Grape & Wine Magazine - January 2024 by JCS Marketing, Inc.

Eye in the Sky

Masters of the Vineyard

Wine and Food Pairings Can Be a Complex Art

January 2024

Volume 2: Issue 1

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & INDUSTRY SUPPORT

EYE IN THE SKY

MASTERS OF THE VINEYARD

WINE AND FOOD PAIRINGS CAN BE A COMPLEX ART

ROOTSTOCK RESEARCH REACHES FOR DROUGHT RESISTANCE

CERTIFIED ORGANIC VINEYARDS

SUSTAINABLE STORY SERIES: PART 3

PEAK VINEYARD 24 INDIAN IS COUPLE’S SELF-MADE DREAM-COME-TRUE

Vicky Boyd Contributing Writer

Cecilia Parsons Associate Editor

Whitney Brownie Vineyard Team

Steve Pastis Contributing Writer

Julie R. Johnson, Contributing Writer

Pam Strayer Contributing Writer

Catherine Merlo Contributing Writer

UC COOPERATIVE EXTENSION ADVISORY BOARD

Surendra Dara Director, North Willamette Research and Extension Center Kevin Day UCCE Pomology Farm Advisor, Tulare and Kings Counties Elizabeth Fichtner UCCE Farm Advisor, Kings and Tulare Counties

Steven Koike Tri-Cal Diagnostics Jhalendra Rijal UCCE Integrated Pest Management Advisor, Stanislaus County Mohammad Yaghmour UCCE Area Orchard Systems Advisor, Kern County

Katherine Jarvis-Shean UCCE Orchard Systems Advisor, Sacramento, Solano and Yolo Counties

The articles, research, industry updates, company profiles, and advertisements in this publication are the professional opinions of writers and advertisers. Progressive Crop Consultant does not assume any responsibility for the opinions given in the publication.

January 2023

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This King Air B200 aircraft flew over California vineyards imaging them with an AVIRIS instrument from NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory (photo courtesy K. Gold.)

Eye in the Sky

High-tech NASA imaging holds promise to identify virus-infected grapevines before they show symptoms. By VICKY BOYD | Contributing Writer

group of researchers have tapped NASA Jet Propulsion Laboratory’s hyperspectral imaging equipment and machine learning expertise to see if they can detect virus-infected grapevines before they exhibit visible symptoms. Although similar technology has been used to identify bacterial and fungal infections in asymptomatic plants and trees, it had not been used to detect viruses in asymptomatic vines until now, said Katie Gold, an assistant professor of grape plant pathology with Cornell University’s AgriTech in Geneva, N.Y. She is leading a Cornell research group collaborating with the Jet Propulsion Lab. The theory is that by identifying asymptomatic grapevines infected with grapevine leafroll-associated virus complex 3,

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growers would be able to remove them earlier in the disease cycle. GLRaV-3 has a latent period of about 12 months, and often times more, depending on the variety, where vines are infected but don’t express symptoms. The longer infected vines remain in a vineyard, the greater the potential for them to spread GLRaV-3 to nearby plants. Based on two years of work with 300 acres of grapevines in the Lodi production area, Gold said they were able to identify asymptomatic red varieties with 87% accuracy. Although she said they were “very pleased” with the results, she also pointed out it wasn’t perfect. For example, the machine learning

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model at times misidentified vines affected by the drought or other abiotic stressors mostly along vineyard edges. “What we will work on is maintaining accuracy but reducing misclassification,” Gold said. “This is the low-hanging fruit, and we know we can improve our methods because we can improve our corrections.” She also said she doesn’t see remote sensing technology replacing the need for PCAs and crop scouting but instead helping them be more efficient.

A Promising Tool

Charlie Starr IV, a Lodi-area PCA who was part of the research project, said

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Continued from Page 4 while hyperspectral imaging holds promise, it still has several unanswered questions. He has been working with a vineyard client for several years to try to reduce the number of GLRaV-3-infected vines in a young vineyard by rouging. Unlike some areas of the state where grapevine red blotch disease is the predominant virus, Starr said GLRaV-3 is the leading one in the Lodi area.

A drone captured a grateful message written among grapevines by collaborators in the hyperspectral imaging research in the Lodi region (photo by Aaron Lange, courtesy Lodi Winegrape Commission.)

Mealybug, which are endemic to the region, are the main GLRaV-3 vectors. Since it would be nearly impossible to try to eradicate mealybugs, he said they are focusing on eliminating infected vines. “We know we can’t eliminate the vector, so that only leaves one other option: Try to get rid of the virus,” Starr said. But that doesn’t mean they ignore mealybug. He and his client have taken an integrated approach that uses insecticides as well as mating disruption to bring pest numbers down as low as possible. “It’s correct that we know we will not eradicate the mealybug. However, if we let the populations build, we’re only allowing more bugs to vector the virus quicker,” Starr said. That’s where he said a neighborhood mealybug effort that enlists nearby growers is important since the pest can move and be transported between vineyards. Depending on the season and other environmental factors, GLRaV-3-infected red varieties near harvest typically express visual symptoms compared with white varieties, which usually don’t. Over the years, the client’s scouting crew has become skilled at identifying red varieties infected with the virus. But white varieties typically go unscouted because of a lack of visual symptoms. “If we can refine [the technology] to where we can actually identify viruses 6

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Image A (left) shows the full extent of the AVIRIS-NG flights in 2020 over vineyards. Image B (right) zooms in on the the flight lines that collected hyperspectral imaging over Lodi-area vineyards (photo courtesy NASA/Cornell).

in white and in red varieties, but more importantly in white varieties, that will be a game changer for us to get an upper hand on viruses,” Starr said. He and his vineyard client’s efforts took on new urgency with the advent of sudden vine collapse several years ago. UC researchers conducted PCR testing of affected vines to try to solve the mystery in 2019 at the request of the Lodi Winegrape Commission. They identified co-infections of leafroll virus and grape vitiviruses and believed the combination was responsible for what has been dubbed “sudden vine collapse.” Certain rootstocks like Freedom also appear more sensitive. And like leafroll virus, grape vitiviruses can be vectored

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by mealybugs and scale insects.

Remote Sensing 101

At the basic level, remote sensing involves measuring how much light, or electromagnetic radiation, an object or area reflects or absorbs. This is known as its spectral signature. The electromagnetic spectrum includes all the kinds of light, both visible to the human eye and the larger portion that is not visible. Our eyes can only see the visible portion (red, green and blue). Healthy vegetation typically appears green because it absorbs more blue and red light and reflects more green. But vegetation reflects even more light

to differentiate slight nuances in each of millions of pixels that make up the image. The computer program “learns” the spectral signature of uninfected, asymptomatic and symptomatic vines.

