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OCTOBER 1996 volume ill number 8

From the Editor's Desk

t has been said that success has many fathers, but failure is an orphan. Let's face it. Who among us wants to admit, or talk about their failures? True, there are programs such as Alcoholics Anonymous and its' many like minded offshoots that are based upon our inability to control the over use of this or that. In my mind, these are necessary and important services aimed at helping those people who can't or won't help themselves with some dangerous behavior or habit they've acquired. There is no doubt in my mind that at one point or another, some of us could probably use a visit to "Fishaholics Anonymous", if such a service existed. However, there is no such creature, as yet anyway, so we will all have to do our best to control our impulses. Seriously, though. It is very hard to discuss failure. How many articles have you read recently that dealt with failure? To be more specific, how many articles in the national fish magazines have titles such as "How I Killed All My Rare Fish", or, "Why I Can't Breed Guppies"? Recently, however, I read an article that basically discussed the author's failure to breed a cichlid he had been keeping. This was an unusual outcome, since this particular author writes almost every month in this magazine about keeping and breeding cichlids. At first, I was sort of disappointed that the article ended as it did without the author having achieved breeding success, but, after reading the entire article again, I now have a much different perspective on the article, and on why it is as important to report failures as well as successes. This article, in particular, dealt with the author's attempt to spawn a well-known and relatively easy fish, the Firemouth (Hericthys "Cichlasoma" meeki). Despite the author's best efforts, and several attempts, he was not able to spawn the original pair he had purchased. The subsequent addition of another mature female unfortunately resulted in the death of the original


two fish. In a attempt to quickly breed the fish, the author had ignored the usual practice of purchasing several young fish and letting the process of natural pair selection occur. This was clearly a case of "haste makes waste". There is however, much to be learned from the author's experience, and this article. For one thing, anyone considering keeping and breeding the Firemouth, after reading this article, will certainly want to purchase young fish, rather than selecting a mature "breeding pair", as the author did, and risk suffering his same fate. It is also not entirely fair to say that the author was unable to spawn the fish. On one occasion, the pair did produce eggs, which all seemed to be infertile and soon fungused, and eventually disappeared. Despite the fact that the eggs did not hatch, readers can still learn about the proper conditions necessary to successfully spawn the fish from the article. On an individual level, one can learn much about the Firemouth from this article. However, considering the messages this article presents there is much more to this article than simply how an aquarist failed to breed a particular fish. First of all, the author has publicly admitted to being somewhat less than successful in keeping these fish. This is not a crime, and my respect for the author has not diminished one bit. Rather, I regard this as a message for all of us; we all fail with fish, and this should be viewed as a learning experience. Secondly, I came away from reading this article with the re-enforced belief that following the time tested aquaristic principles is still the way to go. In this case, purchasing several young fish and allowing them to select their own partners. It is my belief that we learn from our failures. The key word in the previous sentence is learn. And we can learn from others' mistakes as well. In admitting to failures and mistakes we go a long way towards progress, whether in keeping fish, or in any aspect of life itself. Warren Feuer



