JANUARY 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®
New Orleans
®
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GOOD AS GOLD 31 days of must-dos, from Carnival parades to jogging tours
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O R LE A N S S H O E S . C O M
New Orleans CONTENTS
01.17
SEE MORE OF NEW ORLEANS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM
the plan
the guide 22
11 Ask the Expert
DINING
XX
Danny Alford Le Méridien Hotel concierge.
Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood. Plus coffee talk and 20 years of Red Fish.
12 Editor's Itinerary An 90-minute exploration of the Riverbend neighborhood to make the most of your time in the city.
XX 32 SHOPPING Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus a 100-point NOLA to-do list.
14 Hot Dates The Lion King The "circle of life" circles back, Allstate Sugar Bowl, Red Hot Chili Peppers and 24 other entertaining ideas to entertain.
GALLERIES &
37 ANTIQUES XX
A citywide gallery crawl. Plus stunning statuary and outsider art.
40 ENTERTAINMENT XX Tours, attractions, museums, bars and music clubs. Plus Chalmette Battlefield and the NOLA Home Show.
50
64 Where Inside: New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for history buffs, sports fans and music lovers.
16
Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus the new Rampart streetcar line.
XX
58
ON THE COVER The gilded Joan of Arc statue at
JANUARY 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®
New Orleans
®
wheretraveler.com
GOOD AS GOLD 31 days of must-dos, from Carnival parades to jogging tours
Decatur and St.
+
Phillip streets,
‘THE LION KING’ KING CAKE FITNESS FUN
a gift to New Orleans from
where now
ALLSTATE SUGAR BOWL
E~NO-WM_170100_01_Cover.indd 1
France. ©CHRIS MELLOR/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
12/6/16 12:05 PM
16 On the Go 18 Out + About 19 Local Flavor All hail king cake!
20 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER
PLANTATION COUNTRY
Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus picture-perfect plantation weddings.
Think New Orleans is all about overindulgence? How to stay fit in "the city that care forgot." Three Carnival kickoff parties and one steamy read.
CONNECT WITH US
NAVIGATE
Pig ears, oxtails and everything between, hot restaurant dish and salt-free hot sauce.
8 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
MAPS
Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 61-63
(LEFT) ©LA GOURMETREISE/NOCVB; (CENTER) ©DISNEY/PHOTO BY JOAN MARCUS
XX
FOLLOW IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS It should have been impossible. Crossing the world’s widest ocean to answer an attack made by a powerful adversary. Through hostile terrain and untold suffering, millions of Americans pushed past impossible to win the Pacific War. Follow in their footsteps on The Road to Tokyo, a new immersive experience at The National WWII Museum.
#1 Attraction in New Orleans #4 Museum in the United States
504.528.1944 | NATIONALWW2MUSEUM.ORG
YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®
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Where® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. Where magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. MVP is a proud sponsor of Les Clefs d’Or USA
10 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE
Danny Alford Concierge at Le Méridien Hotel
Q: Le Méridien recently introduced its new “Bike the Big Easy” program. How has response been? A: Great. Guests request our rentals all the time. It’s really across the board; we even have bikes for kids. Q: You bike a lot yourself. Any advice for two-wheeling around town? A: Even though we have a lot of bike lanes now, I tell guests it’s just safer to stay out of traffic. So if you’re riding in the French Quarter, I suggest taking Woldenberg Park (p. 42) along the riverfront, which is about a mile ride. If you want to see more of the river, check out Crescent Park (p. 40) in the Marigny/Bywater neighborhood; it’s absolutely beautiful. Q: Where would you guide guests in search of health-conscious cuisine? A: Café Carmo (p. 22) is a wonderful place on Julia Street. It’s a Brazilian/Caribbean mix with a casual atmosphere. The Broken Noodle Salad is my favorite thing there. Q: What if they wanted to indulge? A: Cochon (p. 22), Toups’ Meatery (p. 30) and Jacques Imo’s (8324 Oak St., 504.861.0886) are all great pig-out places. But I’m a big barbecue fan, so I have to add The Joint (p. 30).
(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©COCHON
Q: The Joan of Arc parade or the Phunny Phorty Phellows? A: The Phunny Phorty Phellows (p. 18); it has that old-school New Orleans feel.
Cochon
11
EDITOR’S ITINERARY DOUG BRANTLEY NEWS TO TRAVEL BY
The Essential New Orleans
’
Jogging tours, bike rides, Pilates in the park: January is about getting a fresh start on the new year—even in New Orleans. OK, so there’s the Sugar Bowl, the King Cake Festival and the Phunny Phorty Phellows’ booze-fueled streetcar ride from the Riverbend kicking o Carnival season. Well ... there’s always March. 90 MINUTES IN
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The Riverbend Named for its placement along a curve in the Mississippi, the Riverbend neighborhood (p. 51), easily accessible via the St. Charles streetcar line, is a popular stamping ground for students of nearby Tulane and Loyola universities. Maple Street is packed with cool cafÊs and chic boutiques, as is Oak Street, where the tiny Maple Leaf Bar overflows with sweaty crowds during the Rebirth Brass Band’s legendary Tuesday-night blowouts. Art lovers will fall for the monthly plein-air market at Palmer Park, while foodies are wooed by the area’s many great eateries, such as Brigtsen’s, Boucherie and Carrollton Market. Camellia Grill, where bow-tied waiters have been slinging burgers and entertaining diners since the 1940s, is a must-do. Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.
in the world
Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg
12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
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WHERE CALENDAR JANUARY
For more information: wheretraveler.com
Search the full New Orleans calendar at wheretraveler.com
HOT DATES
TOP STOPS 20 additional entertainment ideas worth entertaining. CHICKIE WAH WAH Jan. 6: The Creole String Beans. 2828 Canal St., 504.304.4714 CIVIC THEATRE Jan. 10: Tom Segura. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865 HOUSE OF BLUES Jan. 5: Brothers Osborne; Jan. 7: Bustout Burlesque; Jan. 8: Willie Nelson & Family; Jan. 10: Kate Voegele and Tyler Hinton. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583
JANUARY 4-29:
The Lion King
Having packed houses during its five-week run in 2012, The Lion King comes roaring back to town this month at the Saenger Theatre. Recently celebrating its 19th year, the beloved Disney production has garnered more than 70 awards (including a “Best Musical” Tony) and ranks as Broadway’s highestgrossing show of all time. The heartwarming tale, which follows the trail of a lion cub named Simba as he grows and navigates the “circle of life,” features stunning visuals and costumes, breathtaking choreography and a timeless score by Elton John and Tim Rice. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000; saengernola.com
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There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online: wheretraveler.com
Great Things Not to Be Missed
share the Smoothie King Center stage with local funkster Trombone Shorty at 7 pm. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000
1 ALLSTATE SUGAR BOWL > JAN. 2 The nation’s second-oldest college bowl game celebrates its 83rd year with the Auburn Tigers taking on the Oklahoma Sooners at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome at 7:30 pm. The fun gets going early with a free Fan Jam in Champions Square beginning at 4 pm. 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000; allstatesugarbowl.com
4 E.T. > JAN. 2022 The Orpheum Theater screens the Spielberg classic while the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra performs John Williams’ Oscar-winning score live. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870
2 WIZARD WORLD COMIC CON > JAN. 68 That Princess Leia lookalike with the Batman wannabe? They’re headed to the Convention Center for this annual gathering geared to fantasy buffs, where the real-life Leia (actress Carrie Fisher) will greet fans. wizardworld.com
3 RED HOT CHILI PEPPERS > JAN. 10 Keep your shirts on: The fun funk rockers
14 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
5 RONALD K. BROWN/EVIDENCE > JAN. 2729 Melding traditional African dance with modern choreography, this troupe joins with locals at the New Orleans Center for Creative Arts. 2800 Chartres St., 504.522.0996; nobadance.com
6 DNCE > JAN. 29 The chart-topping, Joe Jonas-led funk-pop group (“Cake by the Ocean”) pulls into the House of Blues, joined by Sevyn Streeter. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583
LE PETIT THEATRE Jan. 27-Feb. 12: “Jelly’s Last Jam.” 616 St. Peter St., 504.522.2081 MAHALIA JACKSON THEATER Jan. 20-21: “Shen Yun”; Jan. 27: “Miranda Sings Live…You’re Welcome.” 801 N. Rampart St., 800.745.3000; mahaliajacksontheater.com SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Jan. 9: WWE Raw; New Orleans Pelicans Home Games—Jan 5: vs. Atlanta Hawks; Jan. 18: vs. Orlando Magic; Jan. 20: vs. Brooklyn Nets; Jan. 23: Cleveland Cavaliers; Jan. 27: vs. San Antonio Spurs; Jan. 29: vs. Washington Wizards. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000
(TOP) ©DISNEY/PHOTO BY MATTHEW MURPHY; (BOTTOM) ©ROSALIE O'CONNOR
"The Lion King"
JOY THEATER Jan 1: Last Dance: A Tribute to Donna Summer; Jan. 25: Aaron Lewis; Jan. 28: Reel Big Fish and Anti-Flag; Jan. 28: Gad Elmaleh. 1200 Canal St., 800.745.3000
Double Plantation Tour OAK ALLEY
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Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Dinner Jazz Cruise, Sunday Brunch & more Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises 504-569-1401 • SteamboatNatchez.com
where now New Orleans
The city’s top activities, attractions, events, dining and more
Fitness on the Fly Hurricanes and jambalaya and bread pudding—oh my! How to stay in shape while savoring the city. BY MEGAN BRADEN-PERRY
16 W H E R E C I T Y N A M E I M O N T H Y E A R
PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE
ON THE GO
w w w.wheretrave le r. c o m
The Sweat Social
FITNESS 411
Where to work in a Big Easy workout
MOVE YA BRASS moveyabrass.com; frenchmarket.org
Move Ya Brass
(TOP, FROM LEFT) ©MOVE YA BRASS; ©LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUM; ©THE SWEAT SOCIAL; (BOTTOM) ©CHERYL GERBER; (OPENING PAGE) ©MOVE YA BRASS
F
itness in New Orleans can be a hard thing to attain (and maintain) with constant food-centric festivals, alcohol flowing all day everywhere and delicacies that mostly “start with a roux,” a mixture of flour and fat. Thankfully, there are several classes dedicated to helping locals—and visitors—stay in shape while laissant les bon temps roulant. One of the city’s most popular fitness groups is Move Ya Brass, which vice president Thomas Nguyen describes as “a fitness movement that is all about community.” Each week the group hosts a Monday-night guided run and Tuesday-evening bouncemusic dance class/workout at Crescent Park, overlooking the Mississippi River. Singer Robin Barnes started the group in 2015 with just 10 people, and it’s since blossomed to more than 460 members. But they aren’t all local; visitors are encouraged to join in as well. Programs can also be tailored for conventions and other groups. What’s great about Move Ya Brass is that classes are free and there’s no fitness requirement (real or perceived) for participants. “There is no one fitness level that one must achieve to be with Move Ya Brass,” says Nguyen. “We want to cheer you on from start to finish to complete your workout, whether you are running, walking those two or three miles or getting through that Bounce Ya Brass or hip-hop dance/cardio workout.” Even children are welcome.
