Motorboat Owner December 2014

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Motorboat DECEMBER 2014

Owner Affordable practical boating

BOAT TEST

Jeanneau MF695 Marlin PRACTICAL Sealine F37 l Preparing for winter l Seamaster 820

Galvanic Corrosion

Welcome to the December

From the Editor

issue. As a practical sort of person I will usually turn my hand to any form of mending and making, but until now I have never thought of using fabric as my building material. After a one day course, and a quick lesson in thread tension settings, I was off and running and, in no time at all, I managed to turn out some new seat cushions for our project boat. I don’t mind

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contact us Motorboat Owner Digital Marine Media Ltd Suite 6 Philpot House, Station Road, Rayleigh, Essex SS6 7HH

editorial@motorboatowner.co.uk

General Enquiries

01268 922991

2 October 2013

December 2014

exactly on the first of December and runs for three months. In this way I can at least kid myself that spring is here on the first of March, despite the usual freezing temperatures we are still enduring. In readiness for him upstairs turning winter on next Monday, I have installed some tube heaters in the engine bay of our Sealine. If you need some advice on how to protect your boat we have added an appendix to this issue. It’s a repeat of last year’s winterising feature and I hope that readers, both new and long standing, will find it a useful guide. In light of last year’s lively weather, we have also asked our insurance expert for his pearls of wisdom with regard to keeping your boat safe over the next few months.

You can find his tips on page 70.

I’d like to finish by thanking all those who have contacted us over the last month. It is great to receive your emails, photos and comments, so please keep them coming.

welcome aboard

Image provided by Dean & Reddyhoff

admitting that I am quite proud, and more than a little surprised, at the result. They may not be quite up to professional level, but it does go to show that, given some basic instruction, a desire to achieve and a practical nature, we can often do far more than we give ourselves credit for.

Another trait of being practically minded is that I like everything to be neat and pigeon holed. For me, winter starts

A historic past. The entrance to Portsmouth Harbour and Haslar Marina. Read our guide to visiting Gosport on page 46

Editor, Neale Byart Advertising: For all brokerage, 01268 922992 display or classified adverts neale@motorboatowner.co.uk 01268 922994 advertising@motorboatowner.co.uk Associate Editor, Claire Frew Subscriptions: 01268 922991 01268 922993 subscriptions@motorboatowner.co.uk claire@motorboatowner.co.uk Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

3

enjoy the

feel the

LIGHT

SPACE VERSATILITY

discover the

the all

NEW

S330

F380

S380

F450

S450

Contact your local dealer Southern & Eastern England Penton Hook Marine Sales Ltd T: 01932 570055 E: chris@pentonhooksales.co.uk W: www.thamesboatsales.co.uk

www.sealine.com

North of England, Scotland & Wales Shepherds Marine Ltd T: 01539 446004 E: sales@shepherdsmarine.co.uk W: www.shepherdsmarine.co.uk

Mainland Spain Sealine Costa Blanca T: +34 965 708 542 E: mark@sealinecostablanca.com W: www.sealinecostablanca.com

CONTENTS DECEMBER 2014

PRACTICAL

NEWS page 6 INBOX page 10 CUTTING EDGE page 44 Q&A page 22 TESTED page 58

n Galvanic Corrosio

ADVICE

PRAC TICAL

REGULARS

In these even con cases, rain wa ter, sal the ele densation or t spr ctrolyte. humidit ay and If you have eve y provide r battled

to rem ove aluminiu a stainless ste galvan m deck fitting el bolt from ic corros an The sim ion for you can blame plest for your tro coatin m of pro ubles. g of tectio coming paint. This stops the n is a good and bre into contact with the metal aks the you can gal electroly not rely vanic cell. te below Unfor tunate the wa on paint alo ly ter ne, can be easily line where the especially damage metals paint lay d. fro er preven m each oth Isolating the tin er bushes g galvanic cor is another wa or non y of rosion gasket s will hel conductive wa . Rubber apart and she p to thus pre keep differe rs and Anodes set up. nt vent a can be are pro galvan metals mount The mo tecting ed ic cell , like this directly to being st com galvan the item galvan mon wa rudder ic ic they and pro by using corrosion bel y to preven there to series table p shaft t tha ow protec from a sacrificial ano the water or t. By usi n the metal alu line metal mi it des. Th that is up a gal nium anodes ng zinc, magne is ese are is furthe , ma van you are sium de r ic cel down on the anode the and you l between the setting All metals have a place up the higher com r The sac im table. ponent por rificial galvanic series s, but ma tant under more ‘noble’ they water king sur table they are, the e that of the list is gold, the are said to be. Top Good bondin . Down towards g is esse platinum and graphite ntial wh the metals en usin the bottom of the table g hul mount , and here we find ed ano l are said to be ‘base’ So des um. alumini magnesium, zinc and different metals, two have we where stainless steel such as a 316 grade propeller, prop shaft and a bronze in together ed connect which are electrical current such a way that an the act of can pass between them, electrolyte 14 g the boat into an launchin

Preven ting ga lvanic corrosi on

page 26 Project Boat

all metals G alvanic corrosion canaaffect On boat there are submerged in water. components below lots of expensive metal may if left unprotected, the waterline that, ly n that may ultimate corrosio ce experien more than scrap. render them nothing protect them?

What can you do to

nic Corrosion?

What is Galva n happens when two

Galvanic corrosio are in close different metals, which ed other and connect proximity to each d in an electrolyte. electrically, are immerse is the water on te With boats, the electroly floating. is it which

MG Duff

Mayland 16

December 2014

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page 62 Second Look

1983 Seamaster 820

Decemb

er 201 4

PRACTICAL

p12

Galvanic Corrosion

page 88 Look What I Saw

p70

Readers photos

page 90 Appendix

Winterising your boat

p46

GOSPORT

Destination Guide PRACTICAL

p30

p74

Sealine F37

CLASSIC CRUISER GUIDE GUIDE CLASSIC CRUISER Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

Preparing for winter BOAT TEST

Jeanneau Merry Fisher 695 Marlin

5

NEWS Guernsey £110m Harbour plan A new project that is set to transform the harbours of Guernsey has been hit with criticism from local boaters.

According to Guernsey’s Public Services Minister Paul Luxon “St Peter Port Harbour is a 19th century structure using 20th century practices to deal with 21st century demands”. Plans include a new cruise ship dock along QEII’s East Pier, a locked cargo dock at St Sampsons, harbour dredging, maintenance of key navigation marks, and a new terminal, port control building and customs shed at St Peter Port. For leisure boaters there will be a marina facilities upgrade and pontoon refurbishment. Public talks have begun regarding the 10-year project, which was announced in January 2013. The plans are to be brought before the States of Guernsey by spring 2015. £30m of funding is expected to come from the government while Guernsey Harbours, the body responsible for St Peter Port and St Sampsons harbours, is looking to raise £80m by ‘aligning certain areas with market based pricing’. It is looking to introduce harbour dues for bulk cargo, cruise liner landing charges and controversially, increase charges for the 2000 local moorings. Officials have compared the harbour’s current charging model to that of other ports, and we are to understand from our sources that these are marinas on the south coast of England with 24-hour all-tide access and facilities. This has caused upset among local boaters with charges rumored to be 100% more. At the time of publication Motorboat Owner has been unable to get a comment from Guernsey Harbours regarding the proposals and how they might effect visitors. You can find out more about the plans at www.myharbours.gg

River Crouch marina for sale

Bridgemarsh Marina on the River Crouch in Essex is currently for sale, via Dedman Gray, for a price of £1,950,000. The marina was established in 1927 and has been in the same hands for over 30 years. It has boatyard lifting facilities, access four hours either side of high water, and is licenced for 195 berths. The site is described as approximately 17 acres plus saltings and river bed. The sale also includes a large fishing lake stocked with carp. You can view the listing at www.dedmangray.co.uk

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December 2014

If you any have news from your region, please email us at

editorial@motorboatowner.co.uk

New breakwater for Yarmouth Harbour The Harbour Commissioners at Yarmouth are looking to raise £10m to build a new harbour breakwater. The existing breakwater, which is constructed with old railway line and sleepers, is nearing the end of its useful life, so a replacement breakwater is required. The new breakwater is expected to be taller, of rock construction, and will be located 75 metres further north into the Solent than the current one. As the consultation period begins, the commissioners expect the project will take five years and hope it will bring protection and industry growth to the harbour.

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7

NEWS New marina plan for Queenborough Creek After a local council pulled out of the 2010 plans to regenerate Kent’s Queenborough Creek into a marina, local residents have joined together to drive forward an alternative and ‘cost-effective’ marina for the creek. The plan details a 200-berth marina with a tidal gate. The floating pontoon moorings will be run by the Queenborough Harbour Trust and will offer direct access to shore, with dedicated visitor berthing on the Town Quay.

Not only will the lock gate give flood protection, but locals say a marina will create public interest and a focus for the town and Isle of Sheppey. They also hope to offer boat storage ashore and attract new marine businesses to Queenborough. Much of the marina would be developed on the Southside of the creek, specifically on land at Klondike and Chalk Wharf ’s, previously used for heavy industrial operations such as the glue works. Here they also hope to develop a slipway, boat storage and marina services. The cost of the development is estimated to be £5.5 million.

A marina plan identifies a demand for moorings in the area, ‘there is currently a two year waiting list for berths alongside the Town Quay in the creek. The BMF and another marine consultant commissioned by the Queens Harbour Trust have indicated that the demand for berths nationally and locally, here in the Medway and Swale, has exceeded the numbers of berths available’ it states. Planners are urging the Swale Council to back the project. The consultation period is now open until the 15th December and supporters can email planningpolicy@swale.gov.uk

Falmouth Coastguard takes up Devon operations

On the 1st of November, Falmouth Coastguard Operations Centre (CGOC), took over duties from Brixham Coastguard, which is now closed. This move forms part of a shake up and restructure of operations. Coastguard officials insist ‘There will be no reduction in rescue resources. The availability of Coastguard Rescue Teams, lifeboats, rescue helicopters and other rescue units will be unaffected’. The Brixham Town Council hope to turn the Brixham Coastguard building into a community centre. Boaters are advised that the VHF callsign for Devonshire sea areas is now ‘Falmouth Coastguard’. Alternatively you can dial 999 and ask for the Coastguard. Existing telephone numbers will be in use until a new national number is introduced in 2015.

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December 2014

If you any have news from your region, please email us at

editorial@motorboatowner.co.uk

Inland licence fees announced According to the Canal & River Trust, private boat licence fees will rise in April 2015 by 1.6%, in line with inflation. In 2016, fees will increase by no more than inflation. The trust is responsible for 2000 miles of inland waterways in the UK and say “This is in line with the commitment given by us in 2012 to limit boat licence fee increases, for three years from 2014, to inflation only”. See www.canalrivertrust.org.uk

Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

Medway & Swale Conference

The Medway & Swale Boating Association (MSBA) will be holding a 1-day conference on Saturday 7th March 2015 at the St George’s Centre, Chatham. 300 guests are invited to listen to speakers from the RYA, plus the local cruising enthusiasts and writers Dick Holness, Nick Ardley and Paul Thorpe will be talking about boating on the Medway/Swale estuary. Also, plans will be revealed for a return to Powerboat racing on the river Medway. Tickets cost £15, or £12 if purchased before 14th February and include all refreshments.

Visit www.msba.org.uk for details.

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INBOX

@

STAR LETTER

Fairline 19

I recently bought myself a Fairline Weekender 19 for restoration and am trying to find out as much as I can about the original fittings and specifications to assist with the work. I am retired and am a newcomer to this pastime.

As a teenager I sailed 12ft gaff rigged sailing dinghies so have a basic knowledge of seacraft. I have just subscribed to your magazine and found the Mayland project informative. I wondered if any of the back issues would have similar articles and how these can be downloaded. Richard McMaster The Editor replies: Did you you know that Fairline restored a 19 Weekender a few years back? I am sure they would be happy to help you with information where they can. There are lots of interior and exterior images of 19’s on the internet. Try searching google images and you should be able to build a good picture of how the boat looked originally. Just remember that many boats will have been modified over the years. Regarding back issues, once you have logged in you should get a ‘back issues’ option on the top tool bar. Click on this and you can download PDF’s of the last year’s worth of issues. Best of luck with the boat and do keep in touch.

Plenty to do in Plymouth

During the beautiful spell of weather in July, we decided to head west. After visiting Dartmouth we visited Sutton Harbour in Plymouth. Ex-hurricane Bertha put paid to visits to other ports along the coast, but we were quite happy tucked up inside Plymouth harbour, as there is so much to do there. We walked around the historic buildings in the Barbican and took advantage of the shopping opportunities. We cycled Drakes Trail along the River Plym, followed by dinner with a great view of the Sound at Gary Rhodes Dome. There is also the National Marine Aquarium, the Plymouth Gin Distillery and the Merchants House Museum. We also arranged a factory tour with Princess to see where our V39 was built. After studying your guide to Salcombe, I thought I’d just let you know that there is plenty to encourage fellow boaters ti head a bit further west and spend some time in Plymouth. Penny Rawle Claire replies: I really like Plymouth too and it is on my list for a destination guide.

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December 2014

email:

editorial@motorboatowner.co.uk

Renapur test

In the August edition I read an article about treating leather sailing boots (with Renapur balsam). I wish to point out that if someone has paid for expensive boots they may be lined with a gortex type material which is waterproof and allows them to “breath”. However if you were to be tempted to treat the leather uppers with something that makes them totally waterproof it may also stop the leather from being breathable so you would have destroyed the characteristics of the boot that you paid a lot of money for. I think this is worth pointing out to readers. I am not saying that Renapur Balsam would do this, I have no idea, and if it does not then this may well be another selling point for the product. Dave Stewart Reply from Renapur: “Renapur Leather Balsam contains natural oils and waxes which together feed, nourish and protect leather as well as restoring colour. As we say on all our packaging ‘It will also help to waterproof leather’ ie it will help leather resist water ingress. It does not totally waterproof leather. It does not affect a Goretex lining in any way and the leather will still breath.” Robin Aspinall MD Editor replies: Thank you very much for your letter Dave, and for your reply Robin. We have been very happy with the performance of the product.

Thank you Motorboat Owner

I just want to say what a fantastic publication ‘Motorboat Owner’ is. It really is a breath of fresh air for there to be a boating publication which talks about real boating, and real users, with real practical tips, and not just focusing on the higher end of the boating market. I always look forward for each edition to be published and read it with great interest. It covers a wide range of topics which are very pertinent to the ‘normal’ boater. Keep up the good work; I have taken away the information found in many of your articles and used it in my boating. Thank you again for bringing such a good read to the boating world. Marcus Gould Editor replies: Thank you Macus, it is good to know that we are hitting the spot, and we’ll make sure we continue to cater for the ‘normal’ boater.

Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

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PRACTICAL

ADVICE

Galvanic Corrosion

G

alvanic corrosion can affect all metals submerged in water. On a boat there are lots of expensive metal components below the waterline that, if left unprotected, may experience corrosion that may ultimately render them nothing more than scrap.

What can you do to protect them?

What is Galvanic Corrosion?

Galvanic corrosion happens when two different metals, which are in close proximity to each other and connected electrically, are immersed in an electrolyte.

With boats, the electrolyte is the water on which it is floating.

