April - June 2023
A historical landmark with a history of being ignored - Page 6
The Mummies of Lake Mutanda - Page 16
Stunning and rewarding Mt. Kilimanjaro trekking experience - Page 44
Exploring the Unique Flavours of Rwanda: Brochette & Birayi - Page 10
From the Jungle to the city: The Ever-Relevant Meal, Belila (Anyoyo) - Page 32
Ecotourism investments in protected areas cause uproar as Zanzibar moves on - Page 12
Kinshasa’s battle with plastic waste - Page 42
Tanzania struggles to protect its game reserves as invaders destruct forests - Page 50
The dying and emerging trends of all genres in Africa and around the world - Page 28
Burundi’s Mama Dimanche - Page 20
The battle general of Butare and Rajagiri - Page 26
Lycie, the lady men trust with their heads - Page 34
The unexploited tourism blue economy of Uganda - Page 48
The impact of climate change on the Eastern Africa region - Page 36
Thank you for grabbing yourself a copy of Travel News East Africa Magazine. Having taken a ‘a covid era’ break, there were incessant cries from our readers and partners for a hardcopy of the magazine hence the evolution you are holding in your hands.
In this edition, we take you on great journeys and memories across the now expanded East African Community of seven countries.
We have great compelling stories ranging from South Sudan about Anyoyo, belila or githeri as it is known in different parts of East Africa. This delicacy qualifies to be a regional staple food.
From Kenya emerges a story of a heritage site that does not get the recognition, publicity and attention it deserves. We also visit South Western Uganda, Kisoro, which is home to some islands that were a preferred final resting place for Abahinza rulers.
In Rwanda we explore the unique flavours with a special focus on brochette and birayi, this delicacy makes many salivate.
When were you last on the road? We take you on a road trip from Kampala to Bujumbura via Tanzania.
Zanzibar is giving a deaf ear to the uproar from conservation bodies, choosing to forge forward with eco-tourism investments.
Read on, there is a lot more in this copy.
Travel News East Africa Magazine is published on a quarterly basis and covers topics of; Hospitality, Conservation, Destinations, Maritime, Climate Change, Aviation, Tales, Arts and People/ Communities. We also aim to provide infotainment, lifestyle and an in-depth analysis of business opportunities across the region.
We offer a cocktail of timeless stories to our global audiences from Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, Tanzania, Burundi, South Sudan and the Democratic Republic of Congo.
Now that you are here, we look forward to having further interactions with you on our social media platforms, Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, our website and the YouTube channel.
We wish you a pleasant reading experience!
PUBLISHER
CONTRIBUTORS
Fred Oluoch, Kevin Oak, Mike Mande, Job Namanya, Moses Havyarimana, Gilbert Mwijuke, Andrew Busingye, Richard Sultan, Toko Oola, Kelly Rwamapera, Aggrey Nshekanabo and Andrew Kazibwe
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Ruth Njoki, Peace Ashimwe, Sauda Kimolo, Ruhinda Tumaini Lucia Geaorge, Moreen Tumwebaze, Karungi Deborah, Akello Annegrate, Clare Barinyenka, Akurut Agnes Okurut, Nyembwe Kabenda Benisson and Liesse Delicia Irakoze.
Kenya, which competes to claim the origin of mankind with Ethiopia and South Africa, is now facing marketing challenges with its unique 600-year cultural landscape in the western region of the country.
Although it is a significant historical landmark in East Africa, Thimlich Ohinga, an archaeological site in Migori County about 180 km southwest of Kisumu City, is hardly known outside of the immediate area.
Thimlich Ohinga, which means a “frightening, dense forest” in the local Dholuo language, is only similar to Great Zimbabwe, a stone structure from which the Southern African country draws its name.
It can also be compared with the walled cities of the Middle East in Jordan, Iran and Saudi Arabia, and the Surame Cultural Landscape in northern Nigeria.
Despite having been built without mortar, the expansive structure, on a 52-acre piece
of land, is still standing, except for a few sections that have been destroyed by weather, human and animal activities. The dry stone-wall structure was gazetted as a national monument in 1981.
The 600-year-old historical landmark that was inscribed in the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Unesco) World Heritage List in 2018 needs marketing, easy access, and essential amenities for visitors.
Built in the 14th century, Thimlich Ohinga is one of the few examples of the early defensive savannah architecture that became a traditional style across East Africa. Although the site has been identified by Signature Destinations as one of the mustvisit destinations in the Western Kenya Circuit, the site still needs good roads, water, electricity, and accommodation facilities.
