Trance: October 2022 Issue

Dazed and Bewildered

Dear readers,

We have reached the point in the year where it feels as if the world has dulled. The last remnants of color seem to fall off the trees, the sky lends itself to grayer days and the cold air numbs our faces and coreces us to stay inside. During this time of year, it can be easy to feel like you are in a state of in-between — a Trance.

Our goal for this issue was to explore this hypnotic state and its dualities. What does it mean to be in a trance? What does it look like? For some, a trance may be an exciting sci-fi adventure full of neon colors and electric perceptions. For others, a trance may feel like a lucid dream that is disorienting and woozy; a dazed and bewildered condition. Trance is futuristic, yet mystical; it takes on many forms—dynamic in nature.

This issue of Moda Magazine seeks to define trance on different levels. Kate Reuscher, a Lifestyle contributing writer, identifies trance at the individual level in her article, “An Endless Dream or Recurring Nightmare?” by providing ways to pull yourself out of a “funk” during the desolate, cold seasons. In this case, a trance takes on the role of a frustrating state of weariness and lack of motivation. Reuscher suggests tips such as imagining your younger self in order to break free of this exhausting trance-like state and empowers us to take control over our consciousness by asserting that “however you choose to pull yourself out of the funk and take on the world again doesn’t matter…the only person who can pull you out of a funk is yourself.”

On a societal level, a trance becomes an umbrella term that encapsulates the narratives—true and false—that spread throughout the masses. In “Lost in a Filtered Reality,” Culture assistant editor, Sarah Kirsch, shines a light on the way that social media aids influencers and celebrities in creating and sharing an inaccessible lifestyle, thus prompt-

ing them to lose touch with reality. Kirsh points out that perhaps social media influencers are in a trance of their own, explaining that by curating aesthetic and luxurious lifestyles online, they have lost touch with reality and authenticity beyond the screen.

In the same vein, social media has created hypnotic trends that go beyond humans. Fashion staff writer, Clara Padgham, examines DressX, a digital fashion brand that sells virtual clothing in her article, “Digital Design Dystopia.” In a world where social media reflects our lives, virtual clothing markets itself as a solution to pollution and the taboo of posting an outfit twice. However, Padgham argues that the high cost and unnatural look of the clothes are among the many issues with the emergence of virtual reality clothing, explaining that “textiles and movement make fashion so impactful. They are what we see and what evokes our emotions just like brushstrokes on

a canvas. The new digital landscape is stripping garments of their artistry.”

Inside of this issue, the Moda Magazine team has created an experience that we hope will feel trance-like to our readers. From the electric colors in our editorial and fashion editorial spreads, to the insightful articles on trances of all varieties, we hope that Trance evokes edgy emotions and dream-like reactions. As you explore the hypnotic pages of Trance, I invite you to lose yourself in the pages and let your mind be absorbed—your own personal trance.

Mason Braasch

Cheers,

Power of the Subconscious

Exploring healing through psychospirituality

By Mi Chuinda Levy, Lifestyle Editor

Graphic by Haley Wolff, Staff Illustrator and Designer

Psychospirituality is the fine culmination of psychology and spirituality developed to help people achieve clarity, find meaning and better themselves. Although this concept might sound new age, it is anything but. Many religions and cultures have built their core beliefs, traditions and practices around psychospirituality and altered states of consciousness.

The Sámi tradition of Joikng involves using vocals to help people shift from normal consciousness into trance states, where they can ground themselves, enter meditative states and become closer to not only themselves but to nature.1

Overall, states of consciousness can be categorized into five levels of trance: very light trance, light trance, medium trance, deep trance and very deep trance. The mildest state of trance involves increasing self-awareness and becoming more conscious of emotions and sensations, while the heaviest state of trance involves a complete loss of consciousness (almost like an extremely deep sleep).2

In the past, the shamans of the Sámi, known as Noaidi, used shamanism to undertake people’s souls through a journey into the world of the dead. This occurred below the water or inside of the earth to help return the lost or “stolen” soul parts to the unhealed.3 Similar ideas have been reworked in modern applications of psychospirituality to healing and therapy.

Though breaking down the ego and defense mechanisms we’ve built for ourselves consciously might be difficult, these tribulations we encounter in life can be used as a catalyst for transformation and growth.

1 Joy, Francis. “(PDF) What Influence Do the Old Sámi Noaidi Drums from Lapland Play in ...” Accessed October 10, 2022.

2 Aletheia. “How to Induce a Trance State for Deep Psychospiritual Work.” LonerWolf, September 29, 2022. Accessed October 10, 2022.

3 Joy, Francis. “(PDF) What Influence Do the Old Sámi Noaidi Drums from Lapland Play in ...” Accessed October 10, 2022.

Now, psychospiritual therapy can be defined as a “general term for any eclectic system of body, mind and spirit integration (natural psychology) that incorporates “mind” techniques.”4 Using such therapy techniques has been said to be beneficial because humans tend to have a structured soul that unconsciously blocks us from certain behaviors and experiences we have in life.

Trance states can help remove barriers our egos have created in an attempt of self-protection. They allow people to open their souls to create a more spacious and unstructured soul through healthy detachment and disidentification techniques.5 Though breaking down the ego and defense mechanisms we’ve built for ourselves consciously might be difficult, these tribulations we encounter in life can be used as a catalyst for transformation and growth. How can one begin breaking down these defense mechanisms? By learning to consciously enter trance states. There are a multitude of ways to induce a trance state, and once in that state, the options to heal and explore your true inner self are endless.