All metals have a place on the galvanic series table. The higher up the table they are, the more ‘noble’ they are said to be. Top of the list is gold, platinum and graphite. Down towards the bottom of the table the metals are said to be ‘base’, and here we find magnesium, zinc and aluminium. So where we have two different metals, such as a 316 grade stainless steel prop shaft and a bronze propeller, which are connected together in such a way that an electrical current can pass between them, the act of launching the boat into an electrolyte

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December 2014

Electron Flow

(sea or fresh water) immediately creates Anode Cathode a galvanic cell. In this cell the more noble metal, the stainless steel, becomes the cathode while the base metal, the bronze, positive ions becomes an anode. This causes a small electrical current to flow between the negative ions metals, from the anode to the cathode, Electrolyte and as this current flows the anode, our A galvanic cell is created where two dissimilar bronze propeller, will start to corrode. Salt metals, electrically connected, are immersed in water is a more effective electrolyte than an electrolyte fresh water, which means that galvanic you switch the appliance on you are in corrosion is a bigger problem for those on the coast. Having said that, fresh water effect, electrically connecting the cathode and anode and a current will flow. Once based boats are far from immune, and all the anode is fully corroded, the battery is boats, wherever they are kept, should be flat. protected against the effects of galvanic Obviously with a requirement of an corrosion. The further apart the different electrolyte, it is often thought that galvanic metals are on the galvanic series table, corrosion is only a problem for bits of the greater the risk of corrosion, and the boat that are below the waterline. the more important it becomes to take While underwater components are our effective steps to prevent it. A common example of two very different metals being biggest concern, it is not uncommon to see examples of it above the waterline, used together is aluminium propellers often where an aluminium component on stainless steel prop shafts as found in out drives and outboards. These are often is fixed to, or with, a stainless steel item. electrically isolated thanks to the rubber bush within the (Noble Metals) Cathode (Least Active) Platinum Gold propeller, but this isn’t always Stainless Steel (316) Monel Metal the case. While for boaters Stainless Steel (304) Silver a galvanic cell is usually a Nickel Aluminium Bronze Alloys Lead bad thing, sometimes we Tin bronzes (commonly called gunmetal) Copper use this chemical reaction Tin Brass favourably. Disposable Aluminium bronze Nickel batteries are, in fact, small Cast Iron Mild steel galvanic cells. Inside you Aluminium alloys Zinc will find two metals, often (Base Metals) Anode (Most Active) Magnesium zinc and manganese, and an electrolyte, which is usually The galvanic series table shows where various metals sit on an alkaline solution. When a galvanic scale and how ‘noble’ or ‘base’ the metal is Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

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PRACTICAL

In these cases, rain water, salt spray and even condensation or humidity provide the electrolyte. If you have ever battled

to remove a stainless steel bolt from an aluminium deck fitting you can blame galvanic corrosion for your troubles.

Preventing galvanic corrosion

The simplest form of protection is a good coating of paint. This stops the metal coming into contact with the electrolyte and breaks the galvanic cell. Unfortunately you cannot rely on paint alone, especially below the waterline where the paint layer can be easily damaged. Isolating the metals from each other is another way of preventing galvanic corrosion. Rubber bushes or non conductive washers and gaskets will help to keep different metals apart and thus prevent a galvanic cell being set up.

The most common way to prevent galvanic corrosion below the waterline is by using sacrificial anodes. These are made from a metal that is further down the

Anodes can be mounted directly to the item they are protecting, like this rudder and prop shaft

galvanic series table than the metal it is there to protect. By using zinc, magnesium or aluminium anodes, you are setting up a galvanic cell between the sacrificial anode and your important underwater components, but making sure that the Good bonding is essential when using hull mounted anodes MG Duff

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December 2014

expensive bits are always the cathode and thus, not going to corrode.

For a sacrificial anode to do its job, it must be electrically bonded to the items that it is protecting. With items such as trim tabs, bow thrusters, propeller shafts, rudders, outboards and outdrives, this is achieved by bolting the anode directly to the item in question. For items such as propellers, and anything else without an anode fixed directly to it, you can fix one to the hull, and bond it internally using electrical wire. It is sometimes quoted that the anodes must be in line of sight of the item it is protecting. This isn’t completely true, but as it needs to be in close proximity, it makes sense to fit it where it can ‘see’ the item it is protecting.

You can bolster your boats protection by using a hanging anode. As the name suggests this is literally hung over the side of the boat in the area of the sterngear that you are looking to protect. Remember

Hull anodes work best when they can ‘see’ the item they are protecting, although this one seems to be working fine fitted to the transom

though, that to work the hanging anode will needs to be electrically connected to these underwater items so it should be hung using a conductive material, such as stainless steel wire, with the inboard end connected to the item that it is protecting.

Anodes are typically made from three different metals, all located down at the bottom of the galvanic table. Magnesium is the best material to use in fresh water, zinc is the right choice for salt water and aluminium is best for boats moored in

Supplementary anodes can be added by hanging them near the sterngear, but they must be electrically bonded to the sterngear inside the boat. This boat had three hanging over the back Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

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PRACTICAL

Sterndrive anodes can wear quickly. Adding additional anodes, either on the transom or directly to the drive, is worth considering

brackish water. Get this wrong and the consequences can become expensive.

A Magnesium anode will suffer an accelerated wear rate if immersed in salt water, whereas a Zinc or aluminium anode can become coated in an oxide in fresh water, which will stop it working, even after returning to salt water. Anode experts at MG Duff, recommend changing anodes for the correct type if you are spending a prolonged period in a different water type.

The recommendations are to change Zinc or aluminium to Magnesium if you will be on fresh water for more than two weeks, and magnesium to zinc if going from fresh to salt for more than seven days.

As well as choosing the right base material, it is important to make sure that

the composition is correct. It is said that impurities such as iron in a zinc anode, can render the anode ineffective. As an end user, the best way of ensuring the quality of your anode is to buy from a reputable source. Cheap anodes of an unknown origin could prove to be a false economy. You should also make sure that as well as having the right material, you also have the right quantity of sacrificial anodes. If you have too little you may find that they corrode away before your next scheduled lift, leaving your stern gear vulnerable. For shaft drive boats MG Duff produce a guide for hull anode sizing based upon the size of the props.

For example they recommend a single 2kg anode per 500mm diameter prop. These

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December 2014

can be assisted with additional anodes on the shafts, rudders and trim tabs.

Sterndrive and outboard boats are easier because they are designed to be fitted with an anode kit that should provide the right amount of sacrificial material for the season. If you find that you are suffering an accelerated wear rate on a sterndrive or outboard boat, you can bolster the system with an additional hull anode mounted Test that your anodes are correctly bonded using below the waterline on the transom and a multimeter set to measure resistance bonded internally to the transom mount.

This is definitely worth considering if you are changing stock aluminium propellers If you are finding that your anodes are for ones made form stainless steel, which not corroding fast enough, or even at all, is higher up the galvanic series table. this also indicates a problem. It is possible On a correctly specified system, anodes that they are not electrically bonded to should last a whole season and be between the item that they are protecting, so you 50% and 75% worn at the end of the year. should test them for conductivity. With a If yours are wearing faster you should multimeter set to the Ohms position, put consider if this is because there is simply one probe onto the anode and the other too little sacrificial material, or if there is onto the stern gear that it is protecting. an external force at work such as a stray Zero Ohms would be perfect but anything current. Regular inspection of the anodes up to around 0.5 Ohms is acceptable. If is important, and always replace before the resistance is more than this, the anode they are reduced to around 25% of their won’t be working as well as it could and original size and weight. if you have an open circuit, it won’t be working at all. In this case, if the anode in question is bolted to the item directly, such as a trim tab, rudder or stern drive, remove it and clean up the contact area to ensure a good metal to metal contact before refitting and checking the resistance. If the anode is bolted through the hull you will need to check the internal bonding. It is possible that the bonding wires used are of insufficient size, they could be suffering corrosion, or may Anodes should be replaced when they are between 50% and 75% corroded simply be missing or broken.

Motorboat Owner Š Digital Marine Media Ltd

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PRACTICAL

Internal bonding should be done with a good quality copper cable, ideally of around 6mm2 in size. The terminals must be free of corrosion and fully tightened down onto the anode stud. A prop shaft can be included in this system by using a product such as the Electro Eliminator, which has electrical brushes to make contact with the shaft. You should bridge any insulated shaft coupling and also connect it up with your engine block and gearbox. You should not bond ferrous metals into the same circuit as non-ferrous metals, so any steel items below the waterline will need their own anode bolted directly to them.

Whatever type, or material, of anodes

you fit, you must make sure that they are not painted over when antifouling.

Painted anodes simply will not work.

Another tip worth thinking about if you are on a drying mooring, is that anodes that are out of the water will also not work. If your boat sits on the mud at low water, it is likely that the lower parts of the hull and stern gear are still immersed in an electrolyte in the form of a small pool of captive water. If the anodes are all positioned higher up the hull and out of the water, they will be doing nothing to protect you sterngear for a large part of the time. Ensure in these cases that anodes are fitted low enough to work, even when the tide is out.

Hull materials

Fibreglass boats are easy to protect. A hull anode or two, plus anodes fixed directly to items such as bow thruster, trim tabs, shafts, sterndrives and rudders are all that is needed. Wooden boats are almost identical, except that you should not fix magnesium anodes directly to wood. On a wooden boat used in fresh water you should fit a magnesium shaft anode plus individual magnesium anodes to trim tabs, rudders and keels.

Steel hulled boats need whole hull protection so you need to work out the surface area of the hull below the waterline.

Once you know this you can fix a suitable quantity of magnesium, aluminium or zinc hull anodes directly to the hull by either bolting or welding them in place.

Steel vessels require anodes to protect the hull and sterngear 18

December 2014

Engines Boat engines are made from a mixture of metals, and also contain an electrolyte in the shape of the cooling water. This means that they are also susceptible to galvanic corrosion and require protection against it. Some engines are fitted with small pencil anodes that bolt into the block and/or the heat exchangers. These also need replacing every year. Not all engines have them, so check your user manual, or consult your dealer to find out if, where and how many are fitted to your engine.

External forces

If your boat is floating on the water and suitably protected against galvanic corrosion by the correct use of sacrificial anodes, nothing else should have any influence over how your underwater components corrode because your boat is not electrically bonded to anything.

Engines are often protected with ‘pencil’ anodes that bolt into the engine block or heat exchangers. Do not use thread sealing tape, otherwise you may isolate the anode

Problems may occur when you are plugged into shorepower because bonding between the shore power earth and your boat’s DC negative will mean that your boat becomes bonded to anything else in the vicinity that is also connected to the shorepower earth system. This could mean

A galvanic isolator is a wise addition for boats left permanently connected to shorepower.

Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

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PRACTICAL

other boats or even metal work on the pontoons or marina walls. If, for example, both you and the steel hulled boat next door are plugged into shorepower, and the boat next door has poor bonding, worn anodes or even no anodes at all, the steel hull may become the cathode to your anodes. The accelerated wear in your anodes may go unnoticed and, once gone, the next metal in the galvanic series table may be your aluminium propellers or sterndrives. These effectively become the anode for next doors boat hull and will start to corrode with expensive results.

The easiest way to protect your boat from this is to not leave shorepower plugged in. If you really need to be permanently connected, you should ensure that you fit

This sterndrive has corroded right through the gear case due to galvanic, or electrolytic, action

a galvanic isolator. This will disconnect the earth to stop the small current flows associated with galvanic corrosion, but will still offer protection against electrical faults if required.

What about stray electrical currents?

Galvanic and electrolytic corrosion are terms often confused and used in place of each other. While galvanic corrosion is driven by the difference in the potential of two different metals immersed in an electrolyte, electrolytic corrosion is driven by an external power source such as stray currents from the boats electrical system.

Currents formed by galvanic corrosion are usually very small, and ????????????????????????????????????????????????? ????????????????????????????? thus corrosion is slow, predictable and therefore easy to protect against, electrolytic corrosion is unpredictable with currents that can be much greater.

This can lead to rapid and significant corrosion problems in a very short

Is this loose wire in the bilge water live? If it is, big problems may not be far away.

time frame. Stray current will do what comes naturally and look to return to earth via the path of least resistance.

This means that the current will leak into the water through a hull fitting

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December 2014

M.Davis

or sterngear. Because the currents are greater than those associated with galvanic corrosion, the normal rules regarding noble and anodic metals can be overcome meaning that a metal normally least affected by galvanic corrosion can become the anode and start to corrode.

Stray currents are usually caused by poor wiring or by wiring running in the bilges and immersed in water. Regular inspection of the boats electrical system is the key to avoiding electrolytic corrosion. Look for any poor or abraded insulation and ensure that wires, and particularly connections, are run away from any bilge water. If you suspect electrolytic corrosion it is probably best to employ the services of a marine

This boat’s problems look more serious than galvanic. Could stray currents be at work?

electrician who should be able to trace and fix the source of a stray current on your boat. As always, prevention is better than cure, so ensure that any electrical equipment that is fitted to your boat is installed correctly using good quality materials.

Further information M G Duff ’s website www.mgduff.co.uk is a good source of

information regarding the correct selection of anodes. You can also download the latest version of their very useful Product Guide and Cathodic Protection Handbook.

Sources of Anodes For a wide supply of good quality anodes at competitive prices from leading manufactures, including M G Duff, visit www.anodesdirect.co.uk

Galvanic isolators, from £76 from Safeshore Marine www.safeshoremarine.com

Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

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Q&A

Your Questions Answered

Diesel heating not firing

Q With winter looming I decided to try out

my Eberspacher diesel heating. After an initial startup, where the fan ran and the fuel pump ticked, it shuts down before ever blowing out any warm air. Am I looking at an expensive overhaul, or could it be something simple?

A Hopefully it may be an easy fix. There are two common faults that can result

in your symptoms. The first is fuel starvation. You should be able to check this by disconnecting the outlet fuel pipe from the pump and see if it is pumping fuel when it ticks. The second is low voltage. Diesel heaters require quite a lot of power when starting and if the cable size is underspecified, or the battery is a bit flat, they do sometimes fail to start. A way of testing this is to try starting it with your battery charger connected. This usually brings the battery voltage up to 14 volts, which helps overcome any voltage drop in the cable and of course puts power back into a flat battery. If it starts, you know you have an electrical issue and, if that turns out to be caused by a voltage drop in underspecified wiring, I would get it upgraded as soon as possible. If you can rule out fuel and electrics, you probably need to delve into the unit itself and maybe look at a service or overhaul. In a worst-case scenario, the ECU could be faulty which, although expensive, is fixable.

Metal letters for boat name

Q I have just renamed our Fairline and need

to get some new stickers for the transom. I have seen a few boats with mirror like names, I think I even saw these on your control boat during your summer cruise in company. Who supplies these, as I really fancy something a bit blingy?

A You are correct. We fitted the polished stainless steel letters to the back of April

Fool just before we set off on our Normandy cruise. These were bought from company called Tech Stainless. They are based in Sheffield but offer an internet ordering facility.

From as little as ÂŁ1.99 a letter they are not particularly expensive, especially if you have a short boat name. If you want something really blingy though, check out their illuminated stainless steel boat names.

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December 2014

If you have a question, email us at

editorial@motorboatowner.co.uk

Ford engine running cool

Q My Ford transit marinised engine has recently started to run cooler than usual. It would typically run at around 85°C, but now doesn’t go much above 70°C. I know I should be grateful it’s not the other way around, but is this likely to be a problem and what could be causing it?

A Engines are designed to run at their optimum temperature, and 85°C is fairly

typical for a diesel. Over cooling won’t cause any immediate problems, but it is not something that should be left unfixed, as long term it may affect your fuel consumption and increase engine wear. First thing to check is that the gauge is really telling you the truth. A faulty sender unit or gauge could be giving you a false reading. If you have access to a laser thermometer you could check the actual temperature of the engine against what the gauge is telling you. If the engine really is too cool, the next step would be to replace the thermostat, as it is likely that it is not closing properly and allowing a constant flow of cooling water through the engine.

Corrosion spray for engine

Q As part of my winterising plans I was

going to spray the engine, and everything in the engine room, with some WD40 to help protect it. Someone has since told me that this is not a good idea but didn’t explain why.

Can you shed any light?

A The WD in the name stands for water

displacement so I can’t imagine it would do any harm on mechanical objects, although I have heard it said that it is best kept away from some electrical components. Personally I have never used WD40 for this purpose as I think there are better products on the market for keeping corrosion at bay in an engine room. Duck Oil, ACF 50 and Quicksilver Corrosion Guard are all worth a look. Having said that, giving all your mechanicals a coat of any of these, including WD40, is better than leaving them at the mercy of damp, salt laden air.

Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

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Q&A

Your Questions Answered

Project boat or walk away?

Q I have recently been offered an old Fjord

24 that has been left unloved on its marina berth for years. I was told that it possibly hasn’t moved in as much as 10 years. As you would expect the cover is in tatters, the boat is filthy and there is water in the bilge, although not enough to cause a problem to the engine.

I can get this boat for very little money but am Unloved boats, like this Sealine 22, wondering what horrors may be awaiting me. could prove to be a money pit

A I am afraid I would suggest running as fast as you can in the opposite

direction, unless you are specifically looking for a project. If the boat has been sitting in the water for 10 years I would suspect that the outdrive is going to be little more than scrap. Even without direct water damage, an engine that has sat for ten years, almost certainly without being winterized, is bound to be riddled with problems. Add in the cost of replacing all the other bits that will be ruined by years of neglect, such as cockpit upholstery and interior soft furnishings, as well as the potential to find rotten wood in both structural and non structural locations, and you will probably be better off financially, buying one that has been well maintained for the going rate. If you can get the boat for free it may be worth a punt, especially if you happen to have a suitable engine and drive going spare and somewhere to do the boat up without racking up expensive storage fees, but as much as I love to see boats being brought back to life I have to say think long and hard before taking on one like this.

Chrysler Nissan engine manual and parts

Q I have an RLM that is fitted with 6 cylinder Nissan Chrysler diesel engines

mated to Volvo Penta drives. I have tried my local Nissan dealer for spares but he had never heard of the engines. Any idea where I can go for spare parts?

Your engine is probably a Nissan SD33, which was also used in vehicles such as the Nissan Patrol. If you need engine parts, your Nissan dealer should be able to help once he knows this. The difficulty may be finding marinising parts. There seems to be more activity in the US regarding these engines and there does seem >>>

A

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December 2014

If you have a question, email us at

editorial@motorboatowner.co.uk

to be a supply of such things as manifolds and heat exchangers available over there, albeit at quite a high price. There is also a dedicated Nissan Chrysler sub forum on Marineengine. com, which should be a useful source of information and knowledge. In the meantime I did manage to find a workshop manual for the SD33 online and have forwarded you a copy.

Which outboard?

Q I am looking to get a new outboard for my tender

but I need it to be as light as possible as I’m finding it increasingly difficult lifting engines on and off as I get older. My old engine, which I lost when I dropped it into the water mainly due to its weight, was a 4hp two stroke Mariner. I was looking at the Suzuki DF2.5 when I came across some brand new but cheap 3.5hp motors on eBay. As they are two stroke they weigh less than the Suzuki, and I get a whole extra horse power.

I have never heard of them, are they any good?

A At 12.5kg I can see why you would be drawn

to these motors but I am not convinced about the legality of these being offered for sale within the EU. Since new emission regulations were introduced in 2006, small two stroke outboards were effectively banned, as the big engine manufacturers were unable to make the engines meet the requirements. Unless the manufacturer of these new engines has found a way around that, and with a recommended fuel to oil ratio as low as 30:1, I can’t see how they could. I suspect that they should not be offered for sale to private individuals within the EU. On that basis I would suggest either continuing down the road of getting the Suzuki DF2.5, which is the lightest portable four stroke available, or look for a really good used Mariner/Mercury 3.3hp two stroke. These will give you almost the same power that you had, but at a weight of just 13kg, which is the same as the 2.5hp Suzuki.

Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

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Motorboat Owner

£1K

CHALLENGE

PROJECT Mayland 16

T

hey say that you can’t teach an old dog new tricks, but this month I am living proof that this is not always true. Just a month ago you may have remembered that I said that when it came to sewing, my skills started and stopped at sewing on a button. Well that is no longer the case. I am now an expert in reupholstering. Maybe expert is a pushing things a bit too far, but my transformation from novice to not-so-novice is nothing less than remarkable and it is mostly down to a one day boat upholstery course I took

last month down in Gosport.

If you have been following our project boat you’ll be aware that we need to make a new canopy, we need to make cabin cushions from scratch, we need to recover the cockpit cushions and I needed to fix the rotten ply, worn out foam and torn vinyl of the helmsman’s seat. To have all this done professionally would probably have blown our entire £1000 budget, and then some, so we were faced with having to follow the DIY route. The oneday course, run by marine upholstery

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December 2014

“To have cushions and a canopy made would have blown our budget”

and for anyone that is contemplating doing their own upholstery, but has no prior experience, I would say it will be the best £149 you could spend. I haven’t taken the cost of the course off of our project boat budget as I see it as more of a life company Hawke House, was the first skill, and something that I will use again step. It wasn’t quite the practical handsand again and, therefore, not specific to on day that I was hoping for, but as it this project. turned out, far more must have sunk At the end of the day each participant in than I realized. The course was run comes away with a starter kit with some in Hawke House’s workshop and, with useful tools and samples to enable them eight participants, the day comprised to make a cushion. The kit includes the of us watching the process of the expert very useful metal bars that our instructor, measuring, templating, designing and Alan, uses for measuring cushion depth making a boat cushion. The tips that were and marking out seam allowances. Alan passed on were pure gold, and provided doesn’t seem to like using tape measures exactly the sort of information needed and has a technique for marking out to instill enough confidence to go away and cutting with barely a reference to a and have a go yourself. One tip that will measuring device. The best thing to do stick with me is to make sure that your after a course like this is just to have a go material is cut and used taking the pile as soon as possible and that’s exactly what into account. The same fabric viewed from I did. The next day I got to work on the opposite directions can look very different, helm seat, and even used the free vinyl as perfectly demonstrated by our course samples to make the new covers. leader. The course costs £149 per person First I started by producing a new

The same material can look very different viewed from different angles. Cutting foam was one of the lessons on the upholstery course Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

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The helm seat comprised two ply backed cushions, both of which needed complete replacement

plywood base, as the old stuff was rotten and delaminated. I then shaped a piece of two inch thick foam. The foam was the only thing I had to actually buy for this particular part of the boats overhaul, as I used some spare ply that was inside the boat when we bought it and the vinyl samples that came with our course kit.

Next came the tricky task of making the cover. Using the techniques from the course I actually surprised myself by how confident I was at this stage, especially bearing in mind that I had never used a sewing machine in my life before.

It is often quoted

that to do this kind of work with heavy materials you must use an industrial sewing machine. Our expert confirmed that this is not the case, and a domestic machine will work just as well, albeit a little slower. His tips were to ensure you use a new, slightly heavier duty, needle, keep it lubricated with some silicone spray, again included in our freebie pack, and use a good quality UV and rot proof thread. Luckily we already had some suitable polyester thread so, after a few practice runs on some off cut material, I took my carefully produced components and started to stitch them together.

Because my vinyl samples were actually two different colours I have ended up with two tone cushions but, even if I say so myself, the result is not too shabby. The best part of it though, My first sewing machine experience and I am rather pleased with the result. If I can do it, anyone can.

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December 2014

Claire used the old canopy side panel as a template. She added strips of clear PVC to the seams to strengthen the fixing points

was that the helm seat reupholster job had only cost the price of the two foam pieces.

From the male perspective I am probably not alone in never having undertaken this kind of work before, but someone else once told me that if you are practical, and used to making stuff with your hands, sewing is actually not so different. Do you know what? I have to agree. Measuring, cutting, joining and producing something out of material is very similar to other, more traditionally manly pastimes, such as wood and metal work. Well that’s what I’m going to tell the lads down the pub after they have read this.

I still have a long way to go with the upholstery, and will continue to work on cushions for both the cockpit and cabin over the next couple of months but, in the meantime, Claire has started work on the canopy. The material and window vinyl we ordered last month has arrived and, using the old canopy as a template, Claire has already produced one of the three panels.

The material was 1.5m wide on the roll and £5.49 per metre. We have ordered 10 metres, which should, as long as we are careful, be enough to do the whole canopy. The clear plastic window PVC was just £14 for enough material to put a window in each side panel, and one in the

aft section. Like the upholstery I think this is another job that will while away many an autumnal evening. The 12 man hours we have spent this month just flew by, and there is still much to do.

So apart from slaving away over a hot sewing machine next month, I’m planning on taking a look at the two small forward facing cabin windows. Both are crazed, one is cracked, and they both leak a little.

The other job on the list for this month is to look at the cockpit floor. When we bought the boat it had some rotten plywood panels. These will need replacing and I want to make a small sump area at the transom so I can mount an automatic bilge pump.

Motorboat Owner

£1K

CHALLENGE

This month’s spend

Canopy material £54.90 Canopy window PVC £14 Foam £7.50

Monthly Total £76.40

Total to date: £780.35 Budget remaining: £219.65 Time spent this month 12 hours

Total time to date

40 hours 15 mins

Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

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CLASSIC CRUISERS

a complete guide to the best boats on the used market

Sealine F37 T here is something about a flybridge boat. The upper helm delivers wind in the hair boating at sea, an excellent vantage point when mooring, and somewhere to relax and soak up the sunshine when in port. The lower helm offers a welcome refuge when the weather isn’t so kind. Admittedly when boating in the UK, sunnier days may be few and far between and you will have to be able to dress for every eventuality, but what these boats give is a choice. In the current market where it seems the hardtop sportscruiser is king, there is still a lot to

be said for a flybridge boat, particularly a shaftdriven one. The Sealine F37 is probably one of the most popular sub-40ft flybridge cruisers available and, if your budget is in the region of £100k, the F37 is one to add to a used boat search list. Large enough for extended cruising, and small enough to be easily handled, the F37 was one of the many jewels in Sealine’s crown.

Sealine started building flybridge cruisers in the early 80’s with the successful introduction of the 30, which became the 305. As the company grew, it expanded its flybridge range and, in

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December 2014

Built 330 approx 1999-2009 Prices then £177,449 (2001) Prices now £80,000-£170,000 Length 37ft 7in / 11.46m Beam 12ft 5in / 3.78m Draught 3ft 1in / 0.94m Air Draught 14ft / 4.27m Fuel 220 gallons / 1000 litres Water 86 gallons / 389 litres Displacement 7900kg approx

1991, along came the 350 Statesman, a 37-foot flybridge. The boat provided 6 berths with two separate cabins, a spacious flybridge and interior helm. It was later renamed the 360 Statesman and, when Sealine rebranded its ranges again in 1998, it became known as the F36. After a significant exterior restyle the F37 emerged in 1999. Sealine’s 90’s rounded bowsprit had been banished to reveal a more relaxed, sculpted and curvacious boat. The F37 was identical to its predecessors in terms of layout, but its additional length came from the larger

curved bathing platform.

Sadly, sub 40ft shaftdriven flybridge boats are now becoming a thing of the past. New shaftdrive flybridge boats from British builders, such as Princess and Fairline start at 43ft and 42ft respectively.

Back in the day, the F37’s closest rivals were the Fairline Phantom 38 and Princess 38, but the F37 build continued beyond both of them. The Sealine F37 also had rivals within the French ranges from Jeanneau and Beneteau with their Prestige and Antares models.

Production of the F37 finished in

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The living area is both functional and comfortable. Most saloons convert into a double berth

2009, but Sealine, with its team of new designers, was not intending to let this successful flybridge die. Drawings were released of an all-new sterndrive powered F36 in May 2011, and a design model was revealed at the 2012 Southampton Boat with the F370 moniker in anticipation

There were three forerunners to the F37. The 360 Statesman was introduced in 1993

of a 2013 launch. Sadly in the spring of 2013 Sealine went into administration.

The F370, or F380 as it is now called is currently in production under Sealine’s new owners, Hanse Yachts.

Some 330 F37’s were built over a period of 11 years and this model seems to hold its price on the used market but, with such a long build period, prices vary wildly from around £80k for older models, up to £170k for later boats.

Interior As you step through into the saloon you are greeted by the sight of high gloss wood and plump upholstery, it has a warm and cosy feel to it. Sealine interiors were finished to a very high standard, usually in

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December 2014

The master cabin has a fair sized double and plenty of storage lockers

a glossy cherry wood. The fabrics are often leather or alcantara, both very practical and a world away from Sealine’s jazzy patterns of the 1990’s.

The boat sleeps six, with a double in the forward cabin, a twin configuration in the side cabin and a convertible double in the saloon. The master forward cabin is impressive. It has a fair sized island double, a decent sized wardrobe and plenty of storage cupboards and drawers besides. The lack of hanging space is a common criticism, but if there is only two on board you can utilise the hanging space in the guest cabin. The cabin has the traditional mirror at the head of the berth and mirrored dresser on the port side, but adding a mirror inside the door of the wardrobe may be a useful addition.

The standard F37 layout has a day toilet on the port side with access from the master cabin and companionway, and a separate shower compartment with a washbasin on the starboard side, which can be accessed from the two cabins.

This is an ideal arrangement as it means there is still access to a toilet even when the shower is in use, an important feature when there is a family aboard. We know of at least one boat with a second toilet in the shower compartment.

The second cabin is cosy and practical.

Headroom encroachment from the interior helm is to be expected in this cabin, but there is still a decent amount of space to move about and get changed. The twin berth configuration is ideal for the youngsters while the infill provides a good size double for overnight guests. There is

The toilet seacocks, shower tray and battery switch for the thruster are under the cabin floor

Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

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A cosy cave.

The side cabin converts into a double

also a half height wardrobe and shallow storage under the berths. Deciding which way round you sleep may be a dilemma, but the height above the berth does decrease at the aft end so sadly sitting up in bed is not really an option.

The sunken galley comprises a practical eye level oven, either gas or microwave, a three-burner hob and a double stainless sink. On a boat with a gas oven, a small microwave can be housed in the locker

above the hob. The cutlery drawer is below the oven and opens over the sink.

This means if you accidently knock the tap while the drawer is open, your cutlery could get an unexpected wash.

The worktop is usually Corian with removable sections for the sink and hob.

There is excellent storage in the galley with large drawers below the worktop.

We particularly like the larder style longshelved drawer below the hob, which is There are two seperate compartments for toilet and shower facilities

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December 2014

The boat has a superb galley but there is a lack of worktop space when the hob and sink are in use

great for keeping your condiments close to hand. Heavier and bulkier items can be stored in the locker beneath the galley’s teak floor.

The saloon is light, airy and, most importantly, the large curved windows allow you to take in your surroundings when the boat is stationary. A large U-shaped settee provides a comfortable place for lounging and a heavy wood table provides ample, but cosy, dining space for four. On the port side there might be a sideboard with one or two pull out club chairs underneath, or a two-seater settee.

The latter offers storage and pull-out seat bases to form the infill for the saloon’s double berth. There is a large storage unit in the port corner, inside of which you may find the boats second fridge, as this was a popular optional extra. On top of this unit is an ideal position

Corian worktops are attractive and very practical

2003 £129,950 (featured) Twin Volvo KAMD43 230hp Essex Boatyards 01702 258885 www.essexboatyards.com

2000 £107,500 (featured) Twin Volvo KAMD44 260hp Ancasta Chichester 01243 885 380 www.ancasta.com

2005 £139,995 Twin Volvo D4 260hp Sea Ventures (UK) Ltd 0 1489 565444 www.sea-ventures.co.uk

2008 £169,950 Twin Volvo D4 260hp JD Yachts Weymouth 0845 8125126 www.jdyachts.com

Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

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to have a television.

Access to the saloon is through a curved sliding patio door, but taller boaters will need to watch their head as the frame is quite low. In inclement weather it’s great to be able to get out of the cold while underway, and having an inside helm position allows you to push on in comfort with everything close to hand. The F37’s inside helm position is very user friendly and some owners actually favour it, particularly on longer passages. It has a fair size double helm seat, a well laid out dash, and a useful electric window alongside the helm.

