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N. 8 / 2017 - bimestrale - mte Edizioni s.r.l. - Via r. gessi 28 - 20146 Milano - Tariffa R.O.C.: Poste Italiane s.p.a. Spedizione in abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB - Modena - €7 In caso di mancato recapito inviare al CPO MODENA per la restituzione previo pagamento resi. - CONTIENE SUPPLEMENTO






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Advertisers’ index

On the cover: Diego dalla palma, a brand expressing the Italian culture in the world N. 8 ANNO XXXVII OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 2017 OTTOBRE / NOVEMBRE 2017 BIMONTHLY DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano n. 85 del 16/02/1991 Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena Printing: Formagrafica s.r.l. - Carpi (MO) Art Director Teresa Tibaldi Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl Via Romolo Gessi, 28 - 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/ Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: Managing Editor Giuseppe Tirabasso Editor-in-chief Claudia Stagno E-mail: Consultants Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom - Roberto Cimarosa Luca Clara - Valerie Kaminov - Rebecca Lazzari Joan Rundo - Simona Verga - Catherine Wrenn P.R. Promotion Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni USA: DT Publisher's Representative, Don Timmel, Los Angeles 3705 Greenfield Ave. #4, CA 90034-7030 Los Angeles, Tel. +1/310-838-3484 Email:


28-29 34-35 42-43 72-73 78 82-83 88/90

COMPANY Transvital Rouge Baiser Paris Elite Divage Layla Cosmetics HSA Almon

80 92-94

EVENTS Cosme-Tokyo CBE

4-5 6/10 14-15 24-25 38-40 48-49 62-63 86-87 100-101

12 16 18 20 22 30 32 46 50 52 68 74 76


INTERVIEW Filorga: G. Ledemé Diego dalla palma: M. Caivano Payot: M.L. Simonin-Braun MI-RE: E. Armenta-Tremosa - M. Kim Intertrade: C. Fadelli Sentéales: F. Benet Gli Elementi: D. Brichetti Mascara Plus Cosmetics: D. Chant, G. Marchetti, M. De Frenza Bellaoggi: A. Ripari LAUNCH Marc Jacobs Artdeco Masterpiece Ars Mirabile Seksy Fragrances Byblos Ducati Naj Oleari Lotto Compagnia delle Indie Woman’s Secret Arrogance GianMarcoVenturi REPORT INDIA: V. Kaminov

Air-Val Arrogance Ars Mirabile Astra Beauty Eurasia Bellaoggi Byblos Carrera CBE Cosme-Tokyo Cosmobeauté Cosmoprof Asia Cosmoprof Bologna Cosmetech Deborah Diego dalla palma Divage Elite Eslablondexx Skin Farmeco Filorga Giorgio Janeke GianMarcoVenturi Gli Elementi Intercharm Korea Intercharm Moscow Layla Cosmetics Lotto Make-up in … Mane Masterpiece MI-RE Payot Pollution Free Prestizine Sentéales The Scent Transvital Women’s Secret

67 75 21 53-55-56/59 54 104-III 31 89 91 102 70 26 17 95 Insert – IV Cover-7-11 71 41 44-45 36-37 3 Insert 77 61 84-85 66 79-81 51 60 33 19 23 13 II-1 64-65 47 Insert 27 69



filorga exceptionally positive results Interview with Guillaume Ledemé, Vice President International Business

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Can you tell us about the evolution of your brand at global level? GUILLAUME Ledemé: In 2016, Filorga had a growth of 40% in the world, after +52% in 2015; internationally in 2016 we have grown by +45%. In 2017, at the end of August, we recorded +69% ytd and, internationally +78%. This is indeed an outstanding growth. EM: How do you comment these extraordinary results? GL: The International activity is constantly progressing on the different markets. In Europe, our branches are continuing to progress very well, as for example in Italy, Spain and Portugal, which opened in September 2016. We have retailers that work very well; in France, the Mother Country of Filorga, the growth is


still exceptionally outstanding. After Marionnaud we successfully opened in Nocibé; we have also just opened in Sephora in Poland, Russia and Spain. We have the start of our joint venture in China with incredible performances, with an online and an offline model. EM: What is your presence in the duty free channel like? GL: We are getting off to a good start in duty free, with a great potential ahead of us. In France we are in the two Paris airports and in Nice and in the coming months we will be opening in other major cities in Europe. As far as inflight retail is concerned, we are on Air France with two key products, Time Filler and Optim-eyes; we are on Luxair and Air Caraibes, and we will be on Alitalia and Royal Air Maroc in October. In China, we have been on the four main airlines since last April.

The figures on Chinese passengers are incredible: about 40 million passengers travel in a year, mainly to Europe, the united States and in Asia. We offer ‘Meso Mask’, ‘Optim-Eyes’ ‘Hydrayal’ and soon, a fourth product. In Hong Kong we are present in three DFS points of sale, an operation followed by our Chinese joint venture. The results have been excellent and from the start we were in the 5 top sellers. For Filorga, inflight sales are beginning to soar and we have already seen interest by Aeroflot and Korean Airlines. EM: Is the fact that in some countries you are present with branches and in other countries you operate through distributors a good mixture? GL: Our branches all perform well; I am referring to France, Belgium, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Poland, USA, Dubai, Hong Kong and China. The distributors we work with also reach excellent results. It is important to have a solid international structure, and which shows flexibility according to the different opportunities. In Canada we work through an exclusive agent, who interfaces with the retailers and with the various players of local distribution.

In Canada for example, we have entered a chain with no less than 450 points of sale. In the UK we are developing fairly quickly with teleshopping with QVC; in the United States we have been on HSN since February. Going back to our distributors, we are very satisfied, they work very well with the brand and the results they obtain are getting better and better. I can mention Scandinavia, Mexico, Russia, the Middle east and, more recently Iran. EM: What are the decisive factors that make Filorga accessible to so many markets? GL: What is remarkable with Filorga, is that it is found on different markets and on all the continents, in different channels, with people of different cultures, and with the same success everywhere! Our positioning is original and different, we have a brand which has an ethic, a medical soul, a very attractive and gratifying presentation for the women who buy it. It is a selective brand which is performing exceptionally well in perfumeries, chemists’, duty free, digital and e-commerce, such as in China for example.


Skin Absolute and Time Filler, which has been sensationally and spontaneously successful everywhere. It is a range of three products which cover a price absent to date in our range, touching a new target of consumers. In addition, for the first time for Filorga, a range of sun care, with three products which have been particularly successful both in chemists’ and in perfumeries. EM: What are the main strong points of the brand? GL: It offers products that work, based on exceptional formulas, which guarantee rapid results, and consequently our rate of loyalty is very high. The price positioning is excellent for the high value that is guaranteed, which makes our products accessible to most women. The brand identification is strong, characterized by clearly identifiable black and white codes; the geography

of the range is simple and there are no slow movers, with a profitability per linear metre which is probably one of the strongest on the market. This is why, with some retailers, we are working on three shelves, to reach five. EM: Which are the new launches of this year? GL: We have launched the NCTF Reverse range with an intermediate price positioning between

EM: Are all the factors mentioned so far and which help the recognition of the brand helping develop the duty free channel, with particular reference to Paris airports? GL: We have been favoured by two aspects, the first of which I mentioned earlier about the simple and direct approach of the brand, which makes it easy to purchase even for duty free clients; the second aspect concerns the massive advertising investments made, for example in France, with TV, radio, outdoor and press

campaigns, public relations, social networks etc... As the first duty free purchasers of the Paris airports are French travellers going abroad, followed by Chinese, Russian, Italian etc., it is clear that duty free sales, which we do through our partner Aelia, give highly satisfactory numbers. EM: Everything is going well at Filorga‌ GL: Touch wood, everything has gone well so far, we have worked very hard with the whole team and the markets opened so far are progressing from one year to the next; clearly, there is still a lot to be done and it is a great daily challenge. EM: Can you give us a small scoop for the Cannes show? GL: Of course, we will be launching the first oil serum by Filorga in the Skin Absolute range. It will be an interesting launch because we will be presenting to our consumers all over the world an oil for skincare with a very particular texture.




diegodynamism dallaandpalma creativity to spread

the culture of Italian art in the world Interview with MICOL CAIVANO, CEO of DIEGO DALLA PALMA

EXPORT MAGAZINE: diego dalla palma is a brand with roots that are closely linked to Italian culture in the world. What are the values that the brand succeeds in transferring abroad? MICOL CAIVANO: The Italianness of the brand can be felt in every product, in every image and in every place, from the long-established makeup studio in the heart of the Brera district in Milan: an intimate and sophisticated venue where Italian beauty is an art.


We export not only products but we spread the culture of the Italian art of make-up: glamour, essentiality, elegance and design, minimalism and creativity out of the box. Colours, formulas and textures are all made in Italy. Our make-up artists are artists of make-up who spread the diego dalla palma culture in the world: led by Gianluca Oddi, the international beauty ambassador of the brand, they show our clients and distributors not only

how to use the product and its peculiarities, but teach them to spread art and beauty through using the product. We are certain that abroad the brand is appreciated for the quality of the products and also for the image that has always distinguished our communication: the paradox is in our DNA, the essentiality of black and white, the explosion of colours, the irony of our images, the eye-catching phrases that attract the consumer, but above all the new concept of beauty of which the brand is a representative: the diego woman is imperfect, like all women in the world and brings out her imperfections by making them her strong point. EM: In addition to make-up, what other areas diego dalla palma focuses on? MC: diego dalla palma is a company that operates all-round in the world of beauty.

Make-up has always been the heart of the brand’s business, but in the past few years it has opened up new product categories. In 2010 we entered the hair sector with a line which is giving us great satisfaction; the turning-point came in 2015 when we decided to open up a path in the world of skincare, an area where we have extensive expertise. The line came into being with a total of about fifteen references, in two years we have doubled them riding the wave of the success of our formulations appreciated by consumers who have found in our products invaluable allies for their skincare and an answer to all their requirements. Attention to the market and to trends has allowed us to develop and launch a new concept of professional tools: in coming months we will be distributing in the different points of sale 10 professional brushes.



They are not only tools, but real design objects, with an innovative shape, practical to use, which allow to obtainin every desired style. This launch is very strategic for us, we are hoping it opens up a way to new channels and professional areas. diego dalla palma is the brand which brings together the three areas of cosmetics, to be close to women in all their beauty.

EM: What are the new products you are presenting at the Tax Free World Exhibition in Cannes? MC: There are various new products because diego dalla palma is a company which is characterized by dynamism and the new ideas which are continuously seeing the light of day. An explosion of energy is that represented by

the diego dalla palma paddle brush


the new high-end product which will be distributed in Italy and abroad in coming months: an exclusive product which merges the main trends which are found today in the world of skincare: quality and naturalness of the product, luxury, oils and gold. Gold Infusion is a potion of youthfulness, a serum certified 100% natural by one of the main certifying bodies of natural cosmetics: Ecocert. It contains 30 precious oils and a very delicate fragrance‌ but its greatest peculiarity is the presence of pure gold leaf. This is for us a revolutionary product, at the head of a new segment which we are certain will be appreciated by women all over the world. We believe that the trend of “sustainable luxuryâ€?, from the United States, very famous on the web, very much on trend abroad but not very much yet in Italy, will be the future of perfumery, par excellence the place where glamour, preciousness, luxury and sophisticated packaging reign and where the trend for the natural has not yet been expressed. In addition, we will be presenting the new spring summer 2018 collection, characterized by professional and innovative products in the pastel shades of pink with hologram contaminations. A few anticipations: pink is the star colour and will appear in products for the lips like the three

stylo lipsticks, the concept of the hologram, on the other hand, will feature in the new eye gloss. Two worlds, the hologram and the unicorn which merge giving rise to products of excellence and very much on trend. EM: What are your main channels of distribution, for the various lines? MC: diego dalla palma today is distributed in Italy in the selective channel with positive and double digit results, going against the trend of what is happening in the market. The export market has great potential and the brand has always had positive responses whenever it is presented to potential distributors or reatail chains. The duty free sector has also shown interest in the brand and in recent months has been giving us great satisfaction in terms of turnover and visibility. From Europe to the Middle East, from South America to the Far East, from department stores to makeup studios and the international chains and duty free, the brand is distributed and appreciated for its sales potential and fully represents its place of origin: Italy. diego dalla palma is so highly appreciated because it offers a complete but compact professional line that can meet the needs of women from different countries.


We are present with professional products such as the contouring palette and personalized kits on other airlines such as Cathay Pacific, Iberia, Blue Panorama, Czech Airlines, Luxair, Eva Air and there are many negotiations currently under way. Our objective is to continue distributing the brand so that more and more people can appreciate its quality. We are only at the start of a long journey which we hope will continue to give us the great satisfactions we have had in recent years.

EM: Your communication has always been very high impact. What do you principally want to convey to consumers, as well as the culture of a refined and trendy make-up? MC: Yes, the communication of diego dalla palma is unique and always succeeds in hitting the nail on the head. The campaigns never put themselves on a pedestal, they speak the same language as women. They have all the glamour of someone who never takes themselves too seriously because they don’t want to and don’t need to.

the gold infusion – youth potion

EM: You have been present in the duty free and inflight channels for a few years now: is this channel strategically, as well as commercially, important for your company? MC: Yes, the duty free and in-flight sector is relatively new for us and this year has seen the best success: with the Lagardere and Dufry group we have had major openings in Italy in various airports including Naples, Rome and Venice and negotiations are also taking place with other international travel retailers to open other distribution channels (cruises, diplomatic stores) in Europe and Asia-Pacific. The brand is appreciated both by Italian and foreign passengers, once again

we see confirmation of how the brand is appreciated by women from all over the world. We offer attractive Travel Retail Exclusives which can be completely personalized and created ad hoc for each retail environment. These new areas are giving us great satisfaction. The brand is highly appreciated and our willingness to create ad hoc kits has been rewarded with our inclusion in many airlines: first of all Alitalia. We are present in the Griffair magazine, the RossoAlitalia kit created for flight attendants has been the best seller for many months and still is. the make-up



Ironic, authentic and empathic: the communication of diego dalla palma follows these three concepts every new launch and promotion. Ironic because diego dalla palma never puts itself on a pedestal, the style is also recognized by knowing how to take life with lightness and the capacity to downplay things. Authentic because diego dalla palma does not speak of classic beauty. What for others is a “defect” for us is the element that distinguishes one woman from another. Empathic because all the diego dalla palma advertising campaigns tell a story. Every campaign comes into being as a game. It’s impossible not to notice it. the brow studio

Gianluca Oddi – the diego dalla palma international beauty ambassador International Beauty Ambassador for the brand Diego Dalla Palma Milano, Gianluca Oddi is a multifaceted artist with a natural talent for bringing faces to life through his artistic flair and inspiration for make-up, portrait making and graphic illustrations. Gianluca approached the art of make up for the first time assisting senior make-up artists at Italian designers’ fashion shows: Laura Biagiotti, Fendi, Fausto Sarli, Giorgio Armani and Jenny. He started then a full time partnership with the Italian make-up brand Diego Dalla Palma Milano as make-up artist, experiencing beauty events and participating in many co-marketing events with the Italian magazine Vogue Sposa, and the fashion runaways for the designers Dilek Hanif in Paris and CNC in Italy. Alongside the makeup Gianluca also started working as a graphic illustrator, designing artworks for the brand’s eye shadow palettes and events. After a few years he began working with the export team as International make-up artist for the brand, responsible for make up training management and events in Europe, Middle East, Africa, Asia and the Americas; it was a natural progression from there to become the official International Beauty Ambassador of the brand. A position built on his artistic experience where he was instrumental in rising awareness of the brand, in charge of communication with the international press and becoming the official ambassador for the brand’s partnership with Alitalia, as the co-creator and co-designer of the exclusive lipstick “rosso alitalia” and the official make up look for the Alitalia crew. Also key member of diego dalla palma’s product development team, analysing global trends in makeup and fashion to create new products to meet customers’ ever-changing needs and expectations.


Claudia Stagno



marc jacobs Eau so Decadent

continues the irreverent spirit

The third fragrance in the Decadence franchise, Eau So Decadent is feminine and indulgent with a light-hearted appeal

Originally launched in 2015, the Decadence franchise achieved worldwide recognition and success, raising Marc Jacob fragrances to a new level of luxury. This third instalment, Eau So Decadent, is an evolution of the irreverent spirit in the original Decadence and is decidedly feminine and still indulgent with a light-hearted appeal. Sheer, light and lavishly luxurious, Decadence Eau So Decadent introduces juicy fruits and radiant florals to create an enticing feminine signature with top notes of nashi pear, blackcurrant and green ivy. The middle notes of pink lily of the valley, magnolia and jasmine continue the floral femininity while white amber , together with cashmere woods and raspberry gloss,


reveals a hypnotic sensuality for a luminous and soft drydown. The fragrance has been created by Anne Buzantian of the Firmenich fragrance house. It is suitable for day or night and offers a new way to indulge. Inspired by Marc Jacobs’ iconic handbags, the innovative Decadence design was a flawless union between fragrance and fashion. For Decadence Eau So Decadent, the bottle has been reimagined with feminine details and softened accents. The perfectly arched snakeskin cap features a splash of blush pink and touches of teal creating a sensual contrast between light and dark. A shortened gold chain wraps the bottle for a lavish edge.

The flacon has been refashioned in clear frosted glass allowing the vibrant teal juice to shine through. Complementary to the bottle, Marc Jacobs Decadence Eau So Decadent’s outer carton is presented in a striking light teal finish with a luxurious gold logo centred across the packaging. The fragrance comes as an Eau de Toilette in three sizes of 30 ml, 50 ml and 100 ml. The global print advertising campaign was shot by renowned photographer Alasdair McLellan in conjunction with ad agency Art Partners, on location in London, and features models Kim Turnbull, Issy Boreman and Kesewa Aboah. The new campaign evolves the Decadence story with a new energetic spirit - a playful unapologetic call to be Eau So Decadent.













interpreting beauty for 100 years, and still young INTERVIEW WITH MARIE-LAURE SIMONIN BRAUN, CEO

Millenials for the 70th Anniversary of the “PATE GRISE”. We are also focusing on “MY PAYOT”, a line of radiance boosters for the healthy glow skin, very affordable in terms of price and playful.