BOUNCE FITNESS WITH MOEJO
Yoga at the Cabildo
At the New Orleans Jazz Market’s monthly Bounce Fitness with MoeJo events, participants get a great workout while learning a few classic New Orleans-style dance moves. “My first objective is to reach people’s spirit and heart, because that’s the most important foundation of wellness,” says founder Marissa “MoeJoe” Joseph. Incorporating zydeco and second-line moves, MoeJo’s energetic “danceouts” help participants “shed pounds, get leaner bodies, lift their buns and gain confidence, along with an appreciation for Louisiana Creole culture.” “To me, the best part of traveling is sampling the local cuisine,” says Rupa Mohan, the brain behind The Sweat Social, the nation’s first wellness service specifically designed for travelers. “The worst part is feeling like you’ve gained five pounds and need to start all over at the gym.” In addition to “active tours” of the city, Mohan’s group conducts 30-minute fitness classes at Woldenberg Park and other locations that include yoga, kickboxing and more. Yoga is a perfect alternative for those who want to wind down and decompress after a too-fun weekend or stressful business trip. “It can be a great way to break up an otherwise totally debauched visit,” says yogini and certified Pilates instructor Robin Gruenfeld, who conducts classes at the New Orleans Athletic Club. Yoga classes also speak to the loving nature of New Orleans,
bouncefitness.com; phnojm.org the tradition of uniting in relaxation. “There are a ton of great studios in the city that cater to this communal aspect of yoga,” adds Swan River Yoga instructor Alex Hood, “be it for people who live here or for visitors.” Each yoga class and studio is different and, notes Gruenfeld, “often the feel of the studio will mirror the neighborhood in which it’s situated.” That’s ideal for visitors who want to connect to the area they’re staying in, or for those who want to feel like they’re at the yoga studios in their hometowns. You’ll find yoga and Pilates classes offered at tourist attractions citywide, from the New Orleans Museum of Art to the Louisiana State Museum’s Cabildo. Another fun way to combine exercising with exploration is on a New Orleans Jogging Tour. Part 10K run/ part sightseeing trip, groups take off every morning from the Old U.S. Mint.; private and customized excursions are also available. New Orleans has all types of visitors: business-trippers, honeymooners, bachelor partyers, family reunioners, just-passing-throughers. Just like it has lodging, restaurants, bars and attractions geared to every type, there’s a fitness class for everyone too. So enjoy the beignets, gumbo, fried seafood po’boys, pralines, bananas Foster and Hand Grenades, knowing there are several ways to work them off … while keeping the party going.
THE SWEAT SOCIAL thesweatsocial.com
NEW ORLEANS ATHLETIC CLUB neworleansathleticclub.com
SWAN RIVER YOGA swanriveryoga.com
NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART noma.org/events/category/wellness
LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUM friendsofthecabildo.org/cabildo-yoga
NEW ORLEANS JOGGING TOURS neworleansjoggingtours.com
N.O. Jogging Tours
17
WHERE NOW New
Orleans Life on the Mississippi Since Jan. 12, 1812, when the New Orleans first docked in her namesake city, steamboats have been plying the mighty Mississippi. By the 1870s hundreds operated out of the Crescent City, helping usher in New Orleans’ golden age; today there is one. In her new book, Steamboat Natchez, New Orleans (Vissi Darte Books), author and photographer Kerri McCaffety charts the history of steamships on the river, along with the evolution of the Natchez, which has been navigating local waters since 1845. Natchez IX, the last true steamboat
on the Mississippi, debuted in 1975 and continues to be one of the city’s most popular attractions, offering daily harbor and dinner jazz excursions (p. 44). Book a cruise … and grab the book.
Steamboat Natchez
TAKING IT TO THE STREETCARS From 1878 to 1885, the Phunny Phorty Phellows, a group of merry maskers, followed behind the regal Rex parade on Mardi Gras Day, bringing a close to the season of “phun and phrivolity.” That tradition was reborn and revamped in 1981, with the fun-loving krewe now taking to the St. Charles streetcar to herald the “countdown to Carnival.” The Mardi Gras madness kicks off on Twelfth Night (Jan. 6) at 6:30 pm with king cake and a Champagne toast at the Willow Street St. Charles Avenue to Canal Street and back again. Following in the Phellows’ tracks, a new krewe (also limited to 40 members) hits the rails this year in celebration of the recently OUT+ABOUT
completed Rampart streetcar line. The Not So Secret Society
Golden Girl
of Elysian Fields boards at Elysian Fields and Rampart at
Celebrate the city’s French connection—and the 605th birthday of the “Maid of Orleans”—during the Krewe de Jeanne d’Arc parade Jan. 6 at 7 pm. Started in 2008 in an effort to help keep the French martyr’s legacy alive, the candle-lit procession, which weaves through the streets of the Vieux Carré, has established itself as a must-catch kickoff to Carnival season. “People are ready for Mardi Gras after the long Christmas season,” says founder Amy Kirk-Duvoisin, “and we’re a nice bridge between the two.” Historical characters in medieval garb on horseback, marching monks, parading puppets, blaring bagpipes—you’ll think you’ve stumbled upon a roving Renaissance fair. joanofarcparade.org
circling back. Riders will disembark at each stop along the
18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
7:30 pm, and continues to Union Passenger Terminal, before way to raise a toast and toss a few beads. Position yourself on Canal Street, and you might be lucky enough to catch both.
Phunny Phorty Phellows
(LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; (RIGHT) ©KERRI MCCAFFETY; (BOTTOM) ©SHAWN FINK; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©SUCRÉ
Car Barn (Willow and S. Carrollton streets), then rolls along
LOCAL FLAVOR
A Piece of Cake Question: What’s purple, green and gold, tooth-achingly sweet and comes with a tiny plastic baby tucked inside? Answer: King cake, the official—and ubiquitous—Carnival confection that dates to medieval times. You’ll find the sugarcoated oval loaves at bakeries and restaurants all over town this month, from the traditional almond-paste version at Croissant D’or (p. 26) to the iridescent-frosted showstopper at Sucré (p. 30) to the appleand-goat cheese variety at New Orleans Cake Café (p. 30). The 4th annual King Cake Festival, Jan. 29 at Champions Square (p. 40), lets you sample the best of the best. For details, visit kingcakefestival.org.
