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N. 2 / 2020 - bimestrale - mte Edizioni s.r.l. - Via R. Gessi 28 - 20146 Milano - Tariffa R.O.C.: Poste Italiane s.p.a. Spedizione in abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB - Modena - € 7 In caso di mancato recapito inviare al CPO MODENA per la restituzione previo pagamento resi. - CONTIENE SUPPLEMENTO


Discover the complete range on

SHADES OF LIGHTNESS BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST Dubai – 31 May-2 June / COSMOPACK Bologna – 11-14 June / COSMOPROF Bologna – 12-15 June

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Make You is the make-up line of Guudcure, the “healthy ageing” and “clean beauty” italian skin care brand. The extreme richness of textures is combined with delicate ingredients in 8 fantastic products, for a safe and perfect make-up, but light as a plume!

GUUDCURE is a brand of H.S.A. S.p.A. // // made in Italy



Enrico GI

EVENTS 8-9 30 32-33 40

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Beauty Istanbul Make Up in Paris Beautyworld Middle East

On the cover: Cosmetica Italia: Buy Italian Cosmetics


SUPPLEMENTO AL N. 2 ANNO XXXX MARCH / APRIL / may 2020 MARZO / APRILE / maggio 2020 BIMONTHLY DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano n. 85 del 16/02/1991 Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena

INTERVIEW 4-5 20-21

Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl Via Romolo Gessi, 28 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/ Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: Managing Editor Giuseppe Tirabasso Editor-in-chief Claudia Stagno E-mail: Correspondent for France: Catherine du Villard Consultants Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom - Francesca Bonelli Roberto Cimarosa - Valerie Kaminov Rebecca Lazzari - Joan Rundo Simona Verga - Catherine Wrenn P.R. Promotion Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni


Cosmetica Italia: R. Ancorottti - F. Berchi Lumson: M. Moretti

LAUNCH 14-15 16 24-25

Printing: Formagrafica s.r.l. - Carpi (MO) Art Director Teresa Tibaldi


Ferragamo Nouba Collistar

report 42-44

CBD by V. Kaminov

Advertisers’ list 10-11 37 31 III 47 3 Cover 34-35 6 45 12 7 II-1 IV 28-29 26-27 19 38-39 18 13 17 41 36

Astra Beauty Eurasia Beauty Istanbul Beyond Beauty Miami Clean Beauty in London Collistar Cosmetica Italia Cosmobeauté Cosmoprof Asia Cosmoprof India Cosmoprof North America Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Guudcure Enrico GI Eslabondexx Farmeco Lumson LuxePack Make Up in..2020 Mane Nouba Quintessence Sana


Cosmetica Italia Italian cosmetics:

an excellence to export

A discussion with the President of Cosmetica Italia - the personal care association - Renato Ancorotti, to outline the values and strengths of a sector which, even in contexts of uncertainty, confirms its commitment to keeping high standards of product quality and safety EXPORT MAGAZINE: What is the value of cosmetics in our everyday life? Renato Ancorotti: As an Association, we are committed to promoting the social value of beauty products. Cosmetics are not something frivolous: they are an essential ally for well-being and personal care. The use of cosmetics is one of the things we do to feel good: they are fundamental daily gestures – each of us uses at least eight cosmetics a day – which accompany us in all the phases of our life. This “skin on skin” relationship with the consumer must be based on correct information that can recognize the high scientific and technological content of cosmetics in terms of safety and quality, as well as the social value of these products. EM: What are the distinctive characteristics of cosmetics “Made in Italy”? RA: “Made in Italy” is synonymous with quality, creativity and originality: typically Italian good taste that distinguishes our offer on international markets, being able to interpret and respond to the profound changes both in the demand of the consumer and the situation of distribution. One figure above all proves this: over 65% of the make-up consumed in Europe is made by Italian companies.


Then there are further elements behind the excellence of our products. I am referring to safety and efficacy which are essential points for the sector. You just have to think that in Europe we have one of the strictest sets of regulations in the world concerning the safety of cosmetic ingredients and products. Every product, before it is put on sale, must pass a long procedure and be tested by numerous experts, in order to guarantee maximum protection for consumers’ health. Behind every beauty products in daily use there are years of scientific research and in Italy we are extremely committed to this aspect: the national cosmetic sector invests about the double of the average of the manufacturing industries in research and development (7-8%, against the 3-4% of the other sectors). EM: Export plays a fundamental role for the companies in the Italian cosmetics sector: what impact could Covid-19 have?


RA: The Research Centre of Cosmetica Italia has started monitoring the repercussions of the Coronavirus emergency on the economy through weekly flash surveys. For the time being, we are facing a number of possible scenarios which in part will also depend in their economic dimension on the evolution of the epidemic not only in Italy but in the rest of the world. All industrial sectors, including consumer goods such as cosmetics, will definitely have repercussions. For our sector, which exports over 40% of its sales, the international scenario will therefore be fundamental and adequate measures to support Italian industry will be decisive. Cosmetics is an industry which does a lot of good for our country and already in the past, in contexts of uncertainty, it has been able to react positively. We will prove this on this occasion as well.

Fabio Berchi, Cosmetica Italia Board Member in charge of internationalization, outlines some tools and initiatives implemented by the Association to support development abroad of the companies. The situation on the main opportunities, in particular, those which in the current scenario of limited movement allow a contact with potential buyers and partners

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Buy Italian Cosmetics is structured like a fully-fledged search engine that can establish a first “virtual� contact between Italian companies and foreign partners. How does it work? FABIO BERCHI: Buy Italian Cosmetics has the dual objective of promoting Italian-made beauty products abroad and fostering opportunities of contact between the member companies that have included their corporate profile and the international operators of the sector who can enter into direct contact with the company.

Started in 2016, this showcase today more than ever, can increase the visibility of the member companies and concretely help them to find new international partners in search of Italian cosmetic excellence, thus fostering the development of the business on foreign markets. EM: The Covid-19 emergency has caused the rescheduling or cancellation of appointments, as well as a slowdown of activities with some countries. What does Cosmetica Italia suggest its member companies do to continue fostering occasions for business on foreign markets? FB: In response to the potential slowdown of export and the domestic market, the Association has started two paths of internationalization which allow approaching the selected markets without even having to pack a case. The first, in Europe (with a target of Central Europe and Russia), is developed in collaboration with MULTI and is a good proposal to concentrate on the markets closes to us and, from the standards point of view, more easily accessible ones. The second, on the other hand, has a focus on South-East Asia and through our partner Bonucchi & Associati allows having an office in Singapore with personnel available to work on behalf of Italian companies taking part in the project: monitoring in the stores, delivery of samples and organization of video conferences, contacts with local operators recommended by the Italian companies.

Looking for Italian beauty products?

EM: The Beauty Made in Italy US Program, now a foundation of the international activities is not to be forgotten either. FB: This is a programme supported by the Ministry for Economic Development and implemented by ITA, Italian Trade Agency, in collaboration with Cosmetica Italia which has the aim of promoting on the US territory knowledge of Italian cosmetics and offering new business opportunities to Italian companies. In particular, thanks to the US Beauty Desk in New York, we are able to continue operating concretely for the Italian companies that have approached this market, creating, starting from the consumer, a window for bilateral dialogue. C.S.




A new world for beauty Bologna, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Mumbai, Bangkok

Sales Office Europe, Africa, Middle East, The Americas BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 / F +39 02 795 036

Sales Office Asia Pacific Informa Markets, Hong Kong P +852 2827 6211 F +852 2827 7831

Marketing and Promotion BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 F +39 02 795 036

Organiser – Cosmoprof Asia Ltd

2020 COSMOPROF BOLOGNA, ITALY 2020 FAIR DISTRICT COSMOPROF A new world for beauty BOLOGNA, Bologna, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Mumbai, Bangkok ITALY FAIR DISTRICT A new world for beauty Bologna, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Mumbai, Bangkok


DATES! 3 - 6 SEPTEMBER 4 - 7 SEPTEMBER NEW DATES! Organiser BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 F +39 02 795 036

Company of

In partnership with

With the support of

Organiser BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420

Company of

In partnership with

With the support of


Cosmoprof Bologna Cosmoprof Worldwide press conference in Milan

looking at the future: a laboratory for the new decade

The 2020 Cosmoprof WorldWide Bologna continues to be a unique event and the leading B2B international event for the cosmetic industry. This year, the show will ring over 3,000 companies to Bologna – over 70% from abroad – and more than 265,000 visitors. It keeps on facilitating business opportunities of companies and operators, and consequently the development of the cosmetic market. Despite the

The new dates for the event: September 3-7, 2020 change of dates due to the health emergency, with the event now being held from 3 to 7 September 2020, the programme and special initiatives will not undergo substantial changes. Cosmopack and Cosmo | Perfumery & Cosmetics will be the first to open, to encourage meetings between producers and specialists in the supply chain, finished product companies, buyers and retailers for Perfumery and Cosmetics, Green and Organic, and CosmoPrime. The next day, professional distribution channels of Cosmo | Hair & Nail & Beauty Salon will welcome


owners of salons and beauty centres, hairstylists, hairdressers, nail technicians and distributors specialized in these segments. From the international pavilions it really seems that the whole world comes to Bologna: 23 country pavilions will bring small and medium-sized beauty companies to Bologna, revealing their exclusive traditions: Belgium, California, China, Brazil, France, Germany, Japan, Greece, Indonesia, Israel, Korea, Latvia, Poland, Romania, Spain, Sweden, Taiwan, Turkey, UK, USA and, for the first time, Mongolia, the Czech Republic and Russia.