Plant pathologist Katie Gold, an assistant professor at Cornell University, inspects diseased grapes in a field. Gold’s team used a JPL-developed instrument to detect infected crops from the air in one of California’s most important winegrape-producing regions (photo by Allison Usavage.)

in specific near-infrared channels. As a result, many growers and consultants have begun flying off-the-shelf drones equipped with near-infrared sensors to measure light reflectance and plant health. By imaging an area and creating a map, they can identify stressors including diseases symptoms that may not be visible just by walking a crop. Gold and her group have taken that concept to an entirely new level and are using hyperspectral imaging to assess grapevine health. Any digital image, whether viewed on a cellphone or high-powered computer, is made up of pixels, the smallest unit in a digital display. Instead of assigning just red, green or blue to each pixel, hyperspectral imaging analyzes a wide spectrum of light. It also breaks down the light striking each pixel into several different spectral bands, providing significantly more information about what was imaged. Specifically, Gold and her group are using NASA’s Airborne Visible and Infrared Imaging Spectrometer Next Generation, or AVIRIS-NG. Driving their work is the assumption that diseases affect plant chemistry and physiology, and this would change molecular composition. That in turn may change how cells react to light waves.

Imaging Vineyards by Plane

The imaging was done with a specially equipped twin-engine plane flying about 1,000 meters or about 3,280 feet

above the vineyard floor. About 11,000 acres total were captured in 2020 and 2021 just before harvest when disease symptoms are the most pronounced. But collecting the images was just part of the project. In the Lodi area, the Cornell researchers collaborated with Stephanie Bolton of the Lodi Winegrape Commission, its grower members and local PCAs including Starr. Shortly after the 2020 flight, specially trained scouts scoured 300 acres of the vineyards to visually identify symptomatic vines. They also collected samples from 100 vines in 2020 for GLRaV-3 laboratory testing to verify diseased and non-diseased vines. Testing the entire vineyard would be too labor-intensive and expensive since each lab test typically costs between $40 and $100 each. All the samples the scouts identified as diseased tested positive, and those identified as non-diseased tested negative. The diseased vines were removed that winter, and the vineyards were again scouted just before harvest in 2021 and sampled from 10 vines. As a result of the latent period, the researchers went back to the 2020 images and geotagged those vines that were symptomatic in 2021 as asymptomatic in 2020. Researchers turned to machine learning

By rerunning the 2020 images that were geotagged as asymptomatic vines, they “taught” the computer model how to identify vines with early infections using spectral signatures. And each time data was run through the computer model, the accuracy of the results improved. The best performing models had 87% accuracy differentiating between noninfected and asymptomatic vines, suggesting the importance of nonvisible wavelengths in detecting disease-inducted changes to plant physiology.

A Few Caveats

Calling the Lodi research a case study, Gold said they also want to test the hyperspectral imaging on varieties other than cabernet sauvignon, which was used in their subset. That’s because white varieties like chardonnay exhibit few symptoms when infected with GLRaV-3. In addition, some hybrids have better tolerances to higher viral loads, which could affect their biological responses. Geography along with soil type, cultural practices and climate likely play a role in remote sensing applications too. This research was conducted only in the Northern San Joaquin Valley, but Gold said she’d like to expand it to other production regions within the state as well as elsewhere in the United States Based on what she’s seen so far, Gold said the technology also has the potential to be used to diagnose other viral diseases in asymptomatic vines, although they’re not there yet. She said the results lay a foundation for using NASA’s upcoming hyperspectral satellite mission, dubbed Surface Biology and Geology, to monitor regional diseases of grapevines and other crops. Comments about this article? We want to hear from you. Feel free to email us at article@jcsmarketinginc.com

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MASTERS OF THE VINEYARD

Sonoma-based Sangiacomo Family Vineyards, CAWG’s Grower of the Year, puts its viticultural expertise to work for dozens of wineries. All Sangiacomo vineyards have received 100% sustainable certification from the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance (photo by Brennan Spark.)

By CATHERINE MERLO | Contributing Writer

he winegrape harvest has been finished for a week when brothers Steve and Mike Sangiacomo meet in their Sonoma office to catch up on some overdue indoor business.

Outside, the vineyards are quiet, their leaves turning to shades of gold and burgundy. There’s a sense of relief in the air on this November morning, and it’s not coming only from the fields.

The family’s goal is to maintain winegrape quality while farming more efficiently, says Mike Sangiacomo (photo courtesy Sangiacomo Family Vineyards.)

“It was a successful harvest that definite- “It’s shaping up to be an exceptional ly tested the resiliency of us as growers,” vintage,” Steve added. said Steve. “It even tested the resiliency of the grapes themselves. It was one of That’s good news for the Sangiacomos our longest growing seasons since 2005.” and for the 90 wineries who source their grapes from this third-generation Multiple rain events and unusually cool farming operation. For more than 50 temperatures threatened the crop early years, Sangiacomo Family Vineyards on. But things began turning around has been growing premium Chardonafter heat spikes in September and Ocnay and Pinot Noir grapes for winery tober enhanced ripeness and bolstered partners. Today, the Sangiacomos farm grape quality. 1,600 acres across 15 vineyards in the Carneros, Petaluma Gap, Sonoma Coast and Napa Valley regions. Their vineyard expertise in one of the world’s premier wine areas has earned them a long list of loyal customers and a litany of industry awards. “To put it simply, they are one of the best growers of Chardonnay in the world and a pleasure to work with,” said Richie Allen, senior director of winemaking for Rombauer Vineyards in St. Helena, in nearby Napa Valley.

Dozens of customers’ wines line the foyer wall in the Sangiacomos’ Sonoma office (photo by C. Merlo.)

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January 2024

He’s not alone in his estimation of the Sangiacomo operation. In 2020, the Sonoma County Farm Bureau honored the family with the Luther Burbank Conservation Award for balancing economic viability with environmental stewardship. In 2019, the Sonoma County Harvest Fair presented the Sangiacomos with its Sustainable Farmers Award.

Siblings Steve Sangiacomo (left), Mia Pucci and Mike Sangiacomo are the third generation to lead the family’s Sonoma-based farming operation (photo by Brennan Spark.) The 2023 growing season “definitely tested the resiliency of us as growers,” says Steve Sangiacomo (photo courtesy Sangiacomo Family Vineyards.)

Most recently, the California Association of Winegrape Growers (CAWG) named Sangiacomo Family Vineyards its 2024 Grower of the Year. In announcing the award, CAWG paid tribute to the Sangiacomos’ “pioneering spirit, commitment to sustainable practices, innovation and community engagement.”

