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YO U R B U S I N E S S PA RT N E R F O R D O M E S T I C & D U T Y F R E E M A R K E T S WO R L D W I D E

export.magazine@mteedizioni.it

THE INTERNET GUIDE TO THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY WORLDWIDE

exportmagazine.net

I N T E R N E T

N. 8 / 2018 - bimestrale - mte Edizioni s.r.l. - Via r. gessi 28 - 20146 Milano - Tariffa R.O.C.: Poste Italiane s.p.a. Spedizione in abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB - Modena - €7 In caso di mancato recapito inviare al CPO MODENA per la restituzione previo pagamento resi. - CONTIENE SUPPLEMENTO

MAKE–UP THAT COMBINES COLOR AND SKIN CARE FUNCTIONS IN ONE

TFWA Cannes > Stand H46 – GREEN VILLAGE

 Suitable for sensitive skins  Hypoallergenic formula*  Conceived with functional active ingredients  Nickel tested  Heavy Metal tested  Paraben Free  Recycable packaging  Technologically advanced manufacturing standard  Maximum quality and safety * products formulated to minimize allergy risks

Cosmoprof Hong Kong > stand 1E – D2A

S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. - Via della Liberazione 56 - 20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) Italy Tel. +39 02.98.280.925 (6 lines a.r.) - www.sirpea.com - info@sirpea.com

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is a brand of H.S.A. S.p.A, 2 GUUDCURE www.hsacosmetics.com - made in italy


THE HEALTHY AGEING AND CLEAN BEAUTY SKIN CARE BRAND A natural and healthy ageing process and the use of “clean” products, with ingredients that pose no hazard to human health nor the environment, makes GUUDCURE the good care for skin.

POLLUTION FREE The complete anti-pollution range with Zeolite protecting the skin from polluting agents and impurities with a preventive anti-ageing action.

AGE BALANCE

The latest generation anti-ageing skincare system with a double action: rebalancing the skin thanks to pre and probiotics that prevent ageing, and correcting particular skin damages with targeted active ingredients.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY INDIA Mumbai – 1-2 October / WABEL Paris – 10-11 October / COSMOPROF ASIA Hong Kong – 14-16 November Discover the complete range on guudcure.com or shop.guudcure.com

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Advertisers’ index 10-11

On the cover: I-Care, the advanced make up from S.I.R.P.E.A., Milan N. 8 ANNO XXXVIII OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 2018 OTTOBRE / NOVEMBRE 2018 BIMONTHLY CONTIENE SUPPLEMENTO DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano n. 85 del 16/02/1991 Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena Printing: Formagrafica s.r.l. - Carpi (MO)

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Transvital

42-43

Sentéales

46-47

Mi-Rê

48

Divage

82

M: PLUS Cosmetics

86

Agatho

98-99

Teaology

16 88-89

EVENTS Cosme Tokyo China Beauty Expo 2019

6/8

INTERVIEW Filorga: G. Ledème

12/15

Diego dalla Palma: M. Caivano

18-19

Payot: M.L.Simonin-Braun

30-31

Collistar: D. Sacerdote

38-39

Deborah: M. Migues

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Coin: R. Corte

64-65

Astra: S.F. Zadeh

66/68

Art Cosmetics: P. Accardo

72-73

Cosmetica Italia: R. Ancorotti

74-75

Confalonieri Matite: L. Confalonieri

84-85

Mila Moursi: Mila Moursi

100-101

Art Director Teresa Tibaldi

Bellaoggi: P. Micera – A. Ripari

Managing Editor Giuseppe Tirabasso

20 24 26/28 32 44 50 52

LAUNCH Renato Balestra B FNKY DSquared2 Collistar Dimensione Uomo Enrico Coveri Nouba

Editor-in-chief Claudia Stagno E-mail: export.magazine@mteedizioni.it

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REPORT Beautystreams

Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl Via Romolo Gessi, 28 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/48.95.23.05 Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: mteedizi@mteedizioni.it

Consultants Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom Francesca Bonelli - Roberto Cimarosa Valerie Kaminov - Rebecca Lazzari Joan Rundo - Simona Verga Catherine Wrenn P.R. Promotion Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni

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COMPANY Le Couvent des Minimes

Astra Beauty Eurasia Beauty Istanbul Beautystreams Bellaoggi CBE Collistar Cosme Tokyo Cosmobeauté Cosmoprof Asia Cosmoprof Bologna Cosmetech Deborah Diego dalla Palma Divage Enrico Coveri Farmeco Filorga Genny Giorgio Janeke Guudcure HSA I-Care Intercharm Moscow Layla Cosmetics LuxePack Make-up in… Mane M: PLUS Cosmetics Mercedes Benz MI-RE Nouba Payot Sentéales The First Transvital

59-61/63 60 93 97 III-104 87 29 58 102 69 25 91 Insert – IV II-1 49 51 70-71 9 21 37 2-3 76-77 Cover-36 90 78/8 92 81 33 83 5 45 53 17 41 54/57 23


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INTERVIEW

FILORGA

© Photo: Michael Adelo

continues its excellent results on major international markets with plans for further expansion

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Filorga continues its unstoppable progression on international markets. Can we say that this progression has been continuing for some years now? GUILLAUME LEDEME: Yes, year-to-date June, there has been a progression of 45% of Filorga total sales. And 2017 was also a very good year with 75% growth. We expect to end the year with a minimum of 50% overall growth, so we can indeed speak of constant growth. The French market also continues to show a good performance with a rate of growth of around 30%; logically the international market is growing faster than the domestic one: in 2017 the international market doubled its turnover, so there was an evolution

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INTERVIEW WITH GUILLAUME LEDEME FILORGA INTERNATONAL DIRECTOR

of 100% and for 2018 we expect a growth of 60%. EM: Is the great success in France reinforcing brand awareness in the whole world? GL: In France we started with an all-round media plan which has had a very strong impact on sales and on brand awareness. This very powerful media plan, which was implemented three years ago and which increases each year, includes the press, television, radio, outdoor and digital advertising. We have also developed a strong media plan in Italy and Spain, for the second year, where we have covered all media except TV for the time being. In these two countries, the growth is strongest as the brand was launched later.

EM: In China, Filorga is an example of a great performance of a foreign cosmetic brand. What are the main reasons for your success? GL: We have succeeded in creating ‘hero products’. We started with ‘Optim-Eyes’ and ‘Meso-Mask’, we then added a third hero, ‘Time Filler Eyes’. These products were incredibly successful in China, to the point that Meso-Mask even has a nickname in Chinese: ‘chichouentabù’, which means “marvellous decoction”. In the family of brightening products, Meso-Mask is highly appreciated because it gives radiance and leaves skin smoother,with a fresh and natural appearance. It is a product that is perceived as magic. The first point therefore is having been able to build up a brand on very strong products which have become legendary in China, and the second point is that we have a strategy that is very well adapted to the Chinese market, with a majority of sales on the web, 65% of the total turnover, whereas offline sales represent 35%. We have been able to adapt very well to the Chinese digital world which today is the most advanced country at global level, well ahead of the United States on the practices and effects of e-commerce on the population.

For offline distribution, we are present in perfumeries and in travel retail. We are present in 600 perfumeries, i.e. in the highest quality chains. For the department stores, we are going to accentuate our presence in Hong Kong where we began, and we have had a first presence in a department store in Wuhan since June and in a few months we will be opening in Beijing and in Shanghai. In our strategy, it is very important to combine online and offline, because one feeds the other, on different aspects. Thanks to the structure of our distribution, we have reached today an exceptional growth, and we are organized at the level of production to be able to meet the demand for products. China will triple its turnover this year; last year it had done time 6, this time time 3; it has become the second subsidiary after France and ahead of Italy, thanks to its fantastic growth rate. As far as communication is concerned, we will invest massively in the second half of this year in digital supports, like Wechat and Tmall, both directly and through bloggers, with whom we are working closely in China. We will also be investing in other media supports.


INTERVIEW

Duty free Toulouse

EM: What structure do you have in China? GL: Our subsidiary is based in Beijing and we are opening two other offices, the first in Shanghai, to be closer to our clients. The Chinese team, which will have a staff of 100 before the end of the year, is 100% Chinese with very close collaboration with the head office and the management based in Hong Kong and Paris; all the key people in the team speak English to have daily exchanges; we also organize events in France for China, with the next one now in September. When there are major events in China, one or two people from the head office attend.

We have a very strong collaboration with Alibaba locally and with all the Chinese Internet groups; Alibaba is also very active in Europe, organizing many events to make itself known and to work as closely as possible with the brands. EM: Have you or are you opening other interesting markets? GL: One important element this year is that we are going to open in duty free in Korea, the first duty free market in the world; we already have anticipations of very strong development, thanks again to the influence of Chinese consumers. We are opening our Russian Affiliate now, after opening our Mexican one early this year.

EM: How do you succeed in winning such a large share of consumers? GL: Filorga is a brand which has been able to succeed all over the world without exception with consumers having different habits; we are well rooted in Europe: France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Switzerland and Portugal; we are the leader in treatment in Scandinavia, we are very strong in English-speaking countries, in Russia and in Canada. In Asia, China is at the head and we are being well established in many other countries in the Middle East and in South America. Filorga is one of the only brands today that has succeeded in all the different channels of distribution. In France for example, it is present in pharmacies and in perfumeries and in the three best-known retailers: Marionnaud, Nocibé-Douglas and Séphora. We have a successful experience in digital, in China; we have entered department stores, although more recently, which is an important future channel of development for the brand. To sum up, Filorga has imposed itself as a high-performing brand and at ease in very different circuits, always in the selective and, of course, in duty free. EM: Does the fact of being a French brand help on markets internationally? GL: Of course, there is an asset in being a French brand, France has been considered for a long time as the cradle of cosmetics, however today being a French brand is far from enough, it also has to be high performing, close to its consumers, capable of meeting their concerns.

EM: The presence of Filorga in duty free is increasingly important, what is your strategy regarding this network of distribution? GL: Travel Retail is an even younger activity for Filorga, as we really started in 2017. But we do have an amazing potential that is currently demonstrated in figures: this year we are going to triple our sales. In Airports, we are supported by our historical partner Lagardère Travel Retail, with whom we began on the French market and since then extended the distribution to Italy, Switzerland,…; two years ago, we also started working with DFS on Hong Kong and we are now looking to expand the distribution internationally with the LVMH owned operator. Overall, as of today, Filorga is listed in 22 airports in Europe. We also have very recently started a partnership with Dufry in Toulouse, and we are contemplating a possible extension in many interesting countries; we began with IDF at Brussels airport in May. We are present on a certain number of airlines, Air France, Alitalia, Iberia, Singapore Airlines, Royal Air Maroc, to name a few. In China we are on all the Chinese companies, with a great exposure of the brand. The on-board sales of the main products - Optim-Eyes, Time-Filler, Meso-Mask, Hydrayal – are very strong. We are having talks with many other airlines. As I was saying, one of our most important objectives this year is to open the Korean duty-free market. We also want to be able to extend our collaboration with Dufry and DFS, and to work with the

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INTERVIEW

Heinemann Group on important markets such as Germany, Russia, Scandinavia, and Northern Europe in general, where Filorga has leading positions in the local markets. EM: Will you be launching other products? GL: Definitely. We have just

launched, in September, the ‘Makeup Actif ’ range; these are the first steps for Filorga in make-up; this line represents a real development of the brand. EM: There is another piece of news to announce… GL: Yes, about the brand ‘Le Couvent des Minimes’ which we

bought 18 months ago from the L’Occitane group. Today, we are launching the Brand on a magnificent concept of affordable high level vegan perfumes. The Brand will tell the story of an incredible man, Louis Feuillet, the botanist of King Louis XIV who lived at the Couvent des Minimes and

who was, at the same time, a great traveller and passionate botanist. All products of Le Couvent des Minimes will be vegan. EM: That’s very interesting, we will be speaking at greater length about Couvent des Minimes in another section of our magazine.

FILORGA: MAKE-UP TO LOOK NATURALLY PERFECT Filorga, already a phenomenon with its skin care products, ventures into make-up with the first ever range of Medi-Cosmétique active make-up, for an immediate and long-term flawless bare skin effect. Medi-Cosmetique® is the first line of anti-ageing skincare based on the family of ingredients used in the injections which for over 35 years Laboratoires Filorga have developed for top aesthetic doctors, dermatologists and plastic surgeons. With Medi-Cosmetique®, Filorga is developing anti-ageing skincare formulated with active ingredients that have so far been reserved for injections, notably

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NCTF® (New Cellular Treatment Factor), a unique bio-revitalizing cocktail of over 50 ingredients and medical weight hyaluronic acid. Flash-Nude Skincare is the innovative range of hybrid products that continues the success of Time-Flash, the double-speed smoothing primer launched in January 2018. Three new products are quick and easy to use and offer immediate and lasting perfection: the perfect fusion of Filorga’s expertise in aesthetic treatments, cutting-edge technology and

fast make-up application techniques. The three-step routine comprises smoothing, unifying and perfecting. Time-Flash Express Smoothing Active Primer with a Photoshop, wrinkle-free effect or Pore Express Pore-blurring mattifying primer can be used as the first step of smoothing. To unify the complexion, Flash-Nude /Fluid) is an exceptional tinted fluid suitable for all skin types and available in three shades that immediately offers adjustable coverage and in the long term has a lasting multi-correction action on the complexion. Lastly, Flash-Nude (powder), an HD finish universal powder perfecting is ideal for perfecting the complexion thanks to blur technology and giving lasting multi-correction for skin texture, evenness and radiance.

C.S.


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COMPANYARTISTIC PERFUMERY

LE COUVENT DES MINIMES the art of singular perfume A convent, a botanist and vegan: the unlikely ingredients of a brand which has recently arrived on the market

The Couvent des Minimes, a place of science and spirituality, was founded in 1614 in Haute-Provence and was home to an exceptional man, Louis FeuillĂŠe, court botanist to King Louis XIV of France who set off on long voyages to seek out rare species of plants. It is his discoveries that inspired the creation of a brand of unique and contemporary luxury fragrances, made using natural noble and rare ingredients, 100% vegan. His exploration of the four corners of the world have been taken as an invitation to travel and discover his story, one of adventure,

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incredible places and remarkable botanical discoveries. As the Couvent des Minimes is a place where fauna and flora have always coexisted peacefully with humankind in unspoilt nature, the brand’s formulations could only be green and 100% vegan. With a preference for botanical essences and noble, natural materials, disputed chemical substances are kept at a distance.

Vegan formulations means strictly no exploitation of animals, so no honey, no beeswax, no natural amber or other ingredients from animals which are often used in perfumery. The vegan rule also prohibits testing on animals. This philosophy is at the basis of Couvent des Minimes products and gives the brand new energy to reimagine the art of formulating everything from perfumes to skin care products., stimulating creativity and expanding boundaries. In a word, the vision of veganism as a new luxury. The Couvent des Minimes products are certified 100% vegan by the Vegan Society. The Couvent des Minimes philosophy is also based on five golden rules for the art of creating unique fragrances: the formulations are unique and never standardized; the spotlight is on rare, noble and natural essences; the fragrances are crafted in line with the traditions of


French haute perfumeries, the formulas are 100% vegan and the products are offered at affordable process. A team of French perfumers has gathered around Hervé Gambs, a specialist of niche fragrances and the brand’s director of olfactory creation, to create these new, green and original products. Louis Feuillée has inspired the brand’s Parfums Remarquables, five exclusive fragrances from five exclusive destination: Porto Bello, Fort Royal, Santa Cruz, Valparaiso and Smyrna, recalling the places the botanist mapped on his voyages of discovery and exploration. The Colognes Botaniques evoke the gardens of the Couvent des Minimes, with Aqua Minimes, Aqua Mysteri, Aqua Solis, Aqua Paradisi and Aqua Sacrae, all made from floral essences, infused plants and plant absolutes. Hand creams, soaps and body washes are also available in the same fragrances. Unique fragrances for the home have been inspired by Louis Feuillée’s sojourns at the Court in Versailles: Louis Feuillée, Rose Aegnigma, Ebenus Nobilis and Herba Mystica are candles and home fragrances that evoke the exceptional surroundings of the royal abode. Le Couvent des Minimes is also a line of skin care for an extraordinary ritual, using only the finest botanical oils with exceptional properties and blended together in perfect synergy: Botanicum Dulcis, Remarkable Body Scrub; Tanicum Oleum, Remarkable Balm and Botanicum Oleum, Remarkable Oil.

Recipes based on the convent’s medicinal garden plants have inspired Mythic Balms: Gardinarius, a hand cream,

Via Domini, a foot cream and Amorem, a new vegan, hypoallergenic cosmetic cream to calm even the driest and most sensitive skin.

COUVENT DES MINIMES THE HIGHEST STANDARDS OF A “NICHE BRAND”,WITH A MORE ACCESSIBLE PRICE GUILLAUME LEDEME EXPLAINS TO US THE DISTRIBUTION PLANS OF ‘LE COUVENT DES MINIMES’ EXPORT MAGAZINE: What type of distribution have you planned for ‘Le Couvent des Minimes’? GUILLAUME LEDEME: We are speaking about one of the first green and vegan brands in the field of fragrances. We are currently doing a magnificent launch, which started in September with a totally exclusive distribution. We have signed an agreement with a European launch with Marionnaud for France, Switzerland and Austria; with Douglas for Germany, Italy, Spain, the Netherlands and Poland. Our Japanese Le Couvent Affiliate just launched the brand in Tokyu Plaza Ginza, one of the most prestigious shopping shopping areas in Japan, and also in Fruit Gathering. Following that, we have planned various launches outside Europe, including in Mexico at the prestigious Palacio de Hierro Department Store and in various countries in the Middle East. Distribution will be exclusively in the channel of perfumery and department stores. In Hong Kong, an important showcase for China and the whole of the Asian market, we will be present in the most selective department stores. In terms of price, the brand positioning will be of the ‘neo-niche’ type, i.e. we are offering the highest quality both of the fragrances and of the packaging, typical of a niche brand, at more affordable prices. The collection of ‘Parfums Remarquables’ will have a price of euro 89 for 100 ml. We are convinced that there will be a fine future for a brand based on quality and on a certain form of accessibility. We are not differing from the philosophy of Filorga; we know that Filorga presents premium products that are effective, pleasant to use and well-presented and always at an affordable price if we consider their content that is of a very high quality. We are already talking to Lagardère, and we believe it is interesting to privilege one or two key points in France, namely Paris and Nice, from the beginning. C.S.

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INTERVIEW

Diegodynamism dalla Palma and creativity to spread

the culture of Italian beauty in the world Interview with MICOL CAIVANO, CEO of Diego dalla Palma

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Diego dalla Palma is a brand with roots that are deeply linked to Italian culture in the world of beauty. What are the values that the brand succeeds in transferring abroad? MICOL CAIVANO: The Italian character of the brand can be seen in every product, in every image and in every place, starting from the historical makeupstudio in the heart of the Brera district in Milan: an intimate and sophisticated lounge where Italian beauty is an art.

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We export not only products but we spread the culture of the Italian art of make-up: glamour, essentiality, elegance and design, minimalism and creativity out of the box. Colours, formulas and textures are all made in Italy. Our make-up artists are artists of make-up who spread the Diego dalla Palma culture all over the world: led by Gianluca Oddi, international beauty ambassador of the brand, they show our clients

and distributors not only how to use the product and its peculiarities, but teach them to spread art and beauty through using the product. We are certain that abroad the brand is appreciated for the quality of the products and also for the image that has always distinguished our communication: the paradox is in our DNA, the essentiality of black and white, the explosion of colours, the irony of our images, the eye-catching phrases that attract the consumer, but above all the new concept of beauty of which the brand is a representative: the diego woman is imperfect, like all women in the world and she brings out her imperfections by making them her strong point. EM: In addition to make-up, what are the other fronts on which Diego dalla Palma focuses? MC: Diego dalla Palma is a company that operates all-round in the world of beauty. Make-up has always been the heart of the brand’s business, but in the past few years it has opened up to new fronts.

In 2010, we entered the hair sector with line which is giving us great satisfaction; the turning-point came in 2015 when we decide to open up a path in the world of skincare, an area where we have lengthy expertise. The line came into being with a total of about fifteen references, in two years we doubled them, riding on the wave of success o lour formulations appreciated by consumers who have found invaluable allies in our products for their skincare and an answer to all their requirements. Last year at TFWA 2017 we presented our gem of a serum, Gold Infusion, a real potion of youth which is the result of balancing 30 beneficial natural oils and pure gold leaf, to help the regeneration of the skin and offer a more even, fresher and more radiant appearance. Consumers have appreciated this product and in the wake of this trend we have also launched the cream of youthfulness on the market and, last month, we enriched the line with an eye contour product.


