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A MOTIVATE PUBLICATION

MARCH 2020

UAE DHS25 OMAN RO2.70 BAHRAIN BD2.60 KUWAIT KD2.10

emirateswoman.com

THE FASHION ISSUE THE NEW FACES THE ONES TO WATCH THE SS20 RUNWAY REPORT


Haute Joaillerie, place VendĂ´me since 1906

The Dubai Mall - Dubai Opera Plaza - Mall of the Emirates - The Galleria Al Maryah Island 800-VAN-CLEEF (800-826-25333) Etihad Towers +971 2 681 1919 www.vancleefarpels.com


PerlĂŠe Collection Rose gold, yellow gold and diamond rings and bracelets.


x


2 HOU R DEL I V ERY W I T H I N DU BA I

T HE DEFI N I T I V E HOME OF LU X U RY

OUNASS.COM


EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Obaid Humaid Al Tayer MANAGING PARTNER AND GROUP EDITOR Ian Fairservice EDITOR/ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Amy Sessions FASHION AND BEAUTY EDITOR Natalie Westernoff SENIOR EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Cecilia D’Souza SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Olga Petroff ART DIRECTOR T. Prasadan DIGITAL STYLE EDITOR Diana Bell-Heather DIGITAL NEWS REPORTER Fatma Abusief DIGITAL FEATURES WRITER EMIRATES WOMAN ARABIYA Diyana Hakmi WEB DEVELOPER Firoz Kaladi GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION S Sunil Kumar ASSISTANT PRODUCTION MANAGER Binu Purandaran PRODUCTION SUPERVISOR Venita Pinto CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER Anthony Milne GROUP DIRECTOR Andrew Wingrove PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Carlos Pedroza GROUP SALES MANAGER Bindu Gupta bindu@motivate.ae SENIOR SALES MANAGER Neha Kannoth neha.kannoth@motivate.ae GROUP CREATIVE SOLUTIONS MANAGER Kelli Maddock kelli@motivate.ae CONTRIBUTORS Michaela Williams

HEAD OFFICE Media One Tower, Dubai Media City, PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE, Tel: (+971) 4 4273000, Fax: (+971) 4 4282261, E-mail: motivate@motivate.ae DUBAI MEDIA CITY Office 508, 5th Floor, Building 8, Tel: (+971) 4 3903550 Fax: (+971) 4 3904845 ABU DHABI PO Box 43072, UAE, Tel: (+971) 2 6772005 , Fax: (+971) 2 6770124, E-mail: motivate-adh@motivate.ae LONDON Acre House, 11/15 William Road, London NW1 3ER, UK, E-mail: motivateuk@motivate.ae Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai


CALIBER RM 037


Editor’s letter

Welcome to The Fashion Issue. This month, Emirates how buying Hermès is the equivalent of owning stock Woman compiles the designers you should know in The in The Fashion Stock Market (pg 74). Ones to Watch (pg 30) from Australia’s Christopher Critically acclaimed artist and director Sam TaylorEsber to New York’s Peter Do and Johnson shares her exclusive edit we consider who is carving out a at Matches Fashion and discusses name for themselves with sharp her work (pg 86), as well as how THIS MONTH, EMIRATES tailoring and clever cuts. We also moving to LA changed her style. WOMAN COMPILES THE deliver a round-up of the strongest Speaking of style, we also gain DESIGNERS YOU SHOULD looks for SS20 in The Runway insight into Moda Operandi’s key KNOW AND THE ONES TO Report (pg 37) where handicraftplayers and how they dress for WATCH FROM AUSTRALIA’S inspired pieces take centre stage work in The New Uniform (pg 70). CHRISTOPHER ESBER TO for beachside appropriate dressing Healthy Habits (pg 164) NEW YORK’S PETER DO whether you’re Mykonos-bound shows us that self-improvement or beyond, Bottega Veneta leads isn’t just about will power, and as the charge for the oversized bag, great skin is always in fashion, we the shape to invest in this season. We find out what it explore the world of retinol (pg. 140) and ask how early takes for a bricks and mortar store like Browns Fashion is too early to start? The first EVER double cover in to not only survive, but thrive in the current retail the 40 year history of Emirates Woman. Welcome to a market in The Secret to Browns Survival (pg 52) and new exciting era.

Amy Sessions EDITOR / ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

T H E H E R O B U YS

Aviator metal sunglasses Dhs1,195 Bottega Veneta at Matches Fashion

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emirateswoman.com

XXL gold necklace Dhs1,900 Loren Stewart at Net-A-Porter

Hunter paneled leather straight-leg pants Dhs5,100 Petar Petrov

The Pouch large leather clutch Dhs9,445 Bottega Veneta

Resurrection Aromatique Hand Balm Dhs105 Aesop


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© 2020 Chloé SAS, all rights reserved.

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Contents MARCH 2020

60

LENA SIMONNE The fashion industry’s new face

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DUBAI MALL MALL OF THE EMIRATES ETIHAD TOWERS THE GALLERIA AL MARYAH TOMFORD.COM


Contents MARCH 2020

Runway report p.37

27

37 FASHION The runway report SS20 p.37 One on one with Gucci’s Alessandro Michele p.46 The secret to Browns’ Survival p.52

THE MONITOR Fashion accounts to follow this month p.27 Fashion news p.28

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Daniel Lee, the man behind the Bottega Veneta buzz p.56 How the Moda Operandi team dress p.70


Contents MARCH 2020

30

ONES TO WATCH The designers you need to know

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WHERE DIVERSITY UNITES

CREATED AT DRIFT BEACH, DUBAI

800 4360

MARINAHOMEINTERIORS


Contents MARCH 2020

Boldy go p.146

74

132 139 164 OUR DOUBLE COVER

JEWELLERY Pandora’s burst of spring p.104

Inside Prada’s pop-up private club p.90 Wes Gordon is spreading joy and colour at Carolina Herrera p.102 Full spectrum at Olivia Rubin p.109

Innovative Middle Eastern jewellery designers on our radar p.132 Be inspired by regional artists at Art Dubai p.136

Rihanna speaks to us about all things beauty p.144

Places to see and be seen at Fashion Week p.172

Hot new buys p.152

Hôtel Lutetia, Paris p.180

Oumaima shares her beauty secrets p.156 The most coveted runway beauty trends p.162

Luxe eats p.185 Five reasons to love The Marylebone, London p.84

MARCH 2020

Ultimate wellness memberships p.168

UAE DHS25 OMAN RO2.70 BAHRAIN BD2.60 KUWAIT KD2.10

Platform 09 supports and celebrates female designers p.130

All about skincare hero, retinol p.140

A MOTIVATE PUBLICATION

Sam Taylor-Johnson’s exclusive edit p.86

The benefits of healthy habits p.164

THE FASHION ISSUE THE NEW FACES THE ONES TO WATCH THE SS20 RUNWAY REPORT

EW_032020_P01_COVER.indd 1

THE FASHION ISSUE THE NEW FACES THE ONES TO WATCH THE SS20 RUNWAY REPORT

EW_032020_P01_COVER.indd 2

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26/02/2020 14:21

emirateswoman.com

MARCH 2020

Desert X in Saudi Arabia p.124

BEAUTY

UAE DHS25 OMAN RO2.70 BAHRAIN BD2.60 KUWAIT KD2.10

Fashion investments p.74

HEALTH & LIFE

A MOTIVATE PUBLICATION

FASHION...

Why Messika is rocking the status quo for diamond jewellery p.110

emirateswoman.com

26/02/2020 14:21


Social Listings

COMPLIED BY ARWA HAMED, IMAGES: SUPPLIED

A curated list of who to #follow this month

@area

@babyfist_

@Bevza

@christopher_esber

Area NYC was founded by Parsons School of Design graduates Piotrek Panszczyk and Beckett Fogg, who met while they each studying for their Masters degrees. Their union since has created a contemporary reworking of the styling favoured by Carrie Bradshaw or Michele Weinberger: a distinctly millennial glamour. Their references are from clubs glamour through the decades.

Founded by Palestinian designer and activist Yasmeen Mjalli, this brand empowers women to fight all forms of gender-based abuse, violence and oppression, its clothes carry messages of equality and empowerment. Mjalli is working with local manufacturers in Gaza in an attempt to rebuild its textile industry and donates 10% of proceeds from sales to Palestine

A contemporary womenswear label established by Svitlana Bevza in 2006, Kyiv, Ukraine. Its core design aesthetic is manifested through clean simple silhouettes. Bevza believes that the main tenant of beauty is simplicity. Sustainability is one of its main values; its eco-friendly digitally printed coats are the new alternative to fur. Gigi Hadid and Emily Ratajkowski are fans of the brand.

Australian designer Christopher Esber established his brand in 2010. Each garment has a subtle street sensibility in its tailored relaxed cuts, raw accents, and sports inspired finishes. His designs have mixed masculine and feminine codes reformed with a sophisticated approach. It has been worn by Zendaya multiple times in addition to other celebrity clients.

@cor_project

@gabwallerdotcom

@jeuxde.mains

@khaite_ny

Iraqi designer Yesawi, left Baghdad after Gulf War. With war remaining a forcibly close reality to him over the years, he used his designs in this label, as a cathartic expression and a call of remembrance to those living the violent reality of war. He supported Berber women and children in the Rif mountain region helped to craft the fabric for one of the shirts.

Working as a personal shopper and stylist in both Sydney and Los Angeles, Gabriel, 25, has in depth knowledge of the luxury market and a strong understanding of new season trends, and more importantly, where to source them irrespective of the ‘Sold Out’ tagline. She thrives off providing the highest level of personal service to each and every one of her clients.

Founded by Beirut-born Salim Cherfane in 2018, Jeux de Mains is a modern, fun brand. The idea of the brand is to make a unique imprint on each item of clothing that is literally infused with the designer’s being. Beyoncé sported this emerging Lebanese brand’s matching suit, featuring its trademark colour-block pattern in a palette of blue, burgundy, and pink

Founded in 2016 by creative director Catherine Holstein, KHAITE is a women’s ready-to-wear collection that reimagines classic American sportswear for the twenty-first century. Each piece proposes a fresh balance of opposing elements such as past and future, masculine and feminine, strength and softness. Katie Holmes stirred a major buzz in their design last year.

@mayaeco

@michaellosordo

@the.peterdo

@seekrefugeco

Maya is a Kuwait-based, eco-friendly online store featuring a collection of products and essentials for your everyday life journey. Each collection is sustainable, feminine and practical, and is always characterised by pure organic cotton, minimal designs, and a sense of style. Founded in 2016, Maya's brand consists of ladies clothing such as billowy dresses and blouses.

Sordo began his career after a successful graduate collection in Sydney in 2006. He has dressed many Australian celebrities. Not to mention the time, in January last year, when Margot Robbie requested to wear one of his gowns to the Australian premiere of her film I, Tonya. A decade into his label, Lo Sordo stocks at Net-a-Porter and Selfridges amongst many.

Do is a nominee for 2020's Young Fashion Designers Prize. His brand is highly desirable, offering the type of effortless cool factor and modernist edge undercut. Do built his brand through social media, providing fans and buyers alike behind-the-scenes insights. He closed the season with half a million dollars in sales and orders from top retailers like Net-a-Porter.

Founded in 2017 by Pakistani-American Shazia Ijaz. The label came from Ijaz’s desire to empower Muslim women. It is also a social enterprise that helps other marginalised communities, like refugees; 10% of the label’s proceeds go to the International Rescue Committee. It offers denim jackets and sweatshirts, often branded with Arabic words .

THE MONITOR – NEWS

emirateswoman.com

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Changing the guard

FROM THE R U N WAY

Luxury online platform Net-A-Porter announced the latest set of lucky designers who will benefit from a unique mentorship program, The Vanguard. Among the designers selected is the IranianBritish handbag label S. Joon that will receive a comprehensive 360-degree guidance. Other brands that made it on the program this year are Christopher John Rogers, Gauchere, and Ioannes.

Jewellery doesn’t need to be made of diamonds to be precious. We saw shell parures at Prada, antique gold at Alexander McQueen and statement chokers at Gucci.

VANGUARD

PRADA

GUCCI

THREE TO OWN

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

1

Brunello Cucinelli’s python with monili coat was designed to make a statement,. This piece is a celebration of finest craftsmanship that will grab everyone’s attention. POA

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CELINE

2

Your everyday bag has had a chic update. The Triomphe canvas reprises the historic monogram from 1972, a link motif inspired by the chain encircling the Arc De Triomphe. Dhs3,792

MAJE

3

The irresistible scarf print has been interpreted into a maxi dress that is your perfect companion for weekend lunches and beach days. Style with neon pink pair of sandals and a raffia bag. Dhs1,420

THE MONITOR – NEWS

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN


Future Beauty

ON OUR READING LIST

Fashion Forward Dubai is back in April and as ever, it’s going to be full of surprises. For its 12th edition, the innovative platform is introducing a beauty element. The three-day event will feature an immersive, curated experience of shows, talks, entertainment, shopping, pop-ups and activations from leading local and international brands, with the central themes focusing on Ramadan edits and sustainability

No coffee table is complete without a chic fashion book. With numerous fabulous titles to choose from, we selected three that will inspire and make you think.

THE NEW BLACK VANGUARD: PHOTOGRAPHY BETWEEN ART AND FASHION BY ANTWAUN SARGENT, DHS 125

EZRA AT FFWD

WORDS: DIANA BELL-HEATHER IMAGES: SUPPLIED AND GETTY

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN BY CLAIRE WILCOX, DHS138

ST. MORITZ CHIC BY DORA LARDELLI DHS294 ASSOULINE

THE MONITOR – NEWS

emirateswoman.com 29


THE ONES TO WATCH WORDS:AMY SESSIONS

Who: Peter Do Where: New York, US @the.peterdo Shop now: net-a-porter.com

Having launched his namesake brand in 2014, Peter Do provides a uniform for the modern woman. Founded on precision tailoring and construction, Do combines this alongside fine textiles to harness luxury in every sense of the word. A LVMH Graduate Prize winner, his designs still bear reference to Phoebe Philo’s Céline which provided him finishing school of sorts, followed by a stint at Derek Lam. If you’re looking for cool clean lines that still feel elevated, look no further. We can’t wait to order FW20.

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FAS H I O N


Looking for ward this season, we celebrate some of the hottest emerging brands you’ll want to start investing in

Founded in 2014 by designers Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Pansczczyk in downtown New York, AREA has garnered a cult following with their modern and timeless take on beauty and glamour. AREA shares its name and spirit with the iconic 80s Manhattan nightclub, creating a playful yet decadent signature style.

Who: Area Where: New York, US @area Shop now: area.nyc, farfetch.com FAS H I O N

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Who: Harris Zhu Where: New York, US @ TBC with Z7 Shop now: net-a-porter.com

In 2018, designers Jia-Jia Zhu and London Harris were given the clearest crystal quartz during a trip to the Arizona desert This gift sprung the idea of a jewellery line and the duo haven’t looked back since. Their one-ofa-kind minerals are hand-selected for their unique beauty, energy and healing properties – we love the exclusive uncut pendants encrusted with diamond pavé.

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FAS H I O N


Who: Bevza Where: Kiev, Ukraine @bevza Shop now: bevza.com

Updated 90s minimalism is the modus operandi for Svitlana Bevza. Focusing on simplicity, the brand delivers exceptionally cut investment pieces designed to be worn for a lifetime, making it acceptably sustainable in addition. Founded 13 years ago, the brand shot to fame when Sophie Turner’s (Game of Thrones) married in a Bevza jumpsuit. Buyers the globe over now have Bevza marked on their watch list, as do we.

FAS H I O N

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Who: Christopher Esber Where: Sydney, Australia @christopher_esber Shop now: modaoperandi.com

One of our new hero buys, Esber is renowned for precision tailoring, and a forward thinking, innovative approach to textile development, structure and cut. For SS20, experimentation came in gradients of purple and shots of yellow. We’re excited to see what the coming seasons hold.

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FAS H I O N


Founded by sisters Ilona Hamer and Peta Heinsen, Matteau began with a swimwear collection and has rapidly grown to incorporate resort wear that is just as at home whether you’re dressing for summer in the city or beachside.

Who: Matteau Where: Sydney, Australia @matteau Shop now: matchesfashion.com

FAS H I O N

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Salvatore Ferragamo

T H E R U N WAY R E P O R T

SS20

WORDS: AMY SESSIONS

FAS H I O N

Altuzarra

Missoni

Proenza Schouler

Bottega Veneta

Valentino

Emilia Wickstead

The Row

Etro

Proenza Schouler

Bottega Veneta


T H E R U N WAY R E P O R T SS20

CRAFTWORK Homespun cool

Patchwork, embroidery, macramĂŠ and fringe detailing all added to an elevated rustic feel for summer. Ideal for bohemian island vibes and beyond. The hero brands: Stella McCartney, Missoni, Gabriela Hearst, Etro, Off-White.

Coat Dhs8,181 Gabriela Hearst

Missoni

Shorts Dhs1,850 Missoni Mare

Bag Dhs5,218 Jil Sander

Wear it with

From left: Necklace Dhs640 Harris Zhu; sandals Dhs3,344 Gucci; sunglasses Dhs1,234 ChloĂŠ; sandals Dhs735 Ancient Greek Sandals

FAS H I O N

Gabriela Hearst

Cardigan Dhs6,769 Etro

Off-White

Etro

Visor Dhs1,280 Missoni


T H E R U N WAY R E P O R T Altuzarra

SS20

Blazer Dhs9,804 Gabriela Hearst

Blazer Dhs10,650 Bottega Veneta

THE CEO

Helmut Lang

Stella McCartney

Soft power

Gentler shoulders made summer suiting feel fresh for SS20, both in and out of the office. Invest in an oversized blazer with a mannish cut if you want to try the trend on for size with ease. The hero brands: Stella McCartney, Proenza Schouler, Helmut Lang, Max Mara, Altuzarra, ChloĂŠ.

Trousers Dhs6,262 Gabriela Hearst

Max Mara

Proenza Schouler

Wear it with

From top: Sunglasses Dhs1,267 Loewe; sunglasses Dhs830 Givenchy; shoulder bag Dhs6,722 Givenchy


T H E R U N WAY R E P O R T SS20

Sandals Dhs1,730 Isabel Marant

Bikini top Dhs450 bikini bottoms Dhs512 both Melissa Odabash Shirt Dhs1,587 PatBO

HOT HOUSE Tropical prints

Lush foliage and exotic botanicals from far-flung climes were a strong source of inspiration across several runways for SS20. Our star buy? Bottega’s monkey-adorned pieces. The hero brands: Versace, Givenchy, Bottega Veneta, Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana.

Valentino

Kimono Dhs6,169 Figue

FAS H I O N

Versace

Bottega Veneta

From top: Bag Dhs5,804 Saint Laurent; heeled sandals Dhs3,364 Francesco Russo; sunglasses Dhs1,351 Bottega Veneta

Versace

Wear it with


T H E R U N WAY R E P O R T

Versace

SS20

Bustier top Dhs10,286 Alaïa Bustier Dhs3,085 Cushine

Gown Dhs5,465 David Koma

Blouse Dhs1,270 Sara Battaglia

STRUCTURE

Burberry

EmiliaWickstead

Precision Cuts

Strong shapes came in the form of corsetry and intricate cutouts for a subtle heroing of the female silhouette. We love Emilia Wickstead’s soft, unexpected approach.The hero brands: Saint Laurent, Mugler, Emilia Wickstead, Burberry, Gabriela Hearst, Versace.

From left: Earrings Dhs1,545 Versace; blazer Dhs6,504 Blazé Milano; trousers Dhs2,963 Dolce & Gabanna; sandals Dhs3,726 Tom Ford

FAS H I O N

Saint Laurent

Mugler

Wear it with


T H E R U N WAY R E P O R T SS20

SUMMER WEATHER LEATHER Light hues

Leather remains a staple for SS20, whether you opt for a Bermuda short as seen at Bottega Veneta or second skin, buttersoft separates as per Givenchy. The hero brands: Givenchy, Bottega Veneta, Proenza Schouler, The Row, Hermès. Bottega Veneta

Shirt Dhs1,590 Ganni

Top Dhs9,271 Bottega Veneta

Dress Dhs2,785 A.W.A.K.E Mode

Hermes

Clutch Dhs9.439 Bottega Veneta

Wear it with

Proenza Schoule

Trench Dhs32,725 Bottega Veneta

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Givenchy

FAS H I O N

From top: Glasses Dhs1,067 Stella McCartney; bag Dhs4,245 Givenchy; trainers Dhs1,541 Common Projects


Wear it with

The Row

Sunglasses Dhs1,471 Celine

Trousers Dhs1,289 Max Mara

90S

Bottega Veneta

From top: Pumps Dhs3,014 Balenciaga; bag Dhs6,904 Saint Laurent; ankle boots Dhs5,338 The Row

Clean lines

Taking things back to basics with a neutral colour palette and clean, minimal lines. Think nineties Calvin Klein given a modern update in the form of performance fabrics and clever cuts. The hero brands: Bottega Veneta, Helmut Lang, The Row, Salvatore Ferragamo, Prada.

Sandals Dhs3,321 The Row

Salvatore Ferragamo

Helmut Lang

Jacket Dhs17,299 The Row

emirateswoman.com 43


Shorts Dhs954 Nanushka

THE BIG SHORT Hemline play

A seasonable staple, the short was seen in every conceivable length from the thigh-skimming to longer length Bermuda and beyond. Safari-inspired pieces work just as well for an elevated city look as they do off-road. The hero brands: Valentino, Olivier Thyskens, LaQuan Smith, Isabel Marant, Etro.

From left: Shirt Dhs2,821 Prada; trench coat Dhs5,391 Wardrobe.NYC; tote Dhs5,592 Valentino; Gladiator sandals Dhs2,905 Valentino

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FAS H I O N

LaQuan Smith

Wear it with

Isabel Marant

Shorts Dhs12,098 Bottega Veneta

Olivier Theyskens

Valentino

Shorts Dhs4,816 The Attico


T H E R U N WAY R E P O R T SS20

Salvatore Ferragamo

Clutch Dhs9,417 Givenchy

Bag Dhs1,575 Kassl

XXL

Big bag game

Micro bags have been superseded by the one size fits all, oversized bag this season. If this trend is new to you and you’re still in need of some convincing, opt for an XXL beach bag and road-test this trend from the safety of a vacation. The hero brands: Off-White, Proenza Schouler, Salvatore Ferragamo, Lacoste, Bottega Veneta, Stella McCartney.