Breathwork: Through using controlled breathing pacings and rhythms, you can induce trance-like states. Holotropic breathwork involves breathing in and out at a rapid pace and has been proven to lead to intense trance states.6 Deep and slow breathwork can also induce lighter trance states. Yogic practices place emphasis on using breathing techniques, so that might be a good place to start.

4

Primal rhythms, beats, and sounds: This technique is tried and true by many shamans of the past, including the Noaidi. Drums, vocals, and various rhythms can transport people into trances; this is mainly because of the repetition and sound frequencies involved.7 If you’re trying this technique, try to find sounds or songs where you focus more on the sounds than the words to relax your conscious state of mind.

“Psychospiritual Therapy.” The Free Dictionary. Farlex. Accessed October 9, 2022.

5 Alton, Gord. “Toward an Integrative Model of Psychospiritual Therapy: Bringing Spirituality and Psychotherapy Together.” Sci-hub, 2020.

6 Aletheia. “How to Induce a Trance State for Deep Psychospiritual Work.” LonerWolf, September 29, 2022. Accessed October 10, 2022.

7 Ibid.

■

An ode to CAMP

The Met Gala’s recent announcement of their 2023 theme has us looking back on past latest and greatest moments from the first Mondays in May. When it comes to the event’s potential to push fashion boundaries, one would be remiss not to bask in the glory that was 2019’s “Camp: Notes on Fashion.”

On the red carpet, celebrities brought the avant-garde: Billy Porter dressed as an Egyptian Pharaoh with gilded wings and Zendaya wore a light-up Tommy Hilfiger Cinderella dress with her stylist in tow dressed as her fairy godmother.1 Cardi B wore $250,000 rubies as nip ple covers, and that was the least no ticeable part of her oxblood red pea cock ensemble that boasted 30,000 feathers, a crystal-adorned headpiece and 10-foot-train that weighed more than she did.

While Vogue’s exhibit is credited with putting the style under a spotlight in recent years, the exhibition pulled in spiration from an earlier source: Susan Sontag’s seminal 1964 essay “Notes on ‘Camp” in which she explains what “camp” means in 58 bullet points. Son tag defines camp not as an idea, but as a sensibility characterized by arti fice, stylization, theatricalization, irony, playfulness and exaggeration.2

In its inherent resistance against so cietal norms, camp is deeply rooted in LGBTQ+, Black and Latinx spaces, from the thriving culture scene of Har lem’s house balls in New York City to the influence of Pepper LaBeija, Ben ny Ninja, Josephine Baker and RuPaul. At the 2019 gala, Met Gala Co-Chair Lena Waithe paid homage to the aes

1 Julie Kosin, “Zendaya’s Cinderella Gown Just Stole the Show at the 2019 Met Gala,” Harper’s BAZAAR, May 6, 2019.

2 Susan Sontag , “Notes On ‘Camp,’” 1964

The eccentric style of fashion is having a modern moment

Written By Rachel Hale, Culture Editor Photographed by Luc Marchessault, Staff Photographer Edits by Hunter Kiehl, Photography Director Modeled by Aliya Glasper | Makeup by Mara Hansen Styled by Ella Cunz, Programming and Special Events Coordinator Styling assisted by Madison Targum, Editorial Team

thetic’s roots in a pin-striped suit with the words “Black Drag Queens Inven tend Camp’’ donned on the back. The stripes on the suit were composed of lyrics from songs like Diana Ross’s “I’m Coming Out” and Gloria Gaynor’s “I Will Survive,” and the suit’s gold but tons were molded to replicate the fac es of influential Black figures.3

Now, as fashion retreats from the loungewear-dominated years of the pandemic’s onset, the irony and bold ness of camp are having a modern-day moment. Clashing color combinations, eccentric designs, bold prints and lay ering are transpiring on the runway, in street fashion and on for-you-pages. GCDS creative director Giuliano Calza brought to life Nickelodeon’s “Sponge Bob SquarePants,” in imagery and tex tures from beads, embroideries and net-like mesh,4 and Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring-Summer 2023 Show reflected “the transition from childlike naïveté to grown-up refinement” through childhood symbols like origami paper planes, building block beading, mod eling clay textures, cartoon prints and sandbox tool embellishment.5

Influencers like Myra Magdalen and Sara Camposarcone (@myramag dalen and @sarahcampz on TikTok) have brought experimental fashion to the forefront of the internet, using items like lightbulbs, power strips and watches to make one-of-a-kind thrift flips and upcycled outfits. Magdalen said she pulls inspiration from “the OG Lady Gaga and Nicki Minaj styles” from when she “was a teenager — that su per pop art, camp stuff.”6 Camposar cone utilizes online resale platforms like Poshmark, eBay and Depop to find pieces for her kid-core, over-the-top looks, and told Refinery29 that 95% of her closet is secondhand or vintage.7

Whether it’s on the red carpet or the internet, the resurgence of camp is in spiring freedom and overt self-expres sion. From its influence on the drag scene to its cultural resurgence on so cial media and street wear, camp fash ion has continually redefined norms around what is deemed stylish. ■

3 Gwen Aviles, “Lena Waithe Honors Black Drag Queens with Met Gala Outfit,” NBCNews.com, NBCUniversal News Group, May 7, 2019.

