Motorcycle Tourer launch edition, Jan 2022

motorcycle tourer

M O T O R C Y C L E T O U R E R .

C O M

Gear:

Our comprehensive review of the Keis J501 heated jacket

Riding:

The ultimate Lake District tour you can follow

Announcement:

Launching our creative-inspired tours

Be Inspired:

Riding the King of the Alps

launch edition January 2022

TABLE OF C 6

GEAR REVIEW: KEIS EDITOR’S CHAIR

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TOUR L THE VO

20

CONTENTS

LAUNCH: OSGES

40

WEEKEND BLAST: THE LAKE DISTRICT RIDING THE KING OF THE ALPS

62

Editor’s Chair Blasting through the Alps one quiet Monday morning, the sun was up and the temperature still cool.

The world was weary that morning. There were very few cars on the roads and yet fewer people. For that morning, I seemed to have the Alps to myself.

Rounding a left-hand bend, the vista opened up in front of me - and I was blown away. Pulling over, I switched off the engine.

Silence.

The morning sun bounced off the abstract haze over the canopy of trees below. The sound of bird song carried on the gentle breeze, and right there, I realised just how small I was in this thing we call home.

For that moment, the troubles of life dwindled away into nothingness. Those emails from my boss could wait. The voices of people in my head drifted away like a balloon, and my world was silenced.

Taking a flask out of my top box, I sat on a rock and poured some coffee into the thermos cup. I sipped. And listened.

And felt.

I took in the vision in front of me and for once, my mind wasn’t occupied with anything or anyone else. It was just me, the mountains, the view, and the birds.

Nothing else mattered.

So I took out my camera, brought it up to my eye, focused, and clicked the shutter. Then another. And another.

I took out my drone and sent it high above the mountains.

Looking at the screen, I soared above the mountain tops and looked down on this magnificent earth below. I was mesmerised - emotional, even.

I spent the rest of the morning sketching in my pad, taking photos, making videos, and jotting down thoughts in my notebook. And with the Alps as my canvas, I created memories - memories that will stay with me forever.

And thus, a new form of motorcycle touring was born for me. Because for once, touring ceased to be solely about the bike and the roads. Of course, they matter. But in the grand scheme of things, finding solace, some time to breathe, a little time to enjoy the world, creating, and making memories are far more important than the riding.

Because our lives don’t allow us the luxury of these things, do they? Who has time to go to a mountain top so they can think and feel?

Who has time in our quick-paced world to stop and smell the roses? And who the hell has enough time to put their worries aside to take photographs, make videos, paint, or write?

Me. I do. And I have time for it because I make time for it.

And the best part? I’m a better person for it. I’m calmer and fulfilled - no longer the frustrated creative. It’s heightened my love for the world, the scenery, and wildlife. And it’s put into perspective what actually matters in my mad, crazy life.

But it gets better, dear reader. Because now, you can have it too. Go to page 32, and come join me.

PAUL BARAN

GEAR REVIEW : KEIS J501 HEA

ATED JACKET

KEIS Heated gear will always be a divisive topic. Some people love it, others hate it. But do you remember that smile that washed across your face the first time you tried heated grips? Well, the Keis heated jacket is the next step up from that!

Once you finally get around to trying it, you’ll wonder why the hell you spent all those years freezing half to death.

As a long-time wearer and advocate of the original Keis heated vest, I was super excited to test out this more comprehensive version with sleeves and neck cuff.

And I’m glad to say it hasn’t been a disappointment.

FINELY CRAFTED The first thing I noticed about the Keis heated jacket upon receiving it in the post was just how well crafted it was.

It arrived in an elegant white box that was polished and oozed quality. The jacket was neatly folded, wrapped in tissue paper, then wrapped in thick cellophane and placed neatly in the box.

It felt like somebody had taken the time to think about the customer experience - and I genuinely appreciate it when companies pay attention to the small details.

LOOK Motorcycle kit isn’t renowned for looking good. But the Keis heated jacket actually looks pretty nice! Predominantly black with red accents and details, it’s understated, classy, and it looks and feels good both on and off the bike.

If you have Keis heated gloves, the wires tuck neatly into zipped pouches on the sleeves of the jacket. The main power wire tucks smartly into its dedicated home in the hem. And the connectors to the controller hide seamlessly in the side pockets. The whole thing is very well thought-out.