Bag Dhs13,735 Bottega Veneta

BottegaVeneta

From top: Sunglasses Dhs1580 Celine; trousers Dhs7,106 The Attico; necklace Dhs4,122 Sophie Buhai; heels Dhs3,349 Francesco Russo

Altuzarra

Lacoste

Wear it with

FAS H I O N

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GUCCI’S ALESSANDRO MICHELE ON HIS POWER PRINCIPLE

The Master

WO R D S:G U Y T R E B AY

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A

lmost five years to the month since the lightning strike that was Alessandro Michele’s debut at Gucci — an event that business schools will study for a long time to come — the designer found himself reflecting on his own inevitable obsolescence. “Maybe one day I will not be relevant,” Michele said on a bright Saturday afternoon at the Gucci Hub, located in a former aeronautics factory. “Maybe one day I will not be in fashion.” If the idea — and the vague rumours that inevitably attach to it — distressed the designer, it failed to show on his face. Dressed in faded jeans and Gucci sneakers, an 18th-century jeweled necklace tossed over his vintage cabled Aran sweater, he seemed bemused by all that had transpired since he, a one-time accessories designer for the brand, was elevated after news broke in 2014 that Frida Giannini, Gucci’s creative director, was being ousted. Few could have predicted from that first show of femme male models dressed in pussy bows and fur-lined slip-ons that Michele would so successfully capture the zeitgeist. That a creative vision he is the first to characterise as eccentric would drive a sluggish label to cultural centrality, and its parent global brand (Gucci is owned by the multinational Kering) to high double-digit growth. “In the beginning, when Marco had confidence in me,” Michele said, referring to Gucci’s president and chief executive officer, Marco Bizzarri, “I thought, maybe one day after the show I will be fired. But at the time, I had nothing to lose.”

F E AT U R E


Left: Alessandro Michele with Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto at the 2018 Met Gala

Michele has continued to operate on that principle, the designer said before his return to the Milan menswear schedule — after several seasons of the mixed-sex presentations that he was among the first to innovate. “I still think that in one month I will be fired,” he added. From the perspective of this observer, that seems like a stretch. Sure, Gucci sales are not at the stratospheric levels that made it the highest-selling Italian fashion brand. And the anti-sexist, anti-racist, gender-various, anti-ageist plurality platform, which Michele was among the first in fashion to embrace, has become an industry bandwagon (well, maybe not the anti-ageist part). Yet, not only because Michele now employs Mickey Mouse motifs on Gucci products, does he resemble Walt Disney in his gift for fusing high culture to the vulgar delirium of pop. Gucci was founded in 1921 by Guccio Gucci, a Florentine, to make leather goods for the carriage trade. Few such customers now exist. There is a minute number of very rich people, yes, and there are the legions who imagine that a double-G buckle slipped through their belt loops means they have arrived. What was the destination, again? “I started in this business 25 years ago, and I’m lucky because I’m still working by my stomach,” Michele said, meaning he is driven less by marketing than by instinct. Alessandro feels fashion. “At a certain point in the business, it was ‘Sell the bag, sell the bag, sell the bag’.” That, he said, was the point at which he found himself bored and depressed and looking for the exit. Then, as it happened, he sold the bag.

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F E AT U R E


GET YOUR KICKS Gucci dives back into the archives to unearth the Tennis 1977 sneaker

A

vailable in seven variations, Tennis 1977 sneakers feature in the brand’s #AccidentalInfluencer project. The images depict doppelgänger characters ‘accidently’ finding themselves wearing the same outfits. Captured by photographer and director Max Siedentopf, these groups of almost-clones are pictured as if by an amateur capturing candid moments on the street, on a bus, or at a café or fruit and vegetable store. The effect is hypnotic and haunting, suggesting improbable coincidences. Recalling an original retro tennis sneaker from the archives, the Gucci Tennis 1977 low-top is crafted in diverse canvas combinations and prints with a white rubber sole outlined with a green line, another line defining the sole. When the sneaker launched over forty years ago, the wearer was likely a jet setting tennis player, on courts from Florida to the French Riviera; while the sneaker wearer today is expected to cross city streets from Hangzhou to Hanoi. The Gucci Tennis 1977 comes in canvas in base colours and also in a variety of different, distinctive prints. This eclectic style for men and women combines a variety of elements from the House's heritage with a Gucci Tennis 1977 label that sits on the insole and the tongue: a textured GG motif on the bumper and outsole, and the House Web stripe in either green-red-green or blue-red-blue on the flanks.

F E AT U R E

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THE SECRET TO BROWNS’ SURVIVAL How one of the fashion industry’s best loved boutiques has weathered the storm WORDS: MELANIE ABRAMS

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O

ther retail hubs may be in distress, as New York increasingly resembles a retail desert, with Barneys in seemingly never-ending liquidation sales and Opening Ceremony closing its stores. But here in London, the ultimate multibrand boutique, Browns, is still going strong at 50. Sprawling along South Molton Street in a series of connected townhouses, the boutique was run by Joan Burstein (nicknamed Mrs. B) and her family until it was acquired by the luxury e-platform Farfetch in 2015. Known as the first place to stock styles by the likes of John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, the store has maintained its reputation for supporting new talent by, for example, collaborating on a capsule collection in 2018 with the London-based American designer Michael Halpern. To celebrate its anniversary, Browns plans to close its current location this summer and move to a four-floor site at 39 Brook Street. The new 887-square-metre store is to have

F E AT U R E


F E AT U R E

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IMAGE: BROWNS FASHION CEO HOLLI ROGERS


Laudomia Pucci, deputy chairwoman and image director, Emilio Pucci “The store had its own personality. It didn’t look like a supermodern store. It had its own charm and I thought that was nice, because it was the charm of the family and the personality of the family.” Osman Yousefzada,  a  London-based designer who founded his Osman label in 2008 “Mrs. B was a retailer at the end of the day and a lot of it was really about getting stuff that no one really had, and bringing it to London. She opened a series of shops for Ralph Lauren before anyone had it.” Simone Rocha,  a London designer who  sold her  fall 2012 collection, her first solo show, to Browns. She is a daughter of the designer John Rocha. “When I used to go to my father’s shows, I would always walk up to Browns and especially Browns Labels For Less, which is no longer there, because I was a teenager — probably looking for knitwear and shoes. It always had this prestige, but in a way that it wasn’t a department store. Browns was the quintessential English boutique at the time.” Pucci, on a visit to Browns “A few years back, maybe 10 years, I walked into the shop and saw some fun dolls made of fabric and rags. They were quirky and all different one from another. You weren’t sure what they were for. It was Mrs. B going out of her way to do something different, something that you like, doing it in an amusing way, She wasn’t for the obvious choices." Erdem Moralioglu, the London-based Canadian designer who began his Erdem label in 2005 “She had a way of looking at the collection and looking at every single piece and being so kind of methodical.” Ashish Gupta, founder of the Ashish label. His designs were first sold in Browns in 2001. “I made the wedding dress for Caroline Burstein, Mrs. B’s daughter, and the mother-of-the bride’s dress for Mrs. B. She was pretty specific about what she wanted. She knew what she wanted in her personal life and business life.” Pucci, on discussing a new collection with Burstein “She really took the time to express her thoughts and keep me on board and to encourage me to do better. She had a terrific sense of humour, which is very English in a way. She was asking me to do more work in a terribly amusing way. She was giggling, so I was laughing, too, in the end. I’ve not come across someone who could give constructive comments in such a clever way.” Mark Fast, creative director and founder of the London knitwear label that bears his name “I went to the Browns 40th anniversary dinner at Regent Lofts and Penthouses in May 2010. Lots of people were there. Sitting to my left was Mrs. B. Beside her was Sir Philip Green. Across from him was Oscar de la Renta. Then there was Hussein Chalayan and the other side of me was Sonia Rykiel’s daughter, Nathalie. Mrs. B spoke with everyone

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and made everyone feel welcome. She was like the queen. She stood up at one point and everyone gave her a round of applause and standing ovation.” Gupta, on inspiration “I came out at the end of my spring/summer 2017 show wearing a T-shirt that said ‘immigrant.’ It was just after the Brexit vote had happened. A Browns buyer rang up wanting the T-shirt. I didn’t think of doing it for sales because I just thought it would be a political statement but we ended up making about 200 T-shirts for them.” Ida Petersson, Browns’ men’s and womenswear buying director, who joined the company in 2016 “There is more at stake today than in the past because the industry is so much bigger today, even more than it was five years ago. If you don’t take risks or think outside the box, your company is never going to move on but you’ve got to play to win and take risks. Particularly if you stand for new designers. If you start to look at other people you lose momentum.” Marine Serre, the French designer who won the 2017 LVMH Prize “I don’t think you go to Browns if you just want the last trendy brand. You really want to go there, I feel, when you like garments and you like fashion.” Gupta, on the key to Browns’ success ”It’s having your finger on the pulse, isn’t it? It’s kind of knowing what people will want before they know they want it.”

IMAGE: BROWNS FASHION FOUNDER MRS BURSTEIN © 2020 THE NEW YORK TIMES COMPANY

space for rotating collections, pop-ups and a restaurant. (Its neighbours will be the swanky Claridge’s hotel and Handel & Hendrix in London, a museum that encompasses the home of the 18th-century composer Georg Frideric Handel and an apartment where Jimi Hendrix lived in the late 1960s.) But before that shift, fashion-world fans of Browns recalled why it mattered. And why it still does. (The interviews have been edited and condensed.)

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#Givenchy #Hepburn


BREAKING THE CURSE OF THE IT BAG Not to mention four fashion awards... Daniel Lee, designer for Bottega Veneta has a lot to prove WORDS:VANESSA FRIEDMAN

E D I T E D BY: A M Y S ES S I O N S

O

ne evening in early December 2019, Daniel Lee arrived at the Fashion Awards in London to see how his brand had fared. He won, a lot. Wearing a black Bottega tuxedo he sat at a table with the Bottega chief executive, Bartolomeo Rongone, and Bottega owner, François-Henri Pinault. Pinault is the chief executive of Kering, the French luxury group that includes Bottega as well as Gucci, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga, among other luxury pillar brands. Lee, who was 33 at the time (he turned 34 in January) had been at Bottega for only about a year and a half; he was the youngest and newest designer in the Kering stable. He had never been to a fashion awards ceremony, but he was nominated in four categories. He was feeling pretty good and also very nervous, because he does not like speaking in public. A few days before the event, the British Fashion Council, which runs the awards, had been in touch and suggested he prepare some notes, so he had a feeling he might win something. Then Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, the model who was presenting the brand of the year award, announced: “The winner is ... Bottega Veneta.” Lee was so excited he ran up to the stage and left his speech at the table. That turned out to be OK, though, because he had a second chance, when he won accessories designer of the year.

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He thanked his team, assumed he was done and thought he could relax. But then came the British designer of the year award, womenswear. Won by Daniel Lee. And then the designer of the year award. Won by Daniel Lee. “He was so embarrassed,” Pinault remembered a few weeks later. “He asked me if I would go up and get it for him.” (Pinault declined.) After all, no designer had ever won four awards in one night at the event. Not John Galliano or Alexander McQueen. Not Stella McCartney or Phoebe Philo or Christopher Bailey. Not any of the most famous, celebrated designers in the era of awards ceremonies. Was Lee, with all of two main collections shown (the second one not even in stores yet), really that good? Or was British fashion, disheartened and in flux amid Brexit, simply so desperate for a fairy tale it was kissing a frog and declaring him a king? Sometimes, being crowned the Next Big Thing is the worst thing that can happen to a designer. As Lee approaches the one-year mark after his first show, just as the annual results under his tenure roll in, he knows everyone will be wondering whether this is one of those times. “I don’t want to be a designer of just hype, but of longevity, so I feel a lot of pressure this year,” Lee said in late January, sitting in his office in Milan, wearing a black crew-neck sweater (Bottega), dark jeans (Bottega) and sneakers

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(Nike). Unlike his predecessor Tomas Maier, who was creative director from 2001 to 2018, but who was based in New York, Lee, who had been living in London, relocated to Milan after he got the Bottega job in June 2018. (He did keep his place in Britain). The hype was a reference to the awards, but also to the Pouch, a squishy clutch bag made from butter-soft leather crushed in the middle that feels kind of like a soft toy or a therapy dog. It was among the first products Lee made when he arrived at Bottega, and it was a phenomenon: an It bag when It bags were no longer supposed to exist.

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“It was the time when there was a lot of logos,” Pinault said. “Everyone was making a frame bag. Everyone said you needed to have a hand free to carry your phone and text or whatever. He absolutely went against the trend. He made this soft thing you had to carry instead of your phone. It was a brilliant idea.” In short order, the Pouch seemed to be everywhere. Reports came that it was sold out in all Bottega stores. (To be fair, most of the brand’s own stores hadn’t ordered many because it was so different from what had come before that they weren’t sure anyone would

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buy it.) They are still, Rongone said, “selling hundreds of Pouches per week.” Rihanna posted a video of herself on Instagram striding toward a pool while clutching her Pouch. Kylie Jenner and Phoebe Waller-Bridge were spotted with Pouches. Rosie Huntington-Whiteley put hers on Instagram 39 times in three months. (Paper magazine counted.) Influencers Arielle Charnas and Pernille Teisbaek posted multiple pictures of themselves with Pouches. According to Kering’s 2019 annual report, released this month, the Pouch was “the fastestselling bag in Bottega Veneta history.” It was followed not long afterward by aggressively square-toed leather slides with the trademark basket-weave intrecciato of the brand blown up to steroidal proportions, more bags, and quilted leather skirts and coats. By September, seemingly all of the fashion pack owned one or two Bottega pieces. At the Milan ready-to-wear show later that month, half of the front row was wearing the shoes or carrying a bag. A Bottega spokesman said that the brand did not give any products to influencers or celebrities and that this all happened because everyone loved the pieces so much, although he also admitted that the company did send some bags and shoes to editors as “thank yous” — and that the company did “occasionally gift close friends of the house.” He also suggested that some e-tailers, like Net-a-Porter, had deals with influencers to promote products on their sites and might have facilitated the acquisitions. If that sounds a bit like having your cake and eating it too, it is. However it happened, it worked. According to data from Lyst, the global fashion search engine, the Pouch was the fifth “hottest” women’s product in the second quarter of 2019 and is still being searched, on average, 240 times a day. After the September show, searches for Bottega Veneta shoes spiked 156%. This all helped Kering report Bottega revenues of 1.167 billion euros in 2019, a 2.2% increase from the year before — tiny compared to Gucci’s double-digit figures, but after three years of not entirely positive numbers, widely taken as a sign of a turnaround in reports by Citibank, Deutsche Bank and other industry analysts, especially because sales were up 9.4% in the fourth quarter. Overall, Rongone said, they were far above market projections. The irony of the Pouch is that Lee hadn’t even been hired as an accessory guy. In 2018, Pinault and Claus-Dietrich Lahrs, then the Bottega chief executive, had decided that if the brand were ever to move to the next level — and it already had revenues of 1.1 billion euros a year — Bottega had to become known not just for leather goods, which were responsible for approximately 80% of revenues, but also for its ready-to-wear. So after Maier left, they started looking for someone who was really good at clothes. Lee, whose family members, including two siblings,


are still in Yorkshire, in northern England, where he was born, does not have the typical origin story of a fashion phenomenon. He didn’t grow up dressing Barbies or dreaming of cabarets. He wanted to be a dancer, thanks to his grandmother (she is 87 and still goes to Pilates once a week), but then he discovered he had flat feet, and anyway, he was pretty academic. His parents — a mechanic and a secretary — had expected him “to do something like law or medicine.” He kind of stumbled into design after deciding he wanted to move to London. “Where I’m from is very green, very beautiful, but not so much energy,” he said. He was drawn to the mix of creativity and discipline in fashion — he likes the idea of seasonal deadlines — as well as its collaborative nature.

his ambition. Philo resigned just before Christmas 2017, and although it was suggested within Céline that Lee should replace her, he left in January. His plan, he said, was to take a year off and think, despite the fact almost every headhunter in fashion was calling. He made it as far as Japan. Then Pinault got in touch. Not that the Kering chief wanted another Céline (that was wishful thinking in the fashion world, in mourning after Philo’s departure). But he was interested in the clarity of that vision. Lee is “an Englishman, but he’s not eccentric,” Pinault said. “He’s more austere, minimal. He’s capable of thinking out of being British.” The thing Lee had — the thing Pinault saw, and the thing that also precipitated the Pouch — was a willingness to follow his nose about what was

© 2020 THE NEW YORK TIMES COMPANY

Daniel Lee, Creative Director – Bottega Veneta

At Central Saint Martins, where he did both his bachelor’s degree and master’s degree, Lee concentrated in knitwear and did internships with Giles Deacon, Margiela and Balenciaga under Nicolas Ghesquière. “He was very focused and committed and determined,” said Sarah Gresty, his tutor for two years of his B.A. (She is now the B.A. fashion course leader, and they are still close.) For his final-year fashion show, she said, he used money from an outside job to hire his own model, so his patterns would fit perfectly. After graduation, Lee worked briefly at Donna Karan before moving to Céline under Phoebe Philo, where he was hired as a member of the design team in 2013. By the time Pinault started hearing about him, he had been promoted to design director of all ready-towear collections, a leapfrogging to the semi-top that is a pretty clear reflection of the scale of

important, even if it had nothing to do with what was happening elsewhere in the fashion world. Pinault had seen the upside of that approach thanks to Alessandro Michele at Gucci, another unknown No. 2 who was named to the top of a brand, changed everything as he saw fit and has set the pace for fashion ever since. Lee came in to meet with Pinault on a Friday. On Sunday, Pinault offered him the job. So far the Bottega accessories have made a much bigger splash than the ready-to-wear, which has had a mixed reception. To date, it has involved a lot of leather in outsize blouson proportions and knitwear in clingier, artier

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forms. The first collection made the neck an erogenous zone; the second, the lower back. The clothes can be constructively tricky but are rarely decorative. Once you know what to look for, they are identifiable, but the signs are pretty insider at the moment. Still, BTS, the Korean boy band, wore Bottega menswear to the Grammys in January, so that could change. (The Bottega spokesman said their stylist bought the clothes.) Lee has stayed mostly behind the scenes, although he will do rudimentary press scrums after his show, where he often repeats the same catchphrase over and over and looks as if he were passing kidney stones. It is such a painful experience that, after the first show, Bridget Foley wrote in WWD: “Really pal? You’re 33, this is your runway debut at a major house owned by a toptier luxury group, and you’re too tired to parse out a one-liner about your clothes?” Lee knows he is “playing catch-up” on that part of the job. “If I never had to have a public presence, I would feel much more comfortable,” he said. He does not have his own social media accounts. “I don’t know what I would put on there that would be interesting,” he added. Pinault didn’t seem too worried. “He will gain confidence, and I think he will become more and more a strong ambassador for the brand,” he said. He believes Bottega will be “a pillar of the group,” although he wouldn’t put a time frame on that prediction. Certainly, Lee has not been reluctant to make changes at Bottega. He took an empty space used to shoot e-commerce looks and made it his design studio, and he transformed the corporate gym into the atelier. Although he kept the whole design team in place after Maier’s departure, he has lately begun shaking it up. His next focus is menswear, fragrance and furniture. Also a new flagship design. He is contemplating a sneaker. It won’t be a big sneaker, though. “I like a small trainer that stays on your foot,” he said, staring at his Nikes. He is also contemplating celebrities. In May, Bottega will have a table at the Met Gala for the first time. The label has to invite 10 people and is trying to figure out what that means for the brand. Artists? Architects? Playwrights? First, Lee has to get through the next show. He has been spending a lot of time “considering movement,” he said. “We are trying to make every single thing with stretch. It’s going to be much longer and more fluid.”

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We sat down with Lena Simonne, the industry’s new muse to find out what makes her tick and her skin so flawless WORDS: AMY SESSIONS PHOTOGRAPHER JACQUES BURGA

Fashion’s New Muse


#lena.simonne


#lena.simonne


Opening page: Top Nanushka; bag Bottega Veneta; ring Cartier Left and right page: Trench coat Givenchy; trousers Gauchère; shoes Bottega Veneta


#lena.simonne


This page: Trench coat Givenchy; trousers Gauchère; shoes Bottega Veneta Left page: Jacket and bustier Gauchère; trousers Hermès

#lena.simonne


This page: Trench coat Kristina Fidelskaya; top Hermès; trousers and shoes Givenchy; earring and ring Messika; Right page: Cardigan and skirt Bottega Veneta; ring Cartier


#lena.simonne


EW: What does your first 30 mins of the day look like? LS: I clean my face with cold water and I use the almond oil from Caudalie. EW: What three beauty products could you not live without, and why? LS: Embryolisse Hydratant cream, Egyptian Magic for my lips and Dior Backstage Lip Palette. EW: Which emerging designers are on your radar now? LS: Diane Kari and Each Other. EW: What is your go-to capsule for packing? LS: I’m always traveling with my Rimowa, practical and not heavy. EW: Are you an under packer or an over packer? LS: Over packer for sure! How do you like to dress off-duty? LS: In oversized jogging pants at home, and in a comfortable sweatshirt and jeans outside. EW: Whose style in the fashion industry do you admire? LS: The chic sportswear style the Virgil Abloh imposed at Louis Vuitton. EW: Are you an online shopper, where do you shop online? LS: I do shop online, but I love an offline experience in store. EW: What was your first investment piece? LS: My Yves Saint Laurent suit. EW: Which Instagram accounts do you follow for fashion & beauty? LS: @gabriellecaunesil for fashion and @sephoracollection for beauty. EW: What is your in-flight beauty

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routine? LS: Embryolisse Hydratant , a paper mask and almond oil, always. EW: Do you have any pre-bedtime rituals? LS: I just wash my face and I leave my skin rest in the evening, nothing extreme. EW: What do you carry with you always when travelling? LS: I love a belt bag for hands-free ease. EW: What’s always fashionable to you? LS: Patent Doc Martens. EW: If you could only wear one designer, which would it be and why? LS: Each Other, it represents my style so well I feel super comfortable in it. EW: How have you seen the industry evolve since you first started working? LS: Everything has changed since the arrival of digital. There are far fewer in-person castings so less human contact. EW: Have you faced any challenges within the industry? LS: A strong social media presence is important. I’ve worked on improving mine as it’s now an important part of the job. EW: What effect has social media played in your career? LS: It has changed everything; people can see the real you. EW: What advice would you give to your younger self starting out? LS: Never give up EW: If you were not modelling, which other career in fashion would you choose? LS: An artistic director or fashion producer.

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STYLIST GABRIELA CAMBERO, HAIR: ALEXIS PARENTE, MAKEUP: AMELIE MOUTIA, SHOOT COORDINATOR AND CONCEPT: DIANA BELL-HEATHER

“Everything has changed since the arrival of digital. There are far fewer in-person castings so less human contact”


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This page: Jacket Acne Studios; trousers Kristina Fidelskaya; bracelet Cartier


NEW YORK — Barneys New York and Opening Ceremony may be closing, but fashion e-tailers are doing just fine. Last fall, Moda Operandi, the luxury site where customers can order clothes directly off the runways of fashion week, opened a 30,000-squarefoot office in Industry City in Brooklyn. It serves as the company’s creative hub, and scores of Moda Operandi’s 350 employees can be found there arranging shoots, styling clothes and writing code. Here’s what some wore to work on a recent Friday.