Most importantly it offers very good visibility, although owners are often quick to find fault with the under-specified windscreen wipers and demisters, features that are often overlooked until they are needed. Navigation kit is an important consideration in used boat buying, as this is costly to upgrade. These boats were originally designed to take a Raymarine RL70 sized display on the inside and outside helm positions. On the lower helm, the centre of the dash has been moulded specifically to take this square shaped plotter. Replacement for a new generation, rectangular-shaped plotter in the same position may mean going for

The raised helm is comfortable and offers great visibility, but the seat is a little ‘cosy’ for two

a small 7-inch size screen. Alternatively there is plenty of room to the left of the steering wheel for perhaps an 8-inch plotter such as the Raymarine C80 or E80, found on newer F37’s, or a modern equivalent. You may even be able to squeeze in a 12 inch display.

While checking the interior, investigate around the portholes for staining, as this may indicate leaks. Also check for the option of diesel heating, as it’s a great feature to extend your cruising season.

On Deck The one-level sidedecks are fairly wide with a raised toe rail and are enclosed On the port side there may either be a sideboard by hip-high sturdy guardrails. Although with club chairs, or a double settee with storage an extra centimetre or two would not go 36

December 2014

amiss on the deck width, they are good for crewing. The boat has chunky deck hardware and boasts two centre cleats, which are extremely useful when tying up. At the bow there is a fairly deep chain locker ideal for stowing fenders and ropes ready for sea. The anchor windlass is concealed out of sight and its chain is recessed into the deck. The F37 came with a 10kg Delta anchor and 40 metres of chain as standard.

The bathing platform has a large shallow wet locker, perfect for rope storage. Inside there are also two chocks, which fold out for tender storage, yet another neat idea from Sealine. There is also a concealed, There is rope storage and fold-out dinghy chocks pull out bathing ladder and a transom inside the bathing platform shower on the port side. a very deep locker on the starboard side, Cockpit ideal for stacking crates for those bits Sealine is well known for its practical, and bobs that you can’t do without. Two storage solutions and the cockpit on the lockers in the flybridge overhang provide F37 is no exception. A huge lazerette storage for the cockpit table and a rolledlocker under the floor offers cavernous away cockpit canopy. The gas locker is on storage. It is big enough to stow a roll away the port side and can house two 907-size tender, or house a generator. From here it camping gaz bottles. is possible to gain access to the back of the engines through a hacth in the bulkhead. Flybridge A curved bench seat will seat four The flybridge is practical while underway people in comfort and beneath it is a as well as when the boat is stationary. dedicated area for a liferaft. There is also Access is through a large sliding hatch at the top of some well-spaced moulded steps. The curvaceous exterior of the F37 is quite squat, when compared to equivalent sized flybridges. Therefore, the ascent up to the exterior helm feels a lot easier. Up top there is a double helm seat in front of the central helm position, a curved bench seat on the starboard side and the large aft sun pad has fold up back rests that provide two further forward facing seats. The helm is well laid out and The cockpit offers undercover seating but the cushion shapes hinder the access to storage the throttles fall very easily to hand. It is Motorboat Owner Š Digital Marine Media Ltd

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December 2014

also easy to stand and helm for those close quarter manoeuvres.

What the flybridge does lack is a fixed area for dining when compared to simlilar flybridge boats, like the Fairline Phantom 38. However, the helm seat does swivel to the port side to provide an open and social area, which incorporates a slot in table that is stowed in the helm seat locker. The flybridge could easily seat eight people while the boat is at a standstill. On the starboard side, between the seating, is a large deep locker, which is a great place to store the flybridge cover when underway.

Some owners have fitted a fridge unit into this locker, thus creating a very useful flybridge fridge/coolbox.

Ensure that a flybridge cover is fitted and is in a serviceable condition. A The steps up to the flybridge are certainly not as steep as some of its 38ft flybridge rivals good cover is essential, particularly as some of the cushions such as the sun pad back rests are permanently fixed down and could become waterlogged in heavy downpours. Be aware that the area beneath the backrests is also prone to fill with water. Another option is to have separate covers for the helm, seats and sunpad area so there is not one mass of cover to remove every time you want to use the boat. You will have to watch that the flybridge drains are kept clear of debris though. Investigate the flybridge cushions for water and general wear and tear, these are usually white vinyl, which can go brittle with age. Later models may have newer waterproof silvertex fabric, which is very practical and durable.

The styling of the flybridge radar mount changed very late in the F37’s build. From 2008/09 the traditional Sealine winged radar pod was replaced by a full width fibreglass arch, spanning the sunpad.

Air draft aside, one of the biggest The flybridge helm seat swivels, the sunpad has back rests and a table slots into place negatives of having a flybridge, over a Motorboat Owner Š Digital Marine Media Ltd

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The F37 was available with various engine options. The mid-range 260hps are perfectly adequate

wheelhouse or sportscruiser, is that it is another exterior area to clean. This reaffirms the importance of having a properly fitted flybridge canopy.

as each motor costs in excess of £200 to replace. Correct maintenance for these is to replace the small rubber gaiter on the trim tab end every couple of years.

These only cost around £30 a pair but are Hull and Handling often overlooked, resulting in damaged The F37’s hull is a medium V design. motors. New motors, and the gaiter kit, Moulded underwater sections at the stern are available from Seabridge Marine. increase the hull length and provide the The F37 is a dream to handle at idle boat with a soft and comfortable ride. The speeds and its obedience at close quarter hull offers low wake at idle river speeds, manoeuvres is exceptional. Most boats and provides planning speeds from have EDC throttle controls and, in normal around 14 knots. The props are run in conditions simply nudging in and out of tunnels to increase the boats efficiency and gear should be sufficient for most berthing the boat is very capable in a wide range of situations. Some boats will also be fitted sea conditions, punching above its weight with a bow thruster, which is always useful in terms of seakeeping. in those difficult close quarter situations.

Sealines of this era were usually fitted with Eltrim trim tabs. These work well, Engines but the external motors are susceptible to Like most boats, the Sealine F37’s power water ingress if not properly maintained. evolved through its production. As Check that both of the tabs are working, the engine power increased, so did the maximum speed, from 27 to 31 knots.

When the 350 Statesman was launched in 1991 it was offered with twin 200hp Volvo Penta TAMD41 or twin 230hp Volvo KAMD42’s. When the first F37’s emerged in 1999 they too were available with twin 230hp’s, but this time these were the newer KAMD43 engines. By 2000 Sealine was offering the 260hp KAMD44 A great performer. The F37 has a medium V hull, stern hull extensions and prop tunnels engines as well as the standard 230hps.

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There is excellent access to the front of the starboard engine via the side cabin. Left, KAMD43 230hp’s fitted to a 2003 model

In 2002 Volvo’s gutsy 285hp KAMD300 engines were made available and proved very popular. At the time there was roughly a £10k difference between the two options, the KAMD43 version priced at £189,168 inc VAT and the KAMD 300’s at £199,741 inc VAT. The very last F37’s to be built were available with twin Volvo D4 260hp and D6 310hp engines options. The D4’s are more compact compared to the previous KAMD43/44 engines, therefore they are a lot easier to on.

Today an F37 fitted with 230hp’s should be capable of a top speed of around 25 knots and a cruising speed in the region of 22 knots. The 285hp KAD300 engines should push the boat along nicely with a top speed of around 30 knots and a comfortable cruising speed of 25 knots.

As with most boats, F37’s with larger engines carry a higher price tag on the used market. However, the smaller 230260hp engines are perfectly adequate and shouldn’t be dismissed. Across the range of engines, you should expect a fuel consumption of around 1-1.2 mpg at cruising speeds. A shaftdrive boat of this size is never going to be cheap to run, although you do save some on servicing

costs over a more efficient sterndrive boat, so it’s not all bad news.

Boats fitted with new D-series engines may seem a more attractive proposition, but as they are reliant on electronics they are not as easy to work on yourself, and require dealer diagnostic equipment when fault finding. The older genration KAMD engines are much more user friendly for DIY maintenenace and servicing.

One thing to be aware of is that the KAMD44 and KAMD300 engines were 24 valve motors, which require regular tappet inspection and adjustment. While an easy job to do, it does require removal of the high pressure fuel pipes first, a reason why this job is sometimes neglected, resulting in expensive head damage.

When it comes to engine checks there is easy access to the raw water and fuel filters via the lazarette. However, checking the engine oil and coolant levels is a bit more complicated. This is done via the three hatches in the saloon floor and requires moving the saloon table into the cockpit.

Access to the front of the engines, to inspect belts for example, is possible via a hatch under the side cabin berth. This gives direct access to the starboard engine but only limited access to the port engine.

Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

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It is possible to crawl between the engines from this point if you are small enough.

Some earlier boats were fitted with 500 litre plastic fuel tanks. Unfortunately these had the reputation for leaks and fuel blockages due to plastic swarf inside the tanks. Hopefully, by now these problems should have been sorted. Later boats were fitted with metal tanks, which seem to be problem free. You will find the fuel shut off and fuel tank crossover controls inside the patio doors under the saloon steps.

We would recommend checking the condition of the bilges, sternglands and

skin fittings and also having a general look over the engines for signs of corrosion.

We would always advise buyers to check that regular servicing has been carried out.

Conclusion It’s hard to fault this flybridge. It’s the perfect cruising crash pad for two, but also a fantastic family boat. With its interior comfort and excellent sea keeping, we believe a used F37 would give the next generation of hard top sport cruisers a run for their money.

It is still hip to have a fly in the UK.

Before buying any used boat, always employ the services of a IIMS or a YDSA accredited surveyor and, if you have any doubt about the engines, a separate engine survey by a suitably qualified person is recommended.

Family Sealine F34 2003-2009

Sealine F36 1998-1999

Sealine 410 1993-1997

Prices £90,000 - £140,000

Prices £80,000 - £100,000

Prices £100,000-£150,000

Length: 37ft 0in Beam: 11ft 0in The twin sterndrives F34, can trace its roots back to the original 30 flybridge.

Buy one (pictured) 2007 £139,000 www.ancasta.com

Length: 37ft 1in Beam: 12ft 2in Identical to the 350, 360 Statesmans and the immediate forerunner to the F37.

Buy one (pictured) 1998 £94,950 www.tingdeneboatsales.net

Length 41ft 11in Beam: 13ft 7in Larger model offering spacious accommodation, an aft cabin, two dinettes and forward double.

Buy one (pictured) 1993 £109,950 www.shepherdsmarine.co.uk

CONTEMPORARY CHOICE Sealine F380 The new-age F37. Sterndrive powered and based on the same hull as the popular SC35/S380. It has a clever flybridge layout and offers a top speed of 33 knots.

Price from £270,358

Built 2014 onwards Length 37ft 4in Beam 12ft 4in Displacement 9800kg Engines 2 x Volvo D4 265hp/300hp or D6 330hp www.sealine.com

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December 2014

PERSONALISED PRODUCTS We can supply hand held dry powder, foam, CO2 or water mist extinguishers in all sizes personalised with your boat name, make, model and logo Price from £12.00 PREMIUM RANGE Anything from the standard or engine room ranges using high quality, corrosion resistant stainless steel cylinders.

Price from £120

A cost effective range of hand held dry powder, foam, CO2 and water mist extinguishers from 1kg/litre to 9kg/litre and a selection of fire blankets from 1m2 to 1.8m2.

Price from £10.00

ENGINE ROOM SYSTEMS Build your own engine room system from a large selection of components. 1kg/litre to 50kg/litre, foam, CO2, dry powder, FM200 and water mist.

Manual, automatic or electronic activation.

Price from £100

BOAT FIRE SYSTEMS

STANDARD RANGE

firemonkeyltd.co.uk 08452 177574 sales@firemonkeyltd.co.uk

Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

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CUTTING Digital Yacht AIT1500

Digital Yacht has introduced an entry level Class B AIS transponder. The AIT1500 uses an internal high sensitivity GPS to save space and reduce installation time. You simply connect it to a power source, plug in a VHF antenna, connect to the plotter and it’s job done. There is also a second output to supply a GPS signal to a VHF radio and a USB port for programming and to allow an interface with PC or Mac based navigation systems. Price £504 www.digitalyacht.co.uk

Ocean Signal MOB1 & EPIRB1

Fuel Guard

Prices MOB1 £250 EPIRB1 £370 www.oceansignal.com

Price £199 www.fuelguard.co.uk

Ocean Signal, the people who brought us the world’s smallest PLB, have done it again, twice! The rescueME MOB1 and the EPIRB1 are the world’s smallest AIS MOB device and the world’s most compact EPIRB. The MOB1 can be attached to a lifejacket’s oral inflation tube ready for automatic activation as soon as the lifejacket is inflated. The EPIRB1 is 30% smaller than other EPIRBs, has a 10 year battery life and is one of the most affordable class 2 EPIRBs on the market.

Imagine not having to carry spare primary fuel filters. That’s what Fuel Guard offers. Available in three sizes for engines up to 1200hp, each filter has a 30 micron stainless steel filter element that is designed to be quickly and easily removed, and simply washed using clean fuel.

The clear bowl allows quick visual inspections and is Boat Safety Scheme approved.

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December 2014

the latest boating gear and technology

Zhik Aroshell Coastal

Zhik is an Australian company that have been producing a range of technical boating clothing for 10 years. Never heard of them? Neither had we until recently, but having seen their latest offerings we think you should take a look.

The latest addition is the Aroshell Coastal foul weather gear which uses a three layer fabric to offer breathability and light weight in a fully waterproof package.

Price Jacket £279 trousers £269 www.zhik.com

RNLI Christmas Book

Looking for a gift for the little ones?

The RNLI’s children’s Christmas book ‘The Big Christmas Rescue’ is now on sale. The book can be personalised, putting its young reader at the centre of a magical festive story. When Santa crashes his sleigh in the sea, volunteer RNLI lifeboat crew members go to the rescue, with the help of a very special child.

Price £9.95 www.rnlishop.org/BigRescue

Crewsaver Crewfit

Survitec, parent company of Crewsaver, has taken the comfortable 3D design features from its ErgoFit range and added it to the whole range of Crewfit lifejackets. This means that you can now own one of the most comfortable lifejackets on the market for as little as £60 for the 165N Sport model. You can also choose the 180N Pro and the 150N junior, both from £80.

Price from £60 www.crewsaver.com

Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

Garmin

GPSMAP 7400

Garmin’s ongoing launch of new multi function displays shows no signs of slowing.

The latest is the 7400 series of pinch-tozoom touchscreen models, that offer 7, 8, 10 or 12 inch screens, with or without built in 1kW CHIRP sonar.

The sonar models also provide DownVü and SideVü capabilities.

Price from £1330 www.garmin.com/en-gb

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Gosport

Guernsey

Set in the shadows of the Historic Dockyards of Portsmouth, Gosport is a convenient all tides destination with more to offer than meets the eye

by Claire Frew

L

ocated on the western shore of Portsmouth Harbour, Gosport is not the most ostentatious boating destination in the Solent, but this little town has long provided the ‘backbone’ for all the seafaring historical events that has made Portsmouth so famous all over the world. With Portsmouth being so dominated by the naval dockyards, wharfs and commercial ferry port, it is no surprise that Gosport, on the opposite side of the estuary, has established itself as

the main area for leisure boating. It now has three marinas, all within a mile of each other. These marinas have excellent facilities, and being so close to the harbour entrance make them a great starting point for boating explorations of the Solent.

You can slip your lines and be out of the harbour just 10 minutes after starting your engine. There are no locks to negotiate and no waiting for tides. Coupled with the fact that there is so much to see and do ashore in the area, it’s no wonder that Gosport

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December 2014

Destination

GOSPORT

Image provided by Premier Marinas

Gosport

Poole

Lymington

Weymouth

Salcombe

Discover Gosport

has become a very popular boating destination.

Gosport began life as a seafront fishing and market town. With Portsmouth’s shipbuilding industry growing rapidly, the town became an important trade supplier for its navy and its expanding dockyard.

This military presence in the harbour led to the western Solent, and approaches to Portsmouth, being heavily fortified.

With the threat of land and sea invasions, ramparts and a moat were built to protect the town of Gosport. Sadly many of the original forts no longer exist.

These include Charles Fort, which was on

Gosport waterfront, and James Fort on Burrow Island at Royal Clarence Marina.