As well as being functional, the jacket is streamlined. And this means it’s perfect to wear in the evenings or when stopping off for a meal.

KEIS

FIT In terms of fit, Keis was always going to struggle. For a start, it’s unisex - and women and men are built differently.

Secondly, we’re all of differing proportions. For me, the jacket is a touch baggy in the upper arms whilst not being quite fitted enough around the waist. But then again, I’m tall and thin - like a marathon runner. And as always with Keis gear, I had to get a size smaller than I usually get.

That said, it is by no means uncomfortable. And just because it isn’t tailored to my exact proportions, that doesn’t mean it won’t be perfect for yours.

But for further peace of mind, Keis offer a free returns system. This means you can send the jacket back at no cost to swap it for a size that fits you. Great customer service right there! We like that.

It really doesn’t take long for this jacket to get warm and you can feel it the moment you turn it on.

For ease, there are just three settings to choose from - low, medium, and high.

Despite using this jacket for almost a year throughout the British winter as well as in horrific conditions in the Alps, I’ve never had it above ‘medium.’

For most conditions, I find that setting the jacket to ‘low’ and simply using it to stave off the cold rather than trying to warm me up, is plenty enough.

FEWER LAYERS As a rule, I try not to wear motorcycle-orientated clothing underneath my main riding jacket. Why? Because motorcycle kit is generally far too heavy and bulky. I wear a series of thin, technical layers that I can swap and change according to the temperature.

OPERATION The operation of the jacket is via a controller on your left side. It dangles down just enough that you can operate it whilst riding without having it flap about. When not in use, it tucks away nicely in the side pocket.

Press and hold the power button for a few seconds and the jacket powers up. Almost instantly, you can feel heat permeating through the jacket.

But with the Keis heated jacket, I found I could dispense with a few of these layers. And this gave me more freedom, more movement, and fewer layers of material scrunching up underneath my riding jacket.

If I get cold, I just turn the jacket on. If I get hot, I simply turn it off. And this is way simpler than getting on or off the bike to add or take away layers.

KEIS

KEIS

KEIS

HOW WARM IS IT? As mentioned above, this jacket heats up almost instantly - and it heats up more than you would expect!

For me, using it on the lowest setting is generally enough to keep me comfortable. Medium comes in useful for motorway riding on cold days.

A lot of the time, I don’t even turn the jacket on at all. As a standalone mid-layer, it provides an abundance of warmth without even powering it up.

I also find that if I wear the Keis heated jacket with the right combination of base layers, the jacket retains its warmth long after I turn it off.

FINAL WORD In short, this Keis heated jacket has quickly become one of my staples when riding locally and whilst touring. At first, I wondered if I could live without it. But it was only when I went for a particularly cold ride through the Lake District in early January that I realised just how much I missed it!

The build quality is excellent, and you can tell Keis have put a lot of thought into the design, the materials, the style, and even the packaging.

Couple this with the fact that this jacket (along with all Keis products) comes with a lifetime warranty, it’s easy to justify the purchase.

Highly recommended!

KEIS

The

Vosges

Mountains

motorc

cycle tours for creative minds

The

Vosges Mountains

> ride truly exhilerating roads enjoy breath-taking scenery >

> get lost in the diverse nature of these two wonderful national parks

immerse yourself in the creative paradise > of the Vosges mountains

>

Overview

We like to stay in a hotel near the Eurotunnel the night before we make our way across the channel. For anyone who wishes to join us, the first round is on us as we say our hellos and get to know each other over a meal and a celebratory drink.

The following morning, it’s time to fuel up and cross the channel into the beautiful country of France.

Meandering through the wide-open spaces of northern France, we make our way to our accommodation for 4-nights in the town of Gérardmer, taking in Verdun and Arras along the way.

Over the next 3 days, we’ll ride some of the most exhilarating roads in France. Away from the tourist hotspots, we’ll blast through the woodlands and forests of the Vosges before reaching the summits of the surrounding mountains.

Riding the mountains roads, we’ll take in the incredible views from Le Hohneck, Le Grand Ballon, and the Rue du Ballon as we ride the legendary Route des Crêtes.

During our stay, we’ll also dip out of the mountains to witness the stunning views of emerald green as we wind our way into Alsace before heading back up into the mountains.