Thimlich Ohinga has the potential of being one of the leading tourist attractions on the western circuit. Its strategic location is a perfect stopover for those on their way to or from the nearby Ruma National Game Park, Gogo Falls, or the Macalder gold mines.
After five years of listing, the site is struggling to meet the threshold of Unesco sites as both the National Museums of Kenya (NMK), which is the custodian, and the county government struggle to fix the needed facilities.
Daudi Okoth, the former Migori County Director of Trade, Tourism and Corporative, said that the county had tendered and designed the Visitor Resource Centre with the capacity to hold 150 people, with washrooms and a cafeteria.
A lot of tourists using small aircraft land in Migori on their way to Maasai Mara and Serengeti, but Thimlich has not benefited because of poor infrastructure.
However, being an international facility, it has to abide by Unesco standards which require an Archeological Survey and Environmental Impact Assessment.
Archeological Survey is a must to ensure that the construction of hotels and other amenities does not block the archeological deposits that are still underground, given that this is a very rich archeological region. A cultural site or landscape that is found on
the World Heritage List has been recognized for its exceptional, all-encompassing value to humanity. Once a site is listed, it no longer belongs to the country that is hosting it; instead, it becomes a global property that can receive funding from donors like Unesco. Through programmses in education and conservation, publicity, and international assistance, Kenya should benefit financially as well as technically.
Thimlich was necessary in the 14th Century for defence purposes at a time when East Africa was receiving a huge number of immigrants from the north and southern Africa.
It has a large enclosure with one-metre-thick walls to act as a defence against hostile communities or wild animals. Archaeological records show that Thimlich had two phases of occupation.
As a village complex with a symbol of leadership, it became the centre from which territorial conquests into neighbouring areas were conducted. It also developed as an administrative centre where leadership consultations and labour organisations were carried out.
The 600-year-old historical landmark that was inscribed in the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Unesco) World Heritage ListA scientist recording data at the site
Thimlich Ohinga is an outstanding example of local architecture characterised by a three-phase dry stone laying technology that is not known to exist anywhere else in the region. The complex is composed of four main enclosures; Kochieng, Kakuku, Koketch and Kolouch. Most of them have been downgraded by nature except thimlich main complex.
The walls consist of meticulously arranged stones of irregular shapes and sizes. They were constructed in three phases that ran concurrently where the outer and inner phases of the walls were joined together using a middle third phase consisting of smaller stones that pressed down the ends of the outer and inner stones.
Due to the lack of distinct shapes in the stones used, the walls do not exhibit any course line, as is common in modern stone walls. The walls range in height from 1.2m to 4.2m. They were built without mortar and have many complementing features that have made them survive for several centuries.
The stones were simply put together using an interlocking system that enhanced stability. The average thickness of the walls is approximately one metre, increasing at the entrances to about 2m to 3m. This was a stability technique used to create maximum strength at the gates.
The walls had no foundation but this was mitigated by the use of buttresses for protection of the enclosures from strong winds as well as the effects of slope, humans, and animals. Furthermore, purposely selected elongated slabs were used at the gates as lintels to support the weight of the stones above the entrance.
The structures include gates 1metre wide and 1.5 metre high, which was a defensive and technological innovation. One had to stoop when entering the gates and there were watch towers adjacent to the gates.
Thimlich is the only historical landmark in Kenya with regional significance in terms of migration. There were migrants from Tanzania, Uganda, Burundi and Rwanda, that passed through Thimlich.
Between the 15th and 19th centuries, communities that settled in this area repaired and altered the walls but left the buildings and the preservation of the structures.
According to the former director of the British Institute of Eastern Africa, Prof Paul Lane, who assisted the excavation team, it was necessary to build such large enclosures with walls one metre thick to act as a defence against hostile communities or wild animals.
He added that leaders at the time competed to build the largest enclosures, and the walls served as a symbol of authority designating the fort as a hub of political power and wealth.
The stones show that the structure required a lot of labour and years to complete. Therefore, either the communities had a strong food-producing economy to support the labor force, or the political system could compel people to work together on a project where it was widely agreed that such enclosures were required, according to Prof Lane.
Rwanda is known for its rich cultural heritage, breathtaking landscapes, and its unique cuisine. Among the popular dishes in Rwanda are brochette and birayi, which are beloved by locals and visitors alike. Brochette is a dish made up of skewered meat, while birayi is roasted potatoes. These dishes are a common sight in most restaurants, street food stands, and barbecues across the country. But did you know that the origins of brochette and birayi can be traced back to the colonial era?
