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export.magazine@mteedizioni.it

THE INTERNET GUIDE TO THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY WORLDWIDE

exportmagazine.net

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I N T E R N E T N. 4 / 2017 - bimestrale - mte Edizioni s.r.l. - Via r. gessi 28 - 20146 Milano - Tariffa R.O.C.: Poste Italiane s.p.a.

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Advertisers’ index

On the cover: diego dalla palma Milano, the Italian Make Up Professionals N. 4 ANNO XXXVII MAY / JUNE 2017 MAGGIO / GIUGNO 2017 BIMONTHLY DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano n. 85 del 16/02/1991 Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena Printing: Formagrafica s.r.l. - Carpi (MO) Art Director Teresa Tibaldi Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl Via Romolo Gessi, 28 - 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/48.95.23.05 Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: mteedizi@mteedizioni.it Managing Editor Giuseppe Tirabasso Editor-in-chief Claudia Stagno E-mail: export.magazine@mteedizioni.it Consultants Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom - Roberto Cimarosa Luca Clara - Valerie Kaminov - Rebecca Lazzari Joan Rundo - Simona Verga - Catherine Wrenn P.R. Promotion Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni USA: DT Publisher's Representative, Don Timmel, Los Angeles 3705 Greenfield Ave. #4, CA 90034-7030 Los Angeles, Tel. +1/310-838-3484 Email: jepub@att.net

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7/10 30 56-57 60-61

COMPANY diego dalla palma Pineider HSA The First

24-25 52-53 64/66 80-81

EVENTS China Beauty Expo Salvatore Ferragamo Parfums Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Esxence

18 34-35 62-63 70-71 82-83

INTERVIEW Deborah: M. Cova Paglieri: A. Bastoni Ancorotti Cosmetics: R. Ancorotti Bella Oggi: A. Ripari Swiss Arabian: Nader Adam Alì

6 12 14 32 36 46 50-51 72-73 74 84

LAUNCH Dolce & Gabbana Transvital Braccialini Baldinini L’Occitane Diamond Int. Elite Beauty CBN Power Line Shiseido Simone Andreoli

20/22

REPORT China: cross border ecommerce FLASH NEWS

76-78-85-86

Arrogance Astra Baldinini Bella Oggi Braccialini CBE-China Beauty Expo CBN Cosme Tokyo Cosmobeauté Cosmoprof Asia Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Cosmoprof North America diego dalla palma Deborah Elite Eslablondexx Skin Farmeco - Coverderm Henry Cotton’s Intercharm Moscow Locherber Make-up in Paris NewYork League Pineider Pollution Free Reef Cosmetics Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo Transvital Wabel

58-59 38/41 33 88-III 15 23 IV 77 79 37 67 19 Cover -11 16-17 49 54-55 26-27 45 48 5 75 44 31 II-1 69 2-3 13 68


M A D E I N I T A LY

LO C H E R B E R M I L A N O . C O M

B O U T I Q U E I N CO R S O M AG E N TA 3 0 , M I L A N O · T + 3 9 0 2 4 5 4 7 1 0 0 1

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DOLCE & adds a new fragrance to its GABBANA velvet collection Velvet Cypress, inspired by one of the most iconic features of Mediterranean landscapes, joins the luxurious Velvet Collection. The perfect Mediterranean view often includes the straight and slender silhouette of the Italian Cypress tree, which has inspired this new fragrance. An elegant, fresh woody citrus fragrance, it is built around a hearty dose of Cypress, a complex, highly-contrasted essence, blending fresh aromatic notes with the penetrating green scent of cedar. This signature note is complemented by rich natural extracts of Bergamot and Lemon, drawn from Italian groves, fields and herb gardens. The evocative aroma of the Cypress leaf is unveiled through a herbaceous green, cut-stem effect, combined with whiffs of sap, bark and earth with a resinous Galbanum. As the fragrance unfolds, the precious Cypress expresses its aromatic facets, highlighted by two qualities of a quintessentially masculine note. Enriched Clary Sage, a rare, cutting-edge ingredient enhanced through a natural process, showcases the fruitier side of the fragrant herb.

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Clary Sage Absolute hints at the hay and dry grass of the countryside in the late summer. A final touch of Virginian Cedar, a pure woody note, straight and slender as the tree, seals the scent of a unique Italian memory. Velvet Cypress comes in a 50 ml and 150 ml size. The Velvet Collection pays tribute to the designers’ sartorial heritage, exploring the deepest sense of male and female human nature. Revisiting the splendour of vintage Italian ingredients the collection derives its name from the precious texture of a fabric laden with timeless perfection. Full bodied and sensual against the skin, the mists of each scent in the collection evokes these captivating qualities with every use. Velvet Cypress brings the number of fragrances in the collection to fifteen, ranging from Velvet Pure to Velvet Rose, from Velvet Desire to Velvet Exotic Leather, from Velvet Sublime to Velvet Tender Oud.


COMPANY

diegoThedalla palma Italian make up professionals

diego dalla palma is Italian It’s italian because it’s visionary It’s visionary because it’s extreme It’s extreme because it’s contemporary It’s contemporary because it’s essential It’s essential because it’s refined It’s refined because it’s feminine It’s feminine because it’s diego dalla palma

Originally launched in Milan, Italy, in the mid 1970s, diego dalla palma make up has become known to combine professional skills with revolutionary and non-conventional ideas. Today diego dalla palma is a modern, sleek and innovative professional makeup brand. Every product is studied and tested at the diego dalla palma Make-up Studio in Milan by make-up artists constantly in contact with sophisticated consumers seeking quality and service well above market standards .

diego dalla palma offers a complete range of more than 300 professional products for makeup, skincare and haircare, new formulas and new generation textures which overcome the limits of colour, and four fashionable collections a year to react to the latest catwalk trends and colour palettes of the moment. The unique products are professional and glamourous at the same time. They’re professional and corrective, high performing and high quality.

They’re glamorous because they have been selected by professionals with expertise and knowledge. The brand, well known to the most demanding consumers, keeps increasing its distribution in Italy in more than 1200 selective doors and abroad in over 30 countries recording double digit figures of growth in the last three years and bringing the Italian style and taste to the most prestigious malls and shopping centres.

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diego dalla palma the cult of make-up INTERVIEW WITH MICOL CAIVANO, DIEGO DALLA PALMA CEO

EXPORT MAGAZINE: What are today the highlights of the diego dalla palma brand? MICOL CAIVANO: The diego dalla palma brand has always been synonymous with professionalism, which means offering something different compared to our competitors who opt for a more commercial policy, especially in the selective perfumery channel. Our products, of an extremely high quality, have very high performances recognized both by the retailers and by the consumers.

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We stake everything on the DNA of our brand which, as well as providing products with a high added value, gives extreme importance to technique and training. The presence of one of our make-up artists in the stores and training, in the case of foreign markets, at our distributors, currently represent the main vehicle and the strongpoint of our brand. We do not offer simply the products but we provide a service, by spreading the cult of make-up.

EM: diego dalla palma is becoming an increasingly international brand, does the “Made in Italy” factor support you in your development strategies? MC: In the past two years in particular, the diego dalla palma brand has been in an extremely positive phase of great growth, both in Italy and abroad. On many important markets, we are replicating the success we are having on our domestic market, let’s say that it is a logical consequence. Being Italian is a very great strong point for us, our being Italian is felt in every part of the brand, which expresses a whole series of characterizing elements, such as the graphic style of our brand which represents Italian design, elegance, sobriety and passion at the same time. The diego dalla palma woman is a woman of character, passionate, a little like the Italian woman, and this can be seen in our images, characterized by the use of white, black and red. The diego dalla palma brand is 100% Italian-made, as is the product, the packaging and above all so is our philosophy.

One important detail will appear at our stand at the Tax Free show in Cannes, a plate with the words ‘diego dalla palma Brera-Milano’, a tribute to the area where the brand came into being 30 years ago and from where the culture of our make-up is spread today. EM: In 2016 you became partners for make-up of Alitalia-Etihad, is this an important step in your history? MC: Emphasizing the value of the Italiannesss of our brand in 2016 we signed probably the most important partnership in our history from the point of view of visibility: in April we became the official partners for the make-up and beauty of the Italian national airline, Alitalia, Etihad-Alitalia. For us it is a flattering recognition, as we were deemed, amongst the several Italian brands taken into consideration, the one that can best represent Italianness abroad. Reaching this goal is for us a fundamental launch pad to increase the brand awareness internationally. For Alitalia we will look after everything concerning beauty.


COMPANY

A diego dalla palma video will be screened, before films on intercontinental flights, with tutorials and useful tips on how to do make-up or touching up before getting off the plane. The brand is sure to draw a considerable advantage from this partnership, which will last for three years. EM: Does this positively influence your presence in the duty free channel in your opinion? MC: We started in this channel about a year ago with very positive results; once again

The new shorooom in Brera, Milano

We developed the new look for the Alitalia flight personnel, proposing what has always been our image, from the lips, for which we created an ad hoc red, which is called ‘Alitalia red’, a shade of red with a point of blue that is suitable for the various types of hostess, all six thousand of them. We started with a major visibility campaign and we personalized a whole set of material, from the airline tickets to the wipes that are given every day to millions of travellers, as well as a conspicuous online presence on the main social networks, with our iconic institutional image.

The brow studio line

which is our final objective. EM: Has your partnership with Alitalia-Etihad helped you collaborate with other airlines? MC: Absolutely, at the moment we are present in the duty free selections of several companies, in the first place in the Griffair catalogue which is distributed on all Alitalia-Etihad flights. We are also present on Iberia, Blue Panorama, Luxair, Aer Lingus, and Czech Airlines. EM: In addition to make-up, diego dalla palma also has in its range a line of skincare and one for hair care. Why? MC: While taking into account

The contouring palette

our brand has been able to stand out for its values. Also because for the next few years, sales in the duty free channel will continue to be an important objective, and it is obvious that the partnership with Alitalia-Etihad is strengthening our credibility and our presence in this channel. We are aware that, as well as the turnover that will be developed, duty free represents an enormous opportunity for internationalization,

that make-up represents 85% of our turnover, the company is convinced that it has it in its DNA to be a make-up, skincare and hair products firm in equal proportions. The skin care line, which came into being only last year, is showing enormous potential. A few months ago we launched the new lifting segment: cream, serum and mask for an immediate lifting effect. The paper mask is particularly appreciated for its properties and being practical to use.

Limited edition RossoAlitalia kit

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COMPANY

The cleansing segment has also recently been enriched with three on trend products: a mask with quicksilver, a regenerating scrub and a make-up remover which is a two-phase micellar water.

This strategic choice has been dictated by the continuous attention to the market and by the awareness that to have health and beautiful-looking skin, it is fundamental to start from good cleansing. As for the hair line, it is the result of the wishes of our entrepreneur, Fabio Venturi, who historically has great knowledge of the hair sector, as in the 1980s he launched a brand which is still successfully present in the selective perfumery channel. At the moment we are therefore a complete all-round brand. All the products are extremely coherent and each of these lines has the values that have always characterized our brand; professionalism, quality, image and above all very great loyalty of the end consumer: anyone who tries one of our products never gives it up. EM: So the product is king for you… MC: The product is the lynchpin of our brand, the heart of diego dalla palma.

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To highlight our DNA even more, two years ago we embarked on an interesting journey, launching in the brand a “line in the line” named after our ‘Make-up Studio’; it is a line developed by make-up professionals, for the end consumer. These products are even more Professional, with very high technical performances. This line has become a real bestseller, confirming that we have been able to satisfy the expectations of our most demanding clients, the so-called ‘make-up addicts’. We are talking about a young public, attentive to market trends and the most avant-garde colours.

We have picked up this trend, from the United States, in Italy by creating a range of five products with a total of 20 shades, with which effects from natural to super graphic can be obtained. We have also added a travelling make-up school, both in Italy and the world with brow bars with the diego dalla palma brand where we spread the culture of make-up, emphasizing the importance of the design of the brows. The line, already a bestseller, confirms the identity of our brand, made up of professionalism together with technique and service.

With the advent of the social media and youtubers, it is professional brands like ours that have come to the fore. Contrary to what you might think, the price positioning of ‘Make-up Studio’ is slightly lower than the diego dalla palma line, as we intend targeting a wider public. In it, last January we launched ‘The Brow Studio’ line, wholly dedicated to brow design.

EM: Can we summarize the positioning of your brand? MC: Our image, perceived as very prestigious, has a medium price positioning, to meet the needs of our clientele which is increasingly made up, as I said, of make-up addicts who are increasingly attentive to the price factor, without overlooking the quality and performance of the product. Today our brand is considered as one of the best in terms of price/quality ratio.

C.S.


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An innovative beauty device by

TRANSVITAL The first dermo-cosmetic self-care for home and professional use

Transvital presents Transvital Regeneration My Mask. This new product is perfectly in line with market trends as recently there has been an increased demand in perfumeries for professional, innovative cosmetics, and for beauty devices with amazing results from the first application. The Transvital solution to this demand is Young Again® a new approach that combines Transvital’s biodynamic cosmetics with the Young Again® medical technology. Transvital Regeneration My Mask is unique and innovative self-care because it can be used at home or professionally in the perfumery, but without the need for the beautician. This device holds worldwide patents and has received prestigious international certifications, from European, US, Australian and Canadian standards bodies, confirming its safety and reliability. Transvital Young Again® has also been the subject of international conferences on dermatology, cosmetic medicine and cosmetic surgery, with the effectiveness of the treatment asserted in medical reports.

Medical technology and Swiss cosmetics The device combines photobiostimulation and photoeudermia to improve the cellular metabolism and stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. Photobiostimulation is a natural process based on the fact that cells contain receptors that absorb light and, depending on the wavelength, trigger specific biological response mechanisms. In photoeudermia, the activation of light irradiates the tissues, boosting ATP and activating a chemical reaction in the skin cells, making them more receptive to cosmetic products.

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Young Again ® technology, by channelling cosmetic products through the epidermis and dermis, prevents and counteracts the blemishes caused by ageing, strengthening the skin’s structure and optimizing its condition. The results are immediately visible with greater volume of cheeks, raising of the eyebrow arch and u nder-eye bags and lines of expression are reduced. As a whole, the face takes on a more radiant and relaxed appearance.

Using My Mask is simple: after cleaning and toning the skin, Regenerating Serum is applied and then My Mask is applied for 20 minutes, followed by an application of Regenerating Cream. My Mask for home use contains Regenerating Serum and Regenerating Cream and My Mask is activated for 50 applications. In perfumeries, the client can use My Mask autonomously in a 20-minute session without the help of a beautician. Transvital also offers the Be Check System®, the first software and hardware that diagnoses the skin and suggests the best cosmetics for the skin type through the measurement of certain parameters. The results are then displayed in a user-friendly chart and subsequently processed by a professional and home treatment programme.


CLOSE YOUR EYES AND LET YOURSELF ENFOLD BY THE MASK OF LIGHT REGENERATION MY MASK TRANSVITAL The new luxury treatment which combines the Transvital biodynamic cosmetic with the Young Again® medical technology patented worldwide. The selective light stimulates the cellular photo rejuvenation with visible and effective results in only 20 minutes.

Visit us at: TFWA Singapore Basement 2 - Stand K2

www.transvital.ch

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BRACCIALINI a new fragrance and a new

look for the glamour collection The successful Glamour Collection reflects the young, fashion and feminine spirit of the brand.