Vision 2030 The guiding theme of the 2020 show will be the vision of the 2030 cosmetic industry, with Cosmoprof hosting seminars and initiatives providing suggestions and ideas to give shape to Beauty 2030. Cosmoprof 2020 thus becomes a laboratory for sharing experiences and suggestions and discovering the future scenario for operators and companies in the beauty sector in the next ten years. The show will be divided into thematic “Gardens”: The Garden of Innovation offering an overall view of the macro trends that will

most likely impact on all aspects related to daily life in the next decade. The Garden of Diversity: CosmoFactory, within CosmoPack, will create here an experimental lab organized in three steps, representing the production, the shopping experience and the testing of a beauty product. The Garden of Colors and Materials will preview the colors and materials of cosmetic products in 2030, with an analysis of the basic elements of the evolution of design and packaging, proposing a path between four different moods. The Garden of Trends will display the products from the first release of CosmoTrends, the report created in collaboration with Beautystreams that offers an exclusive overview of the trends emerging along Cosmoprof’s corridors. The Garden of Fragrances will turn the spotlight on future transformations for the world of fragrances in CosmoPrime.

Sustainability: the key word Sustainability will no longer be a trend at Cosmoprof 2020 but a value of everyday life for consumers, and consequently it must be part of the strategic development of the entire cosmetic industry.

PRELIMINARY MAP 2020 Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna and Sparknews, an agency specialized in green projects for beauty companies, will give visibility to the activities of those exhibitors who are more sensitive to the values of sustainability and the circular economy.


From Friday to Monday / Da venerdì a lunedì*

From Thursday to Sunday / Da giovedì a domenica*


Professional hair

Green & organic

Beauty & SPA

Cosmetics & toiletries


CALZONI entrance / ingresso




















CS* 31







35CC 32A







33A 35A


CALZONI entrance / 32A ingresso32D








36 19


Perfumery and cosmetics companies 29 15 will be occupying Pavilions 16, 16A, 15A 19B 14 19 and 21N, dedicated 22, 26, 29B, to21 29E 22 20 29B 19 the green universe and CosmoPrime 19A 22A 16A 19PK and the in hall 14. The hair sector beauty and spa sectors are on display in the Hair & Nail & Beauty Salon.








Cosmetics & toiletries

36 18


/ Cosmo | Perfumery entrance ingresso & Cosmetics and Cosmo! Hair & Nail & Beauty Salon 18

Professional hair


Green & organic

NORD entrance / ingresso 28

MICHELINO entrance / ingresso


MICHELINO entrance / ingresso

4 - 7 September

3 - 6 September

Contract & private label manufacturing Machinery & packaging Ingredients & raw materials

Contract & private label manufacturing Machinery & packaging Ingredients & raw materials



35CC 35

33A 35A

22T 33

Volvo Congress Center


COSTITUZIONE entrance / ingresso

MORO entrance / ingresso

International leading companiesVolvo Congress Center from the whole supply chain will MORO present the COSTITUZIONE latest production entrance / entrance / ingresso ingresso technologies at Cosmopack. Fair district address / Please note CosmoFactory 2020 will be the first * Service Center Indirizzo quartiere fieristico Light grey halls are open from 3 to 6 September; September 3 - 7, 2020 / dark grey halls are open from 4 to 7 September. Centro Servizi stage of a 3-step initiative, dedicated CALZONI: Via Alfredo Calzoni, 16 3 - 7 settembre 2020 COSTITUZIONE: Piazza della Costituzione, 5 Nota bene MICHELINO: Via Michelino,* Service 38 Center to the needs of / the retail channel. Fair district address Please note I padiglioni grigio chiaro sono aperti dal 3 al 6 settembre; MORO: Via Aldo Moro, 20 September 3 - 7, 2020 / Indirizzo quartiere fieristico Light grey halls are open from 3 to 6 September; i padiglioni grigio scuro sono aperti dal 4 al 7 settembre. dark grey halls are open from 4 to 7 September. NORD: Rotonda Dante Canè Centro Servizi The protagonist in 2020 is “Six4all”, CALZONI: Via Alfredo Calzoni, 16 3 - 7 settembre 2020 COSTITUZIONE: Piazza della Costituzione, 5 The exhibition will be held from 3 to 7 September Nota bene MICHELINO: Via Michelino, 38 I padiglioni grigio chiaro sono aperti dal 3 al 6 settembre; a foundation suitable for multiple MORO: Via Aldo Moro, 20 i padiglioni grigio scuro sono aperti dal 4 al 7 settembre. NORD: Rotonda Dante Canè After an initial postponement to June, the current gravity of the emergenskin tones, following values such as cy and severe travel restrictions have made a further postponement of the diversity and multi-ethnicity which event necessary. Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna will not be held from 3 to are characterizing our society. 7 September, with Cosmopack and Cosmo|Perfumery & Cosmetics from


Business at Cosmoprof

Thursday 3rd to Sunday 6th and Cosmo !Hair Nail & Beauty Salon from Friday

Cosmoprof is a consolidated appointment for business thanks to the specific services that have facilitated networking and business. The consolidated Buyer Program will offer two meeting stations with a lounge in CosmoPrime for retailers and buyers in the perfumery and cosmetics channels and a lounge in The Mall for distributors and buyers for professional channels. For the 2020 edition, Cosmoprof MyMatch, to match buyers and exhibitors, will be at the disposal of all buyers who register before the event on the Cosmoprof website.

4th to Monday 7th. Enrico Zannini, General Manager of Bologna Fiere Cosmoprof SpA, commenting this decision, said “Today, more than ever we are therefore called to act with responsibility, to protect the investments and production activities of our 3,000 exhibitors and to support the sector. In September, we will work together with beauty companies and operators in the relaunch and development of the industry on a global level.” While Renato Ancorotti, president of Cosmetica Italia, professional Care Association, stated, “Never as at this time, do trade fair and industry need to act together for the appointment which – this is our wish – will represent one of the crucial stages of the recovery for the sector in the post-Coronavirus phase. In the near future, Cosmetica Italia will embody even more the values of a key sector for our country and a flagship of Made in Italy. It would be a success to see our companies confirming their presence at this extraordinary September edition of the most important event in the world for the beauty sector.”







# A S T R A I TA L I A N B E A U T Y

A S T R A M A K E U P , 1 9 8 8 , U M B R I A , I TA LY


2020 COSMOPROF NORTH AMERICA LAS VEGAS A new world for beauty Bologna, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Mumbai, Bangkok

SEPTEMBER 20 – 22 Sales Office US, Canada and Mexico PBA, Scottsdale, AZ, USA P +1 480 281 0424 F +1 480 905 0708


Sales Office Europe, Africa, Middle East, Asia and South America BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 / F +39 02 795 036

The leading B2B beauty trade show in the Americas.

Marketing and Promotion BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 F +39 02 795 036


Organizer – North American Beauty Events LLC

INSPIRATION, SUSTAINABILITY, RESEARCH: 2020, DISCOVERING THE SURPRISING WORLD OF MANE The latest exciting creations of MANE perfumers transport into a world of fantasy, refinement and emotions. With TRUSSARDI LE VIE DI MILANO PASSEGGIATA IN GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II Julie Massé has given an olfactory signature to the "Milanese mundane living", where the effluvia of the tearooms mix with expensive perfumes. The fragrance opens with an exciting cocktail of Hazelnut Accord, Coffee Jungle Essence™ and Cinnamon Essential Oil, an inviting prelude to the discovery of the heart of the composition, where the seductive notes of Tuberose and Jasmine Absolutes are wrapped by the intoxicating Coconut Neo Jungle Essence™. In the dry-down, the magnetic Vanilla Absolute mixes with the precious notes of Cedarwood Essential Oil and White Musk, for a perfect representation of the purest luxury and Italian refinement. The new fragrance created for BLUMARINE by the duo Véronique Nyberg and Violaine Collas, LET YOU LOVE ME, smells of determination and femininity. The magnetic and captivating top notes of Black Pepper Pure Jungle Essence™, Lavender Accord and Ylang-Ylang Essential Oil open the doors of perception to the extreme refinement of the heart notes, where the bold Geranium Bourbon Essential Oil blends with the elegance of Orange Blossom Accord and Mugane™. The composition finds a perfect olfactory seal in the seductive base notes, built around a fascinating intertwining of Patchouli Essential Oil, Vanilla Accord and ambery Lorenox™. A fragrance created to reveal a new elegant sensuality, intriguing as the most splendid of animal-print dresses, and a reference to that style that is as sophisticated as it is natural. Véronique Nyberg was inspired by her trip to a resort with an adjacent spa in the Bahamas for the creation of the new genderless fragrance by MANDARINA DUCK, THE DUCKERS RESORT LOVERS. Hence the idea of a soft and sensual fragrance that revolves around an intense aquatic note of Aqual™, enhanced by the green nuances of Violet Leaves and the vitaminic power of Bergamot. A voluptuous enveloping sensation opens in the heart thanks to Rose Essential Oil and Lily of the Valley, which are combined with the fine notes of Osmanthus Absolute. The luxury and desire to indulge in a parenthesis over time returns in the base notes dominated by Cypriol Essential Oil which, together with the exotic Tonka Bean Absolute and the sophisticated Patchouli, leads to dreamy destinations. EMPORIO ARMANI STRONGER WITH YOU FREEZE is a new fresh interpretation of the iconic Stronger With You, created by Cécile Matton. A Citrusy, Woody, Fougère fragrance that opens with fresh notes of Lime and develops into an elegant heart of clean Sage and enveloping Lavender, lingering with a masculine Woody Amber Accord. A celebration of life and togetherness, the fragrance seizes each instant, freezing the moment to make it last... Created by Julie Massé, the new SÌ PASSIONE EAU DE PARFUM INTENSE is a fragrance for women by GIORGIO ARMANI that captures the vibrating true passion. The iconic Sì signature of Blackcurrant nectar is blended with an emphatic floral heart made of a Jasmine duo, creating a fierce and powerful energy that is further enhanced by Patchouli Essence and Vanilla Extract. An ode to vibrating femininity, Sì Passione Eau De Parfum Intense celebrates the contrast between the floral brightness and the intensity of passion.