ne day in January, while glancing at a ten gallon tank in my fish room, I noticed that my Corydoras similis were spawning. The tank houses three Corydoras similis, (two males and one female) a few small plecos and some Cardinal tetras. Corydoras similis is found in Brazil and attains a length of 2 inches. The water temperature was 76 degrees and the pH was 6.5. The water out of my tap is usually 7.0 and very soft. Since my water is so soft, in some tanks I use buffering agents to hold the pH. All three fish were participating in the spawning process. When I approached the tank, the two males were displaying in front of the female and many eggs had already been deposited on both the Anubias nana plants and the glass. I observed the fish in the T position where the male holds the female's barbels between his pectoral fin and the eggs and sperm are released at the same time. The eggs are held between the female's pelvic fins, which are clasped together forming a pouch. It is believed that fertilization occurs hi the female's pelvic pouch. The Corydoras similis female held four to five eggs in her pouch. This number varies from species to species, with the female holding as many as 10 or more eggs at one time. The spawning process lasted for a number of hours; and at this point the Corydoras were visibly exhausted. I decided to remove the eggs into a one gallon container, utilizing the water from the breeding tank. Corydoras eggs are very sticky, quite large, and firm to the touch, making them very easy to move. Fertile eggs remain fairly clear with the embryo becoming visible as hatching approaches. If the eggs turn opaque in color it usually means they were not fertilized. I counted approximately eighty eggs which hatched in five days. Only a few of the eggs had fungused and were quickly removed from the container. After the yolk sacs had dissolved, the fry were fed a prepared food for the first few days and then baby brine shrimp were introduced. Everything was going well for about ten days until I came home from work and found that all of the fry had developed a fungus and died. Three weeks later the fish spawned again. This time I contacted a fellow catfish breeder who suggested I place the eggs in a ten gallon tank half full of water and dissolve one


Tetracycline capsule to prevent the eggs from fungusing. The first time the Corys spawned I used a few drops of Methylene Blue. I am not one for using medications, so after depositing the eggs in the ten gallon tank, I deliberated for about a day until deciding to use the Tetracycline. The fish were doing very well for about two weeks, when in an hour's time I observed seventy fry fungus and die. Needless to say, by this time I was devastated. A few weeks later, while doing a water change in the tank housing the Corydoras similis adults, I noticed two small Corydoras similis which must have hatched out and survived by hiding in the gravel. The small Corydoras similis looked like miniature versions of the adults, possessing the same violet blotch by the caudal peduncle. Before this fish was described it was known as Corydoras "violet". When the Corydoras similis spawned a third tune, I left the eggs in the tank with the parents. I kept checking the tank for a few weeks but all the eggs must have been eaten. The two Corydoras similis are now almost adult size. As of this writing, the Corydoras similis have not spawned again; if they do, I will put the Tetracycline hi the water before adding the eggs and hope for better luck. Our hobby can be frustrating at times, but sometimes you're fortunate enough to have an accidental success. One night during the Passover holiday in April, I observed another species of Corydoras hi my fish room spawning. Corydoras axelrodi, although fairly common hi the hobby, is not often spawned. Corydoras axelrodi are found in the Rio Meta, Columbia, and grow to a length of 2 inches. As with all Corys they will eat all standard aquarium fare; however, live worms are always appreciated. Their body, tan in color, has a distinctive dark band that runs across the center of the body to the base of the lower caudal fin. Like the C. similis, the Corydoras axelrodi were housed in a ten gallon tank with some Corydoras caudimaculatus and a Leiocassis poecilopterns (Harlequin Lancer) from Asia. The temperature in the tank was 74 degrees and the pH was 6.5. The ratio of males to females was the same as the C. similis, 2 to 1. During the spawning process only about 15 eggs were deposited on both on the plants and the glass. I quickly

It was the author's experience that C. axelrodi, pictured above, produce small but hardy spawns. Photo by the author removed 12 eggs at about midnight for fear that the Harlequin Lancer would have them for breakfast. Using the same water from the tank, I put the eggs in a small container and floated it in the spawning tank so the temperature would remain steady. I also placed a small air stone in the container and added a drop of Methylene Blue to the water. It took almost two days longer for the C. axelrodi eggs to hatch than the C. similis, and until they did I almost gave up hope. On the sixth day, ten of the twelve eggs had hatched. After their yolk sacs dissolved I started to feed them Liquifry in small amounts and then baby brine shrimp after about a week. Soon the fry were eating Tabimin and all was well. After one month the fry were about 3/8" and took on some of the adult coloration. From the very beginning the Corydoras axelrodi fry appeared to be much more robust than the Corydoras similis. At this point I was going on vacation so I gave the fry to Joe Ferdenzi. It is amazing that with such a small spawn all the fish that hatched have survived. After three spawnings I ended up with only two Corydoras similis now reaching adult size. Probably the only reason I have any is because a few eggs were accidentally left in the breeding tank. In contrast, the Corydoras axelrodi laid only a few eggs but almost all hatched and survived. The number of eggs laid by the different Corydoras species varies from a