INTERVIEW

The efficacy of the line is stringently tested with visible and proven results, the performances of the products will win over consumers everywhere in the world. We will also be presenting the new SS 2018 collection. It is a collection which is directly inspired by one of the most famous and characteristic regions of Italy: Sicily. A world of sensations, traditions culture and Mediterraneanness which is found in every product through the shades of the blue of the sea, the delicate colours of the frangipane flowers and the inebriating fragrances that can be smelt along the roads in Sicily.

The Gold Infusion line

These products are certified by Ecocert and have high performances which revitalize consumers’ skin. diegodallapalma is the brand that brings together the three fronts of cosmetics, to be close to women in all their beauty. EM: What are the new products you are presenting at the Tax Free World Exhibition in Cannes?

MC: There is a lot going on in 2018 with trendy products, positive growth and great satisfaction. We are coming to TFWA with a new skincare line, on which we have worked for several months and on which we are staking a great deal: the PETAL GLOW AGE line, inspired by the concept of ageing well, the art of facing up to the passing of time bringing out the nest of yourself at any age. This new line makes the most

of the beauty of every woman, offering the face a look of new youth thanks to the action of the JALUROSE CPX complex which combines the plumping action of hyaluronic acid with the brightening action of oligosaccharides of Damascus rose, the queen of flowers, symbol of elegance and eternal beauty. There are three products: plumping cream, infusion of radiance and a multi-radiance mask.

EM: What are your main channels of distribution, for the various lines? MC: Diego dalla Palma today is distributed in Italy in the selective channel with positive and double digit results, going against the trend of what is happening in the market. The export market has great potential and the brand has always had positive responses whenever it is presented to potential distributors or chains of distribution. The duty free sector has also shown interest in the brand and in recent months has been giving us great satisfaction in terms of turnover and visibility. From Europe to the Middle East, from South America to the Far East, from department stores to makeup studios and the international chains and duty free, the brand is distributed and appreciated for its sales potential and fully represents its place of origin: Italy. Diego dalla Palma is so highly appreciated because it offers a complete but compact professional line that can meet the needs of women from different countries.

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INTERVIEW

EM: You have been present in the duty free and inflight channels for a few years now: is this channel strategically, as well as commercially, important for your company? MC: Yes, the duty free and in-flight sector is relatively new for us and this year has seen the best successes: with the Lagardere and Dufry group we have had major openings in Italy in various airports including Naples, Rome and Venice and negotiations are also taking place with other international travel retailers to open other distribution channels (cruises, diplomatic stores) in Europe and Asia-Pacific.

The Foundation groupage

The brand is appreciated both by Italian and foreign passengers, once again we see confirmation of how the brand is appreciated by women from all over the world. In this are we offer attractive Travel Retail Exclusives which can be completely personalized and created ad hoc for each distribution situation. These new areas re giving us great satisfaction. The brand is highly appreciated and our willingness to create ad hoc kits has been rewarded with our inclusion by very many airlines: first of all Alitalia. We are present in the magazine Griffair, the RossoAlitalia kit created for flight attendants has been the best seller for many months and still is. We are present with professional products such as the contouring palette and personalized kits on other airlines such as Cathay Pacific, Iberia, Blue Panorama, Czech Airlines, Luxair, Eva Air and there are many negotiations currently under way. The SSP 2019 collection

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Our objective is to continue distributing the brand so that more and more people can appreciate its quality. We are only at the start of a long journey which we hope will continue to give us the great satisfactions we have had in recent years. EM: Your communication has always been very high impact. What do you principally want to convey to consumers, as well as the culture of a refined and trendy make-up? MC: Yes, the communication of Diego dalla Palma is particular and always succeeds in hitting the nail on the head. The campaigns never put themselves on a pedestal, they speak the same language as women. They have all the glamour of someone who never takes themselves too seriously because they don’t want to and don’t need to. Ironic, authentic and empathic: the communication of


INTERVIEW

Diego dalla Palma follows these three concepts for every new launch and promotion. Ironic because Diego dalla Palma never puts itself on a pedestal, the style is also recognized by knowing how to take life with lightness and the capacity to downplay things. Authentic because Diego dalla Palma does not speak of classic beauty. What for others is a “defect” for us is the element that distinguishes one woman from another. Empathic because all the Diego dalla Palma advertising campaigns tell a story. Every campaign comes into being as a game. It’s impossible not to notice it. The Petal Glow Age line

Claudia Stagno

Gianluca Oddi – the Diego dalla Palma international beauty ambassador International Beauty Ambassador for the brand Diego dalla Palma Milano, Gianluca Oddi is a multifaceted artist with a natural talent for bringing faces to life through his artistic flair and inspiration for make-up, portrait making and graphic illustrations. Gianluca approached the art of make up for the first time assisting senior make-up artists at Italian designers’ fashion shows: Laura Biagiotti, Fendi, Fausto Sarli, Giorgio Armani and Jenny. He started then a full time partnership with the Italian make-up brand Diego dalla Palma Milano as make-up artist, experiencing beauty events and participating in many co-marketing events with the Italian magazine Vogue Sposa, and the fashion runaways for the designers Dilek Hanif in Paris and CNC in Italy. Alongside the makeup Gianluca also started working as a graphic illustrator, designing artworks for the brand’s eye shadow palettes and events. After a few years he began working with the export team as International make-up artist for the brand, responsible for make up training management and events in Europe, Middle East, Africa, Asia and the Americas; it was a natural progression from there to become the official International Beauty Ambassador of the brand. A position built on his artistic experience where he was instrumental in rising awareness of the brand, in charge of communication with the international press and becoming the official ambassador for the brand’s partnership with Alitalia, as the co-creator and co-designer of the exclusive lipstick “rosso alitalia” and the official make up look for the Alitalia crew. Also key member of Diego dalla Palma’s product development team, analysing global trends in makeup and fashion to create new products to meet customers’ ever-changing needs and expectations.

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EVENTS

With much attention from the entire world, COSME TOKYO - Japan’s largest cosmetics show - returns from 30 January - 1 February 2019 in the Asia’s trend-setting country, Japan. As the great annual sourcing opportunity where everything about cosmetics are presented all together, including skin care, hair & body care, natural/organic products, makeup, fragrance, men’s care, etc.

COSME TOKYO ever growing as a Trendsetting Show in Asian Cosmetics Industry

The 2019 edition, Best Sourcing Venue for Japan & Worldwide Cosmetics COSME TOKYO has been growing ever since its launch in 2012, and the 2019 show is definitely not an exception. Gathering 780* exhibitors from 35* overseas countries in Asian countries, Europe, America, South-Africa, etc., the next edition is the largest and most diversified in the show’s history. Welcoming 25,000* visitors, undoubtedly the 2019 exhibition hall will be filled with the worldwide buyers and importers who are looking for the opportunities to enrich their lineups with the latest cosmetics.

“Made in Japan Cosmetics” attract Beauty Industry Professionals The most attractive feature of the show is, of course, Made in Japan cosmetics. Every year, a wide variety of Japanese cosmetics with the perfect match of tradition and innovation attract visitors from all over the world. Every year, international visitors are amazed by the exclusive brands they can only find in COSME TOKYO. Japanese cosmetics are globally popular for the high quality, reliability, cost performance, etc. while there are much more excellent products have to be known, especially products from small-and-medium sized manufacturers. Since the number of those companies is going to increase in COSME TOKYO 2019, it is the must-visit show for those who look for high quality Japanese cosmetics.

Explore the entire Asian Beauty Industry at once! By having two co-held shows, 2nd INNER BEAUTY TOKYO, focused on beauty & health foods, and 9th COSME Tech, covering all cosmetics development solutions like ingredients, OEM, packaging, the 2019 edition will attract a various professionals, ranged from buyers to researchers. This is the great opportunity to find out what Asian beauty is for professionals in the beauty business.

Register Now for Free Entry Don’t miss the attractive and unique cosmetics exhibited at COSME TOKYO 2019! Register here for free invitation tickets and updates, Free Visitors Ticket >> https://www.cosmetokyo.jp/en/inv/ Exhibiting Inquiry >> https://www.cosmetokyo.jp/en/ex/

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*expected, including co-held shows


BLUE TECHNI LISS SLOW DOWN THE SKIN AGING PROCESS [ [

[ ANTI-WRINKLES [ ANTI-BLUE LIGHT

#TIMEISONMYSIDE

SCAN ME ! To learn more about PAYOT

TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION www.payot.com

#payot

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MEET US AT BEACH VILLAGE 2 - BOOTH 14


INTERVIEW

PAYOT an audacious, authentic

and experience-driven brand INTERVIEW WITH MARIE-LAURE SIMONIN BRAUN, PAYOT CEO

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Do you have any major news to share about PAYOT’s presence at the Tax Free Show in Cannes this year? MARIE-LAURE SIMONIN BRAUN: This Tax Free show has a particular flavour for PAYOT. For the first time in its 100 years of history, the brand is experiencing travel-retail and duty-free business. It is a great premiere for us as we recently implemented PAYOT at the international airport of Moscow and in St. Petersburg. EM: Is the travel retail channel important for strengthening the image of the brand? MLSB: From a business perspective, travel retail offers a new opportunity for PAYOT, especially when the brand is strong on the domestic market. From a brand perspective, it’s an additional touch point with consumers that we aim to accompany during their journey. The brand offers its “must-have” and travel friendly products i.e. MY PAYOT BRUME ECLAT or MY PAYOT SLEEPING PACK. EM: Is travel retail the reflection of success on the domestic market? MLSB: The awareness of the brand on the domestic market remains a

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key factor of success as many DF shoppers are looking for best-sellers at a lower price. At PAYOT we believe that creating a different experience also plays an important role in seducing travellers. We are looking forward to embracing these new challenges by proposing a lifestyle approach from an expert skincare brand. EM: Considering the importance of the Export market, have you recently updated your commercial structure? MLSB: The company’s Export organization has evolved in 2018 to better support PAYOT’s growth rate (3 new markets – 650 new doors) and we count 1 new Export and TR area manager. We have consolidated Export, Travel-Retail and Duty-free business activities in one department under the supervision of Rodrigue Chastenet de Gery Export and TR Director. After 7 years within the organization he benefits from an extensive knowledge of our partners and markets. EM: PAYOT has always been a multi-channel brand, why? MLSB: PAYOT benefits from a

strong legacy: a founder who was a female Doctor, products formulated “à la Française”, a pioneering spirit to consider movement and well-being as pillars of its concept: many assets that have been leveraged simultaneously, allowing PAYOT to explore successfully different channels of distribution. It now gives us a strong anchorage in the spa business, a medical legitimacy in the pharmacy sector, true success stories within selective retail environments and enough agility to explore online opportunities. This strength has allowed PAYOT to take the shift from multichannel to omnichannel.

EM: What is the role of online sales? MLSB: Online business is not simply an alternative distribution channel; it’s one stone in our business ecosystem. Indeed, digital is a valuable and fantastic additional touch point with our customers. It gives us the opportunity to be part of their daily life, as their beauty coach, and to drive them to our stores when they are looking for further experiences. Clearly a virtuous cycle that takes its full dimensions in market like Russia where offline and online are in perfect harmony (over 20 websites and 1,200 doors are selling PAYOT products).


INTERVIEW

EM: Does the communication follow this strategy? MLSB: Yes, the objective is to find a smart balance between traditional communication and digital communication. It may vary from one market to another and our goal is always to find the right tone to support online and offline business strategies. In France, we recently launched a new web platform featuring a lot of brand content with an e-business function (products can only be ordered and delivered in France). We’ll monitor the results closely in the upcoming months so to learn from this new experience and evaluate the opportunity of letting some of our partners worldwide seek a similar platform. EM: One year ago you told us that you were soon to open the Chinese market… MLSB: We succeeded in opening China in 2018 with GED company as a partner with great objectives.

This Franco-Chinese organization run by JP. Benoist is the best fit to develop an online cross border business model. We were honoured to welcome in Paris this summer 5 KOL from Shanghai and Beijing. It is definitely a test and learn approach for PAYOT! EM: Which products did you present first? MLSB: We selected a limited assortment of products - about 15 skus. The PATE GRISE line to meet the expectations of young skin conditions that are looking for performance while having a sensory experience. MY PAYOT line for its playful, joyful concept and its particularly addictive textures. The assortment will be extended quickly focusing on the uniqueness of some of our recent launches like UNISKIN Perles des Rêves and by leveraging the market feedback we will gather. We want to focus on a product approach rather than on a brand approach and above all, we want to remain consumer-centric.

EM: Are there any new products on the way? MLSB: We are currently launching BLUE TECHNI LISS, a strategic “pro-age” line for PAYOT in 2018. Five new cutting-edge technology products designed to fight all types of wrinkles: first wrinkles, lines of expression, crow’s feet and deep wrinkles. The concept also provides an answer to the evolution of lifestyle. Indeed it’s now proven that in these past decades we have not only lost 2 hours of sleep per night but we have also unbalanced our biorhythms by using electronic devices at bed time, which creates digital pollution, an excess of blue light exposure that has an impact on the skin. BLUE TECHNI LISS formulas are offering the benefit of several forms of hyaluronic acid targeting wrinkles combined with plant extracts that are particularly efficient against the excess of free radicals created by over exposure to blue light. We propose a simple routine: day / night / week-end - and its performance is maximized thanks to ingredients carefully selected for being active in different ways depending on whether they are used when it is light or dark!

EM: Can you tell me more about the spirit of your partnership with your distributors? MLSB: We are represented in more than 65 countries on the 5 continents. The community spirit is strong among the PAYOT partners. On top of being customer-centric and business driven we provide our distributors with multi-channel brand content and customized trade solutions that allow them to deliver a high level of local brand building.

EM: Are you satisfied with the results achieved so far? MLSB: Yes, 2018 will be a very good year for PAYOT with a double-digit growth of our Export business and the launch of our “pro-age” line BLUE TECHNI LISS. Our latest achievement is the opening of the Norwegian market. Thanks to close collaboration with our local distributor, we have successfully opened 300 pharmacies (APOTEK 1).

To support this philosophy we have a dedicated team led by Chloé Lamoureux Pony. Her strong marketing skills combined with her business experience in supervising the Russian market (no. 1 export country for PAYOT) is a perfect match for sharing practices and implementing creative business solutions for all our partners. We are a #happyPAYOTfamily working closely with our clients!

C.S.

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RENATO BALESTRA two new fragrances and a new look for the existing lines

The Renato Balestra collection of fragrances has been restyled in the packaging and adds two new creations

The bestsellers in the Renato Balestra range have had an exclusive makeover. Diamante Nero Homme, Diamante Nero Femme, Argento, Oro, Classico Homme, Classico Femme, Blu and Fiori di Essenza Divina now come in unprecedented packaging full of modern, glamorous and sophisticated flair. The glass bottles are personalized according to the line they belong to, and come inside boxes that are reminiscent of the textures and graphic effects typical of Renato Balestra fashions. This packaging takes its inspiration from some of the finest fabrics, dressing the fragrances in seemingly genuine items of clothing. This way, Renato Balestra fragrances have proven once again to be icons of the indissoluble bond between fashion and the art of perfumery. The two new Renato Balestra fragrances are the eau de parfum Oro Intense and Argento Intense, an aromatic evolution from the eau de toilette Oro and Argento.

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The new creations are captivating, youthful and trendy, intense fragrances that are enriched within an exuberant profusion of notes, reinterpreting iconic scents by Renato Balestra. From the very first instant, the packaging attracts attention, with glitter and plays of the light embellishing the bottles, enhancing the fragrances with the brilliance that Renato Balestra’s haute couture fashions are known for. Oro Intense is fragrance for refined and discerning women who are always in pursuit of excellence. The Mediterranean notes of Oro Intense are vibrant, yet never overpowering and blend the freshness of mandarin and peach with Bulgarian rose and citron to create an elegant and intriguing fragrance.

Its top notes of Mandarin, White Peach and Cassis introduce a heart of Bulgarian Rose, Osmanthus, Orange Blossom, while the base notes of Cedarwood, Patchouli and Vanilla seal the fragrance with persistence yet gentleness. Argento Intense has its main notes enhanced by Patchouli and Tobacco, which are really brought out in this sensual, dynamic and masculine scent. It is a fragrance for confident and determined men, who love to give anything a try, yet without ever sacrificing their own personality. Top notes are Lime, Mandarin and Cardamom, yielding to middle notes of Rose, Neroli and Coriander while the base adds Cedarwood and Vanilla to the already mentioned Patchouli and Tobacco.


Visit us at: TFWA Riviera Village RC9

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company

Biotechnology and biodynamics come together for this innovative anti-ageing treatment line

TRANSVITAL

the Perfecting line

Transvital can be defined a pioneer in anti-ageing treatments. Ever since the very first formulation in 1965 of the regenerating cream for cosmetic purposes to the present, with the Perfecting collection which represents the crowning glory of the Transvital anti-ageing offer, the brand has always set itself the objective of treating the factors triggering off skin ageing at their origin and creating products that can fight it and prevent it. The result is a range of highly performing products that can assure unprecedented results. The formulas are based on biotechnology together with biodynamics to ensure the greatest safety and high level performance. The star active ingredient of the Perfecting line is a lipopeptide belonging to the Matrikine family. It stimulates skin reconstruction, encouraging the fibroblasts to recreate the extra-cellular matrix, an indispensable tissue “adhesive�. Ingredients from natural sources in the formula include a phytosterol derived from Landes pine trees, with anti-inflammatory properties and is also a source of vitamin D2. Thanks to the presence of plant ceramides in the formula, hydration is fostered and the resistance of the skin barrier is improved. Reflecting pigments minimize imperfections and give the skin

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a more luminous and even look. Hydrolysed soy proteins stimulate the metabolism and promote the cells’ breathing, as well as reducing wrinkles and dryness. The vitamins in the Perfecting line come from the berries of the wild sea-buckthorn shrub commonly found in Europe, a high concentrate of Vitamin C, Vitamins A, E, P and numerous others in the B group. Lastly, saccharide isomerate ensures that the cells on the corneal layer bind perfectly and a photo protective complex from the exceptional properties of Laminaria Ochroleuca, a microalgae, provides natural defence against photo-induced damage.


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LAUNCH

BtakingFNKY natural cosmetics up to a new level

THE YOUNG GERMAN BRAND CREATES GREEN COSMECEUTICALS BY UNITING THE BEST OF NATURE, MEDICINE AND TECHNOLOGY Launched in September 2016, by German entrepreneur Alexandra Slendebroek, B FNKY created Green Cosmeceuticals that are based on medical active cosmetics and are completely focused on effectiveness, without any no-go compounds that harms the skin. By using innovative ingredients such as Power Phyto Juices, a unique superfood for the skin, that B FNKY was able to process in cosmetics as one of the first brands worldwide, as well as more special active agents like for example biotechnologically generated Hyaluron Super Concentrate, that is much more efficient in comparison to the commonly used hyaluronates or the most stable Vitamin C on the market, which does not oxidise and stays constantly

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effective, all B FNKY products are not only maintaining the beauty of the skin, but constantly improving it with each application. Founder and CEO Alexandra Slendebroek: "I was always convinced that natural cosmetics too can realise deep-acting beauty effects. So I committed myself to exploit the potential efficacy of modern natural cosmetics to the full and it became very clear to me that the key factor is the optimum interplay between nature, medicine and technology. So we used the synergy between the power of natural and innovative ingredients and the newest scientific and dermatological findings to create uncomplicated products that are state of the art in every aspect." The essential factor is the innovative dermatological structure of the products that ensures that all active agents can have the optimum effect and find their way to the deep skin layers. This power effect originates from an intelligent system that

Alexandra Slendebroek, Founder and

CEO

transports every single active agent to exactly where it’s supposed to work. All B FNKY products are pure anti-ageing and offer a natural glow through skin rejuvenating and certified formulations with sensational textures, an aboveaverage tolerability and proven effectiveness. Uncomplicated and perfectly adapted to the urban lifestyle most of the products can be used in different ways. These multitasking products are mainly produced in travel sizes, making them perfect for the dynamic consumer, always on the go and who wants effective products with the reassurance of quality and performance. The current product range of B FNKY includes 10 products, differentiated into the three main groups Face Designer, Body Designer and Fragrances. While B FNKY consciously dispense with scents in the Face Designer line, the Body Designer and Fragrances comprise the two delicious scented lines "Inhale Love" and "Sky Infusion". All products are Made in Germany and are free from animal testing, animal based ingredients, parabenes, silicons and other no-gos. B FNKY stands in the competitive environment of international natural cosmetics and conventional cosmetic brands in the mid-range and high-end segment and serves internationally renowned perfumeries, beauty stores, selective department stores and concept stores. www. bfnky.com


2019 EDITION

14 – 17 MARCH

15 – 18 MARCH

A new world for beauty Bologna, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Mumbai

Company of

With the participation of

BOLOGNA, ITALY FAIR DISTRICT

cosmoprof.com

Organiser BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a, Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 F +39 02 795 036 info@cosmoprof.it

In partnership with

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LAUNCH

WOOD the new fragrances that define the

contemporary Dsquared2 Man and Woman A sophisticated essence that expresses authenticity is the latest DSquared2 fragrance, produced and distributed by Euroitalia for the whole world

Wood, the new DSquared2 fragrance, in a male and female version, is a dual project designed around the characteristics of wood: strong and sturdy, with a complex structure that makes it unique and inimitable. These two new scents, produced and distributed by Euroitalia and recently launched on the international market, define the contemporary DSquared2 man and woman: sensual, confident in themselves and their personalities. Young and capturing the zeitgeist, the protagonists for these fragrances live on passions, good vibes and an impulse towards what’s new.