The exploration of new fragrant worlds continues...



An exclusive fragrance for

a man who knows

he new men’s fragrance, FERRAGAMO, is an olfactory manifesto which expresses the bold and courageous spirit of a modern man who lives modernity with innate passion and elegance. The fragrance answers the question “Who do you want to be?” It is conceived for a free, confident and independent man, who follows his instinct and his own rules, facing up to every new challenge without the slightest hesitation. He is a man with a tireless spirit, who sees life from different perspectives, with infinite creativity and curiosity.

The new fragrance from Salvatore Ferragamo expresses the spirit of modern man 14

who he wants to be

He is a man who lives in constant movement between emotional experiences and fast connections, gaining awareness of himself and who he wants to be, always leaving his indelible mark wherever he goes. Ferragamo is the very essence of this feeling and this force which echoes through the notes of a fragrance rich in contrasting but harmonious elements, in balance between kind masculinity and innate freedom. The fragrance has been created by Antoine Maisondieu, with a fougère, citrus and woody personality that entwines fresh and boisé notes to sublimate the Italian roots of the brand and its history of craftsmanship. A luminous explosion of Mediterranean citrus fruit, vibrant bergamot and lemon, leads to an unexpected heart: the metallic floral accord of violet and absolute of violet leaves merges with the force of the exclusive note of


Ferragamo leather accord, in an association that immediately evokes the craft heritage of Salvatore Ferragamo. The intensity of musk and vetiver completes the creation, underlining the sensual dimension of the olfactory composition. The refined glass bottle is a modern reinterpretation of the iconic motifs of Salvatore Ferragamo. The elongated shape recalls the silhouette of a skyscraper inviting us to discover every detail from different angles. A blue vertical leather-effect insert enhances the silhouette, communicating the name of the brand, from below upwards, in a new and sleek version. At the two ends of the bottle, thanks to a change of perspective, there appears another of the key codes of the Maison: the characteristic Gancini metal buckle, applied as a decorative detail and as a metaphor of the various aspects that coexist in the Ferragamo man: tradition and innovation, concreteness and creativity, force and sensitivity. The same dualism is represented by the material superimposition of the strong and rational metal elements, and the tactile effect of the leather-effect insert which recalls his emotional sphere. Ferragamo Eau de Toilette will be available in 30 ml, 50ml and 100 ml.

Salvatore Ferragamo launches the new men’s fragrance FERRAGAMO, with an advertising campaign focused on the social media and the expression of the confident and courageous spirit of a modern man who explores life with innate passion and elegance. The video has been directed by Gordon Von Steiner and the photographic images are by Luca Khouri. Conceived by Paul Andrew, Creative Director of Salvatore Ferragamo, the iconic FERRAGAMO fragrance makes its debut on the global stage with a story that reflects the evolution of the stylistic codes of the Maison towards a new vision of masculinity and of craftsmanship. The actor Hero Fiennes Tiffin is the face of the advertising campaign of the new fragrance, in which the young actor shows the different facets of the hero of the story. Against a background of city skyscrapers and holding a script in one hand, the Ferragamo man asks aloud “Who do you want to be?� as though he were rehearsing his future way of being. We see him from different angles and each side reveals a different aspect of his personality, every frame sees him refine his interior voice, driving him to consider reality from every possible perspective. Until, in the final scene, he goes up on to the stage, fully aware of who he wants to be and equally determined to invite other men to make the same reflection and conquer the same inner confidence.




One formula for 1000 kisses But what was the intuition that led to the creation of this mesmerizing product? An easy notion: “No traces means thumbs up for a lipstick”, which comes from specific needs such as: having perfectly coloured lips using a product that would not transfer any traces of colour to glasses, clothes, cigarettes or someone else’s lips; avoiding useless retouching during the day; being perfect anytime and even in the most difficult situations; proudly showing off sensual lips.

Millebaci, Nouba’s iconic lip cream

In 2020, the Italian make-up brand Nouba, well-known for its versatile products and bold colours, celebrates the anniversary of its most iconic product: the Millebaci liquid lipstick. This soft coloured cream, whose formula and finish evolved over the years according to the consumers’ needs, is a real technological prodigy. Its lightweight formula, rich in microencapsulated pigments and film-forming resins, has caressed women’s lips for 20 years. The alchemy of innovative elements guarantees both the extraordinary staying power and the no-transfer effect.


Here comes Millebaci: the liquid lipstick that leaves only emotions and no unsightly marks. When we’re asked about its long staying power, we prefer to speak in terms of use rather than hours. Better said, we proudly state that it takes 1000 kisses to remove it, hence the name Millebaci which literally means “A thousand kisses”. The product’s communicative power lies in its Italian name, which bonds and amplifies the energy of two imaginatively meaningful words: a thousand, like women’s multifaceted fantasies and corresponding moods, and kiss, the most powerful, meaningful, lovely act on earth. Just like a waterfall of endorphins and wellness, the kiss is as strong as the colour is: the kiss overwhelms us and gently melts with the colour, which reassures and comforts us thanks to its persistence. Over the years, the colour selection and the finishes have been increased. The main sumptuous finishes are: metallic, satin, matte. More than a hundred shades are available, among which Rosso no. 7 stands out. It is the most appreciated and imitated colour of the range and has sold over 1 million pieces. This is the story and its development. This is the product that makes us the proudest. Happy anniversary, a MILLEBACI (a thousand kisses) to you and arrivederci (see you soon)!





2020 June 18|19


Carrousel du Louvre MakeUp in Paris is the exclusive BtoB event with global make-up and skincare offers from ingredients, formulation, design, packaging, accessories to full service suppliers. @MakeUpinWorld MakeUp in





@MakeUp in



A strong vocation for internationalization,

innovation and research

Interview with Matteo Moretti, President of Lumson

Headquarter Lumson, Capergnanica (CR)

Lumson, based in Capergnanica, the leading company in the design and development of primary packaging systems for the cosmetic market, for make up and the pharmaceutical sector, has recently acquired Marino Belotti SRL and is now ready to launch several new features on the market with sustainable innovation as a common thread. Lumson’s technological and sustainable cores are ready to merge in order to offer high-performance environmentally friendly products to its customers all over the world, which will be a technology and productivity challenge. At Cosmopack the company will present a few solutions which combine technical and functional performances with aesthetics and sustainability. Matteo Moretti, President of Lumson, is here to address this issue today.


TAL - Techno Airless Aluminum, the new airless by Lumson Group

export magazine: When we last met, last September, you had just formalized the acquisition of Marino Belotti SRL. How does this operation fit into your strategy? MATTEO MORETTI: The acquisition of Marino Belotti, a well-established reality in the packaging prestige compact and powder, has enabled us to broaden our offer of standard and custom made products and to strengthen our presence both on the European market and on the American one. On the other hand, our know-how and our manufacturing skills will develop and let the world know about the least popular products of Marino Belotti’s, the standard ones. EM: For over 40 years Lumson has been producing primary packaging for the cosmetic sector and for make up. What does packaging represent for you? MM: It is an important part of my story, the story of my family and of all those people who work with us everyday. Everything started with my father, who dedicated the company to his father. Lumson means “Luigi Moretti’s son”, indeed, and the bond with family and tradition, together with our strong vocation, has always been a distinctive mark of our company. We have always invest in innovation, research and development, believing that packaging was much more than a simple container, we thought it was a tool to increase the value of the product and a communication tool, just as a cosmetic product is much more than a mix of ingredients.