4 Dylan Kelly, “GCDS SS23 Lives in a Pineapple under the Sea,” HYPEBEAST, September 25, 2022

5 Louis Vuitton, “Men’s Spring-Summer 2023 Show,” LOUIS VUITTON June 20, 2022

6 Sophia Moore, “How to Accessorize with House hold Items, According to Myra Magdalen,” Bustle, August 9, 2022

7 Nadia Ebrahim, “Meet the Kidcore Stylist Who’s a ‘Sustainable Maximalist,’” Sara Camposarcone Is A “Sustainable Maximalist”, April 1, 2022

Deliberately Designed for DISCONNECTION

Getting caught in social media’s dissociative trance

Written

by

Sydney

Collins, Contributing Writer Illustrated by Jenny Lee, Staff Illustrator and Designer

Have you ever started scrolling on TikTok or stalking an ex on Instagram only to find yourself in the same position two hours later, unaware of how time passed so fleetingly? While older generations frequently scoff at this behavior, there is a psychological explanation for what you’re experiencing: dissociation. As social media becomes more central to our everyday lives, researchers are increasingly asking questions about connections between dissociation and these platforms.

Dissociation is a state of disconnection from one’s thoughts, feelings or iden tity.1 Dissociation facilitated by social media may look like being fully ab sorbed in the content one consumes or scrolling absentmindedly while pre occupied with a thought. Research has found that increased use of social media correlates with individuals’ in creased feelings of dissociation.2

Analyzing social media platforms—es pecially image-centered ones like Ins tagram—can provide insight into how their use may cause heightened feel ings of dissociation. These platforms encourage constant projection of the self, as users curate happier and more popular versions of themselves.3 This can be seen in the rise of a phenome non dubbed casual Instagram, in which users post photos conveying a lack of forethought and their indifference to ward aesthetics. However, casual Ins

1 “Dissociation and Dissociative Disorders.” Disso ciation and dissociative disorders – Better Health Channel, n.d.

2 Baughan, Amanda, Mingrui Ray Zhang, Raveena Rao, Kai Lukoff, Anastasia Schaadhardt, Lisa D. Butler, and Alexis Hiniker. “‘I Don’t Even Remember What I Read’: How Design Influences Dissociation on Social Media.” CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems, 2022.

3 Cummins, Eleanor. “Our Screens Are Making US Dissociate.” Medium. OneZero, March 4, 2020.

tagram content is far from laid-back. Psychologist Dr. Richard Smith argues that “there will always be an element of performance because, by nature, that is what social media is.”4 Casual Instagram is simply another way for in dividuals to distance their online pres ence from their identity in a way that appears authentic.5 Disconnection from one’s identity is central to dissociation.

The current research about these trends makes it clear that social media users are not failures for falling victim to social media-facilitated dissocia tion, nor do they lack self-control. The reality is platforms are intentionally designed to capture and keep users’ attention, diminishing their capacity for the self-awareness needed to step away from a phone screen.5 Successful social media companies also tailor their platforms to users’ emotion and rou tine, creating habitual use6 and making stepping away that much harder.7

Becoming more knowledgeable about these platforms makes it tempting to become a social media nihilist. Howev er, not all dissociation is harmful. Seek ing an escape from the present through social media can improve stress-in duced negative emotions by providing distraction.8 Dissociation only becomes

4 O’Connell, Édaein. “Instagram’s Gone ‘Casual’, but Are We Performing More than Ever?” Stylist. The Stylist Group, January 27, 2022.

5 Amanda Baughan. “Why It’s Important to Think about Social Media Use as a Form of Dissocia tion, Rather than Addiction.” The Conversation, September 13, 2022.

6 Baughan, Amanda, Mingrui Ray Zhang, Raveena Rao, Kai Lukoff, Anastasia Schaadhardt, Lisa D. Butler, and Alexis Hiniker. “‘I Don’t Even Remember What I Read’: How Design Influences Dissociation on Social Media.” CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems, 2022.

7 Eyal, Nir. “The Hooked Model: How to Manufac ture Desire in 4 Steps.” Nir and Far, September 11, 2022.

8 Wolfers, Lara N., and Sonja Utz. “Social Media Use, Stress, and Coping.” Current Opinion in

harmful when users spend more time dissociating than they would have in tentionally chosen to,9 causing feelings of frustration and distress.

To combat these feelings, one can adopt counter-action strategies. Cur rent frontrunners in research on so cial media-facilitated dissociation suggest setting time limit notifica tions and engaging with usage statis tics pages. Doing so allows users to become self-aware of their content consumption without having to do so consciously, which often is not possi ble during dissociation.10

It is equally important for users not to burden themselves with endless guilt and to be able to recognize the role that calculated social media design plays in this situation. After all, how do we break free from social media’s dis sociative trance when platforms delib erately design their apps to cause it? ■

Psychology 45 (2022)

9 Baughan, Amanda, Mingrui Ray Zhang, Raveena Rao, Kai Lukoff, Anastasia Schaadhardt, Lisa D. Butler, and Alexis Hiniker. “‘I Don’t Even Remember What I Read’: How Design Influences Dissociation on Social Media.” CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems, 2022. 10 Ibid.

After all, how do we break free from social media’s dissociative trance when platforms deliberately design their apps to cause it?

Digital Design Dystopia

The emergence of digital fashion and why it should disappear

Written By Clara Padgham, Fashion Staff Writer | Graphic by Samantha Meyerson, Contributing Illustrator and Designer

The overlap between technology, fashion and media is simply a part of daily life in the 21st century. Social media’s stronghold on consumers bombards us with brand-new outfits every second of scrolling. Sometimes, an influencer’s ‘fit pic’ consists of items that are worn one time for a post and then never touched again. New trends seem to emerge daily, and once an outfit hits your Instagram there is an unspoken rule that it cannot be posted again. The trend cycle continues to get faster and faster, pressuring buyers to keep up with relevant fashion and adding more polyester to our ecosystem.