Glossy Green evokes the freshness of nature and its floral and fruity notes conjure up the first days of Springtime, the need to breathe in fresh air and feel new life sap running through our veins. Glossy Green, created by perfumer Amandine Marie, is a joyous and bright fragrance that reveals, with an elegant floral bouquet, all the freshness of nature. The top notes of crisp apple together with the sparkling and juicy hesperide notes act as a counterpoint to the sharp-sweet notes of redcurrant. The graceful and feminine heart of the fragrances is an interweaving of the fleshy intensity of jasmine, the transparent freshness of freesia and the delicate purity of water-lily. The comfortable and enveloping base is warming with creamy notes of sandalwood on a musk base, where they meet the sensuality of amber notes.

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Following on the success of last season with its Glamour Collection, Braccialini has added even more glamour to the collection this year. The two original fragrances Casual and Chic become Cherry Chic and Blue Casual, are joined by Glossy Green. “Greenery” is the colour that has been decreed as the shade of the year and Braccialini, licensed to Eurocosmesi, has been inspired by this for its new fragrance in the “Glamour Collection”.

Cherry Chic has a classic style of charm, uniting the elegant femininity of floral notes with the irony of vanilla-hued notes and a woody and bold texture for a feminine and sophisticated woman. The sparkling green notes of bergamot in the top contrast with the warm and enveloping notes of red fruit and pink pepper, creating a perfect balance. In the heart, the juicy notes of guava are interwoven with a floral bouquet of delicate violet notes and the exotic hints of Brazilian gardenia. In the base, the warmth of tonka bean and the elegance of cedar wood accompany a mysterious touch of patchouli.

Blue Casual is a modern and sparkling composition for an extrovert and unpredictable woman, The olfactory construction plays on the contrast of fresh, sparkling and natural notes and rich and refined notes, which warm up with the passing of time. The top notes offer an initial pleasant impact of bergamot, blackcurrant and green leaves; the heart develops from fresher flowers such as lily of the valley and rose with violet mixed in delicately to reach the warmer, richer and sensual part of jasmine and ylang ylang, for an exotic and spicy touch. The evolution leads to a soft base of vanilla and sandalwood to end with the more sensual and feminine part of white cedar and enveloping musk. The feminine shape of the bottle reinforces the femininity of the brand and acts as a prelude to the fragrance. The cap bears the unmistakable logo of the fashion house, a rose, the iconic symbol of femininity.


Visit us at: TFWA Singapore Basement 2 – Stand K2

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INTERVIEW

EVERYDAYDIVA Deborah Milano expresses an up-to-date advertising concept that exalts the seduction in every woman Interview with Malvina Cova, Marketing Manager Deborah Milano EM: The Deborah brand has naturally been renewed in time; what is your strategy to continue speaking to women and communicating how the brand is always at the service of their beauty? MC: We have decided to work with new creative partners to be able to communicate as best as possible with our consumers both offline and online.

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Can we talk about the DNA of Deborah and how it is still topical today? MALVINA COVA: Deborah Milano was founded in 1962 with the mission of democratizing beauty, offering high quality products at an affordable price. Quality products, made exclusively in Italy and excellent not only from the point of view of the formulas, but also aesthetically. Deborah Milano has always paid great attention to its packaging, choosing major names of international design. All these values are still very topical and are found in the new communication that we are producing in 2017.

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EM: Which tools of communication do you adopt to communicate with your consumers? MC: Deborah Milano has always invested in the press, in the main weekly and monthly magazines; in recent years we have boosted our investments in the digital channels, which today are indispensable in our sector. EM: This year you have chosen a new communication agency; can you illustrate briefly the concept that you have chosen to express? MC: We have started to work with Saatchi & Saatchi, with whom we have developed the concept of #EveryDayDiva. #EveryDayDivacomes from the desire to create a campaign that can tell the story of the reality of Deborah Milano through the

choice of an emotional and high impact format, that is strongly recognizable and distinctive. A “meta magazine” with modern and ironic writing, which relates a contemporary lifestyle without forgetting the historical values of the brand: a democratic “beauty ally,” at the service of Italian women since 1962 with high quality products and continually evolving formulas. With the #EveryDayDiva campaign, Deborah Milano speaks for the right of every woman to take care of herself and feel like a star, despite the frenetic rhythm of today’s society and the countless obligations of the day divided between the family, work, friends and spare time.

EM: Deborah Milano clearly has all the strength of a Made in Italy brand. Do you think that it is important for a brand like yours to be successful on the main international markets? MC: Of course! In an increasingly globalized world, we remain strenuous defenders of Made in Italy products. In supporting Made in Italy products, with a seductive appeal and of impeccable quality, which is admired all over the world, we are very much aware that the meticulous care for detail puts our brand into a dimension which is almost artisanal. C.S.


JULY 2017

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REPORT

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VALERIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Having spent over twenty years working with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances, Valerie has extensive knowledge and practical experience of their supply, distribution and retail, pertinent commercial practices and consumer habits on a global and local basis. Her expertise has been highly valued by multi-national organizations, SMEs, start-ups, privately owned companies and financial investors. Certified in Corporate Governance from INSEAD Business School, Valerie has the remarkable ability to successfully set the company’s strategic direction, often across diverse product markets and geographies, and monitor the firm’s risk profile. As a qualified Non-Executive Director who was awarded the prestigious Financial Times Post-Graduate Diploma, Valerie Kaminov is highly trained in corporate governance and is an experienced NED and Director enabling her to have an holistic understanding of boards. She advises both as a consultant and an NED. 
Valerie’s experience earned her a reputation with major players in the industry who hired her to establish them globally. Her expertise in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth has been highly valued by Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors. She is also dedicated to passing her knowledge along through a range of conferences and events. Valerie has been a guest speaker at the non-profit organization CEW’ Mentoring Services where leading executives offer insights into beauty industry issues and inspiration for professional growth. 
As the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) Master of Ceremony, Valerie organizes one of its kind conference in Europe, key global gathering for manufacturers, brand owners and distributors to come together and discuss the challenges facing the industry and their businesses by giving the attendees unlimited networking opportunities.

Cross-border ecommerce: is China leading the way? The future success of a business depends in part on its ability to continue to expand in the developing markets. There currently isn’t a larger market than the Chinese market. China can be a major battleground but it can also offer huge opportunity, if dealt with successful. In other words, China might just be one of the largest untapped and undiscovered treasures in the world. Believe me when I say that entering the Chinese market can be a fierce battle: as John Kapoor used to say, “You might have a great thing - but if you don’t know how to market, then you can’t succeed”. And for many reasons, it is extremely difficult for Western companies to operate in the Chinese market in the same way they do back home. In fact, in most cases, China often presents high risks and stories of failure are more frequent than successful ones which is why many firms decide to stay out of this highly complex market. Understanding a market is key to making a success of your story, so here are a few tips that will help you and your business navigate in clearer waters and avoid pitfalls when expanding into the Chinese Market.

I. General Trends of

the Chinese Market

For more than ten years, China has been a uniquely powerful engine of the global economy. However, recent growth has slowed, prompting sharp falls in the international commodity prices. Last year alone, GDP and employment growth dipped to its lowest rate in 25 years, corporate debt continued to soar and by mid-2015 the stock market had dropped by 43 percent. All these signs indicate, some pessimists would say, that China could be heading towards a financial crisis.

So, what’s next for China? With more than 460 million people shopping online last year alone, racking up US$750 billion in sales, China is, without a doubt, the world’s largest e-commerce market. Whilst there has been concerns of a slack in the market, online retail growth is expected to carry on growing at 23% CAGR between 2016 and 2020, a figure nearly triple the growth pace of offline retail. As they continue to spend more, it seems likely that Chinese consumers will broaden their patterns of consumption which are currently limited by the quality and variety of Chinese goods and services at their disposal. In fact, a shift in preference from mass to premium products is being observed in the Chinese consumer as their appetite for luxury and sophisticated brands increases. Foreign brands are considered to be of better quality than the products made locally. Moreover, the Chinese population has an ever-growing interest and demand for luxurious and sophisticated brands. Nearly 690 million Internet users (as of December 2015) and 700 million smartphone users are the foundations of the Chinese online community, which provides the industry with ways to identify and meet latent consumer demand. All 467 million of China’s existing online shoppers spend around US$1,300 a year each on e-commerce, representing over a quarter of average disposable income.  The average spend per customer is expected to grow further at a rate of 10% CAGR between 2016 and 2020 as household income continues to rise and consumers begin to buy into more categories and purchase more branded goods. New trends are reshaping the consumers purchasing habits. They are driven by the rapid take-up of e-commerce, the increasing-


REPORT ly important role of social media, the development of digital payment platforms and the increased use of smartphones and mobile devices. By 2015, e-commerce transactions reached an outstanding US$540 billion which equated to a total of 7.5% of all retail transactions. By 2020, China’s e-commerce market is forecasted to be larger than those of the US, UK, Japan, Germany and France combined. 12% of all online spend in China is on cosmetics and beauty products. Here are a few reasons why Chinese customers are driven by online shopping: • They can search for the best deals and prices in a few clicks. • They can easily compare products on quality and price (it is easy to compare products without moving location before purchase.) • A wide range of products and brands offered are available to them (some brands and products would not be available to Chinese consumers if it weren’t for ecommerce) • They are assured on the country of origin of each product (risk of buying fake products is a big concern for Chinese online shoppers) • Brands can reach consumers outside main cities where they are not traditionally present.

Those who shop online daily (from 2012 to 2015)

II. Cross Border Chinese

Ecommerce

The internet is increasingly becoming China’s number one destination for sales, ecommerce is advantageous for both customer and business owner. In fact, when a foreign business wishes to expand into the Chinese market, there are different business models available, the easiest one being selling through third party Chinese e-platforms. In other words, being able to reach the Chinese online shopper without having a registered business in China.

Beauty & Personal Care Growth Prospects in the Middle East (2014-2019)

What does selling via e-commerce mean for the brand? • No animal testing. • No product registration. • No import duties. • No sales tax. • A saving both for the brand and the consumer of up to 67% depending on the product type.

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REPORT

III. What are the right

platforms for your business right now?

China Cosmetic Online Market Share In 2016, the market share of TAOBAO+TMALL accounted for around 60% of all online beauty market shares. From this, we can observe that TAOBAO+TMALL play a dominant role in the Chinese online market. At International Luxury Brand Consultancy, we know that choosing the right platform for your business can be a tough decision, especially if you are navigating in unknown waters. We work with our clients so that we can provide them with clarity backed up with years of experience, expertise and knowledge. With many years of experience under our belt, we have put together a selection of platforms that we class as the best when wishing to expand into the Chinese Market: • WEIPINHUI VIP is the leading online discount retailer in China. The website offers a wide range of products from clothing and household goods to cosmetics and apparel. Today, Weipinhui VIP has more than 100 million registered users. The website mainly caters for white-collar brand admirers that are on the constant lookout for flash sales. The website carries more than 18,000 brands including big names such as SK-II, Lancôme and Estée Lauder to mention a few. The annual revenue in 2015 was RMB 40 billion. • JUMEI is the n°1 retailer in China for beauty products. They sell branded beauty products as well as child and maternity products. Jumei has over 16 million active users, 2’091 suppliers and a returning customer rate of

92%. The website mainly caters for young Chinese women and their sale format relies on curated sales and flash sales as well as operating as an online shopping mall. Jumei has an extensive portfolio of beauty brands including Lancôme, Mary Kay, L’Occitane, Clinique and Borghese amongst others. Its net revenue in 2015 was RMB 7.3 billion. RED XIAOHONGSHU is both a Cross Border e-commerce and social APP selling a wide range of products from cosmetics and nutrition to mother and baby care. It has 17 million registered users. 90% of the consumer demographic are women and of those women, 80% of them are younger than 30 years old. Red Xiaohongshu sells top brands such as Bioderma, Elizabeth Arden, Avène, Dior, Salvatore Ferragamo and Dyptique amongst many others. The mission of the company to provide their customers with a unique experience that allows them to discover, shop and share, with their marketing mainly relying on the power of word-of-mouth. KAOLA is a Cross Border e-commerce website from NetEase, born in 2015. It offers its customers a vast array of products from foods and snacks to maternity and baby, from cosmetics and clothing right through to apparel and electronics. The website mainly caters for white collar women aged between 20 and 45 that have a strong presence as an online shopper. When it comes to cosmetics, Koala sells mega brands including P&G, Estée Lauder, Clarin’s, Christian Dior, Lancôme and Kiehl’s. TAOBAO & TMALL are the 12th and 30th most popular websites in the world, respec-

tively. They sell C2C and B2C and are owned by the tech giant Alibaba, with over 400 million active buyers. On both platforms, customers can choose from a wide variety of high-end brands such as Dior, Shiseido, Chanel, Bioderma and many others. Taobao and Tmall have registered a gross merchandise volume of RMB 3 million in 2015 alone and are continuing to grow as time goes on. JINGDONG is the biggest B2C online retailer with a market share of 56%. The website sells a wide selection of products ranging from electronics to home appliances and has over 40 million different SKUs. Customers can choose from an extensive brand portfolio that includes high-end brands like SK-II, Guerlain, Caudalie, Dior and premium brands such as Schwarzkopf. Jingdong’s revenue was RMB 180 billion in 2015.

Entering the Chinese market can be extremely tough for many reasons, one being the highly complex political and financial structure of this market and in turn, the country. As mentioned before, stories of failure are frequently more common than those of success, which is why many brands avoid entering this market altogether. However, China represents an exciting opportunity that brands just simply cannot and should not ignore. Foreign companies need to understand from the very beginning that Chinese customers’ tastes greatly differ from Western ones and therefore they will need to adapt their products and services to meet the specific needs of the Chinese consumer. With the right strategic plan and the adequate partner, China could be the next stop on the agenda for your brand.

For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand into different markets such as China, please contact us on info@ilbc.co.uk or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk 22


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EVENTS

china beauty expo 2017 Building on the success of previous editions, international attendance and scope of the expo have been consistently increased from one edition to the next, thus transforming the show into the key reference for the Asian beauty industry. CBE 2017 will host to 3,000 exhibitors with over 250,000 sqm of exhibition space.

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Among those will be more than 1200 international brands and 500 international direct presences from 26 countries and regions (Increased by 90% over last two years), including Australia, Austria, Belgium, Canada, Estonia, France, Germany, Hong Kong, India, Israel, Italy, Japan, Lithuania, Malaysia, Netherlands, New Zealand, Poland, Singapore, South Korea, Spain,

Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, UK and USA. CBE is the ideal platform for cosmetics manufacturers, brands and agents to penetrate the Asia-Pacific markets. The beauty industry’s distribution channels are constantly developing. To keep abreast the constant evolution, CBE 2017 will be the


EVENTS

gathering point for 350,000 trade visitors, hailing from all networks, including department stores, shopping malls, supermarkets, specialty chain stores, beauty salons, nail salons, SPA, hair salons, plastic surgery hospital and e-commerce. With a range of show features and activities, CBE 2017 aim to provide insight, as well as networking opportunities to meet the needs of manufacturers, brand owners and retailers.