few to many hundred. I do not know why the Corydoras similis fry are so susceptible to fungus and why the Corydoras axelrodi, under the same conditions, flourished. I will have to explore different methods of rearing the fry in the future if other spawnings do occur. I did not do anything intentionally to stimulate the Corydoras to spawn, however, water changes 4 to 5 degrees cooler, and sometimes changes in barometric pressure, do bring on spawning behavior. Although this article documents the spawning of two species of Corydoras, its dual purpose is to show that things do not always go as planned in this hobby and perseverance is the key. It was very frustrating to see spawn after spawn of Corydoras similis die before my eyes. Seeing the two Corydoras similis that ironically survived gives you the needed boost of adrenalin to continue. Most articles are written about successes in breeding etc., this article shows that some tunes success happens hi a round about way. Source: 1. Colored Atlas Of Miniature Catfish. Dr. Warren E. Burgess. TFH Pub. 2. Aqualog - All Corydoras. Frank Schafer, Wolfgang Glaser. ACS Glaser Pub., 1995

the Marine Aquarium VINCENT SILEO or the average customer walking into an determine just who has been eating the smaller fish in the aquarium! Another good time to use aquarium or pet shop for the first time, the choices can be overwhelming: subdued lighting is when acclimating new fish. With all the stresses of netting and shipping, the incandescent, fluorescent, specialty bulbs, added stress of bright lights just might put them specialty ballasts, metal halide, and actinic to over the edge. name a few. Hobbies are supposed to be fun. If Color is very important when lighting hobbyists think they must master a whole new for aesthetic reasons. You want the fish to look language to participate, they might give up before like they do in the store or in the book or they start. magazine that first caught your attention. Most Regardless of what type of animal, fish aquarium lighting fixtures come equipped with or plant you intend to keep, there are only two bulbs that bring out the colors in the fish and are things you will require lighting for. First, of very good for this purpose. The wrong lighting course, is to illuminate the aquarium so you can may make the fish look washed out or accentuate enjoy watching it. The second is to provide only certain colors. The color of light is energy for photosynthesis and respiration of measured in two ways. The measurement most plants and algae. As you know, the reason why commonly used by lighting is so important considering li^litipg ftir aquarium bulb for marine tanks is to provide energy in a purposeofviewi n g t h e a q u arium.the m a n u f a c t u r e r s i s usable form for the hobbyist m us t cons i d e r two t h ings: D e g r e e s K e l v i n . Midday, summer symbiotic algae present Btightness and Color, sunshine has a Kelvin in invertebrates. Of rating of 5500 degrees. Bulbs that come close to course, lighting is just as important for more this rating are considered full spectrum, emitting complex marine plants as well. I don't know of a spectrum similar to, if not equal to, the sun. any other purpose, do you? The other measurement is the Color Rendering Index (CRI). This Index measures the color Measuring Light appearance of items lit by a light source, not the color of the source itself. It is stated in When considering lighting for the percentages as compared to that of sunshine, purpose of viewing the aquarium, you must which is rated at 100%. Sunshine renders the consider two things: Brightness and Color. The true colors of objects it shines upon. Again, rule of thumb for lighting has been 2 - 4 watts bulbs which are have a CRI rating close to 100% per gallon and you will find this satisfactory to are considered full spectrum. However, full sufficiently illuminate the aquarium. The tank spectrum is not the beginning and the end. Full should be evenly lit and as bright as you want it spectrum bulbs can make the objects they are to be. Depending upon the types of fish, plants illuminating look less sharp or brilliant than other and animals you intend to keep, you might not bulbs. want it daylight bright, at least not all the time. The brightness of a source of light is Many fish feel exposed under intense lighting measured in lumens and some manufacturers and others will only expose themselves after the may provide this information for their product. lights have been turned off (or at least after they The drawback to this method is that it measures believe the lights have been turned off). You the brightness at the source and not where it is may be of that group of people who believe that received. Although lumens are not an accurate colored lights and colored filters belong with the measure of the light intensity that the day glow gravel in the novelty section. But they invertebrates are receiving, it is a good way to do have another use — to illuminate the tank compare light sources. A more accurate unit of enough so that you can easily see what is going measure are foot-candles and lux. Both of these on and yet make the inhabitants comfortable are measured where the light is received. One enough to go about their nocturnal activities. foot-candle is equal to the number of lumens This can be very important when trying to


