NOVEMBER 1994 volume i number 9
AQUARIUM ON THE COVER :"|| |||f |; For a beautiful;: Specimen such s as the Phenacagramrniisminterrupttjs f Congo Tetra) on our cover, ydu'JI want: to take extra care in transporting it. To learn more about fthistarelytiiscussed topic, read " H o w To 8a§ Fish" this month > Photo by Joe Lozito
Vol. I, No. 9
FEATURES From the Editor's Desk
How To Bag Fish
Try Something Different
Reviving Almost Dead Fish
GREATER CtTY AQUARIUM SOCIETY Board Members President . ..... . . .Joseph Ferdenzi Vice-President
., , ... . . , tBervHaus
^Treasurer . •'.';•* , . , . . , . . . Emma Maus •Cones. Secretary . . . . . . Gre0 WtfSst Recording Secretary ,. , PatPiccione Membership . . , . . . . . . Susan Priest Members At Large : ? Mary Ann Bugeia Joe Bugeia D o n Gurtin ::;;;: ; : Ooyg Curtin Mark Soberrnan Jaefc Oliva Steve Sagonal ;™™:: •" ;••; :::. • Vincent Sileo Warren '
It's Not How Small You Make It
Wet Leaves . .
Fin Fun (Puzzle Page)
MODEHN AQUARIUM Editor , , , .;.!;,-:» , , , » , . . Warren Feyer Assistant Editor ,. . . . AJexandei1 Priest Art Director ,, . . . . .,. StepharlyZanoler Advertising Mgr.i , . . ,i Mark Sobenrvan Executive Editor ,. . .Joseph Ferdenzi Printing By Postal Press
Articles submitted for consideration in MODERN AQUARIUM must be received no later than the 10th day of the month, three months prior to the month of publication. Copyright 1994 by the Greater City Aquarium Society. All rights reserved. Reproduction in any form of the articles, illustrations or photographs appearing in this magazine is prohibited without express written prior permission. Unless other rights have been retained by the author, and noted in the article or photograph, the Greater City Aquarium Society generally grants noncommercial reproduction rights to other recognized aquarium societies and naturalist organizations upon request. The Greater City Aquarium Society meets every month, except during July and August. Meetings are the first Wednesday of the month and begin at 8:30 P.M. Meetings are held at the Queens Botanical Gardens. For more information, contact Warren Feuer at (718)793-8724.
Bag Fish VINCENT SILEO
et's say you want to bring a fish to the bowl show or auction at your local aquarium society. How do you do it? You bag the fish, of course! YouVe seen it done many times at the local pet store. It's easy! Or is it? I thought it was easy until I started working for a local pet store where it had to be done correctly and quickly, or I might be,out looking for another job. I can sit back now and remember how I thought I would never get it right! The manager made every new employee practice with just a bag of water, and he would compete with us to see who could tie off their bag with the most air inside. We would fill one quarter to one third of the bag with water. Then, placing the bag on a flat and level surface, hold the top edges of the bag straight up so that the bag was held to its full height. It is important that you keep the top of the bag open, don't pull the top of the bag in opposite directions so that the middle closes. Now, here is the tricky part, while keeping the bag held to its full height with one hand, quickly grab the top edges of the bag -together with the other, "catching" the air inside. This had to be done as if you were catching a fly in mid-air and blowing into the bag like a balloon would be grounds for disqualification (not to mention that some people's breath could be more detrimental than beneficial to the fish!). Now that you have the correct amount of water and the most air possible in the bag we must consider how to tie the bag. There are basically two methods-tie a knot in the top, or
wrap the top with a rubber band. The following will apply for either method. Hold the bag so that all of the air is pushed down into the bag and the bag below your hand is extended to its full proportions, making sure that no air can escape. Take the top edges of the bag and pull them up so that every side is even and standing up straight. This is very important, if one side of the top edge is not wrapped by the rubber band or isn't long enough to complete the knot, air will escape. Now, with your other hand, start twisting the top of the bag just above your hand and work your way up to the top edges. To tie off with a rubber band, bend the top two thirds of the twisted top of the bag over and place the rubber band over this and as close to the inflated portion of the bag as possible. While holding the top edges tight, wrap the rubber band around until it is reasonably tight. If it is too loose the bag will unravel, too tight and the rubber band might snap when the bag is jostled during transit. If you find that you cannot get all the edges under the rubber