An Architectural Vintage Reborn A 300-year-old palacete in Lisbon proves to be the perfect setting for an upscale wine hotel, with grape-themed culinary and wellbeing experiences to match. Words: Renee Perenchio
n oenophile’s delight opened its doors this March at
A
The new owners chose not to evict the Instituto when
the intersection of Lisbon’s vibrant Chiado, Barrio
laying out the plans to transform the building into a 61-
Alto and Príncipe Real neighbourhoods. Hotel Palácio
key hotel, instead creating a new Instituto do Vinho do
Ludovice and Federico Restaurant & Bar, its centrepiece to
Porto storefront and tasting room just off the lobby. This
a variety of wine-inspired experiences, have brought new
partnership purposefully draws attention to the building’s
life to a 300-year-old palacete originally designed and
former role in housing the internationally-recognised public
inhabited by João Frederico Ludovice, architect to Portugal’s
body that has regulated the quality and distribution of one
King João V in the 18th century. This historic townhouse –
of Portugal’s most important biproducts since 1933. Guests
which was also home to offices inhabited by the Instituto
today can partake in sommelier-led wine tastings at the
do Vinho do Porto, the country’s government-run authority
hotel bar featuring a curated list of three, five, or seven
on the production of Port and Douro wines since 1945 –
Portuguese wines, all of which can be purchased in the
was carefully reinvented by renowned Portuguese architect
Instituto’s adjacent shop. With more than 300 grape varietals,
Miguel Câncio Martins, whose previous projects include the
Portugal’s oenological diversity is proudly championed by
Opium in London, Buddha Bar in Paris and Portugal’s Quinta
Federico, which stocks rare varieties such as Tinta Negra
da Comporta wellness resort. The result is an opulent yet
from Madeira and Alicante Bouschet from the Algarve.
approachable celebration of wine as a pillar of Portuguese culture and a tribute to its former, and current, residents.
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The importance of the beverage flows through to both the hotel’s own Caudalie Vinothérapie Boutique Spa and the all-
Given the rich history of the setting, Câncio Martins was
day restaurant and bar, Federico. “Wine is an intrinsic part of
adamant about preserving much of what Ludovice himself
the menu,” states Head Chef Ricardo Simões. “We’ve created
once hand-picked for his private residence when he arrived
many wine-inspired dishes, which are colourful takes on
to Lisbon in the early 1700s as the King’s commissioned
traditional Portuguese cuisine punctuated with French
architect. More than 300 original 18th-century blue and white
classics. For pairings that boost every flavour, our sommelier
ceramic tiles and fresco paintings were artfully restored, as
is available to educate and guide guests with recommended
well as a majestic staircase, bowed and sloped from centuries
wines from our expansive collection.”
of use. Vaulted ceilings and the original Hebraic inscriptions
Stand-out dishes include Chef Simões’ version of cod
were retained in Ludovice’s personal chapel, but material
with coriander and chickpeas, and chanfana, a Coimbran
artefacts were not the only things to be salvaged; the most
interpretation of a traditional Portuguese goat stew
significant element that carries through from the building’s
accompanied by truffled mashed potatoes and turnip
past is the hotel’s partnership and cohabitation with the
greens. The French influence is unmistakable in the soufflé
Instituto do Vinho do Porto.
with chèvre cheese and pumpkin, and the mouthwatering