Sucré
Orleans Hot Dish What’s new, notable and not to be missed
Johnny Sánchez FOOD+DRINK
LA THAI Resembling a swank Thai palace in shades of turquoise and gold, this gorgeous space is the perfect setting for chef Diana Chauvin Galle’s modern and traditional Thai food. Do not miss “Mama’s Stuffed Chicken Wings,” the city’s best hot-and-sour soup and the “Crispy Pulled Duck Confit Cubes.” The barbecue shrimp with Thai flavors puts a new twist on a local classic with Louisiana shrimp swimming in a finger-licking butter sauce scented with ginger and lemongrass. 4938 Prytania St., 504.899.8886
Hit the Nose-to-Tail Trail Odd as it may sound, culinary nostalgia is making a comeback. Yes, again. During the short period of time when Louisiana’s cold weather beckons deeper, heavier dishes, restaurant chefs reach for nose-totail cuts of meat, using timeless and modern cooking methods for dishes that taste of then and now, old and new. Pickled pig’s ears packed into jars on convenience-store counters have their charm. But the crispy fried pig ears topping house-made tagliatelle pasta with wild boar sausage and rich pork sauce at Patois (p. 31) or the “Pig Ear Chilaquiles” with fresh cheese, salsa and a yard egg at Johnny Sánchez (p. 23) make for appealing modern-minded meals. Notoriously tough, cheek meat requires long cooking to become tender. At Angeline (p. 25) chef Alex Harrell smokes then fries pork cheeks for a starter that folds in cornbread puree, satsuma, jalapeno and roasted peanuts. Neck meat is currently the darling of the culinary world for its tenderness and slightly exotic taste. Turkey and the Wolf (p. 30) has an easy, open-faced lamb neck with caraway, lemony yogurt and cucumbers atop roti
bread, while chef Will Avelar at Meril (p. 23) takes turkey necks, a soul food staple, dusts them with cumin and fries them crisp. Chewy strips of tripe (fourth stomach) are generally found in soups like menudo or pho. At Primitivo (p. 25), a different, meatier type of tripe is smoked and braised tender for a hauntingly divine dish with tomato, fine curls of Grana Padano cheese, chiles and croutons. From the rump, oxtails, braised or stewed and slurped lustily, are a part of many world cuisines. At CK’s Hot Shoppe (1433 Baronne St., 504.339.3867), just off St. Charles Avenue, oxtails are glorious in the peanut-laced, meaty Philippine dish kare-kare. Nose-to-tail dining is nothing new, but the surge in dishes using these meats in modern, innovative ways is. —Lorin Gaudin
20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
Brown Butter
BROWN BUTTER This tucked-away Mid-City gem offers a $20 three-course lunch on Fridays (start with crispy, charred Brussels sprouts dusted generously with fat salt crystals and lemon) and brunch both weekend days (go for the house-smoked salmon and homemade Boursin on grilled ciabatta). At dinner, it’s all about dragging pork through the garden with meaty, bone-in ribs, marinated cucumbers, mint and pork jus. 231 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.609.3871 ALTAMURA An antebellum mansion with MidCentury modern décor and northeastern American Italian food? Yes, and the combination is molto bene. Chef Coleman Jernigan earns raves for retro dishes like clams casino, airy gnudi (ricotta gnocchi), killer pasta puttanesca and fork-tender osso bucco. The New Orleans nod: a gorgeous Gulf shrimp parmesan with bright and tangy house marinara and fresh mozzarella. Save room for dessert; the zeppole seal the deal. 2127 Prytania St., 504.265.8101 —LG
LOUISIANA PURCHASE It’s no easy thing getting New Orleanians to be mindful of their salt and fat intake. In fact, it’s pretty much an exercise in futility. Stressing a lower sodium intake to his patients, local nephrologist Dr. Adrian Baudy found that while most complied by reducing added salt, they were instead shaking sodium-loaded hot sauce on everything. So the good doctor got cooking and came up with Doc’s Salt-Free Hot Sauce, which has all the power-packed flavor and heat of regular varieties but without the sodium, gluten and crazy additives. Go ahead, spike those red beans, and hit that gumbo with a shot of heat! You’ll find Doc’s on area retail shelves and at salt-free.com. —LG
(TOP) ©RANDY SCHMIDT/JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ; (CENTER) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©DOC’S SALT-FREE HOT SAUCE
WHERE NOW New
the guide Red Alert! Red Alert!
Truck Stop
Two decades ago few restaurateurs would have dared open an upscale eatery in the 100 block of Bourbon Street. Except Ralph Brennan, that is, who helped revitalize the onceseedy section and change public perception with his Red Fish Grill (p. 28). Marking its 20th anniversary this month, Brennan’s award-winning, seafood-centric restaurant has since been joined on the block by Bourbon House, Hard Rock Café and more. Stop in and celebrate with the Grill’s signature barbecue oysters (try the po’boy version at lunch), alligator sausage-and-seafood gumbo and trademark wood-grilled redfish topped with lump crab. On Jan. 31 diners receive special complimentary birthday desserts.
When Geoffrey Meeker began roasting beans in his laundry room in 2012, little did he know how popular French Truck Coffee (p. 29) would become. Now found in restaurants citywide, this month New Orleans’ first micro-roaster opens its third “third wave” coffee shop at 221 Chartres Street. Stop in and see what’s brewing.
Central Business/ Warehouse District
COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be
THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic
homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as “Victory Garden” salads, open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 BALISE French. Chef Justin Devillier of La Petite
Grocery and “Top Chef” fame now has a second space in a beautifully restored 1830s building with cool art, smart cocktails and a small menu with depth. Must-haves include the fried smoked oysters and chicken and ricotta dumplings. $$ L (Tu-F), D (M-Su); Sa-Su brunch. www.balisenola.com. 640 Carondelet St., 504.459.4449. Map 3, C5 BORGNE Seafood. At this seafood-centric John
Besh restaurant (helmed by mega-talented chef Brian Landry), fantastic apps (such as duck-andjalapeno poppers) partner swimmingly with easy-going sandwiches, fish cooked “in a bag” and more. $$ L, D (daily). www.borgnerestaurant. 22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
com. 601 Loyola Ave. (in the Hyatt Regency Hotel), 504.613.3860. Map 3, C3 CAFÉ ADELAIDE Louisiana. Chef Meg Bickford
helms the kitchen at this bistro spinoff of Commander’s Palace in the Loews Hotel. Bickford serves up playful takes on modern Creole cuisine. Try the oyster and pork belly po’ boy. B (daily), L (MF), D (M-Su). www.cafeadelaide.com. 300 Poydras St., 504.595.3305. Map 3, D6 CAFÉ CARMO International. This island-inspired
space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious—dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich (a grilled plantain patty topped with pulled pork) and shrimp-filled black-eyed pea fritters. Veggie and vegan options are also featured. $ L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). www.cafecarmo.com. 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the
standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5
“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPANY BURGERAmerican. Adam Biderman’s
award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Hand-ground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with American cheese; house-made mayo and pickles; freshbaked buns. Add a side of hand-cut, twice-cooked fries...and dig in. $ L, D (daily). www.thecompanyburger.com. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; L, D (W-M). 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Luicia,
chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? A horchata panna cotta with compressed melon, of course. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su).
(LEFT) © RED FISH GRILL; (RIGHT) ©FRENCH TRUCK COFFEE
Dining January
DINING
www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of
steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 DOMENICA Italian. Inspired by traditional Sunday
Italian family feasts (hence its name), this hot spot is
counted among celebrated local chef John Besh’s growing family of restaurants. Dive into out-ofthe-norm antipasta (octopus carpaccio, roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. $$ L, D (daily). www.domenicarestaurant.com. 123 Baronne St. (in the Roosevelt Hotel), 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship
sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie
and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (daily). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 HERBSAINT French. James Beard Award-winning
chef Donald Link’s entrées range from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com. 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5 JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Squash blossom
tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chefs (and old friends) John Besh and Aarón Sánchez teamed to create this hip eatery, which puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L (Su-F), D (nightly). www.johnnysanchezrestaurant. com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace
For an authentic New Orleans experience
Hotel eatery, snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Sa-Su, brunch. www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual
dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue and chorizo flatbread to boudin tamales and jerk chicken thighs. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants.com/ meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 MULATE’S Cajun. A family friendly restaurant
where the Cajun food (dark-roux gumbos, fried alligator, catfish smothered in crawfish etouffée) is only one of the highlights. Two-step to live music nightly. Also available for private functions. $ L, D (daily). www.mulates.com. 201 Julia St., 504.522.1492. Map 3, C7 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-
ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-
met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap (including a full line of locally made Abita brews), live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is
known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. Live music Sa-Su. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 RESTAURANT AUGUST French. In New Orleans,
Located in the heart of the French Quarter www.FrenchQuarter-Dining.com
chefs are as famous as rock stars, and John Besh is the city’s culinary Sting. He knows the classics, he’s bold in his experimentation and he’s got a vision. The dining rooms are elegant, and the food is spectacular, as Besh combines European style w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 23
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Riverside Dining
“Home of the Steamed Seafood Bucket”
Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.
SPANISH PLAZA ON THE RIVER Across from Harrah’s Casino
Enjoy one of our seafood buckets after shopping at the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk
tRoyal Bucket tBourbon St. Combo (Boiled Shrimp & Snow Crab)
RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h. Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).
Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................22
Central City..................................................................................................24 French Quarter........................................................................................25 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 29 Marigny/Bywater............................................................................ .......30 Mid-City..........................................................................................................30 Uptown..........................................................................................................30
504-569-3380 Certificate of Excellence winner.
www.thecrazylobster.com
Crazy Lobster welcomes all Sugar Bowl fans to New Orleans! with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.restaurantaugust.com. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New
York’s award-winning Grand Banks oyster bar cast a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a wide wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (daily). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli. The St. James
is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through salads, pâtés, olives, wines and on and on. You can dine in or order a sandwich or picnic to go. $ L (M-Su), D (M-Sa). www.stjamescheese.com. 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4 TOMMY G’S PIZZERIA & BAR Italian. Convenient
to the Convention Center, this casual spot serves subs, a variety of pasta entrees, house-made lasagna, calzones and pizza whole or by the slice. $ L, D, (daily). www.tommygspizzeria.com. 901 Convention Center Blvd., 504.561.8881. Map 3, C8 WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chefs Lisa
White and Kelly Fields, known for their beautiful baked goods, show off their savory sides as well in dishes such as corn-and-crab fritters and lamb pot pie. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4
Central City DRYADES PUBLIC MARKET Eclectic. With its local
vendors and crystal chandeliers, this Central City 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
Creole Cookery welcomes all Sugar Bowl fans to New Orleans! 510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM
DINING
newcomer merges down-home with up-market. The soaring space serves as both a grocery/gathering spot for area residents and a destination for visitors hungry for a taste of the contemporary Crescent City. 1307 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.333.6100. Map 1, D3 MAÏS AREPAS Latin. An upscale Creole-Colombian
restaurant that puts overstuffed filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center, the best of which is loaded with sweet plantains, skirt steak and melted Oaxaca cheese. Great, fresh-muddled margaritas. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5
PRIMITIVO American. “Open hearth, urban cave-
man cooking” is the concept here. Inspired by backyard grill-offs, the menu changes often with dishes such as smoked oysters with green tomato chow chow and rib eye with bone-marrow butter. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1800 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.881.1775. Map 1, D3 TOUPS SOUTHSouthern. Chef Isaac Toups serves
up museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery. Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad, offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D
(M, W-Sa); Su brunch. www.toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3
French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. For locals, the
name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell. Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’ boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 3000 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.309.4056. Map 1, C2; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6 ANGELINESouthern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama
upbringing informs the menu at his casually elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup, crispy smoked pork cheeks with cornbread puree and the Gulf shrimp and country ham with butterbeans and sweet potatoes. $$$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.angelinenola. com. 1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s
is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch. Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining
rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brulot are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); Su jazz brunch. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Nestled in a 200-year-old
Creole cottage, Bayona continues its reign as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to
Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com. 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is
back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (Tu-Su). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ AMELIE Louisiana. Located in a gorgeous
French Quarter courtyard and carriage house, this is the perfect spot for a leisurely outdoor lunch or w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 25
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romantic dinner. Try the crab cakes with citrus drizzle, satsuma-pepper glazed shrimp or a seasonal cocktail. $$ L (W-Sa), D (W-Su); Su brunch. A quickservice offshoot, Petite Amelie, offers takeout just next door (900 Royal St., 412-8065). www.cafeamelie.com. 912 Royal St., 504.412.8965. Map 3, H4
334 Royal St
7:00am-10:00pm
311 Bourbon St 8:00am-Midnight
CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks, and
Photo: Kaela Rodehorst Williams
delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www.cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; B, L, D (daily) 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent
City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CANE & TABLE Cuban. This rum-centric restau-
rant provides a taste of the tropics and the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu in dishes such as deep-fried ribs with papaya chutney. $$ L (W-F), D (nightly); brunch, Sa-Su. www.caneandtablenola. com. 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery
is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L (Tu-Sa). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French
Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, make for a memorable dining experience. $$ L, D (daily). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CROISSANT D’OR PATISSERIE Bakery. This vener-
able pastry shop produces a stunning array of buttery croissants, fresh fruit danishes and any number of dreamy creations devised from storehouses of chocolate, cream and magic. $ B, L (W-M). 617 Ursuline Ave., 504.524.4663. Map 3, H4 DESIRE OYSTER BAR Louisiana. In addition to its
trademark oysters on the half shell, this Bourbon Street bistro serves up Belgian waffles, po’ boys, burgers and entrées such as crawfish etouffeé and shrimp and grits. $ B, L, D (daily). www.sonesta. com. 300 Bourbon St. (in the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.586.0300. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An
upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces (try the barbecue ribeye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters). Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steak-
house and butcher shop featuring superior quality dry-aged meats. The hunger-inducing menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. $$$ D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan.com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
Beignets, Coffees, breakfast & lunch menus, with “Local Libations” at the Bourbon Street location!
www.cafebeignet.com
DINING
GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has
been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GW FINS Seafood. Chef Tenney Flynn has
taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,
filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-
personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (Th-Sa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KINGFISH Louisiana. “New Louisiana” is the
concept at this popular spot, with creative spins on local standards such as fried deviled duck eggs on arugula with candy-pecan vinaigrette and cochon de lait with cracklin-crusted boudin cake. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa- Su). www.kingfishneworleans.com. 337 Chartres St., 504.598.5005. Map 3, F4 LATITUDE 29 Eclectic. World-renowned tiki guru
Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s seriously cool, newschool tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Island flurishes, brilliant bartenders and chefs with a strong local following make this one a winner. $$ (L, D) Tu-Su. www.latitude29nola. com. 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5 MORTON’S Steaks. Located just steps from the
French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons. com. 365 Canal St. (in the Shops at Canal Place), 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is
another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.mrbsbistro. com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never
slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L (M-Sa),
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D (Tu-Sa). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.
Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NINE ROSES CAFÉVietnamese. This French
Quarter offshoot of the Westbank Vietnamese food haven features such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. $ L, D (M-Sa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter
bistro is a perennial hot spot. The menu is filled with Emeril creations such as Louisiana crab cakes with Creole tartar sauce, pork cheek boudin balls with tomato-bacon jam and a grilled double-cut pork chop with pecan-glazed sweet potatoes. Don’t leave without tasting the banana pudding layer cake. $$ L (Th-M), D (nightly). www.emerils. com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former
Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-
rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com. 104853-XX-57.indd 1 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?
Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this
très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com. 309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed
chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SALON BY SUCRÉ Eclectic. Pastry chef extraordi-
naire Tariq Hanna’s homage to haute cuisine is a reflection of his passion for presentation of dishes both savory and sweet. Upstairs is the place for afternoon tea, a glass of wine and daily protein selections that can be ordered as an app or main course. Downstairs it’s all about Hanna’s amazing desserts. $$ Brunch, D (Th-M). www.restaurantsalon.com. 622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4 28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
3/10/15 11:06:43 AM
DINING
SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south
of Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B, L, D (daily). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance
meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the Korean beef po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, corned beef hash and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.stanleyrestaurant.com. 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers
dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.sylvainnola.com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit
Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef Gus Martin. $$ B (M-F), L (daily), D (nightly); brunch (SaSu). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4
Garden District/ Lower Garden District CARIBBEAN ROOM Eclectic. This Garden District
gem was recently reopened by John Besh with chef Chris Lusk at the helm. Like the décor, the menu melds old and new, with long-popular favorites like Mile High Pie joining modern additions, such as wagyu beef and beet tartare. Jackets required; jeans discouraged. $$$ L (F), D (daily); Su brunch. www.thecaribbeanroom.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D3 COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved
turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers. Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you
mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 EMERIL’S DELMONICO Creole. Located on the St.
Charles streetcar line, this elegant circa-1895 restaurant now serves chef Emeril Lagasse’s modern takes on Creole classics. Start with the house-made charcuterie, before moving on to dry-aged steaks, shrimp Bordelaise or reinvented drum meunière. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 1300 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.4937. Map 1, D3 FRENCH TRUCK COFFEE Coffee. Named for the
vintage Citroën vehicles it uses for deliveries, French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first micro-roster. Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés. $ Open daily.
w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 29
THE GUIDE
www.frenchtruckcoffee.com. 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, A7; 504.298.1115. Map 1, D4 MIYAKO SUSHI BAR & HIBACHI Japanese. Hibachis
are the draw here, but sushi lovers will be just as happy. Dexterous hibachi chefs wow guests, preparing lobster, prime rib, scallops and more. Sushi, sashimi and tempura are also on the menu. $$ L (Su-F), D (nightly). www.miyakonola.com. 1403 St. Charles Ave., 504.410.9997. Map 1, D3 ROOT/SQUARE ROOT Contemporary. Two hip
restaurants in one. Upstairs the focus is on chef Phillip Lopez’s contemporary twists on culinary standards and creative charcuterie. Downstairs centers around 16 seats flanking an open kitchen and Lopez’s multi-course tasting menu (online reservations only). $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.squarerootnola. com. 1800 Magazine St., 504.309.7800. Map 1, D4 SUCRÉ Dessert. This chic spot is worth a visit for
the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates and musthave macarons. $ Open daily. www.shopsucre. com. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti. St., 504.708.4366. Map 3, F4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.834.2299. Map 1, C2 TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches
are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and hot mustard, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab-boil potatoes served open-faced. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L, D (W-Su). www.turkeyandthewolf. com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4
Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/
bar/live music venue is alsoa full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 THE JOINT Barbecue. This funky Bywater fave is
slim on frills but big on slow-cooked barbecue (pulled pork, beef brisket, juicy ribs) and generous sides. $ L, D (M-Sa). www.alwayssmokin.com. 701 Mazant St., 504.949.3232. Map 1, E3 NEW ORLEANS CAKE CAFÉ & BAKERY Dessert.