received in one square foot from the sun. One lux is equal to the number of lumens received in one square meter from the sun. The hard, stony corals that grow on the top of the reef require more light intensity and spectrum than do the soft corals which usually grow along the sides of the reef. Blue lightwaves are the last lightwaves to be absorbed by water and are very important when attempting to maintain deepwater invertebrates.

Lighting For Marine Plants & Symbiotic Algae

The light intensity at the water's surface at noon in the tropics is approximately 100,000 lux. It is not necessary to reproduce that intensity in the aquarium to have invertebrates live and thrive. This is the height of the sun's intensity and it doesn't last very long. A good target to shoot for is a system which can produce 50,000 lux for 10-12 hours a day. It is difficult for manufacturers to determine the number of foot-candles or lux produced because it is measured where the light is received and will vary depending upon the depth of the tank and anything blocking the light (i.e., glass or acrylic canopy). There are methods to determine the foot-candles or lux for individual aquariums, but it is a little complex and unnecessary for the average hobbyist to determine to be successful.

Lighting to illuminate the tank for us to enjoy is easy to judge. Lighting to meet the basic requirements of plants, macro algae and symbiotic algae living inside of invertebrates Fixtures and Bulbs requires more accuracy. Lighting for freshwater plants is less The variety of fixtures intense than lighting for marine algae and Lighting to illuminate the tank for us and bulbs available to invertebrates. Most to e nioy is easy to ii|i|ge^ lighting :& • the hobbyist is more tropical plants grow in meet the bas ic requi rem ents of than adequate and can rivers and streams that pla nts, macro a tgae and sym biotic be overwhelming. Here receive some shade afgae living inside fqf invertsbrates are some suggestions, based on the types of from trees. The light requires more accuracy. organisms which the that reaches them is hobbyist is attempting to keep. diffused. There are three things to consider about lighting for both plants and marine Freshwater or Marine Fish Only organisms: Spectrum, Intensity and Duration. (no inverts or plants) Plants and marine organisms do best under full spectrum. The typical bulb that comes in most This type of set up only requires lighting aquarium hoods gives off a large amount of blue to make the fish comfortable and the aquarium and red lightwaves. These are the waves used aesthetically pleasing. Incandescent can be used. most in photosynthesis and which make the The initial cost and cost of replacement bulbs are colors of the fish stand out; but plants and marine low, but the excessive heat and high operating organisms need the full spectrum to thrive. costs makes using them prohibitive. Incandescent The intensity should be increased to 4-5 bulbs only convert 7% of energy consumed into watts per gallon to insure that adequate light is light. Fluorescent bulbs are a better choice. reaching all of the organisms. Don't over do it. Initial cost and replacement bulbs are slightly Too much light can be more detrimental than too higher, but the hobbyist will save on operating little. Chloroplasts, plant organelles within green costs and longer periods between replacements. cells where photosynthesis occurs, can become Fluorescent bulbs convert approximately 20% of damaged by too much light intensity and stop the energy consumed into light. No specialty bulbs process of photosynthesis. This is commonly here, just whatever is pleasing to the hobbyist. It called bleaching and is evident when the top is still advisable to use 2 - 4 watts per gallon of portion of the plant or organism starts to die off water to adequately illuminate the aquarium, but while the lower parts, which have been in the it is permissible to use less, if so desired. shadows, are still thriving. Lights should be left on continually for 10-15 hours to mimic the light Marine Aquariums with Invertebrates and dark periods of the tropics and to allow for the light process of photosynthesis and dark This set up is going to require full processes of respiration. spectrum lighting and an increased intensity of 3 - 5 watts per gallon. As with a fish-only