THE NEW UNIFORM Inside the Office at Moda Operandi

WORDS: JOHN ORTVED

LAUREN SANTO DOMINGO Age: “43? I’m guessing.” Occupation: co-founder and chief brand officer Q: So you’re the Gwyneth to this Goop? That’s a nice analogy. Sure. Q: What’s the skirt? It’s the Row. Great American tailoring. We launched it on Moda a couple seasons ago. I love their point of view. Q: What have you matched it with? A: My top is also the Row. Q: Do you get a discount or something? A: Yes. My shoes are also the Row. Q: Your work boots? A: They’ve got a practical heel, wouldn’t you say? When I started working at Vogue, we wore stiletto heels every day. Compared to those days this is quite evolved.


GANESH SRIVATS Age: 43 Occupation: chief executive officer Q: You’re the CEO and you’re rolling around here in a sweatsuit. A: Separates, though. It’s not a onesie. Q: What if you had a big meeting? A: Same deal: investors, board meeting, doesn’t matter. Q: Does that put people off kilter? A: There’s a way to dress down and still dress smart. Q: Is this your uniform? A: It’s pretty much in the hot zone of my look. Q: Hot zone? Where are your shoes from? A: This is a very limited-edition Converse with Schott NYC. I’m a sneakerhead, but who isn’t these days?

JAKE OLIVER Age: 35 Occupation: private client adviser Q: I like your Raf Simons Calvin Klein turtleneck. A: I have it in every color possible. I don’t like to wear coats, so I wore just this. Q: Don’t you get overheated in the office? A: I’ll step out from time to time. My colleagues will ask, “Are you ready for a stroll?” And I’ll say “God, yes.” Q: And you’re wearing a denim tunic by Jacquemus. A: It’s a little difficult to get on. I don’t know if you wear a lot of tunics. Q: I do not. I see you’ve rolled up your pants. A: I tell my clients: If you show your wrists and you show your ankles, you look taller. Q: I can’t tell if your shoes are a tasseled loafer or chunky sneaker. A: They’re Margiela. It’s when sportswear meets office wear meets alien wear. Q: And your two-tone socks? A: They’re Jacquemus as well. Overpriced. They were like $45. But as I always say, “If it fits, it ships.”

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LISA AIKEN Age: 34 Occupation: buying director of womenswear Q: A leather coat topped with a sweater. I’m not sure I’ve seen that look before. A: It’s a vegan leather blazer by Nanushka. It’s got a lot of attitude. Q: What about your jeans? My jeans are Slvrlake. Their fits are exceptional. Q: What makes a good blouse for you? A: I’m quite European in that you can generally see a flash of lingerie. I’ve got the Khaite knitted bra underneath. Q: Is that what Europeans do?A: We generally have a hint of bra. Q: What do Americans do? A hint of J. Crew sweater? A: It’s very different here.

TYLER SPARLING Age: 23 Occupation: fashion editor Q: Nice camo. A: These are my favorite vintage RRL camouflage cargoes, given to me by the fashion director here, Josh Peskowitz. Q: He’s giving you his old clothes? A: I get his handme-downs. They have a great story: They’re from the first or second RRL collection. He wore them to death and passed them on to me. Q: That’s kind, I guess. A: I’m wearing them with a cashmere sweater from the Row. Q: The Row? They must pay you very well here. A: They do not. But I got to go to the friends-andfamily sale and it was 90% off. Q: That must be the hottest ticket in fashion. A: It got violent at times. This is actually women’s.

© 2020 THE NEW YORK TIMES COMPANY

NISSA BOOKER Age: 46 Occupation: head of talent Q: How do you dress for work? A: I think about comfort first. Q: Really? Even at Moda Operandi? A: Well, comfort and style are not mutually exclusive. I have on classic Prada pumps, which are surprising very comfortable. Q: Why does every woman say that their heels are comfortable, when they’re clearly not? A: They’re not telling the truth. But there are some heels that are comfortable. It can come down to fit and quality. I’m a sneakers girl. I wore sneakers on my commute today.

AMBER SCHIFFER Age: “Age is a construct” Occupation: director of innovation Q: I like your fuzzy beret. A: Vintage Sonia Rykiel, RIP. I have over 100 eBay alerts for different vintage things: clothing, décor,

all kinds of stuff. Q: Is that what you do all day here? A: No, but when you want to shop vintage you have to be superprepared. Q: Your dress looks like something worn by a Victorian girl who was murdered by her nurse. A: One hundred percent! Stacey Nishomoto. She’s the creative genius behind this line that’s well known in arty-girl circles called the Corner Store. Q: What’s on your feet? A: The shoes are Chanel. Classic. And the anklets my boyfriend had made for me at New Top in Chinatown.

FANYI ZHANG Age: 27 Occupation: senior data scientist Q: You’re dressed very cool for a data scientist. A: Well, I work in fashion and tech. Q: What did you like first: data or fashion? A: Don’t tell my boss, but fashion. Q: Tell me about your jacket. A: It’s from Nanushka. It’s vegan leather, it’s so soft. I love the laid-back

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style. The skirt is vegan leather from Nanushka as well. Q: What about your turtleneck underneath? A: It’s from & Other Stories. The color is warm for winter.

CORTNE BONILLA Age: 26 Occupation: product writer Q: That’s a very chunky turtleneck. A: Turtlenecks are mainly what makes up my wardrobe: gray, cream, white and black. Q: Why? A: I’m always cold, and I love having my neck covered and being able to tuck in my hair. I love the Norwegian, minimalistic way of dressing. They call it hygge. Q: Do you feel any pressure to dress a certain way here? A: Sometimes, maybe like 20% pressure. But mostly, we enjoy it. Q: Those are chunky shoes. A: These are the new Pradas. They’re basically my children. They’re a little bit goth, which is kind of what I’m into. Q: What kind of music do you listen to? A: Metal.

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THE FASHION STOCK MARKET

Invest wisely, reap the rewards WORDS: VANESSA FRIEDMAN

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The pioneer of the accessory index is StockX, the resale site that was valued at over US$1 billion in June after its series C fundraising, and which treats fashion products like commodities to be bought and traded. Although it is most famous for sneakers, StockX expanded into watches and luxury bags in 2017. If StockX is the New York Stock Exchange of accessories, however, with buyers and sellers dealing directly with one another, Rebag (which is significantly smaller) aims to be Nasdaq: a dealer-moderated market, with prices set as an aggregate of behavior. And the fact that there are now at least two such exchanges reflects a shift in the way we buy handbags: a move away from the “It” bag engine of aspiration and social signaling that once powered the luxury market and into more tempered, calculated purchase patterns. According to NPD’s Consumer Tracking Service, in the 12 months ending in August, the women’s handbag market in the United States was US$5.9 billion, down from US$7 billion two years before, a decline of 15%. By contrast, sales of women’s backpacks grew 10% during that time, and sales of fanny, waist and belt bags grew more than 200%. Beth Goldstein, the fashion footwear and accessories industry analyst at NPD, sees this as an indication that handbags are beginning to be bought more according to concrete indicators like functionality and use, rather than impulse or trend. Luca Solca, a luxury analyst at Bernstein, pointed to the rise in popularity of smaller bags, which tend to cost against indiscriminate purchasing. As a result, handbags are becoming less of an emotional purchase and more of a rational one. And

the people buying them, Goldstein said, are starting to behave a lot like car buyers, who plan and research their purchases in advance and “think about the investment value.” It’s not an accident that Gorra wants Clair to become the handbag equivalent of the Kelley Blue Book, the American automotive reference resource that uses new and used car pricing to arrive at a fair market value. Gorra, who began his career at Goldman Sachs and Texas Pacific Group, saw the possibilities in the bag market after a stint at Harvard Business School, during which he worked in product development for Rent the Runway. He started Rebag in 2014 with the idea that it could serve as a means to “instant liquidity” through bags, and has since raised US$52 million and opened nine stores in the United States, with plans for an additional 20. He said he always had Clair in mind; Rebag has been building it for five years. At the moment, there are 10,000 Clair codes, and the number is growing. Bag owners, who do not have to be Rebag customers, can bookmark their bags and track their value. Clair can tell you, for example, that the Louis Vuitton Pochette Metis would sell for almost 100% of its original price, for example, but the LV Papillon, a more common style, is closer to 40%. And though the data tracking prices through the years is not yet available to the general public, certain conclusions can be drawn — and will be. Every quarter, Rebag will publish Clair’s Picks, a list of bags it recommends that people buy or sell, the same way an analyst shares stock picks. To wit: The Fendi Mama bag has gone up 44% in resale price since 2018; the Christian Dior logo book tote is up 26%. According to Gorra, the ultimate safe bet in the bag market is Hermès (which retains an average of over 80% of value at resale), followed by Chanel, Vuitton, Gucci and YSL (all over 60% on average). Goyard is also in the top quadrant. On the other hand, if you wanted to go long on a bag stock, it turns out that Bottega Veneta is hovering at around 30% of its full price (Prada, Fendi and Valentino are close to 40%). If you wanted to play the market, thus, you could buy a few vintage BV bags cheaply, betting that other people would see they weren’t selling for much and stop bringing them to market, which would make them relatively rare, which would raise the price — which would mean you could sell high. Indeed, scarcity in the bag market, as in the sneaker market, is a large component of value. (Obviously, as with sneakers, the less used, the better.) This is part of the reason that Hermès, which keeps its supply below demand and often creates limited-edition pieces, is so dominant.

© 2019 THE NEW YORK TIMES COMPANY; IMAGES: GETTY

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ermès handbags have spawned a singular secondary market and have sold for jaw-droppingly high prices at auction. (One of those apocryphal fashion sayings has it that an Hermès bag is a better investment these days than gold.) But lately it seems that Hermès is no longer alone. High-end handbags, like highend sneakers, may be turning into an asset class of their own. Which implies it may be time to stop thinking of that purse closet — or shelf, or wicker storage bin — as part of your wardrobe and to start thinking of it as part of an investment portfolio, complete with blue chip stocks, the opportunity to short some names, and to make more money while doing so. That’s what Charles Gorra thinks, anyway. He is the founder of Rebag, a luxury handbag resale site, and late last year, he introduced Clair, aka the Comprehensive Luxury Appraisal Index for Resale. It is an algorithmic tool that shows bag owners the resale spot prices of their bags if they were to liquidate them immediately by selling to Rebag. (Unlike other resale sites, Rebag buys stock outright, rather than giving the owner a percentage of the sale when it occurs. Over the next few months, Gorra will introduce tracking features that allow you to see the rise and fall of those prices to better calculate the future value of a bag — and make a buying or selling decision in the moment. “The information is: What percent of retail am I recouping?” he said during a demonstration of the tool. “I can see a time when people will buy bags differently based on that. The true value of a luxury brand is in its stickiness: its percent of retained value.”


This page: Black shirt, leather top, striped pants, grey saddle bag. Right page: White coat, white camouflage shorts. All Dior SS20 RTW


THE FASHION LANDSCAPE Maria Grazia Chiuri takes inspiration from the natural world for Dior SS20 P H OTO G R A P H Y: G R EG A DA M S K I

S T Y L I N G : J A D E C H I LTO N


This page: Striped jumpsuit, blue shirt. Left page: Green camouflage jacket, green camouflage shorts, blue striped shirt, white boots. All Dior SS20 RTW

This page: Dress Dhs5,156 Red Valentino; Bodysuit Dhs​519.19 ​ Falke; Earrings Dhs679 Beaufille available at ​Morpheus Macau Right page: Dress Dhs9,427.75 Balenciaga


Left page: Mini Lady Dior bag . This page: Blue shirt, tie dye skirt, beige belt. All Dior SS20 RTW


MODEL: OLENA AT ART FACTORY MANAGEMENT; HAIR AND MAKE-UP: MELANIE MEYER AT MMG ARTISTS

This page: Striped jacket, blue tie dye jumpsuit, striped sweater, beige belt. Right page: Striped blue shirt, white camouflage shorts, beige sandals. All Dior SS20 RTW


The acclaimed artist and director shares her exclusive edit and discusses her work, how moving to L.A. changed her style and why she’s always looking forward to what’s next WORDS BY DANIELLE RADOJCIN

Curated by Sam TaylorJohnson 86 emirateswoman.com

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t’s already dark on a wet and windy January evening in London, and Sam Taylor-Johnson, the film director and artist, is singing her favourite David Bowie song down the phone to me. She is at home in sunny Los Angeles, where it’s the middle of the morning and she’s just back from walking her three dogs up the canyon that runs behind the house she shares in the Hollywood Hills with her husband, the actor Aaron Taylor-Johnson, and her four daughters. The reason for this melodic interlude – ‘Fill Your Heart’ from Hunky Dory, as it happens – is that we are discussing her episode of Desert Island Discs, the long-running BBC4 radio show in which guests discuss the eight records they would take to a desert island, and in which, she is sorry to say, she did not include said Bowie track. The interview was recorded all the way back in 2005, and a great deal has changed for her in the intervening years. "I think of myself in survival mode, that headspace that I was in back then, as opposed to now, which is much gentler," she says. At that time, she was a bright star of British art. Originally from Croydon, south London, she had graduated from Goldsmiths University just behind Damien Hirst and Sarah Lucas; earned a Turner Prize nomination and a solo show at Chisenhale Gallery; garnered the attention of the public with works like David Beckham Sleeping (2004) and Crying Men (2004); and married and had two children with the art dealer and gallerist Jay Jopling, all the while operating at the nexus of London’s glamourous social scene (Kate Moss held her infamous 30th ‘Beautiful and Damned’-themed 30th birthday party at TaylorJohnson’s). She had also survived two bouts of cancer, referring to her mastectomy in her Self Portrait in Single Breasted Suit with Hare (2001). Like her male counterparts Julian Schnabel and Steve McQueen, Taylor-Johnson segued into directing commercial films, including  Nowhere Boy  (2009), where she met the actor Aaron Johnson. They fell in love, married a few years later and had two daughters together. They moved to Los Angeles in 2014, when she took on the role of director of 50 Shades of Grey (2017). Most recently, she directed A Million Little Pieces, in which Aaron also stars. Which brings us to her life today. She’s up with the birds each day, doing the school run before her hike with the dogs. She also practises yoga and meditates regularly. "Oh God – hiking and yoga – I’m just such an L.A. person!" she wails. "There’s no sense of dressing up here. So yes, my harder-edge style has gone by the wayside and has to be reignited if I go back home [to London], so that I don’t feel like I’m just walking out in Lycra." It’s a far cry from the 1990s, when her dear friend Alexander McQueen would gift her entire outfits from his atelier. "I remember one of my birthdays,

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when he gave me the most beautiful Comme des Garçons dress, because he said he thought the tailoring was just so amazing." How would she describe her style today? "I just like being able to be relaxed and stylish. Not too overly dressed, but just feeling quite comfortable, and also being able to work in it." This is reflected in the joyful series of self-portraits she has taken for Matches Fashion, modelling pieces of her own choosing by designers including  Bottega Veneta and Isabel Marant. "I like the pictures because they’re very me. They’re not too far out of my realm of being, you know? Isabel Marant is definitely my go-to because it’s just so easy and I love everything she does. There’s nothing that doesn’t work." The other designers she likes are also her friends. Of Stella McCartney, Taylor-Johnson says: "I do love her for trying so hard to make everything sustainable and vegan, and making it actually work for the world, not just for a small group of people. I think what she’s saying is pretty impressive." On Phoebe Philo: "Everything that she wears looks amazing, and it could come from a junk shop, you know? I think she’s enjoying time out of the continual turnover," she says, referring to the ex-Celine and Chloé designer’s much speculatedon hiatus. "And Bella Freud," Taylor-Johnson continues, "I love how she dresses. I’ll see her and I’ll be like, “How did you just pull off that dirty anorak with those really nice flares?”," she laughs. What’s it like having four daughters with eyes on her wardrobe? "The fight is real. It’s already happening. Shoes have been earmarked. Bags earmarked. Angelica, my eldest, who’ll be 23 in April, has slowly been pilfering things, and I’ll see them on her Instagram." Work-wise, Taylor-Johnson has just finished work on a new photographic series, and she’s to find out in the coming week which of three potential projects – two films; one TV series – she will next be working on. "One of the very last things that [director] Anthony Minghella said to me was, “Don’t lie back on your laurels. Yeah, you made a great short film, get on with it, do the next one”. It’s something that I’ve consistently thought about. So I guess that’s kind of how I think of myself. Just as someone who wants to keep moving." Before she goes, I ask her what people who don’t know her would be surprised to discover if they met her. "I think I’m pretty laid-back. I look like I’m not doing anything most of the time, but I do tend to get quite a lot done in that weird disguise. I think it’s just that, having been through a lot in my life, it shows you what really matters and why it’s not necessary to get too het up about most things."

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IMAGES: SUPPLIED


FASHION’S POWER COUPLE Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons stole the spotlight from Milan Fashion Week with their surprise announcement

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hat better way to end a buzzing week of shows at Milan Fashion Week than with a bombshell announcement that Belgium designer Raf Simons will partner with Prada. He is the first major design talent outside of Prada family to join since 1913. This is a sort of partnership dreams are made of and we won’t have to wait long to see what this collaboration will deliver as their first joint collection will be showcased this September. Simons has been the darling of fashion for many years and has made a significant impact during his time at Dior and Calvin Klein, as well as his namesake label (which he will continue to work on during his new role at the Italian brand). However, he struggled with the fast-pace of

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fashion, so working with Miuccia might help with balancing creativity and the demands of the clients. “I think lots of creatives… feel troubled, feel that the fashion industry is moving more and more towards an industry that might end up excluding creatives,” he said during a news conference held at the Italian fashion house’s headquarters. Simons will officially join in April. He and Miuccia will work together “with equal responsibilities for creative input and decision making.” “We like each other, we respect each other. I was sometimes criticised for not doing collaborations, so now I am doing one,” Miuccia said, to which Simons added: “There’s more strength when two creatives believe in it, than when one believes in it. If we both believe in it, we’re going to do it.“ As for the length of their contract, Prada mused, “In theory, it’s forever.”

STYLE

The pair have crossed design path previously when Simons was heading up Jil Sander in 2o05, which at the time was part of the Prada group. They share similar interests in arts, cinema, and mixing past and future references. “I do believe a lot in collaboration,” Simons said. “I think it strengthens the result.” The distinct values and ethos of the Prada brand remain unchanged: this radical creative dialogue, indeed, is a reiteration of the philosophies of both Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. It is perfectly in tune with each designer’s individual history of reinvention, provocation, brave exploration and the power of ideas - now, brought together. The first Prada collection designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons will be the Spring/ Summer 2021 womenswear show, presented in Milan in September 2020.

IMAGE: SUPPLIED

WO R D S : D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R


Inside Prada Mode's pop-up private club

WORDS: KERRY OLSEN


#prada

© 2020 THE NEW YORK TIMES COMPANY

Above and right: Derek Blasberg, Miuccia Prada and guests mingle at the Prada Mode pop-up Below: Prada Mode. Opposite page: Amina Muaddi


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ntroduced in 2018, Prada Mode had already landed in Miami and Hong Kong during Art Basel, and in London for Frieze. Now its fourth edition was to open for two days, Sunday and Monday, during the couture shows in the French capital, taking over the art nouveau restaurant Maxim’s on Rue Royale, where the likes of Aristotle Onassis and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor once dined. It is the latest iteration of luxury’s drive to own the experience economy, which has seen brands expand into hotels, cafes — and increasingly, form their own velvet-roped, insideronly communities. “My interests often take me to think about projects beyond fashion,” Miuccia Prada wrote in a recent email. “Mode is one of these events, offering a familiar place to extend the art experience into the social; a place where people are welcome to think freely and discuss, not forget to have fun.”Gaining entree to this mythical zone is not as straightforward as donning one of the label’s frumpy-chic coats. For the Paris iteration, about 1,000 invitees were hand-picked by the label, and include such names as Adèle Exarchopoulos, the French actress; Jake Chapman, the British artist; Gigi Hadid, the American model; and Alex Kapranos, the singer with the Scottish rock band Franz Ferdinand. It’s a way for the brand to dip its slingbacks into the haute couture crowd in a city where Prada isn’t on the runway. “They want to present themselves as a junction, not necessarily between art and fashion but a new zone,” said Francesco Bonami, the Italian curator who popped by Prada Mode during its London stop in October. “It’s a different level, and hard to define.” Once in, Prada Mode Paris members could hit the club any time over its two-day run (open from 9:30 a.m. to 2 a.m.), to experience sitespecific artworks; join parties featuring live performances from the avantgarde composer William Basinski and the experimental musician Josiah Wise, who records as serpentwithfeet; and sample specialty dining from the French chef Bertrand Grébaut of the Paris restaurant Septime. Also scheduled are panel discussions with leading theorists and practitioners focused on the history of facial recognition, concerns about government and corporate surveillance, and how artists and creators are responding to such programs. Another question might be: Why would a fashion brand suddenly want to become a gatekeeper of self-invented creative communities? “Creating experiences that surround a brand through the customer journey acts as an antidote to commoditisation and declining loyalty,” Caroline Bremner, head of travel at Euromonitor International, wrote in the market research company’s 2017 report “Experience More.” Another 2017 Euromonitor report said: “Consumer’s expenses with experiences should increase from US$5.8 trillion in 2016 to US$8 trillion in 2030,” with experiences encompassing categories like leisure, recreation,

travel and food services. Prada’s efforts to create its own club community are the most recent in a growing trend among retailers. In Milan, Giorgio Armani has a side gig as a nightclub impresario. His private club Giorgio’s was introduced in 2016 and says it has around 1,000 members worldwide. Last December it had its own pop-up at Harry’s Bar in London as host of one of the British Fashion Awards after-parties. The Palazzo Ralph Lauren, a members-only club in Milan, opened in the fashion house’s art nouveau palazzo, Casa Campanini, in 2015. Here, a person need only be a valued client, or even just a friend of one, to belong. Members can shop from exclusive collections, enjoy perks like dining on its outdoor terrace with food prepared by a private chef and get priority reservations at any Ralph Lauren restaurant. And Alfred Dunhill, the British luxury label, has its private club, called Alfred’s, at its menswear flagship store in Bourdon House, a Georgian mansion in the Mayfair that was the former London residence of the Duke of Westminster. “In the end, these experiences are all about making customers feel special,” said Flavio CeredaParini,managing director of luxury and brand equity research for Jefferies Group, an investment bank and financial services company. And the result? Loyalty, engagement and higher revenues, the perfect ROI.