EXPORT MAGAZINE: For some years now, we have been seeing a strong renewal of the PAYOT brand, what has the market reaction been? MARIE-LAURE SIMONIN BRAUN: Definitely positive. The brand has a circle of clients, raised interest and awareness in many countries. It is equally true that this brand has felt the need to root itself in the 21st century, the digital age, which we have entered fully, to be able to attack new international markets, as well as consolidate the existing ones. We have worked on our legacy, so as to leverage the strong competitive advantages of the brand on today’s markets: a “doctor” brand with cutting edge technology formulas, mythical products that interest the Millennials such as the ‘PATE GRISE’, an iconic jar, and being the creator of the GYM BEAUTE PAYOT.


These unique points of differentiation have greatly contributed to the opening of new markets and reaching younger consumers. EM: Have the new generations also perceived the value of the brand? MLSB: It has always been the case for Middle East, Asia & Americas. For continental Europe the perception has really shifted with the events targeting the

EM: Are you satisfied with the distribution of PAYOT at the international level? MLSB: To be strong internationally, you have to be strong on your domestic market. In France we achieved a 7% growth last year while the selective skincare market is down by 8%. We have a real dynamic in door opening, both in perfumery chains and in “pharmacies”. Russia is still our #1 Export market where we are ranked in the top 5 skin care brands.

EM: On which markets will you be particularly busy in 2017? MLSB: This year is the start-up of the American market. We have chosen a direct access to consumers, with an exclusive launch on Evine a TV Shopping channel. Our first shows were scheduled on July 12th and 13th. The next steps will be to launch our online web boutique and implement our digital marketing plan to sustain that new platform. Some independent retailers will carry the products and some “salons de beauté” will provide brand services to propose PAYOT beauty experiences. EM: Do you agree that Asia, for a cosmetic brand, has today an enormous potential? MLSB: Asia offers huge perspectives in many sectors. PAYOT is already strong in South Korea and a leader in Spas & Beauty Salons in Australia; 2 highly competitive markets where our performance is quite remarkable. We achieved double digit growth in South East Asia this year. Above the market potential for Beauty Brands it offers an infinity of business options and a great test and learn of Online/Offline models.


EM: Are there other markets you want to reach? MLSB: The United Kingdom is still a challenge; it’s an innovative market, retail and consumer driven. We should be able to accelerate our development there in 2018. I am convinced that, although the market is hyper competitive and retail oriented, there will always be room for skincare brands like PAYOT blending Beauty & Medicine and offering results to consumers with a high level of expectations. EM: PAYOT can be distributed in different distribution channels. Is this flexibility helpful at an international level? MLSB: The fact of being multi-channel is a plus for International expansion; we will be dealing less and less with traditional distribution. The motto is: Online/ Offline, reaching the consumers where they are and taking into consideration a real evolution of shopping habits.

In Europe, the classic models have to be broken down; shopping is becoming synonymous with experience and lifestyle. Like in Asia, retail places will metamorphose their activity to bring more than products and experience; we have entered the transformation era. Thanks to Millennials, who are very curious, dynamic, with a great desire to share, this Online/Offline business model becomes virtuous and sustains the evolution of retail. EM: What does “Beauty in Motion” consist of? MLSB: We will live longer and we will try to age as well as possible by preserving, among other things, a beautiful skin. We made the audacious choice of “beauty in motion”, on the contrary of a “frozen beauty”. The concept is global for PAYOT and we cherish being a beauty coach by offering to women the right gesture, the one that accompanies the application of the product, and an everyday fun GYM BEAUTE.

This is part of our DNA to encourage women to live a free, moving beauty, while providing real long-term gratification. It is important for PAYOT to deliver a message of daily well-being while assuming its Dr.Brand legacy. We take a kind and generous look at the authenticity of every beauty.

MLSB: Yes, it is a concept that can be understood by everybody! Let’s discover it ‘whenever, whatever, wherever’! C.S.

EM: Does this concept correspond well to the universality of the brand?

TFWA Cannes - BEACH VILLAGE 2 - Booth 14



The new collection contains the secret of magical beauty

BEAUTY OF the new artdeco NATURE make-up collection


Beauty of Nature is a complete make-up collection from ARTDECO with products for face, eyes, lips and nails. Skin Perfecting Make-up Base refines pores and is moisturizing, refreshes skin, enhances its texture and improves the application and lasting power of products applied afterwards. For a flawless porcelain complexion, Liquid Camouflage should be applied with a Large or Medium Oval Brush Premium Quality which allows achieving multi-pixel application: the fine synthetic hair pixelates precisely the extremely fine pigment, the texture blends with the skin and the skin texture is precisely refined. Signs of fatigue are neutralized by Long-wear Concealer waterproof, which also refreshes the eye area.

For an even, silky finish Setting Powder Compact has a softening effect. “beauty of nature” Blush Couture, in three matte coordinated shades, models and accentuates the cheekbones. The 3 in 1 Eye Primer neutralizes and camouflages uneven colour on the eyelids and creates an optimum base for perfect make-up. LongLasting Brow Liner guarantees even application with a smudge-proof finish. The new colours of eyeshadow are no. 130 “pearly chocolate truffle”, no. 261 “green harmony”, no. 274 “violet wisdom” and no. 23A “pearly golden dawn”. The Roll It Disc Eyeliner draws a matte, smudge-proof and long-lasting line precisely and exactly. Eye make-up is completed with Volume Sensation Mascara, with its soft over-sized

brush ensuring irresistible lash length and extreme volume. The Beauty Balm Lip Base is moisturizing and protective and increases lip volume, as well as smoothing the delicate skin of the lips. Soft Lip Liner waterproof in no. 94 “grape stomping” outlines the lips and Full Mat Lip Colour no. 54 in “burnt clay” gives a trendy lip look. It has a light, nourishing formula, is even and easy to apply, gives generous cover and is longlasting without bleeding. For perfect nails, All in One Nail Lacquer applied as a base evens out uneven nail surfaces optically and protects nails from discoloration. Art Couture Nail lacquer in colour no. 921 “glamorous nude” is the trendy colour in the collection and finally, All in One Nail lacquer can be applied as a top coat for a high-gloss finish. TFWE CANNES, 02-06 OCTOBER 2017 Blue Village, stand C 7


With the special hairbrush Superbrush hair-styling will be ultra fast and easy, even with the most rebellious and obstinate.

We present Superbrush a special brush for hair wich hasbeen designed, created and patented by leader company Giorgio Janeke srl. Characteristic and performance of the brush Superbrush is its ability to counteract the effect of the sunburn lengths thenks to the special structure of dissipation of the excessive heat. The pneumatic base of the brusch is in fact constituited by a bottom defined by a particular drilling beehive, patented. The hot-air of the hairdryer is evenly distribuited on the hair without stressing therm and they will result dry in few steps, qithout dryng-out.


TFWE CANNES, 02-06 OCTOBER 2017 Blue Village, stand C 7

MARCH 2018 TH TH 15 - 18

COSMOPACK COSMOPRIME PERFUMERY&COSMETICS GREEN&ORGANIC COUNTRY PAV. 14-16-16A-29B Organiser BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. - Milan - Italy ph. +39.02.796.420 fax +39.02.795.036 company of

16TH - 19 TH




W W W. C O S M O P R O F. C O M

in cooperation with

with the participation of



MASTERPIECE unique creations from

S.I.R.P.E.A. of Milan inaugurates a new collection of six high-end fragrances

For their new collection, Masterpiece by S.I.R.P.E.A. of Milan has asked the world’s nest perfumers to make their best olfactory creation. Each one was allowed to conceive their masterpiece as the maximum expression of their art of perfume-making. This is how the first six Masterpieces of a larger collection, which will grow and expand over the years, were conceived, embodying the elite of creativity in the world of perfume. First Breath by Leslie Girard pays tribute to the first emotion that a living being experiences, elevated in a creation inspired by love for life. The divine spark is expressed in the fresh and vital notes of bergamot, lime, grapefruit and


mandarin, which are slowly transformed into the hot and soft notes of body warmth with a bouquet of white flowers, basil and thyme before settling into the base notes of vetiver, patchouli and musk. Serge de Olivera has created the second masterpiece: Remember Me, an essence that will make you love, seek, remember and never forget. It is a warm gourmand embrace, evident from the top notes of bergamot, lavender, almond and black cherry and then the heart of liquorice, chocolate and heliotrope flower. Vanilla in the base notes, with sandalwood and musk soften the embrace. Nirvana, the paradise that everyone aspires to, is the creation of Michele Saramito.

top master perfumers

Top notes of mandarin, green leaves, Mirabelle and pink pepper, a heart of jasmine, ylang yang, tuberose, rose and orange blossom, and a base of sandalwood, amber, vanilla and musk create an intense floral fragrance‌. nirvana! My Way, created by Enrico Scartezzini, is a unique fragrance, just as the person who wears it has to be noticed immediately and leads a dynamic and active life. Bold woody notes and pungent essences contrast simultaneously with fresh, soft and musky notes. The debut of mandarin, green apple and cardamom introduces the soft and aromatic heart of orange blossom, lavender and nutmeg, while the base notes of tonka

bean, amber and leather add persistence and sensuality. Shadow of Your Smile is a mysterious essence by Dario Volpones. Sparkling and unpredictable, it opens with bergamot, lemon and orange, developing a floral heart of neroli, jasmine and geranium leaves and a base of cedar wood and musk. Vincent Ricord has created Stairway to Heaven, a citrus and spicy fragrance with top notes of lemon, bergamot, mandarin and incense. The heart is enchanted and ethereal with petit grain, jasmine, cardamom and black pepper. while the base notes of cedar wood, tonka bean, white musk and vanilla add softness and persistence.

S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. - Via della Liberazione 56 - 20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) Italy Tel. +39 (6 lines a.r.) - -



ARS MIRABILE secret codes from the past for contemporary fragrances

Perfumes and “Ars Mirabile Profumatoria”, the art of perfumery, came to the court of France thanks to Catherine de Medici, making her name inseparable from this magical process

Catherine de Medici’s “invention” of perfume came as a need to cover the stench she found on arriving in France . It was her trusted Perfumer, Renato Bianco, later known as René le Florentin, who worked the miracle of the alchemy of scents. Catherine’s heritage lives on as inspiration for the fragrances by Ars Mirabile, six creations based on the secrets of alchemy and perfumery from the renaissance capital of Florence. In beautifully crafted bottles reflecting the rich decorations of Italian and French Courts, the art of Renaissance Florence inspires the POS material, shoppers and merchandising material, bringing a touch of Renaissance refinement to contemporary life.


The Ars Mirabile Profumatoria fragrances Catherine de Medici’s fragrances were secret compositions, and to keep their ingredients known only to few people, they were written down in code. This cryptic language has been kept by Ars Mirabile Profumatoria to keep the atmosphere of Catherine de Medici’s time alive – and test the consumer’s decrypting skills!

Alma Bianca is a fragrance with a benign aura, shiny in its purity, which immediately arouses great admiration. Top notes: HGBAGLRP - TQFZGF Middle notes: SPTB - GSGT - XGPMFRRB Base notes: TBLEBMP - BNCSB

Filtro d’Amore kindles passion and induces temptation, so that whoever wears it will be loved forever. Top notes: MGNPLF - ABSEBNPNO Middle Notes: HFSBLGP - AFESP - QBRAIPVMY Base notes: MBCEBLP - XBLGHMGB - NVTK

Oblio dei Sensi is a perverse and magic potion, with the ability to distort mind and spirit. Top notes: EDXBLB - CFSHBNPRRP - QPNQFMP Middle notes: ABLLFMMB - GSGT - AFESP Base notes: GLAFLTP - TBLEBMP - NVTK

Alma Nera, René le Florentin’s fragrance, can make you release your free will in a dangerous game. Top notes: CFSHBNPRRP - BSBLAGP - SIVN Middle notes: SPTB - HFMTPNGLP - HBSPDBLP Base notes: NVTK - XBLGHIHGB - BNCSB - MFHLG

Lato Oscuro is a dark, cunning and mysterious essence, which dominates the will of others without hesitation. Top notes: AGQSFTTP - QGLP - MGNFRRB Middle notes: HGLEQSP - GLAFLTP - FMFNG Base notes: CFLZPGLP - BNCSB - TBLEBMP

Canto dell’Angelo is a celestial composition of divine origin which moves the earth, sun and stars with you. Top notes: NBLEBSGLP - SIVN - CFSHBNPRRP Middle notes: HFMTPNGLP - PSAIGEFB - NBHLPMGB Base notes: RBCBAAP - AVPGO - TBLEBMP.

S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. - Via della Liberazione 56 - 20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) Italy Tel. +39 (6 lines a.r.) - -




embodying female tastes across the globe

These new fragrances created by Prism Parfums have been created in collaboration with Time Products (UK) Ltd. and Swarovski Seksy Beauty’s first fragrances are to be launched at the TFWA World Exhibition. a collection of three Eau de Parfums which embody female tastes across the globe. Seksy Entice, Seksy Embrace and Seksy Elegance are the three creations, all of which are embellished with Swarovski crystals and available in three sizes – 30ml, 50ml and 100ml. The perfumes come in a stunning 12-sided bottle, each of which has its own dazzling Swarovski crystal. As an added attraction, the 50ml and 100ml sizes have a beautiful Swarovski charm around the neck of the bottle that can be used as a charm on a bracelet or a necklace. Seksy Entice is a sweet, fruity fragrae with top notes of apricot and mandarin, given a fruity boost with blackcurrant.


The heart is a rich floral with rose, orange blossom, caramel and jasmine notes. The fragrance finishd with profound and opulent notes of sandalwood, vanilla and amber. Selsy Embrace, a dynamic and glamorous fragrance, is a stunning floral gourmand Oriental. Feminine, enchanting and seductive with top notes of orange blossom, blackcurrant and pear, the heart is very rich with iris, jasmine and patchouli. Tonka bean, vanilla and a praline accord and musks create a deep and opulent finish. Seksy Elegance is an elegant exotic oriental for sophisticated tastes. A floral bouquet of bergamot, mandarin and champacca leaves leads to a heart of jasmine, rose, sweet pea, violet and sugared orchid. Amaranth wood, blackberry musk and plum add richness and complexity.

The perfumes are being launched with great confidence by Prism Parfum. A great deal of time has been spent on fine-tuning the fragrances to satisfy today’s increasingly discerning consumers. “The Seksy by Sekonda brand has built up a stomng reputation for quality whilst being “bang on trend”. The Seksy fragrcnes had to reflect those same qualities in terms of the fragrance and the packaging. The twelve-sided bottle is a nod to the Seksy timepiece heritage while the decoration befits the sparkle and glamour of both the Seksy and Swarovski brands,” commented Simon Moorehead, Managing Director of Prism Parfum. “Having a Swarovski charm dazzling on the 50ml and 100ml bottles makes them collectable and unique,” concluded Mr Moorehead.




when French savoir-faire meets Korean know-how Interview with Elizabeth Armenta-Tremosa and Miseong Kim, co-founders of MI-RE

EXPORT MAGAZINE: We are delighted to meet you here in Milan, at the launch for the press organized by your distributor for Italia Luxury Lab. Can you tell us about your adventure, two women, one from France and the other from Korea who unite their creativity and professional skills to create a Hybrid make-up brand unique on the market. ELIZABETH ARMENTA-TREMOSA: We met in 2014 at the professional show, Cosmeeting, in Paris. I had a consulting agency in the cosmetic sector and Miseong told me about her project for make-up and showed me a prototype; I also had lots of ideas and so we decided straight away to become partners and embark on a common journey. Although we are of different ages, cultures and experiences, we share same values and dreams, moreover we immediately liked each other from the start.


MISEONG KIM: When I met Elizabeth, I had just quit my company where I worked for 5 years. My experience in France fascinated and inspired me a lot. I have never imagined that I could meet someone with whom I could fully trust to start this new adventure after 2 hours of meeting! Thanks to our activity, I travel regularly between France and Korea and this allows me to have a multiple vision of evolutions in the world of cosmetics. EM: What does your brand bring that is new, with respect to what already exists? MK: When we created our own brand, in Korea there were already many ‘cushion’ products so the novelty was not to present a similar product; what we wanted to do was develop a truly unique formula with an exceptional texture, putting together all the advantages of BB creams, foundations etc. adding important skincare functions.

We tested many products by competition, we had our first attempts tested by Korean and European consumers and we put a great deal of time into obtaining an ideal formula. ET: We presented our products to distributors from different countries at the Cannes show from 2014 onwards. The reaction was immediately positive, because we have succeeded in bringing the savoir-faire of Korea to the West, with an adaptation to the different markets.

EM: What is the concept of the brand and its strong points? ET: We have created a product which is treatment and make-up at the same time. It is a highly performing product for a very demanding woman, which can be kept in a small bag. I give my example of a very practical woman who does not like to carry out an enormous cosmetic bag with her. I think that many women think like me: it is enough to have a single multi-purpose product that can leave the skin beautiful and radiant all day long!



The keys of the product are that it brings the savoir-faire of Korean techniques together with a very chic and elegant European vision. MI-RE has astonishing, hybrid textures, you start from a fluid base which becomes like a powder on contact with the skin, very pleasant to the touch. MK: I feel that I can say that our products sell on their own; when someone tries them for the first time, they can’t leave them. We have created a stand that communicates a lot with the consumer, illustrating the main features of our make-up-treatment. Besides the fact that our products meet 4 assets such as made in Korea, hybrid brand, high technology and beauty trends was the key of our success. EM: You have a very highly developed colour range… ET: Yes, it can satisfy all skin types: Caucasian, Asian and black. We are working with an excellent make-up artist named Isabelle Theviot who helps us a lot to select adapted shades to all kind of skin colours.

EM: What are your future objectives? MK: To continue making unique products, complementary to our existing ranges, with high concentrations of active ingredients and pigments to meet the face’s needs. After having launched the foundation and the contouring blush, we have just launched a new brow product: ‘Brow Plume Perfection’, in three colours. Once again it is make-up and treatment, because it also reinforces the hairs of the brow and stimulates their growth thanks to powerful active ingredients combined with a new gesture of beauty.

This is a gem of technology combining the rituals of Korean cosmetics with French sophistication and savoir-faire. Brow Plume Perfection is the perfect product to achieve perfect brows, such an important feature of the face. It is a 2-in-1 product with multiple functions, it has a felt tip at one end and a mascara with a curved brush at the other which adapts to every shape of brow. The make-up technology is unique: Perfect Brow definition combined with complete treatment. The special ingredient DHA provides a natural tattoo effect thanks to its self-tanning function. The result is long-lasting (3-5 days) and waterproof. The restructuring and protective treatment, thanks to Black food complex-17 and Cera complex (honey + ceramide 3), reinforces and stimulates growth of the hair and prevents hair loss at the same time. The product has a dual fixing and protective action, colouring naturally and fixing and thickening to add depth and volume, thanks to pigments diluted in an aqueous solution for a semi-transparent finish. The colour is even, with a natural appearance and modulable intensity.