Of Satan and Adonis ecently, I was in one of my many favorite pet stores and overheard a woman asking one of the employees about a sleek black pleco with long caudal extensions that was in one of the tanks. The woman was obviously enchanted by the fish, but when she found out it was called a 'Satan Pleco', she turned away, shook her head and retorted, "Honey, there ain't no way a fish named Satan will enter my house...!!!". Now, I seriously doubt the Prince of Darkness looks like a pleco, nor does owning one denote allegiance to him. Therefore, to dispel the rumors of the hobby harboring evil demon-possessed fish, and in keeping with the season, I present the Halloween Common Name Catfish lineup: The Satan Pleco (Acanthicus histrix) and the Adonis Pleco (Acanthicus adonis) are related species both from Brazil and Peru. These plecos look quite sinister with their sleek body profile, white tipped body spines, long pectoral and pelvic fins and extremely long caudal fin extensions (think of a swimming stealth bomber). Looks can be deceiving though, as they are quite peaceful. Furthermore, Satans and Adonis are quite active both day and night, bouncing around the aquarium in search of food. This is somewhat variable however, depending on the individual fish, the aquarium size, aquascape and tankmates (mine is an absolute extrovert!!!). These plecos are omnivorous, consuming vegetable matter, worms, tablets, etc. with gusto. I have also noticed these fish to be big driftwood eaters, so have plenty available. Satans and Adonis get quite large, attaining about 27 inches in length according to the literature (I think this includes the caudal extensions, as I have never heard of or seen one larger than


about 14" (SL)). Water conditions fall in the range of most Amazonian natives: pH=6.5-7.2, Temp.=76-72 deg F, low to medium hardness. These fish tend to arrive in aquarium stores in 'questionable' shape. Most, if not all the caudal extensions have broken off (these grow back in time) and the body appears blotchy and faded. However, if you first isolate a specimen that is reasonably healthy, feed him plenty of good food and keep the water quality high, you will see just how magnificent Acanthicus species can be (see Zebras, Mangos and Cold Nuggets: Keeping Them Alive in the February '96 Modem Aquarium for guidelines on how to choose a healthy pleco and Catfish in Isolation in the December '95 issue for how to set-up and maintain an isolation tank). Now you may say this is a lot of work for a fish, but considering Satan or Adonis plecos command between $50 and $150 retail depending on size, I consider it protecting an investment. Technically, the true Satan is all black and the true Adonis is black with white spots. However, I have seen various Acanthicus species mixed in with them sporting a myriad of spotted, barred or mottled patterns. All have the same behavioral characteristics and, depending on the importer/distributor, can be offered as either Satan or Adonis plecos. Now while not correct from an ichtyological standpoint, these 'other' species are just as beautiful and rare. The Vampire pleco (Leporicanthicus galaxius and related species) hails from fast moving waters from the Rio Guana in Brazil. No, it is not a blood sucking pleco—it gets its name from its red tinged, fang-like teeth. Once costing hundreds wholesale, Vampires are now generally in the $40 range retail. Again, unlike its namesake, the Vampire is a relatively peaceful fish; although it cannot be pushed around. L galaxius is quite a hardy species, tolerating a wide range of water conditions provided it is highly oxygenated and has a fair amount of current (I have a friend who successfully kept one with Rift Lake Cichlids). Like the Satan/Adonis group, Vampires are imported as a mixture of related species, primarily differentiated by the color and pattern of their spots. I have seen many combinations of large and small, round and oval spots, in all yellow or white over a uniform black body. Vampires have impressive finnage and a long snout that houses those 'fangs'. These fish tend to hide during the day, but have been known to come out when food is around. They are omnivorous, and enjoy just about anything that hits the bottom. Keep the food high quality for maximum coloration. Vampires are reported to reach 15 inches (SL) but I've seen none over 10 inches.