During the Belgian colonial rule, meat was a luxury that was only available to the wealthy. However, the local population had access to offcuts and scraps of meat that they used to make brochettes. This dish quickly became a popular street food, and it was not long before the Belgians themselves developed a taste for it. Over time, the dish has evolved to include different types of meat, and is now a staple in Rwandan cuisine. Similarly, birayi has its roots in the traditional way of cooking potatoes in the country, which involved roasting them in ash.
Let’s explore the uniqueness of brochette and birayi, including the preparation and consumption of the dishes and also look at some of the popular accompaniments for these dishes that complement them. Let’s dive in!
Brochette is skewered meat that is grilled over an open flame. The meat can include beef, goat, chicken, or even fish. It is marinated in a flavorful blend of spices and herbs before being cooked, giving it a rich and complex flavor.
Birayi, on the other hand, is a unique preparation of potatoes that is often served alongside brochette. The potatoes are boiled and then roasted in a skillet until they are crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. They are often seasoned with a blend of herbs and spices, such as garlic, ginger and turmeric, which give them a distinctive flavor.
Together, brochette and birayi make for a delicious and satisfying meal that is perfect for any occasion. The combination of savory grilled meat and crispy potatoes is truly a match made in culinary heaven.
Accompaniments: Taking Brochette and Birayi to the Next Level
While brochette and birayi are delicious on
Brochette and Birayi Recipe:
Ingredients:
- 1 kg of beef or goat meat, cut into bite-size pieces
- 1 onion, chopped
- 2 cloves of garlic, minced
- 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil
- Salt and pepper to taste
- 2 potatoes, peeled and cubed
- Skewers
For the Birayi:
- 2-3 large potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes
- Salt to taste
- 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil
- 1/2 teaspoon of turmeric powder
Instructions:
In a large bowl, mix the meat with the chopped onions, minced garlic, vegetable oil, salt, and pepper. Let it marinate for at least an hour in the refrigerator.
their own, they are even better when paired with a variety of different accompaniments. One of the most popular accompaniments is isombe, a dish made with cassava leaves that are cooked in a flavorful blend of spices and herbs. The dish has a slightly bitter flavor that pairs perfectly with the rich, savory flavors of brochette and birayi.
Salad is also a common accompaniment and is often made with a variety of fresh and colorful vegetables, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, and carrots. The salad is usually dressed with a vinaigrette made with local ingredients such as lemon, ginger, and honey, which adds a sweet and tangy flavor that pairs well with the savory flavors of the brochette and birayi.
Another popular dish that usually accompanies brochette is roasted or grilled plantains (locally referred to as mizuzu). The dish has a slightly sweet and savory flavor that pairs well with the bold flavors of brochette.
Now that we have explored the unique and delicious food of Rwanda, it’s time to try it out for yourself! Here’s a simple recipe for making brochette and birayi at home:
Preheat your grill or oven to 400°F.
Thread the meat onto the skewers, alternating with the cubed potatoes Place the skewers on the grill or in the oven and cook for 10-12 minutes, turning them occasionally, until the meat is cooked through and the potatoes are tender.
While the brochettes are cooking, make the birayi. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the potatoes, salt, and turmeric powder, and cook for 10-12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are tender and lightly browned.
Serve the brochettes and birayi with a side of isombe, salad, or other traditional Rwandan accompaniments.
Enjoy the delicious flavors of Rwanda right in your own home!
The Island of Zanzibar is moving on with its quest to invest in forest protected areas despite an uproar from world conservation bodies.
The Isles’ Government is now seeking local and international firms to construct tourism facilities in four protected areas of Unguja and Pemba despite its value and importance to the world heritage.
The four protected areas which are up for grabs are Jozani Chwaka Bay National Parks, Ngezi-Vumawimbi Nature Reserve,
Masingini Nature Reserve and KiwengwaPongwe Forest Reserves.
Zanzibar government says infrastructure that will be permitted in those areas should be light, eco-friendly structures that can be easily dismantled with little footprints in the forest reserve which should be installed in open space and without significant cutting of vegetation.
It said that the investors should also observe the 30 metres limit of building on the sand beach and the 10 metres limit from the
rocky shore.
Simai Said, Minister for Tourism and Heritage of Zanzibar says that in Zanzibar, forest protected areas are attractive to tourists as well as investors and are one of the important investment hotspots as they create and maintain a balanced approach between ecotourism and conservation.