Upon leaving our home in the Vosges, we head south towards Besançon, riding through the awe-inspiring val-

leys and canyons of eastern France.

Getting lost in the bottle-green forests, every now and then you’ll be rewarded with a glimpse of the mountain views through the trees. Stopping in natural areas untouched by humans in decades, you can wander through the forests and wildflowers, enjoying the views of the Vosges mountains to the north, and the Jura mountains to the south.

Of course, there are plenty of opportunities to get creative; from sweeping landscape shots to intimate woodland compositions.

Continuing towards the Jura mountains, we’ll stop off at the iconic Hotel Les Terrasses - a local bikers meet-up - where we’ll soak up the atmosphere whilst enjoying the terrific local food.

Having spent all day riding on gloriously winding, traffic-free roads, we arrive at our accommodation in Pontarlier where we’ll treat you to an evening meal on us.

When we’ve finished sampling the Jura mountains, we’ll head back north, through eastern France and back towards the Eurotunnel.

Once again, we like to stay locally upon our return and you’re welcome to join us. If not, we’ll say our goodbyes when we exit the Eurotunnel and hopefully see you again for the next one!

Bringing Creative Elements To Motorcycle Touring For years, we were like you.

Blasting through tours, we enjoyed them. But we knew there was more to be had. We were missing the creativity that we needed. The urge to take in the beauty of the landscape.

The opportunity to take out a camera and spend an hour creating memories. Throwing up a drone. Sketching in a pad. Writing not only about what we saw, but how it made us feel.

Over time, touring became our creative outlet. A way to feel and be moved. Food for the soul. And experiencing it with friends, people like you, made us feel alive.

Now is the time for you to join us. So saddle up. We’ll reserve you a place.

Creative Opportunities In Each Route

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fantastic location stops for photography

>

time to compose and create

>

flexibility within routes

>

optional sunrise/sunsets shoots

>

time to edit, process and upload

“Art washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life” > Pablo Picasso

Walks, Runs & Hikes Who said the day has to be over when you reach your hotel? Of course, if you want it to be, it can be!

>

But for those who want to explore with their cameras, we have pre-planned walking and hiking routes around our accomodations.

>

Want to keep up with your fitness? No problem. Go for a run through the Vosges forests with one of our pre-planned routes that we can upload to your smartwatch.

>

None of these for you? That’s okay, feel free to sit in the hotel gardens with a beer, enjoying the views, taking in the fresh air and reminiscing on your day.

BOOK YOUR PLACE • 1st - 9th June 2022 • 23rd - 31st August 2022 MOTORCYCLETOURER.COM/TOURS

find all the details

HERE

“ Everything you can imagine is real ” > Pablo Picasso

THE FUTURE OF MOTORC

Motorcycle tours have been aroun Combining exhilarating roads with breath-taking s Be moved by your tour. Be Get creative. G

Rider’s Tours.

Elegantly Crafted.

CYCLE TOURING IS HERE

nd for decades. But not like ours. scenery, we search out the emotive side of touring. e moved by what you see.

Get connected.

THE

LAKES

Two things bring me great pleasure in life.

On one side of the spectrum, I love roaring through beautiful locations on my motorbike. Powering through the straights. Approaching a bend. Braking hard. The jubilant snarl of my bike as I blip the throttle on a down-change.

Holding the line. Holding the throttle. And then accelerating out when the view opens up so I can do it all over again.

Ever intoxicating, it never becomes tiresome.

On the other side of the spectrum is landscape photography. The serenity. The peace. Being in nature and exploring all it has to offer. The clarity of mind that comes from a tough hike up a mountain. The feeling you get when you witness a sunrise from the summit - knowing that this particular sunrise will only ever happen once and only you will see it.

But for many years, these two passions were entirely separate entities.

Until now.

See, this was when I combined the two. With minimal kit, I realised I could pack my camera equipment onto my bike and enjoy both the ride and the photography simultaneously.

So I planned a trip to the Lake District that took in most of my favourite roads and a selection of some of my most treasured photography locations.

Starting from Kendal, I split the route into two short days - simply so I could have time to explore with my camera.

At 166 miles, the route itself could easily be ridden in a single day and should take around 5 and a half hours.

Add in a lunch break and a few photo opportunities, and you could do it in 7 hours.