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They are looking for a sophisticated essence that expresses the authenticity, depth and passion that defines them. The men’s fragrance is powerful, distinctive and masculine. It opens with the Mediterranean freshness of Bergamot from Calabria, Mandarin and Lemon from Sicily and is enriched with elegant, sharp notes of Ginger. In the heart of the composition, vibrant tones of Violet Leaf and Cardamom contrast with the distinct sensuality of Ambrox, while a modern blend of White Wood rings light to the deep, elegant character of Vetiver, resulting in a woody floral fragrance.

The fragrance for her is a contemporary, vibrant and ultra-feminine composition. It opens with Mandarin from Sicily and Raspberry Leaf, expressing joy and liveliness, combined with Lily of the Valley and Magnolia, which add fresh and ethereal notes. The infusion of Osmanthus and Jasmine, both precious and seductive ingredients, reveal an intense femininity. Bright notes of White Woods and Cedar, along with the depth of Ambrox, bestow an unmistakable character on this floral woody fragrance. Wood is also a bath and body line with exclusive products. For women, the range comprises Bath & Shower Gel and a Body Lotion and for men, a Bath & Shower Gel, After Shave Balm and Deodorant Stick. These hydrating and nourishing products for daily body care leave skin with an immediate and long-lasting sensation of well-being and freshness. The packaging of Wood reflects the resolute character of the fragrances. A linear bottle in burnished glass for men and clear glass for women: each one has a unique cap made of the highest quality ash which is created piece by piece, offering a level of craftsmanship that has almost disappeared.


LAUNCH

The cap also features a magnetic closure. Wood and cool materials meet without losing their sensory qualities. Wood as a material lends an archaic flavour: powerful yet reassuring, while the brilliance and clarity of glass and aluminium, enhance the preciousness of the liquid inside. The exclusive crafting of the bottom allow the glass to spread into a curve, which creates a new element inside the bottle - a teardrop

Sealed with a maple leaf, the unmistakable symbol of the DSquared2 Fashion house it is a guarantee of quality, research and innovation. In the communication, there is a subtle play between power and seduction. Created by Mert & Marcus and with the artistic

direction of Dean and Dan Caten, the campaign features models Anna Ewers and Julian Schneider. They become perfectly entwined in a whirl of motion featuring passionate, energetic and dynamic bodies. They meet and collide in a play of sensual and intense glances and complicity.

shape, like another ampoule to hold the fragrances. The flocked packaging is elegant and tactile, in dark brown velvet for him and in pink velvet for her.

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Interview with Alberto Morillas and Marie Salamagne EM: What inspired you in the creation of WOOD, the new fragrance for man/woman by Dsquared2? AM: I was inspired by the vast, pristine forests covering Canada. I wanted to create a fragrance that recalls the sense of freedom you can find in the woods. MS: With WOOD I wanted to recall both the authentic and iconic soul of the brand choosing bright woods and textured fresh flowers. EM: Are there some raw materials (ingredients) which you use to use in your olfactive creations? AM: Since I come from Andalusia, anything which evokes the South and the Mediterranean is essential to me. I am attached to citrus, flowers and to any expression of freshness which leads back to the idea of Cologne. The association of citrus, natural petals, clear woods, and white musks remain some basics for my favorite formulations.

Marie Salamagne

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Alberto Morillas

MS: I love woods and I am addicted to patchouli. Its note is truly a perfume unto itself. It continually fascinates me, transporting me to another place entirely. EM: Do you agree that we are right now over the concept of male and female fragrance? In many cases, we hear the word ‘genderless’. AM: The borders between feminine and masculine fragrances are nowadays less relevant. A lot of ingredients which had been used for men, like woods, are now very present in feminine fragrances. It is the same thing with the appearance of flowers in many new men fragrances. Now the objective is to find an olfactive singularity. MS: Fragrances have been recently broadened by the success of Niche segment. The non-gender offer wide opens consumer’s perception about fragrances inviting them to experiment new tastes. Since then I can see men wearing flowers like roses and women wearing dark woods. I feel happy to notice boundaries disappear and freedom arouses as this stimulates my creativity.

C.S.

Interview with Julian Schneider for WOOD by D2 EXPORT MAGAZINE: Are you happy to be the new male face of the newest fragrance WOOD by Dsquared2? Julian Schneider: Yes of course. It's a big honor for me! I truly love the whole process and the amazing team involved whom I have worked with so many times… and everytime it feels like family. EM: Have you already been working for and with the fashion house Dsquared2? Do you think that the fashion style of the Canadian twins Dean and Dan reflect your personality? JS: Actually yes … Dsquared2 was the first big campaign I shot when I started modeling... the designers believed in me since the beginning, so I was thrilled to work with them again. They create fashion that I like to wear, and it represents my style. EM: In the AD campaign, you have both strength and sweetness. What are you in your daily life? We know that you were part of the Olympic Judo team in Austria. JS: I'm a really normal dude from Austria, who just loves to sports … I try to do as much sport as my time allows me to. Judo is a big part of my life and I'm doing it now for 14 years. 5 years ago I competed in the youth Olympic games for Austria and won the bronze medal. C.S.


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INTERVIEW

COLLISTAR a solid brand identity

that is renewed in time Interview with Daniela Sacerdote, Collistar CEO

Daniela Sacerdote is the person behind the success of Collistar, a brand that has successfully won the trust of its consumers thanks to the undisputed quality of its products and communication aimed at getting to know and use them. Her passion for cosmetics is infectious, her team is united and close-knit; the motto is: always the best for consumers. EXPORT MAGAZINE: Collistar is the best known Italian brand of cosmetics. Where is your strategy headed? DANIELA SACERDOTE: If it is true that we have always kept to the essential points of our corporate philosophy, it is equally true that, in a period of changes that before were unthinkable where it is essential to have an offer that is always dynamic and evolving, it is necessary to be innovative, adapting to the speed required by today’s rhythms. Anticipating the times is part of our DNA; this entails taking risks, as no market research exists that can assure us of our decisions. However, I am convinced that even today it is worth being forerunners. In doing so, I have been helped by two important factors, being able to count on excellent collaborators, who share a passion for cosmetics with me, and my incurable curiosity.

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We keep an eye on everything that is going on in the world, with all the tools at our disposal, cosmetic and other websites, trend labs, new products that arrive from our suppliers and from all over the world. Let me tell you a secret: in the evening, when I leave the office, my bag is very heavy, full of magazines and new products to try out. I cut out articles from magazines with the most interesting news, and I am always trying out new products. The next day I compare notes with our team, they also try out the products, both ours and by others, and there is a free exchange of opinions and experiences. In a few words, we give a lot of work to our R&D. We are a very close group, with the ability to discuss again the day after what we had already discussed the day before. Why not be able to go back on our decisions? A product might be appreciated in the company but not by people outside, We work on a lot of projects and we are not afraid of discarding the ones that are not completely obvious. EM: What are your main objectives? DS: Obviously to do our work well which means continuing to grow, in Italy, on the Internet and on foreign markets. In Italy we have had years with exponential growth; we are continuing to grow despite the critical situation of the market, very many perfumery shops have closed

and not very many are opening. We accept the challenge of the market which changes; we are a healthy and well-structured company, our risks are always calculated. Accepting challenges is part of my character, I find it stimulating, you are never bored that way. We believe in the web on condition that it is not to the detriment of traditional sales. In fact, the choice on the newsletters to put on the web is made by our team led by Alessandro Perino and made up of 2 people who also look after the social media and web marketing, together with our Sales and Marketing Director, Luca Catalano. Our team for export is divided into geographical areas, and the duty free and travel retail sector is in the hands of Stefano Cantaboni, who also follows Europe. Our new Export Director will be arriving shortly, a person with an in-depth knowledge of the markets. Eva Bardanzellu becomes International Public Relations & Communications Manager, underlining the increasing importance we will be giving to the development of a coordinated image of the brand including in the international sector. Her team also creates all the video material supporting the launches. Eva will be assisted by a new person who will carry out her previous tasks of head of public relations with a focus on the press office.

EM: Collistar was the first company in Italy, many years ago, to do advertising in the form of advertorials. In this too you anticipated the times. DS: That’s true, we have always been convinced that customers have to ‘know’ what there is in a product, what it is for. We were also the first to use the radio to advertise our products. This also means innovating. EM: What are the reasons for Collistar continuing to be so appreciated? DS: Underlying everything there is quality; this is our motto, we will never launch a product without having the certainty that it is the best formula, with the best possible performance. I think that our effort to continuously innovate is also appreciated, which to us is completely natural, obviously without losing our identity. EM: The assortment of the Collistar lines ranges from facebody cosmetics to make-up, from products for men to lines for the hair, from sun care to fragrances… there’s everything! DS: We have everything and we have nothing. Let me say again that we are living in a situation of dynamism. Every line comes from a precise need: to reinforce the brand identity, make ourselves noticed and be chosen by the consumers.


INTERVIEW

Every time a product category is added, it is not by chance: when we launched the hair line, we did it, certain that we were putting effective products on to the market. The fragrances are the jewel in our crown, even though for Collistar it is almost a new division of the company, in a certain sense. The Prestige Collection, in particular, is made up of 5 marvellous fragrances, real artistic perfumes, at a democratic price. We are not new to the world of fragrance, let me recall that our Profumo di Benessere, launched in the early 1990s, is still the best seller in the collection that bears its name. EM: A few years ago you launched the concept: ‘Ti amo Italia’ (I love you, Italy), products distinguished by this headline, to emphasize Italianness is all its aspects, from the ingredients to the partners, different every year, chosen to interpret Italianness with you. You have gone from Antonio Marras to Kartell and Piquadro, from Fiat to Illy: all brands of excellence. DS: We will continue in this direction, as with ‘Ti amo Italia’ all the brand values are represented. We also have a collaboration under way with FAI, the Italian Environmental Fund, to protect the gardens of Villa del Balbianello, on Lake Como, a jewel in the crown of the Italian artistic heritage, already in itself synonymous with excellence in the world. EM: What lines are currently being launched? DS: As usual, we are working in every area. Collistar is particularly known for its treatment products. Last Spring, we concentrated on the concept of hydration, and we launched the Idro-Attiva

line which keeps in the range ‘Deep Moisturizing Cream’ launched many years ago and which is still today one of the brand’s greatest successes with millions of pieces sold all over the world, naturally with the addition of new ingredients which boost hydration and offer a detox effect.

To support the concept of hydration, we have also just presented Deep Moisturizing Foundation, which has a free gift of the Deep Moisturizing Cream. The Pure Actives line, which is being enormously successful, adds a new active ingredient, Elastin, which has always been considered one of the molecules of youth. To support the range, we have also just launched a kit made up of a facial product with the preferred active ingredient + the micromagnetic mask in fabric based on Collagen and Elastin.

Other new products are a splendid mask in fabric for men and, in the Body line, patches for the bust and “boots” for the treatment of the legs. In Italy, supporting the main launches, we never forget to plan important communication campaigns on all the main media: press, digital advertising plans that

also extend to the social networks and to influencer marketing, radio and, for the most strategic launches, TV, which is really giving excellent results. EM: Can you tell us about the ‘patches’? You are apparently even out of stock… DS: This is an interesting story, I have to thank my ‘nose’ for what smelling what is in the air. My innate curiosity has even taken me to Korea. I went around Seoul and I came back with lots of great ideas, and it was a short step from the ideas to the facts. Let’s not forget that Collistar is the leader in anticellulite products. Well, we created patches for the abdomen, to apply regularly for twenty minutes. The results are sensational. The success of this product led us to create new ones for different parts of the body, and now for the face. Others are being studied. Women today have little time, they want products that are easy and quick to apply and with a definite result. In the field of ‘natural’ products, we have launched the Natura line, for that type of consumer particularly attracted to the topic of ‘green’.

EM: Sustainability, a term which is recurring more and more frequently… DS: And rightly so. It is a project that we have been carrying on for a few years. Our Eva Bardanzellu is part of a workgroup that, in a year, will bring complete proposals. We are getting organized to have a primary packaging that is increasingly eco-sustainable. We have already produced one with our Natura line, the packaging of which, instead of being in plastic, is obtained from a derivative of sugar paper, compatible to contain the bulk of our products. As far as the secondary packaging is concerned, the paper we use is already FSC certified. EM: How important is travel retail for you? DS: Travel retail is very important for us; the figures, constantly on the increase, are saying we are right, both in Italian airports and in many foreign countries. We are present with stands designed ad hoc, which immediately convey our taste for beauty and the breadth of our offers. We have numerous travel kits produced especially for duty free stores, and made up of several products in the travel retail size. EM: Is there a recipe for success? DS: Working in a team of capable people who are continually in discussion with one another and share the same passion and the same energy. The decisions do not come from mathematics. Experience in the sector, collecting information and working on it counts; it is possible to make a mistake, but as well as Plan A you have to have Plan B and sometimes even a Plan C. The machine keeps rolling and every day is a new day, for us and for those consumers who find the right answers in Collistar.

C.S.

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PURE ACTIVES ELASTIN AND ELASTIN SILK-CREAM The latest addition to the Collistar Pure Actives line is Elastin, the protein on which the elasticity, tone and resilience of the skin depends with the Pure Active and Elastin Silk-Cream. These two products can be used on their own or in combination, for a global anti-ageing treatment. Pure Active Elastin has an ultra-silky texture and is rapidly absorbed. Perfect for all skin types and in every season, it becomes indispensable when the first signs of slackening appear, with visible results after only a few days. With a very pleasant and sensory texture, Elastin Silk-Cream is extremely silky and nourishing for the skin but very rapidly absorbed, conveying the elastin to the skin’s tissues for immediate comfort and smoothness. From the very first applications, the skin looks more toned and vital and the face is visibly reshaped.

DEEP MOISTURIZING FOUNDATION With this new product, Collistar brings its revolutionary Idro-Attiva 72h Detox Hydration approach to foundation, giving it an intensely hydrating, replumping and rejuvenating formula. The result. Deep Moisturizing Foundation with Idro-Attiva Compex SPF 15, replumps several layers of skin and hydrates deep down with a waves of active ingredients, including detoxing peony extract and SPF 15 UVA and UVB filters. The make-up result is flawless, fresh and revitalized skin. The light, fluid coverage gives variable coverage, smoothing and illuminating the complexion and minimizing blemishes and fine lines. It comes in 6 shades and is ideal for all skin types.

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NATURA Natura is a complete line of daily skincare (face and body) for women who love nature, the world around them and its ingredient, 95% of which come from natural sources, nourishing the skin with nature’s most precious foodstuffs. The star ingredient is Italian Stevia, a precious nourishing and moisturizing herb. The line comprises Gentle Shower Gel, Fluid Body Cream, Extraordinary Infusion-Cream, a 24h cream with revitalizing, hydro-nourishing active ingredients, Precious Essence-Oil, to make skin more compact, minimize wrinkles and signs of dehydration, Eye Contour Balm-Gel to leave eyes looking bright and reduce signs of fatigue, Two-phase Micellar water to remove make-up and gently nourish face, eyes and lips and Transforming Essential Cream, which moisturizes, smooths, elasticizes and protects from free radicals. It can also be personalized with other ingredients (such as honey, olive oil, sugar or lemon) so that every woman can create her own personalized menu, using it as a mask, a scrub, a face pack or a new personalized cream. The restyled packaging is greener in appearance with a more eco-friendly design: made from 100% recycled paper and totally recyclable materials.

PATCHMANIA! The latest trend in beauty care is patch treatment, and Collistar has recently introduced two new products: the first, Hydro-Patch Treatment Firming Lifting Bust takes advantage of Hydrogel-Technology and is made up of two layers, one to keep the active ingredients intact and concentrated until use and the second, adhering to the skin, which prolongs the activity of the product. The formula ensures visible results in terms of firming and a lifting effect. Boot Mask Nourishing Anti-Fatigue Feet and Calves is ideal after a long and intense day, a strenuous workout or travelling: Shaped like a boot, this original mask has two layers: one imbibed with a concentrated serum of active ingredients, and the second to ensure a sauna effect to boost the efficacy of the treatment. It leaves the skin soft and smooth, as well as refreshing and relieving tired feet and legs.

LA VANIGLIA After Oud, Ambra, Incense and Rosa, the latest Eau de Parfum in the Collistar prestige Collection is La Vaniglia. Created by Master Perfumer Olivier Cresp, La Vaniglia exalts the most luminous, enveloping and sensual side of vanilla. The top notes are fresh, with bergamot interweaved with floral and velvety touches of rose and jasmine, then plunging into the soft and precious base notes of cashmere, amber and musk.


2018 MANE SUCCESSES

A PALETTE OF ELEGANT & SENSUAL SCENTS A palette of new fragrances created by MANE’s perfumers. Elegant, radiant or passionate, a variety of scents that capture what moves. ROMAMOR is the new fascinating fragrance by LAURA BIAGIOTTI signed by Véronique Nyberg and Violaine Collas. A celebration of love and a harmonious symphony of intense and luminous feminine accents, where the majestic blend of ROMA with refined notes of Patchouli, Orange Blossom and Cashmere Woods is reflected in the exciting scent of AMOR with its voluptuous vibrations of Blackberries, Blueberries, Red Fruits and Vanilla Absolute. Véronique Nyberg tells through TRUSSARDI RIFLESSO the story of the life of a man who considers sport a lifestyle. This new philosophy is expressed by head notes of Bergamot and Pink Grapefruit that create a Citrusy Italian Cocktail. Vibrant and energetic notes of Lavender Flower Pure Jungle Essence™ and hints of Italian Leather refer to the effortless elegance of the new culture of the masculine Trussardi personality. THE ONLY ONE, the new floral fragrance signed by Violaine Collas captures a new facet of the DOLCE&GABBANA woman: her radiant allure and her innate joy of life. The fragrance opens on Violet and combines subtle touches of Bergamot to create a lively, surprising and juicy bouquet. At the heart, seductive notes of rich Coffee are blended with charming Iris. The warm base of Vanilla and Patchouli lends a tactile, comforting quality, enveloping the senses in an opulent embrace. Véronique Nyberg and Julie Massé have created HALLOWEEN MAGIC by HALLOWEEN, a fascinating and mysterious Chypre Fruity Elixir. Sparkling on top, the essence of Yellow Mandarin mingles with the juicy tones of Raspberry and a Pear Sorbet and invites us into an acidulated and colorful universe. The heart notes unveil a captivating bouquet with Jasmine Sambac Absolute, Freesia and Pink Peony. In the dry down, an astonishing, attractive and oriental wake breaks out from the depths of the fragrance with hints of Patchouli, Vanilla and Tonka Beans. ARMANI SÌ PASSIONE is an irresistible combination of grace, strength and independent spirit created by Julie Massé. It reiterates the keynote signature of Sì - Blackcurrant Jungle Essence™ nectar, combined with a sparkling and joyful Pear, intense Vanilla with the Blooms of Rose, Heliotrope and Jasmine to create a sensual, fruity floral scent. In the heart, Cedarwood and the modern ambery-woody Orcanox™ give a maturity and character, evoking true passion.