Family Roots

The Sangiacomos’ success didn’t happen overnight. The family has been farming in Sonoma County since 1927 when Italian-born Vittorio Sangiacomo purchased a 52-acre fruit-tree ranch just 2.5 miles from Sonoma’s historic city square. For years, the family grew pears on its home ranch. Vittorio may not have been thinking of viticulture back then, but he had chosen land perfect for what his grandsons call “amazing vineyard sites.” In 1969, the Sangiacomos planted their first vineyard. By the 1980s, the conversion from orchards to vineyards was complete. Over time, the family expanded its acreage. Today, Vittorio’s grandchildren, Mike, Steve and their sister Mia Pucci, lead the operation, helped by other family members and 120 employees.

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An overview of the Sangiacomos’ home ranch near Sonoma. The large building at lower right houses their offices and wine tasting space (photo courtesy Sangiacomo Family Vineyards.)

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Viticultural Area. A recent wine tasting on the “Home Ranch Terrace” featured the Sangiacomo 2021 Sonoma Coast In 2016, the Sangiacomos took on Chardonnay, which earned a 93-point, winemaking, launching their own estate or “excellent,” score and an Editors’ brand. The label bears the “Sangiacomo Choice recognition from Wine Enthusiast Wines” name on its bottles of Pinot Noir, magazine. Chardonnay and Cabernet. Five years later, they began offering wine tasting Yet the addition of winemaking is only and vineyard tours on the home ranch, a small part of the family’s business, now part of the Carneros American amounting to about 4,000 cases a year, or just 2% of the fruit they grow. The rest of their winegrapes are custom grown for wineries whose annual volumes range from a thousand to hundreds of thousands of cases. The Sangiacomos work collaboratively with their clients, discussing varietals, clones, farming practices and appellations. Together they then select a match from over 300 small vineyard blocks. The Sangiacomos’ pride in their winery partners shines in the foyer of their Sonoma office, where a wall lined with dozens of their customers’ wine bottles dominates the room.

Staying Ahead of Challenges

As custom farmers, it makes sense for the Sangiacomos to have a broad customer base to minimize their farming risks. And there are plenty of those. This sign welcomes visitors to the Sangiacomo headquarters, located in the Carneros AVA near Sonoma (photo by C. Merlo.)

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“You can do everything right in the vineyard, but Mother Nature can come in and take your suc-

January 2024

cess away in one vintage,” said Mike. Like other grape growers, the Sangiacomos wrestle with weather and climate change, emerging plant viruses, labor shortages, water uncertainty, increasing regulations, energy needs, rising input costs, shifting market conditions and the lingering impacts of the pandemic. “In our dad’s, uncles’, aunts’ and grandparents’ age, it was really more about just producing the best quality product you could,” said Mike. “Today, the challenge is continuing to evolve and stay ahead of all the issues.” Added Steve: “We feel the responsibility to deliver a premium product. If we do not, a lot of these wineries are not going to have wine to sell, which is going to affect their businesses along with ours. So, we’re going to do everything we can to achieve that.” As a result, the Sangiacomos have made sustainable winegrape growing a priority. In 2015, all Sangiacomo vineyards received 100% sustainable certification from the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance. That year, too, the family’s vineyards were also certified under the Fish Friendly Farming program for land management practices that protect fish habitat. Among their vineyard sustainability practices, the Sangiacomos have adopted water conservation, soil management and erosion control (e.g., planting cover crops and riparian strips).

Increasingly, the Sangiacomos also are seeking ways to use less energy, and they’re going electric where they can. They’re already using electric pressure washers, for example, and next year, one of their vineyards will use an electric tractor for the first time. They also plan to expand the use of solar panels for additional electric power. They’re investing in mechanized weed management for vineyard floors and canopies. But this farming family relies on other strengths too. The brothers cite the family’s longevity, consistency and work ethic, handed down from what Steve called “an amazing example” set by previous Sangiacomo generations. The business also cultivates “a trust element” with its winery partners that also began with past family members, “who built our business on integrity and fairness,” Steve said.

A postharvest view from the new “Home Ranch Terrace,” where the Sangiacomos offer wine tasting as part of their recent foray into winemaking (photo by C. Merlo.)

The brothers maintain confidence that demand for good quality wine will continue to grow, even as certain consumer demand categories trend downward. “I’m optimistic,” Steve said. “Consumers want authenticity. They want to know where their food comes from. We believe if you take care of the land, it will take care of you.” Looking ahead, the Sangiacomos will continue to grow their vineyard brand and their own wine brand simultaneously. They plan to remain in farming and to successfully transition the next generation into the family business. And they want to continue learning even more about winegrapes and making wine. They’re eyeing their grandfather’s homeland, where grapes and wine have gone hand in hand for more than 4,000 years. “It’s on our list to go back to Italy, not as a vacation, but like a business reconnaissance mission, to learn more about winegrape growing from them,” Mike said. “It’s long overdue.” Comments about this article? We want to hear from you. Feel free to email us at article@jcsmarketinginc.com

Brothers Steve (left) and Mike Sangiacomo check just-picked fruit during the recent harvest (photo by Brennan Spark.)

Comments about this article? We want to hear from you. Feel free to email us at article@jcsmarketinginc.com A recent offering during a tasting at the family’s Home Ranch Terrace (photo by C. Merlo.)

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WINE AND FOOD PAIRINGS CAN BE A COMPLEX ART By STEVE PASTIS | Contributing Writer

rules,” said William Allen, owner and winemaker at Two Shepherds, who provided an example. “Try to avoid completely opposite wine pairings. Generally, if you’re matching wines with acidity, you typically want to pair them with foods that have acidity. “One of the things in pairing that is often very difficult is spicy foods,” he said. “Most wines will clash with spicy foods. That’s why a lot of people drink beer with spicy food. Big bold fruity wines don’t work because you’re clashing fruitiness with spiciness.”

Seafood Pairings

“Penfolds BIN 311 Chardonnay has vibrant citrus fruits and pronounced minerality,” said Ellie Farrell, public relations manager at Treasury Wine Estates, which has more than 40 wine brands including Beringer Vineyards. “For the same reason, we love a squeeze of lemon on crab legs, shrimp and oysters. The crisp citrus flavors are the perfect foil for briny shellfish.”

Martha Stoumen’s Negroamaro Rosato goes well with salami and cheeses (photo by Andrew Thomas Lee.)

onventional wisdom will tell you beef goes best with red wine, and white wine is best with fish. The truth, however, is pairing the right wine with your meals, desserts and cheeses is much more complex.

“In my experience of preparing food to be enjoyed with wine, I’ve learned that it’s not about finding the ‘perfect pairing,’” said Sarah Scott, executive winery chef at Opus One Winery. “These can be elusive. Rather, it’s about consistently cooking with excellent, seasonal products and mindfully balancing the umami, salt and acid ingredients within each dish. This allows the wine to taste as the winemaker intended.”

“Some of our lighter reds like our pinot meunier go great with salmon,” said Allen. “But we’re not talking about white steak fish. We also have the vermentino that would definitely pair with summer foods, summer salads, oysters for sure and other kinds of seafood.” But pairing wine with seafood can be a challenge. “It depends on your seafood,” said Allen. “What’s the sauce on it? Is it a cream sauce? Is it just grilled with nothing on it? You can take a fish dish and make it completely different depending on how you’re preparing it.”

