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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE
SCHOOL OF ROCK
Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical makes the grade
HAVE A BLAST!
Watch London light up with firework displays
TILDA SWINTON PRINCESS DIANA
Tower of London Thanksgiving meals Male grooming
& KATE MOSS
A CUT ABOVE THE REST
Sam McKnight, hair stylist to the stars, speaks to us about his exhibition at Somerset House
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Contents See more of London at wheretraveler.com/london
NO V EMBER 2 0 16 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE
SCHOOL OF ROCK
Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical makes the grade
HAVE A BLAST!
Watch London light up with firework displays
TILDA SWINTON PRINCESS DIANA
Tower of London Thanksgiving meals Male grooming
& KATE MOSS
A CUT ABOVE THE REST
Sam McKnight, hair stylist to the stars, speaks to us about his exhibition at Somerset House
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
WL NOV 2016 COVER2.indd 1
ON THE COVER
Sam McKnight’s exhibition Hair by Sam McKnight opens at Somerset House. Tilda Swinton shot for Vogue Italia, February 2003 © Craig McDean courtesy of Art + Commerce
34 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES As The Design Museum reopens following an £83million makeover, we take a look at its groundbreaking new home in Kensington. 40 ENTERTAINMENT Enjoy a night of rock and roll with Andrew Lloyd Webber’s new musical, School of Rock. 50 SHOPPING Head to the OXO Tower on the South Bank for Europe’s biggest contemporary jewellery exhibition, Dazzle London.
Best of the month 18 HAPPY BIRTHDAY, WHERE!
6 WHERE NOW This month’s big events, from Andy Murray playing tennis at the ATP Masters to Rod Stewart performing at The O2 arena.
As Where Worldwide celebrates 80 years, we look at the magazine’s history and offer 80-minute area guides.
10 MAKING THE CUT
20 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE Advent calendars, including ones for chocoholics, fashionistas and pets.
Sam McKnight, hair stylist to the stars, talks to us about models and royalty.
14 LIGHT UP THE SKY A guide to the city’s firework displays.
74 MY LONDON 20
Composer Guy Barker MBE’s hot spots.
REcoMMENdEd by yoUR coNcIERgE
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FIREWORKS © ISTOCK; FREDERIC LEIGHTON’S FLAMING JUNE © MUSEO DE ARTE DE PONCE; SCHOOL OF ROCK © MATTHEW MURPHY; PUMPKIN PIE COURTESY OF CHRISTOPHER’S; ADVENT CALENDAR COURTESY OF JOHN LEWIS
22 SIGHTSEEING Get immersed in the interactive experience Nightwatchers at the Tower of London.
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THE WHERE PASS The all-new Where Pass makes experiencing London hassle-free. Incorporating the latest in contactless debit card technology, users of the Where Pass are able to travel around using the public transport system and gain discounted entry into top attractions. www.wherepasslondon.com
54 DINING Celebrate Thanksgiving in London – there are plenty of restaurants offering the season’s staples, from delicious pumpkin pie to slowroasted turkey. 64 NIGHTLIFE Life is a cabaret! Visit London Cabaret Club’s Best of British Pop, which celebrates musicians including The Beatles, David Bowie and Adele. 68 SPAS & SALONS As Movember begins, we round up the best places to go for beard treatments, from the 125-year-old Pall Mall Barbers to Murdock in Soho. 70 ESSENTIALS James Elliott, Head Concierge at London Marriott County Hall, shares his tips on the city. 72 MAPS A useful map of central London. w w w.where t r ave l e r. c o m 3
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Where London 2-3pg 10-10-16_Layout 1 11/10/2016 17:26 Page 1 IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936
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Strike a pose When we found out that hairdresser Sam McKnight was staging an exhibition at Somerset House, we knew we had to talk to him and put one of his striking hairstyles on our cover. As Sam was busy in the run-up to London Fashion Week, the interview was rescheduled three times. While fashion has a reputation for being pretentious, when we interviewed him, he couldn’t have been more down to earth. He spoke candidly to us about working with icons, from Tilda Swinton and Kate Moss to Princess Diana (p. 10). You may have heard the children’s rhyme ‘remember, remember the fifth of November’. Each year the sky lights up with fireworks to mark Guy Fawkes’ failed Gunpowder Plot, in which he attempted to blow up the Houses of Parliament and King James I. Use our Bonfire Night guide to find a firework display near you (p. 14). And while it may only be November, it’s hard not to notice the city getting more festive. Advent calendars are not just for kids – we’ve rounded up ones with high-end beauty products, luxury chocolates and treats for pets (p. 20). Happy birthday to us! Where celebrates its 80th year, and has magazines across the globe in 88 cities, from Berlin to New York. Read about the history of our magazine (p. 18), and use our 80-minute itineraries to help you make the most of London if you have only a short amount of time. Have fun!
KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London
CONCIERGE AWARDS © CHLOE CREWE-READ
Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: Where London
Above: 2016 Concierge Awards w w w.where t r ave l e r. c o m 5
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NOW Be dazzled by November in London, from the pomp and pageantry of the Lord Mayor’s Festival to Andy Murray playing tennis
LORD MAYOR’S SHOW SATURDAY 12 NOVEMBER
It’s not every day that you see a 359-year-old gilded carriage parade through London, so don’t miss your chance during the Lord Mayor’s Show. It begins with a river pageant from Tower Bridge at around 9am. A procession of horses, bands and vintage cars follows overland from Mansion House at 11am, which also includes Penny-Farthings, robots and the state coach. It passes St Paul’s Cathedral and the Royal Courts of Justice, runs along Embankment and comes full circle at 2pm. There’s a firework finale at 5.15pm between Blackfriars and Waterloo bridges. www.lordmayorsshow.london
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lord mayor’s show © C Totman; remembrance sunday © istock; down street courtesy of london transport museum; william bell © David McClister; Five Girls 2014 by David Stewart © David Stewart
hidden london from thursday 24 november
Until 1932, Down Street was just another stop on the Piccadilly line. During the Blitz it became a bunker for Winston Churchill, complete with offices, dorms, showers and tunnels for secret meetings with his War Cabinet. Book a visit to the disused Tube station in a new tour by Hidden London with the London Transport Museum. www.ltmuseum.co.uk
REMEMBRANCE SUNDAY sunday 13 november
Join the Queen, leading politicians and the armed forces at the annual National Service of Remembrance, which commemorates fallen servicemen and women who have fought during the two World Wars and conflicts since then. Arrive at 8am to catch the ceremony at the Cenotaph on Whitehall. www.visitlondon.com
EFG LONDON JAZZ FESTIVAL FRIDAY 11-sunday 20 november
New Orleans might be the home of jazz, but for 10 days this month it is London! The EFG London Jazz Festival features 2,000 artists performing in 50 venues. Highlights include a 42-piece orchestra and the legendary singer William Bell (below). www.efglondonjazzfestival.com
TAYLOR WESSING PHOTOGRAPHIC PORTRAIT PRIZE from thursday 17 NOVember
Actor Benedict Cumberbatch and the outgoing American President Barack Obama, with First Lady Michelle Obama, are among the subjects in this year’s Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize, exhibited at the National Portrait Gallery. It’s not all famous faces, though – last year’s winning image (above) was of the photographer’s daughter sitting with four friends. www.npg.org.uk
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regent street motor show saturday 5 november
Ladies and gentlemen, start your engines! As the Regent Street Motor Show takes over the famous shopping street, you can admire vintage cars, futuristic motors and motorbike stunts. The street will be pedestrianised for the day so you can also try out simulators and sit in the driving seat of the world’s fastest cars. West End Kids will be performing, too. www.regentstreetmotorshow.com
GOLDEN AGE OF DANCE sunday 13 NOVember
TV presenter and performer Russell Grant will host the Golden Age of Dance at Theatre Royal, Drury Lane, with the help of The Novello Orchestra (left). The dance moves of Fred Astaire, Ginger Rogers and Judy Garland will be recreated alongside classic songs from the musicals Top Hat, Singin’ in the Rain, Easter Parade, Kiss Me Kate and many more. www.reallyusefultheatres.co.uk
BARCLAYS ATP WORLD TOUR FINALS sunday 13-sunday 20 november
Watch some of the world’s top players compete at The O2 arena. It’s good news for British fans, as current Wimbledon and Olympic champion Andy Murray (right) has qualified again. World number one Novak Djokovic is the current holder of the ATP trophy. ‘I love playing at The O2 in front of a home crowd. The support is always amazing and it’s a great tournament,’ says Murray. www.barclaysatp worldtourfinals.com
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
Indie pop band Bastille is rocking the iconic O2 arena tonight
Pictures from Punch opens today at The Cartoon Museum (p. 35) Emma Hamilton: Seduction and Celebrity begins at National Maritime Museum (p. 36) The exhibition Maps and the 20th Century begins at The British Library (p. 26) Watch the night sky light up with fireworks this Bonfire Night (p. 14) The exhibition Colour and Vision closes at the Natural History Museum (p. 36) On your marks! Cheer on the participants in the London Triathlon in the Docklands What’s new, pussycat? Cats: The Musical opens at the New Wimbledon Theatre Climb the tallest building in Western Europe, The View from The Shard (p. 29) Sir Elton John’s modernist photo collection goes on display at Tate Modern (p. 36) The EFG London Jazz Festival, which starts today, hits all the right notes (p. 7) Let him entertain you! Kenneth Branagh takes his final bow as The Entertainer (p. 46) Remembrance Sunday commemorates those who fought in conflicts (p. 7) Sixty two rounds are fired for Prince Charles’ birthday at Tower of London (p. 29) Mark Rylance stars in Nice Fish, which opens tonight in the West End (p. 42)
Trade, which tells the story about the costs of sex, begins today at the Young Vic The Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize begins today (p. 7) Hyde Park Winter Wonderland, which is now in its 10th year, opens (p. 48) Be dazzled by Dreamgirls, which begins tonight at the Savoy Theatre (p. 44) Watch tennis superstars at the Barclays ATP World Tour Finals at The O2 arena Enjoy a 360-degree view of London on the Coca-Coca London Eye (p. 28) Get into the festive spirit as Christmas Past opens at The Geffrye Museum (p. 36) Celebrate the magic of The Nutcracker as it starts at the Royal Opera House (p. 47)
Fear and Love: Reactions to a Complex World opens at The Design Museum (p. 34) Once in a Lifetime, about 1930s Hollywood, starts at the Young Vic The legend that is Rod Stewart performs tonight at The O2 arena Katie Melua sings her heart out at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane Hop on board an old bus at the London Transport Museum (p. 36) Join the Beliebers and watch Justin Bieber at The O2 arena Celebrate St Andrew’s Day, which marks the patron saint of Scotland (p. 49)
Search for more ideas at wheretraveler.com
bike courtesy of regent street motor show; the novello orchestra courtesy of golden age of dance; andy murray © TPN
Where now | calendar
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WHERE NOW | SAM MCKNIGHT
Sam Rogg interviews Sam McKnight on styling the hair of icons, from Kate Moss to Princess Diana
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SAM MCKNIGHT © JASON LLOYD-EVANS; KARLIE KLOSS © PATRICK DEMARCHELIER; TILDA SWINTON © CRAIG MCDEAN; PRINCESS DIANA © GETTY
KATE MOSS BY NICK KNIGHT, VOGUE UK, SEPTEMBER 2000 COURTESY OF NICK KNIGHT
he first thing someone says to me when they find out I’m a hairdresser is “where’s your salon?”’ says Sam McKnight. ‘“I don’t work in a salon,” I explain.’ It may seem odd that the world’s most soughtafter hairdresser is without a base where he can be booked for a cut and blow-dry (sorry to disappoint you), but for Scottish-born McKnight, the appeal of hairdressing is tangled up in the heady world of fashion. In fact, until this autumn, few outside the fashion world had heard of the master hairstylist, despite his former role as Princess Diana’s hairdresser. He is also credited with developing the images of icons such as Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista over the years. Now, he’s set to become the name on everyone’s lips with a dazzling exhibition at Somerset House celebrating his extraordinary 40-year career and longstanding collaborations with fashion heavyweights like Patrick Demarchelier, Nick Knight, Mario Testino and Karl Lagerfeld, to name a few. Curated by Shonagh Marshall and designed by acclaimed art director Michael Howells, Hair by Sam McKnight showcases a staggering array of photographs, wigs, magazines and behind-the-scenes footage to shine a light on the little-known creative process that goes into producing the world’s biggest fashion shows, shoots and campaigns. You may not have heard of him, but you’ll recognise his work. He’s the man behind Princess Diana’s slicked-back crop, Madonna’s Bedtime Stories album sleeve and hundreds of Vogue covers, not to mention campaigns for Givenchy, YSL, Louis Vuitton and Marni. As if that’s not enough, he’s set to release his first book this month (of the same name as the exhibition). It’s enough to inflate anyone’s ego, but as we found out when we caught up with him, McKnight is a cut above the rest.
SAM MCKNIGHT © JASON LLOYD-EVANS; KARLIE KLOSS © PATRICK DEMARCHELIER; TILDA SWINTON © CRAIG MCDEAN; PRINCESS DIANA © GETTY
KATE MOSS BY NICK KNIGHT, VOGUE UK, SEPTEMBER 2000 COURTESY OF NICK KNIGHT
You’ve been an integral part of the fashion industry for 40 years. How does it feel to have an exhibition about your career? Daunting. It’s not something I sought out. Somerset House very kindly approached me about doing an exhibition and I thought: ‘Really? We have an audience for that?’ And they seemed to think we do. When I saw the context they were going to put it in, I agreed. It’s quite an honour. The whole team has been fantastic. It’s been a real pleasure. It’s nice to be able to highlight the hairdressing industry because I’m not from a salon background. I hope this show is a way of explaining what we do and encouraging young people to be interested in our craft. And not just hairdressers – it’s a very high fashion-led exhibition. I’m hoping young budding stylists and fashionistas will be interested in this. Then again, everyone is interested in fashion, so I hope it has a broad appeal. You’re behind some iconic looks and magazine covers. What inspires you as a hairstylist? I’ve been lucky enough to work with incredible people. I do shows for designers such as Chanel, Balmain, Fendi and Tom Ford, so I’m very lucky to be surrounded by amazing creative people to bounce off. When you’re in a room doing a fitting for a show or for a magazine, then you have this collaboration of wonderfully inspiring people. So whether the inspiration comes from retro pictures from a movie or artists, or even the colours in my garden, if your eyes are open, then the inspiration is there all the time. You’re originally from Scotland. What attracted you to London in the 1970s? I’m from an isolated little village in the hills of Scotland and I came to London on holiday
when I was 17 or 18 – and I’d never been in a big city. I didn’t even know Glasgow very well, so London just blew me away. It was full of people who either looked like they’d just walked out of Biba [the famous London fashion store] or a David Bowie concert. It was bright and colourful and it had a raw glamour to it, and I loved that. How did you get your first big break here? I started out working in Elizabeth Arden and Miss Selfridge – both had hair salons in those days. Then I got a job at Molton Brown and at that time it was the cool salon in London. A few months into the job, one of the stylists either got sick or there was a booking error, so I was sent to do his job for Vogue magazine. In at the deep end! I guess I did an OK job. That was in 1977 or 1978, so I’ve had almost a 40-year career with Vogue. What’s been the most memorable moment of your career? Too many, and they’re still coming thick and fast. But I guess the one that’s rooted in me is travelling to incredible places around the world, like the Taj Mahal with Princess Diana – that’s something that happens because of what I do for a living. I would never have access to anything like that if I didn’t have this job. What was it like working with Princess Diana for seven years when her style was evolving? I started working with Diana in 1990. She was getting Versace to design her suits – those beautiful pastel-coloured ones – and she had short hair. After her divorce I guess she was growing up and becoming her own person – she was blossoming. It was really exciting
Clockwise from main image: Kate Moss, Sam McKnight, Karlie Kloss, Tilda Swinton, Princess Diana
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Where now | SAM MCKNIGHT I think she made wigs an accessory – so that, even if it looks like a wig, it doesn’t matter. Wigs are the new hats, and it’s thanks to her. [British milliner] Stephen Jones won’t be happy I’m saying that! How is London style different to other cities? It’s more chilled and easy going – it doesn’t take itself too seriously.
to be working with her at that time. My greatest memory of her is that we laughed a lot. She could be very, very funny, and she could be very serious, too. I used to think that she was a natural sort of nurse – she had that quality that nurses have of making people feel completely at ease. She would disarm people so that they weren’t at all intimidated by her from the word go – which gave her an incredible power. She never abused that power. She was a wonderful person. You’ve been described as Kate Moss’ ‘go-to hairstylist’. What’s it like to work with a fashion icon like her? Well, she’s not really ‘Kate Moss the icon’ to me – she’s just the lovely Kate Moss I’ve known since she was 17 years old. So that’s still the same. I don’t have that icon image of her in my head – Kate is just Kate and she’s gorgeous and she’s lovely and she’s the best model that’s ever existed. She’s a chameleon and she genuinely loves her job; she loves all the [hair] changes. That’s her role and she does it well. She always brings a lot to the day and whatever she’s doing.
If you could style anyone you haven’t worked with yet, who would it be? I think the Queen, don’t you? It would be great to give her a new look – I think I’d soften her hair a little bit, just make her more relaxed, or would that not be the Queen any more? I’d like to take that risk. You caused a sensation at Balmain’s AW 2016 show when you changed Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid’s hair colour. Do you think wigs will become mainstream? Yes, I think they already are. If you go into Selfridges, there’s a massive counter selling wigs. I’ve worked a lot with Lady Gaga and
Where should people go for a good haircut? You have to find a hairdresser that you get along with. John Frieda, Daniel Hersheson and Daniel Galvin would be my top three salons in London. We hear you’re a bit of a green thumb. What are your favourite gardens in London? I love Regent’s Park’s rose garden and the herbaceous borders. Before I had a garden, I used to spend my evenings there, sitting in a deckchair and reading a book after work. It’s just so British and old school – it’s very peaceful and right in the middle of London. Tell us about your new book, Hair by Sam McKnight, which accompanies the show. It’s a 40-year history of hair and fashion, including magazine covers, beauty and celebrity shots. It’s a collection of pictures where I found the hair interesting, and the whole image had something to say. It’s my story and Somerset House thinks people will be interested in it, so let’s hope they are! Hair by Sam McKnight. From 2 Nov. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 1LA. Somerset House will be opening late on Wed, Thur and Fri until 8pm
chic shows 1920s JAZZ AGE – FASHION & PHOTOGRAPHS
UNDRESSED: A BRIEF HISTORY OF UNDERWEAR
Is there anything more glamorous than 1920s fashion, with its fringed flapper dresses, beaded eveningwear, silk pyjamas and velvet capes? You can see more than 150 garments at the Fashion and Textile Museum, including haute couture clothing, and glimpse the excesses of the Roaring Twenties through photographs by Man Ray and Cecil Beaton. To 15 Jan. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF
Prepare to blush as the Victoria and Albert Museum peels back layers of history to reveal the story of underwear. Expect Victorian maternity wear, risqué designer garments and slimming tools, from corsets to Spanx. Discover how designers such as Paul Poiret argued for the beauty of the natural body, responding to issues of gender and health. To 12 Mar. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL
THE VULGAR: FASHION REDEFINED Bohemian, goth, glamorous, preppy... When it comes to fashion, it’s all a question of taste. The Barbican’s exhibition explores the compelling territory of taste through the ages, from the Renaissance through to the present day. Feast your eyes on more than 120 exhibits including historical costumes, couture and ready-to-wear looks by Chloé, Christian Dior, Prada, Louis Vuitton and Vivienne Westwood. To 5 Feb. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS
Giselle BündcheN © Alexei Hay, Trunk Archive; sam mcknight, jesse the chimp and linda evangelista © Laspata Decaro
Top to bottom: Giselle Bündchen; Sam McKnight, Jesse the chimp and Linda Evangelista
What are the big hair trends for 2017? Individuality. That’s a big trend right now – it’s about embracing what you’ve got and making the best version of yourself, rather than trying to fight it. With modern products and technology, you can change your hair daily and temporarily, without doing too much damage.