Beyond Beauty Trends Partnering with movers and shakers of the industry in the world, China Beauty Expo highlights upcoming beauty trends in make-up color, fragrances, packaging as well rules and regulations, presented by a selection of international speakers from Europe, USA and Asia. Boasting such NO.1 companies like Firmenich, NO.1 in global fragrance supply chains; Musée de Grass, NO.1 in worldwide fragrance museum. Partnering with movers and shakers of the industry in the world, China Beauty Expo highlights upcoming beauty trends in make-up color, fragrances, packaging as well as rules and regulations, presented by a selection of international speakers from Europe, USA, and Asia.

2017 Country of Honor – France As of China Beauty Expo’s tradition welcoming a country of honor each year, France will be the country chosen for 2017. Cosmetic Valley cooperate with China Beauty Expo since 2008 and federating French companies to the show, in hall E1 to hall E7 where more than 800 French brands are located inside distributors stands . and you will find your full service French offer in hall W4- to N4. Discover your journey at N5, designed by Centdegres, a French HQ designer, together with Musee of Grasse, Firmenich and Capsum, presenting a whole new trend Gallery about MIX&MATCH. On CBE, an international platform, French exhibitors will showcase the latest and best of beauty products, technology and services. In 2017, visitors can enjoy viewing France at China Beauty Expo.

Beauty Ingredients & Formulation Forum (BI&F) CBE boasts the latest developing trends of technology as well as industry and analyzes the upstream cosmetics industry from laws and regulations, safety detection, innovative technology and application May rd 23 with SDCTA talking about Studies on new cosmetics regulations in China. May 24th powered by IFSCC this year, provides the latest market trends and leading technologies at N2 meeting room. IFSCC, International congress dedicated to cosmetology advanced science with L’Oreal, LVMH, Greentech and Chanel Research & Development players together with International and Chinese experts. Worldwide most concerned topic, Advances in Beauty Science, will be brought to site.

Attendees will take away informative, engaging and practical information covering the

For more information, please check www.chinabeautyexpo.com/en

most important and timely issues relevant to todays’ beauty business environment.

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MEET US AT:

MEET US AT:

BEAUTY WORLD MIDDLE EAST

C H I NA BEAU TY EXPO

Booth S2-E26 May 14/16, 2017 Dubai

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Booth N1-F1417 May 23/25, 2017 Shanghai

B.KOLORMAKEUP & SKINCARE S.p.a. Via Canonica, 79/A - Loc. Geromina, 24047 Treviglio (BG) - ITALY Ph. + 39.0363.59.00.11 - Fax + 39.0363.59.02.12 info@bkolormakeup.com - www.bkolormakeup-skincare.com


B&.kolormakeup skin care: AN ITALIAN REALITY IN THE SERVICE OF WORLD BEAUTY Make-up or skincare? A border which does not create any barriers for B.kolormakeup & skin care. The ultimate expression of colour caring make-up and the most technological creativity in skincare are the principles that our company has adopted for its sixteen years as an innovator in the world of beauty. An entirely Italian business reality dedicated to those who wish to position their brand at the highest and most exclusive levels in the marketplace so as to differentiate themselves from what is commonly available. The force of innovation developed by over forty professional researchers, the quality of production supported by the utmost attention to detail and the latest technologies, the security of a sales team providing customized advice in project development, the reliability of a precise organization devoted to the respect and timing that every customer demands at all times, regardless what the project extent could be. A stable, consistent and concrete company which allows its customers to achieve the highest levels in the market with the ease of providing a reliable and successful product over time. Emulsions, anhydrous, powders, baked and extrusions instilled with the experience of extensive research committed to caring cosmetics, and conducted in appropriate locations where research, development, production, filling, packaging as well as final shipment are carried out under the careful and constant monitoring and quality control of highly specialized employees. B.kolormakeup & skin care is the ideal partner for those who want to address cosmetics with a glimpse to the future.

B.kolormakeup & skin care : 提供全球化美容产品定制服务的意大利彩妆护肤工厂

彩妆还是护肤?Bkolormakeup & skincare 从来不设定 界线。作为美容界的创新者,十六年来我们从未停止 对彩妆和护肤产品创意化形态转换的精准传递。 作为一家百分之百的意大利工厂,我们致力于帮助 客户实现自身品牌的个性化及差异化优势,提升品牌 的市场定位。 我们雄厚的创新力量来自于近五十位的专业配方师 对品质细节的专注及先进的生产设备技术。 可靠安全的商业操守使我们成为客户值得信赖的项 目专业顾问,无论项目大小,我们的高效守时都能 让客户放心满意。 严谨,专业,可靠使我们能够帮助客户提升自身品牌 形象,创造品牌的经典产品。乳剂类,无水类,压粉 类,烤粉类,混压类,所有产品都源于多年的研发 经验积累。 不仅如此,我们工厂的专业人员对开发,设计,生产, 灌装,成品包装,运输每个环节都严格持续把控。 如果你们想成为未来彩妆护肤的引领者, B.kolormakeup & skin care 将会是你们理想的合作伙伴。 29


COMPANY

PINEIDER from stylish stationery to fine fragrances Pineider’s history began in 1774 in Piazza della Signoria, where Francesco Pineider opened his first shop. Soon Pineider’s unique products attracted some of the most notable writers of the time including Stendhal, Lord Byron, Leopardi and Charles Dickens. Tradition has it that Napoleon stopped by the historic Florentine workshop. As its reputation for excellence continued to grow, Pineider became the official stationer of the Savoys, the Italian royal family.

All the Pineider fragrances embody the spirit and philosophy of the company’s founder, real masterpieces enclosed in a bottle. Every single product is exclusively made in Italy. Pineider exalts the tradition of Italian craftsmanship in order to satisfy those who love unique products with the highest quality and attention to detail. The box, in unpolished mahogany, is inspired by the ancient ways of shipping Bergamot essence. The metal cap, covered in stitched drummed deer leather, adds an aristocratic touch. The line comprises four different fragrances in a 100 ml size.

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Pineider, a synonymous with style and refinement for over two centuries.

Oud Assoluto is a new sensual interpretation of oud, with the inebriating and spicy scent of osmanthus and cinnamon bark in the top notes. Orchidea Reale is an exceptionally rich, original and sensual fragrance. Cuoio Nobile is reminiscent of the

highly polished boots of the Russian Cossacks, of oriental lands such as Morocco and Turkey, of Cordoba in Andalusia, all renowned for their leather. Bianco di Bulgaria, is a fresh, citrus unisex fragrance. Its originality comes from the essence of angelica seeds and star anise.

Profumitalia is proud to introduce the latest creation in the line, a luxury edition called “Giglio di Firenze,” inspired by the charming history of Caterina de’ Medici, an Italian noblewoman who was the queen of France from 1547 until 1559, as the wife of King Henry II. Caterina is a symbol of the Renaissance, her love for fragrance was very great at the time and when she moved from Florence to Paris she decided to take the fragrance of Florence with her, “Giglio di Firenze”, her favorite perfume. The “Giglio” is still the emblem of the city; in the language of flower it is always associated with positive feelings of femininity, symbol of loyalty and purity. The fragrance, elegant and sophisticated, reveals itself little by little while it enchants forever. The voluptuousness of the splendid citrusy notes of bergamot and yellow mandarin is enriched by the green and spicy notes of calamus and neroli. The melody of the floral heart is emphasized by the Lily of Florence, rounded with an original accord of orange blossom and heliotrope. The bottom note is a perfect alchemy of patchouli, musk and virgin cedar, completed with a touch of Madagascar vanilla. “Giglio di Firenze” is the ideal flower to give to a special and unique woman: who we consider our queen.


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LAUNCH

five sophisticated and intense fragrances driven by passion

BALDININI fine fragrances collection

A true symbol of extreme elegance that celebrates the Italian craftsmanship, Baldinini shoes have become a must-have brand for the general public around the world. With over a century of expertise in the field of footwear, the company from San Mauro Pascoli is still a contemporary, creative and high quality reality. In fact, since 1910, Gimmi Baldinini (who represents the third generation), designer and now leading the company, realizes his shoes with the same passion and artisan vocation with which he signs each creation. Today Baldinini, motivated by the desire to expand its lifestyle segment, joins Selectiva S.p.A. Selectiva translates the Baldinini’s elegance into fragrances that perfectly reflect the brand values. Multicolor Leather Straps is the concept that characterizes this project: the scents, encased in bottles with a strong and intense color, convey the plasticity and the texture of leather. Each bottle is the expression of an emotion that wants to wrap

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the senses in a heady essence of well-being thanks to wisely combined olfactory notes. Perfected in every detail, the packaging of these fragrances have been designed to make them real “beauty accessories”; the colors that dress up the bottles are part of the cult Baldinini collections. Strongly inspired by the plasticity

of the materials used in the collection, the glass evokes the fancy of leather twines, thanks to the contrast between the glossy lacquered effect of the bottle and the opacity of the ton-sur-ton screen printing. The shiny gold capsule, finished with a leather top with the carved GB initials gives a touch of preciousness.

MULTICOLOR LEATHER STRAPS COLLECTION Sophisticated and intense, the fragrances, all Unisex Eau de Parfum 100 ml. size, embody 5 different shades: AMBER STRAPS, its eastern soul envelops the spirit with a lively mix of flowers and a gourmand touch. Sensual and enigmatic, its composition fascinates and enchants. BLUE STRAPS, the bright blue tint explodes in a symphony of woods and citrus. Sparkling and dynamic adapts to those who choose freshness and freedom.

EMERALD STRAPS, the vivid green that characterizes the bottle holds a flower bouquet warmed by the notes of wood and spices, ideal for romantic souls. PINK STRAPS, dedicated to firm and decisive natures, the spices core leaves a defined and uncompromising essence on the skin its oriental touch is enveloping and addictive. YELLOW STRAPS, crispy fragrant fruits embrace a composition of flowers to dive into notes of cedar and amber. His spicy soul enchants and seduces the senses.


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INTERVIEW

PAGLIERI GROUP A company with an unmistakable DNA

for leading brands on international markets Interview with Andrea Bastoni, General Manager Paglieri S.p.a.

performing, thanks to the high content of surfactants present. We then made an important structural change for detergents as well, coming out in January with very performing products which are at the moment the “state of the art” with 55 ml doses which, according to the most recent AISE standards, represent the future of this category. Export Magazine: When did you join the company and what were the first objectives you set? Andrea Bastoni: I have been with the company since last March; as Paglieri has been on the market for 140 years, one of the first objectives is definitely that of developing the potential of the brand, which in my opinion, is very great. Our leading brand is Felce Azzurra, for which there is a very strong attachment and recognizability. The potential to be developed goes in the direction of fragrance, the real area of election, the area that brings together all our markets. Our approach, of a transversal type, has given rise to the new claim: ‘Felce Azzurra perfumes your life’. This statement, which sees fragrance as the principle moment of the Felce Azzurra brand, is very recognizable for the consumers and allows the markets where we operate to be united by this brand pay-off..

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EM: We could say that it is a real upgrade of the brand… AB: Definitely, starting off from the fragrance but without forgetting the formulas, i.e. the content and the packaging; our operation aims at growing in two directions: on the one hand we make the brand more appetizing to consumers and the trade, on the other we make the product more performing. EM: What is the special attention to the contents and the renewed formulation due? AB: In the past year, we have carried out various reformulations and two complete re-engineerings of the product. I am referring to the concentrated softeners launched in September, characterized by advanced formulas and containing pearls of perfume, made with the most refined fragrances from the principal international essence companies. These are products that are up to five times more

EM: Will the average consumer adapt to this new type of proposal, being used to large sizes? AB: the challenge is open. Paglieri, in the sphere of fragrance, has tried to find a place of its own in tradition. This is why, alongside the classic Felce Azzurra product, we have added Aleppo soap and volcanic ash, ingredients of a traditional type. There has been a reasonable price adjustment, in line with the different formula contents. EM: Is this a response to the different strategies of competitors? AB: A certain type of competition can focus on international research and on established brands.Felce Azzurra, as I said, can focus on the fragrance, on Italian tradition, on being able to be close to the consumer and on all the experience of a brand like ours, which has always been alongside Italian families.

EM: Do these characteristics, typically Italian, help your presence on intenational markets? AB: Ours is not an ostentatious Italianness but I would say an experienced one, that is perceived from the various aspects of the brand. We are Italian in our DNA, without making being Italian the reason for purchase. We recently met all our international partners and we presented our strategic direction to them asserting our ambition to be the Italian leaders in personal care and in home care. This is the vision that will continue to guide us to discover new export markets. EM: Which are the markets where Felce Azzurra is the most successful? AB: We have an important strength in the Balkans area, due to attentive work in the past few years, a consistent force on “Italian-loving” markets such as Germany, Belgium, Luxemburg and Libya, we aim to conquer important markets such as France, where there is a strong potential. We are also present in many other areas, where we will try to improve our presence.


INTERVIEW

EM: You have also entered the category of home fragrances with some interesting ideas… AB: Yes, since, thanks to fragrance, this is a category similar to Paglieri’s territory. We have also launched an electric product with a light, the only one on the Italian market, which is very successful, and which can be replicated abroad for its originality and the excellent price/quality ratio.

important choices in terms of assortment, with maximum attention to the renewed needs of consumers.

EM: How do you succeed in satisfying the needs of new distribution, considering the great changes that have taken place recently? AB: We have also changed a lot; in the past year we have undergone a reorganization, we have reformulated our sales organization, to adapt it better to the Italian panorama of distribution. In the first place we are focusing on modern distribution: a number of resources have been included in our sales organization, in order to be to all effects a professional and legitimized partner, both in the category of personal care and of home care.

consumers are asking for, such as the ‘natural’ segment. Aquolina is legitimized to offer a line of more up to date products. The challenge is to continue satisfying those who have known us since the beginning, always having the force of attracting the new generations. The research we have carried out shows that Aquolina is transversal in terms of age and can still count on excellent recognizability. At the same time, consumers are asking us to change pace which we are finalizing.

EM: Let’s also talk about Selectiva, another company in the Paglieri Group. AB: Selectiva is carrying out an attentive market analysis aimed at redefining the portfolio of its offer. It can count on well-known brands, which have a high level of desirability and are known to Italian and foreign consumers. We are defining our strategic approach and the role that each brand will play. We are making

EM: Which direction will the Aquoline brand be taking? AB: Aquolina has a gourmand background which we do not want to totally abandon, aware of having to update the proposals according to the new trends that

EM: Another brand of the group is Baldinini, of which you have recently acquired the international licence for fragrances. You have recently launched a collection of fragrances… AB: Baldinini is a fine project, which is part of the strategy of

Selectiva to offer a professional distribution platform for perfumery brands. Baldinini, for which we are expecting excellent results from the international markets, will definitely give us satisfaction on the Italian market as well.

This soul, which has its roots in the great competence in perfumes, handed down from one generation to the next, sees, on the celebration of the 140th anniversary of the company, a new line which wants to celebrate the Paglieri

The brand is positioned amongst the best Italian brands: with our partners we are focusing on the synergy between fashion and fragrance.

experience in this world. Created as a creative divertissement, it is reaping its first successes abroad, in the circuit of hyperselective perfumery. We can say that, with Paglieri 1876, our company covers the whole spectrum of the market, reaching even the most sophisticated consumers.

EM: Last but not least, there is Paglieri 1876. AB: Of course, here we are in the full essence of the Paglieri family, perfumers for generations.