PLA 2.0, the new lipstick packaging obtained from renewable and bio-based raw materials

EM: How do you combine your identity as a family company with the size of an international company? MM: Actually our vocation to internationalisation has always been in the genes of Lumson together with the focus on innovation and research. What has changed is its size, but respect, reliability and ethics have remained unchanged. For us, innovating while respecting the tradition has meant to improve our products constantly without betraying our identity. EM: Sustainability has been added to these values as it is now an integral part of your strategy. What are the results of sustainability for Lumson? MM: Being sustainable is no longer an option but a necessary step for all companies. As far as we are concerned, we have made sustainability a priority. We have tried our best so that the environmental, social and economical impacts of our performance would be as positive as possible throughout the product lifecycle. We have included into this process all the company functions and all the manufacturing process phases: a design complied with ethical and environmental imperatives, our choice of the most eco-friendly materials and alternatives; our sustainable investments in R&D in order to develop innovative and functional solutions which would respect both mankind and the environment. EM: What is the role of Politecnico di Milano Foundation, your institutional partner, within your company? MM: Very important, I should say. Our collaboration with the institutions and with the Politecnico di Milano as for the Research&Development sector aims at developping packaging and accessories that follow the pathway of Recycling, Reusing, Reducing. The principles of circular economy. Lumson, with the support of Politecnico for the R&D sector, has particularly focused on the development of a number of technological, functional and sustainable new generation products (bottles, airless and packaging for make up), some of which will be presented in preview at Cosmopack 2020. EM: Could you please tell us more about this green innovation you are planning to preview at Cosmopack? MM: Of course. As I said before, we reckon the way towards sustainability passes through important

investments in the processes leading to the most ethical and sustainable solutions. The products we are going to launch at Cosmopack, Jairless and TAL - Techno Airless Aluminum, are the symbols of this philosophy. Jairless is an elegant and ergonomic glass jar which uses Techno Airless System technology and combines glass preciousness with all the technical and functional advantages of an airless dispenser. The pouch inside the jar preserves the integrity of the formula and minimizes (≼5%) the residual product. We aim at sustainability by recycling and reducing waste: with this system, once the product is finished, it is possible to separate the glass components from the plastic ones. On the other hand, TAL is the first aluminium airless with TAG system. It is perfect for face and body skincare products, it is available in different capacities, it can be customized with different designs and it is 100% recyclable. EM: At MakeUp in Los Angeles you have also presented another interesting green innovation for make up: PLA 2.0. What is it about? MM: PLA 2.0 opens up a new eco-friendly path in the lipstick sector. The PLA pack is obtained from renewable and bio-based raw materials; it is completely made with a single material according to the principles of circular economy; it does not deform under high temperatures and it does not require lubricants in its mechanism. EM: Still on the theme of sustainability, you have recently presented your project Specchio of circular economy for the cosmetic industry in collaboration with another two companies of the sector and with the support of Politecnico di Milano as for the R&D area, you have also been given a prize from Regione Lombardia. What is it about? MM: Specchio has been selected as one of the projects eligible for funding in the contest “Fashiontech-Progetti di Ricerca & Sviluppo per la Moda Sostenibileâ€? (FashiontechResearch and Development Projects for Sustainable Fashion) and the funding awarded to us and to another two companies, Pharma Cos and IDM Automation, by Regione Lombardia is of 1,200,000 euros. The project calls for the development of a new generation of make up products with an increased sustainability value throughout the whole sector. More precisely, it focuses on three key areas: developing new packaging solutions for the reduction of plastics; creating new cosmetic formulations with high percentage of raw materials of plant origins and developing innovative process solutions able to minimize the residues with a perspective of a sustainable process. C.S.



a line of fragrances inspired by nature and by an appreciation We met him to get to know from close at hand his world and the world of ENRICO GI Parfums

of beauty from an eclectic mind

Enrico GI came to the world of fragrances instinctively, driven by his love for nature and above all by his innate sense of beauty. His personal journey has a thread running through it that is called elegance. He is himself a refined and elegant man and has always felt at home in expressing himself artistically in various directions, from the world of fashion to that of interior design, to mention only a couple. EXPORT MAGAZINE: How far back does your passion for fragrances go? ENRICO GI: I came to fragrances by appreciating extracts, first of all the extract of cassis leaves, which is still today one of the raw materials present in the composition of my fragrance Blackcurrant.



Fragrance can sign the elegance of a woman or of a man, just as a lovely dress or suit can. An essence can be sumptuous like a brocade and evoke magical stories, who knows whether true or only the result of our imagination. I don’t know whether I have answered your question, however yes, fragrances occupy an important place and let me express myself. I am the one above all who has to like the fragrance and I am the first to wear it. It will never happen that I create a fragrance only to follow the trends dictated by the market.

As in fashion, from the very beginning I appreciated noble materials such as cotton, wool and silk, in the same way I immediately felt an attraction for natural extracts, as well as for beautiful bottles. I started to collect both, and to carefully study the subject. I created my first fragrance in 1979, Delirivm, a real delirium of the senses based on osmanthus, a flower which at the time grew on the slopes of the Himalayas and today, alas, which can only be reproduced in the laboratory. Delirivm was offered as a gift during my first fashion show with the name of Enrico GI, as beforehand I had worked for famous brands of haute couture. This fragrance, a real hymn to beauty, precious and unique of its kind, attracted the attention of the press, from Vogue France to Vogue Italia; many asked who this young designer with a passion for fragrances was.

EM: What makes the fragrances by Enrico GI stand out? E.GI: We try to use natural raw materials, from certified cultivators, that follow the biorhythms of the seasons, as far as possible. All our fragrances are made by a company that can boast of these certifications: UNI EN ISO 90001: 2015 Certificate – UNI EN ISO 14001: 2015 Certificate – Member of IFRA. Naturally fragrances that are 100% natural cannot be obtained, apart from the cost, because not all the raw materials are available, however our objective is to be as natural as possible. I have been working very closely for years with a team of noses who faithfully interpret my visions. The line of Enrico GI fragrances is currently made up of two fragrances for women, two for men, one genderless and, prOUD, which has just been launched, a fragrance based on oud of very high quality. In every fragrance there is always my olfactory signature, a lot of green and then flowers. Here and there, especially for the female fragrances, a gourmand note sometimes appears, for example, a note of pear, chocolate or cane sugar. Claudia Stagno

EM: In all these years, you have alternated a series of activities which have enabled you to express your creative and artistic nature. Today, what space do fragrances occupy? E.GI: I have spent a good part of my life dressing and admiring the elegance of female figures who unfortunately today hardly exist any longer. I can hardly recognize myself in today’s world and, as a consequence, I lead a secluded life, taking refuge in my world… of dreams! Well, fragrances are part of this world, they stimulate my imagination: an essence can take me far and it is precisely the search, I would say a little Proustian, of sensations linked to my memories and my favourite smells - paired with colours . that leads me to create new fragrances.



collistar puts the focus

on face care Cleansing

For this essential first step in skin care, Collistar has developed specific products for different requirements. Special and Normal Skins can use Multivitamin Make-up Remover Milk (200 ml or 400 ml) and Multivitamin Toning Lotion (200 ml) for perfect cleansing and toning. The formulas are alcohol-free and enriched with a multivitamin complex containing Vitamins A – E – B1 – B3 – B5 and H, as well as the energizing and precious extracts of Aloe, Witch Hazel and Mimosa, which leave skin bright and soft. Especially developed for mature skins, AntiAge Cleansing Milk (200ml or 400 ml) and AntiAge Toning Lotion (200 ml) are alcohol-free and enriched with moisturizing Hyaluronic Acid and Shea Butter, toning Escin and Green Tean, and Vitamins A, E and B5 which have an energizing and anti-ageing action.

Anti-Ageing Lift HD®

This is the anti-ageing product that lifts, defines and sculpts the facial contours, restoring volume like a non-surgical lifting procedure. Lift HD® products create an instant lifting effect, working deep down to firm tissue, while guaranteeing an ongoing antiageing action. The products are unique thanks to two innovative active ingredients. Tens-Active® is a high-tech plant-based ingredient which instantly lifts the face, enveloping it in a three-dimensional matrix to form a tensor grid over the face, minimizing fine lines and redefining the facial contours. The second ingredient, Lift HD® Complex is an exclusive anti-age ingredients which reboots dermo-epidermal activity. It combines a precious brown algae extract with a powerful bioactive


From the basics of cleansing to anti-ageing, Collistar has the answer “anti-gravity” tetrapeptide, stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis and encouraging the production of fibroblasts. While the complex has an instant tensor effect which smooths out fine lines, day after day it helps restructure the skin texture, making the epidermis more compact and elastic and plumping up the tissues from the inside. The line comprises Ultra-Lifting Cream – Face and Neck (50 ml jar), UltraLifting Cream – Eye and Lip Contour (15 ml jar), Night Recovery Mask-Cream (75 ml tube) and Ultra-Lifting Vials Instant Effect (6 x 1.5 ml vials).


Special Anti-Age Wrinkles, sagging skin, loss of tone, compactness and brightness are the imperfections that are targeted by Collistar’s innovative formulas that represent a genuine skin regeneration programme, where each component has been carefully selected and calibrated as part of a targeted antiageing strategy. This line is made up of Energetic Anti-Age Cream with red Aglianico grape (50 ml jar), Ultra-Regenerating Anti-Wrinkle Day Cream (50 ml jar), Ultra-Regenerating Anti-Wrinkle Night Cream (50 ml jar), Biorevitalizing Face Cream with collagen and hyaluronic activator (50 ml jar) and Biorevitalizing Eye Contour Cream with collagen and hyaluronic acid activator (50 ml jar).