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AGAINST THE CURRENT

The founders of sneaker brand Axel Arigato see no limits. Fluid in their creative and business thinking,

they are representing a new way for contemporary brands to be successful and stand out from the masses

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WORDS: DIANA B E L L- H E AT H E R


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pon meeting Max Svärdh and Albin Johansson, your first reaction is that these guys know exactly what they’re talking about. Well versed in the creative and business spheres, their approach to their brand is unrestricted and constantly evolving. This is perhaps why when they launched the underground Swedish sneaker brand, Axel Arigato, it became an instant hit. They focused on digital and social media to push their brand, and just three days in they were selling to more than 14 countries. Then they hit 100 countries during the first year, and gained plenty of traction on social media. The contemporary price point also appealed to their customers – they could shop quality leather sneakers made between Portugal and Italy for a fraction of the price of luxury brands. What started as just two guys with a vision and hell of a lot of confidence, turned into a global business leading them to open physical stores, and most recently launch a four month pop-up at Level Shoes, The Dubai Mall. We catch up with the duo on their first, and brief, trip to the region to find out exactly how they managed to build their brand from the ground up, and how they see it evolving.

through the store. From the layout, to music, to the product. AJ: Think about the brand and then the rest is secondary. Without a brand you don’t have a website with traffic and awareness. On their first visit to Dubai MS: Just being in The Dubai Mall, we noticed a big sneaker and fashion interest. Just looking at the people and products, it’s obvious that people are fashion forward and I think there’s a space for us in this region. On inspiration MS: Inspiration just comes to you. Instagram is a big source, but the biggest inspiration is the next generation – what do they like? What apps do they use? How do they communicate? You can be inspired in so many different ways. I’m more interested in bigger shifts and trends. Their advice for the next generation MS: There’s big opportunities today even though the competition is fiercer. The most important thing is to do it, and not just talk about it. AJ: What more important than ever is to really think 360. It’s not enough to do one thing good enough. You need to think about how you’re going to get the brand message out, how do you get consumers to know who you are, how can you offer them a good experience, and the packaging, product and design, what makes you different, what’s the reason for you to be out there, why should a consumer choose you? If you’re doing the same as someone else, it becomes more of a commodity than an actual brand.

Axel Arigato available at Level Shoes, The Dubai Mall

LEVEL SHOES AND AXEL ARIGATO

On why they started MS: There was not a single brand that we felt that we could truly identify ourselves with. And it wasn’t only us, it was everyone we were hanging out with. We launched the brand in 2014, when social media was really growing, smartphones changed how we were behaving, but brands were still working according to the old consumer model, and we wanted to do something new and fresh. We were born on the internet. AJ: It was good timing for us because we wouldn’t be able to do what we did five years

prior. We were able to connect directly to our customer through social media and to also sell directly through our website. We are a very marketing driven brand, but we do it our way. On constantly evolving AJ: There aren’t the same opportunities today as there were five years ago. Everyone now is trying to break within the same space, and it’s harder. We have changed our business model, we also changed our logo and assortment, so nothing from what Axel Arigato was is the same today. But we are more relevant than ever, we are better than ever and more known than ever. MS: You need to be up to date with what is happening in every sense. AJ: Someone else can take your spot, you need to be on top of your game. You’re never better than your last product, you can’t lean back on something that was good years ago On embracing change AJ: We love what we’re doing and we’re both optimistic. We see chances. I see everything is possible, I don’t see problems and that’s why we work well together. For us, retail is not dying, fashion is not going backwards. MS: All these changes have been opportunities for us. We loved them. Changes are positive. AJ: We don’t want to be defined. We are constantly evolving and changing. Everything goes so fast. Of course you need a framework, but that framework has to evolve all the time. We are a sneaker brand but we don’t know what we do in one week, or one year. On importance of retail space MS: The reason we went physical and opened up spaces is because we wanted to show so much more of us and the brand that we weren’t able to do through the website and social media. You can’t touch an image, so by opening our store we were able to show our DNA. It’s much easier for our customer to have a good understanding of our brand

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WORD: D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

COUTURE

REPORT

Exquisite craftsmanship and creative expression lit up Paris for the Spring/Summer 2020 Haute Couture season. We take a closer look at some of our favourite collections

Givenchy

Using gardens as metaphors, Clare Waight Keller explored the romance between women and flower blossoms. Tracing the line of a millefeuille ombrelle hat, whorls of petal-shaped volume descend from flounced shoulders or gather in parachute skirts from an empire bust, allowing each flower silhouette its own unique symbiosis of botanical colour and immaculate Haute Couture texture.


Chanel Virginie Viard transported her second couture show for Chanel to a recreated garden of the Aubazine orphanage, where the brand's founder, Coco Chanel, grew up with her siblings in the late 19th century after her mother died. The collection was smart, polished, precise, but filled with a youthful spirit. A couture collection for the next generation of fashion collectors.

Valentino Inspired by Swiss psychoanalyst Carl Jung and the subconscious, Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli wanted to celebrate the intricate craftsmanship of couture by revealing certain elements of design through transparent fabric and exposed corsetry. He made couture extremely wearable and toned down the volume of some of the pieces paying tribute to the elegant body-con silhouette, styled beautifully with opera gloves

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Georges Chakra Celebrating energetic youth and purity, Georges Chakra wanted to bring positivity to couture proceedings in Paris. The focus was heavy on bridal with various textures including multilayered chiffon, silk and satin ruffles, floral embroidery and feathers dotted throughout.

Elie Saab Elie Saab’s couture collection intertwines the regal past of both Europe and Mexico, bringing them together into present time. The collection was daring and charming, bold and graceful, yet always refined and contemporary.

Iris van Herpen For this collection, Iris van Herpen drew inspiration from the sensory processes that occur between the intricate composition of the human body, mirrored with the fibrous marine ecology of our oceans. The collection consists of 21 silhouettes that illustrate a portrait of liquid labyrinths, where dresses spill onto the floor in elegant train and pigments gather in clouded pools of blues and lilac, leaking into one another like marble.

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FAS H I O N


Giorgio Armani Privé Giorgio Armani took a strong interest in ikat, the Indonesian dyeing technique, known for dense, rich patterns. He continued to experiment by adding beaded tulle overlays, embroidered inlays, crystal fringes and even guipure lace. There were plenty of sophisticated daytime outfits, suggesting a sense of deep harmony with the natural world. The sparkling touch of a bijou hat highlights the elegance of the silhouette.

Dior

“What if women ruled the world?” A question raised by the iconic American artist Judy Chicago inspired Maria Grazia Chiuri’s couture collection for Dior that celebrates feminist creativity. As she developed her looks, Maria also started to draw motives from classical representations of goddesses, such as Athena. As a result, the pieces showcased a modern take on the Ancient Greeks's peplos, a flowing silhouette that gives women the freedom to move and create.

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Zuhair Murad

Rami Kadi “The beautiful does not need embellishment, nor does it need filters. The beautiful is freestanding, and it is one and the same with reality. This is why only transparency is worthy of the beautiful. My quest is enhancing the beauty of what is real through transparency.” Rami Kadi

Rami Al Ali “I wanted to harness a sensual femininity while still exuding power and confidence. Couture is an ultimate form of expression, its existence is more important now than ever before. In the current fashion climate, the desire to obtain individuality is something still revered. Couture is the definition of individuality, therefore it allows the industry to continue to flourish.” Rami Al Ali

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FAS H I O N

IMAGES: SUPPLIED, INES MANAI FOR DIOR, QUENTIN DE LADELUNE FOR ARMANI PRIVE

Zuhair Murad paid tribute to ancient Egypt through his dazzling SS20 couture collection. Continuing to mix power and beauty, the designer was fascinated by the mysterious pharaohs of the past and made sure that hieroglyphs, falcons, and deities featured in his heavily embellished creations.


Wes Gordon on respecting and evolving the codes of Carolina Herrera

CREATING THE EXTRAORDINARY

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WORDS: D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

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lacing joy and colour at the core of every collection seems to come easy to Wes Gordon, who has been at the helm of Carolina Herrera since 2018. But in fact, he was never as in love with bright hues until he entered the cheerful world of one of the most iconic American brands. Transforming his creative and business mindset takes time, but season after season we are seeing his modern version of a Herrera girl, yet the familiar codes of the brand are intact. Finding that balance isn’t easy for any designer, but it does help when, like Wes, you already love the brand and everything it stands for.

How would you define Carolina Herrera today? Carolina Herrera is a rainbow in a

grey sky. It is clothing for a woman who wants to live her every moment of her life as a celebration. Clothing that creates joy, laughter, smiles, clothing that celebrates colour and clothing that allows the woman to feel her most beautiful and confidant. Talk us through your Spring/Summer 2020 collection? I was inspired specifically by the

superbloom. The superbloom is a botanical phenomenon and it happened in California last spring. It occurs when there is a year of drought, when the plants in the die and these mountains and hills become a desert. Then the next year spontaneously, in like two days, what was once a desert becomes a carpet of wonderful flowers. That vivaciousness that exposes life and colour is what I wanted to capture in my collection. This phenomenon is rare, but it’s now happening because of the global warming.

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

Is it a challenge to evolve the DNA of a brand like Carolina Herrera? I think of course it is

a challenge. I think it would be wrong for a creative director to be at a house where he or she did not already respect and love some of the codes, and unfortunately I think that happens. I love a lot of what Mrs. Herrera created, so for me it’s really more of a redecoration than a total renovation. It’s an evolution, not a revolution. It’s picking and choosing which part of our DNA to emphasise more. I feel very lucky that my

personal taste is aligned with many of the values of Herrera and try to make sure that women who loved Herrera for decades will continue to do so, but also to introduce the brand to a new generation. Can you define your design aesthetic in a sentence? I think

you can never lock yourself away. I think to be a designer, it’s about knowing the woman for who you are designing and understanding her and really designing for her, because when you’re locked away, you are just doing an art project. I believe that all of our things are just fabric until the woman actually puts it on. Only then it becomes a dress. And then my main overall source of inspiration every season is colour. Herrera now is a house of colour. I love colour, the house loves colour, our woman loves colour. The first thing I do each season is create my colour cards. I believe in happy colours, I hate sad colors like a muddy dusty, chalky colors. I like colours that are full of life the colours with a pure pigment like super high saturation a red that’s a red, a pink that is the most delicious pink. What elements of Carolina Herrera do you think appeals to women in the Middle East?

What I am learning is that this is an old fashion way of thinking about clients. Breaking them down by age groups or geographic regions or economic groups is so wrong. The better way is for us identify the type of woman who loves Herrera, who we are designing for and think of her by her characteristics and her personality traits. You will find that she crosses over into many different age groups, and world regions. What have you learnt about yourself as a designer since joining the Carolina Herrera family? I am defiantly more colourful

than when I started at Herrera. The first thing I did was make big boards of what a woman would look like at night, what she looks like during the day, what her house, bags and shoes look like. That was an exercise that I was kind of removed from, but now over

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time I’ve become one with that. What has been your own personal highlight? I love the last show, it was so beautiful. We took over the whole park and created a glass bubble at the bottom - so it was just a tent in an endless green. We covered it with white carpeting and we had Kylie Minogue playing. I’ve also been lucky to make some pieces for the Duchess of Sussex which is amazing. But despite all the cool things we have done its always when you see a stranger wearing a piece from my collection, because when a woman has gone to a store with 300 brands and chosen this piece and paid for it - that’s amazing, that’s magic. How do you see the brand evolving? We do eight collections a year and the product is getting better and better. Our codes are becoming more developed so that’s really exciting to me. The most important thing is to make sure that the product is extraordinary, and every season we are getting more and more extraordinary. What is your advice for aspiring designers?

I went straight from school and started my own collection and did that for eight years, and on one hand I would say do not do that because it's stressful and very difficult. But everything I experienced then trained me to be a greater director and understand areas of the business that I would otherwise never understood, so my advice is to figure out where do you see yourself in 10 years and really work that way. Think what that is and how to get there, and be patient. Be humble because no one will become Mr. Armani or Ralph Lauren in one year, so keep your dreams kind of manageable.

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Like morning dew settling over spring petals, the latest pieces from Pandora mesmerise and delight with their youthfully delicate personality. Create your own statement this season with their endearing selection of charms P H OTO G R A P H Y: M U ST U FA A B I D I

STYLING: COOKIE SINGH AT M M G A R T I ST S

BURST OF

SPRING

Right page (clockwise): Reflexions Multi Snake Chain Bracelet in Pandora Rose Dhs645 with charms: Reflexions Pave Four-Leaf Clover Clip Charm Dhs245; Reflexions Sparkling Daisy Flower Clip Charm Dhs295; rings (left to right): Sparkling Daisy Flower Crown Ring in Pandora Rose Dhs395; Pink Daisy Flower Trio Ring in Pandora Rose Dhs445; Flowers Petals Band Ring in Pandora Rose Dhs395; Moments Barrel Clasp Snake Chain Bracelet in Pandora Rose Dhs745 with charms: Pink Daisy Flower Charms in Pandora Rose Dhs295 (each); Pink Daisy Flower Dangle Charm in Pandora Rose Dhs295; Pink Daisy Flower Stud Earrings in Pandora Rose Dhs295


This page (clockwise): Moments Daisy Flower Clasp Snake Chain Bracelet in Sterling Silver Dhs345 with Daisy Flower Safety Chain Charm Dhs195; Blue Daisy Flower Charms Dhs225 (each); Teal Pave Daisy Flower Charms Dhs345 (each); Sparkling Daisy Flower Dangle Charm Dhs295; Pave Daisy Flower Statement Stud Earrings Dhs345; Sparkling Daisy Flower Crown Ring in Sterling Silver Dhs295; Pave Daisy Flower Statement Ring Dhs295; Left page (clockwise): Sparkling Honeycomb Hexagon Stud Earrings Dhs195; Flower Petals Band Ring in Sterling Silver Dhs345; Sparkling Honeycomb Hexagon Collier Necklace Dhs345

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This page (clockwise): Curb Chain Necklace Dhs245 with Moments O Pendant Dhs195 and Sparkling Bee Pendant Dhs245; Sparkling Dragonfly Open Ring Dhs345; Moments Barrel Clasp Snake Chain Bracelet in Sterling Silver Dhs295 with Charms: Electric Guitar Dangle Charm Dhs175; Openwork Music Notes Charm Dhs145; Hamsa, All-Seeing Eye & Feather Spirituality Dangle Charm Dhs295; Sparkling Football Charm Dhs245; Sneaker Shoe Dangle Charm Dhs175; Free Hugs Cactus Charm Dhs175; Pave Ice-Cream Cone Dangle Charm Dhs225 The collection will be available at Pandora stores across the UAE from mid-March 2020 108 emirateswoman.com


Full spectrum Uplifting rainbow hues from designer Olivia Rubin

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hether you’re a longterm fan of Olivia Rubin, or only just getting to know her brand, we can guarantee you have spotted one or two of her multi-colour creations while scrolling through your Instagram feed. The London-based creative is a Central St Martins alumni and has worked in fashion for 15 years for major names including Alexander McQueen, Dior and John Galliano. “They were invaluable experience,” she reflect. “I witnessed the insights of a successful working label and felt it helped form who I am as a designer today and what I disliked about the fashion industry.” Armed with fashion knowledge, and a yearning to create her own pieces after taking time off to dedicate herself to being a mother, Rubin’s can thank social media for her current success. “The label came about really organically,” she explains. “I missed making my own clothes after taking a couple of years out to focus on my daughters so I started designing and making a few bits and bobs that I thought were ’special’ and posted them on Instagram. Soon I was receiving DMs and comments from VIPS, celebrities and customers asking where they could buy them.” Her aesthetic is colourful, whimsical, feminine and quirky with a focus on forever pieces that will bring a dose of happiness to your wardrobe. “I was always into pastel colours growing up with a fascination for Hello Kitty, Little Twin Stars and cute characters. I wanted to transform this love of colour into a contemporary womenswear brand and at the time nobody was doing that. It all started with the rainbow sequin skirt.” Now, she is bringing her joyful collections to luxury department store Robinsons, Dubai Festival City, and feels that the colourful pieces will strike a chord with the local customers: “I feel that the Middle East customer is really in tune with bright colours and the selection for Robinsons focused on silk rainbow and sequins pieces that would bring that rainbow aesthetic to the forefront of the Middle East.” The Olivia Rubin brand has grown significantly since launching it in 2017, and with that success came the struggle to balance work with personal life, but she could not have done it without her family. “I am a workaholic, I find it hard to juggle family and work life, but am lucky to have a super supportive family unit. I couldn’t do it without them. I have also formed a close knit team and I love working with them. I feel like motherhood gave me a new-found ambition, and I feel more ‘me’ and

confident now than I ever have. I try to set realistic goals but always strive to achieve the best; that is probably why I am one of my harshest critics.” Not only do the rainbow-hued sequinned dresses and skirts look fabulous, but they also fall into that sweet price point of contemporary luxury – not mass like the high street, and not unattainable like historic maisons. “Customers want something new and different that is affordable,” she says. Not restricting her joyful creations just to clothing, in 2019 Rubin launched a homeware collection on Etsy, that offered everything from pastel ombré cushions and colourful tableware collection to candy cane-scented candles. What’s next for the brand? “We are growing the team in a big way this year, working on expanding the ranges and being selective in where we place and grow the brand.” One of the many brands that came up thanks to the power of social media, Rubin still advises budding entrepreneurs to do their homework and tread carefully: “Do not feel that you have to invest a huge amount of capital before you have tested the waters. My brand has grown super organically and that has been partly why it has succeeded so far.”

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B E L L- H E AT H E R WORDS: DIANA

Diamonds

GONE ROGUE

P H OTO G R A P H Y:

MERT & MARCUS

Jewellery house Messika continues to disrupt the industry, with the help of some familiar faces


Kate Moss for Messika


think about jewellery when I am putting a look together. The right earring can decide whether I wear my hair up or down. What roles does jewellery play in your everyday life? I love jewellery, it’s definitely part of my daily life. I am always wearing some and always searching for some. I love to shop for it on my travels.

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hen Valérie Messika launched her jewellery brand, she turned the world of diamond craftsmanship on its head and made them ‘cool’. No longer reserved for special occasions, Messika diamonds are designed to make you shine bright every day. With the My Twin collection, modelled by Kate Moss, Sylvia Hoeks and Joan Smalls, Valérie decided to play mix and match with different cuts of diamonds, disrupting your usual perception of what a diamond piece should look like. The pear cut diamond, which is both sensual and dazzling, marries with the emerald cut, which is more stylised and hypnotic, or even the oval cut, which is sweet and gentle. “Kate Moss has always been my muse, she is a legend of fashion and a rock n’ roll icon. Kate is above all a free woman,” explains Valérie. “I chose Joan Smalls for her spectacular physique. She gives off a very contemporary glamour.” Below, two of the stars of the latest collection share their relationship with their jewellery.

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JOAN SMALLS KATE MOSS Do you wear jewellery daily? Is there a piece you can’t walk out of the house without wearing? Yes, I wear a ring my boyfriend got me and my other ring which I can’t get off my finger! It’s a Persian diamond that I got in NY and the other is from a lovely old man near where I live in London where I often get vintage jewellery from. Finish this sentence: Diamonds are…. My favourite things. Do you have any advice on how to wear jewellery for women? Don't be afraid to mix it up - modern and vintage. You are looked at as a style icon, when you are getting dressed, how important is your jewellery for a red-carpet moment or appearance? Very important. I always

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What is an important characteristic for a jewellery piece? That I feel it's unique to me and accentuates my skin complexion. What roles does jewellery play in your everyday life? It’s part of my outfit. I love that even when I’m dressed down, I can pile up jewellery and elevate my look. Do you wear jewellery daily? Is there a piece you can’t walk out of the house without wearing?My tiny hoop earrings on all 5 of my piercings. I feel so bare without them. Do you have a favorite diamond cut, and why is this so? Radiant cut or princess. The shape is stronger and masculine goes better with my personality. What did you love about the Middle East? I love how the architecture speaks to the depth of history and knowledge. It’s magnificent to see.


Right and far right: Martha Hunt wearing Selim Mouzannar; Selim Mouzannar

Labour of

The bond we create with jewellery is undeniable; Lebanese designer Selim Mouzannar transports emotions inspired by nature into his creations WO R D S : D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

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elim Mouzannar might come from a birthright of jewellery design, but he was resistant to take up the craft at the beginning. Despite his best efforts, he was drawn back into the world of gems, but he didn’t do it for the money of the fame. The Lebanese creative wanted to make timeless pieces that transcended trends and pay tribute to the nature that surrounds us. Based in Beirut, Mouzannar brings his love for Art Deco and Ottoman architecture to his unique creations that are frequently inspired by the ocean, stars and open air. Mainly working with a colourful array of gems that are rose-cut to enhance their radiance and create a warm glow, his elaborate star-shaped pendants and floral drop earrings catch the eye and leave a lasting impression. Mouzannar has been surrounded by jewellery since he was a child, paying frequent visits to the Gold Souk in Beirut and watching his father work; hence many of his collection pay homage to his heritage. He studied mineralogy in France and Belgium and was then hired by a renowned jewellery group to manage its workshops in Saudi Arabia. Afterward, he went to Thailand to explore ruby mines near the Burmese border before finally setting up his own brand. On his visit to Dubai before jetting off to Paris to showcase his pieces, Mouzannar shares with us why he tried to resist the dazzling world of jewellery making. How has your childhood shape the jewellery designer you are today? I don’t think it’s honourable to be a jeweller, son of a jeweller and a grandson of a jeweller, because it’s an easier way in. It’s the heritage, which I don’t believe in and I resist a lot against it. At the beginning, I wanted to be a

journalist. Unfortunately, I made it and it’s been 15 years that I admit that I want to be a jewellery designer. I made it on my own, without my family. How did you try to separate yourself from that heritage? I was an expat for 15 years and worked in the Middle East and Saudi as a production manager and purchaser of stones and then I went on an adventure to Bhurma in the mines and then I travelled to New York, Belgium, France which opened my eyes to all cultures. Your collections are inspired by Art Deco and Ottoman architecture, which are your favourite themes to work with? Mainly nature. We are part of nature, we can’t fight against it. I get inspired by my life, every second we live is a kind of inspiration. Every place we go inspires us. We are in the hub of life.  What is your main goal when designing? I want the pieces to be timeless. I want someone to wear something I made today to be worn in 20 years. I want my pieces to bring happiness. Jewellery has been seen as a sign of power and wealth, but this is not my purpose. I don’t consider myself the centre of the world, I do my job. I share my feeling through the object. How has the mood in Beirut been recently and how has that effected business? Beirut is suffering. It’s a tough moment that the Lebanese are living today, the prospects don’t look bright right now. Good will come, but it’s a tough moment for the country. When I began my brand, I went beyond Lebanon, and now my international export is more than 50 percent of my turnover and this can maintain my team in Beirut. How do you see the jewellery industry evolving? Like all industries, it’s moving and adapting. I don’t believe in stagnation, people want change, you want to be better and refine. I can’t change the direction but I believe in my beliefs, I do my job, I’m not influenced my trends. I want my pieces to be fun, joyful, colourful and happy. I respect the conventional techniques of fine jewellery. Respect that, but bring something new. What are your personal ambitions for the brand? I was approached by a big group to go global, and I was tempted. But I chose to be niche, I chose to stay niche. The brand is recognised everywhere, I’m in Bergdorf Goodman in New York, I’m on Net-a-Porter and Matches Fashion, and Dover Street Market. What advice can you bestow on future jewellery designers? First, you have to love nature, especially the colour and all these crystals that nature produces. You then have to understand the rules of manufacturing. It’s so easy to make a sketch, but you have to understand how to make the pieces and you have to be close to the craftsmen. Just because it’s jewellery, don’t look at it like a money maker. Take it one step at a time. Connect with people, and refine as mistakes are part of running a business. What is your favourite part of the day and why? If you want me to choose, I will insult the nature. Every time of day has an emotion. I wake up early, but at the same time, I like the nightlife. Sunrise in the middle of the ocean is magical. I went to the North Pole in Greenland and it’s wild. If you could be anywhere else in the world right now, where would it be? Travelling between the stars. When was the last time you felt truly inspired? It was in the middle of ocean looking at the multi-colour water. It was a desert island called Marathi in the Greek islands. I felt like this water was like crystal, it was a mixture of blue, green and light green and I’ve never seen a colour like this before.

