Supper - Issue 30

HOTEL FOOD & DRINK

LEGACY – THE GRAND YORK • PACO RONCERO • DA VITTORIO – THE REVERIE SAIGON

CONTENTS ISSUE 30 068

STARTERS

088

The Hudson Rooms

042

Velvet

044

The Vasper

046

Capella Hanoi

Corinthia London Mondrian Park Avenue New York

© Cristian Barnett

© Edmund Dabney

044

MAIN COURSES 049

Da Vittorio

054

Terre

062

Mural Farmhouse

068

The Grand York The Reverie Saigon Ho Chi Minh City Castlemartyr Resort Cork WunderLocke Munich

© Alex Upton

Legacy

003

CONTENTS ISSUE 30 040

SERVICE Chef’s Table

026

The Rules Do Not Apply

028

No Limits

034

Striking the Balance

040

Chef-restauranteur Wolfgang Puck, who helms a multitude of eateries around the world, shares his favourite food memories.

Spanish chef Paco Roncero opens up about creativity, pushing boundaries and running the most expensive restaurant in the world.

As one of Italy’s most successful chefs, Enrico Bartolini is famed for a creative cuisine that honours tradition, seasonality and ritual.

Kate Brooke-Green, Head of Food at hip hoteldiner concept Mollie’s, discusses fostering passion and keeping things simple in the kitchen.

076

104

DINING Ancestral Fruit

076

In Portugal’s wild heartlands of Alentejo, São Lourenço do Barrocal is honouring its heritage by taking olive oil production to new heights.

© Sanda Pagaimo

SIPPING Decency and Decadence

REGULARS

004

088

Award-winning bartenders Leo Robitschek and Liana Oster discuss transplanting their innovative beverage philosophies from New York to London via NoMad’s newest watering hole.

Entrée

017

Drinks

098

Appetisers

021

Events

100

Signatures

084

Petits Fours

107

Cocktails

094

Washing-Up

122

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ENTRÉE

ON THE COVER Legacy, The Grand, York

Purpose and Perspective

W

hy does hospitality matter? As we turn the corner

– and retaining – talent has never been more essential to

into 2023 against an unsettling backdrop of ongoing

the success of the sector. In our interview with Kate Brooke-

international labour, supply chain and inflation

Green, Head of Food at the disruptive hotel-diner concept

issues, it could be the million-dollar question: how can F&B

Mollie’s (page 40), the food development professional

businesses woo cash-strapped consumers and stoke a desire

discusses her approach to nurturing talent creatively, driven

to continue to eat, drink and be merry into the new year?

by her passion to make hospitality roles an attractive career

According to data and insight consultancy CGA’s Cost of

prospect to youngsters with a sense of purpose. The topic

Living Consumer Pulse, 45% of people consider eating out

was also the subject of much debate at the recent edition of

a ‘fundamental activity’ and around 64% of UK adults claim

the top-tier industry forum To The Table Europe (read our

they would find it hard to put a stop to it, regardless of a

report on page 102), where a panel of experts explored various

looming threat of recession. Despite that positive starting

strategies and initiatives geared at helping people unlock their

point, foodservice wholesaler Bidfood’s 2023 Food & Drink

passions and serve their principles via roles in the business.

Trends Report recently found that 53% of people are preparing

With policies ranging from profit-sharing programmes and

to eat out less than before as financial strife deepens, and 48%

wellbeing schemes to sustainable practices and free tattoos,

are cutting back on going out for drinks. Clearly F&B venues

the lively discussion underlined that there’s no one-size-

will have to remain creative when it comes to enticing custom

fits-all solution to this dilemma, but that creative, adaptable

if they are to prosper in what is shaping up to be another sticky

thinking and an ability to help people find direction and

chapter for the industry.

progression within the industry remains crucial.

Engagement, it seems, is key: research by Hilton recently

At Supper, our purpose has always been clear: we are here

found that 84% of its customers hope to travel as much, if

to celebrate and champion the dynamic global hotel F&B

not more, than the last 12 months over the year ahead – and,

industry’s finest accomplishments. Once again, these pages

crucially, they expect to gravitate towards ‘engaging and

are packed with ambition, offering deep dives into passion

diverse experiences and events’. Luckily, it’s a trend that

projects from Cork to Munich, via Hanoi, as well as interviews

lends itself deftly to the domain of hotel F&B, where exclusive

with eminent chefs Paco Roncero and Enrico Bartolini.

culinary packages, often featuring a destination-specific

We are lucky enough to call this issue our 30th – thanks in

aspect, are rising in popularity all over the world. Our trend

no small part to the backing of the hospitality sector and those

report on page 24 explores the ways in which hotel groups

who find meaning in it. Thank you for your continued support,

are harnessing the power of their vast networks to develop

and Happy New Year. Supper is served.

location-sensitive activations for guests seeking gastronomic experiences with meaning.

And it isn’t just diners who are looking for a renewed sense of purpose. With staffing levels and recruitment currently a source of headaches for F&B businesses worldwide, attracting

Shanna McGoldrick • Deputy Editor

017

THE BRIGADE

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EDITORIAL

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Editor-in-Chief Matt Turner

Design Manager David Bell

Finance Director Amanda Giles

Managing Editor Catherine Martin

Production Mel Capper

Group Financial Controller Sarah Healey

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Deputy Editor Shanna McGoldrick

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Editorial Assistant Eleanor Howard

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PORTFOLIO

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Group Credit Controller Lynette Levi EVENTS & MARKETING

Commercial Lead Kirsty Studholme

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Content & Research Olivia Mavers

CORPORATE

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APPETISERS

Developing Streetsense Experience-focused strategy and design collective Streetsense has acquired Pure Grey, Marriott International’s in-house F&B concept and operations consultancy.

The

consultancy

works

across

all

hospitality segments, including licensing its own restaurant brands internationally. Highprofile venues it has acquired include Revel & Rye at the New York Marriott Marquis, Laurel Brasserie & Bar at The Grand America Hotel, Spice Market at Live Aqua San Miguel de Allende in Mexico, and Market Kitchen at the vibrant new W Algarve in Portugal.

“Streetsense’s well-established eat and drink studio combined with Pure Grey’s operations

and

concept

development

capabilities will provide our clients the opportunity to imagine, create, build and operate leading hospitality and hospitalityled food and beverage brands and places worldwide,” says Streetsense CEO Brian Taff.

“Streetsense is a long-term collaborator with deep knowledge of Marriott’s 30 hotel brands, our food and beverage operations and our mission to deliver exceptionally well-executed experiences that resonate with guests and our hotel owners,” adds Matthew Von Ertfelda, Senior Vice President, Global Operations, Marriott International. “We are thrilled for Streetsense to expand on Pure Grey’s expertise and continue to provide innovative food and beverage concepts and experiences to guests worldwide.”

The collective has also appointed Ed Viita, Pure Grey’s Senior Director, as its new Managing Director of Hospitality. Under Viita’s leadership, Pure Grey has become a leading hospitality, culinary and food and beverage consulting firm managing entire creative and operations teams. Viita has also developed independent restaurants, bars and hotels, including the world-renowned Artesian at The Langham, and was behind the relaunch of The Savoy.

APPETISERS

Pedal Power

© Courtesy of Can Bordoy

Shaken and Stirred Tucked away in the historic quarter of Palma de

Though undeniably hardworking, the CB-Bar

Mallorca, Can Bordoy Grand House & Garden is

exudes an easy nonchalance thanks to a palette

known for its artfully eclectic visual compilation

of plush materials such as velvet fabrics, solid

of contemporary design pieces and intriguing

walnut and brass finishes, which contrast with

European antiques, set against the backdrop of

the walls of the rooms that are left deliberately

a 500-year-old manor house. So when owner

unfinished. Inspired by the Bordoy family’s

Mikael Hall and architecture studio OHLAB came

return to Mallorca after emigrating to the USA

to selecting a minibar for the hotel’s 24 luxurious

in the 1920s and again in the 50s, the minibar

suites, it was clear that the average refrigerator

channels the sleek hairpin legs and grooved

tucked away in the corner just wouldn’t suffice.

wooden panelling of the Mid-Century Modern

Enter the Can Bordoy Bar (CB-Bar). A playful

period, coexisting with its surroundings.

and interactive celebration of both form and

Naturally, the bar comes equipped with all the

function, the bespoke piece of furniture is able

necessary tools for guests to fix up a cocktail at

to transform seamlessly from minibar, fridge and

whim; shakers, filters, stirring sticks and leather

snack storage space to extendable desk or cocktail

ice buckets are all housed neatly within. Premium

bar. It features integrated lighting and an inbuilt

wines and spirits such as Gramona Reserva

Audio Pro sound system with a custom-designed

Brut, Corpinnat, Monkey 47 Schwarzwald dry

aged brass button station that complements the

gin and Nikka Whisky from the barrel also come

hotel’s penchant for retro-tinged nostalgia with

as standard, as do a variety of soft drinks and

modern capabilities.

mixers. Chin chin.

© Kevin Dutton

022

East London Liquor Company (ELLC) is putting the pedal to the metal in its mission to become more sustainable.

Following the recent launch of its Project Refill closed-loop sustainability initiative, the spirits brand has partnered with e-courier logistics company Pedal Me to double down on carbon savings.

To mark the collaboration, in October Pedal Me took the liquor brand’s Booze & Beats Bike Bar on a 420km round trip to Amsterdam’s International Cargo Bike Festival, ferrying 165kg of ELLC booze out, and returning each empty bottle to its Bow Wharf distillery to be refilled and given away.

The feat, which resulted in a total carbon saving of 200kg, coincides with ELLC’s expansion of Project Refill via the launch of sales of its gin, vodka and rum in 10-litre jerry cans. Trade accounts can order spirits in the kerbside recyclable format so that existing bottles can be refilled for the back bar and speed rail, while off-trade sites can invite customers to provide their own empty bottles for refill on the shop floor.

“We didn’t start Project Refill just to pat ourselves on the back,” says ELLC Founder Alex Wolpert. “It’s to share and grow to make it become as big a beast as we can. With every new account that signs up to the scheme, the more people are able to buy into the idea and the more powerful it can become.”

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T

raditionally the most compelling and

destination-focused packages across its global

elusive of culinary figures, the celebrity

portfolio. “Looking foward, we anticipate that

chef is habitually viewed from a safe

destination-focused culinary travel packages will

distance – often via a TV screen or the glossy

continue to increase in popularity – whether it

pages of a cookbook. But times are changing,

be celebrity chef culinary weekends like those at

and when it comes to the high-profile people

Waldorf Astoria Los Cabos Pedregal, which sold

responsible for their food, discerning diners are

out within days, or experiences that reflect and

increasingly hungry for a slice of the action.

complement the surrounding destination,” says

Enter: the rise of culinary tourism. Immersive

Adam Crocini, Senior Vice President of Global

F&B journeys with big-name chefs are now

Food & Beverage brands, Hilton. In addition

par for the course across the global hospitality

to big-name chef activations, the group is

industry – but particularly within the hotel

leveraging its guest loyalty programme to

sector, where the notion of the one-off, the

encourage members to engage with local culinary

pop-up and the temporary residency seems to

culture – be that making fresh dim sum at Conrad

lend an element of intimacy to eating out that

Maldives Rangali Island or baking a Royal Praline

food-focused travellers crave. From BBQ lunches

cake at Hilton Kuala Lumpur.

Getting Involved Hotel groups are leveraging top-notch chef connections to feed a growing demand for culinary experiences.

to master classes, chefs are engaging with hotel guests more than ever before.

Recently, hotel behemoth Hilton’s 2023 Trends

Collection’s Hotel Bel-Air runs a Visiting Chef

Report found that 84% of its customers hope to

series that regularly attracts top talent in the

travel just as much, if not more, in this coming

industry: for 2022, the initiative kicked off with

year than the last – and crucially, while travelling,

an alfresco barbeque helmed by Wolfgang Puck,

they expect to gravitate towards “engaging and

Francis Mallmann and Nancy Silverton, among

diverse experiences and events”. It’s a trend that

others. Ace Hotel Kyoto is kickstarting 2023 with

the group is already catering to – particularly in

a residency by Noma chef René Redzepi, while

the arena of F&B, where unique culinary packages

Maldivian resort Soneva Fushi has garnered

have proven to be a hit over the past 12 months.

attention for the rotating line-up of culinary

These include celebrity chef weekends in resort

stars it welcomes to its fine dining zip-line

destinations such as Mexico, where the Waldorf

restaurant, Flying Sauces.

Astoria Los Cabos Pedregal recently hosted events

The trend plays to the strengths of large

with big names including Kim Alter, Nancy

hotel groups, whose diverse locations and vast

Silverton and barbecue legend Ronnie Killen, and

networks facilitate tailoring bespoke, location-

the Conrad Algarve in Portugal, which saw seven

sensitive experiences for guests at an individual

of the region’s Michelin-starred chefs convene

property level – and it’s a positive cycle. As

onsite in October to celebrate International Chef

Crocini confirms: “This increased demand has

Day, led by Heinz Beck.

given our food and beverage team members the

Hilton expects to build on the success of these initiatives in 2023, doubling down on

024

And the group isn’t alone in seeking to harness the power of immersive F&B events. Dorchester

opportunity to flex their creative muscles and develop high-quality programmes.”

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CHEF’S TABLE

Wolfgang Puck The eminent chef-restaurateur, who helms a multitude of eateries around the world including LA dining spot Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air, shares his favourite food memories.

When did you first fall in love with cooking?

Which chefs have inspired you?

It’s Sunday evening at home: who’s cooking

For me, cooking was always a family affair.

The chef who has inspired me the most in

and what’s on the menu?

My mother was a very well-respected chef in

my life is Raymond Thuilier; when I went

My favourite Sunday night dinner is the Bel-

Austria. I fell in love with cooking aged 12, when

to Baumanière, he immediately became my

Air Hotel’s fried chicken with grits and salad

I was working in the pastry kitchen at the hotel

mentor. He was the first person who thought

with green goddess dressing, followed by a

where she was a chef.

I had talent in cooking and always encouraged

delicious cheesecake. If I had to cook at home

me to do my best.

on Sundays, it would be a simple roast chicken

What is your most memorable meal?

with roasted vegetables. In the fall I use sweet

I’ve had many great meals in my lifetime, from

How often do you dine out?

potatoes and other root vegetables – I place

Kyoto Kitcho in Japan to Le Moulin de Mougins

Since Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group

a few garlic cloves and rosemary branches in

by Roger Vergé in France, but my sentimental

has restaurants in LA, I seldom go to other

before roasting – and I always like to make a

favourite is Baumanière. I was there over the

restaurants, but I will sometimes go to

big salad.

summer with my family; we had the baby lamb

Matsuhisa, Angelini or Osteria Mozza.

What’s your go-to cooking soundtrack?

with gratin de pinot and it was the best lamb I have ever tasted. Even my 15-year-old son

Which new restaurant are you eager to try out?

I like a variety of music, from opera to Pink

Alexander agreed!

Daniel Boulud is opening a new sushi restaurant

Floyd to The Weeknd.

at One Vanderbilt in New York called Jōji. I’m What’s your favourite dish and who cooks it?

interested to see whether Daniel and his Japanese

Which cookbooks can we find on your shelf?

My wife Gelila makes a delicious penne

chef George Ruan will do a hybrid cuisine or a

I have cookbooks ranging from some that

bolognese. It’s slightly spicy and with an extra

more traditional omakase experience.

are 100 years old to new ones from this year.

I especially love coffee-table cookbooks like

helping of parmesan. She finishes the sauce with a sprig of rosemary too.

Are you an easygoing or a demanding

Thomas Keller’s, Heston Blumenthal’s or The

restaurant customer?

Aviary cocktail book.

And something to drink with that?

For me, going to a restaurant starts with the

When I eat Italian food, I tend to drink Italian

host at the entrance; I look for hospitality

Sweet or savoury?

wine, like a Barbaresco.

first and foremost. I hate to be ignored or not

Savoury.

attended to. I go to good restaurants where I What’s your favourite hotel restaurant?

expect the best service, even more so than food.

Healthy dishes or full-fat indulgence?

Full-fat indulgence.

I love Hotel Bel-Air for the food, setting and ambiance; it’s very unique. I also really like

Which city is food heaven for you?

Izumi at the Four Seasons in Geneva, especially

I believe Tokyo is one of the most interesting

Who is your favourite person to cook for?

in the summer; sitting out on the rooftop with

food cities in the world - from the fish market

Since I cook mostly at the restaurants, I love to

delicious food and a gorgeous view from Lake

to some of the best sushi places. It has amazing

cook for people who leave it up to me and say:

Geneva to Mont Blanc.

Asian food and highly stylised French food.