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Where now | BONFIRE NIGHT
ondon will explode with colour on requesting ‘a penny for the guy’ – although the fifth of November as fireworks these days a fiver is more likely. The effigy burst across the night sky – and is then hurled on top of a bonfire as fireworks it’s all down to a man called Guy light up the sky. Be part of history and catch Fawkes. The British tradition of a display during your visit. Wrap up warm and Bonfire Night dates back to 1605, when head to one of these outdoor shows. the Catholic conspirator attempted to blow up King James I and the Alexandra Palace Houses of Parliament with This is more than just a fireworks barrels of gunpowder. display – it’s a full-on festival, set He was caught red-handed on a hill overlooking the capital, but jumped from the scaffold, with more than 50,000 people where he was to be hanged, expected to attend. Try to arrive then broke his neck and died, early to make the most of the which meant he avoided being live bands and DJs from Club hanged, drawn and quartered. de Fromage, as well as David Oddly, his failed plot has been Bowie and Queen tributes at Guy Fawkes celebrated across the country the German Beer Festival, where on this day ever since. Bavarian waitresses will be serving craft and Traditionally, children make Guy Fawkes German beers. Another highlight is the day effigies – models stuffed with newspaper like of the dead parade – a carnival of snakes, a scarecrow – then collect coins for their skeletons and fire dancers jigging to the beat efforts. In the past, they could be heard of the 20-piece Drum Machine band. If that
whets your appetite, there will be 40 drink and street food stalls. There is a huge bonfire and a laser show, too, as well as fireworks. On the Friday, the gates open at 4pm ready for the display at 9pm, while on the Saturday the gates open at 3pm for an 8pm start. Fri 4 Nov and Sat 5 Nov. Adult from £7; child from £5. Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. www.fireworks.london
Battersea Park This annual display is set to music by legendary stars and is hosted by Christian Williams, a presenter for Virgin Radio UK. The gates open for food, drink and entertainment at 6pm and close at 8pm, 10 minutes before the firework display starts. Tickets must be pre-booked from the website. Sat 5 Nov. £10. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. www.enablelc.org/fireworks
Blackheath This beautiful open space atop a hill is the perfect location for a firework display. Go early and warm up over a traditional British meal at Blackheath Fish & Chips, opposite the station, then stroll with the masses to the public viewing spots, which are south of Shooters Hill Road. Against the backdrop of the fireworks, you can see the majestic All Saints’ Church. A funfair begins at noon, a bar and food stalls open at 5pm, and the display starts at 8pm. While the event is free, donations are appreciated. Sat 5 Nov. Free. Blackheath Common, Prince Charles Rd, SE3 0RX. www.lewisham.gov.uk
fireworks and guy fawkes illustration © istock
Remember, remember the fifth of November, says Sarah Riches, when London goes off with a bang!
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Where now | BONFIRE NIGHT Crystal Palace Park Crystal Palace Park’s first firework display – a competition between British firework makers – took place on 12 July 1865, attracting 20,000 spectators. Regular shows were staged in the park until 1936. At this year’s event there will be a firework display, food and drink stalls and stalls where you can buy novelty glow sticks. Gates open at 6pm, there’s a children’s show at 7pm, last entry is at 8.15pm and the main display begins at 8.30pm. You must pre-book from the website. Sat 5 Nov. Adult £6.50; child £4.50; plus a booking fee. Thicket Rd, SE19 2GA. www.crystalpalacefireworks.co.uk
Morden Morden has two displays: the gates open at 5.15pm. The first show, which is suitable for Victoria Park young children, starts at 6.45pm (bonfires lit If previous years are anything to go by, at 6.30pm), while the second show starts at 8.30pm (bonfires lit at 8.15pm). A funfair and this firework display will have a bonfire, themed soundtrack, food and drink stalls food and drink stalls are open until 10pm. and perhaps even a giant robot strolling The display will take place in the centre around the grounds... of the park, which can be accessed Sun 6 Nov. 7pm. Free. from entrances on London Road, Grove Rd, E3 5TB. Lower Morden Lane and www.towerhamlets Hillcross Avenue. You must St Peter’s School in arts.org.uk pre-book from the website. York, which Guy Sat 5 Nov. Adult £8; Fawkes attended, child £6. Morden Park, Wanstead still refuses to burn London Rd, SM4 5QX. After last year’s firework effigies of its www.merton.gov.uk display was cancelled due
Wimbledon Gates open at 5.15pm as this park has two displays. The first, themed around magic, is suitable for young children and starts at 6.45pm. The second show, meanwhile, is themed on ‘all around the world’ and starts at 8.30pm (bonfires lit at 8.15pm). A funfair and food and drink stalls are open until 10pm. Thur 3 Nov. £10. Wimbledon Park, SW19 7HX (near the athletics track). www.merton.gov.uk Note: at many of the events you cannot bring fireworks, sparklers, glass bottles and alcohol
Primrose Hill While this isn’t an official show, Primrose Hill is a great vantage point from which to see fireworks across the city for free. There are no facilities or food or drink stalls, so take a hot chocolate to keep you cosy. Go at 7pm. Thur 5 Nov. Free. Primrose Hill, NW1
to low-lying fog, this year’s event will no doubt be a show to remember – especially as it’s choreographed to music. Gates will open at 5.30pm, while the firework display will begin at 6.30pm. Sat 5 Nov. Free. Wanstead Flats, E11 3SE and Dames Rd, E7 0EB. www.newham.gov.uk Alexandra Palace
images © istock
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TH E J OY O F GIV ING
F L A G S H I P M A R B L E A R C H - O X F O R D C I R C U S - C OV E N T G A R D E N - CA NA RY W H A R F K I N G S R O A D - O N E N E W C H A N G E S H O P P I N G C E N T R E - B I C E S T E R V I L L AG E W E S T F I E L D L O N D O N - W E S T F I E L D S T R AT F O R D
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WHERE NOW | WHERE ANNIVERSARY
And this year, we join our sister titles around the globe to raise a glass to another historic anniversary. Eighty years old and remaining in sterling health is quite an achievement in a world that continues to evolve at an ever-dizzying pace. With wheretraveler.com providing the planning and digital support for our readers’ journeys for business or pleasure, our huge global
portfolio of magazines and maps remains an essential service for hotel guests when they arrive at their destination. Our concierge partners promote the Where portfolio and help us shape the publications, so that information is timely, reliable and inspirational whether it’s for the guest arriving in the city for the first time or on a return visit. The feedback we receive from visitors and our partners in hotels and the city’s marketing authorities continues to inspire us. So take further inspiration from our talented journalists and join them on these special itineraries, designed to give you a brief flavour of some of the great things London has to offer. These memorable plans will take just 80 minutes of your time but are here to help you celebrate our lifetime. We thank you for sharing it with us.
the London Philharmonic Orchestra (1, 5, 9 & 30 Nov) and Marina Abramović (7 Nov). Ponder the graffiti-clad Undercroft beneath the centre, where crowds watch skateboarders practice. Carry on to the National Theatre, then head to the Sherling High-Level Walkway to see sets created. Further along, you’ll come to the OXO Tower, home to boutiques and the OXO Restaurant, Bar & Brasserie with its terrace and views – perfect for retail therapy and drinks. Pass under Blackfriars Bridge and you’ll see the expanded Tate Modern gallery on your right. Join a free guided tour of the permanent collection. Carry on into Borough Market, where you can revive yourself with some gourmet street food – we recommend La Tua Pasta and Brindisa’s queue-worthy chorizo buns.
IN SOUTH BANK
Clockwise from top: Vintage Where magazines; Covent Garden Market; ballet at the Royal Opera House; Cahoots; Liberty; Coca-Cola London Eye; Borough Market
BY SAM ROGG Begin at Westminster Bridge (painted green to match the benches inside the House of Commons) and make your way east, past the SEA LIFE London Aquarium and The London Dungeon. Stop to marvel at the Coca-Cola London Eye, which rises 135m into the sky and has 32 capsules to represent the number of boroughs in the city. Model Kate Moss likes it so much she’s been on it 25 times! Continue on to the largest single-run arts centre in the world, the Southbank Centre, which was built in 1951 for the Festival of Britain. Pass through the Grade I-listed Royal Festival Hall, where you can find world-class performances by
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COVENT GARDEN MARKET COURTESY OF JAMIE OLIVER AND COVENT GARDEN MARKET;
here’s not much you would recognise from the world 80 years ago, but the motivation behind the launch of the world’s largest provider of visitor information proves as compelling today as it was back then. Simply put, Where strives to be the authority for people who are in a town that is not their home. Since 1936, that ambition has spread across all corners of the globe, with Where magazines now published in cities from Sydney and Seattle to Paris and Phoenix. In London, Where has been in residence since 1975, and just 12 months ago we celebrated that important milestone with our most successful year yet. Our great city now boasts more hotel rooms and more visitors to stay in them than ever before.
COCA-COLA LONDON EYE AND BOROUGH MARKET © VISIT ENGLAND
As Where celebrates its 80th year, with magazines in 88 cities across the globe, from Paris to New York, London publishing director Mark Elliott looks back at eight glorious decades
IN COVENT GARDEN
BY SARAH RICHES Begin your tour by browsing Covent Garden Market, which dates back to 1654. Originally a fruit and vegetable market, the covered arcade is now lined with stalls selling hand-crafted souvenirs such as jewellery made from old cutlery and framed watercolours of London. The Jubilee Market sells antiques on Mondays; clothes, food and presents from Tuesday to Friday and crafts at the weekend. In the courtyard of the market’s lower ground floor, you can watch free performances of classical music and opera. Stroll into the cobbled square outside the market and no doubt you’ll see jugglers, hula-hoopers, escapologists and other street entertainers, while on nearby James Street, by the Tube, there are living statues, mime artists and classical musicians. The rather grand Royal Opera House is just around the corner – this month’s highlights include the Royal Ballet’s Anastasia (to 12 Nov) COVENT GARDEN MARKET COURTESY OF JAMIE OLIVER AND COVENT GARDEN MARKET; ROYAL OPERA HOUSE PERFORMANCE © JOHAN PERSSON; CAHOOTS © LARRY J PHOTOGRAPHY; LIBERTY © MELVYNVINCENT.COM
COCA-COLA LONDON EYE AND BOROUGH MARKET © VISIT ENGLAND
IN CARNABY STREET
BY KOHINOOR SAHOTA Walk south of Oxford Circus and you’ll stand at the epicentre of the Swinging Sixties. Carnaby Street is still loved for it: film spy Austin Powers had his ‘pad’ here, and when the Simpsons visited London, Bart and Lisa came here to buy mod gear. This is one place that’s definitely still swinging. Only a few centuries ago, Soho was still open fields. In fact ‘Soho’ was the name of an old hunting cry. In the 17th century, the area housed a ‘pestilence house’ and plague pit to bury victims. By the 1950s it was home to bohemians and prostitutes, but by the 1960s this had all changed. Begin your journey at 1 Carnaby Street – here you will find a plaque to John Stephen, the man who was dubbed the ‘King of Carnaby Street’, as he was a fashion entrepreneur who turned the area into the shopping destination that it is today. Suddenly, famous faces such as The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and Jimi Hendrix could be spotted shopping on Carnaby Street. The connection to music is still apparent today. Every July there is Carnaby Sound,
and the opera Les Contes d’Hoffmann (from 7 Nov). Enzo Plazzotta’s statue of a stretching ballerina is across the road. Film fans will want to visit the London Film Museum. It takes about an hour to browse Bond in Motion, the largest official collection of James Bond vehicles. As well as original sketches, the exhibition displays Rolls-Royces, Aston Martins, motorbikes and submarines, as well as video clips showing the scenes in which they featured. Meanwhile, near the English National Opera’s base at the London Coliseum, you’ll find The Salisbury, a pub with etched glass mirrors, framed pictures and a magnificent mahogany-panelled bar. Back when homosexuality was illegal, the pub was a haven for the theatrical gay community, while in the 1960s it became known as ‘the actors’ pub’. Recognise it? That’s because it featured in the 1961 crime drama Victim, starring Dirk Bogarde; the 1972 comedy Travels with My Aunt starring Maggie Smith and the 2009 comedy The Boat That Rocked, starring Bill Nighy, Rhys Ifans and Kenneth Branagh.
a free music festival. While you are there, pop into Pharrell Williams’ Billionaire Boys Club and Oasis frontman Liam Gallagher’s Pretty Green. When you set foot in the department store Liberty, it is like entering another era, thanks to its mock-Tudor-style building. You’ll find high-end brands alongside the traditional haberdashery department. The stationery and scarves are iconic for their prints. We Built this City is one of London’s quirkiest souvenir shops with items including a brick vase, stuffed pigeons and bottled London rain. Kingly Court, a three-storey collection of boutique shops, restaurants and bars, buzzes in the evening. Visit Cahoots, if you can find it – this hidden bar, which only has the sign ‘To Trains’ outside the door, pays homage to the world’s oldest Underground train service: the Tube. Toast your trip while you sit in an old Tube carriage, sip a cocktail and listen to some cabaret.
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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
FROM LONDON As the Christmas season begins, take a pick of advent calendars, from the quirky to the luxurious, including ones for children, pets and you!
LUXURY CHOCOLATES Godiva advent calendar, £23 Godiva, 141 Regent St, W1B 4JA
A THING OF BEAUTY Decléor advent calendar 25 Surprise Treats, £60 John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX
SANTA CLAUS IS COMING TO TOWN Wooden Santa lorry advent calendar, £34.95 Liberty, Regent St, W1B 5AH
FACE THE MUSIC Toy Shoppe musical wooden advent calendar, £150 Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER
DRINK UP! That Boutique-y Whisky Company’s advent calendar, £249.95 Drinks by the Dram, www.drinksbythedram.com
A GREAT BRITISH BRAND Jo Malone advent calendar, £260 Jo Malone, 101 Regent St, W1B 4EZ
BRICK BY BRICK LEGO City advent calendar, £19.99 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; WOMAN © ISTOCK
HOME IMPROVEMENTS Wooden houses advent calendar, £40 John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX
TOP DOG Good Boy Real Meaty Treats dog advent calendar, £6.99 Amazon, www.amazon.co.uk
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r e p m a h a s N a m WI t s ri h C r in ou DRAW!* PRIZE Send a parc el wit Mai h
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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE
And your mission is... You’ll need to watch your back in this immersive experience at the Tower of London, warns Sarah Riches a cryptic email about the tower – a former castle, execution site and prison built in 1078. You will be given a secret code that grants you access once the public has left for the day and you’ll be told who to meet and where – but that’s it. Let the suspense begin… Armed only with headphones, you’ll explore cobbled squares, towers and stone bridges all alone at night, with only messages and phone calls to guide you along the way. You will also discover Tower Hill and the wharf outside the tower walls, so wrap up warm and wear flat shoes – because if you get spooked, you might need to make a run for safety. While you’re learning about the history of the tower, and the spies that belonged to a secret service who were imprisoned during the Elizabethan period, you’ll be encouraged to question everything – and trust no one. By the time you leave, the hairs on the back of your neck will be raised and you’ll be looking over your shoulder, just in case you’re being followed. This is the Tower of London, but not as you know it. For full listing, turn to p. 29
Cutty Sark The world’s last surviving tea clipper is busy with activities during the day, but it really comes alive at night. Don’t miss OperaUpClose’s production of Puccini’s tragic opera, La Bohème (12 Nov), directed by Robin Norton-Hale, about a group of Bohemian friends in Paris as they try to make ends meet and follow their dreams. King William Walk, SE10 9HT
The View from the Shard Come nightfall, you can dance the night away at a silent disco from the top of Western Europe’s tallest tower (12, 19 & 26 Nov). On arrival you’ll be given headphones with three switches so you can flip between tunes played simultaneously by three DJs. The Shard has also launched Day and Night tickets that you can purchase for an extra £10. There needs to be a limit of two hours between your visits – just enough time to visit one of the restaurants below. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG
tower of london images © CESARE DE GIGLIO; disco © istock
Do you ever worry about employers Googling you, or whether a drone is recording your movements? Back for a third time, Nightwatchers is an immersive experience at the Tower of London (3-5 & 10-12 Nov), which is designed to make you think about these questions and more. If you’ve never given a thought to personal privacy, state surveillance and covert investigations, you soon will. The digital theatre company, Anagram, is returning to direct the after-hours experience. It begins when you, Operative 341, receive
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A dress doesnâ€™t have to be short to be revealing Walk in the wardrobes of HM The Queen, Princess Margaret and Diana, Princess of Wales in this very intimate exhibition. Learn about the fascinating women beneath the dresses and how they stretched the rules of fashion. Nearest tube Queensway. Under 16s go free. Book now online.
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For more information on the where pass london, visit wherepasslondon.com
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73
Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org. uk/apsleyhouse. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by celebrated baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. Mon-Sun 10am-1pm; but check before visiting. Adult £6; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.
Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo with a petting farm with donkeys, chinchillas and goats. Daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £8.95; child £6.95. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
Buckingham Palace The residence and workplace of the Queen is closed to the public (except in summer). www.royal collection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria.
Changing the Guard At 11.30am every other day, watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on Buckingham Palace’s forecourt. There is no ceremony in very wet weather. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 030-3123 7300. www.changing-the-guard. com. Changing the Life Guard Ceremony takes place Mon-Fri 11am; Sun 10am – check for lastminute changes. www.royal.gov.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 030-3123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
Chelsea Physic Garden
London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species of plants, especially medicinal ones. Free daily tours. Mon-Fri 11am-3pm. Adult £9.50; child £6.95. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.
This attractive 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London and is now a museum with gardens, a café and art gallery. 2, 13, 15, 20 & 27 Nov: Monthly Historical Tours. Museum, historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm-3.30pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Avenue, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.
Cutty Sark Pass Partner This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Explore displays or take part in a family-friendly events. 18 Nov: Anniversary Concert: Fisherman’s Friends. Celebrate the 147th anniversary of the ship with shanty singers. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £12.15; child £6.30. www.rmg.co.uk/cuttysark. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
Dennis Severs’ House The home of artist Dennis Severs, which illustrates the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th century. Silent night tour Mon; Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Adult £10; child £5. www.dennis severshouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 0207247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this period home. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm. Adult £6; child £2.50. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple.
Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.
In the line of fire Not content with hosting naked streaks and silent discos, ZSL London Zoo goes one step further with a Fire Walk (10 Nov. p. 28). Now in its fifth year, the fundraising event helps protect endangered wildlife around the world. It sees brave visitors (over-18s) walk barefoot across a 10ft path of red-hot embers, which takes about four steps to complete. Last year, 43 people braved the 1,200°F path, and most managed it more than once. Just before, the Nothing is Impossible seminar gets you all fired up as you learn to face your fears and turn them into a power to overcome any obstacle. You’ll then make sure your feet are completely clean before doing the walk. Cold water buckets are on standby at the end of it – just in case you find it too hot to handle.
Go Ape Battersea Park Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Daily from 9.30am. Adult £35; child £27-£35. www.goape.co.uk/battersea-park. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0845-643 9236. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
Golden Hinde II A full-size reconstruction of Sir Francis Drake’s 16th-century vessel, in which he circumnavigated the globe. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Guided tour adult £7; child £5. www.golden hinde.com. 1 Pickfords Wharf, Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0123. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses has gardens that are said to be haunted. Please check for times. Adult £10.40; child £5.20. www.national trust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.
Handel & Hendrix in London The former homes of Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. 4 Nov: Friday Lates with Impropera. Opera. 8-13 Nov: Happy 15th Birthday Handel House. Celebrate with live music. Mon-Sat 11pm-6pm; Sun noon-6pm. Adult £10; child £5. www.handel house.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.
HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.25. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.
Houses of Parliament The site of British Parliament since 1265, the building was constructed in the 19th century. Hear Big Ben chime in its clock tower and watch debates for free. Guided and audio tours every Sat. Guided tour adult £25.50; child £11. Audio tour adult £18.50; child £7.50 (first child free). www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.
The Jewel Tower Built to house Edward III’s treasures. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.
Keats House This was the 19th-century home of poet John Keats. 20 Nov: Family Day: Small World. Over-sevens can make a shadow theatre puppet. 24 Nov: Keats House by Candlelight. Includes a glass of wine and a mince pie. £15. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/keatshouse hampstead. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
hot coals © istock
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Linking London’s Attractions MBNA Thames Clippers are the fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, serving 21 piers across London, meaning you can see more of what London has to offer.
o h in t Touc ou go sy pay a
Chelsea Harbour Cadogan
Putney Wandsworth Plantation Riverside Wharf
London Bridge City
London Eye (Waterloo)
Emirates Air Line
Greenland (Surrey Quays)
Woolwich (Royal Arsenal)
St George Wharf (Vauxhall)
Route map key RB1 – Stopping service RB1X – Express service thamesclippers.com RB1/RB5 – Limited service RB2 – Tate to Tate service 0319_TC_WHERE_London_AD_206x276.indd 1 WL THAMES CLIPPERS.indd 1
RB4 – Doubletree Docklands ferry RB6 – Monday to Friday only @thamesclippers /thamesclippers Emirates Air Line
All our boats are wheelchair accessible
All our piers are wheelchair accessible except for London Bridge, Wandsworth Riverside Quarter and Cadogan Piers
Docklands Light Railway National Rail Santander Cycle Hire
Mobility scooter users must join our Mobility Scooter Recognition Scheme in advance of travel 28/09/2016 14/10/2016 20:41 09:40
SIGHTSEEING Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens and was Princess Diana’s last home. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £15; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.
Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood House and its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Free admission. Please check for times. www.englishheritage.org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
All mapped out Life before Google Maps may be a distant memory, but a fascinating new exhibition at The British Library explores how maps were once used exclusively by officials. Maps and the 20th Century: Drawing the Line (from 4 Nov) examines the often tumultuous history of the 1900s. These intriguing insights include a map of America made by the Nazis in 1940 showing which areas had the most German-Austrian immigrants to estimate potential support, plus the British Ministry of Defence’s maps illustrating fictional scenarios such as Scotland decimated by nuclear bombs. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 033-0333 1144. www.bl.uk. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras
Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Kids can ‘try’ out careers including TV and animation studios and a chocolate factory. Daily from 10am; call for closing times. Adult £18; child £31-£33.50. www.london. kidzania.com. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this spine-tingling scary attraction to life. Tickets also include the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am6pm. Adult £26.95; child £21.45. www.thelondon bridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.
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LONDON’S NO.1 SIGHTSEEING TOUR ON THE THAMES
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SIGHTSEEING The London Dungeon PASS PARTNER Sets, actors and special effects evoke ghoulish encounters from 1,000 years. Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets with London Aquarium, London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for opening times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-423 2240. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Daily 10am-8.30pm. Adult £24.95; child £18.95. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.
ZSL London Zoo
PASS PARTNER As well as an aquarium and penguin beach, you can visit the Land of the Lions exhibition – which houses Asiatic lions. 10 Nov: Fire Walk. Watch brave ‘soles’ as they walk barefoot across fire (p. 24). Daily Coca-Cola London Eye BBTLDTWhereLondon_190x118_050815 copy.pdf 1 05/08/2015 16:08 10am-4pm. Adult £25.50; child £18.50. www.zsl.org. PASS PARTNER London Zoo, Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. Joint tickets with the London 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.
SIGHTSEEING BUS TOUR
Madame Tussauds PASS PARTNER Celebrated wax figures depicting famous people, from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the Star Wars exhibition. Joint tickets with the London Aquarium, London Dungeon, London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for times. Adult £35; child £29.50. www.madame tussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.
The Monument This column was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £4; child £2. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument. org.uk. The Monument, Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.
18 Stafford Terrace This house gives an insight into the life of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, who lived here from 1875. Wed; Sat-Sun 11am-12.15pm & 2pm5.30pm. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc. gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes the ArcelorMittal Orbit. Please check for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.
Ripley’s Believe It or Not! PASS PARTNER This curiosity-filled museum with more than 700 artefacts is a hit across the globe. Explore oddities, from a shrunken head to the world’s tallest man. Daily 10am-midnight. Adult £27.95; child £20.95. www.ripleyslondon.com. 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 020-3238 0022. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew
FREE RIVER CRUISE
3 FREE WALKING TOURS
24 OR 48 HOUR TICKETS
WITH 48 HOUR TICKET
PASS PARTNER This botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe. Experience The Hive, an enormous aluminium structure modelled on a beehive. From 23 Nov: Christmas at Kew. An incredible light and laser display illuminates the gardens (not 28-29 Nov). Daily 10am-4.15pm. Adult £15; child £3.50. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.
The Royal Mews Built by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses, including the Diamond Jubilee State Coach. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £9.30; child £5.50. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Royal Observatory
For great online savings visit:
BIGBUSTOURS.COM/LONDON or speak to your concierge
PASS PARTNER The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and watch planetarium shows. The Sky Tonight. The planetarium show explores the moon, constellations, planets and space. Observatory and Meridian Line daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £5. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Avenue, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.
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SIGHTSEEING Sea Life London Aquarium
The View from The Shard
Warner Bros Studio Tour London
Pass Partner One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-th rough tank tunnels. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat-Sun 9am-7pm. Adult £24.50; child £18.10. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-663 1678. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Pass Partner Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed ‘kaleidoscopic’ lift. At 1,017ft, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor in Berkshire – and if you can’t see four major landmarks due to rain or fog you can visit again for free. 12, 19 & 26 Nov: Silent Disco. Enjoy a night out where you dance with headphones on. If you pre-book you can also do yoga (£40). Yoga Sat 8.15am-9.30am. Sun-Wed 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am-10pm. Advance adult £25.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Pass Partner Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. A fascinating insight into filmmaking. To 4 Nov: 15th Anniversary Film Celebrations. See sets, props and costumes that were first created during the production of Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. Check for times. Adult £35; child £27. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour. co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.
Shrek’s Adventure! Pass Partner Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into a live actor fairytale-themed show. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Sea Life London Aquarium available. Mon-Fri-Sun 11am-5pm; Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £27; child £21.85. www.shreks adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.
St James’s Palace One of London’s oldest palaces, constructed in the 14th century. Palace and house closed to the public. www.royal.gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: St James’s Park.
St Katharine Docks This central London marina, which dates back to the 11th century, has great markets and galleries. www.skdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brassrubbing centre and live classical music (some free). Please check for opening times. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-thefields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
St Paul’s Cathedral Pass Partner Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral. Climb to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps for a London panorama. Free tours. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls. co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.
Tower Bridge Exhibition This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, has wonderful views; check out the glass floor on the high walkways. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £9; child £3.90. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). 3-5 & 10-12 Nov: Nightwatchers. Immersive experience at night (p. 22). Tue-Sat 9am-4.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-4.30pm. Adult £22.50; child £10.50. www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
The Vault This venue is home to iconic rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia at Hard Rock Cafe’s revamped museum. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. www.wheretraveler.com 29
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SIGHTSEEING Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over London. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £4.70; child £2.80. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Westminster Abbey This abbey is the crowning and final resting site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of writers. Mon-Sat; check for times. Adult £20; child £9. www.westminsterabbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster.
River Trips Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes 11am-3pm for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. A one-way Circular Cruise takes approximately 30 minutes while a return cruise takes one hour. Adult single £10, return £14; child single £5, return £7. www.circularcruise.co.uk. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.
City Cruises Pass Partner Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich Piers. River Red Rover is an allday hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. London Showboat cabaret cruise includes a meal and music Fri-Sat. Other cruises also available. Please check for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7740 0400. Station: Departure points vary.
London Duck Tours See some of London’s sights on land before a thrilling splashdown on the River Thames – ideal if you’re keen for an amphibious adventure. Adult £26; child £18. www.londonducktours.co.uk. 55 York Rd, SE1 7NJ. T: 020-7928 3132. F8. Station: Waterloo.
London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 11.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.58. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
MBNA Thames Clippers Pass Partner The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 20 piers across the capital. Oyster cards are valid. River Roamer hop on and off adult £14.70; child 7.35. www.thames clippers.com. Various points along River Thames. T: 020-7001 2200.
Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service with live audio commentary departs from Westminster Pier and St Katharine’s Pier every 30 minutes 10am-4pm for Greenwich Piers and the Thames Barrier. Westminster to Greenwich adult single £12.50, return £16.50; child single £6.25, return £8.25. www.thamesriverservices.co.uk. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.
Thamesjet Try this 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics. Departs from Westminster Pier. WedSun 11am-3pm. Adult from £39; child from £28. www.thamesjet.com. Various departure points. T: 020-7740 0400. Station: Various.
Tours & Guided Walks Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £22; child £11. www.bigbustours.com. Various departure points. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Victoria.
Big Bus Walking Tours Choose from Royal London at 10.20am; Harry Potter at 2pm and London Rocks at 5pm. All take 90 minutes to two hours. £5 or free with a Big Bus Tour. Daily. www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop 10, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.
Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge or City of London qualified guide drives you around in a licenced taxi for up to five people. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Various departure points. T: 020-8590 3621. 30 W H E R E Lo n d o n I NO V E M B E R 2016
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SIGHTSEEING City of London Guides Walks
The Original Tour
Royal Albert Hall Tours
A variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street – the home of journalism – to Smithfield Market and City gardens. Adult free-£12.50; child free-£8. www.cityoflondonguides.com. Various departure points.
Pass Partner With more than 60 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours allow you to hop on and off. Its original 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. Adult £30; child £15. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
Take a one-hour Grand Tour of this concert hall. Check for times. Adult £12.75; child £5.75. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 0207959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Golden Tours A range of tours of London and the UK including a Jack the Ripper Walking Tour. Adult £10; child £5. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039. Station: Victoria.
Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off. Oneday, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039. Station: Various.
PlanetPass This app allows you to book a private guided tour. Choose from street art, Jack the Ripper and more. From £9 per person. www.planetpass.com. Various meeting points. T: 01865-922380.
Royal Opera House One of the world’s leading opera venues and also home to the Royal Ballet. To 30 Nov: Backstage Tour. Visit behind the scenes for an insight into the venue’s history and you may see a rehearsal in progress. Most days 10.30am; 12.30pm & 2.30pm, but check. Adult £12; child £8.50. www.royal operahouse.org. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
GoToMidtown Tours Moire than 100 themed 45-minute free tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn. There’s no need to book. 10am & 1pm walks start at the orange information kiosk outside Holborn Tube station (88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA). 11am, 2pm & 5.30pm walks start from the GoToMidtown shop and information centre (56 New Oxford St, WC1B 3ST). www.gotomidtown. co.uk. Holborn Tube station, 88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA T: 020-7078 7077. D7/8. Station: Holborn. 56 New Oxford St, WC1B 3ST. T: 020-7078 7077. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
Jack the Ripper Tours An intriguing look at the infamous Jack the Ripper. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. Aldgate East Underground station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.
The London Helicopter Tour Pass Partner Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with views of iconic landmarks. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour. Prices start from £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 0207887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.
London Literary Pub Crawl See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it includes pubs and bars associated with the British film industry and today’s writers. Sat 5pm (& 1pm 19 Nov). Tickets £24. www.londonliterary pubcrawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
London Walks The city’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Favourites include the Jack the Ripper Walk (daily 7.30pm & Sat 3pm from Tower Hill). Walks take two hours and there’s no need to book. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.
Original London Sightseeing Walk Walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre and include Changing the Guard (departing 10.30am), Rock ‘n’ Roll (1pm) and Jack the Ripper (3.30pm from Tower Hill Station). Walking tours are free with Original London Sightseeing Tour. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross. www.wheretraveler.com 31
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SIGHTSEEING See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.
Shakespeare’s Globe (Tours) This reconstruction of William Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has one of the city’s only thatched roofs. Call ahead to check times. Globe exhibition: daily 9am-5pm. Globe tours: Mon 9.30am-5pm; Tue-Sat 9.30am-12.30pm; Sun 9.30am-11.30am. Exhibition and Globe tour adult £15; child £9. www.shakespearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
Walkit Innovative site aiming to get people out on foot. Enter your starting point and destination and the site will work out a route map, distance, time, calorie burn and carbon saving. www.walkit.com.
Wembley Tours Pass Partner Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with a replica of the FA Cup. Daily from 10am. Adult £19; child £11. www.wembleystadium.com/wembleytours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.
Out Of Town Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. Palace and formal gardens daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Palace, park and gardens adult £24.90; child £13.90; park and gardens adult £14.90; child £6.90. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810530. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.
Hampton Court Palace Once home to King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace includes a maze. Palace and formal gardens daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £18.20; child £9.10. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.
Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s residence in Scotland. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £12; child £7.20. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley, then a 15-minute walk.
Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £15.50; child £9.30. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.
Warwick Castle Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle has ‘Capability’ Brown gardens. 4-5 & 11-12 Nov: Little Warrior Weekends. Children can learn archery and sword skills. Daily 10am-4pm. Castle adult £25.20; child £22.20; castle & dungeon adult £30.20; child £27.20. www.warwick-castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. Off map. Station: Warwick.
Watts Gallery Artists’ Village Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills with Victorian paintings and sculptures. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child free. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810825. www.wattsgallery.org.uk. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then take a bus or taxi.
Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Charges for special events. Daily 9.45am-4.15pm (semi-state rooms closed 18 & 25 Nov). Adult £20; child £11.70. www.royalcollection. org.uk. Windsor Castle, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.
Woburn Abbey and Gardens Set in a 3,000-acre deer park, this historic house has been home to the Earls and Dukes of Bedford. The abbey is now closed; gardens and tea rooms Fri-Sun. Please check for times. Gardens and deer park adult £7.25; child £4.50. www.woburnabbey. co.uk. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525290333. Off map. Station: St Pancras to Flitwick.
London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night
See By Night
The family-friendly Taxi Tour Company “We meet as strangers and part as friends”
Enjoy a private London tour for 2 or 3 hours, half day or even a full day in an iconic London Taxi.
Departing daily from Green Park
See the sights before taking our ‘Hidden Treasures Tour’ to explore parts of London that tourists never normally get to see.
bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel
at 19:30 and 21:20 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night
Adult - £18 Child - £10
Private tours available for groups day or night
Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744
Themed tours include Harry Potter, Doctor Who, Downton Abbey, James Bond, The Beatles, Ghost tour, Sinister London, ‘It’s only Rock n Roll’ and many more. Countryside tours including Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Windsor.
Call us on: 07970 911223 / 07398 200761 or 020 8590 3621 5 star service and reviews
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LONDONâ€™S BEST RESTAURANT CRUISE
LUNCH AFTERNOON TEA DINNER
www.cruises.london Tel: +44 (0)20 7695 1800 /BateauxLondon
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE
A new order
The Design Museum has inspired its visitors for nearly three decades and now it’s moving to Kensington to fire up another generation, says Sam Rogg After almost 30 years in Bermondsey, London’s much-loved Design Museum is on the move. On 24 November, the new Design Museum opens its doors in Kensington (above) following a £83m transformation of the Commonwealth Institute, a listed landmark from the 1960s. With three times more space than its original address and an ambitious programme of exhibitions, it is tipped to become the world’s leading museum of design and architecture. For the first time in the museum’s history, there will be a free permanent display of its famous collection, called Designer Maker User. Get up close to the consumer goods that wowed the world including a Vespa Clubman, an Olivetti Valentine typewriter (above) and a Sony TPS-L2 Walkman. Discover pioneering designs in all shapes and sizes, from the Obama ‘Progress’ poster to the GRiD ‘Compass’, one of the first laptop computers,
both of which are on display. If you think you’ve seen it all when it comes to ‘fast fashion’, wait until you see Celia Birtwell and Ossie Clark’s throwaway paper dress. The new museum seeks to tell stories through design. Its first major exhibition Fear and Love: Reactions to a Complex World features installations that explore our hopes and doubts about the impact of change. The third gallery will exhibit the museum’s flagship show Designs of the Year. A coffee cup for astronauts, David Bowie’s Blackstar album cover and a sexual health kit are on show. Sir Terence Conran, one of the most important designers of the past century, says: ‘If you forced me to pick the single most rewarding achievement in my long career, then I would say founding The Design Museum. Since 1989 it has always led the way.’ Now it’s destined to inspire new generations to think big about design. For full listing, turn to p. 35
THE CHARTERHOUSE MUSEUM At 660 years old, this assembly of historic buildings in Clerkenwell is also one of the capital’s oldest attractions. Over the centuries it has been used as a plague pit, a monastery, a Tudor mansion that hosted Elizabeth I, and an almshouse for ‘decrepit’ men. Revealing the Charterhouse, a collaboration with the Museum of London, sees the first parts now open to the public. It is home to 40 ‘Brothers’, who offer pre-booked tours. Join one and discover the great story of this sprawling oasis in the heart of the capital. Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AN
CITY OF LONDON POLICE MUSEUM This recently relocated collection of police wonders is a hidden gem. You can trace the development of the City’s police service, from its earliest days to the modern force, with fascinating insights into Victorian crime fighting and beyond. Highlights include a scale model of a jeweller’s shop – the focus of a triple murder in 1910 – and bombs created by the Suffragettes in their fight for gender equality. Guildhall Library, Aldermanbury, EC2V 7HH
the design museum © luke hayes; typewriter © the design museum; plaque courtesy of the charterhouse museum
New museums on the block
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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73
Museums Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a peek inside the players’ changing rooms and tunnel. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tour from 11am. Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for closures. Self-guided adult £20; child £10. ‘Legends’ adult from £40; child from £20.75. Museum only adult £8; child £5. www.arsenal.com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 0207619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.
Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the Bank of England from its 1694 foundation to the present day. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.
Benjamin Franklin House Charming 18th-century townhouse and the last remaining home of the American Founding Father. 24 Nov: Thanksgiving Dinner (adult £80; child £45). Check for architectural tours and historical shows. Tue booking required. Shows adult £7; under-16s free. Mon guided tours adult £3.50; under-16s free. www.benjaminfranklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Clink Prison Museum
Fashion and Textile Museum
In this former prison dating back to 1144, you can see an exhibition about London’s penal past and instruments of torture. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery. To 15 Jan: 1920s Jazz Age: Fashion & Photographs. Haute couture and ready-to-wear fashions from 1919 to 1929. Check for times. Adult £9; child free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.
The Design Museum
Florence Nightingale Museum
Recently relocated to High Street Kensington (p. 34). Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
The Fan Museum Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan with examples from the 12th century up to the present day. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £4; child £3; under-sevens free. www.thefan museum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 0208305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.
The work of the 19th-century nurses Florence Nightingale and Mary Seacole. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florence-nightingale. co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7620 0374. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
The Foundling Museum Britain’s original home for abandoned children. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundlingmuseum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.
The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. Regular talks and events. To 27 Nov: Sunken Cities: Egypt’s Lost Worlds. Showcasing ancient objects from two lost underwater cities. To 26 Feb: South Africa: The Art of a Nation. Some of the earliest examples of human creativity plus contemporary works. Sat-Thur 10am5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.
The Cartoon Museum British cartoons, caricature and comic art. From 2 Nov: Pictures from Punch. Cartoons from the satirical magazine. Mon-Sat 10.30am5.30pm; Sun noon-5.30pm. Adult £7; under-18s free. www.cartoonmuseum.org. 35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. T: 020-7580 8155. D8. Station: Holborn.
Charles Dickens Museum
Frederic Leighton’s Flaming June © Museo de Arte de Ponce
the design museum © luke hayes; typewriter © the design museum; plaque courtesy of the charterhouse museum
For more information on the where pass london, visit wherepasslondon.com
The former home of the Victorian novelist. 20 Nov: Housemaid’s Tour. Step back in time to 1839 (10am; 10.45am and 11.30am). Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £9; child £4. www.dickensmuseum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.
Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours Pass Partner Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and ‘Legends’ tours (tickets £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelseafc. com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
Churchill War Rooms Fortified basement where Winston Churchill worked during World War II. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £18; child £9; under-fives free. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.
Paint the town red Step inside Leighton House Museum, the former home of 19th-century artist Frederic Leighton. The only purpose-built studio-house in the UK that’s open to the public, this historic building has become a national treasure for its exhibits on Victorian art and culture. This month welcomes the return of one of Leighton’s celebrated paintings from the Ponce Museum of Art in Puerto Rico. Flaming June: A Masterpiece Comes Home (from 4 Nov; p. 36; above) displays the work, which depicts a sleeping female figure wrapped in orange fabric against a Mediterranean backdrop, alongside other works submitted by Leighton that year, so you can get a taste of what the original exhibition looked like in 1895. www.wheretraveler.com 35
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The Geffrye Museum
Household Cavalry Museum
London Film Museum
Historic 18th-century almshouses with rooms recreating English interiors from 1600 to today. From 22 Nov: Christmas Past: 400 Years of Seasonal Traditions in English Homes. The museum’s period rooms are transformed with authentic decorations and lights. Tue-Sun & bank holidays, 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.geffrye-museum.org.uk. 136 Kingsland Rd, E2 8EA. T: 020-7739 9893. Off map. Station: Hoxton.
Explore the work of the Queen’s mounted guard and see a working stables. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard daily on Horse Guards Parade at 11am; Sun 10am; plus inspection at 4pm. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7; child £5. www.householdcavalrymuseum. co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 0207930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.
Bond in Motion is the official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the film series. It is the largest display of its kind staged in London. It also has Cars of Spectre, the first UK exhibition of items from the film. Mon-Fri & Sun 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london filmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7202 7042. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Guards Museum The history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards, which watch over the Royal Palaces. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £6; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.
Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon that of the adventuring Victorian tea trader Frederick John Horniman. Daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman. ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.
House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake. Adult £7; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.house ofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, King’s Cross, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Imperial War Museum Huge displays of conflicts, particularly those involving Britain and the Commonwealth. To 8 Jan: Real to Reel: A Century of War Movies. Go behind the scenes of classic war films including Saving Private Ryan and Casablanca. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm. org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.
Jewish Museum Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today. Sat-Thur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
Leighton House Museum The restored former home of Lord Frederic Leighton is now a museum of his life and work. From 4 Nov: Flaming June: The Making of an Icon. Leighton’s masterpiece returns to where it was painted (p. 35). Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult from £7; child free. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.
London Transport Museum Exploring the city’s transport network. The new permanent gallery London by Design reveals how the city has become a world leader in transport design. Find out how design is encountered in our everyday journeys. 24 Nov-18 Dec: Down Street: Churchill’s Secret Station. Experience the tunnels where Sir Winston Churchill took refuge at the height of the Blitz (from £75; p. 7). Mon-Thur & SatSun 10am-6pm; Fri 11am-6pm. Adult £17; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum, covering London’s history from pre-Roman times to the present day. To 17 Apr: Fire! Fire! Interactive exhibition marking the 350th anniversary of the disaster. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon. org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.
Museum of London Docklands History of the Thames. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.museum oflondon.org.uk/docklands. No 1 Warehouse, West India Quay, E14 4AL. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf/West India Quay. Spread over several sites, which were originally part of a 19th-century school for seafarers’ children. Includes the Maritime Galleries, with Captain Cook’s ship Endeavour and Nelson’s Trafalgar uniform. From 3 Nov: Emma Hamilton: Seduction and Celebrity. Learn about Nelson’s mistress. Mon-Sun 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.
Natural History Museum Numerous exhibits about nature’s many wonders. To 6 Nov: Colour and Vision. How the entwined histories of colour and vision have filled the natural world with the hues we see today. To 20 Sep 2017: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. Annual exhibition. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm. ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Photo opportunities Did you know that Sir Elton John has one of the best collections of 20th-century photography in the world? Visit Tate Modern this autumn and you can see some of it in The Radical Eye: Modernist Photography from the Sir Elton John Collection (from 10 Nov; p. 39). More than 50 artists are featured in over 150 prints, including a spectacular series of Man Ray portraits and images of Matisse, Breton and Picasso. Collected over the past 25 years, these masterpieces highlight a key moment in photography, from the 1920s to the 1950s, when the medium came into its own. It’s not often that the public gets to see a superstar’s private art collection, particularly one as important and thrilling as this.
This 17th-century house displays a stunning fine art collection, including Old Masters. Daily 10am-5pm; closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.
Science Museum Enjoy changing exhibitions, an IMAX 3D cinema and the BBC’s first radio transmitter 2LO. Wonderlab: The Statoil Gallery. Interactive gallery exploring science and mathematics. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.science museum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0870870 4868. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Man Ray’s Glass Tears (Les Larmes) 1932 © Collection of Elton John/Man Ray Trust/ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2016
National Maritime Museum
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LONDON. LOOK AGAIN.
Man Ray’s Glass Tears (Les Larmes) 1932 © Collection of Elton John/Man Ray Trust/ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2016
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Sir John Soane’s Museum
Victoria and Albert Museum
The architect Sir John Soane’s former home houses a gem of a collection including Hogarth paintings. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.
See vintage teapots, caddies and photographs at the home of the famous teamakers. Mon-Fri 9.30am7.30pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
V&A Museum of Childhood
This Thameside building houses the Courtauld Gallery, other galleries, cafés and restaurants. From 2 Nov: Hair by Sam McKnight. Exhibition celebrating the master hairstylist’s career (p. 10). Galleries daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Temple.
National collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century. To 23 Apr: Game Plan: Board Games Rediscovered. Celebrate the fun of playing board games. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.museumofchildhood.org.uk. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.
Housing a collection of fine and applied arts. To 26 Feb: You Say You Want a Revolution: Records & Rebels 1966-1970. Explore the significance of the late 1960s through music, fashion, film, design and political activism. To 12 Mar: Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear. Concepts of the ideal body. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.
The Wallace Collection See a collection of Rococo art. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Wellcome Collection Artefacts relating to health and the body. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcome collection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.
Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours Pass Partner Trophies, memorabilia and fashions plus a collection of kit and artefacts from key players such as Serena Williams and Novak Djokovic. To 20 Mar: Reinventing the Racket. Ongoing, fun-packed exhibition of the museum’s most iconic and unusual rackets, featuring the old, the new and the entirely unique. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum £13, child £8; museum and tour £24, child £15. Family offer: one free child to every full price adult until 31 Mar. www.wimbledon.com/ museum. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields/Tooting Broadway, then bus 493.
Fall in love with Wimbledon
Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue. To 5 Feb: The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined. Explore the idea of taste in fashion, from the Renaissance to today. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. Mon-Sat 9am11pm; Sun noon-11pm; bank holidays noon-11pm. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.
The Courtauld Gallery European art collection, plus temporary exhibitions. To 22 Jan: Rodin & Dance: The Essence of Movement. Explore Rodin’s fascination with dance and acrobatic poses. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £9; child free. www.courtauld.ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 2526. E8. Station: Embankment.
Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites? Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit.
Guildhall Art Gallery
New Virtual Reality experience Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:30pm Nearest Underground: Southﬁelds The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE
T: 020 8946 6131 wimbledon.com/museum
Art from 1670 to the present day. At the Heritage Gallery, you can see Shakespeare’s First Folio. To 20 Nov: Visscher Redrawn: 1616-2016. See Visscher’s famous image of medieval London alongside Robin Reynolds’ modern version. To 22 Jan: Victorians Decoded: Art and Telegraphy. Discover the impact of telegraphy. Mon-Sat 10am5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 0207332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.
The National Gallery One of the world’s great galleries. To 15 Jan: Beyond Caravaggio. Explore one of art’s most revolutionary figures. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
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National Portrait Gallery British history told through portraiture. To 5 Feb: Picasso Portraits. The artist’s portrayal of family, friends and lovers. Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm (regular Late Shift special events). Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Queen’s Gallery Magnificent treasures from the Royal Collection. From 4 Nov: Portrait of the Artist. Images of artists from within the Royal Collection. Daily 10am-5.30pm (closed 1-3 Nov). Adult £10.30; child £5.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.
Royal Academy of Arts Eighteenth-century apartments with RA Collection works in all media. To 2 Jan: Abstract Expressionism. Fascinating display reveals the full breadth of an unparalleled period in American art. Fri 10am-10pm; Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; check for special events and free lunchtime concerts. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 0207300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.
Saatchi Gallery See groundbreaking contemporary art in a stunningly renovated Georgian building. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
Serpentine Gallery A respected arts space in Kensington Gardens displaying modern and contemporary work. TueSun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentine galleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 0207402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.
Tate Britain Traditional and contemporary British art. To 2 Jan: Turner Prize 2016. Discover the four artists shortlisted for this year’s award. To 5 Mar: Paul Nash.
See works by the artist, including his war paintings. Daily 9.45am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.
Tate Modern International modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station, plus regular installations. From 10 Nov: The Radical Eye: Modernist Photography from the Sir Elton John Collection. See one of the world’s greatest private collections of photography (p. 36). Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri & Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.
Watts Gallery Artists’ Village Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures. Visit The Tea Shop, then wander to the nearby Grade I-listed Watts Chapel. 9 Nov: Watts Gallery Highlights Tour. Discover more about the history of the permanent collection, its themes and significant objects in this introductory tour. Due-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child free. Please check for full events. www.wattsgallery. org.uk. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. 01483 810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then take a bus or taxi.
‘powerful and compulsive exhibition’ The Guardian
Until 15 January 2017 Book now
Members go free
Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, The Taking of Christ (detail), 1602. On indefinite loan to the National Gallery of Ireland from the Jesuit Community, Leeson St., Dublin who acknowledge the kind generosity of the late Dr Marie Lea-Wilson. Photo © The National Gallery of Ireland, Dublin
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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE
They will rock you! Get your air guitars ready, because a new musical is set to rock the capital. School of Rock: The Musical will open at the New London Theatre (14 Nov), with new music by Andrew Lloyd Webber and familiar tunes from the hit 2003 movie it’s based on. Richard Linklater directed the original film starring Jack Black as the kind-hearted loser Dewey. To make ends meet, the wannabe rock star poses as a substitute teacher at an exclusive high school. After discovering his students are musically gifted, they form a rock group and enter a Battle of the Bands competition. But can they rise to the challenge before his cover is blown? The musical features choreography by JoAnn M Hunter and is directed by Laurence Connor, who’s got more than one string to his bow – he’s previously directed Les Miserables, Miss Saigon, Oliver!, Jesus Christ Superstar and The Phantom of the Opera. The lyrics, meanwhile, are written by Glenn Slater, who co-created Disney’s Tangled, The Little Mermaid and Sister Act the Musical.
Connor says: ‘I am a huge fan of rock music. I grew up listening to it and used to have hair halfway down my back! I have loved bands like Aerosmith, Black Sabbath, Led Zeppelin, Iron Maiden and AC/DC since I was a kid and I haven’t really grown out of them. ‘Working on School of Rock: The Musical with Andrew [Lloyd Webber] was the most collaborative work of my life. We have similar tastes and worked closely on every level. He has an incredible vinyl record collection of obscure bands, so we had fun playing music and coming up with ideas.’ The main characters will be joined on stage by three teams of 13 young British performers. Connor says: ‘Finding three teams was always going to be hard; we sat through hours of auditions searching for our hopefuls. All the hours were worth it though because we have fantastic children for the production.
‘The main challenge is scheduling because the amount of time you have with them as they juggle their schooling is never enough. It means you have to make the most of what you have and not waste a single second. ‘It is inspiring to see children create live music. One child heard the show was coming to London and worked tirelessly to be good enough to audition. His hard work paid off as he’ll play Freddie when the show opens in London.’ With such a stellar cast and crew, it’s no wonder that the show has been nominated for four Tony Awards – Best Musical, Best Book of a Musical, Best Original Score and Best Performance by a Leading Actor in a Musical – since its world premiere on Broadway in November 2015. With so many accolades, you know this musical will be a winner! For full listing, turn to p. 44
school of rock: the musical © Matthew Murphy
How does Andrew Lloyd Webber turn the much-loved film School of Rock into a musical? asks Sarah Riches
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73. Please check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets for West End shows (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)
A fine kettle of fish
Shakespeare’s Globe’s former artistic director, Mark Rylance (right), stars in Nice Fish at the Harold Pinter Theatre (from 15 Nov; p. 46). Based on poems by Louis Jenkins, there is little narrative between the poems, so you might find the dialogue disjointed. Still, Broadway audiences fell for the play hook, line and sinker – largely because of Rylance’s performance and direction by his wife, Claire van Kampen. Rylance plays Ron, who ponders life’s big questions with his friend Erik as they fish on a frozen lake in Minnesota, which is created by a surreal set with an illuminated palm tree and plastic fish.
Jersey Boys The hit Olivier Award-winning story of Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons dramatises the formation, success and eventual break-up of the 1960s rock ‘n’ roll group. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Tue & Sat 3pm; Sun 5pm. Tickets £24.50-£114. www.jerseyboyslondon.com. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Kinky Boots Fun musical about a shoe factory that reinvigorates its business after its new owner decides to produce knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
The Last Tango Watch TV’s Strictly Come Dancing’s favourite duo Flavia Cacace and Vincent Simone rumba, jive, salsa and tango. Tue-Sun 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £24.25-£121.77. www.phoenix theatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director and choreographer Casey Nicholaw (The Book of Mormon). Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me with lyrics by Tim Rice and a real magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.25-£127.25. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Beautiful – The Carole King Musical Musical about the career of the award-winning singer-songwriter, who wrote a string of hits for Aretha Franklin, The Monkees and The Drifters among others (p. 46). Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£127.50. www.beautifulmusical.co.uk. Aldwych Theatre, 49 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn/Charing Cross.
The Bodyguard Soul singer Beverley Knight wows from start to finish as she sings all of Whitney Houston’s hits in this musical about a singer who falls in love with her bodyguard. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 3pm. Tickets £25-£95. www.dominiontheatre.com. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Book of Mormon This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm (except 2 & 30 Nov). Tickets £27.50-£202.25. www.bookofmormon london.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.
Broadway in Concert 17 Nov: A one-off show with the pop singer
Matt Cardle alongside musical theatre stars accompanied by The Novello Orchestra (p. 48). 7pm. Tickets £40-£84. www.reallyusefultheatres. co.uk. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Charlie and the Chocolate Factory A musical version of Roald Dahl’s children’s tale about an ordinary boy and an extraordinary confectioner. A chocolate garden, an army of squirrels and the curiously peculiar OompaLoompas must be seen to be believed. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.50-£94. www.charlieandthechocolatefactory.com. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Dreamgirls From 19 Nov: Glee star Amber Riley plays Effie White in this musical about the tumultuous journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago (p. 44). Check for times. Tickets £18-£72.50. www.savoy theatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
In the Heights Tony Award-winning musical set in New York. Check for times. Tickets £15-£59.50. www.intheheightslondon. com. King’s Cross Theatre, Corner of King’s Boulevard and Goods Way, King’s Cross, N1C 4UR. T: 0844-871 7604. Off map. Station: King’s Cross.
Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in postrevolutionary France. Ex-convict Jean Valjean is hunted for decades by the ruthless policeman Javert after he breaks parole. When Valjean agrees to care for factory worker Fantine’s young daughter, Cosette, their lives change forever. It has been seen by more than 70 million people in 44 countries. MonSat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £12.50-£127.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/ Piccadilly Circus.
Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry (p. 44). TueSat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £40.20£127.70. www.thelionking. co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Fall under the spell of Wicked the Musical, which is now in its 10th year (p. 44)
NICE FISH © TEDDY WOOLF; WITCH COURTESY OF WICKED THE MUSICAL
MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES
This David Bowie musical is a sequel to the 1976 film The Man Who Fell to Earth, in which David Bowie starred as Thomas Newton. Previously off-Broadway, it features Bowie hits along with three new songs performed by a live seven-piece band on stage. Tue-Fri 8pm; Sat 8.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 3pm. Tickets £15-£75. www.kingscross theatre.com. King’s Cross Theatre, Corner of King’s Boulevard and Goods Way, N1C 4UR. T: 0844-871 7604. Off map. Station: King’s Cross.