Considering the aforementioned problem, marketers were able to identify a gap in the fashion industry. A gap in which consumers sought clothing that would not pollute and that they would not need to rewear. Enter: digital wearable fashion.

DressX is a brand making digital clothing you can purchase online and download to “wear.” Essentially, the brand sells 3-D filters of pieces, helping you save space in your closet. These clothes—if we can even call them that—come with many issues. The DressX digital pieces have a peculiar fit. They are intended to look worn, but instead, they appear to sit on top of the body much like a hightech paper doll. In a collaboration with Pacsun, DressX marketed digital jeans to their TikTok audience, but the creator’s actual pants were fully visible behind the ill-fitting filter. The clothes look animated, and the unnatural look-

ing fabric does not portray the digital garments the way they would actually hang on the body. They are far from photorealistic—the technology has a long way to go.

The real kicker of digital fashion is its ridiculous cost. On the DressX website, most pieces of clothing cost around $50, with others costing upwards of $1000. Since garments can only appear in photos and repeating outfits is a social media taboo, consumers are essentially spending upwards of $50 for a single post. Social media has consumed our confidence to the point that we would be willing to put money into getting more likes, which brings up issues that cannot be solved by buying digital fashion.

In a collaborative project with DressX, designer Gary James McQueen hosted a digital fashion show. They used software that made their clothes look mobile on the animated models and had them walk down a gaudy animated runway, making the world feel as if it was transcending into something dystopian.

media post?

Textiles and movement make fashion so impactful. They are what we see and what evokes our emotions just like brushstrokes on a canvas. The new digital landscape is stripping garments of their artistry. Where else are you going to wear these digital pieces besides a social media post?

Frankly, there are far better options than buying intangible goods. Posting on social media should not be a priority in everyday life, and paying to look cool for followers will only affect you negatively in the long run. As much as someone may want to argue for wearable digital fashion, it cannot exist without the need to post it. Instead, save your money and spend your time and energy learning how to style pieces in new ways. ■

Where else are you going to wear these digital pieces besides a social

The Fine Line Between Vanity and Self-Confidence

Written by Sophie Corsaro, Contributing Writer Graphic by Mac Gale, Arts Curator

On the surface, self-confidence and vanity can seem very similar. Both reflect how an individual views and takes pride in themself. The difference lies in the fact that self-confidence is trusting in one’s abilities, judgment and how one presents themselves to the world, while vanity is the excessive belief in oneself. How does one know when belief in oneself becomes excessive?

Often, self-confidence leads to a healthier lifestyle, as more self-confidence results in one thinking less about themself and more about what they want to achieve. This means time can be spent working towards goals and resilience in the face of hardship.1 It also means that you are more likely to take risks that could be beneficial in the long run.

Self-confidence can also be beneficial in forming relationships because you can be secure in what you are capable of and what you want without negating anyone else’s success or power. It also allows people to gain more fulfillment from the world around them because having self-confidence allows people to take less stock in the values and expectations of others, and place more stock into living the life they truly want to lead.

Vanity on the other hand, often leads people to a more negative lifestyle, due to someone only thinking about themselves and failing to realize how their focus on themselves hurts people around them. This is because vanity skews the focus of looking good for yourself towards looking good for other people.2

Vanity creates a tunnel vision where one is willing to do anything and everything to create the outward appearance of perfection, power and success. This self-obsession is dangerous for a multitude of reasons. In terms of appearance, harmful behaviors can manifest in an attempt at perfection. For example, someone who believes they are most beautiful when they tan may tan so much that they develop melanoma or other health conditions. People who are vain show off this so-called perfection, often without realizing the impact it could have on people who may look to them for inspiration.

1 Roam & Thrive, “The Benefits of Confidence & High Self Esteem + How to Achieve It,” Roam & Thrive, 2021.

2 Susan K. Whitbourne, “The High Cost of Vanity,” Psychology Today, 2014.

This negative impact is also amplified because many will not take advice or accept criticism because they don’t believe there is anything wrong.3 Such denial by them can make it hard to interact with others because there is no reasoning with them, and due to self-obsessive tendencies, it hinders vain people from forming relationships that are truly two-sided and supportive. 4

How does one tell the difference between self-confidence and vanity? The way to tell the difference is if one is ready to admit their flaws. Everyone has them, and recognizing imperfection while still being secure with who you are is essential to developing healthy self-confidence and relationships. ■

3 Lakeisha Ethans and Kristen Lawrence,“10 Habits That Reveal Someone Displays Too Much Vanity,” Power of Positivity, 2020. 4 Ibid.

People who are vain show off this so-called perfection, often without realizing the impact it could have on people who may look to them for inspiration.

What does it mean to be too obsessed with yourself?

ALICE’S TRIP TO WONDERLAND

An exploration of the relationship between “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland” and perception

Written by Ali Wagman, Contributing Writer | Photographed by Hannah Ritvo, Contributing Photographer Modeled by Isabel Bogan and Charlene Hunyh | Styled by Ava Beydoun, Fashion Editorial Team

As children, we are encouraged to use our imagination. We play house, build Legos or create paintings that despite looking like a blob of colors, remain hung on the fridge. But as we get older—and life gets a little harder—our imaginations are used differently. Just for a moment, we find other ways to lose touch with reality.