“Wolfgang, surprise us!”

027

The Rules Do Not Apply At Paco Roncero’s Sublimotion, the only rule is that there are no rules. The chef discusses running what is widely known as the most expensive restaurant in the world, and his passion for passing on culinary knowledge to the younger generation.

Words: Elly Earls • Portrait Photography: © Álvaro Fernández Prieto

I

n 2014, Spanish chef Paco Roncero opened what is widely

At Sublimotion, he says, the only rule is that there are no

recognised as being the most expensive restaurant in

rules. The rest of his professional life, however, is regulated

the world. Sublimotion, located on the balmy Balearic

by the standards that must be met to bear the accolade of

party island of Ibiza in Europe’s first Hard Rock Hotel,

‘haute gastronomie’. He certainly knows what it takes: his

bills itself as a multi-sensory experience combining

eponymous restaurant, which is located in the NH Collection

technology, haute cuisine and a touch of magic. It seats

Casino de Madrid, has been awarded two Michelin stars and

just 12 diners at a time, and comes with a hefty price tag of

three Guia Repsol suns. His eyes glisten slightly when he

€1,500 Euros per head.

talks about it; “It’s my home,” he says. Its acclaim is a mark

Eight years and one global pandemic later, the culinary

of recognition for both his advanced cooking techniques and

ace did it all over again. Sublimotion Dubai, created in

creativity in the kitchen, and the exquisite care he exercises

collaboration with creative director Eduardo Gonzáles,

over every detail involved in the dining ritual at the venue.

recently opened for its second season in the Emirate

This ranges from the interior décor, which was created by

city’s lavish Mandarin Oriental hotel. Surrounded by 360°

Jaime Hayon, to the wine cellar featuring more than 900

projecting screens, kitted out with state-of-the-art systems

different bottles.

that control everything from the humidity to the scent of

Roncero also oversees gastro bar Estado Puro in Madrid and

the room, and serving more than 20 courses combined with

Shanghai, but Sublimotion is where he gets to let loose. Yet

a wild entertainment programme of dance and illusion

he was displaying a strong experimental streak long before

accompanied by a carefully curated playlist, Sublimotion

its debut: back in 2012, he launched PacoRonceroTaller in

mark two is equally as impressive as its forerunner. The

the Casino de Madrid, a research lab where, for the first time

new outpost follows the format of the original Ibiza venue,

ever, materials, high-precision technology and engineering

with some variations to the décor and menu tweaks to

techniques usually used in the aviation and film industries

accommodate regional and cultural differences. As Roncero

were applied to the dining experience. Two years later, this

jovially points out, although the newer Middle Eastern

attempt to push the boundaries beyond taste and generate

iteration is different in some respects, overhauling the

new emotions around food had evolved into Sublimotion.

experience for the new location wasn’t a major concern,

Today, at both venues, a multi-disciplinary team of

given that few people are likely to fork out for the planet’s

25 different professionals – ranging from technicians to

most expensive dinner twice.

waiters, magicians, singers, dancers, chefs and designers

SERVICE

© Mario Pinta

030

SERVICE

Sublimotion comprises a two-hour extravaganza, with more than 20 courses served alongside an innovative entertainment programme

“Sublimotion is a theatre – it’s a mix of technology, experience, magic and food.”

– gather each day before service to make sure every

MasterChef appearances and writing – he has

aspect of the experience is executed with as meticulous

published several acclaimed cookbooks – he makes

attention to detail as the evening before. When diners

time to travel frequently to collaborate with his

arrive at Sublimotion Dubai, it is to a relatively

colleagues and contemporaries.

understated scene: an all-white roofless box bearing

For example, we are speaking in the lobby of

each guest’s name projected onto the table. But from

the luxurious Tivoli Palace Hotel Setais in Sintra,

that point on, anything goes. Dishes descend from the

Portugal, where Roncero has travelled to join forces

ceiling on motorised wires, Japanese kaiseki counters

with the hotel’s recently appointed Executive Chef,

materialise seemingly from thin air, Sakura blossom

the Michelin-starred Joachim Koerper, on creating

moves across the walls and ingredients pulse on them

a one-off tasting menu to round off a special

in sync with the movements of the chefs assembling

day at Sintra’s Classical Music Festival. The main

the food on the plates.

event was a mesmerising ballet performance by

At one point, the room appears to descend through

some of the world’s most accomplished ballerinas.

the earth’s crust to a virtual hell’s kitchen, where the

Roncero’s contributions to the menu included

Sublimotion devil dances around the guests and flames

razor clam in a garlic tartlet, marinated pumpkin

lick the walls. Later in the two-hour extravaganza, the

flower and mushroom broth and a melt-almost-

space is transformed into an aeroplane cabin to the

instantaneously-in-the-mouth black butter bass, all

soundtrack of Britney Spears’ ‘Toxic’, at which point

expertly paired with wines from Malhadinha Nova, a

the lobster and caviar course is served on economy

winery in Portugal’s Alentejo region. Koerper’s ‘gold

class-style trays. A giant Jaws-like prosthetic shark

bar’ of foie gras and wagyu with watermelon and two

head has been known to open up to reveal a tuna

dessert courses by the hotel’s pastry chef completed

galette, and Rubik’s Cube beakers of cocktails that

the offering.

seem to be mixing themselves on the table have

“I came not only because of the opportunity to cook

also made an appearance, as well as self-spinning

with Joachim and to combine two different cultures -

turntables displaying the petits fours.

Spain and Portugal,” says Roncero. “I also think it’s

“Think of the craziest thing you can imagine, and

very important to bring my team with me around the

we can do it here,” Roncero grins. “Sublimotion is a

world so they can know other chefs, other kitchens,

theatre – it’s a mix of technology, experience, magic

other ways of working and broaden their knowledge.”

and food. We start with a blank canvas and construct

He is one of many veteran chefs to have taken up

on top of that. In the end we just have one goal: for

the mantle of imbuing the younger generation with

our guests to leave happy.”

enthusiasm for careers in the culinary arts. “They don’t

Sublimotion – each of which he aims to visits at

want to work hard; it’s very difficult to find staff,” he

least three or four times per season – is just one aspect

laments. Last year, he was involved in the creation of

of Roncero’s diverse professional portfolio. Aside

a culinary school, the MOM Culinary Institute, which

from his other restaurants, speaking engagements,

provides vocational training and specialised courses

031

SERVICE

“Think of the craziest thing you can imagine, and we can do it here.”

Sublimotion is where Roncero gets to let loose, playing with multifaceted culinary and theatrical concepts

about the science and culture of gastronomy in

careful study of the cities and potential hotel

the 21st century – though a mismatch between

partners. The main criteria, he says, are that

his objectives and those of his partners resulted

they share the same objectives and are equally

in him walking away from the project. But he

committed to the pursuit of excellence. Dubai

won’t give up easily: “Many students write

and the Mandarin Oriental was an easy decision.

to me every day asking for advice,” he says.

“Dubai is an international city open to the world

“We plan to build a new cooking school, we

and Mandarin Oriental are the best partners we

have lots of ideas and a huge desire to train

could have,” he says.

the professionals of the future. I don’t want my

It’s the diversity of his existence that Roncero

knowledge to be lost – I want to pass it down to

most relishes. “I love my life,” he twinkles, “I

the younger generation.”

love all the parts of my job: the planning, the

As 2022 draws to a close, Roncero’s energy

careful management control, developing new

levels are even higher than usual. This is a man

concepts, creating new dishes together with

who regularly completes Ironman challenges

the team and testing them, customer service

and never misses a New York marathon.

and attending gastronomic congresses around

He took a long holiday earlier in 2022 and

the world.”

is newly refreshed for the second season of

Though a current knee injury may be

Sublimotion Dubai, but also ready to expand his

temporarily slowing him down on the running

empire significantly further. New outposts of

front, his excitement is palpable when asked

Sublimotion are planned for South Korea, Saudi

what other projects are in the pipeline. “New

Arabia and Brazil, for starters – and though

amazing things will come that I hope to be

timeframes are still to be confirmed, what is

able to talk about very soon!” he says. In the

certain is that the prep work will involve a

meantime, there is plenty to keep him busy.

© Mario Pinta

032

Terra

SERVICE

No Limits As one of Italy’s most successful chefs, Enrico Bartolini is famed for a creative cuisine that honours tradition, seasonality and ritual.

Words: Renate Ruge • Portrait Photography: © Paolo Chiodini

S

unlight floods through large windows offering

idyll, the one-star L’Andana. His international outposts

views over Tortona, Milan’s design district,

include the Ristorante Spiga and Fiamma – both launched

where Enrico Bartolini sits on a sofa in pristine

in collaboration with Dining Concepts and located in Hong

chef whites. A neon sign above him reads ‘One

Kong – as well as Ristorante Roberto’s venues in Dubai and

day, I’m gonna make the onions cry’, but the

in Abu Dhabi, in partnership with Skelmore Hospitality.

Italian culinary star’s smile is warm.

Contemporary but classic, Bartolini’s recipes feature

We’re sipping espressos before service in the discreet

simple ingredients fine-tuned to perfection. “I like working

dining room at Mudec, Bartolini’s three-Michelin-starred

with everyday ingredients, but also cooking using special

destination restaurant of only eight tables, located on the

herbs,” he says. “A big part of creativity is about the growing

third floor of Milan’s Museo delle Culture, his flagship venue

process – how to use the seed, the flower and leaf – always

housed in an ultramodern building designed by the British

using the whole of the plant as often the part people throw

architect David Chipperfield. There’s a bustling bistro three

away is the best. I love bitter flavours too. For years, chefs

floors below, but up here the space is tranquil – much like

added sweetness and even sugar to dishes or sauces as sweet

the man himself.

was fashionable, but I find if you cook bitter things slowly,

“A restaurant is like a family involving many layers of creativity and talent,” says Bartolini who, in his forties, holds

they garner natural sweetness in an elegant way yet retain bitter notes, like artichokes.”

more Michelin stars for his restaurants in Italy than any

He strives to offer a different dining experience at each

other chef. In 2016 he became the first chef in the history of

of his restaurants. “Before opening a new restaurant, I look

the Michelin Guide to be awarded four stars simultaneously,

for what’s unique about a place, then match it with local

including two for Mudec. His repertoire now encompasses

talent,” he explains. “Each requires a creative chef, a captain

nine stars, including the cosy one-star Ristorante Casual

who’s always in situ, working with local ingredients and

in Bergamo’s old town, the two-starred Glam, a seductive

specific techniques. I brainstorm with resident chefs, but

dining salon at Palazzo Venart in Venice, and the two-starred

their message must be strong and not completely led by me,

Locanda Sant’Uffizio at Relais Monferrato, a converted 16th-

as that’s not good for the guests.”

century convent owned by LDC Hotels & Resorts in Piedmont.

Bartolini’s reputation is built on dishes that are both at the

There’s also ll Fuoco Sacro at Petra Segreta in Sardinia and

cutting edge and rich in culinary heritage. He often looks to

Il Poggio Rosso Restaurant at Relais & Chateaux Borgo San

old recipe books for inspiration. “Cooking hasn’t changed

Felice in Chiant (both starred), not to mention his Tuscan

a lot,” he reflects. “Of course, there’s less fat and sugar

035

MEETING…

© Paolo Chiodini

SERVICE

Dishes from Bartolini’s restaurants Casual and Glam display his flair for blending modern technique with a traditional approach

“A big part of creativity is about the growing process – how to use the seed, the flower and leaf – always using the whole of the plant as often the part people throw away is the best.”

– but how do we apply today’s techniques without

reins in 2016. He admits: “I was shy at the beginning.

losing something special from the past? I like classic

When Vittorio and Carmen Moretti first asked me to

cooking with a touch of luxury. I don’t need ‘new’ as

take over the restaurant, I thought ‘it’s too beautiful

I’m boring… But I love discovering new things as I

and too far away’ [from Milan]. I was 36, and it would

love to be alive.”

be my third restaurant opening in as many months,

At L’Andana, his approach (which is far from boring)

which seemed like too much.” However, he rose to

translates to a focus on smoked dishes that use zero-

the challenge with the support of the Morettis, whose

miles produce and local seafood. Dinner at his Tuscan

Italian family values he admires strongly and whose

trattoria begins with the onsite baker Lisa briefing

generous entrepreneurial spirit he attributes in no

diners on her fresh-from-the-oven specialities, with

small part the overall success of the restaurant. “We

bread sliced at the table in a gesture intended to

took over L’Andana and were awarded a Michelin

evoke a familiar feeling of home. The ritual seems

star in the first year,” he reflects. “Receiving a star is

doubly appropriate, given that the restaurant itself is

beautiful, showing what a restaurant can do – how it

housed in what was once an ancient granary of the

compares to others.”

Medici villa. Wooden beams and exposed brickwork

He continues: “I’ve learned a lot working at

lend an intimacy to the space, which is peppered

L’Andana, finding a new team to maintain the right

with terracotta bowls and clay plates. The wine

atmosphere for a leading hotel of the world. It’s

cellar displays more than 600 labels, including drops

important to say ‘hello’ to guests but remembering a

produced by the estate’s owners, the Moretti family.

person’s name means so much more. As a destination,

At the heart of the restaurant lies an old stove, often helmed by Executive Chef Bruni Cossio. “I’d never

it has it all; a countryside setting, close to the sea, beautiful inside and out.”

seen a wood oven in a gourmet restaurant before,”

Bartolini himself comes from Tuscany, and grew up

says Bartolini. “Looking outside we realised we could

experimenting in the kitchen from the age of three.

cut and season local wood, using natural charcoal as

He graduated from the F. Martini Professional Hotel

the hero of our menu.”

Institute in Montecatini Terme before moving overseas

This delicious smokiness permeates L’Andana’s

to make his mark as a young chef in the kitchens of

menu, even making it into the next-level risotto

Paolo Petrini in Paris and Mark Page in London. Back

with turnips and home-grown roasted beetroot. The

home, under the guidance of Massimiliano Alajmo at

eggplant on top is cooked over charcoal and spiced, in

Le Robinie restaurant in Oltrepò Pavese, he secured his

an evolution of one of his signature dishes at Mudec.

first Michelin star at the age of just 29, and a second at

The smoked eel and roasted pigeon with fermented

the age of 33 at Devero Ristorante in Cavenago Brianza.

grape sauce from nearby vines are among other star

He is, he says, devoted to Italian produce. “We’re

plates, while a grilled onion dish punches above its

blessed with distinct seasons in Italy,” he says. “You

weight. “I think chefs show you the best of their

only find asparagus in May and June; white asparagus

technique with vegetables,” says Bartolini, citing

is only around for 15 days, so forward planning – which

Cossio’s steak tartare, which replaces the meat with

I love – is essential. If you wait for it to arrive and your

chargrilled sweet potato, as another example.

menu isn’t ready, you’re not cooking asparagus. At

French culinary behemoth Alain Ducasse helmed

L’Andana, you have all the traditions of the Tuscan

this restaurant for eight years before Bartolini took the

land; cows and wild pigs, on this part of the coast, fish

037

SERVICE

“It’s not enough just to have good food.

Invest effort and emotion to give guests the best and they’ll spend more than your expectations.”

038

like sea bass, and arselle [small, juicy clams].

to have good food. Invest effort and emotion to

I’ve never seen them anywhere else.”

give guests the best and they’ll spend more than

It’s a passion that can be a challenge when

your expectations.”

it comes to his venues in Hong Kong and the

He describes himself as “very detailed, not

Middle East. “In Italy we have beautiful eggplant

really like a normal person”, maintaining that

and tomatoes,” he elaborates. “I once bought

while this quality could be seen as a negative,

some tomatoes at a market in Japan to find

“it’s essential for this style of cooking.”

they had no flavour and couldn’t use them.”

Teamwork is also key. “For our industry, it’s

For his Hong Kong venues he imports certain

about the ability to be together and share,”

key ingredients from his homeland, including

he says. “Our world leads us to be extremely

tipo 00 flour. “I used flown-in produce in Dubai

individualistic, but a restaurant experience is

at first, but you get to see what’s good locally,”

not a dish; it’s the result of everything.”

he elaborates. “I’m not keen on the fish in Hong

And as for what he believes his future holds?

Kong, but the meat and vegetables are great,

“I want to do better,” he asserts. “I don’t have

so we pick the best of what’s local and cook it

a business partner, so consolidating what I’ve

with our flair.”

got, with our chefs... We’ll do better together.

For Bartolini, repeat bookings come down

If a restaurant gets another star the chef is

to guest experience. “I want diners to feel

prouder of their place, that can only benefit the

comfortable in a beautiful setting, enjoy a

guest experience.”

wonderful atmosphere and friendly servers,”

Bartolini’s idea of ‘better’ is probably a bar set

he explains. “I’m a gentle person. I like to get

so high most wouldn’t contemplate attempting

to know the person serving me when I eat out.

it; but in his view, the sky’s the limit – and his

All are important elements. It’s not enough just

looks set to twinkle with many more stars yet.