However part of the town rampart and moat can be found next to Holy Trinity Church, close to Haslar Marina.

One of the earliest forts was Fort Blockhouse, first built in the 15th century.

It was strategically placed on the end of the peninsula known as Blockhouse Point in order to defend the narrow entrance channel. It was upgraded and replaced many times through the years, most notably by Henry VIII. During the Civil War in 1642 close neighbours Gosport and Portsmouth found themselves briefly

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Gosport Society

Gosport High Street’s 18th century Market Hall had to be demolished after World War II

Gosport Society

at war with each other, with the guns at Fort Blockhouse firing upon Southsea Castle.

By the 19th century Gosport had become a military stronghold and served many years as an important garrison to the Army and Royal Navy. Priddy’s Hard was the base for the arsenal, and further down the harbour, Weevil Yard was responsible for the food victualing of the Royal Navy, including Lord Nelson’s fleet.

There was a slaugtherhouse, a granary, and a bakery producing ship’s biscuits, other buildings stored rum, water and beef. This cluster of buildings was renamed Clarence Yard after the Duke of Clarence who later became King William IV. A railway ran between Gosport and Fareham carrying military personnel and supplies to the yard. It is said that Queen Victoria used this route to Clarence Yard, and from here she would depart aboard her royal yacht for her home on the Isle of Wight, Osborne House.

The town served a vital role in the preparations for the two World wars, in particular for D-Day’s Operation Overlord. During this time soldiers were living and training around the harbour.

The World War II Phoenix Caissons, the

World War II Landing craft being loaded along Gosports waterfront in preparation for D-Day

concrete structures forming the Mulberry Harbours, were also being built close by at Stokes Bay. Royal Clarence Yard continued to provide the necessary food provisions for the fleets. British and Canadian soldiers boarded landing craft bound for the Normandy beaches via the slipway at Hardway. The long established naval hospital on the Haslar Peninsula, known as the Royal Haslar Hospital cared for many wartime wounded.

Despite heavy bombardment, Gosport remains studded with many of its original Georgian-style military buildings. Many of these are now being preserved and redeveloped into homes, as seen at Royal Clarence Yard and Priddy’s Hard. The Haslar peninsula and creek is still very much a base for UK naval forces, with moorings for several military yacht clubs, the Royal Navy Submarine Museum and the Haslar Royal Naval Cemetery.

Gosport has a ringside seat for the many vessel movements in Portsmouth harbour.

There is always activity and something to watch, as no sooner has one commercial or naval vessel departed, another arrives.

If you listen very carefully from the warm burrow of your bunk, you can often hear

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December 2014

Destination

GOSPORT Image provided by Amazing Venues

The approaches to Portsmouth Harbour looking north. Here we see Gosport on the left and Portsmouth (Spinnaker Tower) on the right. Spit Bank Fort lies to the west of the main channel

the navy’s morning call across the quiet harbour, as ensigns are raised and the officers start their day.

is Gilkicker Point. From here there is an excellent transit that guides you towards the waterfront at Southsea, so you can turn directly into the small boat channel.

The transit, called the Swashway, is found The approaches to Portsmouth can be by lining up the column of the Royal busy. As it is a commercial and leisure Naval Memorial on Southsea Common harbour, large ferries, navy boats and with the tower of the tall building behind. container ships converge on quite a The monument is dedicated to those who narrow channel, it is important to keep were lost in the two World wars and is a good lookout. Studying a chart of identified by its large green copper sphere the entrance prior to your first visit is at the top. Be aware that Wightlink car essential. It is also essential that you stay ferries that run from Fishbourne, on the out of the main shipping channel and use Isle of Wight, to Portsmouth also use this the small boat channel that lies to the west transit, as do the regular Fast Cat ferry of the main channel, and outside of the and hovercraft service from Ryde. The red buoys. hovercraft crosses the harbour entrance If your approach is from the west, to disembark its passengers on Southsea your first reference point for navigation Common, just south of the amusement

Approaches

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Burrow Island Royal Clarence Marina

Gosport Marina

Ballast

Haslar Marina Fort Blockhouse

AL SM LB EL NN k

an

nB

lto mi

Ha

HA TC OA

War Memorial

IN MA ING

IPP

SH

sit

an Tr

L

NE

AN

CH

Entering Portsmouth Harbour is exciting and will test your navigation skills but it’s well worth it. Inset photo, National Coastwatch Tower at Fort Blockhouse. The Swashway transit War Memorial at Southsea (top) and Ballast Pile (bottom)

park at Clarence Pier. There is also access to the harbour from the west via the Inner Swashway, close to Haslar Bank, but only over the high tide period and with some local knowledge.

If your approach is from the east you

The Gosport Ferry operates a regular service crossing the harbour. Keep a good look out for it when passing Ballast Post

need to be aware of the submarine barrier, which runs north to south linking the shoreline to Horse Sand Fort. The barrier, which lies about a metre below the surface at high water, was built in preparation for World War II. With care, it is possible to pass through a marked gap in the barrier, which is useful if you are coming from Langstone or Chichester. The south cardinal marker, Outer Spit, marks the start of the main shipping channel into Portsmouth.

On your final approach stay close to, but outside of, the red channel markers.

You will need to be aware of the Hamilton Bank, which gets particularly shallow.

Pass port to port with outbound traffic in the small boat channel, being careful

50

December 2014

Destination not to stray into the main channel. The narrow entrance can be little a tricky on the ebb, particularly on a spring tide at around 3 hours after high water when the tide can run out of the entrance at up to 5 knots. At this state of tide, even in windless conditions, the water just outside the harbour can become confused, and punching the tide makes the approach wallowy. You can monitor large ship movements on VHF channel 11, which is the Queens Harbour Master channel, otherwise known as QHM. There is a speed limit of 10 knots in Portsmouth Harbour but we would suggest throttling well below this and watching your wake. The small boat channel continues along the port side of the harbour due to a military exclusion zone along the Portsmouth side.

Where to moor

There are three visitors’ marinas to choose from in Gosport, Royal Clarence Marina, Gosport Marina and Dean and Reddyhoff ’s, Haslar Marina. All three operate on VHF channel 80.

The first marina you will see you on the Gosport side is Haslar, easily recognised by its green Lightship. Behind this, and between pontoons K and M, is the main

GOSPORT

Where to fill up

Petrol and Diesel are available at the Gosport Marina fuel berth (02392 524811). On busy weekends an attendant will usually be based on the pontoon, but in quieter periods you will need to telephone or call the marina VHF Channel 80, call sign Gosport Marina, for service. The pontoon can easily accommodate four boats at a time and payment is taken in the hut on the pontoon. With passing traffic it can be rather bouncy so make sure you have plenty of fenders ready. We would recommend that small motorboats moor on the inside of the pontoon if available.

Weather information

Gosport Weather Forecast www.gosportweather.co.uk Weather Actuals from Bramble Met www.bramblemet.co.uk Met Office Shipping Forecast Wight www.metoffice.gov.uk Met Office Inshore Waters Forecast – Lyme Regis to Selsey Bill

Charts & Pilot Books

Admiralty SC5600 The Solent and Approaches Chart Folio Imray 2200.5 Portsmouth Harbour & Approaches Chart Solent Cruising Companion

Slipways

The fuel berth at Gosport Marina is very convenient. It sells petrol and diesel

There is a public slipway at Hardway.

It’s a concrete slope, but can be quite slippery. There is another small slipway on Harbour Road, just off Mumby Road. More information can be found at the Gosport Council website

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area for visitors, with alongside berths.

For the two marinas beyond you will need to continue into the harbour, making sure that you leave the red Ballast Pile to port. On passing Ballast keep a look out for the green Gosport Ferries that cross the harbour running between Portsmouth and Gosport pier.

Gosport Premier Marina is the most convenient for Gosport High Street and waterfront services, which are just a few minutes walk from the marina. It’s also a convenient place to refuel. The marina

is predominantly finger berths and does not have a dedicated area for visitors. The marina has a long breakwater, but when a large ferry or freighter moves through the harbour it can create some rocking on the berths, which is usually short lived.

Castle Marinas Royal Clarence Marina is located within the elegant grounds of Clarence Yard, Gosport’s former Royal Navy food victualing depot. It was sold to developers in 1991, but its stunning grade II listed buildings have been kept intact.

This is the quieter, more secluded of the

Gosport

10m 1 night berth £31.50 10m 1 week berth £198.45 10m 1 month £630 10m annual berth £4888.80 or/ 10m Dry stack £4,122.50 or / 9m Pile Mooring £1,711.26 Tel: 02392 524 811 gosport@premiermarinas.com www.premiermarinas.com

Royal Clarence

10m 1 night berth £27.50 10m 1 week berth £192.50 10m 1 month POA 10m annual berth £4300.73 Tel: 02392 523523

info@royalclarencemarina.org www.royalclarencemarina.org

Haslar

10m 1 night berth £31 10m 1 week berth (Summer) £182 10m 1 month (Summer) £765 10m annual berth £4,950 Tel: 02392 601201 berths@haslarmarina.co.uk www.haslarmarina.co.uk

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December 2014

Destination

GOSPORT

Gosport Borough Council

Marine Supplies

The nautical flags spell ‘Welcome’ above the door at the Castle Tavern, and with its hot, plentiful home cooked food, this pub is a great choice

three marinas and pleasantly sheltered from the wash of passing traffic. Don’t be fooled by its remote appearance, as Gosport High Street and Stoke Road, with its restaurants and Waitrose supermarket, are still only a 10-20 minute walk away.

Where to eat & drink

When it comes to dining out in Gosport, you’ll be relieved to know that besides the many burger bars, cafes and coffee shops on the High Street, there are some hidden gems. If you love hearty, home made pub grub, or a traditional Sunday roast, the Castle Tavern is a must (02392 583991).

The pub was built on the site of the 17th century Fort Charles and is conveniently placed, just yards away from Gosport Marina. The portions are huge and the puddings always come with lashings of custard, just the way we like it. It can get very busy on Saturday nights and Sunday

There are two chandleries in very close proximity in Gosport, You Boat (02392 522226) at Premier Endeavour Quay, on the entrance to Gosport Marina.

There is also Arthurs Chandlery (02392 584622) on Mumby Road, directly behind the Gosport Marina dry stack. Gas bottles are available from Arthurs Chandlery and from the marina receptions at Gosport and Haslar. Please take along your empty cylinder. Gosport Boat Yard (02392 586216) offers most types of repairs with lift out and hardstanding facilities.

It is also the engine agent for Beta and Yanmar. Marine Tech (02392 525858) at Premier Endeavour Quay is a dealer for Raymarine and also stock Volvo Penta spares. Premier’s Gosport Marina (02392 524811) is also equipped with a 14 tonne hoist, and offers hard standing facilities. The Sealift at Haslar Marina is a very useful facility. A standard 1-hour lift and clean for a 10-metre boat is £193.15 (02392 580870). Overnight lifts, hull polishing and anti-fouling packages are also available. There is also a Halfords at the top of the High Street.

Food Supplies

There is a Morrisons and an Iceland at the top of Gosport’s pedestrianised High Street, and they are approximately a 10-20 minute walk from all three marinas. There is a Waitrose on Stoke Road and an Asda on Dock Road. Both are roughly a 20 minute walk from Gosport’s waterfront. Gosport Market is on Tuesdays 9am-3pm and Saturdays 9am-4pm.

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Saved from the scrapyard by marina owners Dean and Reddyhoff, the Mary Mouse Lightship at Haslar is now a bar and restaurant

lunch times for the roast dinners, so book a table if you can.

If you like Indian food The New Bengal (02392 58372) on Stoke Road can be highly recommended. Closer to the waterfront, and just off the High Street, is Royal Spice.

If you like fish and chips besidePriddy’s the 13 Hard seaside. Frydays on the corner of the High

Street has a takeaway counter and an eatin restaurant. If it’s Chinese you crave, above Frydays is the Great Wall (02392 503388). The all-you-can-eat restaurant is on the first floor with harbour views. It has a takeaway menu too.

There are excellent drinking and eating facilities at all three of the marinas. There is Reds Brasserie (02392 584 699) at Royal Clarence Marina, the Boat House Café (02392 601166) at Premier Gosport, and the Lightship and Hardys (02392 588810) at Haslar Marina.

Looking for something extra special?

How about lunch on a Solent fort. Built in the 1800’s Spit Bank Fort is now a hotel and offers dining experiences departing from Royal Clarence Marina by private launch. For the Sunday lunch experience (£99 per person) there is champagne on arrival, a three-course meal and a guided tour of the fort. Spit Bank and No Mans

13

KEY 1 Premier Gosport Marina

11 3

2 Haslar Marina 3 Royal Clarence Marina 4 Tourist Information

High Street Bus Station

5 Castle Tavern 6 The Great Wall Chinese 7 New Bengal Indian 8 Gosport Ferry 9 Lightship 10 Hardys at Haslar 11 Reds Brasserie 12 Royal Navy Submarine Museum

Footpath

15

£ C

1

C

1 2 4

7

5 C £ 6 £ 19 14

14 Fyrdays Fish & Chips 15 The Boathouse Cafe 16 Gunwharf Quays

17 16

9 Fort Blockhouse

12

1

Iceland Food Store

2

Morrisons Food Store

3

Asda Food Store

4

Waitrose Food Store

Portsmouth

Slipway

TC OA

19 Royal Spice

2

Fuel Berth

18

LB AL SM

17 Spinnaker Tower 18 Portsmouth Historic Dockyard

8

4

3

10

Chandlery Train Station

Ballast

13 Explosion!

Cashpoint

EL

NN

HA

54

War Memorial

December 2014 IN MA S

Destination

GOSPORT

Fort are operated by Amazing Venues. No Mans Fort will be opening to the public in spring 2015.

Places to visit

There is plenty to see and do in Gosport, and also some great opportunities to explore its military past. If you like walking, the 2-mile Millennium Promenade takes you across the Gosport Millennium Bridge and links two of Gosports best attractions, Explosion!

The Museum of Naval Firepower and the Royal Navy Submarine Museum.

Explosion! is housed within the 18th century former Royal Navy armament buildings at Priddy’s Hard. Amongst the navy artefacts, guns, bombs and weaponary on display, is a full size atom bomb. You can also discover the origins of Priddy’s Hard. There is plenty for the kids (and bigger kids) to see and do for a morning or afternoon, and the museum’s café offers great views of the harbour.

The Royal Navy Submarine Museum is just a few minutes walk from Haslar

Discover Gosport

The Royal Navy Submarine Museum is a great family day out and is home to four submarines

Marina and is a great family attraction.

Guided by ex submariners, you can explore HMS Alliance, a British World War II submarine, and discover three other resident submarines at this modern museum. It costs £14 for adults, £10 for children (5-15yrs), senior citizens are £10 and familiy tickets are available at £38.

The Gosport Ferry operates a regular service over to Portsmouth, every 7-15 minutes. A visit to Portsmouth Historic Dockyard is an absolute must. Here three of Britain’s most important historic ships are preserved and open to the public, Lord Nelson’s Battle of Trafalgar warship, HMS Victory, the formidable 19th century iron steam-powered warship, HMS Warrior, and finally Henry VIII’s battleship, Mary Rose that foundered just outside Portsmouth harbour. Multiple atraction tickets are available to provide entry to the Historic Dockyard, Explosion and the Royal Submarine Museum. These tickets are valid for a year and are £28 for adults and £21 for children. The Harbour Tour from the dockyard, included with your

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Discover Gosport

Gosport Market is a feast for the eyes and we guarantee you won’t come away empty handed

Discover Gosport

entrance ticket, is highly recommended, and during the summer months a waterbus service links all three of the attractions. No visit to Portsmouth would

You’ll have a blast at Explosion, Priddy’s Hard

be complete without a visit Gunwharf Quays. Here the 170-metre high Spinnaker Tower offers panoramic views over the harbour and beyond. Gunwharf is also a shopper’s paradise with over 120 outlet shops and restaurants, a bowling alley and a cinema.