band, try letting a little air out of the bag to give yourself more material to work with at the top. To tie a knot in the top, bend the twisted top portion of the bag away from your body and over the index finger of the hand which is holding the air inside. Then hold it there with the middle finger of the same hand. Bring the top end around to the side of the bag closest to your body, pull your index finger out and push the top end through the loop it left. Pull the end tight and make sure that all edges have come through the loop. The advantages to this method are that all you need is the bag and you don't have to worry about the rubber band snapping. The disadvantage is that you need more of the bag to work with and you can't get as much air inside the bag. The knot method never won any of the manager's contests. Here are some other factors that must be considered before you get started : 1) Make sure that you have a large enough bag. It must have enough room so that the fish will be completely covered with water and comfortable with only one third of the bag filled with water. 2) It is always a good idea to "double bag." There are always some leakers in every
batch of bags. When catfish or larger size fish are the occupants, "double bagging" is a must, and you might consider putting a sheet or two of newspaper between the bags. If the spine or whisker punctures the first bag, the paper will deflect it so that it doesn't puncture the second bag. 3) Who or what will hold the bag up and open while you catch the fish? (I'm embarrassed to say that this is one I still forget about today!). If you are alone, try placing the bag in a bucket or water pitcher. If you live alone and bagging fish by yourself is a common event, cut the top off of a plastic two liter soda bottle. It will be a valuable item to have on hand. Now, don't be ashamed to try catching air in a bag with only water and tying it off. Your fish will appreciate it! Just think about what it would be like to take a long trip with a new student driver behind the wheel! I hope that these hints will help you become a better "fish bagger" and make participating in aquarium society events even more enjoyable.
Try Something Different CHARLES KUHNE
oo much about African Cichlids? Heard enough of the latest Vodka With A Lemon Twist Guppy strain? You say that you're tired of hearing my Angelfish stories? Well then, Bucky, tell you what I'm gonna do... Some time ago, I watched in fascination, a fish that matched all the style, grace and beauty of my Angels. This fish
seemed to glide majestically across the wellplanted tank, fins erect front feelers twitching to and fro, and the colors, the colors... Red, jewel-like bands, about a dozen, diagonally crossed a blue-green body. But his most striking feature - a purplish, dark blue bib that covered his lips, gills and the lower front portion of his body. Yes, you guessed it. This was the male Dwarf Gourami, Colisa lalia, and he was dressed in his finest breeding outfit. And this day? This day would be like no other for him or for me. Five days earlier, he was placed alone in an almost bare 5 gallon tank. The water was only four inches deep. It was newly aged (2 days), slightly acid with a temperature of 80 degrees. DAY 1 : He explored the tank becoming familiar with the little 3 inch clay flower pot with the bottom knocked out, lying on it's side in the far right corner. Above it, cloaking 1/4 of the surface was the floating plant, Riccia. This plant is tiny but tough. The stem-like leaves branch and fork making a 1/4 inch open lattice cover over the top of the tank. This plant shade also provided a soothing effect on the male who tested it with his feelers, then tasted it. Not for food but for the plant's strength and resilience was it chosen. By the end of the first day a small bubble nest had been started in the left front corner, diagonally across from the flower pot cover. Perfect! The pot had been placed so the male could not see into either opening from his position under the nest. (This pot would become a protective shelter and rest area for the female). DAY 2 : I don't think the little rascal slept! A fully formed nest about 2 to 3 inches across and 1/4 inch deep was in front view. It was interlaced with Riccia and interspersed with tiny, tiny bubbles. Tirelessly, he'd dart back and forth with a bit of Riccia in his mouth. Sometimes, he'd start back, see a better piece, try to grab that one in his mouth, too, while the previous piece floated free, then try to get both pieces in his mouth, and succeed. Then, he'd race back under the nest and push both pieces into place. If one little bit jutted out that didn't meet his critical eye, he'd pull and push while the whole nest rose and fell with his efforts.