Striking the Balance Hip hotel-diner concept Mollie’s has big plans in the UK – and at its helm is Head of Food Kate Brooke-Green, who discusses her winning formula of fostering passion in teams and keeping things simple in the kitchen.

Words: Shanna McGoldrick

PROFILE Kate Brooke-Green Head of Food, Mollie’s

Putting a rakish spin on the classic American

crowd-pleasing dining experience that blends a

roadside pitstop has placed Mollie’s well and

laidback outlook with culinary originality. “It’s a

truly on the map in the UK. The affordable

nod to American food, but it’s not strictly that,”

As Head of Food at Mollie’s, the fastgrowing concept from Soho House, Kate Brooke-Green has been charged with leading the disruptive brand’s immediate expansion in the UK. Focusing on food strategy, she also heads up people development for an 80-strong foodservice team and will guide the group through the opening of its first city centre concept, set to launch in Manchester in 2023, with onsite F&B outlets including a 164-cover diner, a lounge bar, a shared workspace, private events catering and a grab-and-go offering. Her previous career as a chef and experience as Head of Food Development at The Ivy Collection should stand her in good stead to rise to the challenge.

hotel-diner concept has set itself the mission

embellishes Brooke-Green, explaining that

of transforming travel via a distinctive ‘budget-

flexibility lies at the heart of the menu. “With

luxe’ offering that leans on nostalgia but applies

the food itself, what we’re trying to do is make

a contemporary approach to everything from

it unfussy, but also – and this is a challenge -

in-room tech to its statement interiors, which

I’m really conscious that I want it to stick within

are exclusively designed by Soho House. Its all-

a certain price point. I want it to be accessible

day dining offering is equally as stylish, with

to everybody.” On navigating the challenge of

a menu running the gamut from build-your-

striking the right balance between quality and

own breakfast waffles and pancakes to classic

affordability, she says: “We go out of our way to

American grilled cheese sandwiches, ribs doused

avoid unnecessary frills.”

Upcoming Openings: Manchester, UK (2023)

in BBQ sauce and indulgent bar food such as

Brooke-Green is focused on creating a roster of

loaded nachos, hot wings with blue cheese and

Mollie’s classics, from ice creams to milkshakes,

sweetcorn fritters with spicy mayo. But this is

that incorporate innovation but remain accessible

far from a fanciful undertaking: the group has

for both customers and employees, catering

ambitious expansion plans that include opening

simultaneously to the group’s demographically

numerous venues across the UK over the next

diverse clientele and a business need to keep

three to five years, and has already earmarked

things straightforward as possible for the in-

10 further locations around the country that will

house team. “We’ve got quirky flavours of soft

boost its portfolio, which currently comprises

serve coming for the summer and retro desserts

outlets in Bristol and Oxfordshire. First up is

like banana split,” she hints, adding that lobster

Manchester, where the new Mollie’s will open its

rolls and desserts served tableside are also in the

doors in Q2 of 2023 in the city’s seminal former

pipeline. “Manchester is going to have a different

Granada TV Studios location.

menu and it’s going to have all those snippets of

MAKING FOOD FUN

040

things,” she reveals.

Naturally, sustainability is also a key piece

With its convivial booth seating and its penchant

of the strategy. “Mollie’s has committed

for comfort food, Mollie’s strives to offer a

to ensuring all plastic items are made from

SERVICE

recycled, recyclable and compostable materials

she says. “There’s the restaurant and hospitality

In an effort to foster an inclusive environment,

and has opted for refillable products in its motel

world, but as an offshoot of that that there’s

she ensures that all recipes are clearly

bathrooms,” says Brooke-Green. “Sustainable

a bigger piece; I think that’s super exciting.

photographed and easy to follow on iPads, making

thinking will continue to sit at the heart of its

There’s so much that goes into building a brand,

the process as self-explanatory as possible for

expansion as it implements measures to manage

a restaurant, a business; you can start to inspire

kitchen employees, while also creating the time

environmental impact and further reduce carbon

people in that way.” In Bristol, for example,

for people to pursue training as necessary.

footprint in the years to come.”

Mollie’s is working with hospitality students

Adaptability is also front of mind when it

at local colleges who are invited to come and

comes to her focus on remaining competitive.

PEOPLE POWER

work in-house – and though they might want to

“Inflation is going up, as is the cost of electricity

Brooke-Green initially trained and worked

start out as a chef, there are options for them to

and energy; even to just open the doors is

as a chef for the first chapter of her career –

move into areas such as events or management,

quite an expensive thing, so we have to get the

a foundation she believes provided her with

depending on their talents and interests. “We

balance just right,” she explains of the group’s

an invaluable understanding of the highs and

have an amazing talent base within the business,

imminent launch in Manchester. In response to

lows of working in the hospitality industry. At

a passionate and inclusive team culture, and I

the challenging climate, Mollie’s is testing out

Mollie’s she is driving a culture of positivity in

look forward to working collectively to establish

different workflows and means of harnessing

terms of recruitment and retention, and is keen

inspiring training programmes,” she surmises.

staff resources. “If our diner isn’t busy, or our

to motivate and champion younger generations

bar downstairs isn’t busy, we’re talking about

who are learning the ropes. “What we’re trying to

ALL ABOUT BALANCE

do is inspire people to fall in love with hospitality

Cultivating a sense of workplace wellbeing and

and mentality by looking at cross-training, or

again and give them the grassroots training that

ensuring that staff are able to enjoy a reasonable

perhaps moving somebody away to provide help

will allow them to succeed,” she explains.

work-life balance is a major factor in achieving

upstairs in the rooms, because they might be

Given the group’s appetite for growth, an

these sought-after retention levels. “The world

really busy,” she says. “We’re trying to build a

effective staff retention strategy is crucial

is so fast-changing and I’m glad that the

more harmonious business that can work a lot

– but Brooke-Green believes that openness,

hospitality industry is changing for the better,”

more effectively, as opposed to everyone working

transparency and an ability to help employees

says Brooke-Green. “Looking back at my past,

in silo. It comes with its challenges, but I think

discover various facets of the hospitality machine

I wouldn’t want somebody to work an 80-hour

giving a really good work-life balance and having

can be used to help people find their passion.

week in a London restaurant and slog really

a great working atmosphere is so important… If

“Whenever I talk to young people coming into

hard and then be asked to do something like

you reward your staff and look after them then

this industry, I think it’s important to talk about

mend the tiles at the end of the shift. That’s not

effectively, they will reward you and make it a

all the different possibilities that are out there,”

particularly inspiring.”

great business.”

how we can create a really positive culture

041

STARTER

The Hudson Rooms Capella HANOI

Words: Eleanor Howard Photography: © Studio Periphery

IN A BITE Owner / Developer: Sun Hospitality Group Operator: Capella Hotel Group Interior Design: Brewin Design Office F&B Manager: William Pravda www.capellahotels.com

042

C

apella Hanoi is taking an epicurean

window frames presented an opportunity to fit

pilgrimage to New York with The Hudson

a complex vaulted ceiling system into the large

Rooms, a 120-seat rooftop restaurant

room. The ceilings are inspired by the Grand

and oyster bar inspired by the aesthetics of

Central Oyster Bar, one of New York’s first

1920s New York and the renaissance of travel.

proper seafood restaurants that opened in the

Envisioned by Hong Kong and Singapore-

1920s, and the design naturally flows from this

based Brewin Design Office, The Hudson

anchor reference. Our scheme is designed to

Rooms is divided into two areas with the main

be reminiscent of this era with details such as

restaurant characterised by archways, vaulted

trims and stepping motifs.”

ceilings and highly-reflective materials. “Our

Reflecting the glamour of the interiors,

aim was to bring out the golden late afternoon

the F&B offering takes guests on a culinary

light,” explains Nicole Misir, Director of Brewin

voyage similar to the one made by explorer

Design Office. “Hence we clad the length of the

Henry Hudson upon his arrival to New York.

south-facing wall with frosted bronze-tinted

The elevated seafood menu pays homage to

mirrors to reflect the sun that pours in through

traditional recipes from the golden era of the

arch-framed windows.” Contrastingly, the

‘Big Oyster’, prepared with a contemporary

members’ lounge uses darker-toned timber,

twist. The beverage programme, curated by

stone and stucco to cultivate a more intimate

William Pravda, follows the same approach and

and cosy atmosphere.

includes a vibrant cocktail menu that follows

“The building’s architecture was a big

the routes of the legendary trains that departed

influence for the design of The Hudson Rooms,”

from Grand Central’s platforms to weave their

reveals Misir. “The gracious height of the glass

way across North America throughout the 1920s

enclosure on the roof and the vertical mullioned

and 1930s, from Chicago and Miami to Canada.

REVEAL’UP An elegant, technical and versatile crystal glass stemglass A chimney in the upper part of the bowl for a unique design, a high level of comfort in tasting, but

also

to

attenuate

the

perception of alcohol in young wines

STARTER

Velvet Corinthia LONDON

Words: Catherine Martin Photography: © Alex Upton

IN A BITE Owner: Corinthia Group Operator: Corinthia Hotels Interior Design: David Collins Studio Head Bartender: Salvatore Calabrese Bar Manager: Christian Maspes www.corinthia.com

044

A

palette rich in colour, material and

secluded indulgence,” explains Simon Rawlings,

texture has come to define the David

Creative Director at David Collins Studio. “It’s

Collins Studio aesthetic in recent years,

about a feeling, the discreet excitement through

with the London-based firm responsible for

the pleasure of music and cocktails.”

the interiors of some of the world’s best bars.

Indeed, the live music and cocktails are

Having designed The Connaught Bar, Artesian

central to the experience, and at the helm

at The Langham and the original Blue Bar at The

is acclaimed bartender Salvatore Calabrese,

Berkeley, the team have worked their magic at

aka The Maestro. His menu features 1920s

another of London’s luxury hotels.

classics such as Champagne Charlie and the

Tasked with transforming the former Bassoon

prohibition-era Bee’s Knees, as well as 2020s

bar at Corinthia, David Collins Studio has

creations including Velvet Smash, a vibrant mix

injected a healthy dose of glamour, courtesy of

of Tanqueray No. 10, basil and lemon juice. And

sumptuous interiors that speak of a bygone era.

naturally, Calabrese’s much-loved martinis

Entered through heavy drapes, the venue – aptly

make the list, prepared in his signature style of

named Velvet – is cloaked in lashings of red

bringing theatre to cocktail-making.

velvet, with the sumptuous upholstery covering

“We want to celebrate the magic and

armchairs and banquettes, and hanging as

theatre of hospitality, with a cocktail list of

theatre-style curtains that frame the bar to

sophisticated classics, that have stood the test

dramatic effect. Seductive lighting, an elegant

of time, alongside modern drinks which are

marble fireplace and newly commissioned

now well-established in the 2020s,” enthuses

artwork by Robson Stannard complete the

Calabrese. “Velvet is a seductive, intimate bar

look. “For me, Velvet captures the essence of a

that we know will become one of the most

mood – the spirit of intimacy, extravagance and

desirable destinations in London.”

STOMP! - exclusive novelty 2023

Visit us: Ambiente, Frankfurt a.M. 03.02.2023 - 07.02.2023 Horeca: hall 11.0 booth C30 | Retail: hall 12.1 booth C43 W W W . Z I E H E R . C O M

STARTER

The Vasper Mondrian Park Avenue NEW YORK

Words: Shanna McGoldrick Photography: © Paolo Verzani

M

id-Century, big city dining has returned

equally polished: in addition to Hawkins’ take

to downtown New York with the launch

on the classic gin martini – which features

of The Vasper, the new culinary offering

Txakolina vermouth, house giardiniera and

from Mondrian Park Avenue. Inspired by the

spiced olive brine for an extra kick – the venue’s

seminal design movement, this 120-cover

cocktail menu standouts include a Bitter Rum

American bistro doffs its cap to the 1950s and

Mojito made with mint bitter caramel, and a

60s with a lively bar, softly-lit dining rooms

Mezcal Paloma Whip that incorporates dry

and tasting counter that DMDesign and Mckay

grapefruit soda and chilli salt.

Architecture have rendered both minimalist and

American,

the

such as lush greenery, cosy booths and a show-

is executed in a more eclectic interpretation,”

stopping chandelier.

says Koustefanou. “Our tasting counter affords

to a more glamorous age. Led by chef Nick

046

classically

modernisation of the notably Mid-Century dishes

But the decor isn’t alone in harking back

IN A BITE Operator: Ennismore F&B Partner: Helios Hospitality Interior Design: DMDesign, Mckay Architecture Executive Chef: Nick Koustefanou Beverage Director: Evan Hawkins www.sbe.com

“Though

sophisticated, through the inclusion of details

us the opportunity to create unique menus for private clients and events.”

Koustefanou and mixologist Evan Hawkins,

Paul Seres, Founder and COO of the venue’s

The Vasper honours an era of opulent dining

partner, Helios Hospitality, adds: “The Vasper

and deals made over midday cocktails, offering

is a reflection of both New York’s culinary

a prix-fixe martini lunch that is sure to evoke

heyday and the continued innovation we see in

tingly warm feelings of nostalgia in diners.

modern restaurants. With the return of office

Menu highlights include decadent bistro classics

culture, happy hours and business dinners,

such as beef tartare with devilled egg mousse

The Mondrian struck us as the ideal location

and toasted sourdough, and an indulgent lobster

for honouring the culinary and cocktail culture

thermidor for two. The drinks programme is

made famous in postwar America.”

Amef a’ sMet r opol ei sar anget hat

combi nesqual i t ywi t hanex cl us i ve des i gnandf unct i onal i t y.Met r opol e i samodel wi t hl ong,s l enderl i nes andas l opi ngedgeatt hebot t om.

T hedes i gni sbas edoncont empor ar y ci t yar chi t ect ur eandhasal uxur i ous andmoder nappear ance.

www. amef a. com

MAIN COURSE

Legacy The Grand YORK Sustainable British dining is given a creative twist at York’s new fine-dining venue.

Words: Shanna McGoldrick Photography: © Courtesy of The Grand, York

F

rom the Romans to the Vikings, various

The revamp showcases the stately original

remarkable civilisations have forged,

oak panelling and Edwardian architectural

chiselled and knocked York into the

features of the building, which was constructed

multifarious historical city it is today. Though

in 1906 as the headquarters of the North

famous for its mediaeval walls, the city’s diverse

Eastern Railway company, with contemporary

infrastructure includes Georgian townhouses,

decorative techniques woven throughout.

a Victorian railway station and centuries-old

Blueprint murals, sculptural lighting and

cobbled streets, with the stitched-together

industrial ironwork pay tribute to the engineers

architecture bearing the smudgy, stone-worn

and architects of the city’s industrial heritage,

handprints of time on practically every surface.

while also maintaining a cosseting and relaxing

Legacy, then, is a fitting moniker for York’s

ambience for its diners.

latest innovation: a fine-dining restaurant at

Legacy’s culinary experience actually begins

one of the most eminent hotels in what is, these

in the adjacent White Rose Lounge, where

days, firmly a foodie destination. Luxurious

the team serves arrival cocktails and canapés

independent hotel The Grand, which sits tucked

before inviting guests into the restaurant for

just inside the city walls in easy view of the

an overview of the culinary concept. On the

River Ouse, is making a statement with the

menu: a varied and balanced eight-course

latest addition to its culinary offering, which

tasting menu that delivers locally sourced

opened its doors last August.

and sustainably crafted dishes that spotlight

The 26-cover restaurant is housed in a

seasonal vegetables, regional produce and Head

striking circular room (formerly a private dining

Chef Ahmed Abdalla’s imaginative approach

room), refashioned by the interiors studio Faber

to contemporary British cuisine. Each dish,

Design into an intimate yet elegant space.

presented on Goodfellows dinnerware, is

049

Legacy’s varied and balanced tasting menu delivers sustainably crafted tasting courses that spotlight British produce

050

accompanied by a wine pairing hand selected

Parker house roll whose warm, pillowy dough

by Derek Scaife, the in-house sommelier.

is best smothered in a generous slather of the

“This must be a destination offering more

goat’s herb butter sourced from a supplier in

than just great food – of course this will

neighbouring Lancashire. An autumnal menu

be paramount, but I want to really elevate

then turns to a Jersey Royal velouté made from

the guest experience from start to finish,”

oak-smoked cheddar and juicy chicken skin that

confirms Abdalla. Sustainable sourcing is also

is both hearty and restorative, rounded out by

an imperative aspect of the process, and most of

an oaky 2018 Domaine de Montmain, Grand

the produce that makes it onto the plate comes

Reserve chardonnay. Then comes salt-baked

from within a 50-mile radius of York. “It’s

celeriac served with black garlic and truffle –

vitally important to ensure we know where our

a favourite of Abdalla’s – and halibut sourced

produce is from and develop local relationships

from the local fishmonger Fowlers, presented

with our suppliers,” stresses the chef.

with cauliflower and mousseline sauce. A trio of

The wider hotel’s easy, established charm can

Yorkshire lamb dished up with seasonal turnip

be felt in the rhythm and pacing of the courses

and courgette digs into the agricultural roots

at Legacy, with each accompanied by a brief

of the region, while the restaurant’s signature

explanation of its ingredients and the drink it

grand honey dessert, made with yuzu and

has been paired with; an interaction that invites

elderflower, comes courtesy of the bees kept in

diners to press for further information, or tuck

hives on the hotel’s roof. “I usually go out to

straight in as preferred. Comfort is critical

the table at the end of the meal with it to allow

here, from the warming candlelight and soft

the guests to cut a cube of honey straight from

acoustics to the plates themselves. The culinary

the honeycomb - I think that is as local as it can

experience begins with a fresh-from-the-oven

get!” says Abdalla.

