Square Magazine | Third Edition | 2023

a special thank you to

Dr. Debora Wenger &

The School of Journalism and New Media

The Graduate Hotel, Kappa Kappa Gamma Delta Rho, Lou Alidor, Rivers Bryan, Lelia de Gruy, Bailey Fry, Kerri Greene,

Rod'Kendrick Harrison, Joe Hogue, Ava Hutchings, Sloan Hunter, Layton Lawhead, Darby Miles, Owen Ridgeway, Anna Lee Taylor, Cedrick Wilder Jr., every reader, follower, and supporter of Square Magazine. We would be nothing without you and your loyalty. Thank you.

letter from the editors

With sustainability at the forefront of seemingly everyone’s mind, it became the natural focus of this year’s issue. The prevalence of adopting a sense of consciousness of one’s actions and their impact on our world’s longevity has redefined modernity. The value and relevance of “staying on trend” are facing the firing squad as the concept of what it means to be modern gets a makeover.

“Consciously Modern” attempts to explain this ubiquitous mindset through our team’s creative explorations which have materialized on the following pages. Molly and I are overjoyed with the culmination of our team’s dedication and love for this magazine. It is an honor to be a part of this team. Thank you for everything! We hope you enjoy this issue just as much as we loved making it for you!

As it is a prominent theme in our current society, the focus of this year's print edition is sustainability. Now more than ever, it is so important to be aware of how we affect others and the world around us. Within a rapidly changing society, defining what it means to be conscious is a difficult task. For the past few months, our team has made it their mission to redefine what it means to be mindful in a modern world through this year's print. It has been an honor to work with Square since the release of the first print edition until now. I am so grateful for this organization and everyone on our staff. Thank you to everyone who contributed to the print this year; we are immensely proud of how it turned out! I could not be more pleased to share our team's hard work with you!

our team

2022-2023

CO-EDITORS-IN-CHIEF: Elena Ossoski, Molly Roberts

business

BUSINESS DIRECTOR:

ELIZABETH BURNET

Grace Barrett

Joseph Curcio

Taylor Townsend

digital

DIGITAL DIRECTOR:

EMILY BONE

Olivia Blackwell

Kelsey Haltom

Lilly Hunter

casting

CASTING DIRECTOR:

MILLIE CONN

Grace Barrett

Anne-Mclain Hebert

social

SOCIAL MEDIA DIRECTOR:

HALEY CLIFT

Taylor Dedeaux

Alex Filipiak

Lindsey Ingram

creative

CREATIVE DIRECTOR: SHERIDAN MARK

CREATIVE PLANNER:

KAITLYN STEINROEDER

Savannah Armistead

Cameron Cooley

Ruth Emmerich

Akilah Frye

Jasmine Gibbs

IzzyB Goldstein

Alora Gumm

Miranda Hake

Anne-Mclain Hebert

Hollis Ann Newbill

Ruby Reeves

Sofia Sanchez

Sierra Sharp

editorial

COPY EDITOR:

LIV BRILEY RAKOW

Bella Duncan

Madalyn Dudley

Emma Greene

Addie Flasck

Abby Fulmar

Katie Kerrigan

Kate Kimberlin

Hailey Layne

Claire Watkiss

Aliza Warner

visuals

Savannah Armistead

Cameron Cooley

Akilah Frye

Elena Ossoski

Kaitlyn Steinroeder

Ruth Emmerich

Lilly Hunter

Kate Kimberlin

Elena Ossoski

PHOTOS DESIGN

Olivia Blackwell

Emily Bone

Kelsey Haltom

Lilly Hunter

Sheridan Mark

Elena Ossoski

Molly Roberts

what's inside?