EM: How are you developing internationally? ET: We are developing fairly well, considering that we are still a young company. Our distributors, at present in 12 countries, are very attentive and qualitative, perfect partners for a company like ours based on work of quality and dedication.



Organiser - Cosmoprof Asia Ltd


Sales Office Asia Pacific: UBM Asia Ltd - Hong Kong - ph. +852.2827.6211 - fax +852.3749.7345 Sales Office Europe, Africa, Middle East, The Americas: BolognaFiere S.p.a. - Bologna - Italy - for info: ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 - | Marketing and Promotion: BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. - Milan - Italy - ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 -


Visit us at: TFWA Cannes Riviera Village RC9



TRANSVITAL a quest for perfection since its beginning that would span decades and lead to a true innovation the ability to protect and stimulate the metabolism of the skin. With an intelligent approach and the fine quality of active ingredients was the base on which to develop and perfect the Transvital Regenerating Cream, a product that helps counteract the skin ageing process by stimulating the biological resources and favouring the circulation of vital energy.

Making the dream of timeless beauty come true The founder of Transvital, Jean Thomas, started his research in Shanghai, where he had gone to follow his tutor. There, studying at the university, he focused on immune tissue serums capable of reawakening the memory of cells and stimulating their regeneration. The concept according to which the body finds in itself everything that it needs to look after itself, restore its balance, recover its harmony and beauty: this was the focus of a period of research


Based on these results, Dr Jean Thomas and the Transvital laboratories developed a line of anti-ageing treatments designed to counteract the effects of ageing.

The Transvital mission Transvital has as its mission to offer a product, based on scientific research, which is capable of revolutionizing the market of beauty treatments, to disseminate the culture of beauty as the intensive care of the ego, both inside and outside and Transvital promises to make the dream of timeless beauty come true. The Transvital philosophy is based on continuous scientific research, the combination of biotechnology and biodynamics applied to highly effective active ingredients capable of stimulating the natural cellular processes. Exclusive proteinbased compounds stimulate the regeneration of damaged tissues to reinforce the immune system and slow down the skin’s ageing process.

Transvital products are unique because they are made with precious ingredients that are the result of in-depth medical research. The purpose of these studies was to define a protein compound for use in creating exclusive products with a high level of technology. Refined and elegant textures made the Transvital experience unique and unforgettable.


Transvital Regeneration My Mask This innovative beauty device is the very first dermo-cosmetic self-treatment for home and professional use. It combines the bio-dynamic cosmetic Transvital with the medical technology Young Again®, patented worldwide. Photobiostimulation and photoeudermia are combined to improve the cellular metabolism and stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. Transvital Regeneration My Mask makes exclusive use of light and heat technology with

a short range of operation (about 5-10 mm from the skin) ensuring no loss of energy and maximum treatment effectiveness. Channelling cosmetic products through the epidermis and dermis, it prevents and counteracts the imperfections caused by ageing,

strengthening the skin’s structure and optimizing its condition. The results are instantly visible: the volume of the cheekbones and cheeks is enhanced, the eyes are wider, the eyebrows are lifted, dark circles and wrinkles are reduced, for a more radiant and relaxed face.

Transvital and the sense of beauty The Transvital anti-age treatments for face and body applied by Transvital Personal Beauty Consultants regenerate the health of the skin, restoring the elements stolen by time. Massage and harmonious application of every product becomes a unique culture and philosophy of the senses, a skilful combination of techniques and sensorial pleasure to achieve the best results for rejuvenation of the face and body. The greatest expertise, customized service and extreme care, plus the experience of a great Swiss brand: all these ingredients are to be found at Cristallo Hotel Spa & Golf in Cortina d’Ampezzo, in the heart of the Italian Dolomites. For an elite clientele, it offers an exclusive setting and sophisticated facilities for an unforgettable stay and total rejuvenation. Tradition and style meet here to create an oasis of relaxation, with the best that technology and skin-cosmetic research can offer. The Beauty Service of the Transvital Swiss Beauty Spa are operated by beauty professionals who work synergistically with skill and precision in the centre’s nine Luxury Rooms. Specific programmes prevent and treat skin ageing, while expert massages help rediscover the pleasure of personal beauty.



BYBLOS SEPTEMBER revealing the hidden MORN soul of every man The latest creation for men from Byblos has an irresistible aura of mystery

Inspired by nature and those brief instants when the night gives way to the day, where the soul, dazzled by the first rays of the sun reveals its most intimate and secret side, to then disappear in a light and imperceptible breath, almost a distant memory, Byblos September Morn is the fragrance for the fascinating man, full of mystery who flees the frenzy of the world and at the same time likes to be overwhelmed by it. This woody fragrance with a bold and intriguing character is livened up by strong contrasts. The top notes are fresh and luminous with grapefruit, bergamot and hints of incense.


The noblest notes of wood - vetiver, cedar wood and patchouli - bring the heart of the fragrance to life. Warmth and the vapours of oud are found in the base notes, where oriental touches of leather, amber and musk envelop the woods in a mysterious trail. The bottle is an expression of character and mystery, reflected by the oppositions which represent the multiple soul of the male figure, Byblos September Morn is the new lively and bold woody fragrance. It is inspired by the reflective man, with a character rich in nuances and apparent contrasts. An almost dualistic complexity

which is also clearly expressed in the packaging, through the contrasts of materials and colours of the box and glass: first rough then smooth, first opaque and then luminous, first dark and stiff, then limpid and malleable. Byblos September Morn is a creation of Pierre-Constantine GuÊros. Fascinated by the force of fragrances and their extraordinary universal language, he finds his inspiration in audacious ingredients with a strong personality: like woods, fine and intense, with a thousand different facets – as unpredictable as life. Byblos September Morn in an Eau de Parfum in two sizes (100ml and 50 ml) and a Shampoo and Shower Gel (200 ml).

Visit us at: TFWA Cannes Riviera Village RC9



DUCATI for the attentive man in search of style and elegance The name of the prestigious motorbike manufacturer is now also an intense and daring fragrance Presented in June 2017 in the delightful seaside resort of Senigallia, on Italy’s Adriatic coast, by Diamond International of Milan, the new Ducati 1926 fragrance for men captures all the elegance of the motorbike brand. A woody, aromatic, oriental and amber fragrance, it is intense and daring like the man who wears it, underlining the strong and determined masculinity of the Ducati man: constantly in search of style and elegance. The fragrance opens with bold aromatic notes contrasted by accents of Mandarin and Bergamot. The heart is a new interpretation of tradition, with the notes of flavoursome Cocoa Bean sensually enveloping the timeless elegance of Lavender and the sobriety of Geranium.


In the base, functionality and aesthetic meet the imposing strength of Cedar wood and intense Amber notes which, enveloped by Vanilla and Tonka Bean, give comfort to the fragrance. The packaging is red and black, the emblematic colours of Ducati and the clean lines of the bottle with its sleek aluminium cap recalls the precision of the mechanics.

The graphics, with two white lines against a black background, represent speed and elegance, determination and audacity, all characteristics of the Ducati man. The Ducati 1926 fragrance comes as an Eau de Toilette in two sizes, 50 ml and 100 ml and continues in the extension line of Shower Gel and Deodorant Spray.










2017 MANE SUCCESSES Discover sophisticated scents created by MANE’s perfumers, that combine creativity with technology, thanks to MANE exclusive & innovative ingredients. Veronique Nyberg tells through TRUSSARDI RIFLESSO the story of the life of a man who considers sport a lifestyle. This new philosophy is expressed by head notes of Bergamot, Pink Grapefruit that create a citrusy Italian cocktail. Vibrant and energetic notes of Lavender Flower Pure Jungle EssenceTM and hints of Italian Leather, refer to the effortless elegance of the new culture of the masculine TRUSSARDI personality. Cécile Matton created STRONGER WITH YOU, the masculine scent of the new Emporio Armani duo. The fragrance surprises with his originality, like the spicy accord in the top notes - a mix of Cardamom, Pink pepper, and Violet leaves. Confident elegance and easy nonchalance are conveyed by the Sage at his aromatic heart. Smoky Vanilla Pure Jungle Essence™ and sugar coated Chestnut accord sensualize the base. Mathilde Bijaoui and Veronique Nyberg imagined an elegant, exhilarating and intense fragrance: ROMA PASSIONE UOMO by LAURA BIAGIOTTI. An Oriental Spicy creation that opens with an innovative modern freshness, and evolves into a deep, warm and sensual base, inspired by a love story about a man, a woman and the city of Rome. Alex Lee wrote two new stories in the Trade Route collection by Penhaligon’s. AGARBATHI transports us into the temples of India. The sacred resin Oliban blends into one with the omnipresent Incense and a milky-skin deep accord. The scent of Jasmine garlands lifts with light the sombre Vetiver and the fragrant Indian Sandalwood. PAITHANI reminds of the welcoming smell of spicy hot tea in India. An explosion of Spices, with Cardamom & Black Pepper Pure Jungle Essence™, associated with a silky, milky Rose. Cedar blends with the smell of Leather and with Amber. The fragrance celebrates travel, the greatest feat of independence.

Even more glamour and innovation to come… 33


Rouge Baiser Paris PERMET LE BAISER

The French cosmetics brand that has epitomised elegance and understated sensuousness since 1927 is getting ready for a major international rollout, with a complete range of exclusive, high-performance products

Deborah Group is preparing an international rollout of Rouge Baiser, the iconic French make-up brand that oozes allure and sophistication. Rouge Baiser is the pioneering brand that in 1927 actually invented the first ever “twist up lipstick” as we


know it today with L’Authentique creating the timeless, seductive gesture of a woman applying lipstick. Come next autumn, women all over the world will be able to buy every product that the thoroughly modern woman keeps in her beauty-case, from the creamiest anti-ageing,

hypoallergenic lipsticks in a host of fabulous shades, to foundations, eye shadows, pencils and concealers. Rouge Baiser’s aim is to provide luxurious cosmetics while lavishing consumers with irresistibly yet subtly sensuous make-up that delivers utterly timeless beauty.


A history of innovation

Rouge Baiser, the lip specialist

The legendary French cosmetics brand has a long history studded with success stories. Its mission is to seamlessly blend colour with art, and innovation with experience. The company was founded in Paris in 1927. In no time at all it shot to fame with what was at the time a game-changing concept: a twist up lipstick with an indelible formula. The world’s first “kiss-proof” lipstick, developed by French chemist Paul Beaudecroux, soon came to symbolise the brand itself.

Rouge Baiser is arguably the brand that pioneered an evergreen product: lipstick. And lipstick, the enduring symbol of seduction and emancipation, has been, still is, and will always be, on every woman’s lips. Today’s lipsticks are identical in every way to the very first ones marketed by Rouge Baiser, which consisted in a small stick of ultra-fine pigments blended with waxes and set in a twist-up tube. The twist-up mechanism would go on to become the norm in the world of cosmetics. Driven by its outstanding know-how and unrivalled expertise in the lip segment, Rouge Baiser has developed a superb array of colours stretching from the latest shades seen

The lipstick’s ground breaking packaging and extreme staying power originated from the inventor’s addition of simple face powder to the classic lipstick formula of the day. From that point on, lips became the focus of the Rouge Baiser image and, indeed, of its very soul. Traditionally symbolising femininity and female emancipation, lipstick has become an indispensable accessory that no woman will leave home without tucking in her purse. In 1949 René Gruau, one of the 20th Century’s most famous fashion and advertising illustrators, designed the iconic “Femme au Bandeau” or blindfolded woman, especially for Rouge Baiser, and the image gave the brand its unforgettable identity. Over the years, the Rouge Baiser range has grown to encompass all the must-haves needed for a complete make-over, and includes lipsticks, foundations, nail enamels and eye and lip pencils. All of the moisturiser-enriched formulations are hypoallergenic. The packaging retains its exquisitely stylised Art Deco design, making Rouge Baiser an inimitable and unmistakable “object of beauty” that continues to convey luxury and sophisticated style.

on the catwalks to timeless classics that never go out of style. Textures range from matte to glossy, velvet to sheer, and iridescent to lacquer, providing the perfect lipstick for every occasion and for every woman, even the most demanding.

Rouge Baiser, where make-up and art overlap Rouge Baiser has always sought synergies with art, history and fashion. Renato Zavagli Ricciardelli, the Italian graphic artist and fashion illustrator better known as René Gruau, collaborated with Rouge Baiser in 1949, and out of this relationship came a series of artistic images that would shape the Paris cosmetics firm’s brand identity. The most famous of these images is the iconic and enduringly recognisable “Femme au Bandeau”. The name René Gruau instantly conjures up striking depictions of female faces and figures: slim and slinky, very nearly reaching out towards the quintessence of timeless elegance. One of the foremost advertising illustrators of the 20th Century, Gruau contributed towards the renaissance of French haute couture, living alongside and working for the leading Italian and foreign fashion magazines. The sketch he created for the Paris-based cosmetics company Rouge Baiser was that of a blindfolded woman in black and white but with vivid scarlet lips: the image will forever symbolise charm, seductiveness and sophistication. Ground-breaking in its day, the image still retains every bit of its original power and beauty. Today the artistic and cultural legacy of Paul Baudecroux and René Gruau is reflected in the brand’s innovative packaging designs, products and formulations.






innovative concepts for the future of perfumery

Intertrade Group is a brand owner and license-distributor of art fragrances and beauty products, hand-chosen and curated by Celso Fadelli

Export Magazine interviewed the company’s tireless founder and President about a variety of topics, including the quirky installation presented at UNSCENT@Pitti Fragranze and the philosophy behind it. EXPORT MAGAZINE: What was the genesis of the successful “Fragrance is Who You Are”? CELSO FADELLI: The idea behind the recent “Fragrance is Who You Are” installation came into being at an internal brainstorming session of our company’s top management team. The aim was to create a unique installation for UNSCENT, the Intertrade Group’s cultural platform, that could capture the dynamism of Pitti’s exceptional artistic perfumery showcase.


The venue of the event was Stazione Leopolda in the amazing Alcatraz space, where we placed the different brands we represent, aligning them with the philosophy at the core of our installation. Visitors were accompanied and guided on a personal and emotional journey; designed to leave a long-lasting, comforting, and mutually thought-provoking visual sensation, triggered by merging high-resolution images with intense olfactory inspirations. EM: Why did you choose Toshy as your artistic partner? CF: Toshy had previously worked with one of our team members on international projects.

His talent stood out to us while he was taking part in a contest with 10 participating artists, as he had a wide range of undeniable qualities, including a broad global experience, positive energy galore, openmindedness, great adaptability, initiative, and creativity. He also had an added value: a great passion for perfumes, which was not to be overlooked. All these elementsmade him the perfect artistic partner for Intertrade on this installation. EM: Can you tell us how you think a perfume can be part of an individual? CF: Every individual is unique and every fragrance that a person likes, uses and associates with are unique to that person. For example, when you smell jasmine, you might think about how you look, when it is the right moment to use it, how it makes you feel. It can be compared to our relationship with music: when you are in a good mood, you may choose a particular song; when sad, another; and when you are in a reflective frame of mind, you choose yet another. So, fragrance means choosing one scent at a particular time,

simply because it seems to merge perfectly with your individual experience of the moment and the reality that surrounds you at that time. Fragrance thus represents the ability of an individual to be connected, mindful and aware of who they are and how they feel. EM: How does fragrance influence and determine its identity or express its personality? CF: A fragrance is as communicative as what you decide to wear each day. If you are happy you might want to wear bright colours or, in the case of fragrance, a light, bright citrus fresh-nectarine scent. If you need to feel confident, for example for a business meeting, you may choose a scent with a more woody essence, or maybe with vanilla notes, to give you confidence and reassurance. EM: You founded the first Intertrade Group company in the 1980s, with the idea of creating an olfactory experience with a strong curatorial footprint. How has this olfactory experience changed over time? CF: Intertrade Group is still very much about offering a carefully chosen, top quality, edited collection of brands and products.


Today’s world is based on motion, images in movement. Other innovative technologies that have been recently launched or are still being developed are aimed at allowing consumers to imagine, visualize or actually experience scents remotely. The new frontier is about working out how to be at the closest possible emotional “touch point” with the consumer.

It is the market that has changed enormously, including the brands and products we choose to offer, and how we evolve, moving forward in all aspects of our business. This can be in terms of retail and visuals, selecting more interactive spaces that lend themselves well to customer experience and dialogue, which are both extremely critical to us. An example of change is our recent focus on social media and Internet-based experiences, developed after having understood and embraced that not all our

clients are walking into physical spaces, but that some prefer researching or “testing” our concepts from their computers or mobile devices. As a business, we must always adapt and evolve, yet while the “how” has changed, the experience of an olfactory journey remains very personal and highly emotional. Technology and physical retail are meeting, getting closer to the client 24/7. Many artistic and commercial fragrances available at retail outlets are now using more images and videos in retail displays.

EM: What are you currently engaged in? CF: At the moment, I am working on creativity and expansion projects, both in developed and undeveloped markets. We recently opened the Avery Perfume Galleries in Cannes and Mykonos, and more openings are underway. We are also working on restructuring some company departments to create a more dynamic organization, which should become increasingly proactive and responsive every day. Intertrade Group is also organizing a number of brand programmes, such as the recent opening of Le Grand Musée du Parfum in Paris. Other spaces are being updated or renovated, to maintain our strong hold as an industry leader in the field of high-end artistic perfumery. EM: What do the terms “research”, “niche” and “luxury” mean to you? CF: “Research” to me is related to the concept of a team, allowing us to stay in close touch with consumers, partners, staff, and colleagues in the industry. We have to keep researching all the time, as consumers are moving faster than the industry, so marketing has completely changed. “Niche” used to mean a specialized segment of the market for a particular type of product or service, but now everyone is “trying to get easy into the game” so the specialization has disappeared.