REVIVING FISH JOSEPH FERDENZI
iracles can happen â€” even in fishkeeping. Does reviving a dead fish qualify as a miracle? How about an almost dead fish? Well, the latter can be done. No need to use voodoo medicine, either. I've used a revival technique on a number of occasions with success. The following example is simply the most recent illustration of its successful use. The subject fish was a rare killifish from Mexico, Cyprinodon alvarezi, which is extinct in the wild. I have never enjoyed great success in raising these fish, so when I saw a young (one inch) male alvarezi lying motionless on its side at the bottom of the tank, I was prepared for the worst. Indeed, I promptly got a net in order to remove it and dispose of it. Now, mind you, this fish had looked perfectly healthy the day before and was eating well. It was in a ten gallon tank by itself, with crystal-clear water. There was not a blemish on the fish nor any other sign of disease. But, heyâ€”fish sometimes die for reasons that are not discernible to us, and I surmised that this was just another such occasion. Anyway, when I picked up the fish in the net, I noticed that the fish "twitched." Looking at it more closely I saw that the fish was still breathing, albeit laboriously. Hope springs eternal. I started to employ my revival technique. The first step consists of trying to propel the fish forward so that water flows into its mouth and, per force, out its gills. This is a very rudimentary form of piscine "artificial respiration." This propulsion can be accomplished by either holding the fish gently between two fingers (or in your hand for larger fish) while making sure not to cover the gills, or by holding the fish in a net, and then moving it forward, or even "swishing" it. Be gentle and don't over do it. Just do this long enough to assure yourself that the fish is breathing on its own. A few minutes is generally sufficient. Here, I kept the alvarezi in the net and gently moved it about until I was satisfied that the breathing, although slow, was regular.
The next step is most important. It requires that the fish be positioned in an upright manner and remain undisturbed until it either recovers or dies. In this case, I accomplished this by "sandwiching" the fish between the front glass and the net. The folds of the net kept the fish upright. (Removing the net caused the fish to fall on its side.) Fortunately, there were no other fish in the tank to disturb it. So, there it sat, breathing slowly. The next day, I went down to the fish room and examined the alvarezi's tank. The net was still there, just as I had left it. But, lo and behold, no fish was inside. Indeed, the fish was swimming about, behaving normally, as if nothing had happened. It ate well, and has continued to show no ill effects. This revival technique can also be used on fish that have been savagely attacked by other fish, fish that have gone into sudden "shock," or any other fish found floating or lying on its side or back. Try to remember a few pointers. Avoid moving the fish to a new aquarium. This only causes more stress. If you must move the fish, use water from the old aquarium to fill the "hospital" tank. I have successfully used hanging "net" traps to isolate fish from the other aquarium inhabitants. The fish is "sandwiched" between one side of the trap (or tank) and another object, such as a piece of driftwood, a stone, or even a jar full of water or gravel. It really doesn't matter what you use, as long as it is done gently, without squeezing the fish. "Net" traps are better than traps with all solid sides (such as standard "guppy" breeding traps) because the former allow for a more unrestricted water flow. A "floating" fish that won't stay down can usually be suspended in a net just below the water line. If this doesn't hold the fish upright, the next trick would be to sandwich the fish between a pane of the aquarium and the side of a hanging "net" trap. Of course, this exposes the fish to other inhabitants of the aquarium. So it may be advisable in that situation to either remove the sick fish or remove the other inhabitants. Years of fish keeping have taught me that, for reasons that I cannot fully explain, keeping fish in an upright position is usually essential to their recovery from disorders or injuries that cause them to lose their equilibrium. There is no guarantee that a "miracle" will happen. However, my now healthy alvarezi is proof that "miracles" can happen.