Lewis Caroll plays with this idea in “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland,” where little Alice’s curiosity brings her down a rabbit hole into an entirely new world made up of all sorts of fantasy characters. Upon closer inspection, even though Carroll’s story was writ ten for children, the way he chooses to explore altered perceptions may represent more mature themes than what appears in the charming Disney version. Was Alice really in a fantasti cal world full of magical creatures, or did she take psychedelics that altered her reality and reflect Carroll’s severe mental illness? Is what Alice saw in Wonderland real, or was it something else entirely?

The last time I watched the movie “Al ice in Wonderland,” I was probably five-years-old. So, I decided to rewatch some scenes through my much older and wiser 19-year-old lens. From the

“drink me” scene in which Alice ingests an elixir that causes her to grow and shrink, to the hookah smoking Cheshire Cat, the movie appeals to both stoners and children alike.

Initially made in the ’50s, the mov ie’s high provided by psychedelics include the distortion of size, such as when Alice grows into a giant af ter eating a cake. Another similar instance occurs in Chapter Five of Carroll’s book when Alice eats the caterpillar’s mushroom and her head falls to her feet. The “trippy” nature of the story has also influenced music, such as Jefferson Airplane’s “White Rabbit,” which uses the story of “Al ice in Wonderland” as a representa tion of drug culture in the ’60s.

However, research has disproved the theory that Lewis Caroll wrote “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland” under the influence of psychedelics—which would have made a great piece, to my disappointment. But Carroll may have suffered from temporal lobe epilepsy, and it is possible that his neurological condition inspired the book. His diary records him seeing “disordered forti fications,” similar to the growing and shrinking that Alice experiences.1

1 Maria Guilia Marini, “So Much Inside Alice in Wonderland For Medical Humanities,” Medical

Given that the book was written in the late 1800s, it is unlikely that he could blatantly write about mental illness. In stead, he may have chosen to reflect his illness through his characters: the White Rabbit’s “I’m Late” represents general anxiety disorder, the Queen of Hearts narcissist syndrome and most importantly, little Alice, whose hallu cinations prevent her from existing in reality. 2 Sound familiar? In the 1950s, Carroll’s work even inspired the name of a rare psychological disorder known as “Alice in Wonderland Syndrome,” in which people perceive the size of their body parts incorrectly.3

For many of us, “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland” will always hold a sense of nostalgia and playfulness. We can remain fans of this classic and acknowledge how our favorite childhood authors are simply adults with the same hunger for creativity as children. Carroll’s work demonstrates this, transforming the harsh realities of adulthood into something a lot more fun, like a trippy cartoon cat who uses a hookah pipe. ■

Narrative.eu., 2018

2 “The Neurological Disorders in Alice in Wonder land,” The Tutor Pages, NeuroscienceNews, Jan. 12, 2018.

3 Ibid.

Deepfakes, Privacy

How artificial intelligence-generated porn creates a privacy crisis

Written by Laine Bottemiller, Online Assistant Editor | Graphic by Jessica Tenenbaum, Creative Director

As misinformation and clickbait swirl around the internet, truth is becoming harder to discern. What looks and sounds true must be true, right? Wrong. With the development of frighteningly smart technology, lies are easier than ever to engineer.

Deepfakes are artificial intelli gence-generated photos, videos and audio that mimic original content. AI uses computer science to translate data sets into intelligent problem-solv ing, according to IBM.1 To create deep fake videos, AI distills a person’s image by digesting photos and video clips and uses software to map the media onto a completely different individual, Business Insider explained.2

Deepfake pornography replaces an in dividual’s face in pornographic content. Nonconsensual deepfake pornography accounts for 96% of deepfake videos, according to Sensity, a fraud detection company.3 Celebrities with public, ac cessible content are easy targets for these videos; there are documented deepfake porn videos of figures such as Gal Gadot, Scarlett Johansson and Taylor Swift.4

This type of pornography is increas ingly accessible to the public. In 2019, DeepNude ricocheted through the in ternet. The app allowed users to up load a photo of an individual and pro duced nude versions of that photo. Just a day after receiving widespread attention, creators took the app off the market, The Verge reported.5 Despite its removal, the app is still not difficult to find.

Deepfake porn almost exclusively con sists of women. Videos from the top five deepfake porn platforms were 100% of women, a 2019 Sensity inves tigation reported.6 If users uploaded

1 “What is Artificial Intelligence (AI)?” IBM Cloud Education, IBM, 2020.

2 Dave Johnson, “What Is a Deepfake? Every thing You Need to Know.” Business Insider, Aug. 10, 2022.

3 Henry Ajder, Giorgio Patrini, Francesco Cavalli, and Laurence Cullen, “Reports – Sensity,” Sensity AI, Sept., 2019.

4 Samantha Cole, 2017. “AI-Assisted Fake Porn Is Here and We’re All F*cked.” VICE, December 11, 2017.

5 Jacob Kastrenakes, “Controversial deepfake app DeepNude shuts down hours after being exposed,” The Verge, June 27, 2019.

6 Henry Ajder, Giorgio Patrini, Francesco Cavalli,

a picture of a man to DeepNude, the software just added a vulva to the pho to, The Verge noted.7

Despite the violating development of nonconsensual deepfake porn, con sensual deepfake porn can be entic ing for certain audiences. For Erik, a man who became a paraplegic after a car accident, deepfake porn is an op portunity to recreate a now-unattain able experience.