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ENTERTAINMENT Stomp An award-winning fusion of theatre, dance, comedy and rhythmic percussion. Matchboxes, brooms, rubbish bins, lighters and more fill the stage with energising beats. Mon & Thur-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm; occasional Weds. Tickets £26-£57.50. www.stomplondon.co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career in this record-breaking musical which is now in its sixth year. Hear all the hits including I Want You Back, ABC, Can You Feel It, Off the Wall, The Way You Make Me Feel, Smooth Criminal, Beat It, Billie Jean, Dirty Diana, Bad, Rock with You, They Don’t Care About Us, Dangerous and Thriller. Tue-Fri 7.30pm; Sat 4pm & 8pm; Sun 3.30pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £27.50-£87.50. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0844482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Wicked the Musical
And I Am Telling You I’m Not Going and Listen are just some of the classic songs in Dreamgirls. Hear these and more as the show has its UK premiere at the Savoy Theatre (from 19 Nov; p. 42). The musical first wowed audiences in 1981 on Broadway, scooping six Tony Awards. In 2006, it was adapted into a film starring Beyoncé, Jennifer Hudson and Anika Noni Rose as a trio of soul singers from Chicago. Known as The Dreams, they fight their way to showbusiness success. The UK version, directed by Aladdin the Musical ’s Casey Nicholaw, stars Amber Riley from the TV comedy Glee alongside Liisi LaFontaine (Rent, Once) and Ibinabo Jack (Legally Blonde the Musical, The Bodyguard ). Bag your dream ticket now!
The Phantom of the Opera
A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. On the eve of her wedding, a daughter’s quest to discover the identity of her father brings three men from her mother’s past back to the island they last visited 20 years ago. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £15-£97.50. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.
Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Shamed by his physical appearance and feared by all, the love he holds for his beautiful protégée Christine Daaé is so strong that even her heart cannot resist. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £21.50-£95. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Matilda the Musical Fantastic show from the Royal Shakespeare Company, based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Tue 7pm; WedSat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £20-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Motown the Musical Brilliant feel-good musical based on the true story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and the Supremes, Michael Jackson and The Jackson 5, Stevie Wonder, Marvin Gaye and The Temptations. By the end of the night you’ll be Dancing in the Street. MonSat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £19.50-£145. www.shaftesburytheatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, which is based on the film of the same name, was a hit on Broadway and it’ll be a smash here, too. It is based on the book by Julian Fellowes (p. 40). To 5 Nov Mon-Sat 7.30pm & Sat 2.30pm. From 7 Nov Mon, Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm, Sun 3pm. Tickets £25-£99.50. www.school ofrockthemusical.com. New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
PLAYS The Comedy about a Bank Robbery A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond, from the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong. Tue-Fri 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm & 7.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£49.50. www.thecomedyabout abankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time Adaptation of Mark Haddon’s novel about a boy with learning difficulties who uncovers more than expected when investigating a local mystery. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £18-£92.50. www.curious onstage.com. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6AR. T: 0844482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.
Cymbeline Classic Shakespeare play about King Cymbeline who wants his daughter to marry his arrogant stepson (p. 46). Check for times. Tickets £10-£75. www.barbican. org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. D10. Station: Barbican.
Have a wild night out at the award-winning The Lion King (p. 42)
DREAMGIRLS IMAGE COURTESY OF DREAMGIRLS ; THE LION KING © DISNEY
The American dream
The brilliant back story of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. It tells the untold story of the friendship between two girls who first meet as sorcery students at Shiz University: the blonde and very popular Glinda and a misunderstood green girl named Elphaba (p. 40). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.50-£125. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.
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dreamgirls image courtesy of dreamgirls ; the lion king © Disney
Shakespeare’s King Lear (from 10 Nov) and Cymbeline (until 17 Dec; p. 44) come to the Barbican. Gregory Doran, the Royal Shakespeare Company’s artistic director, directs his partner Antony Sher (below) in the title role of King Lear, while Cymbeline is set in the present day and stars Gillian Bevan as the king – the RSC’s first woman to take the lead. Director Melly Still says: ‘The character becomes more prominent as a woman – her grief is so vivid. Shakespeare’s plays slot into any cultural climate because, in essence, human stories don’t change.’
The Play That Goes Wrong
Antony Sher stars as King Lear in the Royal Shakespeare Company’s show. Please check for times and prices. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. www.barbican.org.uk. D10. Station: Barbican.
Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Stumbling through their second year, The Cornley Polytechnic Drama Society is putting on a 1920s murder mystery, but as the title suggests, everything that can go wrong does! Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm & 7.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£67.50. www.theplaythat goeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Libertine Dominic Cooper plays the notorious Earl of Rochester, a charismatic poet and playwright with a legendary appetite for excess. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£97.50. www.trh. co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Little Matchgirl and Other Happier Tales From 24 Nov: As a destitute girl struggles to survive, she strikes matches to keep warm – and each match conjures up a new story. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£62. www.shakespeares globe.com. Sam Wanamaker Theatre, Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s popular long-running whodunnit. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Tue 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £18.50-£67.50. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Nice Fish From 15 Nov: Direct from a sold-out season
in New York, Academy and Bafta Award-winner Mark Rylance returns to the West End to perform in this comic play about two men fishing on a frozen lake. Directed by Claire van Kampen (p. 42). Check for times. Tickets £10-£80. www.atgtickets.com. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
No Man’s Land
The Entertainer To 12 Nov: Drama about a disillusioned middle-aged man starring Kenneth Branagh as Archie Rice, a failing music hall performer, who is discontented with his bickering family, weak marriage and his daughter’s broken engagement. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£95. www.nimaxtheatres.com. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV classic. Thur-Sat 7pm; Sat 1pm; Sun 1pm & 6pm. Tickets £59-£69. www.faultytowersuk.com. The Torquay Suite Theatre, Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0845-154 4145. E8. Station: Charing Cross. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. D8. Station: Holborn.
King Lear William Shakespeare’s classic tragedy about a regretful king, played here by Glenda Jackson. Written during a period of great social upheaval, this brutal masterpiece is arguably the greatest tragedy ever written. The fatal consequences of a foolish decision are explored in haunting poetry. Check for times. Tickets £12-£65. www.oldvic theatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.
Ian McKellen and Patrick Stewart reunite in this slow-moving comical drama about a distinguished poet and an alcoholic in his sixties who invites a less successful poet into his home. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£150. www.wyndhamstheatre.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844482 5120. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
One Night in Miami... A play about the Olympic boxer Muhammad Ali’s early career. Mon-Sat 7.30pm, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. £7.50-£40. www.donmar warehouse.com. Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844-871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Peter Pan Goes Wrong A drama society is desperate to deliver a perfect performance of Peter Pan but, on the way to Neverland, the accident-prone thespians battle cast disputes, technical hitches and general bad luck – with hilarious results. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£67.50. www.apollotheatrelondon. co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Wedding Reception Immersive, highly improvised comedy about a bride-to-be who dreams of having a quiet, intimate wedding... Three-course meal included. Check for times and prices. www.interactive theatre.com.au. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. T: 0845-1544 145. D8. Station: Holborn.
The Woman in Black A spooky story (prepare to scream) adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £19.50-£60. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
CHILDREN & FAMILIES A Very Old Man with Enormous Wings From 25 Nov: During a thunderstorm, an old man with enormous wings crashes to earth in a flurry of feathers. Nothing will ever be the same again! For over-sevens. Please check for times. Adult £14; child £12. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.
Babe, the Sheep-Pig From 25 Nov: A cute story about a polite piglet who hangs with the sheep, inspired by a film and book. Ideal for children aged five to 11. Please check for times. Adult £18.50; child £12. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.
Let’s Fly To 20 Nov: A girl who knows how to fly has some
fun with her secret power. Suitable for two to six year olds. Adult £10; child £8. Please check for times. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 0207226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.
The Owl who was Afraid of the Dark To 21 Nov: Plop is a baby barn owl
who is learning to fly. He’s afraid of the dark, so his mother sends him on several missions to find out more about night time. For ages two to eight. Please check for times. Adult £16; child £10. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Watch the smash-hit Beautiful – The Carole King Musical (p. 42)
KING LEAR IMAGE © ELLIE KURTTZ/RSC; CAROL KING IMAGE COURTESY OF BEAUTIFUL - THE CAROL KING MUSICAL
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KING LEAR IMAGE © ELLIE KURTTZ/RSC; CAROL KING IMAGE COURTESY OF BEAUTIFUL - THE CAROL KING MUSICAL
Royal Opera House
Classical events hall. 22 Nov: English Chamber Orchestra. Christopher Park plays piano. Tickets £10-£35. Check for full schedule. www.cadogan hall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 0207730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.
Beautiful home to the English National Opera. All productions are sung in English. To 3 Dec: Tosca. Puccini’s classic opera about singer Tosca’s love for an artist. But when passion and politics collide, love proves to be a fatal weakness. Set in Rome at the time of Napoleon’s invasion of Italy, Catherine Malfitano’s insightful production stars soprano Keri Alkema as Tosca. Puccini specialist Oleg Caetani conducts. Please check for times. Tickets £30-£105. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
From 23 Nov: The Nutcracker. Tchaikovsky’s score is brought to life by The Royal Ballet. Check for times. Tickets £32-£154. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Royal Albert Hall London’s premiere music hall and home to the annual BBC Proms. 17-20 Nov: Classical Spectacular. Classical music by the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra and multi-coloured lasers create an electrifying show. 7.30pm & 3pm on 19-20 Nov. Tickets £43.30-£68.80. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. South Kensington.
Sadler’s Wells To 3 Dec: Out of Asia 2. Works by dance companies and four independent choreographers. Check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Avenue, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.
St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp. org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals. www.smitf.org. St Martinin-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD Cadogan Hall 1 Nov: The RAF in Concert. Show tunes, classical
pieces, big-band numbers and military marches performed by Royal Air Force musicians. 12 Nov: Family Jazz All-Stars featuring Zoe Gilby. A tribute to jazz legends past and present. Please check for times and prices. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. F6. Station: Sloane Square.
The Jazz Café This live music and club specialises in jazz and funk. 4-5 Nov: Alexander O’Neal. Known for Saturday Love along with R&B classics such as If You Were Here Tonight. 7pm. Tickets £35. www.thejazzcafe london.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
Step back to the golden age of Hollywood movie musicals to celebrate the iconic dance moments made famous by FRED ASTAIRE, GINGER ROGERS, GENE KELLY and JUDY GARLAND.
Sunday 13th November THEATRE ROYAL DRURY LANE, LONDON
Hosted by RUSSELL GRANT Conducted by David Mahoney Choreographed by Alan Burkitt Plus west end dancers
RUTLIVE.CO.UK | 0844 412 4657
The O2 arena Enormous venue for live music. 1 Nov: Bastille. British indie band. 4 Nov: Selena Gomez. Hits from the US pop princess. 22-26 Nov: Rod Stewart. The rocker’s still got it. 23 Nov: Elvis in Concert. Wear your Blue Suede Shoes. 28-29 Nov: Justin Bieber. Pop. Check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club Legendary jazz venue. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Royal Albert Hall 3-5 Nov: Jurassic Park in Concert. Watch the classic film on a big screen with a live orchestra. 4 Nov: Soundtrack Silent Disco. Dance to your favourite film tunes. 6 Nov: Aliens Live. Watch the spooky sci-fi classic. 23 Nov: Symphonic Rock. Anthems from Queen, Tina Turner and Meat Loaf performed by the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra. Check for times and prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.
THURSDAY 17TH NOVEMBER LONDON PALLADIUM RUTLIVE.CO.UK | 0844 412 4657 ticketmaster.co.uk | eventim.co.uk
Senbla Live Events
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Festivals & Events Christmas in Leicester Square From 11 Nov: See Leicester Square transformed
into a Narnia-like world for the first time as it opens with a Christmas market, Santa’s grotto and Belgian spiegeltent, which will host cabaret group La Soirée. Admission free. www.visit london.com. Leicester Square, WC2H. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Hyde Park Winter Wonderland From 18 Nov: One of the UK’s biggest winter festivals is now in its 10th year. As well as a Bavarian market, traditional fairground and big wheel, there are ice sculptures and an enormous outdoor ice rink. There’s also a show tent for a circus, The Nutcracker on Ice and motorbike stunt show. Free admission. www.hydeparkwinterwonderland.com. Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 0300-061 2000. E6. Station: Hyde Park.
Winter Festival at Southbank Centre From 11 Nov: Enjoy strolling along the river bank
at this annual festive market. As well as German chalets selling mulled wine, sausages and hot chocolate, you can shop for presents, listen to carols by community choirs or pay to watch a circus show in a big-top tent. Admission free. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7960 4200. E8. Station: Waterloo.
EFG London Jazz Festival 11-20 Nov: This 10-day celebration of jazz delivers
a mix of world-class artists and emerging stars including Takuya Kuroda and Makaya McCraven (p. 6). Please check for times, prices and venues. www.efglondonjazzfestival.org.uk. Various venues around London.
the novello orchestra courtesy of broadway in concert
If you can’t decide which musical to watch, then why not watch the lot? Catch Broadway in Concert , a one-off show at the London Palladium (17 Nov; p. 42). Pop singer Matt Cardle will be joined by musical theatre stars Ben Forster (Jesus Christ Superstar ), Sophie Evans ( The Wizard of Oz ), Lee Mead (Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat ) and Kerry Ellis (Wicked ) as they sing hits from the biggest musicals. The performers will be accompanied by The Novello Orchestra.
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THE NOVELLO ORCHESTRA COURTESY OF BROADWAY IN CONCERT
St Andrew’s Day
YOU’LL FEEL THE EARTH MOVE!
30 Nov: Celebrate St Andrew’s Day. St Andrew is the patron saint of Scotland and St Andrew’s Day is Scotland’s official national day. It’s a bank holiday in Scotland (but not in London). Expect bagpipes, tartan, golf, whisky and haggis. www.visitlondon.com. Various venues.
FILM BFI Southbank 1 Nov: Boyz n the Hood. Will Tre (Cuba Gooding Jr) and his mates be able to escape a life of police harassment, drug addiction, poverty and gang violence? 2 Nov: Gregory Porter: Don’t Forget Your Music + Q&A with Gregory Porter. A new, in-depth documentary about the life and career of jazz singer Gregory Porter and his triumphant journey to musical success. 3 Nov: Josephine Baker and the Evolving Image of Black Women on Screen. Following a screening of Zou-Zou, starring the iconic and groundbreaking Josephine Baker, there will be a salon discussion exploring the evolution of the black female star in film, TV and popular culture. 8 Nov: 100 Streets + Q&A with Idris Elba. The lives of a group of Londoners become intertwined in Idris Elba’s new drama. 10 Nov: Pulp Fiction. Quentin Tarantino’s luridly entertaining, multi-stranded crime thriller won the Palme d’or at Cannes, and is jam-packed with tremendous performances from Samuel L Jackson, John Travolta and Uma Thurman. 14 Nov: Jackie Brown. Air stewardess Jackie Brown supplements her income by smuggling money for an ageing gangster, but hatches a plan to cash-in and outwit both the police and her criminal cohorts. Stars Pam Grier and Samuel L Jackson. 16 Nov: Selma. David Oyelowo gives a blistering performance as Dr Martin Luther King. 18 Nov: In the Heat of the Night. Sidney Poitier excels as a detective who faces racism while working on a murder case. 21 Nov: Stormy Weather. One of the best musicals of all time, this showcases many entertainers of the 1900s, including Fats Waller, Cab Calloway and the Nicholas Brothers. 24 Nov: Big Trouble in Little China. Action comedy in which a blue-collar trucker finds himself entangled in a mystical battle in San Francisco’s Chinatown. 25 Nov: Paterson. Adam Driver stars in this charming and thoughtful new film from Jim Jarmusch. 26 Nov: Le Doulous. Jean-Pierre Melville’s stylised film, set in the Paris underworld, stars Jean-Paul Belmondo. 27 Nov: Gregory’s Girl. Bill Forsyth’s quirky and often very funny charmer chronicles the progress of a Scottish schoolgirl whose soccer skills arouse resentment in her male team-mates. 28 Nov: Bleed for This. Champion boxer Vinny ‘Paz’ Pazienza was at the peak of his career when he suffered a near-fatal car crash. With everyone telling him he’ll never be able to walk again, he begins an agonising training regime in secret. One year after the accident, he returns to the ring... 29 Nov: Dirty Pretty Things. Stephen Frears directs Chiwetel Ejiofor in this tale about the murky underworld of illegal immigrants in London. www.bfi.org.uk. BFI Southbank, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XT. T: 020-7928 3232. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Visit BeautifulinLondon.co.uk Call 0845 200 7981
‘THE BEST WEST END MUSICAL FOR YEARS’ BBC RADIO 2
The Lounge at ODEON Whiteleys Watch films in the intimate screening rooms, with comfortable leather seats, while dining on a menu from chef Rowley Leigh, with the food served directly to your seat. Check programme for films. www.odeon.co.uk/thelounge. Whiteleys of Bayswater, Queensway, W2 4YL. T: 0871-2244 007. Off map. Station: Queensway.