roduct Review Whisper WDF 3000/4000 Wet/Dry Power Filters WARREN FEUER
n the September, 1993 issue of our previous publication, The Network. I wrote a review of the above (then) new filters from Whisper. It is the stated goal of these filters to provide all three types of filtration: chemical, biological and mechanical. In case you've forgotten, or were never really sure, here is a brief description of each type of filtration, as described by Sarah Fell Kepler in her book "A School of Fish", which is an excellent book for beginning aquarists: Biological Filtration allows the colonization of bacteria that convert harmful Ammonia into Nitrite and then converts Nitrite to Nitrate. Chemical Filtration assists in the purification of the water. Typically, carbon is used. Mechanical Filtration removes particles, both visible and microscopic in size. To incorporate all three types of filtration, the WDF filters work as follows : Step 1 - Mechanical Filtration: After flowing into the filter, water is forced through a filter cartridge which traps suspended waste particles. Some initial biological filtration occurs here from bacteria that have colonized the filter cartridge. Step 2 - Chemical Filtration: The water passes through a packet of activated carbon which absorbs discoloration, odors, contaminants and other chemicals such as chlorine, insecticides and detergents. Step 3 - Biological Filtration - The water drips through a sponge which exposes the water to aerobic bacteria that have colonized the sponge To recap my previous evaluation, I used the WDF3000 in a 10 gallon tank (it's rated for use in tanks between 10 and 29 gallons and had previously been used in a 29 gallon tank), and I tested a new WDF4000 in a 29 gallon tank that I
had just set up at the time (the WDF4000 is rated for tanks between 29 and 65 gallons). In my initial review I felt that both filters worked very well and was looking forward to their continued use. So now, here we are, one year plus later. Do I still view these filters favorably? Let's take a look at what my experience has been with these filters before I give them a grade. I found it necessary to place sponge type pre-filters over the intake strainers of each filter. A great deal of plant matter ended up getting sucked into the filters before I added the pre-filters, reducing the water flow in and out of each filter and necessitating frequent cleaning of the sponges and filter cartridges. Once I attached the pre-filters, I found it necessary to monitor the flow indicator tubes (the water level in this tube indicates the condition of the filter media, and helps to show when filter changes are necessary), as the pre-filters often got clogged and needed to be rinsed out. When I first reviewed these filters, I stated "it is recommended that the filter bag and carbon be replaced once a month. While that may seem like excessive maintenance adhering to this schedule will help ensure optimum filter performance." How prophetic those words turned out to be. In an attempt to economize, instead of replacing the filter cartridges, I tried rinsing out and reusing them. This turned out to be a mistake as the performance of the filters decreased tremendously, to the point where I thought there was something wrong with the filters. Once I replaced the cartridges the filters' performance immediately returned to normal. If you have one of these filters, or are planning to get one, don't economize on the maintenance. It is not worth the decrease in performance, and the replacement carbons and filter cartridges are reasonably priced. In the course of the test period I found that I had to replace the aerobic section sponges in the WDF4000 twice. The sponges got so clogged that the water flow through them slowed to the point that the water was backing up. Again, replacing the sponges remedied the situation. Another question that I had in my initial review concerned how powerful these filters are. I still feel that the maximum tank size recommend for these tanks is optimistic. While I believe the WDF3000 can handle a 29
gallon tank (its maximum recommended size), it is better suited to smaller tanks. I do not believe that the WDF4000 can handle a 65 gallon tank, which is its recommended maximum size. Based upon my experience, it would be hard pressed to handle anything over a 40 gallon tank. I still give these filters a favorable rating. These are several things to bear in mind regarding them. First of all, the suggested maintenance of replacing the carbons and filter cartridges once a month should be followed as closely as possible. If you don't like to adhere to a regular maintenance schedule or are looking for an economic filter to use, this is not for you. The sponges are not a one time purchase, but should be replaced once they have clogged up so much that they are impeding water flow. I rinse the sponges out every other week in aquarium water (using aquarium water doesn't kill the bacteria that have colonized the sponge).
Secondly, these are not very powerful filters and should not be used on tanks that are at their recommended maximum size. This is especially true for the WDF4000, which, in my opinion cannot handle a 65 gallon tank. What does the future hold for my two filters? I plan to continue using the 4000 on the 29 gallon tank. The only changes I'll make will be to replace several pieces of the intake tube that are overgrown with algae. The flow indicator tube, for one is rather hard to clean inside. I think it will be easier to simply replace. Having served so well in the 10 gallon tank, I've decided to test the WDF3000 further by using it in a 20 gallon (long) tank I've just set up to hold some Lake Tanganyika cichlids. I expect that, as long as I continue the maintenance I've been following and don't overcrowd the tank, the WDF3000 should perform admirably.