More fragrant surprises to come in 2018... 33


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Nutraceuticals and cosmetics for a synergetic detoxing, rebalancing and regenerating programme

LONGEVITY the health and beauty project to

feel and look younger and younger The accentuation of wrinkles is an obvious consequence of the passing of time and a healthy structure and function of the skin is kept not only through the topical application of creams and cosmetics of various kinds, but also by keeping the right supply of nutrients useful for its correct functioning. This is the presupposition

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from which Longevity arises: a brand, a project of beauty and well-being to “attack” the advance of time in synergy from the inside and from the outside. The Longevity supplements, of a new generation and bioavailable, make use of innovative and clinically tested ingredients to help well-being. The efficacy of the Longevity nutraceutical formulations is due to a complex of active ingredients

with extraordinary regenerating capacities, nucleotides. These are the so-called “bricks of life”, as they are essential components of the DNA and RNA, involved in countless functions and used to reconstitute the body and mind. The programme is divided into three phases: • Detoxing • Balance and repair • Regeneration.


LAUNCH

In the first detoxing phase, the Longevity programme aims at fostering the disposal of the toxins that have accumulated in the organism, supporting in particular the functionality of the liver (Detoxcare) and of the digestive system (Digestcare). The second phase is oriented towards rebalancing the supply of nutrients useful for thenormal functioning of the organism; to be chosen according to individual needs. Longevity has formulated specific supplements for the intestine (Intestinecare), the stomach (Stomachcare), weight control (Slimcare), cholesterol (Cholesterolcare), bones, muscles and cartilage (Osteocare), the memory (Memorycare) and anti-stress (Antistresscare). The Longevity protocol is completed by the phase of regeneration of the organism, which involves the body and skin (Antiage & Beautycare), nails and hair (Haircare) and provides the energy (Energycare) necessary for improved well-being. In parallel, Longevity offers a line of of specific cosmeceuticals, divided into the same three phases, to fight and prevent early ageing of the skin and hair, to be used in synergy with the nutraceuticals most suited to individual requirements. In the first phase, Longevity offers cosmetic formulas with targeted active ingredients to purify the skin of impurities, smog, heavy metals

and free radicals and to prepare it to receive the subsequent treatments. To rebalance and repair the skin, Longevity has also created treatments based on nucleotides and stem cells to imitate and intensify the natural processes of regeneration of the skin, increase the rhythms of cellular growth, facilitate the repair of damaged DNA, increase the hydration of the skin and the vitality of the stem cells. The cosmeceutical programme is completed by the products based on stem cells of white water-lily, which can provide the energy for the regeneration of the skin cells and significantly improve the quality of the tissues. This type of stem cells restores high levels of synthesis of the fibres and glycoproteins in the extracellular matrix, contributes to giving compactness to the skin, prolongs the lie of the fibroblast and their functionality.

LONGEVITY CENTER: A RELIABLE SERVICE FOR THE CONSUMER, A DEFINITE BUSINESS FOR THE WORLD OF DISTRIBUTION A project in the project, Longevity Center comes into being in pharmacies: corners with instrumentation that can analyse an individual and advise on the most suitable products for each person. A brand owned by S.I.R.P.E.A., Longevity Center represents an excellent business opportunity for the various sales channels, whether pharmacies, distribution chains or places with a heavy public footfall. Today’s consumer is more open to a proposal of auto-diagnosis, on condition that it is complete, easily accessible and naturally, reliable.

LONGEVITY NUTRACEUTICALS

LONGEVITY COSMECEUTICALS

DETOXIFICATION

DETOXCARE DIGESTCARE

PURIFYING MILK REACTIVATING TONER PURIFYING MASK FRUIT ACID EXFOLIATING CREAM

BALANCE AND REPAIR

INTESTINECARE STOMACHCARE SLIMCARE CHOLESTEROLCARE OSTEOCARE MEMORYCARE ANTISTRESSCARE

REBALANCING ACID CREAM REPAIRING SERUM HYDRATING PROTECTIVE CREAM NOURISHING CREAM DECONTRACTING LIFTING CREAM EYE AND LIP CONTOUR CREAM

REGENERATION

HAIRCARE ANTIAGE&BEAUTYCARE ENERGYCARE

REGENERATING STEM CELL CREAM REGENERATING STEM CELL SERUM REGENERATING STEM CELL MASK

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ANTI-AGING TECHNOLOGICAL AND INNOVATIVE SKINCARE

iCare treatments are also suitable for more sensitive and intolerant skin. Pharmaceutical grade advanced formulas without: PARABENS, LIQUID PARAFFIN, PETROLATES, ALLERGENS, SYNTHETIC COLOURANTS and all the useless and harmful substances that often cause allergies. 36

S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. - Via della Liberazione 56 - 20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) Italy - Tel. +39 02.98.280.925 (6 lines a.r.) - www.sirpea.com - info@sirpea.com


01-05

8

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INTERVIEW

DEBORAH MILANO enters the chinese market with a strategic partnership in the cross border

Export Magazine interviewed Mariana Migues, International Business Development Manager for the Far East

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Deborah has recently taken an important step with its entry on to the Chinese market. How did this take place? MARIANA MIGUES: Deborah Group has a strong inclination for export, we are constantly mapping the opportunities to develop our overseas business and we move according to precise criteria of sustainability. China has been monitored since the first important signs that a domestic consumer market was taking shape; however, the Chinese ecosystem of import and distribution, more rigid than the dynamism of the market, has stayed resistant and hostile until the recent digital revolution. It was thanks to this revolution that the peculiar regime of cross-border import was set up, a form of transnational B2C sale,

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strict and formal but also much leaner than the domestic import procedure. In 2015 we signed our first collaboration with one of the main x-border platforms specializing in cosmetics, jumei. com, offering Chinese consumers a carefully selected range of Deborah Milano products for the first time ever. The successful pilot project confirmed the great correspondence between market demand and the values of Deborah Milano, and it also gave us the knowledge needed to draw up a long-term integrated distribution plan (on-line & off-

line, cross-border and domestic), identifying the pillar and springboard of the following steps in cross-border import. The choice of the best operator to begin with was the next strategic decision to be taken and Ali Baba, with its Tmall.com platform (which boasts over 50% in volume of cross-border transactions in the cosmetic sector) was the most natural partnership that led us to open the first Deborah Milano flagship store in July and to the prestigious recognition of “strategic partner” by Tmall management itself during the event “The Colors of Italian Beauty” organized by Ali Baba here in Milan.

EM: Last May you were present with a stand at China Beauty Expo in Shanghai. Do you believe this presence is important to make the brand known on the Chinese market? MM: It was a very important step. The cross-border has allowed us to establish an immediate relationship with a certain type of end consumer who is already attentive and willing to accept new international make-up brands but our strategy, as I said, aims to reach wider segments of clients and to do so in the off-line it is essential to collaborate with trade partners that understand and emphasize the distinctive factors of Deborah Milano in its channels.

ing the "strategic partner" recognition from Mr Antonio Vanoli, CEO of Deborah Group receiv l during “The Colours of Italian Beauty" Globa Tmall and the top management of Ali Baba ted to the cosmetics industry dedica ery Discov first European event by Tmall


INTERVIEW

to talk to in this first phase belongs to the Chinese middle class who got to know foreign products and brands only a few years ago, who initially appreciated them by buying directly abroad or through the daigou and only more recently directly in China through the cross-border flagship stores. She is a customer who wants a guarantee of quality and authenticity, she is hyperinformed and hyper-connected, she listens to and interacts with her group and belongs to several communities. In practice, the impressive speed with which China has been transformed from a closed country to a market with very intense purchasing activity has led to the birth of an advanced consumer immersed in an global omnichannel environment; it is therefore impossible having a segmented marketing plan and the challenge will be to succeed in creating A make-up session to a KOL by Luca Mannucci, Deborah a Deborah Milano Milano official MUA, during the Chin a Beauty Shanghai, live streaming on social med Expo in customer journey, ia full of the Italianness we express, through the synergetic and coherent of irreverence) which easily activation of the myriad of touch create familiarity and intimacy points Chinese consumers are with demanding consumers exposed to: from the marketing who do not settle for just influencers (with the crucial role anything and Chinese women of representative VIPs and Key are going in this direction. Opinion Leaders, KOL) to live streaming, from the trunk show EM: Will you be implementing O2O (the event is experienced a specific marketing physically but further engagement and communication and purchasing is online) plan to raise awareness to the most sophisticated with the final customers? instruments of AI in which MM: The consumer that China is at the cutting edge. Deborah Milano wants as already for other key markets, we will leverage this unique flexibility and reactivity to be closer to the consumer. Last but not least, our story, having been the first Italian make-up company in our segment has given us an identity of a complete and unique brand, a rational solidity (exclusive formulas, clinical tests, protection factors, affordable prices) and an emotional personality (irony, passion, joy, a hint

at Great interest from the operators for Deborah Milano ah by Debor China Beauty Expo in Shanghai; the outfits worn with IED Milano models were a prestigious collaboration Istituto Europeo del Design, the renowned Italian institute for education and research in design, fashion and visual communication

At China Beauty Expo in Shanghai, we were able to meet and make us better known with various types of professionals who have this objective in common: diversify their offer with respect to only massively distributed multinational brands. On the other side we gained better understanding of the various regional models of distribution. Each region requires a very particular type of presence, the purchasing behaviour even in equivalent channels can vary greatly from one area to another and the expertise of local partners is obviously decisive. EM: In your opinion what are the winning factors to establish your brand on such a huge and competitive market? MM: Deborah Milano is a pop

ambassador of the greatest excellence of Italian products: for the price of a mass-tige product we offer a complete aesthetic experience; products that are created at our headquarters in the heart of Milan, the fashion and design capital, by virtuous dialectics between our marketing department and cool hunting, our internal R & D laboratory and the best suppliers in the world, those of the Italian beauty district which is in the immediate vicinity of Milan. The extent of our product range is also strategic, we regularly renew it with extreme dynamism, but it can also be further extended and customized on demand with a super-competitive time to market; for China as well,

C.S.

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INTERVIEW

ROUGE BAISER onboard at Coin department stores, Italy

Rouge Baiser, the legendary French cosmetics brand and ARTISTE DES LÈVRES that has epitomised elegance and understated sensuousness since 1927 is poised to continue its history of success stories with major international launches planned for the coming months. The recent launch in China, through a dedicated flagship store on the Tmall Global platform, has been received with much enthusiasm by the Chinese consumer. The online boutique portrays a sophisticated, Parisian mood evoking the allure of the legendary French brand. Rouge Baiser lipsticks, sporting the iconic Femme au Bandeau packaging, are proving to be predictably popular while consumers are also showing great interest for long lasting foundations as proof that perfect lips should be enhanced by a flawless complexion.

The first important launch however took place in Italy, Deborah Group’s home ground, we spoke to Rossana Corte, Director of Beauty Products and Wellbeing, Coin Group, to hear what she has to say about the brand and how the launch is going EXPORT MAGAZINE: Coin Group, through its BEAUTY Division, has stood out for years on the Italian market for the careful selection of brands distributed in its stores. Which criteria do you use to make this selection? ROSSANA CORTE: Our selection criteria mainly consider 3 key factors: • the process of upgrading that COIN has undertaken in the past few years towards a more premium positioning has entailed strengthening the selective brands in the area of beauty, together with the selection of distinctive, unique brands; • the experience that a brand can offer our clients; • the “retail" approach that the brand can present in our context through strongly characterized beauty service areas.   EM: Why have you chosen to reference Rouge Baiser in Coin? RC: Rouge Baiser is a brand that perfectly interprets and represents these three factors: it is a distinctive brand while being affordable.

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The characteristics of refinement and distinctiveness we look for do not mean high price positioning but a careful search for products that are hard to find therefore making the brand unique. In addition to the brand characteristics, there is the retail and experiential approach which we have introduced in the stores selected to launch Rouge Baiser through the development of customized merchandising and the creation of a BAR À LÈVRES focused on lips, the main segment of the brand. Using this mix we have introduced a very singular brand in the segment of affordable make-up. EM: The market is evolving extremely quickly, offering new brands which address the various targets of consumers. In the case of Rouge Baiser, we are looking at a brand that is not easy to classify according to the traditional rules; the French would define it ‘éternel’. Do you agree? RC: From my point of view Rouge Baiser is a “timeless” brand because

it valorises lipstick, one of the most iconic products for every woman; it furthermore has a compelling story to tell our consumers and the graphics and packaging are absolutely contemporary. EM: What kind of space and communication have you decided to reserve for Rouge Baiser? RC: In terms of space, we have dedicated specific, highly personalized areas with new merchandising elements to create a BAR À LÈVRES area in our stores: this is a novel way to arouse curiosity and attract consumers to the brand. A quick lip makeover is simple in terms of time, but highly gratifying for the consumer. A generic make-up station would have trivialized the offer and at the same time it would not have given the necessary emphasis to one of the distinctive features of the brand, namely its historic specialization in the lip segment. As far as communication is concerned, we have used different levers: from local events with bloggers, to newsletters and

targeted CRM activities; Rouge Baiser was also chosen as our brand sponsor to celebrate " International Kissing Day". Every brand must reach the client in an exciting and original way, especially when it is being launched on the market. We have only just begun, but the results are really encouraging in terms of performance, thanks also to the expertise of Deborah Group, who are extremely dynamic in terms of retail approach.

C.S.


Photographie : © Soup Studio

Sentéales provides even the most sensitive skins with efficient results & a sense of complete well-being.

11 rue du Colisée - 75008 Paris - FRANCE - Tél. : 33 (0)1 55 37 03 11 - contact@senteales.com

w w w. s e n t e a l e s . c o m

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COMPANY

Sentéales Under the charm… Last June, in Chantilly, there were about sixty of them thronging the light-flooded rooms of a mansion. They were all professionals of beauty and beauty care. They share their enthusiasm for the emblematic Parma violet packaging and the innovative treatments inside. They have come from all over the world for this evening/event dedicated to the brand and with Franck Benet, its CEO, surrounded by his team, the exchanges are convivial. The jet-lag quickly disappears for the guests, eliminated by the curiosity and pleasure of discovering Sentéales in vivo. There are so many questions... It is less about making acquaintance than meeting and understanding the soul of the laboratory. Which fairies bent over the cradle of the brand and which spell is contributing to the success of Sentéales in France and abroad?

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COMPANY

judicious combination will offer infinite possibilities, adapted to all types of skins, they are like some colours which skilfully assembled allow an unlimited palette.”

« A French art de vivre… » Sentéales certainly conveys the notion of a French Art de vivre, the image of a very particular French cosmetic identity where glove-makers and perfumers belonged to the same corporation, on the main boulevards, before creating modern cosmetics, but also a vision of beauty as a factor of emancipation, a resolutely Parisian note as well, linked to fashion and elegance, in part, and above all, the brand is the heir and the repository of French research, which at the beginning of the last century, invented the word “Aromatherapy”.

the heart of the range, the 4 elixirs of aromas (Douceur, Précieux, Pureté and « Insolente Jeunesse »), using plant extracts and essential oils of magnolia, camellia, Damascus rose, black orchid, bitter orange, myrrh…

« A judicious combination which offers infinite possibilities » These iconic elixirs are part of a short range which is an invitation to a singular sensory experience. Franck Benet specifies, “The strength is less in profusion than in the choice of pertinent products, of which e

This possibility of synergetic use allowing the creation of a “made to measure” routine is undeniably perceived as an advantage when addressing an international clientele. Sentéales also benefits from professional expertise with its cabin treatments and its specific protocols, including the care of all the superlatives “Insolente Jeunesse”, which with almost 70 plant active ingredients, sublimates a visibly rejuvenated face in complete harmony. For the magic to work in full, training, advice and closeness offered by Sentéales to distributors are the keystone of a successful partnership. In addition to the highly appreciated limited edition boxed sets, 2019 will be rich with many new articles, the result of long months of research and showing the dynamism of the brand.

« … in harmony with international » The name Sentéales vibrates with all this timeless melody which deeply anchors its identity in France but which resolutely puts it in harmony with international. Sentéales owes the success of its development in 17 countries by a singular approach of aromatherapy, privileging the well-being of se associated with the performances of original formulas using the rarest plant active ingredients and the most precious essential oils. In a few years, the laboratory has effectively become the essential reference in the art of the complex assembly of essential oils with, at

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LAUNCH

DIMENSIONE the first natural and line of prestige UOMO organic perfumery for men The iconic symbol of Leonardo da Vinci’s Vitruvian man for a 100% Italian brand

For the first time, natural and safe organically certified ingredients in a range symbolized by the elegance of the iconic symbol of Leonardo da Vinci’s Vitruvian man, celebrating the historical experience of the brand. Dimensione Uomo is a new range with formulations inspired by the most modern cosmetic trends, with the most on-trend and sought-after ingredients of the moment, such as extract of Organic Ginger, Organic Ancient grains (like barley) and other natural phytoextracts to meet specific and targeted responses. Attention for sustainability has given rise to ecological formulas, without silicones, parabens, mineral oils or synthetic colourings, and packaging that has a reduced environmental impact. The Dimensione Uomo products are certified Cosmos organic and Cosmos Natural, one of the main international standards for organic and natural certification of cosmetic products. The product line-up starts with the fundamental step of a man’s daily grooming routine, shaving. The Restructuring Shaving Cream forms a protective film on the skin to make it easier for the razor to glide over the skin. It nourishes and has a restructuring action as well as assuring a prolonged feeling of well-being against redness and irritations.

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The Soothing After Shaving Balm has a soothing effect on razor burn, redness and dry skin, moisturizing the skin and leaving the face protected and soft. Multiaction face and Eye Contour Cream is a high performing multifunctional treatment, which nourishes and protects, while improving the compactness and suppleness of the skin.

Two fragrances complete the Dimensione Uomo range. Ginger Woods, a distinctive and audacious fragrance, leaves an intense sensation of pleasure and freshness on the skin. The sensation is vivacious, thanks to the effervescent notes of ginger preceded by the fresh opening notes of bergamot.

The heart is rich in delicate spicy touches, which re developed in an enveloping and magnetic accord of woody and amber notes. Sensual Fougère is intense and refined, where the oriental and magnetic notes of amber release all their sensuality. The perfume of the precious resin is exalted by an original fougère accord, which combines the refined elegance of the heart of patchouli with the woody and aromatic notes of vetiver, vanilla and lavender. Warm and enveloping, it is dedicated to the contemporary man who likes to feel fascinating and charismatic. Both fragrances are made only with 100% natural essences.


B I B I N O VA

®

HYBRID COMPLEXION PERFECTOR

CURE MAKE-UP SPF 50 PA+++ Hydration + 8h Anti-Pollution Waterproof Unbelievable texture

Volcanic water of Jeju Island Lotus flower extract

www.mirecosmetics.com

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COMPANY

MI-RÊ An alliance between French and Korean expertise

Mi-rê, «bright future» in Korean, was created in 2015 by two women who have worked in the cosmetic sector forever. From two different continents where beauty has different resources and traditions, Elizabeth Tremosa, “Parisian by adoption”, meets Miseong Kim, Korean, and finds in her a soul mate, both professionally and personally. Immediately, they decide to join forces and realize that by putting their aspirations and their knowledge together, they can create hybrid beauty products: Cure Make-up concept was born…

THE PERFECT FUSION OF MAKE-UP AND CARE. TECHNICAL PRODUCTS, WITH NATURAL ACTIVE INGREDIENTS SKIN CARE ACTION: The brand selects natural active ingredients with properties of surprisingly effective care in the treasures of Korean nature, such as: The special lotus flower extract which has been used in Korean medicine for thousands of years, and present in

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Bibi Nova and Dual Contour Nova: • It acts on the radiance and purity of the complexion and illuminates the complexion. • It decreases free radical activity by inhibiting elastase to counter the formation of wrinkles. The volcanic water of Jeju Island, in South Korea, particularly present in Bibi Nova: Full of oxygen, it facilitates the penetration of active ingredients

and works in synergy with lotus extract to keep the skin optimally hydrated and plump it up. It also avoids bacterial growth. MAKE-UP RESULT: The products offer unprecedented textures to delicate ingredients for perfect coverage and a particularly natural and airy finish. With smart and technical packaging to ease daily use and optimize the beauty routine.


COMPANY

TODAY, MI-RÊ OFFERS 3 PRODUCT RANGES TO SAVE WOMEN TIME BROW PLUME PERFECTION®: A GEM OF TECHNOLOGY FOR PERFECT EYEBROWS Incredibly smart, the new Brow Plume Perfection Waterproof combines MAKE-UP and CARE in each of its two sides “Perfect Plume and Browscara.”