THE STORY OF FRANKIE VALLI & THE FOUR SEASONS 0844 871 7630
ALSO PLAYING SUNDAYS
JerseyBoysLondon.com www.wheretraveler.com 49
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shopping | THE GUIDE This image: Lynne MacLachlan’s 3D-printed Nylonsponge from the Mesh Collection Below: Skyline earrings by Lucy Martin
A real gem The Tower of London is home to the Crown Jewels – London’s most famous gems – but this month they may be outsparkled as Dazzle London opens in the OXO Tower’s gallery@oxo (from 13 Nov). The exhibitioncum-shopping experience, now in its 35th year, is a staple in the fashion calendar. With pieces starting at £20 and going up to £5,000, it’s a great place to buy a one-off gift. The exhibition started in 1981 as a way to create more activities in Manchester’s Royal Exchange Theatre’s foyer. ‘We had to take £1,000 during the course of Dazzle, but we ended up taking £10,000 on the opening night,’ says Tony Gordon, co-founder and director of Dazzle London. ‘We have helped launch the careers of hundreds of enormously talented designers, and have encouraged some wild experimentation that has contributed to exciting developments in jewellery design’. Today, Dazzle London is the oldest and largest contemporary jewellery exhibition in Europe. This year’s event includes works by established
designers who dress A-list celebrities as well as those who have recently graduated. One of Dazzle’s aims is to promote new talent, so the selection feels fresh and cutting edge. All of the designers have one thing in common: the passion to create handmade goods. There are up to 4,000 pieces for men and women from 80 jewellery designers from across the world. Designers include Belgian Jelka Quintelier’s brand Black Lune, which produces laser-cut
necklaces; Lynne MacLachlan’s vibrant geometric earrings, necklaces and bangles that are made using 3D printing; and custom-made earrings by Lucy Martin. Flora Bhattachary‘s fine jewellery is particularly impressive. The gold pieces are inspired by the romance of India’s past. The lotus diamond Lakshmi ring, for example, is inspired by the Hindu goddess of prosperity and symbolises luck and fortune, while the Baoli pavé ring is made to order and imitates the geometry of water across India. The location of Dazzle London is just as spectacular as the event itself. Three years ago, Dazzle London moved to the OXO Tower, an icon that sits on the South Bank and contains a gallery, craft shops and the OXO Tower restaurant, which provides a spectacular view over the city. Go on, be dazzled! Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7021 1600. www.dazzle-exhibition.co.uk
Lynne MacLachlan’s Mesh Collection in 3D Printed Nylon and Skyline Earrings by Lucy Martin both courtesy of dazzle london
It’s time to visit the iconic OXO Tower on the South Bank, says Kohinoor Sahota, as Dazzle London showcases more than 4,000 handmade pieces for men and women from new and established jewellery designers
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John Bell & Croyden
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River Pandora Island Watches of Swarovski Switzerland Russell & Hour Passion W Bromley EIGHH O
Phase Eight The Disney Store Beige Debenhams (W1G 8TR) Gap The Toy Store
ST R AT FO RD
Selfridges O XFrench F O R Connection
B IR D ST
MARBLE ARCH (0.2miles)
OX FO RD CI RC US
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Tissot O X F O R DHouse of FraserJohn Lewis The Body G R E AT C A S T L E S T R E E T Gianmarco Lorenzi STR Shop EASTCASTLE ST U S EBosideng All Saints ST EET Massimo Clarks H&M Nike Town Browns Dutti Duke Street Zara MARKET PLA Hobbs CE Pronovias Swatch River Island Topshop Butler & Wilson Emporium Pandora Ernest Jones Ted Baker OXFO Ermenegildo Boudi RD S United Colors of Benetton Zegna Gap Mephisto TREE Tezenis T PRINCES Thomas Sabo ST OXFORD T.M.Lewin Mango River Island Ted Baker CIRCUS Penhaligon’s Russell & Bromley Omega Karen Millen Tru Diamonds M&S BLinks R O OofKLondon Apple Store STREE Dune Halcyon Days RAMILLIES PL Lacoste T Pomellato Armani Exchange Longchamp L.K.Bennett HANOVER S All Saints T Fenwick Victoria’s Secret Molton Brown H&M B R O O K Anya Hindmarch ’S MEW Banana Republic SMontblanc 7 For All Mankind D&G GROSVE Z Zegna Boss NOR SQ Emporio Armani Liberty COS Agent Provocateur Pal Zileri Hobbs Mulberry T GROSVE Desigual Canali NOR STR X STumi O F.Pinet EET D D Camper Gap M AD D OX S T Kipling MA Breitling Bally Clarks Vivienne The East India Belstaff MOUNT Jaeger R O W Westwood Wempe Company G R O S V EIWC N O RSchaffhausen Juicy Couture HILL Coach Vivienne Church's T Zilli Hamleys Smythson Westwood E E T EE R T Fendi MAN T R Hackett N S Links of London Watch Store MOUNT B O U R D OPolo Ralph Lauren S Hublot ST T Gant Boss UI E & Bromley Russell Jimmy Choo Kate Spade New York PLAC INGTON PLACE ND TON LaliqueNEW BURL Bose BRU CO BROADWICK ST Levi’s Tory Burch Vivienne Westwood Lucie Reiss Temperley London Miu Miu Campbell Michael Kors Calvin Klein ET ET TON ST STRE Burberry NEW BURLING Hermès Guess TRE O R DTateossian CLIFF ON S T & U H Anthropologie J. Crew Michael Kors COAC S BR ET HORSE Massimo Dutti Watches of STRE YARD CHANEL BEAK Louis Vuitton Kenzo Paul Smith Switzerland T RD S Dior Brooks Brothers CLIFFO Karl Lagerfeld Boucheron G O L DE N Ice Bar Tommy Hilfiger Patek Philippe Swarovski TON ST Mappin & Webb Georg Jensen G R A FAsprey Adler Bulgari PL Chopard REGENT Harry Winston For a VIP shopping experience, visit T.M.Lewin S Q U A R E Bregeut Penhaligon’s Folli Follie Van Cleef & Arpels Burberry NEW CAVE River Island’s complimentary personal Cartier NDISH ST Zara Graff LL I EET H Boodles Y Mikimoto H&A Co & Hawkes Mango STR styling service for men and women. ER Ralph LaurenG D N SGieves VIGO ST W E HAM YARD VILLAGE David Morris GTON Viyella B R Reiss The Style Studio is located in selected Salvatore B U R L I N Ferragamo GL Dover St Tiffany&Co Brummells AS BURLINGTON ARCADE SH Austin Reed stores, including the Marble Arch CHANEL Market of London Chatila O Superdry Charles UTyrwhitt QUEEN ANNE STREET SE DKNY ROYAL ARCADE ST Jo Malone Max Mara flagship. Whether it’s a wardrobe DENMAN Calleija ST Moss Bros. UGG Australia RE Prada Hollister R E Rolex ET overhaul or seasonal update, the Coach ET Penhaligon’s Gap Leviev Hunter Omega service 30 minutes, an hour or Saint Laurent W I G M Otakes Wolford RE STREET Daks Barbour Gucci two hours. The experience comes The Highlands La Perla Whittard of Chelsea Marina Rinaldi Dolce & Gabbana with complimentary bubbles, too! Kiehls PICCADILLY Vertu Alexander McQueen CIRCUS GREEN PARK Barbour 473 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. Cartier Tod’s (100yards) International Y L L De Beers T: 0344-334 0506. Mappin & Webb PICCADI H E N R I E T TA P Fortnum LACE Tumi www.riverisland.com/stylestudio & Mason Osprey London Hawes Cath Kidston Bates Hatters & Curtis Alfred EET Links of RLondon Dunhill J E R M Y N S T Emmett Jones Bootmaker Paxton & Whitfield T.M.Lewin Church’s Hackett Longmire Thomas Pink The United Colors of Benetton’s BOND STREET
LO W ER ST JA ME S
LO W ER ST JO H N
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clothing collection for women, men and children offers a style universally recognised as encompassing design, taste and a sense of beauty, which reflects the Italian style of the brand. United Colors of Benetton, 255-259 Regent St, W1B 2ER. T: 020-7647 4200. www.world.benetton.com
G T P U LT E N E Y S T
UP PE R ST
JA ME S
U P P ER ST JO H N
T TREE ABY S
TRE LY S
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ET L E ST RE
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AL BE M AR
REET CORK ST
United Colors of Benetton
ST GEORGE STREET
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FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE WHERE PASS LONDON, VISIT WHEREPASSLONDON.COM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most shops are open 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, Sun 11am-4pm, and some open late on Thur evening. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73
Covetable fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods at this trusted department store. Mon-Wed; Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Fenwick Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Hamleys One of the world’s biggest toy shops. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Harrods Edwardian food halls and luxury men and women’s fashion. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Westfield Stratford City PASS PARTNER Europe’s largest shopping centre. www.westfield. com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Off map. Station: Stratford.
JEWELLERY & WATCHES
The finest products in beauty and fashion. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Jewellery, including charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS
Wempe Big selection of luxury jewellery and watches. www.wempe.com. 43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 020-7493 2299. E6. Station: Bond Street.
The epitome of heritage combined with cutting-edge design. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
PASS PARTNER Discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven in Oxfordshire. Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicestervillage.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.
House of Fraser
Fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseoffraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
PASS PARTNER This mall is home to more than 300 shops. www.westfield.com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
This is one of the capital’s oldest shops and is a treasure chest of wonderful teas and infusions. Mon-Fri 9.30am- 8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
NICKELODEON STORE LONDON
Buckingham Palace Shop
Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.
Visit us in-store at Leicester Square OR on-line at www.nickelodeonSTORE.co.uk
purchases over £35. Valid until 30th November 2016. purchase To redeem, brbring this coupon into the store or use promo code ode on-line:GIFT on-line: GIFTFTF
Limit one per person, per visit. Cannot be combined with other coupons or discounts. May not be redeemed any other retail ret tail locations. © 2016 Viacom International Inc. All Rights Reserved. SpongeBob SquarePants created by Stephen Hillenburg. TEENAGE MU MUTANT NINJA TURTLES © Viacom Overseas Holdings C.V. © 2016 Spin Master. All Rights Reserved.
WL NOV SHOPPING.indd 53
DINING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: slow-cooked ballotine of organic turkey at Christopher’s; pumpkin pie at Christopher’s; almond-flavoured pumpkin soup with crab meat at Royal China; The Botanist
A time to give thanks For centuries, Thanksgiving (24 Nov) has been the highlight of the US culinary calendar. It may not be a public holiday in the UK, but that doesn’t stop London from indulging too. From traditional fare to contemporary creations, we’ve rounded up the Thanksgiving menus to be thankful for this year, whether or not you’re American. At the restaurant CUT, inside luxury five-star hotel 45 Park Lane, you can enjoy a delicious three-course feast of roasted pumpkin soup with cranberry-quince compote, roast turkey with wild mushroom stuffing, and red jewel sweet potato gratin. For dessert, Thanksgiving staples take on a more modern guise – think pumpkin cheesecake. Wash it all down with My Kind of Gravy, a specially created cocktail made with bourbon and cinnamon, lemon and blueberry compote, which is a popular turkey garnish (45 Park Lane, W1K 1PN ). With its light, airy dining room and collection of natural curiosities, The Botanist is a tranquil spot to enjoy a bite to eat in Chelsea. Usually
the menu leans towards classic British and modern European cuisine, so it’s a real treat to see some Thanksgiving specials of grilled venison chops with chestnut purée, pumpkin and mushroom croquettes, roast Norfolk turkey and frosted pumpkin cake with roasted hazelnuts. The bar area is also perfect for solo dining (7 Sloane Square, SW1W 8EE ). If it’s the heady glamour of modern America that you’re seeking, then look no further than
Christopher’s in Covent Garden. Housed within a Grade II-listed building that was once London’s first licensed casino, this elegant restaurant boasts a Thanksgiving menu with fish and vegetarian options. If you can resist the lure of favourites such as corn chowder and slow-cooked organic turkey, then try the Maryland crab cake followed by Missouri-rubbed rack of lamb. Here, the pumpkin pie is taken to new heights with a honey-bourbon Chantilly cream (18 Wellington St, WC2E 7DD ). Thanksgiving takes on an oriental twist at Royal China on Baker Street, with sumptuous dishes including almond and pumpkin soup with crab meat, empress chicken with ginger and spring onion, and apple in toffee syrup (24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ ). Fancy a nightcap? Stop off at one of the world’s best bars, Nightjar (p. 66), for a Cocktail a la Louisiane and you’ll be giving thanks in no time (all the above menus are available on 24 Nov only).
turkey dish courtesy of christopher’s; pumpkin pie courtesy of christopher’s; royal china soup © Chalky Whyte; the botanist interior courtesy of the botanist
The American festival of Thanksgiving sees some of London’s best restaurants creating very special menus of seasonal treats. Sam Rogg raises the stars and stripes flag to investigate
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For more information on the where pass london, visit wherepasslondon.com
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch) D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 72-73
AmericaS (NORTH & SOUTH)
Intimate restaurant serving tasty dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
This hip hotel restaurant in an old fire station serves US-style dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chilternfirehouse.com. 1 Chiltern St, W1U 7PA. T: 020-7073 7676. D6. Station: Baker Street.
The Colony Grill Room The wood-panelled dining room inside The Beaumont evokes 1920s America with old-world US grill fare. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.colonygrill room.com. The Beaumont, 8 Balderton St, W1K 6TN. T: 020-7499 9499. D6. Station: Bond Street.
City Social This award-winning restaurant and bar from Jason Atherton boasts beautiful views across the city. £££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Dinner by Heston Bluemnthal
This New York-style steakhouse serves top-quality grain-fed beef in T-bone, rib-eye sirloin and fillet. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.goodmanrestaurants.com. 26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Experience the first London restaurant from this superchef, with a menu influenced by historic British gastronomy. ££££. Daily L & D; booking essential. www.dinnerbyheston.com. Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7201 3833. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Hard Rock Cafe
Fera at Claridge’s
London’s original burger joint is stuffed full of rock memorabilia. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Heliot Steak House Steak house at the Hippodrome Casino. £££. Daily L & D. www.hippodromecasino.com. Hippodrome Leicester Square, 42-43 Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Oblix Rise up to the 32nd floor of London landmark The Shard for ultra-sophisticated New York-style grill cuisine and amazing views. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Chef Simon Rogan serves food made with organic ingredients. The Aulis dining room lets guests get close to the chef. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges. co.uk/fera. Claridge’s Hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Garfunkel’s A range of popular British dishes, plus pizzas, pasta, wraps and a salad bar. Many West End and central locations. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.garfunkels.co.uk. 19 Irving St, WC2H 7AU (and branches). T: 0207930 8087. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the Reading Room. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Russell Square.
Holborn Dining Room Smart brasserie serving classic British dishes with a twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborn diningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.
St Pancras Grand Brasserie located in St Pancras International station. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys.co.uk. Upper
Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
British (Traditional) Café in the Crypt Underneath this landmark Palladian church, this café serves great English food at reasonable prices. £. Mon-Sat B; daily L. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, corner of Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.
Mews of Mayfair Stunning four-floored venue includes a British brasserie, a private dining room, a lounge and cocktail bar, an art gallery and a courtyard with al fresco tables. Excellent Sunday roast lunch. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Planet Hollywood Huge London outlet of the international chain. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planet hollywoodlondon.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therainforest cafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Rileys Sports Bar This sports bar serves steak, burgers and an all-day breakfast. There are 34 screens, table football, ping pong and darts. £. Mon-Sun B, L & D. www.rileys sportsbars.co.uk. 80 Haymarket, SW1Y 4TE. T: 020-79300 393. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
STK London benihana courtesy of benihana
royal china soup © Chalky Whyte; the botanist interior courtesy of the botanist
Dine in the ME London hotel’s steakhouse on British and American prime steaks. There is a raw bar, too. ££££. Daily D (from 5pm). www.stkhouse.com. ME Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 020-7395 3450. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
JW Steakhouse Steakhouse offering dry-aged American USDA prime beef with a variety of sides, starters and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
A class act Dine at Benihana (p. 59) and you won’t just enjoy a Japanese meal – you’ll have front-row seats for a private performance, too. That’s because up to six guests are seated around each hibachi, or open-top grill, on which a chef cooks while entertaining you. They’ll be drumming with a salt shaker, twirling spatulas and throwing eggs in the air and catching them in their hat – they might even stack onion rings until they resemble a volcano, then cook them until smoke erupts from the crater! The menu consists of meat or fish dishes that are cooked together on the grill, so it’s unsuitable for vegetarians. A traditional hibachi dinner comes with onion soup, salad with ginger dressing, vegetables, prawns, egg-fried rice and a main dish – the miso black cod is a tough act to follow. www.wheretraveler.com 55
WL NOV DINING.indd 55
DINING Park Terrace
Galvin at Windows
Located in the Royal Garden Hotel London, the restaurant overlooks Kensington Gardens. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.parkterracerestaurant.co.uk. 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7937 8000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
Located in Harrods, feast on luxury food such as Wagyu beef and sea bass. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Michelin-starred restaurant serving modern haute cuisine. Booking essential; smart dress. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvin atwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
The Ritz Restaurant
Award-winning restaurant and bar. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat last orders 12.30am. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
One of London’s prettiest dining rooms. Men should wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.the ritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.
Rules Long-established restaurant where Charles Dickens ate. ££££. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon-10.30pm. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 0207836 5314. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar Relaxed bar-restaurant in Theatreland. Try the Aberdeen Angus roast beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk. 29-31 Wellington St, WC2E 7DB (and Chelsea branch). T: 020-7836 8836. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Wolseley The magnificent dining room sets the scene for this famous brasserie. Daily, from 7am. £££. www.thewolseley.com. 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB. T: 020-7499 6996. E7. Station: Green Park.
Min Jiang Superb Sichuan cuisine. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988. F3. Station: High Street Kensington.
Royal China Club This huge Cantonese restaurant is popular for its dim sum. ££. Daily L & D. www.royalchinagroup. co.uk. 24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches). T: 020-7487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.
Contemporary European 1 Lombard Street
Gutsy, modern cooking. Brasserie £££; Restaurant ££££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L. www.1lombard street.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.
Bright Courtyard Club
Cantonese and Shanghai dishes are served here in a sophisticated setting. £££. Daily L & D. www.brightcourtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.
This venue’s menu is inspired by Europe’s grand cafés. ££££. Mon-Fri from 7am; Sat from 8am; Sun from 9am. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.
The Ivy One of London’s great restaurants and a favourite with celebrities. £££-££££. Daily L & D. Last orders at midnight. www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
SixtyOne A sophisticated restaurant serving great food with big, bold flavours. £££. Tue-Sat L & D. www.sixty onerestaurant.co.uk. 61 Upper Berkeley St, W1H 7PP. T: 020-7958 3222. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Ting Located on level 35 of The Shard, this restaurant serves European dishes with an Asian influence. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.
Fish and Seafood J Sheekey Chic fish restaurant. ££££. Daily L & D. www.jsheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Mr Fish Enjoy traditional British fish and chips, or try halibut or sea bass fried in breadcrumbs. £. Daily L & D. www.mrfishuk.com. 51 Salusbury Rd, NW6 6NJ. T: 020-7624 8181. Off map. Station: Queen’s Park.
Poppie’s Try fish dishes, including a seafood platter, plaice fillets and homemade fish cakes. £. Daily L & D. www.poppies.com. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square
The Sea Shell Stick with classic fish and chips, or try dishes such as goujons of lemon sole. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.sea shellrestaurant.co.uk. 49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. C5. Station: Marylebone.
FRENCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Exquisite food and a setting to dress up for from this Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester. com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 0207629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Traditional Neapolitan street food is given a healthy twist at ’O ver in London Bridge, the UK’s first restaurant to use pure seawater in all its dishes, rather than conventional table salt. Situated in the heart of London’s foodie district, near Borough Market, the curiously named ’O ver turns wood-fired pizzas, fresh pasta and homemade breads into (almost) guilt-free pleasures by using micro-filtered seawater, which has a natural composition of more than 96 minerals which are beneficial to the human body. A bright, spacious dining room makes it ideal for a quick cicchetti at lunch or a relaxed evening meal. 44 Southwark St, SE1 1UN. www.overuk.com. T: 020-7378 9933. E10. Station: London Bridge
Bel Canto Waiters perform opera while you dine. Enjoy their arias as you dine on dishes such as pan-fried beef fillet. £££. Wed-Sat D. www.belcantolondon.co.uk. Corus Hotel Hyde Park, 1 Lancaster Gate, W2 3LG. T: 020-7262 1678. E4. Station: Lancaster Gate.
Boundary Terence Conran’s modern French restaurant. £££. Tue-Sat D. www.theboundary.co.uk. 2-4 Boundary St, E2 7DD. T: 020-7729 1051. Off map. Station: Shoreditch High Street.
image courtesy of ‘o ver
Guilty (free) pleasures
A combination of a Parisian salon and a Provençal bistro. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.aubaine.co.uk. 260-262 Brompton Rd, SW3 2AS (and branches). T: 020-7052 0100. F5. Station: South Kensington.
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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: email@example.com Private dining room seats 14
The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in Londonâ€™s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday. Saturday Brunch with live jazz music. 73 St Jamesâ€™s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: firstname.lastname@example.org Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16
Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: email@example.com Private dining room seats 24
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Serves classics such as tuna tartare and duck fillet. ££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasserie joel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Brasserie Zédel French brasserie and bar (p. 64). £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasseriezedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Céleste Michelin-starred French-inspired cuisine in an elegant dining room at The Lanesborough hotel. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Clos Maggiore Romantic dining room with a great wine list, featuring more than 2,300 bins. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Club Gascon Imaginative Michelin-starred French cuisine from Gascony and an award-winning wine list. £££-££££. Tue-Fri L; Mon-Sat D. www.clubgascon.com. 57 West Smithfield, EC1A 9DS. T: 020-7600 6144. D9. Station: Farringdon.
