Fah Thai Magazine JulAug 2024

JUL-AUG 2024

BANGKOK AFTER DARK Read more

GOLDEN GRAINS: THAI RICE TRADITION

THAILAND’S NATURAL GEMS

UNVEILING UTHAI THANI

COMPLIMENTARY COPY SUPPORT SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL

Premier Community Mall & Nightlife Entertainment A new landmark of Koh Samui, a destination for people from around the world Located in a prime spot in the heart of Chaweng Beach Road, under the concept DISCOVER YOUR PARADISE, Haven Samui caters to every lifestyle, offering a complete range of enjoyment and happiness.

Join us for this exciting experience at the best location on Chaweng Beach today

Coming in December 2024

For space rental or more information,

contact: 082 898 1111

www.havensamui.com

havensamui

@havensamui

info@havensamui.com

Address: Moo 2, Bo Phut, Koh Samui District, Surat Thani 84320 Thailand (Opposite to Banana Fan Sea Resort)

LONG LIVE HIS MAJESTY KING MAHA VAJIRALONGKORN BODINDRADEBAYAVARANGKUN Bangkok Airways and Fah Thai magazine join Thailand in wishing His Majesty the King the very best on the Auspicious Occasion of His 6th Cycle Birthday Anniversary on July 28, 2024.

MESSAGE FROM THE PRESIDENT

8

BANGKOK AIRWAYS PUBLIC COMPANY LIMITED

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Editor-in-Chief Anutra Ungsuprasert Sub Editor Ramona Varma Deputy Editor Sarita Urupongsa Contributors Ariya Chaiyarit Jeremie Schatz Kankanit Wichiantanon Khetsirin Pholthampalit Phoowadon Duangmee Pinanong Panchuen Richard Augustin Ron Emmons Contributing Photographers Anutra Ungsuprasert Navarat Nunimitr Pinanong Panchuen Rajadej Na-Nagara Rinrin Intravijit Ron Emmons

ART

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10

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“FAH THAI” is the in-flight magazine of Bangkok Airways Public Company Limited and is edited and published by MPMI Group Co., Ltd. All articles and photographs published herein are created by the authors and photographers at their own discretion and do not necessarily represent the views of the airline. Bangkok Airways holds no responsibility or liability arising out of the publication of such articles and photographs.

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OVERTURES 16 SAVE THE DATES

Exploring the unique flavour and textures of Hor Mok, Thailand’s steamed fish mousse infused with rich red curry and coconut milk.

18 GOING LOCAL

26 SENSATIONAL SOM CHENG

Sustainability is a collective journey towards creating a liveable future for all. When choosing local, you support local traditions, empower communities and make a positive impact on the world.

20 UTTERLY UTHAI THANI Discover Uthai Thani, where serenity meets adventure. Dive into central Thailand's enchanting haven of culture, nature, and unforgettable moments!

12

24 SPICY SOUFFLE

Check out what’s new and happening across Bangkok Airways’ destinations – from music to sports events.

Unpeeling the mystery of Som Cheng, a blend of pomelo and orange flavours ideal for juicing or enhancing your morning fruit plate.

28 HAPPY GHOSTS FEST

One of Thailand’s weirdest festivals, Phi Ta Khon Festival haunts the northeastern town of Dan Sai with masked processions, ancient traditions, and raucous parties.

32 DIVINE DINING AND STAYS

Explore vibrant bars, authentic Thai food, and beachside barbecues.

Discover luxurious beachfront resorts on Koh Samui and urban retreats in Phnom Penh.

FEATURES

HAPPENINGS

CORPORATE

42 OLD BANGKOK AFTER DARK

Check out hip hangouts in Thailand and its neighbours.

84 BANGKOK AIRWAYS NEWS 89 ROUTE MAP

52 PADDY POWER

72 SAMUI 76 PHUKET / KRABI 78 CHIANG MAI / PATTAYA / TRAT 79 BANGKOK 80 HONG KONG / SINGAPORE 81 PHNOM PENH / SIEM REAP / LUANG PRABANG

The city’s historic quarter comes alive at night, with historical beauties and culinary delights among countless discoveries awaiting visitors.

Delve into the vibrant heart of Thai tradition – a rich rice culture that beckons with golden paddies and lively harvest festivals.

CHECKING OUT 90 THREE WHALE ROCKS

Discover Bueng Kan province’s awe-inspiring Hin Sam Wan – three giant whale-shaped formations that offer breathtaking views over a lush forest landscape.

This month’s cover: Old Bangkok by Starlight

62 HEAVENLY NATURE

Unveiling the breathtaking beauty of Thailand's 7 best national parks, from northern jungles to southern corals.

42 The Floral Passage

13

ESSENTIAL NOTES TO GUIDE YOUR TRAVELS

Ghostly Fun Dive into the spooky chaos of the Phi Ta Khon festival in Loei!

Enjoy the ghostly parade of locals in colourful masks and costumes, dancing through the streets in a lively celebration of the spirit world. This unique festival blends ancient traditions with joyous revelry, offering an unforgettable experience of Thailand’s rich heritage and festival spirit.

NEWS & EVENTS 16 / SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL 18 / THAILAND TREASURES 20 / A TASTE OF THAILAND 24 / FRUITFUL FINDS 26 / ARTS & CULTURAL MATTERS 28 / CHECKED-IN 32

15

OVERTURES

24-27

Photos: Maldives Surfing Association

NEWS AND EVENTS

JUL 2024

MALDIVES

5-7

JUL 2024

KOH SAMUI

TEMBO ART & STYLE

TEMBO Art & Style returns on July 5-7 to celebrate the talent of the many local and international artists and performers who live on Koh Samui and Koh Phangan.

The event showcases various forms of artistic expression ranging from painting and sculpture to photography, fashion, and more.

Highlights of this edition include an art market, a TRASHion show with models wearing nothing but trash, and a fashion show featuring models of different ethnicities and sizes showcasing island chic.

Guests can also look forward to DJs and live music, a “Tembola” with prizes up for grabs, face painting and giant sand sculpture. A portion of the proceeds will be donated to care for the island’s street dogs. +66 (0) 81 161 8828, www.tembo-samui.com

16

Photos: TEMBO

DHIVEHI SURF LEAGUE

As waves peak, the Maldivian National Surf League will make the most of natural conditions to host the year’s third event at Muleekolhu Raalhugandu in Muli, Meemu Atoll. More than just a competition for the surfing community, the Dhivehi Surf League is designed for junior athletes to showcase their abilities across several categories.

For spectators, the event delivers spectacular surfing against the awe-inspiring backdrop of the Maldives’ natural beauty. www.facebook.com/MSAsurfing

26-30

JUL 2024

HONG KONG

ANI-COM & GAMES HONG KONG 2024

From humble beginnings as a book fair in 1999, the Ani-Com & Games Hong Kong is now one of the biggest animation, comics and games fairs in the world. This year’s edition will bring thousands of artists together to showcase their creativity in comics, anime design and cosplay competitions. Visitors will also get to discover the fun, unconventional side of Hong Kong.

Venue: Hall 1, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong; ani-com.hk/en

12-18

AUG 2024

MALDIVES

MALDIVES INTERNATIONAL CHALLENGE 2024

The world’s top shuttlers head to Male in August for the Maldives International Challenge 2024. Organised by the Badminton Association of Maldives, the BWF-sanctioned event will feature international star players competing across multiple categories.

This year’s competition should be another fiercely contested affair with players jockeying for points to move up the BWF rankings.

Last year, a total of 304 players converged on the Maldivian capital to test their mettle in five categories. This year’s Maldives International Challenge will no doubt display the same level of rivalry with a US$15,000 purse up for grabs. Male Sports Complex; www.badmintonmaldives.org.mv

SIEM REAP

24-25

A collision of modern sports and ancient heritage, the Khmer Empire Marathon remains one of the most anticipated running events on the Southeast Asian calendar. Held in August this year, the unique running event – the ninth instalment thus far – will see participants tackling a course that winds through the World Heritage Site of Angkor Wat. Runners can choose from 3, 10, 21 and 42-kilometre routes, treading a thousand-yearold path that skirts some 40 iconic temple ruins. The course also passes through Angkor’s preserved forestland, beautiful villages and verdant rice fields. 4 August; Angkor Wat; www.cambodia-events.org

Hailing from Japan, the famed Summer Sonic music festival brings together top local and international talents. It also offers rising young stars the chance to make their concert debut and connect with fans.

Summer Sonic’s Bangkok edition will feature two days of live performances by established and up-and-coming Thai and Japanese outfits. The festival also promises an immersive light-and-sound show as well as installation art and sumptuous street-food offerings. Venue: Impact Challenger Hall 1-3, Muang Thong Thani, Bangkok; tickets available at www.thaiticketmajor.com

04

AUG 2024

AUG 2024

BANGKOK

Photos: Stephan Rothe/Muktasim Azlan/frame harirak

SUMMER SONIC BANGKOK

Photos: Cambodia-Events.Org/ allPhoto Bangkok @ Unsplash

KHMER EMPIRE MARATHON

17

OVERTURES SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL

Choose Local

Here are some ideas on how mindful travellers can leave a sustainable footprint wherever they go Southeast Asia beckons travellers with an enchanting blend of tropical beaches, iconic cultural landmarks, warm hospitality, and tantalising cuisine. But beyond its allure as a holiday hotspot lies a rich tapestry of 666 million people, indigenous traditions, fragile ecosystems, sacred sites and endangered wildlife.

Most mindful travellers recognise the impacts they have on the destinations they visit, and one meaningful way to leave a positive footprint is to actively support local communities throughout your journey.

This support can take many forms – from embracing traditional village life and lending a hand on farms to savouring authentic cultural performances. As you traverse the stunning landscapes of Southeast Asia, here are some places that don’t just offer an enriching experience, but also allow you to contribute positively.

In the picturesque North of Thailand, Chiang Mai offers a hidden gem – Perception Blind Massage. This ancient practice offers not just therapy, but also meaningful employment to the visually impaired, serving as a beacon of empowerment.

For wildlife enthusiasts, the Gibbon Rehabilitation Project in Phuket promises an unforgettable firsthand experience of conservation efforts contributing to the preservation of Thailand’s natural heritage.

In Sukhothai, six hours north of Bangkok by road, precious windows on local life exist among the plethora of hotels and resorts.

For an authentic experience, consider patronising locally owned establishments like Ban Na Ton Chan. Here, communitybased tourism allows visitors to immerse fully in Thailand’s vibrant cultural mosaic by enjoying rustic charm, traditional cooking classes and authentic homestays.

In Cambodia’s ancient city of Siem Reap, prepare to be mesmerised by the transformative power of performing arts at Phare, the Cambodian Circus. This social enterprise showcases the talents of disadvantaged youth in captivating performances while also fostering empowerment and education within the local community.