Perfecta® Plus This is a precious all-over anti-ageing treatment that fights skin ageing across the board to rejuvenate your face. Thanks to its special formulation, this line reshapes the structure of the face, restores skin texture and tightens the skin. Face and Neck Perfection Cream (50 ml jar) and Eye Contour Perfection Cream (15 ml tube) contain Face-Rebuilding Complex®, an ultratechnological complex of ‘bio-active’ peptides that can interact with skin cells, slowing down the skin ageing process.

Magnifica® Plus This line is ideal for mature skins and plumps, regenerates and repairs. Its exclusive anti-age complex, B-PN Complex® helps the cells store more lipids, becoming more voluminous and in conjunction with a Peptide Complex which revives fibroblasts, cell cohesion is restored, for an overall result of allround rejuvenation. The products are Replumping Regenerating Face Cream (50 ml jar) and Replumping Regenerating Eye Cream (15 ml).



Nourishing Volumizing Reinforcing Purifying Calming Restructuring No-frizz Color Maintenance ESLABONDEXX.COM

YOUR NATURAL WAY TO HAIR BEAUTY & HEALTH Clean Care means beautiful and healthy hair, but also looks out to the world that surrounds us. The vigour of nature is enclosed in the heart of the cosmetic formulae whose guiding light is simplicity, safety, functionality and the sustainable use of raw materials and packaging. More than 90% of the ingredients are natural or organic + ECO-PROTECT TECHNOLOGY which is a powerful blend of protective natural active ingredients for the hair, including sugar cane extract, monoi oil, argan oil and vitamin E.


BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST Dubai 31 May - 2 June · COSMOPACK Bologna 11 -14 June · COSMOPROF WORLDWIDE Bologna 12 - 15 June



a modern approach to exhibitions!

Unique O2O Online Platform featured 11439 buyers, 3874 products, 9294 pre-arranged meetings and many more business opportunities from January 2019 to October 2019. Enabling buyers and exhibitors to conduct business not only 3 days but 24/7 and 365 days. O2O Platform is active once again, starting from February 1st, 2020. With the increasing number of buyers and exhibitors in reach of one screen away, the O2O Platform will bring even more fruitful business opportunities!

Beautyistanbul 2020 online platform is active! No need to wait until the exhibition, conduct business 24/7 and 365 days and reach buyers from 170 countries in one click! By becoming an exhibitor at BEAUTYISTANBUL, you get to access the full list of more than 10.000 registered buyers, view buyer profiles, send direct messages to buyers, pre-arrange on-site meetings and display your products. You can conduct business with buyers who cannot attend physically to the trade show in Istanbul, therefore get an opportunity you do not get from regular exhibitions. At the 1st edition, many exhibitors of BEAUTYISTANBUL had already made deals and send shipments months before the exhibition.


Thanks to the meeting system on the O2O Platform, exhibitors come to the venue with pre-set business meetings and know who to expect without waiting for customers at the booth.

VIP HOSTED BUYER PROGRAM OF 754 QUALIFIED BUYERS At the 1st edition of BEAUTYISTANBUL during 2-3-4 October 2019, 754 qualified buyers, distributors, importers, wholesalers and retailers from 120 countries were hosted by providing travel and accommodation expenses. BEAUTYISTANBUL exhibitors exclusively held over 3.000 B2B meetings in 4.000 sqm B2B Area which had the capacity of 350 concurrent meetings. According to feedback received from exhibitors, 1st edition of BEAUTYISTANBUL featured the most global and professional exhibition of the year 2019. Having 63% international visitor ratio makes BEAUTYISTANBUL a truly global show with the attendance of professional buyers from South America to Sub-Saharan Africa, AsiaPacific to CIS region, resembling an unmatched global exposure.

BEAUTYISTANBUL 2019 (1st edition) FACTS AND FIGURES: Exhibitors: 313 Total, 168 Local and 145 International Exhibitors from 52 countries. Visitors: 8246 Total, 3026 Local and 5220 International Professional Visitors from 145 countries VIP Hosted Buyers: 754 VIP Hosted Buyers with high purchasing power were hosted by providing travel and accommodation, from 120 countries. The 2nd edition of BEAUTYISTANBUL, the International Exhibition for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair, Private Label, Home Care, Packaging and Ingredients will be held on 8-9-10 October 2020 in Istanbul, Turkey. Wishing to see you at BEAUTYISTANBUL at ICCIstanbul Congress Center, Taksim at the heart of Istanbul.

2nd International Exhibition for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair Private Label, Home Care, Packaging, Ingredients

October 8 - 9 - 10, 2020

ICC - Congress Center, Taksim - Istanbul

w w w.b eaut Tel: +90 212 2229060


+90 533 4843030




MakeUp in Paris

11th Edition of

the hybrida makeup in the spotlight!

This new improved makeup with benefits and textures similar to skin care products, perfectly answers the new consumer demands. Indeed, with Millennials and Gen-Z who are ultra-aware of their impact on the planet but who also want to save time by lightening their beauty routine, brands have to think benefits more than products! A trend straight from Asia that is not to be missed! Hybrid makeup has become THE most demanded product by consumers, who want to go for multi-tasking products and no longer wish to choose between beauty and skincare.

Skin care and hybrid makeup care: a flagship theme of the show 32

MakeUp in Paris 2020 will not escape this turning point in the industry and is making hybrid makeup the flagship trend of the show through dedicated conferences and new animations exclusively designed to help brands make the most of this movement and reach increasingly demanding and uncompromising consumers!

Product-oriented coaching sessions for brands by experts Orchastrated by 3 super-qualified trend agencies, personalized coaching sessions will be open to all visitors during the two days of the show. At the disposal of the brands and at the service of the Indie Brands, each agency will animate an area dedicated to eyes, lips or skin. Each session will be an opportunity to benefit from expertise in formulation, packaging and trends, to see the market hits up close and to learn about the best ways to reach makeup and skincare users.


An unmissable conference program After a successful start in Los Angeles with nearly 2000 participants at the two-day conference program, MakeUp in Paris is set to be as amazing as LA! In Los Angeles, the conference about the Clean Beauty movement broke all records with more than 260 participants and half of the audience standing up! Enough to set the tone for the conferences at MakeUp in Paris. The conferences have become a big part of the life of the MakeUp in show as they bring rich and awaited content to the participants. Thanks to accurate benchmark and a strong worldwide network, all the key subjects of the Beauty market are tackled during the conferences of the shows! Trends, information about the market, new ideas, sustainability, millenials, formulation, packaging, success stories, brands… but above all everything about skincare and hybrid makeup.

Innovations... more innovations! In 2019, 173 exhibitors submitted 366 products to the Innovation Tree Awards jury! And 129 products were selected and presented during the 5 MakeUp in shows. This year, the numbers were never this high with 151 products presented by 62 exhibitors for MakeUp in LosAngeles only! The Innovation Tree, the key installation of the show, highlights the best of the exhibitors’ innovations in terms of ingredients, textures and formulas. The selected innovations embody the latest market trends so much that more and more manufacturers are marking the date of the show as a deadline for presenting their new products. MakeUp in Paris will again this year be the exclusive product launch platform for the exhibitors.

personal, they inspire and aspire to gain more market shares by responding to needs that were until now not satisfied enough. And to help them find future partners that will be able to follow their pace and meet their different needs, especially in terms of quantity, MakeUp in Paris will provide support to these new brands before and during the show: dedicated coaching, matchmaking with suppliers, conferences... Everything they need to expand their reach!

As for the Millennials, they are not forgotten as they are invited to test and evaluate the products selected for the Innovation Tree in order to reward their 3 FavorITe Millennials!

The Indie beauty brands as special guests In the beauty world, the rules are reinvented every second and consumers are more and more interested by young, dynamic and innovative brands that share the same values and ideas. These “Indie” brands have quickly become important players in the beauty industry, thanks to social networks. The particularity of these brands lies in their ability to follow trends almost in real time and to offer THE products requested by users. Seen as more agile, authentic, transparent, collaborative and

This year, more than 160 of the most prestigious names in the formulation, packaging, accessories and pigment industries will gather at the Carrousel du Louvre on June 18 and 19. Always attentive to the market and its evolutions, this edition of MakeUp in Paris will present all the “musts” in terms of innovations, trends and expertise for make-up and skin care professionals.