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T'S NOT HOW SMALL YOU MAKE IT It's How You Make It Small
by "The Undergmvel Reporter" In spite of popular demand to the contrary, this humor and information column continues. As usual, it does NOT necessarily represent the opinions of :the Editor/ or of the Greater City Aquarium Society.
he last column I wrote discussed what I called "ROT" or Rules Of Thumb which are frequently mentioned in the literature of the aquarium hobby, but which are not necessarily (or are not always) true. One more bit of ROT that I repeatedly see is the advice given to a newcomer to the hobby to start off with the largest size tank she or he can afford and can accommodate into available living space. As with most ROT, there is something of the truth in this statement. A larger tank allows the beginner, who almost always goes overboard with initial fish purchases, to have a wider variety of fish. Once established, it's easier to maintain biological filtration in a larger tank, all other things being equal. Now on to the ROT. With proper advice and planning, even a beginner can have success and enjoyment with a small tank. Before I expand on this thought, it's important to define some terms. Last month our Editor seemed to take an opposing viewpoint. Yet, his idea of "small" seemed to be anything under ten gallons. Most of the aquarium books that advocate larger tanks for beginners appear to have tanks at least twice that volume in mind. Yet, it's still possible to have success with five and even two and a half gallon tanks. Personally, I like small. Miniatures have long fascinated me. I enjoy seeing ornate doll houses with lamps that light up at the flick of a miniature wall switch, and an "N" or "Z" scale model railroad layout. While I'll pass at raising Oscars or Jack Dempseys, dwarf cichlids peeking out of multiple small caves and crevices fascinate, amuse and entertain me no end. Reef tanks are beautiful, but a mini reef tank to me is absolutely mesmerizing. Let's face it â€” even the largest home aquarium setups are an attempt to recreate nature in miniature.
I propose that, instead of steering beginners into large tanks (with large initial costs), we help them learn how to care for a small tank. By a "small" tank, I mean 10 gallons or less. Once they succeed on this scale, they almost always move up to more and larger tanks. However, if they fail once with a 55 gallon tank, it is rare to see them try again. One thing to remember about a small tank is that whatever you or your fish do will have a greater environmental impact. Replace five gallons from a 55 gallon tank, and you've changed less than 10 percent of the water, generally too small a change to improve poor water conditions by itself. Replace that same amount from a 10 gallon tank and you've done a 50% water change, a change drastic enough to stress most tropical fish. Actually, a 5 gallon change in a 10 gallon tank is usually more than a 50% change, since plants, gravel, heater, rocks and other decorations (and of course fish) occupy space that would otherwise be filled with water, so that the actual volume in a ten gallon tank could be eight gallons or less. Similarly, adding one fish to a 10 gallon tank has at least as much impact on that tank's environment as adding five like sized fish to a 50 gallon tank. A small tank can overheat more readily (either from being unintentionally placed too close to a window or heat source, or from a malfunctioning or poorly adjusted tank heater). An infected fish can spread disease or parasitic organisms faster in a small tank (much like you in an elevator with someone coughing and sneezing in your face). Yet, small tanks have advantages as well. For one thing, several small tanks each with one or two types of fish can have their pH and water hardness more closely adjusted to the needs of their inhabitants. For example, mollies and swordtails are often recommended for a "community tank." The typical recommended pH of a "community" tank is 7.0 (neutral). Yet, these livebearers do better with slightly alkaline water â€” one with a pH greater than 7.0. The problem with the small tank is not the tank, it's the aquarist. How many of you started out with one tank, and an absolute resolve not to have any more than one (or at the most two) tanks? How many of you have kept to that resolve? The aquarium hobby is so fascinating, so interesting, that it's easy to go overboard.