And how can we speak of niche when there are still so many ambitious newcomers stepping in one year and exiting the industry the next? To me, “niche” ends when profit becomes the main goal, instead of innovation and quality. “Luxury” can mean comfort, rarity, satisfaction, quality, expensiveness, prestige, abundance, pleasure, indulgence... If a fragrance has one or more of these qualities or evokes any of these feelings, it can automatically become a luxury fragrance. For us at Intertrade, I can say that luxury is an emotional feeling, regardless of the price. As our fragrances are developed to provide emotional contentment, we believe they are luxurious and our price range is in fact very large. EM: The 15th edition of Pitti Fragranze had a special focus on sustainability. Is the idea of sustainability in the beauty and fragrance industry being conformed? CF: We have a responsibility as fragrance leaders to create quality products that bring good feelings, created and made with good quality raw materials; both for mankind and the environment. From the environmental sustainability standpoint, we have seen many companies in the industry becoming increasingly socially responsible, and we also have new ideas in mind to improve this aspect in our retail points.

“Please note that some of the questions and answers herein may appear in other publications, as they represent general areas of interest as submitted to Intertrade by multiple publishing entities.”


EM: How will you develop in the future? CF: With a continued expansion of sales doors, distribution channels, new launches, and a both sharper and tighter customer experience programme. We have to keep evolving and adapting, to remain aligned with the new visions and expectations of society. I must say, the recent launch of the new concept for ROADS has been a great success, and this is very encouraging. EM: What did you present at Pitti Fragranze? CF: As I just mentioned, the restyling and renewed concept for the ROADS collection, including the release of five new scents. In addition to this, we recently released Thinkback, a high-end stationery collection I created with my daughter Ingrid; launched the Recare PXF and Recare Soleamore skincare collections internationally; and released many new fragrances from our top perfume brands. The new ‘California Snow’ of A Lab on Fire is a masterpiece, created by a very young perfumer, and the new ‘Tuberose Interdite’ of the Andrée Putman collection is one of the sexiest fragrances you can smell in the market. EM: One last question: what future do you see for Pitti Fragranze?


CF: The topic of the future of Pitti Fragranze and of the shows dedicated to artistic perfumery is closely linked to the dynamics that the market is going through. We are in a crucial phase for the whole sector, which strongly shows the need for a new dimension of the world of fragrances, made up of visual forms, creative and artistic inspiration, all conceived to form a new purchasing experience, of which many speak about but that has still hardly, if ever, been produced by points of sale. The public is developing faster than the industry, and today it is asking more than just products. It wants both creative and emotional content, coherent with the expectations of those who are approaching a purchase, including images and ideas that can also be expressed on social media. The stimuli presented to consumers need to be suitable for an audience of “digital natives”, developed using new generation technologies that make products come to life, on the screens of our devices. This is an important topic that was emphasised throughout our UNSCENT ‘Fragrance is Who You Are’ installation, in terms of the visual content used to present our fragrances, created by Toshy, and the impactful way in which we presented this content to our visitors.

the dynamism of Pitti’s You Are’ installation aimed to capture The recent UNSCENT ‘Fragrance is Who al artistic perfumery showcase exception


UNSCENT GLOVE LOVERS: A CAPSULE EXHIBITION AT THE GRAND MUSEE DU PARFUM, PARIS The Grand Musée du Parfum in Paris is the venue this autumn (from 29 August to 15 October 2017) of a capsule exhibition. UNSCENT Glove lovers, in collaboration with the Swedish glove designer Thomasine Barnekow. After Milan and Florence, the exhibition arrives in the Ville Lumière: small stories and great secrets of master glove-makers and perfumers, it presents an exclusive selection of the extraordinary gloves by Thomasine in parallel with an edition of the renowned fragrances of Intertrade, to celebrate a little-known relationship between the world of gloves and that of fragrances, a “love story” which began in the 16th century. It was a tanner in Grasse in the Middle Ages, a certain Gallimard who had the idea of perfuming leather gloves to cover the unpleasant smell of the leather. He gave a pair to Catherine de Medici who was very enthusiastic about he gloves and set a real fashion trend in the royal court and aristocracy. It was in the 17th century that the perfumers of gloves reaches the height of their success. UNSCENT Glove Lovers unites the exceptional selection of artistic fragrances of Intertrade with the original gloves designed by Thomasine, a special tribute to the collaboration of success between these two trades in the 17th century and explores the contemporary concepts on the topics of fashion, accessories and perfumery.




Elite Beauty takes beauty Made in Italy into the world

Elite Beauty is the beauty line created from the licence agreement signed between Etoile Beauty and the international network of model management, Elite. The agency, an icon of fashion and beauty, is known all over the world for having launched super models of the calibre of Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista, but also thanks to the international Elite Model Look contest held in more than 30 countries, which each year selects the new faces of the world of fashion. During Elite Model Look World Final 2016 the Elite Beauty brand was presented. It shares with the agency the values at the basis of its philosophy. These values have given rise to emblematic and edgy products, rich in style and desire like the original model agency: they promise the appeal and experience of the fashion world, of which Elite is the undisputed icon. Elite Beauty now aims to break into foreign markets, joining the list of representatives of “made in Italy”, a brand that can boast of a record in quality, style and beauty.

The Elite Beauty woman is fashionable, contemporary and aware: she has a precise vision of herself, of her beauty and her aesthetic credo. She does not want to look “more beautiful” but simply desires “being beautiful” in a way that is unique and different from everyone else. She knows that beauty has to be cultivated


and nourished every day, that taking care of herself today is the best way to protect her beauty of tomorrow. This is why the range consists of: a line of make-up, one of skin care, one of hair care and, lastly, two original fragrances. With its innovative formulas and minimalist and elegant

packaging, it forms a complete beauty programme, designed to become the must-have of every woman all over the world, who can anticipate beauty trends and satisfy all her desire for beauty. The Elite Beauty products are professional and highly performing, designed to be used by make-up artists backstage of

fashion shows all over the world, but also by every woman in her own home, wherever she is. Elite Beauty breaks down the border between the world of fashion and the world of beauty and this way every woman can always feel beautiful in a unique way but as though she were always on the catwalk.



SKINCARE Taking care of your skin is essential. This is why Elite Beauty has created a line of gentle and performing products, suitable for women of all ages. The formulas are a perfect balance of technology and nature, created based on the properties of poppy seeds, emollient and antioxidant, which prevent skin ageing. The products include: a moisturizing face cream for normal and dry skins (Day Off 24 H), also available in the formula for normal to combination skins; a regenerating face booster, an eye contour cream, a two-phase eye make-up remover, a micellar water and a make-up removing gel.

Elite Beauty also tells a story through its fragrance: a story of love, passion, sensuality and freshness. POUR LUI an irresistible and anti-conformist fragrance: an Eau de Parfum with an unexpected fresh-woody bouquet which associates the tonic freshness of citrus fruit with the warm, sensual and persistent notes of sweet wood and musk. POUR ELLE, an extraordinary and complex olfactory construction liberates spicy, fresh and sweet notes and brings back to the mind sensations and memories of the past.

HAIRCARE The hair care line by Elite Beauty is made up of latest generation products: Kashmir includes a shampoo for daily use and a conditioner for luminous hair, while Velvet consists of a revitalizing shampoo and a conditioner that nourishes hair in depth.

The Elite Beauty line is completed by a full range of promotional items in the points of sale, samples and carrier bags.

MAKE-UP The line of make-up is sensory, innovative and versatile: the secrets of beauty are within reach of every woman. To highlight the eyes, the brand offers mascara to give definition and volume, length and thickness to the lashes, together with products to boost their growth, a waterproof top coat and a primer. In addition, there are also eyeliners, eye pencils, eye shadows with different finishes (both matte and satin) and trendy colours and lastly, brow pencils. Different textures are proposed to emphasize the lips (Audacity with a creamy texture and Red Carpet, a creamy lipstick with a matte finish), lip glosses (incredibly shiny Top Glosses), a lip liner and a lip pencil. There are also different foundations: one with a natural effect and moisturizing with SPF 15, also available in the version with a matte finish and Easy Chic a compact wet & dry foundation, again with SPF 15. The line for the face also includes a concealer (Perfect Touch), the compact powder Silk Touch, the matte powder bronzer (Sublime) and a compact blush (Charme).



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naj oleari the Italian cult

brand returns to perfumeries

In the 1980s it was a cult brand, with its unmistakable delicately patterned fabrics and accessories. This phenomenon spoke about landscapes, preserved nature and hope in the world and the future, is now back with Naj Oleari Beauty, with a strong background based on quality, design and, of course, Made in Italy. The new modern and contemporary perspective has been given to Naj Oleari make-up by EuroItalia, in a line with 45 types of product for a total of 188 references. Innovation pervades all aspects of the line, from the product design to the individual components and packaging, from the formulas to the colours and fragrances.


Naj Oleari has a transversal target: its original consumers from the 1980s but also the new generation of Millennials. The spirit of the brand remains the same: playful, entertaining, colourful, fresh, elegant, sparkling, feminine, sensual, light-hearted and creative. The make-up line is a tribute to colour, beauty and contemporary femininity.

The Naj Oleari products have a modern and contemporary packaging in rose gold, decorated in the details and finishes with the legendary Naj Oleari illustrations, in a contemporary reinterpretation. The cases and lipsticks have innovative magnetic fastenings making them even more practical and elegant. All the formulas are easy to apply, long-lasting, with a sensory and comfortable texture, effectively moisturizing and anti-ageing and paraben-free, enriched with the best ingredients of natural origin. For the first time, a make-up line has been created with fragrances created exclusively for the brand by a Master Perfumer, like Funny Petal, Marshmallow and Figue Sorbet.

Photographie : © Soup Studio

Sentéales provides even the most sensitive skins with efficient results & a sense of complete well-being.

11 rue du Colisée - 75008 Paris - FRANCE - Tél. : 33 (0)1 55 37 03 11 -

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SENTéALES all the french expertise of aromatherapy A plural vision of beauty based on essential oils and natural active ingredients

Export Magazine talked to Franck Benet, the founder of Sentéales EXPORT MAGAZINE: Mr.Benet, you launched the brand Sentéales a few years ago. What is the philosophy behind it? FRANCK BENET: The creation of Laboratoire Sentéales came from the desire to offer very high quality cosmetics based on the principles of aromatherapy. We conceive highly performing products which give pleasure when used. Far from the aseptic images on glossy paper, we are convinced that beauty is plural, that what really counts, is feeling good in your skin… With our cosmetics, this is possible. If we help fight imperfections, certain skin problems, we also accompany women in their daily


grooming with nomad care with immediate effects, such as our Brume Vivifiante, our Gommage Douceur, our Contour Yeux et Lèvres, our Masque Pureté… It is not up to them to adapt to our vision of beauty, it is the opposite. This also explains the multiple associations possible between our products, which contribute to creating made-to-measure care. Beauty according to Sentéales is both resistance and liberty at one and the same time. EM: Which are the main characteristics of your products, and what makes them unique on the market? FB: Sentéales occupies a separate

place because by mastering the complex art of assembling essential oils and natural ingredients, we offer unique and innovating products. At the heart of our range, the four Elixirs d’Arômes, express the best of this expertise linked to formulation. Our trilogy of anti-ageing care «Insolente Jeunesse » (elixir, serum, cream) uses more than sixty plant ingredients including the immortelle, the black orchid, myrrh, Damascus rose, cherry blossom… For an unequalled result... We use the rarest essential oils (sometimes, as for the absolute of perfume, it takes several tons of plants to obtain a few precious decilitres). This absence of concession associated with the inventiveness and the seriousness of the best researchers makes our brand one of the references in the sector of aromatherapy. On the other hand, the encounter with Sentéales arouses a real emotion, the colours, the textures, the fragrances… Everything is an invitation to a singular sensory experience. EM: Sentéales has a very delicate image, how important is the presentation of the product to perceive its content? FB: It has been said that aromatherapy makes “the impossible possible, the possible easy and the easy elegant”, we wanted to keep this elegant lightness which is also found

in the use of our products. Our emblematic colour, borrowed from the Parma violet, evokes calmness, serenity and purity, three values dear to Sentéales. On the other hand, the essential oil, the twin of fragrance, is a noble and delicate matter, which induces an image which we want to be modern, timeless and harmonious all at the same time. EM: Natural products express today’s trend. Therefore, when we talk about skincare products, efficacy is one of the most important issues. Do you agree? FB: The search for efficacy is a feature of our society today, a need. It is imposed as obvious, and it is, yet it alone cannot guarantee happiness. In the creation of a skincare product. Its comfort of use, the texture and the quality of the active ingredients used must not be forgotten… they will bring on the pleasure that can be enjoyed when using our products. The efficacy of the natural active ingredients no longer has to be proven, our moisturizing duo Source Intense (cream and mask) is exemplary it offers a targeted moisturizing power that lasts beyond 24 hours, but its application also procures original satisfaction. Efficacy has meaning only when it is associated with a certain amount of hedonism and if it allows total fulfilment.


EM: Your company is based in Paris. Does this help approach and conquer international markets? FB: I think that, as far as Paris is concerned, we have to show humility. If France and Paris still convey an image of creation and elegance,

on an everyday level, our partners are just as interested in the specificity and quality of our products as by our address in Paris. France, which has been the cradle of modern aromatherapy, is still a leader and “made in France” remains a self-evident fact of which we are proud.

EM: Which are the main markets that you have reached so far? In which channels of distribution do you mostly sell Sentéales? FB: Sentéales is today in about fifteen countries, we cover, for example, Asia (China, Korea, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam…), North America with the United States and Canada, the Middle East and of course France including the overseas departments and a part of Europe. Our products are found in fine stores, department stores and also in certain hairdressing salons and several selective perfumeries. Our professional care, supported by specific protocols, are used in beauty salons as well as in Spas. We are also present in some exceptional hotels, at the

Boutique Eden Roc in Antibes, at the Conrad Hotel in Tokyo, at the hotel Villa Delisle on the island of La Réunion… EM: Where do you wish to extend your presence in the near future? FB: First of all by giving a daily support (Training, communication…) to our partners, we are working to support the presence of Sentéales in the countries where we are already present. For the new countries the margin of progression is considerable but it is reasoned. we expect to be present in four to five new countries in the coming months, our brand is precious and desirable… It has to find the right context to flourish.




WERUSKA & JOEL a winning AND LOTTO andteamWorldwide in Italy The latest addition to Lotto collection is the Green line, inspired by the fresh touch and natural world of golf

Under licence to Weruska & Joel, the exclusive worldwide distributor for Lotto alcoholic fragrances and toiletries, another fragrance has been added to the popular Lotto 4 Sport range. Green joins the line-up: green like the golf course and the fresh and man fragrance. A golf ball is the symbol of this new essence with its fresh and bucolic notes. It enriches the line already distributed with the fragrances Force, Power, Speed and Energy. Force, representing the world’s most popular sport, football, is fresh, citrusy and woody. Ideal for a self-confident man, its notes are a harmonious blend of citrus, Artemisia, lavender and woods. Power, matched with tennis, is an aromatic, fresh and amber fragrance with an exclusive personality.



It is distinguished by a green colour code. Speed, with an orange colour code, evokes basketball and is aromatic, woody and ambery. Energy, corresponding to volleyball, has a yellow colour code and with its fresh, fruity and vanilla notes is voluptuous and seductive at one and the same time. The fragrances, all 100% made in Italy, are completed by an extension line with a Shower Gel & Shampoo 400 ml matching each eau de toilette, and with a 3 in 1 formula. It is the ideal product for face, body and hair, as it is gentle but moisturizing and balancing.

Lotto 4 Sport is also available as a Bath Foam & Shampoo in all five fragrances. Again, the 3 in 1 formula for face, hair and body is refreshing after sport. It comes in a generous 500 ml size + 300 ml free. To stay fresh and protected all day long, the Deo Body Sprays 150 ml are practical and functional. Shaving becomes part of the Lotto 4 Sport experience with the Shave Foam (300 ml) with soothing and emollient ingredients in the Force (classic), Power (Fresh) and Speed (for sensitive skins) versions.

The fragrance can also be enjoyed in the After Shave (100 ml), a splash format to complete the shaving ritual. The design of the packaging for Lotto 4 Sport is of a high level and only high quality materials have been used. The graphics are eye-catching and add to the high visual impact of this line, popular around the world.

Eau de Toilette - Shower gel & Shampoo - Deodorant body spray


Visit us at HALL 1E - STAND K6F Exclusive Worldwide Distributor - MADE IN ITALY - -




freedom and evasion to live in harmony with yourself

After more than 400 years, the adventure lives on in modern products reflecting an ancient soul

The adventure of Compagnia delle Indie started over four hundred years ago, trading in spices and precious commodities from faraway lands. Now all the fascination of this distant world is within reach today, with the products of a brand identifying the desire for freedom and evasion. 100% made in Italy, the products, distributed by Weruska & Joel appeal to all ages with a style that identifies the need for freedom and evasion by rediscovering the pleasure of living in harmony with yourself. Shower Gel & Shampoo 250 ml comes in personalized bottled and caps, with a decoration in relief, the labels have details in glossy gold and it is available in six different fragrances.

Bath Foam & Shampoo 500 ml in trendy fragrances is packaged in eye-catching colours. The customized bottle and cap has decorations in relief. Liquid Soap 300 ml is emollient, delicate, extra moisturizing and nourishing. It has specific formulas and top-selling fragrances, as well as being dermatologically tested.

Deodorant Bodyspray 150 ml comes in three different fragrances, is ideal for all the body and has a long-lasting dry effect.

Parfum Intense 100 ml for men and women are captivating unisex fragrances in a 100 ml natural spray aluminium can. The Intimate Wash 300 ml is gynaecologically tested and its formula is allergens and parabens free, neutral pH, it contains lactic acid and glycerine, Odor Control action and is suitable for all skin types. The graphics, colours, decorations and caps evoke the classic Compagnia delle Indie world in a modern style. Deo Parfum 100 ml are gentle deodorants to perfume the body in a natural spray version, in six fragrances with high impact eye-catching colours and customized packaging with gold details. The eau de toilette Voyage & Deo Parfum 100 ml comes in three fragrances, one for women and two for men. The feminine fragrance is a floral and fruity one, and for men, Original has citrus and woody notes and Wood has citrus, aromatic and spicy accords.


52 Exclusive Worldwide Distributor WERUSKA & JOEL S.r.l. - Torino -

LIPS IN FOCUS NO TRANSFER Special no-transfer, smudge-proof texture, quick drying leaving no marks, remains on the lips without slipping or fading.

LONG LASTING A liquid lipstick with a long hold, and a unique and variable texture: creamy on application becoming a light velvety veil for a flawless color that lasts up to 9 hours!

FULL COVERAGE Full coverage after only one application. The lips are moisturized and perfectly defined thanks to the innovative concave applicator that allows for an easy application.