In the old capital of Laos, Luang Prabang, the Living Land Farm invites visitors to learn sustainable agricultural practices. By participating in rice cultivation alongside local farmers, you gain a deeper appreciation of traditional farming methods while supporting the preservation of Lao agricultural heritage.

Each of these encounters in Southeast Asia unfolds a story of responsible exploration and leaves behind a positive legacy in the communities visited. Embrace the ethos of sustainable travel and embark on a journey that enriches both your soul and the world around you.

WORDS PHOOWADON DUANGMEE

Experience the authentic charm of Ban Na Ton Chan, a Thai communitybased tourism initiative in Sukhothai that serves up delightful local cuisine and picturesque rural vistas

18

OVERTURES THAILAND TREASURES

Clockwise from Left Vendors offer boatloads of sweet and savoury treats to morning shoppers at the floating market on the Sakae Krang River Wild animals at Huai Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary An aerial view of the Sakae Krang River and the city along its banks

In the heart of Thailand, where the Sakae Krang River gracefully meanders, lies the tranquil province of Uthai Thani. As dawn paints the landscape gold, the countryside’s enchanting tale unfolds in age-old harmony.

Long-tail boats glide by the iconic Wat Bot, a timeless beacon of Buddhist devotion.

Across the river, a solitary monk drifts along in a small sampan, receiving morning alms from locals in a centuries-old tradition.

In Uthai Thani, just three hours north of bustling Bangkok, each moment invites a new discovery, from historic temples to serene waters.

Begin your adventure at the bustling Sakae Krang Riverside Morning Market, the pulsating heart of the province.

As dawn breaks, the market springs to life with vendors and eager shoppers converging on the riverbank for a riotous tapestry of sights, sounds, and smells.

Immerse yourself in the fragrance of fresh produce and the sizzle of tantalising local delicacies, including the renowned “pla raed” fish. The market is also an opportunity to plunge into community life by taking part in the morning alms giving.

Next on your itinerary is the revered Wat Uposatharam, fondly known as Wat Bot. Steeped in history and spirituality, this sanctuary by the Sakae Krang River dates back three centuries to the early Rattanakosin Era (1782-1932). Traverse its sacred halls of mesmerising murals and ancient artefacts to reach the “Ubosot”, where you can bathe in the golden glow of the temple’s Buddha statue. This Sukhothai-era (1238-1438) treasure depicts the Buddha subduing the demon Mara, encouraging visitors to reflect on the journey to enlightenment.

Uthai Thani: All Aboard Thailand’s Time Machine Tranquil traditions and untouched wilderness on a journey through the kingdom’s past glories Words: Phoowadon Duangmee

20

Clockwise from Left The ancient Wat Uposatharam, fondly called Wat Bot, sits on the bank of Sakae Krang River Wat Chantharam dates back to the Ayutthaya period Deities grace the walls at Wat Tha Sung

More than just a scenic backdrop, the Sakae Krang River is a way of life for a unique community of boat dwellers whose existence is intricately tied to its ebb and flow. Comprising around 350 registered households, these residents rely on the river for their daily sustenance and livelihoods – from fishing to cultivating floating gardens. Their way of life has remained unchanged for centuries, offering visitors a fascinating window into a bygone era preserved along the riverbank.

Closer to Uthai Thani’s downtown, Wat Chantharam, aka Wat Tha Sung, greets visitors with a storied past and architectural splendours. Dating back to the Ayutthaya era (1351-1767), this temple, lovingly crafted from tree trunks, has been restored to its former glory under the guidance of revered monk Luang Por Ruesi Ling Dam. Visitors discover treasures like the Crystal Sanctuary and the Golden Castle, serving as testaments to Thailand’s rich cultural heritage and religious legacy.

The magnificent Wat Tha Sung stands tall close to downtown Uthai Thani A stall selling local delicacies

As the sun sets over Uthai city, ascend Sakae Krang Mountain and grab a box seat for nature’s jaw-dropping daily finale. As the blazing sky fades to charcoal, visitors can pay homage to the Lord Buddha’s footprint for the perfect end to their day’s exploration.

When hunger strikes, foodies make a beeline for Trok Rongya Alley, a buzzing temple to the delights of Thai street food culture. This narrow passageway once served as an enclave for Chinese residents and was home to opium dens. After the prohibition of opium in 1957, the alley fell into disrepair. Now, however, it has been resurrected as a vibrant pedestrian street in the heart of the city. Echoes of its storied past linger in the refurbished old wooden

shophouses, now transformed into shops, restaurants, cafés, and souvenir stores. A standout among them is Jay Da Pla Luak, which offers traditional local delicacies like boiled or fried fish with spicy dip.

For nature lovers, the Huai Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary is just 100 kilometres from downtown Uthai Thani. Southeast Asia’s largest rainforest complex, the sanctuary gained UNESCO World Heritage Site status a year after famed conservationist Seub Nakhasathien took his life in 1990 to shed light on Thailand’s deforestation crisis. Immortalised as a national hero and a symbol of wildlife conservation, his legacy endures in the untouched natural surroundings of Huai Kha Khaeng.

21

OVERTURES THAILAND TREASURES

Visitors can follow in Seub’s courageous footsteps by roughing it overnight in a tent at a sanctuary campsite, or opt to stay in a ranger cabin.

With a labyrinth of trails to explore, outdoor enthusiasts can relish the crisp, pristine air as they traverse the forest, encountering animal tracks and a diverse mosaic of plant life. Lucky visitors may even stumble across tiger tracks, a thrilling reminder of the raw wilderness that engulfs them. The Pong Chang Puak nature trail is traversed by barking deer, wild boar, elephants, bantengs, and peacocks. Visitors can observe these creatures in their natural habitat from the observation tower at Thap Salao Creek.

Uthai Thani’s unique cultural landscape is shaped by diverse ethnic groups like the Lao Khrang, Lao Wiang, and Pathan. Located just 40 kilometres south of downtown, Ban Rai district

22

Clockwise from Right A wax figure of renowned Thai conservationist Seub Nakhasathien A pair of colourful Greater Flameback perched on a pine tree at Huai Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary Traditional desserts like grilled sticky rice wrapped in banana leaf can be found at local markets Deep-fried fish served with spicy sauce is among the many treats that can be easily found in Uthai Thani The Seub Nakhasathien monument at Huai Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary

beckons with its renowned handwoven Lao Krang fabric with exquisitely elegant “Sroi Sa” in vibrant hues from natural dyes. Visit Ban Rai on a Saturday and you can experience the Sao Hai Market, a haven for shoppers seeking organic produce and artisanal crafts. Carefully curated, this market offers a delightful variety of locally sourced goods at affordable prices, ensuring a rewarding shopping experience for visitors.

Whether gliding along the river at dawn, exploring ancient temples, or embarking on a wildlife adventure in the rainforest, Uthai Thani promises both unforgettable memories and a deeper understanding of Thailand’s rich cultural tapestry.

OVERTURES A TASTE OF THAILAND

24

Infusion Power Curry paste and seafood collide with herbal delights to create one of Thailand’s true delicacies – Hor Mok

WORDS SARITA URUPONGSA

Thais never run out of ideas for devising delicious recipes from fruits of the land and sea, but when subtle herbs are added, you get a true delicacy like Hor Mok. Hor Mok, or curried fish wrapped in banana leaf, was traditionally baked in the hot ashes of a coal stove while another dish was cooking on the stovetop.

The old ‘Mok’ method changed with the arrival of Chinese steaming baskets, but the name stuck.

Hor Mok usually comprises steamed fish marinated in curry paste. It can be found all over Thailand, though the flavour varies according to local ingredients and tastes.

However, its souffle-like texture and signature flavour infused with aromatic curry paste remains the same.

Made from coriander root, galangal, kaffir lime, fingerroot and garlic, the curry paste is believed to be a good cure for gastrointestinal complaints.

For a perfect Hor Mok, the vital ingredient is fish, of course, though choices vary from striped snakehead and clown featherback to iridescent shark catfish. Some recipes even call for crab or other meats.

The cooking method is equally unfussy. The first step is to pound frozen fish into a fine paste and mix it with the curry paste. The mixture is kneaded and coconut milk is added until the right texture is achieved, with fish sauce and palm sugar added according to taste. Once the paste is ready, the mixture is placed in a banana leaf basket layered with assorted leafy herbs and vegetables like Thai basil and Noni leaves. Give your Hor Mok a creative topping with coconut cream, strips of kaffir lime leaves or sliced capsicum before steaming it for 15 to 20 minutes. Serve with hot steamed rice.

25

OVERTURES FRUITFUL FINDS

Thailand’s Forgotten Citrus Gem

WORDS ARIYA CHAIYARIT

The most common and widely available Thai orange is the sweet fruit known as Som Khiew Waan. However, it has a subtle – and some say more delicious – cousin that appears far less often in shops and markets.

Foodies describe Som Cheng’s flavour as a blend of orange and pomelo and prize its succulent flesh hidden inside a thick green-yellow rind. Not too sweet and not too sour, with a soft citrusy aroma, Som Cheng closely resembles a tangerine. But the fruit fell from favour because it cannot be peeled with the fingers, instead requiring a knife to cut and separate the segments.

These days, Som Cheng is still popular at Chinese festivals and weddings as the name sounds like the Chinese words for luck and wealth.

Apart from being considered auspicious, Som Cheng is full of health boosters. The tangerine-like fruit comes packed with anti-inflammatory vitamins C and A, alpha and beta-carotene, vitamins B1/B5/B6/ B9, folate, calcium, potassium, magnesium, protein, fibre, and antioxidants. Eating Som Cheng is believed to promote heart and eye health, reduce the risk of certain types of cancer and diabetes, prevent anaemia and support immunity.

Som Cheng is usually consumed fresh, though it’s best to remove the white pith around the flesh as this can be slightly bitter. This small orange can also be found in desserts, drinks, jelly, juice or even just steeped in syrup.

Som Cheng can be difficult to find in fresh markets. Instead, hunt for them at big fruit stalls and supermarkets and you could be rewarded with a rare taste of Thai citrus heaven.

PHOTO & STYLE RINRIN INTRAVIJIT

The elusive Som Cheng hides health-boosting benefits beneath a thick rind

26

OVERTURES ARTS & CULTURAL MATTERS

Where the Ghosts Come Out to Play Spooky meets spectacular when the Phi Ta Khon festival haunts the streets of Dan Sai Words Sarita Urupongsa

The word “ghost” usually triggers fear Right Phi Ta Khon performers wield swords made of wood Bottom Left Colourful masks light up every Phi Ta Khon parade Opposite Poster for the 2024 Phi Ta Khon Festival Phi Ta Khon decorative masks often feature traditional Thai patterns

and a sense of dread. But in the district of Dan Sai in Loei province, ghosts are surprisingly associated with colourful festivities and unlimited fun.