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Gastronomically speaking, Legacy strives to

rather than non-alcoholic wines to tease out the

be as local as possible – but when it comes to the

flavours of each dish. “It helps me to use fresh

wines, adventure is the name of the game. The

produce, and using the same process with wines

tasting menu offers diners either a classic or a

to pair the cocktails, such as acidity, mouth feel

premium pairing experience – each curated by

and depth of flavour,” he divulges.

Scaife, who painstakingly matches the flavours

A constantly-evolving seasonal menu

and textures of each course to a finely-balanced

demands that Scaife and Abdalla work closely

grape-based counterpart. “I aim to take the

together on eliciting optimum pairings and a

guest on a journey around the world, and one

flawless tasting experience for guests – “the

of the challenges in creating wine flights is

man is a walking encyclopaedia,” says Abdalla

using only one country once,” the sommelier

of his colleague. As the venue’s scope grows

explains. “The main aim, where possible, is to

and the culinary team looks to nurture close

use grapes that guests may not know of: for

relationships with more local suppliers, this

example, Austria offers some great gastronomic

collaborative dynamic will remain the essence

whites and red wine that most may not have

of Legacy’s concept, with great importance

experienced.” And lesser-known grapes might

placed on offering diners a personal touch.

not be the only discovery in store for diners:

“The experience we provide is very intimate,

“Vegan wines are important and highlighted on

which you won’t find elsewhere,” concludes

my list, but also organic and biodynamic ones,

Abdalla. Like the relentless innovations and

and the approach to winemaking that these

transformations that have shaped its history

demand,” explains Scaife.

and landscape, York’s newest gastronomic

When it comes to non-alcoholic alternatives, Scaife and his team prefer to pair mocktails

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hotspot will be hoping to leave its own indelible mark on the fabric of the city.

IN A BITE Owner: Splendid Hospitality Group Interior Design: Faber Design Head Chef: Ahmed Abdalla F&B Manager: Seif Djouani Head Sommelier: Derek Scaife Dinnerware and Serveware: Goodfellows www.thegrandyork.co.uk

THE ART OF SERVICE CROSS FINISHINGS HEPP finishings add that special something for a magical table ambiance, e.g. stonewashed, glass bead blasted or brushed combined with the stylish PVD variants gold, pale gold, copper, gun metal or black.

AVES – Dynamic lines The design of HEPP’s cutlery collection AVES is based on the contours of a bird’s wing. The streamlined appearance has many stylish details that leave a lasting impression and the interplay of strong and slender sensations lends particular elegance. AVES looks graceful and yet impressively adds the finishing touches to a luxuriously set table.

www.hepp.de

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Da Vittorio The Reverie Saigon HO CHI MINH CITY The Reverie Saigon ups the fine-dining ante by opening the first Vietnamese outpost of a family-run, triple-Michelin-starred brand known for its unmistakable style of Italian gastronomy.

Words: Neena Dhillon • Photography: Courtesy of The Reverie Saigon

W

hen The Reverie Saigon debuted in Ho Chi Minh City in 2015, it introduced a plethora of new eateries to the scene, including an Italian venue. Fast forward

seven years and the Vietnamese appetite for Italian dining experiences shows no signs of abating. As a result, the hotel’s culinary offering is moving up a gear with the opening of Ho Chi Minh’s first fine-dining Italian restaurant that brings a three-Michelin-starred brand direct from the Bergamasco foothills to the busiest boulevard in Vietnam’s biggest city.

Both Pope Francis and former US president Barack Obama have eaten Da Vittorio’s signature paccheri pasta, the large tube-like morsels the perfect vehicle for a rich tomato sauce that is finished tableside for a touch of theatre. At the new Vietnamese outpost, this tradition is replicated to perfection

by Chef Matteo Fontana, who tosses the vibrant orange-red sauce at speed to keep the air within before plating up for diners, their clothes preserved from splatters by fancy bibs rustled up especially for this course. The lucky head of the table receives the whole pan and is challenged to follow the great Italian tradition of ‘fare la scarpetta’, which means using the homemade bread to soak up the tomato-rich spoils.

To ensure the integrity of this interaction, Fontana spent two years training with the Cerea family in Italy. Brothers Chicco and Bobo are responsible today for this family-run

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In step with the rest of The Reverie Saigon, Da Vittorio features Italian furnishings set amid a backdrop of striated marbles and polished stone

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gastronomic brand having inherited the reins

has time for a joke and smile. They treat people

of the flagship restaurant from their parents,

really well. Diners love talking to the family who

who originally began serving diners in the

make everyone feel at home.”

Bergamo region in the 1960s. For the 2022

Fontana is no stranger to hotel kitchens:

launch of Da Vittorio Saigon, the brothers flew

stints at Leela Palaces Hotels & Resorts in

in to give Fontana their seal of approval, and

India and Le Cirque in Abu Dhabi took his

they continue to work closely with him on the

career global following time in Italy working

menu as well as to ensure the warmth and

with seasoned Michelin-starred chefs such as

family atmosphere of the original is reflected

Ciccio Sultano. This is his first role in Vietnam

in Vietnam. Such is his devotion to the family’s

as an Executive Chef and he’s excited to be at

approach that one of the first things Fontana

the helm of the second Da Vittorio restaurant

did on arrival in the country was to locate an

in Asia, with the first already a hit in Shanghai.

organic farm in Da Lat that could grow tomatoes

To cement the team, F&B Manager Roberto Cini

for the famous sauce, with seeds provided to the

Mencacci brings a track record of running Italian

growers direct from Bergamo.

restaurants in Asia while Head Sommelier Ngan

“What’s wonderful about their approach is

Tram is in charge of the 400-label cellar and

that there are no airs and graces,” says Fontana.

shares her encyclopaedic knowledge of vintages

“As a chef, you are invited to become part of

and signature cocktails.

the family and learn exactly how they charge

In step with the rest of The Reverie Saigon, the

traditional recipes with innovation and modern

restaurant is decked out with imported Italian

techniques. Chicco is the more serious of the

furnishings and handcrafted Italian mosaics

two but has a great sense of humour while Bobo

set against a backdrop of striated marbles and

is directly involved in the cooking and always

polished stone. Slate grey dining chairs and

See us at Ambiente Hall 11 Stand D49 Featured Product: CT9551 Murra Ash 10.5” (27cm) Coupe Plate

www.utopia-tableware.com /utopiatableware @utopiatableware

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Egg a la’Egg comprises four different and discernible egg textures in a martini glass topped with caviar

Frette linen tablecloths lend a certain restraint to the décor, which is otherwise unashamedly opulent, rich in dark and sumptuous colours, and wall friezes made from the aforementioned mosaics. European and Asian porcelain brands including Legle, Narumi and Italesse lend gravitas to the dining experience, while Catellani & Smith is responsible for the sophistication of the table adornments. To match the grandeur of the restaurant, service is reassuringly formal yet friendly, with waiters keen to impart information about the gastronomic experience while Fontana pops by at regular intervals to chat about ingredients and techniques.

The eight-course tasting menu ensures that diners in Saigon have an opportunity to sample all the Cerea family’s greatest hits.

Of course, there’s the Vittorio-style paccheri pasta paired with a fruity Casanova di Neri Rosso di Montalcino. Before this legendary dish, however, guests are treated to another of the family’s hallmarks, fresh seafood brought to life with expressive notes, mouth-watering accompaniments and subtle twists of flavour.

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From gambero rosso delicately fragranced with

mushroom broth before the sweet tooth is

a gazpacho foam and given a zing with a dash

satiated with a dreamy, deconstructed tiramisu.

of lemon curd to a clever hot-and-cold raw

To close the culinary journey, it’s a return to

tuna spaghetti with a bagna cauda sauce and

Bergamo for a typical treat of vanilla cream-

onto a joyous langoustine dish that combines

fuelled cannoncini.

Italian ingredients with Vietnamese flavours,

With such a strong presence of the Italian

the opening gambit is highly memorable. Wine

flagship, is there room for Fontana’s own plates?

pairings of a classic Italian Gavi and Sicilian

“Of course, we will retain the signatures from

Planeta La Segreta Il Bianco are well considered

Italy but we also have a few plates specific to

choices: invigorating, fresh and bright on the

Saigon,” he says. “Take our linguine crab, which

palate. The creaminess of a Mediterranean

uses three different types of the crustacean, two

turbot with coconut is followed by the dish that

of them local, flavoured with mint, candied

won the family their third star back in 2010. Egg

lemon and a little lemon gel. We’re also keen

a la’Egg exemplifies Da Vittorio’s philosophy

to showcase seasonal Italian ingredients, with a

of tradition with innovation, comprising four

focus this winter on white truffle, for example.”

different and discernible egg textures in a

He concludes by observing that the Vietnamese

martini glass topped with Amur Prestige caviar.

market is ready for Da Vittorio’s level of

Complemented by a glass of Terlaner cuvee, it is

assured and elevated fine-dining experience.

easy to see why the decadent dish shone for its

Underpinned by expert service and unfolding

originality and complexity when first sampled

in an ambience that is alluringly Italian, surely

by the Michelin inspector over ten years ago.

it won’t be long before the Saigon outpost wins

But the tasting menu has yet more to reveal.

its own recognition on awards lists and, maybe

Pan-seared black cod swims in an impeccable

even, in stars.

IN A BITE Owner: WMC Group Operator: Da Vittorio Executive Chef: Matteo Fontana F&B Manager: Roberto Cini Mencacci Head Sommelier: Ngan Tram www.thereveriesaigon.com

cook dine live

VISIT US AMBIENTE 3 - 7 February 2023 hall 8.0 G50 | hall 12.1 C22

Terre Castlemartyr Resort CORK Chef Vincent Crepel adds a dash of theatre to an ambitiously modern fine-dining restaurant on a traditional Irish estate.

Words: Shanna McGoldrick • Photography: © Barry Murphy

A

winter mist rolls through the mossy ruins of an 800-year-old castle built by The Knights Templar, slinks across frostbitten parklands stretching towards a glassy lake and wraps itself

around a stately-looking 17th-century manor house. The scene ticks just about every box on the Irish fairytale fantasy checklist – and indeed Castlemartyr Resort, which sits on 220 acres of manicured countryside just outside of Cork, does an excellent line in Celtic charm.

But following Singapore-based Stanley Quek and Loh Lik Peng’s purchase of the estate in 2021, the hotel has been quietly undergoing something of a cosmopolitan, contemporary revival.

Chief amongst the updates is the introduction of fine-dining restaurant Terre, which opened its doors in September. The venue is the theoretical and culinary embodiment of French chef Vincent Crepel’s professional journey – which has taken him from the kitchens of Paris to Singapore – and it offers diners a heady gastronomic experience rooted in classical Gallic cooking injected with the zesty flavours of Asia, crafted using produce from Ireland’s verdant terroir.

“The philosophy is based on hospitality, ingredients and the journey,” surmises Crepel. “It’s about welcoming people to a place with a lot of heritage that’s doing things in a modern way.”

This journey isn’t merely conceptual: during the course of Terre’s tasting menu, guests move physically between various rooms that differ drastically in terms of ambiance and design. Things kick off in the salon, an historical and lavish space where drinks are served

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Terre’s preservation corridor showcases pickled and brined produce harvested from the hotel’s grounds and the local region

by a crackling open fire, before diners are guided into a

How does he strike the balance between producing

dramatic black corridor lined, apothecary-style, with all

innovative, internationally inspired dishes and remaining

manner of jars containing pickled and brined herbs, fruits

sustainable? “I think sustainability is also about explaining

and vegetables. This living library of natant produce –

to the guest what this is and where it’s from,” he concludes,

dubbed the preservation corridor – showcases goods that

adding that the team sources whatever they can from County

have mostly come from Castlemartyr’s onsite garden or the

Cork or from Ireland as a whole, working closely with growers,

surrounds, presented with a theatrical flair that neatly sums

farmers and fishermen. That said, Terre’s uninhibited

up Crepel’s approach.

international approach is important in differentiating it from

Double doors swing open to reveal the kitchen in all its

other high-end seasonal Irish restaurants. “I’ve travelled a

loud, smoky glory, and from behind the pass the chefs look

lot; there are a lot of amazing ingredients all over the world

up in unison to greet new arrivals with the rallying cry:

and I think people also like to discover things at some point,

“Welcome!” It’s an unexpected touch and one that sets the

like Buddha’s Hands from Southeast Asia or the flavour of

tone for a heartfelt brand of hospitality that Crepel was keen

kaffir lime” he says. “I think people should be aware of

to convey. There are canapés – artistic single-bite morsels

them, and I’m happy to share it with them.”

that break into explosions of flavour and texture – more

The venue, however, remains firmly rooted in its locale:

drinks, and an explanation of the ageing fridge where meat

everything from the tables and chairs to the cutlery is made

and fish from across Ireland and France awaits its fate.

in Ireland, while steak knives that come from Armagh were

Then it’s into the modern, almost austere, dining room for

adapted from hunting knives and crafted from the bog

the main courses, followed by digestifs and petit fours in

wood that the Irish have been using to heat their homes

the lounge. The whole experience – in true Irish fashion

for centuries. A few delicate china tableware and serveware

– proceeds at an unhurried pace, clocking in at more than

pieces from France and Asia accentuate the narrative.

three hours duration.

As for the food - bold flavours, unexpected textures and

“This used to be a boarding school, so there are a lot of

exquisite presentation are par for the course. The opening

different rooms and I felt that we could be very intimate in

canapés estsblish the mood, with smoked milk-fed veal

each room,” explains Crepel of the decision to divide the

served with kalamata olive, anchovies escabeche and white

dinner experience into different factions. “It doesn’t feel like

button mushroom, and blue lobster from the neighbouring

everybody’s in one room, and you can really create a personal

village of Ballycotton presented in a celeriac casing and

connection to each table and to each guest.”

accompanied by dill mayo, confit tomato and dried hibiscus.

As its name suggests, Terre focuses on the surrounding

Once in the main room, the offering becomes even more

land and the people that populate it – but it also nods to the

creative; aged Blue Fin Tuna belly is combined with verjus

worldlier concept of travel and the discovery of far-flung

and purple radish and marinated in trout vinegar, served

places. Crepel teases out this theme by taking diners on an

with trout roe from Kilkenny, while the chawanmushi sees

adventurous global tour, through the creative presentation of

steamed dashi, foie gras, eel, wagyu ham and mushroom

rare and exotic ‘star’ produce such as Norwegian hand-dived

coulis combined in a powerful, earthy punch. Turbot sitting

scallops, the southeast Asian fingered citron Buddha’s Hand,

in a lake of vermouth beurre blanc and served up with

and dried Mauritius pineapple.

jasmine caviar and rose oil is delicately luxurious, and the

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main course on Supper’s visit – French quail,

overseas visitors to discover the hotel. “I would

aged for seven days and cooked over bincho,

like this place to become a place to travel for,”

served with celeriac extraction, pied de mouton

he says, an ambition that will surely be bolstered

and smoked porcini oil – was at once surprising

by the reputation of Loh Lik Peng’s Unlisted

and immediately comforting. Petit fours see

Collection of hotels and restaurants in London,

Crepel indulge in a touch of nostalgia, courtesy

Shanghai, Sydney and Singapore. Crepel also

of robust chestnut honey madeleines and the

has big plans for a Terre breakfast featuring the

light-as-air cream and icing-sugar sponge cake

jams, honey and charcuterie produced onsite,

confection that is the St Tropez. Wine pairings

is currently working on a cookbook and would

throughout focus on family-owned producers

eventually like to open a boutique within the

and highlight biodynamic and organic methods.

hotel. The goal is to encourage culinary breaks

Cork has a reputation for being Ireland’s

that capitalise on the property’s remoteness,

food region, but why did Crepel feel that the

with the chef joking: “The good thing about

Castlemartyr Resort specifically was the right

this place is the location, and the bad thing is

place to launch his first solo venture outside

the location.”

of France? “I felt like the space was great and

The most important thing for Crepel is that

the area, which is actually quite off-the-map,

guests, regardless of their prior exposure to

taught me a lot about being very focused,” he

fine dining, feel welcome. “I want people to

says. “The space is amazing and I think what

feel at ease, I want them to feel relaxed and

we have – Terre – I’m privileged to have that.”