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11 & 12 April 2018


Conrad Hotel

#MakeUpinSeoul 60


Shanghai Exhibition Center

22 & 23 June 2018

25 & 26 April 2018


Barker Hangar


Los Angeles

7&8 Feb 2018

Carrousel du Louvre

#MakeUpinParis •



GLI ELEMENTI an intelligent alchemy of the

elements with italian savoir-faire INTERVIEW WITH DAVIDE BRICHETTI, CEO

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Can you tell us how the brand ‘gli elementi’ came into being? DAVIDE BRICHETTI: It was founded in 1999 in our family company; in 2011 there was a generational change from my father to myself and I became the CEO of the firm. In previous years, having had the opportunity to live in Singapore for four years, this gave me knowledge of some markets in South-East Asia and I began to work in the international sector, which then became our main focus. Since 2013, when we were present on only three European markets, we are now in about fifteen markets in Europe, the Middle East and Asia EM: How has your brand succeeded in getting a good position on markets which at times can be complicated and competitive?


DB: We believe that gli elementi is a unique skin care line that combines the true long-established Italian tradition of thermalism and the most advanced research of the best science, solely carried out in Italy. The power of appeal of the products lies in an intelligent alchemy of minimalist thought and style which is typical Italian, starting from the logo. It is a logo that is recognizable from all points of view and by all nationalities, with a meaning that communicates directly. “gli elementi” sees the man (the central cross) as a link between the material level (the lower half-square facing downwards) and the spiritual level (the upper half-circle facing upwards). The essential meaning is that even through simple daily gestures, it is possible to find a deepness of listening to our body leading to life balance. Our philosophy revolves around the logo and giving value to our interiority: the fact of devoting those 15-20 minutes to oneself, in such a frenetic world, reconciles us with ourselves, helping us to reach a harmonious equilibrium. EM: What is the principle on which your product lines are essentially based? DB: The fundamental principle behind the development of each of our products is sensoriality.

This means that we work on the senses, on sight, on touch, on the sense of smell. The texture of the product is important, so that when we apply it, the effect is pleasant from every point of view. The fragrance, as well as the texture, is one of the main aspects. The fragrance will marry that specific type of product it is combined with. A detox product will be characterized by a very natural, sensory and delicate fragrance, and will be easily recognizable by the consumer. One test that we like to do is, opposite an anonymous bottle, recognize the fragrance and the texture of the product. We work on a light texture, with a very high skinfeel and this means that our products can be sold in pharmacies and in perfumeries. We are a geothermal brand, competition exists and our decision is also to stand out by the sensation of pleasantness, harmony and well-being that comes from using ‘gli elementi’. EM: So it’s important to stand out…. DB: Absolutely. ‘gli elementi’ is the only brand using two different sources of geothermal waters orographically located in the same thermal facility and with a supply of minerals with different natures.

Mainly made of salsobromoiodic geothermal water, sulphurous geothermal water and geothermal plankton, in versions that suit all types of skin and iso-epidermal pH, “gli elementi” are particularly rich in natural active ingredients of geothermal origin, essential for a perfect affinity with the skin. One element of distinction comes from the packaging; you can notice that every sub-line has its own colour, the logo changes depending on the line of reference, with a strong recognisability on the shelf. To each product we have given a second name, as though to be on first name terms with the consumer, a claim to address the final consumer directly. One of our moisturizing creams is expressed with “refresh your smile”, as though it were making a promise. This is how we stand out: a packaging that speaks, authentic Italianness in the contents and sensory products. EM: How many lines do you have overall? DB: About ten, with about forty references. Face care, body care and bath products, with a strong characterization on products for the face. The lines meet the various needs of the skin, so we have anti-acne treatments, products for oily and combination skins and anti-ageing ones.


I emphasize the concept of being able to offer real Italian-made products, supported by an R&D laboratory which is the expression of excellence in formulation, as well as for packaging.

For the body, we offer specific anti-cellulite, anti-stretch marks, for sensitive skins, for the bust-décolleté, as well as the classic daily treatments. EM: Do you have any important launches in store for the coming year? DB: We are very excited by what we have in the pipeline for next year. In 2018, we will be launching two new lines on which we have been working for over two years: a detox face line with an extremely innovative and sensory texture, and a very high level whitening line developed and designed for the Middle Eastern and Asian markets, after having carried out evaluation and appreciation tests for more than 18 months directly in loco. EM: Does the fact of proposing specific cosmetic lines help the development of international markets? DB: Absolutely. In addition, the various services we guarantee are also very much appreciated by the distributors: our reactivity in answering, the prompt delivery of the goods, the speed in answering the demands for certain products not yet in our portfolio. We study these requests together with the distributor and, depending on the feasibility, these may as was the case for the last four lines launched, be produced and sold on all the markets. For the development of foreign markets, it is important to show flexibility.

EM: Do you think that training is essential for your brand? DB: Certainly, the specialization we have matured over the years on foreign markets, as we are present on various continents, allows us to relate the demands of existing and potential clients, both at the level of product culture and of service.

We provide assistance on the product and in every country we offer precise and thorough training, we want to offer customers what they need, establishing a relationship of real partnership. Our price positioning is medium, we range from a cleaning product at euro 18 to our luxury anti-age line at euro 70, with an average per line of around euro 35. EM: What type of support do you give the distributor? DB: We support the distributor with all the marketing and merchandising instruments necessary to make the brand known to the consumers. EM: Are there any specific geographical areas you wish to explore? DB: In the Middle East and Asia, where we are already present in the main leading markets, we want to complete distribution in some areas that are still not covered. In the following years we intend to look at the market in South America and the United States. Finally, the continent where we are based is always of great interest.

EM: What are the goals reached which have given you particular satisfaction? DB: September 2017 was definitely a strategic month for “gli elementi”, with the launch of the brand on two of the markets with the highest growth rates in the world, Russia and China, through absolute leading companies of distribution in the respective countries. I am very excited and at the same time satisfied with these two important goals which show how great the appeal and appreciation is of the contents conveyed by the Italian brand “gli elementi” on foreign customers. They confirm without the shadow of a doubt that the path of relaunch and internationalization of the brand started in 2014 is giving results, beyond the rosiest expectations.


“GLI ELEMENTI” EXPERTISE IN ANTI-AGEING The luxury anti-ageing line by “Gli Elementi” is the result of high technological innovation with outstanding formulations to fight wrinkles and the signs of passing time. The line consists of three products: Precious Revitalizing Day Cream, Sublime Revitalizing Night Cream and Revitalizing Flash Filler Serum. The products are based on a new concept of advanced cosmetics, in which active ingredients, structure and texture work together to develop an ambitious result: immediate and long-lasting perfect skin. All three products are a real pleasure to use, silky to the touch, they have an elegantly velvety result and an appealing fragrance. Soft and rich, but absolutely ultra-penetrating, the textures give skin instant comfort, generously and wonderfully pampering it. The sensory pleasure is increased by the delicate note of the frangipani fragrance.






fragrances and personal care products






GOLDanSEDUCTION explosion of fragrance

An addictive perfume for a glamorous and sensual woman

Gold Seduction is the new fragrance by Women’secret which is addictive and sensual. Floral, fruity and gourmand, its top notes of raspberry, bergamot, lemon and mandarin are fresh and lifting; the heart of peach, jasmine and white flowers adds elegance and creaminess while the sensual background comes from the sweeping sweet notes


and precious woods of patchouli, cashmeran, vanilla, cedar and musk. Designed exclusively for a glamorous woman full of character, it will brighten up her nights and make her feel very sexy. This addictive fragrance is like an explosion of gold transformed into perfume. The evocative colours and sophisticated materials of the

bottle conveys elegance as well as sensuality through its clear and faceted cylindrical glass, which is complemented by a metallic gold top for a sensual and feminine result. The glittery bow is an attractive detail for the most daring and the spherical cap’s magical reflections offer the final detail, making Gold Seduction a sophisticated, elegant and irresistible perfume.




these are the values focused on by DIVAGE, a young Brand of Made in Italy make-up with an International character

divage quality, originality, affordable prices


Divage, Brand of make-up, fragrances, skin care and accessories, has built up its own identity by putting maximum emphasis on the quality of its products - created, formulated and made in Italy by the most authoritative Companies in the sector – with an extremely cute and colourful range able to win over a wide and very attentive target. The extensive range, the attention to detail, the look & feel, the high performance of the products and the choice of the selective perfumery channel make Divage a qualified Beauty Consultant that is inspired by a dynamic and trendy woman, covering all make-up segments: eyes, brows, nails, lips, face, fragrances and accessories.


The permanent collection boasts over 350 references; the best-selling items are the mascaras, strength of the Brand, thanks to the quality of the bulk and the specially designed brushes which give lashes perfect definition according to the claim of the product (volumizing, lengthening, curling, false lashes effect etc.‌); the wide range of eye, lip and eyebrow pencils to which DIVAGE has dedicated a special counter display; the rich line of curative nail varnishes which offers 8 base and top coat treatments and the ultra-performing and long-lasting lip products. During every year are scheduled launches of new products and every month the whole line is animated by attractive promotions. Alongside the permanent line there are the two spring/summer and fall/winter collections. The latest is LOOK AT ME, the Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection whose peculiarity is to enclose

highlights in a single product, revealing a cool and metallic soul or the warmer and golden one, via a range of glowing shades: absolute new entry is the Lip Primer, which prepares lips for the application of lipstick and gloss, moisturizing them and guaranteeing a long-lasting finish

without smudges together with the original Velvet Stylo Lipstick and the Metallic Glow eyeshadows in 4 innovative metallic shades. An intense and luminous range of golden shades, on the other hand, enriches the family of Highlighters and Waterproof Eyeliners & Kajals.

The distribution channel chosen is that of independent and private perfumeries, selective perfumeries and some regional chains, in line with the mission of the Company: to bring young consumers back to the perfumery shop, aiming at Italian-made quality and affordable prices. The strategy of development implemented by the Company that owns the brand Divage Fashion Srl, present in Italy since January 2015 with offices in Milan and Rimini - has led to have a high number of points of sale in Italy in just less than two years and in 2017 the decision to appoint a distributor - IBC Cosmetics – to accelerate the distribution process. Divage Fashion, which belongs to an important Russian holding company, United Europe, also markets Divage in the rest of the world where it is already present with consolidated business in France, Spain, Saudi Arabia, Turkey, North Cyprus, Poland, Hungary, Iran, the United Arab Emirates and Brazil. Expansion on export markets is today one of the major objectives of the Company which already has many negotiations at an advanced stage and embraces a continuous screening activity for the identification of the most promising and receptive markets for the introduction of the Brand.



arrogance affordable luxury fragrances Renewal. This is the key word to describe the important evolution by the iconic brand of the 1980, the emblem of fragrances “Made in Italy” The First has done meticulous and in-depth work, based on the continuous search for quality, together with proposals that are always in line with the market trends, taste and refinement in the choice of the packaging. In the past two years, every reference has been reviewed and enriched to express a more refined image with a positioning coherent with the concept of “affordable Luxury”. Major “tailored” work of renewal has started with the two leading lines, Arrogance Femme and Arrogance Uomo. Keeping the connotative shell structure, the shapes have been modernised and great attention has been paid t the colour choice and touch (fabric effect for Femme, leather effect for men). The historical 75 ml size has been doubled offering the market the new 50ml and 100 ml sizes, and light, minimalist and modern graphics enhance the packaging giving maximum highlight to the brand and the line. The proportions of the boxes, a real precious container for these jus, enhanced by a new opaque finish, are also important. Arrogance Femme consists of: Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 100 ml, Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 50 ml, Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 30 ml, Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 20 ml special “Travel size” in a shell, Shower Gel 400 ml, Body Lotion 400 ml, Deodorant Spray 150 ml.


Arrogance Uomo offers Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 100 ml, Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 50 ml, Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 30 ml, Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 20 ml Special “Travel size” in a shell, After Shave Natural Spray 100 ml, After Shave Balm 75 ml, Hair & Body Shampoo 400 ml, Deodorant spray 150 ml.

The graphic restyling also involves the other lines offering for Arrogance Homme and Arrogance Blue a new graphic look, with a precious minimalism and opaque materials of the supports. Both lines are made up of Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 100

ml, Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 50 ml, Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 30 ml, After Shave Natural Spray 100 m, Hair & Body Shampoo 400 ml, Deodorant Spray 150 ml. All the men’s lines also have a new spray can for the deodorants, with more massive proportions and enhanced by opaque finishes. The Arrogance family is completed by the latest feminine proposal, Arrogance Passion. With a strong colour and a high impact, the fragrance is in an elegant bottle with soft and irregular lines, available in the 50 ml and 100 ml sizes, together with the bath line made up of Shower Gel 400 ml, Body Lotion 400 ml and Deodorant Spray 150 ml.



GIANMARCO fragrances for VENTURImulti-faceted consumers The unmistakable style of the Italian brand linked to the Florentine designer of the same name, wins over with the charisma that has always distinguished it both in fashion and in accessories since the 1980s Rigour and classic tradition are opposed to innovative details, in line with market trends. In the same way, the GianMarco Venturi fragrance addresses a woman and a man with a thousand facets, in continuous evolution. She is the woman of yesterday and today, a woman with a thousand faces and multiple ways of being. And of her man, who courts and is courted, classic in the label but daring in acting. On the journey of global renewal implemented by The First, the GianMarco Venturi lines undergo an important renewal. The continuous search and attention for details now leads the two historical lines, GianMarco Venturi Woman and Girl to elegant and essential effects of colour and contrast with which the two lines offer their relative versions of Eau de Toilette and the more precious Eau de Parfum. In particular, The First now presents the new graphics for the GMV Girl Eau de Toilette packaging which, keeping the colour code, exploits the emblem of the G for an elegant green-white colour contrast.


A recent proposal for women, GianMarco Venturi Femme offers a refined and elegant bouquet in a bottle with minimalist lines, enhanced by the most seductive shades of violet. The women’s lines are made up of the fragrance in the 100 ml, 50 ml and 30 ml sizes, with alongside the Shower Gel 400 ml, Body Lotion 400 ml and Deodorant Spray 150 ml. Alongside the restyling of the existing lines, there is the latest creation, GIANMARCO VENTURI OUD.

It comes in a box with a matt finish and precious silver details. The line is made up of Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 100 ml and 30 ml, Hair & Body Shampoo 400 ml and Deodorant Spray 150 ml with a more precious and eye-catching packaging solution.

Alongside Oud there are the GianMarco Venturi ESSENCE and HOMME SPORT lines which, involved in an important restyling of the bottle, the finishes and graphic design, forms the “FRAMES” portolio of fragrances by GianMarco Venturi. Intriguing and mysterious, the GianMarco Venturi man takes on a new seductive charge. Contained in a packaging with minimalist and impressive lines, there is a jus with strong tones, a blend with a “smoky” character, emphasized by the preciousness of Oud.



LAYLA COSMETICS 81 years of italian beauty Founded in 1936, Layla Cosmetics combines science and technology, anticipating fashion and beauty trends

It was 1936 when Layla Cosmetics was founded and since then it has been a leading manufacturer and supplier of nail/gel polishes and cosmetics. Thanks to the values of its past experiences, Layla is well established in the beauty sector, combining science and technology and anticipating the trends in fashion and beauty all over the world.

Its philosophy has always been to combine the extremely high quality and effectiveness of the products with a competitive price, especially in this period, when competition is becoming increasingly aggressive.

The cosmetics market, while resistant to any type of crisis has changed incredibly since Layla Cosmetics was founded. Research by consumers for make-up on the Internet has increased exponentially, so that online tools are now the main way consumers look for cosmetics. Thanks to the efficient PR office of Layla Cosmetics, the company is very active on media channels (Facebook, Youtube, Twitter, Instagram and the company’s institutional website), with direct contact with consumers and bloggers about products, new products, methods of application, new launched and personalized tips.

From the past to the present, Layla Cosmetics is always to the fore, confirming its ability to detect and anticipate new trends.

INTERVIEW WITH TATIANA ELLEBORO, Export Manager, Layla Cosmetics

This unique and fascinating case history can today boast of an extraordinarily rich array of exclusive unforgettable products, thanks to the successful formulas consolidated in the Layla laboratories, certified ‘Made in Italy’. All this has made for 81 years of extraordinary successful Italian beauty.


EXPORT MAGAZINE: Where is Layla Cosmetics distributed? TATIANA ELLEBORO: The international distribution (selective perfumeries, beauty stores, spas, department stores, chains and the masstige market) has undergone great development and the brand is distributed on most of the continents – Europe, USA, Africa and Asia. The Middle and Far East countries are performing very well: Israel, Iran, Iraq, UAE, the Gulf countries, Pakistan and Libya are the driving markets. We have had great results especially in Pakistan and Iraq, thanks to mutual trust and the implementation of our major projects over the past two years. In Pakistan, which is not influenced by multinational companies, all of our success stories take shape in an extraordinary way, because women have a strong and genuine interest in professional quality products. After two years of intense work, we were finally able to enter to of the major markets, Israel and Iran, because of the long time it takes for sanitary registration and the strict process involved. The results, however, have been greater than our expectations for Gel Polish (Israel) and the whole make-up and nail polish range in Iran. EM: Are you opening in any new countries in the near future? TE: We will be opening in Indonesia by the end of the year where we are currently in the process of finalizing registration.



COSME TOKYO Visit & Source the World’s Highest Quality! COSME TOKYO 2018 returns in January 24 (Wed) – 26 (Fri) (Makuhari Messe, Japan) gathering 1,0002 exhibitors and 30,0002 visitors from worldwide. COSME TOKYO is Japan’s largest1 cosmetics trade show launched in 2012 and has been growing as a must-attend show for everyone in cosmetics industry. By welcoming 2 new concurrent shows, INNER BEAUTY TOKYO 2018 and 1st Health & Beauty Goods Expo [January], COSME TOKYO 2018 will be much larger and more international where all aspects of beauty industry gather at once. This will be the most attractive venue for those who are looking for beauty products from Japan & Asia. Why not visit and source beauty products for your new lineups at COSME TOKYO 2018?

Experience the latest highquality Japanese Cosmetics The most attractive feature of the show is Japanese cosmetics. COSME TOKYO 2018 gathers a remarkable lineup of Japanese cosmetics. Most Japanese cosmetics to be exhibited at COSME TOKYO 2018 cannot be found at any other exhibitions in the world. Generally, Japanese cosmetics are popular worldwide for high quality, reliability, cost performance, etc. However, there are much more products which are yet to be known outside Japan, especially products made by small-and-medium sized manufacturers. As the number of exhibitors including those companies will increase from the last edition, COSME TOKYO 2018 is the must-visit exhibition for international visitors looking for high quality Japanese cosmetics.