One of the largest and most impressive 19th century fortifications in Gosport is Fort Brockhurst. Surrounded by a moat, the fortress is run by English Heritage and it is free to explore from April until the end of September. It’s a 25-minute bus ride from the Gosport Bus Station using bus routes E1, E2, 9A, 10 and 11.

Gosport’s pedestrianised High Street has a good blend of small shops and cafes, speckled with a few major high street brands such as New Look, Boots, Argos and Clarks. These, together with a very handy 99p store, a Morrisons and an Iceland, should mean you will be able to find just about everything you need.

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December 2014

Destination There is certainly enough to keep even the most discerning shopper happy for a few hours. Tuesdays and Saturdays are market day, and stalls span the entire length of the High Street selling fresh produce, plants, sweets, clothing and lots more. It’s definitely worth a look. At the top of the High Street you will also find Waypole Park with its boating lake.

Another attraction just outside of the town is Little Woodham, a 17th Century Village Experience. This cluster of houses set in woodland gives a nostalgic peak into village life during the time of Cromwell.

You can explore the buildings, meet the costumed villagers and see their crafts.

It’s a fascinating learning experience and suitable for all the family. The village is open to the public on certain days from mid April until October. It’s a 20-minute bus ride away via the 9/9a route from Gosport Bus Station.

Other attractions that are closeby and easily reached by bus include, the Hovercraft Museum at Lee on Solent and the Diving Museum at Stokes Bay. The Tourist Information Centre, next to the Bus Station on Gosport’s waterfront, is a great place to start your exploration of the town.

Transport

The Gosport Ferry operates a foot passenger service over to Portsmouth from 7am until midnight running every 7 minutes at peak times, and every 15 minutes off peak. Return tickets are £3.10 for adults, £2.10 for children and OAP’s. A 10-trip ticket is £14.50 for adults. First Group operate bus routes from Gosport Bus Station, with services to Stokes Bay, Lee-on-Solent and Fareham. There is a taxi rank just yards away from the Bus Station and Ferry terminal. Southern and South West trains operate from Portsmouth Harbour Station, which is just a short hop via the Gosport Ferry. It’s under 2 hours to London and trains go direct to Victoria and Waterloo.

Further afield

The Solent is a diverse and sheltered playground of anchorages, town quays and marinas. Bembridge, Beaulieu, Lymington, Yarmouth, the River Hamble and Cowes are musts.

Distances Discover Gosport

Little Woodham, a 17th century Village Experience is a hidden treasure

GOSPORT

Approximate distances in nautical miles from Gosport: Bembridge 7 miles Chichester Bar 9 miles Cowes 9 miles Hamble 12 miles Beaulieu 15 miles Lymington 19 miles Poole 38 miles Brighton 42 miles Cherbourg 72 miles For more information visit: www.discovergosport.co.uk www.gosportmarinescene.com

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tested Torqeedo Travel 1003

The Torqeedo range of electric outboards have been around for a few years but, until recently, I had never had the chance to really use one. Yes I have had a five minute test at a press event, but I hadn’t had the opportunity for the kind of use that only an owner can experience. That was put right at the Southampton boat show when I took a T1003 away with me. I have since been using it in place of my twostroke engine as propulsion for our 41kg Valiant 2.4 metre RIB tender.

I don’t know what it is about electric propulsion. Maybe it is the fear of the unknown, but the one statement that people who have seen me using it is “what do you do when the battery goes flat”? The answer, of course, is no different to if you run out of fuel in your petrol outboard.

The outboard has a twist grip throttle, and you can also use standard locks to keep it secure

PRICE FROM

£1,499

You either make sure you have enough to start with, or you take your oars and be prepared to row. In practice the Torqeedo has actually proven to be better in this respect than a petrol outboard, as I shall go on to explain.

Firstly though, lets tackle one of the big issues with portable outboards, weight and ease of carrying. The T1003 weighs just 13.4kg, including the battery, which is comparable with the lightest 2.5hp fourstoke outboard. Add the litre of fuel to the outboard though, and it’s a full kilogram heavier. The 1000 Watt motor is equivalent to 1.5hp, but the manufacturers claim that this provides performance that is equal to a 3hp petrol outboard.

Moving the outboard around is made easier by the unit splitting down into three lightweight components. If you find 13kg too heavy to lift down into your tender, the T1003 can be rigged in pieces, each weighing considerable less. The unit comes

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All tests in Motorboat Owner are carried out by real boaters in real life situations

with a pair of carrying bags, a large one for the motor and tiller (8.9kg), and a smaller one for the battery (4.5kg). This makes very easy work of carting it from the car to the boat, and vice versa. Obviously, with no oil and fuel, there are no specific storage requirements and no chance of spills and fumes.

Fitting the bits together is very simple.

The tiller slots in vertically and locks as it is lowered, and the battery connects similarly, with a locking pin to ensure it stays put. You then just connect two plugs and you are ready to go. From bag to assembled and ready to go, takes less than a minute.

Like a petrol outboard, the Torqeedo has a kill cord, which is a disc that is held in place magnetically. To get underway you attach the kill cord, press the power button, and twist the throttle. There is no

The outboard has a magnetic kill cord and the battery is locked in place with a removable pin

The T1003 is lightweight, and breaks down into three pieces for easy carrying

pulling on starting cables, unexpected kick backs, or blisters when it refuses to fire.

The throttle twists both ways from neutral for forward or reverse, but you need to lock the leg down when using reverse otherwise it kicks up readily.

The sensation of casting yourself adrift without the reassuring sound of a petrol motor is quite unnerving, but you soon get used to it. The throttle control is infinitely adjustable, so you can in fact get the prop rotating at a very slow speed to offer far more precise control than can be delivered by a petrol outboard. The amount of torque provided is surprisingly good, with acceleration that felt much faster than that supplied by a petrol motor of similar size.

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tested Torqeedo Travel 1003 continued......

It is, of course, also a very quiet way to get around. If you wanted to sneak up on some fish, for example, the T1003 would be the perfect tool to do it with.

The tiller is fitted with an electronic display. This provides a percentage of battery remaining, your current speed which is provided by the built in GPS, the amount of Watts the motor is using and, using the above parameters, the range you have left in the battery at the current usage. With this information at hand there is really no reason why you should ever find yourself out of power but, for the purposes of the test, I decided to see what would happen if you ignored this information and just kept going. The result really surprised me.

With our setup, the T1003 produced a flat out speed of 4.3 knots. This is pretty much in the ballpark of a 2.5hp petrol outboard.

Unfortunately at this speed the motor was running at its full 1000W and range was down to just a The display provides couple of nautical information on speed, miles. If I eased power, battery state, and the range remaining the throttle back, at current usage so that the motor

Carry cases make light work of moving the Torqeedo around

was running at about 350W, I achieved a perfectly respectable 3 knots and a range of around 8nm. Throttle back further and you can increase the range to as much as 12nm with a speed of around 2 knots.

Think about the journeys that you take in your tender, and how many times you really have been more than a couple of miles. Even ardent tender adventurers are unlikely to find themselves short of power.

Once I had my test figures I opened the throttle fully and waited to see what would happen as the battery was depleted.

Firstly, at 30% remaining, there is an audible alarm and a message that advises you to use reduced power. Ignoring this

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December 2014

All tests in Motorboat Owner are carried out by real boaters in real life situations

I continued flat out and received another alarm at 20%. Very shortly afterwards yet another alarm sounded and the display quickly dropped to 5% remaining. At this point I headed back to base but kept going at full throttle. The battery indicator dropped to 0%, but still it kept going.

Fifteen minutes later the motor was still running. The power consumption was now down to 800 Watts but I was still doing over 3 knots, with no sign that the motor was about to die. I concluded that unlike a petrol engine, where it just stops when the power source is all used up, the Torqeedo would gradually get slower, but will still continue to provide power for a decent amount of time and a good distance, after the display shows zero power left. I think that running out of power completely, and unexpectedly, would actually be very hard to do in normal everyday use.

The battery is Lithium Ion, which means it has no memory effect and can be charged and discharged as required.

A full charge from flat took Motorboat over 15 hours, Owner so it is probably “A fantastic, better to keep albeit expensive, it topped up alternative” little and often, or put it on Value 2/5 overnight.

Usability 5/5 Unlike a petrol Performance 5/5 motor, there

Removing the battery for charging takes seconds

is no quick recharge, unless you carry a spare battery, so a bit of forward planning is needed to ensure you always have power when you need it.

Charging time aside, it might seem like there is no downside to owning a Torqeedo as your tender engine, and on a technical level I would agree.

Unfortunately there is an elephant in the room, and that is the price. At £1,499 you could buy two premium brand petrol outboards and still have enough left over to fuel them both for a considerable amount of time. If you want the convenience of a second battery, that will set you back another £499. If money isn’t an object, or less of an object than weight, noise, fumes and spills, then I couldn’t recommend the Torqeedo enough. It really is a great bit of kit and the notion that you will be forever running out of battery power is a fallacy. For those of us with shallower pockets we can only keep our fingers crossed that prices gradually creep down as the technology becomes more commonplace.

Contact: Torqeedo GB www.torqeedo.com/uk

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USED BOAT

SECOND LOOK

Seamaster 820 1982 ‘Belle Amie’

I

f you had a budget in the region of £10k and wanted a spacious, diesel powered, family cruiser, that would be a great river boat, but also capable of estuary and coastal use, you might be forgiven for thinking it was asking for the impossible. This month we’ve been onboard Belle Amie, a 1982 Seamaster 820, and she meets all these requirements and more.

First though, lets look at a bit of the history behind the brand and the boat.

Seamaster started building boats in the 1950’s, and were among the pioneers of fibreglass boat building. Like many other great British boat builders of the era they succumbed to financial difficulties and finally ceased trading in 1981, but not before churning out thousands of boats and numerous different models, including over 20 different motorboats, as well as a handful of yachts. In 1979 the 820 was one of the last models to be launched by Seamaster, and they produced around 100

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December 2014

FOR SALE

£11,950

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63

The forward berth area offers six foot headroom and ample storage

820’s during their final two years. Belle Amie is listed as a 1982 boat, so it is safe to assume it was one of the very last of the original Seamasters, possibly finished and launched after the company had folded.

Despite the company’s misfortunes, the Seamaster 820 refused to fade away.

Versions made by Carringtons and L H Jones were produced throughout the 1980’s and into the 90’s. These sometimes go by the model name of Duchess. Even today the Seamaster name lives on, and is used by Viking mouldings, who produce a Seamaster 28 that uses the same hull as the original 820.

The interior of Belle Amie offers berths for four in an open plan layout. Forward there are two single vee berths with an infill to create a double if required. These berths are a good size and offer a huge amount of storage below. From the main cabin there is a small step down into this 64

forward area and this provides around 6ft of headroom right into the bow. On the starboard side bulkhead there is a large deep hanging locker and on the forward bulkhead a hatch provides the boat’s only access to the anchor locker. There is some evidence of water leaks in this area, possibly from the windows or through deck fittings, but these should be quite easy to rectify.

Moving into the main cabin, you really get a feel for the boat’s 10ft 2in beam. With this much space it’s easy to forget you are on board a boat that is just 27ft long.

The galley is on the starboard side and offers a sink with drainer, a gas oven with grill and two burner hob, and an electric fridge. Work surface is plentiful with the covers in place over the hob and sink, but in short supply when they are both in use. Storage is abundant in the galley with three low level cupboards, four drawers

December 2014

The dinette converts into another berth, and can comfortably seat a family of four at mealtimes

and two deep work-surface height units.

The large triple aspect windows allow lots of light into the cabin and big sliding openers provide plenty of ventilation, particularly useful when the galley is in full swing. The woodwork around the galley looks to be in good condition but would benefit from a rub down and varnish.

Opposite the galley is an L shaped dinette, large enough for the whole family.

The table is split into two pieces and can be used singularly, or together, depending upon how many people are eating. The dinette converts into a decent sized double and there is a generous hanging locker forward of the berth, together with a cupboard and a drinks cabinet. Beneath

The 820 has plenty of workspace, as long as you don’t use the sink and hob together

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USED BOAT

SECOND LOOK

The toilet compartment has all the necessary facilities

the dinette is a huge amount of storage space. Head height throughout the cabin is a constant 6ft. The upholstery is in very good order throughout the cabin, but there is some water ingress through the

The helm offers good visibilty and is protected by the wheelshelter roof. The vinyl looks new 66

cabin roof, which has affected a small area of the roof lining. We suspect this is from an obsolete fitting on the outside of the cabin that needs removing and sealing.

In the aft starboard corner of the cabin you’ll find the toilet compartment. This again offers 6ft headroom and includes a sink with hot and cold water, a shower and a porta potti toilet. There is an opening window for ventilation and a small wall mounted storage unit. There is a small amount of water damage in this compartment, possibly caused by a leaking deck fitting.

Two steps lead from the cabin up into the cockpit. Here the hardtop over the wheelhouse offers protection to around half of the cockpit, importantly including the helm and navigators seats. The cockpit is spacious and includes a full width transom bench which, together with the two seats up front, provide seating for up to six. The vinyl is in very good condition and looks to have been replaced recently.

The wooden door and hatch cover into the cabin are in good order, needing nothing more than a tickle up with a bit of sand paper and a coat of stain or varnish.

December 2014

A functional helm, with space to mount extra electronics if required

The helm is nice and simple with engine instrumentation and controls, some basic switchgear and the bare essential electronics, in the shape of a depth instrument, log, and Garmin GPSMAP 130. In front of the helm is a vast flat mounting area, like a blank canvas awaiting further electronic upgrades. A set of trim tabs look to be a recent addition, and overhead there is mounted a newish Cobra VHF set. A little bit of tidying of high level wiring, and some TLC for the woodwork around the edges of the wheelshelter, would be simple and quick improvement jobs for the helm area.

The floor of the cockpit is made up of numerous panels that lift to gain access to the bilge area beneath. Some of these panels are showing evidence of water damage around the edges and the whole floor would benefit from a new covering

or carpet, but they remain serviceable in the meantime. Beneath the helm seat is a small panel that provides access to the water pump and calorifier. Between the helm seats you’ll find the boat’s two batteries and the mild steel fuel tank.

The latter appears to be in good leak-free order. The aft three sections lift for engine access. The single Volvo Penta AQD40A six cylinder diesel engine produces 130hp and drives the boat through a Volvo 280 drive. This should push Belle Amie along at speeds of up to 12 knots, with a very economical cruising speed of between 6 and 8 knots. The engine bay does have

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USED BOAT

SECOND LOOK

With a single engine in the spacious engine bay, servicing and maintenance should be easy

some water in the bottom but otherwise is a clean and tidy installation. With a single engine there is masses of space to get into the bay, and all around the engine, meaning servicing and maintenance should be relatively easy.

The sidedecks are very wide and safe with conveniently placed grabrails 68

Underneath the transom seat there is plenty of storage for boat cleaning and mooring kit, as well as a gas locker that holds two 4.5kg Calor Gas bottles. Behind this seat is another full width storage area, perfect for long items such as a cleaning brush or boat hook. The cockpit is enclosed in a vinyl canopy, which is in serviceable condition and needs no repairs, although it is past its first flush of youth and may need replacing in the next few years.

Access to, and exit from, the cockpit is aided by a set of steps that can be easily swapped between sides. The side decks are particularly wide for a boat of this size with guardrails from the wheelhouse forward. A few of the stanchions are loose, which would account for some of the leaks inside the boat, and in one or two places the decks below the stanchions are showing signs of softening. This will require some remedial work but the stanchion bolts are all very easily accessible from inside the boat. Apart from these very localised areas, there

December 2014

The canopy is serviceable but may need replacing in the near future

Conclusion Belle Amie is an affordable and eminently usable boat. It offers acres of space in a package that won’t break the bank to buy or moor. There are a few bits that need some work, but nothing to stop you buying and using this boat straight away.

Lets be honest, any 28ft diesel engine boat

that could be yours for a little over £10k is bound to need a small amount of TLC, and we’ve seen much worse on boats with a considerably higher asking price. It offers just about everything you could want, except perhaps speed, and would make a perfect boat for someone based on a river, but who would like to make the odd passage onto coastal waters.

