Da Vittorio

The Reverie Saigon ups the fine-dining ante by opening the first Vietnamese outpost of a family-run, triple-Michelin-starred brand known for its unmistakable style of Italian gastronomy.

Words: Neena Dhillon • Photography: Courtesy of The Reverie Saigon

When The Reverie Saigon debuted in Ho Chi Minh City in 2015, it introduced a plethora of new eateries to the scene, including an Italian venue. Fast forward seven years and the Vietnamese appetite for Italian dining experiences shows no signs of abating. As a result, the hotel’s culinary offering is moving up a gear with the opening of Ho Chi Minh’s first fine-dining Italian restaurant that brings a three-Michelin-starred brand direct from the Bergamasco foothills to the busiest boulevard in Vietnam’s biggest city. Both Pope Francis and former US president Barack Obama have eaten Da Vittorio’s signature paccheri pasta, the large tube-like morsels the perfect vehicle for a rich tomato sauce that is finished tableside for a touch of theatre. At the new Vietnamese outpost, this tradition is replicated to perfection by Chef Matteo Fontana, who tosses the vibrant orange-red sauce at speed to keep the air within before plating up for diners, their clothes preserved from splatters by fancy bibs rustled up especially for this course. The lucky head of the table receives the whole pan and is challenged to follow the great Italian tradition of ‘fare la scarpetta’, which means using the homemade bread to soak up the tomato-rich spoils. To ensure the integrity of this interaction, Fontana spent two years training with the Cerea family in Italy. Brothers Chicco and Bobo are responsible today for this family-run

In step with the rest of The Reverie Saigon, Da Vittorio features Italian furnishings set amid a backdrop of striated marbles and polished stone

gastronomic brand having inherited the reins of the flagship restaurant from their parents, who originally began serving diners in the Bergamo region in the 1960s. For the 2022 launch of Da Vittorio Saigon, the brothers flew in to give Fontana their seal of approval, and they continue to work closely with him on the menu as well as to ensure the warmth and family atmosphere of the original is reflected in Vietnam. Such is his devotion to the family’s approach that one of the first things Fontana did on arrival in the country was to locate an organic farm in Da Lat that could grow tomatoes for the famous sauce, with seeds provided to the growers direct from Bergamo.

“What’s wonderful about their approach is that there are no airs and graces,” says Fontana. “As a chef, you are invited to become part of the family and learn exactly how they charge traditional recipes with innovation and modern techniques. Chicco is the more serious of the two but has a great sense of humour while Bobo is directly involved in the cooking and always has time for a joke and smile. They treat people really well. Diners love talking to the family who make everyone feel at home.”

Fontana is no stranger to hotel kitchens: stints at Leela Palaces Hotels & Resorts in India and Le Cirque in Abu Dhabi took his career global following time in Italy working with seasoned Michelin-starred chefs such as Ciccio Sultano. This is his first role in Vietnam as an Executive Chef and he’s excited to be at the helm of the second Da Vittorio restaurant in Asia, with the first already a hit in Shanghai. To cement the team, F&B Manager Roberto Cini Mencacci brings a track record of running Italian restaurants in Asia while Head Sommelier Ngan Tram is in charge of the 400-label cellar and shares her encyclopaedic knowledge of vintages and signature cocktails.

In step with the rest of The Reverie Saigon, the restaurant is decked out with imported Italian furnishings and handcrafted Italian mosaics set against a backdrop of striated marbles and polished stone. Slate grey dining chairs and

Egg a la’Egg comprises four different and discernible egg textures in a martini glass topped with caviar

Frette linen tablecloths lend a certain restraint to the décor, which is otherwise unashamedly opulent, rich in dark and sumptuous colours, and wall friezes made from the aforementioned mosaics. European and Asian porcelain brands including Legle, Narumi and Italesse lend gravitas to the dining experience, while Catellani & Smith is responsible for the sophistication of the table adornments. To match the grandeur of the restaurant, service is reassuringly formal yet friendly, with waiters keen to impart information about the gastronomic experience while Fontana pops by at regular intervals to chat about ingredients and techniques.

The eight-course tasting menu ensures that diners in Saigon have an opportunity to sample all the Cerea family’s greatest hits. Of course, there’s the Vittorio-style paccheri pasta paired with a fruity Casanova di Neri Rosso di Montalcino. Before this legendary dish, however, guests are treated to another of the family’s hallmarks, fresh seafood brought to life with expressive notes, mouth-watering accompaniments and subtle twists of flavour.

From gambero rosso delicately fragranced with a gazpacho foam and given a zing with a dash of lemon curd to a clever hot-and-cold raw tuna spaghetti with a bagna cauda sauce and onto a joyous langoustine dish that combines Italian ingredients with Vietnamese flavours, the opening gambit is highly memorable. Wine pairings of a classic Italian Gavi and Sicilian Planeta La Segreta Il Bianco are well considered choices: invigorating, fresh and bright on the palate. The creaminess of a Mediterranean turbot with coconut is followed by the dish that won the family their third star back in 2010. Egg a la’Egg exemplifies Da Vittorio’s philosophy of tradition with innovation, comprising four different and discernible egg textures in a martini glass topped with Amur Prestige caviar. Complemented by a glass of Terlaner cuvee, it is easy to see why the decadent dish shone for its originality and complexity when first sampled by the Michelin inspector over ten years ago. But the tasting menu has yet more to reveal. Pan-seared black cod swims in an impeccable mushroom broth before the sweet tooth is satiated with a dreamy, deconstructed tiramisu. To close the culinary journey, it’s a return to Bergamo for a typical treat of vanilla creamfuelled cannoncini.

With such a strong presence of the Italian flagship, is there room for Fontana’s own plates? “Of course, we will retain the signatures from Italy but we also have a few plates specific to Saigon,” he says. “Take our linguine crab, which uses three different types of the crustacean, two of them local, flavoured with mint, candied lemon and a little lemon gel. We’re also keen to showcase seasonal Italian ingredients, with a focus this winter on white truffle, for example.” He concludes by observing that the Vietnamese market is ready for Da Vittorio’s level of assured and elevated fine-dining experience. Underpinned by expert service and unfolding in an ambience that is alluringly Italian, surely it won’t be long before the Saigon outpost wins its own recognition on awards lists and, maybe even, in stars. IN A BITE Owner: WMC Group Operator: Da Vittorio Executive Chef: Matteo Fontana F&B Manager: Roberto Cini Mencacci Head Sommelier: Ngan Tram www.thereveriesaigon.com