Galvin Bistrot de Luxe The highly regarded Galvin brothers’ classic Parisian-style bistro. ££££. Daily L & D. www.galvin restaurants.com. 66 Baker St, W1U 7DJ. T: 020-7935 4007. D6. Station: Baker Street.
Le Pont de la Tour Riverside restaurant serves classic French dishes. £££. Daily L & D. www.lepontdelatour.co.uk. 36d Shad Thames, SE1 2YE. T: 020-7403 8403. Off map. Station: London Bridge.
Gastropubs The Eagle One of London’s first gastropubs; it is still very popular. ££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.theeagle farringdon.co.uk. 159 Farringdon Rd, EC1R 3AL. T: 020-7837 1353. D9. Station: Farringdon. Classic dining room with an adjacent bar, serving top-quality British produce. £££. Daily L & D. www.thethomascubitt.co.uk. 44 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9PA. T: 020-7730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria.
The Wells This bright and airy pub boasts top-quality British cuisine. ££. Daily L & D. www.thewellshampstead. co.uk. 30 Well Walk, NW3 1BX. T: 020-7794 3785. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
Indian Amaya Karunesh Khanna’s Michelin-starred food is cooked in the dramatic show kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. 19 Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Chor Bizarre This popular restaurant specialises in cuisine from North India. £££. Mon-Sat L; daily D. www.chor bizarre.com. 16 Albermarle St, W1S 4HW. T: 0207629 9802. E7. Station: Green Park.
Chutney Mary Expect a delicious gourmet tour of seven different Indian regions. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.
Gaylord This long-established restaurant is famed for its award-winning tandoori and Mughlai-based cuisine. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus. Great vegetarian and fish dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.khansofkensington.co.uk. 3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. G4. Station: South Kensington.
La Porte des Indes
One of Gloucester Road’s most treasured family-run restaurants delivers exactly what its name suggests: a little slice of India. Cosy and homely yet modern, Little India serves dishes from the subcontinent that are big on flavour and complexity. It’s got a varied menu of classic dishes, from a tasty chicken tikka masala to a monster tandoori mixed grill. With less than 10 tables in the restaurant, the staff are highly knowledgeable and can vary spice levels to cater for all tastes, and can help you choose, too. Wash it down with a delicious mango lassi.
For the quintessential English experience, stop for an afternoon tea with a twist
The Thomas Cubitt
Khan’s of Kensington
Time for tea
Indian cuisine with a Gallic twist, inspired by the Pondicherry region. £££. Daily L & D. www.la portedesindes.com. 32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
Little India This cosy establishment specialises in dishes from Bengal. ££. Daily L & D. www.littleindia london.com. 32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4. Station: Gloucester Road.
Masala Grill A relaxed space offering grills, seafood, street food and curries. ££. Daily L & D; Sun L & D. www.masala grill.co. 535 King’s Rd, SW10 0SZ. T: 020-7351 3113. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
Masala Zone Informal dining in this good-value restaurant. Tuck into a grand thali. £. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Memories of India Authentic North Indian flavours. ££. Daily L & D. www.memoriesofindia.com. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.
THE CHESTERFIELD Kids and grown-ups alike will love the Charlie and the Chocolate Factory afternoon tea at this boutique Mayfair hotel, featuring whimsical creations in honour of 100 years since Roald Dahl’s birth. The children’s Oompa Loompa Tea menu includes Wonka Bars, while you can also enjoy blueberry macaroons and traditional favourites of sandwiches and chocolate-dusted scones served with jam and cream. Don’t forget your everlasting gobstopper, candy cane and golden ticket on the way out. Look inside the special envelope – you might have won a weekend stay or a magnum of Champagne. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com
LANCASTER LONDON HOTEL This venue has teamed up with local art curator Barbara Stanley to create ARTea, an afternoon tea for creative types. Browse rotating exhibitions of local and international creatives such as Irish artist Norman Teeling’s modern scenic paintings before dipping into a painter’s box stuffed with finger sandwiches, mini quiches, macarons and sweet tarts featuring edible paintings. Scones are served on slates alongside jam and clotted cream concealed in 30ml paint tubes – even the waiters wear painting aprons! Lancaster Terrace, W2 2TY. T: 020-7551 6000. www.lancasterlondon.com
GROSVENOR HOUSE An afternoon tea fit for a queen awaits you at this Park Lane hotel, inside the refurbished Park Room (above). Created to celebrate the Queen’s 90th birthday earlier this year, this regal spread includes a selection of delicate finger sandwiches filled with coronation chicken, cucumber and minted butter, and honey-roast Yorkshire ham. There are also a couple of gourmet open sandwiches topped with smoked salmon and egg mayonnaise. Pair your buttermilk scones with gooseberry jam before tucking into seasonal pastries such as ‘The Queen’s chocolate biscuit cake’ and Windsor honey Dundee cake. Speciality Royal blend teas are the tipple of choice. 86-90 Park Lane, W1K 7TN. T: 020-7499 6363. www.marriott.co.uk
grosvenor house afternoon tea © Richard Waite Photography; little india image courtesy of little india
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DINING Mint Leaf
Contemporary dishes are the trademark of this stylish venue. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mint leafgroup.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Outstanding small plates of meat, fish and pasta. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7240 6339. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Great sashimi, sushi and tempura. ££££. Daily L & D. www.noburestaurants.com. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 4747. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant now has a well-deserved Michelin star. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 0207734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Authentic pizza and pasta. £. Daily L & D. www.rosso pomodoro.co.uk. John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX. T: 020-7629 7711. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
International The Cavendish Fish, meats and salads are prepared as you watch. ££. Daily L & D. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.
SushiSamba Fusion of Japanese and Brazilian food. £££. Daily L & D. www.sushisamba.com. 38th Floor, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 0203640 7330. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Italian Bella Italia
Casual dining and authentic flavours of Italy. ££. Daily L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.
japanese & korean Benihana Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table (p. 55). £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 0207494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Engawa Choose from three, five and eight-course tasting menus at this small but excellent sushi spot. £££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Matsuri Specialises in sushi and teppanyaki. £££. Daily L & D. www.matsuri-restaurant.com. 15 Bury St, SW1Y 6AL. T: 020-7839 1101. E7. Station: Green Park.
Yasmeen Authentic dishes influenced by Lebanon and Syria. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant.com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921. Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.
riverside Bateaux London See London’s sights on a river cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with three-course L. Evening cruises. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.
London Showboat Drift down the Thames while enjoying a four-course dinner. Nightly £80 per person. Departs Westminster Pier 7.30pm. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
RS Hispaniola Moored restaurant boat serving modern European cuisine. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.
grosvenor house afternoon tea © Richard Waite Photography; little india image courtesy of little india
Pizzas, lasagne and pasta. ££. Daily B, L & D (and branches). www.bellaitalia.co.uk. 100 Baker St, W1U 6WG. T: 020-3058 3458. D6. Station: Baker Street.
Middle Eastern, Greek & Turkish
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CHRISTMAS PARTY 3 courses from £35pp
Call 020 7958 7000 firstname.lastname@example.org 43 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0PP www.bbarlondon.com
Perfect Peruvian King’s Road is full of fashion followers and trendsetters, but take a 10-minute stroll towards World’s End and you’ll find the atmosphere takes on a lovely local feel. A new Peruvian restaurant, Chicama, recently opened here and it’s guaranteed to become a neighbourhood favourite. Specialising in seafood, the fish is delivered daily from Cornwall – try the John Dory charred over charcoal, with a dollop of avocado jalapeno, mango and aji limo on the side. We also recommend the popped corn monkfish; crab salad with green papaya and daikon; and the salmon with red quinoa and coconut. 383 King’s Rd, SW10 0LP. T: 020-3874 2000. www.chicamalondon.com. Off map. Station: Sloane Square
south-East Asian Chi Kitchen
HOME STYLE COOKING ‘Temple to good taste’ One of the few Indian restaurants owned and managed by a lady. Dinner bookings are strongly recommended as Little India is really little!
A great selection of excellent pan-Asian cuisine on the ground floor of department store Debenhams. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
House of Ho Four-storey townhouse serving exceptional Vietnamese cuisine. Try the Wagyu short rib hot and cold pho. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.houseof ho.co.uk. 1 Percy St, W1T 1DB. T: 020-7323 9130. D7. Station: Goodge Street.
Moro North Africa meets Spain in this highly regarded Moorish restaurant serving dishes such as duck fattee with chickpea pilaf. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.
Vegetarian Amico Bio
Elegant restaurant serving classic Thai dishes. Try the sea bass wrapped in banana leaf. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.
Good-value Italian eatery that uses organic ingredients from the owner’s farm in Italy. Try the tagliolini pasta with tofu, tomato and aubergines. £-££. Daily L & D. www.amicobio.co.uk. 44 Cloth Fair, EC1A 7JQ. T: 020-7600 7778. D9. Station: Barbican.
This popular spot serving freshly prepared Thai food has stylish décor and truly fantastic food. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Tel: 020 7584 3476 020 7589 9315
Traditional dishes are given a modern twist on a menu created by award-winning chef Nacho Manzano. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.iberica restaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ. T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.
32 Gloucester Road, London SW7 4RB
Enjoy dozens of delicious dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed veggie restaurant-bar. Choose from crunchy fresh salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 0207758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
This busy tapas bar-restaurant in the heart of Mayfair serves excellent hot and cold dishes, including cured meats and fresh seafood. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Well-flavoured cuisine from throughout India. Enjoy delicious dishes such as cashew pakoras and Mysore masala dosa. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.
chicama courtesy of chicama
Private Events for up to 300 guests
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CHICAMA COURTESY OF CHICAMA
ENJOY THE THALI AT
REAL INDIAN FOOD SPECIAL DEALS AT LUNCH
HOLLYWOOD INSPIRED DINING IN THE HEART OF LONDON
BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD
CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST
M ASA L A ZO N E .CO M
APPETISERS • STEAKS • RIBS FA J I TA S • B U R G E R S • F I S H PA S TA S • P I Z Z A S • A S I A N SALADS•SANDWICHES D E S S E R T S • C O C K TA I L S
RESTAURANT OPEN ‘TIL MIDNIGHT (11PM SUN) BAR OPEN ‘TIL 1AM (MIDNIGHT SUN)
FOOD/SOFT DRINKS/MERCHANDISE Not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Payment by cash or debit/credit card only. Discount applies to a la carte menu (excluding kids’ menu). Valid daily (except 5pm to 9pm Saturday) until 30/12/16. Not valid 25/12/16. Subject to availability. 1 voucher per table maximum 8 persons. Code WHERE. Please show this advert to your server before ordering.
S AVOUR THE AU THENTIC FL AVOURS OF INDIA
Experience Indian food as it’s meant to be at Masala Grill. With our expertly cooked regional dishes and richly decorated restaurant, a visit to Masala Grill (in the former home of Chutney Mary) is a feast for all the senses. We’re open every evening for dinner and on Sundays for our famous buffet lunch. Rediscover your passion for Indian food at Masala Grill. 535 KINGS ROAD LONDON SW10 0SZ 020 7351 7788 | MASALAGRILL.CO | RESERVATIONS@MASALAGRILL.CO
TO BOOK PLEASE CALL
020 7287 1000 planethollywoodlondon.com
57-60 HAYMARKET LONDON SW1Y 4QX
TUBE: PICCADILLY CIRCUS OR LEICESTER SQ
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best of london dining Chi Kitchen Contemporary pan-Asian restaurant Chi Kitchen opened last year on the ground floor of Debenhams on Oxford Street. The word ‘chi’, in Chinese, means energy, and the restaurant strives to offer good energy, as well as great food, to hungry shoppers. The open-plan restaurant lets you watch the chefs prepare Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. Chi Kitchen will take you on a unique culinary journey through south-east Asia. Mention ‘Where London’ when you book to enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal at Chi Kitchen. Mon-Sat 7.30am-11pm (last orders 10.15pm); Sun 11.30am-10pm (last orders 9.15pm).
Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance), 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. www.chikitchen.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus
Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai cuisine and world-renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish environment. Its innovative yet classic cuisine is made from the finest ingredients. Enjoy genuine Thai dishes from the four main culinary regions: rich and mild dishes from the north, spicy food from the east, mild, Chinese-style dishes from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south. Mention ‘Where London’ when booking, and enjoy a free glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal. Monday-Wed noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11.30pm; Sun noon-10.30pm. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ (also in Harrods: 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL). T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria
Khans of Kensington Visit Khans of Kensington for delicious, genuine Indian cuisine that a core of devotees have been enjoying for many years. The restaurant prides itself on its modern take on traditional North Indian cuisine, with mouthwatering dishes such as its famous fish koliwada and lamb chop in honey sauce. The expansive menu covers many dishes, but if you don’t see your personal favourite on the menu, just ask the team of expert chefs and they will be more than happy to set that right. The restaurant is just a minute’s walk from South Kensington Tube station. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon-11pm.
Memories of India
3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. www.khansofkensington.co.uk. Station: South Kensington
At Memories of India you can explore and experience the many varied tastes of India, with traditional and creative Indian dishes with a twist of ingenuity. Relax and let the team of award-winning chefs take your taste buds on an exotic trip and an unforgettable dining experience. The dishes here contain the finest ingredients in order to create the uncompromising flavours of India. We have a private room for parties and corporate functions. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon-11pm. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450/020-7581 3734. www.memoriesofindia.com. Station: Gloucester Road.
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best of london dining Chai Wu Chai Wu is a contemporary Chinese restaurant, located on the fifth floor of the iconic department store, Harrods, in Knightsbridge. The restaurant design incorporates the five elements of Chinese philosophy: wood, metal, water, earth and fire, creating an elegant, opulent and welcoming dining setting. The tasty, exotic and colourful dishes reflect the finest of modern Chinese cuisine. The fantastic menu consists of small dishes such as black truffle sour soup and Chilean sea bass dumpling with gold leaf, as well as luxurious dishes including Beijing duck and wagyu steak. Mon-Sat noon-9pm (last orders are taken at 8.30pm); Sun noon-6pm (last orders 5.15pm).
5th Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge
For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. Informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park
Min Jiang Situated in the heart of Kensington, Min Jiang restaurant boasts breath-taking views over London’s skyline and offers authentic Chinese cuisine using the finest ingredients. Located on the tenth floor of the Royal Garden Hotel, Min Jiang is renowned for its legendary wood-fired Beijing duck, spicy Sichuan dishes and exquisite range of dim sum. Its contemporary private dining room, Chong Qing, offers a beautiful setting with a high ceiling and mirrored walls. Seating up to 20 guests, there is an impressive atmosphere to give you an occasion to remember. Daily noon-3pm & 6pm-10.30pm.
Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988. www.minjiang.co.uk. Station: High Street Kensington
Much-feted Chor Bizarre, on Albemarle Street in Mayfair, offers a distinctive ambience. Its fabulous interior has been given a makeover, with gorgeous furnishings sourced from bazaars in India. It’s not surprising that Chor Bizarre, the London branch of New Delhi’s eternal favourite, has been judged ‘one of the 50 most romantic places in the world’ and included ‘among the Top 10 Restaurants in London for Fun and Atmosphere’ by The Independent newspaper, as well as ‘The best North Indian Restaurant in the UK’ by The Cobra Good Curry Guide. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon-11pm. 16 Albemarle St, W1S 4HW. T: 020-7629 9802. www.chorbizarre.com. Station: Green Park
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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE
Life is a cabaret! What is cabaret? Despite its growing popularity in London, it’s a difficult thing to define – part comedy, part dance show, with a bit of theatre, circus and burlesque thrown in. In cabaret, there are no rules as anything goes. And whether you’re looking for a traditional dinner-and-show formula or something more unusual, London has it all! Taking over the beautiful 1920s Bloomsbury Ballroom in central London, The London Cabaret Club’s Best of British Pop (above and inset) is a classic feel-good cabaret night with a somewhat cheesy edge (it is pop, after all). Trace Britain’s incredible contribution to popular music in an all-singing, all-dancing odyssey from the Sixties up to the present day. Iconic pop anthems are in there from The Beatles, David Bowie, Rolling Stones, Amy Winehouse, the Spice Girls and Adele. The dance routines are flawlessly and rapidly delivered in a kaleidoscope of genres, from street dance and classical ballet to spectacular acrobatics. There’s even a cameo
by a dog who looks just like Paul McCartney’s beloved sheepdog, Martha. If you’re feeling peckish, opt for the three-course dinner option (a simple but satisfying offering), and after the show, the dance floor opens up to guests until 3am (from £35; Fri-Sat; Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA). Over in Soho, you can enjoy a smorgasbord of shows inside a grand Parisian-style venue. Live at Zédel at Brasserie Zédel (p. 58) is a programme of entertainment running until Christmas, featuring live music, theatre,
comedy, spoken word and, of course, cabaret, all staged inside Zédel’s dramatic Art Deco brasserie and neighbouring bar, Crazy Coqs. Hear Beatles songs like never before with Barb Jungr & John McDaniel (20 Nov), two giants of cabaret from both sides of the Atlantic. Enter the House of Q (23 Nov) for an awardwinning night of magic, burlesque, music, mime and more. And don’t even think about standing up Miss Hope Springs (24 Nov) in her five-star self-penned repertoire of hysterical stories. Described as a ‘theatre of varieties’, The Box Soho (like its New York sister club) is not for the faint-hearted. Spanning 7,000sqft and favoured by celebrities and royals for its decadent, risqué shows, tables come with a hefty minimum spend – anything from £750 to £1,500. There’s a strict no phones or cameras policy so what happens in The Box stays in The Box (11-12 Walker’s Court, W1F 0SD). As Liza Minnelli said: ‘Come hear the music play! Life is a cabaret, old chum!’
IMAGES COURTESY OF THE LONDON CABARET CLUB
Fancy a night on the town where all the rules are broken? Then watch one of the capital’s cabaret shows, where glitz and glamour are the leading stars, says Sam Rogg
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com
Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs are open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References near end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73
Traditional Pubs The Blackfriar This splendid Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub offers traditional cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs. co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 0207236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.
The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Lord Byron and Percy Bysshe Shelley as past patrons. www.theflask highgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.
The George Inn This historic pub was established during the Medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.
The Magpie & Stump This pub dates back to the 1500s, and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.
The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including Dick Turpin and novelist Charles Dickens. www.the spaniardshampstead.co.uk. Spaniard’s Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails in this basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music most nights (p. 54). www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.
This landmark venue has gaming on three floors, plus the Heliot Steak House. It also hosts live music, such as The Late Jazz Jam (every Thur from 11pm). www.hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Reverend JW Simpson This cocktail bar is the genuine ex-abode of the good reverend, proved by the Blue Plaque outside. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.
Scarfes Bar Elegant bar named after Gerald Scarfe, famous for his satirical illustrations, which hang around the room. www.scarfesbar.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. E7. Station: Holborn.