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MODERN TRADITIONS Hailing from Saudi Arabia, sisters Alanoud and Aljazi Althunayan are turning what was old into something new with AJ Jewelery

WORDS: DIANA BELLH E AT H E R

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

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ounded by the Althunayan sisters, AJ Jewelry was inspired by the traditional family values of gifting and passing down of jewels as a sign of love and support. But the duo also like to mix in contemporary designs, for the example, their new Bubble collection. The sphere shapes have been studded with diamonds in a 3D effect to embody the feeling of happiness and excitement while maintaining an effortlessly elegant charm.Here, the sisters reveal what inspired them to initially launch AJ Jewelry, and how they see the industry in the Middle East evolving. What do you love about creating jewellery? We love that there are no limits to the designs we want to create and that we have the liberty and opportunity to be as creative as we possibly can, using a variety of different colours, textures and beautiful stones. We are able to genuinely express what beauty is to us through our pieces and be able to materialise them. What is the core identity of the brand? Our pieces are mainly drawn from the traditional family values of passing down timeless jewellery as a gesture of love and support. Through our designs, we want to create a way to maintain these values while introducing modernity into the collection that speaks to the younger generation. Where do you seek inspiration? We seek inspiration from everything around us. Some designs are sharp and geometrically inspired from our beloved home in the city while our other designs include a more organic shape inspired from the starry desert sky and multifaceted dunes. 18-karat gold is our material of choice for its timelessness, lasting wearability and rich patina.

What is your first jewellery memory? Our first jewellery memory was when we first made our gold bar bracelet. Changing the direction of the company from silver to gold was a bold move that were both excited and anxious about. Thankfully it was a successful step and the bar design earned us a lot of recognition. How has the jewellery industry evolved since you started and how do you see it develop? We have noticed that there have been quite a lot of new evolving jewellery designers in our region. Even globally, we have noticed a new wave of opportunity to up and coming jewellery brands from young designers. What’s your take on jewellery in the Middle East? We think that the jewellery market in the Middle East is rapidly growing as people have been searching for more individualistic jewellery brands that they can resonate with. What is the best part about working together? While we both share the same taste in designs, we each offer different ideas that complements each other for the best outcome. We are very aligned when it comes to the concept behind the designs, so having someone you can bounce off unique ideas with is very valuable to us. And the most challenging? As both the designers and the business strategists of our brands, it can be challenging to focus on both growth and management and designing the most beautiful pieces at the same time. What is next? As our brand grows, so do our ideas and vision. Our next step is to further explore the high jewellery field. We recently launched our first two high jewellery pieces: the malachite lock choker and the art deco pendant. We think this will be a very exciting new step for our brand.

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BLING RING

Between Lebanon being a hub of local talent and the rise of emerging labels from Dubai and Saudi Arabia, Arab jewellery designers are leading the charge for innovation WO R D S : D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

We can proudly say that in this region, we are not short of inspiring and dazzling jewellery designers. An ability to combine heritage with contemporary flair is something that has an international appeal, and many have managed to build a global brand. A hard as it was to choose our favourites, we focused on those that are doing something different within the busy world of jewellery making. We expect these to be filling up your jewellery box in no time.

LX2 Studio, Egypt Cairo-based jewellery brand LX2 Studio celebrates a vibrant city with each of its collections. The brand was founded by two friends Letitia Gasser and Lina Kobeissi more than 10 years ago. Lina was an architect and Letitia worked in luxury fashion, and both had the same fascination with the discovering the world. Creating stories and experiences is

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something that makes the brand unique. Clean and delicate designs are made with 18-karat gold which is hand-crafted and set with semi-precious stones and diamonds. The geometric shapes feel contemporary; we are particularly taken with black and white diamond Neon Rings, inspired by Berlin’s neon lights and underground art scene.

NUUN Jewels, Saudi Arabia Her Royal Highness Nourah Al Faisal from Saudi Arabia balances modernity and exquisite quality in her high jewellery brand, NUUN Jewels. Established in Riyadh in 2014, in just two years she secured a prime boutique spot in Paris’s prestigious Rue du Faubourg Saint Honore address. Focusing on architectural shapes and looking to her surroundings, the collections regularly pay tribute to Nourah’s family or home.

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Jude Benhalim, Jordan Founded in 2011, Jude Benhalim is a highquality jewellery brand that caters to the fierce yet feminine, classic yet daring, edgy yet elegant woman. The Jordanian brand bring a mix of tradition and modernity styles. It has been championed by numerous stars, the latest being supermodel Adriana Lima.

L’atelier Nawbar, Lebanon L’atelier Nawbar has been creating contemporary jewellery with a traditional twist since 2011 and regularly present at Paris Fashion Week. What makes the brand unique? Lebanese sisters Dima and Tania Nawbar are fourth generation jewellers who give back to the community by enlisting local artisans and training socially disadvantaged and displaced women in handmade craft. Jewellery making is in the sisters’ blood thanks to their great-great-grandfather who started their familyrun business in the gold souk of Beirut in 1881.

Èlbé, Tunisia Sustainable and inspired by the Mediterranean, Èlbé sounds like an accessories brand made for sunny Dubai. Established by Tunisian designer Nour Ben Cheikh and Clémentine L in 2018, the brand offers a series of holiday-ready accessories, and we are particularly taken by Èlbé, meaning “my heart” in some Arabic dialects.

Gaelle Khouri, Lebanon Lebanese designer Gaelle Khouri creates pieces that turn heads by focusing on complex compositions of abstract shapes. Working with layers of precious materials intertwined with diamonds, her collections drape over the skin and follow the movement of the body. Inspired by the the way Middle Eastern women adorn themselves in statement gems, her surrealist creations have become true objects of desire and are stocked on Net-A-Porter, Farfetch and Moda Operandi, among others. Crafted from precious stones and shaped into dramatic silhouettes that echo architecture, her pieces make a statement without overwhelming.

Mejuri, Jordan The Toronto-based jewellery brand was founded in 2015 by Jordanian couple Noura Sakkijha and Maj Masad. With a staff of over 80 percent women, Mejuri is a company by women for women. The label takes a minimalistic approach to jewellery, selling timeless simple pieces like: thin gold bands, classic small hoops, the occasional pearl earrings, and diamonds.

ZAGH, Egypt Catering to modern Egyptian magpies and beyond, Cairo-based jewellery brand ZAGH grabbed our

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attention for its contemporary aesthetic and creative use of shapes. Founder Riham Zaghloul decided to launch her own label in 2015 when she couldn’t find any pieces that reflect her desire for something truly unique. Armed with a degree in computer sciences and business and experience from working in software engineering, she went to create pieces that pay tribute to art and nature. Although she has a design studio in Italy and looks to Germany as a source for silver, ZAGH remains a proud Egyptian brand by using traditional techniques like hammering, stone setting and carving.

Savolinna Jewelry, Dubai Savolinna is the brainchild of Hessa Al Shafar, an Emirati entrepreneur making a bold footprint on the contemporary jewellery design scene with her unique approach to colours, shapes and layering. After gaining a Graduate Certificate in Public Relations, Hessa’s attitude towards bespoke luxury naturally took her to fine jewellery. Combining skills in creative management with gemstone expertise acquired from the International Gemological Institute, Savolinna Fine Jewelry was launched in Dubai in 2017.

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Lillian Ismail, Saudi Arabia As far as we can remember, at 17 we were still figuring out which degree to take up at University, but Jeddah-born Lillian Ismail was already shaping her jewellery business. What started as a high-school graduation project, resulted in her being dubbed as Saudi Arabia’s “Youngest Jewellery Designer”, and she didn’t stop there. She took her creative spirit to New York’s Pratt Institute where she obtained her bachelor’s degree in jewellery-making. After an internship at Oscar De La Renta, she decided to launch her namesake label in 2018. Her pieces, or “artwork” as she refers to her designs, are used as a medium to express concepts from her culture and Islamic background, which are then blended with contemporary aesthetic she developed in the New York. All of her rings, brooches, necklaces and earrings are handmade locally in her hometown, Jeddah, and she uses materials like onyx and emerald across her spheric shapes.

Aisha Baker, Dubai Every piece of jewellery tells a story and for her second high jewellery collection, Emirati brand Aisha Baker wanted to turn fantasy into reality. Named “Frozen in Time”, the pieces conjure visions of a frozen world, with the distinctive emblem of an icy blue peony and materials including sapphires, diamonds, quartz and white gold. The collection will be released in two parts, starting with The Peony Symphony consisting of a bracelet, ring and earrings. Inspired by traditional Asian ceramic art, the blue flowers look pressed into transparent quartz for a dreamlike effect.

Sandbox, Egypt Sandbox is a conceptual jewellery brand that expresses unique human experiences through artistic pieces. Founder Suhayla Al Sheikh was born in Egypt and raised in Saudi Arabia. Her mother was a jewellery designer and her father a photographer. At just 18, she was awarded an artistic achievement award for her realistic paintings signed by President Barack Obama, which further fortified her love for art and pushed her to study Visual Arts at the American University in Cairo. Suhayla works with Egyptian silver artisans who create each piece by hand, while she dedicates her time to design and crafting the stones. Using her platform to raise awareness, in early 2019 she shot a campaign for her collection “Timbre” in aim to shine a light on diversity and inclusivity and then went on to launch collection “Salt” to highlight the issue of pollution in our oceans.

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Are beauty and fashion industries doing enough in the name of diversity and inclusivity? Rohma NomaniTheunissen investigates

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he female form has been the subject of scrutiny and admiration since before ancient times, when poets marvelled at the litheness of a slim ankle, or the rounds of a deity's bosom. As time has passed, the bold commoditisation of women’s appearance continues centuries later, to exert societal pressure to conform to a set notion of beauty ideals which have shifted drastically from decade to decade. As evidenced by numerous studies and ancedotal evidence who doesn't have a story about unwanted attention zeroed in on their physical features? - girls and women have been subjected to unwarranted commentary on their appearance, from those who know and love them as well as those who don’t. With the advent of inescapable social media, modern-day beauty ideals are more unrealistic than ever before. The ‘Kardashian-Jenner’ effect has popularised a facial structure and body shape that is virtually impossible to attain without the help of a skilled cosmetic surgeon. Add on filters, photoshop and airbrushing tools, for unrealistic images that would make any otherwise healthy and confident woman feel unsure of her appearance. These are the images that women are being exposed to for hours on end every single day; with the average time spent on social media ranging anywhere between three to nine hours a day depending on their age group. In a world where women are repeatedly outperforming

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BODY FAS H I O N


IMAGES: GETTY

their male counterparts when given equal opportunities in their education, and with slow progress in tackling discrimination in the workplace, the concept of beauty ideals feels highly antiquated. So when the body positivity movement started to gain momentum, the excitement was palpable. A new form of female beauty started to emerge; celebrating a universally inclusive standard of beauty that didn’t discriminate. And it was about time. The movement is finally starting to change the manner in which the fashion and beauty industries operate; instilling the updated definition of beauty to replace the exclusionary existing one. The Victoria’s Secret fashion show, arguably the mostwatched fashion spectacle in the world with 9.2 million viewers at its peak in 2014, was cancelled in 2019. The show, which first aired in 1995, was renowned for its rigorous selection methods with the likes of Bella Hadid, Heidi Klum and Gigi Hadid openly talking about the excruciating diet and workout programs they adopted to ‘get in shape’ for the high-profile shows. In the very year that the Victoria’s Secret fashion show was cancelled, Rihanna took her revolutionary fashion agenda to New York Fashion Week with her Savage x Fenty show which embraced the beauty of the everyday women. The lingerie presentation showcased a diverse new beauty ideal, with women of all ages, colours, shapes and sizes dazzling the fashion and entertainment world with their confidence. The result? International appreciation for the superstar’s visionary approach for the debut of her LVMH-backed brand. In the North American and European markets, models including Ashley Graham, Winnie Harlow, Halima Aden and Rebekah Marine are diversifying the traditional fashion model stereotype, albeit still within a conventionally attractive scope. The reverberations of the movement have been felt worldwide, including in the Middle East. Tunisian-born Ameni Esseibi, became the Arab world’s first plus-size model when she finally signed on with three Dubai modelling agencies in September 2018 after a year of persistence. The model’s vision consequently paid off when US-based, sizeinclusive luxury e-tailer 11 Honoré chose Ameni to front their Middle East launch campaign. Meanwhile in Morroco, model Tilila Oulhaj has become the face of Marrakech’s authentic fashion movement; her inimitable cool girl style heightened only by her striking freckles. In Saudi Arabia, up-andcoming model Shahad Salman has been internationally recognised for her unique vitiligo markings which have the industry-

DYSPHORIA at-large comparing her to one of vitiligo’s iconic ambassadors, model Winnie Harlow. Beauty mogul Huda Kattan utilised her billion-dollar brand to create a dedicated campaign to celebrate imperfect beauty. The Huda Beauty campaign, developed in tandem with Pakistani artist Sara Shakeel, highlighted the models' perceived imperfections instead of concealing them by decorating them with glitter. The campaign went viral, amassing global attention with influencers clamouring to showcase their ‘imperfections’ on social media with the use of glitter – marking the first instance in which audiences of millions were allowed glimpses of their typically hidden stretchmarks, birth marks and natural ‘flaws’. Dubai-based journalist Danae Mercer, has been another advocate for the advancement of the body positivity movement in the Middle East. The 33-yearold has recently opened up her to give an eye-opening, behind-the-scenes look at how she uses photo trickery, angles and posing to create content for her feed. Documenting everything from her stretch marks and spider

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veins to her bloating and cellulite, Danae is bringing about a welcomed sense of realness by drawing attention to the normalcy of imperfections and how influencers like her disguise them for social media, But is this enough, given that all of these examples are still ticking off a list of "desirable" physical traits, with the models with striking vitiligo always being thin, and plus-sized campaigns showcasing clear skin and nipped-in waists. While there is a long way to go, it is encouraging to see that we are on the right track. Body positivity should not be a mere movement, but rather the norm – one that promotes health, wellbeing, self-love and gratitude above all else. Fashion has always been, first and foremost, a documentation of the underlying societal moods and themes within any period in history. Therefore, at a time where women are shattering glass ceilings in every aspect of society, why is it that fashion is holding back? It’s time to reset, regroup and pave the way for a decade of female empowerment which will serve to lift women up higher than ever before.

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Amongst the dunes For the first time, contemporary art exhibition Desert X has travelled from Coachella Valley to AlUla’s golden canyon in Saudi Arabia. The event shines a light on regional and international artists for a crosscultural exploration of desert culture and it runs until March 7. We meet four female artists taking part in the groundbreaking cultural event in The Kingdom C O M P I L E D BY: D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

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Who: Lita Albuquerque, based in Santa Monica What: “NAJMA” How did growing up in Tunisia inspire you and influence your artistic practice? Growing up in Tunisia, in a Catholic Convent in Carthage overlooking the Carthagenian ruins and the Mediterranean gave me a sense of history rooted in the earth itself, and a sense of place rooted in colour and the natural elements like the wind and light. It also gave me a sense of ritual as we would pray in the Catholic chapel LI in the convent every sunrise and sunset, and hear the sound of prayers sung from the Mosques at 5:20 in the morning and 5:20 in the evening daily. There was a sense of sacredness in both cultures that was rhythmic and followed the natural pattern of the Earth rotating around the sun. Everything about being there influenced my artistic practice: the constant movement of the wind and the people; the colours red, blue and gold found both in religious Christian icons and in Islamic art. The Islamic art found in the calligraphy and architecture all around me. The sound of constant music like Oum Khalsum mixed in with the wind coming in from the beach. The sense of poetry; the connection to the Earth, to the sand, to the rocks and to the stars. Leaving Tunisia at a young age also influenced my practice, it made me question identity, and who we are in relation to location and placement on the planet and in the universe.  What is your connection to the colour cobalt blue? Can you tell us about the choice of colour in your work? The colour blue was all around me growing up in Tunisia. From the blue of the Mediterranean that surrounded me as far as I could see, to the white and blue of the architecture in the town of Sidi Bou Said where I grew up, wanting to unite earth and sky, and proclaiming that my work is about the relationship of earth and sky through blue.  Where did the name of your piece for Desert X Alula, NAJMA come from? The name "NAJMA" means 'star' in Arabic.  The title also includes the phrase (She Placed One Thousand Suns On The Transparent Overlays Of Space). I wanted to be obvious that the sculpture who represents a 25th Century female Astronaut who comes to Earth to seed interstellar consciousness also came from a star, hence her name. Can you tell us more about why you chose the participate in Desert X AlUla? Art is a revolutionary tool and we must seize the moment! I will never forget witnessing one of those moments in 1956 in Tunisia. I was 10 years old and sitting in my mother’s verandah in the fishing village of La Goulette when the earth started trembling and I could hear what at first was a rumble which became a roar of “Haijah Bourguiba, Haijah Bourguiba. Haijah Bourguiba “ as tens of thousands of people had come all the way from the Sahara, from the south, from the centre of Tunisia from the north to greet their leader Bourguiba, who was to lead them to revolution and freedom arriving by ship in front of my mother’s house on that day in 1956, everyone unifying for a single cause of change. This is what I feel we have been privileged to be part of in the year 2020. Can you explain to us more about use of live performance in your practice?  I am increasingly drawn to live performance in my practice.  My original passion as a child was theatre and dance, and I have followed dance quite extensively. My daughter Jasmine Albuquerque, with whom I regularly collaborate, is a dancer and choreographer and has greatly influenced my practice. It is also because I am rooted in ideas of movement of the cosmos.  I have always been fascinated with the difference between stillness and motion.  That in fact the Earth itself is in constant motion, I am interested in activating and speaking to that idea through live performance. 

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Who: Sherin Guirguis from Egypt, based in L.A What: “Kholkhal Aliaa” installation How do you describe your work? My practice focus on the work of historically important women poets, craftspeople and others who have been marginalised, forgotten or erased over time.  What does the “One I Call” sculpture stand for or reflect? "One I Call" is a site-specific sculpture that reflects on the complex web of narratives surrounding deserts and desert communities. The piece is modelled after traditional pigeon towers found throughout the desert villages of Egypt.  The practice of homing pigeons spans multiple traditions, illustrating a narrative of migration across space and time. The piece stands at once as a beacon, a sanctuary and a memorial for the people and communities of the desert whose histories are often dismissed or marginalised.  It address concerns of cultural agency, environmental protection and displacement at stake in the Coachella Valley and many similar desert communities across the world. "One I Call" also references the work of Nadar Khalili, an Iranian-American architect who developed a sustainable and economical system of building shelters called superadobe. Your last three exhibitions were about the Egyptian activist and poet Doria Shafik - what made you focus on her? I focused on Doria’s work because it became apparent to me that very few people knew or remembered the important work she did throughout her life to support women’s rights in Egypt and internationally.  Such an important activist whose work led to the suffrage of women in Egypt should be remembered by us all.  Her lifelong dedication to women’s rights is an inspiration for me and I wanted to share that with the next generation of women.  To remember and honour her work and be inspired by her once more.  Do you relate to Doria Shafik's life? Do you find links between her life and yours? I am inspired by her ability to be a mother, a poet, a publisher and an activist.  I can relate to that in some ways. I can also relate to her feeling of displacement form home.   Can you explain to me the process of translating history to abstract art? I often use architecture and text to formally translate historical narratives into abstract paintings and sculptures.  I research the significant sites specific to the history or person I'm researching and use elements from that site that in the work. Additionally, when appropriate, I use text that relates to that narrative which is then embedded in some of the “decorative" and “ornamental" elements of the architecture.  This way the words and the site come together create an informal monument to that lost moment.


SHERIN GUIRGUIS

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M A N A L A L D O WAYA N

Who: Manal AlDowayan from Saudi Arabia, based in Dubai What: “Now You See Me, Now You Don’t” installation How do you represent women in your artwork? I usually address the issues. For example, from the very beginning when I spoke about women in employment, it was because I was in a career and I did a collection called "I Am", based on the arguments I had about my nature as a women and what jobs suit me as a women. If you read through all my artist statements on my website, you will notice that this conversation is very personal, but women do mirror what I feel as an individual. Can you tell us briefly about the main focus of your artistic approach for people who are not familiar with your artwork? I’m a multimedia artist that works in subjects that address

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invisibility and disappearance, and visibility and appearance. I am mostly described as a conceptual artist because my concepts remain the same, whilst my materials constantly change depending on the situation of the artwork. What kind of challenges did you face when you first started photography? I found it difficult to find my space in the public sphere, photographing in the street or public spaces was quite complicated as it was not a common thing. But I think those kinds of restrictions really helped me change my practise and evolve it, and let it become what it is today. I created a couple of collections done from a moving car, from rooftops of buildings which sort of addressed this exclusion from the public sphere by creating collections of images which defied the idea of the public space, by being there but not really being there. Tell us about your most recent piece of work and what you are working on? My most recent work I have done is for Desert X AlUla, "Now You See Me, Now You Don’t", and I am currently working on a new commission in Japan which is yet to be announced.

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ZAHRAH AL GHAMDI

Who: Zahrah Al Ghamdi, from Saudi Arabia, based in Jeddah What: “Glimpses of the Past” How many exhibitions have you done and which one is your favourite? In recent years, I have exhibited in more than 15 exhibitions including representing Saudi Arabia’s pavilion at Venice Biennale last year. My most recent exhibition is Desert X AlUla where I am showing "Glimpses of the Past", an installation that consists of approximately 6000 tin date containers of different sizes, laid out across 80 metres against the terrain of AlUla. The artwork is an ode to AlUla’s agricultural wealth; its plentiful palm tree groves that have fueled the area’s trade for generations and the springs of water that have sustained them. What is your main inspiration? It’s important for me to smell the sand and feel it with my own hands, because those senses of touch and smell allow my work a synergy, and if I don’t get that synergy, I can’t work. The sand should smell natural, like the smell of rain on land, the smell that manifests like steam when it rains. How did you start the idea of using materials to attract the attention of the viewers? I started using materials to ritualize themes of identity and loss. For instance, for my work at Desert X AlUla, I have repurposed the date containers, traditionally used for the storage and transport of dates, to create what resembles a sparkling, flowing river with multiple tributaries. Filled with five different shades of sand and mirrors, the work becomes a metaphorical representation of AlUla’s significance in being a crossroads of civilizations in history and a cultural hub today attracting visitors from around the world. The experience of the artwork transforms it to the point that it ceases to be about date farming at all and appears as an organic part of the landscape. It awakens a deep sense of nostalgia as the mountains and

sky reflect off the shiny surfaces of the containers and mirrors within. How did you evolve your artistic vision? Growing up in th southwestern region of Saudi Arabia surrounded by traditional Aseeri architecture has played an integral role in my practice. I then moved to Jeddah where I completed my undergraduate’s degree in Islamic Arts from King Abdulaziz University. I also hold a Master’s Degree specialising in Contemporary Craft from Coventry University in England, where I also obtained my P.H.D in Design and Visual Art. I am now a faculty member of the Art and Design Department at Jeddah University. Who influenced or influences you in terms of other artists? I am influenced by lan art and artists such as Robert Smithson, Richard Long and Andy Goldsworthy. What can you tell us about the young artist talents in Saudi Arabia and the Gulf? The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia is currently experiencing a strong artistic revolution, which is helped by the emergence of many artists who have high capabilities of creative thinking. Also, the government, galleries and other art organisations have supported many artistic events, which helped encourage artists to participate in a burgeoning contemporary art scene. On the Gulf level, we find that there is a lot of collaboration between countries artistic communities, which has led to an increase in cultural and artistic interconnection.