I want them to be open-minded as much as

Currently the majority of diners are Irish,

they can,” he says. “I think the magic happens

which Crepel loves, but he hopes to attract a

when they meet the team, and they understand

more international audience soon, helping

the journey.”

IN A BITE Owner: Loh Lik Peng, Stanley Quek Operator: Unlisted Collection Architecture and Interior Design: John Duffy Design Group Chef: Vincent Crepel Head Sommelier: Filip Palfi www.unlistedcollection.com

Mural Farmhouse WunderLocke MUNICH An ambitious F&B concept at Locke’s new Munich outpost brings an approachability to fine dining and emphasises the importance of eating local.

Words: Guy Dittrich Photography: © Edmund Dabney (unless otherwise stated)

T

he rooftop of WunderLocke in Munich’s lively Sendling neighbourhood boasts views of the snow-capped peaks of the Bavarian Alps, which, come summertime, will

make a theatrical backdrop for enjoying light bites and aperitifs at a pop-up bar. Amongst the dining tables and lounge seating, raised beds are abundant with plant life that serves as the kitchen garden – a telling hint as to the F&B ethos that prevails within.

Flying collectively under the name Mural Farmhouse, WunderLocke’s F&B offering comprises five venues set across seven floors, spanning an all-day à la carte restaurant, a café, bar, rooftop and – in an ambitious move for the hotel – a fine-dining venue with a tasting menu. The philosophy behind the concept is quite literally written on the walls, with bold graffiti-style writing – courtesy of the artist Stohead – revealing the phrase ‘Eat Local. Drink Natural.’

“Our eat local, drink natural ethos underpins everything we do at Mural Farmhouse,” explains WunderLocke’s Head Chef Rico Birndt. “By approaching the project through the lens of sustainability, we challenged ourselves to experiment with new cooking methods that celebrate seasonality in its purest form.”

The circularity of the hotel’s culinary sphere is also seen in other elements of the project; notably the re-purposing of the concrete structure of a former Siemens office building

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© Lenka Li Lilling

© Lenka Li Lilling

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Mural Farmhouse’s ingredients are all sourced from within the region, with ‘eat local’ an important part of the culinary narrative

and the approach to the interiors taken by London-

all the hotel’s venues. That they have been invited to

based studio, Holloway Li. “Our design incorporates

dinner gives a good indication of the level of supplier

a series of biophilic inserts,” explains Co-Founder

relationships. Flour and eggs come from Billesberger

and Creative Director Alex Holloway. “Dense free-

Hof, an organic farm half an hour away, and the fresh

flowing planting and natural materials such as timber,

milk and butter from the dairy farm Alztaler Molkerei,

terrazzo and raffia provide a natural counterpoint to

near the Austrian border. Organic bakeries Wagner

the omnipresence of concrete.”

and Julius Brantner, in the nearby neighbourhood

In the fine-dining restaurant, where floor-to-

of Schwabing, supply pastries and sourdough bread

ceiling windows look out to a sunken garden terrace

respectively; the fish is from Schliersee, a picturesque

complete with plunge pool, furniture is crafted from

lake some 50km south; and meat is sourced from

large-format terrazzo and timber, while mirrored

Gutshof Polting, a fifth-generation farming business

ceiling panels ripple like the wind on water. Sitting

that supplies the city with the best lamb – though

lightly on the existing building, the design allows

mostly Mural Farmhouse takes meat from wild, free-

for flexibility of configuration. The adjacent café-bar

range animals that Polting hunt themselves.

doubles as an extensive lounge and co-working space,

“We are very strict about the local sourcing,”

whilst upstairs is a perfectly-sized, moody cocktail

explains Maetzing, pointing out how useful the rooftop

bar with plush velvet and plump leather upholstery.

garden has been this first summer. Strawberries,

WunderLocke, which opened its doors in the

lemon verbena, salads and herbs have all been

summer of 2022, is the largest of Locke’s 12 hotels

plentiful – and there are plans to add bees into the mix

to date, and the brand’s second outpost in Munich.

this spring. Forbidden items include exotic fruits: no

The Mural Farmhouse concept follows a successful

mango, berries or even bananas featured in Supper’s

collaboration with Moritz Meyn and Wolfgang Hingerl

early winter breakfast fruit selection, underlining the

– the masterminds behind the city’s hip Michelin-

commitment to seasonal offerings.

starred restaurant Mural – on the Bambule! bar at

A little more freedom has been allowed when it

sister hotel, Schwan Locke, just a few kilometres

comes to the wine list. “We are international with

away. “After working with Mural to create Bambule!

our wine but all of it is organic and mostly natural,”

we knew they were the perfect partners to create a

explains Maetzing. In the fine-dining restaurant, all

distinctive offering at WunderLocke,” says Eric Jafari,

nine pairings accompanying the 12-course menu come

Chief Development Officer and Creative Director of

from Europe: earthy wines including a champagne

WunderLocke’s parent company Edyn.

from the eight-hectare Benoit Marguet estate, and

As the name suggests, Mural Farmhouse’s

some whites with hints of orange.

ingredients are sourced from various farms across the

Alcohol-free pairing alternatives are practically

region. Martin and Charlotte at the nearby Hand &

a baseline requirement these days, so the team

Erde supply vegetables. “It is a 30-minute drive each

has developed a range of homemade kefirs and

week to collect our vegetables as they are too small to

kombuchas for non-drinkers. Unusually, the kefirs

make deliveries,” says Jan Maetzing, F&B Manager of

are water-based, making their fruity-herby profile

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© Lenka Li Lilling

Harvest from the rooftop garden includes strawberries, lemon verbena and herbs, which are used in an array of dishes

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both refreshing and longer-lasting than milk

Supplementing the back-to-basics ideas of

alternatives. The tea-based fermentation of the

preservation are three, glass-fronted dry-ageing

kombuchas provides a tannin-like taste that is

fridges, their picture windows full of hanging

more suitable as a replacement for red wines.

cuts of meat, carcasses of fish and venison,

The results of these fermentation and pickling

salamis, root vegetables and, for the winter, a

techniques are proudly stacked on the top shelf

whole dryer full of goose – all of which form

of Mural Farmhouse’s bar, where huge glass

part of Birndt’s broader view on sustainability.

jars of beets, cabbage, pears, rhubarb, verbena

He waves to the dryers, explaining: “By ageing

and asparagus adorn the wall. The approach

the produce under stable conditions, it allows

is a welcome and pragmatic extension of the

strong flavours to develop.” The fish bones are

always-too-short spring asparagus ‘spargel

reduced and then fermented for three months

saison’ for which Bavaria is famous.

at 60°C to make a fish garum, while the meat

During Supper’s dinner, seasonal items

stripped from carcasses is for the homemade

on the winter fine-dining menu included a

salami, demonstrating a truly nose-to-tail

fantastic amuse bouche triptych created to look

approach of reduced waste and great flavours.

like a posy and good enough to wear on a lapel,

Vegetables, too, are aged: mushrooms dried

featuring five different types of delicate cabbage

for six months taste like chocolate, while

leaf served with a creamy blue cheese sauce.

certain radishes give the intense flavour of

There was a mouthful of crunchy, charred salsify

smoked bacon and red beets take on the chewy

topped with a smoked cheese, alongside a soup

consistency of ham.

combining the juice of roasted mushrooms and

Moving through the fine-dining menu, a

oil of black peppercorns served in a white bowl

dried wild boar fillet is served, its tangy softness

from the Base series by Piet Boon for Serax.

contrasting with a crusty sourdough bread and

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blue cheese and butter mix, itself stored for

the idea for a unique gastronomic concept like

two months to develop a powerful flavour (a

Mural Farmhouse for a long time,” says Meyn.

carpaccio of the same boar sees its way on to

“From breakfast through to the relaxed fine-

the à la carte menu in the all-day restaurant).

dining menu, we wanted to provide guests with

A light and mineral Riesling Kabinett Röttgen

a unique culinary experience. With partners

from Mosel Valley counters the richness. A

like Edyn this vision was able to be realised

section of crispy-skinned, soft-fleshed pike

as they were just as enthusiastic about this

perch is served with a beurre blanc with fish

perfect match between a unique hotel and a top

garum, balanced out by the nutty, yeasty taste

gastronomy offering which is open to all guests

of a Claus Preisinger KalkundKiesel pinot blanc

and pays equal attention to the visual delight as

from Austria.

well as the quality.”

In general there is a pureness to the extensive

Locke has positioned itself as a lifestyle brand,

menu, which features small but hearty portions.

with its portfolio of aparthotels reflecting its

It’s wholesome – like a “morning muesli” as

‘made to be lived in’ slogan, and the ambition

Maetzing describes the cubed asparagus and

to ally the Mural brand to its latest design-

liquified blue cheese topped with a roasted

conscious but nevertheless neighbourhood

potato crunch. “Mix it all up!” he enthuses.

Munich property says much about a city where

Meticulously prepared, the ingredients are

fine-dining options can thrive in non A-list

beautifully but simply presented; at Mural

locations. The Mural Farmhouse takes its cue

Farmhouse, it’s all about the tastes, the

from this inclusivity, offering a local connection

consistencies and the textural contrasts.

and a relaxed informality that feels much more

How do Meyn and Hingerl see their concept playing out at WunderLocke? “We have had

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down to earth than the haute cuisine often found in the hushed, white-gloved arena.

IN A BITE Operator: Edyn F&B Team: Mural Interior Design: Holloway Li Head Chef: Rico Birndt F&B Manager: Jan Maetzing Head Sommelier: Wolfgang Hingerl, Maxime Joly muralfarmhouse.de

AF_AnuncioTexture_SupperMagazine_236x275mm_Nov22.pdf

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DINING

Ancestral Fruit In Portugal’s wild heartlands of Alentejo, a restored 19th century farm and boutique hotel is honouring its heritage by taking olive oil production to new heights.

Words: Shanna McGoldrick • Photography: © Sanda Vuckovic Pagaimo

A

lentejo is a wild place. This southern region of Portugal, which stretches from the Atlantic coast to the Spanish border, has an alluring remoteness about it that is enhanced by its hilly, untamed landscapes.

That it feels a world away from Lisbon – and

fiercely independent – should come as no surprise: with an agricultural history that dates back to the Neolithic age, this is a place that has held its own against the test of time.

The proof, should you need it, is in the olives. Or rather, the olive trees – which are ubiquitous in these parts; millions of them spread across the region with their delicate silvery leaves and chalk white, twisted trunks marking the entrance to villages, lining roads and decorating the fields with their shady groves. Alentejo, renowned for producing some of the world’s finest olive oil, is home to several trees that are estimated to be 2,000 years old or more.

There are more than 6,600 olive trees at São Lourenço do Barrocal, a 780-hectare estate that has been operating as a working farm since 1820 and additionally, since 2016, a plush 40-key 19th century hotel, winery and spa. The land has been in the same family for eight generations, having been purchased 200 years ago from the royal family and turned into a self-sufficient farming community that in its day was equipped with its own kiln, bakery, schoolroom, flour mill and vineyard. The property has experienced its fair share of instability – Portugal’s political turbulence in the 1970s saw it briefly renationalised by the state – but it has now been back in the hands of the owner, lead developer José António Uva and his family for decades, undergoing,

© Ash James

DINING

“Olive oil here is very important: it was used for rituals as a sacred oil, and for healing, cosmetics, providing lamplight and also for food – which is the main use today. This is the land of olive oil.”

LUIS LOBATO DE FARIA

in recent years, a lengthy and considered restoration

Naturally, hotel guests will benefit from the new

process that not only respects but continues the

addition, with plans for a variety of immersive olive-

narrative of its ancient ecological heritage.

themed experiences in the works. These will range

“We weren’t interested in doing this project

from the chance to join Barrocal’s groundworkers in

if it was just going to be a hotel,” explains Uva

harvesting the olives from the trees using a traditional,

of the renovation works that saw him work with

low-intervention method that involves shaking

archaeologists, landscapers and architects to subtly

the fruit from the branches with a rod, followed by

transform the low, white buildings of the ‘monte’

masterclasses in seasoning that will also expose guests

farming village into an understated yet luxurious

to the property’s homegrown herbs such as oregano,

property comprising a winery, a series of expansive

myrtle or orange blossom. Finally there will be trips

guestrooms and residences, a high-ceilinged bar

to the mill to observe the more mechanical stages of

and a pared-back restaurant, not to mention the

the process in which the fruits are crushed, ground to

outdoor pool, sumptuous spa and shop. Instead, the

a paste and separated via centrifuge. Al fresco tasting

undertaking could more accurately be described as a

sessions featuring the various oils produced will round

cultural heritage project; a labour of love that strives

out the experience.

to bring the principles of its original purpose into a modern hospitality setting.

Two varieties of olives have traditionally grown on the estate: the plump green Bical, and the smaller,

Today, Barrocal is almost as self-sufficient as it was

darker Galega. “In Portugal there are maybe 30

in its farming heyday: an extensive vegetable garden

varieties of olive; in this region we only use around

means that the estate once again grows much of its

five, and 80% of what’s used here for the oil is

own produce, while beehives provide the restaurants

Galega,” explains Luis Lobato de Faria, a historian

with honey and 15 hectares of vineyards produce up to

who conducts guided tours of the Barrocal estate for

80,000 litres of organic wine each year.

guests. The hotel uses both in its olive oil production,

Alongside the wines – whose local grape varieties

creating a 100% Bical DOP, a 100% Galega version

include Roupeiro, Arinto, Touriga Nacional and

and a blend of both. The mill uses a low impact cold-

Aragonez – olives have long been another of São

pressing process that preserves the olives’ specific

Lourenço do Barrocal’s main exports. The hotel

organoleptic properties and individual flavour profiles,

usually produces around 160,000 kilos of olives per

while the absence of filtration methods ensures

year, yielding approximately 1,000 bottles of organic

a strong presence of vitamin E and other natural

extra-virgin olive oil annually – but now, for the first

antioxidants. Anything under 27 degrees falls into the

time in decades, the process will take place completely

category of cold-pressing, Lobato de Faria explains,

onsite, with Barrocal’s agricultural team harvesting,

while the ‘extra-virgin’ label applies to oils with an

cold-pressing and bottling within the walls of the

acidity level of 0.8% or lower. “Acidity is going to

estate. The move is thanks to the launch of a brand

destroy the oil faster and it’s bad for your health,” he

new olive oil mill that began to produce its first batch

says. “The oil produced at São Lourenço do Barrocal

of bottles in the Autumn/Winter 2022 season.

usually has an acidity of 0.5% or less.”

079

DINING

São Lourenço do Barrocal’s sunkissed ancient olive groves can be explored on foot or by horseback

Lobato de Faria has been taking guests on

as ‘barrocais’ – many of them sacred – that lie

tours of the estate’s olive groves for some time,

dotted around the estate, often half-burrowed

teaching them about the centuries-old trees –

between a band of olive trees. Thought to date

many of them ancient millenary trees – onsite

back to the Neolithic era, they have been sites

and weaving tales about Alentejo’s agricultural

of worship since pre-Pagan times and represent

heritage, ancestral farming traditions and

a link to a past that incorporated the Iron and

socio-political history generously through

Bronze Age through to Roman and Moorish

the conversation. His olive grove tour begins

occupations of Portugal. Lobato de Faria is also a

in São Lourenço do Barrocal’s old mill before

wealth of knowledge when it comes to educating

moving through the grounds, examining some

guests about the various species of trees and

of its most enduring and beguiling trees and

the history of their importation, pointing out

touching upon the various methods that go

that domestic olive trees that have been grafted

into protecting, maintaining and harvesting

onto wild ones, with the newer plant effectively

the stock. The experience, which wraps up

growing inside the ultra-resistant skin of the

with a tasting session that features all three

original and often resulting in a single tree that

of the hotel’s blends, is immensely popular

bears two different types of fruit.

with guests. “People already have an idea of

Alentejo, which is home to the largest olive

Portuguese wine,” he explains of the growing

grove in the world, takes its olives very seriously

interest in the topic. “Now they are starting to

indeed, and the guide spins yarns about the

understand that the olive oil is also very good.”

fruit’s ancient uses over the centuries. “Olive

The tour offers a fascinating insight into the

oil here is very important; it was used for rituals

rituals that have shaped Alentejo, taking in

as a sacred oil, and for healing, cosmetics,

several of the imposing ancient rocks known

providing lamplight and also for food – which

© Ash James

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Photo: Franck Hamel

Create and live a unique experience.