BIBI NOVA®: THE NEW GENERATION HYBRID COMPLEXION PERFECTOR An active and revolutionary skincare-makeup, the Bibi Nova cushion is the new ally of women who are looking for a complete, expert and smart product. It sublimates and harmonizes the complexion in a single gesture thanks to its «cushion technology» with an imperceptible texture, while providing +8 hours hydration*, SPF50 PA+++ protection and a plumping effect. Available in 6 shades to meet the needs of very light skins to dark skins. Undoubtedly the star product of Mi-rê. DUAL CONTOUR NOVA : FOR A PERFECT OVAL AT A GLANCE Mi-rê has developed two exclusive long-lasting double products: Blush & Highlighter and Contouring & Highlighter. They were created from the desire of the founders to simplify women's beauty routines. Dual Contour Nova Contouring & Highlighter sculpts the face with a bronzer and illuminate the face with the gold highlighter. Dual Contour Nova Blush & Highlighter will give a fresh Rose-Apricot finish and its Pearl Highlighter will spotlight areas that naturally catch the light. Love at first sight for this two-in-one product in a compact format.

Make -up effect: Highlights and fixes the eyebrows accurately and fills the sparse zones. Thanks to DHA, a self-tanning ingredient, it offers a semi-permanent tattoo effect. Care effect: Reinforces and stimulates hair growth, prevents hair loss and provides restructuring care thanks to Black-Food complex-17. With Cera-complex, it protects from external aggression. The Must-Have-Product for your perfect eyebrows.

Products available on mirecosmetics.com and on 16 worldwide markets including France, Italy, Spain, Poland, etc. *In-vivo test carried out by corneometry on 10 women with dry and very dry skin.

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company

DIVAGE a marketing strategy based on an

increasingly dynamioc and fast market The company has decided to offer capsule collections and quarterly launches to adapt to consumers’ digital dynamics

To meet the challenges of a rapidly evolving market and meet the demand of increasingly 4.0 consumers, Divage has decided to develop a marketing strategy that can adapt to the digital dynamics that are almost always at the heart of the consumer experience today. Over the years, the make-up brand has succeeded in keeping its promise of a quality product that is easy to use, enriching its offer with new entries in line with the demands of the modern woman, obtaining highly successful results on many international markets. This has led to the decision to offer a series of capsule collections and quarterly launches.

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This strategy has made relations with its distribution organization not only closer and more efficient, but has also given a boost of energy and success to the online shop and social presence on which the company is heavily investing. This philosophy characterizes the innovative approach of the company, which aims to satisfy consumers with products that are in greatest demand by today’s women, all over the world. The capsule collections for the last two quarters of the year are HOLO and GOOD VIBES, interpreting two trends which have monopolized Fall Winter 2018: holographic make-up and intense volumes. Holo, consisting of the eyeshadows HoloEyes and the lipgloss HoloLips offers magnetic lips and eyes, in hypnotically bright colours, for futuristic looks with multi-colour reflections: with every movement the colour reflects a different one which recalls the rainbow, encouraging experimentation and creativity. HoloEyes is available in three super shiny shades (light blue, lilac and golden peach) and HoloLips in three sparkling colours (pink, lilac and peach). Good Vibes plays on the positive sensations arising from its products; Eyelash Primer Gel Mascara, the perfect ally to define, lengthen and thicken lashes. Good Vibes mascara offers a spectacular false lash effect for a sexy and hypnotic look and

the Khol Eye Pencil in the new nude colour is perfect for bold looks to bring out the best of the eyes. Lastly, Good Vibes Liquid Shiny Lipstick is an innovative liquid lipstick with an extremely shiny, almost enamelled, finish.

Alongside the capsule collections, the most important new products are for the face, with Face Primer Matt and Luminous Foundation. The Primer is exceptional: it smooths the complexion and minimizes wrinkles, pores, marks on the skin and lines of expression, preparing the skin for flawless and long-lasting make-up. The liquid Luminous Foundation offers high coverage which perfectly smooths the skin and leaves the complexion radiant. Its formula creates a natural radiance and a healthy glow effect is guaranteed.


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ENRICO COVERI presents two new fragrances A celebration of femininity and intriguing freshness for men characterize these two new creations

Paillettes Pearl A new sophisticated, feminine and seductive Eau de Toilette continues the unforgotten and unforgettable Enrico Coveri name of Paillettes. This fragrance is sensual and unexpected with a perfect balance of fruity and floral notes. Gardenia, jasmine and rose form a delightful and chypre bouquet, given sparkle and innovation by the citrus tones of mandarin and bergamot.

The spicy accents of patchouli and caramel close a fascinating and seductive olfactory journey. This evocative fragrance has accords which inspire a luminous and intriguing joyfulness and is a “bespoke� perfume for women looking for a rich and persistent elixir with intoxicating and precious accents. The pearlescent bottle is topped by a copper cap, exalting the seductive fragrance it contains.

Le Nouvel Homme Le Nouvel Homme is the new fragrance for men by Enrico Coveri. A sensation of profound freshness and intriguing appeal are its characteristics. Its fruity and spicy bouquet stimulates the senses and is made luminous by its marine accents, warmed by the well-defined aromas of rum and amber.

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The top notes of bergamot, cardamom and grape ointroduce the heart of marine notes, iris and rum concentrate before yielding to the base notes of Sri Lankan sandalwood, musk, tonka bean and amber-infused crystal. This luxurious and modern fragrance with precious and evocative notes is dedicated to all those men who are looking for a fragrance of a noble race.


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LAUNCH

NOUBA Becoming beautiful effortlessly is within every woman’s reach with Nouba make-up

The grammar of colour is the DNA on which Nouba builds the science of beauty. Knowledge of matter is the paradigm on which it realises the magic of everyday life. Innovation is the inspiration on which it composes opposed melodies of harmonic contrasts. In this way the new Cinema Autumn-Winter 2018 collection is born, with the intention of giving contents for transformation to a constantly evolving woman. Nouba is make-up of the day, of the dream and of the art. It is the alchemy that arises from the fruitful encounter of science, beauty and innovation. “This collection outlines a new direction in the company’s institution” - says Andrea Brambilla, the Marketing Director - “becoming the mirror of every woman’s life: ancestral instinct inside, technological mutation outside.”

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innovative make-up for the modern woman

There are high-level, innovative products such as Hidden Black, a baked eyeshadow rich in special black pigments coated in chameleonic pearls. In order to widen an already abundant selection, Nouba further extends the Millebaci assortment, adding four new charming colours with bold tones and extraordinary staying power. Chameleonic chromatism is the common theme that characterizes the collection: oxidized copper, aged and distressed patina, wisely aged bronze metals, a natural way to jump into the eternal as only a true muse could do.

The colours are like dusty pastels anchored by dark purple and viridian. Shades of lead and grey make up the core palette, with primary shades of blue and black chocolate emerging as new core colours. Bright accents forged from neutral colours in contrast with dark micro-spangled shades. The Nouba make-up Muse, lives on audacious contrasts and is ready for her own movie role. The Nouba woman is a muse able to fall in love with a colourful shiver, to feed on harmonised contrasts and to be inspired by a rational thrill. Her nature is logical and intuitive, she is a woman in spontaneous mutation, an incursion into imagination and a bath of everyday life. She is a woman who lives more than a present time, a chameleon able to adapt to the environment thanks to a constant harmonic balance of her chromatic dissonances. “The aim of my job is to provide every woman with the tools to become instantly beautiful, effortlessly, but mainly to develop colours that are capable of plucking the strings of instinct, always creating new emotions.”


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ULTRA CURLING EFFECT

SUPER LENGTHENING EFFECT

PH © Susi Belianska

AMAZING VOLUME EFFECT

www.astramakeup.com

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Beauty where the continents meet!

20-22 June 2019

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PH Š Susi Belianska

T H E T E M P TAT I O N P A L E T T E FA L L I N TO T E M P TAT I O N Dedicated to those who want to be tempted by colors and are not afraid to dare. The Temptation Palettes will make every eye-makeup irresistible, thanks to an iconic and sublime color selection. They come in three different color options and each palette is the perfect combination of 12 shades with both metal and mat finishes. A sumptuous combination of nuances that can be mixed to create endless contrasts between precious spotlights and seductive shadows. The silky, soft, highly pigmented powders allow an intense color release.

www.astramakeup.com

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PH Š Susi Belianska

Hydra Lipsclick is the new lipstick that sculpts and volumizes in just one move. Two combinations of colors ton-sur-ton that melt in one lipstick for an immediate sculpting volume effect. The color enclosed in the center lights up the heart of the lips, while the darker color on the outside gives deepness and definition.

www.astramakeup.com

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INTERVIEW

An interview with Said Falah Zadeh, Astra Export manager

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Astra has been present for many years in some of the most important European markets such as France and Spain. What is the situation for 2018? How has the action of rebranding been perceived in these countries? What are the results of this first half of the year? SAID FALAH ZADEH: The Astra brand is constantly expanding and is already present in more than 30 countries. The most important European markets are countries like France and Spain, where we have been for some time with satisfactory results but our objective is to grow

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ASTRA a constantly expanding brand further and make Astra become a brand of reference in the world of Italian make-up. We are trying to achieve this objective through organizing structured work which produces its results in the long term, functionally and long-lasting. The recent reinforcement of our Marketing department, a team made up of young people attentive to all the latest trends, has played a fundamental role so that we could introduce ourselves to export markets in a completely new way. The recent rebranding operation has been a real reason for pride, reflecting a company in continuous evolution.

This was also noticed abroad and helped us a great deal in attracting the attention of potential buyers from other countries, especially following meetings on the occasions of our participation in trade fairs such as Cosmoprof 2018 in Bologna and Beautyworld Middle East in Dubai. Going on to the export market is always a great challenge: the difference between the Italian market and the rest of the world is often underestimated but there is not only a simple division that distinguishes them, but a whole series of cultural aspects to take into consideration and evaluate with care.

These aspects represent the basis of the specific needs and demands to be satisfied which are very different depending on the country under consideration. This is precisely our objective: to try and answer promptly and exactly the most widely varying requests from our markets of reference. EM: In a now global market, the presence of Astra on emerging markets such as the Arab ones will be decisive for the coming years. What are your strategies in this regard? Â SFZ: At strategic level, imposing our presence on emerging markets such as the Arab ones


INTERVIEW

is one of our main objectives and we are already obtaining positive results and good appreciation, in a market which looks for promptness and which asks us to respond increasingly accurately and specifically. The strategy that we are trying to pursue is definitely based on direct contact above all through participating in the major trade fairs) and stakes everything on rapid times of response and delivery of the finished product, on the high quality of our products and on the fact that they are MADE IN ITALY, a characteristic of unquestionable appreciation in foreign countries, especially in the Arab world.

Our competitive prices also certainly play a fundamental role for the spread of our brand in these countries. This allows us to offer a wide range of tools with very high performances which become indispensable in the beauty routine of consumers but without sacrificing their budget. EM: Astra has always stood out for being a brand that makes the price/quality ratio its hobby horse. What is your positioning on foreign markets? SFZ: Yes, as I have already said, the price/quality ratio has always been one of Astra’s indisputable prerogatives. At the same time, ours is a product that is MADE IN ITALY and of quality and this makes it very

sought after and appreciated throughout the world, especially in the Middle East. This is all the more true when you consider that the positioning of our products abroad is higher than on the Italian market. We are widely distributed in different areas, with supermarkets and mass retail, medium-high level perfumeries and some pharmacies as our main sales channels. Obviously to defend a strategy such as ours, we have to be very attentive and cautious, always trying to establish farsighted and lasting relations, in a market where it is becoming increasingly complex to move today.

C.S.

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INTERVIEW

ART COSMETICS technology, creativity and team-building These are some of the elements of success of the company founded 28 years ago by Piero Origo

INTERVIEW WITH PIERO ACCARDO, ART COSMETICS CEO EXPORT MAGAZINE: Art Cosmetics is today a well-established company at international level in the sector of third-party manufacturing of decorative cosmetics. Can you tell us about your journey to your position in the top five players of the sector? PIERO ACCARDO: The story of Art Cosmetics started 28 years ago, founded by Piero Origo, our current Chairman. We are one of the longestestablished companies in what is known as the ‘Italian Cosmetic Valley’, created with the production of a specific category, that of lips. A chemist and formulator of great value and

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experience, it was precisely from lipsticks which are still one of our points of excellence, that Piero Origo started his successful adventure in the world of make-up. Still with the same scientific approach, we then tackled a very technical sector, that of emulsions, in particular of foundations, which is another strong point of Art Cosmetics. From the very beginning and until the present time, we have always proposed formulas that are new, taking advantage of the collaboration of important Japanese raw material laboratories, to be certain of using the best ingredients and methods existing on the market.

EM: Is the mission your founder pursued still an integral part of the company’s identity and its growth? PA: The spirit of the founder, based on a highly advanced research technique, is what has given the company its hallmark. We are a company that does not produce commodities, but specialities, therefore a mission which aims directly for excellence. We are in tune with the current trend of make-up both for the creation of new ideas, concepts and colours, and regarding hybridization with skincare: it is not by chance that we were the first manufacturers in the private label sector to propose BB creams, under the direction of Dr Laura Monti, our director of research. In 2006, when we starting to produce the powders, we brought innovation into a very traditional world. Around this category we have built up a very significant business, in continuous progression. EM: What does your industrial plan for the future include? PA: In the first place the opening of a new factory not far from the current one in Mozzanica, and also the establishment, in the current site, of a centre of excellence for powders, including the production pole.

In the new factory we will be manufacturing the emulsions and anhydrous formulations, the foundations, the mascaras and the lipsticks. We will be hosting a new centre of innovation with a laboratory of 1500 square metres, where by innovation we mean the development not only of the formula part, but also of the technological one, with the arrival of very advanced new machinery. We plan a pilot area where to experiment the new working processes, as well as the offices of the management, marketing, sales and relative show-room. The project of the new site is essential to support the growth we are planning. Art Cosmetics has doubled its turnover in two years, going from euro 45 million in 2015 to the current 93 million, with the objective of reaching 180 million in four years. From the point of view of human resources, we will be adding to the current 450 employees, another 350/400 for the second site. EM: The word ART is an integral part of your brand, can we say that it is the interpretation of your strategy? PA: We are Art Cosmetics in name and in fact.


INTERVIEW

We live our passion for cosmetics like a form of art which has to stimulate the experimentation and satisfy the taste for beauty. EM: As you have illustrated to us, development goes hand in hand with the perfecting of the technological instruments and production structures, as well as naturally the implementation of R&D. What are the other steps that you have taken or are taking to reach optimal customer satisfaction? PA: Customer satisfaction goes through two variables: the quality of our products, which is ‘the condition’ around which we have built a solid company which can take on a client, providing them

with a class A service, and which forms in a certain sense the ‘hard’ part and the ‘soft’ part made up of human resources: it is the women and men who make the difference. EM: Dr Accardo, what are the priorities that you gave yourself when you joined the company? PA: The context in which I was asked to join that of heading the managerialization of the company. Art Cosmetics was overcoming the critical threshold due to the strong growth of business and everything that derived from it, hence the necessity to build up a project that was attractive to the best talents of our ‘Italian Cosmetic Valley’, so that they became the leading players i the medium term of reaching an

optimal model of development. I think that the growth of business has to go hand in hand with that of the organization; for this reason we have aimed at reinforcing our structure by taking on the best competences. EM: How important is team-building? PA: It is fundamental. The discourse that we have carried on with people, with the support of an enlightened ownership, has strongly pushed in this direction. In the past year we have recruited about a hundred people, who have become an integral part of the Art Cosmetics family. Thanks to this, we believe that ours is a solid project.

EM: Proportionally, how is your turnover broken down? PA: Almost 90% of our sales come from foreign markets. Although Art Cosmetics has its roots in the Italian market, thanks to which it has been able to express its know-how, it is clear that today, especially when you operate as we do on premium markets, the hub is global. EM: How are you structured at a commercial level? PA: The company today has 280 clients in 29 different countries and covers all the segments of the market: prestige, masstige, mass, specialty stores, direct marketing and pharmaceutical.

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INTERVIEW

We have organized our teams by geographical area, to meet the different needs in terms of products and services. In the United States, which represents one-third of our sales, there is Art Cosmetics U.S. with a head office and dedicated tem. The same in France, which is a fundamental market. The US market in particular, asks for Italian excellence with an impeccable service. Both these characteristics distinguish us. Last year we opened a commercial office in Seoul, for the purpose not only of proposing our products, but also of getting to know better the local offerings, in a sort of contamination deriving from the observations that we both have specialities that the other does not have. Each work team has a back office on the market itself, however the development of projects, research and production all take place only in Mozzanica. Our choice is to produce 100% in Italy, and in the Italian Cosmetic Valley, in the triangle that joins Bergamo, Crema and Milan, an area which has always concentrated the largest companies operating in the sector of third-party cosmetic manufacturing. EM: Where do you see new potential markets? PA: I believe that the far East is the challenge for the whole sector; the clients are young, it has a make-up culture often based on local brands of the mass market. I am referring for example to China, a complex market but one with an enormous potential. Many of our clients record a growth in their turnovers precisely in the Far East. Art is still not very present directly, we are in a phase of attentive reflection.

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EM: What is the main aim of your participation in the international trade shows? PA: As well as being an opportunity to meet our current and potential clients, presence at the shows has become a circular phenomenon and almost our internal calendar. Throughout the whole year, we meet the various operators, and not only from the area where the event is held. This means that we present highly segmented collections, up to making a collection to measure for the client at the very time. At shows which are very important for us such as Cosmopack and Make up in New York, we present a collection called Art Lab, characterized by the highest points of innovation. This joins the various collections of the trends. At Make up in Los Angeles we present ‘smart’ products. Each event is therefore attentively evaluated to implement the most suitable strategies.

C.S.


Organiser - Cosmoprof Asia Ltd

Sales Office Asia Pacific: UBM Asia Ltd - Hong Kong - ph. +852.2827.6211 - fax +852.3749.7345 - cosmasia-hk@ubm.com Sales Office Europe, Africa, Middle East, The Americas: BolognaFiere S.p.a. - Bologna - Italy - international@bolognafiere.it for info: ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 - international@cosmoprof.it | Marketing and Promotion: BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. - Milan - Italy - ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 - info@cosmoprof.it

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INTERVIEW

COSMETICA ITALIA interesting future developments Interview with Renato Ancorotti, President

At the end of June, Renato Ancorotti officially took up the appointment of President of Cosmetica Italia. In this interview, the first future projects aimed at developing the activities in favour of the members of the national Association of Cosmetic Companies emerge.

EXPORT MAGAZINE: We also extend a warm welcome for the new appointment you have recently taken up. What changes when from being a member you become President? RENATO ANCOROTTI: Being a member helps understand the activity of the association and can be introductory to becoming President, of course it is something completely different, both for the responsibilities that are assumed and for the automatically broader vision. So far the experience has been very positive, it requires considerable commitment, I was aware of this so I gladly dedicate all the time necessary. It is a position which involves me, which brings me into contact

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with different sectors of activity, as well as what I deal with as an entrepreneur, that of contract manufacturing of make up. Today I have a more complete vision over all the other sectors of cosmetics, close to mine in certain aspects but different both from the point of view of production and of sale. To answer the different situations that make up the sector in an adequate way, inside Cosmetica Italia there are six product groups. Made up of companies which are similar by commercial and/or manufacturing activity: Herbalist’s Cosmetics Trade Group, Cosmetics in Pharmacies Group, Cosmetics in Perfume Shops Group, Cosmetics for Beauty Salons Group, Professional Products for Hairdressers Group and the Contract Manufacturing Group.

Each Group has its relative President who promotes and develops activities in line with the respective sectors and channels of competence. EM: Can you illustrate some short-term objectives? RA: Cosmetica Italia must increasingly be the place where companies meet, for discussion and solutions. This is why we will be committed to building up proactive contacts, including through targeted visits to the head offices of the companies, which put industrial activities back in the centre and put the structure in the conditions to support them as best as possible, focusing on assistance, training and services with a view to consolidating the

relationship between the Association and its members. Precisely with this in mind, in November there will be the first stage of IncontriamoCI, the local appointments of the Association, which will be held in Florence; three more stages will follow in the first part of 2019 in three other Italian cities. We will also be approaching companies that are not members, raising their awareness on our activities, hoping to have them as new members. One topic for us that is fundamental is: a member of Cosmetica Italia has to have the feeling that belonging to the Association is not a mere formality but an added value. Being a member means counting on help to improve the company.