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Under the patronage of H.H. Sheikha Shamseh bint Hamad bin Mohammed Al Sharqi, Platform 09 celebrates, supports, and brings together female Arab designers, artists and entrepreneurs into one creative space. Below, she discusses what female empowerment means today and her hopes for the concept space in the future

CELEBRATION OF SUCCESS C O M P I L E D B Y: D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

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One of Platform 09’s key aims is to empower woman, when was the last time you felt empowered? I am most empowered when

I am empowering others. At the opening of Platform 09 every year, I take a tour to meet and greet our exhibitors, this is probably my favourite part of Platform 09. Meeting these women, being present with them gives me unlimited energy. Their passion, determination and persistence is remarkable, very inspiring and empowering.

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What does female empowerment mean today and what can we do more to support one another more? I think female empowerment

has definitely evolved in the last 10 years. The conversations we are now having are about the support we receive from the male community. Women have been supporting each other emotionally, physically and intellectually forever, but now we are beginning to understand that men can choose to play an important role in supporting and sustaining equality. There is a significant awareness in this generation that the mindset of equality comes from education, both at home and at school. I believe this is where

the women empowerment movement is most dynamic at this present time. Each year, the exhibition draws attention to a different local charity, which charity has been chosen this time? I strongly believe that

supporting charity is a patriotic duty and its every person’s obligation to contribute, but to also raise awareness and create a stable and safe atmosphere for these charities to grow and expand their activities. For six years we have supported and focused our time and effort to shed light on and raise awareness on a variety of charities and causes. The charity we have nominated this year is our Zero Nine Tribe. It is because of them we have managed to support various charities in the past, and therefore we are offering complimentary entry for everyone. With 90 female Arab designers, artists and entrepreneurs participating in the event, is this a sign that the position of Arab women in business is only going to grow? Absolutely, I

certainly hope so! Each year the diversity in the demographics of our exhibitors expands. We have all ages represented, multiple Arab nationalities and lifestyles. It is important

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to acknowledge the strength of this region, it has so much potential, I truly believe that this positive growth will lead to a bright promising future. What have you learnt about yourself since Platform 09 launched?

Oh, so much more than even I could ever imagine. This experience has helped me find my place as a leader and as a beacon showing the way for my community, which in turn helped me understand the importance of my role. I am grateful that I have this incredible opportunity and I am constantly in awe of the strength and potential of Arab women. But most importantly, I have learned that passion can transform anyone into an energetic force. How do you hope to evolved Platform 09 in the future? I look forward to expanding our

tribe and our message and vision to the Arab region. In doing so, I hope to inspire the entire community to support, encourage, share knowledge with and celebrate each other. I would like to invite all of our community to join our annual celebration of women and their success.

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Raiding the fashion scene in the region and beyond, there’s never been a more exciting time for Middle Eastern designers t o make their mark

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here are certain qualities that Arab designers seem to have in common. They are extremely proud of their heritage, they are determined to educate the global audience through the modern way they pay tribute to it, and their preservation of traditional craft. Despite Arab fashion being associated with glamorous eveningwear and intricate couture, the new generation are looking to streetwear – think Arwa Al Banawi’s slick approach blended with her Saudi heritage - and contemporary separates that are appealing to international shoppers, including celebrities. SemSem can count Blake Lively, Olivia Palermo, and Gigi Hadid as firm fans, while Dubai-based Bouguessa has been snapped up by international influencers and actress Kristen Bell. Meanwhile London-based Syrian designer Nabil El-Nayal has secured a grant from the British Fashion Council’s Fashion Trust that he will use to grow and develop the brand that focuses on a modern twist to Elizabethan craftsmanship. Elsewhere, we see visionary events like Fashion Forward Dubai providing another platform for regional talent establish their name and connect to their consumers and fans. There is always talent to be discovered, and below we have gathered some of the names we will be keeping a particularly close eye on over the coming months.

WO R D S : D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

takeover Yousef Akbar Born in Saudi Arabia, Yousef Akbar’s brand is built on creating ethical and responsible couture and ready-to-wear garments that allow his customers to look and feel good. Akbar uses recycled materials and supports local artisans in small communities from the Middle East and around the world in his manufacturing process. He has recently won the Not Just A Label (NJAL) competition to showcase his collection at the April edition of Fashion Forward Dubai.

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Romani

Jordanian designer Haya Jarrar has based her edgy yet feminine label in Dubai only recently, but she has managed to accumulate a roster of local fans such as Jessica Kahawaty and Karen Wazen. After securing her fashion design degree she went on to work as a buyer before launching her debut Fall 2018 collection. She envisioned her woman as someone who is unapologetic about her style and wants to stand out, no matter her age.

Jeux de Mains

Born and raised in Beirut, Salim Cherfane came into the fashion world by way of graphic design and art, which are distinctly present in his creations. He studied at L’Academie Libanaise des Beaux Arts before showcasing his first collection in 2018. His ambition is to make people smile through his collages of bold colours, loud patterns and clean cuts, creating versatile ready-to-wear compositions that are graphic and fun. Oh, and Beyoncé is one of his fans.

Katrine Hanna

While we scroll through the sold-out selection from Bottega Veneta, why not feast your eyes on equally fabulous creations from Dubai-based brand Katrine Hanna. Namesake label of an Australian-Lebanese designer, the piece are made to add some creative flair to your collection of footwear. Katrine likes to experiment with materials and colours, from elegant golden mules to shoes featuring the brand's signature banksia seed heel.

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Niili

Focusing on delicate prints, wrap-around silhouettes, intricate detail consisting of pearls, the collection feels free-spirited yet will not look out of place in an urban setting. Using only natural fabrics such as silk and viscose, each item is made with comfort and breathability in mind. Headed up by Emirati businessman, Khaled Al Zaabi, and Spanish Creative Director Paula Quetglas-Llop – who has previously worked at Elie Saab – Niili is a brand that celebrates the culture of the Emirates and wants to share it with the rest of the world.

The Nou Project

Founded by Saudi-born Nour Al Tamimi and her co-designer Lebaneseborn Basma Chidiac, The Nou Project blends fashion and art. They let up-and-coming artists use their sneakers as a blank canvas to create limited quantities of pieces. The sneakers become numbered collectibles in support of artist recognition.

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Anatomi

Doa’a Alghouti launched her luxury-brand, Anatomi, in 2015 with an aim to decorate your wardrobe with modest and elegant pieces. Before pursuing fashion, Alghouti studied interior design and still looks to architecture for inspiration. She likes to experiment with redefined silhouettes, luxurious textiles, fresh colours and applying elements of modern couture to her designs. With comfort and timeless sensibility in mind, expect elements of tailoring and luxury throughout.


Art Dubai

Art enthusiast or not, our pick of regional artists will inspire and intrigue you

Alia Ali, Yemen Represented by Galerie-Peter-Sillem, Bawwaba This Yemeni-Bosnian-American multi-media artist has travelled to 63 countries, lived in seven and grown up among five languages, and, not surprisingly, her most comfortable mode of communication is through image and multi-sensory mediums. If you haven’t already seen her work, now’s the time.

Ali uses bright African prints and fabrics in her work, and is part of the Bawwaba section at Art Dubai. Expect artwork that reflects on the politics and poetics surrounding topics of identity, borders, universality, confinement and the inherent dualism that exists in everything.

ALSO EXHIBITING AT ART DUBAI ARE: MOUNIRA AL SOLH, LEBANON Represented by Sfeir-Semler Gallery Her work uses irony and selfreflection as a way to explore feminist issues, tracks patterns of micro-history, is socially engaged, and can be political and escapist all at once. SARA RAHBAR, IRAN Represented by Carbon 12 Rahbar studied in London and New York, and now spends most of her productive life between Tehran and New York. In this going back and forth, an apocalyptic memory has been revised in her reworking of traditional materials into protocontemporary textiles and textures of national belonging.

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SARAH ABU-ABDALLAH, SAUDI ARABIA Represented by Athr Through references to gender roles and the female experience, Sarah Abu Abdullah explores issues of obscurity and value, probing the social and cultural conditions of contemporary Saudi Arabia. MERIEM BENNANI, MOROCCO Represented by Gallery Isabelle van den Eynd Bennani’s work, which she regularly publishes on social media outlets, applies unexpected humour and an absurdist sensibility to typically sensitive or taboo subjects, such as the wearing of the hijab by Muslim women. The 14th edition of Art Dubai takes place from March 25-28, 2020, at Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai.


LA BEAUTÉ HERMÈS, PHOTOGRAPHY JOAQUIN LAGUINGE

BEAUTY FILE

THE KNOW-HOW Good things take time, and Hermès Beauty is no exception. The French maison has finally unveiled its first foray into colour cosmetics with the launch of the chicest collection of lipsticks. Rouge Hermès is available in 24 shades, each inspired by the house’s iconic archives of 75,000 silks and 900 leathers, and come in both matte and satin finishes. The light scent of the lipstick was created by the brand’s fragrance director Christine Nagel, while the refillable, plasticfree, tri-coloured cases, were designed by the creative director of Hermès jewellery and shoes, Pierre Hardy.


The Beauty Drawer This month our Editor-in-Chief, Amy Sessions, shares some of her daily essentials including a beloved Tom Ford fragrance and celebrated skincare range from UAE-based brand Shiffa

P H OTO G R A P H Y: MUSTUFA ABIDI

STYLING: DIANA B E L L- H E AT H E R

Clockwise from left: Aromatic Facial Cleanser Dhs320 Shiffa at Sephora; Lucas' Papaw Ointment Dhs28 Lucas'; Noir Extreme EDP Dhs677 Tom Ford; Pure Canvas Illuminating Primer Dhs168 Laura Mercier at Sephora; Celestial Black Diamond Eye Mask Box of 8 Dhs395 111SKIN; Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex Dhs217 Estée Lauder; Healing Balm Dhs420 Shiffa at Sephora; Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment Dhs405 Sunday Riley at Sephora; Glowgasm Beauty Light Wand in Pinkgasm Dhs175 Charlotte Tilbury

BBEE AAUUTT YY

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RETINOL Reading between the lines WO R D S : TAT I A N A B O N C O M PAG N I , E D I T E D B Y: A M Y S E S S I O N S


Q. How is the retinol in my favorite brand of skin care different from those I need a prescription for? All are derived from vitamin A, but the prescriptionstrength formulations are more potent. These include tretinoin (sold under brand names like Retin-A, Atralin and Renova) and tazarotene (Tazorac) and adapalene (Differin), which the Food and Drug Administration approved in 2016 to be sold without a prescription. They work by binding with the retinoic acid receptors in the DNA of skin cells, encouraging faster turnover and preventing the production of collagenases, an enzyme that causes the breakdown of collagen in the skin. “Over-the-counter retinols can give you the same results of a prescription,” said Marnie Nussbaum, a dermatologist in Manhattan and an assistant professor at Cornell NewYork-Presbyterian Hospital. “It will just take longer.” Last time I tried a retinol my skin got so irritated. How can I avoid that happening again? First-time users often experience dry, red and peeling skin, a

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reaction called retinization. “It’s normal to get mild redness and mild exfoliation,” Nussbaum said. Gerald Imber, a plastic surgeon and founder of the Youth Corridor Clinic, an aesthetic center on the Upper East Side, advises that you start with a nickel-size dollop of retinol product. “People seem to think that if a little bit is good, a lot is better,” Imber said. “Excessive irritation is not a sign that you are getting a better result from it.” Similarly, Shani Darden, a celebrity facialist in Los Angeles, tells her clients to start using their retinol once a week, adding a day each week. “Use it as often as your skin can tolerate it,” said Darden, who also recommends applying a moisturiser before your retinol if it is making your skin too dry. Susan Cox, a dermatologist in Newport Beach, California, counsels patients to dial back on other products in their regimens that may be irritating, like glycolic or salicylic acids and vitamin C. Q. I’m in my 20s. Am I too young to start using a retinol? The 20s are not too young, according to Nussbaum, who noted that retinols can “prevent photo damage, increase skin cell turn over and decrease acne breakouts.” “Retinols are good to use nightly to protect the skin from external damages such as the environment and pollutants, which you are exposed to at an early age,” she said. Higher Education Skincare, a new beauty line focused on millennial and Gen Z consumers, with Cox as a partnering dermatologist, sells MBA, a night serum with 0.5 percent retinol. One thing for women in their 20s to keep in mind, though, is that retinols are not recommended for pregnant and nursing women. As Robert Anolik, a dermatologist in Manhattan and a clinical assistant professor at the NYU School of Medicine, said, there is evidence of risk so during this time these products are best avoided. Q. Why can’t I use my retinol during the day or in the sun? The main reason, Anolik said, is because the sun’s ultraviolet rays render retinols inactive. “So many people fear a toxic reaction to the sun, but there’s actually no evidence of photo-allergy or phototoxicity with retinols,” he said, adding that your skin may be slightly more sensitive to the sun because of the exfoliating effect of retinols on the skin, so good sun protection is a must.

© 2019 NEW YORK TIMES NEWS SERVICE

Cockwise from top left: Night Switch Retinol 1% Dhs120 Lixir; Night Cream 3 Dhs420 Verso; Benefiance Pure Retinol Intensive Revitalizing Face Mask x 4 Dhs270; Shiseido; Celestial Black Diamond Retinol Oil Dhs630 111SKIN; Luna Sleeping Night Oil Dhs185 Sunday Riley. All images Net-A-Porter 142 emirateswoman.com

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etinols have long been touted as one of the most effective treatments for increasing collagen in the skin, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, fighting acne and evening out pigmentation. They are, said Murad Alam, a dermatologist in Chicago and president of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, “the best-studied and most-evidence-backed topical medications for reducing the visible signs of aging due to sun exposure.” While the benefits of retinols may not be news, the sky-rocketing number of products laced with them is. According to the market research firm NPD, sales of retinols in department stores and specialty retailers like Sephora, Ulta and Blue Mercury in the United States jumped 27 percent last year, while the overall category (clinical ingredients) increased by 7 percent. And yet, despite their popularity — or perhaps because of it — retinols are confusing and can be hard to use. Robin Shobin, the founder and editor of Charlotte’s Book, an online beauty portal, said she receives more questions about retinols than any other skin-care ingredient. “I think it’s a function of there being so much information, and misinformation, out there,” Shobin said. “And so many different types of products.”


Not so perfect When Rihanna launched Fenty Beauty, she completely transformed the industry with her boldly unapologetic approach to diversity, inclusivity and celebrating imperfections. We grab a few minutes to discuss her personal vision of true beauty and where she draws her unshakeable confidence from 144 emirateswoman.com

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C O M P I L E D BY: E M M A C O I L E R

When did you learn to embrace your own idea of what is beautiful?

It happens when you finally learn to love yourself. Love yourself, love your body, and 100% be yourself. If you do that – ain't nobody going to steal your happiness. That’s the key when you love yourself – nobody else can be in charge of your happiness. That’s beautiful, a woman who is happy with herself. What do you think women look for when choosing makeup?

Apart from the obvious which is wanting to look good, I think women want to feel included as well. That was so important to me and a big part of what we have tried to do – to make sure that the range is inclusive of all women – and not just if you look a certain way. Your campaigns and products focus on diversity and inclusivity; do you think cosmetics industry can call itself diverse? Like a lot of

areas, I think there has been progression, but there is always room for improvement. I always wanted to bring out a beauty line it was a natural fit for me when make-up has been such a huge part of my career and image, but I wanted it to be inclusive and we will continue to strive to do that. What more can be done? There just needs to be basic questions asked. Is this inclusive and is this for women of all colours and skin tones? I am also a big believer in not promoting perfection. It doesn’t exist and we should stop projecting that it does onto women. Who taught you about body positivity and self-love? I grew up with independent women around and when you have that you have a role model. Both my grandmother and my mum were strong independent women – they had to be. They were both independent women who made things happen for themselves, and I am so thankful I grew up around women like that. What do you do to make yourself feel confident? Every single day I just do me. I am myself. Fashion and make up can make you feel confident for sure, just make sure you are doing it to make you feel good and aren’t trying to impress anybody else. I do like to take risks – I think a big part of fashion is about taking risks – but it’s not to get a reaction or cause controversy, it’s because I like what I am wearing. When was the last time you felt self-conscious, and how did you overcome that? It would be great that if we as women didn’t have

days when we were self-conscious or we aren’t as confident as normal, but that isn’t the reality of life. When I have those days, I make sure I remove myself from any negativity, but the truth is sometimes we have to pretend. Even when we don’t feel like it, show up and act like you are the most confident women in that room.

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We are obsessed with Full Frontal Volume, Lift & Curl Mascara, will your next set of products continue to focus on the eyes? I am glad

you like it, I love the product as well. The fact you can volume, lift, and curl all with one product will be amazing for women. We are always working on products, but my aims are the same as they were when we started Fenty, and that’s that all products will be credible. What is your personal motto? Never a failure, always a lesson. Describe the view from your window today? I am in London at the moment, so my view is of one my favourite cities in the world. I always love visiting here and performing here. It is a city with so much life, with so much to do, I always have so much fun here. Complete this sentence, being beautiful means… Embracing your uniqueness. The biggest mistake we can make as women is to start comparing ourselves with other women. There is a lot of pressure on social media, especially for younger women who are trying to figure out who they are. Women thrive when they are who they are meant to be – that is beauty for me.

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Boldly Go

Throw out the beauty rule book this season and dare to clash dusty pink lids with ruby red lips, try glitter for day time and wing that eyeliner like you never winged it before


PHOTOGRAPHER: MOEZ ACHOUR

ART DIRECTION, MAKEUP & HAIR: SHARON DRUGAN

Left page: Extreme Lash Mascara Ultra Black Dhs147 Hourglass; Gimme Brow + Volumizing Eyebrow Gel 3.5 Dhs130 Benefit Cosmetics; Rock ‘N’ Kohl Bedroom Black Dhs130 Matte Revolution Lipstick in Pillow Talk Dhs145 both Charlotte Tilbury; Tantour in Fair Dhs110 Huda Beauty; This page: Le Phyto-Rouge in 41 Rouge Miami Dhs210 Sisley-Paris


This page: Mercury Retrograde Palette Dhs278 Huda Beauty; Eyeliner Waterproof in 094 Trinidad Black Dhs110 Dior; Stunna Lip Paint in Undefeated Dhs95 Fenty Beauty; Blue Lip Shine Dhs95 Apa; Extreme Lash Mascara Dhs105 Hourglass


This page: Gimmebrow + Volumizing eyebrow gel 3.5 Dhs130 Benefit Cosmetics; 5 Couleurs Eyeshadow Palette Dhs275 Dior; Instant Eye Palette Pillow Talk Dhs400 and Full Fat Lashes Mascara Glossy Black Dhs135 both Charlotte Tilbury; Intense Liquid Matte in Seductive Red Dhs125 Guerlain; Ambient Lighting Palette Dhs325 Hourglass


MODEL – BENEDICKTE GAMMELGAARD; RETOUCHER – IRENE VELWEISS

This page: Intense Matte Lip + Cheek Pencil in Royal Dhs95 Nudestix; Lipglass Clear Dhs80 Mac; Beauty Light Wand in Spotlight Dhs165 Charlotte Tilbury Right page: Les Phyto Ombres in Glow Silver Dhs180 and So Volume Mascara in Deep Black Dhs235 both Sisley-Paris; Roller Liner Matte Liquid Eyeliner in Deep Black Dhs125 Benefit Cosmetics; Terracotta Thalia Island Bronzing & Blush Powder Dhs265 Guerlain; Stunna Lip Paint Dhs95 Fenty Beauty; Lip Glass in Clear Dhs80 Mac; Rock ‘N’ Kohl in Bedroom Black Dhs130 Charlotte Tilbury


Skin prep: Skin Yoglow Enzyme Scrub Dhs145 Whishful; Black Rose Skin Infusion Cream Dhs680 Sisley Paris; Light Wonder Foundation in 6 Medium Dhs200 Charlotte Tilbury; Veil Mineral Primer Dhs100 Hourglass; Forever Skin Correct in 4N Dhs130 Dior; Invisimatte Blotting Powder Dhs160 Fenty Beauty


Hot New Buys

As you fly around the world from one fashion week to another, take note of some of the best products to take with you WORDS: CECILIA D’SOUZA

At every chance

Any product from Chanel makes it straight to the top of our lust list. And with the Chance fragrance pens and Chance Eau Tendre Hair Oil it is no different. As we move around the world from one fashion show to another, we can slip these products into our bag (or pocket, yes they are that travel-friendly) and carry with us to discreetly refresh the scent on our skin and hair. We know you will love them too. Available in a set of four at Dhsxxx.

Eyes on you

When Sisley first launched it's Black Rose Cream Mask in 2011, it rose to cult beauty status in record time. The line was then further enriched with the addition of Black Rose Precious Face Oil and Black Rose Skin Infusion Cream. The Black Rose Eye Contour, which is being launched this month, we’re sure will be no different. A delicate, pinkhued emulsion, it will infuse the area around your eyes with radiance, freshness and smoothness. You will certainly notice and get noticed. Dhsxxx

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Diamond rush

Following from the launch of Pink Diamond range, Rodial has added two innovative and high-performance products to the range – The Pink Diamond Lip and Eye Filler Dhs297 and the Pink Diamond Lifting Oil Dhs495. Enhanced with loads of anti-aging and lifting benefits to give your skin the ultimate pick-me-up and a healthy, radiant glow. Available at Harvey Nichols – Dubai, Bloomingdales and online at beautysolutions-me.com

Hear it

Au naturel doesn’t have to mean low key. This spring is all about a perspective shift on neutral. On runways and beyond, sheer textures and nude shades are transformed through sharp execution and extreme saturation, taking them into territories favoured by the bold. The Loud and Clear range from Mac includes eight single eye shadows in sunbaked browns, creamy camels and apricots; five lipglass shades in the sheerest of nudes to the deepest aubergine; five universally flattering lipsticks and two limited-edition Extra Dimension Skinfish compacts in shimmery pewter and burnished bronze. Whether you’re wearing the shades on their own, mixing and matching, applying them with one sheer swipe or building them to create more emphatically eye-catching looks, this collection delivers lightweight textures, deep pigment payoff and limitless potential for play. It's a modern take on a timeless idea. Go be yourself.