Meat and Pasta Pairings

“We often recommend barbecue,” said Gillian Balance, Beringer Bros spokesperson and master sommelier, about food pairings with their cabernet. “Sweet, smoky, tangy sauces really play up the toasty oak characters, while the dark berry fruits and tannins provide the perfect contrast to savory meat platters.”

“We consider body and texture when considering food pairings for our wines,” said Nina Kravetz, head of mar“The Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a keting and direct-to-consumer sales at Martha Stoumen delicious cabernet-driven blend with ample dark fruits,” Wines. “Lush and textural wines like our historic Out to said Farrell. “The well-integrated tannins and fruit-driven the Meadow field blend or aged Negroamaro Rosato keep profile are the drivers of the wine’s versatility, allowing it us craving salty foods with a compelling char. When bright to pair beautifully with any number of dishes, including and brooding wines like carignan and pinot noir are on roasted chicken, grilled beef tenderloin and pasta dishes the table, we lean on more decadent dishes that could use a with meat or mushroom sauce. companion to cut through the fat.” “The spicy, charred flavors from heavily toasted bourbon “When you’re doing food pairings, there are some basic barrels add another dimension to the dark fruits in our 12

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Opus One wine paired with seared Sonoma duck breast with sautéed spinach, cremini mushrooms and a crispy polenta cake (photo courtesy Opus One Winery.)

Martha Stoumen’s Post Flirtation White can be paired with sliced vegetables and dip (photo by Emma K. Morris.)

Beringer Bros Red blend, which pairs well with smoked meats and barbecue,” she added. Roasted lamb chops, duck and Wagyu New York Strip are among the meals that go best with Opus One, according to Christopher Barefoot, vice president of communications and guest relations at Opus One Winery. Overture, the other wine produced by Opus One Winery, pairs best with “risotto with mushrooms, or any pasta with

hearty mushroom sauce and a truffle or two on top,” said Barefoot, who also suggested meats with chimichurri and roasted root vegetables, and “even a grilled burger with sharp cheddar cheese and a medley of summer vegetables like summer squash or summer beans.” Martha Stoumen’s cabernet blends like Another Shore 2021 go well with hearty dishes, those that are fattier and meatier such as sausage and schmaltzy chicken, according to Kravetz,

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they are both cabernet wines.

the temperature of the wine dramatically impacts the flavor of the wine and thus the food pairing as well.

“What you want to avoid is soft rind, creamy cheeses like French bries, and triple cream such as Brillat-Savarin, St. “95% of people drink their red wines André, etc.,” he added. too hot and their white wines too cold. So, you’re completely throwing off the “With so many wines in our portfolio, food pairing because the temperature and the incredibly diverse world of of the bottle characteristics changes. flavors and textures in cheese, I often When your red wine is hot or warm at will recommend a delicious ‘bridge’ 70 degrees [F] on your counter, it’s not wine, something that will work with the proper serving temperature for an almost any cheese,” said Farrell. “A elegant red. You’re going to make the great example is our Etude Pinot Noir alcohol really stand out. from Grace Benoist Estate in Carneros. The wine offers subtle red fruits, “On white wine, most people do the exearthy tones and silky texture, makact opposite. They pull them out of the ing if the perfect backdrop for mild, fridge, which is 38 degrees [F]. If you’re earthy cheeses like tomme, manchego, buying ‘Two Buck Chuck,’ you would gouda and mild cheddars.” never put ice cubes in it and put it in a blender.”

Dessert Pairings

Opus One wine paired with roasted lamb shop with celery root purée and summer vegetables (photo courtesy Opus One Winery.)

Continued from Page 13 adding Honeymoon goes well with continental fare. “Our white Honeymoon blend is also a holiday favorite,” she said. “It’s fun to cook while you drink the wine.”

“Many popular desserts have one or all ‘Be Creative’ of the following: nuts, caramel, butWinemakers are always learning about terscotch, chocolate or dried fruits,” new pairings for their wines. said Farrell. “When describing our Penfolds Club Tawny Port, all these “Don’t stick to the old adages,” said Alflavors are mentioned. There is also len. “That’s a very outdated thing, white enough sweetness to match desserts like wine with fish, or red wine with meat. sticky toffee pudding, crème brulée or There’s a whole row of things in between ice cream with caramel sauce.” that. Just be diversified. Allen, however, is not as enthusiastic about pairing wines and desserts. “For me, generally, pairing dry wines and desserts is a challenge,” he said. “Maybe in the summertime, like a watermelon or a fruit salad, but definitely not a typical sweet dessert like cake or brownies. This is why typically dry red wines and chocolate don’t go very well even though people try to sell you red wines and chocolate at Valentine’s Day. It’s actually one of the worst kinds of pairings there is.”

“It’s fun to be creative,” he added. “I think people fixate too much on getting the food pairings exactly right. We will often have two bottles open and try them with both courses of the meal. Sometimes you’re pleasantly surprised.” Martha Stoumen’s webpage offers visitors an opportunity to be part of the Cookbook section of its Field Notes by reporting and describing the new food and wine pairings they have discovered.

Allen, who describes his Rosé of Cinsault as a complex wine to be served with a little chill, said, “You can pair it with things that are savory. Duck is good, so is lamb. You would also pair it “We get a lot of reminders that wine with typical summer fare, particularly pairings don’t need to be Eurocentric,” hamburgers, hot dogs and barbecue ribs. Temperature vs Wine Flavor said Kravetz. “There are many flavors It’s got a nice freshness and a little bit of “Think about temperature,” said Allen. to be trying such as tacos and Middle structure.” “You wouldn’t have a dinner party and Eastern food.” serve a carrot soup out of the refrigeraCheese Pairings tor. You would heat it up. But if you aren’t feeling especially “Sharper cheeses are best, harder vs soft, creative, please note that wineries often and with a good amount of age, includ- “I always tell people, if you don’t have a include suggested food pairings on their ing aged gouda, ewephoria, seascape, wine cellar, which a lot of people don’t, websites. fiscalini cheddar, comet and toma,” take your red wine off the counter and Comments about this article? We want said Barefoot about Opus One pairings, put it in the fridge for 15 minutes, and adding the recommended cheeses with take your white wine out of the fridge for to hear from you. Feel free to email us at article@jcsmarketinginc.com Overture are similar to Opus One since 15 minutes,” he continued. “Remember 14

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Rootstock Research Reaches for Drought Resistance By CECILIA PARSONS | Associate Editor

of the leaves that facilitate gas exchange and transpiration) to prevent water loss, limiting growth and modifying its root architecture to explore more soil area and extract water.

ineyard rootstocks find water, scions spend water.