Registrations will be open very soon on the website: 33

1-3 July 2020

Sustainable packagings, responsible consumption




The future of luxury packaging is being eco-constructed in Paris... J O I N U S ! @luxepack




Beautyworld Middle East

Dubai becomes the regional beauty capital The 25th Beautyworld Middle East will be held in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, from August 17th to 19th at Dubai World Trade Centre (DWTC). With the Middle Eastern beauty market predicted to grow by 6.4% (CAGR) by 2025, many organizations look to use Beautyworld Middle East, the region’s largest international beauty and wellness trade fair, as the foundation for new-to-

market products. Six product segments – Cosmetics & Haircare, Hair, Nails & Salon Supplies; Machinery, Packaging & Raw Materials; Fragrance Compounds and Finished Fragrance; personal Care & Hygiene; and Natural & Organic - will host more than 1800 exhibitors over the three days of the event. The market forces influencing the estimated US$ 32.2 billion growth include a high level of disposable income, demand for ethical products and the rise of social media marketing. According to The Middle East Cosmetics Market Outlook 2025, the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and the UAE are the two largest markets for the region, predicted to grow by 12 and 5.8% respectively. Beautyworld


Rosy prospects for the Middle East market will be reflected at the UAE show Middle East will also highlight the growth of male cosmetics in the region. In the UAE, there are estimated to be three men for every woman in the country and like their female compatriots, men in the Middle East are increasingly concerned about the way they look, which is proving to be a boon for the grooming market in the region. The male grooming segment is slated to grow to US$166 billion by 2022 according to Allied Market Research. It will also come into sharp focus at Beautyworld Middle East through its Battle of the Barbers competition, which

is co-organized with the British barbers’ Association. By shining a spotlight on the art of barbering top professionals from across the country will be invited to compete for two titles, ‘UAE’s Bets Barber’ and ‘UAE’s Bets Shave’ titles. Another highlight in this year’s show will be Quintessence: a dedicated area showcasing niche perfumes, proving the region’s knowledge leadership positioning in the global beauty and fragrance fields. In addition to an annual awards show, competitions and live demonstrations on stage, visitors can expect exciting new product launches across male and female cosmetics & skincare, personal care & hygiene, hair, nails & salon supplies; fragrance; machinery, packaging, raw materials & contract manufacturing; as well as natural and organic beauty products.

Important Announcement: Beautyworld Middle East Postponed The 25th edition, which was scheduled to take place from 31 May – 2 June, will now take place from 17 – 19 August 2020 at the Dubai World Trade Centre. The postponement comes amid ongoing international uncertainty around the Covid-19 pandemic which is sweeping the world, with global governments fighting to contain the virus’ spread. Exhibitors, associations, and visitors have expressed their concerns to us, in particular around travel restrictions that would limit the ability of many stakeholders to attend the show in May. We’re also conscious of our duty of care, and reiterate that the safety and well-being of exhibitors and visitors is the highest priority as we navigate these challenging times. We’re carefully watching and taking the advice of the relevant local and global authorities and assure you that all appropriate health and safety measures will be in place when Beautyworld Middle East opens later in the year. The show this year will be notable for being one of the most comprehensive in its 25 years’ of existence in terms of value-added features. The brand new Beautyworld Middle East Awards will spearhead the list of special events in 2020, while Front Row, the Beauty Business Conference, Quintessence, and Nail It! will all return. As passionate advocates for the social and economic benefits of meeting face to face at events, we’re committed to staging yet another successful show in August.



quintessence the art of beauty and scent 17 – 19 August, 2020 Dubai, UAE

Secure your space now!








a high point for beauty

or just over-hyped?


Valérie Kaminov is Founder and Managing Director of the highly successful International Luxury Brand Consultancy based in London. For over 20 years Valérie has been at the forefront of the global cosmetics industry and has worked with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances. Her extensive expertise, commercial acumen and practical experience are much sought after by both iconic global brands and newly emerging talents. Valérie’s wealth of knowledge in international growth strategies and business development is combined with an inspirational and forward-thinking approach. Through her exceptional insight and understanding of the industry Valérie has helped brands amplify their market reach on an international scale, elevate their brand presence and improve their performance. To her clients, she is more than a consultant, she is a trusted asset, advisor, partner and brand guardian. Valérie ’s expertise in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth is particularly highly valued by Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors. Her advanced qualifications and her proficiency in corporate governance have made her a much-desired Board Advisor and Non-Executive Director to well-established companies and pioneering Indie brands. Valérie is also dedicated to passing her knowledge along through a range of conferences and events. She has been a guest speaker at the non-profit organization CEW’ Mentoring Services where leading executives offer guidance and professional development support. As the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) Master of Ceremony, Valérie organizes this influential conference in Europe; it has become a key global gathering for manufacturers, brand owners and distributors to come together to discuss the opportunities and challenges facing the industry and their businesses.

CBD, or giving it its full chemical name Cannabidiol, was the ingredient of 2019. Every week heralding the announcement of yet another new CBD brand or retailer like Walgreen-Boots and Harvey Nichols stocking CBD products. That CBD is now mainstream is underlined by Cosmopak’s creation of a turnkey collection of CBD skincare formulas and textures, launched at Cosmoprof North America this past July. Investment analysts are now also measuring it as a skincare category in its own right; market predictions are incredibly upbeat. Future Market Insights has forecasted CBD skincare to grow by a CAGR of 33% to 2027; Grand View Research a broadly similar 32.9%. Jefferies Investment Group is far more bullish predicting CBD products could form 15% of the total global skincare market within ten years, by which point CBD beauty could reach $25bn in total sales, nearly ten times higher than Grand View’s $1.7 billion sales prediction. But coming down from heady heights, what exactly is CBD, and why is it proving so popular? What meaningful long-term potential does it have within the beauty industry and what are the pitfalls that brands have to overcome if they are to go beyond the current hype?

CBD 101 CBD is just one of over 100 naturally-occurring cannabinoids (think CBN, CBG, CBDA et al) that are found in the cannabis plant, alongside other chemicals. The most plentifully occurring – and infamous – is the psychoactive THC. Selectively bred hemp plants have a THC level of less than 0.5% (cannabis THC levels range from 5-20%) and are abundant in CBD. Hemp oil extracted purely from hemp seeds - long used in The


Body Shop’s iconic hand cream - is rich in vitamin E and omega-3/6 fatty acids, but not cannabinoids. CBD is found at meaningful levels only in full-plant or CBD-only isolate, extracted from the seeds, stalks and leaves of the plant, but not its flowers (see the excellent Regulatory Overview at the end of this article)

How does it work? Cannabinoids work with the human body’s own endocannabinoid system. Our bodies naturally produce endocannabinoids: chemicals that transmit signals between cannabinoid receptors, almost like the baton in a relay race. The system is involved in almost all physiological processes, from emotion, appetite and pain perception and key bodily functions like digestion and immunity; research increasingly showing it seems to act as a natural balancer. There are receptors throughout the body: mainly in the brain and central nervous system but also in our organs, blood and skin. This means our bodies have a natural affinity to uptake external cannabinoids from the cannabis plant whether ingested or topically applied. Cannabinoids amplify each other’s chemistry, working more effectively together rather than in isolated extracted compounds, called the Entourage Effect. This has big implications for formulators and claims.

What are the potential benefits of CBD? From a beauty and personal care perspective, there are a huge number of possible benefits from CBD as an ingredient, although with the strong caveat that it’s still an emerging science. It’s a potent antioxidant, collagen-enhancer and anti-inflammatory, shows potential in tackling acne vulgaris due to anti-microbial effects on p.acnes bacteria and by inhibiting sebum overproduction. It’s also a potent anti-keralytic (reducing the overproduction of skin cell growth) and useful for psoriasis, eczema and keratosis pilaris. There have also been positive effects seen on hair follicles and growth.

Why CBD has become the latest wonder ingredient? Despite the science being thin if promising – as evidenced by the display at the Indie Beauty Expo NYC 2019 where over half of the brands were including it as key ingredient – CBD has benefited hugely from the wider convergence of three key beauty trends. First, the skintellectual trend of zeroing in on transparent, efficacious and novel ingredients as a priority. Second, the exponential growth of natural/ organic/’clean’, which as a plant extract CBD falls right within. And third, an expanded sense of beauty to include wellbeing that states if you don’t feel good, you won’t look good either. Which has seen sleep, sexuality and mood all be integrated into the beauty offer, all working perfectly for CBD’s positive association with mood, painreduction and relaxation.

What does the current CBD beauty offer look like? CBD is now appearing in almost all beauty and personal care formats and applications. From sheet masks, bath bombs and salts, serums, balms, sunscreens, cleansers, shampoos, moisturisers through to personal lubricant, tampons and colour cosmetics such as foundation. Literally for every nook and cranny of the body, face and hair to enhance its condition and – critically - mood. And the brand offer is similarly far-reaching, but critically now in a mainstream, often elegant way. Votary’s Super Seed range, Vertly’s CBD Infused Bath Salts, market-leader MGC Derma’s white and rose gold packaging, OTTO’s aromatherapy roll-ons, Herbivore’s stunningly green Emerald oil and Milk Makeup’s Kush line are all worlds away from hippy, green, leafcovered, explicitly drug-referencing brand design of the original wave of CBD/hemp skincare. Something that has been taken up with aplomb by established brands like Origins, Kiehl’s and Perricone MD.