Level up your skincare

Beauty enthusiasts rejoice, Ole Henriksken, the renowned Danish skincare brand is coming to Dubai. Since 1975, these simple, joyful yet powerful products have been improving complexions around the world. We all deserve the skin we love, and the Ole, Truth, Transform, Transform Plus and Balance collections empower you to find what’s best for your skin and to make your ‘me-time’ full of warmth, comfort and wellbeing. Available exclusively at Sephora, Sephora.ae and Sephora.sa

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Wild about honey

Let your eyes have all the pampering they need. They are the windows to our soul, after all. The eye area is also the first to be affected by wrinkles, crow’s feet and frown lines. Abeille Royale Crème Yeux Eye Cream from Guerlain, is packed with royal honey and ensures no wrinkles escape from its power. The result: Skin around your eyes is intensely smoothed, plumped and redensified, while dark circles and under-eye bags are softened to leave eyes looking at least three years younger.

Flutter away

With fashion week season in full swing and events, meetings and shows lined up, if there is one covetable beauty staple we can absolutely rely on it has to be the L‘Obscur Mascara from Gucci. The pastel pink tube and gold metal lid look pretty in your handbag, while the brush ensures fanned out and boldly volumised lashes in just one sweep. Dhs150

Sleeping beauty

Hydrate as you go

As the summer season approaches, remember that travel is not always kind to your skin. La Mer's Crème de la Crème Arrive Hydrated travel kit nourishes skin with the brand's signture, supercharged seaweed broth, leaving you with glowing skin.

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IMAGES: SUPPLIED

Overnight is the perfect time to rehydrate your skin. Ideal for nurturing skin as you sleep, is the vitamin-rich gel-cream Sublime Replenishing Night Masque from Aesop. Apply a thick layer at bedtime, and allow it to absorb. Botanical ingredients help skin to replenish and leaves it feeling soft, supple and extremely nourished when you wake up. Dhs440


Fragrances to douse in…

Skin savvy

Givenchy Laboratories created Blanc Divin, a skincare line that works simultaneously on the skin to diminish brown spots, reducing dull complexions and aiding the skin’s elasticity. Now, the Blanc Divin line welcomes two new products to keep your skin velvety soft and your complexion flawless all day long: Brightening Fresh Moisture Mask Dhs330 – to moisturise and revitalise your skin, and Brightening Mattifying Loose Powder Dhs300 – for that flawless, radiant and luminous finish.

DYNAMIC DUO An unprecedented collaboration between two master perfumers – Bvlgari Le Gemme Erea (signed by Alberto Morillas) and Bvlgari le Gemme Kobraa (signed by Jacques Cavallier) – to translate the bold beauty of Green Agate and Snake Jasper into magnificient new fragrances. Linked by their green iridescent colour, these are extra-special and a must for every fashionista’s beauty cupboard. Dhs1,100 each

Forever Skin

"With its stretch texture, superb shades and weightless sensation that doesn’t compromise on its long-lasting coverage, Dior Forever Skin Correct is the newgeneration concealer from Dior you will want to use right away. Everything about this product is more generous: the range of shades, the bottle, the applicator, and the many different ways you can use it," says Dior Beauty’s make up guru, Peter Philips. Flawless skin is finally ours. Dhs176

MAGIC IN A BOTTLE Who can resist a Narciso Rodriguez fragrance? We can’t and are pretty sure you can’t either. Especially this new f loral rendition to his iconic For Her fragrance – the Fleur Musc EDT Florale. A rare weave of roses, pink peppercorns, peach pulp, soft amber and luminous woods, it embodies true elegance and timeless luxury. Dhs378 for 50ml and Dhs541 for 100ml

THE ONLY ONE If you are looking for a floral concoction that is irresistibly enchanting, than look no further than The Only One Eau de Parfum Intense from Dolce&Gabanna. Notes of dazzling gold orange blossoms mingle with the heady sensuality of jasmine absolute, creamy coconut essence and hyponotising black vanilla, making it one of the most endearing fragrances. Dhs644

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Moroccan style star Oumayma El Boumeshouli shares her beauty must-haves to get her glowing complexion

AM to PM Beauty WO R D S : D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R What is your morning beauty routine like? The first thing that I do when I wake up is washing off the argan oil I put on before going to sleep. Then I drink a glass of hot water with lemon and I start with my make up routine.

How does your beauty routine differ form when you’re home to when you’re travelling? When I’m home, I feel like I take more time but when I travel, I want to do everything as soon as possible. I do have a couple of beauty products

I only bring with me when I travel. When I’m home I like to try new things, but when I’m travelling, I always use the same routine over and over again.

which includes; the Crème, The Renewal Oil for an instant glow, The Cleansing Foam, The Tonic and The Lifting and Firming Mask.

Do you have any daytime touch ups or additions if you’re heading to an event?

Chanel Beauty. I fell in love with the brand when I saw the beautiful packaging in my aunts bathroom when I was young. Charlotte Tilbury has amazing skincare and good essentials for a glowy nude look.

I feel like sometimes I have dark circles, so I try to add concealer during the day and some bronzer.

Do you have any in-flight beauty routines? So I always travel with the La Mer travel kit

Which brands are you a fan of and why?

If you had to choose three beauty products, what would they be and why? Les Beiges Eau de Teint from Chanel Beauty. Super refreshing and gives you a natural glow. It's like applying water to your face. I apply Oskia Smart-Nutrient Beauty Capsules every morning and evening after washing. It's also an anti-stress serum. Coconut oil, especially after sunbathing, is honestly the best thing I can do to my body.

Do you have a signature scent? Yes absolutely, I've always loved the iconic Chanel N˚5. This fragrance will always be my favourite.

What does your pre-bedtime nightly ritual look like? I first take my makeup off with Givenchy beauty tonic. Then I apply the Oskia Smart-Nutrient Beauty capsules and a bit of Argan oil on my face.

What has been the best makeup tip you’ve picked up along the way? I think using your lipstick as an eyeshadow. It’s a very simple trick, but I’ve been so obsessed with it. Every time when I apply lipstick, I try to put also the same lipstick on my eyelids

And skincare? For sure African black soap. I’m Moroccan and we visit the traditional hammam a lot and we use African black soap. I try to apply it on my face at least once a week and scrub it off.

Who is your ultimate beauty muse? To be honest, I don’t really have a beauty muse. If I had to choose someone, it would be Christine Centenera because she is my fashion muse.

Who do you love stalking on Instagram? I have a guilty pleasure for watching make up tutorials, so when I’m bored I go to Huda Beauty’s page to watch all the tutorial videos she reposts.

What’s on your beauty wish list? A brow lift!

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IMAGES: PHOTOGRAPHY BY ABDULLA ELMAZ, FASHION DIRECTION BY CARMEL HARRISON, FASHION EDITOR BY NATALIE WESTERNOFF, PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: XANA HARMSEN; HAIR AND MAKE-UP: JORDAN ROBERTSON, ATHINA DOUTIS, YUREMA VILLA, ALL MMG ARTISTS; LOCATION: HOT & COLD STUDIOS, FROM EMIRATES WOMAN MAY 2019 ISSUE


BEAUTY TREND REPORT

Dior

The most coveted trends from SS20 runways that have captured our minds, and our makeup bags

Schoolgirl, Wednesday Adams style braids were seen everywhere, from Simone Rocha to Gabriela Hearst. Designers are clearly encouraging us to give up the hot styling tools in favour of low-maintenance woven hair. Most options offered carefree flyaways and a plaitedto-the-very-end youthfulness, while some inspired us to weave something into the braids – like silk scarves, jewels and raffia - to make them stand out even more. SEEN AT: Alexander McQueen, Max Mara and Dior

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Max Mara

Childhood braids

Alexander McQueen

Simone Rocha

WO R D S : D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

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Versace

Versace

Colour for Spring/Summer is not surprising, but this season the designers decided to go big on primary shades and neon hues, adorning eyelids on top and bottom. Optimistic shades were lined or dabbed round the eyes, and not in a precise way, reemphasising the freedom that bright makeup represents. SEEN AT: Versace, Oscar de la Renta, Salvatore Ferragamo Oscar de la Renta

Salvatore Ferragamo

Neon lights

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Marni

Alexander McQueen Missoni

Flowers came into full force on the runway, with many designer making them the focal point across a series of creative makeup looks. We won’t be rushing to apply petals to our eyelids as seen at Giambattista Valli, but what we can take away is bohemian bridal inspiration, especially for the hair. At Missoni, the updos featured sprigs of garden flowers that were tucked into deconstructed knots. SEEN AT: Marni, Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, Missoni and Giambattista Valli

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Marni

Flower fancy


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Fendi

Fendi Valentino

Off-White

Hero product: Shadow Extreme in TFX1 Silver Dhs125 Tom Ford Beauty

Let it shine Adding a bit of twinkle to the eyes shouldn’t just be reserved for festive parties. Makeup artists like Pat McGrath are studding the lids with layers of gold for a Grecian goddess vibes, while over at Fendi the shimmer gently cascades down the cheeks for that undone festival feel. For drama that might only work for special occasions, look to silver glitter and loose octagon sequins at Off-White as well as the jaw-dropping face jewellery designs at Schiaparelli. SEEN AT: Off-White, Valentino and Fendi

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Max Mara

Jil Sander

Rick Owens Hero product: Lipstick in Impulse Dhs125 Nars on ounass.com

Moody lips Move aside coral shades and nude hues, and make way for the darkest of berries shades. If you want to go to the darkest spectrum, look to Max Mara where lips were kept matte while the edges were precise and sharp. To keep it looking modern, focus on a fresh and minimal complexion, and if you want to add a bit of shine, sweep some lip gloss across for that mirrored glaze finish. SEEN AT: Jil Sander, Rick Owens, Marques Almeida

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JW Anderson

Khaite Roland Mouret

‘No make up make up’ continues to rule supreme when it comes to our dream complexion. The barely-there result with a dewy finish is on everyone’s list, perhaps that’s why some many makeup brands are now implementing skincare elements into their products. Make primer your new best friend as it aids in keeping the complexion even, and invest in a good finishing powder that acts as a filter. This effortless fresh-faced look is perfect for the undone summer months. SEEN AT: JW Anderson, Burberry and Khaite and Roland Mouret

IMAGES: GETTY AND SUPPLIED

Burberry

JW Anderson

Bare beauty

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HEALTHY It’s not about willpower

HABITS

IMAGE: PIP EDWARDS WEARING P. E NATION

WO R D S : TA R A PA R K E R P O P E E D I T E D BY: A M Y S ES S I O N S


W

e’re all creatures of habit. We tend to wake up at the same time each day, brush our teeth, have morning coffee and commute to work, following the same patterns every day. So why is it so hard to form new healthy habits? Behavioural scientists who study habit formation say that many of us try to create healthy habits the wrong way. We make bold resolutions to start exercising or lose weight, for example, without taking the steps needed to set ourselves up for success. Here are some tips, backed by research, for forming new healthy habits.

STACK YOUR HABITS: The best way to form a new habit is to tie it to an existing habit, experts say. Look for patterns in your day and think about how you can use existing habits to create new, positive ones. For many of us, our morning routine is our strongest routine, so that’s a great place to stack on a new habit. A morning cup of a coffee, for example, can create a great opportunity to start a new one-minute meditation practice. Or, while you are brushing your teeth, you might choose to do squats or stand on one foot to practice balance. Many of us fall into end-of-the-day patterns as well. Do you tend to flop on the couch after work and turn on the TV? That might be a good time to do a single daily yoga pose.

START SMALL:

© 2020 THE NEW YORK TIMES COMPANY

B.J. Fogg, a Stanford University researcher and author of the book “Tiny Habits,” notes that big behaviour changes require a high level of motivation that often can’t be sustained. He suggests starting with tiny habits to make the new habit as easy as possible in the beginning. Taking a daily short walk, for example, could be the beginning of an exercise habit. Or, putting an apple in your bag every day could lead to better eating habits. In his own life, Fogg wanted to start a daily pushup habit. He started with just two pushups a day and, to make the habit stick, tied his pushups to a daily habit: going to the bathroom. He began by, after a bathroom trip, dropping and doing two pushups. Now he has a habit of 40 to 80 pushups a day.

DO IT EVERY DAY: British researchers studied how people form habits in the real world, asking participants to choose a simple habit they wanted to form, like drinking water at lunch or taking a walk before dinner. The study, published in the European Journal of Social Psychology showed that the amount of time it took for the task to become automatic — a habit — ranged from 18 to 254 days. The median time was 66 days! The lesson is that habits take a long time to

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create, but they form faster when we do them more often, so start with something reasonable that is really easy to do. You are more likely to stick with an exercise habit if you do some small exercise — jumping jacks, a yoga pose, a brisk walk — every day, rather than trying to get to the gym three days a week. Once the daily exercise becomes a habit, you can explore new, more intense forms of exercise.

MAKE IT EASY: Habit researchers know we are more likely to form new habits when we clear away the obstacles that stand in our way. Packing your gym back and leaving it by the door is one example of this. Wendy Wood, a research psychologist at the University of Southern California, says she began sleeping in her running clothes to make it easier to roll out of bed in the morning, slip on her running shoes and run. Choosing an exercise that doesn’t require you to leave the house — like sit-ups or jumping jacks — is another way to form an easy exercise habit. Wood calls the forces that get in the way of good habits “friction.” In one study, researchers changed the timing of elevator doors so that workers had to wait nearly half a minute for the doors to close. (Normally the doors closed after 10 seconds.) It was just enough of a delay that it convinced many people that taking the stairs was easier than waiting for the elevator. “It shows how sensitive we are to small friction in our environment,” said Wood. “Just slowing down the elevator got people to take the stairs, and they stuck with it even after the elevator went back to normal timing.” Wood notes that marketers are already experts in reducing friction, inducing us to spend more, for example, or order more food. That’s why Amazon has a “one-click” button and fast-food companies make it easy to supersize. “We’re just very influenced by how things are organised around us in ways that marketers understand and are exploiting, but people don’t exploit and understand in their own lives,” she said.

REWARD YOURSELF: Rewards are an important part of habit formation. When we brush our teeth, the reward is immediate — a minty fresh mouth. But some rewards — like weight loss or the physical changes from exercise — take longer to show up. That’s why it helps to build in some immediate rewards to help you form the habit. Listening to books on tape while running, for example, or watching a favourite cooking show on the treadmill can help reinforce an exercise habit. Or plan an exercise date so the reward is time with a friend.

WelleCo The Super Elixir Dhs400

H E A LT H


H E A LT H

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FIT

AND

FABULOUS

Looking for the ultimate wellness membership? Our edit is packed with some of the best fitness studios in Dubai that will make you want to dress up for a workout WORDS:

THE FAIRMONT, PALM JUMEIRAH The Fairmont offers more than just one way to keep fit. At their gym you can expect a range of the very latest in Technogym equipment, male and female private changing rooms, sauna and steam rooms. Additionally, the resort’s outdoor pool and private beach are accessible for aquatic fitness and outdoor sports. The memberships (starting at Dhs15,000 for a year) include free access to core classes, use of facilities, a voucher for five personal training sessions, two 90-minute hot stone fitness massage sessions, five beach passes to enjoy with a friend, one complimentary Friday brunch for four people

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at Fairmont The Palm, 10 percent discount on spa treatments, 20 percent discount on food in selected outlets, 20 percent discount on personal training sessions as well as one night stay at Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, Abu Dhabi for two adults, bed and breakfast.

ONE & ONLY THE PALM One&Only The Palm doesn't offer memberships, but it has a 120m² Fitness Centre featuring cutting-edge Technogym equipment, including the latest Kinesis training stations for those wanting to experience a new frontier in fitness. You can book in for bespoke

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workouts and tailored programmes with expert personal trainers and make the full use of an 18-metre, three-lane outdoor temperature-controlled pool that also has a secluded relaxation area only accessible to adults. Wrap up your workout with a heat experience suite that includes a sauna and steam room.

THE J CLUB, JUMEIRAH BEACH HOTEL J Club in the recently renovated Jumeirah Beach Hotel focuses on physical and mental wellness. Offering a full range of sports and leisure facilities with the highest level of coaching and training, it will be the ultimate destination for a 360 approach to a healthier lifestyle. Membership packages start from Dhs2,750 per month and include group fitness classes at its three dedicated multi-function studios (from Les Mills boxing and spin, to specialist personal training and diagnostic services) and access to changing facilities, with steam rooms, saunas, ice fountains and experience showers. You will also receive exclusive and unlimited access to the extensive leisure facilities of the Jumeirah Beach Hotel, including beach and pools, free watersports and family access to the kids club. You can also enjoy discounted rates at Talise Spa and access to wholesome restaurant FIKA created by renowned Chef Izu Ani.

BVLGARI HOTEL & RESORTS, DUBAI Located on the ground floor of The Bvlgari Resort & Residences Dubai, the Bvlgari Spa is 1700 square metres of luxurious wellbeing. It features a variety of relaxing amenities including indoor pool, hammam and 24-hour fitness centre with a Workshop fitness studio. They don't offer memberships, however they run several classes as well as personal training sessions via the Workshop programme. Clients begin with a movement and nutrition genetic analysis

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followed by functional movement screening (Dhs500 for 60 minutes) to determine the best approach for you. Choose from Personal Training with Senior Performance Specialist at Dhs500 for 60 minutes, boxing at Dhs630 for 60 minutes, dynamic pilates at Dhs630 for 60 minutes among others.

Clockwise from bottom left: Bvlgari, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Four Seasons, Mandarin Oriental

Previous page: One&Only The Palm

FOUR SEASONS RESORT DUBAI AT JUMEIRAH BEACH

MANDARIN ORIENTAL JUMEIRA The hotel has two tiers of their annual lifestyle membership programs for you to choose from. The Silver Fan Membership has access to group classes at the stateof-the-art Fitness Centre, as well as a team of certified personal trainers. Gold Fan Members will have a few more perks including pool, beach and the spa’s heat and water facilities, and exclusive access to the sophisticated Club Lounge. Packages start at Dhs12,500 for a year.

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

The hotel offers a range of memberships; three months at Dhs4,200, six months at Dhs8,400, and Dhs15,200 for the year and even an annual package for couples for Dhs25,600. With them you get access to their gorgeous fitness centre that has some of the best post-exercise treats we've tried (your hard work should be rewarded), indoor pool area and tennis court, as well as steam room and sauna. It also includes complimentary scheduled group classes, one complimentary fitness consultation with BMI assessment, one personal training session with a Four Seasons personal trainer, 20 percent discount on all spa treatments and personal training sessions at Four Seasons Resort Dubai, Four Seasons DIFC and Four Seasons Abu Dhabi, 20 percent discount on restaurant and bar reservations across all of the three properties, 20 percent discount on female hair salon services, and 10 percent discount on tennis sessions.

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WORDS: AMY SESSIONS

T H E

T R A V E L

G U I D E : F A S H I O N M O N T H Whether you’re front row at fashion week or simply soaking up the ambience, we’ve complied the places you’ll need to see and be seen at 172 emirateswoman.com

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The packing essential: Gold-tone necklace 14,900 Dhs, Bottega Veneta at net-a-porter.com

NEW YORK The focus is on pure, simple ingredients brought together in imaginative ways. cafeclovernyc.com

Shop:

Reformation Suitably sustainable, Reformation is a cult brand the globe over, but take the opportunity to visit one of their stores if you’re in New York so you can find the perfect fit in person. thereformation.com

Stay:

The Arlo Nomad Hotel

Clockwise from left: The Arlo Nomad Hotel, Café Clover, The Arlo Nomad Hotel, The Real Real

Arlo Nomad is a boutique award-winning hotel in New York City, North of Madison Square Park and just a short walk from the Empire State Building. There are plenty of public spaces to work if you’re on business or simply to hang out, including a cosy, warmly-lit, library complete with laid-back lounge chairs and couches. The rooftop bar (open from spring-fall) on the 31st floor is unmissable with views of East River and the Empire State building. arlohotels.com

The Real Real The pre-loved site’s offline offering is the ideal place to browse past-season must-haves and hard to find collectibles from old Celine to a Hermès Kelly. They also offer complimentary valuations for luxury items at their Upper East, Madison Avenue side location. Look out for timely pop-up events as well while you’re in town. therealreal.com

Do:

Metropolitan Museum

Eat:

Il Buco This cosy restaurant on Bond Street is all you might expect and more from the perfect Italian. It’s frequented by editors, buyers and more, making it ideal for watching the world go by while you sample the antipasti. ilbuco.com

Café Clover Seasonal, healthful, and local, this is an oasis nestled in a tree-lined street in the West Village.

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No trip to the big apple is complete without a visit to the Met. Past exhibits have included the sell-out ‘Savage Beauty’ a homage to the late Alexander McQueen’s genius and mastery in fashion. metmuseum.org

High Line This disused rail-road is a real hidden gem ,having been transformed into a public park stretching all around the side of Chelsea. Small cafés and boutiques populate the length, making it the perfect weekend hangout.