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DINING

© Ash James

Olive oil features heavily in the hotel’s culinary offering, with al fresco tasting sessions a popular guest activity

082

is the main use today,” he explains. “This is the

gastronomic approach – the focus is on authentic

land of olive oil.”

local dishes made with the freshest seasonal

Naturally, the golden nectar takes a starring

produce. Highlights on the autumnal menu

role in the hotel’s guest offering, appearing on

include Barrocal veal tartare with horseradish

the spa menu where it is infused with organic

mayonnaise, a simple pumpkin soup featuring

herbs for added relaxation, and in the onsite

vegetables from the garden, and duck served

shop, where guests can stock up before the

with Alentejo pork sausages and creamy

journey home. It also features heavily in the

barley. But one of the most striking dishes is

culinary programme. It’s no coincidence that

served before the meal begins, when diners are

São Lourenço was the patron saint of cooking –

presented with a helping of artisanal Alentejo

the property is passionate about its reputation

bread, a bowl of lightly seasoned, glistening

for gastronomy, and olive oil is used liberally

olives, and a saucer of silky, golden-green oil for

throughout its breakfast, lunch and dinner

dipping. Additional highlights include a moist,

menus. “Olive oil is the basis of Portuguese

crumbly olive cake, a Portuguese speciality.

food, especially in the Alentejo,” explains Head

The decision to invest in a functioning olive

Chef Nuno Fernandes, who works alongside

mill at São Lourenço do Barrocal is proof of the

Executive Chef Celestino Grave on curating the

long-term vision at play here – after all, as Uva

acclaimed seasonal menus. “Every savoury dish

points out: “You nurture olive groves for your

here contains our olive oil – and even some of

kids.” This sense of continuity, of preserving

the desserts. It’s part of our heritage; both at

a sustainable link between the past and the

the hotel and within the region.”

future, runs like a thread through this hotel and

At the farm-to-table restaurant – a simple, rustic affair that belies the delicacy of its

its desire to honour its history while sharing the fruits of its heritage with its guests.

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SIGNATURE

Herbed Fruit Salad Rancho Pescadero BAJA CALIFORNIA

© Alfredo Gómez, Argo Studio

In Mexico’s Baja California, the newly-

The dish is relatively simple to make: once

refurbished hotel Rancho Pescadero is focusing

the ingredients have been picked from the

its epicurean efforts on showcasing the local

garden, they are mixed together and drizzled

terroir. Culinary Director Chef Sandro Falbo

with a dressing made from boiled hibiscus

celebrates the region’s cultural traditions using

flowers whisked in agave honey and seasoned

strictly native ingredients.

with salt and pepper. “The trick is to have all

No dish epitomises his approach more than

the ingredients fresh from the garden, picked

the Herbed Fruit Salad, composed entirely of

just at the right time – and to avoid using the

produce harvested directly from the property’s

fridge,” the chef explains.

traditional ‘huerta’ garden. Tangy strawberries,

As Baja California cycles through the seasons,

smooth agave nectar and a punchy Jamaica

Falbo plans to add pepita pumpkin seeds or

hibiscus flower combine with the smokiness

amaranth to the salad, and perhaps a sprinkling

of herbs such as tarragon, basil, dill and mint,

of local goat cheese. But it will always be a

with fresh, crispy and juicy results. “I consider

favourite on warmer days. “It’s the perfect,

strawberries and cherry heirloom tomatoes as

uncomplicated fresh dish for our summer

having the same role in this salad,” says Falbo.

here,” he concludes.

SIGNATURE

Red Veg Carpaccio La Limonaia Roncolo 1888 EMILIA-ROMAGNA

As longer nights draw in across Italy’s Emilia-

while a few drops of the property’s very own

Romagna region, diners at the newly-renovated

Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia

luxury bed-and-breakfast Roncolo 1888’s

DOP (Gold) provide a just-sweet-enough

gourmet restaurant La Limonaia can look

finishing touch.

forward to Chef Mario Comitale’s signature

Comitale, who loves the way the flavours of

Red Veg Carpaccio returning to the menu. The

the turnip interact with the other ingredients,

dish embodies the culinary star’s philosophy

chose the tuber in tribute to his previous culinary

of exploring modern Emilian cuisine via the

experience in Chianti, pairing it with Emilian

raw, seasonal produce offered by the province

ingredients to symbolise his new gastronomic

itself, respecting tradition while also catering

territory. He selected the carpaccio cut for the

to vegetarian and vegan diners.

way it releases the taste of the vegetable, as well

The protagonist here is the red turnip,

as for its visual qualities.

selected by Comitale for the way it showcases

“I love the earthy taste and the enveloping

the colours and flavours of the natural world.

colour that evokes the time of year when we

It is enhanced with traditional local products

use it,” he explains. “Especially in the autumn

such as toasted pine nuts, cream of Parmigiano

season, it really visually represents the place

Reggiano 60 months, saffron emulsion and dill,

where I work.”

© Nadir Bonazzi

Decency and Decadence Award-winning bartenders Leo Robitschek and Liana Oster discuss transplanting their innovative beverage philosophies from New York to London via NoMad’s newest watering hole.

Words: Heleri Rande • Photography: © Cristian Barnett

H

ailing from opposite sides of

dinners; my parents made us gather around the

the world, Leo Robitschek, Vice

dinner table every evening,” he says. “We would

President of F&B at Sydell Group,

also go out but not to your typical kid-friendly

and Liana Oster, Head of Bars

places, more so to grown-up restaurants. We

at NoMad London, have met in

were allowed to order whatever we wanted as

the middle in central London.

long as we finished the meal. So, I picked the

The duo, who come from the US and Australia

most obscure things.” As a child, the future

respectively, are responsible for conjuring up

grand master of cocktails dreamed of living

the beverage programme at NoMad’s flagship in

in New York; moving to the city offered him a

the city’s Covent Garden neighbourhood – most

blank canvas on which to paint an illustrious

recently at the property’s new bar. Common

career in the drinking and dining sector.

Decency, in the softly-lit basement of what

As the lives of bartenders tend to go,

used to be Bow Street Magistrates’ Court, has

Robitschek’s path featured many twists

a sense of decadence and nostalgia that is very

and turns – including studying for a post-

much in keeping with NoMad’s ethos of bespoke

baccalaureate pre-med programme – but

hospitality coupled with sensuous design and

eventually led him to the eminent Eleven

– above all – fun. Its entry exudes grandeur,

Madison Park, which at the time was under

something that hotel bars used to be known for,

the direction of restaurateur Danny Meyer. “He

making the venue a much-appreciated addition

was the opposite of what many other places

to the ever-evolving London bar scene.

were doing at the time in New York; he treated

Robitschek grew up in Miami, in a family

his people with kindness and what he calls

that embraced hospitality and culinary curiosity

enlightened hospitality,” explains Robitschek.

from an early age. “I always loved family

“However, there was no cocktail programme

SIPPING

SIPPING

in place; there was a cocktail menu by necessity from

Awards and the James Beard Award for Outstanding

1998, but this was 2005. So, I started playing around,

Bar Program, in addition to placing fourth on the

doing tastings. Everything I did was trial and error.”

World’s 50 Best Bars, and being named Best Bar in

His creativity was rewarded when Daniel Humm

North America twice – all between the years of 2013 to

and Will Guidara took the reins of the venue, with

2020. In 2021, the NoMad concept made its way across

an ambition to make Eleven Madison Park the best

the Atlantic to the UK, with Robitschek very much at

restaurant in the world. The duo wanted Robitschek

the helm of its F&B offering.

on the ride with them. “I had a chef and a general

As fate would have it, Oster’s journey also took her

manager who cared about cocktails,” he recalls. “This

to NoMad New York, during her very first month in the

was revolutionary, as the chefs in other places did not

city following a move from Australia. But having learnt

appreciate that at all. I had a mentor in the kitchen

her craft at Bar Americano in Melbourne, the hostess

world and access to an incredible pantry. Back then it

trial she was offered at the hotel wasn’t exactly what

was very different to the classic form of bartending.”

she had in mind, so instead she answered a call for

Fast forward to 2019, and Andrew Zobler of the

bartenders at the renowned watering hole Dante. “I

heavy-hitting Sydell Group had recruited Robitschek

came to New York wanting to be a bartender, so I took

to work on the opening of NoMad New York, a hotel

the opportunity at Dante which was fantastic,” she

where food and drink co-existed seamlessly. There, his

says. “I grew a lot personally and professionally in

work had an immediate and influential impact, with

that role.” Under her leadership as Head Bartender,

the venue and its team winning numerous industry

Dante was named World’s Best Bar by both Tales of

awards, including Tales of the Cocktail’s Spirited

the Cocktail’s Spirited Awards and the World’s 50 Best Bars list in the same year (2014).

But new horizons beckoned. “I always wanted to live in London, and hearing about the NoMad opening there, I spoke with Leo and his other team members and well, the rest is history,” she recalls. Though the pandemic threw the group multiple curveballs, eventually the doors opened, and just like that, a slice of New York was transported to the British capital.

“It was really important that we morphed the NoMad feel into its new surroundings; we are all about juxtapositions, be it lighting, music or the way we treat ingredients,” explains Oster.

The treating of ingredients is the lynchpin of the philosophy at Common Decency, which launched in September. Seasonality is practically a given these days in London’s gastronomic scene, but Robitschek

“In many places in West London you need to be on your best behviour; in the East you need to be casual, oftentimes standing.

At Common Decency you can do both.”

LEO ROBITSCHEK

090

NYC Showroom, 41 Madison Ave. | (800)-351-9842 | info@orrefors.us | www.orrefors.us

SIPPING

“We are all about juxtapositions, be it lighting, music or the way we treat ingredients.”

LIANA OSTER

and Oster have taken it a step further here. “On the menu there are eight ingredients that represent the time and the season,” explains Robitschek. “We make each in two different ways – one more classic but done in the NoMad way, and the other is juxtaposed with a more conceptual idea. All the work is done behind the scenes using kitchen-centric techniques. That is why the flavour is not what you think it will be.”

For example, the cocktails Green Muse and Cool as a Cuke both centre around the humble cucumber, but while the first includes Pernod Absinthe, lime, Lillet Blanc, pickled cucumber, dill and club soda, the second iteration features Olmeca Altos Blanco, Mexican Sour by Two Tribes, coconut and lacto-fermented cucumber: a delightful dichotomy.

What was the reasoning behind their unconventional approach? “After the pandemic we want to drink differently; we want to drink well but we also want to have fun,” elaborates Robitschek. “In many places in West London you need to be on your best behaviour; in the East you need to be casual, oftentimes standing.

At Common Decency you can do both, depending on your mood.”

The creativity of the concept is matched by Common Decency’s culinary team: Executive Chef Ashley Abodeely, who oversees the kitchen at NoMad London, works closely with Robitschek and Oster to complement – but not lead – the bar experience. On the snacks menu are hot dogs with celery and black truffles, and bite-sized potato rosti topped with crème fraiche and caviar.

At hotel bars globally, a signature sense of grandeur has been given a modern makeover, with venues increasingly feeling less pretentious and more welcoming and inclusive. Common Decency goes above and beyond in that sense, artfully fusing the sophistication of West London and the playful ease of East London in the middle of the bustle of Covent Garden. Liberal, unorthodox and wholly international, it marks the ideal spot for this cosmopolitan meeting of creative minds.

092

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COCKTAIL

Sherpa St James Bar Sofitel St James LONDON

Summiting Mount Everest is an achievement reserved for those tenacious few prepared to dice with death and battle frostbite, altitude sickness and hypoxia in their bid to scale the earth’s highest peak. Happily, for the rest of us, there’s Sherpa: a stirring concoction that cleverly distills the most thrilling aspects of the extreme Himalayan mountaineering experience into cocktail form.

Sherpa is one of 16 creative libations on St James Bar’s new Once In A Lifetime menu, which was inspired by bucket list activities. It features a heady mix of Corte Vetusto Mezcal Espadín, Hennessy VS Cognac and Cynar together with Leonor Palo Cortado, Nectar Pedro Ximenez Sherry, mountain bitters and palo santo. The team use an ultrasonic bath to make a palo santo tincture using vodka as a base spirit, adding drops to the drink to inject woodiness and depth. The ingredients are combined in a mixing tin before being poured into a rock glass containing a large ice cube, and finished with a spray of Muyu Vetiver Gris.

“Climbing Mount Everest is quite a tough adventure,” concedes Head Bartender Angelo Sparvoli. “So is this drink: it’s complex, smoky, bold and spirit-forward. It is to be enjoyed slowly.”

Please hike responsibly.

© Will Stanley

COCKTAIL

Invisible Rose Lola Rouge Naumi Wellington NEW ZEALAND

While the Northern Hemisphere braves out the last of its winter chill, New Zealand is enjoying balmy long evenings that practically beg to be enjoyed with a chilled drink. Luckily, tropical vibes are on the menu at the new boutique hotel Naumi Wellington, whose Lola Rouge bar and restaurant is already known for its curated list of summery signature cocktails; chief amongst them the Invisible Rose. Inspired by the city of Wellington’s famous botanical gardens, the drink features a sultry blend of rose-infused vodka and passion fruit together with pineapple juice, zingy lime juice and rose bitter, all laced with demerara syrup and passion fruit puree; the fruit also lends its flavour to the concoction’s crowning edible smoke bubble.

The ingredients are dry shaken before being combined with ice and poured into a simple clear coupe glass. “I recommend having more than three to four tasting notes in a single craft cocktail, as this helps to build different tastes on the palate,” says Head Bartender Oscar Ipac Jr. “This is an easy-todrink cocktail with a different taste profile, thanks to its unique ingredients, that builds up in the palate. You get sweet, sour and a bit of texture from the foam that the pineapple juice creates.” Sounds like the perfect summer romance.

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The palate is characterised by fresh grapefruit-led citrus at first, before a bolder kick of classic juniper forms at the crown. A long progression of warm spices and a hint of liquorice sweetness finish with a reminder of deeper citrus notes. The botanicals are carefully balanced to provide long, complex flavours that excite the palate through to the finish. www.beefeater.co.uk

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EVENTS

To The Table Asia 4-6 October 2022 BANGKOK Tropical Bangkok provided the adventurous backdrop for the long-awaited return of hospitality forum To The Table to Asia.

Words: Shanna McGoldrick • Photography: © Richard Pereira

H

aving waited patiently throughout the Covid-19

Spas) discussed emerging trends and best practices in terms

pandemic, hotel F&B professionals were eager for

of cutting down on waste, optimising menus and handling

the chance to reconnect with industry colleagues and

the rising price of both food and labour. “Concern about

get back to business in Asia – and happily, the opportunity

wellbeing, concern about health; these things have taken on

arrived in October, with the launch of the highly-anticipated

a new dimension,” said Ahmad, referring to the transition

To The Table Asia 2022 forum at Shangri-La Bangkok.

to the post-pandemic era.

With a delegate list that read like who’s who of hospitality,

Sustainability and the Restaurant of the Future was the

the event saw strong support from influential returning

topic of the second seminar, which saw Nigel Moore (Vice

buyers including Hilton Worldwide, Millennium Hotels &

President Food & Beverage, Luxury Brands, South East Asia,

Resorts and Shangri-La Group, while key decision makers

Accor), Jonathan Heath (Corporate Food & Beverage Director,

from prestigious hotel groups including Anantara, Six

Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas) and Alan Barr (Founder,

Senses, Radisson Hotel Group and The Standard attended

Greymatters) explore the role that design has to play in

for the first time. Returning suppliers included Villeroy &

improving the industry’s green credentials.