“Ecotourism facilities on protected areas must be conducted with an understanding of how the areas function as an ecosystem, and how a facility will conserve the cultural heritage values, benefit traditional owners and the community; improve tourism experience, and be integrated into the park’s forest resource management. Investment into Ecotourism, will assist in developing facilities and improving experiences in protected areas,” said Simai.
According to Simai, the investments in the forest protected areas will contribute much to improving the livelihood of the Zanzibar communities, conserve biodiversity and increase the country’s income at large. Nevertheless, to work with investors in harmony, it is justifiable to have clear guidelines on different investments initiatives especially in biologically sensitive areas such as Forest Protected Areas.
The Island of Zanzibar has of recent encouraged investors to establish
investments in different areas including in the forest protected areas to support the Country’s Blue Economy Policy. It is also continuing with its initiatives of installing CCTV across the tourism sites in the Island. The Isles are currently a major tourist hub for Italian, Ukraine and Russian tourists. The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN)says the 1994 protocol recognises that protected areas must be managed through legal or other effective means.
“Protected areas represent special places in the world that are managed for conservation purposes. They are, of course, important because of the critical role they play in biodiversity conservation. This role is recognised by most countries including the 177 Parties to the Convention for Biological Diversity (CBD). Article 8 obliges Parties to establish a system of protected areas to conserve biodiversity, but also to develop guidelines for the management of such areas and promote appropriate development adjacent to protected areas. Commitments such as these assist in the conservation of global biodiversity by making clearer the responsibilities of governments for protected area systems.’ it said.
In its statement to the Travel News East Africa, the IUCN said that protected areas ensure the continued flow of ecosystem services, such as the provision of clean water and the protection of soil resources. They provide significant economic benefits to surrounding communities and contribute to spiritual, mental, and physical wellbeing.
It said that protected areas also help fulfill an ethical responsibility to respect nature and provide opportunities to learn about nature and the environment.
The Isles government promises to take appropriate measures to ensure that as the facilities are built; there shall not be significant change to the land’s natural condition or adverse effect on cultural resources and values.
Zanzibar is endowed with 10 forest protected areas including National Parks, Nature Conservation Areas, Forest Reserves, mangrove and a good network of community forest protected areas.
Throughout man’s history all cultures have different ways in which they handle their departed and their final resting places (tombs). Those who leave this world to the next are considered to have been separated from us in body but remaining with us in spirit. In African traditional society it was considered that our departed forefathers lived among us and that our lives may be affected by the way we relate to them.
It is in this respect that, in the past the Abahinza, the rulers of the pre-aristocratic era in Rwanda were not buried with commoners in communal cemeteries but in selected caves on chosen islands. Lake Mutanda, lava dammed lake found in south western Uganda, Kisoro district is
home to some of the Islands which were used for such a purpose.
According to tradition, there are many islands on Lake Mutanda, each used for a given purpose in the culture and religious customs and traditions that fore-fathers ordained them to be.
Louis Bishubeho, a local politician and tour guide in the area took us on a trip to one of the Islands where history lies. Bishubeho told us that he is a descendant of the Abahinza, and that he knows a lot about the history of this place.
“This was the burial ground of the Bahinza, my ancestors who were the rulers of the Great lakes region and Northern Rwanda. I do not feel ashamed to associate with the place because it holds my ancestors,” said Bishubeho.
Out of curiosity, we asked Bishubeho how he got hold of this history that can
only be told by him in the current era. He told us that his late Grandfather shared all the details with him and then issued a number of directives prior to his death.
“My grandfather Bishubeho, who died at 128 years of age told me about this secret and asked me to share it with other members of our lineage. The aim of our discussion was to come up with strategies of how to pay respect to our ancestors resting in this place,” added Bishubeho. He further told us that despite the historical attachment they have to the area, there is a great spiritual connection they enjoy while visiting the site.
“We usually come here to pay respect to our ancestors and we believe that when we are here, we get blessings. You do not have to enter the cave, you only stand out and ask the ancestors to bless your plans and they are realized,” Bishubeho added.
At this place, we noticed that Bishubeho was barefooted and upon asking him why he visited this area in this form, he explained that since they consider the place sacred, it would be bad for him to step on his ancestors with shoes.
With the continued destruction around the site, Bishubeho called on the government to join efforts to preserve this place.