Since ancient times, local people have believed in the story of Phi Ta Khon, which means the “ghost that follows people”. The legend derives from the story of the Buddha’s past life as Vessantara, who was accompanied by protective spirits when he decided to leave the forest. This ancient folklore is brought to life by the Thai art of Khon

(masked dance) to create the annual Phi

Phawet Day where villagers march with

Ta Khon Festival, blending local beliefs,

a statue of Lord Buddha to the bank

merriment, and auspicious rites into one

of the Mun River. Having asked for the

exuberant celebration.

water spirit’s protection, they retrieve

Festivalgoers wear long masks and

28

the statue from the river before parading

costumes richly decorated with either

with it to Phon Chai Temple where the

frightening or creative designs. Phi Ta Khon

ceremony ends with lively music and the

usually takes place in July as part of Bun

joyous Phi Ta Khon dance.

Luang, a Buddhist festival of merit-making for

The second day is marked by the

spirits believed to protect the community.

parade of Vessantara, also known as the

This festival consists of three

Phi Ta Khon parade. Revellers wearing

auspicious events, beginning with Boon

colourful ghost masks chant and dance

their way along the streets in a ritual

Phi Ta Khon are more common and

to invite good crop-growing weather.

open to everyone.

The parade winds from Dan Sai District

The fun also lies in making the

Office to Phon Chai Temple. Visitors can

Phi Ta Khon masks. They are handcrafted

expect a huge crowd as Phi Ta Khon

from locally sourced materials, starting

troupes from districts far and wide

with coconut husks soaked overnight

gather to show off their costumes and

and then tied to a curved container to

dance moves.

mould the face mask. After drying in the

The final day, Bunsamha, is taken up by prayers for forgiveness and good fortune. Sweet alms are also given to monks to ward off bad luck and bring prosperity to the town. The day ends with festivalgoers paying homage to the temple’s sacred Buddha statue and listening to the ancient Mahachati sermon.

However, the star of the festival is Phi Ta Khon, which comes in two sizes: big and small. The former consists of giant male and female effigies standing 3 metres tall. Only one family is permitted to craft the large Phi Ta Khon, using skills that have been passed down from generation to generation. The small

29

OVERTURES ARTS & CULTURAL MATTERS

sun, the masks are trimmed and shaped.

The top decoration is traditionally made from a woven sticky-rice steamer, symbolising the people’s gratitude for rice.

These raw materials can be improvised, but one essential item is the bell or “galaeng” to alert the crowd that the Phi Ta Khon troupe is on its way.

Today, around 50 groups showcase distinct Phi Ta Khon styles, reflecting each community’s unique culture. The festival not only symbolises a long-cherished cultural heritage but also strengthens the bonds within local communities. It celebrates Dan Sai’s historic roots and cultivates this sense of belonging for future generations.

Art and culture lovers can explore deeper by visiting the collection of Phi Ta Khon masks at the Phon Chai Temple museum.

This year’s Phi Ta Khon Festival will take place in Dan Sai, Loei province from July 7-9.

30

Phi Ta Khon performers compete with each other to produce the most spectacular costumes

OVERTURES CHECKED IN: SAMUI

WORDS KANKANIT WICHIANTANON PHOTOS ANUTRA UNGSUPRASERT

TASTED: PHENSIRI

Clockwise from Above Stir-fried melinjo leaves with egg (Bai Liang Phad Khai) is a Southern specialty Gaeng Som Pla – the much-adored vibrant, sour, and spicy curry soup Dining al fresco under the shade of lush trees at Phensiri Goong Dok Hed, a savoury crunchy mouthful that elevates the meal Mango Sticky Rice (Khao Niew Mamuang) - always a crowd pleaser Artistic plating

by Chef Santi “Aor” Wongsawat

32

Hankering for a scrumptious feast made from the freshest sustainably sourced ingredients on Koh Samui? Head to Phensiri, an island legend that specialises in Southern Thai food.

Under the leadership of sustainabilityfocused chef and owner Santi “Aor” Wongsawat, Phensiri is committed to promoting zero waste through its nose-totail culinary excellence.

“Zero-waste cooking has been ingrained in Thai culinary heritage for generations. While some may have discarded this knowledge, many still practise it but without even knowing. This practice can be easily incorporated at home, and it’s something we should all pay attention

to in order to minimise waste,” Chef Aor explains. “Thai cuisine uses many ingredients, resulting in dishes rich in different flavours and textures. Also, each dish often utilises diverse parts of a single ingredient. This means that one ingredient can be repurposed across several dishes within a single meal, which helps reduce waste effectively.”

One prime example is lemongrass.

The unused parts of this herb can add an extra zing to curry paste. Another example is how the banana tree is used in Thai cuisine. Everything from blossoms and leaves to fruit and stems can be transformed into delicious dishes.

Any kitchen scraps at Phensiri go to local farms for animal feed while table scraps are returned to the fields as organic fertiliser.

The menu of well-known Southern classics and prized local delights is crafted using only seasonal and hyper-local ingredients, along with locally made seasonings like Kapi (shrimp paste) and fish sauce. The seafood is sourced exclusively from small-scale fisheries on the island.

We have a few wonderful classics to recommend from our visit to the restaurant. Bai Liang Phad Khai (melinjo leaves stir-fried with egg) is a Southern classic cooked in the traditional method with rich coconut milk and shrimp paste but not a drop of oil. For us, this

gave the dish a new, unfamiliar but delectable twist.

Also not to be missed are Pla Muek Phad Kati (stir-fried squid in coconut milk) and Gaeng Som Pla (Southern sour and spicy fish soup). These two dishes embody the flavours of Samui, infusing the local culinary wisdom in every bite.

Phensiri Restaurant 80/30 Moo 3, Suanuthit Road, Chaweng Beach, Bo Phut, Koh Samui, Surat Thani Tel: +66 (0) 81 753 6767 www.phensiri.com

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LAND & HOUSE DETAILS

An established 3-bedroom private pool villa, located within the exclusive private residen�al development of Samran Gardens, developed in 2003 by the reputable Bri�sh property developer Stuart Evans, resident on Koh Samui since 1999.

• Large landscaped, walled gardens

Mobile/WhatsApp: +66 95 498 9992

• Full property & rental management provided • Freehold �tle acquisi�on available • House size: 275 sq.m • Pool size: 9 m x 4.5 m

Price: 17,500,000 THB (US$ 475,000) Contact: Stuart Evans

• Excellent holiday rental return (8%)

• Land size: 1,141 sq.m (0.28 acre)

E-mail: info@samrangardens.com

Website: www.samrangardens.com

LUXURY VILLAS FOR SALE 50% Sold & Occupied!

MAENAM

K OH S A M U I

• • • • • • • •

2 MORE VILLAS UNDER CONSTRUCTION! AVAILABLE FOR OCCUPATION NOV 2024 2–3 bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms Full western fi�ed kitchens incl. appliances Private swimming pools Full property management provided Bespoke rental service Prices from 14,950,000 THB (US$ 409,000)

www.the-rice.com / +66 95 498 9992

OVERTURES CHECKED IN: SAMUI WORDS KANKANIT WICHIANTANON

PHOTOS ANUTRA UNGSUPRASERT

TASTED: EXPLORAR KOH SAMUI

Top Left A plateful of barbecued delights served up as part of Explorar Koh Samui’s signature ‘Blue Smoke – Taste of Spain’ offered every Thursday night

Our seaside feast opened with “sustainable” cocktails crafted by Joey Lai, the hotel’s chief mixologist, as part of his “Go Green” drinks menu. We opted for Smokey Cacao, a medley of mezcal, prosecco and orange bitters served in a cacao shell; Cocco Bello, a playful blend of coconut infused Campari, plantation dark rum and Cinzano Rosso, served in a coconut and topped with coconut foam; and Mauve Margarita, a delicate ballet of butterfly pea brine, tequila, yuzu, agave and lime.

Dinner began with a Cold Cuts & Cheese platter alongside a rainbow-hued Greek Salad and Modern Salad. Next came Chef Raphael’s Spanish Pinchitos Platter, spread with Beef Kebabs, Butifarras, Chorizo, and juicy, salted-to-perfection Pollo à la Barbacoa.

One of only 350 Maître Cuisiniers de France, Chef Raphael’s culinary pedigree shone through in every mouthful we ate.

Just when we thought we were done, he served up his mind-blowingly good Gambas Al Ajillo and BBQ Corn under a blanket of cheese. The night ended with a devilishly delicious dessert of Apple Tarte paired with house-made limoncello.

With beaming faces and bursting bellies, we turned to each other and gave thanks for a heavenly Southern island flavour adventure.

Centre from Left to Right Chef Raphael Kinimo’s delicious Gambas Al Ajillo or grilled prawns

Explorar Koh Samui 44, 134, Tambon Mae Nam, Amphoe Koh Samui, Surat Thani Tel: +66 (0) 77 953 035 www.explorarhotels.com/koh-samui

Explorar Koh Samui offers the perfect getaway with gorgeous rooms and atmosphere, but for foodies, it’s simply a paradise. This adults-only resort on Mae Nam Beach deserves a place on your bucket list not just for its chic and relaxing surroundings but also the umami-packed menus.

After a busy day soaking in the sun and sea, we stepped out of our serene Beach Pool Villa for a culinary adventure at the Odyssey – the hotel’s beachfront restaurant.

Here, a Santa Maria-style grill sizzled and smoked with a sumptuous selection of seafood, sausages and meats, all prepared by Explorar’s culinary director, Chef Raphael Kinimo, and his team for their signature “Blue Smoke – Taste of Spain” Thursday night.

The juicy, salted-toperfection Pollo à la Barbacoa Cosying up with our sustainable cocktails against the setting sun Bottom from Left to Right A stunning seascape accompanies an equally stunning dinner Bottom Right Apple Tarte brings the evening to a sweet end

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OVERTURES CHECKED IN: SAMUI

WORDS ANUTRA UNGSUPRASERT PHOTOS SAMUI RESOTEL BEACH RESORT

Top from Left to Right The spacious ocean pool villa The ocean pool villa’s private pool facing the seafront

STAYED: SAMUI RESOTEL BEACH RESORT

Tucked away on picture-perfect Chaweng Beach, Samui Resotel is a sanctuary of bliss where luxury mingles with serenity.

The pool villas’ seamless blend of modern design and traditional Thai creates an inviting retreat, offering a spacious living area adorned with plush furnishings and large windows with captivating views of the ocean. Outside, the private terrace beckons with a gleaming infinity pool and the promise of deep relaxation kissed by a gentle sea breeze.

The resort has various accommodation options, each with its own allure. The ocean pool villa boasts panoramic vistas while the garden suite nestles amid verdant foliage, both offering a luxurious escape.

Elsewhere, the resort packs the perfect facilities for leisure and

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rejuvenation. The outdoor pool sparkles invitingly, while the fully equipped gym has all you need and more for invigorating workouts. Dialling down the pace, the quiet garden and cosy library offer respite and corners for contemplation and calm.