Steven “the Cake Man” Himelfarb offers breakfast and lunch at his charming Bywater café, but it’s cake that’s the beloved baker’s calling card. Bananas Foster with banana icing, classic red velvet— yummy. $$ B, L (W-M). www.nolacakes.com. 2440 Chartres St., 504.943.0010. Map 3, K6 PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking
New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au natural. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); brunch (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 PIZZA DELICIOUS Italian. This pop-up pizzeria
grew so popular that it now has its own brickand-mortar space. New York-style pies with an ever-changing array of market-fresh toppings are offered whole or by the slice. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.pizzadelcious.com. 617 Piety St.,, 504.676.8482. Map 1, E3 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its
best, including the Connection platter (fried pick30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
les, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this
long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3 THREE MUSES Eclectic. This Frenchmen Street
hot spot offers a clubby vibe, live music, smart cocktails and amazing eats. Raves are drawn for the menu’s variety and chef Daniel Esses’ stellar preparations of small plate-portioned lamb sliders, feta fries and a stunning rendition of braised pork belly atop a crisp scallion pancake. $ D (W-M). www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5
Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip
Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 CAFÉ NOMA Contemporary. Located within the
New Orleans Museum of Art, Ralph Brennan’s contemporary bistro offers an artful mix of small plates, soups, salads and sandwiches. $ L (Tu-Su), D (F). www.cafenoma.com. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.482.1264. Map 1, D2 MOPHO Vietnamese. Chef Mike Gulotta rocks
modern Vietnamese-inspired dishes at his naughty-named restaurant near the Canal streetcar line. The sweet-and-spicy chicken wings and pepper jelly-glazed clams are must-gets. $$ L, D (daily). www.mophonola.com. 514 City Park Ave., 504.482.6845. Map 1, D2 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Restaurateur
Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.ralphsonthepark.com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups
is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3
Uptown BOUCHERIE Southern. Looking for a great, off-the-
beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathaniel Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’ boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.boucherie-nola.com. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 BRIGTSEN’S Creole. A protegé of Paul Prud-
homme, chef Frank Brigtsen’s food is rooted in Louisiana tradition, but moves into a sphere of
8132 Hampson St. 504.252.9928 carrolltonmarket.com
DINING
its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.brigtsens.com. 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3 CAMELLIA GRILL American. Say burger in New Or-
leans, and Camellia Grill instantly comes to mind. Why? Juicy cheeseburgers, crispy fries and savory chili at one of the most coveted lunch (and dinner) counters in the city—that’s why. $ B, L, D (daily). 626 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.309.2679. Map 1, C3; 540 Chartres St., 504.522.1800. Map 3, G4 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason
Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots.” No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough—flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ D (Tu-Sa). www.carrolltonmarket.com. 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 3, C3 CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beauti-
ful deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Ben Thibodeaux’s casual coastal cuisine. Start with the Old Bay-seasoned fries or scallop crudo, before moving on to the seared Gulf fish. $$ B (F-Su), D (nightly). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 KENTON’SAmerican. Chef Kyle Knall’s menu is full
of smoke and spirit (he has a thing for bourbon). Try the crispy grits with country ham and bourbon aioli or slow-smoked sea trout with charred red onion, pickled mustard seed and apples. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.kentonsrestaurant. com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.891.1177. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY French. An intimate French
bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.lapetitegrocery.com. 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4
Home of the Original
BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP
PASCAL’S MANALE American. A New Orleans land-
mark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 PATOIS Louisiana. Chef Aaron Burgau has earned
all of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a young man “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a cool neighborhood bar scene. $$$ L (F), D (W-Sa); Su brunch. www.patoisnola.com. 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4 SHAYA Mediterranean. Uptown gets a taste of
FAMOUS OYSTER BAR TUSFFUDBS TUPQ Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties
Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.
Israel at this award-winning eatery from chef Alon Shaya. Shaya’s wood-burning oven turns out a full menu of falafel and kebabs, along with interesting entrees such as slow-cooked lamb with pomegranate tabouleh. $$ L, D (daily). www.shayarestaurant. com. 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4 SLICE Italian. As its name suggests, this popular
pizzeria offers New York-style pies by the slice, as well as whole. Along with a large selection of top-notch toppings (Gulf shrimp, grilled slamon, andouille sausage), pasta dishes, calzones and subs are featured, in addition to soups, salads, beer and wine. $ L, D (daily). www.slicepizzeria. com. 5538 Magazine St., 504.897.4800. Map 1, D4; 1513 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.7437. Map 1, D3 w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 31
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THE GUIDE
Shopping A Manual of Must-Dos “With it’s haunted past, New Orleans will likely have things for you to do after you die,” writes author Beth D’Addona in her new book 100 Things to Do in New Orleans Before You Die (Reedy Press), “but this lineup is a good start.” D’Addona, who visited the city frequently starting in the 1990s before putting down permanent roots in 2012, checks off a Big Easy bucket list that touches on everything from food and music to sports and shopping. Spotlighting both the obvious (No. 2: “Eat Flaming Bananas Foster at Brennan’s,” shown) and the obscure (No. 70: ”Visit a Washateria Music Shrine”), the Crescent City primer covers it all and then some. You’ll find it on shelves citywide, including the gift shop at the Historic New Orleans Collection (p. 44).
DIRTY COAST Just when you thought New Orleans
couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here.The shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 2121 Chartres St. 504.324.6459. Map 3, J5; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 JACI BLUE At this boutique you’ll find gorgeous,
fashion-forward clothing, lingerie and accessories, handpicked to flatter women size 12 and up. www.jaciblue.com. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929. Map 1, D4 NOLA TIL YA DIEWhy just wear your heart on your
sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie. com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as
Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories. www.trashydiva. com. 829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St.,
504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4
Gifts & Collectibles
There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:
wheretraveler.com
BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry
(including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-
rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features
everything from toys and kitchen accessories to sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. are also available. www.ideafactoryneworleans.com. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4 LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep
small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.magicboxneworleans.com. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s bou-
tique offers select apparel for both girls and boys,
from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4
PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French
Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 RAZZLE DAZZLE Searching for great gift items?
Step into this French Quarter boutique, where Mardi Gras masks and collectibles are coupled with jewerly, locally made candles, seasonal home accents and more. www.razzledazzle.com. 742 Royal St., 504.568.0001. Map 3, G4 REV. ZOMBIE’S VOODOO SHOP Interested in the
occult? This shop offers a wide array of goods geared to both novices and practitioners: tribal masks and talismans, spell kits and candles, books and herbs. Psychic and spiritual readings are also available. www.voodooneworleans.com. 723 St. Peter St., 504.486.6366. Map 3, G4 SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal
and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, note cards, custom wax seals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com. 5423
ANTHONY DAVIS, the New Orleans Pelicans’ fashionable forward, has partnered with Saks Fifth Avenue on an athleisure wear line; check it out at The Shops at Canal Place. 32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
©REEDY PRESS AND THE RALPH BREENNAN GROUP
Clothing
SHOPPING
Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2
Hats & Accessories GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops
date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2123 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,
where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.899.9299. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.701.1858. Map 1, D4 WEHMEIER’S This emporium stocks a wide
variety of super-premium items in exotic leathers, including alligator, ostrich and lizard belts, bags and accessories. Fine leather boots for both men and women from Lucchese, Old Gringo and Lane are featured. www.wehmeiers.com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.681.2082. Map 3, E5
Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with an-
tique barbershop memorabilia and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that
has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 MECCA ESSENTIAL SALTS & BATH PRODUCTS
Over the past two decades Mecca Davis has traveled the South, searching out natural skin-care remedies. The result is her popular line of organic bath bombs and scented Epsom salts, found at the French Market. www.meccaessential.com. French Market, 504.408.3402. Map 3, H5 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,
award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3
Home & Garden AKA STELLA GRAY“Bohemian luxury” is the
YOUR JEWELRY ISN’T JUST JEWELRY
concept at this artfully appointed home décor shop. Antique accents and vintage items meld with funky furniture, offbeat art, cool lighting and more. www.akastellagray.com. 4422 Magazine St., 504.208.2300. Map 1, D4 HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet
719 ROYAL STREET NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 504.522.0222 504.522.9222 Some jewelry displayed patented (US Pat. No. 7,007,507) • © 2015 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved • PANDORA.NET
Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5515 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor
to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 33
THE GUIDE
Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc. Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www.louisianataxfree.com. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.
Index Clothing........................................................................................................ 32
Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 32 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 33 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 33 Home & Garden ................................................................................... 33 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 34 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 35 Shoes............................................................................................................... 35 Special Services...................................................................................... 35
cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com. 4304 Magazine St., 504.516.2601. Map 1, D4 RD HOME Contemporary furnishings and table-
ware meld with estate pieces at this home decor shop. www.razzledazzle.com. 2014 Magazine St., 504.523.9525. Map 1, D4
Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear
boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. www.artandeyesnola.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron,
St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. As its name suggests, fleurs de lis are prominent. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 KREWE DU OPTIC Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett
has garnered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.kreweduoptic.com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2945. Map 3, H4 MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer Mignon
Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget. com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The
34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
SHOPPING
Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5 WELLINGTON & COMPANYďšź This shop is largely
B
A
devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. A large selection of diamond engagement rings is also featured, along with new designer lines such as Thistle & Bee. www.wcjewelry.com. 505 Royal St., 504.525.4855. Map 3, F4
Southern Exotic
Malls/Major Retailers 8Oa]\ 9`c^^O EW\Ua ]T 3RS\ $
JAX BREWERYďšź This 1891 brewhouse is now a
riverfront marketplace with three levels of shops and restaurants. www.jacksonbrewery.com. 600 Decatur St., 504.566.7245. Map 3, G5 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALKďšź Located
along the Mississippi River at the foot of Canal Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. www.riverwalkmarketplace.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7
! 2SQObc` Ab <Se =`ZSO\a :/ % ! eee QZOW`SSZWhOPSb VUOZZS`g Q][
THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACEď&#x161;ź Canal Place features
some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Armani Collezioni, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace.com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5
C
Shoes DONALD J. PLINERď&#x161;ź This Canal Place retailer is
devoted to shoes, handbags and accessories from designer Donald J. Pliner. www.donaldjpliner.com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.522.1720. Map 3, E5 GOOD FEETď&#x161;ź Foot pain? Step into this shop for pro-
fessionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes and accessories. www.orleansshoes. com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2 JOHN FLUEVOGď&#x161;źâ&#x20AC;?Unique soles for unique souls.â&#x20AC;?