EM: What can you see in the near future for the Paglieri Group? AB: Being able to fulfil all the market potential that Paglieri can express with Felce Azzurra, Cléo, Aquolina, and, not least, the historical brand of the family. Claudia Stagno

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LAUNCH

If light had a fragrance it would be that of Terre de Lumière, inspired by the light of Provence

L’OCCITANE a new fragrance inspired by light Terre de Lumière is the new fragrance from L’Occitane, which has never ceased to be fascinated by light: the light that is reflected from every corner giving rise to an infinite kaleidoscope of colours. A light that reaches the height of its sublime splendour in the golden hour, when a magnificent and breath-taking sky pervades the whole of Provence. It is this seductive and brief instant that it has succeeded in immortalizing in a fragrance: Terre de Lumière. Its inspiration comes from sunset over a field of lavender. That magical moment when light is at its zenith and there reigns a moment of calm, a brief instant when the day is about to end but the night has not yet arrived, has been enclosed in a bottle.

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In the words of the master perfumer Calice Becker, “This happens when the light reaches its most romantic moment. And when perfumes and odours are at their most intense.” Citrus and floral on first impact, this characteristic fragrance reveals a surprising gourmand spirit before ending on balsamic and musk notes. The foaming top notes reawaken the first sensations during a walk in Provence. The first impact is that of a slight breeze, followed by the pleasant encounter between the skin and the warm sunlight, while the gourmand notes are released in a crescendo of pleasure before the incredible scenario of the sunset, in a heart of lavender honey and base notes of acacia blossom, essence of bitter almonds, tonka bean and white musk.

The contrasts of Provence are captured in this seductive fragrance in a sort of surprising paradox: the encounter between a floral soul and a gourmand heart make Terre de Lumière the first Floral Gourmand fragrance by L’Occitane. The design for Terre de Lumière is pure and sleek: the cap represents a pebble found in a field of lavender at sunset. The bottle has a round and sensual shape and, as though it had just been flooded by the pure Provençal light, it seems to have absorbed its last rays. The bottle symbolizes all the force of Provence and the vibrant golden hues of a land where light has a unique value. Terre de Lumière by L’Occitane comes in two sizes: 50 ml and 90 ml.


Organiser - Cosmoprof Asia Ltd

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Sales Office Asia Pacific: UBM Asia Ltd - Hong Kong - ph. +852.2827.6211 - fax +852.3749.7345 -cosmasia-hk@ubm.com Sales Office Europe, Africa, Middle East, The Americas: BolognaFiere S.p.a. - Bologna - Italy - international@bolognafiere.it for info: ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 - international@cosmoprof.it | Marketing and Promotion: BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. - Milan - Italy - ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 - info@cosmoprof.it


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A history of make-up expertise for timeless icons. Top performance with latest generation formulas and delivery system. For a timeless perfection, which conveys an authentic beauty: Yours. Astra creates Icon. A beauty project, in collaboration with laboratories and international make-up artists, to offer women moments and gestures of pure luxurious beauty and elevated performance.

ICON: BEYOND DESIRE. Toward the heart of our consumers with a range of “iconic� products born of an all-Italian expertise capable of combining creativity, innovation, passion and experience. Icon meets the hopes and expectations of the women who have decided to go further. Beyond style, beyond desire, beyond ambition.

ICON: A WINNING SYNTHESIS OF ITALIAN EXPERTISE. Icon is a Line of beauty icons with each detail taken care of for an incomparable luxury. Make-up products with timeless color and texture, like the authentic beauty of every woman. Icon offers women true, affordable, everyday luxury. Within the Icon excellence coexists a professional and artistic soul, quality and style. Icon is a winning synthesis of an all-Italian expertise.


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LAUNCH

DIAMOND INTERNATIONAL focuses on Italian brands with new fragrance licences

Diamond International – a young and competitive company based in Milan and belonging to the So.Di.Co. group present on the market for more than 20 years and a leader in the hair removal, haircare and other segments of the skin-cosmetic market – has been able to carve out an important role for itself in the masstige sector in a very short time, thanks to major partnerships in the world of fashion, lifestyle and sport. The licence projects – created in close collaboration between an excellent marketing and R & D team and the Sales area – have as their objective offering a high quality product, made with excellent and innovative formulations and with attention paid to every detail: from the fragrance to the packaging and the texture, the values and the style of the brand live on in the products. The brands under licence are MCS, Henry Cotton’s, New York Yankees, Mascalzone Latino, Tokidoki and Smemoranda, which have been joined in the past year by Mascalzone Latino Maestrale and Mascalzone Latino Barba. The latest new addition is the Ducati licence.

Of great importance is the brand new “1926” line, which is the result of a licence agreement with Ducati Motor Holding, of which the motorbikes are an undisputed synonym of excellence, technology, innovation and style. “1926” was the year the historical Bologna-based motorbike company was founded and identifies the new line for men,made up of Eau de Toilette 50 ml and 100 ml, shower gel and a deodorant spray. The fragrance is capable of evoking

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emotion, passion and character, but also style and elegance, just like the red motorbikes made in BorgoPanigale. The top notes have boldly aromatic accents, contrasted with the sparkling freshness of mandarin and the sharp hints of bergamot. In the heart the classicism is renewed and flavoursome cacao notes are sensually clad in the timeless elegance of lavender accompanied by the strictness of geranium. In the drydown, functionality

With a new entry: the Ducati fragrance

and aesthetics meet with the impressive force of cedar and the intense amber notes which, enveloped by vanilla and tonka bean, give the fragrance great comfort. The “1926” bottle also recalls the sleek and seductive shapes of the Bologna company’s motorbikes for a timeless style. Black – elegant and deep – merges with silver to express innovation, while red – strong and intense – recalls the passion for high performances.


LAUNCH

Mascalzone Latino Maestrale, like the wind that blows from the north-west, is the name of the line by Diamond International, made up of Eau De Toilette, Shower Gel and Deodorant Spray. Fresh and sensual, Mascalzone Latino Maestrale is a symbol of modernity and appeal, The aquatic top notes are combined with the more aromatic heart of the notes of Bay, Jasmine and Amber. The warmth of Patchouli and Oak Moss seal the fragrance with an intense and masculine drydown.

In line with the lifestyle trends where we are seeing a return of the passion for the barber style, Diamond offers the new line with a vintage style Mascalzone Latino Barba. Three products – conditioners, oil and wax – for grooming beards where the packaging also recalls New York barber shopswith their old-style flavour. The products are of top quality, designed to nourish male skin, keep beard and moustache tidy and to give a final touch with a soft texture pleasant to the touch.

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LAUNCH

ELITE BEAUTY where fashion and beauty crossover

Elite, the world’s leading model management agency, launches its own brand of skincare, make-up, haircare and fragrance.

Elite is an international icon of fashion, beauty and success. With the creation of the myth of supermodels, such as Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista, it became an emblem of style and rewriting the rules of contemporary beauty. Today this global brand has put its values into Elite Beauty, a line of Italian-made products that are as iconic, glamorous, edgy and aspirational as the original model agency, promising the appeal and expertise of the fashion world of which Elite is the undisputed icon. The Elite Beauty woman has a precise

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vision of herself, of her beauty and of her aesthetic credo. She does not want to look more beautiful but simply wants to be beautiful, in a way that is already hers, a way that is unique and different from all the others. She is vital, enthusiastic, curious and full of energy. Her youthfulness is her approach to life. She knows that beauty is not a question of luck but of constancy that has to be cultivated and nourished every day. The Elite Beauty woman has understood that looking after herself today is the best way to protect her beauty of tomorrow.


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She believes in her potential and wants to develop it as much as possible. She lives beauty subjectively, far from standards and stereotypes. The Elite Beauty products are highly performing and professional, sublimating the excellent know-how of the brand in the world of beauty. The products are all made in Italy because when talking about beauty, style and elegance, Italians have no rivals. With innovative formulas and packaging, the products form a full beauty programme, designed to become the must have of every woman and can anticipate beauty trends to satisfy every desire for beauty.

Skincare by Elite Beauty Skincare is essential and Elite Beauty has also created a line of highly performing and gentle products, suitable for women of all ages, based on the properties of poppy seed, in a perfect equilibrium between technology and nature. The products, rich in emollient, moisturizing and antioxidant properties, comprise Day Off 24 H (a moisturizing face cream in a version for normal to dry skins and one for normal to combination skins), a regenerating face booster, an eye contour cream, a two-phase eye make-up remover, a micellar cleansing water and a cleansing gel.

Elite Beauty Make-Up The Make-up Line is sensory, innovative and versatile, with beauty secrets now within every woman’s reach. For the beauty of the eyes, Elite Beauty offers mascaras to define and volumize, to lengthen and thicken as well as to promote growth and a top coat and a primer; eye liners, eye pencils, eye shadows with different effects (matte effect, luminous effect) in fashionable colours and eyebrow pencils. Lips are enhanced by different textures (Audacity, with an absolute creamy texture, Red Carpet, a sublime matte lipstick), glosses (Top Gloss with high shine), a lip liner and a lip pencil. The Elite Beauty Foundations are Close Up, a moisturizing natural foundation with SPF 15 or in a matte version and Easy Chic, a wet & dry compact foundation with SPF 15.

Haircare and fragrance Latest generation products make up the Elite Beauty haircare line: Kashmir, a shampoo for daily use and a conditioner and Velvet, a revitalizing shampoo and an intensely nourishing conditioner. Lastly, Elite Beauty also tells a story in fragrance: Pour Lui, an Eau de Parfum with a

The face line also includes a concealer (Perfect Touch), the compact Silk Powder, Sublime, a baked bronzing matte powder and Charme, a compact blush.

fresh-woody bouquet, which associates the toning freshness of citrus scents with the warm, sensual and persistent notes of soft wood and musk. The women’s fragrance, Pour Elle is an extraordinary and complex construction which releases piquant, fresh and sweet notes and brings back to mind sensations and memories of the past.

The Elite Beauty range is completed by a full range of POS merchandising accessories, samples and carrier bags.

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EVENTS

Salvatore Ferragamo awards the photographersParfums of the Scent of Life Talent Awards An open piazza: a symbolic place of Italian culture and lifestyle.

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An evening in a spirit of talent and Italian character was organized last night by Salvatore Ferragamo Parfums within the exhibition Interni Material Immaterial Università degli Studi di Milano. In the elegant setting of the Ca’ Granda cloister, the art installation Lo Scalone, created by architect Michele De Lucchi, was the exceptional stage of the prize-giving for the three winners of the Scent of Life Talent Awards international competition. “Lo Scalone” sketch by Michele De Lucchi


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Michele De Lucchi and Luciano Bertinelli

Award winning photo - Michele Rallo

“Lo Scalone” inside the Università Statale of Milan

Uomo Salvatore Ferragamo fragrance – an elixir of pure Italian style

The event was hosted by Fulvia Visconti Ferragamo and Angelica Visconti, together with Luciano Bertinelli, CEO of Ferragamo Parfums. Later on, the arches of the magnificent Western Loggia welcomed numerous young socialites for an elegant party of contemporary allure, on the notes of a very special deejay, baroness Nicola Winspeare Guicciardi. Scent of Life, concept of the new men’s fragrance Uomo Salvatore Ferragamo – an elixir of pure Italian style. #scentoflife Astrid Walman, Antonio Citterio and Terry Dwan

The three final award winners: Nadejda Bostanova, Michele Rallo, Francesco Zinno

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Discover more on parfums.ferragamo.com


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nio - hydran technology

Visit us at: TFWA ASIA PACIFIC EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE BOOTH R21 BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST HALL S2 BOOTH E28 TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE

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I y skin m

BY HSA group cosmetic division

ESLABONDEXXSKIN.COM

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COMPANY

beauty HSA S.p.A.meetswhere innovation

From hair care to skin care: HSA introduces its latest breakthrough news

HSA Group is a European leader in the development of innovative products in the beauty industry. Established more than 30 years ago with its core business in hair color, the company extended to hair care and skin care, becoming a real marketing partner with a 360° approach to beauty. HSA offers a full-service partnership to marketers who strive to launch their own brands, and developed over 100 brands in more than 90 countries. However, each product range has its own story, based on a specific concept. Research and Development laboratory works daily to find out innovative technologies, create highly effective formulas and develop revolutionary products. Innovation, quality and a solid know how make HSA a top player in the cosmetic industry. In addition to providing private label product services, HSA also offers its own hair care brands - Nouvelle and Silky - plus the innovative Eslabondexx, which is becoming increasingly bigger with the continuous introduction of new products.

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After the great success of Eslabondexx and Eslabondexx Color, HSA is launching at Cosmoprof Bologna 2017 a new product, which can for sure be defined the most exciting news in the cosmetic industry since years. The company laboratory’s constant search for innovation gave birth to Eslabondexx Bleach, the bleaching powder that revolutionizes the concept of bleaching. Thanks to its strengthened Eslabondexx formula it allows several consecutive bleaching services in one day (if applied on healthy hair; up to three bleaching services; before performing several consecutive bleaches, carefully evaluate any treatments that have been done previously), keeping the hair at its best. The highest lightening power and maximum protection are hold in a single product: Eslabondexx Bleach can light up to seven tones while protecting

and restructuring for incredibly blonde hair, that are at the same time healthy, resistant and stronger. Moreover, the Eslabondexx range for an “amazing blonde” also includes a collection of tonalising creams, Eslabondexx Hair Toners, available in six amazing nuances.


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As far as skincare is concerned, great changes are occurring. Passion and the deep expertise in skincare allowed the company to extend its business from product development on behalf of third parties to the launch of its own skincare brands: HSA Group Cosmetic Division, a new company branch completely dedicated to skin care, has been established and will make its debut at Cosmoprof Bologna with outstanding own brands.

Dedicated to those living the city and loving their skin, Pollution Free is the complete anti-pollution range with Zeolite, a volcanic origin mineral purifying and protecting the skin from polluting agents and impurities that every day build up on the epidermis surface causing dehydration, dark spots, skin ageing and damaging the skin. HSA uses the power of nature to contrast pollution effects: Zeolite

purifies from fine dust, prevents polluting particles from accumulating in pores and removes impurities from the skin, on top of having strong antioxidant action. Pollution Free defends skin beauty every day, facing the effects of pollution with 8 products, ranging from cleansers to creams, preserving not just the skin but also the cutaneous barrier that protects the epidermis from external attacks.

Another novelty by HSA Group Cosmetic Division has been developed according to the same philosophy of Eslabondexx Hair. Elsabondexx Skin is a young, lively and funny skincare range dedicated to young women who want to express themselves, without giving up their skin wellness thanks to Nio-Hydran technology. With very sensual notes, coming from fruit and flowers, the skin is embraced with an amazing and long lasting scent. You can discover by yourself, scraping on the Eslabondexx Skin brochure that you find with Export Magazine.

we will EXHIBIT AT:

TFWA ASIA PACIFIC, Singapore: Booth R21 BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE-EAST, Dubai: Hall S2 - Booth E28 57


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THE FIRST In the past two years, The First, based in Milan, has been implementing a precise strategy of renewal of the brands in its portfolio, Arrogance which it owns and GianMarcoVenturi of which it holds the licence, both regarding the fragrances and their packaging, and for the price positioning, in the so-called masstige range. The thread running through each project is to create products characterized by the highest quality and attention to every detail, with a retail price where the quality price ratio is enviable. This is what the Italian market is asking for. The totally Italian sartorial quality with which the fragrances of the two brands are presented was particularly appreciated by buyers visiting the Tax Free Show in Cannes and recently at Cosmoprof in Bologna, showing high potential for the Milanese company.