Dining at Samui Resotel is also a five-star experience, with Capriccio’s eclectic menu showcasing a fusion of international and Thai flavours.

Meanwhile, at the Bubble Bar, guests can indulge in refreshing drinks and delectable bites while soaking in the ocean views. For the height of chic, have your appetisers, cocktails or after-dinner drinks served at Absolute X Resotel on the terrace of the Bubble Bar. Evenings at the resort are enchanting, as the sky flares with vibrant hues and guests gather to enjoy sumptuous meals prepared by skilled chefs.

Beyond the confines of the villa, a world of adventures unfolds for guests to explore. From sunbathing to exhilarating water sports, there’s something for everyone.

As night falls, Chaweng Beach cranks up the energy, offering a host of entertainment options. From lively beachfront clubs to chic rooftop bars, the vibrant nightlife scene buzzes with fun and sophistication.

Samui Resotel is more than just a great place to stay. This sanctuary of Thai hospitality infuses every moment with tranquillity and discovery, leaving an indelible imprint on the soul.

Samui Resotel Beach Resort 17 Moo 3, Chaweng Beach, Bo Phut, Koh Samui, Surat Thani Tel: +66 (0) 77 422 374 www.samuiresotel.com

Clockwise from Below Left Enjoy appetisers and beverages at the Bubble Bar terrace A view from the top of a private ocean pool villa A luxurious bathroom with a walk-in closet Bubble Bar and Absolute X Resotel above the Bubble Bar terrace offers delicacies with a panoramic seascape

OVERTURES CHECKED IN: SAMUI

Top from Left to Right The two showstoppers: Lobster Pasta and Soft-Shell Crab Pasta go well with fresh watermelon juice Velvety and pungent Wagyu Curry for beef and curry lovers The dining area of Chom Chada Cocktail Bar & Bistro stylishly blends traditional Thai elegance with art deco details Bottom from Left to Right Rack of Lamb with a deliciously luscious gravy The cocktail station where delicious magic happens Hibiscus and Jasmine: two of their must-try cocktails

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TASTED: CHOM CHADA COCKTAIL BAR & BISTRO

Nestled amid the nightlife venues on Chaweng’s bustling walking street lies a new jewel, Chom Chada Cocktail Bar & Bistro. Fast becoming the number one hangout among local foodies, Chom Chada serves up startlingly good Thai, Western and fusion dishes with tipples to match the sophisticated surroundings.

Curated by Sureewan Ratchadarak, the mastermind behind the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand-awarded Kapi Sator, her latest venture serves up the same exceptional quality plus an even broader range of dishes to delight every palate.

The menu is a convivial concoction of Southern Thai classics, Western favourites, and palate-wowing ThaiWestern fusion dishes, all topped off with creative cocktails for the ultimate dining experience. Also setting this restaurant apart is a relaxed ambiance that blends Thai traditional elegance with art deco details.

WORDS KANKANIT WICHIANTANON

PHOTOS ANUTRA UNGSUPRASERT

Our grand dining experience kicked off with the restaurant’s signature Burrata Salad, the freshness of a greenred-orange tomato medley perfectly balancing the cool and creamy burrata.

Next came the Thai Wagyu Salad, a velvety-pungent Wagyu Curry, and the two showstoppers: Soft-Shell Crab Pasta and Lobster Pasta. Imagine the beloved Southern staple Crab and Betel Leaf Curry (Gaeng Poo Bai Chaplu), which is typically served with rice, now coating thick pasta noodles with its spicy creaminess. It was simply divine, especially when paired with the perfectly fried soft-shell crab. The Lobster Pasta tantalised the eyes, then the tastebuds: a whole crustacean nestled beneath a blanket of tomato sauce-clothed spaghetti dotted with chunky lobster morsels.

Just when we thought the banquet had come to an end, the Rack of Lamb with luscious dark gravy, and the Salmon Choo Chee (a fusion twist on traditional Thai Choo Chee fish curry) graced our table to guarantee complete savoury satisfaction.

Lip-smacking cocktails ensured the mood grew lighter with each sip.

The standout on the excellent dessert menu was Banana Fritters drizzled with honey and served with a scoop of ice cream, with batter so light and airy it was gobbled up in seconds.

Chom Chada Cocktail Bar & Bistro 167/64 Chaweng Beach Road, Bo Phut, Koh Samui, Surat Thani +66 (0) 61 232 3889 www.instagram.com/ chomchadacocktailbar.bistro Facebook: Chom Chada Cocktail Bar & Bistro

OVERTURES CHECKED IN: PHNOM PENH WORDS KANKANIT WICHIANTANON

PHOTOS COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT PHNOM PENH

Top from Left to Right Enjoy a comfy coffee break in chic surroundings at Courtyard by Marriott Phnom Penh Drinks and delights at The Lounge Centre Located in the heart of the capital, Courtyard by Marriott Phnom Penh offers unparalleled comfort and convenience Bottom from Left to Right Afternoon tea to sweeten your Courtyard experience

STAYED: COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT PHNOM PENH

Perched where the Mekong, Tonlé Sap and Bassac rivers meet, Phnom Penh is also a confluence of age-old charm and contemporary sophistication. Ancient temples and grand historical sites cuddle up to gleaming skyscrapers, creating a striking and eclectic skyline.

Cambodia’s capital is awash with history – from the Khmer Empire (8021431) and French colonialism (18631953) to the tragic Khmer Rouge period (1975-1979) – but has evolved into a vibrant, modern city with deep roots. As we discovered on a recent visit, Courtyard

by Marriott Phnom Penh offers the perfect introduction, blending contemporary comfort seamlessly with a design and menus that highlight the city’s unique culture. Located in the heart of the capital, Courtyard offers unparalleled luxury and convenience. Our room, the Executive

A relaxing retreat after a busy day exploring the city

Lounge Access Guest Room, provided a super-relaxing retreat after a busy day exploring the city. A more breathtaking view could not be imagined, with the golden-lit Royal Palace looming against the urban skyline and the Tonlé Sap River in the background.

As every Marriott Bonvoy member knows well, the Marriot experience matches supreme comfort with its culinary excellence, and the Courtyard by Marriott Phnom Penh upholds this high standard. Its Mekong restaurant serves everything from authentic Fish Amok and Nom Banh Chok to Black Angus Beef Steak from sunrise to sundown. The daily breakfast spread at the restaurant is simply sumptuous.

But if you’re looking for an afternoon pick-me-up, head to The Lounge on the first floor or The Deck on the 20th floor to enjoy creative cocktails, delicious bar bites and a stunning cityscape vista.

Courtyard by Marriott Phnom Penh makes the perfect choice for tourists as well as business travellers, with a central location that puts everything within easy reach.

Courtyard by Marriott Phnom Penh No. 115 Street 214 At Corner Street 63, Cambodia www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/pnhcycourtyard-phnom-penh/overview

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CULTURE QUEST

Words Pinanong Panchuen, Khetsirin Pholthampalit

A NIGHT OWL’S GUIDE w

Photos Rinrin Intravijit, Pinanong Panchuen, Navarat Nunimitr, Rajadej Na=Nagara & Shutterstock

Old Bangkok Join us on a delicious trek around Rattanakosin Island when night falls

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f New York is the city that never sleeps, then Bangkok flows with a thousand waking dreams from dusk till dawn. As darkness descends on the Chao Phraya River, three centuries of culture light up the historic Rattanakosin Island and Thonburi quarters on either side. Nightbirds can hop aboard a tuk-tuk to the Temple of Dawn, Wat Arun, take a ferry across to old Tha Tien, stroll through the fragrant Flower Market of Pak Khlong Talat, sample the sizzling street food at Pratu Phi and end the night with a satisfying bowl of khao tom (rice porridge) and side dishes at the legendary after-dark eateries around Wat Bowonniwet.

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CULTURE QUEST THE LAST LIGHT AT WAT ARUN Your first stop should be Bangkok’s most iconic landmark, the corncobshaped Phra Prang stupa of Wat Arun. This splendid spire gleams with pearly majesty at dawn but only shows its golden side at sundown. The temple is open daily from 8am to 6pm, offering visitors a precious chance to witness the dying sun’s rays glowing from the stupa bejewelled with Chinese porcelain.

To add a historical twist to your night out, stop by one of the nearby costume rental shops for an Ayutthaya makeover.

Don traditional attire and step back in time, feeling like royalty as you explore Wat Arun and other Instagram-worthy spots in Bangkok’s old quarters. The popular makeovers start from 150 baht (US$4) including hair and makeup. Professional lensmen are also on hand for visitors who desire postcard-perfect souvenirs.

Clockwise from Top Tourists dressed in traditional Thai attire pose for pictures at Wat Arun Phya Yak or mythical giants guarding Wat Arun’s entrance offer a great photo op for tourists Thai costume rental shops can be found near Wat Arun Stepping back to the good old days, dressed in traditional Thai attire

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STROLLING AROUND OLD THA TIEN From Wat Arun, climb aboard the 5-baht ferry and embark on a romantic sunset crossing to Tha Tien on the opposite bank. Don’t forget to turn around for more spectacular views of Wat Arun’s spire.

Tha Tien was once Bangkok’s main trading area for rice and sugar but has now transformed into a hip neighbourhood specialising in culinary discoveries.

We recommend starting with the streetside eatery Medium Rare Tha Tien, an eye-catching tuk-tukturned-mobile kitchen that serves mouthwatering Isaan-style grilled meats. Prices are modest and the

Clockwise from Top Left The stunning sunset, food and drinks at the Deck by Arun Residence Medium Rare Tha Tien serves Isaan-style steak at reasonable prices Soi Tha Suphan, packed with great cafés and restaurants, offers one of the best views of Wat Arun Nusara, which won third place in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants last year Bottom Right & Left Classic Vietnamese dishes at the Tonkin-Annam restaurant Nothing beats exploring old Bangkok in a tuk-tuk

succulent snacks are authentically northeastern. Relocated from its former streetside spot, the tuk-tuk is now part of the shophouse eatery, yet the long queues of customers remain unchanged.

A short walk further down Soi Tha Suphan is Nusara, where Chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn oversees a rising star in Bangkok’s culinary landscape. Nusara placed third in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023. The decor of red, green and yellow evokes the joyful character of Chef Ton’s grandmother, whose cooking talent and recipes inspired his culinary journey.

Keep strolling towards Pak Khlong Talat Flower Market to discover more of Soi Tha Suphan’s famous foodie hangouts. Let’s start at Zunely’s House, a vintage shophouse café with elegant arched counter that serves an array of refreshing drinks and energyboosting fruit juices. Nearby is A Fox Princess Kitchen, whose inviting shopfront glass cabinet showcases toothsome desserts.

Then comes Saeng Tha Tien, one of Bangkok’s most sought-after restaurants for foodies, where reservations must be made several months in advance.

