EAT

REVIEW: MATÉ

Argentinian flair makes its mark on Saadiyat...

Argentinian cuisine is somewhat under-served in Abu Dhabi, with few venues delivering the level of South American flair we pine for on a Saturday night. That was until Maté opened its doors in Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi. The Saadiyat spot offers guests a large space to enjoy authentic dishes from Argentina, fused with a Lebanese twist. Split over two floors, the upper level is home to a lounge area and bar with a huge wine cellar, while downstairs, guests are greeted with an open wood-fire kitchen blazing away and tables sat under prints of Argentinian public figures.

The meal starts strong with starters arriving quick to the table, served piping hot. It’s difficult to choose which of the empanadas (Dhs35 per pc) are better, so we recommend you order both the beef and the cheese. The goldenbrown pasties are crunchy and fresh, with just the right amount of pastry. Aged cheddar, oregano and caramelised onion make up the meat-free option, while wagyu beef, raisins and olives fill the other. We also try the asado croquetas (Dhs65), which comes as four pieces. Gone within two bites, each one is beautifully flavourful and bursting with juicy, slow-cooked beef, lightly fried and topped with a creamy paprika sauce. They are like golden nuggets of goodness, and we’re seriously tempted to reorder.

Mains include even more meat, although vegetarians have a couple of options to choose from, too. Under strong recommendation from our server, we opt for the costillas al asador (Dhs195 for a half portion, Dhs350 for a full portion). Essentially, it’s short ribs slow cooked on the open fire, which should mean for very tender meat. However, after fighting through thick slabs of fat, the meat we did try had nearly all of the moisture sucked from it, making for a soft but less than enjoyable texture. The entrańa (Dhs175) was a better choice – wagyu inside skirt with a marbling score of six. Served perfectly pink in the middle with a roasted half-garlic on the side, we’d sooner recommend this cut for steak fans. A selection of traditional desserts is available, but for us, the winner was torta balcarce (Dhs70). The sublime combination of dulce de leche, meringue, caramelised walnuts and coconut ice cream ticks all the boxes when it comes to a sweet dish. The right amount of creamy, crunchy and sweet makes it an ideal way to finish the meal.

Maté, Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi, Sadiyaat Island, Abu Dhabi, daily 5pm to 1.30am. Tel: (0)54 581 2576. @parkhyattad WHAT’S ON VERDICT Representing a true taste of Argentina, Maté is a recipe for success in Abu Dhabi.

REVIEW: OII

Is it style over substance at Al Qana’s newest offering?

Mediterranean restaurants are popping up all over the capital, bringing baskets of still-warm bread drizzled with olive oil, menus of fresh seafood, earthy interiors and a soundtrack that if you close your eyes could sound like it’s heard over the sound of the lapping sea. The latest addition to that offering is Oii, which opened earlier this year in a wave of launches at waterfront destination, Al Qana.

While there might be no sounds of the waves to backdrop dining at Oii, when the floor-to-ceiling windows can be opened during the winter months, diners benefit from a pretty waterside setting. Alas, it’s still summer so we quickly retreat indoors but not before a longing gaze at the wooden tables dotted across the terrace alongside potted plants and rattan lamps. Once inside, our disappointment on missing out on alfresco dining evaporates as we see how pretty the interiors are. White stone walls, olive trees in large ceramic pots, and seats in linen coloured suede create an environment that feels warm and relaxing.

Our starters soon arrive, but Oii’s potato gnocchi (Dhs50) is the dish we like the least – despite each piece being soaked in a wild herb pesto, it’s too stodgy. The gambas pil pil (Dhs52) goes down much better, and a sizzling sauce of Calabrian chilli and garlic packs the perfect punch, so much so we mop up every last drizzle with the warm homemade focaccia. The peach caprese (Dhs60) wouldn’t have been our typical order, but comes highly recommended, so we give it a go. It’s the meal’s surprise hit: a peach cut in half and grilled is perfectly plated with neat drops of cucumber gazpacho and stracciatella creating the perfect balancing act between sweet and savoury.

When we move onto mains there’s a hefty focus on Portuguese and Greek dishes. The frango com piri piri (Dhs95) arrives as a whole grilled baby chicken with neat pearls of cous cous. It’s tasty but a little drier than we would typically like, so we add a squeeze of lemon and drizzle of salsa verde and enjoy the flavour combination.

From Oii’s dessert selection, don’t miss trying the clementine and almond cake (Dhs40), with a juicy, fruity sponge, zesty citrus caramel and whipped ricotta.

Before we leave, we’re invited for a ceremonial plate smashing, something we’ve witnessed all the guests around us try before departing. We can’t refuse. It’s a fun way to end an experience that has taken us to Santorini. Oii, Al Qana, Al Maqta, 9.30am to 11pm daily. Tel: (0)2 628 2983. @oiiabudhabi WHAT’S ON VERDICT A gorgeous Mediterranean restaurant with pretty views and plenty of potential.