Taste Sensation For talented Head Sommelier Cathryn Bell, transposing the joy of flavour is a means of making every guest feel valued. Words: Abby Lowe
PROFILE Cathryn Bell Head Sommelier Grove of Narberth After pursuing a career in international development and securing a degree in Swahili, Bell discovered the world of wine and moved to Cape Town to study. She later relocated to Ireland, where sommelier roles at Ashford Castle, Chapter One and Aimsir further enriched her knowledge. She returned to Wales in 2023 to take up a role as Head Sommelier at Grove of Narberth in Pembrokeshire.
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tâs the beginning of spring in Pembrokeshire,
I
Despite stumbling upon this passion for
UK, and though the tree branches are still bare,
wine later in life, Bell fell hard for the stories,
their stark forms slicing upward through clear
sensations and nuances associated with the
blue skies, there are signs that life is reawakening
drink. âI didnât know that being a sommelier was
after a long winter slumber. The pale-yellow
a job,â she explains, perched next to a roaring
petals of daffodils stand characteristically
fire in the hotelâs cosy lobby. âBut once I found
strong against the brisk westerly winds, while
out it could be my livelihood, I knew immediately
snowdrops quiver like tiny bells in its wake.
that was what I wanted. I thought thank you very
Before long, the walled garden at country house
much, thatâs me done!â Unconventionally, she
hotel Grove of Narberth will be bursting with
learned on the job, moving to Dublin to take
homegrown produce once more. Apples, pears,
up a position at Ashford Castle before heading
beetroot, pumpkins, every morsel used on the
to Michelin-starred restaurant Chapter One,
table, in sauces and drinks, or stored away to
and then two-Michelin-starred Aimsir, where
be feasted upon once the earth slips slowly back
her natural aptitude for wine began to attract
into hibernation.
attention in both the industry and the media.
DOWN TO EARTH
both her development and her desire to remain
Itâs this quietly fizzing landscape â and all the
determinedly down-to-earth. âI was very lucky
potential for creativity it stirs â that eventually
to learn from the Irish,â she emphasises. âThey
pulled Cathryn Bell back to Wales. Originally
are incredibly warm, with a wonderful natural
from Ammanford, she left to embark on what
affinity for hospitality. In a way, it meant I was
would become a sinuous 16-year journey before
shielded from the prestige and status of the
eventually returning home. The period was
profession, and I think that suited me best.â Bell
initially defined by studies in international
appears to have absorbed this effortless cordiality
development and Swahili, which led to relocation
too, taking care of every guest like theyâre an old
to an East African island, and it was here she
friend. âI love the people aspect of the job,â she
uncovered a passion for bringing joy to others.
affirms. âI feel like weâre very lucky to be able
Inadvertently, that led to the discovery of the
to gift people experiences.â
She credits this time in Ireland as critical to
world of wine, a thread she followed all the way
Approaching a decade in Ireland, and on
to Cape Town in pursuit of mastering the subject.
her fatherâs repeated request, Bell started to