ARROGANCE The emblematic brand of alcoholic perfumery in the 1980s, it is still a point of reference in the history of Italian fragrances. Thanks to the success achieved with the first fragrances, Arrogance Pour Femme and Arrogance Uomo, of which the shell packaging was highly innovative for the time, the brand has in time consolidated its position, earning the position of market leader. The evolution over the years has developed keeping the value of Italian tradition unchanged and the brand’s philosophy is still based on the continuous search for quality, together with proposals that are always in line with market trends, good taste and elegance in the choices of the packaging. All this is according to an “attentive” quality/price ratio. Based on a spirit of renewal and modernization, Arrogance proposes once again the historical launches of Femme and Uomo

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with a major restyling which, by keeping the connotative shell structure, updates the shapes and a sensitive attention to the colour choice and the touch effect (a fabric effect for Femme, leather effect for Uomo). The classic 75 ml is doubled, offering the market the new

sizes of 50 ml and 100 ml and a light, sleek and modern graphic design, enhances the packaging, highlighting the brand ad the line to a maximum. The proportions of the boxes, a real treasure chest for these jus, adorned by a new opaque finish, are also important. The Arrogance Femme line consists of: Eau de Toilette Natural

new strategies and projects for the brands in The First’s portfolio

Spray 100 ml, Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 50 ml, Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 30 ml, a 20 ml travel size in an elegant shell, Shower Gel 400 ml, Body Lotion 400 ml and Deodorant Spray 150 ml Arrogance Uomo offers Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 100 ml, Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 50 ml, Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 30 ml, a 20 ml travel size in an elegant shell, After Shave Natural Spray 100 ml, After Shave Balm 75 ml, Hair & Body Shampoo 400 ml and Deodorant Spray 150 ml. The graphic restyling also involves the other lines, proposing a new graphic design for Arrogance Homme and Arrogance Blue, special in its minimalism and in the opaque effects of the materials. Both lines consist of Eau

de Toilette Natural Spray 100 ml, Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 50 ml, Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 30 ml, After Shave Natural Spray 100 ml, Hair & Body Shampoo 400 ml and Deodorant Spray 150 ml. All the men’s lines also include a new spray can for the deodorants which is more massive in the proportions and enhanced by opaque finishes. The Arrogance family is completed by the latest proposal for women, Arrogance Passion. With a strong colour and a high impact, the fragrance is contained in an elegant bottle with soft and irregular lines, available in the 50 ml and 100 ml sizes, as well as a 15 ml travel size in an elegant shell, accompanied by the bath line made up of Shower gel 400 ml, Body Lotion 400 ml and Deodorant Spray 150 ml.


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GIANMARCO VENTURI This long-established brand linked to the name of the Florentine designer who, since the 1980s, has been able to conquer with a style that is unique, charismatic and trendy, in fashion as well as in accessories. The style is rigorous but eclectic, classic and traditional in the respect of the guidelines of Italian design, but also innovative in the details and in the use of accessories. The GianMarco Venturi, fragrance therefore addresses a woman and a man with a thousand facets to their character, in continuous evolution. She is the woman of yesterday and of today, a woman with a thousand faces and multiple ways of being. And her man, courting and courted, classic in the label but audacious in acting.

Gianmarco Venturi today shines the spotlight on the main lines, gmv woman, Girl, Femme and the latest one, OUD. The continuous research and attention for details now leads the two established lines, GianMarco Venturi Woman and Girl to an elegant and essential effect of colours and contrast with which the two lines offer their relative versions Eau de Toilette and the more precious Eau de Parfum. In particular, The First now presents the new graphic design for the GMV Girl Eau de Toilette packaging which, while keeping the colour code, takes advantage of the emblem of the G for an elegant green-white chromatic contrast. For the recent women’s proposal, GianMarco Venturi Femme offers a refined and elegant bouquet in a bottle with simple lines, enhanced by the shades of the most

seductive violet. The line is made up of Eau de Parfum 100 ml, Eau de Parfum 50 ml, Eau de Parfum 30 ml, Shower Gel 400 ml, Body Lotion 400 ml and Deodorant Spray 150 ml. The latest creation, GMV OUD. Intriguing and mysterious, the GianMarco Venturi man takes on a new charge of seduction. Minimalist and refined, in a packaging with strict and impressive lines, a jus with strong tones emerges, a mixture with a “smoky” character, emphasized by the preciousness of Oud, all in a box with an opaque finish with exquisite silver details. The line is made up of Eau de Toilette Natural Spray 100 ml and 30 ml, Hair & Body Shampoo 400 ml and Deodorant Spray 150 ml. Alongside Oud, there are the GianMarco Venturi ESSENCE and HOMME SPORT lines with which it makes up the range of fragrances by GianMarco Venturi “FRAMES”.

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INTERVIEW

The unstoppable ANCOROTTIgrowth and important future objectives of the COSMETICS well-known Crema-based company INTERVIEW WITH RENATO ANCOROTTI, President

There is some important news from Ancorotti Cosmetics: the entrance of a private equity fund for 30% to accompany the double-digit growth and the purchase of a 30,000 square metre industrial unit, formerly of Olivetti. EXPORT MAGAZINE: Ancorotti Cosmetics continues to grow, a figure that is confirmed each year… RENATO ANCOROTTI: Doubledigit growth last year with + 65%, and this year, after the first three months, we are at + 35%. Our objective, which in my opinion is completely feasible, is to go from the 72 million of 2016 to 100 million at the end of the year. In the meantime we have carried out two important operations: we have purchased an industrial unit next to Ancorotti Cosmetics,

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built by the architect Zanuso with the collaboration of the architect Renzo Piano. It is a work of industrial architecture that is of great value and which for many years belonged to Olivetti the place where the leading typewriters of the well-known Turin-based brand were made. We decide to renovate this building, in Crema, with the collaboration of the architect Marco Ermentini, who also collaborates with Renzo Piano, to restore prestige to what was a symbol of Italian beauty. The concept is to offer continuity between those who produce beauty one way and those who produce it in another way. If it is true what Dostoevsky said, that “beauty will save the world”, we like to think that, as the concept of beauty is very wide, there is not a great difference between the sense of beauty that comes from the aesthetic, design, well-being or from other arts. Well-being is also when employment is ensured, allowing families to look towards the future without anxiety. We expect the works will last for about a year and a half, and I can already anticipate that we will be evaluating energy solutions with

a zero impact on the environment. Thanks to the Brown reaction, it will be possible to have water enter one system by making energy leave it. The second event that, together with the new industrial unit, will allow us to grow further in our business and to increase employment is the decision taken at the start of 2017 to open 30% of our capital to a private equity fund, in a club deal. The investment fund, made up only of individual people, is called White Bridge. The greatest investors are Ronald Spogli, former US ambassador to Italy, of Italian descent, Francesco Loredan from Venice, Clemente Corsini, from Tuscany, President of the Fund and Marco Pinciroli, Managing Director of the fund. The other 70% remains in the hands of the Ancorotti family. EM: What are the numbers of Ancorotti Cosmetics concerning employment? RA: We can mention some: 372 people employed, with a majority of women, who are 65% of the total. In 2016 we confirmed 90 people with temporary contracts and this year we added another 40, which is fundamental to give a sense of reprieve to the economic situation in our area.

The average age is 36 and we have 15 different nationalities, with the perspective of lowering the average age and increasing the number of nationalities. EM: What can you tell us about Ancorotti and certifications? RA: For some time now we have had the Recognition of Excellence of Certiquality, Certificate of managerial Excellent obtained by reaching the goal of certification for the Quality, Environment and Safety Management Systems in conformity with the standards ISO 9001, ISO 14001, BS OHSAS 18001. In addition to these, we also have GMP certification, we are working on Halal certification and we are about to obtain FDA accreditation. We are also continuously checked by international bodies which examine the social questions of the company for the respect of workers’ rights. In order to grow, from every point of view, nothing can be left to chance, starting from the company welfare. As we are third party manufacturer/ contract manufacturer (no private label), it is essential that the supply chain which we are a part of, made up of all our suppliers, guarantees the same quality that we provide to the client.


INTERVIEW

EM: Is it also thanks to all these requisites that your international customers are expanding and what are the markets where you intend most developing your presence? RA: Absolutely yes. We sell assured, not only perceived quality; we guarantee that the formula and manufacturing processes lead to obtaining a safe product. We are focusing very much on the American market, where we are evaluating whether to open a branch to provide a more thorough service to large companies, with a filling service; we are not of the idea of producing locally, because it will be difficult to provide the same standards of quality as those obtained at our headquarters. EM: From mascara you have gone on to the production of various categories of cosmetic products; does growth also come from the extension of the production range? RA: We have three drivers of growth, the first is the share award by our customers, the second how many market shares we can acquire with the new product categories lipsticks, foundations etc., and the third is the conquest of new customers. We are recording great growth in mascara, with which we supply the most important brands in the world in outsourcing. If we consider that this article is often produced in-house, the result is really surprising.

EM: Has mascara already expressed itself in full or is progress still possible from the technological point of view? RA: I believe it is important to increasingly perfect the production techniques to provide an increasingly stable product. Mascara is one of the most difficult products in make-up as it is an emulsion with the presence of water which can increase its viscosity in time. Changes in temperature and the journey of the cosmetic in the various phases of storage can alter the conditions of the product. The important thing is that, while undergoing important thermal shocks, at ambient temperature the product regains its performance. From the point of view of the evolution of mascara, we can only work on new performances provided by new and more advanced raw materials, brush or wiper. I do not think we can change the gestures in using it. EM: One of the most recurrent themes in the past few years has been that of natural make-up. RA: Our research is reaching important goals in high percentages of natural raw materials. However, we have to reason attentively on the limits imposed at the level of the formulations by a so-called natural product, both concerning the number and type of raw materials used and

the influence on the shelf life of the products. In addition, some ingredients are demonized but they are useful and functional for preserving the product and, they are also contained in such low percentages that they cannot cause any harm to the consumer. EM: Still on the subject of the evolution of consumption, do you find a change in the attitude of consumers? Are they still looking for a fashion product or do they have other types of request? RA: There are two directions in the market: the fashion product and the traditional one. A fashion product is consumed at a different speed compared to the traditional one; for example coloured mascaras last less than black mascara; they are bought, used and thrown away in a period of three months at the most. The traditional product is the one that drives the market: private label cosmetic companies like ours are continuously investing in the long term, to implement its internal production capacities and absorb important market shares. A solid company is a guarantee for itself and for its customers. In the future there will be less and less room for improvisation and for fluctuating manufacturers, characterized by dangerous up and down peaks.

EM: Ancorotti Cosmetics was at Cosmopack again this year, with a prestigious stand that fully represents your image and company. RA: For us it is a rendezvous not to be missed, and the whole company works on its organization from the beginning of the year. It is my daughter Enrica, together with the whole team, that works on making our stand the most welcoming place for our customers. As well as meeting our existing customers, Cosmopack allowed us to meet new potential customers as well this year, no fewer than 135, especially from Europe, Russia and the USA but also from other emerging countries. This confirms our vocation for export, which today represents 87% of our turnover. EM: You also received an important award‌ RA: Yes, we received the Cosmopack Wall 2017, the prize for cosmetic innovation, for the Design category. We won with the extruded powders, super-metallic powders, with a very high degree of pearl, which through a particular process, allow creating attractive and very complex designs, real works of art made with make-up!

C.S.

Ancorotti Cosmetics stand at Cosmopack Bologna

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EVENTS

COSMOPROF WORLDWIDE 50 years BOLOGNA young Italy’s leading international show on beauty and cosmetics celebrated its first half-century this year

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For the fiftieth year running, Bologna became the planet’s capital of beauty with Cosmoprof Worldwide, the leading event for the professional beauty industry and this year confirmed its international vocation more than ever. A record number of international visitors attended the event, with +16% of foreign professionals compared to last year;

2,677 exhibiting companies from 69 different countries. There were 29 national pavilions to increase the international profile, representing countries from Australia to Soain, from Indonesia to Chile and from Japan to Turkey. For the first time, Argentina, Chile, Japan, Latvia and the United Arab Emirates/Dubai had their own pavilions.


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The excellent results of the International Buyer Program confirmed that this tool to facilitate business meetings between companies and buyers and distributors, is becoming increasingly popular with 9,000 meetings scheduled.

This year also marks a new phase of international expansion. Thanks to collaboration and partnerships with the Italian Ministry of Economic development and

the ITA (Italian Trade Agency), Cosmoprof Worldwide will also be cooperating with Iran Beauty & Clean, the main event for the sector in the Gulf region and Middle East, as the exclusive international agent for the 24th edition in April. In September, Cosmoprof will start working with Feira Belleza y Salud in Bogota, Colombia, opening up interesting perspectives for Latin America and looking ahead to 2019, a new project to cover India is being developed. One of the most popular innovations of this year’s Cosmoprof Worldwide was Cosmoprime, the special area with 151 exhibitors, 81% of whom from abroad, focused in retail channels positioned in a specific market segment, from high-end mass market to prestige and niche perfumery.

The latest trends were presented in the Extraordinary Gallery, the new growing segments such as multiethnic beauty were presented by Tones of Beauty and the round tables of CosmoTalks presented insights into the world of retail and the future of the beauty market. Lastly, the Perfume Factory was a journey into the production process of a fragrance. The celebrations continued with the exhibition “50 Anni Belli”, curated by the Milano Fashion Library with the supervision of Carlo Montanaro: images of prestigious Italian and foreign magazines showing the changes in cosmetics, make-up and hairstyles since the 1960s.

COSMOPROF TRENDS Beautystreams, the renowned global beauty trends forecasting agency, curated a report on the 50 products exhibited at Cosmoprof Worldwide 2017 that reflect nine major trends in the field of beauty. The trends range from Selfie-Ready, to achieve flawless skin instantly, to Viva Vegan, in response to the increasing demand for vegan cosmetics, from Sensoriality, to meet the demand for sensorial and emotional experiences, to it’s a Man’s World, reflecting the increasingly sophisticated products for men, from Hygge, the Danish trend of well-being which has led to products with rich and enveloping textures to help relax and restore skin and body, to Smart Beauty Devices, from Urban Shield, anti-pollution and urban detox products, to Hypersensitive, and from Just Me, the trend of custom-blended bespoke beauty products to Neon Beauty, colourful and fluorescent products that come alive in the dark.

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW WITH ENRICO ZANNINI, DIRECTOR OF COSMOPROF WORLDWIDE

EXPORT MAGAZINE: The 2017 edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna stood out for some important events, including the celebration of the 50th birthday of the show. On this occasion, a limited edition of a fragrance was produced, of which the various phases of conception, production and packaging were shown during the event. Can you tell us about the organization of this on-site event, in its various phases? ENRICO ZANNINI: The special project of The Perfume Factory – powered by Cosmopack was produced in collaboration with the Accademia del Profumo and Cosmetica Italia. The Perfume Factory accompanied the visitor on a real journey through the production chain of a fragrance: from the olfaction to maceration, from filtration to filling, packaging and cellophane wrapping.