The relationship between the two needs to work to produce grape yields and quality, but researchers know if drought conditions persist, rootstocks that can perform on less water must be developed.

Most grapevines are grafted on a rootstock, the underground part of the plant that supports growth aboveground. Grapevines are deeply rooted with more than 25% of root biomass typically distributed below one meter. Luis Diaz Garcia, assistant professor in grape breeding in the Department of Viticulture and Enology at UC Davis said drought resistance research is ongoing, exploring different adaptive strategies in a variety of grape germplasm and developing novel approaches to screen drought tolerance traits more efficiently. Diaz Garcia said his laboratory is using genomics, robotics, proximal sensing and artificial intelligence to increase the efficiency in identifying superior-performing vines. These approaches, he said, can increase the number of plants evaluated in the program and reduce the time it takes to find and test the new rootstocks. Diaz Garcia explained there are several mechanisms by which a grapevine can tolerate drought. Those include closing its stomata (small pores on the surface 16

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Canopy of vines on GRN2 rootstock, close to harvest in 2021 drought year. Rootstocks like GRN2 are good at mining water from the soil (photo courtesy Tian Tian, UCCE.)

“The challenge is not all of these adaptive mechanisms are compatible with vineyard production systems. Therefore, understanding these mechanisms is crucial for selecting the best/most informative traits to screen in breeding programs,” he said. The goal of the UC research, Diaz Garcia explained, is to develop new rootstocks with improved water-use efficiency and other adaptive traits such as nematode tolerance and good grafting and rooting capabilities. New root traits that help with drought resistance have been identified by UC researchers.

Drought Responses

the soil, losing access to any soil water. When the scion is unable to replace the water lost to evaporation, the stomata are closed to prevent severe dehydration. However, this stops photosynthesis. Rootstocks with lower capitance maintained greater gas exchange under water stress, suggesting adjustment in root structure and biochemistry to retain greater root volume could improve belowground hydraulic function under drought conditions. Bartlett’s study was the first to test whether traits measuring root shrinkage and cell collapse can capture differences in rootstock drought tolerance. Karl Lund, UCCE viticulture advisor in Madera, Merced and Mariposa counties, said most of the work in drought tolerant rootstock development is focused on the winegrape segment as there is funding available. Bartlett’s study was supported by the American Vineyard Foundation, UC Davis and by private donations.

Megan Bartlett, Department of Viticulture and Enology, said with identification of these traits, they can be amplified in “What does drought tolerance mean?” new grape varieties. A UC publication Lund asked. “Is it when a rootstock is outlined her study findings. Contributgood at dealing with low irrigation like ing to her study were researchers from 70% of ET over the season, or is it the University of British Columbia and the ‘broken pump’ problem where there is no USDA-ARS Crops Pathology and Genetwater available for a period of time, and ics Research Unit. when it is, will the rootstock recover?” Bartlett’s research focused on drought responses in living root cells. Capitance, a measurement of how much roots shrink as they dehydrate, is an important trait for drought tolerance. Water stress can cause roots to shrink and pull away from

January 2024

Lund explained there is a lot of variation among rootstocks in how they handle water stress. Some, he noted, are good at mining water from the soil or can find water in the soil. An example is the GRN3 rootstock’s ability to find water.

One challenge to development of a new rootstock is time. Lund said with drought tolerance in mind, first you have to grow the plant, then it takes multiple years to determine its value as drought-tolerant. Field trials for drought tolerance are also difficult to do in wet years. In comparison, a rootstock trial for nematode resistance takes six months to two years. Use of genetic markers to make crossbreeding selections for rootstocks can speed up the process, but the rootstock’s performance in the field for crop yield and quality also must be considered.

Scion Plays a Part

The scion grafted to the rootstock also plays a part in drought tolerance. The rootstock may find the water needed for production, but it is the scion that decides when to open stomata for transpiration. Canopy size is also controlled by

both the rootstock and the scion. Larger root systems handle drought by finding water, but they also support a larger canopy. Lund said he has found situations where a drought-resistant rootstock develops a large canopy that can still handle water stress when the rootstock and scion work as a team. Some incompatibility issues between rootstocks and scions have arisen, but Lund said viruses may play a part in that. When choosing a grapevine rootstock, Lund said the first question is how much tonnage do you want? That figure varies depending on the region. In the San Joaquin Valley, desired winegrape tonnage is high. In the wine country to the north, lower tonnage is preferred, he said. 7 tons to the acre is too much for winegrape growers in the Napa and Sonoma growing regions; they prefer about 3 to 5 tons per acre and desire a lower-vigor rootstock.

Canopy size of different rootstocks tested for drought resistance. UCCE Viticulture Advisor Karl Lund notes there is a lot of variation among rootstocks in how they handle water stress (photo courtesy K. Lund.)

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Certified Organic Vineyards Jackson Family Wines Joins Napa’s Organic Wave By PAM STRAYER | Contributing Writer

ackson Family Wines added a sigLawrence Family’s Demeine Estates (633 was vineyard manager and organic nificant new milestone in fall 2023: It planted acres) and Yount Mill Vinefarming veteran Rafael Jimenez who has announced certification for 15 Napa yards (557 planted acres). been head grower at Jackson’s Freemark vineyards as organic, according to the Abbey in Oakville for five years. Certified California Organic Farmers Currently, just under 14% of Napa vines (CCOF), a USDA approved organic cerare certified organic. The two brought in compost (typical in tifier. Jackson Family Wines reported the organic viticulture) to increase organic total acreage planted to vine is 480 acres. “I firmly believe agriculture should lead matter in the solid and adopted no till the way in redefining our relationship farming. They also had sheep graze in That makes it the third largest organic with the planet as a species,” said Chris- the spring for weed control. vineyard owner in Napa behind the topher Carpenter, winemaker at Jackson Family Wines who works with their Carpenter said the beauty of organic high-end Napa brands. “This organic vineyards lies under the vines. certification in Napa represents the initial step as we progress toward regener- “One of the factors of organic you’ll ative organic certification and continue learn to live with is it’s not the prettiest to foster harmony between the natural thing in the world [i.e. there’s weeds on world and the agricultural world.” the vineyard floor],” he said in a YouTube video. “But if you were to open A long-standing board member and up these soils and look at what’s going former chair of Slow Food USA, who on in the soil health, that’s beauty unto also started the Napa chapter, Carpenter itself. The soils are as healthy as they’ve makes the wines for four of Jackson’s ever been. And what we also ultimately Napa brands (Cardinale, Lokoya, La Jota do is just incorporate these weeds back and Mt. Brave). into the soil to raise the nitrogen level and get ready for next year’s early ripenOrganic vineyard acreage is increasing throughout Carpenter’s partner in the conversion ing,” he said. California and Oregon (photo by Julie Johnson.) His remarks were captured in a 2023 video tour of the 27-acre Wurtele vineyard in the Spring Mountain AVA.