IN A HAZE…..7

HOW TODAY'S TRENDS INSPIRE CONSUMERS TO SHOP SECONDHAND…..16

INSIDE OXFORD'S VINTAGE COMMUNITY…..19

A MOTHER'S LOVE…..25

TRENDY NOW, TRASHY LATER…..29

THE ULTIMATE SUSTAINABLE WARDROBE…..33

FINE DINING…..36

AN ODE TO EVERYTHING WE CHERISH…..45

THE DOUBLE-EDGED SWORD OF INFLUENCER CULTURE…..51

BACK IN TIME…..55

in a haze

How Today's Trends Consumers to Shop

Secondhand

BY: CLAIRE WATKISS

In part with being drawn to the buzz of social media, we are subject to scrolling past hundreds of alerts and ads daily. Depending on what your interests are, you may be seeing the newest piece of technology, what recipe to try next, or the latest trend in the fashion world.

When it comes to knowing what to buy and what trend to follow next, it can be hard to keep up amidst the online noise. Some consumers are looking for a quick fix and simply click “add to cart” without thinking twice. It seems that there has been a shift from this mindset toward looking in our own closets. With trends fleeting faster than ever before, there is a push to make do with what we already own. This poses a new opportunity for the world of fashion and sustainability. Online trends such as the “coastal grandmother,” or the resurgence of Y2K fashion do not always require the

consumer to shop, but rather encourage consumers to repurpose pieces from thrift stores or an older family member's closet to achieve the look.

Social media has seen an increase in influencers whose pages are solely focused on secondhand fashion. They take their viewers along with them to thrift and create outfits. There seems to be a demand for vintage pieces and a worn-in look, and as a result, buying something brand new is no longer necessary.

If you were to look up the top fashion trends of 2022, you would come across items such as trench coats, crochet sweaters, cropped cardigans, sweater vests, hoodies under blazers, bucket hats, and wide-leg pants. While there will always be certain items from a specific brand that blow up on social media, many of the trends from this past year did not require consumers to go buy something brand new. The biggest trends inspired shoppers to look elsewhere before buying something new. Blue and white striped button-ups, white sweater vests, low-waisted vintage Levi’s, and baby tees were some of the most sought-after pieces.

At the beginning of 2022, ThreadUp, an online resale platform, conducted a survey finding, “sixty-two percent of Gen Z and millennial consumers said they look for items secondhand before buying new” and, “almost half of Gen Z and millennial consumers (46%) consider the potential resale value of an item before purchasing it.”

“Fast fashion” is something that conscious shoppers try to avoid. The life cycle of a fast fashion product rapidly completes itself as it races from production to the dumpster. Consumers preferring to shop secondhand is exactly what the world needs.

Large corporations are doing their best to adapt to the high demand for secondhand shopping. Urban Outfitters One-of-a-Kind Vintage, Patagonia Worn Wear, and Levi’s SecondHand are just a few examples of major retailers adjusting their sales models by implementing resale platforms in order to respond to the growing concern about sustainability.

The new ways in which we are seeing trends interpreted show that there have been significant improvements made in relation to sustainability. While the fashion industry has a long way to go, many influencers are helping to change the behaviors of consumers by promoting secondhand shopping and using what we already own. A larger effort will need to be made by corporations in cutting back on the rapid production rates, but consumers are the most important voice to impact change. By prioritizing sustainable shopping and looking to purchase from secondhand retailers first, consumers can be the driving force behind creating a fashion industry that is deserving of our respect.

"Consumers can be the driving force behind creating a fashion industry that is deserving of our respect."

Inside OXFORD's Vintage Community

BY: KATIE KERRIGAN ART BY: ELENA OSSOSKI

There is no denying that thrifting has seen a surge in popularity as conversations surrounding conscious purchasing and the environmental impacts of the clothing industry have been growing. This new world of quality over quantity has us examining the benefits of thrifting over buying something new. In Oxford, Mississippi, the vintage and secondhand community has been thriving, helping students grow their own businesses and giving others a chance to shop for unique clothes.

“I’ve always gone to the thrift store to look for my outfits,” says Hogue on where some of the inspiration for Pop

Up Oxford came from. “I just kind of fell in love with vintage and old clothes, and wanted to push that love to everyone else in Oxford.”

At the head of Oxford’s vintage scene is Joe Hogue, founder of Pop Up Oxford. Pop Up Oxford is an event held every few months to serve as a venue for local vintage and secondhand businesses to sell directly to their community.