THE

But for me, the chance to explore with my camera was just as important as the ride. So I split it into two days and stayed a stone’s throw away from Wastwater in the Western Lakes - my favourite part of this wonderful area.

LAKES

Waterhead, Ambleside Our first stop from Kendal would be Waterhead. Situated near the centre of Ambleside, it’s a perfect place to stop and have breakfast or lunch. YHA Ambleside is also on the lakeside providing affordable accommodation with excellent views should you wish to stopover.

With such stunning scenery, it’s no surprise that this area can get busy at weekends. Park up before sunrise and you’ll often find mist over the water as the sun comes up.

For a relaxing way to spend an evening, get here later when all the tourists have gone and you’ll have the place to yourself as the sun goes down.

Blea Tarn After filling our bellies with bacon barms and cups of tea in Ambleside, we continued our journey heading west towards the Langdale Pikes - a truly epic region of the Lake District.

You can spend all day hiking some wonderful trails in this part of the Lakes. But be warned, the weather can be pretty fierce. Pound for pound, the Langdale Pikes offer up some of the best landscapes in the Lake District.

Riding through the Pikes, we headed south towards Wynrose Pass, stopping first at Blea Tarn - one of my favourite areas in the Lake District.

For me, Blea Tarn is best at sunrise where you’ll not only get some stunning images but be treated to wildlife going about its daily business.

Expect deer. And expect to shit yourself if you happen to be there during rutting season! The rutting sounds like the roars of a lion. And the sound of galloping behind you in the darkness is enough to get your heart going!

waterhead

Blea Tarn

Image by Kaca Skokanova via Shuttershock

Wynrose Pass After Blea Tarn, you’ll find yourself at the foot of the first major pass of the day - Wynrose Pass.

The pass itself is an enjoyable one if you take your time. And seeing as though it’s a single-track road, you’ll want to take your time!

It isn’t the most technical road in the Lake District, but it winds its way beautifully towards Hardknott Pass - the next pass on your list.

At the summit of the pass, you’ll find a parking area that is perfect for enjoying a packed lunch if the sun is shining.

And if you carry on down the pass, there are excellent photo opportunities to be had of the winding road disappearing into the Wynrose valley below.

Hardknott Pass Once you’ve completed Wynrose, you can expect things to become challenging. Crossing the little bridge, you’ll see Hardknott pass ramp up to its one-in-three gradient.

Image by pxl.store via Shuttershock

Image by tipwam via Shuttershock

Image by VicS21 via Shuttershock

Image by djaphoto via Shuttershock

Image by Dave Head via Shuttershock

Don’t be disillusioned - this is a technical road to ride. Not impossible, but it’s enough to get your ticker ticking and there’s a reason why it has a reputation of being one of the most difficult roads to ride in the UK. We were unfortunate enough to be there during a cycle race that was also on the pass at the same time we were.

The gradients are steep, the turns are tight, and you’ll need superb clutch control if you happen to be on there with cyclists!

The road is narrow - and if a car is coming in the opposite direction, you’ll need to pick your line carefully.

That said, it’s a great road to ride and one that will test your skills. And your metal!

Wast water Once we had gotten over the trauma of riding Hardknott pass, we headed northwest towards Wastwater - my alltime favourite location in the Lake District.

Residing in the western Lakes, Wastwater has been repeatedly voted as the UK’s most favourite view. But it’s actually a pain to get to, so there are generally very few people there - which is always a bonus.

Riding past the hostel and over the cattle grids, you’ll make a left turn, and out of nowhere, Wastwater will open up to you in all its glory.

It really is a wow moment that makes your stomach go all tingly.

The road runs parallel with the Lake for its entirety, and there are plenty of places to stop and admire the view - most of which are just a few feet from the lapping of the water.

Feel it. Touch it. Take it in. Because it’s magical.

On the opposite side of Wastwater, you’ll see some scree-heavy fells which are fun to climb - but also very challenging.

THE

If you want to hike in this region, many people will point you towards the Scafell range. But in my opinion, the best views are to be had from Great Gable, which is accessible from the parking areas to the north of Wastwater.

LAKES

wastwater

THE

LAKES

Buttermere After a night in the Ennerdale Country hotel, our first destination the following morning was Buttermere in the northwest of the Lakes.

For me, Buttermere is quintessentially English and fulfils the chocolate box persona of the Lakes.