“Some of the remains that were here have been exhumed by the various people for their own selfish interests. Some tour operators exhumed these bones and displayed them here deceiving their clients that this was a punishment island yet we know the actual story behind these Islands. We are shocked to note that some of the remains here are taken away by witchdoctors,” he said.
Tourism department speaks out Richard Munezero, the Tourism Officer for Kisoro district said that his department has already taken note of the unique tourism product on this lake.
“We visited the site upon hearing the
story of mummification and realized that it was true since we found some of the bones attached to the skins. As a district, we avowed that this could be a unique product and we have already started the process of gazetting it as a tourism site. We have already put up a sign post to direct tourists to the area,” said Munezero, adding that together with the Uganda Tourism Board and the Ministry of Tourism, they have already started the process of modifying the area and upgrading it to better standards.
“We are now in the process of getting archeologists who will document the actual story around this site with detailed professional information and analysis then we shall market this site with an improved approach,” he added.
Archeologist picks interest Ruth Tibesasa, a field archaeologist whose research interests are late Stone Age and early farming communities of Eastern Africa and PhD in Archaeology holder from the University of Pretoria has already picked interest in this site.
Tibesasa, a lecturer at Kabale University said that she has already developed a concept note that will see her profile the site in a professional manner.
“I will be working to determine the number of years some of these remains have spent on the site and the time when the people buried here could have lived. I will also be interested in bringing forward a strategy that will see communities sharing an informed story on the importance of conserving this site,” said Tibesasa.
She hopes to start her archeological journey in this place early next year.
Mummies may not literally rise from their ancient tombs and attack, but they’re quite real and have a fascinating history.Some of the remains believed to be of ancient Bahinza on display at Lake Mutanda (Photo by Job Namanya)
A mummy is a person or animal whose body has been dried or otherwise preserved after death. When people think of a mummy, they often envision the early Hollywood-era versions of human forms wrapped in layers upon layers of bandages, arms outstretched as they slowly shuffle forward. Mummies may not literally rise from their ancient tombs and attack, but they’re quite real and have a fascinating history.
The practice of preserving a body as a mummy is widespread across the globe and throughout time. Many civilizations—Incan, Australian aboriginal, Aztec, African, ancient European and others—have practiced some type of mummification for thousands of years to honor and preserve the bodies of the dead.
Mummification rituals varied by culture, and it is thought that some cultures
mummified all their citizens. Others reserved the rite of passage for the wealthy or people of status. Since most bacteria cannot thrive in extreme temperatures, exposing a corpse to the sun, fire or freezing temperatures was an uncomplicated way to create a mummy. Some mummies happened by accident. Take, for instance, the Accidental Mummies of Guanajuato, a collection of over 100 mummies found buried in above-ground crypts in Mexico. Those bodies were not mummified on purpose. It is thought either extreme heat or the area’s rich geological stores of sulfur and other minerals spurred the mummification process.
Some Buddhist monks practiced selfmummification by spending years starving their bodies and only eating foods that promoted decay. Once their body fat was gone, they spent a few more years drinking a poisonous sap to cause vomiting to get rid of bodily fluids. The poison also made the body an unsavory future host for corpse-eating bugs.
When the time was right, the monks were buried alive to await death and mummification. Death came quickly, but self-mummification seldom worked.
No matter how a body was mummified, the end game was the preservation of as much skin tissue as possible—and the priests of ancient Egypt are considered the experts on the process. Egypt’s arid climate made it easy to dry out and mummify a corpse, but the Egyptians routinely used a more elaborate process to ensure the dead experienced safe passage to the afterlife.
The mummification process for royalty and the wealthy often included: washing the body, removing all organs except the heart and placing them in jars and packing the body and organs in salt to remove moisture. Embalming the body with resins and essential oils such as myrrh, cassia, juniper oil and cedar oil was also part of the process. The process further included wrapping the embalmed corpse in several layers of linen.
Christine Ntahe is a veteran journalist who worked for the Burundi state broadcaster for 30 years and now considered to be one of the gold hearted women Burundi has ever had. At 74 years, she feeds more than 200 orphans and street children every Sunday lunch time.
Christine Ntahe aka Mama Dimanche which literary means Mama Sunday, she was named Mama Dimanche by the street children who often came for lunch at her home every Sunday.
“The meal of sharing every Sunday I consider it as my way to thank God that am alive, people go to church every Sunday but I decided to feed children so that they can at least forget about the rotten food or left overs they go for in the streets,” said Ms. Ntahe.