Some potential reasons for the newfound popularity of thrifting are lower prices, lessening the environmental burden, and the possibility of finding chic vintage pieces.

Thrifting can also come with sentimental value. One perspective might be that thrifting clothing and accessories is an opportunity to collect pieces that have

their own stories. The usual wear and tear with pre-owned items is no longer a deal-breaker, but rather a game-changer.

“I personally think that people love any opportunity to be unique,” said Hogue. “I think there are stories in all these clothes, and people can embody these stories as they wear them.”

In addition to organizing the events, Hogue sometimes sells his own pieces. While many people come to the pop-ups to shop, Hogue said the events have additionally become a place for people to get together and hang out.

“None of this could be possible without any of my vendors,” said Hogue.

The Oxford native founded Pop Up Oxford back in April of 2022. With support from the Yoknapatawpha Arts Council, a local organization dedicated to enriching the arts in Oxford, the events have become popular amongst those looking for one-of-a-kind items.

“I just kind of fell in love with vintage and old clothes, and wanted to push that love to everyone else in Oxford.”

Cedrick Wilder Jr. is the owner and operator of Blitzz Vintage in the Oxford area. Wilder’s inspiration to start Blitzz Vintage began with his love of skateboarding. The Flowood, Mississippi native first got into skateboarding back in 2019, and found that his clothes and shoes were struggling to keep up with the hobby. The falls, scrapes, and tumbles meant Wilder was frequently in need of new clothes, and rather than spending money buying new pieces, he realized he could thrift his wardrobe instead.

Since getting his start, Wilder has built Blitzz Vintage into a business that has garnered over 1,300 Instagram followers and sells consistently at pop-ups in Oxford. As for the clothing he sells, he tries to stick mainly to vintage t-shirts, though he notes any piece of Ole Miss apparel is popular. Wilder also researches and assesses the demand for each piece he finds to inform how to price each item.

“That’s the cool thing about it because you’re still learning about what people were wearing back in the 90s, what was the popular thing…so the research is really the fun part about it,” Wilder said.

“I got to the point where I was going to the thrift store consistently, and I had just gotten too many clothes…and I was like, well, I might as well just start selling them,” Wilder said.

Another vintage seller in the Oxford area is Owen Ridgeway. He started his vintage clothing operation, Bigo, when he was a senior in high school. Now a sophomore at the University of Mississippi, Ridgeway has turned his attention to yet another vintage venture. His new project is called Sell VNTG, an online platform for vintage sellers like himself. With Sell VNTG, sellers can list their items and make sales completely online.

“I have my community that I sell to in Oxford; I have a great customer base here. But there’s no reason why people shouldn’t be able to sell their vintage across the world,” said Ridgeway. “It’s great to do pop-up shops, but being able to get that type of reach is definitely more ideal for a long term plan with this.”

While Ridgeway still participates in local pop-up events and loves meeting customers in person, he hopes to focus more on the e-commerce aspect of his business going forward.

Similar to many conversations surrounding the fashion industry and personal style, there is more to vintage and secondhand clothing than meets the eye. Whether it is approached out of concern for the issue of sustainability, or the opportunity to curate an eclectic wardrobe with pieces others may not own, thrifting and vintage shopping exists positively within the retail space.

“Whether it’s keeping big brands that already sell consistently, or just helping the smaller guys grow, we just want to help people make more sales. Because vintage is hotter now than it ever has been before, and people love it, they just don’t know where to find it,” said Ridgeway. “That’s why we’re trying to build this digital vintage marketplace.”

Something to take away is that there is a difference between building a quality wardrobe and buying pieces that simply follow a trend or catch your eye in that moment. When you choose pieces that are specific to your style and interests, you lay the foundation for representing yourself authentically, whatever that may mean to you.

"Vintage is hotter now than it ever has been before"

A MOTHER’S LOVE

No matter how long we wish to remain in denial, we all eventually become our mothers. They nourish us from the second we are born with love, wisdom, and style. As toddlers, we may have pranced around the house playing dress-up in comically large heels and grown up into adults begging for their vintage bags. As pieces are passed down through generations, children give a mother's clothes a second life, showing the garments the same love that dwells unconditionally between kin.

rendynow,trashylat e r

BY: EMMA GREENE

tART BY: EMILY BONE, ELENA OSSOSKI

The world moves faster by the minute. As the internet provides over half of the global population with nearly instant communication via social media, fast fashion brands have gained access to online audiences which have become scarily larger.