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Don’t miss the best sourcing venue of beauty products from Japan & Asia! COSME TOKYO 2018 will be held with 2 new concurrent shows. Newly launching INNER BEAUTY TOKYO 2018 is focused on beauty & health foods, and 1st Health & Beauty Goods Expo [January] will gather beauty care goods. Based on the foundation that COSME TOKYO and COSME Tech have been attracting whole cosmetics industry, those 4 shows will cover not only cosmetics but whole beauty industry in 2018 show which will attract wider range of visitors.

expected numbers as of Sep. 2017, including co-held shows. “LARGEST” in reference to the exhibitor number of trade shows with the same concept.







HSA GROUP where beauty meets innovation From hair care to skin care: HSA introduces its latest breakthrough news

HSA Group is the European leader in the development of innovative products in the beauty industry. Established more than 30 years ago with its core business in hair color, the Italian family owned company extended to hair care and skin care, becoming a real marketing partner with a 360° approach to beauty. HSA offers a full-service partnership to marketers who strive to launch their own brands, and developed over 100 brands diffused in more than 90 countries. However, each product range has its own story, based on a specific concept. Research and Development laboratory works daily to find out innovative technologies, create highly effective formulas and develop revolutionary products. Innovation, quality and a solid know how make HSA a top player in the cosmetic industry.


In addition to providing private label product services, HSA also offers its own hair care brands - Nouvelle and Silky - plus the outstanding Eslabondexx, based on the innovative concept of preventive protection and home care anti-ageing therapy for hair. After the great success of Eslabondexx and Eslabondexx Color, HSA launched at Cosmoprof Bologna 2017 a new product, which can for sure be defined the most exciting news in the cosmetic industry since years. The company laboratory’s constant search for innovation gave birth to Eslabondexx Bleach, the bleaching powder that revolutionizes the concept of bleaching. Thanks to its strengthened Eslabondexx formula it allows several consecutive bleaching services in one day (if applied on healthy hair; up to three bleaching services), keeping the hair at its best.

The highest lightening power and maximum protection are hold in a single product: Eslabondexx Bleach can light up to seven tones while protecting and restructuring for incredibly blonde hair, that are at the same time healthy, resistant and stronger. Moreover, the Eslabondexx range for an “amazing blonde” also includes a collection of tonalising creams, Eslabondexx Hair Toners, available in six amazing nuances.


As far as skin care is concerned, great changes are occurring. The deep expertise in skincare allowed the company to extend its business from product development on behalf of third parties to the launch of its own skincare brands with state of the art formulas and striking marketing concepts. HSA Group Cosmetic Division, a new company branch completely dedicated to skin care, has been established and made its debut at Cosmoprof Bologna with outstanding own brands. Pollution Free is the complete anti-pollution range with Zeolite,

a volcanic origin mineral purifying and protecting the skin from polluting agents and impurities that every day build up on the epidermis surface causing dehydration, dark spots, skin ageing and damaging the skin. Dedicated to those having a dynamic lifestyle, but taking care of their outward appearance without compromising on products’ efficacy, Pollution Free uses the power of nature to contrast pollution effects: Zeolite purifies from fine dust, prevents polluting particles from accumulating in pores and removes impurities

from the skin, on top of having strong antioxidant action. The special mix of specific active ingredients also guarantees multiple benefits as hydration, nourishment and antioxidant effect. Moreover, Pollution Free range will become richer thanks to the introduction of two new products. Open Air Cream SPF15, protecting from UV rays and urban pollution, and Body Lotion, for a deep skin hydration, together with other Pollution Free products create the daily beauty routine for a regenerated, protected and hydrated skin.

Another novelty by HSA Group Cosmetic Division has been developed according to the same philosophy of Eslabondexx Hair. Elsabondexx Skin is the perfect skin care range for trendy women, who love design, fashion and follow all the latest trends, without giving up health and wellness. Eslabondexx Skin gives a hydrated and nourished skin thanks to Nio-Hydran technology, while giving a pleasant feeling of wellbeing with its agreeable scent: soft and fruity notes blend with warm and intense tones, embracing the skin with a fresh and delicate fragrance.


Breaking News InterCHARM BEAUTY EXPO KOREA 2017

23-25 November / Coex, Seoul

Reed partners with – to be powered by Reed Exhibitions has entered into a joint venture with Beauty Expo Korea, which is partnering with R X R u s s i a ’s InterCHARM to drive international expansion. PCA Signing Ceremony on 31st May, 2017

The next edition of the Korean trade fair will be held as InterCHARM Beauty Expo Korea on November 23-25 2017 in Seoul. Together the brands aim to provide a unique import-export business platform for international companies to expand in Korea’s booming perfumery and cosmetics market, which ranks 4th globally in terms of personal expenditure on cosmetics and beauty care products. Now in its 15th year, Beauty Expo Korea is one of the country’s largest trade shows for the cosmetics and beauty industry. InterCHARM is one of the world’s leading beauty shows, and the largest perfumery and cosmetics exhibition in Russia, CIS, Central and Eastern Europe.

Participation Guide

How the teams are collaborating InterCHARM Beauty Expo Korea 2017 is expected to gather 300 exhibitors and over 40,000 attendees from all over the world to do business, by drawing on InterCHARM’s international brand recognition, industry expertise and business networks in the following ways: • InterCHARM team in Moscow will conduct eDM campaign to its entire prospects database in Russia and pass enquiries to the Korean sales team to follow up. • InterCHARM sales agents network will be shared with the Korean team, and the team will work with agents & ISG to leverage the sales. • Cross-marketing on international advertisement, the InterCHARM website and show catalogues to increase exposure of the Korean show. • Russia/InterCharm team to help with promotion and marketing to international exhibitors, visitors, sponsors and conference delegates. • InterCHARM to provide expert advice on conference program/topics and help with recommending the speakers

• Application Deadline : 30 September 2017

Tel. +82-2-2284-0012 84

• Space Only : USD 2,500 per booth (9sqm) • Shell Scheme : USD 3,000 per booth (9sqm)


23-25 November Coex, Seoul

Tel +82-2-2284-0012

E-mail 85


mascara plus COSMETICS

a story of innovation and success

We interviewed David Chant, Mascara Plus CEO, and some of the company’s managers, to get to know better a business which in just a few years has conquered international markets

EXPORT MAGAZINE: What was the innovation that led you to start the company? DAVID CHANT: It was always in my vision to build up a company story, I think it was also in my DNA, my great-grandfather had a shoe factory in the South of Italy. In fact I’m not an American Indian, I’m American mixed, with some roots in Italy and Europe (Germany and Ireland Ed.’s note) my great-grandfather was born in Italy, my grandfather had a construction business in New York; as I say, to be an entrepreneur is something that I always wanted to do. My experience in the cosmetic sector, matured in companies such as Estée Lauder and L’Oréal, has always been in laboratories working on mascara, but in 2002 I decided to set up on my own, convinced that I could have brought something new to the mascara sector, which those years was not considered a priority for the private label manufacturers.


After using someone’s factory – they were producing shampoos – to produce mascaras, I tried very hard to get my own factory; it took longer than I thought, because I didn’t have all the necessary funds. It finally worked out in 2005, when I was able to get some machinery and a 120 sq. m. factory with a laboratory. And I was the boss! In 2008 I was able to have two facilities in Cernusco sul Naviglio and Pioltello, both just outside Milan, with a third place for logistics; finally, in January 2014, we went where we are based now, Inzago, near Milan. In the beginning, we were in a space of 2.400 sq. m., with 20 people. Now there are 100 of us and we are looking for a lot of new resources; our forecast this year is 19 ml euro, last year it was 11.4 ml. We occupy premises of 6,000 sq. m. with all the departments together, which of course makes it much more organized compared to the past.

EM: How all this could happen just in a few years? DC: It comes from a great focus on innovation; we got ready to have good products, good sales and marketing. Besides that, we have products that are beautiful and presentable and, very important, we have the software and the hardware, since we are the only ones who produce the brush and the bulk of mascara. We can do everything in-house and quickly, since we have research, production and control all in the same place. EM: Did you decide from the very beginning to be an international company? DC: It was certain. Our choice has been, instead of making a lot of products to service more markets, to make just one product, which is absolutely perfect, and to spread it all over the world. EM: Why did you choose Italy for your factory? DC: It wasn’t a real intention, it just happened to be here. And it’s the right place, our area is the centre of the cosmetics industry; clients know that there are good resources here, and as everybody knows the cosmetic products manufactured in Italy enjoy an excellent reputation everywhere. Our area could even be called the ‘Italian Cosmetics Valley’.

EM: Does Mascara Plus supply both manufacturers and brands? DC: Yes, we deal with both. EM: Where do you foresee a possible development for the future? In other product categories as well? DC: We have quite a lot of innovations for 2017 and 2018 in the pipeline. Some are patent pending, both in formulation and application. We’ll also be opening our activity to new product categories in the make-up family. Last year this represented 1% of our business, this year the forecast is for 7%. One of our most recent innovative products consists of some interesting brow applicators. EM: Does your company reflect your personality, in the sense that you are a citizen of the world and that’s why you like to do business with internationallyoriented companies? DC: Talking about my personality, I always need to do be active and do new things, otherwise I get nervous… or sleepy, one of the two! I love travelling and meeting different realities; I love Italy, and it’s also a pillar for my business, but I’m not afraid of going to new places. I love challenges…




GIACOMO MARCHETTI, R & D MANAGER EXPORT MAGAZINE: The Research & Development laboratory plays very important role in every manufacturing company. What is your R & D unit based on and how many people work in it? GIACOMO MARCHETTI: The unit has seven people and I am in charge of it. The two lab technicians who work with me have several years of experience in make-up, one of them with a previous experience into the raw materials sector, one of our main resources. Our curiosity and the strong collaboration with the materials’ suppliers means that we are constantly updated on the “formulation” news, making us able to give our products new performances and to be innovative on the market. EM: What are the strong points of Mascara Plus Cosmetics compared to competition, from the point of view of the formula and of the products? GM: As we have the complete cycle of production, both of the mascara and of the brushes in-house, we are continually in search of the formula-brushes combination; we are the only ones to give the client the finished product, following his specific requests. We have also recently been asked to supply a ‘natural’ type of mascara; although we are conscious that it is not possible at the moment to obtain a 100% natural mascara, we are getting ready to use raw materials in conformity with the Cosmos standards, to be able to satisfy this new demand from the market. EM: Have you any innovations in particular? GM: Without revealing any company secrets, I can tell you that our lab team is working with dynamism and curiosity on products other than mascara; for example make-up, with a continuous development of new formulations, colours and textures that, we are sure, will give us great satisfactions. For the packaging of the mascara as well, we are studying ideas that could offer special performances and new and innovative ways to communicate the product. C.S.

EXPORT MAGAZINE: The competence and professionalism of a private label manufacturer pass through quality and regulatory matters. How are they managed? MICHELA DE FRENZA: I am the manager of the procedural quality assurance part, helped by two other experts, one for the bulk part and the other for the finished product, who also give me support for the documentation part. Eight other people make up the team, which suggests that the company wants to give maximum importance to quality control, and that the incoming orders are constantly increasing. As the philosophy of Mascara Plus is to operate with competence and professionalism, our division guarantees, through attentive controls each individual article that is delivered to clients. Regulatory-related matters are managed daily by two specialists able to give full support and counselling to customer.

EM: What are the Worldwide certifications that guide the activity of Mascara Plus Cosmetics? MDF: We have all the most important certifications: GMP 22716, ISO 9001. With the new European regulation that has come into force, and which we respect in full, the standards have been raised, with greater attention to the product, especially in terms of safety. We are by default aligned to the European regulation on all markets, from the United States where 70% of our production goes (and where approval of the FDA is not required for our product category), to the Middle East and the Far East. We have just completed Halal certification, to be prepared to supply markets such as the Middle East, Indonesia and South-East Asia.





expertise at the service of brands

Almon is an Italian company, based in Milan, which offers its experience in the development and sale of fragrances and products for well-being to its clients

This new company has the objective of becoming an important player capable of offering a complete service, from creation to production and up to the distribution of fragrances. All this is concretized in a global approach to the world of licences, being able to be positioned in different sectors from masstige to selective and niche, depending on the licences acquired. Almon stands out for its ability to analyse and study in depth the identity of a brand making use of trusted collaborators with proven experience. Almon has become the licensee of the Carrera Jeans brand for the production and sale of fragrances and products in the perfumery sector. Carrera is an Italian company, founded in 1965 and based in Verona, which with more than five million pairs of jeans manufactured per year, is one of the main names in casual wear and design in Italy and the world. As Andrea Monelletti, executive board member of Almon with a good experience in the field of selective perfumery says, the partnership with Carrera Jeans has been in perfect harmony since the beginning. Both companies have in their DNA an enthusiasm to do and to experiment.


Knowledge of the brand at international level is also contributing to obtaining excellent results abroad as well. The design and the attention in the choice of materials which have contributed to creating the packaging reflect the tradition and the style of the brand. The bottle has a band in denim, both the bottle and the aluminium cap are personalized with the Carrera logo embossed on the surface. The men’s line comprises an Eau de Toilette natural spray in three sizes (40 ml, 75 ml and 125 ml), an after shave natural spray (125 ml), an after shave balm (75 ml), a deodorant spray (150 ml) and a body and hair shampoo (500 ml), as well as specific shaving products.

The fragrance belongs to the “oriental” family of perfumes, with top notes of Apple, Pineapple, Bergamot and Blackcurrant. The heart notes of Rose, Birch, Patchouli and Moroccan Jasmine add fascination to the fragrance, the base notes of Musk, Vanilla, Oak and Ambergris give an oriental something. The line for women, which presents a band in sand-coloured denim and a crimson aluminium cap, includes an Eau de Parfum natural spray (40 ml and 75 ml), a deodorant spray (150ml), a bath and shower cream (500 ml), a body lotion (300 ml) and a body cream in a jar (200ml). The female version is also characterized by an “oriental” fragrance, with top notes of Sicilian bitter orange, a heart of Damascus Rose and base notes of Vanilla, Almond, Tolu Balm, Tonka Bean and Sri Lankan Sandalwood.



The two new Carrera Jeans fragrances were also launched on the market in July. As in the previous ones, the tactile and visual impact continue to be fundamental, and the denim is transformed into a camouflage fabric with bolder shades for him and more fashion colours for her. There is also the pluckiness in the outer packaging, where a carbon look and camouflage marry perfectly. Carrera Jeans Camouflage also completes an olfactory study started with the previous fragrances. The Camouflage male fragrance is characterized by citrus top notes, followed by a heart of Lavender, Jasmine and Rose, expressing all its masculinity in the base notes of Amber, Vetiver and Sandalwood. The Carrera Camouflage female fragrance, belonging to the floralcitrus family, opens with notes of Tangerine, Grapefruit, Pineapple, Strawberry and Passion Fruit. It then releases all its femininity in the heart notes of Jasmine, Red Berries, Lily of the Valley, Peony and Vanilla Orchid, offering an unexpected intensity in the base notes of Musk, Woods and Oak Moss.


October 2nd - 4th 2017

Both the Carrera Jeans Camouflage fragrances are sold in the Eau de Parfum 75 ml natural spray version. The acquisition of new world licences has also seen the concretization of the first launch of the fragrances under the Roberta brand, the long-established lingerie brand of the Pompea group, one of the main players on the Italian market and present in more than 50 countries in the world. The first launch, Roberta Girl, has privileged a young, Pop approach, characterized by floral and fruity fragrances where colour and a desire to experiment have given rise to a line of perfumed waters (95ml and 200 ml), shower gel (400 ml) and body lotions (400 ml) which could attract the so-called “millennials” but also the historical consumers of the lingerie brand. The domestic market has already given the first positive results and we are counting on extending this success on some foreign markets, for which we have already received some requests. Almon continues looking for new brands and form this point of view a new licence with an international outlook has been acquired.

The concept on which Almon is already working and which will see the light in 2018 will not involve only the world of fragrances but will also touch on related sectors, such as fashion and accessories to create an important and homogeneous brand identity. In this regard and in order to continue in the quest for reliable distributors that fully embrace Almon projects and share its values, helping the company lay the foundations for current and future development, Almon will be in Cannes in October to present all the new products in the making for 2018.

You are cordially invited to visit us Hotel JW Marriott Cannes - “Prestige Suite” 50 Boulevard de la Croisette, Cannes - France - e-mail:



China Beauty expo 2017 rewriting the records

the leading beauty event in asia and the leading marketplace for China

In its 22nd edition, China Beauty Expo reaffirms its leading position as a B2B Beauty event in Asia and the leading marketplace for China. China Beauty Expo (hereinafter referred as CBE) is a powerful platform supported by the presence of 3,017 exhibitors from 34 countries this year. With more than 500 foreign exhibitors and 10,000 brands, for anyone serious in the beauty industry, CBE is a must attend event. It’s the ideal trading, sharing and learning industry platform in Asia, covering the whole industry chain from Ingredients and formulation, raw materials, packaging, machinery and equipment, OEM/ODM/OBM, and finished products for the retails market and the professional lines. CBE occupies 250,000sqm of exhibition area, with 17 halls and over 50 outdoor tents with ten thousands of trendy new products from around the globe and more than 50 features and conferences


during the 3-day exhibition. CBE 2017 attracted 412,500 professional buyers from 80 regions and countries hailing from all networks, including department stores, shopping malls, supermarkets, specialty and chain stores, beauty

salons, nail salons, SPA, hair salons, plastic surgery hospitals, e-commerce, manufactories, supply chain desion makers and purchasers, R&D researchers, packaging designers, design agencies and so on, breaking the record of the global beauty shows.


Quote by Ying Sang - Deputy General Manager CBE “China Beauty Expo, Recognised for its dynamic growth, the show offers opportunities to Chinese and International exhibitors to meet qualified local and international buyers. We have created an unique program of conferences and networking opportunities to federate the worldwide beauty industry. The mission of the show is to reaffirm every year its leadership in Asia and to federate global industry players from manufacturing to finish products and distribution.” Quote by Claudia Bonfiglioli International Director CBE: “Since Informa acquired the show in 2014, China Beauty Expo has reached a tremendous growth from 100,000sqm to 250,000sqm. China Beauty Expo this year occupied the total space of the exhibition center. It is the largest beauty event in the world in terms of size. With 1000 + exhibitors in Cosmetech, the Beauty Supply chain sector of CBE is now offering an incredible variety of business solutions. CBE is also the world’s largest beauty supplier show! “ France was the Country of Honour this year with a broader program bringing world leading groups such as LVMH, L’Oréal, Chanel and the IFSCC International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists. Part of these initiatives Musée international de la PARFUMERIE. miP-Grasse and the innovative Hall N5 where Trends and beauty influential partners will display new trends like Colours cosmetics and Fragrances.