Boch and Steelite International, while Dibbern, Drinique, La

Consumer trends were on the agenda the following

Tavola and Modbar/La Marzocco were among those making

morning, with Rohit Sachdev (CEO, Soho Hospitality)

their debut.

unpacking the concept of Redefining Luxury Dining in

While the main draw for many attendees was the extensive

the Post-Covid World. He touched on the importance of

roster of one-to-one meetings between top suppliers and

authenticity in the current landscape, pointing out: “People

decision-makers operating in Asia’s hotel F&B sector, a trio

want something that is genuine and real; the pandemic has

of evening events allowed for more informal networking,

accelerated the experience trend.”

while a seminar programme chaired by F&B writer Devina

Looking ahead, the final seminar of Technology and the

Divecha offered the chance to weigh in on the issues currently

Future Guest Experience examined opportunities to use data

dominating Asia’s hospitality scene.

to boost guest engagement. Ira Vouk (Founder, Author and

After a successful welcome drinks function on the first

Principal, Hospitality 2.0 Consulting) and Konstantinos Desis

night, things got underway on the morning of 5 October

(Vice President, Customer Technology Services, SE Asia,

with a seminar entitled The Culinary Perspective. Raheel

Japan and South Korea, Accor) offered up their thoughts on

Ahmad (Culinary Director APEC, Marriott International),

how tech is shaping restaurant interactions.

Franco Brodini (Regional Executive Chef, Southeast Asia

Before long it was time to head to the airport, deals signed;

and Australasia, Shangri-La Group) and Kevin Fawkes

although for a cohort of delegates attending To The Table’s

(Culinary and F&B Director, Anantara Hotels, Resorts and

Europe forum, the reunion was almost imminent.

101

To The Table Europe 21-23 November 2022 MALTA

What better way to round out 2022 than by doing business in the balmy Mediterranean surrounds of Malta?

Words: Shanna McGoldrick Photography: © Richard Pereira

102

A

nd so to Malta, for To The Table’s final

Editor Heleri Rande addressed a range of topical

event of the year: a meeting of minds for

regional hospitality issues.

suppliers and decision-makers focused

Dubbed Elevating the Restaurant Experience,

on the European hospitality market. The

the opening seminar explored ways to develop

backdrop to was provided by Hilton Malta, a

‘wow factor’ culinary narratives. The speakers

Mediterranean getaway located in the charming

– Anthony Worrall (Senior Director F&B Europe

seaside enclave of St Julian’s.

– Development Openings and Operations,

As anticipated, the guest list comprised

Hilton Worldwide), Jordan Kiziuk (Head of

influential professionals from the continent’s

Experience, Edyn) and David Martin (Global

F&B sector, with continued support from

Head of Restaurants & Bars, Corinthia Hotels),

heavy-hitting buyers such as Accor, Belmond

opened up about current industry trends and

and Marriott International to name just a few.

innovations. While Kiziuk emphasised the

Several, such as Edyn, Hilton Worldwide and NH

significance of F&B concepts serving the wider

Hotel Group, were attending for the first time.

neighbourhood beyond the boundaries of the

On the supplier side, Pernod Ricard was among

hotel, Martin pointed out the rapidly increasing

the many high-profile returnees, while Mapal

need to both appeal and cater to an upcoming

Group and Mikks made their first appearance.

generation of guests that use social media for

Over the course of an energising three-day

inspiration, and as a booking tool. The dangers

programme of focused one-to-one meetings

of over-programming were also discussed, as

interspersed with industry seminars and

Kiziuk spoke about looking at a hotel’s assets

convivial networking dinners, the delegates

from a multi-dimensional perspective and

got down to business. Four seminars chaired

taking the time to consider alternative, non-

by hospitality strategist and Supper Consulting

F&B experience activations if appropriate,

EVENTS

saying: “If you can weave in some degree of

authentic might occasionally be detrimental to

The fourth and final seminar played to a full

gamification and playfulness into a concept,

a project, saying: “Hotel operators forget that

house, with Boris Simm (Group Vice President

it’s a winning formula.” Worrall pointed out

they live in their own ecosystem, so what is

Operations Ruby Group), Ben Bengougam (Senior

the importance for hotels to “hold their nerve”

important is to think ‘what’s happening in

Vice President Human Resources EMEA, Hilton

while waiting for F&B venues to establish

town, and how can I create something that’s

International) and Dusti Guzman (Executive

themselves, rather than jumping in too quickly

unique and competitive in the local market?’”

Vice President / Chief Human Resources Officer,

to tweak and potentially overcomplicate things.

Sustainable Strategies for a Changing

Sortis Holdings) convening to discuss Inspiring

As Martin concluded: “There’s a very thin line

Landscape was the topic of the third

Passion within Hospitality. From profit sharing

between trying to be overly-ambitious and

seminar. Philip Halanen (Head of Sourcing

programmes and longevity bonuses to free

overprogramming, but also not doing enough;

and Sustainability EMEA, Wyndham Hotels

tattoos, the trio explored the various initiatives

not having enough appeal or doing something

& Resorts) and Emily McLeish (Head of

their companies have implemented to attract,

that is exciting.”

Communications, Sustainable Hospitality

retain and inspire staff. Improving work-life

These observations fed neatly into the next

Alliance) tackled the subject with aplomb,

balance for female chefs was a topic Bengougam

seminar, Taking Restaurant Design to the Next

talking about the importance of transparent,

touched upon, saying: “We’re very seriously

Level, which saw Afroditi Krassa (Founder,

shareable resources and frameworks within the

motivated at all levels of the organisation to

Afroditi Studio) and Rutger Van Erp (Vice

industry that allow both hotel operators and

drive diversity.”

President of Design & Construction, Odyssey

suppliers alike to align with environmentally

One last afternoon of high-level meetings and

Hotel Group) share their views on the role of

forward-thinking strategies and measure their

a lively goodbye dinner later, and To The Table

design trends in meeting the needs of modern

progress along the way. Halanen underlined the

Europe was a wrap.

diners. Here, the question of authenticity at all

importance of data in driving sustainability,

costs arose, with the duo exploring the need for a

while McLeish highlighted the non-profit

The next To The Table will take place in Abu Dhabi

balanced approach in today’s globalised market.

alliance’s newly launched Pathway to Net

from 6-8 March 2023.

Krassa pointed out that trying too hard to appear

Positive Hospitality framework.

www.tothetablemea.com

103

Clockwise from top left: Punch Room at The Madrid Edition; Leon at The Dubai Edition; Dowling’s at The Carlyle, New York; The Aubrey at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park; Bushra at Grosvenor House; Man Wah at Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong

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EVENTS

AHEAD: Winners Announced From a speakeasy-inspired lounge in Dubai to an Upper East Side supper club, this year’s AHEAD winners represent the most outstanding hotel F&B spaces around the world.

Words: Eleanor Howard

Whether a buzzy bar or a refined restaurant,

NEW YORK REIGNS SUPREME IN AMERICAS

Middle Eastern eatery Bushra by Buddha-Bar

F&B spaces are widely regarded as the beating

In the Americas, the Big Apple’s F&B venues

at Grosvenor House, A Luxury Collection Hotel,

heart of any hotel. As such, AHEAD – the

struck a chord with the judges; particularly the

wowed in the Restaurant category. One judge

Awards for Hospitality Experience and Design –

recently renovated Dowling’s at The Carlyle –

recognised the “attention to detail and colour

recognises their importance, with categories in

which won best Restaurant – and newcomer

accents that break up the neutral tones”, while

each regional scheme dedicated to Bar, Club or

Nearly Ninth at Arlo Midtown, which was

another stated that everything from the styling

Lounge as well as Restaurant. Following awards

named best Bar, Club or Lounge. “A visual

and arrangement to the menu feels completely

ceremonies in Singapore, New York, Dubai and

feast peppered with rich detailing” in the

aligned for a cohesive concept.

London, the winners have now been announced.

words of the judges, Tonychi Studio’s scheme at Dowling’s was lauded for injecting new life into

SULTRY SCHEMES SUCCEED IN EUROPE

the beloved Upper East Side haunt, adopting a

Concluding the awards season with the flagship

Designed by Silverfox Studios, The Aubrey

sleek supper club aesthetic that marks “a step

event in London, AHEAD Europe saw luxury and

at Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong emerged

back into history seen through a fresh lens”.

lifestyle hotels win big. “This will be a space

victorious in the Bar, Club or Lounge category

Gerber Group and Meyer Davis’ collaboration at

that stays in my memory having enlivened

at AHEAD Asia. Offering views of Victoria

Arlo Midtown, meanwhile, produced a “layered

the senses” were the words of one judge when

Harbour, the all-day drinks and dining space

materiality” that resonated with the panel, who

praising Punch Room at The Madrid Edition,

was described by the judges as “an exceptional

described the result as “beautifully balanced,

a contemporary reimagining of the brand’s

entry that has real personality, sense of place

calming and inviting”.

signature bar. Described as “bold, brave and

MANDARIN ORIENTAL TRIUMPHS IN ASIA

and nuanced touches”. The panel also applauded

incredibly atmospheric” the panel attributed the

the Singapore-based firm for “delicately

MARRIOTT SWEEPS THE BOARD IN MEA

illustrating a strong East-meets-West narrative

LW Design fared well at AHEAD MEA, with the

Over in London meanwhile, Mandarin Oriental

that is well-aligned with the Mandarin Oriental

Dubai-based studio winning both F&B awards.

was successful in the Restaurant category with

brand”. Demonstrating Silverfox Studios’ hotel

The speakeasy-inspired Leon at The Dubai

The Aubrey’s Hyde Park outpost. Judges praised

F&B design expertise, the company went on

Edition claimed the Bar, Club or Lounge prize,

London-based interior design studio Brady

to scoop a second award for its work on the

with the panel praising the venue for its as

Williams for its “exquisite use of materials and

same hotel’s signature restaurant Man Wah,

“sophisticated restrained palette of materials

detailing”, declaring the Japanese izakaya “a

characterised by timber panels finished in a

that will age better with time, just as a speakeasy

lesson in seductive design”.

deep blue lacquer. Judges praised the heritage-

should”. Another judge commented that “the

meets-contemporary concept, stating: “This is

scale and intimacy adds to the guest experience

Entries for AHEAD 2023 open on 25 January for all

a thoughtful design that respects the history

and intrigue, and the tones and colours add

four regions. For further updates, follow on social

of the restaurant with a new modern take on

eclecticism”. Proving the success of LW Design’s

media at @AHEAD_awards or visit:

luxury Chinese dining.”

relationship with

www.aheadawards.com

Marriott International,

venue’s success to its ability to build anticipation.

105

SPECIFIER

PETITS FOURS

Steelite International Rene Ozorio Essence Essence is a stylish porcelain series designed by Rene Ozorio. With a wide selection of rimmed presentation and banquet plates, coupes, trays and bowls, this collection exudes both a modern and classic look. A return to basics with a white, pure aesthetic, its elegant profile is enhanced by a body and glaze infusion that leads to a durable product, ideal for high volume banqueting. Steelite’s philosophy of creating special and memorable dining experiences that expertly complement the creativity of the chefs is embodied in the series: Rene Ozorio masters the art of presentation, shape and design that breaks the norm of traditional tabletop settings. www.steelite.com

1.

2.

3.

108

4.

1. Amefa Soprano

2. Vista Alegre Hotelware Texture

3. Fine2Dine Dune

4. Villeroy & Boch Château Septfontaines

Amefa’s Soprano collection celebrates cutlery with a clean design that stands out for its modernity and slim lines. Made from high-quality stainless steel with a black PVD finish on the handles, the series brings a contemporary look to the table, combining elegance and style with a statement design that enhances the eating experience. Heritage brand Amefa has been setting tables all over the world ever since it was founded back in 1931, and the family-owned business’ origins are rooted in the hospitality industry.

The company offers a diverse range of flatware and kitchen products, spanning designs created to suit a variety of styles and occasions. www.amefa.com

As its name suggests, this series of Vista Alegre plates designed by the Dutch tableware specialist Mieke Cuppen puts an emphasis on the importance of texture. The striking, design-forward collection offers multiple opportunities to play around with plating, thanks to a surface that influences how and where food is placed. The transition from a soft glazed texture to one that is unglazed makes for an alluring effect, while the interactions and contrasts between other pieces and materials add to the impact. Portuguese heritage brand Vista Alegre operates in tableware, decorative porcelain pieces, hotelware and chinaware, among other areas. hotelware.vistaalegre.com

Dune combines intense warm sandcoloured notes with either a deep ocean blue or blush pink reactive glaze that is designed to softly immitate a gust of wind crossing over the dunes. Created with the most joyful of gatherings in mind, the collection features elegantly rounded borders that contrast stylishly with its robust and strong shapes. This high quality porcelain tableware range promises to provide an eye-catching dining experience suitable for a variety of hospitality environments. Fine2Dine stands for trend-based, high-quality tableware for creative professionals, providing solutions for hotels and restaurants all over the world. www.fine2dine.com

In 2023, Villeroy & Boch is celebrating its 275th anniversary. Since 1748, it has been synonymous with sophisticated aesthetics and innovative ideas and technologies for everything to do with ceramics. Its new signature collection Château Septfontaines – named after the Luxembourg residence built for the Boch brothers in the 18th century – unites everything that has defined the company: heritage and modernity, tradition and ingenuity. The series was inspired by the company archives: classic style elements have been adapted with great delicacy and love of detail and carried over to a modern, contemporary aesthetic in the Art Deco style. www.villeroyboch.com/hospitality

PETITS FOURS

1.

3.

2.

1. Serax Nido by Ann Van Hoey

2. Nude Glass Round Up

3. Craster Juice Dispenser

Ann Van Hoey has been designing bone china tableware for Serax for over a decade, and the design process for her Nido collection started with the mathematical approach that has come to define her style over the years. After using computer technology to generate the 3D models to make her moulds, she became so fascinated by the drawing programme’s construction lines that she decided to make use of them to develop various patterns. Using very fine porcelain fired at high temperatures allows for complex shapes and structures to be made, while its translucency renders the pattern highly effective. Pieces are finished either with a translucent glaze or a jade-green celadon.

The porcelain tableware is complemented by four simple glasses that share the same shapes as the cups, as well as wooden presentation trays in walnut, inspired

by Japan, featuring small feet that give the tray the impression of floating.

With Nido, Van Hoey has designed a playful, contemporary series in the tradition of high quality bone china tableware that combines different patterns that fit together to form a beautiful whole. The collection will be shown to the general public exclusively in Belgium for the first time at the reopening of La Réserve in Spring 2023, before being presented in Belgian stores. www.serax.com

Round Up is a decorative, vintage inspired four-piece stemware range.

The handmade lead-free glasses feature a rounded bowl to encourage smooth pouring and capture aromas, while the wide ribbed, optic surface accentuates the colour of the drinks within, lending each piece a festive quality. The elegant collection features four glass sizes: a broad red wine glass with a wide rim inspired by classic silhouettes, a more compact white wine version that is designed to optimise and preserve floral notes, a champagne coupe with a retrostyle twist, and a classic champagne flute made to emphasise various sparkling wine flavours. eu.nudeglass.com

The Craster Juice Dispenser is an elegant, spill-free solution designed to highlight tabletop service or buffet presentations.

Part of UK-based brand’s versatile Tilt Range, it features an innovative ice-free cooling system that keeps eight litres of liquid cool for up to four hours. The simplicity of the product lies in the discretionary use of Craster Tilt Frames, which are made from stainless, brasscoated or black powder-coated steel and offer added elevation, enabling easy access for users, while also providing an appealing drink display. Drip trays can be easily placed onto the Tilt frame for enhanced stability and reduced spills to create a seamless serving experience. www.craster.com

109

1.

2.

110

3.

1. Utopia Tableware Enigma

2. Raynaud Italian Renaissance

3. Goodfellow & Goodfellow Hering Berlin Pulse Plate

Enigma is a standout new collection from Utopia’s 2023 launch. Ideal for supper settings, the series features a distinct reactive glaze that lends a variation to the finished effect, providing each individual piece with a truly individual look. Thanks to a softly blended mix of deep greys and browns, the collection walks the line between being warm and cosy while remaining boldly stylish. Made from vitrified porcelain, it includes two deep irregular bowls, three plates and a side cup suitable for food or drink. All pieces are dishwasher safe. Whether Enigma tableware is displaying a chef’s creations or waiting to be loaded from serving dishes, it makes a statement. www.utopia-tableware.com

For more than a century, Raynaud has created porcelain with elegance and generosity as its governing principles.

Manufactured in the UK since 1877, its signature Lincrusta material has its origins in the era of Italian Renaissance design: known for its opulent embossing, it is rich in its relief and delicate arabesques, and has found its echo in fine Raynaud Limoges white porcelain. The Italian Renaissance collection – which plays on poetic and sensual design accents in an ode to femininity – is the result of meticulous handiwork carried out on plaster in Raynaud’s workshops, where the distinct vegetal motif is sculpted, engraved and tamed. www.raynaud.fr

At London-based Goodfellow & Goodfellow, the focus is on proposing increasing numbers of concepts based on luxurious white hues, leaning on the beauty and distinction such tableware offers. Enter the Hering Berlin Pulse Plate – an apt example of the ways in which great design and quality can be combined to dramatic effect. Developed to be incorporated or layered with the Hering Berlin Velvet or Cielo plates and bowls, the company can also create unique and inspiring concept solutions for any menu. Additionally, the range can be combined with other Hering Berlin options such as Obsidian and Silent Gold.