“We’re in that stage of technology where the alternate reality world … is more and more real,” Erik said. “As someone who, by sheer circumstance, was deprived of a part of my life that’s very natural, I welcome that idea.”8

Still, the vast majority of deepfake vid eos on the internet—96%—are noncon sensual porn. In both cases, the ability to create artificial nude images brings about questions of privacy violation and limits on technology.9

Despite these concerns, limits on deepfakes can be an infringement on the First Amendment. The Supreme Court’s 2012 ruling on United States v. Alvarez declared that falsity alone doesn’t revoke freedom of speech.10 Deepfakes enjoy this protection from the law, yet defamation, obscenity, threats and imminent-and-likely incite ments of violence are not protected by the First Amendment.

Some creators feel they have a cre ative right to manufacture deepfake content. In a Reddit post, user Gravi ty_Horse said that the work created in the deepfake community “is not with malicious intent.” “We are painting with revolutionary, experimental tech nology, one that could quite possibly shape the future of media and creative design,” the user wrote.11

and Laurence Cullen, “Reports – Sensity,” Sensity AI, Sept., 2019.

7 James Vincent, “New AI deepfake app creates nude images of women in seconds,” The Verge, June 27, 2019.

8 Allie Volpe, “Deepfake Porn Has Terrifying Impli cations. But What If It Could Be Used for Good?” Men’s Health, April 13, 2018.

9 Henry Ajder, Giorgio Patrini, Francesco Cavalli, and Laurence Cullen, “Reports – Sensity,” Sensity AI, Sept., 2019.

10 Danielle K. Citron & Robert Chesney, “Deep Fakes: A Looming Challenge for Privacy, Democ racy, and National Security,” 107 California Law Review 1753, 2019.

11 Ibid.

Little existing legislation addresses the destructive potential of deepfakes. Only four states have laws limiting the creation of deepfakes, and only two of the four have laws regarding deep fake pornography. California and Texas both have laws prohibiting the release of harmful political deepfake content before an election.1213 New York has a law banning nonconsensual comput er-generated pornography.14 In Vir ginia, lawmakers expanded the law banning the malicious distribution of another person’s nude content to in clude photos or videos adapted to look like another person.15 On Aug. 4, 2021, the U.S. Senate Committee on Homeland Security and Governmen tal Affairs advanced the Deepfake Task Force Act, which would establish a team to investigate how to limit the deceptive use of deepfakes.16 The bill is still in committee.

One legal route to bring nonconsensu al deepfake porn to justice is a defa mation case. A defamation case must prove a statement published was false and damaging. Nonconsensual deep fake porn can be considered false be cause the individual featured in the video isn’t actually in it, Eric Goldman, a law professor at Santa Clara Univer sity School of Law, explained.17 How ever, defamation claims can be expen sive and complicated, and anonymous sources are hard to pin down.

Despite any legal redress victims can pursue, deepfake videos are nearly impossible to erase from the inter net. Noelle Martin, a lawyer from Aus tralia, discovered she was a victim of nonconsensual altered pornographic content after reverse Google image searching herself. The search featured

12 K.C. Halm, Ambika Kumar, Jonathan Segel, and Caesar Kalinowski, “Two New California Laws Tackle Deepfake Videos in Politics and Porn,” Davis Wright Tremaine, Oct. 14, 2019.

13 Committee on State Affairs, “86(R) SB 751Senate Committee Report version - Bill Text,” Texas Legislature Online, 2019.

14 Matthew F. Ferraro and Louis W. Tompros, “New York’s Right to Publicity and Deepfakes Law Breaks New Ground,” WilmerHale, Dec. 17, 2020.

15 Unlawful dissemination or sale of images of another; penalty, § 18.2-386.2, Virginia General Assembly.

16 Jule Pattison, “Senate Committee Advances Bill to Create Deepfake Task Force,” Government Technology, Aug. 6, 2021.

17 Megan Farokhmanesh, “Is it legal to swap someone’s face into porn without consent?” The Verge, Jan. 30, 2018.

Privacy and Porn

images of Martin’s face, taken from an innocent Instagram post, edited onto pornographic content. Some shots were Martin’s face on adult actresses engaged in sexual intercourse. Others pictured two men ejaculating onto the face of Martin, who was 17-years-old at the time.

When Martin went to authorities at tempting to remove the images, she discovered it was not possible. Instead, Martin was told to contact each site’s webmaster and request them to take the images down. After exhausting herself attempting to remove the thou sands of images shared, Martin spoke publicly about her experience, hoping to find support.

Instead, the internet slut-shamed her. “She’s a fat, ugly slut, she’s a whore,” one user said. “She’s an attention-seek ing piece of trash,” another scorned.

Martin went to the New South Wales Attorney General’s department and found out the organization was in the process of drafting laws criminalizing the nonconsensual distribution of in timate images. After Martin became a public face for the new laws, New South Wales became the first state in the world to include a provision on al tering images. But these laws are far from universal, and even farther from accomplishing justice. “Right now, there’s no justice for people like me,” Martin said.18

Deepfake porn shatters reputations, wrecks mental health and violates an individual to their deepest core. In dividuals have the right to privacy of the impression of their own body. A deception made in their image is still their image.

Deceptions are indistinguishable from the truth, but nonconsensual deepfake porn does irrefutable damage to vic tims. Technology is evolving beyond the government’s ability to protect their citizens. It’s clear that deepfake porn in vades the most personal sense of priva cy, and as technology evolves, the real question is who decides the boundaries of our technological privacy. ■

18 Noelle Martin, “Online predators spread fake porn of me. Here’s how I fought back | Noelle Martin,” YouTube.

delirium

Directed by Erin Galioto, Fashion Editorial Direc tor, Robyn George, Fashion Editorial Assistant, Ava Beydoun, Grace Collar and Rayyan Bhatti, Fashion Editorial Team | Photographed by Han nah Huber, Assistant Photography Director and Jami Balicki, Staff Photographer | Modeled by Fiona Maccrimmon, Forrest Rivers and Saumya Sachdeva | Makeup by Macy Chen

Additional photo featured on back cover

The Mirror is Mistaken

Written by Maddie Tjalsma, Contributing Writer | Illustrated by Wylie Knight, Staff Illustrator and Designer TW: Mentions of Body Dysmorphia, eating disorders and body image.