INTERVIEW

EM: At the last General Meeting you clearly said that you were in favour of extending the membership base, not only numerically. Can you explain this better? RA: Of course. I am referring to those companies which operate in the cosmetic centre and which, however, are too isolated. Let’s take for example the packagers, the fillers: they are fully entitled to belong to Cosmetica Italia. The cosmetic sector is very wide and being able to bring together all those who work in this field, in the different disciplines, is one of our objectives. We are convinced that by bringing the cosmetic culture to the complementary sectors we will obtain positive feedback for the whole chain, as well as important numbers for the growth of the Association. EM: One of the topics of great interest is internationalization … RA: Internationalization is one of the topics dearest to the companies, especially those of a small-medium size, and the Association has a very intense activity in this sense. In addition, there can be a profitable exchange of experiences between the member companies: I am thinking, for example, of the multinationals that can play a supporting role in transferring part of their know-how to other companies, so that they understand better the complex topic of international development.

EM: What are the actions that Cosmetica Italia undertakes to promote internationalization? RA: The main one is through trade fair activities: the collaboration that links us to Cosmoprof allows us to take the excellence of our sector into the world, thanks to the appointments of Bologna, Las Vegas, Hong Kong and, the recent new one of Mumbai. Participation in trade fairs is an important approach of study and knowledge of the various markets; in addition there is the organization of commercial missions to some foreign countries, also based on the needs that have emerged from the companies themselves. These missions are held with the assistance, including economic, of institutional partners including ITA – Italian Trade Agency, the special agency of the Chamber of Commerce of Milan for internationalization activities. Another important aspect that completes the support of the Association for the activities of cosmetic SME is made up of training courses that study specific topics relative to export. Let’s not forget, lastly, some special projects which, in the medium-long term, will allow companies to approach markets such as the USA and China with innovative instruments and activities designed for specific targets. EM: What are the most frequent requests by members? RA: Cosmetica Italia offers support to the member companies

on various fronts, from the technical-regulatory field to international relations, up to market analyses and marketing and communication. Then there can be more transversal topics which require the involvement of several competences. We can think for example of the case of a company that to export its products not only has to ‘sell’ but also have a cultural approach in tune with the customs and habits of the individual markets. This is the case of halal cosmetics or, speaking about specific needs of some consumers, vegan cosmetics. A company can find itself having to deal with characteristics which are not limited to specific area but to several parts of the world. The logical reasoning that follows, and which concerns increasing numbers of cosmetics manufacturers, is that of succeeding in putting on to the market products which can be destined for the majority of consumers. The Association can be a valid support both with instruments of analysis of specific markets or clusters of consumers, and by offering the due indications of a more legislative nature. EM: Can you describe to us in brief the ‘fundamental’ mission of Cosmetica Italia? RA: Cosmetica Italia favours and represents with an ethical and responsible spirit the development of the sector; internally, it offers services to its members to increase corporate culture, whilst externally it promotes the values of the sector and protects its interests.

In the course of my term of office, amongst the different objectives, I will focus on the topic of reputation: the Italian cosmetics industry deserves being recognized, including by the institutions, for its great excellence. There is a lot of talk about food, fashion, still not enough about cosmetics. Let me remind you that this year’s turnover of the Italian cosmetics industry is 11.5 billion, with a growth of 4.5%; the weight on the balance of payments is positive, as we export more than we import. EM: Again at the last General Meeting, you underlined the importance of giving a scientific aspect to any action that is undertaken. RA: The ‘regulatory’ part is one of the most important aspects the Association deals with. Asserting the respect of the principles of health and safety for the consumer, that are at the basis of the European Cosmetics Regulation, is a key point against information which at times is superficial and alarmist, which plays on the emotional repercussion of certain messages and not on their scientific grounds. Another aspect of our sector that it is important to make known is that linked to social responsibility and sustainability, of which we spoke recently at Milano XL (12-24 September). This attention is translated, on the one hand in the sponsorship of La forza e il sorriso non-profit organization and on the other, in projects and training and information activities on the theme of environmental sustainability.

C.S.

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INTERVIEW

CONFALONIERI for three generations the MATITE passion and expertise in producing wooden cosmetic pencils INTERVIEW WITH LUCA CONFALONIERI, CEO

Confalonieri Matite, a company whose philosophy, ever since its foundation, has been based on caring for the environment, its employees and the users of the cosmetic pencils they make, has its headquarters in a magnificent villa surrounded by mountains covered by trees and flowers. EXPORT MAGAZINE: Schwan-Stabilo has recently put waterproof wooden cosmetic pencils on the market, underlining the importance of offering products that are eco-sustainable and at the same time performing and waterproof. What are your thoughts on this? LUCA CONFALONIERI: If you are referring to the interview recently given to Premium Beauty News by Mrs Dagmar Chlosta, Chief Market

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Officer of Schwan Cosmetics, I can only thank her for having highlighted the reasons of a choice… which our company made ten years ago. EM: What were the reasons for this choice? LC: Historical reasons, which are part of the DNA of our family. My father made graphite pencils and coloured pastel crayons for schools, absolutely only in wood. My grandfather was also born with wood, for example making rulers for offices, products used by tailors to draw their patterns, as well as cases. If it is true that wood is a noble material, it is also clear that at the end of the 19th century there were no other materials available.

EM: Was the fact of having continued this tradition, not adding other articles made from other materials, a marketing decision? LC: When I started our business at the end of the 1960s, I immediately started with the concept of offering quality products; as early as 1969 we were selling cosmetic pencils with leads that followed the American FDA rules. Confalonieri Matite has the luck not to be in an industrial area surrounded by cement; there are trees, mountains and flowers around us and we have no intention of damaging the fantastic environment we are in, in the valley of Chiavenna. Incidentally, I would like to mention my paternal grandfather, Guido Confalonieri. An executive of the Italian Post Office, signs of real entrepreneurship. The production included chalks for all purposes, from the office to school and tailoring. My maternal grandfather was no less an entrepreneur, because he developed the whole supply chain of silk on the river Adda, from the cultivation of mulberries to silkworms, to the reels of silk thread for the production of stockings and also, during the war, parachutes. I am speaking of the past to give an explanation

of the decisions and the values that are still fundamental for me, representing the third generation of entrepreneurs. During the war, our factories gave work to the women whose husbands were at the front or who had been widowed; we still employ many young women. For me, being entrepreneurs means, as well as producing income, an indispensable factor for the good evolution of the company, taking pleasure in doing something for others, giving work in our valley, in particular to women, who represent the majority of our workforce. My objective is and always will be to apply, in my business as well, ‘ethical’ behaviour towards the environment and people. EM: Is it important for you to promote eco-sustainability? LC: Definitely; we always have to think about how a product will be disposed of after use and it is not as simple as you might think. We try, for all the different components, to use raw materials that are as least aggressive as possible, doing careful research amongst the best producers in the world. With the exception for the varnishes and the caps, wood is the material we use and it can absolutely be defined natural and eco-sustainable, i.e. recyclable.


INTERVIEW

EM: Where does the wood you use come from? LC: Until today it has come from California; the most suitable type of wood for us to use is incense-cedar, now American. This is why recently we have been doing a study, with the consultancy of the National Research Council, to find a material produced in Italy that is at the same time the result of a cultivated forest. In this way we can be increasingly in line with our objectives, including the important one of implementing a real eco-sustainability, for example by reducing the pollution derived from long-distance transport. EM: What is it that makes the quality of Confalonieri pencils stand out? LC: In the first place the extreme attention paid in the manufacturing of the leads, of which all the raw materials are certified. We have separate production departments for the traditional leads and for the organic and vegan ones. Some types of leads re produced by extrusion, others by pouring, with the possibility of infinite variations of texture and colour. You only have to think that we can produce 10,000 different colours. The quality of our pencil goes hand in hand with the flexibility of production; we go from traditional standard pencils to the possibility of making pencils in the sizes and colours requested by customers. Customization is what allows the various brands to stand out on the market and, especially

today, it is important to be fast on offering articles that are always new. Our company can supply from 2000 pieces for each article, by colour and for each size, in 90 calendar days. This allows us to satisfy every type of customer, large, medium and small. Our quality is based, as well as on technology and an aesthetic sense, on two essential elements, on ‘expertise’: we have always made pencils and in the same area, aligning the production cycle with those solutions that can be put into practice only with the experience of life and work. Many of the processes that we use in production were created in our factory, by our employees. People who are passionate about their work and who are an integral part of the technology and of the company.

EM: You recently took an important step, with the enlargement of the factory. Are you thinking of adding other product categories? LC: I repeat that Confalonieri Matite was founded to produce wooden cosmetic pencils, this is our DNA and it cannot change. We have doubled the space to allow for a greater production capacity of cosmetic pencils and to be able to dedicate, as said

earlier, a separate section for organic pencils. Allow me to make an observation; there are very few factories in the whole world that make cosmetic pencils; but how many manufacturers of lipsticks and eye shadows are there? Thousands, without a doubt… I repeat our firm intention to devote ourselves to what we know how to do well, thanks to a family tradition which is continually renewed. EM: Producing quality requires a commitment on several fronts, do you agree? LC: Of course; it’s not enough to say, we produce in Italy, or are ‘made in Italy’ as usual. Extreme attention has to be paid to raw materials; ma y of these have not been developed for the production of cosmetic pencils, I am referring for example to the pigments, to the oils and to the waxes normally used for lipsticks, eye shadows or mascaras… We have to experiment and check continuously. An important commitment that we take every day is to provide a fast and flawless service to our customers, independently of the volumes requested, and this is feasible only by

counting on a high specialization of our personnel and on the advanced technology of our machinery. We have divided production into ten sectors, for each of which there is a manager; all report to a technical director whose scrupulousness is exemplary. For a few years we have been supported by the general manager, so that every step taken to manage and develop the company is pondered and sustainable. Squaring the circle can be complicated,

the important thing is to carry on Italian creativity and be capable of producing, maybe differently from others, but always pleasant in the way and in the results, wooden cosmetic pencils, depending on the new trends. Waterproof? We’ve been making them for at least 10 years…. EM: How much do you make for the Italian market and how much for abroad? LC: Today sales re divided 65% for Italy and 35% for abroad, with the future objective of increasing export keeping the quality and service that distinguish us. Everything that is marked Confalonieri Matite comes out of the warehouses of our production site, in the heart of the valley that is so full of meaning for our family. EM: We have heard about the initiative ‘Confalonieri for Children’. What is it exactly? LC: Always driven by the intention to do something for my neighbour, and having received so much from life, I decided to create a foundation that dealt with communication between youngsters, between the ones that live here and others who come to spend a weekend or holidays at the foot of the Alps. An exchange of culture and experiences so that they can become friends, spend time together, appreciating an area that is so ‘fertile’ not only from the material point of view but also the spiritual one. Today, when the Internet at times takes over from traditional communication, to the point of becoming, in extreme cases, considered an addiction, coming to see us, regaining old values, from nature and good food helps us to recover a human dimension. A message of optimism that I wanted to give young people through our foundation.

C.S.

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hsacosmetics.com · shop.hsacosmetics.com

With over 30 years of expertise in hair color and care, we connect our clients with their dreams, creating beloved and successful hair and skin care brands thanks to pioneering product concepts, formulas, design and full-service partnerships. We are the partners of more than 120 brands living in 90 countries all over the world and we offer a wealth of 1000 formulas Made in Italy. We distribute 4 own brands both in the professional market and retail: Nouvelle, Silky, Eslabondexx and Guudcure.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY INDIA Mumbai 1ST- 2ND October · WABEL Paris 10TH- 11TH October INTERCHARM Moscow 24TH- 27TH October · COSMOPROF ASIA Hong Kong 14th-16th November

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History, dedication, color and love are the essential ingredients to describe Layla in a few words. The company was founded in the year 1936 when Emanuele Rossetti, after a long stay in the USA, brought the nail enamel production to Italy. In 1975 Emma Rossetti, daughter of the founder, suddenly found herself leading this wonderful Italian reality. During this time Layla has become the most recognizable nail polish brand in Italy and today is a top 3 brand in the soak off gel category. The ever-growing Layla make-up products range continues to adapt to market demands offering high quality at a reasonable price. Layla is present on the market with more than 2.500 items handcrafted in its Milanese laboratories and it is recognized worldwide as a synonym for quality and innovation. Distributed in the most prestigious retail and professional stores, Layla also has a flagship store, LAYLALAND, in Milan, Italy's most fashionable metropolis.

www.laylacosmetics.it laylacosmetics 78


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Two technologies that come together to create an innovative system. The meeting between gel and acrylic. Reconstruction will never be the same again. It replaces methods already found on the market guaranteeing technical and visual satisfaction. Its firm and dense consistency will give you the security of a precise application. You can fully enjoy your work because for the first time the product will do only what you want. There will no longer be any problems of product leaking onto the cuticles. There will no longer be any non-existent “C-CURVES�. LAYLACRYGEL does not stick to the cuticles and the product that sets on the skin will be very easy to eliminate before the polymerisation. LAYLACRYGEL allows for strong nails and a technically perfect reconstruction right from the first applications. A dream for all nail technicians. HYBRID FORMULATION Take the best from acrylic and gel to create a product that is fully odourless and fully free from harmful acids, capable of offering unlimited working times. We have eliminated the dispersion layer eliminating the use of the degreaser. Convenience and ease of use are the keywords of this new Layla Cosmetics project.

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The

E U Q I N U ONLY & p event u e k a m B o Bt

Shanghai Exhibition Center

15 & 16 April 2019

Conrad Hotel

makeup-in.com

20 & 21 June 2019

Paris

Barker Hangar

10 & 11 April 2019

Seoul

Center 415

27 & 28 February 2019

Shanghai

12 & 13 Sept. 2018

LosAngeles

NewYork

T N E N I T N IN Y O U R C O

Carrousel du Louvre

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COMPANY

M:PLUS COSMETICS more than mascara! Since its beginning back in 2002 the small mascara contract manufacturer born from an idea of Mr. David Chant has walked a long distance in the cosmetic arena, undergoing deep, structural changes in its organization and positioning on the worldwide market. The company strategic positioning within the international cosmetic contract manufacturing industry has been slowly but constantly evolving from a mascara manufacturer to a 360° cosmetic hub. A crucial indicator in this evolution has been the company logo, representing the primary communication tool towards external partners and stakeholders: from Mascara Plus ITALIA at the very beginning, to strengthen the “Made-in-Italy”

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characteristic of the small lab., through Mascara PLUS, to underline more the “PLUS” represented by the fiber brushes development and manufacturing, up to Mascara Plus COSMETICS, to focus on the color cosmetics production, being added to the company basic mascara offer. 12th September 2018 is definitely marking a new milestone in the company history, with the new logo being officialized at Make Up in New York: M:PLUS COSMETICS, more than mascara! Company offer includes today a consolidated wide range of make-up products for face, eyes and lips, many of which characterized by an extremely high degree of innovation and distinctiveness. Core strength and key point of distinction of the company shall always remain its unmatched and unmatchable expertise, knowhow and leading-edge within the mascara

and the fiber brush category. At the same time, the company objective for the future is to be able to make a difference and become a reference contract manufacturer and an innovation hub also within the color cosmetics sector: the new logo and payoff shall help to achieve this! While the marketing activity has been focused on how to communicate the company evolution externally, major new developments are underway internally: • New plant expansion from 4500sqm to 7500sqm to be completed by mid 2019 • A jump in total workforce up to 200 units • An increase in overall production capacity by over 60% With a turnover expected to surpass € 30mio at the end of 2018!

y Flexibilit t e k r a n, m Time-to- ation - Innovatio ! s iz l a - Specia e beyond mascar y with an e


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INTERVIEW

MILA MOURSI a legend in the u.s. spa world Her long career in treating skin inspired her to create Mila Moursi Advanced Skin Care Brand

INTERVIEW WITH Mila Moursi, founder of Mila Moursi Advanced Skin Care & Mila Moursi Skin Care Institute EXPORT MAGAZINE: Ms. Mila, can you explain to us from where your interest for cosmetics is coming? Mila Moursi: My path has been a winding road of learning and cultivating a background of experience within different facets of the skin care industry. All those combined elements have led to my passion and enjoyment of what I do every day. Product development truly became my calling, and I was inspired to create a true high-performance brand with the start of Mila Moursi Advanced Skin Care by investing only in top-level concentrations of actives and extracts for maximum effect. I also truly believe in the synergy of product and treatment as part of a commitment to healthy skin, thus I was inspired to fashion my particular spa techniques through the inspiration from traveling to many different international spa cultures over the years.

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We have vigorous training for the aestheticians to master my distinct dry contouring protocol for the spa that lifts and tones skin naturally. EM: What is your professional story? We know that you are French and moved to the U.S. very young.  MM: Actually, I'm a proud mix of Moroccan-Algerian and French heritage. I grew up in Paris, and have had more than 35 years experience in the industry. I then moved on to study Hydrotherapy in England (which is incorporated into Mila Moursi Day Spa services). Realizing my passion for creating products, I studied cosmetic chemistry under cosmetology pioneer Dr. Louis Renaud in Paris. I also worked with Dr. Renaud to create all the original Mila Moursi formulations. Upon moving to the U.S., I established the Mila Moursi Day Spa & Skin Care Institute in 1981 in Beverly Hills, and the Advanced Skin Care line in 1985 which focuses specifically on anti-aging skin care.

EM: You have a long experience in treating skin. You run successfully your SPA in L.A. and you you make your clients feel better. Are you satisfied of the way you exerce your profession? MM: Yes, definitely. Our philosophy at Mila Moursi Skin Care Institute & Day Spas is head-to-toe beauty, and we really approach treatments as a partnership between the client and us where we handle the exterior and they are responsible for the interior aspect. Our aestheticians have the knowledge, manual technique, and equipment to do their part; but the client must then do their part with following their daily regimen at-home and maintaining a healthy lifestyle. The health of the skin depends on lifestyle, hydration, sleep and positive well-being. Clients must also make the commitment to properly cleanse, polish, regenerate and nourish the skin with our recommended customized regimen. It’s about prepping the skin so it can be properly treated, and then maintaining the routine to always be refreshing the skin layers. EM: What did bring you to create your cosmetic line? There are already so many products on the market...

MM: I maintain that one should choose quality over quantity. Of course it does depend on skin type and budget. But it should be about performance of a product - often products can have a higher price due to the high percentage of anti-aging actives such as hyaluronic acid, peptides and amino acids. So one true multi-tasking product may have a higher price point, but could equal that of several lower priced products with lower percentages of individual actives. We incorporate the best of science and nature into our formulas we never skimp on quality. I am very involved in the clinicals in my R&D, and rely on strong delivery systems for the actives as that can really propel the product to maximum penetration and performance. EM: Which is the philosophy behind your brand and what makes it unique? MM: My philosophy for restoring and maintaining radiant skin is rooted in the synergy of science and nature, and has evolved through 30 years experience with Mila Moursi Day Spa & Skin Care Institutes and my Advanced Skin Care line.


INTERVIEW

• free radical damage • dryness • fine lines • dark spots/uneven skin tone. • inflammation Remember, skin care doesn’t stop at the face. Our daily rituals must address maintenance of our beautiful bodies as well. As skin is affected by our daily habits, stress and environmental pollutants; lifestyle also plays a significant role in aging gracefully. Living a healthy lifestyle includes regular face and body treatments to maintain the skin texture and

At Mila Moursi, we believe in a dedicated daily ritual of manually connecting with your skin to enhance our products’ top performing actives that encourage a natural, healthy glow and keep skin firm and supple.

address any concerns, along with diet, proper hydration, and plenty of oxygen and nature. EM: You can surely be proud of the achievements you got during your long career, what could make you even more satisfied, in the nearest future? MM: Thank you! Yes, looking forward, I would like to continue sharing my knowledge and products with more corners of the world, and continue to learn and be inspired.

C.S.

