some havoc. The first Yule Lad, Stekkjastaur (Sheep Cote-Clod), arrives on December 12 and sneaks around the farms,

bothering the sheep. This is actually pretty difficult due to his two peg legs. Regardless of what he might be doing to the sheep, leave your shoe on the windowsill and Stekkjastaur - and his brothers that will visit over the following 12 nights - might leave you a little something.

ÞORLÁKSMESSA

(St. Thorlakur’s Day)

December 23

Þorláksmessa is the day of Iceland’s patron saint, St Þorlákur. It’s the last day before Christmas that is celebrated, so for most people, this is the height of Christmas preparation. It’s the biggest shopping day of the year and many people spend the day purchasing their last few Christmas gifts. A peculiar Þorláksmessa custom is eating fermented skate. The skate’s sinus-clearing aroma and funky flavour is an acquired taste, but the idea is that it will make the Christmas feast the next day taste even sweeter.

AÐFANGADAGSKVÖLD

December 24

Second Day of Christmas, it’s not uncommon for locals to duck out early to the party, with many people figuring they’ve already spent quite enough time with their families.

(Christmas Eve)

Christmas Eve is the most important night of the Christmas celebration in Iceland. Christmas officially begins at 6pm sharp, and by that time most Icelanders have washed, have dressed in their best clothes (new clothes, ideally, to fend off the Christmas Cat), and are ready to sit down to Christmas dinner. Christmas Eve is a very intimate, festive evening that Icelanders normally spend only with their nearest and dearest. After dinner, people relocate to the living room to open presents by the Christmas tree.

JÓLADAGUR (Christmas Day)

December 25

As the main feast is already over by the time Christmas Day rolls around, most people spend the day lazing around, reading the new books they received for Christmas, or visiting the graves of loved ones. December 25 is also a day for Christmas parties when people get together with their extended families, eat hangikjöt (smoked lamb) and laufabrauð (leaf bread) and celebrate Christmas together.

ANNAR Í JÓLUM (Second Day of Christmas)

December 26

The day after Christmas Day is a public holiday in Iceland. Referred to as the Second Day of Christmas. it’s pretty much the same as Christmas Day. This time, however, Christmas is commonly celebrated with the other side of the family. On the

GAMLÁRSDAGUR

(New Year’s Eve)

December 31

New Year’s Eve is a major event on the Icelandic social calendar. The fun often begins around 18:00 with a big festive dinner, followed by a bonfire (or brenna), where the Icelanders mingle and socialise. At 22:30, it is time for the eagerly awaited Áramótaskaup (New Year’s Jest) – a 50-minute long comedy special on TV. More than 90% of the Icelandic nation watches Áramótaskaupið, which means that the streets are virtually deserted. The New Year’s madness begins to build as soon as the credits roll. At midnight, all hell breaks loose. In Iceland, fireworks are sold unrestricted to the public between Christmas and New Year’s. This nation of only 385,000 people manages to ignite over 500 tonnes of fireworks on New Year’s Eve.

ÞRETTÁNDINN (Twelfth Night)

January 6

If you didn’t quench your thirst for arson and explosions on New Year’s Eve, don’t worry, there’s always Þrettándinn (Twelfth Night). There’s a lot of superstition regarding Þrettándinn. The last Yule Lad heads back to the mountains, the elves and the hidden people move houses (keep your lights on the whole night so they don’t settle in one of your dark corners), cows speak, and seals shed their skin to walk on land as men. There’s usually a bonfire where people can finish off the last of their fireworks and the kids get a visit from the elf king and queen.

This

HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA

What does it look like?

It looks like a giant white …finger. Yes. Finger. The Hallgrímskirkja church is probably the best-known landmark in Reykjavík, along with Perlan. It’s the last work of architect Guðjón Samúelsson, one of the most prolific architects of Iceland. His work usually drew inspiration from Icelandic nature in some way and Hallgrímskirkja is no exception, conjuring the mountains and glaciers of Iceland along with the iconic columnar igneous rock. Guðjón started sketching the church in 1937 and they started building it in 1945. It wasn’t completely finished until 1986, although parts of the church had been ready for a long time at that point, even consecrated so the unfinished church could be put to use.

Why is there a Viking statue in front of the church? It’s thanks to the Americans, actually. They gave us the statue to commemorate the thousand-year anniversary of Iceland’s parliament, Alþingi. The statue is a likeness of Leifur Eiríksson, or Leif the

lucky, the Norse Viking that is rumoured to have been to America centuries before Christopher Columbus. It might seem strange to place a Viking statue in front of a church, but actually, it was the other way around. The statue got there in 1932, but they didn’t start building the church until 1945. Another thing about the location of the statue, it is in the heart of Reykjavík today, in front of Reykjavík’s most famous landmark, but in 1932, the churchless hill was on the outskirts of Reykjavík, most of the town’s inhabitants lived down by the pond.

How do I get to the top of the tower?

You take the elevator! For a small fee, you’ll be rewarded with a view to die for. Hallgrímskirkja is the second tallest building in Reykjavík and seeing the rows of the multi-coloured houses in the centre all laid out neatly like doll’s houses, and further away, the bright blue sea and mount Esja, is really something you shouldn’t miss.

GO SWIMMING!

Whether you visit a thermal pool in Reykjavík, a luxurious spa, or a natural pool in the countryside, swimming in Iceland is a unique experience. Nothing beats relaxing in warm water while breathing in fresh cold air.

Vesturbæjarlaug

BEST KID-FRIENDLY POOL

Swimming pools are one of the most kid-friendly activities you can find in Iceland, so the short answer is – all of them! To be more specific, the centrally located Sundhöll has a great outdoor area, and so does Vesturbæjarlaug, but Árbæjarlaug is a hidden gem, a perfect stop if you’re going out of town anyway, and pairs well with a visit to the Árbær Open Air Museum.

BEST POOL TO CHAT WITH LOCALS

Locals love going to the pool, and chilling in a hot tub is a good way to connect to Icelanders. Often, Icelanders meet in the pool and use this time to chat and catch up on the latest developments. Good options for hanging out with locals are Vesturbæjarlaug, Seltjarnarneslaug, and Árbæjarlaug pools.

BEST POOL FOR SERIOUS SWIMMERS

Laugardalslaug is Reykjavík’s biggest pool and the best one for a long swim. It’s an Olympic-size swimming pool, used for recreational swimming,

Laugardalslaug

exercise, and competitions. The big indoor pool is also used for training and competitions. Laugardalslaug also offers plenty of hot tubs, cold tubs, and steam baths for relaxation after a healthy swim, and to top it off, a fitness centre and spa are located next to the pool.

BEST POOL FOR A DAY TRIP

Basically every town in Iceland has its own pool. Almost all of them are beautifully located next to mountains and overlooking fjords and the ocean. If you plan to make a day tour out of your pool visit, head to the Westman Islands and visit Sundhöllin Vestmannaeyjar on Heimaey island. The ferry ride out to the island is an adventure, and there is a great indoor pool, a large outside pool with hot tubs, and cool waterslides.

BEST LUXURY SPA

In need of pampering? You’ve heard of the Blue Lagoon with its milky blue waters and mud masks, but did you know a brand-new spa opened just 10 minutes by car from downtown Reykjavík?

Located at the edge of the bay of Kópavogur, the pool offers amazing coastal views. Sky Lagoon boasts a modern approach to traditional Icelandic swimming culture, making it the perfect spot to relax, enjoy a drink, socialise, and soak in the sun.