THE LEADING BEAUTY SUPPLY CHAIN PLATFORM COSMETECH With more than 1,000 Beauty Suppliers, the COSMETECH section welcomed leaders of supply chain such as DUPONT (USA), INTERCOS (IT), FIABILA (FR), COSMAX (KR), TOLY (GE), WEKERLE (GE), ESSEL (CHN), KOLMAR (KR), KEYSTONE (Holland), APTAR (FR), COSON (USA), HCT (USA), B- KOLOR (IT), French Cosmetic Workshop (FR), BARALAN (IT), ALBEA (FR), ELCOS (KR), YONWOO (KR). Visitors to COSMETECH included beauty companies and manufactories decision makers such as purchase managers, product development, R&D and laboratories to meet more than 1,000 international and local suppliers. As part of COSMETECH, CBE also featured the Beauty Ingredient Formulation Forum, in its 3rd edition with a great program designed in partnership with IFSCC (International Federation of the Societies of Cosmetic Chemists) led by Claudie Willemin, physicschemistry and formulation expert in skin care applied research in R&D. The congress “Advanced Science in Beauty” was a full day program with speakers form premium brands and formulators as per the attached programm. “Advanced Science in Beauty” welcomed more than 500 R&D professional visitors.

BUYERS DELEGATIoNS IN ASIA As for the professional buyers, CBE expanded its influence in ten countries in Asia, cooperating with ACA (ASEAN Cosmetics Association), Thai Cosmetic Manufacturers Association, FMM- MCTIG (Malaysian Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry), Perkosmi (Indonesian Cosmetics Association) to attract Asian brand owners, scientific researchers, purchasers, importers and retailers to participate in CBE 2017.



 Beauty Ingredients & Formulation Forum (BI&F) – Spreading the Cutting-edge Technology & Scientific Innovation Undertaken by IFSCC and SDCTA, BI&F discussed key issues and concerns from around the world, such as ‘Skin aging and environmental factors’ by Managing Director of Biology & Women’s Beauty of CHANEL Research & Technology and ‘Skin regeneration, a new cosmetic approach’ by LVMH R&D Director, attracting the attention of plenty of Chinese and other Asian cosmetics scientists and researchers. This forum included an interesting physical experience when the Manager of Biological Evaluation and Method from L’Oréal Research and Innovation Center played various natural sounds to demonstrate the connection between hair and tunes, a new research approach that has been undertaken. One member of the audience, a R&D manager, praised this conference because of its valuable insight about the future development of Cosmetics. As part of COSMETECH “Beauty Supply Chain Summit Asia “hosted industry leaders as Jala, Intercos, L’Oréal, Shisheido, Chanel, Capsum, Mintel and Beautystreams, as they shared new updates in packaging and trends. With the theme of Global Technology, China Trend, CBE Beauty Supply Chain Summit gathered famous cosmetics groups and thousands of supply chain enterprises as well as decision makers in researching, marketing and purchasing departments from Chinese and ASEAN supply chain companies. The summit was a platform to share global technology innovation resources while promoting new technologies.


50+ ONSITE ACTIVITIES & CONFERENCES An increase of internatinonal exhibitors and qualified international distributors and retailers is the natural growth of the show. The international increase came from Germany, France, Korea, Israel, Japan, Thailand and Taiwan, which represented more than 30% of net area this year. To support international businesses, the organizer has created activities to federate international buyers.  Business Meetings Asia – Deal and Networking between International Brands and Asian Importers More than 400 international brands representing skin care, make-up, fragrance, organic products and so on from France, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Israel, Thailand, Japan and Asian importers such as Sogo Indonesia, MEDiCARE Vietnam, Ltd., Beyond Star, LongSight Trading from China, Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia attended the event. The matchmaking program offered a platform for the international brands who want to explore and enter into the target markets in China or other Asian countries to establish new contacts.  Beyond Beauty Trends Asia (BBTrends) – Epitome of Cosmetics Fashion and Trend BBTrends invited the leading elites from companies including Centdegres, Firmenich, Capsum, Essenzia, Malherbe Design, Beautystreams, BETC Design, Euromonitor and others to share trends in cosmetics, fashion, makeup, nail, perfume packaging and retail designing from the perspectives of consumers. Some topics like ‘Exploring

opportunities and development trends of color cosmetics in Asia Pacific’, ‘Retail, Extension of Your Strategy’, ‘Textures and Shades – Day and Night Light in Perfume Packaging’ attracted most of visitors.

FASHION, DESIGN AND INNOVATION Persistence and Innovation might summarize CBE this year. China Beauty Expo has persisted in offering quality service for the whole cosmetics industry. Meanwhile, in the wake of industrial development, CBE has always innovated in its events, design and concepts. In 2017, CBE integrated concepts into two new halls – N4 Hall & N5 Hall.  N4 - Cosmetics Creative Design Gallery to highlight trends in COSMETECH With the concept of Creative Design Gallery and in partnership with creative companies, CBE integrated design exhibition, modern science and modern internet thinking in N4 to build it as a green, environmental friendly and healthy beauty ecosphere.  N5 – FASHION DISTRICT of Beauty Trends CBE and Centdegrés allied to build a never-seen before platform: N5 Fashion District. Based on beauty innovations that inspired visitors to challenge brands and discover what the beauty industry had to offer in the future, N5 Hall was a place where brands like Firmenich, musée international de la PARFUMERIE.miP-Grasse, Capsum could express their creativity, ideas and visions through exceptional activities and experiences.

NEXT EDITIoN: CHINA BEAUTY EXPo 2018, 22-24 MAY 2018 The 23rd edition of CBE will once again be held in Shanghai New International Exhibition Center, from 22 - 24 May 2018. We are looking forward to welcoming more than 3,500 participating companies, with over 260,000sqm of exhibition space. In addition, CBE will highlight Cosmetech in 2018 which is a worldwide beauty supply chain platform covering ingredients & formulation, raw materials, packaging, OEM/ ODM/OBM, machinery and equipment.




VALERIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Having spent over twenty years working with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances, Valerie has extensive knowledge and practical experience of their supply, distribution and retail, pertinent commercial practices and consumer habits on a global and local basis. Her expertise has been highly valued by multi-national organizations, SMEs, start-ups, privately owned companies and financial investors. Certified in Corporate Governance from INSEAD Business School, Valerie has the remarkable ability to successfully set the company’s strategic direction, often across diverse product markets and geographies, and monitor the firm’s risk profile. As a qualified Non-Executive Director who was awarded the prestigious Financial Times Post-Graduate Diploma, Valerie Kaminov is highly trained in corporate governance and is an experienced NED and Director enabling her to have an holistic understanding of boards. She advises both as a consultant and an NED. 
Valerie’s experience earned her a reputation with major players in the industry who hired her to establish them globally. Her expertise in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth has been highly valued by Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors. She is also dedicated to passing her knowledge along through a range of conferences and events. Valerie has been a guest speaker at the non-profit organization CEW’ Mentoring Services where leading executives offer insights into beauty industry issues and inspiration for professional growth. 
As the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) Master of Ceremony, Valerie organizes one of its kind conference in Europe, key global gathering for manufacturers, brand owners and distributors to come together and discuss the challenges facing the industry and their businesses by giving the attendees unlimited networking opportunities.

INDIA: A POTENTIAL GOLDMINE FOR FOREIGN BEAUTY BRANDS Expanding into a new market can be a successful way to leverage your core business for growth. However, believe me when I say, it takes a disciplined process to accurately assess the full potential of each growth opportunity. A bad bet can easily bog down your business in the blink of eye. With a growing economy that plans to see annual income triple by 2020, India is booming. Seeing numbers like these can make any foreign company jump at the idea of tapping into this ever-growing market. However, the Indian business culture is unlike any other around world and to thrive in this market, new entrants need to have a thorough understanding of the practical challenges they will face if they want to succeed there. So, below we have put together a few tips that will help you and your business navigate in clearer waters and avoid pitfalls when expanding into the Indian Market. An overview of the Indian Beauty Market India is one of the most populated countries on earth, with a staggering 1.21 billion inhabitants (1/6th of the world’s population). The economy, 4th largest in the world, is one of the fastest growing in the world with a current GDP growth rate of 7.5%. Today, there are about 450 million middle class consumers which more than the entire

population of the United States! The population is growing young, urban and rich with 55% of the population below 25 and 65% below 35. The purchasing power and disposable income of the Indian middle class is continually spiking, allowing for increased awareness and attention to grooming, glamour and presentation as well as an inclination towards luxury brands and premium products. Higher disposable incomes, peer pressure and ever-increasing exposure by the media is leading customers to spend more on higher-value services such as manicures, pedicures, facials, hair modification treatments and massages, just to name a few. The number of independent working women is on the rise and men are emerging, creating a huge category for salon, spa services and cosmetics. About 38% of women visit the salon twice a month and 61% of men visit it once a month.

REPORT According to Euromonitor, the Indian beauty market value is estimated at $950 million and experts say that it will grow to $2.68 billion by 2020. In the coming years, the annual growth for this market is estimated to be between 15% and 20%, a growth twice as fast as that of the United States and European beauty markets. This incredible expansion has been driven mainly by product innovations, continued demand for naturally positioned products, premiumisation and consumer willingness to move out of their comfort zones and experiment with new products. India is currently the 10th fastest growing market at global level in the Beauty & Wellness sector and is growing at CAGR of 18.6%. The sector is thriving on the raise in affluent and middle-class population that has started considering beauty and wellness as a necessity rather than a luxury. The increased emphasis on a holistic wellbeing with people’s desire to look good and young are other key motivators for the industry. The rejuvenation segment is no longer perceived as a mere luxury service but it is now acknowledged as an essential tool to de-stress. The make-up market has been growing at a strong pace (+20.9% in 2016) and has reached $546.3 million. In 2020, the market is forecast to have a value of $1,258.2 million, meaning a total increase of 130.3% since 2015, highlighting lip make-up as the largest segment of the makeup market (57.9% of the market’s total value). India, along with China, has been leading by far the growth in the Asian colour cosmetics sector. Key drivers of this incredible progress are: rising disposable incomes, high population growth and rise in consciousness about appearance. The Indian make-up market grew by 20.9% in 2015 to reach a value of $546.3 million. Skincare and fragrances have also experienced strong and steady growth since 2011. Over the next five years, experts say this trend is expected to continue, encouraging even more newcomers than ever before. Indians’ appetite for both skincare and fragrances has been fuelled by the rise of the middle classes, increased incomes, technological developments within the industry and the increasing health, wellness and appearance awareness. As urbanization continue to rapidly increase, Indians are leading busier lives, prompting them to look for more convenient skincare products in order to save time. Female fragrances are the largest segment of the fragrances market in India, accounting for 46.7% of the market’s total value.

on purchasing decisions. Beauty products have become extremely popular. Many international brands that entered the market in the late 90s were offering premium products to an urban clientele who could afford it. Today, beauty is becoming universal and there is a demand from not only the upper classes.

International companies such as Unilever, L’Oréal, Colgate-Palmolive and Coty are big players in the industry. Unilever is the leader in the make-up market (25.6% market shares) whereas Coty continues to outdo competitors in the fragrance market (30% market shares). Other prominent international players with a strong presence in the market include Gillette India, Johnson & Johnson and Procter & Gamble. Domestic players have been trying to play catch up by tapping into new growing trends such as natural, herbal and Ayurveda products. Key consumption patterns 1. Indian are driven by cultural traditions. 2. Mass-market represents the biggest untapped opportunity for foreign brands. 3. Indians have a strong appetite for localized products. 4. The cosmetic market remains a gold mine for newcomers. 5. Consumers are increasingly educated and informed. International brands can’t simply enter the Indian market, offering the same products and ranges as they do back home and expect to be successful. In fact, Indian tastes and needs strongly differ from Western ones. Brands must adapt their offerings to satisfy local styles. Triumph is, in part, being able to create suitable products. The Indian beauty market is one-of-a-kind. Cultural traditions are tremendously important and Bollywood has a powerful influence

In addition to this, disposable incomes in big cities are jumping to record high and Indians are spending more and more money on beauty products. Expanding out of urban areas will be a strategic manoeuvre for mass-market brands offering lower price points. Improvements in links with the cities by roads and telecommunication will allow brands to reach out to the people in villages and small towns more easily. It’s no secret that Indian consumers are becoming more and more aware on the various beauty products and brands available on the market. Customers are looking for both quality and value for money and the rise of online shopping is reshaping the retail landscape (62% of urban young consumers have prefer to buy beauty products online). E-commerce is rapidly growing, accounting for the strongest growth in retail sales. Online sales, including those of beauty products, are expected to quadruple over the next five years due to the increasing use of smartphones and will ease up the process of reaching customers in more rural areas. Online shopping is extremely convenient, as lifestyles are getting busier. Indians no longer want to have to visit numerous stores before finding the right product to suit their needs. Moreover, Indian consumers are becoming extremely brand conscious with a readiness to try new brands and products. As they become better informed, they are embracing international cosmetics brands regardless of higher prices compared to domestic brands. Over 68% of young adults feel that using grooming product boosts their confidence. The increased desire to look good, combined with a young population provides astounding opportunities for new brands to break through.



As people become more brand-conscious, companies are beginning to use the services of famous brand Ambassadors such as Bollywood megastars and cricket players, helping them to build a strong brand loyalty. Finally, the behaviour of the male consumer has been shifting considerably over the last few years. Men are becoming more indulgent and discerning and are slowly moving from unisex products towards gender specific products for maximum results. Surprisingly enough, Indian men who fall in the age group of 18 to 25 spend more money on grooming and personal care products than women. It is estimated that today about 25 to 35% of total salon business comes from men’s treatment. Challenges and how to overcome them At International Luxury Brand Consultancy, we know that expanding into a new market can be a tough decision, especially if you are navigating in unknown waters. We work with our clients so that we can provide them with clarity backed up with years of expertise and knowledge. With many years of experience under our belt, we can help you avoid pitfalls that may be encountered along the way. Of course, the Indian beauty market offers a myriad of enticing opportunities to newcomers but needless to say that it is a highly complex market to penetrate due to various factors, both endogenous and exogenous. It is crucial for brands to be fully aware of the different entry barriers and to understand what is at stake before attempting to enter any market. India is no exception, far from it.


Entry barriers include: • Fierce established competition • Complexity of the retail sector • Heavy investment needed • Tough regulation Newcomers will have to face fierce established competition with widely recognized companies such as Unilever and L’Oréal, who all have strong market positions. Because they benefit from scale economies, large international brands have the ability to compete effectively on prices, making it hard for new entrants to strive especially if they move into a more concentrated market segment. In addition to this, big players benefit from much larger marketing budgets and are able to utilize the services of celebrities such as Aishwarya Rai (L’Oréal) and Kareena Kapoor (Unilever) to boost the appeal of their brands. Whilst on the same topic, substantial capital is required for investment in production, distribution and advertising, which are crucial for success in this complex market. However, due to the high sales volumes of make-up products and low product differentiation, it is common for companies to enter the lower end of the make-up market. One potential method of establishing a new brand is though celebrity endorsement, but this too can be very costly for new players. Today, big international companies are the main manufacturers in the market. They invest heavily in both product innovation and the building of brand portfolios. Newcomers must be able to persuade stores to stock their products. However, major retailers are aware of their importance in the distribution chain and may be reluctant to displace

existing well-established brands for new ones. When entering the skincare market, new entrants are required to establish production facilities, demanding significant capital outlay on machinery and factories. Skincare products are generally sold in high volume to a large number of consumers, and the reasonably high level of consolidation seen in most skincare markets suggests that scale economies in manufacturing are likely to be important to the margins of players, acting as another entry barrier for potential new entrants. However, despite the importance of economies of scale, it can be possible to start small by focusing on a niche market. The growing market for male skincare is one example of a potential entry point. The use natural skincare products provides new entrants with an opportunity to enter a niche market but such products can be expensive to produce and leaders such as Dove are already well established in this sector, deterring new entrants from venturing in such waters. New entrants may be able to start on a small scale, operating within a niche, such as makeup with anti-ageing components. However, product testing and research would be both time-consuming and costly. In addition, new entrants will need to persuade stores to stock their products, and major retailers aware of their importance in the distribution chain, may be unwilling to risk displacing existing brands for the sake of new ones. The Indian retail sector is especially complex because it is both organized and unorganized. Unorganized retail format is extremely popular while the organized one is a lot smaller. Traditional family run stores and small shops constitute a majority of the market and it is estimated that over 95% of retail in India is done through the unorganized channel. There is a huge potential for growth in the organized retail sector leaving big untapped opportunities for new players. Shopper Stop (68 outlets), Lifestyle (57 outlets), Pantaloons (28 outlets), Sephora (8 outlets), and Parcos (54 outlets) are among the major organized retailers in India. In India, regulation is heavy. The government legislation covers all aspects of the market, from labelling, to testing methods, to safety. This is mainly due to the fact that in the past, a lack of regulations led to counterfeit cosmetics flooding the market. Cosmetics production must comply with the Drugs and Cosmetic Act 1940 and Rules 1945 (D&C act).


The latter requires all import of cosmetic products to be registered. Labels (both inside and outside) need to show the name of the product, name of the manufacturer and address. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) monitors the fragrance and is also responsible for regulating worldwide legislative trends and keeping check on health problems related to fragrance usage (e.g. allergies, asthma, etc.) As you might be aware, fragrance formulas are treated as “trade secrets” and manufactures are not obliged to reveal them, even to regulatory agencies. Nevertheless, products must meet environmental and safety standards and this can pose a serious threat to newcomers. In fact, introducing a new fragrance on the market can cost up to US$100 million and maintaining a good reputation can be just as expensive. Established players have developed and acquired extensive portfolios of such products, backed by large marketing and advertising budgets. Newcomers will have to have a consequent budget in order to be able to compete with such big brands and win the hearts of the Indian customers. India’s fragrance industry is rapidly growing yet sales are considerably lower than in the West. Most of Indian consumers still prefer traditional scent of Oud and Attar; scents that have been used in the entire Eastern world for thousands of years. This might be problematic for fragrance companies wanting to enter the Indian market.