The collection of plecos containing the word 'Devil' are all contained within the genus Pseudacanthicus. They are sold under the names Red Fin Devil, Spiney Devil, Red Fin Spiney Devil and a host of variants. Here is a fairly complete list (I've included the 'L' Numbers for further reference): Pseudacanthicus leopardus (LI 14), also called the Red Fin Leopard Pleco comes from the Rio Negro in Brazil. There are many variants in this species; with slightly different background color, number and size of spots and shade of red in the fins. One will undoubtedly tickle your fancy. They are imported many sizes from 2-12+ inches and are proportionately priced from about $25. Pseudacanthicas histrix and Pseudacanthicus serratus (L24) are from the Rio Tocantins in Brazil, and can sometimes be called a Red Fin Chocolate Pleco due to their olive green/brown body. These can be quite striking as their red fins are set off against metallic gold eyes!!! Like the leopard, they are imported in various sized, but are much rarer and more expensive, starting at about $40. Now the jewel of this group (in my opinion, anyway) is an undescribed species (L25) from the Rio Xingu' in Brazil, and is also sold under the names Scarlet or Red Fin Black Pleco. Picture a fish with a green/black body and metallic gold eyes, topped off with spines and fins ranging from orange to bright red. This magnificent creature is only sporadically available in the 10+ inch size, with a similarly large price tag (generally $100+ retail). All of the 'Devil' plecos are hardy omnivores that can tolerate a wide range of water conditions. Larger specimens, especially males, sport an impressive array of fin extensions and spines. While I've seen these fish graze on driftwood, they do not do it often. The Medusa Pleco (Ancistrus ranunculus) is collected in both the Rio Xingu' and Rio Araguaia in Brazil (see The Oddball Files: The Triangle Bushynose in the May '96 Modem Aquarium for more information). It is a rather difficult species to keep alive, as they generally arrive in this country in poor health, require highly oxygenated waters and are picky omnivores (at least initially). Prehistoric Cats are the only non-loricariids in this list. There are actually two fish that can go by this name, both from the family Dorididae. Pseudodoras niger is collected in Peru and Brazil and gets quite large~31 inches large (or as Ginny Eckstein once said to me, "it gets three feet long and a foot wide...!"). P. niger is all black with 10

an incredible array of sabre-like spines placed in rows down its back. It also sports a long snout terminated by an eternally busy turned down mouth. Primarily nocturnal, it can be trained to come out in view for food. This fish eats almost any pellet, tablet or wafer as well as frozen worms, krill or shrimp. Keep in mind that larger specimens will eat by the shovelful. An extremely peaceful giant, the literature states that full grown specimens can be kept with platys and small terras (I wouldn't try it). In my opinion, P. niger is inappropriate for most home aquariums. Nevertheless, 6-10 inch specimens are usually available in the hobby for about $30. A full grown specimen can be seen at the New York Aquarium in Brooklyn. The other fish sometimes named Prehistoric Cat is my wife's favorite. It is also called Irwin's Soldier Cat and can either be Megalodorus invini or M. uraniscopus (unless you're an ichthyologist, it doesn't matter). This cat comes from Brazil and Guyana, is a mottled brown/grey or brown/burnt orange in color and has a similar array of spines as P. niger. Unlike P. niger, it has long whiskers, a rounded face and an anteriorally placed mouth. The Megalodorus sp. do not get as big as P. niger, maxing out at 24 inches, but they share the same peaceful characteristics. Feeding is also similar, with the exception for its love of snails. They are available seasonally at about 3-4 inches with a pricetag in the $30 range. I have had one for about 3'A years and it now patrols my 220 (84x24x25) at a magnificent 13 inches. There are plenty of ghoulish tankmates to keep along with your "Catfish That Go Bump in the Night". While Ghost fish, Red Devils and Red Dragon Discus are probably among the first to come to mind, don't forget to include: Goat's Bloodfins, Killmefish, Open Arterial Bleeding Heart Tetras, Were-wolf Cichilds, Igouramies, Brutally Stabbed and Bloody Parrots, Sabre Toothed Tiger Barbs and Alligator Gar-goyles!!! So put on your wizard's hat, fire up the cauldron and have a fun and safe Halloween. Trick or Treat. Coda: Stay tuned for more in-depth study of catfish's common names in an upcoming series in Catfish Chronicles called "What's in a Name." As always, Much Success!!! References Glaser Ulrich and Wolfgang, Aqualog-Loricariidae. All L-Numbers. ACS Glaser Pub., 1995. Riehl, Dr. Rudiger, Baensch, Hans A.. Aquarium Atlas Volume 111. Baensch Pub. 1996.