BROOKLYN AQUARIUM SOCIETY Calendar of Events Sept 9
Home Aquarium ~ Then & Now • Michael P. Enright
Pieces! Pieces! Pieces! ~ An in-depth look at a popular species of catfish Lee Finley (Writes for FAMA.AFM & MAM) (sponsored by Tetra) • Plus Aquatic Plant Sale
8th Annual BAS Giant Fish Auction Freshwater & Marine Fish Held at Gateway National Recreation Area, Floyd Bennett Field. Free Admission.
Nov 11 GreenhouseCoialPropagation~Techniquesyoucanu9e • DidcPemn (Owner of Tropiconum) Dec 9
BAS Annual Holiday Party ~ Members and Guests
Those Gorgeous Guppies! • East Coast Guppy Assoc. Plus Show Guppy & Livebearer Auction
Reefkeeping Made Easy • Gregory Schie Schiemer (BAS) • Tony Vargas (BAS) Auction of Aquarium-Propagated Corals
Water Gardens for Plants & Fish • Charles B. Thomas (Pres. uiypons Water Gardens) Goldfish & Koi Auction • Autographed Book Sale • Aquatic Plant Sale
Apr 14 The Reef Tank • Julian Sprung (Sponsored by Tetra) • Plus Autographed Book Sale 4th Annual BAS Marine Fish & Invertebrates Auction May 12 Things That Go Wrong in the Aquarium Hobby • Charlie Grimes (Sponsored by Mantel Labs)
Modern Trends in Marine Fish & Reefkeeping • Terry Siegel (Editor Aquarium Frontiers) BAS Elections
The Brooklyn Aquarium Society is a non-profit organization dedicated to bringing people together for the advancement of the aquarium hobby and the study of aquatic life. The Society meets the 2nd Friday of the month, except July & August, at the Education Hall of the NY Aquarium for Wildlife Conservation at Coney Island, Surf Ava at West 8th Street, at 8:30 PM Free Parking Free Refreshments. For More Information Call: BAS Calendar of Events 24-Hour Information Hotline (718) 332-6677 Or write: Brooklyn Aquarium Society, P.O. Box 290610, Brooklyn, NY 11229-0011
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My few reservations are in the descriptions of the traits of certain fish. I'm not sure what the author means when he lists "plants" under "special needs" for the Betta splendens. While I have a few plants in a tank with some female bettas and use plants in a A Series On Books For The Hobbyist mating tank to provide a female betta with a ALEXANDER A. PRIEST hiding place, I really doubt that plants are a "special need" of bettas. ooks for the tropical fish hobbyist seem I believe that the potential agressive to fall into one of two general types: nature of both Tiger Barbs, Barbus tetrazona, Reading or Reference. In the Reference and the Red Tailed Black Shark, Labeo bicolor, category would fall virtually all of the "atlas" is downplayed a bit too much. Of the Tiger type books (Axelrod's, Baensch's) and the Barb, the book states: "The reputation of these "identifier" books. While it is possible to sit and fishes as fin-nippers may be ill-deserved; keeping read the nearly 10 pound, 1,100 plus page them in a group may distract their attention from Axelrod Freshwater Atlas, it's like reading a other fishes' fins." A drawing of how different phone book â€” long on characters, but short on fish occupy different areas of an aquarium story. On the other hand, "reading" books have (bottom, middle and top feeders) shows an a story to tell and, if they are any good, involve angelfish and fancy tailed guppy in the same and interest the reader. "tank" as a tiger barb. I YoU <& Your Aquarium Both types have their Presently, I have some place on the bookshelf !|i.' :-?by'::J^cfe;IWBIls": . . albino Corydoras Alfred A. Knopf, publisher of the tropical fish catfish whose dorsal hobbyist. fins have been all but chewed off by my It is rare to find a "reference" book that fin-nipping group of Tiger Barbs. you want to sit down and actually read. Rarer As for the Labeo bicolor, this book still is the "reading" book that you keep handy as states that "It may quarrel with its own species." a ready reference source. You & Your Aquarium Well, until his death recently, I maintained an is just this type of book. 8Vi gallon tank with exactly one fish in it, a Red It's a "How To" book (how to make Tailed Black Shark. This fish attacked every your own undergravel filter; how to photograph other fish that went into that tank, not only other fish; how to use a fish net correctly, how to Red Tailed Black Sharks (which he also did). select and show fish for competition). It's an