Certification and transparency – the factors for long-term CBD success What’s clear is that the market is being flooded with new products and brands, with a variety of sometimes extraordinary claims and – due to the fact there is no regulatory system in place – it’s all currently a bit Wild West. The CBD content in extracts can vary from just a few percent, if any, to more than 90% CBD. The hemp cultivation and extraction methods can also be more or less environmentally-friendly. There is also understandable consumer confusion between what CBD, cannabis, hemp, hemp seed oil, cannabis seed oil, actually is, on top of the issue of the opacity over CBD concentration levels in products itself. A unique brand proposition and beautiful design won’t go very far in a crowded market with information-hungry and sceptical consumers. It’s clear that for CBD brands to meaningfully succeed in the long-run as a category beyond the current novelty factor, they will have to be abundantly transparent about claims, supply chain and ingredient quality and concentration. This means brands educating the consumer about what’s actually in their products – explaining the difference between full-, broadspectrum and isolate CBD (and the resulting presence or lack of the Entourage Effect), and then proving its presence beyond doubt. New brand LA LA Leaf provides a QR on pack to link directly to its lab tested certification, for example. Some kind of harmonised external system of grading – similar to SPF – could be highly useful. Notably, private equity company LB Equity has invested in the United State’ Standard Dose e-commerce platform, with a view to using it as a sort of Good Housekeeping seal: Standard Dose only hosts products that have been lab tested and then retests them itself. Block chain could also provide regulator and consumer transparency over where the extract is sourced from, making it easier for beauty brands, retailers and distributors to ensure they stay the right side of the law and deliver the efficacy that consumers want. The future looks to be high for CBD beauty, but only if it can avoid ‘weedwashing’.

Regulatory Overview Dr Mojgan Moddaresi PhD, PharmD, FRSB, CBiol, MRSB Personal Care Regulatory Ltd - That CBD is one of the hottest trends in the cosmetics is undeniable: our company has received over 20 enquiries for compliance of product including CBD just during the last 3 months. Based on EU cosmetic Regulation No1223, 2009: “Cannabidiol (CBD) as such, irrespective of its source, is not listed in the Schedules of the 1961 Single Convention on Narcotic Drugs. However, it shall be prohibited from use in cosmetic products (II/306), if it is prepared as an extract or tincture or resin of Cannabis in accordance with the Single Convention. Please note that national legislations on controlled substances may also apply”. (source Cosmetic Ingredient database, EU commission). However, it is possible for some format of Cannabis extract to be used in cosmetic products (in the UK and only some of the EU states) if certain criteria are met. The Cannabis ingredients used in cosmetic products should follow certain criteria: • The raw material (cannabis) should not contain any controlled substances such as Tetraydrocannabinol (THC) • Ingredient must not be sourced from the flowering or fruit top of the plant. For example following ingredients stem from Cannabis can be used in cosmetic product without any limitation: CANNABIS SATIVA SEED OIL: Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil is the fixed oil expressed from the seeds of Cannabis sativa L., Cannabaceae However, following cannabis ingredient is forbidden to be used in cosmetic product (annex II/306): CANNABIS SATIVA FLOWER EXTRACT: Cannabis Sativa Flower Extract is the extract of the flowers of Cannabis sativa, Cannabaceae. It is important to bear in mind that every member of state may have separate controls for THC and some other cannabinoids. In conclusion, it is very important for brands to seek experts advice at formulation stage or prior to exportation to a new territory.

For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand, please contact us on or visit our website at


29 – 31 OCTOBER 29 – 31 OCTOBER

2020 Sales Office Asia Pacific COSMOPROF INDIA Informa Markets India Pvt. Ltd Mumbai, India MUMBAI P +91 22 6172 7510

F +91 22 6172 7273

Sales Office Europe, Africa, Middle East, The Americas BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 / F +39 02 795 036

A new world for beauty Bologna, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Mumbai, Bangkok

Sales Office Asia Pacific Informa Markets India Pvt. Ltd Mumbai, India P +91 22 6172 7510

Sales Office Europe, Africa, Middle East, The Americas BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. Milan, Italy

A new world for beauty Bologna, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Mumbai, Bangkok

HALLS 2 & 3, BOMBAY EXHIBITION CENTRE (BEC) GOREGAON, MUMBAI HALLS 2 & 3, Organised by Marketing and Promotion BOMBAY BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. EXHIBITION Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420CENTRE (BEC) F +39 02 795 036 GOREGAON, MUMBAI Marketing and Promotion BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420

Organised by





Riflesso Blue Vibe Limited Edition writes a new chapter in the book of introspective men’s fragrances by Trussardi Parfums. After Riflesso, the fragrance of the ego and self-reflection, here is Riflesso Blue Vibe, a composition by Véronique Nyberg which investigates the collective unconscious, the great discovery by Jung on the archetypes that influence the human mind. Here the archetype is Milan, an exciting container of international fashion and customs. The top notes of lime, pink peppercorns and yellow mandarin are like an explosion of icy crystals on the warm embrace of the middle notes (bourbon geranium, cistus, bigarane) and on the unexpected vibrations of the base notes (ambramone, orcanox and driftwood). The iconic bottle stays the same, with a significant colour choice of opaque petrol blue on the glass and metallized on the box. The white wording in relief on the bpottle and on the box underscore the uniqueness of the creation.

Molton Brown

unveil first ever musk fragrance with Milk Musk

Molton Brown, London’s fragrance experts, have further cemented their position as pioneers of British New Guard Perfumery with the release of their first ever musk fragrance, Milk Musk. The new Milk Musk collection offers its users a unique interpretation of a musk fragrance. As one of the earliest scents discovered as a child, the milk accord evokes poignant memories. It’s still a rarely used note, championed by New Guard Perfumery. Milk is entwined with tender musk to create the sensual embrace of skin-on-skin softness. Enlivening top notes of luscious pear and peach balance the fragrance’s powdery depth, while warming white cedarwood and spicy tonka beans conveys the delicate touch of everlasting affection. Senior Perfumer Maïa Lernout says: “Milk Musk conveys the purest embrace. It captures the very soothing, precious and pure bliss when an everlasting bond begins to bloom.” In the own words of Rosie Cook, Molton Brown Associate Director Global Travel Retail, “The new Milk Musk fragrance is an exciting next step for Molton Brown as we lead the way as the pioneers of the New Guard British perfumery. We expect Milk Musk to be a great addition to our portfolio of core fragrances with unique blend of milky notes resonate with the emerging trend we have identified in niche perfumery.” This collection is presented in a Limited Edition aesthetic reflecting the comforting, sensual and tactile nature of the fragrance. Beautiful white gift boxes are elegantly printed with gold thread, and the Bath & Shower Gel and Body Lotion are housed in soft-touch tactile bottles. To support the launch, Molton Brown will run an in-store activation across all their World Duty Free and Lagardère manned counters, offering shoppers a special gift with purchase. Anyone who spends £45, including a Milk Musk item, will receive a complimentary soothing satin eye mask. The launch will also be enhanced with eye-catching visuals, with the Milk Musk collection showcased in cocooning cushions to highlight the pure, gentle and comforting nature of the fragrance. The Milk Musk collection, which launched in Travel Retail, in-store and online on February 26th, includes an Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette, Bath & Shower Gel and Body Lotion.


OCTOBER 12 & 13, 2020 THE BREWERY – LONDON The new Beauty Era | Better for the people and the planet

The very first and unique Clean Beauty trade show! @CleanBeautyinLondon in




To visit: To exhibit:

Dunlop - Engelsrufer Jette - Kaviar Gauche Leonardo Essenza Lufthansa Scotch & Soda Acqua di Portofino Blue Pollack Esse - Evody - Fabi Hugh Parsons - Panama Pineider - Riva