The rise of social media platforms such as TikTok and Instagram is a double-edged sword when it comes to discussing mental health. Digital platforms have created the space for honest conversations and awareness for what used to be a taboo subject, but they also breed space for users to trivialize the experiences of those who struggle with mental illness.

When it comes to body dysmorphic disorder (BDD), users on these apps have seen problems with the misuse of medical buzzwords and the normalization of self-diagnosing without medical expertise.1 Both of these minimize the experiences of those who actually 1 Meaghan Warner, “A Challenge with Social

have BDD, further stigmatizing the issue and holding those impacted back from getting help. As communities on social media navigate the growing conversation around body image and mental health, it is important to uplift the voices of those who struggle with body dysmorphic disorder and illuminate the factual science behind the illness.

Body dysmorphia is a mental health disorder in which perceived flaws in one’s appearance are obsessed over to a point beyond personal control, affecting social relationships and overall daily life.2 It is widely accepted as a disorder caused by environmental and psychological factors, but modern medical technology has begun to prove that there is a neurological influence behind severe body image issues

Media: Self-Di- agnosing Mental Health,” UT Health Houston, 2021. behind as well.

A study from UCLA focused on the biological factors that force the brain into this state, showing a connection between those diagnosed with anorexia and body dysmorphia: abnormalities in their visual cortex. Both populations have issues processing general information but are keen to observe minuscule details in images. This distinction in memorizing details versus the larger picture occurs almost immediately (one-tenth of a second after-

Both occurs ward). Medicine.

These abnormalities in brain activity affect people with BDD and anorexia by creating a distorted self-perception when they look in the mirror, forcing them to see minuscule detailed flaws instead of a beautiful whole.

“Body Dysmorphic Disorder,” John Hopkins

“Brain Abnormalities Similar in People with Anorexia and Body Dysmorphic Disorder,” UCLA

Health, 2015.

Body dysmorphic disorder impacts 2 to 3 percent of people in the U.S. Young women are the highest demographic of those affected by BDD and other body image disorders.4 Transgender and nonbinary people are also largely affected and face a deeper struggle because eating disorder and body image disorder narratives often exclusively uplift white, thin, heterosexual and cisgender women.5 Gender non-conforming people are subjected to the transphobic heteronormative ideals of our society while still being subjected to diet culture. The issue for marginalized people is exacerbated because they are not invited to join the conversation.

.

While the type of person who struggles with body dysmorphia varies, those impacted are all at risk from the overgeneralizations made on social media that trivialize their disorder into mere insecurities. The stigma surrounding BDD has the opposite effect that the social media conversations intended to have, which is to give those who struggle with the disorder the comfort and bravery to ask for help. In order to breed a positive space on social media to talk about mental health, it is important to stick to the scientific facts behind these disorders.

■

4 Katherine Phillips, “Prevalence of BDD,” International OCD Foundation.

5 Jamie Bushell, “Gender Dysphoria, Body Dysmorphia, & Body Image In Trans & Non-Binary Folks,” Center for Discovery, 2021.

In the world of social media mental health, there is a need to prove the true science behind body dysmorphic disorder

In order to breed a positive space on social media to talk about mental health, it is important to stick to the scientific facts behind these disorders

Do Not SleeP ON RAVE WEAR

The rise of consumer’s obsession with EDM fashion

EDM fashion allows people to express themselves and their creativity while surrounded by individuals with similar interests, creating a community and safe space for people to be free and in control of the way they look and feel. Rave clothing started becoming popular in the early ‘90s, around the same time as underground events became a global phenomenon.1 The electric style of EDM music and the vibrant, light-up aesthetic of its fashion are inextricably linked. As rave music developed over time, so too did rave clothing. Both the music and the EDM aesthetic of dizzying bright colors and holographic designs will leave you in a trance.

The rave craze has inspired club and streetwear outfits in various ways. Looks incorporating LED lights are especially popular because of the rise in accessories such as light-up masks, color-changing headgear, LED eye lashes and of course, glow sticks.2 For an even more daring look, LED col or-changing outfits are the way to go.

Fashion designers all over the world are incorporating these funky styles into their designs.3 Japanese design er Tatsuro Horikawa’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection was inspired by the ‘90s techno era. The collection includ ed a much brighter color palette com pared to his other designs.4 Similarly, Russian fashion designer Gosha Rub chinskiy’s Spring/Summer 2018 col lection was inspired by ‘90s Russian ravers. The runway included an array of club-friendly items, from graphic tank tops to fluorescent pink track pants and tie-dye T-shirts.

Reflective fashion has also become popular recently. The reflective mate 1 New York Spaces Covering all Thinks New York!, “What is rave style clothing?: New York Spaces,” July 13, 2022.

2 “Follow the rave fashion trends for 2022,” Rave or Sleep March 10, 2022.

3 F., By and Fashionlady, “Everything you need to know about the holographic fashion trend,” Indian Fashion Blog, Jan. 17, 2019.