It’s a nice ride there, with lovely views of Loweswater and Crummock Water. And once you get to Buttermere, you can easily walk around sections of the Lake. If you have your camera with you, a shot of the Lone Tree is a must!

You’ll struggle to get an original composition of this tree. But the conditions here are changeable, and you can get both serene, peaceful shots when the water is calm or dark and moody shots if the wind picks up.

Newlands Pass (or Honister Pass, or Whinlatter Pass) Newlands Pass is a lovely road that covers about 3 miles and traverses the ledge of the Newlands valley. As with most places in the west and northwest Lakes, it’s sparsely populated, and traffic won’t be an issue.

Once at the top, there is a parking area to have your lunch. Or if you prefer, carry on to Stair where you can have lunch at the Swindale Inn. Although we chose Newlands Pass for this route, you can also head east towards Keswick by taking the more northerly Whinlatter Pass or the southerly Honister Pass.

If you want high and steep, go for Honister pass - one of the highest passes in the Lakes. For scenery and relaxation, head for Whinlatter.

All three passes will bring you out in the general vicinity of Keswick - a beautiful (but busy) little town that has a wonderful aura about it. You’ll be inundated with B&B’s should you want to stop over, and there are plenty of restaurants and cafes to choose from.

Keswick is also a great place to base yourself for a few days, where you can hike the many trails around Derwentwater or island-hop on the boats which is a charming way to waste away a day.

buttermere

abbott’s bay

ullswater

isthmus bay

Abbott’s Bay & Catbells If you fancy a short (but steep) hike (about a mile long), park up next to Catbells on your way to Keswick. You’ll get a sweat on, but the views are astonishing.

Want something easier? Head across the road towards Derwentwater. The 5-minute walk through the forest will bring you out at Abbott’s Bay. Again, you will be alone, and it’s a wonderful way to spend the day reflecting and simply ‘being.’

Isthmus Bay Another glorious place to visit on the way to Keswick is Isthmus Bay - a secluded rocky beach that is a pain to find but worth it when you get there!

Hidden from view, you’ll likely have this place to yourself except for the occasional paddleboarder coming past.

Get there at lunchtime when the sun is at its highest, and you’ll be rewarded with glimmering, deep blue waters and reflections of the sun.

Ullswater I’m not sure why, but I don’t feel right going to the Lake District without visiting Ullswater. I always find myself making an excuse to pass even if I don’t need to - just because it feels wrong if I don’t!

Coming from the northeast, we first stopped off in Pooley Bridge for a brew and a shot of the Pooley Bridge boathouse - a staple if you’re a landscape photographer.

Continuing southwest and following the A592, you’ll pass a multitude of small parking spots for epic views over the legendary Ullswater.

Here you’ll find hazy sunrises that create abstract imagery with your eyes, as well as gloomy, foreboding conditions if the weather turns.

THE

On clear mornings, you can find a range of colours from blue, orange, or pink. And if the rain sets in during the evening, you can expect rich, silver conditions.

LAKES

POOLEY BRIDGE

THE

LAKES

Kirkstone Pass Finally, we reached Kirkstone Pass. For me, riding it from Ullswater is the better way of riding it, but either way, it’s not my favourite pass.

Kirkstone Pass is one of those that lulls you into a false sense of security and then throws a sharper than expected bend into the mix to see if you’re paying attention!

Apart from some attention-grabbing bends, you also need to be careful of the surface that can be greasy and gravely.

A Fabulous 2-Day Ride!

I’m glad I chose to split this day’s ride into two days in order to fully appreciate the landscape and take in the scenery.

If you’re tired of the smoke and smog of the city, the Lake District is what you need to cleanse both your mind and your soul.

From arduous mountain hikes to winding passes, and from quaint little villages to bustling towns, this ride has something for everyone.

Image by VicS21 via Shuttershock

Sat Nav Directions: 1. Kendal 2.Lindale 3.Newby Bridge 4.Near Sawrey 5.Waterhead 6.Great Langdale 7. Blea Tarn 8.Wynrose Pass 9.Hardknott Pass 10. Wastwater 11. Cleator

Sat Nav Directions: 1. Sea-to-Sea (C2C) 2.Lowestwater 3.Braithwaite 4.Grange 5.Keswick 6.Troutbeck 7. Stainton 8.Pooley Bridge 9.Glenridding 10. Kirkstone Pass 11. Windermere 12. Kendal

Riding freedom.