CORAL AQUARIUM 75-05 Roosevelt Ave Jackson Heights, NY 11372 718-429-3934 Open Mon.-Fri. 10AM-8:OOPM Sat. 10AM-7:OOPM Sun. 12PM- 5:OOPM SALTWATER FISH

















All Major Credit Cards Accepted


10th Annual Giant Fish Auction Sunday, October 6 AUCTION: Viewing of fish starts at Noon; Auction starts at 1PM

Gateway National Recreation Area Floyd Bennett Field — Brooklyn, NY Directions: Belt Parkway to Flatbush Avenue South, Exit 11s, approximately 1.3 miles make a left (before toll booths) into GATEWAY NATIONAL PARK parking area. Follow the signs to the Blue Nose Hanger


31st Annual Tropical Fish Show Saturday, October 5 Sunday, October 6 Norwalk Aquarium Society of Fairfield County SHOW: Saturday (Noon to 5PM) and Sunday (10:30AM to 4PM) AUCTION: Sunday, starting at Noon

Nature Center for Environmental Activities - Westport, CT ^•••^^••^••^•••^•i

Giant Annual Auction Sunday, October 20 Long Island Aquarium Society Babylon Town Hall Annex 281 Phelp's Lane, Babylon, NY RAFFLES, REFRESHMENTS, FREE PARKING AUCTION: Preview starts at Noon; Auction begins at 1PM Directions: From L.I.E. or So. State Pkwy., take Deer Park Ave. south. Immediately after crossing over Southern State, the road forks — take the right fork. Pass high school and turn right at the light onto Phelp's Lane. Proceed to sign for Babylon Town Hall Annex (on the right). From Sunrise Highway, take Deer Park Ave. north to Phelp's Lane and go left; follow it around till you see sign for Babylon Town Hall Annex on the right. (If you pass Southern State Pkwy, you went too far.)

FOR INFORMATION CALL: Vinny (516)938-4066 or Maryeve (516)724-3011 13

G.C.A.S. HAPPENINGS \A/GI COmQ. The following new members joined Greater City in September: Steve Berman, Carole Collier, Qionghua Hu, Michael Loweth, Roderick Mosley, NickJRapajeHa^JRobert Sterlacci, Bruce Weiler And Welcome Back to all of our renewing Last month^ BOWL SHOW Winriirs: |s|| Ste|?§;Sagpna (Profomalis ovatus) 2nd jNbrlando,.jSf|nzalS| (Betta ^fendetifeji ig| - 1|||i Mjgjljx) (Bluetail Guppy)

THANKS! to* Tetra for donating books, fish fooc||f a test*, kit, j3o*werhea1J* and pond video for our September raffle. &emejnber %ur advertisers and donors when you makespo^ur ji||S hobby purchase.:|