Boat Name: Belle Amie Make/Model: Seamaster 820 Year: 1982 Engine: 1 x Volvo Penta AQD40A LOA: 26ft 10 in / 8.18m Beam: 10ft 2in / 3.1m Air Draft: 8ft 9in / 2.67m Fuel: 232 litres / 51 gallons Water: 182 litres / 40 gallons Clarke and Carter Essex 01621 785600 www.clarkeandcarter.co.uk

Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

SPECIFICATIONS

are no other obvious signs of flexing in the decks and they appear in good order, although the existing paint coating on the side and fore decks is flaking, and would benefit from a repaint.

The hull and topsides all appear in good order, belying its 32 years, with little or no evidence of mooring knocks and scrapes.

On the stern there is a bathing platform with wooden slats and snap davits. The frame and woodwork all look to be in good shape. One item that any purchaser will need to investigate is the boat’s navigation lights. For some reason the mast head light appears to be a tri-colour, rather than the steaming light you would expect. A minor detail, but one that may be easily overlooked until needed.

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USED BOAT

SECOND LOOK

PRACTICAL

ADVICE

Preparing for winter

BY ROD DANIEL ACII

With winter upon us we asked Rod Daniel, from online boat insurance company, Craftinsure.com, for some advice on keeping our boats safe over the coming months.

A fter a great summer for most, it’s

perhaps easy to forget the carnage caused by last winter’s storms and floods, particularly to boats left afloat.

Here is a timely reminder with advice to help reduce the risks of sinking and damage.

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December 2014

Your Mooring If moored

to fixed jetties or similar, add extra mooring warps and consider using higher anchoring points not restricted by lower ones. Try and arrange for local boatyards or residents to keep mooring lines adjusted if you are not able to check the boat regularly. Take additional steps to reduce the risk of any part of the boat becoming trapped under a jetty, sill or similar obstruction as water levels rise.

Your Boat During periods of

heavy rain, check for accumulation of water in the bilges. This can lower freeboard to a critical point and even lead to the boat sinking if hull openings normally above the waterline become submerged. If you have loose fitting canopies and covers, try to prop them up to avoid low points where water can collect. The weight of this water can lower freeboard and can rip fixings and seams.

Loose covers should also be securely fastened. High winds in winter can often get underneath them resulting in extensive damage. Ensure drainage channels are

Rain water and snow can gather in sagging canopies. Try and check your boat regularly

kept clear of leaves and debris so that water doesn’t build up in cockpits and find its way below. Damp and mould can be rife in the winter months. Consider taking soft furnishing home, if you are not using the boat, to keep them dry and secure.

Don’t rely on automatic bilge pumps to prevent flooding. Failure can easily occur due to loss of battery charge or blockages.

If canopies or covers have been blown away or torn, erect temporary covers as soon as possible to prevent any further Leaves and muck can gather and block drainage ingress of water. Dinghies and small boats channels. Even if your boat is on a hardstanding need to be brought ashore and moved to this could cause problems if left higher ground.

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PRACTICAL

Equipment, bedding, cushions, tenders and outboards can be stored at home over the winter

Remove outboard motors to a secure building. If you are not going to be using the boat, consider removing any valuable kit and equipment. It’s not just the weather you need to be wary of during the long cold nights of winter. Opportunist thieves may see boats that are not being used as an easy target.

If freezing temperatures are predicted, ensure that the boat, and its engines, are correctly winterised. Damage caused by frost is only usually covered by insurance policies if the engine manufacturer’s recommendations for winterisation have

been fully complied with. If engines have been submerged, it’s essential to try and get these ashore, stripped down and first aid action applied to prevent corrosion.

Take specialist advice on how to dry out interiors and any removable items. Once the boat has been made secure, insurers will usually require an estimate for repairs, together with photographs of the damage.

Don’t dispose of any items until agreed with the insurer who may well appoint a marine surveyor to provide assistance, particularly if it’s apparent that the damage is extensive.

If you are not using your boat over the winter, winterising in preparation for cold weather is essential. (See appendix at the end of this issue) 72

December 2014

Flooding If appropriate, sign up to the Environment Agency or other

information sites to ensure that you can be kept informed of any flood warnings.

Floodline Warnings Direct is a free service that provides flood warnings by telephone, email, SMS and fax. To sign up call 0845 988 1188 or go online to www.environment-agency.gov.uk, or in Scotland www.sepa.org.uk.

Emergencies & Making an Insurance Claim

Create an emergency numbers list in your mobile or keep by the phone. Include boatyard phone numbers and the claims helpline number for your insurer. If you do fall victim to the winter storms, contact your insurers as soon as possible to provide them with available information, and take whatever steps you safely can, in order to try and minimise the damage. The best initial advice is always to act as though you did not have insurance, as insurers will support you in taking any reasonable action that could mitigate a claim.

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Jeanneau Merry

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December 2014

Fisher 695 Marlin

BOAT TEST

Length (LOA): 6.93m / 22ft 8in Beam: 2.54m / 8ft 4in Displacement: 1470kg (ex engine) Fuel Capacity: 200 litres Water capacity: 50 litres RCD category: C Engine as tested: Yamaha F150 Other engine options: Single outboard from 115hp up to 175hp Price from ÂŁ35,171

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A

s a child I spent more time than I care to admit sitting by a lake, river or canal fishing. Over the last 20 years, I have also spent more time than I care to admit on boats. Strange then that I have never managed to combine the two. Thoughts have recently turned to the possibility of adding another dimension to my boating by getting some boat fishing kit, but they remained nothing more than thoughts. Earlier in the year I agreed, in a ‘it’ll probably never happen’ sort of way, to go out with a friend on a boat fishing trip.

All was forgotten until a couple of weeks ago when I was reminded that the trip was upon us.

To cut a long story short I actually had a pretty good day. I managed to catch some fish, albeit with the expert help of the

regulars on board, and despite sitting at anchor for the best part of 10 hours in increasingly blustery conditions in the middle of October, I think I may have been bitten by the bug.

Apart from some basic fishing techniques, I learnt a very valuable lesson that day. Your average sportscruiser or flybridge is going to make a pretty hopeless platform for sea fishing. Yes you could get by if you

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December 2014

“A sportsfisher is the best compromise for someone who likes both cruising and fishing” really needed to, but looking around the cockpit of our charter boat at the end of our session, with its mix of fish blood, bits of frozen squid, and an assortment of other stuff that I am not even sure what it was, I quickly realized why sportsfishers are such popular boats. The fact that the cockpit is designed for fishing with lots of uncluttered, wipe clean and hose down space, and the ability to store bait, gut fish and tackle up without ruining your pristine white vinyl. A sportsfisher is, perhaps, the best compromise for someone that likes both cruising and fishing. But what about if fishing is your primary purpose for owning a boat? That’s where boats like the Marlin range from Jeanneau come in. With less emphasis on creature comforts, and even more on practical, fishing friendly deck space, if you want a boat to go a few miles offshore and not worry about getting lugworm in your shag pile, one of the range of three Jeanneau Merry Fisher Marlin models is bound to appeal.

The boat we are testing is the newest and smallest of the lineup, the 695 Marlin, launched earlier this year. I’ll be the first to admit that the Marlin range are not the prettiest of boats, but you have to remember that the range offers function over form and if you want pretty, then the standard 695 will deliver that in bucket loads.

The 695 Marlin comes in two versions, defined by how many entry points they have to the wheelhouse. The single door version Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

There are two models available, both of which have a side access door next to the helm

The two door model also has wheelhouse access aft, with an optional second helm station in the cockpit

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It may be designed primarily for fishing, but the Marlin can also make a comfortable cruiser with folding seating and a large sunpad in the cockpit

lends itself favourably as a family cruiser, while the two door model would be better suited as an out and out fisher. On both boats, access is through a transom gate on the starboard side. There is a small bathing platform either side of the outboard, the starboard one has a bathing ladder mounted on top. Useful for easy access, but a little in the way during everyday use.

The middle section of the transom consists of a large flat area, useful for baiting up or rigging your tackle. This section hinges on gas struts to allow the engine to be fully tilted. On the port side

The bow offers a practical area for fishing, working, or just watching the world go by

of the transom, both models incorporate a bait well and, as you would expect, there are a pair of transom mounted rod holders.

Depending upon your preferences, and which model you chose, the cockpit can be a large empty open space, or kitted out with plenty of optional modular seating, in fact enough to turn the area into a double sunpad if required. The transom seat provides large wet storage underneath while the port side seating folds out from the side when required and tucks away unobtrusively when it isn’t. On the single door model there is another fold out seat on the aft end of the wheelhouse, while on the two door version this is given over to a sliding entry door into the interior. A cockpit table can turn this area into a family sized alfresco dining room. A hatch in the cockpit floor lifts to reveal a large storage area, plus access to the boats batteries, fuel tank, saltwater wash down sea cock and fuel filter. A small wheelhouse roof overhang doesn’t offer much in the way of protection to the cockpit, but it does include a very useful light and, of course, a handy mounting point for a further five

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Two versions of the forward cabin, with and without a separate toilet compartment

rod holders.

Access forward is best achieved via the starboard side deck, which is sunken as far as the front of the wheelhouse where it then takes two steps up into the bow. The port side deck is raised from the cockpit forward and, while not as wide, still offers a very usable deck to work from, should you find yourself moored port side to. One of the options, most likely to find itself fitted to the two door version, is a second helm station in the cockpit, mounted to the starboard quarter of the wheelhouse.

Up front the bow area provides a safe place to do a bit of up tide fishing, but can

“Having a separate toilet compartment on a small boat is a very welcome feature�

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PERFORMANCE As tested 65% fuel, 10% water, 4 crew, Force 2 RPM

Idle 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000 5500

also be a comfortable and sociable area when moored or at anchor. A nice double bench seat in front of the wheelhouse, and a pair of cushioned seats on the bow means a family of four can be accommodated at this end as easily as they can aft.

An open section in the pulpit rail, together with a well thought out section to grab hold of, provides access over the bow, perhaps to help when launching and recovering. The anchor locker below is a good size for a little boat.

Inside there are some considerable differences between the two models. The single door version can only be accessed by the sliding door next to the helm, but

Knots

LPH

GPH

MPG

2.5 3.6 5.4 6.5 7.5 9.6 13.1 19.9 23.5 26.9 31.7

1.8 2.8 4.5 7.3 11.0 17.2 21.9 25.0 34.5 41.0 52.5

0.40 0.62 0.99 1.61 2.42 3.78 4.82 5.50 7.59 9.02 11.6

6.0 5.8 5.5 4.0 3.1 2.5 2.7 3.6 3.1 3.0 2.7

Range (nm) 264 255 242 176 136 110 119 158 136 132 119

Noise (dB) 62 66 68 70 72 78 80 85 88 86 86

this allows Jeanneau to make use of the aft end of the wheelhouse for accommodation purposes, something that the two door version with its aft access cannot have.

On the single door version there is a large bench seat aft, above which is a large sliding window. Under the starboard section of seating there is an option of a 12 volt fridge,

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December 2014

The 150hp Yamaha provides good performance, and over 3mpg at cruising speed

“It delivered 31 knots and a no-nonsense experience” while lifting that cushion reveals a small sink with pressurised cold water. Under the port side you’ll find some storage, while lifting the middle section of seating out gives access to a floor locker where the boat’s water tank is mounted, plus a bit more storage.

Just in front of this seating, behind the helmsman’s seat, is a pole mounted table.

This can slide up to store out of the way against the wheelhouse roof or drop down to create a seating/dining area in the aft section of the wheelhouse. The helm and navigators bucket seats can swivel round to join in, although the helm seat is somewhat restricted by the pole. On our test boat the helm seat was not adjustable fore and aft.

Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

If it was modified to enable this it would provide both a slightly better driving position and possibly bring it a little more into play when it comes to socializing and eating in the wheelhouse.

Further light and ventilation to the wheelhouse are provided by an opening window on the port side and a sliding roof hatch above, the latter of which can be locked in position for added safety.

The helm is nice and simple, with enough space to mount a seven inch multi function display and a couple of other instruments.

Like many wheelhouse boats, there is also a panel overhead for mounting further instrumentation if required. Headroom at the helm is 6ft 6in while the rest of the

81

wheelhouse offers just two inches less.

The forward cabin is different depending upon which model you choose. In the single door version you get an offset berth, best described as a small double or generous single, and you get a separate toilet compartment. The whole area offers sit down headroom only, but nevertheless, a separate toilet compartment on a small boat will be very welcome when privacy is required. On the two door model there is no separate toilet compartment. Instead the whole front cabin is given over to seating/ There is a small table and ample seating for four in the wheelhouse berth area, although you do still get a portable toilet beneath the starboard side the intention. Heading into the conditions bunk.

I did need to work the throttle to ensure the hull delivered a comfortable ride, but Underway by doing so I was easily able to keep up a We drove the 695 with a 150hp Yamaha 20+ knot cruising speed, which was quite in some reasonably testing conditions. surprising, given such a short waterline It was blowing a force 3-4 with a large length. The driving position is ok, although swell. The boat is capable of taking up to 175hp but the 150 felt more than powerful I would have liked to be able to slide the enough, even with our complement of four seat forward so that the backrest could do its job a little better. The lifting bolster of on board. The boat pulled well, it turned the seat means that standing helming was responsively and delivered a no nonsense good, and of course this also helped when experience. It is not going to set your hair moving into and out of the wheelhouse. on fire, but then I am sure that was never

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Visibility was good with just small blind spots on the aft corners, and was even better on the two door version with its full height glass doors aft. With all the doors shut sound levels were surprisingly low.

Conclusion The 695 Marlin is a very capable little boat.

While both models are ideally suited to fishing, the two door version probably lends itself to this activity even more so than the single door boat. Overnighting is possible, although I wouldn’t imagine it being a regular occurrence, and the sink, toilet and dinette add enough facilities to allow you to stay out on the water for

A sink is hidden under the aft wheelhouse seating

as long as you want. Add the non Marlin version into the mix and there really is a 695 for everyone. You just have to decide where your cruising/fishing priorities lie and pick accordingly.

ENQUIRIES: Morgan Marine Tel: 01206 302003 www.morganmarine.com YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

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Finnmaster Pilot 7

Parker 660

LOA:7.39m Beam: 2.64m Displacement: 1877kg ex eng Enquiries: Fox’s Yachts 01473 694694 www.foxsyachts.co.uk

LOA: 6.9m Beam: 2.65m Displacement: 1350kg ex eng Enquiries: Bosuns Locker 01313 314496 www.bosuns.co.uk

LOA: 6.6m Beam: 2.5m Displacement: 1400kg ex eng Enquiries: Sussex Boat Shop 01903 713684 www.sussexboatshop.co.uk

Very similar in design, the slightly larger Beneteau is available with engines up to 200hp.

PRICE from £43,131

A Scandinavian alternative with an open plan interior and basic toilet and galley facilities.

PRICE from £47,400

Polish built and available in pilothouse or weekend versions with cockpit/cabin space adjusted accordingly.