Fast fashion is the mass-market production of low-quality, low-priced clothing that ultimately leads to increased textile waste and rapid wardrobe turnover. The speed and volume at which users and brands interact online have had a concrete impact on the fashion industry and its

traditional trend cycles. Advanced consumer tracking allows advertisements and social media algorithms to directly cater to individual users' likes and dislikes, thus allowing each user an irreplicable experience as they connect online.

Due to increasingly specific niches on social media platforms such as Instagram and TikTok, what one user perceives as trendy or fashionable is often contradictory to another's opinion, even if they fall into the same demographic parameters. With such individualized content online, the twenty-

year trend cycle has virtually disappeared, forced out of the spotlight by “micro-trends” which appear and disappear online within a matter of weeks.

Although this lack of trends opens the door for fashionistas everywhere to find their personal styles, it simultaneously leads those who enjoy or even rely on trends, to consume harmful fast fashion items with more gusto than ever before. Fast fashion, or throwaway fashion, was first seen in the 1960s as paper dresses briefly appeared and disappeared on the market. These pieces allowed women to wear a new dress every day, although they could only be worn once.

In the early 2000s, “boho chic” took the fashion world by storm. The phenomenon of online shopping widely increased brand visibility and customer bases, and the race to the bottom on price and by extension, quality, began. This low quality comes at a low price, making it easily accessible. Although accessibility is a positive for some, it is often taken advantage of, allowing low-quality clothing to be overconsumed. Purchasing copious amounts of clothing from fast fashion brands, especially

Chinese online retailer Shein, has become a common practice among high school and college-aged women. Its popularity has grown in part by TikTok’s “Shein Haul” trend where creators film themselves opening hundreds of dollars worth of fast fashion items. Said videos have amassed billions of views, turning overconsumption into a trend of its own.

In April 2022, Shein was valued at $100 billion which is more than powerhouses H&M and Zara combined. Due to the low quality of fast fashion items, their wearability is greatly decreased, thus quickening wardrobe turnover and increasing the amount of clothing in landfills each year. According to the New York Times, “nearly three-fifths of all clothing ends up in incinerators or landfills within a year of being produced.”

The textile industry is the world’s leading polluter of fresh water sources and is responsible for an estimated 8-10% of global carbon emissions. This number is expected to rise and clothing consumption is predicted to triple by 2050 from the current rate of 80 billion items per year.

In addition to increasing waste, this throwaway culture has caused an influx of

low-quality clothing being donated to thrift stores around the globe. These items often crowd out those of higher quality in secondhand shops, allowing another customer base to fall victim to their low, and sometimes dangerous quality.

In addition to Shein, other brands such as Zaful and AliExpress are under fire, as their clothing was found to contain harmful amounts of lead and phthalates by CBC Marketplace. These chemicals are harmful not only to the health of supply chain workers but to the health of the planet, as toxic chemicals are flushed into landfills and waterways. The textile dyeing and finishing industry is the leading polluter of freshwater resources. The degree to which this influx of toxic materials will damage the health of the planet and its population is unknown.

To avoid contributing to the harmful impacts of fast fashion, consumers can purchase quality secondhand items through traditional secondhand stores or online through secondhand retailers. In the process, one may even find a new spark for a trendless, individual style.

"Although accessibility is a positive for some, it is often taken advantage of, allowing low-quality clothing to be overconsumed."

Ultimate The Sustainable Wardrobe

BY: BELLA DUNCAN

ART BY: LILLY HUNTER, ELENA OSSOSKI

When something is labeled “sustainable,” it usually means the practice or item is able to be upheld or defended over an extended period of time. What makes a wardrobe sustainable? There are many different definitions for this concept-turnedphenomenon, but the ultimate sustainable wardrobe is full of clothes you truly love.