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All the production phases were produced thanks to the collaboration of companies of the leading production chain of the sector: ICR, Bormioli Luigi, Candiani, Aptar, Ima Group, Coven Egidio, Pusterla 1880 and Industrial Box. Thanks to the contribution of these companies, in the area set up in COSMOPRIME in pavilion 19, a limited edition fragrance was produced, made by the “nose” Luca Maffei. It is a cologne which, in a contemporary and sophisticated reinterpretation thanks to the elegant tones of Florentine iris, exalts and tells a story which includes the Italian tradition and the technical innovation of the essence companies belonging to the Accademia del Profumo which, for the first time, worked together for this exclusive project. The production process was certified ISO 22716 and Carbon footprint by Certiquality. EM: Cosmoprime was the major new few feature of the show; a new concept and many new initiatives in pavilion 19 dedicated to retail, to talks and to the international buyers’ lounge. What type of feedback have you received from the market? EZ: Cosmoprime has recorded excellent results. 151 companies took part, 81% of which were foreign and coming from 28 different countries. We had an excellent affluence of professional operators not only

at the display stands, but also at the CosmoTalks, the convention sessions organized with the main trend agencies and trade associations at international level. The special areas in Cosmoprime aroused great interest, which gave the operators the chance to experience the new trends for the retail world: Tones of Beauty brought to Italy for the first time the companies specialized in multi-ethnic beauty products, in particular “Black& Brown”, while the Extraordinary Gallery gave visibility to the companies of prestige and niche perfumery. EM: You have announced a pan of renovation for the trade fair pavilions. When will work start and will they cause temporary changes to the layout of the show? EZ: The works to upgrade the exhibition area will start by the end of June 2017. For the next editions, there will be modifications to the exhibition layout, certainly improvements. EM: Do you have any other important innovations for 2018? EZ: For 2018 the objective still remains the same; to continue to offering operators and the companies of the trade the best solutions to increase the opportunities for networking and for business. This is the main characteristic of Cosmoprof and its international network. C.S.


MARCH 2018

16 -19 COSMOPACK 15-18 COSMOPRIME 15-18

Organiser BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. - Milan - Italy ph. +39.02.796.420 fax +39.02.795.036 info@cosmoprof.it

BOLOGNA (ITALY) F A I R

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INTERVIEW

BELLAOGGI a confident answer to the requirements of international markets Interview with Adriano Ripari, Export Director of Bella Oggi

EXPORT MAGAZINE: BellaOggi is today more than a promise, it is a consolidated reality abroad as well. What are the reasons for this success? ADrIANO RIPARI: We can effectively say now that our efforts to create a network representing the countries that follow the BellaOggi brand have given excellent results. The reasons for its growth in the past few years consist mainly of the awareness of the company of the potential of the brand and the need to structure the expansion abroad with a highly competent and efficient work group. From this point of view, the opening of the Milan office is the emblem of the internationalization of the brand, as Milan is a natural junction which also allows us to be closer to all our customers, both current ones and potential ones.

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In addition, the recent reinforcement and development in Italy, reaching about 2000 points of sale, lays the basis for a more effective planning of activities, fostering a more constant development abroad as well. EM: Considering the number of countries where you are present, how do you manage to reconcile such different requirements? AR: Undoubtedly, with countries that range from Brazil to Russia and from Dubai to Estonia, the need to have a range that can be appreciated and distributed everywhere is very important both for the distributors and the company. The advantage of having this range of companies consists of the continuous feedback that we have with them

and which allows us optimize our colour range in real time. In some countries, for example, we have to implement on some products – in particular the foundations – policies of extension of the colour ranges, both towards darker complexions for some countries and fairer ones for others, even though they are countries which are not geographically distant as could be expected. EM: What is your strategy in terms of product? AR: Having completed a first phase of construction of harmony of the basic range, our Marketing Dept. is now concentrating mainly in two directions: the first is to make, always according to the high standards of quality of the brand, products with a wide distribution and rotation which can meet the needs of all our distributors. The second direction is that of creating products which, either because they are

innovative or because at the centre of the most glamorous trends of the moment, can please, on the one hand, the consumers most attentive to and in search of new products and, on the other, consolidate the image of BellaOggi as a brand that can create traditional high rotation products and at the same time is capable of keeping abreast of the times. EM: In practical terms, how do you adapt your commercial strategy to countries that are so very different from one another? AR: The countries that meet our brand for the first time learn straight away that the path that will lead them to being BellaOggi distributors will be made together in a climate of great collaboration and competence. We accompany the customer from the very first moment, sharing some tools that allow both of us to understand the best way of entering their market.


INTERVIEW

Usually we start from an analysis of the market competition, both in terms of positioning and retail price, with a methodology that we have developed that lets us identify the exact

positioning of our product on the market. This leads to a sequence of operations which have now been amply tested and allow us in a short time to decide on the best distribution strategy.

EM: What new products are you presenting? AR: The quality of the BellaOggi products is now clearly very high and the new products are increasingly performing and attractive.

The new launches are particularly focused and attractive and represent the best and most innovative products that we can offer on the market.

C.S.

ATTRAZIONE WET, a lipstick with very intense colour, with an ultra-glossy result. In this case too, we have a really new product which is already trendy: a stylo lipstick with a brand new and special applicator which, with a simple “click” releases the right amount of product for an application worthy of a make-up artist. Thanks to its hybrid formula, it offers the intensity of a lipstick, the shine of a lip gloss and the comfort of a lip balm, the colour is very intense and the result is very glossy.

STAY ON, an ultra-pigmented stylo eye shadow with a weightless texture that reveals a long-lasting pearly colour. Stay on means that the colour does not “move” and stays in place for hours: it is water-resistant and its most interesting characteristic is that, although it is very persistent, it does not settle in the creases of the eyelids, an anti-aesthetic problem which many women feel strongly about. A cream eye shadow that is easy to apply; with full and intense colour, it is easy to apply from the first application. A simple gesture for an impeccable result.

LIP SHADOW, a real lipstick in powder for the most matte effect possible. It does not dry the lips, it does not migrate, the colour is long-lasting leaving an opaque, matte and velvety effect and which is comfortable even hours after application. The colour is very intense but allows creating delicate nuances by giving a 3D effect which redefines the volumes of the lips. This is the particularity of this lipstick which, thanks to its texture and the special sponge applicator, allows creating infinite looks.

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LAUNCH

POWER LINE BY CBNsuper-boosting serums

CBN Laboratories have developed a trio of products to boost the results of any treatment applied afterwards.

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LAUNCH

Three booster serums are the latest product from CBN, Cosmetique Bio Naturelle Suisse by Sirpea: with specific and highly effective activities, their treatment action is greater than anything possible today with normal treatments. Acide Hyaluronique Serum is based on Active Plat Stem Cells, with boosted hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, which means that it has a filling and moisturizing action in the different layers of the skin. This extraordinary serum fosters the natural production of collagen, controls the softness of the skin’s tissues and guarantees hydration and protection,

accentuating the results of any treatment that is applied afterwards. This serum is suitable for all skin types, including the most sensitive. Repulp/Lifting Serum is based on Active Plant Stem Cells and GammaAminobutyric Acid (GAMA), which inhibits the central nervous system from acting on facial expressions. Suitable for all skin types, it reduces the lines of expression due to ageing, replumps wrinkles and the structure of the skin. The result is “fuller” and firmer, soft and smooth skin, with a pleasant sensation of freshness and relaxation. The last product in the new Power Line

by CBN is Nouvelle Vie Serum, based on Active Plant Stem Cells and a mixture of 3 non-irritant Exfoliating Acids. It is suitable for dull and thickened skins or skins that are marked and impure. It eliminates dead cells, reduces the stratum corneum of the skin and rebalances excess sebum. Urea, Saccharose and Pollen Extract in the formula reconstitute the natural hydration of the skin and help the skin’s regeneration. The result is that the new cells come to the surface of the skin for a “new skin” effect and the skin looks smoother, fresher, more luminous and its regeneration is fostered.

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LAUNCH

SHISEIDO New additions to the Shiseido make-up offer emphasize glow and radiance

glow and radiance in its new make-up launches

Synchro Skin Glow Luminizing Fluid Foundation This new intelligent luminizing foundation offers 8-hour hydration and synchronizes with the skin for a healthy and brilliant glow. Formulated with Responsive Sensory Technology, Synchro Skin Glow adapts to every skin type, condition and tone, working with the skin’s individual qualities to beautify the complexion and maintain hydration. It is available in eight shades for travel retail and has an SPF of 20.

7 Lights Powder Illuminator Shiseido has updated its iconic Rainbow Face Powder for the modern woman. The new 7 Lights Powder Illuminator combines seven new light-reflecting pigments, offering seven entirely new face colour shades to lay with. The two key powders adjust to different skin conditions, smoothing rough skin and absorbing excess oil that causes sebum shine. This effectively resets dryness and stickiness so skin can remain comfortable. The smooth Dryness Reset Powder spreads lightly and evenly on dry areas of skin, and fits tightly to the surface, Similarly, the Stickiness Reset Powder spreads over oily parts of skin and absorbs excess sebum to keep make-up fresh. Lastly, it is infused with a pleasant floral green scent.

Full Lash MultiDimension Mascara This new panoramic silhouette mascara by Shiseido features the most lightweight formula in its history, creating voluminous lashes with a long-lasting curling effect. The panoramic brush has a flexible head that rotates 360° and bends up to a 30° angle to reach even the tiniest and hard-to-reach lashes, lifting and fanning them out from their roots. Full Lash Multi-Dimension Mascara is available in black and brown, as well as a waterproof version.

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The

E U Q I & N U ONLY

t n e v e p u e BtoB mak INENT

Centro Rebouรงas

April 2018

Feb 2018

Coming up soon

Asia

Center 415

24 & 25 Oct 2017

LosAngeles

Carrousel du Louvre

19 & 20 Sept 2017

SaoPaulo

Paris

22 & 23 June 2017

NewYork

T N O C R U O Y IN

Coming up soon

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FLASH NEWS LA MER’S NEW SERUM AWAKES VITALITY A DROP AT A TIME

The new Revitalizing Hydrating Serum from La Mer infuses skin with instant and all-day energy and hydration, helping skin attract and retain moisture while delivering key actives deep within the skin’s surface. It has been developed to create a mini-atmosphere of continuous hydration that floods skin with moisture to boost its natural healing processes, awakening the skin’s vitality one drop at a time. The secret of the new Serum lies in the action of the famous Miracle Broth of sea-powered energy with the new Deep Hydration Ferment and the new Youth Activating Ferment. They infuse the skin with the profound potency of seasourced ferments for a targeted, tailored transformation. The look of skin is transformed as skin is plumped from within for a smoother appearance and dullness and other visible signs of fatigue are replaced with new bounce and vibrancy.

THE NEW ESTÉE LAUDER EYE MASK THAT WORKS IN ONLY 10 MINUTES The first-ever new Advanced Night repair Concentrated recovery Eye Mask infused with Advanced Night Repair technology, plus a surge of concentrated moisture and soothing anti-irritants, rejuvenate the look and feel of the eye area. Innovative, triple-layer fresh-delivery system results in high-performance eye pads that are saturated on application to offer a sustained release, targeted delivery for eyes. Fine, dry lines are plumed as skin is drenched in moisture that lasts for hours. In just 10 minutes, eyes look radiant, rested and renewed and awake with fresh, luminous youth. The new Eye Mask delivers 20 times more of Advanced Night repair’s proven soothing, hydrating and repair ingredients to the delicate eye area. It has an instant soothing action and provides instant and long-lasting hydration. Each eye mask comes in a single-dose packet with two sealed chambers, The formula stays locked in one, while the pads are kept dry in the other. The formula is released on to the pads only at the time of application. Exclusive to Estée Lauder, the triple-layer mask is designed to drive the formula deep into the skin’s surface for a sustained release and targeted 10-minute treatment. With just one treatment the Eye Mask leaves the eye area feeling cool and refreshed, eyes look radiant, rested and renewed and skin is significantly soothed. The Eye Mask comes individually and in packs of 4 and 8 masks.

L’ERBOLARIO: A CHAMPION OF SERVICE The Lodi-based company has been awarded the seal of quality by the German institute of Quality and Finance which each year draws up the list of “Champions of Service”, the companies that best satisfy their customers. Four hundred and seventy-five companies operating in Italy in seventy different sectors were examined. L’Erbolario came no. 1 in the “Health and Well-Being” sector, after the evaluation of the Ses (Service Experience Score), i.e. the level of customer satisfaction at every moment of the service from the first contact to after-sales service. Placed ahead of many very important cosmetic companies in its specific sector, L’Erbolario was also positioned in the first ten most virtuous companies, together with giants such as Amazon, Auchan and DHL. The Institute carried out 124,861 interviews and contacted 26,892 people, a representative sample of the whole Italian population. This prestigious award confirms once again that L’Erbolario is a company that puts its customers and their satisfaction at the centre of its work.

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FLASH NEWS A NEW HAND CREAM BY JO MALONE

COOL EYES BY BAKEL: A BOOSTED FORMULA FOR THE BEAUTY OF EYES Bakel’s eye contour product, Cool Eyes, has a boosted formula, improved applicator and updated packaging. This creamy emulsion has a draining and anti-ageing action on eyelids and the eye contour which reduces puffiness and under-eye bags thanks to its complex of antioxidant and vaso-constrictive active ingredients which act on the surface microcirculation and help the drainage of excess fluids. The eyes immediately look more rested and fresher, and the gaze takes on greater intensity. The creamy texture with a cool effect is absorbed completely and easily and is suitable for all skin types. The packaging is functional, with a double airless chamber to protect the formula from the light, changes i temperature and external agents. The spherical applicator in surgical-grade steel has been produced especially for Bakel to make application easier, ensure the purity of the product, respect the skin and help a draining and toning massage. The expiry date is also shown on the packaging as a further guarantee for the consumer. Like all Bakel products, Cool Eyes is 100% active ingredients without any useless substances and contains very high quality raw materials for beautiful skin.

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Jo Malone presents a new hand cream to soothe and soften hands. Geranium & Walnut Hand Cream has a lightweight, delicately scented formula with Apricot Kernel oil that is quickly absorbed, leaving hands moisturized and never feeling greasy. Crisp, vibrant Geranium is layered with the warmth of walnut. The sent has been developed to complement each and every Jo Malone London fragrance.

MICHAEL ANGOVE DESIGNS FOR JO MALONE SOAPS The renowned British artist and designer, Michael Angove, has designed five unique wrappers for five of the best-loved Jo Malone soaps: English Pear & Freesia, Lime Basil & Mandarin, Blackberry & Bay, Red Roses and Pomegranate Noir. Each fragrance is celebrated by the design dedicated to it by Michael Angove with his characteristically detailed attention to the plants, coming from his passion for gardening.


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EVENTS ARTISTIC PERFUMERY

The venue The Mall, in Piazza Lina Lo Bardi, part of the new development of Port Nuova in Milan, was the world capital of artistic perfumery from 23rd to 26th March, with the ninth edition of Esxence – The Scent of Excellence showcasing the creations of this sector from all over the world. There can be no doubt that the event is increasingly successful, this year attracting almost 7,500 visitors. They were able to discover the creations of 212 brands of artistic perfumery and niche cosmetics (in the Esxkin The Excellence of Beauty section).