PRICE from £30,556

> NEXT MONTH Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

Flipper 880 ST

83

PENTON HOOK MARINE SALES www.thamesboatsales.co.uk USED BOATS

NEW Sealine S330 £196,800 January delivery. Single Volvo Penta D6 330hp. Lots of extras

NEW Sealine F380 £340,000 May Delivery. Huge specification Twin Volvo Penta D4 Diesels

NEW Sealine S380 £257,000 May delivery Twin Volvo Penta D4 Diesels

2012 Fairline Squadron 42 £369,500 Twin Volvo D6 370hp Diesels

2009 Jetten 37AC £155,950 Single Yanmar 75hp Diesel.

Great specification

2009/10 Sealine SC35 Choice of 2 from £154,950 Both 2010. Great specifications

2009 Sealine SC29 £89,950 Twin Volvo Penta D3 190hp Diesels.

Well specified and clean example

Westwood A35 Choice of two. From £129,950 Good accommodation & use of space

1991 Broom 33 £87,500 Twin Volvo Penta 200hp Diesels Incredibly spacious and practical

2003 Sealine S23 £31,950 Single 170hp Diesel. Well equipped, economical and comfortable

2005 Marex 280 £59,950 Price Reduced Single Yanmar 76hp Practical sea and river cruiser

1989 Fairline Turbo 36 £74,950 Twin Volvo Penta 306hp Diesels.

High specification

Leather upholstery, full nav package

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Distributors for

Tel: 01932 570055 sales@pentonhooksales.co.uk

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www.thamesboatsales.co.uk

Click here for full listings at Penton Hook Marine Sales

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P/

1993 Sealine 310

1983 Fairline Turbo 36

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C

X

P/

2x Volvo Penta 4.3 GS Petrols - £39,950 Contact Windsor Racecourse

o

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2007 Regal 2665

2009 Glastron GT249

2002 Stevens 1180s

Single Mercruiser 5.0L Petrol - £25,950 Contact Thames & Kennet

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UC

D RE

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1989 Atlanta 27

1986 Princess 412-2

2x Volvo TAMD 60C Diesels - £65,950 Contact Upton

id ns

1x Volvo Penta D4 260hp Diesel - £44,950 Contact Windsor Racecourse

2x Volvo Penta TAMDS31 Diesels - £175,000 Contact Thames & Kennet

2x Volvo AQ131 Petrols - £14,950 Contact Walton

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1994 Fairline Targa 28

2x Mercruiser 4.3lx 205hp Petrols - £44,950 Contact Windsor Racecourse

2x Volvo Penta TAMD 60B Diesels - £59,950 Contact Thames & Kennet

id ns

1996 Broom Ocean 29

ed

2011 Jenneau Marlin 6

Single Volvo MD22l-A - £59,950 Contact Walton

Single Suzuki 70hp Outboard - £22,950 Contact Walton

2008 Amber Barge 60 WB

2002 Bayliner 245SB

Single Barrus Shire 65hp Diesel - £95,000 Contact Upton

1981 Princess 30DS

2x Volvo Penta AQ145A Petrols - £26,950 Contact Thames & Kennet

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sid

on

C

1999 Atlantic 38

2x Volvo Penta 318hp Diesels - £149,950 Contact Windsor Racecourse

Single Mercrusier 5.0L Petrol - £23,995 Contact Upton

Extensive Selection of New & Pre Owned Boats for Sale

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2005 Monterey 250

Single Yanmar 240hp Diesel - £38,950 Contact Walton

1999 Four Winns 258 Vista

Single Volvo 5.7L V8 Petrol - £18,500 Contact Upton

We have over 140 boats to choose from at seven different locations

SCAN HERE to view our boats for sale

www.tingdene.net Pyrford Marina

Tel (01932) 343 275 River Wey, Surrey

Thames & Kennet Marina

Tel (01189) 477 770

Brundall Bay Marina

Tel (01603) 717 804 Norfolk Broads

River Thames, Caversham Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

Walton Marina

Tel (01932) 221 689 Walton on Thames

Racecourse Marina, Windsor

Tel (01753) 851 717

Upton Marina

Tel (01684) 593 111 Upton upon Severn

River Thames, Windsor

Stourport Marina

Tel (01299) 827 082 Stourport on Severn

79

Owners Directory i Arvor Boat Owners Club

Electric Boat Association

www.arvorboatowners.co.uk

www.electric-boat-association.org.uk

Atlanta Boat Owners

Elysian Boat Owners

www.atlantaboats.co.uk

www.elysianboats.co.uk

Bavaria Owners’ Association

Fairey Owners Club

www.bavariaowners.co.uk

www.faireyownersclub.co.uk

Bayliner Owners Club

Fairline Owners Club

Beneteau Owners’ Association

Fjord Club

www.baylinerownersclub.org

www.fairlineownersclub.com

www.beneteau-owners-association.org.uk

www.fjordclub.com

Birchwood Boat Owners Forum

Fletcher Owners Club

birchwoodboatowners.myfreeforum.org

fletcher-boats.co.uk/your-fletcher/owners-club

Broom Owners Club

Freeman Cruisers Forum

www.broomowners.com

freemanboats.forumer.com

Chaparral Boat Owners Forum

Freeman Owners Club

Classic Motor Boat Association

Freeman Cruisers

forum.chaparralboats.com

www.cmba-uk.com

Cleopatra Owners Club mycleopatra.ning.com

www.freemancruisers.com

freeman-cruisers.forumotion.co.uk

Haines Owners Club www.hainesmarine.co.uk/owners.php

Coronet Cruisers

Hampton Safari Boat Club

freespace.virgin.net/simon.sherlock/index.htm

hamptonsafaribc.webplus.net

Cranchi Owners Club & Forum

Hardy Owners Club

cranchiownersclub.com

Dawncraft Owners Club & Forum www.dawncraftowners.com

86

www.hardy-owner.org.uk

Mariah Owners Club www.mariahownersclub.com

December 2014

Maxum Owners Club

Sealine Forum

www.maxumownersclub.com

www.sealineforum.co.uk

Microplus Boats

Sealine Owners Club

www.microplus.dk

www.sealineowners.com

Monterey Fourm

Seamaster Club

forums.montereyboats.com

www.seamasterclub.co.uk

Moonraker Owner’s Club

Seaward Owners Club

www.moonraker.dk/eng_index.htm

Nauticus www.nauticus.co.uk

Nelson Boat Owners Club

www.nelsonboatownersclub.co.uk

Nimbus Owners Club UK www.nimbusowners.co.uk

Norman Appreciation Society www.normanboats.co.uk

Princess Owners Club princessownersclub.com

www.seawardboat.com/club.html

Shetland Owners Association www.shetlandowners.co.uk/shetland/

Star Craft Owners Club www.bates-starcraft.co.uk

Sunseeker Owners Club sunseekerownersclub.com

Viking Owners Club

www.vikingowners.org.uk

Warrior Boats Owners Club

www.warriorboatsownersclub.co.uk

Regal Owners Forum

@

www.regalownersforum.com

Relcraft Boaters Group www.relcraftboatersgroup.co.uk

Rinker Owners Club www.rinkerboats.com/owners-club

Sea Ray Owners Club

www.clubsearay.com

Owners Club missing? contact us at

editorial@motorboatowner.co.uk

Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

87

L K what I saw

Spotted something weird, wonderful, or interesting on your travels?

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send your images to us at

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motorboatowner.co.uk

On ya bike!

I pulled this up on my anchor in Normandy SPOTTED! by Richard Poat

We all live in a Yellow Submarine Interesting liveaboard at Walton on Thames SPOTTED! by Nathan Williams

The Autumn leaves

The colours of Autumn in Henley-on-Thames SPOTTED! by Pauline Haynes

Fishermans Friend?

Naughty but novel. Fishing boat tied up to a buoy SPOTTED! by Ben Simpkins 88

December 2014

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Motorboat Owner

89

Winterise

W interising is the act of protecting your

boat and its equipment and contents from the ravages of the winter weather. Failing to carry out any preparation for winter can result in expensive damage to the engine, domestic water system and even your soft furnishings. The requirement to carry out any winterising will depend largely on whether you keep your boat in fresh water or salt and how far north you are in the UK. If you keep your boat in fresh water I would say that it is almost imperative to carry out some basic

YOUR BOAT

winterising. With salt water the need isn’t quite so great because salt water freezes at a lower temperature than fresh, typically around –2°C. Damage is caused by water expanding as it freezes, and this expansion can crack even a solid iron engine block.

I know that many people on the south coast who keep their boat in salt water do not carry out any winterising at all, and for the most part will get away with If we get another winter like this, will your boat be protected?

www.stuhaynes.co.uk

PRACTICAL

HOW TO

18

December 2013

BY NEALE BYART Paul & Sandra Field

it, but is not unheard of for damage to occur even here, so I would suggest a little bit of preventative work is well worth doing to save the worry and, even remote possibility, of a large repair bill.

The complete process of winterising and protecting the boat can be broken down into a number of different jobs. The most important is winterising the engine as this is where the most expensive damage can occur. Next comes the domestic water system which, because it is full of fresh water, is the most prone to damage when the temperature dips. Although tales of engine damage are thankfully quite rare, possibly because most owners do take some precautions, stories of damage to the boats freshwater supply are far more common and I have personally been caught out with this one. Next comes the interior of the boat. There are some simple steps to take to ensure the soft furnishings see it through the winter unscathed. You can simply take them home and store them, you can ensure the boat has good ventilation to keep mildew at bay or you can go the high tech route and use some form of dehumidifier. The last section is the boats exterior. It is a good idea to give the boat a wash and a coat of good quality wax at the beginning of winter as it will protect the gelcoat from airbourne contaminates and any UV over winter, meaning re-commissioning in spring should require nothing more than a quick wash and a recoat of wax.

While you are on the boat and in your work clothes you may want to consider carry out some servicing. This is not strictly winterising but fits in well with it and will, in a small way, help to protect the

Freezing water can split metal, this is a damaged tap but it could be your engine

boat over winter. A freshly serviced engine means that the boat is ready to go in the spring, it has nice clean oil protecting the engine’s inner workings, it’s a great opportunity to use up your existing engine spares and order some new ones for next season, but most importantly, it gives you lots of time to deal with any problems that might show up during a service. The sort of thing we are referring to is finding water in your outdrive oil, or worse still in your engine oil. Find a problem like this in the spring and you will be hard pressed to secure the services of a decent engineer as this is their busiest time, so you are likely to start eating into your season while waiting for repairs. Find a problem before Christmas and, expense aside, getting the repair carried out should be painless and most importantly, completed in time for the start of next season.

So, how do you winterise a boat? Simply follow the steps detailed on the next few pages, or at least the ones that are relevant to your boat, and you can relax knowing that regardless of what mother nature throws at us in the coming months, your boat will remain safe and serviceable as soon as spring has sprung.

Motorboat Owner Š Digital Marine Media Ltd

19

PRACTICAL

HOW TO IN 9 STEPS

PART 1

The Engine

If your engine is fresh water cooled the block itself should be protected with antifreeze already so you just need to displace the raw water that is trapped in the heat exchangers with an antifreeze mixture. Raw water engines will need an antifreeze solution run right through the engine so will need running up to temperature first.

1

On a freshwater cooled engine the captive antifreeze mix should be changed every two years. Change it, or if it not due, check the strength to ensure it is up to the job.

4

On a stern drive boat you have a choice of feeding the antifreeze mix through the leg via a set of muffs, or taking an inlet pipe off inside the boat. Check first that the hose is not below the waterline if still afloat.

2

Mix a solution of antifreeze and water at a ratio of 1:1.

Around five litres of mixture is usually enough per engine so a 5 litre container of antifreeze should be enough for most twin engine boats.

5

Outboards often have a flushing port which you can use to introduce an antifreeze mix. Alternatively use a pair of muffs or simply lower the leg into a container filled with an antifreeze mix.

3

On a shaft drive boat close the seacock and remove the raw water strainer cap. Pour the mix into the strainer with the engine running and shut the engine off just as the mix runs out.

6

Antifreeze is toxic so it should not be allowed to enter the water or soak into the ground. Try and catch the expelled antifreeze mix in a bucket. If this is not possible consider using nontoxic polyethylene glycol.

20

December 2013

7

8

An alterative to inhibiting an engine with antifreeze is to drain it. Check your owner’s manual for the drain points on your engine and follow the instructions carefully to ensure you remove all of the raw water.

Once the engine is inhibited remove the impeller and store it for the winter to reduce distortion. Replace the pump faceplate if the boat is staying afloat to reduce the chance of water entering the engine room.

9

Place a sign on the helm to advise that the engine should not be started due to winterisation. This could also remind you to replace the impeller and open the seacock if required.

HOW TO IN 9 STEPS

PART 2

Domestic water systems

As previously mentioned the domestic water system is most prone to frost damage. You can inhibit it with a non-toxic antifreeze but we recommend simply emptying the system completely to remove any threat of expansion damage.

1

Drain your domestic water tank to remove as much water as possible by running a tap. There will always be a small amount of water remaining in the bottom of the tank but this won’t cause a problem.

2

Remove the connections from your domestic water pump. Using a dinghy pump blow back through the inlet hose to ensure there is no water trapped in the hose from the tank to the pump.

3

Open one tap at a time and blow water through the pumps outlet pipe until only air comes out of the tap, then close the tap. Do this to each tap, both hot and cold not forgetting any cockpit or transom mounted taps.

Motorboat Owner Š Digital Marine Media Ltd

21

PRACTICAL

4

Remove the water pump filter and empty any water trapped inside. This is also a good opportunity to clean the filter element. Now open all of the taps and leave them open.

7

Manual toilets should be pumped on the dry setting to remove any water from the pump body, as these have been known to crack when water inside freezes.

5

Most of the water in the calorifier will have been blown through, but if yours has a drain cock, open it and drain the last of the water out. If you have a gas water heater open the drain valve.

8

To keep the seals and valves lubricated you could pour a little vegetable oil down the pan as you are excavating the water in step 7.

6

If you have any shower sumps on board, ensure they are empty. If necessary remove the lid and mop it out. Again this is a good opportunity to clean the pump filter inside.

9

If you have grey or black water tanks, pump them out and leave them as empty as possible.

Many owners like to bung up exhaust and ventilation ports. This is fine but make yourself a note to remove them in the spring.

22

December 2013

HOW TO IN 9 STEPS

PART 3

Other jobs

These jobs are really more a mixture of preventative maintenance, servicing and good practice rather than strictly winterising, but it makes good sense to consider doing them while you are on a roll.

1

Using a good corrosion protection product, give the engines, mechanicals and any exposed electricals a good spray. You can also grease any movable linkages and squirt some grease into any grease points.

4

A dehumidifier will really help to keep the boat dry.

You can use chemical ones if you have no power, but an electric version does a much better job. Put it on a timer for around 6 hours a day to save electricity.

2

With diesel boats, fill the tanks to the brim to reduce condensation problems.

Petrol fuel tanks are best left completely empty, or if this is impractical, add some fuel stabiliser to keep the fuel fresh.

5

Change the engine oil so that the internal components of the engine are coated in clean contaminant free lubricant.

It is also an opportunity to check for major problems such as water in the oil.

3

A good coat of wax all over the boats exterior should help see it into the new season with a shine and will certainly make the first wash of the year much easier.

6

It’s the same with gearbox oil on sterndrive and outboard legs. It’s not uncommon to find water in here and you don’t want that water sloping around your gears all winter.

Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd

23

PRACTICAL

7

9

8

Check your props for damage. Like good engineers, the people who refurbish propellers get very busy in spring so get in early if required.

Check your safety equipment. Items such as lifejackets, liferafts, PLBs, EPIRBs and fire fighting equipment all have service requirements. Winter is a good time to get this done.

Check the electrolyte levels in your batteries, top up if required and ensure that the batteries are fully charged if they are going to be left idle for any length of time.

What about leaving the boat in commission?

Q&A

If you are planning on using the boat throughout the winter, inhibiting the engine and domestic water supply after each use is going to be costly and time consuming. The easiest thing to do with the domestic water system is simply not use it. Take bottled water on board and use the marina facilities.

If you do need to use it, perhaps see if you can decommission the most susceptible parts such as transom and cockpit outlets. If you have reliable shorepower you can put some greenhouse tube heaters in the engine room to keep frost at bay and prevent engine damage. Rather than simply running them 24/7, consider plugging them into a thermostat set at around

3°C so that they only come on when the temperature is getting close to freezing. You should consider blocking up the engine room vents too to help keep any warmth in. Just remember to remove the plugs before starting up. If you are going to be reliant on electric to stop your boat from freezing it is a good idea to invest in some kind of shorepower monitor that will alert you if someone unplugs your boat, or if the power supply fails. This winter we are going to be using a SIM card enabled socket called the Thermotxt from a company called Tekview, we’ll let you know how we get on.

24

December 2013

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