To counter this problem, many fragrance retailers have adapted their offerings to the tastes of Indian consumers and introduced a number of Ouds under their brand name (e.g. L’Autre by Lancôme, Y M7 Oud Absolu by YSL). In addition to this, Indian consumers are paying more and more attention to what comes directly in contact with their skin. Prevention of skin irritations has given rise to natural ingredients or at least products free from parabens and aluminium or alcohol. Indians prefer to use products made using natural ingredients (e.g. aloe vera, tulsi, neem, lemon, honey, etc.). They have used these products for generations and perceive them to be of superior quality. Hence, manufacturers are introducing more exclusively natural skincare and cosmetics ranges to attract these discerning consumers.

The threat of substitution for fragrances is very strong. In fact, fragrances used to be considered luxury products. Even though this trend is rapidly changing, many personal hygiene products provide a fragrance. The low price of such products compared to that of fine fragrances greatly increases the threat of substitution. Last but not least, counterfeit goods cause great threat and cost the industry billions in lost revenues, especially for fragrance. The major issue is that clear imitation of a particular fragrance can make it hard to differentiate between the counterfeit good and the real one. Ebay and Flipkart are among the online marketplaces that poses the greatest danger because it is extremely hard to filter between genuine and counterfeit goods, as there is no guarantee that the picture you see online is an actual picture of the fragrance bottle or cosmetic you’ll actually get. Moreover, flea markets, street strands and bargain stores abundantly sell fake perfumes and cosmetics. Expanding into the Indian market can be extremely tough for many reasons, one being the highly complex structure of this market and in turn, the country. Many brands avoid entering this market altogether because the stakes are high. High import duty and taxes on beauty products, lack of skilled technicians, high attrition rates of staff, low standard of living and spending capacity, high income inequality, value for money mind-set that does not promote splurging money are among the numerous challenges foreign beauty brands will have to overcome. However, believe me when I say that India is a potential goldmine and one to watch in the near future. Of course, it is no easy task to succeed but with the right strategic plan and the adequate partner, India could definitely be your next eldorado.

For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand into different markets such as India, please contact us on or visit our website at 99


BELLAOGGI beauty from Italy for all women Interview with Adriano Ripari, Export Manager of Bellaoggi

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Bellaoggi is a brand that is now unquestionably asserting itself as a herald of Italian style in the world. What are the roots of this brand? ADRIANO RIPARI: Bellaoggi is a project that comes from afar, form a Neapolitan entrepreneur, Erminio Stabile, who dreamt of taking Italian beauty into the world. After the first timid attempts, but already full of passion and a great desire to accomplish, the brand was gradually brought into focus and was gradually perfected, becoming what it is todays. The turning-point came when the second generation of the family, represented by two young brothers, joined the company and the elder of the two, Francesco took over the organization and the marketing while the younger, Roberto, started to deal with the sales and distribution in Italy.


EM: How did the generational change influence the development of the brand? AR: Inevitably, the young age of the sons, together with a new enthusiasm, from the entrepreneurial point of view, brought a surge of energy and ideas which have gradually merged with the original idea of the brand, creating a perfect association of Italian tradition and technological innovation. EM: Which changes have taken place in the company following these changes? AR: The growth of the company has been, since then, constant and studded by important results from the point of view of acceptance of the brand by various markets. In Italy the development has led us to having today some 2000 points of sale with the presence of the most important distribution chains and abroad, in many new countries.

In addition, the company has seen a constant positive evolution for the farsighted choice of the ownership, first to be surrounded by successful people with great experience and, at the same time, to rely on in-house staff who have a degree of competence and reliability on average above that of even more prestigious companies. They are the motor of Bellaoggi. EM: What are the concepts that have guided this evolution? AR: There are essentially two guidelines for the development of the brand: the first is to offer a high quality product at an affordable price. The possibility for women to be able to have a range of products of quality, that are attractive and functional at a price that allows them to make a purchase without thinking too much about it‌ well, that is really priceless. And this is what Bellaoggi does. The second is that of not giving into the temptation to making products of a lower quality in order to have a lower price; this is the challenge. Excellent quality at an affordable price.

EM: So the product is at the centre of everything? AR: Always and at any cost. For us it is like a mantra, all our efforts converge on a sole objective offering the Bellaoggi woman products that re increasingly attractive and performing. We invest a great deal in looking for the right packaging and the most communicative graphics, as well as, obviously, leading quality in the formulations. EM: In the past few years, Bellaoggi has grown constantly both in Italy and abroad. In your opinion, what are the reasons for this growth? AR: I personally believe that the coherence, as far as the product is concerned, is the key to the success of the Bellaoggi brand. The coherence with the principles we talked about earlier, but above all coherence in the offer of the product. Our products follow a logic thread both chromatically and from the point of view of the shapes.


A Bellaoggi product is immediately recognizable and transmits this coherence to the point of sale that offers it as well, this is why many foreign distributors come to us.

From left: Roberto, Erminio, Francesco

Bomb! 24h: a bestseller by Bellaoggi in a long-lasting version


Attrazione Mat: extra-matte pigmenting lipstick

Mat Affair: liquid lipstick, triple matte, full coverage and ultra long-lasting

EM: Dealing with export, we are very interested in understanding your positioning and the development you expect in this sector, what can you tell us? AR: It is abroad that we have achieved the most significant growth in terms of percentage, a sign that the internationality of the brand is now recognized and appreciated. We are now present in many countries and each year we open in new ones: this year, for example, Morocco, Indonesia, Saudi Arabia and others that are currently registering the products. We do everything we can to satisfy our distributors and we try to understand their needs and differences. Producing stands that can be adapted to the different markets and communicate better and better is one of our priorities, and at the moment we are completing the project of a new stand which, through its flexibility, will allow us to open in countries that before were not very accessible. Then there is always the product, in the end that is what counts. Women like Bellaoggi it is of quality and it has the right price. This is something that is understood all over the world and everyone can appreciate the Italian style that accompanies our brand.




USEFUL ADDRESSES Acqua di Portofino Blue Pollack Fabi - Hugh Parsons Panama - Pineider - Riva

Profumitalia s.r.l. Via A. Costa, 2 - I-20131 Milano tel. +39/02-45375660 -

Acampora Profumi

Bruno Acampora Profumi B.A.P. s.r.l. Via G. Filangieri, 72 I-80121 Napoli tel. +39/081.401701 - fax +39/081.414162

Acqua di Genova Acqua di Portofino - Bruno Bozzini Contessa di Castiglione

Intercosma West Via Luigi Canepa, 2 - I-16165 Genova - Italy tel. 039-010/803808 - fax 039-010/804314 -

Air-Val Beverly Hills Fragrances

Air-Val Int. s.a. C/Miguel Servet, 27 E-08850 Gava (Barcelona) tel. 34-93/6355335 - fax 34-93/6629806

Alyson Oldoini Parfums

Luciano Oldoini s.r.l. V.le Geno 10 - I-22100 Como Show-room: Via Montenapoleone, 21 I-20122 Milano

Ancorotti Cosmetics

Antiqua Firenze - IO•KO

Ancorotti Cosmetics s.r.l. Via del Commercio, 1 I-26013 Crema (CR) tel. +39/0373-876811.21 - fax + 39/0373-876811 Enzo Galardi Via Ilio Barontini 22 I-50018 Scandicci (FI)

Ars Mirabile - CBN M Masterpiece

S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. Via della Liberazione, 56 I-20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) tel. +39-02/98280925 - fax +39-02/98280975


Giufra S.r.l. Via Veneto, 152 - I-06059 Todi (PG) tel. 075.8987455 - fax 075.8987691

Axis - Hoops - Elanzia Esprit de Versailles - Mercedes Monaco - Yujin

INCC Group 85, avenue de Saint Cloud F-78000 Versailles tel. +33/1-39670671 - fax + 33/1-39670672 www.inccgroup-parfums-com


Artdeco Cosmetic Group Gaussstrasse 13 D-85757 Karlsfeld tel. 49/8131-390100 - fax 49/8131 390129

Aubade - Montana

Parfums Montana - Empire of Scents 4, Place Wagram - F-75017 Paris tel +33-1/42650072 - fax +33-1/42650074

Alessandro Dell’Acqua - Missoni Moschino - John Richmond Joseph Abboud - Naj Oleari

Euroitalia s.r.l. Via G. Galilei, 1 - I-20040 Cavenago Brianza (MI) tel. 39-02/95916.1 - fax 39-02/95916500

Amarena Bella Oggi

Eurostyle s.p.a. I-80035 Nola - Interporto di Nola, Lotto D Blocco 4, Mod. 407/408 tel. +39-081/5108427 - fax +39-081/3158162 -

Blumarine - Dsquared2 Pomellato - Trussardi

ITF s.p.a. - Angelini Group Strada Provinciale, 25 - Km. 2,8 - I-26900 Lodi tel. +39-0371/4001 - fax +39-0371/400227


Garden Cosmetics Via Pigafetta, 20 I-28100 Novara


CALE’ s.r.l. Via S.Maria Podone, 5 - I-20123 Milano tel. 039/02-76002494 – fax 039/02-76009407 -

Carla Fracci

Carla Fracci Via Morosini, 30 - I-20135 Milano tel. 39-02/54063272 - fax 39-02/54189605


Parfums Caron 99, rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré - F-75008 Paris tel. +331/34235450 – fax +331/34235451 -


Almon srl Viale Sondrio, 7 - 20124 Milano - Italy tel. +39 02 84086374 - fax +39 02 84086354 e-mail: -


Collistar s.p.a. Via Pirelli, 19 - I-20124 Milano tel. +39-02/677503 - fax +39-02/6775454

Costume National

Beauty San s.p.a. Via Rimini, 37 - I-59100 Prato tel. +39-0574/43891 - fax +39-0574/438940

Coverderm Covermark

Farmeco Head Office: 11 Ag. Glykerios Str. - GR-11147 Athens, Greece tel. +30-20/2131701 - fax +30-20/2136036 Branch Office: Strada 6 Palazzo P1 Milano Fiori - I-20089 Rozzano (MI) tel. +39-02/89200150/167 - fax +39-02/89200371

diego dalla palma diego dalla palma RVB Lab

Cosmetica s.r.l. Via S. Carlo 28 I-40023 Castel Guelfo (BO) tel. +39-0542/670911 - fax +39-0542/670911


L’Erbolario s.p.a. V.le Milano, 74 - I – 26900 Lodi tel. +39/0371-4911 - fax + 39/0371-491411


Cosval s.p.a. V.le delle Industrie 10/5 - I – 20020 Arese (MI) tel. +39/02 935 80 479 - fax +39/02 935 81 022


Lubin 3, rue du Roule - F-75001 Paris tel: +33-1/40677009 - fax +33-1/45021316

The Merchant of Venice - Police Replay - Zippo - Manila Grace Blauer USA - Pino Silvestre Monotheme - I Profumi di d’Annunzio

Mavive S.p.A. Via Altinia, 298/B I-30173 Venezia (Dese) tel. 39-041/5417771 - fax 39-041/5417798


MI-in Paris 102, rue des Poissonniers - F-75018 Paris tel. 33/6-65299995 –


Ars Parfum GmbH D-50667 Koeln - Komodierstrasse 56-58 tel. + 49-221914088-0 - fax +49-221914088-10


Parfums Molinard 60, boulevard Victor Hugo F-06130 Grasse tel. +334-92423322 - fax +334-89123068 -

Morgan - Salvador Dalì

Cofinluxe 6, Rue Anatole de la Forge F-75017 Paris tel. +33-1/55377172 - fax +33-1/46229827

Nesti Dante

Nesti Dante s.r.l. Via della Molina, 39 - I-50010 S.Donnino (FI) tel. +39-055/8739401/2 - fax 39-055/8739768


Orlane 12-14, Rond Point des Champs Elysées F-75008 Paris tel +33-1/44357200 - fax +33-1/44357280


Paglieri s.p.a. S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 - I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 - fax +39-0131/6186663

Exclusive division: Braccialini - Byblos - Gandini Luciano Soprani - Transvital Prestige division: Australian - Bionsen La Gazzetta dello Sport - Lola Looney Tunes - Renato Balestra Rockford

Eurocosmesi Via Gobetti, 4 I-40050 Funo di Argelato (BO) tel. 39-051/6649238 fax 39-051/6649248

Parfums du Château de Versailles

CFFC - Conservatoire Français des Fragrances et Cosmétiques 12-14 Rond-Point Des Champs Élysées F-75008 - Paris tel.: +33-1-53531631 - fax: +33-1-53531400 -

Franck Olivier

Sodip 21, Boulevard Montmartre- F-75002 Paris - France tel. +33-1/40262020 - fax +33-1/42210888

Parfums Pergolèse Paris


Fedua Cosmetics Via Moretto 27 - I-25122 Brescia tel. +39/030-2590833 -

Parfums Pergolèse Paris 59, Rue De Miromesnil - F-75008 Paris Tel. +33-(0)1/53581402 or 1435


Laboratoires Filorga 2-4 rue de Lisbonne - F-75008 Paris tel. +33 1 42939400 – fax + 331 42937965 -

Laboratoires Dr. N G Payot 10, boulevard du Parc - F-92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine tel. +331/55625454 -

Pupa Miss Milkie

Micy’s Company s.p.a. Via De Gasperi, 22 - I-23880 Casatenovo (LC) tel. +39-039/92341 - fax +39-039/89205859


Aquolina, Baldinini Paglieri 1876 Pink Sugar

Selectiva s.p.a. S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 - fax +39-0131/6186663

Giorgio Jäneke


Armand Basi - Angel Schlesser Custo - Joaquín Cortés Mandarina Duck - Yekipé

IDESA-Angelini Group Via Augusta, 59-9 - E-08006 Barcelona tel. +34-93/2920891 - fax +34-93/2176881

Giorgio Jäneke s.r.l. I-20050 Veduggio (MI) tel. +39-0362/911010 a.r. - fax +39-0362/911100

Rancé & C. s.r.l. Via Lombardini, 10 - I-20143 Milano tel. +39-02/58100855 - fax +39-02/89401058

Gli Elementi

Art & Fragrance SA Bühlstrasse 1 - CH-8125 Zollikerberg - Switzerland Direct +41-43/4994532 - Phone +41-43/4994500 fax +41-43/4994502

GLI ELEMENTI s.r.l. Via Domenico Cimarosa, 3 I-20144 Milano –


Alain Delon - Jaguar - Lalique Nikki Beach - Parfums Grès Ultrasun

Officina Profumeria Sarda s.r.l. I-07041 Alghero (SS) tel. + 39/340 3872516 infor@officinaprofumeriasarda

Hello Kitty

Beauty & Care AG Hinterbergstrasse 26 - CH-6330 Cham tel. +41-41/783 8688 - fax +41-41/783 8687

Salvatore Ferragamo Ungaro

Salvatore Ferragamo Italia s.p.a. Via dei Tornabuoni, 2 - I-20123 Firenze tel. +39-055/33601 - fax +39-055/3360734

Henry Cotton’s Ducati- Mcs -Monello Mascalzone NY League

Diamond International s.r.l. Via Foce Cesano,4/9 – I-60019 Senigalla (AN) tel. +39/071-6610226 – fax +39/071-6611104 -

Simone Cosac

Simone Cosac Profumi s.r.l. Via Villamagna, 56/58 I-50012 Bagno a Ripoli (Firenze) tel. + 39/055-631251 – fax +39/055-631262

Intertrade Europe

HI Intertrade Europe Via Portogallo,11/125 - I-35127 Padova tel. +39-049/7625241 - fax +39-049/762 5177

Teatro Fragranze Uniche

Jean Couturier Léonard

VAG & Distribution 6, rue Pasquier - F-75008 Paris tel. +33-1/58183970 - fax +33-1/40060210

Teatro Fragranze Uniche s.r.l. Via Pietro Nenni, 26/28 - I-50019 Sesto Fiorentino (FI) tel. +39/055.4212240


Jesus del Pozo Roberto Verino Starck - Tous

Perfumes y Diseño España, S.L. Isla del Hierro, 5 E-28709 San Sebastian de los Reyes (Madrid) tel. +34-91/6588843 - fax +34-91/6588849

Valobra Via G. Carducci, 5/7 - I-16121 Genova tel. +39-010/581179 - fax +39-010/5702191



Milano Cosmetics s.r.l. Via Depretis, 6/9 - I-24122 Bergamo tel. +39-035/3693611 - fax +39-035/3693612

Euroitalia s.r.l. Via G. Galilei, 1 I-20040 Cavenago Brianza (MI) tel. +39-02/95916.1 - fax +39-02/95916500


Layla Cosmetics s.r.l. Via dei Pestagalli, 21 - I-20138 Milano tel. +39-02/5062052 - fax +39-02/5061160

Fragrance division: Arrogance - GMV Cosmetic division: Pikenz - PZ - PKZ SPA Scrinium Vital

The First s.p.a. Via Fieno, 8 I-20123 Milano tel. +39-02/661381 fax +39-02/66138519

ALV by Alviero Martini Villa Talente

Atkinsons - Benetton Ferrari - Iceberg John Galliano Sergio Tacchini

Beautimport s.p.a. Via Bentini, 55 I-40013 Castel Maggiore - BO tel. +39-051/7094611 - fax +39-051/700652 Perfume Holding - Morris s.p.a. Via Maretto, 13 I-43100 Parma - Roncopascolo tel. 39-0521/662111 - fax 39-0521/662268

Balmain Parfums - Celine - Lanvin Interparfums Paul Smith - Roxi - Van Cleef & Arpels 4 Rond Point del Champs Elysées Jimmy Choo - Mont Blanc F-75008 Paris tel. 33/1-53770000 - fax 33/1-53763626 Basile - Compagnia delle Indie Egon von Fürstenberg Lancetti - Lotto Nazareno Gabrielli Sweet Years

Weruska & Joël s.r.l. Corso Moncalieri, 381 I-10133 Torino tel. +39-011/6611066 fax +39-011/6611348


B.Kolormakeup & Skincare s.p.a. Via Canonica, 79/A Loc. Geromina – I-24047 Treviglio (BG) tel. 39/0363-590011 – fax 39/0363-590212




E M U L O V ! B M














EM - Profumeria Selettiva 8-17  
EM - Profumeria Selettiva 8-17  

Edizione Profumeria Selettiva e accessori Lusso E' un'esposizione permanente e aggiornata di prodotti selettivi e accessori di lusso: cosmet...