With the recent changes in trend cycle timelines, it is crucial to seek out trends within your own wardrobe. In the past, the life cycle of trends was anywhere from a year to multiple decades. Micro-trends on the other hand, have been shown to last anywhere from a few weeks or months to a couple of years maximum. Discarding and buying new trendy items to keep up with these micro-trends is not sustainable, yet it is what consumers online are being encouraged to do.

The concept of creating a sustainable wardrobe has arguably become a trend in itself, seen in the recent popularity of capsule wardrobes. Calculations of how many pairs of jeans, shoes, and shirts a closet needs to be complete dominate

social media feeds. With these ideas, the true enemy remains at bay: the idea of conforming your wardrobe to any set formula. Though curating a wardrobe of neutrals and basics may not feel like participating in a trend, if this style of clothing does not align with your personal style, it is just another trend waiting to be replaced. A truly sustainable wardrobe will be uniquely formulated for its wearer.

The integrity of clothing has taken a major hit due to the rise of the fast fashion industry. Fast fashion pieces are created with synthetic fibers like nylon, polyester, and acrylic as a way to curb expenses and produce the most amount of product for the lowest price. These pieces contribute to micro-plastic pollution and do not hold up to the test of time. Clothing articles with natural fibers such as cotton, wool, silk, and linen are not only better for the environment, but more comfortable and wearable over time.

Overconsumption in today’s age of digital media is a serious and daunting problem. Endless scrolling through online stores and social media has created a competitive environment for consumption. There is always something new, meaning the increasingly short trend timeline has created a culture of never-ending selfreinvention. Consumers feel a constant need to obtain ultra-specific items to fit into a given aesthetic instead of working with items they already have.

Battling overconsumption and trend shopping begins with self-reflection. Think about the silhouettes and colors that make you feel best, what you are typically drawn to in your closet or in stores, and what pieces have remained a constant in your wardrobe. Pinterest boards, Instagram saves, and abandoned online shopping carts are telling of what you tend to gravitate towards. Pay attention to the patterns of your own consumption.

Intentional shopping is the greatest tool to creating a sustainable and satisfying

wardrobe. Avoid buying things only because they are on sale, shop out of season to see what past trends you still like, and decide what constitutes a basic for your style. Buying a piece at a discounted price that you would not have purchased otherwise still takes up the same amount of room in your wardrobe. Curating a closet full of purposeful pieces creates ease for styling.

Sustainability has a different meaning in each wardrobe. Closets cannot be deduced to a calculated formula; they should stem from personal style. Purpose and intentionality should be at the forefront of any sustainable wardrobe.

FINE DINING

From nickel bangles to plastic "gemstones," cheap and cheerful jewelry is not so cheerful after all. Just as time eats away at the metal, the overconsumption of low-quality jewelry slowly eats away at our environment, leaving us with green skin and surrounded by cracked, snapped, or broken garbage.

An Ode to Everything We

BY: ALIZA WARNER

ART BY: RUTH EMMERICH

CHERISH

There are many ways items are given worth such as financial value, rarity, history, and societal appraisal. Does an item need to have those qualities to be deemed valuable? Perhaps the highest value is often overlooked, and that is the kind that comes from how an item is cherished and why it is loved.

There is something beautiful about cherishing an object, especially throughout one's lifetime. In society, we hear phrases like “family heirloom” and see the tradition come to life in passeddown engagement rings and lockets. Cherishing an item is not limited to jewelry.

A piece of clothing, a book, a photo, or even a small object like a child’s stuffed animal can hold value and be passed on. Passing on a cherished item is not limited to family members either; it is practiced all throughout society. The gift we give to a friend, the art seen in a museum, the items we donate, and the historical artifacts that archivists work hard to preserve all serve as a form of inheritance for future generations. The beauty of cherishing something is a phenomenon seen throughout history and cultures all over the world.

On the surface, it seems superficial to treasure an object, but there is a reason why there are some items we put value into. A particular item can keep something alive: a family’s history, the memory of a loved one, a friendship over the years, a romantic relationship, or a momentous occasion we want to remember. Whatever that memory or story is, we all yearn to preserve it and share the past with someone else by passing the item on.