Born in 1949 in Bujumbura province Ms. Ntahe lost her father at a very early age (13), since the death of her father she lived in the most difficult conditions as she narrates, she says that as the result of living in a poor life
she couldn’t complete her studies. Due to the hard and challenging life she went through after losing her father, it gave her an experience on how life is like for the street kids and those living without their parents.
It was in 1969 when she was at 20 years of age when Ms. Ntahe joined the Burundi National Radio (RTNB), after ten years at the state broadcaster she initiated children’s program on the radio “Tuganirizibibondo” (talk with children) where children could voice their concerns and stories that surrounded them and the life they lived in during that period.
Ms. Ntahe a mother of four children became a widow in 1992 after spending 21 years in marriage.
As she spent 20 years producing kid’s program on the national radio, she knew the challenges and difficulties Burundi children faced and it was until 1994 when she started feeding orphans and street children every Sunday when the country experienced a brutal civil war between the Hutu and the Tutsi ethnic groups that claimed thousands of lives.
“Children need love with no exception from those living on the streets… they need to feel like other people and if not taken good care of they can be easily manipulated or tempted to commit crimes,” said Ms. Ntahe.
Her journalism career at the state broadcaster came to an end in 1999, she says that she was naturally attached to orphans and street kids who needed support.
She said as most of Christians go to church on Sundays, for her she dedicated the day to feed children at her home and interact with while giving them life advices.
Ms.Ntahe believes that God provides her with what she can feed these children every Sunday, she says in most cases good Samaritans bring her food or clothes to help the children in need. Christine Ntahe won awards both on national and international level, she was selected among the 1000 peace women across the globe. In 2022 Christine Ntahe was handed to head the country’s Red Cross.
Not only she provides them with meal, but she has taken a few back to school.
My first trip from Kampala to Bujumbura was fun-filled. It was back in 2007 when I was much younger, more energetic and fun-loving. I travelled using private means, with a fun group of friends and colleagues.
Travelling through Rwanda, the entire journey took us less than 18 hours to make it to the former Burundian capital city.
So, when I recently decided to take another road trip to Bujumbura, but this time via Tanzania, I was ill-prepared for the 27-hour odyssey that awaited me.
On a self-driving trip, the journey from Kampala to Bujumbura via Kigali (722 kilometers) takes about 11 hours while the Tanzanian route (788 kilometers) is about 14 hours — other factors remaining constant.
My journey began from Namayiba Bus Park in Kampala just a few minutes before midnight. We would be in Bujumbura by 6 pm the following evening, management of Sunlait Friends bus, my means of transport on this journey, had assured me earlier.
At 05hrs we made it to Mutukula, the Uganda-Tanzania border post where clearance at Immigration set us back about two hours. Mutukula is located approximately 211 kilometers southwest of Uganda’s capital Kampala.
As we re-boarded the bus after getting the green light from Immigration, I took notice of my neighbour for the first time, a young man who togged out in a damaged pair of jeans, a muscle-hugging white t-shirt, and a cowboy hat and with a guitar at the ready. I think he thought he was Carlos Santana. Another stop at Nsunga, a trading centre deep inside Tanzania, increased our journey time by yet another 40 or so minutes. But our time here didn’t entirely go to waste; we used it to buy some snacks, munch on them, and generally answer nature’s call.
Tanzania is such a vast and sparsely inhabited country — so much that you can drive up to 100 kilometres in the middle of nowhere, without encountering a passing vehicle, without seeing any signs of human activity anywhere.
It’s like driving through an Italian village during fiesta. Nothing stirred. The sun beat down. It was all quiet. But Carlos Santana made sure that that wasn’t the case inside the bus: when he wasn’t talking nonstop at the top of his voice, he would either be playing some lousy music on his cheap Techno smartphone or strumming some uncoordinated patterns on his guitar. He was a true source of unwarranted noise that I felt like kicking him out of the bus.
And with nothing scenic (almost only acacia trees prevail in the western plains of Tanzania), the journey was even made worse by the intermittently rickety, unpaved roads that compelled our driver to drive at a snail’s pace, further increasing our travel time.
At around 14hrs we arrived at Kobero, the one-stop Tanzania-Burundi border post, and I thought we would actually make it to Bujumbura by 18hrs like I had been promised before we left Kampala. But that was not to be the case for some reasons I couldn’t fathom.
Somehow, it took us up to five hours to clear with Immigration and Customs yet this is one of the least busy border posts in the region. “Burundians just don’t have respect for time,” someone told me.