Formally an ice factory, this small restaurant is decorated simply with vintage wooden furniture and serves traditional Thai cuisine made with seasonal ingredients.

Next door is the famed Vietnamese restaurant Tonkin-Annam, which also requires reservation. As hinted in the name, this homely restaurant serves specialities from the regions of Tonkin and Annam, once home to the owner’s grandmother and grandfather respectively.

Next, swing right into Soi Pratu Nokyung and marvel at the breathtaking nighttime illumination of Wat Arun from the newly refurbished Wat Pho Pier. For dinner with panoramic views over the river, take a seat next door at The Deck by Arun Residence.

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CULTURE QUEST 24-HOUR FLOWER MARKET Less than 1 kilometre from Tha Tien Pier is Pak Khlong Talat, Bangkok’s celebrated 24-hour flower market. Colourful stalls line both sides of the road with fresh imported and local flowers including roses, carnations, lilies, hydrangeas, orchids and traditional Thai jasmine garlands. Prices range from 10 baht for single blooms to hundreds of baht for weddingstyle bouquets. Customised flower arrangements often come for free, with customers paying only for the flowers, paper and ribbons at very reasonable prices.

When your flower power begins to fade, recharge your batteries in Floral Café at Napasorn’s indoor paradise. Phuwanat Chumsrikarin has turned the second floor of this two-decade-old florist into a garden café with changing seasonal décor. Seeking something sweet?

Try the Farm to Table Organic Café for Thai desserts served with homemade ice cream, including the scrumptious Kao Tok Tang – puffed rice served with coconutbutterfly pea gelato.

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Top Pak Khlong Talat beckons with its flower power round the clock

Below Left A peek into the wholesale flower market

Below Right The tiny Farm to Table Organic Café hidden behind all the blooms

Bottom Right Floral Café by Napasorn sits among all the florists

CULTURE QUEST

A FEAST OF FLAVOURS IN PRATU PHI Continue your taste trek with a 10-minute taxi or tuk-tuk ride to Pratu Phi, where two legends of Bangkok’s culinary scene await.

Jay Fai is run by celebrity chef Supinya “Jay Fai” Junsuta, famed for being the first Thai street food vendor to receive a Michelin star, while Thipsamai is probably the best-known Pad Thai shop in Bangkok (though locals know it as Pad Thai Pratu Phi).

Next door is NamTaoHuu Pu Pla, a café serving fresh traditional Thai drinks of hot/cold soy milk, hot ginger, and longan syrup with a choice of toppings running from grass jelly, lotus root and ginkgo to barley and many more.

Noodle lovers should follow

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their nose to Tee Yen Ta Fo, where the soups burst with aroma and flavour.

Nearby, an abandoned drugstore has been injected with new life as the craft beer saloon, Tai Soon Bar, the pills replaced with an impressive range of local and imported amber tonics.

A little further up the street is the Chinese-style TaoTao café, where steamed milk comes with a variety of toppings including gingko, red bean, grass jelly, and brown sugar konjac jelly. Also on the menu are milk pudding, roasted milk tea, and fresh cream cheese fruit tea, served in an ambiance infused with old Hong Kong movies.

Clockwise from Top Left Famous Jay Fai and her top cooking skills Tai Soon Bar in Pratu Phi area NamTaoHuu Pu Pla café opposite Wat Ratchanaddaram Tee Yen Ta Fo selling pink noodles Tao Tao café serves Chinese-style steamed milk Thipsamai, a legendary Pad Thai shop

Top to Bottom from Left Variety of food choices at Khao Tom Wat Bowon Peng Peng’s stir-fried clams in chilli paste Bangkok’s iconic Democracy Monument stands tall on Rajadamnoen Road Sky High restaurant is famous for hotand-sour chicken feet soup Top to Bottom from Right Juicy steamed minced pork with salted eggs served at Khao Tom Wat Bowon Delicious Tom Yum Goong at Peng Peng

LATE-NIGHT STREET BANQUETS Thailand has developed the perfect cure for tired legs and hangovers. A hot-and-sour soup or hot bowl of rice porridge served with delectable side dishes works like magic to restore flagging energy levels.

From Pratu Phi, grab a tuk-tuk or taxi to the Democracy Monument area five minutes away and treat yourself to the air-conditioned Sky High restaurant and its famous hotand-sour chicken feet soup.

For some of the best rice porridge (khao tom), the neighbouring Bang Lamphu district offers two late-night legends.

Opposite Wat Bowonniwet is Khao Tom Wat Bowon whose authentic Teochew-style Chinese dishes

paired with rice porridge have been wowing customers for over six decades. The menu brims with over 100 choices but popular favourites include stir-fried morning glory, vegetable soup, stewed duck in golden brown soup, and stir-fried jute leaves.

Nearby Peng Peng also offers hundreds of choices but don’t miss the fried river prawns with garlic, fried mackerel with fish sauce, and hot-and-sour tom yum goong.

Exploring Bangkok’s old quarters at night reveals a thousand culinary discoveries hidden in the maze of characterful alleys. Just make sure you’re hungry before setting out on the expedition.

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ROOTS & RITUALS

Delve into

Thai Rice The nation’s favourite grain is also a gateway to its age-old traditions and seasonal rhythm

Culture Words Ron Emmons

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Photos Ron Emmons & Shutterstock

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ROOTS & RITUALS

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hroughout Southeast Asia, rice (Oryza sativa) is the staple food; yet it is more than just food – it has shaped the history, culture and economy of the entire region, and Thailand is no exception. A common Thai greeting is “Have you eaten rice yet?”, to which a positive answer is proof of wellbeing. And while many of us eat rice regularly, few of us know what happens to it before it appears on our plate. So, let’s take a closer look at the steps in rice production and the rhythms of the rice-growing season.

The start of the rice-growing year in Thailand is marked by the Royal Ploughing Ceremony, a Brahmin ritual that dates back to the Sukhothai era (1257-1350) and takes place at an astrologically auspicious time, usually in May. Ceremonial bulls plough a small part of Sanam Luang on Rattanakosin Island in Bangkok, after which the Lord of the Harvest scatters seeds that have been blessed by the king and predicts the abundance of the coming season’s harvest from foods the bulls select from seven troughs proffered to them. At the end of the ceremony, barriers are removed and farmers rush to grab handfuls of the scattered grain in the belief that it will guarantee them a bumper crop.

The practice faded out in the early 20th century but was revived by King Bhumibol in 1960, since when it has taken place each year.

When the first rains of the monsoon season appear (May or June), farmers plough their paddies, traditionally with the aid of water buffalo, in preparation for the new crop. Seeds are planted in seedbeds, and when they are about six inches high, they are transplanted into the flooded paddies. This back-breaking work is shared by the whole community, and despite having to stand for hours with “backs to the sky, faces to the earth”, as the Thai saying goes, groups of rice planters are generally in high spirits, exchanging jokes and singing songs as they slosh through ankle-deep mud and cover each paddy with an emerald-green blanket. Simple shelters dot the landscape where

the farmers eat their packed lunch and snooze in the shade during the hottest time of day.

This is one of the most exciting times to be travelling around the Thai countryside, and any visitor stopping to take a photo of rice planters is likely to be invited to pitch in and lend a hand. If you don’t get an invite but would like to know what it feels like to be a rice planter, contact Sukhothai Travel Service (sukhothai_travel@ hotmail.com) to arrange a visit to the Organic Agriculture Project Sukhothai Airport, a facility operated by Bangkok Airways.

Here you’ll watch various rice planting activities before kicking off your shoes and squelching into the muddy paddy to plant rice.

When the first rains of the monsoon season appear (May or June), farmers plough their paddies, traditionally with the aid of water buffalo, in preparation for the new crop.

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Clockwise from Bottom Left Rice field near Chiang Mai in North Thailand Rice terraces at Ban Pa Pong, Doi Inthanon Rice fields at Ban Pa Pong, Doi Inthanon Painting of a riceplanting scene Rice planters are often in high spirits Rice shoots ready for transplanting

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ROOTS & RITUALS

Although water reduces the number of weeds, the rice fields need constant attention to keep birds, rodents and insects at bay from when the rice shoots are transplanted until the harvest in November or December. When the paddies turn gold and the heads of the rice stalks droop beneath the weight of grain, the crop is harvested, using a simple, crescentshaped knife to scythe through the stalks. Finally, the rice is threshed to remove the chaff, a process that is still done by hand in most parts of Thailand, before it is bagged up and stored in the rice barn.

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Clockwise from Left The Royal Ploughing Ceremony in Bangkok A statue of Mae Phosop holding a sheaf of rice stalks People attending the ceremony run to collect rice grains to plant in their paddy fields during the Royal Ploughing Ceremony

Rice farmers then show thanks to the Mae Phosop goddess when the grain begins to form, or the plant becomes ‘pregnant’, as Thais see it.

As if all this exhausting work wasn’t enough, Thai farmers seek to guarantee a successful harvest by venerating Mae Phosop, the goddess of rice, and they do this through several rituals and ceremonies during the growing season. The goddess is usually represented by a small statue of a beautiful woman clutching a sheaf of rice stalks. At sowing time, the farmers build a shrine and make offerings to her, then mix new rice seeds with some of the previous year’s crop to render them sacred.

Rice farmers then show thanks to the goddess when the grain begins to form, or the plant becomes

“pregnant”, as Thais see it, which usually happens in September or October. At this time the women of the village take sour fruits (traditionally in Thailand pregnant women crave lime and tamarind), along with perfume, combs and mirrors to the rice paddies to present to Mae Phosop. They also erect taleo – small protective mandalas made of bamboo strips – beside the fields. Taleo means “hawk’s eye”, and they are thought to scare off potential rice raiders.

Once harvesting is complete, an offering of a small part of the new crop is given to domestic animals, and the last ritual of the ricegrowing season invites Mae Phosop to take up residence in the rice barn and protect the crop from disease or theft by animals such as rats.

ROOTS & RITUALS

10 FUN RICE FACTS Rice provides daily sustenance for over half the world’s population. Rice contains many of the minerals and vitamins that our bodies need, such as magnesium and Vitamin B-1. Rice has been cultivated for around 10,000 years. Along with sugarcane and corn, rice is one of the top three crops grown globally. India is currently the world’s biggest exporter of rice, with Thailand second and Vietnam third. There are over 40,000 varieties of rice (some sources say over 100,000). Jasmine rice (khao hom mali) is the most popular variety in Thailand. Sticky rice (khao niao) is especially popular in North and Northeast Thailand.  It provides over a fifth of the calories consumed worldwide. It is low in fat and cholesterol, but high in fibre, which promotes a healthy digestive system.

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Traditionally, women perform this ritual since it is thought that if a man were to be left alone in a rice barn with the beautiful Mae Phosop, he would not be able to control his lust for her.