Lights, Camem, AUClON! Just as we were going to print, we reeeiye^jnotic^;^ ;|wo|itnore events by North Easf Council spcieties. The North Jersey Aquarium Society's "Tr6p^c|| Fish Weekend Extravaganza|;wtt| speakers, show and auctiqnf'iS November . 1, %:;and; Jjiat the Howard Johnson Hotel. . . .in :Saddlebrook, NJ. Call I}0r£;Tor information at (20 1 ) 4|2i 1 6^: (days) or (20 1 ) 667-7972 (evenings)?; AND, the New Hampshire AquimtimlSociety's 4th ArMiaf Auction is Sunday, October 20 Companies in RoninsforalNri^^aJlitorn Neal at (60i||92^3977;:ibr details. See page 13 in this issue for^hree other October everi|s::of%igljb0nhg5iquariurn societies., ip

m i

Here are meetin« times and locations of aquarium societies in the Metropolitan New York area: Big Apple Guppy Club

:00 F^f- 3rd Thursday of iri6l|ph at|h^^.|^ueens Botanical Garden Diane Gottlieb 261-4650

: Brq>6Klyn Aquarium Society :Dorothy :Reirner: "Aquarium Plants" :?: ||fet 11, SPMplflucation H.all, Ai|uarium for Wildlife Conservation (BjpokJ|i::Aqua|prn) ::C6ntact: BAS Events Ifltline " sp;: .,; telephone: (718)j|PJ%J5 •: mit l| JJ

xmpnth at t&ijQueens Botanical Garden Contact: Stepheit I^wartler / Ed Rie||nond Telephone : (7 1 8)!ii|S506 / (7 1 8)76i^0 1 66

GREATER CITY AQUARIUM SOCIETY ^eets: 8:00 P.M. -;;ist;Wednesdaf si mon|H;:;at the Queenf '^otanical::;i3aTd||i; Contaii:: Mr. -Vintieni Sileo .,JP¥' Telephone:. (718) 846-6984 ^

Long [island Aquarium Society Meets: 8:00 ^iMllll^rdigfnday of each month at Holtsville £aB;; and Z^o, :249 Buckley Rd. Holtsville, NY 11801 Contact: Mr. Vinny Kreyling Telephone: (516) 938-4066

Nassau County Aquarium Society Meets: 8:flQ...^Sil;iP::' 2nd Tuesday of each impnttlxjat the Merrick Road Park Golf Course, Merrick, NY Contact: Mr. Ken Smith Telephone: (516) 589-5844

North Jersey Aquarium Society Meets: 8:00 P.M. - 3rd Thursday of each month at the Nutley American Legion Post Hall, Nutley, NJ Contact: Mr. Dore Carlo Telephone: (201)437-5012

Norwalk Aquarium Society Meets: 8:00 P.M. - 3rd Thursday of each month at the Nature Center for Environmental Activities, Westport, CT Contact: Mrs. Anne Stone Broadmeyer Telephone: (203) 834-2253

East Coast Guppy Association


Fin Fun DAPK It's that time of the year when we expect to encounter the "Creatures Of The Night." They may turn up anywhere; on street comers, at our front doors, or even in our aquariums. Can you pick out the NOCTURNAL (active at night), DIURNAL (active during the day) and CREPUSCULAR (active at dawn and dusk) "creatures" from this list? Reference: Baensch Atlas volumes I and II

| Nocturnal Diurnal Electric Catfish Jaguar Catfish Hora's Loach Glass Catfish Bristlenose Catfish Weather Loach Panda Cory Masquerade Cory Kuhli Loach Talking Catfish Dwarf Loach River Barb Spotted Shovelnose Catfish Banjo Catfish Armoured Catfish

Solution to Last Month's Puzzle: "Back to Work" 1) 13 2) 8 3) 70 4) 5)

6) 7) 8) 9) 10) 11) 12)

19 11 3 12 12 11 20






Profile for Dan Radebaugh

Modern Aquarium  

OCTOBER 1996 volume III number 8

Modern Aquarium  

OCTOBER 1996 volume III number 8