Top Mountain Sites

Mountain vineyard sites are responsible for 554 of the certified acres, the type of terroir founder Jess Jackson famously preferred.

1. Potelle, Mount Veeder AVA | 202 acres 2. Keyes, Howell Mountain AVA | 109 acres 3. Veeder, Mount Veeder AVA | 61 acres Christopher Carpenter, winemaker at Jackson Family Wines, which recently announced certification for 15 Napa vineyards as organic, says the beauty of organic vineyards lies under the vines (photo courtesy Jackson Family Wines.)

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January 2024

4. La Jota, Howell Mountain AVA | 41 acres

5. Rhyolite Ride, Diamond Mountain District AVA | 39 acres 6. Atalon, Diamond Mountain District AVA AVA | 30 acres 7. Wurtele, Spring Mountain District AVA | 27 acres 8. Lokoya, Spring Mountain District AVA | 24 acres 9. Ho, Mount Veeder AVA | 11 acres 10. Wallis, Diamond Mountain AVA | 10 acres Grapes from these vineyards go into wines under the Cardinale, Freemark Abbey, Lokoya, La Jota, Mt. Brave and Caladan brands. Three additional newly certified organic vineyards have historic significance since they surround the 1886 Freemark Abbey winery. • VanZ, St. Helena AVA | 5 acres • Ahern in St. Helena AVA | 4 acres (at Freemark Abbey) • Freemark Abbey, St. Helena AVA | 2 acres Its Howell Mountain La Jota wines go for $100 to $175. Jackson also has 80 acres of vines certified organic at its Cardinale estate on the valley floor in Napa. The estate wine sells for around $350.

Valley in Sonoma County. That was the same year Sonoma County neighbor Benziger Winery officially adopted biodynamics. Armenier came to the U.S. from Domaine Marcoux, his family’s 40-acre Chateauneuf du Pape estate winery, which in 1990 was the first in the region to adopt biodynamic farming. They were later the first in the Rhone to receive a 100-point score from Robert Parker. Though the Jackson-Armenier relationship was brief, it was notable as a sign of things to come, albeit 23 years later and in Napa organics, not Sonoma biodynamics.

More Large Organic Vineyards in Napa

Demeine Estates owns historic blue chip Napa wineries Heitz Cellar, Stony Hill, Burgess and others. Mark Neal has overseen organic vineyard management on its 633 acres (certified organic as well as biodynamic). An additional 18 acres is currently in the three-year transition period (this does not include Martha’s Vineyard (33 acres) which it sources from exclusively and is owned by a different family.) The oldest large organic vineyard owner in Napa is Yount Mill Vineyards, owned and farmed by descendants of the Pelissa family and certified first in 1995. They sell most of the fruit from their 557 acres but retain roughly 10% for four family-owned brands.

Other big names in Napa with certified Lokoya is the brand that relies most on organic vines include Grgich Hills (336 the mountain fruit from the Diamond acres), Inglenook (230 acres), Frog’s Mountain District, Howell Mountain, Leap (200 acres), Opus One (169 acres), Mount Veeder and Spring Mountain Quintessa (160 acres), Raymond (156 District appellations. Carpenter makes acres), Stags Leap Wine Cellars (145 single vineyard designates under the acres) and Robert Sinskey (115 acres). Lokoya label from each of the four AVAs. All are certified by CCOF, a Santa CruzThey’re priced at about $450. based certifier, accredited by USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP), Jackson Family Wines’ relationship with which sets the national standards. organic grape growing has deep roots. In 2000, founder Jess Jackson hired Other leading organic certifiers in U.S. French Rhone winemaker Philippe wine circles accredited by NOP are Armenier to plant biodynamic vines Organic Certifiers, Oregon Tilth, the around Jackson’s home in Alexander Oregon Dept. of Agriculture and the

Washington State Dept. of Agriculture. Unlike sustainability certifications, organic certification is protected by federal law. Organic growers are eligible to receive grants that reduce certification fees.

Organic Leaders in California and Oregon

Outside of Napa, one of the biggest organic vineyard owners in California is WC Ag (Fred Franzia) in Ceres in the Central Valley with 1,600 acres. Others are Castoro Cellars (1,400 acres), Scheid Vineyards (667 acres with 2,000+ more planned) and grower French Camp in Santa Maria (472 acres). In 2023, Kylix Vineyards (affiliated with Grapevine Capital Partners, which has previously represented Harvard’s endowment investments) certified 485 acres of vineyards organic in Paso’s San Juan Creek AVA. Trinchero Estates certified 183 acres in Yolo County in August 2023. In fine wine circles, there’s Ridge Vineyards in both Sonoma and Santa Clara counties (379 acres), Daou in Paso Robles (212 acres) and Tablas Creek, also in Paso Robles (130 acres). In Santa Barbara County, Stolpman (181 acres), Sea Smoke (170 acres) and Beckmen (150 acres) lead in organic and/or biodynamic certified acreage. In Oregon, the eco-certified list includes Momtazi Vineyard (260 acres), Montinore Estate (230 acres) and Cooper Mountain Vineyards (200 acres), which are all certified biodynamic (requires meeting organic standards as a baseline). Lemelson Vineyards has 125 acres and Domaine Drouhin will soon have 130 acres (it’s currently in the three-year transition required for organic certification.) The legendary Temperance Hill (100 acres) was one of the first growers in Oregon to be certified organic.

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SUSTAINABLE STORY SERIES: PART 3 MANAGING PESTS IN ECO-FRIENDLY WAYS: STRATEGIES FROM SUSTAINABLE WINEGROWERS By WHITNEY BROWNIE | Vineyard Team

Managers of sustainably farmed vineyards value safe pest management by using integrated pest management strategies (photo courtesy Vineyard Team.)

f you have devoted time to a home garden, you have experienced the frustration of managing weeds, insect pests, rodents and plant diseases.

Pests can cause so much damage to your 20

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months of hard work that you have to discard a sizable portion of your harvest, or even remove plants completely. They damage your precious produce, steal resources like water and nutrients, bore into plants and accelerate decay, and

January 2024

spread disease. To a commercial farmer, damages like these can devastate their business. Each year, 20% to 40% of global crop production is lost to pests, costing nearly

$300 billion (FAO 2019). Damages of this magnitude divert human and economic resources and compromise our food supply. So then, what is a grower to do when they find their crop has become home to pests? They implement an informed and tailored approach to manage their farm’s unique and dynamic pest complex, one that lessens the damage and economic burdens brought about by pests without causing harm to the ecosystem.

nature by encouraging natural predators and beneficial insects into the vineyard to help manage pests. You can see evidence of this practice in action from a distance at nearly any sustainably grown vineyard.

hunting and nesting grounds and gives growers an eco-friendly way to keep rodent populations down without relying on chemical rodenticides.