Our Mila Moursi Advanced Skin Care line offers customized, nourishing regimens to revitalize and protect skin from the five key factors responsible for accelerating the aging process of skin cells:

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COMPANY ARTISTIC PERFUMERY

AGATHO culture, experience and passion The exquisite porcelain of Capodimonte and the buried city of Pompeii have inspired the fragrances of this young brand

Agatho was the name of one of the most famous fragrance makers in ancient Pompeii, the city buried when Mount Vesuvius, overlooking Naples, erupted in Roman times, rediscovered after the excavations initiated by Charles III of Bourbon in the 18th century. This enlightened ruler was also the founder, together

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with his wife Amalia of Saxon, of the Real Fabbrica of Capodimonte, a centre for the production of fine porcelain, esteemed by collectors and connoisseurs all over the world. These elements come together in the brand of fragrance Agatho, with fragrances contained in packaging inspired by the decorations of the tablinum, or reception room, of the Villa dei Misteri, a Pompeii home famous for its frescoes of the myth of Dionysus, sealing the mystique and ancestral sensory nature of the fragrances. Rossopompeiano captures all the freshness of the Mediterranean, with citrus notes accompanying the sensuality of the Damascus rose, sublimated in sinuous oriental echoes, and is inspired by the colour which made so famous and unmistakable in the world the walls of the Pompeii villas. The pigment, obtained from the mineral cinnabar, is the emblem of a piece of history and of the city of the perfumer Agatho. The bottle, simple in its elegance, is crowned by a cap f fine porcelain which reveals the preciousness of gold and silver, taking

on the gleam and refinement of pearl, with which it blossoms a new and the story of this city of eternal beauty is given new life. It is the power of the myth and the elegance of the garden that inspires GiardinodiErcole, a refined and vigorous essence. Bergamot and Juniper berries

take shape on a carpet of incense, fading out in the persistent suggestion of oriental woods. The presence of marble Hercules in the garden of the perfumer’s house, a triumph of courage and immortality, raises to the level of myth the creations by Agatho and GiardinodiErcole becomes a fragrance.


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EVENTS

China Beauty Expo (CBE), Asia’s largest beauty trade show, will celebrate its 24th anniversary at the Shanghai New International Expo Center from May 20-22, 2019.

CBE 2019 will bring together 500,000 trade visitors from 85 countries and regions and coming from all channels, including department stores,

shopping malls, supermarkets, specialty chain stores, beauty salons, nail salons, SPAs, hair salons, plastic surgery hospitals and e-commerce outlets.

China Beauty the Hub of Expo 2019 Beauty in Asia

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China Beauty Expo introduces its “innovation and fashion” theme to connect international cosmetic players across each segment of the industry. CBE provides a unique branding and trading platform for international companies that are developing business in Asia and building a foothold in China

CBE chooses Shanghai as the foothold is because the organizer wants to offer all exhibitors and visitors a business platform as well as a ultra-fashion experience. For you, the three-day beauty show is not only a commercial event but also a chance to feel the city in a fashion and science way.

Why Shanghai As the China's largest economic center and trading port, Shanghai is a city with modern features and Chinese traditional culture. Pop-up shops of fashion top brands, leading shopping malls, runways, fashion week, art festivals make Shanghai become a trendy city where more home and abroad young generations, celebrities, designers and elites in fashion industries gather.

Policy Release – Promoting the Imported Goods From July 1 this year, the State Council executive meeting decided to further reduce the import tariffs on consumer goods. Among them, the average import tariff rate on detergent products and cosmetic products such as skin care, hair products decrease from 8.4% to 2.9%. Unprecedented tax reduction is undoubtedly promoting imported cosmetics.

Demands of Young Generations are Rapidly Upgrading Today we will focus on the generation of post 90s aging between 19 to 28 who account for 31% of the whole population. The post 90s have grown as the major shopping group with enormous potential in China’s marketplace. The 1990s are born in an era of China’s rapid growth and booming of the internet, so they have different shopping habits compared with the elders. They want to be unique, trend to like novel things and have a different taste for fashion. From the perspective of products, the young consumers not only have demand for the quality of products, but also begin to pay more attention


EVENTS

to the packaging, design of the products as well as the storytelling behind it. Some cute and cool elements which embody their character and style become the key purchase driver for them. In a word, they pay attention to the products rather than a brand name. 90% of the Booths for China Beauty Expo 2019 Have Been Sold With 1,000+ Exhibitors on the Waiting List China Beauty Expo 2018 featured 13,000 international standard booths – a year-on-year increase of more than 14.7%. The show has steadily added and expanded new, popular halls such as the W2 Cosmetics Hall and W4/W5 Packaging Materials Hall. The rapid expansion of CBE has driven strong growth across all 17 of its halls. Now, less than two months after the close of China Beauty Expo 2018, CBE has already announced that booth space for China Beauty Expo 2019 will soon be sold out.

New Outdoor Pavilions Add China Beauty Expo 2019 Capacity To meet rising exhibitor demand, CBE is working to add 8 semi-permanent outdoor pavilions in the central area of the Shanghai New International Expo Centre. These additional halls will host the Fashionable & Innovative Packaging Hall, Premium Personal Care Hall, Make-up Art Hall, Cross-border E-commerce Hall, International Premium Beauty Hall, Global Sourcing Hall and Advanced Science & Innovation Hall. CBE will bring together world-class designers to create a distinct center for “Fashion and Innovation” beauty in this new exhibition space.

Business & Conference Provider TMall and Taobao Global Event According to data from the General Administration of Customs of China, the scale of cross-border e-commerce transactions in China for the whole year of 2017 was 4.7 trillion yuan, a year-on-year increase of 77.1%. Since 2016, with the further development of international e-commerce, cosmetics have become the largest category of imported goods. From the CBE data, in recent years, the international brands participating in the exhibition have grown rapidly. TMall and Taobao Global are planning to exhibit and host the relevant events in the Cross-border E-commerce Hall at CBE 2019. Business Meetings Asia – 100+ Asian importers such as Sogo Indonesia, Seibu Japan, MEDiCARE Vietnam, Ltd., SPA, Retailers from Singapore and China’s local top leading importers including agents of Taobao will be the buyers of the one-to-one matchmaking event. This event aims to provide all the overseas cosmetics brands who want to enter into China or Asian Market an efficient and targeted business platform.

SAVE THE DATE: China Beauty Expo 2019, 20-22 May 2019 More information about China’s beauty market and China Beauty Expo, please visit www.chinabeautyexpo.com or contact Ms. Olivia LIU, Olivia.liu@informa.com

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REPORT

BEAUTYSTREAMS reveals the latest beauty packaging trends These 13 packaging innovations are differentiating products and enhancing consumers’ lives, according to Beautystreams, the global beauty industry reference Beauty packaging is innovating faster than ever, in order to keep pace with rapidly evolving consumer lifestyles, and an ever-increasing list of needs and desires. “As trends spread quicker thanks to social media and modern communication, brands and contract manufacturers increasingly seek professional trend forecasting to be always a step ahead of their competitors, and aligned with consumer demands,” says Michael Nolte, Creative Director at Beautystreams, the only trend forecasting service exclusively dedicated to the beauty and packaging industries. Beautystreams helps marketing and product development teams to stay ahead through its color predictions, product forecasts, and consumer insights. With clients, including leading beauty brands, based across six continents, Beautystreams also translates its trend forecasts into industry categories such as skin care, makeup, nails, hair, and fragrance. The company also customizes projects to specific regions, in addition to working on highly customized client requests. “Our clients benefit from a network of hundreds of industry experts for very specific requests such as marketing strategies for specific regions, product adaptations per age groups, or consumer and product forecasts for the five to ten years to come, without having to hire and coordinate their teams internally,” says Nolte. Below, Beautystreams has identified leading packaging trends that are addressing consumers’ drive for convenience, ease, efficiency, saving time, and connection with the brands they use. NEXT-GENERATION APPLICATORS As consumers seek to recreate various looks they see and admire on YouTube, there is a renewed focus on tools, especially well-designed applicators that ease the process of flawless makeup application. M.A.C’s Rollerwheel Liquid Liner is like ‘training wheels for liquid lining’, with a spinning wheel applicator that picks up the optimal amount of product enabling consumers to draw fine or bold lines onto lids with ease.

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Yves Saint Laurent’s Tatouage Couture Liquid Matte Lip Stain includes a spatula-like applicator that offers the precision of a liner with the control of a brush. Bye Bye Brush by Omnicos lets users say ‘bye bye’ to eye brushes, with its eyeshadow applicator that dispenses with the need for brushes or fingers. Lottie London’s Stamp Liner adds instant body art by way of a liquid liner with an ultra-precision tip on one end, and cute stamps (think heart, moon, stars) on the other.

Plastic tube manufacturer UDN’s Lipstick Tube combines the intuitiveness of the ‘twist’ action when applying lipstick with the convenience of an attached applicator, with applicator options including sponge, lipstick-style tip, or rollerball.

NEW SCENT RITUALS As the fragrance market becomes ever more saturated, beauty brands are seeking new application rituals, formulations and fragrance gestures in order to differentiate themselves from the competitition, and lend excitement to the category. Chanel’s Chance Eau Tendre Delicate Fragrance Touchup is packaged in a compact similar to a cushion foundation, with a gel-like fragrance and soft silicone applicator.

The packaging of Cacharel’s Yes I Am resembles a classic red lipstick, with a lipstick-like spray cap that dispenses the fragrance. Jo Loves features a paintbrush applicator that contains a gel cologne formulation, enabling targeted fragrance application. Derek Lam’s travel-friendly 10 Crosby Parfum Sticks makes applying fragrance a sensorial act: the wax of the stick formulation is rubbed onto skin, giving the notes staying power. Aptar’s Skin Master pen is a penshaped applicator with a brush at the tip, and a gel fragrance formulation. Pinrose’s Twirl & Whirl Rollerball Trio is a twirling baton, complete with shimmering tassels. The baton caps are removed to reveal the rollerscents. Glossier's You Perfume Solid is an on-the-go balm that fits snuggly inside an egg.

PRECISION DISPENSING Consumers are seeking dispensing experiences that control dosing and preserve product formulations, without any leakage or waste. Beauty brands and packaging suppliers, in turn, are innovating pumps to deliver maximum efficiency and convenience. The plastic nozzle of Yonwoo's Drop Tube dispenses product in exact 0.055ml drops, with no drop of product left behind.


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HCT Packaging’s Dropper Pen features a travel-friendly distribution system, in contrast to traditional droppers that utilize a pipette. NEO Pac’s Stylo Tubes are designed to deliver a precise application of liquid or cream products, with a rotating ring around the cap that ensures correct dispensing. Virospack’s Autofill Dropper is push-button dropper with a bulb inside that has an automatic autofill system, suitable for higher viscosity cosmetics.

AIRLESS PACKAGING Consumers are leading increasingly nomadic lifestyles, and are gravitating towards airless packaging that dispenses with the need for preservatives in formulations. Airless systems also allow for sterile dermo-cosmetics, a growing sector that guarantees products remain sterile during use. Lumson’s Envers Airless features an actuator that is molded into the main body of the pack, shaping its entire design. The airless bottle is covered by the actuator, and there is a thin collapsible ‘pouch’ inside the bottle that helps preserve sensitive components. Neopac’s Amplify Airless Tube allows for easy, hygienic and controlled dosing with its Airless Tube. Cosmogen’s Cosmo + features an airless system and applicator. When activated by a single rotary pulse, the pump produces a vacuum effect that dispenses one dose of the formula.

100% BIODEGRADABLE Ecologically-minded packaging companies are developing solutions to the global problem of plastic waste by offering stylish and functional alternatives that bear the practical properties of plastic, while still being fully biodegradable.

Finnish company Sulapac produces fully biodegradable packaging made from wood sourced from sustainably-managed Nordic forests. Sulapac’s bottles and jars bear a barrier coating against water, oxygen and oil comparable to the barrier that plastic provides. Qosmedix’s biodegradable paperboard tubes are suitable for a variety of formulas including balms, deodorants, solid sunscreens and cosmetics. To advance the formula upward, the bottom of the tube is pushed up.

TWIST-ON CAPS & CLOSURES With itinerant lifestyles and an omnipresent desire for convenience, reliable closures take on greater importance as they protect product integrity, facilitate usage, and give consumers peace of mind. (Spillage is not a concern).

The patented rotary head system of NUXE’s skin care, featuring Cosmogen’s Squeeze ‘n Roll tube, distributes just the right amount of formula, and also prevents contamination. Lindal launched a flip-top cap, the FlipClassic, for its aerosol products, comprising an insert-less actuator with an integrated cap that is an alternative to more costly twist-lock actuators. Drunk Elephant’s C-Firma Serum features square twist-up packaging, and a turn-to-lock actuator that eliminates the need for an over-cap for on-the-go convenience. Virospack’s Magnetic Dropper is a bulb dropper with a magnetic sealing system. The magnetic closure system eliminates the screw-on gesture for pack opening and closing, and delivers a ‘perfect sealing feeling’. 2-IN-1 DUAL DISPENSING Dual dispensing technologies allow consumers to conveniently transport more than one formulation in a single unit, and combine formulations that they often use together. Such technologies also allows for customization of fragrance, color cosmetics and skin care products. As the demand for dual-dispensing technologies continues to grow, packaging functionality and ergonomics become nearly as important as the formulations themselves. Aptar’s Twinset is an airless packaging system that allows brands to combine two products in one unit, which is especially convenient when

different treatment steps are needed. Corpack’s Twinpack-Mini bottle is designed to dispense complimentary product combinations, such as shampoo and conditioner.

MULTI-PURPOSE PACKAGING Multi-tasking, multi-purpose packaging is ever more in demand, with a focus on products that can be useful to more than one part of the face or body. CYO’s Take the Threeway Shadow, Liner, & Mascara Trio lets consumers apply a complete eye makeup look without needing additional storage space. Yonwoo’s 2Way Applicator features a doefoot tip for lipstick, and a sponge attached at the other end to apply product to the face. Benefit’s Brow Contour Pro is a four-in-one contour pencil featuring two defining shades, and an arch highlighter that shapes brows with depth and dimension. The Masca Liner by Alkos features a combined mascara-eyeliner formulation, with a fine brush at the tip of the wand to draw precise lines without smudging, and carved mascara bristles below the tip. M.A.C Bold and Bad Mascaralash’s two-in-one design lets consumers create a lash look that’s customized to top and bottom lashes, without needing two separate mascara products. The smaller wand fits inside a chamber in the larger wand’s lid, and each delivers different mascara formulations. The thinner brush is used to apply mascara to the lower lashes, while the larger brush delivers a volume-boosting formulation to the upper lashes.

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REPORT

BIY (BLEND-IN-YOURSELF) With consumers desiring greater control over formulations tailored to their individual needs, beauty brands are increasingly offering packaging solutions that deliver options for formula customization, often at the click of a button. Aptar’s Neomix is a packaging system that combines a separate “booster” product within a formulation. One of the bottle’s compartments contains the base product, and another the booster. When the pump is engaged, the two elements are mixed together. The pump’s airless mechanism means that the two formulas are kept separate until used, and booster components can be swapped, depending on skin care needs. Yonwoo’s Dual Dish Jar is an airless jar with two compartments for moisturiser and foundation that are pumped separately into a central mixing dish, where they can be blended.

NEW DELIVERY SYSTEM New formats for dry formulas provide easy dispensing, delivering effortless and convenient application. The Cushion Blending Stick by Cosmax features the formulation inside one end of the package, and a cushion applicator in the other. A spring-like mechanism under the cushion ensures that it always stays in contact with the opposite side. The stick is suitable for foundation, concealer or blush. The pump dispenser of Quadpack’s Powder Spray is designed to handle a wide range of powders, and ensures even dosage.

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INNOVATIVE, SINGLE-USE PACKAGING One-time use packaging is more popular than ever, giving consumers the chance to sample products before investing in more expensive, full-size products, as well as assuring complete cleanliness and hygiene with every use. Heat-it-up packaging is the newest innovation, with self-heating technology contained within the packaging, and creating a chemical reaction that generates heat energy when activated. Contamination is avoided as the product is never in direct contact with the heating mechanism. Klocke of America’s Heat ‘n Dose System is powered by Exothermix, an on-demand formulation transformation system available in a single-serve sachet or thermoform (blister) package. Users activate the Exothermix heat engine to heat the prescribed dose of product, including liquids, creams, oils, gels and pads. Yoon Dermaline’s Marine Aqua Peeler swabs contain a sealed, oversized swab applicator which is discarded after use. The Oozoo’s Fresh Capsule Mask and Power Capsule Mask features a pill-shaped capsule that is ‘popped’ and dissolved into a sheet mask before use. The capsule contains actives and other skin-soothing ingredients. Korean Lassie’el’s Night Miracle Sleeping Mask contains a gel cream and a nutrient cream that are mixed just before application, underlining the freshness of the products.

CONNECTED PACKAGING Connected packaging bridges the gap between a physical product and the digital space, transforming packaging from functional item to a means by which brands can communicate with consumers, and vice versa. Consumers use their smartphones to bring packaging to life by way of QR codes, unlocking a wealth of brand information and features. Swiss skin care brand Valmont incorporates technology from Thin Film Electronics ASA and CSM Smartconnect on its packaging: when consumers tap Valmont products with their smartphone, they are connected to the brand’s landing page. Here, they can learn about products, ingredients, and buy them online. Leveraging MET (Microchip Embedded Technolog), Italian manufacturer Lumson embeds an invisible microchip in primary packaging. Using NFC (near-field communication), the technology communicates with users’ smartphones, delivering an array of information, including complementary products, company contacts, and details about the manufacturing process. Lumson’s technology also acts as an anti-counterfeiting tool.

ON-THE-GO PALETTES Beauty brands are simplifying make-up application for on-the-go consumers, offering portable, stackable compacts that are contained in one package. Milimage’s Beauty Pouches combine multiple products within one easily transportable unit. Refillable compacts can be stacked one on top of the other, and are attached magnetically. Clarins’ Pore Perfecting Mattifying Kit is a two-in-one product, enabling easy touch ups, complete with refillable blotting papers. Asquan’s Sleek Kit unfolds to reveal two eye-shadow palettes that can be re-inserted back to their compact shape. Toly’s Ultraslim is a line of compacts that contain large and small pans of blush, eyeshadow or powder, and designed to slip into an evening clutch bag.

ABOUT THE COMPANY BEAUTYSTREAMS is the global beauty industry reference. It is a one-stop information source for strategy, marketing, and product development teams worldwide. We provide color forecasts, product innovation concepts, consumer insights, brand strategy, short and long range trends, trade show reporting, and industry news.


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COMPANY

TEAOLOGY skincare based on the world’s most popular beverage

The young Italian brand is the first in the world to use tea infusion and not tea extract as the base of every product

100% tea infusion, 0% water: for the first time ever, Teaology offers products infused with the most powerful active and antioxidant ingredients from the tea plant, combining effective tea ingredients with the most comforting textures and aromatic fragrances. Founded by Italian husband and wife team Paolo Bevegni and Cecilia Garofano, who between them have a long experience in the international beauty industry, Teaology was launched at the end of 2015 and is currently distributed on 18 international markets due to an astonishing response and overwhelming demand. Teaology’s philosophy can be summarized in three words: Clean beauty, with risk free cosmetics which use safe and high quality ingredients of natural origin to ensure the excellent standards of efficacy and the sensory features which make the products a pleasure to use; Safety, with all products dermatologically tested for perfect tolerability, even by the most sensitive and delicate skins, and Sustainability and Respect, as the products are ideal for vegans and without superfluous packaging to reduce paper and CO2 emissions.

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Tea Infusion Skincare is a unique patented method, which extracts active ingredients from different types of tea through a process of heat infusion by using whole leaves of the Camellia sinensis plant, an evergreen tree that grown on plains and at high altitudes, in hot and humid climates. This infusion is a concentrate of antioxidant polyphenols, a real elixir of youth for the skin. Teaology replaces Tea Infusion for water in all its formulations to boost protective, regenerating and anti-ageing actions in its products.


COMPANY

The latest clinical study certified that the Tea Infusion used by Teaology has the same antioxidant power as freshly-brewed tea. All tea comes from the same plant, Camellia sinensis but they are divided into three categories, namely fermented teas (black tea), semi-fermented (blue tea) and unfermented (white and green teas). There is also a very special tea, Matcha Tea, from Japan which is highly precious and grown in the shade under special cloths to preserve its properties and then crushed to a fine powder. The Teaology range comprises 28 products - 20 for the face and 8 for the body, with the tea types chosen according to the desired result: white tea is used in anti-ageing creams, while black tea is used when the skin’s energy and vitality are targeted. The most innovative products are Green Tea Detox Face Scrub, an exfoliating butter cream with a melting texture which has a purifying and detoxing effect, leaving skin amazingly smooth and bright; Matcha Tea Ultra Firming Face Cream, an intense green cream in which Match a Tea is combined with a plant-based complex of 9 different ingredients chosen for their toning, firming and moisturizing efficiency and White Tea Miracle Drops, a concentrate of EGCG, the elements intensively present in white tea, a miracle fluid in drops to be used as an anti-ageing booster.