We left the border after 19hrs to begin on the final 236 kilometers, 6-hour stretch to Bujumbura City (the snaking roads in
this hilly part of Burundi means you can’t drive fast), a journey that was maddeningly disrupted by the several (I counted up to seven) unwarranted roadblocks.
What were the police at the roadblocks looking for? “This is East Africa, they just need something ‘kidogo’ (Swahili for small),” offered Carlos Santana.
When we arrived in Bujumbura shortly after 02hrs, I was warned not to venture outside the bus park lest I got arrested or mugged. With all the tiredness and backlog of sleep, it quickly dawned on me that I was going to spend the remaining hours of the cold night on the immobile bus.
As the coldness intensified with the progressing night, I wondered why I was doing all this just in the name of adventure. What was I up to? Is this normal bahaviour for someone deep in his thirties?
I thought about my friends and former friends, many of them married with children and “sensible jobs”. I wondered if I should also begin to behave with a little sophistication, if I should be acting my age.
But when I saw the first rays of the sun a few hours later, I decided that I should mind my business, picked myself up, and went out to book myself a hotel room. After a much-needed relaxation, I caught up with an old friend with whom I took a walk to one of Bujumbura’s quaint beaches for a drink and a bit of camaraderie.
As we looked over the calm waters of the mighty Lake Tanganyika, drinks in hand and a cool breeze engulfing us, it was such a good feeling to be back here after 12 years, albeit in retrospect. Surely, this place had caught me.
What were the police at the roadblocks looking for?
“This is East Africa, they just need something ‘kidogo’ (Swahili for small),” offered Carlos Santana.
For a straight line distance of 5,249 kilometers apart, across the Equator, Arabian Sea and Indian Ocean, a small army embarked on a life conquering battle between two continents. In conventional military service the decorated generals are usually battle-hardened hard core exemplified humans who rise through the ranks with a gruesome, intense training. From the legendary African warriors of Shaka Zulu in Southern Africa, Mau Mau in Kenya, Ethiopians’ resistance against colonial rule. Legends, heroines and heroes have risen such as Dedan Kimathi , Nelson Mandela, Thomas Sankara, Martin Luther etc even when some never fired gun triggered bullets.
Heroes and heroines are not only battlefield names but also humanity (Ubuntu) enshrined in culture, morals and history books with relish and grandeur for generations to emulate. Most legends’ next of kin are probably still basking in glory shadows and privileges to-date.
Are you wondering why or whether am lamenting or praising heroes and heroines?
I am actually doing none of the above. However, I am trying to put on record a generational hero of modern times who has no military background nor experience. This human being hails from a small township of Butare (rock in English) in South Western Uganda, slightly below the Equator
“...what’s amazing is how they can give more than they get!”
line, Southern hemisphere of East Africa region on the African continent.
This Butare village is best known for its tea growing activities, it is an ordinary folks township on the highway linking the famous Bunyaruguru crater lakes to the Queen Elizabeth National park via Kazinga channel close to Uganda - Democratic Republic of Congo border. The civilian-hero-general is Kansiime Caleb.
Is there such a thing as a civilian general? Yes, there is. Dictionary by Merriam-Webster defines a civilian general as a person not on active duty in the armed services.
This Bushenyi - Butare legend Kansiime Caleb, in his late thirties gave up a vital organ of his body to save another soul. Precisely a kidney. Caleb is Married to a young queen Esther, both blessed by three children Shaun , Shaughan and Crystal. The couple live an average life of hustlers’ proportions but what’s amazing is how they can give more than they get!
Back to the hero general, Caleb, this dark skinned light hearted man donated his kidney
to Justus without any coercion, monetary gain or promise. The recipient, had a few months to live, apparently because of longstanding illness originating from blood sugar problems.
What’s more remarkable is the donor Caleb and his family even participated in a fundraising campaign for funds to support medical care in India to Justus for five months.
Caleb, Justus and his wife Doreen travelled to Rajagiri Hospital in Kochi, Kerala , India May 2022 and returned November 2022 after a successful kidney transplant. In a community WhatsApp group formed by friends, workmates and wellwishers to contribute support for medical care, the donor and recipient kept morale high by sharing updates of what transpired and religious notes of hope with faith.
General Caleb is deserving of the highest possible reward, rank and medal there is in this world, so going forward I move a humanitarian motion to have this “hero civilian general of Butare and Rajagiri” given a well-deserved chance to inspire more troops into such causes of selfless service to humanity.