Quietly orchestrated.

Ride your own way.

We take pride in giving our touring participants freedom. That’s why we give you the option of riding in the group, riding with a buddy, or even riding alone.

Our tours have two ride leaders - one at the front of the group steering the ship, and one at the back to make sure nobody gets lost.

As a participant, you’ll be somewhere in the middle of our ride leaders, blissfully unaware of the caring hands that are quietly guiding you to your accommodation for the night.

RIDING THE RIDING THE

KING KING OF THE ALPS OF THE ALPS

Our ride up the Col de l’Iseran promised to be a big day

Black clouds formed an omnipotent canopy above us, and

in our motorcycle tour of France. And a big day it was - in

bikers coming down the Col from the opposite direction

more ways than expected! Starting our day in the beautiful

looked thoroughly wet and miserable. We weren’t greeted

(but busy) Aix-les- Bains, we would summit five major Cols

with the usual waves from our fellow bikers on that day -

before we even reached the Col de l’Iseran. Among others,

just defeated faces in cold, wet helmets.

some of the highlights we would climb included the Col de Bluffy, the Col de la Croix Fry, and the Col du Pre - all of

Stopping at the roadside, we had a choice to make. Do we

which were spectacular.

turn around? Or do we go for it? Gazing up, we looked at this incredible mountain that towered above us.

We reached the Col de l’Iseran in the late afternoon. To be honest, it was bordering on too late. The day was losing

I don’t know why, but a few select mountains in the Alps

light, and the weather (as always) was beginning to set in.

have an almost menacing feeling about them. They intimi-

As we approached Bourg-Saint-Maurice, ominous and fore-

date you, and they dare you. The Col de l’Iseran is one such

boding clouds rolled in fast whilst thunder and lightning

mountain.

crackled away in the distance.

As the rain came down in biblical proportions, the temperature plummeted. We looked at one another, concerned.

“F*ck it. Let’s do this thing.”

We didn’t realise it at the time, but the climb up the Col de l’Iseran is split into two parts when approaching it from the town of Bourg-Saint-Maurice.

The first part is quite underwhelming if truth be told. You get the feeling you’re approaching something special as you leave Bourg-Saint-Maurice. But the roads are nondescript and dwindle into the forgettable as you fight your way through the tourist traffic.

Sporadic roadworks remind you that you’re in the Alps - as do the slow-moving lorries and the impossible number of construction vehicles.

The scenery is lovely. But thrilling, it is not.

For us, the weather continued to warn us to turn around and head back. Darker. Wetter. Colder.

Stopping once again, we changed into winter gear. The summer gloves and jackets we needed to summit the Col du Pré were rendered useless. So we swapped out for thermal-lined winter jackets and thick, luxurious gloves.

KING

Between the little towns of Bourg- Saint-Maurice and Val-

hind us as the spectacular views of the Alps opened up.

d’Isère, we entered the numerous tunnels to take us to

The road was epic. The views were outstanding. The feel-

the Col. The tunnels are unlit and are dangerous for any-

ing was emotive. Once again, I laughed in my helmet as

body who is in them. Unable to see the surface, our tyres

I climbed higher into the clouds.

slipped and slid from the residual water carried into the tunnels from the cars. Headlights came towards us at

Switchback after switchback, I caught glimpses of Val-

50kph, distorted as they bounced off the water droplets

d’Isère below us - tiny people milling around in a tiny

on our rain-soaked visors.

town like busy ants in a trendy matchbox. The roads became narrow. And as the wind blew in, I became increas-

Momentary blindness released a flood of adrenalin as I

ingly aware that there were no barriers at the side of the

rode blind into the tunnels - and I laughed. This was an

road. In horrific conditions, we were unprotected and at

adventure. The weather was against us, and the condi-

the mercy of the mountain. And just when we thought it

tions were making things difficult. It wasn’t going to be

couldn’t get any worse, things became dangerous.

an easy experience. But then again, the best ones never are.