The face line is made up of products for cleansing to achieve deeply and cleansed skin: Rose Tea Moistuirising Cleansing Milk-Oil, Rose Tea Toning Essence and Rose Tea Micellar Cleansing Water. Tea’s great powers are also used to great benefit for enhanced Moisturization, with Rose Tea Hyaluronic Moisturising Cream, White Tea Miracle Anti-Age Cream, White tea Miracle Eye Cream, White Tea Face Perfecting Finisher and Ginger Tea Energizing Aqua-Cream. Teaology also has its own interpretation of the “mask-mania” which is currently sweeping the world: masks made of ultra-soft fabric to caress the skin and flood it with over 95% of genuine antioxidant tea fortified with functional active ingredients: Black Tea Miracle Face and Neck Mask, Blue Tea Miracle

Face and Neck Mask, Green Tea Miracle Face and Neck Mask, White Tea Miracle Face and Neck Mask and Matcha Tea Miracle Face and neck Mask, as well as White Tea Miracle Eye Mask and Imperial Tea Miracle Face Mask. For the Body, Teaology offers creams, butters, scrubs, slimming concentrates and salts for flawless body all year round. The most innovative products are Green Tea Reshaping Body Scrub and Jasmine Tea Firming Body Cream. For detoxing and purifying, Teaology offers Green Tea Detoxing and reshaping Salt Bath and Black Rose tea Micellar Shower Gel. Lastly, to nourish, firm and slim, the brand proposes Black Tea Anti-Cellulite Slimming Concentrate, Black Rose Tea All Over Eau de Toilette and Floral Tea hand and Nail Cream. The packaging uses the conventional colour code for tea, black, with the outer boxes designed to instantly convey brand values and the efficacy of the different types of tea, using a coloured sticker to identify the tea used in the formula. The distribution channel includes Selective Perfumeries and Department Stores, as well as an increasing online presence on prestigious pure player websites.

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INTERVIEW

BELLAOGGI the Italian touch of make up INTERVIEW WITH PAOLO MICERA, BUSINESS & MARKETING CONSULTANT

The make-up brand BELLAOGGI is at the centre of a real cosmetic revolution. The sell-out records results with a triple growth not only for the conquest of new spaces in Italy and abroad (it is present in 26 countries) but thanks to a constant growth of its consumer base. It is a recipe made up of research and communication, which starts off from the fundamentals of make-up: from the quality of the product. EXPORT MAGAZINE: Bellaoggi: an accessible make-up brand for everyone? Paolo Micera: It would be reductive to define BELLAOGGI only as an accessible brand of make-up. Consumers all over the world no longer measure their style according to what they spend. They experience price offers with sudden ups & downs, sales, promotions and outlets.

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EM: What makes BELLAOGGI international but Italian? PM: BELLAOGGI is the Italian Touch of Make-up. Italy has always been at the centre of development and reflection on fashion and makeup trends but has to compete with international talents that often are able to dare more. This is why so many Millennials wear niche or web make-up. What can we tell about Italy? Its elegance and its charm, definitely. But there is more. If California has its Silicon Valley, Italy has its Make-Up Valley: 60%

of the lipsticks, blushes and eye shadows sold in the world are Made in Italy. In addition to this Italian know-how there is the genetic touch of sensitivity to aesthetics. At BELLAOGGI research takes place in partnership with these gurus of the Italian industry. We run with them the last mile of research of their formulas to make them even more exciting, to create trends, collections and new performances. This is how a product that is optimized in the costs and perfect in the result comes into being.

The fast fashion and ready-to-wear fashion attitude (Zara or H&M) have conquered make-up as well. Just like a dress, make-up is an object that is worn, experienced and put to the test daily: it needs research, technique and resistance. EM: What is changing in consumers? PM: Consumers today are able to choose, evaluate and, above all, they are informed. This is what has really changed their expectations: it is unlikely that they stop at models, testimonials or the packaging. A woman’s daily beauty is not measured in comparisons. For too long the Big Brands have stressed concepts of communication and media, forgetting the centrality of makeup: the product. This is what the fans of BELLAOGGI choose. The product before anything else. With a new, fresh and renewed communication.

New LIPS-UP plumping gloss. A gel-based formula, rich in sesame seeds and hyaluronic acid microspheres. Lips are incredibly fresh, enlightened and plumped up to 6hrs from the first application.

C.S.


INTERVIEW

GREAT OPPORTUNITIES FOR BELLAOGGI ON A GLOBAL MARKET

Interview with Adriano Ripari, Export Manager

EXPORT MAGAZINE: What are the opportunities for an Italian brand on the global market? ADRIANO RIPARI: Never as now have Italian brands enjoyed such exceptional favour by customers all over the world, they want to buy Italian because they are aware of the force and reliability of a product that has in it all the manufacturing skill, the good taste and the expertise of

the Italian cosmetics sector. EM: How does Bellaoggi fit into this context? AR: Our brand fully interprets this trend, going through a stimulating phase of development both from the point of view of the product, through the use of increasingly high performing textures – and from that of the store, with a particular attention to the display stands.

We have designed new solutions which allow the store to more easily manage the display material and inserting the new products, which is then translated into greater rotation of the products and greater profits. EM: How is the expansion of the brand at global level continuing? AR: Bellaoggi is now considered one of the most interesting emerging brands at international level and the response of distributors, at the international shows we have attended as exhibitors has been surprising. In 2018 alone, we opened in 6 new countries (Israel, Saudi Arabia, Indonesia, Morocco, Benelux, Lithuania) and others are due to open: considering the general situation from the geopolitical point of view, this is to be considered an extraordinary result. In addition, we have increased our presence in qualified chains, such as Auchan in Spain.

EM: What is your next objective? AR: As well as, naturally, consolidating our current network, we have many requests for collaboration from different countries. Unfortunately, the new protectionist trend that concerns some countries prolongs, with increasingly complex registrations, the times for opening but from the regulatory point of view we are really very updated and efficient. Furthermore, of enormous importance from the strategic point of view, we are in an advanced stage of forming qualified and important alliances both in China and India, which by themselves in the coming years will represent a large part of the global market. We are already ready. C.S.

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USEFUL ADDRESSES Blumarine - Dsquared2 Pomellato - Trussardi

ITF s.p.a. - Angelini Group Strada Provinciale, 25 - Km. 2,8 - I-26900 Lodi tel. +39-0371/4001 - fax +39-0371/400227

Jesus del Pozo Roberto Verino Starck - Tous

Boutique

Garden Cosmetics Via Pigafetta, 20 - I-28100 Novara

Perfumes y Diseño España, S.L. Isla del Hierro, 5 E-28709 San Sebastian de los Reyes (Madrid) tel. +34-91/6588843 - fax +34-91/6588849

Kiko

Cale’

CALE’ s.r.l. Via S.Maria Podone, 5 - I-20123 Milano tel. +39/02-76002494 - fax +39/02-76009407 ww.cale.it - s.levi@cale.it

Milano Cosmetics s.r.l. Via Depretis, 6/9 - I-24122 Bergamo tel. +39-035/3693611 - fax +39-035/3693612

La Closerie des Parfums

Groupe Panther – La Closerie des Parfums ZI Gradignan Bersol - 11 Avenue de la Madeleine F-33173 Gradignan cedex (France) tel +33/05.56.75.79.04 - fax +33/05.56.75.53.36 valerie.madrid@lacloseriedesparfums.com www.lacloseriedesparfums.com

Layla

Layla Cosmetics s.r.l. Via dei Pestagalli, 21 - I-20138 Milano tel. +39-02/5062052 - fax +39-02/5061160

L’Erbolario

L’Erbolario s.p.a. V.le Milano, 74 - I-26900 Lodi tel. +39/0371-4911 - fax +39/0371-491411 www.erbolario.com

Locherber

Cosval s.p.a. V.le delle Industrie 10/5 - I-20020 Arese (MI) tel. +39/02 935 80 479 - fax +39/02 935 81 022 www.cosvality.com

Lubin

Lubin 3, rue du Roule - F-75001 Paris tel: +33-1/40677009 - fax +33-1/45021316

M: PLUS Cosmetics

M: PLUS Cosmetics I-20065 Inzago (MI) Via Unità d’Italia, 9/11 www.mascaraplus.com - info@mascaraplus.com

Acqua di Portofino Blue Pollack - Esse - Evody Fabi - Hugh Parsons Panama - Pineider - Riva

Profumitalia s.r.l. Via A. Costa, 2 - I-20131 Milano tel. +39/02-45375660 info@profumitalia.net - www.profumitalia.it

Acampora Profumi

Bruno Acampora Profumi B.A.P. s.r.l. Via G. Filangieri, 72 - I-80121 Napoli tel. +39/081.401701 - fax +39/081.414162 www.brunoacampora.com

Air-Val Beverly Hills Fragrances

Air-Val Int. s.a. C/Miguel Servet, 27 E-08850 Gava (Barcelona) tel. +34-93/6355335 - fax +34-93/6629806

Caron

Alysonoldoini Parfums

Luciano Oldoini s.r.l. V.le Geno 10 - I-22100 Como Show-room: Via Montenapoleone, 21 I-20122 Milano www.alysonoldoiniparfums.com

Parfums Caron 99, rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré - F-75008 Paris tel. +331/34235450 - fax +331/34235451 nguil@alesgroupe.com - www.parfumscaron.com

Carrera

Almon s.r.l. Viale Sondrio, 7 - 20124 Milano - Italy tel. +39 02 84086374 - fax +39 02 84086354 e-mail: info@almon.it - www.almon.it

Ancorotti Cosmetics

Ancorotti Cosmetics s.r.l. Via del Commercio, 1 - I-26013 Crema (CR) tel. +39/0373-876811.21 - fax +39/0373-876811

Charriol - Morgan Salvador Dalì

Antiqua Firenze - IO•KO

Enzo Galardi Via Ilio Barontini 22 - I-50018 Scandicci (FI) elisa.atelierbois.gmail.com - www.bois1920.it

Cofinluxe 6, Rue Anatole de la Forge F-75017 Paris tel. +33-1/55377172 - fax +33-1/46229827

Collistar

Ars Mirabile - CBN I-Care - Longevity M Masterpiece

S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. Via della Liberazione, 56 I-20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) tel. +39-02/98280925 - fax +39-02/98280975

Collistar s.p.a. Via Pirelli, 19 - I-20124 Milano tel. +39-02/677503 - fax +39-02/6775454

Confalonieri Matite

Fragrance division: Arrogance - GMV Valentina by Guido Crepax Cosmetic division: Pikenz

The First s.p.a. Via Fieno, 8 I-20123 Milano tel. +39-02/661381 fax +39-02/66138519

Confalonieri Matite s.r.l. I-23020 Area Industriale - Gordona (SO) tel. +39/0343-42011 - fax +39/0343 42000 www.confaloniericosmetica.com confaloniericosmetica.com

Costume National

Beauty San s.p.a. Via Rimini, 37 - I-59100 Prato tel. +39-0574/43891 - fax +39-0574/438940 www.beautysan.net

Astra

Giufra S.r.l. Via Veneto, 152 - I-06059 Todi (PG) tel. +39-075.8987455 - fax +39-075.8987691

Coverderm Covermark

Art Cosmetics

Art Cosmetics s.r.l. I-24050 Mozzanica (BG) Via E. Mattei, 17/c tel. +39/0363-032011 www.artcosmetics.it - info@artcosmetics.it

Farmeco Head Office: 11 Ag. Glykerios Str. - GR-11147 Athens, Greece tel. +30-20/2131701 - fax +30-20/2136036 Branch Office: Strada 6 Palazzo P1 Milano Fiori - I-20089 Rozzano (MI) tel. +39-02/89200150/167 - fax +39-02/89200371

Artdeco

Artdeco Cosmetic Group Gaussstrasse 13 - D-85757 Karlsfeld tel. +49/8131-390100 - fax +49/8131 390129

diego dalla palma diego dalla palma RVB Lab

Aubade - Montana

Parfums Montana - Empire of Scents 4, Place Wagram - F-75017 Paris tel +33-1/42650072 - fax +33-1/42650074

Alain Delon - Jaguar - Lalique Nikki Beach - Parfums Grès Ultrasun

Art & Fragrance SA Bühlstrasse 1 - CH-8125 Zollikerberg - Switzerland Direct +41-43/4994532 - Phone +41-43/4994500 fax +41-43/4994502 www.art-fragrance.com

Alessandro Dell’Acqua - Dsquared Missoni - Moschino - John Richmond Joseph Abboud - Naj Oleari Versace

Euroitalia s.r.l. Via G. Galilei, 1 I-20040 Cavenago Brianza (MI) tel. +39-02/95916.1 - fax +39-02/95916500

Amarena Bella Oggi

Eurostyle s.p.a. I-80035 Nola - Interporto di Nola, Lotto D Blocco 4, Mod. 407/408 tel. +39-081/5108427 - fax +39-081/3158162 www.amarenamakeup.com - info@amarenamakeup.com

Aquolina - Baldinini Paglieri 1876 Pink Sugar

Selectiva s.p.a. S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 - fax +39-0131/6186663

Armand Basi - Angel Schlesser Custo - Joaquín Cortés Mandarina Duck - Yekipé

IDESA-Angelini Group Via Augusta, 59-9 - E-08006 Barcelona tel. +34-93/2920891 - fax +34-93/2176881

Atkinsons - Benetton Ferrari - Iceberg John Galliano Sergio Tacchini

Perfume Holding - Morris s.p.a. Via Maretto, 13 I-43100 Parma - Roncopascolo tel. +39-0521/662111 - fax +39-0521/662268

Axis - Hoops - Elanzia Esprit de Versailles - Mercedes Monaco - Yujin

INCC Group 85, avenue de Saint Cloud F-78000 Versailles tel. +33/1-39670671 - fax + 33/1-39670672 www.inccgroup-parfums-com

Balmain Parfums - Celine - Lanvin Interparfums Paul Smith - Roxi - Van Cleef & Arpels 4 Rond Point del Champs Elysées Jimmy Choo - Mont Blanc F-75008 Paris tel. +33/1-53770000 - fax +33/1-53763626 Basile - Compagnia delle Indie Egon von Fürstenberg Lancetti - Lotto Nazareno Gabrielli Sweet Years

Weruska & Joël s.r.l. Corso Moncalieri, 381 I-10133 Torino tel. +39-011/6611066 fax +39-011/6611348

B.Kolor

B.Kolormakeup & Skincare s.p.a. Via Canonica, 79/A Loc. Geromina – I-24047 Treviglio (BG) tel. +39/0363-590011 – fax +39/0363-590212 info@bkolormakeup.com www.bkolormakeup-skincare.com

The Merchant of Venice - Police Mavive S.p.A. Replay - Zippo - Manila Grace Via Altinia, 298/B Blauer USA - Pino Silvestre I-30173 Venezia (Dese) Monotheme - I Profumi di d’Annunzio tel. +39-041/5417771 - fax +39-041/5417798 MI-RE

MI-in Paris 102, rue des Poissonniers - F-75018 Paris tel. +33/6-65299995 www.mirecosmetics.com - etremosa@mi-in.kr

Cosmetica s.r.l. Via S. Carlo 28 I-40023 Castel Guelfo (BO) tel. +39-0542/670911 - fax +39-0542/670911

Molinard

Parfums Molinard 60, boulevard Victor Hugo - F-06130 Grasse tel. +334-92423322 - fax +334-89123068 export@molinard.com - www.molinard.com

Enrico Coveri Mariella Arduini

Gold I-20131 Milano - Via Filippo Lippi 10 tel. +39/02_795862 www.goldmilano.it - info@goldmilano.it

Nesti Dante

Nesti Dante s.r.l. Via della Molina, 39 - I-50010 S.Donnino (FI) tel. +39-055/8739401/2 - fax 39-055/8739768

Exclusive division: Braccialini - Byblos - Gandini - Genny Luciano Soprani - Transvital Prestige division: Australian - Bionsen La Gazzetta dello Sport - Lola Looney Tunes - Renato Balestra Rockford

Eurocosmesi Via Gobetti, 4 I-40050 Funo di Argelato (BO) tel. +39-051/6649238 fax +39-051/6649248

Nouba

Nouba s.r.l. I-24061 Albano S. Alessandro (BG) Via Santa Barbara, 6 tel. +39/035-581996 – fax +39/035-4521099 www.nouba.it – e-mail: info@nouba.it

Paglieri

Franck Olivier

Sodip 21, Boulevard Montmartre- F-75002 Paris - France tel. +33-1/40262020 - fax +33-1/42210888

Paglieri s.p.a. S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 - I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 - fax +39-0131/6186663

Parfums Pergolèse Paris

Fedua

Fedua Cosmetics Via Moretto 27 - I-25122 Brescia tel. +39/030-2590833 commerciale@fedua.com - www.fedua.com

Parfums Pergolèse Paris 59, Rue De Miromesnil - F-75008 Paris Tel. +33-(0)1/53581402 or 1435 www.parfums-pergolese-paris.com

Payot

Filorga

Laboratoires Filorga 2-4 rue de Lisbonne - F-75008 Paris tel. +33 1 42939400 - fax + 331 42937965 guillaume.ledeme@filorga.com - www.filorga.com

Laboratoires Dr. N G Payot 10, boulevard du Parc - F-92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine tel. +331/55625454 contact@payot.fr - www.payot.com

Giorgio Jäneke

Giorgio Jäneke s.r.l. I-20050 Veduggio (MI) tel. +39-0362/911010 a.r. - fax +39-0362/911100

Pupa Miss Milkie

Micy’s Company s.p.a. Via De Gasperi, 22 - I-23880 Casatenovo (LC) tel. +39-039/92341 - fax +39-039/89205859

Gli Elementi

GLI ELEMENTI s.r.l. Via Domenico Cimarosa, 3 I-20144 Milano www.glielementi.it - d.brichetti@italian-philosophy.it

Rancé

Rancé & C. s.r.l. Via Lombardini, 10 - I-20143 Milano tel. +39-02/58100855 - fax +39-02/89401058

Sandalia

Guudcure Pollution Free

HSA GROUP S.p.A. Via Ugo Foscolo, 27 - I-21050 Bisuschio (VA) tel. +39/0332-476554 - fax +39/03332-850307 hsa@hsacosmetics.com - www.hsacosmetics.com

Officina Profumeria Sarda s.r.l. I-07041 Alghero (SS) tel. + 39/340 3872516 www.acquadisardegna.it infor@officinaprofumeriasarda

Henry Cotton’s Ducati- Mcs -Monello Mascalzone NY League

Diamond International s.r.l. Via Foce Cesano,4/9 - I-60019 Senigalla (AN) tel. +39/071-6610226 - fax +39/071-6611104 info@diamondint.it - www.difragrances.com

Salvatore Ferragamo Ungaro

Salvatore Ferragamo Italia s.p.a. Via dei Tornabuoni, 2 - I-20123 Firenze tel. +39-055/33601 - fax +39-055/3360734

Herbal Essentials

Harmony Cosmetics DMCC Office 1906, Reef Tower, Cluster O, Jumeirah Lakes Tower, Dubai, U.A.E. Tel. +971/4-4401277 – Fa + 971/4-4392243 www.herbal-essentials.com -e-mail: aly@harmony.ae

Simone Cosac

Simone Cosac Profumi s.r.l. Via Villamagna, 56/58 - I-50012 Bagno a Ripoli (FI) tel. + 39/055-631251 - fax +39/055-631262

Teatro Fragranze Uniche

Intertrade Europe

HI Intertrade Europe Via Portogallo,11/125 - I-35127 Padova tel. +39-049/7625241 - fax +39-049/762 5177

Teatro Fragranze Uniche s.r.l. Via Pietro Nenni, 26/28 - I-50019 Sesto Fiorentino (FI) tel. +39/055.4212240 www.teatrofragranzeuniche.it info@teatrofragranzeuniche.it

Jean Couturier Léonard

VAG & Distribution 6, rue Pasquier - F-75008 Paris tel. +33-1/58183970 - fax +33-1/40060210

Valobra

Valobra Via G. Carducci, 5/7 - I-16121 Genova tel. +39-010/581179 - fax +39-010/5702191

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