After the harvest is safely stored away, usually around December, rice farmers can rest from their exertions for several months during the dry, cool season before it’s time to prepare the fields for next year’s crop. This is the time to enjoy the fruits of their labours, and to consume rice in its many forms. People from North and Northeast Thailand have a preference for sticky rice over steamed rice, and eat it rolled into small balls and dipped into spicy sauces.

Sticky rice is a lot more complex to prepare than steamed rice,

Right ‘Taleo’ at the entrance to Pai town Below Threshing the rice stalks Opposite From Top to Bottom Mango and sticky rice is a great combination of textures Even a plate of fusion food needs a bed of rice Sticky rice is often served in a small basket ‘Kratib’

requiring overnight soaking, but its fans swear that no other version can satisfy hunger pangs as well as sticky rice. It is used in several delicious Thai desserts, including khao lam, for which sticky rice is pre-soaked, mixed with sugar and coconut milk and then baked in bamboo tubes. Mango and sticky rice is another exquisite combination of tastes and textures.

Rice is such a common feature of daily life in Thailand that we tend to take it for granted, but perhaps it’s time to acknowledge this bountiful gift from nature.

So next time we sit down to dinner, let’s spare a thought for all the effort that went into putting the rice on our plate, and give thanks to Thailand’s rice farmers for keeping up the rhythms of rice.

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NATIONAL PARKS

The Seven Best

National Parks in Thailand

Words Phoowadon Duangmee

Photos Shutterstock

From the Kingdom’s roof to its dazzling coral seafloors – a guide to the natural wonders that no visitor should miss

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ith its everchanging mosaic of landscapes and rich biodiversity, Thailand is a paradise for nature enthusiasts. The country boasts 154 national parks, each with its own distinct character that attracts both local and international visitors alike. Showcasing picturesque valleys, exotic wildlife, ancient rainforests, and mesmerising underwater scenery, these natural wonders logged over 17 million recreational visits last year.

Renowned parks like Khao Yai enchant the senses with the beauty of their rainforests. The allure rests in their tranquil and scenic beauty, the invigorating scent of fresh air, and thrill of outdoor activities. From the breathtaking valley vista on its highest mountaintop to dazzling white sandy beaches and warm crystal waters, here are Thailand’s top seven national parks to visit.

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CHIANG MAI DOI INTHANON NATIONAL PARK Rising to 2,565 metres above sea level, Doi Inthanon National Park has earned the title of the “Roof of Thailand”. Beyond its majestic peaks, the park distinguishes itself with enchanting waterfalls, dense evergreen forests, panoramic viewpoints, and as a haven for birdwatchers. This patch of Himalayan foothills is renowned for the Kew Mae Pan trail, a 4-kilometre trek through moist evergreen cloud forests, open grassland, and mountain meadows.

The trail offers a panoramic vantage point of awe-inspiring mountain vistas and wildflowers, especially the magnificent rhododendrons in full bloom during winter. While Doi

Inthanon National Park may not be home to large exotic animals like elephants, tigers, and gaurs, lucky visitors might spot a Goral – a wild mountain goat navigating steep cliffs and narrow crevices along the Kew Mae Pan trail. Yet, it’s the smaller exquisite creatures, such as the leaf warbler, that attract visitors and birders. Hosting more than 340 bird species, including stars like the Green-tailed sunbird, Hume’s pheasants, and White-headed bulbul, Doi Inthanon National Park is a year-round destination for wildlife enthusiasts. However, the Kew Mae Pan trail is only accessible from November to May.

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NATIONAL PARKS KANCHANABURI ERAWAN NATIONAL PARK Home to the iconic waterfall that gives the park its name, Erawan National Park stretches across 550 square kilometres along the Kwae Yai River and rainforest on Thailand’s western frontier. Erawan Waterfall’s seven-tier cascades gracefully descending into tranquil lagoons make it the country’s premier destination for outdoor swimming in the heart of tropical forest.

Meticulously maintained hiking trails wind through lush forests, diverse flora, and wildlife, with opportunities for leisurely strolls and more challenging hikes of varying difficulty levels.

The park is pockmarked with mysterious caves, offering a quick dose of adventure on your visit.

Tham Phra That cave, located 12 kilometres northwest of the park entrance, enchants with its stadium-sized chamber filled with shimmering limestone formations. Erawan National Park is a perfect blend of natural beauty, outdoor adventure, and relaxation, making it an ideal destination for both nature lovers and adventure seekers. The cooler months from November to February or the hot season from March to May are ideal for enjoying the falls and surrounding nature at Erawan.

NAKHON RATCHASIMA KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK Nestled in the heart of Thailand, Khao Yai National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, boasts a captivating sanctuary of natural wonders. Spanning 2,168 square kilometres, Khao Yai invites exploration – whether wandering through its evergreen forest trails, marvelling at cascading waterfalls, or observing its diverse wildlife. Awaiting visitors is a unique glimpse into the lives of elephants, deer, bears, gibbons, and a wide variety of bird species.

Renowned waterfalls such as Haew Narok and Haew Suwat contribute to Khao Yai’s allure, their picturesque settings made famous

by Hollywood blockbuster “The Beach”. Outdoor enthusiasts can immerse themselves in trekking, birdwatching, and wildlife safaris along well-maintained trails catering to different skill levels. Just a few hours’ drive from Bangkok, the park’s highlands provide a refreshing escape with a cooler climate. Night

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safaris and stargazing opportunities offer a different perspective on the park’s diverse ecosystems, making Khao Yai an ideal yearround destination. Beyond the park’s wildlife, the surrounding area boasts vineyards, golf courses, stylish lodges, and glamping sites, promising an intriguing adventure for every soul.

SURAT THANI KHAO SOK NATIONAL PARK Located 160 kilometres north of Phuket island, Khao Sok National Park showcases the rugged and diverse landscape of southern Thailand with its pristine ecology and geological wonders. Its ancient rainforest dating back 160 million years ranks among the world’s oldest, enthralling visitors with unmatched biodiversity and awe-inspiring limestone formations. Trekking here becomes a captivating adventure as troupes of macaques gracefully navigate the towering canopy accompanied by the haunting calls of gibbons resonating through the dense forest – an immersive and unforgettable experience. Khao Sok is home to 48 mammal species, 311 bird species, over 30 species of bats, and reptiles

and insects galore, solidifying its status as one of Thailand’s premier wildlife-watching destinations. At the park’s heart lies the enchanting Cheow Lan Lake, a tranquil oasis surrounded by towering cliffs. Here, boat tours, kayak adventures, and floating bungalows offer a fully immersive experience for visitors. Easily accessible from Phuket, Khao Sok National Park seamlessly blends ancient allure, vibrant ecosystems, and nature-friendly adventure for unforgettable expeditions into the heart of Thailand’s natural treasures. The park’s unwavering commitment to sustainable tourism further enhances its allure, making it a haven for those seeking an enriching and responsible encounter with the wild.

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NATIONAL PARKS

SURAT THANI MU KO ANG THONG NATIONAL PARK A two-hour speedboat trip from Koh Samui lands you among the natural wonders of Mu Ko Ang Thong National Marine Park, a seaborne sanctuary from the hassle and hustle of modern life. With 42 junglecovered islands recalling scenes from Alex Garland’s “The Beach”, the archipelago forms an emerald necklace in the azure waters of the Gulf of Thailand. This remote locale offers a postcard-perfect tropical escape characterised by lush greenery, untouched ivory beaches, and gin-clear waters. Hiking trails meandering through the islands guide explorers to breathtaking viewpoints, with Koh Mae Koh’s summit revealing an iconic panorama complete with an emerald-green saltwater lake surrounded by sheer cliffs. Beyond its scenic allure, Mu Ko Ang Thong is a testament to conservation efforts that have preserved its unique ecosystems and biodiversity.

Beneath the waves, a diverse underwater realm beckons, inviting visitors to explore vibrant coral reefs and teeming marine life with a snorkel or oxygen tank.

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UBON RATCHATHANI PHA TAEM NATIONAL PARK Along the Thailand-Laos border, where the Mekong River gracefully winds its course, sits the hidden gem of Pha Taem National Park.

While not the oldest, Pha Taem boasts prehistoric rock art dating back over 3,000 years, offering a unique fusion of ancient heritage and natural splendour. The ancient cliff paintings depict vibrant scenes of daily life three millennia ago, providing a captivating window into the region’s rich cultural and artistic heritage. Towering cliffs above the Mekong River serve as a dramatic backdrop for panoramic views, luring nature enthusiasts and photographers in search of serenity amid the surrounding countryside. Hiking trails weave through this natural sanctuary, leading to hidden treasures and a tranquil ambiance that invites

introspection. From November to January, delicate wildflowers such as common pipewort (“kradum ngern” in Thai), Burmese sundew (“chok bor wai”), and purple bladderwort “soi suwanna” paint a vivid canvas across Pha Taem National Park.

This destination offers a bewitching blend of history and nature, making it ideal for both heritage buffs and scenery freaks.

PHANG NGA MU KO SIMILAN NATIONAL PARK A two-hour boat journey from Phuket Island transports you to the awe-inspiring Mu Ko Similan National Park. Situated in the Andaman Sea, this captivating marine national park spans 128 square kilometres and 11 islands renowned among visitors and divers for breathtaking seascapes both above and below the waterline. Striking features above include rainforests, granite boulders, vivid aquamarine waters, and powdery white-sand beaches guarded by pristine coral reefs. Below the surface, Mu Ko Similan is a diver’s paradise, boasting world-class sites with distinctive rock

formations, swim-throughs, and the potential to encounter majestic marine creatures. People flock from all over the world to experience Similan’s numerous treasures, diving in to swim with whale sharks, giant manta rays, great barracuda, giant trevally and green sea turtles. The snorkelling is also exceptional, with warm lagoon waters and thriving shallow coral reefs. Awesome landscapes and diverse marine ecosystems position Mu Ko Similan as an essential destination for nature enthusiasts, adventure seekers, and those yearning for an idyllic retreat from the bustling world.

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KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Truly, Madly, Deeply Samui

Immerse yourself in the sunny (and moonlit) thrills of Samui! Embark on exhilarating jet ski rides, explore hidden waterfalls, and indulge in beachside parties as the sun dips below the horizon. Savour the island’s electrifying nightlife and bask in the luxury of beachfront resorts.

Samui offers the perfect blend of adventure and relaxation under the tropical Thai sun.

SAMUI 72 / PHUKET, KRABI 76 / CHIANG MAI, PATTAYA, TRAT 78 / BANGKOK 79 / HONG KONG, SINGAPORE 80 / PHNOM PENH, SIEM REAP, LUANG PRABANG 81

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HAPPENINGS THAILAND

COLOURS, CANVAS AND COFFEE

The tranquil vibes of Bang Por Beach reach high tide at Lay Lagom Café Bar. The bar takes its name from the Thai word for sea, “Talay”, and the Swedish word for sufficiency, “Lagom”.