This forward-thinking footwear shop is a â&#x20AC;&#x153;shoe-inâ&#x20AC;? among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4
D
books, toys, gifts & apparel D A B
fers high-fashion womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shoes without the high prices that usually accompany them. Get a step ahead with a large selection of cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4
FOR INFANTS, TODDLERS AND CHILDREN
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St. a r tre s 333 Ch 6.134 0 5 0 4.56 aily Open d ADVERTISEMENT
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to USPS, UPS and FedEX shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility offers Internet access, copying and faxing services. www.frenchquarterpostal.com. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4 PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESď&#x161;źWhy bother
with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4 w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 35
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THE GUIDE
Galleries+Antiques
Out of Africa
Art in the Park
Visitors of nearby Whitney Plantation (p. 59) are often struck by sculptor Woodrow Nash’s powerful depictions of former slave children that dot the grounds of the nation’s first museum devoted to the subject. Fans of the lifelike, life-size ceramic creations will also find Nash’s works at the Angela King Gallery (p. 37). In addition to his slave children series, the Ohio-based artist is known for his “African Nouveau” tribal art, which melds 15th-century Benin culture with 18th-century European techniques. Nash’s sculptures, long popular among attendees of Jazzfest where he often exhibits, are counted among the personal collections of Smokey Robinson, Tina Knowles, Katie Couric and others.
Get a little culture while getting some fresh air Jan. 28 during Arts Market New Orleans (p. 39) at Palmer Park. Each month more than 100 area artisans (such as Michael Guidry, shown) take it outside for this sprawling plein-air exhibit, which features everything from paintings and photography to glassworks and textiles.
Central Business/ Warehouse District ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the
works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jaggert. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 608 Julia St., 504.309.0394. Map 3, C5 ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’
leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com. 432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5
(LEFT) ©ANGELA KING GALLERY; (RIGHT) ©MICHAEL GUIDRY
JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is
home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,
sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-
ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ preeminent
exhibition space for African-American artists,
featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www.stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4
There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:
wheretraveler.com
French Quarter ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-
ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-
eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern
France on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18thcentury antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4; 611 & 619 Royal St. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority
of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French
Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custombuilt on site. www.bevolo.com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4
CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY Emerging local and
regional artists are spotlighted here. Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts. www.claireelizabethgallery.com. 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig
Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film. Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning
photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this
shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4
DURING THE EARLY 1800S, artist and naturalist John James Audubon drew inspiration from Louisiana’s native wildlife for his groundbreaking Birds in America series. w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 37
THE GUIDE
Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.
A PIC T UR E AND A T H OU SAND WOR DS AN E XH I B I T I O N O N V I E W T H R O U G H M AR C H 2 5 , 2 0 1 7
MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.
AD M I S S I O N I S F R E E
Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 37
French Quarter ...................................................................................... 37 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................39 Other Locations .................................................................................... 39
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HALLď&#x161;şBARNETT GALLERYď&#x161;ź During the 1980s,
Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4 KAKO GALLERYď&#x161;ź Original Louisiana art is this
offbeat galleryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s draw. Paintings, photos, prints, woodturnings, jazz-themed pottery, bottlecap-covered crossesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4 LUCULLUSď&#x161;ź An antique shop specializing in objects
for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUESď&#x161;ź This third-generation family
business is one of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MAISON ROYALEď&#x161;ź Original impressionistic and post-
impressionistic oilworks are the focus here. Featured artists include Camille Pisarro, Maurice Utrillo and Raoul Dufy, among others. www.maisonroyale. com. 501 Royal St., 504.524.5045. Map 3, F4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERYď&#x161;ź This branch of the
nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, MirĂł, Warhol, Haring and ErtĂŠ, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MARTIN WELCH ARTď&#x161;ź Martin â&#x20AC;&#x153;the Crab Manâ&#x20AC;? Welch
has been capturing crustaceans on canvas since 2002. His brightly hued, sea-themed works have been showcased at the New Orleans Museum of Art as well as on the HBO series â&#x20AC;&#x153;Treme.â&#x20AC;? www.martinwelchart.com. 223 Dauphine St., 504.388.4240. Map 3, F3 MICHALOPOULOSď&#x161;ź The off-kilter architectural
renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find them here, along with 38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
Williams Research Center 410 Chartres Street in the French Quarter Tuesdayâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Saturday, 9:30 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;4:30 p.m. (504) 523-4662 www.hnoc.org
Place to Perch | 60â&#x20AC;? x 36â&#x20AC;?
GALLERIES+ANTIQUES
ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE, llc FRENCH INTĂ&#x2030;RIEURS & JARDINS
his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 RED TRUCK GALLERYď&#x161;ź â&#x20AC;&#x153;Beautiful, unexpected artâ&#x20AC;?
by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 938 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RODRIGUE STUDIOď&#x161;ź This French Quarter landmark
is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cajun roots period and popular â&#x20AC;&#x153;Blue Dogâ&#x20AC;? series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 VINTAGE 329ď&#x161;ź A mecca for history and Hollywood
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buffs, this hip shop is filled with maps, signed collectibles and one-of-a-kind jewelry. Marilyn Monroe glamour pics, first-edition novels and assorted music memorabilia are among the many offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ARTď&#x161;ź This gallery features fine
works in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by ToulouseLautrec. www.windsorfineart.com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4
Magazine Street & Uptown COLE PRATT GALLERYď&#x161;ź One of Magazine Streetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s
leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYď&#x161;źStep into
this Uptown studio, with it pop-art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll understand why Elle calls Longshore â&#x20AC;&#x153;New Orleansâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Most Badass Artist.â&#x20AC;? www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUESď&#x161;ź Who needs Paris when
thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture found here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4
Other Locations ARTISTSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; MARKET & BEAD SHOPď&#x161;ź Looking for un-
discovered talent? Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works by dozens of regional artists. Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Pl., 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANSď&#x161;ź This showcase
for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Palmer Park. Works by more than 100 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3 FRENCHMEN ART MARKETď&#x161;ź This plein air art market
fills an alley tucked among Frenchmen Streetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famed music halls. From handcrafted jewelery to handmade soaps to folk art, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find an eclectic range of local artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wares. Open Th-Su, 7 pm-1 am. 619 Frenchmen St., 504.941.1149. Map 3, J5
w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 39
THE GUIDE
Entertainment
Battle Grounded
Refresher Course
The Jackson Square statue of Gen. Andrew Jackson astride his horse is a quintessential photo op. But nearby Chalmette Battlefield (p. 40), where Jackson led the final conflict in the War of 1812, is often overlooked. Pay a visit Jan. 6-7 during the annual commemoration of the Battle of New Orleans, when re-enactors conduct cannon and musket firings, along with campfire cooking demos, bringing history to life. A short drive from the French Quarter, the battlefield is also easily accessed via the Creole Queen (p. 42), which docks and disembarks at the site. Park rangers conduct free talks daily at 10:45 am and 2:45 pm, while the visitor center offers interactive exhibits and a video overview.
Tired of staring at the same four walls? Pick up a few new design ideas Jan. 27-29 during the NOLA Home Show at the Convention Center. More than 200 home-improvement experts will be on hand, including Kevin O’Connor (“This Old House,” shown), Matt Blashaw (“Yard Crashers”) and Holly Baker (“Big Easy Reno”). nolahomeshow.com
ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great
Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This
award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. $24.95 adults, $18.95 seniors and $18.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to
insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $19.95 adults, $14.95 seniors, $14.95 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among
the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4
AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than
There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:
space plays host to free fan fests during 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon New Orleans Saints home games and numerous concerts throughout the year. Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. wheretraveler.com $19.95 adults, $14.95 seniors, $14.95 www.champions-square.com. 1500 Poydras ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from St., 504.587.3822. Map 3, B2 St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Opens at 10 CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a am daily; call for closing times. www.audubonlush canopy for this 1,500-acre outdoor oasis, institute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or larger even than New York’s Central Park. www. 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 of the dead” act as windows on the past, offering CRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique view of the insight into local history and customs. St. Louis city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevator, No. 1, just outside the Quarter, is the city’s oldest; and stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade. Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans Stretching from the French Quarter to the Bywater of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number neighborhood, the park offers jogging and biking of her works there. Many are located in high-crime paths, a dog run and picture-perfect picnic areas areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, www.crescentparknola.org. . Map 3, J6 day or night. ENTERGY GIANT SCREEN THEATER Eye-popping CHALMETTE BATTLEFIELD & NATIONAL CEM features are shown on a five-and-a-half-story ETERYJust down the river from where Andrew screen. $10.50 adults, $9.50 seniors, $8 ages 2-12. Jackson’s statue stands in the square that bears Opens at 10 am daily; call for schedule and closhis name is the battlefield where he fought the ing times. Eye-popping features are shown on a last battle of the War of 1812. History buffs can five-and-a-half-story screen. $10.50 adults, $9.50 check out the visitor center, explore Chalmette seniors, $8 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for National Cemetery or relax under the park’s schedule and closing times. www.auduboninstilive oaks. https://www.nps.gov/jela/chalmettetute.org. Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, 1 battlefield.htm. 8606 W St Bernard Hwy., Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 504.281.0510. Map 1, F3 FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market CHAMPIONS SQUAREThis open-air venue, adjadates to pre-colonial days, when the site served cent to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, boasts as a native American trading post. Along with 45,000 sq. ft. and state-of-the-art technology. The homegrown specialties, the market also features a
THE MOLLY MARINE STATUE, erected during World War II at Elk Place and Canal Street, was the first monument in the U.S. to depict a woman in military uniform. 40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
(LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; (RIGHT) ©NOLA HOME SHOW
Attractions & Landmarks
E N T E R TA I N M E N T
number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. French Market Place, 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5
1*"/0 -06/(& t 1"5*0 t 3&45"63"/5
EAT, DRINK &
HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is
located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleansthemed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was
originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur St. at St. Ann St. Map 3, G5 LAFITTE GREENWAYThis 2.6-mile bike and pedes-
trian trail connects Armstrong Park to City Park. The ADA-compliant green corridor, dotted with recreation fields, offers quiet retreat in the heart of the city. www.lafittegreenway.org. . Map 3, F2 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year
long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-
vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS
Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MARKET Part concert hall/
coffee shop/community center, this multifaceted facility throws the spotlight on both the city’s jazz legends and rising stars. phnojm.org. 1436 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.371.5849. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This
pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com. 311 Bourbon St., 504.588.7608. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking
demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com. 524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665. Map 3, F5 OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the
EST. 1933. LOCALLY OWNED WWW.PATOBRIENS.COM
oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 students/military; ages 8 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4
w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 41
THE GUIDE
Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 61-63.
Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................40
Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................42 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 44 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 46 Dance Clubs................................................................................................47 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 47
SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-
dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in
1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. An on-site gift shop offers rosaries, statues and other keepsakes. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-
enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6
Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas
of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides
group city and plantation tours, in addition to private excursions. Hotel pickups available; rates vary. www.celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115. CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative dou-
ble-decker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm. Unlimited sightseeing for up to three days, plus three free walking tours. Adults, $44; children (12 and under), $10. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour
Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and 3-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7
42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
E N T E R TA I N M E N T
CRESCENT CITY BIKE TOURS These three-hour
guided bike rides explore the French Quarter and Tremé neighborhoods, along with Armstrong Park and the Mississippi riverfront. Tours are $49; rentals are $25/day. www.crescentcitybiketours.com. 626 N. Rampart St., 504.322.3455. Map 3, G3 FRENCH QUARTER HISTORY & GHOSTBUSTER TOURSThis company offers a variety of experiences, from cemetery explorations to the Ultimate French Quarter History & Ghostbuster Tour, which
departs nightly at 7:30 pm. Group and customized excursions by request. Call for tour times and availability. www.frenchquarterhistorytours.com. 622 1/2 Pirates Alley, 504.561.8687. Map 3, G4 GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city
tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery.Super City Tour –2 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs. Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.Original Cocktail Tour – 2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour-5.5 hrs. For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans. com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.
prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am, and M-Sa, 1:15 pm, from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 pm
and 7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www.hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727. JEAN LAFITTE HISTORICAL TOURS These National
Park Service walking tours focus on the history of the Mississippi River Delta and depart 9:30 am daily (except Christmas and Mardi Gras). Tickets are free, but there is a 25-person limit per tour; pick up tickets after 9 am (one pass issued per person). www.nps.gov/jela. 419 Decatur St., 504.589.2636. Map 3, F5 NEW ORLEANS LEGENDARY WALKING TOURS
Two-hour tours depart daily from 941 Decatur St.; meet guides 20 to 30 minutes prior to tour time. $25 adults, $15 children. French Quarter & Cemetery Tours –10 am and 1 pm. Ghost Tours –5:30 and 8 pm. www.neworleanslegendarywalkingtours. com. 941 Decatur St., 504.503.0199. Map 3, H5 SAVE OUR CEMETERIES Lafayette No. 1: departs
daily at 10:30 am from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am and Sa-Su at 1 pm from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under. w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 43
THE GUIDE
Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377. STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-
boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These
two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required. All tours depart from 701 Royal Street; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm. For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.
Museums & Exhibits BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a
former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items and photos from second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display. Admission $8; open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. www. backstreetmuseum.org. 1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2 CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM Estab-
lished in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $8 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier
modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also hosts performances. $8; $6 seniors/students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www.cacno.org. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New
Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by apointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www. hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, I4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/
museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by apointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, F4
YOUR EVENT WILL BE CELEBRATED IN HISTORY. H ERMANN- G RIMA H O US E NEW O RL EA NS ’ H IS T O RIC EVENT S ET T ING .
HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove
of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art 44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
820 saint louis street | events@hgghh.org hgghh.org
E N T E R TA I N M E N T
are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10
am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo, Map 3, G4)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History. 1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St., Map 3, G5)– Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St., Map 3, G5)–Built in 1789, this is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave., Map 3, I5)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint. Presbytère (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–Continuing: Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana and Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond. For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968. NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-
ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4-D film Beyond All Boundaries, while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $23 adults, $20 seniors, $14 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. Beyond All Boundaries: an additional $5; “Final Mission”: an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the
South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings. The Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $10 adults, $8 seniors/students, $6 children 7-17, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open daily, 10 am-6 pm; free. www. noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former
apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, 10 am-5 pm. $5 adults, $4 seniors/students, under 6 free. www.pharmacymuseum.org. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most
comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $6.25 children (under 5 free). Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM
Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB, w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 45
THE GUIDE
located in a revamped circa-1849 market, features rotating and permanent exhibits, along with twiceweekly cooking classes. Adults, $10; students/ seniors, $5; children under 12, free. Open Th-M, 11 am-5:30 pm www.southernfood.org. 1507 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3
Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic
cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BARCADIA A bar and arcade in one—get it? Old-
school games (Jenga, skeeball, air hockey) are the draw...along with 30-plus beers on tap. Hungry? Grab a burger or a fried PB&J. barcadianola.com. 601 Tchoupitoulas St, 504.335.1740. Map 3, D6 COURT OF TWO SISTERS CARRIAGEWAY BAR Lo-
cated in a 19th-century French Quarter carriageway, this bar features an picturesque courtyard, fireplace and tons of ambiance. www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE The Quarter’s only
brewpub. Microbrews , nightly live music, local art and sophisticated cuisine make the Brewhouse a winner. www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, F5 CURE This cutting-edge cocktail lounge, housed
in a former fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st. The cocktail menu is also half old fashioned and half modern, making Cure one of the hippest places in town to imbibe and socialize. www.curenola.com. 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3 HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked
inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders and access to the historic eatery’s full menu. Live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4
WIN A TRIP TO NYC
HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play
(the author once stayed here), this Garden District hot spot is located on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel. Modeled after an artist’s loft, the sophisticated space offers creative cocktails and amazing views. www.hottinbar.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1452. Map 1, D3 LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic
cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 NAPOLEON HOUSE Offered to the emperor if
he could escape exile (so the tale goes), this is a legendary French Quarter watering hole. An hour spent enjoying a muffuletta and a Pimm’s Cup in the courtyard is a quintessential N’awlins experience. www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F5 NOLA BREWINGWeekly brewery tours, a mas-
sive tap room and in-house barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. Check out the many seasonal beers, from the spicy Flambeau Red Ale to the summery 7th Street Wheat. www. nolabrewing.com. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4 46 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
Escape for 2 nights/3 days to the city that never sleeps! Win airfare for two, round-trip airport transfer, 2-night stay at the Muse Hotel and more. Also receive two round-trip tickets on Acela Express Business Class service to travel to/from New York City and any other Amtrak Northeast Corridor station. Enter daily through February 28 at wheretraveler.com/contest
E N T E R TA I N M E N T
OLD ABSINTHE HOUSE A favored tavern of such
bon vivants as Oscar Wilde, Mark Twain and Walt Whitman, this historic bar continues to draw absinthe enthusiasts and those thirsty for a taste of authentic New Orleans as it has since 1806. www.oldabsinthehouse.com. 240 Bourbon St., 504.523.3181. Map 3, F4 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,
this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic
cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans. www.therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 WALKON’S Fittingly within walking distance of
the Superdome, this popular game-day gathering ground is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. Looking for a rowdy atmosphere with selfserve taps in which to watch the game? You’ve found it. www.walk-ons.com. 1009 Poydras St., 504.309.6530. Map 3, C3 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR AND GRILL WELCOMES ALL SUGARBOWL FANS TO NEW ORLEANS!