3 Senses GmbH Senefelder Strasse 1/T4 D-63110 Rodgau Profumitalia s.r.l. Via A. Costa, 2 I-20131 Milano tel. +39/02-45375660 Acampora Profumi Bruno Acampora Profumi B.A.P. s.r.l. Via G. Filangieri, 72 I-80121 Napoli tel. +39/081.401701 Air-Val Air-Val Int. s.a. Beverly Hills Fragrances C/Miguel Servet, 27 E-08850 Gava (Barcelona) tel. +34-93/6355335 fax +34-93/6629806 Alyson Oldoini Parfums Luciano Oldoini s.r.l. V.le Geno 10 - I-22100 Como Show-room: Via Montenapoleone, 21 I-20122 Milano Ancorotti Cosmetics Ancorotti Cosmetics s.r.l. Via del Commercio, 1 I-26013 Crema (CR) tel. +39/0373-876811.21 fax +39/0373-876811 Antiqua Firenze Enzo Galardi IO•KO Via Ilio Barontini 22 I-50018 Scandicci (FI) Ars Mirabile - CBN S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. I-Care - Longevity Via della Liberazione, 56 M Masterpiece I-20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) tel. +39-02/98280925 fax +39-02/98280975 Fragrance division: The First s.p.a. Arrogance - GMV Via Fieno, 8 Valentina by Guido Crepax I-20123 Milano Cosmetic division: tel. +39-02/661381 Pikenz fax +39-02/66138519 Astra Giufra S.r.l. Via Veneto, 152 I-06059 Todi (PG) tel. +39-075.8987455 fax +39-075.8987691 Art Cosmetics Art Cosmetics s.r.l. I-24050 Mozzanica (BG) Via E. Mattei, 17/c tel. +39/0363-032011 - Artdeco Artdeco Cosmetic Group Gaussstrasse 13 D-85757 Karlsfeld tel. +49/8131-390100 - fax +49/8131 390129 Aubade - Montana Parfums Montana - Empire of Scents 4, Place Wagram F-75017 Paris tel +33-1/42650072 fax +33-1/42650074 Alain Delon Art & Fragrance SA Jaguar - Lalique Bühlstrasse 1 Nikki Beach Parfums Grès CH-8125 Zollikerberg - Switzerland Ultrasun Direct +41-43/4994532 Phone +41-43/4994500 fax +41-43/4994502 Alessandro Dell’Acqua Euroitalia s.r.l. Dsquared2 - Missoni Via G. Galilei, 1 Moschino - John Richmond I-20040 Cavenago Brianza (MI) Joseph Abboud tel. +39-02/95916.1 Naj Oleari - Versace fax +39-02/95916500 Amarena Eurostyle s.p.a. Bella Oggi I-80035 Nola - Interporto di Nola, Lotto D Blocco 4, Mod. 407/408 tel. +39-081/5108427 fax +39-081/3158162 Aquolina - Baldinini Selectiva s.p.a. Paglieri 1876 S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 Pink Sugar I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 fax +39-0131/6186663 Armand Basi - Angel Schlesser IDESA-Angelini Group Custo - Joaquín Cortés Via Augusta, 59-9 Mandarina Duck - Yekipé E-08006 Barcelona tel. +34-93/2920891 - fax +34-93/2176881 Axis - Hoops - Elanzia INCC Group Esprit de Versailles 85, avenue de Saint Cloud Mercedes-Benz F-78000 Versailles Monaco - Yujin tel. +33/1-39670671 fax + 33/1-39670672 www.inccgroup-parfums-com Balmain Parfums - Celine Interparfums Lanvin - Paul Smith - Roxi 4 Rond Point del Champs Elysées Van Cleef & Arpels F-75008 Paris Jimmy Choo - Mont Blanc tel. +33/1-53770000 fax +33/1-53763626 B.Kolor B.Kolormakeup & Skincare s.p.a. Via Canonica, 79/A - Loc. Geromina I-24047 Treviglio (BG) tel. +39/0363-590011 fax +39/0363-590212

Boutique Cale’

Charriol - Morgan Salvador Dalì Collistar

Confalonieri Matite

Costume National

Coverderm Covermark

diego dalla palma diego dalla palma RVB Lab Enrico Coveri Mariella Arduini Enrico Gi Fragrances

Exclusive division: Braccialini - Byblos - Gandini Genny - Luciano Soprani Transvital Prestige division: Australian - Bionsen La Gazzetta dello Sport Lola - Looney Tunes Renato Balestra - Rockford Franck Olivier


Giorgio Jäneke

Guudcure Pollution Free

Henry Cotton’s - Ducati Gattinoni - Juventus Mcs - Monello Mascalzone NY League

Herbal Essentials

Inika Organic

Intertrade Europe

Jean Couturier Léonard Jesus del Pozo Roberto Verino Starck - Tous Kiko

Garden Cosmetics Via Pigafetta, 20 I-28100 Novara CALE’ s.r.l. Via S. Maria Podone, 5 - I-20123 Milano tel. +39/02-76002494 - fax +39/02-76009407 - Cofinluxe 6, Rue Anatole de la Forge F-75017 Paris tel. +33-1/55377172 - fax +33-1/46229827 Collistar s.p.a. Via Pirelli, 19 I-20124 Milano tel. +39-02/677503 - fax +39-02/6775454 Confalonieri Matite s.r.l. I-23020 Area Industriale - Gordona (SO) tel. +39/0343-42011 - fax +39/0343 42000 Beauty San s.p.a. Via Rimini, 37 - I-59100 Prato tel. +39-0574/43891 - fax +39-0574/438940 Farmeco Head Office: 11 Ag. Glykerios Str. GR-11147 Athens, Greece tel. +30-20/2131701 - fax +30-20/2136036 Branch Office: Strada 6 Palazzo P1 Milano Fiori - I-20089 Rozzano (MI) tel. +39-02/89200150/167 fax +39-02/89200371 Cosmetica s.r.l. Via S. Carlo 28 I-40023 Castel Guelfo (BO) tel. +39-0542/670911 - fax +39-0542/670911 Gold I-20131 Milano - Via Filippo Lippi 10 tel. +39/02_795862 - Enrico Gi Fragrances Via della Tecnica, 32 I-37066 Sommacampagna (VR) tel. +39/045-8960480 fax +39/045-8960482 Eurocosmesi Via Gobetti, 4 I-40050 Funo di Argelato (BO) tel. +39-051/6649238 fax +39-051/6649248

Sodip 21, Boulevard Montmartre F-75002 Paris - France tel. +33-1/40262020 - fax +33-1/42210888 Fedua Cosmetics Via Moretto 27 - I-25122 Brescia tel. +39/030-2590833 - Giorgio Jäneke s.r.l. I-20050 Veduggio (MI) tel. +39-0362/911010 a.r. fax +39-0362/911100 HSA GROUP S.p.A. Via Ugo Foscolo, 27 I-21050 Bisuschio (VA) tel. +39/0332-476554 fax +39/03332-850307 Diamond International s.r.l. Via Foce Cesano,4/9 I-60019 Senigalla (AN) tel. +39/071-6610226 fax +39/071-6611104 Harmony Cosmetics DMCC Office 1906, Reef Tower, Cluster O, Jumeirah Lakes Tower, Dubai, U.A.E. tel. +971/4-4401277 fax + 971/4-4392243 Inika Organic 813 Springvale Road, - Mulgrave VIC - Australia 3170 tel. + 61 3 8544 80000 HI Intertrade Europe Via Portogallo,11/125 I-35127 Padova tel. +39-049/7625241 fax +39-049/762 5177 VAG & Distribution 6, rue Pasquier F-75008 Paris tel. +33-1/58183970 - fax +33-1/40060210 Perfumes y Diseño España, S.L. Isla del Hierro, 5 E-28709 San Sebastian de los Reyes (Madrid) tel. +34-91/6588843 - fax +34-91/6588849 Milano Cosmetics s.r.l. Via Depretis, 6/9 I-24122 Bergamo tel. +39-035/3693611 - fax +39-035/3693612

La Closerie des Parfums






M:PLUS Cosmetics

The Merchant of Venice Police - Replay - Zippo Manila Grace - Blauer USA Pino Silvestre - Monotheme I Profumi di d’Annunzio MI-RE


Nesti Dante



Parfums Pergolèse Paris


Pupa Miss Milkie



Salvatore Ferragamo Ungaro

Teatro Fragranze Uniche

Groupe Panther – La Closerie des Parfums ZI Gradignan Bersol 11 Avenue de la Madeleine F-33173 Gradignan cedex (France) tel +33/ fax +33/ Layla Cosmetics s.r.l. Via dei Pestagalli, 21 I-20138 Milano tel. +39-02/5062052 fax +39-02/5061160 L’Erbolario s.p.a. V.le Milano, 74 - I-26900 Lodi tel. +39/0371-4911 fax +39/0371-491411 Cosval s.p.a. V.le delle Industrie 10/5 I-20020 Arese (MI) tel. +39/02 935 80 479 fax +39/02 935 81 022 Lubin 3, rue du Roule F-75001 Paris tel: +33-1/40677009 fax +33-1/45021316 Lumson S.p.A. Via Tesino, 62-64 I-26010 Capergnanica (CR) tel. +39/0373-2331 fax +39-0373-233355 M:PLUS Cosmetics Via Unità d’Italia, 9/11 I-20065 Inzago (MI) Mavive S.p.A. Via Altinia, 298/B I-30173 Venezia (Dese) tel. +39-041/5417771 fax +39-041/5417798 MI-in Paris 102, rue des Poissonniers F-75018 Paris tel. +33/6-65299995 Parfums Molinard 60, boulevard Victor Hugo F-06130 Grasse tel. +334-92423322 fax +334-89123068 Nesti Dante s.r.l. Via della Molina, 39 I-50010 S.Donnino (FI) tel. +39-055/8739401/2 fax 39-055/8739768 Nouba s.r.l. I-24061 Albano S. Alessandro (BG) Via Santa Barbara, 6 tel. +39/035-581996 fax +39/035-4521099 - Paglieri s.p.a. S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 fax +39-0131/6186663 Parfums Pergolèse Paris 59, Rue De Miromesnil F-75008 Paris Tel. +33-(0)1/53581402 or 1435 Laboratoires Dr. N G Payot 10, boulevard du Parc F-92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine tel. +331/55625454 Micy’s Company s.p.a. Via De Gasperi, 22 I-23880 Casatenovo (LC) tel. +39-039/92341 fax +39-039/89205859 Rancé & C. s.r.l. Via Lombardini, 10 I-20143 Milano tel. +39-02/58100855 fax +39-02/89401058 Officina Profumeria Sarda s.r.l. I-07041 Alghero (SS) tel. + 39/340 3872516 info@officinaprofumeriasarda Salvatore Ferragamo Italia s.p.a. Via dei Tornabuoni, 2 I-20123 Firenze tel. +39-055/33601 fax +39-055/3360734 Teatro Fragranze Uniche s.r.l. Via Pietro Nenni, 26/28 I-50019 Sesto Fiorentino (FI) tel. +39/055.4212240

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