Stepping inside this art café-barrestaurant, guests are welcomed by a stylish mishmash of artworks, décor and furniture. Like the living room of your artsiest friend, every nook and cranny has its own tale to tell.

The diverse design ethos extends to the menu with its blend of Thai fare, Western dishes, coffee, cocktails, cakes, and ice cream.

This eclectic mix somehow creates a comfortable harmony for guests of all ages, genders and nationalities.

Activities to choose from include painting by the sea, art workshops, art exhibitions, live music, and beachside movie nights under the stars. Tel: +66 (0) 62 545 6544, www. instagram.com/laylagom.cafe.bar.samui

SPOTLIGHT

Caffeine Meets Creativity Sip from a perfect brew, savour brunch dishes made with locally sourced ingredients and soak in the relaxing chic of SO CAFÉ.

SO CAFÉ SAMUI has been taking caffeine to new creative heights with premium Thai beans since 2017, also serving a menu brimming with treats ranging from French pastries and cake to brunch besties like sandwiches and pasta.

In response to demand, SO CAFÉ now has two outlets in Nathon: Original and Atelier.

Atelier lives up to its name, serving up not just scrumptious food and drinks but also creative art-and-craft workshops. Tel: +66 (0) 64 456 6246, www.facebook.com/socafexsamui

Photos: SO CAFÉ SAMUI 72

Photos: The Road Less Travelled Cafe Bistro

OASIS OF FOOD AND FUN

An oasis of delectable dishes and drinks, The Road Less Travelled Cafe Bistro (RLT) is a favourite among Samui foodies for breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner, and afternoon pick-me-ups made from 100% Arabica beans.

This family-run gem has been fuelling island connoisseurs with culinary treats and great vibes for more than six years now. Packed with artistic flair, the space is brought to life by neon décor and vibrant velvet furniture. Baked goods and artisanal chocolates are whipped up daily by the in-house baker and chocolatier.

Beyond its delectable offerings, the RLT hosts regular live music sessions, yoga classes and a variety of theatre and film events within its newly refurbished versatile space. Cocktail aficionados can look forward to sipping on playful creations in the soon-to-be-completed Dirty Dram cocktail bar. Tel: +66 (0) 61 196 9882, Facebook: The Road Less Travelled Cafe Bar Restaurant

SAMUI SPOTLIGHT

Mystical Mixology

SAFARI IN SAMUI

Muay Thai takes its cue from the martial art, packing a big herbaceous punch powered

by Mekhong whiskey, Amaro, rye whiskey, and Peychaud’s Bitters. And Waterfall transports you to the local Na Muang falls with its medley of peanut butter-washed rum, orange and banana liqueur, and clarified sugarcane juice.

Tel: +66 (0) 80 571 7571, www.facebook.com/SUVARNBAR

Photos: Jungle Kitchen

The drinks menu dazzles with inventive creations designed to tantalise your tastebuds, highlighted by signature cocktails inspired by the iconic landmarks of Koh Samui.

Three lip-smacking stars stood out for us. Hidden Gem is a rich and aromatic concoction of coconut-washed rum and pandan rice syrup that takes inspiration from Samui’s famed Ban Suan Lung Khai restaurant.

Photos: Mr. Ung’s Magical Safari Tours

Photos: Suvarn Bar

Don’t let the neon-lit party vibe of Chaweng Beach Road fool you into thinking you can’t find artful sophistication amid the frenzy.

Hidden among the hustle is a truly cultured gem – Suvarn Bar. Greeting guests at the door is Thao Wessuwan, one of the four heavenly kings of Buddhist mythology who guards the North against evil forces. Inside, an enchanting world of inspired mixology unfolds behind a sleek, low-lit bar.

COOKING WITH FOREST FLAIR

Your quest for a dreamy farm-to-kitchen cooking school ends right here at the Jungle Kitchen in Samui. Tucked away in a lush mountainside garden just a stone’s throw from the Fishermen’s Village, this charming venue is where delicious magic is made.

Learn how to whip up a classic Thai meal using time-tested techniques and traditional tools while enjoying breathtaking views of the Gulf of Thailand. The highlight of each lesson is picking the produce directly from the shop’s garden or farms nearby. The classes work like a dinner party where all guests gather in the kitchen to learn the tips and tricks of cooking up a fabulous feast. Charcoal cooking adds to the romantic allure of cooking under the stars during sessions.

Private lessons are also available. This one-of-a-kind school boasts a unique jungle charm where everyone can embark on a Thai cuisine journey tailored to their skills and interests. Tel: +66 (0) 62 341 8004, www.facebook.com/JungleKitchenSamui

Beach-hopping on Samui can be fun, but for a deep dive into island culture, why not explore every nook and cranny of the island with Mr. Ung’s Magical Safari Tours?

We recommend Mr. Ung’s ‘Full On’ Jungle Safari, starting with a hotel pick-up in a sleek Army Jeep. Your first stop is Samui’s iconic Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks (Hin Ta Hin Yai), followed by the Guan Yu Shrine, Wat Khunaram and its Mummified Monk, Na Muang Waterfall, Wat Plai Laem and its 18-armed Guanyin statue, and more. After visiting the island’s most famous landmarks, guests are taken on an adventurous drive up to the mountaintop for mesmerising views. This is a one-day excursion you won’t easily forget. Tel: +66 (0) 81 737 5427, www.mrungtourskohsamui.com

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HAPPENINGS THAILAND

SAMUI

CHERRY ON TOP

Photos: Marasca Samui

Marasca Samui is the latest addition to the list of must-stay spots in Samui’s popular Chaweng Beach. Named after the Marasca cherry, the newly opened resort offers a “feel at home” vibe in a luxurious setting. The well-being of both guests and the local community is at the heart of operations, as reflected in the resort’s FitWel Design Certification.

Guests can indulge in all-day dining at the on-site Cabanas Koh Samui Beach Club, with refreshing swims and spa treatments as the cherry on top.

Tel: +66 (0) 77 953 555, www.marasca.live

SPOTLIGHT

FIN-TASTIC FISHING HOLIDAY

Photo: TopCats Fishing Resort

If angling for heavyweights of the deep is your thing, TopCats Fishing Resort has you covered. Reel in the thrills of doing battle at their expansive 5-acre lake, home to more than 4,000 fish and 40 different species, including giant Mekong Catfish, Arapaima, Siamese Carp, and Amazon Redtail Catfish.

This spot has been top of Samui’s freshwater fishing game since 2006.

Guests can hire all the essential

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equipment and get guidance from local staff on how to bag the biggest catches. The resort offers customised fishing holiday packages tailored to your needs. Pristine accommodation, on-site bar and restaurant and a swimming pool promise the perfect getaway. Day passes are also available and come with a moneyback guarantee if you don’t catch anything. Tel: +66 (0) 84 184 1011, topcats.com

Looking to go clubbing during your vacay?

Head to the newly opened 79 Beach Club and Resort on Bangrak Beach for unlimited fun and unforgettable vibes. Billed as the largest beach club in Samui, 79 offers a stunning seascape, delicious food, well-crafted concoctions and a selection of premium spirits. But the highlight is the Samui-shaped swimming pool in the centre, begging for you to dive in.

Anyone with a bad case of FOMO (fear of missing out) can check in at the resort and party from sunrise to sunset and through the night.

Tel: +66 (0) 77 427 799, www.79samui.com

Photos: 79 Beach Club & Resort

New Kid on the Block

HAPPENINGS THAILAND SPOTLIGHT

Thai-Japanese Spa Culture There’s a massage shop on almost every corner in Phuket, but if you’re looking for quality, SAMA Onsen & Massage provides unmatched pampering.

This stylish spa in Phuket Town offers a special combination of traditional Thai massage and Japanese bathing culture. At Phuket’s first private Japanese onsen, patrons can soak in reviving water infused with

specially imported “onsen powder”. The perfect temperature and mineral ingredients help to detoxify body and soul. And their professional therapists are on hand with the best massage techniques to ensure the relaxation goes deeper. 2 1 Soi Saphan Hin, Talat Yai, Mueang Phuket; +66 (0) 82 249 9622; samaonsenspa.com

SEA GYPSY JOURNEY

On an island teeming with cafés, Jouet D’Art stands out. French for “art toys”, this Victorian-style café was clearly built with fairy tales and foodie fantasies in mind.

Along with an all-day brunch menu, Jouet D’Art serves up a delicious selection of freshly made French pastry laced with Japanese and Thai flavours. The ingredients are also top-notch. Think AOP butter from Normandy, Uji matcha from Japan and premium Valrhona chocolate. As an added bonus, Jouet D’Art is a great place to view sensational sunsets. In front of My Beach Resort, 105 Soi Ao-Yon Khao Khad, Wichit, Mueang, Phuket; +66 (0) 76 390 600

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HIDDEN PASTA GEM

For fans of small, familyowned restaurants off the beaten track, Madre Pasta Box in Rawai to the south of Phuket is a must visit. After years spent cooking in high-end hotels, Chef Suwit decided to try his hand at running his own restaurant. And we’re all better off for it. As the name implies, Madre Pasta Box specialises in homemade

pasta, which is made fresh daily for the restaurant as well as several neighbouring resorts. Barring a few appetisers, the menu is laser-focused on pasta in all its glorious variations.

Among our favourites are gnocchi with truffle cream sauce, ravioli with duck marinara, and squid ink tortellini with crab and spicy marinara. 75 Soi Khok Makham, Rawai, Mueang, Phuket; +66 (0) 62 860 2525

PHUKET / KRABI

LEARN THAI CULINARY WIZARDRY

Deep dive into Thailand’s culinary wonders at Ya’s Cookery School in Krabi. Elevate your foodie experience by learning how to make authentic Thai cuisine from legendary Chef Ya. With 17 years’ experience as an executive chef in Europe and resort food and beverage manager, Ya’s insights add a unique flair to her cooking programmes. Uncover the secrets behind the most magical Thai dishes and turn your visit into a flavourful adventure.

269 Moo 2, Ao Nang, Krabi; +66 (0) 64 716 4642; yacookeryschool.com

SPOTLIGHT

Ramen Revival

Ramen seems to be back in fashion as the Japanese noodle soup’s simmering popularity comes to the boil. And for good reason: when done right, there’s nothing more enchanting on the tongue. If you’re in Phuket, the best place to sample this unique magic is at Aogami Ramen Café.

Located in Phuket Town, this minimalist eatery in the lobby of Arbern Hotel may appear unassuming, but their ramen is exceptional. Most would agree that their rich and savoury tonkotsu (bone marrow broth) is the star, balancing the beautifully textured noodles with umami perfection. A small plant-based menu also caters to vegetarians. 54 Suthat Rd, Tambon Talat Yai, Mueang, Phuket; +66 (0) 76 225 391

ISLAND IN A BITE

Phuket’s diverse culinary scene runs from street stalls to Michelin restaurants, but O-Tao Bang Niao stands out as a gem for its version of the local dish O-tao. Cooked on a charcoal-fired griddle, this 40-year-old recipe sings with a unique blend of flavours and textures that surprises and delights.