Dance Clubs BOURBON HEAT This massive party palace offers
11 AM - until • 7 Days a Week
two floors, a courtyard, patio bar and balcony, along with laser light shows and first-rate DJs. www.711bourbonheat.com. 711 Bourbon St., 504.324.4669. Map 3, G4 THE BOURBON PUB & PARADE The city’s largest
gay bar and nightclub. Parade, the second-floor danceteria, features techno, house and classic disco. www.bourbonpub.com. 801 Bourbon St., 504.529.2107. Map 3, H4 CAFÉ LAFITTE IN EXILE Billing itself as America’s
oldest gay bar, Lafitte’s creates a party with high-energy music, hi-def plasma video screens and a great balcony on Bourbon Street. All are welcome. www.lafittes.com. 901 Bourbon St., 504.522.8397. Map 3, H4 OZ This two-level disco has top-notch DJs,
lively female impersonators and a mostly gay and gay-friendly crowd up for wee-hours dancing. www.ozneworleans.com. 800 Bourbon St., 504.593.9491. Map 3, H4
Live Entertainment BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue
is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts such as Kermit Ruffins and the Washboard Chaz Trio perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5 CHICKIE WAH WAH This hot venue keeps the
Mid-City music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts. www.chickiewahwah. com. 2828 Canal St., 504.304.4714. Map 1, D3 D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip
features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively wee-hours scene. www.dbaneworleans.com. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5 THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant escape
inside the Ritz-Carlton offering a large selection of classic New Orleans cocktails, along with enterw w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 47
tainment by celebrity trumpeter/crooner Jeremy Davenport. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3 HOUSE OF BLUESï&#x161;¼ The Crescent City branch of this
national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 HOWLINâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; WOLFï&#x161;¼ This locally owned and operated
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landmark has received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s live-music scene, with two stages and performances most nights of the week. www.littlegemsaloon.com. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3
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quintessential Nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3
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ONE EYED JACKSï&#x161;¼ Rockabilly, retro, rock, neo-
burlesque: this French Quarter swank-dive serves it all up in a vintage bordello atmosphere. www.oneeyedjacks.net. 615 Toulouse St., 504.569.8361. Map 3, G4
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since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs â&#x20AC;&#x2122;em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 SNUG HARBORï&#x161;¼ An elegant, intimate mainstay of
Frenchmen Streetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best jazz club by Esquire. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4
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Navigate Making the Connection
General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street. SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you. DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can. SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars. PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency. CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.
Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official
ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels. Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart
There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID). ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car. Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie. BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.
NEW ORLEANS was recently named No. 2 among the “Best Cities in North America”—and No. 7 in the world—by readers of Travel + Leisure magazine. 50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
©SHAWN FINK
It’s one of New Orleans’ biggest attractions, and—at $1.25 a ride—one of its cheapest. The Crescent City’s signature streetcars (p. 50) are a must-do for visitors looking to get off the beaten French Quarter path and explore other parts of the city. In operation since 1835, the St. Charles line offers an ideal vantage for viewing Uptown’s ornate homes and giant oaks. The Canal line travels the street’s full length, with an offshoot to scenic City Park, while the Riverfront line affords river views and access to the lower Quarter. The Loyola line makes getting to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome super-easy, and connects with the new Rampart/St. Claude line (shown), which covers the upper Quarter corridor from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian Fields. All aboard!
N A V I G AT E
Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.
Index General Information........................................................................... 50 Nearby Destinations............................................................................51 Cajun Country...........................................................................................51 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 51 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 51 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................51 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................51 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 51 Transportation ....................................................................................... 50
TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,
particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater. Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102). WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-
ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.
Neighborhoods BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian
shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters and a growing number of popular eateries. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center
of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5 CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial
corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or
Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military
outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-
est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes, one-story bunga-
lows and other modern styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residental shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one
of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the
banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as
Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district. Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest
African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE ARTS DISTRICT This “Southern
SoHo” adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts. Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-
nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communities, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego. English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4
Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often
think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history
and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory; tours are available of the factory, as well as of the adjoining Jungle Gardens and Bird City. www.lafayettetravel.com. JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from
New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes. Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net. LAFOURCHE PARISH Founded in 1807, Lafourche
was one of the Louisiana’s original parishes when it became a state in 1812. Situated along Bayou Lafourche, which extends to the Gulf of Mexico, the area is rich in fish and wildlife, making it an ideal location for early Acadian settlers. The Jean Lafitte National Park Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center in Thibodaux, the parish seat, offers insight into Cajun life, while swamp tours provide an upclose look local flora and fauna. Thibodaux is also home to the Laurel Village Sugar Plantation and Museum (the largest surviving 19th–century sugar plantation in the U.S.) and Nicholls State University (aka “Harvard on the Bayou”). www.visitlafourche. com. 985.537.5800. ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across lake
Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com . TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about
an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time, cher. www. houmatravel.com. 800.688.2732. w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 51
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THE GUIDE
Plantation Country Retro Romance Destination weddings take on whole new meaning along historic River Road, where bridal parties don’t just travel to another time zone, but to an entirely different era. Most plantations offer wedding packages, from elaborate affairs to simple ceremonies. At Destrehan, for example, vows are exchanged in a rustic 1830s mule barn, while Nottoway (shown), with its exquisite all-white ballroom, full-service salon and on-site honeymoon suite, is more refined. At Oak Alley couples gather beneath a picturesque canopy of 300-year-old oaks to say their “I dos.” Houmas House, with its 38 acres of lush gardens and varied venues (from the pristine Grand Lawn to the Asianinspired Tea House), can conduct multiple ceremonies at once, helping secure its placement among The Knot’s list of the nation’s best wedding facilities.
DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from
New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $18 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under. Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095. EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek
Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation. Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org. 4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837. HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS
Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.
There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:
OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African fold Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $20 adults, $7.50 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $4.50 ages 6-12. Group rates availby Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are able. www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, offered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property. Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org. 985.369.7151. 406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553. NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-
signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg. 12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.
SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,
built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under. Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-
RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the CIvil War; today only a handful remain. 58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
©NOTTOWAY PLANTATION
Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans
LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This
P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y
Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details. This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.
Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 58 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 58 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 59 Dining........................................................................................................... 60
franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756. ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect
Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877. The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $18 adults, $16 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com. 3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078. WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the
public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.
Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of
an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773. BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained
by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast. Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312. COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most
complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 59
THE GUIDE
main house is composed of a series of connected buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings. B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674. GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned
Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475. MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most
haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277. NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White
Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John
James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739. ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home
features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332. RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden
Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.
Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of
the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The 60 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.
PLANTATION TOUR S
CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers
casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce
piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451. THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed
New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a
former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921. Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are of- fered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldson- ville, La., 225.473.8236.. GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art
gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463. LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-
tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant
offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring
Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite? Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.
One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.
Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans
FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095
or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org
THE GUIDE | MAPS
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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 2 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 3 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 4 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 t S Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 in e RH a v OC Omni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 Sp hA AveOmni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 OO c n i l o kPL n R a Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 Fr St PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 7 Street Direction SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 French Quarter WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 E4 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 Jazzy Passes WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4
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K w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 63
[WHERE INSIDE]
New Orleans Your Way
History Buff
Sports Fan
Music Lover
The crumbling walls at the (1) Napoleon House reflect its old age. Built in the early 19th century, it was offered as safe haven for the emperor once he came out of exile, though it never happened. Instead it became a fabled restaurant and bar, known for its warm muffulettas and icy Pimm’s Cups. With its numerous French Quarter properties, free exhibits and hundreds of rare holdings, the (2) Historic New Orleans Collection is the perfect place to immerse yourself in the Crescent City’s 300-year backstory. (3) Antoine’s has been the standard bearer of local culinary traditions for 176 years. The nation’s longest-operating, family-run restaurant has fed everyone from Calvin Coolidge to Whoopi Goldberg with such signature dishes as oysters Rockefeller, which was invented there.
The (1) Mercedes Benz-Superdome, the world’s largest steel-constructed stadium unobstructed by posts, clocks in at 13 acres and 27 stories. The National Historic Landmark has hosted seven Super Bowls, five Men’s Final Fours, four BCS National Championships, the Pro Bowl and 41 Sugar Bowls, along with the legendary Ali-Spinks “September to Remember” bout. On the opposite side of the Dome is the (2) Smoothie King Center, the New Orleans Pelicans’ roost, where two NBA All-Star games have played out and another takes place Feb. 19. Where to celebrate after the game? Even if you’re not a sports buff, you’ll still stumble upon a good time along (3) Bourbon Street. Just remember, it’s not whether you win or lose … but how you handle your Hurricanes.
The aptly named, oft-overlooked (1) New Orleans Musical Legends Park features life-size depictions of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain, Fats Domino, Allen Toussaint and other local greats, with free live jazz performed throughout the day. Want to hear more? Toss a few coins in the fountain to benefit the music education of French Quarter elementary students. Or swing by (2) Louisiana Music Factory, which claims the world’s largest selection of New Orleans recordings, and rummage the racks while catching a live, in-store performance. In a city of memorable moments, a night at the (3) Maple Leaf Bar is one you won’t soon forget. Tuesdays are the big to-do, with the Grammy-winning Rebirth Brass Band taking the stage at 11 pm and playing way into the wee hours.
64 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2017
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UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS.
Plantation and Gardens This holiday season is the perfect time to visit Houmas House Plantation and Gardens. Take a spectacular tour of the original plantation house built in the 1770s, decorated with Christmas cheer. Stroll through 16 acres of breathtaking gardens. Find the perfect presents for loved ones at the gift shop and dine at Houmas Houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exquisite restaurants. You can also stay overnight in a luxurious room at The Inn at Houmas House. Plan your memorable trip today!
Houmas House Plantation and Gardens '( ) ##"' ) ) ''' "& $ "&$ "
VISIT THE HISTORIC GRAND DAME RESTAURANT AND COURTYARD
VALE PARK T ING NO W AVA ILABL
Sunday Brunch! 819 RUE CONTI
E
J O I N U S F O R O U R FA M O U S J A Z Z B R U N C H E V E RY S U N D AY F R O M 1 0 : 3 0 A M - 2 : 3 0 P M I N C L U D I N G BOTTOMLESS MIMOSAS AND CLASSIC CREOLE FARE.
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