As the world becomes increasingly interconnected, the cultures and traditions of various regions are no longer isolated. Through the internet and social media, we are exposed to different cultures and artistic expressions from all over the world. As much as technology is a good tool to preserve and uphold these cultures, it has also been a catalyst to their demise. What are the old and new trends? What are the dying and emerging trends? How can we preserve the dying arts and ensure they grow alongside or serve as an inspiration to the emerging ones? These are just some of the numerous pertinent questions that we seek to explore.
Traditional Dance Forms
Traditional dance forms have been a significant part of African culture for centuries. However, with the influence of Western culture and globalisation, the younger generation is increasingly moving away from traditional dance forms. This trend has led to the loss of cultural identity and heritage, as the knowledge of these traditional dances is not being passed on to future generations.
For instance, the Masai dance, a traditional dance of the Masai people in Kenya, is dying out due to the younger generation’s lack of interest in it. The dance is a unique form of expression and a significant part of the Masai culture. To preserve this dying art, it is essential to create awareness and educate the younger generation on the importance of traditional dance forms. By promoting traditional dance forms through various cultural events, music festivals, and dance competitions, younger generations can learn to appreciate their cultural heritage and keep these forms of art alive.
Traditional crafts such as basket weaving, pottery, and beadwork are also dying out in many African communities. The younger generation is more interested in modern crafts and technologies, which has led to a decline in the demand for traditional crafts. This trend has also led to the loss of cultural heritage, as many traditional crafts are unique to specific communities and are not being passed on to future generations.
The Igbo people of Nigeria have a unique art form called “Uli”. Uli is a form of body painting and wall art, and it is a vital aspect of Igbo culture. However, the younger generation is not interested in this art form, and it is gradually dying out. To preserve Uli and other traditional crafts, it is essential to promote and celebrate these art forms through cultural festivals, exhibitions and workshops. By doing this, the younger generation can learn to appreciate these art forms and keep them alive.
Traditional music is another aspect of African culture that is slowly dying out. Western music has gained popularity in Africa, and many young people prefer it to traditional music. This trend has led to the loss of cultural identity and heritage, as traditional music is an essential part of African culture and history.
Take a look at the Kalangu drum; a traditional percussion instrument used by the Hausa people of Nigeria. However, the younger generation is not interested in this instrument, and it is gradually dying out. To preserve this dying art, it is essential to promote traditional music through cultural events, music festivals, and music education in schools. By doing this, the younger generation can learn to appreciate traditional music and keep it alive.
Digital art is an emerging trend in the global arts and culture scene. With the advancements in technology, artists can create digital art pieces that are innovative and unique. Digital art is gaining popularity among younger generations, and it is becoming an important aspect of modern art.
Laolu Senbanjo is a Nigerian digital artist who uses digital technology to create stunning art pieces. His art has gained international recognition and he has collaborated with top brands such as Nike and Beyonce. By embracing digital art, African artists can create innovative works and reach a wider audience. This trend also provides an opportunity for traditional artists to adapt their art forms to the digital world.
Fusion music is a popular trend in the global music scene. This genre combines different styles of music to create a unique sound that appeals to a diverse audience. Fusion music is gaining popularity in Africa, and it provides an opportunity for African musicians to showcase their talent to the world.
The South African band, Freshlyground, is known for their fusion of different styles of music, including African folk, pop, and jazz. The band has gained international recognition and has collaborated with top musicians such as Shakira. By embracing fusion music, African musicians can create a unique sound that reflects their culture and appeals to a global audience.
Street art is an emerging trend in the global art scene. This genre involves creating art in public spaces such as streets, buildings, and walls. Street art is gaining popularity in Africa, and it provides an opportunity for artists to express themselves in public spaces.
For example, Nkosikhona Ngcobo, a South African artist, is known for his street art, which is inspired by the social and political issues in South Africa. By creating art in public spaces, artists can raise awareness of social issues and express their creativity to a wider audience.
To preserve dying arts and promote emerging trends, it is essential to create awareness and educate the younger generation about the importance of arts and culture. This can be achieved through various initiatives, such as:
Cultural festivals provide a platform for artists to showcase their talent and promote their art forms. These festivals can also be used to educate the younger generation about the importance of arts and culture and promote traditional art forms. Most schools in Kenya held music festival competitions where a diverse representation of traditional forms of music and dances were performed by the pupils. This was a great way to preserve the culture in the young people.
Art workshops and training provide an opportunity for younger generations to learn about traditional art forms and develop their skills in modern art forms. By providing training and mentorship, we can preserve traditional art forms and promote
