The Rules Do Not Apply At Paco Roncero’s Sublimotion, the only rule is that there are no rules. The chef discusses running what is widely known as the most expensive restaurant in the world, and his passion for passing on culinary knowledge to the younger generation. Words: Elly Earls • Portrait Photography: © Álvaro Fernández Prieto
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n 2014, Spanish chef Paco Roncero opened what is widely
At Sublimotion, he says, the only rule is that there are no
recognised as being the most expensive restaurant in
rules. The rest of his professional life, however, is regulated
the world. Sublimotion, located on the balmy Balearic
by the standards that must be met to bear the accolade of
party island of Ibiza in Europe’s first Hard Rock Hotel,
‘haute gastronomie’. He certainly knows what it takes: his
bills itself as a multi-sensory experience combining
eponymous restaurant, which is located in the NH Collection
technology, haute cuisine and a touch of magic. It seats
Casino de Madrid, has been awarded two Michelin stars and
just 12 diners at a time, and comes with a hefty price tag of
three Guia Repsol suns. His eyes glisten slightly when he
€1,500 Euros per head.
talks about it; “It’s my home,” he says. Its acclaim is a mark
Eight years and one global pandemic later, the culinary
of recognition for both his advanced cooking techniques and
ace did it all over again. Sublimotion Dubai, created in
creativity in the kitchen, and the exquisite care he exercises
collaboration with creative director Eduardo Gonzáles,
over every detail involved in the dining ritual at the venue.
recently opened for its second season in the Emirate
This ranges from the interior décor, which was created by
city’s lavish Mandarin Oriental hotel. Surrounded by 360°
Jaime Hayon, to the wine cellar featuring more than 900
projecting screens, kitted out with state-of-the-art systems
different bottles.
that control everything from the humidity to the scent of
Roncero also oversees gastro bar Estado Puro in Madrid and
the room, and serving more than 20 courses combined with
Shanghai, but Sublimotion is where he gets to let loose. Yet
a wild entertainment programme of dance and illusion
he was displaying a strong experimental streak long before
accompanied by a carefully curated playlist, Sublimotion
its debut: back in 2012, he launched PacoRonceroTaller in
mark two is equally as impressive as its forerunner. The
the Casino de Madrid, a research lab where, for the first time
new outpost follows the format of the original Ibiza venue,
ever, materials, high-precision technology and engineering
with some variations to the décor and menu tweaks to
techniques usually used in the aviation and film industries
accommodate regional and cultural differences. As Roncero
were applied to the dining experience. Two years later, this
jovially points out, although the newer Middle Eastern
attempt to push the boundaries beyond taste and generate
iteration is different in some respects, overhauling the
new emotions around food had evolved into Sublimotion.
experience for the new location wasn’t a major concern,
Today, at both venues, a multi-disciplinary team of
given that few people are likely to fork out for the planet’s
25 different professionals – ranging from technicians to
most expensive dinner twice.
waiters, magicians, singers, dancers, chefs and designers