Fighting our way to the summit, I began to feel the sharpness of hail on my helmet. As it got worse, I could feel it

Reaching the town of Val-d’Isère, I was expecting a fan-

bounce off my hands. Within a few minutes, it was phys-

fare of triumphant jubilation that we’d made it. But alas,

ically hurting as marble- sized hailstones pelted our bod-

there was nothing but a tourist town going about its usual

ies and our bikes.

touristy business. Lining both sides of the road were hotels, supermarkets, and high street shops. We even saw

Where the rain had formed rivers at the foot of the Col,

a Co-Op and a McDonalds. Both disappointed me greatly.

the hail had formed an ice rink near the summit of it.

Slowing down to a walking pace, we continued to ascend.

But continuing through the tourist hotspot, we finally reached the foot of the Col de l’Iseran. The traffic died

The roads were all but empty at this point. Sane people

down - as did the noise. We were welcomed to the moun-

had turned around a long time ago and made their way

tain by a deafening crack of thunder. And as we forged

to the safety of Val-d’Isère. Only a few brave (or crazy)

ahead, the heavy rain formed raging rivers across the

souls were left on that mountain. And as the remaining

surface of the road. Making our way up the ascent, the

few bikers passed us in the opposite direction, we ac-

traffic, the roadworks, and the tourist towns were left be-

knowledged each other earnestly, out of respect.

Image by Mauro Piccardi via Shuttershock

KING

KING

Image by 3LPasso via Shuttershock

Image by Elephotos via Shuttershock

Image by Elephotos via Shuttershock

The respect between the bikers on that mountain was tangible - emotional, even. It was hardcore. It was an experience to remember. It was difficult, and each of us was having to work for our story.

The kilometres ticked by, and eventually, we reached the summit. I’d taken my camera, my drone, and a tonne of batteries. I knew it was going to be a spectacular day, and I wanted to capture the magnificence of the mountain when I got there. But I wasn’t expecting the conditions we got.

Amid the rain and the hail, we were shrouded in thick fog that rendered invisible views in every direction. At 2 ,7 6 4 m, I supposed you should expect a bit of fog! By this point, we were cold, wet, and desperate to get off the mountain.

It was getting visibly darker by the minute - like God was switching off the lights with a dimmer switch.

I had to forego the photographs and drone footage. Instead, we added layers underneath our jackets. We swapped cold, wet gloves for dry ones. Unable to zip up our jackets through the shivering, we took turns in doing up each other’s kit.

And just as we were about to leave, an intrepid learner rider from Italy pulled up beside us. Visibly cold, shaken, and out of his depth, he looked so pleased to see us. He took a snapshot on his phone without even getting off his bike and set off back down the mountain. A few minutes later, our kit was finally zipped up, and we could begin our descent.

Image by Claudio Giovanni Columbo via Shuttershock

Uncompromisin Quality.

Unapologetical Expensive.

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lly

We choose to lead smaller, more intimate groups. We refuse to cram as many people as we can onto our tours just to make money. Why? Because your experience will suffer.

We don’t squeeze you into shared hotel rooms with people you barely know. Why? Because your experience will suffer.

We don’t split participants up by putting them in separate hotels.

Why? Because your experience will suffer.

Our tours are ridden, re-ridden, finessed, perfected, and then ridden all over again to make sure they’re perfect when you get there.

We know our hotel owners personally. We take pride in the details.

We’re proud of the services we offer.

We chose to run fewer tours each year for a select number of people.

Why? Because it allows us to prioritise quality and experience above all else.

In the distance, I could spot the bright yellow rain suit of

of our accommodation. And then it happened.

the Italian rider we’d seen at the summit. He was struggling. By this point, it was getting dark. Visibility was poor

Due to the heavy rainfall, the road surfaces were inch-

through the rain, and it was dangerously cold.

es deep in water. And in an effort to remain safe, I was

Remnants of hail still coated the surface of the road.

avoiding as many bike movements as I could. Maintaining throttle, I glided through bends keeping as much ground

Sensing his struggles, my dad and I overtook him to of-

clearance as I could and shaving off as little speed as I

fer him protection from the elements. Offering our expe-

could get away with.

rience, we gave him much-needed company and the comfort of an alliance. Winding our way down the treacherous

But as I applied throttle when exiting bends, my bike be-

roads, we all made the descent into civilisation and away

gan to judder.

from the wrath of the mighty Col de l’Iseran.