The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. www.the sportsmancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
Live Entertainment Angels Gentlemen’s Club Soho
Europe’s longest Champagne bar. www.searcys champagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras International, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Six show and cocktail stages plus Red Rooms, VIP booths and the Leopard Room where Peter Stringfellow’s ‘Angels’ dance at your table. The venue includes the Angel Bar and restaurant. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 201 Wardour St, W1F 8ZH. T: 020-7758 0670. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
The Whisky Bar
Searcys Champagne Bar
This specialist bar, at the beautiful Athenaeum hotel in Mayfair, has 270 different types of whisky. www.athenaeumhotel.com. 116 Piccadilly, W1J 7BJ. T: 020-7640 3333. E6. Station: Green Park.
Casinos The Casino at the Empire There is a dedicated poker room as well as a contemporary Asian restaurant. www.thecasino lsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 0203733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
The world-famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians including Prince and Ella Fitzgerald. There are acts every night. www.ronniescotts. co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Stringfellows Celebrities as well as the public have enjoyed ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables. Entry is free to Stringfellows if you are dining. www.stringfellows. co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
Bars & Clubs Booking Office Bar A 95ft-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.
Brooklyn Bowl This music venue at The O2 arena boasts a 12-lane bowling alley. www.brooklynbowl.com. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-7412 8778. Off map. Station: North Greenwich. Jason Atherton offers spectacular food and drink surrounded by breathtaking views of London. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Freedom The gay-friendly spot attracts a trendy crowd. www.barsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Gong Located in The Shard, Gong is one of the highest Champagne bars in London. www.shangri-la.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.
Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890. www.gordons winebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 0207930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.
Gin o’clock Step into the eccentric Victorian world of Phileas Fogg at Mr Fogg’s Gin Parlour. Look for the entrance around the side of Mr Fogg’s Tavern, where you are greeted by a spiffingly dressed gentleman who rings the bell to announce your arrival. The parlour is filled with curiosities you’d expect from a bar inspired by Jules Verne’s novel Around the World in Eighty Days. Let the mixologist create your perfect G&T from the Encyclopaedia Gintonica or look for the Old Tom Cat (a secret symbol for gin venues in Victorian times) on the menu. 1 New Row, WC2N 4EA. T: 020-7590 3605. www.mr-foggs.com/gin-parlour. C6. Station: Covent Garden
mr fogg’s gin parlour courtesy of mr fogg’s gin parlour
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SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE
The finishing touch As Movember begins, Mark Elliott gets his beard groomed at Murdock, which blends the best of the barbershop tradition with the flair of the new shampoo and haircut, wet shave, facial and manicure or shoe shine. Taking almost two hours, it offers a break from sights and shops and will be the tonic you need after a flight. Murdock’s experienced barbers spend time – often while you’re relaxing with a whisky or beer – understanding what you want. Murdock is also famous for its range of products, which you can pick from to match your taste or mood. Avalon is the signature scent – with its citrus tones, echoing the crisp, masculine note much favoured today, it’s a top recommendation. But the range may leave you spoilt for choice. The attention to detail underpins everything: the look of the salons, expert service and high-end products. Barber Alex Glover, now at the Shoreditch branch, started at Murdock in 2007. His take on a great haircut? ‘A cut that allows elements of playfulness and relaxed style to be controlled and groomed into something very smart,’ he says. You’ll be in the best hands. 83 Brewer St, W1F 9ZN. T: 020-3393 7946. www.murdocklondon.com
PALL MALL BARBERS Celebrating its 125th anniversary this year, Pall Mall Barbers (above) is one of the leading independent barbers in London. Specialising in wet shaves, popular treatments include the Luxury Wet Shave and the Express Shave. If you want to learn from the skilled barbers, book the Shaving Lesson for £80 – it lasts an hour and the barber will draw up a plan for you. 27 Whitcomb St, WC2H 7EP
GEO F TRUMPER This venue has been a barber and perfumer since 1875. The original Curzon Street shop retains many original features, including mahogany-panelled private cubicles. It also offers manicures and pedicures. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ
TED’S GROOMING ROOM This barber, inspired by the Ottoman Empire, is an offshoot of the brand Ted Baker. Ted’s Shaving Grace offers a close shave or bespoke beard treatment. 82 Mortimer St, W1W 7FE
murdock © toby lewis thomas; pall mall barbers © Vera Bardo
London is a city the world loves to watch. There’s an infectious sense of being in the spotlight that you’ll pick up on when you’re here. No wonder then that a successful break in the capital dictates you must sample some of the outstanding grooming services on offer. November 1 is when Movember begins. The month-long event sees men grow beards and moustaches in a bid to raise money for men’s charities, including ones that battle depression and prostate cancer. Beginning in Australia in the 1990s, it has spread worldwide. To make sure you are not in a hairy situation, visit Murdock – it is an early innovator that fuelled the city’s men’s-grooming boom. In 2006, founder Brendan Murdock seized on a spirited business formula, mixing the service of a classic St James’s barbershop with a modern twist. That first salon was in London’s trendy Shoreditch, and was soon joined by six others, including one in the department store Liberty. The treatments are first class. The Murdock London Luxury Full Service (£120) offers a 68 W H E R E Lo n d o n I n o v e m b e r 2016
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murdock © toby lewis thomas; pall mall barbers © Vera Bardo
FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com
M T as ha sa i ge
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 72-73
Spas Aveda Institute This salon covering three floors offers cuts, colour, blow-drying and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. Beauty and spa treatments available, and there’s a special barber. The Express Beauty Bar has treatments taking 15 and 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.
Bamford Haybarn Spa Loved by celebrities, treatments have a holistic approach to wellbeing, using botanical products including Oskia facials. There is also a rooftop pool and secret garden. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This members-only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in a 56ft pool, use the gym and visit the Figaro Hair Salon. There are massages and a treatment room for people with disabilities. www.blueharbour spa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 0207300 5011. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.
Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa, which uses Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit. There is a VIP suite for couples. www.chuanspa.com. The Langham, 1c Portland Place, Regent St, W1B 1JA. T: 020-7973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. In The Penthouse, a private suite, you can share the experience with a guest and enjoy Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Mandarin Oriental A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. Treatments include body wraps, scrubs, massages and facials, and there is also a menu for men. Facilities include a 17-metre pool and gym. Book a session with trainer to top athletes, Ruben Tabares – sessions can be held in Hyde Park. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 0207235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Mandara Spa Spa with a luxury Asian touch. The décor has Mondrian paintings and Japanese Shoji screens. Treatments include the Warm Bamboo Massage, which uses bamboo stalks. There is a double treatment room, gym and pool. www.mandara spa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.
One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. The pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Refinery London’s men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to sports massage. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book the Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End that boasts a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including a Gold Age Defying Facial and Carat Diamond Face and Body Ritual. There are also treatments for two. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.
The Spa at Dolphin Square Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.
Spa Illuminata Recently voted the Best Day Spa in London from Condé Nast, its menu includes facials, massages and a men’s menu. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spa illuminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Urban Retreat at Harrods
Exhausted, Stressed, Jet-Lagged? Then why not relax with a traditional therapeutic Thai massage? Jade is a licensed and qualiﬁed Thai masseuse whose personalised, high-quality treatment is sure to bring your mind and body back into balance. Please call to book an appointment at your hotel or at her Chelsea studio.
Tel: 07894 700669 De-stress, re-energising
By qualified female masseuse.
DISCREET QUALITY SERVICE, OPEN LATE Please call to book an appointment at your hotel or home. Alternatively, we welcome customers at our Mayfair Studio.
Enjoy beauty treatments – it is one of the few places that offers paraffin wax baths. Special services include extensions, weaves, wig creation and cutting at the Wig Boudoir. www.urbanretreat.co.uk. Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Ushvani This plush venue was voted the Best Day Spa by Tatler in 2012. The philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include a Malay Massage and Balinese Massage, which incoroprate herbs and spices. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
Salons Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish men-only grooming establishment with barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Geo F Trumper This traditional barber shop in Mayfair offers wet shaves, manicures and haircutting for an elegant result (p. 68). www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.
Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Tel: 07827 301 930
AVENA MASSAGE by qualiﬁed female masseuse.
Total relaxation, revitalising massage. Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:
Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon is home to top stylists, and also renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Windle & Moodie This award-winning hair salon specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed Styling service includes updos to braids. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Late appointments available www.wheretraveler.com 69
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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE
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TICKET INFORMATION Where Pass, Oyster cards & Travelcards The Where Pass is a contactless payment debit card, which you can use to hop on and off the transport system. See wherepasslondon.com. An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £3 fee and pre-load it with credit at visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. Oyster cards offer a discount on Emirates Air Line and most river buses. See visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.
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For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.
AT YOUR SERVICE Where London is used by head concierges and their teams at 275 top hotels in the capital Tips from James Elliott, head concierge at London Marriott County Hall What kind of requests do you get? Most guests ask for city maps and directions, but the strangest request I’ve had was when a guest asked me to personally retrieve a piece of lost property – which was located in Paris! What would be your dream day in London? An early horse ride at Hyde Park Stables, breakfast at The Delaunay in Covent Garden, then shopping for gents’ products on Jermyn Street. I’d also visit auction house Christie’s and browse wines in the cellars at Jeroboams in Chelsea. Share some hidden gems. Samuel Smith pubs, because they offer an insight into
in a pair of wonderfully creaky, unrestored Georgian town houses. Teenagers will love Spitalfields, which is packed with clothes by young urban designers.
traditional ales and stouts; a classic barber’s shave at Geo F Trumper in Mayfair, which has been there for 141 years; and a slice of cake in Charles Dickens’ old kitchen, which is now a museum in Bloomsbury. What do you recommend for visitors with children? Children and adults will enjoy Pollock’s Toy Museum, a quirky little place of old British playthings housed
Which quintessential English experience should visitors not miss? It has to be the Cockney comfort-food staple, pie and mash, plus the increasingly hard-to-find jellied eels. The pie and mash shops that used to feed the masses are a dying breed. M Manze was established in 1902. There’s a branch on Tower Bridge Road, so help us keep the tradition alive! London Marriott County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB Clockwise from top left: Hyde Park Stables; Spitalfields; Jermyn Street Inset: James Elliott
tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The night Tube service runs all night Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee and Central lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.80 (£2.30 with an Oyster card).
London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a London bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard, UK-issued contactless payment card or the Where Pass. Visit tfl.gov.uk/buses. Single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or UK-issued contactless payment card.
London Overground tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map opposite. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight and Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.
Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half mins to 10 mins. Mon-Sat 5.30am-12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.
Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras International (connects to King’s Cross St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, and southeast England. Charing Cross London Bridge Waterloo and Victoria serve southern England. For times and tickets, visit nationalrail.co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950. Eurostar uses St Pancras International. Go to eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (or if you’re outside the UK, call T: 01233-617 575).
HORSES COURTESY OF HYDE PARK STABLES; SPITALFIELDS © VISIT BRITAIN; JERMYN STREET © WWW.JERMYNSTREET.NET; JAMES ELLIOTT © MB PHOTOGRAPHY
London Underground (The Tube)
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HORSES COURTESY OF HYDE PARK STABLES; SPITALFIELDS © VISIT BRITAIN; JERMYN STREET © WWW.JERMYNSTREET.NET; JAMES ELLIOTT © MB PHOTOGRAPHY
Same day luggage delivery between London’s airports and London locations. Visit portr.com and quote ‘ESSENTIALS’ for 10% discount.
Chalfont & Latimer
Ruislip Manor Ickenham
Brent Cross Golders Green
South Ruislip Sudbury Hill
Kilburn Park Maida Vale
North Ealing East Acton
6 5 4 3
Shepherd’s Bush Market
Northfields Chiswick Park Boston Manor
Heathrow Terminal 5
District Hammersmith & City Jubilee Metropolitan Northern Piccadilly
Borough Lambeth North
Victoria Waterloo & City DLR Emirates Air Line cable car (Special fares apply) London Overground TfL Rail London Trams District open at weekends and on some public holidays
Step-free access from street to platform
National Rail Tooting Bec
Riverboat services Airport
Victoria Coach Station
South Tottenham to Barking No service from early June 2016 until February 2017. Gospel Oak to Barking No weekend service until February 2017. No weekday service from late September 2016 until February 2017.
Custom House for ExCeL
Emirates Royal Docks
Prince Regent Royal Albert Beckton Park
Emirates Greenwich Peninsula
London City Airport
Gallions Reach Beckton
King George V
Deptford Bridge Elverson Road
Wellesley Road George Street
Harrington Road Elmers End Arena
Special fares apply
Emirates Air Line cable car
East Ham Upton Park Plaistow
Honor Oak Park
Step-free access from street to train
New Cross Gate
Elephant & Castle
Pudding Mill Lane
Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich
Queens Road Peckham
West India Quay
Upminster Bridge Hornchurch
Seven Kings Ilford
Stratford High Street
Clapham High Street
Bank St. Paul’s
Heathrow Terminal 4
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Shoreditch High Street
St. James’s Park
Hoxton Old Street
Russell Square Goodge Street
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Leyton Midland Road
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High Street Kensington
Caledonian Road & Barnsbury
Tottenham Court Road
Highbury & Islington
Stamford Hill Walthamstow Queen’s Road Stoke Newington
King’s Cross St. Pancras
Hyde Park Corner
Turnham Stamford Ravenscourt Brook Park Green
Notting Hill Gate
Heathrow Terminals 2 & 3
Ealing Common South Ealing
Baker Great Portland Euston Street Street
St. John’s Wood
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White Hart Lane
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Finchley Road & Frognal
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Finchley Central East Finchley
Southgate Arnos Grove
Mill Hill East
Harrow & Wealdstone
Turkey Street Southbury
Special fares apply
Epping Theydon Bois Debden
Bush Hill Park
Totteridge & Whetstone
Carpenders Park Moor Park
Cheshunt Enfield Town
High Barnet Bushey
Watford High Street
8 7 6
Special fares apply
Blackhorse Lane Addiscombe
Lebanon Road East Croydon
Lloyd Park Coombe Lane
King Henry’s Drive
Services for these stations are subject to variation. Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details.
*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.
Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel
You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. For more information, visit tfl.gov.uk.
London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. Victoria. tfl.gov.uk/coaches
Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. enterprise.co.uk.
Congestion Charge There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14). UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. cclondon.com.
On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. tfl.gov.uk/legiblelondon.
Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bicycles for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. For details, visit tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 034-3222 6666.
Version J1 TfL 06.2016
Correct at time of going to print
River services tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: T: 020-7001 2200. thamesclippers.com. Catamarans leave major piers every 20 mins. Services run between Waterloo Pier and The O2 (North Greenwich Pier) and on to Royal Arsenal Woolwich Pier, stopping at 20 main piers. Discounts on adult single fare with an Oyster, Visitor Oyster or contactless card. River Roamer day pass gives unlimited hop-on, hop-off travel from £17.35.
Emirates Air Line cable car London’s only cable car runs between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCel London). tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.
Accessible London Deaf and disabled travellers should visit DisabledGo at visitlondon.com/access and openbritain.net.
AirPortr (Luggage delivery service) PASS PARTNER Same-day luggage transfer between London’s airports and hotels – travel bag-free and make the most of your time here. Prices start at £15 for one bag plus £10 for each additional item (any size or weight). T: 020-3384 6677. portr.com.
The city of London is a magnificent place, bursting with things to see and do. The all-new Where Pass makes experiencing London convenient and hassle-free for travellers. Incorporating the latest in contactless debit card technology, users of the Where Pass are able to travel around using the public transport system, enjoy shopping and dining throughout the city, and gain discounted access into top attractions. Immerse yourself in everything London has to offer with the Where Pass – visit www.wherepasslondon.com for details. www.wheretraveler.com 71
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Where NOW | Guy BarkeR MBE
Trumpeter and composer The jazz trumpeter is also the musical director for Jazz Voice, the opening gala concert at the EFG London Jazz Festival. He’s worked with Frank Sinatra, Sting and Ornette Coleman. Born and raised in London, he lives in Chiswick If you’re at home in London, what time do you wake up? I wake up around 7.30am, because I start composing at 8am and I write all day. Do you have a favourite place to go to for breakfast? Moot Bar & Restaurant in Chiswick Business Centre serves great breakfasts – everything from eggs royale to pain au chocolat. What are your favourite buildings? The Royal Albert Hall is a beautiful and amazing building – inside you can hear wonderful music, especially during the BBC Proms in summer. I’ve played there many times. The nearby Royal College of Music in South Kensington, where I studied as a teenager, is also lovely. If you could visit any museum or gallery, where would you go? I enjoy going to the Getty Images Gallery, near Oxford Circus, which is free to visit. I recently saw an exhibition there on Soho, which is such a fascinating, vibrant place. Which shops do you like? I prefer to go to individual shops rather than malls, so I might go to Bond Street in the West End or Chiswick High Road. How do you prefer to travel? I never learnt to drive, so I use the Tube and occasionally take a cab or the bus.
What is the loveliest green space in town? It’s got to be Hyde Park; it’s an amazing space. Every time I go there I discover something new. I also like to go to Turnham Green in Chiswick – it’s just a little green around the corner from my house. I go there when I need some ideas. What is your favourite place in the city to enjoy lunch? I like the dim sum at Hakkasan on Hanway Place and La Trompette on Devonshire Road in Chiswick. It changes its menu often but the crab tortellini is delicious. Is there a place in London that holds a special memory for you? The whole of London inspires me. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club in Soho is very close to my heart; I’m drawn to it. I first went there as a teenager – sometimes I’d go every night and I’d be tired for college the next day. I’d stand at the back and listen to all my idols, hang out with them and talk about music and they’d look out for me! How do you like to splash out? An extravagant evening for me would involve great music and great food, then I would hail a cab – it would be a treat because I could take the Tube instead! Having a good time isn’t all about how much money you spend, though – some of the best restaurants are reasonably priced. Clipstone on Clipstone Street in Fitzrovia serves good-value small plates.
Where in London do you go for a drink? I go to the upstairs bar at Ronnie Scott’s, which is separate from the club. Where is your favourite place to go for dinner, and who would be your perfect dining partner? I would go to La Trompette in Chiswick, and I’d take the late composers Igor Stravinsky and Leonard Bernstein. I’d spend the whole meal asking: ‘How did you do that?’ I’m fascinated by great composers who’ve changed the way we think about music. What do you choose to do if you want a night out in London? I listen to great music, regardless of genre. I’d go to a concert hall, Ronnie Scott’s, Pizza Express on Dean Street in Soho or the 606 Club near Chelsea Harbour. Where would you love to spend the night? The private members’ bar Home House in Portman Square, behind Selfridges department store, has beautiful rooms, but I’d prefer to go home and wake up in my own bed. 11 Nov. Southbank Centre, Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7324 1880. www.efglondonjazzfestival.org.uk Clockwise from top left: Royal Albert Hall; Guy Barker MBE; Bond Street; Wynton Marsalis at Ronnie Scott’s; dim sum at Hakkasan
royal albert hall © stephen frak; guy barker mbe © Emile Holba; bond street © visit london; wynton marsalis at ronnie scott’s © Benjamin Amure; dim sum courtesy of hakkasan
Guy Barker MBE
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Published on Nov 18, 2016