He would tolerate exactly one Otocinclus, a "Identifier" book, with color photographs of dwarf suckermouth catfish, in his tank. some of the most popular freshwater and marine Now, I realize my experiences may fish. It's a technical manual, with charts on the differ from those of other hobbyists, but most of relative value of various foods, aquatic plant the other books I have read provide greater comparisons, water hardness, tank capacity. It's warnings about the potential agressive nature of a fish disease manual, with pictures of afflicted both of these fish. fish and flow charts to diagnose skin problems With those minor negative comments and swimming problems. It's a beginner's aside, I must say that I feel that this book, at a manual showing how to set up various types of list price of $15 for 288 pages, softcover, is well tanks from scratch and explaining with pictures worth buying and adding to your permanent and diagrams how various filters work, and with library. Rarely have I seen so much information drawings that clearly explain fish anatomy, fin about the aquarium fish hobby presented so types and even the eye structure of fish. clearly and concisely. There are purchasing hints, tips on transporting fish, and tips on how to identify ;TMs is- the;;firstsin a series ofsbook revieypj good or poor fish specimens for purchase or for to appeaM in iiMotiern Aquarium. ' . i Tiii|; exhibiting at a fish show. There is even a column is :;open: to anyone;:: inWGJCAS w generic discussion of fish shows. wants; to; review:? any book;; or magazin My general impression of this book is a related: to: the ^liarium hob|>y;;; i: very favorable one. I would highly recommend it, especially to a beginner in the hobby. This is not to say that I don't have a few reservations, however.
G.C.A.S. HAPPENINGS GCAS First Annual "Fish Fry" Registration has begun for the first annual GCAS "Fish Fry," a contest to test the aquaristic talents of our members. All who participate will be trying to prove their fish raising talents by growing young Haplochromis sp. "flameback" fry for 9 months; from January, 1995, to September, 1995. Contestants will bring in the best one of their fish for judging at the September 6, 1995, meeting. The contest.entry fee is $5.00: and it is open only to GGAS members. Entry forms are available at the meeting. Thissentry fee includes the "flameback'';:ifry:and soxit ;is also an opportunity to obtain a rare and; beautiful fish (a Lake Victoria cichlid) at a very reasonable price. For more infonriatioOjKand answers to any questions you might have, see Warren Feuer or Mark Soberman.
BOWL SHOW RESULTS
Here ate the results of the first two bowl shows for the 1994-1995 season. Congratulations on the revival of the bowl show by our new chairman, Steve :Sagbria; Keep up the good work,;: Steve! September Bowl Show ....:.;|;\ v% 1st Place: . . . . Pinlt Convict 2nd Place: Honey Gourami 3rd Place: . /^Betfasplendens October Bowl Show 1st Place: . 2nd Place: 3rd PlacetS
;?: Eli P^z WiriceMSileo Al-aful Sue Priest
Butterfly Betta . . . . ,:;, Carlotti DeJager TJrquoisexBetta . . . . ; ; Susan Priest ;s Curtin
HOLIDAY PARTY •• •
Our annual Holiday Party will be held at our January:;4, 1995, meeting. This is a chance to:chat with y<jur feilpw GCAS members and enjoy sorae:good snacking. To help make.this year^S party alsuccess, be sure to tell Mary Ann Bugeia what you are planning: to bring to;the partyl Participants in our "Fish Fry" contest will pick up their;? flameback."; fry at that meeting^
Have yxju noticed 6ui|"Exchange Table?" We are making available Exchange Issues of other societies*;Jmblications for your perusal, There is no charge for this service and you should feel free to browse;through these publications and see if you find anything thai;tickles your fancy.
MEMBER TO MEMBER EXCHANGE In the September issue of Modern Aquarium, we announced the Member-to-Member Exchange, an opportunity to advertise any equipment or fish you might be interested in selling or trading. So far, no one has availed themself of this service. Why not? If you're interested, see Warren Feuer, or give him a call at (718)793-8724, or drop him a line at: Warren Feuer 68-61 Yellowstone Boulevard, Apartment 406 Forest Hills, New York 11375 16
NOVEMBER 1994 volume I number 9