Carrying on, I noticed a loss of power. The engine started As we rolled onto the foothills on the other side of the Col

getting hot, and a throaty burble became audible - differ-

de l’Iseran, my confidence was rising. I was soaking wet

ent from the Africa Twin’s usual song.

and freezing cold. I was shivering and shuddering, and

Chugging and burbling, I limped the bike along the

I was beginning to bite the inside of my cheeks as my

rain-sodden roads for 2 0 km towards our hotel.

teeth chattered. But I was victorious. I’d taken on one of the highest paved roads in the Alps and survived.

And halfway up the final hill, the bike ran out of steam and died. I put both feet down, flicked into neutral and

Not only that, but I’d taken it on in the worst conditions a

let the bike have a rest. The rain bounced off my soaking

biker could imagine. The deluge continued to soak south-

body, dribbled down my jacket, and pooled uncomforta-

eastern France as we powered through it towards to warmth

bly in my crotch.

KING

In the distance, I could spot the bright yellow rain suit of

I’d taken on one of the highest paved roads in the Alps and

the Italian rider we’d seen at the summit.

survived.

He was struggling.

Not only that, but I’d taken it on in the worst conditions a biker could imagine.

By this point, it was getting dark. Visibility was poor through the rain, and it was dangerously cold. Remnants of hail still

The deluge continued to soak southeastern France as we

coated the surface of the road.

powered through it towards to warmth of our accommodation.

Sensing his struggles, my dad and I overtook him to offer him protection from the elements. Offering our experience,

And then it happened.

we gave him much-needed company and the comfort of an alliance.

Due to the heavy rainfall, the road surfaces were inches deep in water. And in an effort to remain safe, I was avoid-

Winding our way down the treacherous roads, we all made

ing as many bike movements as I could.

the descent into civilisation and away from the wrath of the mighty Col de l’Iseran.

Maintaining throttle, I glided through bends keeping as much ground clearance as I could and shaving off as little

As we rolled onto the foothills on the other side of the Col,

speed as I could get away with.

my confidence was rising.

But as I applied throttle when exiting bends, my bike would I was soaking wet and freezing cold. I was shivering and

judder. I know my bike. And I knew that those judders wer-

shuddering, and I was beginning to bite the inside of my

en’t right. Something was wrong.

cheeks as my teeth chattered.

Carrying on, I noticed a loss of power. The engine started But I was victorious.

getting hot, and a throaty burble became audible - different from the Africa Twin’s usual song.

KING

KING

Chugging and burbling, I limped the bike along the rain-sodden roads for 2 0 km towards our hotel. And halfway up the final hill, the bike ran out of steam and died. I put both feet down, flicked into neutral and let the bike have a rest. The rain bounced off my soaking body, dribbled down my jacket, and pooled uncomfortably in my crotch.

Out of desperation, I put the bike in gear. And with one last fist full of throttle, I got it to the top of the hill and coasted down the other side to the welcoming arms of my hotel.

Unable to get it fixed locally, the breakdown company advised I get the bike towed back home. Which I did. I completed the rest of my tour by driving from the south of France to the UK in a Renault Clio hire car - which the birds subsequently shat on.

I’d like to think that I took on the Col de l’Iseran at its worst and survived. But the truth of the matter is that whilst I won the battle, I lost the war.

To this day, I don’t know if the mountain killed my bike or if it was a fault that was going to happen regardless. But either way, would I do it again?

You bet I would - and I’d love every damn second of it!

RIDING THE

KING OF THE ALPS

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Guided by you.

The freedom of flexibility.

Our self-guided tours are designed to give you freedom.

Tour when you like.

Ride at a pace that suits you. Stop whenever you’re inspired and take full control of your trip.

Of course, you’ll still get the benefits of our partnerships and network - even though we’re not with you. And we’ll check in with you daily to ensure you have everything you need.

We strive to ensure our motorcycle tours are as carbon-neutral as possible, and we partner with Sustainable Travel International to offset our carbon emissions and lessen our environmental effect. Sustainable Travel International works with local communities, governments, and businesses to fund initiatives that help protect ecosystems, minimise tourism’s carbon impact, and reduce waste and pollution.

We also practise a “leave no trace” policy to ensure that the beautiful landscapes and natural environments we explore are left exactly as we find them. We believe in working with local suppliers as much as possible to ensure that what we spend on tour go towards supporting local economies.