The gooey, crunchy, salty treat features taro, spring onions, pork crackling, tiny shrimp, small oysters, egg, cassava flour and fried shallots – the essence of Phuket’s culinary diversity in a single bite. 362 Phuket Road, Talat Yai, Mueang Phuket; +66 (0) 91 515 4949

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HAPPENINGS THAILAND

CHIANG MAI / PATTAYA / TRAT

SPOTLIGHT

Invitation to Chef Black’s Table

ALL AT SEA IN THE JUNGLE

Chiang Mai’s vibrant culinary scene may be dominated by the iconic Khao Soi, but delve a little deeper and a rich tapestry of flavours unfurls in unlikely places. Nestled discreetly in the city centre, the cosy 16-seat Blackitch Artisan Kitchen exudes an air of refined simplicity.

Under the creative direction of Chef Black, aka Phanuphol Bulsuwan, this culinary gem beckons with Asian contemporary cuisine presented in an intimate Chef’s Table-style setting. Every bite tells a story of passion and creativity. Visitors embark on a culinary voyage with a dynamic 10-course menu that evolves with the rhythm of Thailand’s seasons, expertly curated by Chef Black. Drawing inspiration from Thai, Japanese, and Chinese culinary traditions, each dish is a testament to his precision and innovation. Chef Black’s mastery also extends to the art of brewing bespoke beers and sake, enhancing the dining experience with meticulously paired beverages.

Open daily for lunch & dinner. Reservation required.

27/1 Nimmanhaemin Soi 7, Mueang Chiang Mai, Chiang Mai; +66 (0) 93 695 6464

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Amid the sun-soaked shores and lavish resorts of Koh Chang lies a hidden wilderness waiting to be explored. This tropical paradise boasts lush mountain peaks and vibrant rainforests, providing adventurers with a web of trails to satisfy their wanderlust. From leisurely family strolls to full-day expeditions, there’s something for every hiker in search of an authentic jungle experience.

A highlight is the Khlong Phlu waterfall path, a breezy 32-minute trek perfect for birdwatching, relaxation, and a refreshing dip in the cool cascading waters. For those seeking a more immersive journey, the Salak Phet route takes you on a four-hour loop through tropical rainforest with panoramic ocean vistas and the serenity of secluded waterfalls. These trails beckon year-round, but navigating them safely may require the expertise of a local guide. Seek recommendations from your hotel for the perfect Koh Chang trekking adventure.

IMMERSE IN BLISS

In Japan, the art of bathing transcends mere hygiene to become a revered ritual of pleasure and relaxation deeply rooted in the country’s cultural foundations.

Pattaya’s Yunomori Onsen & Spa brings this exquisite tradition to life, offering a variety of bathing experiences that blend the traditional with the modern. Each bath provides a unique therapeutic journey.

The Yunomori Signature Bath, enriched with magnesium sulphate and essential oils, enhances detoxification and promotes healing, while the Thai Ceramic Bath, set in lush tropical surroundings, offers an authentic Thai experience with traditional giant ceramic jars. Located in a stylish edifice between South Pattaya and Thepprasit Road, Yunomori Onsen

& Spa elevates the bathing experience by combining Japanese bath culture with traditional Thai massage.

After soaking, indulge in treatments like the Herbal Compress, Deep Sleep Head Massage, and other well-being and beauty therapies.

Yunomori Onsen & Spa also features a Kids Club with a selection of fun games, and also Happy Rice, offering Japanese rolls and Asian dishes, ensuring a rich and rejuvenating experience for all ages. 300/59 Thepprasit Rd, Nong Prue, Bang Lamung, Chon Buri; open daily from 10am-10pm; +66 (0) 38 197 038; www.yunomorionsen.com/pattaya

THAILAND

BANGKOK

SPOTLIGHT

See the Sense

ISOPTIK specialises in measuring and crafting individualised progressive lenses, especially for middleaged and senior individuals.

Though eye impairment may not be a matter of life and death, seeing the world’s beauty with perfect vision is far better than poor eyesight. Stop by for healthy eyes and expert tips on how to care for them. Open Wed-Sun; 10am-7pm; 89, 2nd floor, AIA Capital Centre Building; www.isoptik.com/en

Photos: ISOPTIK

Our eyesight naturally deteriorates as we age, and our tech-heavy lifestyles, with eyes glued to screens for hours, only accelerate this decline. To combat this, regular eye care and checkups are essential. While finding an ophthalmologist might seem easy, what about a place where a team of skilled specialists, armed with 3D digital technology, can provide the precise protection your eyes need?

ART PUB

MASKED MASTERY

Thailand’s masked-dance tradition of Khon is celebrated worldwide as an elegant storytelling tradition preserving cultural wisdom through music, literary elements, elaborate masks and glittering costumes. Once performed only at royal court, Khon can now be appreciated by all of us – including Thai children who learn the dance at school.

One of the best venues to enjoy this sophisticated art is at MBK shopping centre in the heart of the city. Here, the “Khon Epic Thai Masked Performance” mesmerises audiences on the last Thursday of every month at 3pm and 6pm. G/F (Zone A) MBK Centre, Phaya Thai Rd.

Cinema, theatre, literature and art collide with great food and drinks at Doc Club & Pub in the heart of Sala Daeng. Known for screening indie films, classic flicks and documentaries, this intimate venue is also a stylish hangout with all-day dining and drinks until midnight. Sip coffee as you sweat over a project during the day before switching to something stronger as the night pulses to live melodies from Friday to Saturday. Doc Club & Pub’s airy, bright space doubles as a mini exhibition and music venue, welcoming gigs and fostering a creative environment for artistic expression. Open daily 11ammidnight; 1/3-7, 2nd floor, Woof Pack Building, Sala Daeng 1 Alley, Silom; docclubandpub.com

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HAPPENINGS

Photos: S&S Hospitality

Hui Designs/Moonchild

HONG KONG / SINGAPORE

SPOTLIGHT

A Delectable Dance

SUNNY BRUNCH ESCAPE

Treat yourself to the brunch magic at Moonchild, a pet-friendly haven on Jalan Besar. This Instagram-worthy spot isn’t just about appearances – it serves a solid range of classics to satisfy the heartiest appetites. Select from a diverse menu featuring local and western brunch delights ranging from mushroom on toast, eggs benedict and burgers to savoury-spicy pork dan dan scallion noodles. There are also plenty of pasta creations to get your tastebuds blooming with joy. With liquid accompaniments spanning coffee, tea and natural wines, Moonchild offers a whimsical escape for brunch lovers and people-watchers alike.

351 Jalan Besar #01-01, Singapore; Open Tuesday to Saturday 9am-10pm; Sunday 9am-7pm; @whoisthemoonchild/Instagram

Photo: The NCO Club

Renowned for its exquisite steaks and grilled meats, Argentinian steakhouse Tango has found a new home in Lan Kwai Fong. A meat lover’s paradise, Tango offers a wide selection of prime beef sourced from La Pampa, complemented with South American delicacies like empanadas and barbecued achuras.

The menu also features a feast of fresh seafood, but it’s the expertly charred steaks, aged cuts and Argentinian beef that bring diners back for more. 2nd Floor, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong; Open Mondays to Fridays 1.45am-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm; Saturdays, Sundays, and Public Holidays 11.45am-3.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm; www.facebook.com/ TangoHongKong

FROLICKING WITH MERMAIDS

Dive into the Fish Pool, a Beach Road landmark with a large pool and mermaid performances. Beyond its kitschy charm, this venue is a seafood and cocktail paradise. Set against an Olympic-standard diving pool, the menu boasts a tempting array of sashimi, crudo and ceviche.

Quench your thirst with tropical craft cocktails while enjoying the signature twice-nightly mermaid performance.

A visit here promises a memorable night filled with seafood delights and enchanting entertainment for you and your friends. 32 Beach Road, Singapore; Open Fridays and Saturdays 6pm-10.30pm; www.fishpool.sg

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CAMBODIA / LAOS

PHNOM PENH / SIEM REAP / LUANG PRABANG SPOTLIGHT

Cambodian Chic

Photos: Smateria

Owned and operated by women, Smateria offers a range of products and accessories imbued with Italian flair but handcrafted by Cambodian artists. Founded in 2006, the brand has carved a reputation for products that are both useful and stylish while boasting a sustainable twist. Think fun, colourful and functional.

Beyond style, Smateria works to empower local craftsmen and artisans, offering them an opportunity to showcase their creativity while earning a living. The brand also helps advance sustainability via products made from recycled, upcycled and repurposed materials.

Siem Reap Aviary Square, 9 Tep Vong Street; Open Mon-Sun, 10am-6pm; www.smateria.com

FRESH CATCH

If you’re craving fresh seafood in the Cambodian capital, Nesat is the place to head to. Located just east of the Russian Market, this rustic restaurant serves up a boatload of Khmer delicacies as well as seafood cooked the western way. Best of all, the fruits of the sea are served fresh, delivered daily from Kampot province.

Set up like a cosy fisherman’s home surrounded by lush greenery, Nesat offers a warm, inviting atmosphere with tables both indoors and out. As well as delicious creations from the kitchen, the restaurant also offers fresh seafood hot off the barbecue. St. 446, No. 72, Phnom Penh, Cambodia; +855 77 683 003; www.facebook.com/nesatseafood; Open Mon-Sat, 11am-11pm.

Photos: 3 Nagas Luang Prabang

Photos: Nesat

MEKONG SOPHISTICATION

Located in the restored interior of a UNESCO-preserved shophouse, Nāginī Bar blends old-world European elegance with exotic Lao culture. Luang Prabang’s latest chic cocktail hangout, the bar offers a menu populated with exotic local libations and Lao tapas. Along with delicious drinks and snacks, Nāginī also provides a cosy environment for socialising.

This meticulously restored colonial-era Khamboua House with a terrace overlooking the majestic Mekong River is a true local gem and ideal watering hole where you can savour inventive cocktails in warm and sophisticated surroundings.

3 Nagas Luang Prabang Vat Nong Village; www.3-nagas.com/ gastronomy/nagini; open 12pm-11pm daily

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CHECKING OUT

Whales of the Jungle In the serene forests of Bueng Kan province lies the Three Whale Rock or Hin Sam Wan – a breathtaking geological formation resembling three whales swimming side by side. Carved by nature over millions of years, these sandstone giants provide panoramic vistas of lush jungle and the majestic Mekong River.

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The largest rock, towering 75 metres high, serves as the perfect vantage point for exhilarating views of the rising and setting sun. This awe-inspiring site is captivating for its sheer size, making the rocks a must-see for those in search of the untouched beauty of Thailand’s Northeast wilderness.