ESXENCE artistic perfumery takes centre stage

The number of brands exhibiting increased by 3% compared to last year and were divided into 79 Main Brands - 113 Spotlights and 20 brands of cosmetics, and came from 16 different countries (Italy, France, UK, Spain, Germany,

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USA, Principality of Monaco, the Netherlands, Denmark, the United Arab Emirates, Switzerland, Croatia, Qatar, Oreland, Turkey and Saudi Arabia) for a foreign presence of over 70% (of which over 30% were French).

Milan was the capital of artistic perfumery for four days in March, with the ninth edition of Esxence, The Scent of Excellence

Visitors were also 5% more than in 2016, with operators representing 73% of the total, with 78% of professionals coming from abroad. The calendar of events offered 19 talks and meetings, addressing both professionals and enthusiasts, organized thanks to the contribution of authoritative international experts, authors of important publications and magazines, researchers and scholars, who analysed specific aspects of the sector but also evolutions, trends and innovations without forgetting its history and creativity. Special guest of this ninth edition, under the concept of the Garden of Eden, was the master perfumer Christophe Laudamiel, who presented his “Fragrance Manifesto”, the pamphlet “Liberté, Egalité, Fragrancité”.


ARTISTIC PERFUMERY EVENTS

The event was also the occasion for the announcement of the finalists of the 4th edition of the Art and Olfaction Awards, the prestigious prize awarded by the Institute for Art and Olfaction, based in Los Angeles. Esxence also took part in the first National Day of Fragrance, established by the Accademia del Profumo, on the day of the Spring equinox, 21st March. Esxence promoted the contest

#MemorieProfumate, exhibiting during the event the 10 winning photos, selected by the public, which best represented the emotions, memories and magic that fragrance can arouse. Maurizio Cavezzali, co-founder of Esxence and President of Equipe International, summed up the uniqueness of the event by saying it is “a unique occasion of its kind, combining business and contents, economic data

and cultural knowledge on the sector of Artistic Perfumery”, while Silvano Levi, co-founder of the event and President of the Technical Committee emphasized that “Esxence is today the only event in the world that can represent the research and development of projects of Artistic Perfumery, the success of which is made possible by the increasingly greater cooperation with the key players.”

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INTERVIEW ARTISTIC PERFUMERY

SAWALEF Express yourself through

enchanting perfumes Export Magazine meets Mr Nader Adam Ali, CEO at Swiss Arabian Perfumes Group.

We felt and knew that we had the experience and the expertise to do it, therefore we can consider it a sort of statement of our ability. EM: What about your positioning in the market? NAA: What we did was to finally put our energy into it, creating something truly luxury, although our positioning is going to be entry level niche, and our price point ranges from around 125€, up to around 175€. It is not ultra niche. It’s not so high as some of the other brands like the local brands you can find here. An Arabian gem, embodying the true features of a whole country, Sawalef now enters the world of the niche market with a precious, first-class line of fragrances. EXPORT MAGAZINE: We would like to ask you why you decided to enter into the niche business, since you are famous as Swiss Arabian for classic perfumes well established on the market? Nader Adam Ali: I think our ambition and aspiration started probably 5 or 6 years ago. We were a little bit inspired by all the niche perfumeries at that time in the world, and by renowned international brands. They were coming up with high end products, the so called “oud”. We already

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wished to launch a brand, we’ve been in the business for more than 40 years, and we realized that we technically knew how to make authentic products, sourcing high quality raw materials. We’ve been talking about it for years and years, and we didn’t get to it until finally two and a half years ago we understood the time had come. I must admit we were a little bit late, because as you know the niche market in the world has been booming globally at about a 40% rate per year, it’s a fast growing portion of the perfumery market. It’s something that we’ve been thinking about for a long time, all the people from the Middle East have done it, so we really wanted to be a part of it.

EM: This is a precise choice, why? NAA: We were inspired by competitors, honestly. We’ve been players in the UAE and GCC markets mostly in kiosks in the malls, it’s our strength; we have about 30 showrooms, however kiosks have always been our choice, and we’ve been the only one for years, until some competitors finally appeared on the horizon. The market started to become crowded, sometimes with products of questionable features, and at that point we really felt we were missing something and, moreover, we really had the know-how to produce top quality fragrances for this precious segment.

EM: And you proposed a brand new creation, relying on your experience. NAA: Yes, we decided to come up with a new brand, a completely clean slate, with no baggage and no history, with no connection with Swiss Arabian. Perfumers can now have much more fun, creating new things, free from the budget, free from previous constrictions. We are doing the best that we can, giving the perfume a new freedom of expression. And the name of the brand itself, Sawalef, means ‘express yourself through telling stories’. The logo is made by the name Sawalef, written in Arabic calligraphy. The whole purpose of the brand is to convey a common theme, we want to tell people that perfume is a means of communication, it’s another means of expressing yourself with no words. In this society you have Arab men and women who do not mix. This is a way of having an unspoken language, just passing through and smelling the fragrance, express yourself through the fragrance. Express your feelings and tell us about you. EM: There is a precise storyline behind the brand, tell us something more about it. NAA: The storyline is about all the stories you hear in your life.


ARTISTIC PERFUMERY INTERVIEW

The story has a theme in it, just like there’s one story inside of you, to express your inner self, your inner beauty. So in a certain way it’s about finding yourself. Everyone has something hidden inside, you just have to bring it out. Moreover, if you look at the bottle, it was inspired by Arabic words, and every word has a hidden meaning, communicating who you are. The product is Arabian 100%, and the logo itself was designed by my cousin. Actually the target is not the international market, but many international consumers are increasingly attracted by the Arabian world, and they might appreciate the authenticity of the fragrance, wishing to try something different from their usual tastes and preferences. At first we will approach our market, the one we know better. We may also present it at Esxence, to see the reactions and the acceptability. We could have done something ordinary, but we chose to create special bottles, unique boxes and logos. The perfume market is easy to get into, but we did not want to launch an ordinary product. We are presenting our identity, our authenticity, and we are unveiling it to the world. Again, we put a lot of effort into the packaging, therefore it reflects our oriental taste.

I hope it will appeal to the European taste. We wanted to take a risk, to express ourselves. We want to be recognized for what we are, standing out of the crowd. We believe our uniqueness will be recognized in the niche. Let’s say that we have our own personality, we dare to have it. EM: Did you dare with the fragrances as well? NAA: Yes, we considered other brands’ products, many of them are based on oud, they are inspiring each other. But we have a very high standard, we did not compromise on it. We wanted to create something new and have long been wondering how to make it properly. I admit we got it from our Swiss Arabian experience. Swiss Arabian has always been a pioneer in creating new fragrances. We’ve always been leaders in establishing new trends. And being copied has always been a sign of success. Thus, we experimented. We propose a White series, a light fragrance, more modern, more international. The Black one is more the fusion oriental, whereas the Gold series is about oud, and we’ll launch oud related fragrances.

We will launch 3 White, 3 Black and 1 Gold fragrance initially, with seven names. And we chose inspirational names, expressing qualities people wish to possess and to identify with. As a matter of fact, we took some risks, we dared to experiment hoping to be accepted. I have a particular defined taste, and I hope that connoisseurs of perfumes will appreciate. EM: Who did the fragrances? NAA: We used some of the largest companies, we provided them with a brand brief. Each one was supposed to give their suggestions and submissions. Then our perfumer together with some of our brand managers decided what we liked most. After this, we did some market testing. It’s a very long process. Multiple suppliers, multiple choices, so as to pick up the very best for our market. The oud fragrances are the only ones we created ourselves, since our perfumer is very experienced to mix the base correctly and according to our taste.

EM: Your expectation is to launch it first in the GCC? NAA: Yes, first we’re going to start in Dubai, in a premium location, hopefully with a single store, probably this coming June. We’ll also approach some of the leading malls. Our desire is to start off again in a showroom, but we’ll wait for it, because we’re entering the level niche So we’re trying to compete with someone who is already there. We aim at the premium position in the kiosk brand entry level niche. There are a lot of new companies, but most of these companies do not have the power to do it. We are well introduced in the industry, and we mean to challenge the main market leaders, so we have to invest in the proper way. And having been around for the past 40 years makes us aware of how to do it. EM: Will this affect the Swiss Arabian business? Or will it help it? NAA: Let’s say that we’re trying to take back what is ours.

C.S.

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launch ARTISTIC PERFUMERY

SIMONE ANDREOLI AND L’OR DU SILLAGE

The golden trail in the imagination of Simone Andreoli is the foam of the sea tinged by the colours of the sunset and more precisely, the trail left by a yacht sailing off the French Riviera. This image has led to the creation of a fragrance that encloses the essence of the summer to celebrate the Côte d’Azur from the fly bridge of a yacht. It is the memory of a party at sea where the sound of the water joins that of happiness. This new chapter in the talented perfumer’s “Olfactory Diary” has fine citrus essential oils blended with woody and aromatic notes to reference the freshness and nature of the Mediterranean.

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Oak moss and leather write timeless moments, marked by an indefinable elegance that distinguishes the boats off the French Riviera. It is inevitable to feel the sun caressing the skin and feeling on board a yacht to admire the sunset over the sea. Petitgrain, bergamot, pink pepper and pine needles form the top of the olfactory pyramid with a sharp boost. The heart of the fragrance reveals rougher scents, with blond woods such as cypress and cedar wood, which give dryer and toning nuances. The base notes exalt elegance and sophistication, with precious notes of absolute of oak moss, patchouli and soft leather like that used for the interiors of luxury yachts. This Eau de Parfum is available in a 100 ml size and, like all Simone Andreoli’s creations, is the result of original olfactory combinations, which are not affected by passing fashions but exclusively identify the wearer’s individuality, detaching them from everything that is conventional and standardized.

The latest chapter in the Italian perfumer’s “Olfactory Diary” recalls the freshness and nature of the Mediterranean.


FLASH NEWS MICHAEL KORS PRESENTS TURQUOISE Michael Kors Turquoise is a new limited edition fragrance with fresh and floral notes and a modern edge. The top notes are invigorating and refreshing with Water Lily, Cucumber and Lime, introducing a floral heart of Jasmine and Wild Orchid evoking a dreamy sensuality. Smooth and unexpected, this combination is also unforgettably feminine. A unique notes, Fleur de Sel Accord, adds an exhilarating edge to Turquoise, Fleur de Sel is a prized element traditionally harvested from the clear blue waters off the French coast. It lends the fragrance a subtle kick evocative of the inimitable scent of salt in sea air. The sense of effortless luxury is completed by a drydown redolent of soft Ambrox and Musk and the iconic warmth of Cedar Wood. In keeping with its water-inspired sensibility, the soft blue fragrance is housed in a clear glass bottle with a turquoise finish and accentuated with a silver cap.

A NEW NOBLE AND SENSUAL JO MALONE COLOGNE INTENSE Myrrh & Tonka is the new Cologne Intense by Jo Malone that resonates with a nomad song of sand and smoke-threaded twilight. Master perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui has mingled the rich, potent sap of the Namibian myrrh tree, harvested by hand since time began, with whispers of warm almond and lush vanilla, fragrant gifts of the addictive tonka bean. Appealing to both men and women, it has a hint of lavender at the top and a floral note, creating a comforting and voluptuous opening. The big rich heart and the base note of myrrh is sensual, with the tonka bean bringing generosity. The result is a captivating and mesmerizing fragrance.

SPRING WILL BE SEXY WITH MICHAEL KORS The new limited edition spring fragrance by Michael Kors is Sexy Blossom, a floral, woody, musk fragrance inspired by the essence of spring and the season’s beguiling blooms. The top notes burst into blossom with sweet smooth Lychee adding sparkle to Rose Petals and the freshness of Dewy leaves. At the heart, Peony, Muguet and Freesia combine to complement Pink Orchid, prized for its beauty and exotic yet delicate warmth. The drydown evokes velvet woods – voluptuous Ambrox, supple Musk and enveloping Sandalwood. Michael Kors Sexy Blossom comes in the Michael Kors Collection bottle, The fuchsia-tinged juice and lush gradient of the carton captures the irresistible allure of a spring garden. It is available as a 100 ml eau de parfum for a limited period of time.

TOM FORD’S INVITATION TO POSITANO Sole di Positano Eau de Parfum is a green, citrus floral fragrance, bursting with a luxurious melange of sun-drenched citrus. The captivating new scent marks the seventh eau de parfum to join the Neroli Portofino Collection. The fragrance opens with a masterful blend of sunlit vibrancy. Italian bergamot, petitgrain bigarade (bitter orange), lemon and mandarin gleam with the sharp contrast of shiso leaf. Ylang ylang and sandalwood layer an immersive texture to the bright scent. The creamy yellow blossoms of ylang ylang bloom with the immense floral depth of jasmine absolute, muguet and orange flower. Soft musk and green moss deepen on skin with the classic sensuality of Tom Ford. Sole di Positano comes in a luminous aqua tourmaline glass bottle, finished with a gold-toned label and cord at the neck. The 50 ml and 100 ml bottles are reminiscent of sleek architectural chess pieces.

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FLASH NEWS

CARTHUSIA: THE NEW FRAGRANCE CAPTURES THE ESSENCE OF CAPRI The Carthusia fragrances, based on an age-old passion for perfumes with their origins nestling in legend and history, present a new composition by master perfumer Luca Maffei of Atelier Fragranze Milano: Gelsomini di Capri releases, as if by magic, a bouquet which takes us to the heart of the Mediterranean, in the olfactory chiaroscuros condensed on the island of Capri. The top notes of bergamot, lemon, mandarin, ginger and pink pepper immediately give the fragrance freshness and persistence at one and the same time. The images of sun-drenched gardens and orange and lemon groves looking on to the sea are the first to be imposed, almost like a tangible memory of precious moments. The senses are alert, ready to perceive the evolution of the fragrance. Jasmine Gradiflorum Absolute and Italian Broom mingle in the heart, along with Orange Blossom and Rose, which dialogue with ylang ylang as a sophisticated complement. In the base, the warmth of amber, vanilla and cashmere wood, lightened by hints of labdanum and musk seal the modulated sweetness of this fragrance. Gelsomini di Capri by Carthusia comes as a 50 ml Parfum, or Eau de Parfum in 50 and 100 ml sizes.

A NEW DKNY FRAGRANCE COLLECTION INSPIRED BY COLLABORATION WITH DONALD ROBERTSON

Be Delicious City Collection is the new Limited Edition Spring 2017 Fragrance collection created in collaboration with viral fashion illustrator Donald Robertson, the “Andy Warhol” of Instagram. Vivid geometric designs come to life on cartoons that house clear glass bottles with new tinted fragrances, The fragrances are also inspired by the various eclectic neighbourhoods of the Big Apple and the distinct fashionable personalities that inhabit them. The Chelsea Girl, in pink, is for the girl who enjoys beauty with a hint of mystery. Sparkling Apple, Black Rose Accord and Butterfly Orchid evoke an ethereal fee spirit while Musk leaves a soft addictive trail. The Brooklyn Girl, in blue, is a floral fruity fragrance for the girl inspired by fashion who loves to experiment with an eclectic mix of styles. Vibrant Blueberry adds playful energy to the Freesia and Jasmine heart, while the richness of amber exudes a sensual signature. The Nolita Girl, in purple, has an aesthetic influenced by underground street style and edgy icons of pop culture. Juicy Raspberry brightens the artistic heart of violet petals and Magnolia flower, while the creamy woody effect of Sandalwood adds a downtown chic vibe. Each is a real work of art as well as a contemporary and addictive fragrance.