Barn owls are a common and effective form of biological control used in vineyards. Farms install owl boxes throughout their vines, giving birds the perfect viewing place to spot scurrying critters and raise the next generation of gopher-getters. It is a mutually beneficial relationship that provides owls with

Mechanical and physical controls are direct interventions between a pest and a crop. These tools include bird netting, rodent traps, deer and hog fencing, and mulching.

Mechanical/Physical Controls

Continued on Page 22

Managers of sustainably farmed vineyards value safe pest management strategies. They manage pests in ways that minimize economic damage to their crop, protect the environment, are safe for their workers and produce a quality end-product. This is achieved by implementing integrated pest management (IPM) strategies. According to the United States Department of Agriculture, IPM is “a science-based decision-making process that combines tools and strategies to identify and manage pests.” This sustainable approach to pest management combines strategies from four different control categories: cultural, biological, mechanical/ physical and chemical. For an IPM strategy to be successful, a sustainable vineyard steward must have a broad knowledge of pests, their lifecycles and their habitats. With this knowledge, a vineyard manager can create a safe pest management strategy that makes the vineyard ecosystem less hospitable to pests in the first place.

Cultural Controls

Cultural controls aim to disrupt a pest’s habitat. This reduces a pest’s ability to establish themselves, reproduce and thrive. Many winegrowers manage powdery mildew through cultural controls. Mildew thrives in dark, damp environments. Thinning leaves on vines improves airflow and light penetration through canopies, helping to reduce mildew pressure.

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Continued from Page 21 Covering the ground between vine rows with a mulch material like yard waste, wood chips, straw or hay is an effective way to reduce weed pressure. The mulching blocks out light, and without light, weed seeds cannot germinate. This practice has additional benefits of reducing soil erosion, preserving soil moisture, insulating the soil from extreme heat and cold, and increasing soil organic matter.

Chemical Control

While chemical intervention can be necessary, sustainable vineyard stewards explore this option once the other three methods have been used. The selection and application of pesticides are done in ways that minimize possible harm to people and the environment. This means choosing safer active ingredients that don’t contaminate air, soil and water, or pose threats to humans or non-target organisms. When a sustainable grower makes targeted applications, they minimize the treated area and ensure only appropriate areas are treated.

Compounding Benefits

Because sustainable farming is holistic, growers often find that one good practice has an unexpected positive impact on another resource. This was the case for JeanPierre Wolff, owner of SIP Certified Wolff Vineyards in San Luis Obispo, Calif.

Bird boxes incite in vineyards the presence of barn owls, a common and effective form of biological control for rodents (photo courtesy Vineyard Team.)

A cultural modification intended to reduce his irrigation needs turned out to have what he calls an “indirectly obvious” benefit: less pressure from weeds and vertebrate pests. While redeveloping a portion of his vineyard in 2017, Jean-Pierre Wolff decided to convert to drought-resistant rootstocks. And then he did something novel: He planted them three feet into the ground. Since a standard drip irrigation system

wouldn’t be able to efficiently hydrate the deep roots, he needed to develop a system that would. Deriving inspiration from an African palm farming technique that utilizes bamboo sticks and coke bottles for irrigation, Wolff placed PVC pipes vertically into the ground at the depth of each rootstock. Through these PVC pipes, water and fertilizer are delivered directly to the rootzone.

Wolff Vineyards’ Jean-Pierre Wolff placed PVC pipes vertically into the ground at the depth of each rootstock to reduce irrigation needs and ended up with a sustainable way to also mitigate weed and vertebrate pest pressure.

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January 2024

He compares this system to an IV. In a traditional drip irrigation system, water and fertilizer need to move through multiple layers of soil before reaching the roots. With this direct delivery method, nothing is wasted in the parts of the soil that contain no roots. This innovative subsurface irrigation technique achieved Wolff’s original goal of reducing the amount of water required to irrigate the vines by 30% to 50%. It also reduced the pressure of native and noxious weeds in his vineyard. Since many weeds have shallow roots, they cannot reach the water and fertilizer that are applied three feet under the ground’s surface. This cultural practice created an environment where weeds can’t access the resources they need to securely establish themselves, and therefore cannot thrive. Vertebrate pests have also had little

success establishing themselves in the blocks of deeply planted vines. Since many rodents do not regularly dig to these depths, the subsurface irrigated blocks see far less damage. Much of a plant’s vitality relies on its root system. Root damage caused by rodents can cause lower yields and outright vine death. Safe pest management strategies offer growers a variety of tools to help them manage complex pest issues. Wolff’s story is just one example of how sustainable winegrowers take a mindful approach to combat dynamic pest concerns in eco-friendly ways. With heightened awareness about the environmental and social impacts of conventional agriculture, it’s no surprise 85% of global consumers have become “greener” in their purchasing decisions (Simon-Kucher & Partners 2021). If you’re not sharing the story of your sustainably minded business, now is the

time to start. Help the growing number of eco-conscious consumers choose your products by letting them know they are produced in environmentally responsible ways. Telling your sustainable story makes your business stand out for not only recognizing the health and resource issues currently being faced but acting to address them. Want to hear more stories about how sustainable winegrowers and winemakers are raising the bar? Next time, we’ll share the story of how an estate vineyard and winery in Arroyo Grande, Calif. made many small changes around their property that compounded to have a massive impact on their overall energy use.

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Indian Peak Vineyard is Couple’s Self-Made Dream-Come-True

By JULIE R. JOHNSON | Contributing Writer

Valley and west to the Trinity Mountain Range. It’s hard to beat such an experience; however, Fred explains, “Do it with a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon in your hand and it gets even better.” When the couple bought the property on Forward Road in 1999, it was rocky, brush-covered ground. Right away, Fred began the arduous task of clearing six acres of the 10-acre property in preparation of planting a vineyard.

The expansive 360-degree views from Indian Peak Vineyard are breathtaking (photo by J.R. Johnson.)

t’s a two-man show at Indian Peak Vineyard in Manton, Calif. Well, to be honest and exact, it’s a one-man and one-woman show in the form of Fred and Donna Boots, who own and operate the boutique grape growing and winemaking operation at the foothills of the beautiful

northern Sierra Nevada Cascades, home to the Lassen Volcanic National Forest.

“Having a vineyard was something I always wanted to do,” said the self-taught winemaker. “I really never thought I’d be able to do it, but we thought, ‘What the heck,’ and decided to take the chance.” The couple quit their jobs, Donna working for the Tehama County Conservator and Public Guardians Office and Fred a long career in construction.