In the fashion world, the stigma of repeating older outfits remains in a modern culture that cycles trends faster than ever. Prioritizing seeking new pieces over using the ones we already own is not sustainable. Practicing valuing objects we currently possess should be encouraged if one is able to do so

The true beauty of cherishing an item is that everyone can partake in it. The piece does not need to be a financial investment or have been passed down through multiple generations; it can be an item you own right now full of memories and stories. Treasure and take care of whatever that item may be and, if you wish, pass it on to keep its memory alive for years to come.

BY: LIV BRILEY RAKOW

D

E

D O U B L E

S W O R D t h e

o f I n f l u e n c e r C u l t u r e

ART BY: KATE KIMBERLIN

The term “sustainable influencer” may seem like an oxymoron, but there is more to the job of an influencer than meets the eye. Social media has paved the way for fashion and beauty content creators, no longer limiting the title and its infinite interpretations to celebrities and moguls. While it is apparent that influencer culture and fast fashion have a positive correlation, we must also acknowledge online presences who strive to promote sustainable fashion and provide information about ethical sourcing and environmentally-friendly manufacturing practices to their followers.

Social media allows for connection between people all over the world, and while it creates opportunities for community and the exchange of knowledge, it has also led to an exponential increase in the speed of the trend cycle. In the past, it took trends much longer to reach the masses following their initial appearances in television shows or magazines. Due to the fast-paced nature of the online shopping experience in the modern marketplace, trends that appear online are able to be replicated and distributed at record speeds. Social media provides a platform for trends to develop almost instantaneously as well as a significant amount of pressure for people to keep up with them.

While influencer status was limited to actors, musicians, and socialites in the past, people can now grow their

following quickly online. This new group of “micro-influencers” are seemingly more in touch with their audience. To reach this level of social media stardom, micro-influencers must have a lifestyle that people admire, leading to the inevitable consumption of goods by their followers to attain a similar status. After all, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Since there are more influencers than ever, nearly every social media user has someone they look to for inspiration and a commitment to supporting the trends that are put in motion.

The world of fast fashion has been set up by influencers and funded by their loyal followers. It is easy to acknowledge that influencer culture and fast fashion are linked to the high rates of pollution and waste being generated by companies within the fashion and beauty industries. Like all seemingly horrible parts of the modern world, there is a positive side to the enormity of influencer culture.

promote fast fashion habits, but rather focus on sharing their sustainable shopping habits and brands that reduce their carbon footprint.

Shopping secondhand has grown in popularity over the past few years which may be linked to the influencers who have supported the practice.

People like Emma Chamberlain, one today’s most recognizable influencers, who thrift their clothing and promote it as the “cool” thing to do, encourage followers to do the same.

Online thrift shopping has become increasingly popular as well, as platforms like Poshmark and Depop sponsor influencers to help their message reach a wider audience. Brand partnerships can promote more waste as they encourage people to purchase more goods, but it has also allowed brands focused on decreasing fashion waste to thrive in the marketplace.

Some of the most influential names within the fashion and beauty sphere do not

When influencers reach a certain following, many make the decision to

here is a long road ahead full of evolution and improvement

grow their online presence by creating their own brand of clothing or beauty products that their followers can buy. Some of the biggest influencer-run brands right now are focused on sustainability. Matilda Djerf, who has become a fashion icon through social media, created her company Djerf Avenue in 2019. The brand is focused on sustainability and even has a resale website to encourage consumers to buy secondhand.

Within the beauty industry, “skin-fluencer” Hyram Yarbro started his brand Selfless by Hyram, a company that promotes being a friend to the environment, last year. Every product purchased helps to provide clean drinking water or protect tropical forests from deforestation.

While it is important to call attention to the negative sides of social media and the influencers it creates, it is also important to acknowledge those who are using it for good. The issue of sustainability in the fashion and beauty industries is complicated, and there is a long road ahead full of evolution and improvement, but it is clear that there are people using their digital platforms to help drive the movement, even if it is just one step at a time.

BACK IN TIME...

...or a portrait of today?