Founded by husband-and-wife team Paul and Valda Goodfellow, the creative company provides design-focused solutions for hotels, restaurants and contract caterers, with the London showroom displaying ranges from the world’s finest ceramics and glassware brands, including Hering Berlin and Narumi.

Goodfellow & Goodfellow often collaborates with Michelin-starred chefs, leading restaurateurs, hoteliers and designers to supply branded tableware, kitchen equipment and chef apparel to establishments internationally. It also develops bespoke tableware solutions as part of its Design & Fulfilment service offered to operators and F&B professionals. www.goodf.co.uk

PETITS FOURS

1.

2.

3.

1. Hepp Aves

2. Porland Re-Gen

3. Orrefors Nobel

With its dynamic lines, the design of Hepp’s cutlery collection Aves is based on the contours of a bird’s wing. This strong, streamlined appearance is applied consistently throughout the 19-piece series. The striking shapes include forks with an unusual tines to handle ratio, while the table fork and spoon stand out thanks to a material thickness of 9mm.

Aves is available in polished stainless steel and various additional finishings on request. Options span PVD-coated or glass bead blasted finishes, as well as stonewashed, brushed or a combination of both, making Aves a flexible solution for a variety of hospitality solutions. www.hepp.de

Turkish heritage brand Porland’s Re-Gen series is brought to life through the process of recycling porcelain shards.

Since 2005, the company has been offsetting its carbon footprint and its recycled production has seen great success. In 2022, its R&D strategy took another leap forward to complete the cycle of ‘no production waste’. Tons of broken pieces of kilned porcelain, misfits and non-standard choices are now being returned to the production cycle, to become the Porland Re-Gen line. Porland has been operating since 1976, and currently produces around 70 million units per year in its production facilities. www.porland.com

Gunnar Cyrén is widely known for being one of the great designers of Swedish glass history: in 1991, he created the Nobel collection, which is still used at the annual Nobel Banquet in Stockholm City Hall every year. The prestigious event sees award winners from different countries in the world convene to celebrate with more than 1,000 guests – including members of the Swedish royal family, politicians, scientists, and artists. The collection is mouth-blown in Sweden and handpainted with details in real 22-carat gold and includes a wine/beer glass, a champagne glass, a martini glass and a decanter. Today, the Nobel collection is a highly coveted collector’s item, both in Sweden and around the world.

Heritage brand Orrefors has been producing glassware since 1898, and the brand’s skilled glassworkers collaborate with Sweden’s most prestigious designers at its glassworks in Kosta. A smaller element of the company’s production is also made in Europe and Asia, with each site following the same designers and, in many cases, the techniques developed in Småland, Sweden. In 1914 Orrefors started manufacturing crystal products, and the glass the brand produces today is based on expertise generated over more than a century. www.orrefors.us

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3.

2.

112

1. MyGlassStudio Mid-Century Modern

2. Costa Nova Festa

3. Zieher Falcon

The Mid-Century Modern canape display is a collection of bowl risers, tiered canape trays, footed boards and tasting plates for buffets and receptions.

Made for professional use, the products are dishwasher safe, ultra-durable and hygienic. The glass surfaces are nonporous and metals are powder coated with an anti-slip rubber coating, while the colours are acid resistant and nontoxic. The collection comes in six colour themes: cream white and grey, beach glass, grey metallics, black and gold, white and gold and olive grey – with the option of bespoke design from 150 alternative hues. myglassstudio.com

Combining ecologically sustainable methodologies with the one-use forms of the past is Festa, the environmentally focused collection from leading Portuguese brand Costa Nova. Composed from Ecogres, a proprietary composition of clay and recycled materials, the essence of this series highlights the ingenuity behind its design, as well as its ability to be used in endless combinations that are ideal for a range of food presentation scenarios. Fusing the environment and reusable tableware, this striking collection aims to showcase the beauty of the earth. Costa Nova specialises in durable, timeless fine stoneware products. www.costanova.com

The Falcon etagere by Zieher was inspired by the elegance of the bird it is named after, giving wings to creativity at the buffet. A statement design piece that is bound to act as a talking point among guests, a single Falcon unit is capable of bearing up to three plates on its wings or, when used as a duo, holding full buffet platters. A combination of both can be installed for bespoke solutions that suit various situations. Anti-slip supports can be added on if necessary, keeping the positioning of the platters safe and stable and making the design suitable for use on all surfaces.

As a high-tea stand, the etagere carries plain white coupe plates or matte black plates with a slate-like structure, both of which fit exactly into the slots of the wings.

The mirror-polished, solid stainless 3mm steel punctuates the fluidity of the dynamic shape, resulting in a majestic creature sitting on a stylised branch, which also provides a firm stand. Incorporated handrails also help to facilitate the service.

Zieher is a name synonymous with innovative design, both in the tabletop and in the buffet section, and the brand counts five-star hotels and top class restaurants across more than 90 countries among its international client list, specialising in creative gastronomy trends and solutions. www.zieher.com

PETITS FOURS

4.

1.

2.

3.

1. Heart & Soul Perfect Match

2. Eternum Cutlery

3. Franke Coffee Systems Franke A1000

4. Bonna Ground

Heart & Soul collection, a new brand from the established BHS Tableware, is sure to inspire diners with its stylish and charming aesthetic. Offering on-trend chinaware for the food service industry with a unique look and feel, Heart & Soul focuses on vitrified china for vibrant table settings, with pieces catering to various food styles, from regional to fine dining.

Its Perfect Match collection utilises reactive glazes to produce bespoke, unusual effects and handcrafted one-of-akind items. The series spans 25 different dishes in a total of five combinable colours, meaning it can be configured and adapted to meet the requirements of a variety of hospitality situations. www.heartandsoul-tableware.com

Eternum is a Belgian cutlery brand headquartered in the city of Gembloux, Belgium. In 2024 the company celebrates its centennial anniversary, marking 100 years as an influential brand in the design sector. Its core business has always been the creation and sales of cutlery and table accessories, with the international hospitality industry a major focus area over the last several years. Today, Eternum exports its products to more than 70 countries globally, distinguishing itself through its innovative and striking patterns in the world of cutlery. It enjoys a reputation across the business for customer satisfaction, excellent service and honest pricing. www.eternum.com

The A1000 is a premium coffee solution designed to provide moments of luxury.

Combining Franke’s professional expertise and innovative spirit, the machine features a fully automatic CleanMaster system and an iQFlow technology that guarantees consistent in-cup quality using a range of predefined settings. FoamMaster creates smooth foam, while the Flavour Station allows users to select from a range of up to six on-trend syrup flavours to satisfy everchanging customer expectations. The A1000 is a universal solution that can be used in both in-served and self-service areas, and comes with the option to set up various payment methods. coffee.franke.com

With its new collection Ground, produced from recycled waste mud, Turkish porcelain behemoth Bonna (the horeca brand of Karl Porselen) presents its respect for the earth and its repetitive refrains that have surrounded humanity with compassion since the beginning of time. The aim of the simple, pared-down 10-piece series is to give back what has been taken from the soil. The collection consists of two different colours, the outer surface of which is a raw body, while the inner surface is grey and transparent. Even the boxes used in the collection’s packaging are made from recyclable materials, underlining Ground’s sustainable ethos. www.bonna.com.tr

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PETITS FOURS

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2.

114

3.

1. Costa Verde Terra

2. Cosy & Trendy Atlantis

3. Revol Bespoke Buffet

Costa Verde’s new porcelain collection Terra is one of its most meaningful yet. The series, the result of a creative collaboration with the US-based engineer and sculptural designer Pere Gifre, focuses on the elemental, symbolising the start of a new era for the Portuguese heritage brand. The line’s organic shapes and striking profiles combine to lend each piece an earth-carved appearance and a compelling, elemental aesthetic.

Described as ‘a collection aiming to awaken the senses’, the series offers users a tactile experience that aims to connect diners with nature, thanks to its various rough and satin textures and different gradients. pro.costa-verde.com

The Atlantis collection from Belgian brand Cosy & Trendy is a series of two halves: the Stripe motif and the Circle pattern. Both designs draw the eye to the centre of the board, using deep blue colourways for visual impact with the added interactive element of a subtle, just perceptible texture. The variations in the series’ patterns lend an artisanal feel to the pieces, while the understated sides and dark edges bring a touch of tranquillity to the dinnerware. The Atlantis series comprises all the classic pieces required of a complete dinnerware set, with a large plate, deep plate, dessert plate, cup and saucer and a handy bowl all available. www.cosy-trendy.eu

Far from being standardised, Revol offers a wealth of options for creating a buffet to suit the exact requirements of its diverse and international clients. This approach is encapsulated by the family-run luxury French heritage brand’s statement En Scène collection – which features everything from modern wired risers and natural wood essences to delicate ceramic finishes and patented translucent nacryl. A wide-ranging choice of multiple materials and the visual rhythms created by the architectural structure of the collection are examples of the ways in which the company aims to revolutionise buffet presentations in an elegant and stylish way.

Revol, a ninth-generation family business based in the South of France, is a leading global manufacturer of professional kitchenware, tabletop and buffetware solutions that has been in operation since 1768. In recent years, the company has made a name for itself for the pioneering inroads it has made into sustainable production processes, becoming a leading manufacturer of 100% recycled ceramic paste tableware – a product line it continues to develop and expand. With a focus on experimentation and innovation, coupled with the expertise it has amassed over more than 250 years in operation, the brand remains at the forefront of the contemporary tableware industry. www.revol1768.com

PETITS FOURS

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2.

3.

116

4.

1. Rona Linea Umana

2. Corby Hall Monaco Satin 18/10

3. Modbar Modbar AV

4. Chef & Sommelier Reveal’Up

Representing 125 years of glassmaking skill, leading Slovakian glass manufacturer Rona’s collaboration with the award-winning Italian sommelier Maurizio Dante Fillipi has resulted in a collection that ticks all the boxes when it comes to balancing functionality and sophisticated elegance. Fabricated using the brand’s pulled-stem technology, the ultra-light pieces feature a distinctive flared edge and smooth interior, which has been designed specifically to encourage the release of the drink’s aromas. The Linea range encompasses four wine glasses and two water glasses, each featuring the same soft and generous lines. www.rona.glass

Corby Hall, a family-owned business based in Randolph, New Jersey in the US, has supplied the international hospitality industry with high quality flatware, holloware and bright white porcelain dinnerware for more than four decades.

Not only do its designs range from traditional to contemporary, but pieces are priced extremely competitively. Corby Hall has the ability to supply all food and beverage outlets associated with a fullservice foodservice operation, and the company’s global distribution network, coupled with its production facilities in Europe and Asia, facilitates a seamless service for both opening orders as well as for re-supply. corbyhall.com

Modbar, the original under-counter espresso machine, elevates the coffee service and preparation experience via its fine lines, customisable finishes and sleek interfaces. Its inimitable design means that solutions can be adapted to a variety of situations, while under-counter modules allow for easily programmable recipes, unmatchable technology, and easy access for technicians to service.

The striking Espresso AV system is renowned for the quality of the espresso it produces, while the Modbar Espresso AV comes equipped with an adaptable drip tray, a multi-position programmable lever, auto-volumetrics and optional scales for extreme precision. www.modbar.com

Reveal’Up is one of the eminent French brand Chef & Sommelier’s flagship collections for hospitality professionals, imposing its assertive style with elegance.

Each item in the series is made with a high-performance, lead-free crystal glass material, Krysta, which is known for its lasting brilliance, shock resistance and transparency. Chef & Sommelier is the Glassware International Sommelier Association Partner, and the Reveal’Up stem glass has been selected for sommelier competitions worldwide several times, repeatedly winning over jurors and candidates for its three essential qualities: resistance, versatility and elegance. www.chefsommelier.com

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PETITS FOURS

1.

2.

118

3.

1. Huls Gallery Singapore Ban

2. Narumi Ramage

3. John Jenkins Glassware Professionals

The Ban tableware collection began life as a project to discover new products that represent Tokoname, a city with the longest history among Japan’s six ancient kilns. Artisans use a regionally sourced fine clay that is unique to the city, creating well-proportioned forms enhanced by a variety of colours achieved using a local glaze known as ‘chara’, which lends plates and bowls a tinge of gloss with a matte finish.

Smooth to the touch, it is hardwearing and durable, remaining a practical choice for all environments. This distinct and elegant collection has captured the attention of chefs and restaurants, both in Japan and overseas. huls.com.sg

The concept of Ramage was inspired by a Narumi designer’s experience of Chinese and other East Asian gardens, as well as dreams of imaginary gardens in fictional nations. It features whimsical flowers designed in the image of chrysanthemums and peonies, which are native to China and popular in neighbouring Asian countries as well as Europe. Birds, said to bring happiness, and butterflies, representing new encounters, are depicted against a refreshing blue background, resulting in a poetic, artistic and optimistic collection that has been designed to suit various cuisines nurtured by the richness of Asian food culture. www.narumi.co.jp

John Jenkins is one of the UK’s leading designers and suppliers of crystal and glass for the high-end hospitality industry. Founded back in 1901, the brand’s principal aim is to design and supply stylish glassware that remains practical in service and complements both wine and table.

The company keeps in stock a diverse and expansive range of both handmade and machine-made glassware that runs the gamut from wine glasses and cocktail glasses to classic tumblers, all of which are available for immediate delivery. Its collections range from Gala to its finest wine glass series Starr, a fully handmade glass intended for the serious wine enthusiast. Its in-house design department also creates exclusive patterns of handmade glassware to suit the specific requirements of many of the company’s global hospitality client list, which includes luxury hotels, fine-dining restaurants and world-class bars.

The brand also has showrooms in New York and the US market is served by its distribution centre in New Jersey. Each pattern within its glassware portfolio benefits from the latest advances in glass making technology, which it implements diligently to enhance the clarity, durability and scratch-resistance of its glass. www.johnjenkins.co.uk

The future will be what we build together.

#alltogether IN23_236x275mm+3mm_Magazine_Technical_Data.indd 1

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ADVERTISING INDEX ISSUE 30

Amefa

048

MyGlassStudio

Arc

043

Narumi

BHS

025

Nude

Bonna

002

Orrefors

012-013 106 117 091

Corby Hall

123

Costa Nova

005

Porland

Costa Verde

033

Porser

047

Cosy & Trendy

061

Revol

081

Craster

115

Rona

067

Denby

020

Scottish Quality Salmon

093

Ercuis-Raynaud

059

Serax

039

Eternum

023

Steelite

Fine Dining & Living

097

Stellar USP

016

014-015

To The Table Asia

119

Goodfellows

019

To The Table MEA

087

HULS

073

Utopia

057

Internorga

120

Villeroy & Boch

124

John Jenkins

083

Vista Alegre

075

La Marzocco Modbar

095

WMF

053

Monoware

085

Zieher

045

Franke

Perrier-Jouët

006-007 010-011

008-009

121

WASHING-UP

Hungry for Adventure

Ramada’s new Chief Eats Officer might just have the best role in the business.

122

Ambitious foodies with a taste for adventure were

their adventures in real-time with unique photo,

left salivating at the recent news that Ramada by

video and written content designed to inspire

Wyndham was seeking a new CEO – that’s Chief

other travellers. The role also comes with some

Eats Officer.

attractive perks: a US$10,000 reward, a $150

The hotel brand, which counts properties in

daily travel stipend, paid accommodations and

more than 63 countries, launched a global search

air travel and an upgrade to Wyndham Rewards

for its new recruit back in October, with hundreds

Diamond membership are all part of the package.

of applicants submitting videos demonstrating

“Food is the key that opens the door to new

their appetite for the job. The company appointed

cultures, which is what Ramada by Wyndham is all

the lucky individual to the position at the end

about, inspiring travellers while connecting them

of 2022.

to new global experiences,” explains Stephanie

The new CEO’s arduous responsibilities hinge

Kendrick, Brand Leader and Vice President of

on travelling the world to uncover cultural

Operations at Ramada by Wyndham. “Our CEO

and culinary delights on behalf of the brand,

will have the chance to fully immerse themselves

documenting a curated list of must-eats on

in the best Ramada and its many destinations

Ramada’s website and social media channels.

have to offer, all while bringing along a global

Over the course of three weeks this summer, they

audience to share in every moment of their life-

will visit up to eight different countries, recording

enriching adventure.”

Creating Hospitality Château Septfontaines – the elegant homage for extraordinary dining moments

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07.12.22 16:42