A TORY BURCH FRAGRANCE INSPIRED BY A LOVE STORY Love Relentlessly, the new Tory Burch fragrance, has its origins in the courtship of the designer’s parents, “the most romantic couple she has ever known” and is an ode to an extraordinary love affair. During their courtship, her father would write notes to her mother but put them in the “Wanted” section of the local newspaper. He always signed them, “Love, Relentless”. They eloped and married and from that day were, in Tory’s mother’s words, “mad for each other”. Their passion for life and for each other is what inspired Tory in her collections and in this romantic new scent. Love relentlessly opens with Pink Pepper, Rose and Orris to evoke the excitement of love, and then reveals the warmth of Patchouli and Ambertonic to perfectly blend the classic with the modern. Unmistakably feminine in a jewel-like glass bottle with pink accents, the beautiful design is an invitation to love brilliantly – and relentlessly.

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USEFUL ADDRESSES Acqua di Portofino Blue Pollack Fabi - Hugh Parsons Panama - Pineider - Riva

Profumitalia s.r.l. Via A. Costa, 2 - I-20131 Milano tel. +39/02-45375660 info@profumitalia.net - www.profumitalia.it

Boutique

Garden Cosmetics Via Pigafetta, 20 I-28100 Novara tel. 039-0321/691232 - fax 039-0321/691874

Lubin

Lubin 3, rue du Roule - F-75001 Paris tel: +33-1/40677009 - fax +33-1/45021316

Acampora Profumi

Bruno Acampora Profumi B.A.P. s.r.l. Via G. Filangieri, 72 I-80121 Napoli tel. +39/081.401701 - fax +39/081.414162 www.brunoacampora.com

Bye Bye Racines

Bye Bye Racines 11 bis, avenue Victor Hugo - F-75116 Paris tel. +331/44050214- fax +331/897104909 contact@byebyeracines.com

Luciano Soprani

Luciano Soprani s.r.l. Via E. Morosini, 30 - I-20135 Milano tel. +39-02/54063270 - fax +39-02/54120345

Carla Fracci

Acqua di Genova Acqua di Portofino - Bruno Bozzini Contessa di Castiglione

Intercosma West Via Luigi Canepa, 2 - I-16165 Genova - Italy tel. 039-010/803808 - fax 039-010/804314 info@intercosmawest.it - www.intercosmawest.it

Carla Fracci Via Morosini, 30 - I-20135 Milano tel. 39-02/54063272 - fax 39-02/54189605

Caron

Mavive s.r.l. Via Altinia, 298/B I-30030 Dese (Venezia) tel. 39-041/5417771 - fax 39-041/5417798

Mojo

Air-Val Beverly Hills Fragrances

Air-Val Int. s.a. C/Miguel Servet, 27 E-08850 Gava (Barcelona) tel. 34-93/6355335 - fax 34-93/6629806

Parfums Caron 99, rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré - F-75008 Paris tel. +331/34235450 – fax +331/34235451 nguil@alesgroupe.com - www.parfumscaron.com

Green Generation- Monotheme Nautilus - Pal Zileri -Piazza di Spagna Pino Silvestre - Police The Merchant of Venice - Tiziano - Zippo

Carrera

Molinard

Alyson Oldoini Parfums

Luciano Oldoini s.r.l. V.le Geno 10 - I-22100 Como Show-room: Via Montenapoleone, 21 I-20122 Milano www.alysonoldoiniparfums.com

Almon srl Viale Sondrio, 7 - 20124 Milano - Italy tel. +39 02 84086374 - fax +39 02 84086354 e-mail: info@almon.it - www.almon.it

Ars Parfum GmbH D-50667 Koeln - Komodierstrasse 56-58 tel. + 49-221914088-0 - fax +49-221914088-10

Clinica Ivo Pitanguy Hanae Mori

Cosmétique & Parfum International 35 Quai de la Tournelle F-75005 Paris - France tel. +33-1/55420000 - fax +33-1/55420155

Parfums Molinard 60, boulevard Victor Hugo F-06130 Grasse tel. +334-92423322 - fax +334-89123068 export@molinard.com - www.molinard.com

Morgan - Salvador Dalì

Collistar

Collistar s.p.a. Via Pirelli, 19 - I-20124 Milano tel. +39-02/677503 - fax +39-02/6775454

Cofinluxe 6, Rue Anatole de la Forge F-75017 Paris tel. +33-1/55377172 - fax +33-1/46229827

Costume National

Beauty San s.p.a. Via Rimini, 37 - I-59100 Prato tel. +39-0574/43891 - fax +39-0574/438940 www.beautysan.net

Nesti Dante

Nesti Dante s.r.l. Via della Molina, 39 - I-50010 S.Donnino (FI) tel. +39-055/8739401/2 - fax 39-055/8739768

Coverderm Covermark

Farmeco Head Office: 11 Ag. Glykerios Str. - GR-11147 Athens, Greece tel. +30-20/2131701 - fax +30-20/2136036 Branch Office: Strada 6 Palazzo P1 Milano Fiori - I-20089 Rozzano (MI) tel. +39-02/89200150/167 - fax +39-02/89200371

Orlane

Orlane 12-14, Rond Point des Champs Elysées F-75008 Paris tel +33-1/44357200 - fax +33-1/44357280

Paglieri

Paglieri s.p.a. S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 - fax +39-0131/6186663

Parfums du Château de Versailles

CFFC - Conservatoire Français des Fragrances et Cosmétiques 12-14 Rond-Point Des Champs Élysées F-75008 - Paris tel.: +33-1-53531631 - fax: +33-1-53531400 contact@cffc-paris.com - patricemichel@cffc-paris.com www.cffc-paris.com

Parfums Pergolèse Paris

Parfums Pergolèse Paris 59, Rue De Miromesnil - F-75008 Paris Tel. +33-(0)1/53581402 or 1435 www.parfums-pergolese-paris.com

Payot

Laboratoires Dr. N G Payot 10, boulevard du Parc - F-92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine tel. +331/55625454 contact@payot.fr - www.payot.com

Ancorotti Cosmetics

Ancorotti Cosmetics s.r.l. Via del Commercio, 1 I-26013 Crema (CR) tel. +39/0373-876811.21 - fax + 39/0373-876811

Ars Mirabile - CBN

S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. Via della Liberazione, 56 I-20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) tel. +39-02/98280925 - fax +39-02/98280975

Astra

Giufra S.r.l. Via Veneto, 152 - I-06059 Todi (PG) tel. 075.8987455 - fax 075.8987691

Axis - Hoops - Elanzia Esprit de Versailles - Mercedes Monaco - Yujin

INCC Group 85, avenue de Saint Cloud F-78000 Versailles tel. +33/1-39670671 - fax + 33/1-39670672 www.inccgroup-parfums-com

Artdeco

Artdeco Cosmetic Group Gaussstrasse 13 D-85757 Karlsfeld tel. 49/8131-390100 - fax 49/8131 390129

diego dalla palma diego dalla palma RVB Lab

Cosmetica s.r.l. Via S. Carlo 28 I-40023 Castel Guelfo (BO) tel. +39-0542/670911 - fax +39-0542/670911

Exclusive division: Braccialini - Byblos Gandini - Transvital Prestige division: Australian - Bionsen La Gazzetta dello Sport - Lola Looney Tunes - Renato Balestra Rockford

Eurocosmesi Via Gobetti, 4 I-40050 Funo di Argelato (BO) tel. 39-051/6649238 fax 39-051/6649248

Bois

Atelier Bois s.r.l. Via Ilio Barontini 22 I-50018 Scandicci (FI) e-mail: elisa.atelierbois.gmail.com www.bois1920.it

Aubade - Montana

Parfums Montana - Empire of Scents 4, Place Wagram - F-75017 Paris tel +33-1/42650072 - fax +33-1/42650074

Franck Olivier

Sodip 21, Boulevard Montmartre- F-75002 Paris - France tel. +33-1/40262020 - fax +33-1/42210888

Alessandro Dell’Acqua - Missoni Moschino - John Richmond Joseph Abboud - Naj Oleari

Euroitalia s.r.l. Via G. Galilei, 1 - I-20040 Cavenago Brianza (MI) tel. 39-02/95916.1 - fax 39-02/95916500

Fedua

Amarena Bella Oggi

Eurostyle s.p.a. I-80035 Nola - Interporto di Nola, Lotto D Blocco 4, Mod. 407/408 tel. +39-081/5108427 - fax +39-081/3158162 www.amarenamakeup.com - info@amarenamakeup.com

Fedua Cosmetics Via Moretto 27 - I-25122 Brescia tel. +39/030-2590833 commerciale@fedua.com - www.fedua.com

Filorga

Laboratoires Filorga 2-4 rue de Lisbonne - F-75008 Paris tel. +33 1 42939400 – fax + 331 42937965 guillaume.ledeme@filorga.com - www.filorga.com

Pupa Miss Milkie

Micy’s Company s.p.a. Via De Gasperi, 22 - I-23880 Casatenovo (LC) tel. +39-039/92341 - fax +39-039/89205859

Aquolina, Baldinini Paglieri 1876 Pink Sugar

Selectiva s.p.a. S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 - fax +39-0131/6186663

Giorgio Jäneke

Giorgio Jäneke s.r.l. I-20050 Veduggio (MI) tel. +39-0362/911010 a.r. - fax +39-0362/911100

Rancé

Armand Basi - Angel Schlesser Custo - Joaquín Cortés Mandarina Duck - Yekipé

IDESA-Angelini Group Via Augusta, 59-9 - E-08006 Barcelona tel. +34-93/2920891 - fax +34-93/2176881

Hello Kitty

Beauty & Care AG Hinterbergstrasse 26 - CH-6330 Cham tel. +41-41/783 8688 - fax +41-41/783 8687

Rancé & C. s.r.l. Via Lombardini, 10 - I-20143 Milano tel. +39-02/58100855 - fax +39-02/89401058

Sandalia

Alain Delon - Jaguar - Lalique Nikki Beach - Parfums Grès Ultrasun

Art & Fragrance SA Bühlstrasse 1 - CH-8125 Zollikerberg - Switzerland Direct +41-43/4994532 - Phone +41-43/4994500 fax +41-43/4994502 www.art-fragrance.com

Henry Cotton’s Ducati- Mcs -Monello Mascalzone NY League

Diamond International s.r.l. Via Foce Cesano,4/9 – I-60019 Senigalla (AN) tel. +39/071-6610226 – fax +39/071-6611104 info@diamondint.it - www.difragrances.com

Officina Profumeria Sarda s.r.l. I-07041 Alghero (SS) tel. + 39/340 3872516 www.acquadisardegna.it infor@officinaprofumeriasarda

Intertrade Europe

Salvatore Ferragamo Ungaro

Beautimport s.p.a. Via Bentini, 55 I-40013 Castel Maggiore - BO tel. +39-051/7094611 - fax +39-051/700652

HI Intertrade Europe Via Portogallo,11/125 - I-35127 Padova tel. +39-049/7625241 - fax +39-049/762 5177

Salvatore Ferragamo Italia s.p.a. Via dei Tornabuoni, 2 I-20123 Firenze tel. +39-055/33601 - fax +39-055/3360734

Jean Couturier Léonard

VAG & Distribution 6, rue Pasquier - F-75008 Paris tel. +33-1/58183970 - fax +33-1/40060210

Simone Cosac

Perfume Holding - Morris s.p.a. Via Maretto, 13 I-43100 Parma - Roncopascolo tel. 39-0521/662111 - fax 39-0521/662268

Jesus del Pozo Roberto Verino Starck - Tous

Perfumes y Diseño España, S.L. Isla del Hierro, 5 E-28709 San Sebastian de los Reyes (Madrid) tel. +34-91/6588843 - fax +34-91/6588849

Simone Cosac Profumi s.r.l. Via Villamagna, 56/58 I-50012 Bagno a Ripoli (Firenze) tel. + 39/055-631251 – fax +39/055-631262

Teatro Fragranze Uniche

Kiko

Milano Cosmetics s.r.l. Via Depretis, 6/9 - I-24122 Bergamo tel. +39-035/3693611 - fax +39-035/3693612

Klapp Cosmetics

Klapp Cosmetics GmbH Hanröder Str. 24 D-37235 Hessisch Lichtenau tel. +49-5602-9359-0 - fax +49-5602-9359-30

Teatro Fragranze Uniche s.r.l. Via Pietro Nenni, 26/28 - I-50019 Sesto Fiorentino (FI) tel. +39/055.4212240 www.teatrofragranzeuniche.it info@teatrofragranzeuniche.it

Valobra

Layla

Layla Cosmetics s.r.l. Via dei Pestagalli, 21 - I-20138 Milano tel. +39-02/5062052 - fax +39-02/5061160

Valobra Via G. Carducci, 5/7 I-16121 Genova tel. +39-010/581179 - fax +39-010/5702191

Versace

L’Erbolario

L’Erbolario s.p.a. V.le Milano, 74 - I – 26900 Lodi tel. +39/0371-4911 - fax + 39/0371-491411 www.erbolario.com

Euroitalia s.r.l. Via G. Galilei, 1 I-20040 Cavenago Brianza (MI) tel. +39-02/95916.1 - fax +39-02/95916500

Locherber

Cosval s.p.a. V.le delle Industrie 10/5 - I – 20020 Arese (MI) tel. +39/02 935 80 479 - fax +39/02 935 81 022 www.cosvality.com

Fragrance division: Arrogance - GMV Cosmetic division: Pikenz - PZ - PKZ SPA Scrinium Vital

The First s.p.a. Via Fieno, 8 I-20123 Milano tel. +39-02/661381 fax +39-02/66138519

ALV by Alviero Martini Villa Talente Atkinsons - Benetton Ferrari - Iceberg John Galliano Sergio Tacchini

Balmain Parfums - Celine - Lanvin Interparfums Paul Smith - Roxi - Van Cleef & Arpels 4 Rond Point del Champs Elysées Jimmy Choo - Mont Blanc F-75008 Paris tel. 33/1-53770000 - fax 33/1-53763626 Basile - Compagnia delle Indie Egon von Fürstenberg Lancetti - Lotto Nazareno Gabrielli Sweet Years

Weruska & Joël s.r.l. Corso Moncalieri, 381 I-10133 Torino tel. +39-011/6611066 fax +39-011/6611348

B.Kolor

B.Kolormakeup & Skincare s.p.a. Via Canonica, 79/A Loc. Geromina – I-24047 Treviglio (BG) tel. 39/0363-590011 – fax 39/0363-590212 info@bkolormakeup.com www.bkolormakeup-skincare.com

Blumarine - Dsquared2 Pomellato - Trussardi

ITF s.p.a. - Angelini Group Strada Provinciale, 25 - Km. 2,8 - I-26900 Lodi tel. +39-0371/4001 - fax +39-0371/400227

87


IV

REPULP/LIFTING SÉRUM

ACIDE HYALURONIQUE SÉRUM

NOUVELLE VIE SÉRUM

Fills wrinkles and has a powerful lifting action

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EM - Profumeria Selettiva 4-17  

Edizione Profumeria Selettiva e accessori Lusso E' un'esposizione permanente e aggiornata di prodotti selettivi e accessori di lusso: cosmet...