Looking east from the Boots’ property, visitors see the majestic Lassen Peak, then turn “It was such hard work. It began when I was around and enjoy a view that encompass54 years old and I could pretty much do all es the breadth of the Upper Sacramento the work myself,” Fred said. “I planted it all myself. When I hit 60, I needed a bit of help. When I hit 65, I needed a lot of help, and now that I’m 71, I find I can do very little myself.” However, his heart is still in it as he lives a dream come true. With Fred getting his hands dirty, Donna has been busy running the clerical end of things. “I do all the bookkeeping, keeping up on rules, regulations and compliance, ordering supplies and paying the bills,” she said.

Fred Boot, owner/operator of Indian Peak Vineyard, shows how he dealt with pouring and offering wine during the COVID-19 pandemic (photo by D. Boot.)

Fred and Donna Boots have enjoyed the dream of owning and operating a vineyard and winery for since 1999 when the purchased property in Manton, Calif. to develop Indian Peak Vineyard (photo by J.R. Johnson.)

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January 2024

By 2004, the couple built Indian Peak’s winery building and were living on the property by 2005, moving from their home in Cottonwood. According to Fred, there are two things that brought them to the Manton area

when they decided to open a vineyard. “First is the temperatures; it can be 105 degrees [F] during the day in August and at night down to 55 degrees [F],” he said. “I like the Bordeaux varieties, and you really need big temperature swings to develop the flavors in the Bordeaux varietals.” As Fred talks about the origins of the Bordeaux varieties of grapes in France, his love the of winemaking is palatable, right along with its hard work, sacrifices, stresses and sobering realities. “I planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot first on the six planted acres,” he says. “70% is in Cabernet, with a little of each of Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and to really mix things up a bit, I threw in some Cabernet Blanc to produce a white wine.” Indian Peak’s grapevines thrive on the rich volcanic soils in the region. The vineyard’s tasting room is homey and welcoming in its simplicity. Fred says they don’t need anything fancy as the wine sells itself.

The building contains the tasting room, offices, lab room, bottling room, bathroom and storage for tanks, barrels and wine.

The Vineyard

In Manton there are Fred Boot enjoys a taste of one of his Indian “Red, red, red volcanic soils abound.…,” Peak-grown-and-produced red wines (photo by J.R. Johnson.) thanks to volcanic Mt. Lassen, which has helped to provide 28 different soils. These are mostly characterized by gravelly loam and sandy loam found throughout the region, and the soils in general are well draining. The top Tuscan formation created a significant aquifer within the Battle Creek watershed providing ample annual water. Indian Peaks Vineyard has dedicated water rights from the state of California, allotted 1.3 decreed miners inches of water, equal

“We have had so many truly loyal customers over the years,” Donna said. “Many who have become some of our closest friends. Along with that, we have been host to people from all around the world.”

Continued on Page 26

To share that point, the tasting room is home to a world map littered with dots representing people who have visited Indian Peak from across the globe. “No two guests are the same, and we really try to make everyone feel like this is right where they need to be,” Donna added. To keep things simple and provide the couple with the time it takes to successfully operate a vineyard and winery, the Boots live in a fifth-wheel travel trailer adjacent to the building housing the tasting room and winery.

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“That provides a lot of convenience,” Fred says. There was a time when Indian Peak had another partner in the mix, the Boots’ daughter, Christie, and her husband, Trevor, who successfully ran the marketing side of the operation. However, when Christie passed away, life in the vineyard became a bit difficult on many levels. Down but not out, the couple laced up their boots and kept going, serving their lovingly created wines, holding special tasting events, annual stomping of the grapes, annual blessing of the grapes and much more. When visiting Indian Peak, guests are first welcomed by a tall, wooden statue of an Indian warrior at the entrance to the 2,400-square-foot tasting room winery.

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Continued from Page 25

Fred said all the wines are crushed, fermented, barrel aged and bottled on to approximately 11 gallons per minutes location at the winery, and he person(GPM). The source of the water is springs ally oversees and makes knowledgeable and snow melt from Mt. Lassen to the east. adjustments to the entire process. The water is delivered from the mountain by the Crooker-Harrison Water Ditch, He especially enjoys his “job” when he which serves several neighboring propergets to pull the wine from the barrels to ties, as well as the vineyard. test it. The water is then distributed throughout vineyard acreage through a drip irrigation system.

American Viticultural Area

Indian Peak Vineyard is blessed to overlook the community’s only steeple, which sits atop the Manton Community Church (photo by J.R. Johnson.)

The Manton region has been designated a Vineyard American Viticultural Area (AVA) since August 2014, designating it as a wine grape-growing region in the U.S. distinguishable by geographic features, with boundaries defined by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) of the U.S. Department of the Treasury. The Federal government officially sanctions the effort to identify truly one-ofa-kind winegrowing districts through its system of “American Viticultural Areas” or “AVAs.” When appearing on a label, these legal place names impart to the consumer important information and guarantees about the wine’s origin. By law, to use one of these official site designations, 85% of that bottle’s grapes must have been grown within the AVA’s boundaries. Created in August 2014, the Manton Valley AVA consists of 9,800 acre and now Indian Peak Vineyard and Algian Vineyard.

Indian Peak Vineyards has won gold, silver, and bronze medals in international competitions and at the state level for several of its wines. Indian Peak offers free wine tasting hosted by the Boots where everyone is encouraged to bring a picnic lunch and enjoy the beauty of the surrounding Sierra Nevada. The winery can accommodate groups of up to 30 people for special events. Wine tasting is by the glass with a volume discount and an even larger discount for wine purchase by the case. “I like to believe we quite possibly offer the best wine tasting available,” says Fred. “You never know who you will meet next and how they may enlighten you or speak to your soul,” Fred said, “or just simply share a recipe sometimes in these casual conversations about winemaking, types of grapes and the benefits of growing grapes and producing wine, all with your very own hands and heart.” Because the Boots’ are no longer spring chickens and the work of keeping up with the vineyard is difficult and never-ending, the couple has decided to call it a day and have placed Indian Peak on the market.

Estate Bottled means the winery listed on the label owns or controls 100% of the grapes that went into the bottle, and the “Sometimes, the thought of leaving the wine was crushed, fermented, finished, place is really difficult, but after a hard aged and bottled all in the same place, day’s work, it doesn’t sound so bad,” Donand that place must be located in the same na added. “Especially for Fred, this has viticultural area. Indian Peak falls under been a dream come true and we wouldn’t this category with Fred and Donna doing have done it any other way. Some of our all the work to produce award-winning best memories are planted right here in wines. this soil.”

Winemaking

A cigar-smoking wooden Indian warrior statue greets guests as they walk up to Indian Peak Vineyard’s tasting room (photo by J.R. Johnson.)

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Other varietals, such as Zinfandel, Syrah and Chardonnay, are purchased by the Boots from other local vineyards in Tehama and Shasta counties. January 2024

Fred sits back and opens a bottle of one of his favorite Bordeauxs, pours it into a Comments about this article? We want to hear from you. Feel free to email us at article@jcsmarketinginc.com

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YEARS OF