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The packing essential: Handbag Dhs2,700 Aigner

Eat:

Cecconi’s This classic Italian eatery is the ideal brunch spot if you’ve just landed in London or are looking to catch up over coffee. Order the poached eggs and avocado on toast and relax into the jewel-tones velvet sofas. cecconis.co.uk

The Ivy Chelsea Garden From the log fire in the conservatory at the back to the white linen table cloths and heavy silverware, this is the perfect destination for a chic lunch or wind-down dinner. Set in the heart of Chelsea, you’ll find yourself marvelling at the exterior which is adorned with anything from flowers to baubles depending on the time of the year. theivychelseagarden.com

Shop:

Liberty London

Clockwise from left:

Stay:

Chiltern Firehouse Located in the heart of Marylebone district, Chiltern is known for having been one of the first firehouses of London. The hotel, with 26 rooms and suites, was entirely restored by famous hotelier André Balazs, and joins his collection of luxury hotels alongside Château Marmont in Los Angeles and the Mercer Hotel in New York. The interior is as astounding as the food - book this once and you’ll return. chiltonfirehouse.com

Liberty London, Spitalfields Market, National Portrait Gallery, Chiltern Firehouse

This iconic haven of fashion, beauty, homewares and more is famed for its fabrics. Each year, hand painted florals are turned into rolls of fine fabrics. Head to the haberdashery department for a thrill or while away hours on the ground floor amongst the most luxe beauty products from the well-known to undiscovered brands. libertylondon.com

Do:

LONDON

National Portrait Gallery The Gallery, founded in 1856, is a delight to while away an afternoon in whether you’re dropping in for an hour or spending the entire day admiring the extensive collection of portraits from around the globe. This is one place you’ll revisit time and time again. With its aim to promote the medium of portraiture including of those in British history and culture making in impact, a trip here is as informative as it is visual. npg.org.uk

Spitalfields Market Spitalfields Market has become a one stop for everything from fashion to food, art and music since its renovation, with independent traders offering cutting-edge fashion, unique interiors, original artworks and artisan food. This is a great alternative if you’re looking for something different to King’s Road at the weekend. https://www.spitalfields.co.uk

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The packing essential: Hexagon-frame gold-tone sunglasses Dhs1,260 Bottega Veneta

the location it now stands. Ideal for any special dining occasion, you’ll be enamored by the al fresco dining in the beautiful courtyard. ilsalumaiodimontenapoleone.it

Da Giacomo When you want to eat fish, with an exceptionally well executed menu and a touch of unmistakable Milanese charm, this is your destination. Situated at the core of Via Sottocorno’s gastronomic district, this haven for the taste buds combines old-school style a sophisticated ambience. We’re huge fans. giacomoristorante.com

MILAN Stay:

Bvlgari

Clockwise from left: Da Giacomo, Bvlgari, Teatro Alla Scala

On a private street in downtown Milan, between Via Montenapoleone, Via della Spiga, La Scala and Accademia di Brera, in a tastefully renovated 18th century Milanese palazzo, the Bvlgari Hotel Milano is a fully-fledged five-star experience situated in the heart of the cultural and commercial area of Milan. Exceptional service ensures you have a little peace amongst the pace of fashion month. bulgarihotels.com

The Yard Milano This quirky boutique hotel exudes cool. It brims with character, with dark cosy interiors packed with antiques, sporting memorabilia and vintage pieces of furniture, from trunks to riding boots. theyardplaces.com

Eat:

Shop:

10 Corso Como Famed Fashion Editor Carla Sozzani first opened the doors of this now iconic store in 1991, when she pioneered the idea of the all-encompassing concept store: one which might sell shoes and dresses, but also magazines, books and more. 10corsocomo.com

Cavalli e Nastri If you’re a vintage lover, this store is an essential stop while you’re in the city for Chanel jackets, vintage accessories and one-of-a-kind finds. Inspiring. cavallienastri.com

Do:

Teatro Alla Scala This world-renown opera house, just steps from Piazza del Duomo, was founded in 1778 under the auspices of Empress Maria Theresa of Austria. A peak inside the main hall is breathtaking, but nothing compares to the full experience, something you won’t want to miss while you’re here. tteatroallascala.org

Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone

Gelateria Marghera

Since 1957 Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone has made history, moving from one corner of the fashion district to another, and finally winning a place of honour among high fashion brands in

On a busy day, up to 3000 customers go through the door at Milan's Gelateria Marghera, probably the city's most famous ice cream shop. gelateriamarghera.com

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The packing essential: Crepe de chine midi dress Dhs6,900 Alessandra Rich

PARIS

Parisian landmark was reborn as the must stay for royalty, fashion or other VIPs. rosewoodhotels.com

Eat:

L’Avenue Half the fun of eating at this famous eatery is watching the people watching. Sit outside on the corner of Avenue Montaigne, among a regular clientele of fashion designers, stylish locals and you’ll feel right at home. Order the tuna tartare, a mound of burrata, and a mountain of pommes allumette with a glass of the sommelier’s recommendation and you’re set. avenue-restaurant.com

Girafe Paris An Art Deco design, a modern seafood menu and an impressive terrace – dining at Girafe is a blend of simplicity and luxury. Sit at the large marble bar and let one of the velvet armchairs envelop you while you recline and dissect the day. girafeparis.com

Shop: Nuun

Saudi fine jewellery designer HRH Nourah Al Faisal has created a haven located on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré for anyone who is a magpie at heart. Make this top of your list if you’re in the market for jewellery that is as unique as it is modern, while still feeling timeless. nuunjewels.com/en

French pharmacies If you’re in Paris, the one place you have to visit is the local pharmacy. Take the advice on hand and you’ll come home armed with reasonably priced wonder products which leave your skin looking radiant. Look out for a brand called Hormeta- we buy everything when we see it.

Stay:

Do:

Set only a few hundred yards from the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Elysées, Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris captures in its design and ethos much of what is unique about the French capital itself. Originally opened in 1928, the facade retains its authentic Art Deco charms. leroyalmonceau.com/

A must visit. Hotel Costes Paris is unlike anything else. Hotel, restaurant, bar, perfumes and music on the Rue Saint-Honoré. Powdery velvets, subtly dim lighting and the unmistakable signature scent makes this a haven of opulence that needs to be enjoyed. hotelcostes.com

Hôtel de Crillon

Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen

Fronted by the majestic architecture of AngeJacques Gabriel, Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel overlooks the spectacular Place de la Concorde. The historic hotel was designed by the architect of the Palace of Versailles. In 2017, and after a Dhs750 million renovation, the

Welcoming 3,000 traders and up to 180,000 visitors each weekend, the Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen is often referenced as the largest flea market in the world. If you’re looking for a wide offering while you’re in search of a hidden vintage find, this is your place.

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Hotel Costes

Clockwise from left: Hôtel de Crillon, Girafe Paris, Nuun

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IMAGES: SUPPLIED

Le Royal Monceau


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The Jet Set A slice of cool-girl wanderlust

SONVEA FUSHI, MALDIVES

@NIRVANA.ABDUL

Saudi Arabian fashion influencer Abdulrahman Ali Alyousaf has one of the most enviable visual travel diaries on Instagram. From Beirut to Maldives, the mother of three loves exploring the unique parts of the world in style.

C O M P I L E D BY: D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

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If you can be anywhere in the world right now, where would it be? Cuba. I’ve always been fascinated by its vibe, architecture of their colourful buildings and of course, most importantly, their culture What are your packing essentials? Sneakers, my headphones, one to two white shirts, lip balm and face moisturisers. Name two places on your travel bucket list and why. Spain, as I really want to see how Arab contributed to the beauty of this place. Morocco because my husband was lucky enough to visit it about 12 times and

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didn’t stop talking about the beauty and magical vibe of this country. We love your images! What do you think makes a great travel photo? I think showing more of the vibe rather than just perfect photos, at least for me. I enjoy watching the real mood of a moment. Which was the last place you visited that really inspired you? The last place was the Maldives. We stayed in a luxurious eco-friendly hotel which I’m still thinking how could they achieve this level of sustainability with luxury. It was a barefoot, breathtaking trip.


5 REASONS TO VISIT

The Marylebone Hotel, London

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London doesn’t get more charming than a weekend getaway at an uber stylish hotel that offers a cosmopolitan buzz in a relaxing setting WO R D S B Y: D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

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47 Welbeck Street, London, W1G 8DN, England; +44 20 7486 6600; doylecollection.com

01. Location, location, location It might be just a short stroll away from Oxford Street, but we suggest exploring the Marylebone high street that has a mix of contemporary brands and independent boutiques like Daunt Books. For a culture kick, Wallace Collection in Manchester Square is close by, but if it’s shopping you’re after, then we recommend booking a personal shopper, which can be arranged with Selfridges.

02. Room with a view With a total of 250 rooms across six categories, there is one boudoir in particular that stands out and it’s the Marylebone Suite. Its key attribute is the enormous cedar-clad terrace with retractable roof, special outdoor television and fireplace. Special suite amenities include VIP airport pick-ups, a dedicated ‘cocktail butler’ and unpacking / packing service.

03. Active space For those who want to keep up with their fitness routine or unwind in the 18m indoor swimming pool will love the Third Space Spa and Gym . The spa offers treatments by Elemis, including massages and facials, as well as express treatments for those on-thego. There’s a gym, which hosts an array of fitness classes which range from cardio, combat and cycling, to dance, Pilates and yoga.

LIFE

04. Bathroom gem If you’re anything like us, then one of the first things you like to do upon check-in is to see which fabulous brand is supplying the bathroom amenities. The hotel has opted for awardwinning, apothecary Malin + Goetz, a New York-based brand which champions a simplified two-step cleansing and moisturising process to maintain the skin's pH balance.

05. Night cap During the evening, the atmospheric bar and restaurant is the place to be seen. The 108 Brasserie has launched their very own 108 Gin, which is distilled in front of guests in the bar, in their copper still affectionately known as ‘Isabella’. You also have an option to dine and people-watch from the comfort of a heated outdoor seating area on Marylebone Lane.

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PALACE ON THE LEFT BANK WO R D S : D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

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Looking for a new kind of charm that offers contemporary relaxation, diverse dining options and an indulgent spa? Hotel Lutetia is your Parisian home away from home T R AV E L

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ollowing an ambitious fouryear period of restoration and refurbishment that returned the property to its rightful place, Hotel Lutetia is the only Palace hotel on the Left Bank – one of 12 in the whole of Paris. Located in the St.Germain-desPres area, the landmark building dates back to 1910 and to this day retains its classic character while offering modern comforts across 184 rooms and 50 Suites. There is also a marble-clad 700 square-metre spa with an indoor pool, a couple of exceptional bars, two outdoor patios and the iconic Brasserie Lutetia.

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STAY Expect pared-down elegance in the rooms with plenty of natural light and Art Deco furnishings. Rooms face either Boulevard Raspail and Rue de Sèvres or the interior courtyard and glass roof of the St Germain restaurant. Even though you’re staying in a historic building, the lights and curtains are all controlled by wall-mounted tablets, however they can be slightly tempremental, but you get the hang of it. The marble bathrooms are spacious and inviting, decked out with Hermès products. For an unforgettable stay, we suggest booking into one of the Signature suites designed by renowned architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte. Each of the Signature suites has a different

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This page: The Eiffel Suite and Akasha Holistic Wellbeing space


DINE Breakfast offers a generous buffet with some of the most delicious pastries you’ll try this side of Paris. Served in the L'Orangerie, the menu is curated by Executive Chef Benjamin Brial who has a personal network of farmers, fishermen and cooks which means the buffet changes often. Make sure to try their oeufs Bénédict. Those who love their seafood simply can’t miss a lunch or dinner at the three-Michelin-star Lutetia Brasserie that has one of the most fabulous sea bars in the city. Inspired by the Grand Central Oyster Bar in New York and Japanese Kaiseki counters, where diners are seated so close

WHAT TO PACK

to the chef that speedy service and fresh food is guaranteed. Otherwise grab a table anywhere across the two-level dining room, or the outdoor terraces, and prepare to enjoy some of the best seafood in town, masterfully created by renowned chef Gérald Passedat. Located in the heart of the hotel is a salon style dining space Le SaintGermain. Set under a colourful glass ceiling, it is a perfect place to enjoy sweet treats, especially afternoon tea. For unique cocktails, there’s nowhere more chic than Bar Josephine.

UNWIND The subterranean Akasha Holistic Wellbeing space can be accessed via a separate lift and is surprisingly spacious. There is beautifully lit pool, whirlpool tub, sauna and hammam to enjoy with plenty of treatments on offer. There is also a 100 sqm fitness room benefiting from natural light with state-of-the-art equipment and personalised training.

EXPLORE Hotel Lutetia is located a two-minute walk from Le Bon Marché, five to the iconic brasserie Les Deux Magots. It’s definitely worth making the 25-minute walk to Saint-Germain where you can step into Diptyque’s first ever store, stroll through the stunning Le Jardin du Luxembourg and enjoy an ice-cream at Berthillon.

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character, but all evoke a residential style that is both modern and grand. The Eiffel Suite, as the name suggests offers views of the city’s iconic tower from the 6th floor, but it's the Haute Couture Suite with Terrace which really stood out the most. Styled to be both romantic and urban, the suite is light and airy throughout, with silver and gold accents alongside unique items from Parisian couture houses. With a 20 square-metre terrace that seats four guests, separate living and dining areas and a guest WC, the suite is as ideal for trying on all your purchases.

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From top: Bague My Twin Multiforme ring Dhs6,159 Messika; Petite Gabrielle bag Dhs15,450 Moynat; Kenzie faux shearling PVC coat Dhs2,095 Stand Studio on modaoperandi.com; Carnal Flower hair mist Dhs620 Frederic Malle; Boots Dhs5,036 Saint Laurent at net-a-porter.com

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I N T RO D U C I N G M A U RO C O L A G R E C O As chef-patron of three Michelin star restaurant Mirazur – named the world’s best restaurant in 2019 – Chef Mauro Colagreco is one of France’s most celebrated latest talents. Now he brings his inimitable gastronomic vision to One&Only Royal Mirage, introducing new culinary concepts to Celebrities, our fine dining experience and The Beach Bar & Grill, Dubai’s favourite seafront setting. For reservations please call +971 4 399 9999 or email restaurants@oneandonlyroyalmirage.ae

oneandonlyroyalmirage.com +971 4 399 9999


LUXE EATS

The coolest places to dine LIFE – BRUNCHES

WORDS: CECILIA DSOUZA


INDOCHINE WHERE: Indochine, DIFC CUISINE: French-Vietnamese inspired menu. WHAT: Straight out from New

York, this is one of the coolest places to be on a Thursday and Friday night. The delicious food, the drinks, the tropical décor, the iconic Martinique wallpaper

SHANGHAI ME

and Ruler of Dubai, was one of the first people to check it out, closely followed by his son HH Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed Al Maktoum, Crown Prince of Dubai. R&B icons Akon, Trey Songz and Tyga also stopped by ahead of their Formula 1 performances. DETAILS: Call (04) 564 0505 or email: reservation@ shanghaime-restaurant.com

WHERE, Shanghai Me, DIFC CUISINE: Inspired by the culinary traditions of East Asia WHAT: Its

infectious vibe is just right for those post-work drinks or an utterly relaxed weekend meal. Its lush green terrace, classic interiors accented with velvet, hand painted wallpaper and glossy wood panelling add to its chic look. The weather of this time of the year is a plus, plus, plus. MUST TRY: Cantonese roast duck, yellowtail with sliced black truffle, alongside signature dim sum, bao buns, sushi and sashimi. CELEBRITY TOUCH: HH Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, UAE Vice President

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all combine to make it an extremely memorable experience. CELEBRITY TOUCH: Kaia Gerber and Kendall Jenner are known regulars at the New York venue. MUST TRY: Vietnamese ravioli and lamb char siu. DETAILS: Call (04) 208 9333 or email reservations@indochinedxb.com

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SCALINI WHERE: Scalini Dubai, Four Seasons

Resort Jumeirah CUISINE: Italian with a Dubai twist. WHAT: Established in London in 1988,

Scalini played an influential role in the rise of Italian trattorias throughout the UK, and is renowned for the quintessential Italian cuisine and charming ambiance. Remarkable flavours, fresh ingredients sourced directly from Italy and Chef Roberto’s magic are the secret ingredients at play here. MUST TRY: Begin with the calamari alla Luciana, feast on the petto di pollo alla zarina as your main and finish off with the creamy and utterly sinful semifreddo al pistacchio. CELEBRITY TOUCH: Keep your eye out as you might just spot a star or two. Scalini in the UK has been frequented by the likes of Kate Moss, Johnny Depp, Jude Law and Simon Cowell. DETAILS: Call (04) 349 0068

IL RISTORANTE – N I KO R O M I TO WHERE: Niko Romito, Bvlgari Resort

Dubai CUISINE: Italian. WHAT: If you are a food connoisseur you will definitely have heard of chef Niko Romito. He is a proud holder of three Michelin stars for his Reale restaurant in Abruzzo Italy and is now curating the cuisine at the Bvlgari Hotels & Resorts in Beijing, Dubai, Shanghai and Milan. Phew. Everything from the time you enter to the time you reluctantly leave is elegant and firstclass. MUST TRY: All of the authentic and very tasty pasta dishes most of which are to die for. For an excellent finish to the meal, binge on custard-filled bigne with warm chocolate sauce. Heaven. DETAILS: Call (04) 777 5433 or email dine@bulgarihotels.com

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FLAMINGO ROOM WHERE: Flamingo Room by Tashas, Jumeirah Al Naseem CUISINE: Simple and tastefully prepared classics. WHAT: We know a good place to eat when we see it. And when the owner and chef is, Natasha Sideris, one of our award nominees there are absolutely no second thoughts. Along with fuss-free food, amazing

LA PETITE MAISON WHERE: LPM Restaurant and Bar, DIFC CUISINE: French. WHAT: Enjoy a meal with your gang of

purple blooms, will leave you feeling that you are dining on the stylish Côte d'Azur. MUST TRY: Snails with garlic butter, the moreish cheesecake and the tomatini. DETAILS: Call (04) 439 0505 or visit lpmrestaurants.com/dubai

girls on the stunning Rivera style terrace. The charming Belle Époque-inspired shutters, iron gate painted in French Rivera colours, glass lanterns, hanging greenery and Anduze pots with pink and

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thirst quenchers and insta-worthy nooks, well, what’s not to enjoy? MUST TRY: Staples like rib eye, white fish ceviche, peri peri chicken, malva pudding, amira and the utterly gorgeous looking and tasting (this is one for your Instagram) tropical flamingo. DETAILS: Call (04) 244 7278 or email info@flamingoroombytashas.com

AMAZONICO WHERE: Amazonico, DIFC CUISINE: Latin-American. WHAT: Step

into the tropics at this jungle-themed restaurant as you reserve a spot for lunch, dinner or grabbing a drink with friends. From velvet sofas, printed lamp shades and black and white tiling, the interiors are wild yet refined, and this is before we talk about the impressive view from the third-floor terrace. MUST TRY: Kofta de cordero, Brazilian rump steak, patacones mechados and finish off your meal with the succulent suspiro. DETAILS: Call (04) 571 3999 or email: reservations@ amazonico.ae

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VA N I TA S WHERE: Vanitas, Palazzo Versace CUISINE: Italian. WHAT: Symbolic of

the Versace lifestyle and reminiscent of a 16th century Italian palace, Palazzo Versace Dubai with its high ceilings, landscaped gardens and tailor-made Italian furnishings is a Neoclassical masterpiece with subtle traces of Arabian architecture. MUST TRY: The Vino che Passione series

of twelve thematic dining experiences. One a month, the dinners will highlight regions of Italy, its sumptuous food and exemplary drinks. DETAILS: Call (04) 556 8820 or email vanitas@ palazzoversace.ae

FIKA WHERE: Fika, Jumeirah Beach Hotel CUISINE: Delicious Mediterranean fare

inspired by the Swedish philosophy of taking time of the day to enjoy your food in good company and let it nourish your body, mind and soul. WHAT: Chef Izu Ani is unconvinced that to eat well one has to compromise, and hence has crafted a menu that boasts fresh and seasonal ingredients with hoards of nutritional benefits. MUST TRY: As your palate is treated to yummy helpings of burgundy escargot, your eyes can feast on the breathtaking views from the terrace. CELEBRITY TOUCH: HH Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed Al Maktoum, Crown Prince of Dubai is known to be a fan. DETAILS: Call (04) 406 8700

GAIA WHERE: Gaia, DIFC CUISINE: Greek. WHAT: With its muted

colour palatte of greys, painted woods, cream walls, and perfect lighting, Gaia is arguable a real beauty. MUST TRY: The tastiest of bread, Greek salad and the lobster pasta. Keeping room for the millefeuille is a must-do. CELEBRITY TOUCH: Dubai Crown Prince Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum has been among its patrons, DETAILS: Call (04) 347 0003

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PE I TI O I ON N L I LFIEF E– -C C OO MM PE TT IT

A perfect getaway Break away from routine and be submerged in luxury at Anantara Iko Mauritius Resort & Villas

THE PRIZE • A 3-NIGHT STAY FOR TWO IN A DOUBLE DELUXE ROOM ON A HALF-BOARD BASIS • 1 DINING BY DESIGN DINNER • 60 MINUTE SPA TREATMENT FOR TWO • AIRPORT TRANSFERS

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Unwind after a day exploring the ocean and indulge in pampering Anantara Spa treatments. Spoil yourself as you choose from a range of therapeutic treatments including traditional massage therapies, detox treatments and hammam wellness. Of course, no holiday is complete without memorable meals. Anantara Iko Mauritius Resort & Villas features six restaurants. Horizon, the all-day dining restaurant is where you will start your day with a lavish buffet breakfast. Seafood enthusiasts will delight in Sea.Fire.Salt, while the more health-conscious simply cannot go wrong with Bon Manzer where the focus is on natural and organic meals. However, the ultimate indulgence - and included in our exclusive prize package - is Anantara's Dining by Design service, which allows couples their choice of connoisseur menus in an idyllic setting, together with the services of a personal chef and private butler. It doesn't get any grander than this. anantara.com/en/iko-mauritius

FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN, ANSWER THE QUESTION BELOW: WHICH IS THE ALL DAY DINING RESTAURANT AT ANANTARA IKO MAURITIUS RESORT & VILLAS? 1) SEA.FIRE.SALT 2) HORIZON 3) BON MANZER Rules: This competition is open to residents of all GCC countries and valid until 31 March 2020. Entries received after this date will not be accepted. The prize will be awarded to one entry received, at random. The prize is non-transferable, and no cash alternative or extension on voucher is available. The prize voucher has to be used over consecutive nights and cannot be used in conjunction with any other special offers available at the time. Subject to availability, bookings to be made by winner directly with the hotel. Any additional extras not included in the prize will be charged directly to the winner. Flights, airport transfers and travel insurance are not included in the prize. Black-out dates apply. Employees of Motivate Publishing and the company contributing the prize are not eligible. The decision of Motivate Publishing is final, and no correspondence can be entered into. The winner will be announced on our website and notified by email. VISIT EMIRATESWOMAN.COM TO ENTER

WORDS: CECILIA D’SOUZA

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magine living in a home that opens up onto a pristine white beach and turquoise waters. Picture taking the plunge and snorkelling in crystal depths, and following that up with an hour-long massage. That's the kind of life we're going to give you a taste of. Anantara Iko Mauritius Resort & Villas is the vacation paradise situated on the Le Chaland Beach. The 164-room resort is a secluded utopia that appeals to foodies, beach enthusiasts and adrenaline junkies alike.  While you may be tempted to spend all your downtime within Anantara Iko Mauritius Resort’s rooms and suites, featuring stylish bedrooms, bathrooms, and a terrace or balcony overlooking either the lush tropical gardens or the Indian Ocean, we recommend heading to the nearby Blue Bay Marine Park. The government-protected habitat is said to be the island’s premier snorkelling and diving destination. The underwater coral beds boast an array of tropical fish and approximately 40 different species of coral.


Latina Nights at Garden

Hola chicas! Ladies, enjoy unlimited selected beverages and 40% off on food every Wednesday from 7pm until 10pm.

JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE T +971.4.414.3000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com gardendxb


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ST Y L I N G : D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R P H OTO G R A P H Y: M U ST U FA A B I D I

Chanel 19 bag POA

In The Spotlight If you ever needed a fashionable comforter in your wardrobe, the new Chanel 19 bag (named after the year it was made) is the huggable accessory you never knew you needed. The slouchy design comes in an array of shapes and colours and features a chunky chain, classic quilted flap and double-C clasp

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MOST WANTED


A C H I C H I D E AWAY F RO M T H E E V E RY DAY, WHERE MODERN DUBAI MEETS TRADITIONAL A R A B I A N H O S P I TA L I T Y. I T I S , S I M P LY, D U B A I ’ S M O S T I N T I M AT E B E A C H F RO N T R E S O RT. Enter a world of beauty and wellbeing at Guerlain Spa at One&Only The Palm. Open daily from 10am to 9pm

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A MOTIVATE PUBLICATION

MARCH 2020

UAE DHS25 OMAN RO2.70 BAHRAIN BD2.60 KUWAIT KD2.10

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Emirates Woman - March 2020  

Fashion Issue.

Emirates Woman - March 2020  

Fashion Issue.