4 R Li, “Ready to rave 6 collections inspired by club culture,” Grailed, Feb. 12, 2019.

rial used in these outfits is similar to what road workers use on their uni forms to ensure vehicles can see them at night. You can imagine this effect under the flashing lights of a rave; the fabric evokes lights and camera flash, giving your outfit a striking neon glow. Reflective clothing makes the perfect attention-grabbing outfit that allevies any worry of being lost in the crowd.

Celebrities helped bring EDM fash ion into the mainstream. In 2015 Mi ley Cyrus started incorporating tinsel, brightly colored fur, leotards and pompoms into her style.5 Miley’s love for holographic material and space buns made her the face of the movement. She was inspired by Kandi charms, brightly colored beads with designs or wording of some sort.6 People often exchange Kandi at raves as a sign of appreciation, love, unity and respect. Miley even worked with designer Jere my Scott to create a rave-inspired art collection.7 The collection, “Dirty Hip pie,” featured bright accessories made of various trinkets. Scott, Moschino’s creative director, creates “out there” looks inspired by pop culture and bright colors. At New York Fashion Week 2014, Miley wore one of Scott’s two-piece sets covered in bright yel low, pink and turquoise swirls. To top it off, she included colorful beaded necklaces and a headpiece.

The e-commerce and retail world has also caught on to the popularity of music festival wear for every occa sion. iHeartRaves, an online store that specializes in popular rave clothing perfect for festivals and beyond, was founded in 2011 by a rave couple.8

From bikinis to tank tops, iHeartRaves’ online clothing store carries hundreds of affordable rave outfits for all gen ders. Their mission is to inspire creativ

5 N Stelio, “Miley Cyrus gleefully riding the wave of new rave culture,” The Sydney Morning Herald, Jan. 22, 2015.

6 J Tessene, “Kandi etiquette: The guide to trad ing for first timers,” EDM Identity, July 8, 2022.

7 tyler.trew.7, “Miley Cyrus channels rave culture with ‘dirty hippie’ kandi art collection,” Your EDM, Sept. 13, 2014.

8 “Rave outfits, Rave Clothing, rave wear,” iHeart Raves, (n.d.).

ity and self-expression through differ ent forms of EDM fashion, and they sell a wide range of clothing, from sparkly and bright to dark and more alterna tive aesthetics.

This sustainable way of shopping has become popular among consumers interested in festival wear. Knitty Knit suk, a Depop shop, creates hand-knit ted and crocheted sustainable items that allow you to live out your Vanes sa Hudgens Coachella dreams.9 Tara Khorzad London, another Depop store, sells items with every print from zigzag and fire designs to Rubik’s cube prints. These funky pieces allow individuals to express themselves freely and loudly.

Although EDM apparel was originally designed with the intent of being worn to raves, today’s festival clothing can double as streetwear. A simple change from platform boots to combat boots can make any EDM-inspired outfit seem more cool and cozy. From neon prints and artsy beads, this fashion aesthetic has continued to be a form of self expression for ravers, celebrities and everyone in between. ■

9 “4 fave depop shops for this year’s festival looks,” Contemporary Fashion, (n.d.).

Written by Devin Reiman, Contributing Writer

Photographed by Abby Cima, Staff Photographer | Modeled by Hannah Matthews Styled by Robyn George, Fashion Editorial Assistant | Makeup by Macy Chen

Lost in a

Filt ered Rea lity

Have influencers lost touch with reality?

Written by Sarah Kirsch, Culture Assistant Editor Photographed by Emma Spaciel, Staff Photographer Modeled by Karly Jaynes

Mikayla Noguiera, a 22-year-old makeup artist based in Massachusetts, recently went viral for her comments about the hardships of being an influencer.1 In a since-deleted video, the beauty influencer told her 13 million TikTok followers, “I literally just finished work and it’s 5:19. Try being an influencer for a day. Try it.” The audio has since circulated around TikTok, with critics lamenting that Noguiera’s comments were tone-deaf and privileged.2

Scandals like Noguiera’s give light to an important ques tion: are influencers out of touch with reality? It’s no secret that big influencers and celebrities are getting richer with

1 Christian Allaire, “How Mikayla Noguiera Became One of TikTok’s Favorite Makeup Artists,” Vogue, May 30, 2021.

2 Brahmjot Kaur, “TikToker Mikayla Noguiera faces backlash for previously saying that being an influencer is hard,” NBC News, Sept. 26, 2022.

every post. According to Forbes, the top-earning TikTok in fluencers of 2022 are Charli D’Amelio, Dixie D’Amelio, Addi son Rae, Bella Poarch and Josh Richards, with frontrunner Charlie D’Amelio reportedly earning over $17 million dollars this year from the Creator Earnings on TikTok.3

Influencers can make money in a variety of ways, whether they’re a micro-influencer or a well-known celebrity. Spon sored brand posts and follower interactions harvest money on social media platforms like TikTok, Instagram and You Tube. Once they’ve gained a few thousand followers, col laborations with companies or sponsored brand posts are popular ways for influencers to make money. Some creators go on to start their own businesses or sell their own mer

3 Abram Brown and Abigail Freeman, “Top-Earning TikTok-ers 2022,” Forbes, Jan. 7, 2022.

chandise, such as Emma Chamberlain’s Chamberlain Coffee company or Charli D’Amelio’s merchandise website.4

Brand deals and paid advertisements, while lucrative, become messy when there is a lack of disclosure to one’s audience. This lack of transparency prompted the Federal Trade Commis sion (FTC) to release an advertising disclosure guideline for online influ encers in 2019, outlining the impor tance that consumers know whether a post is an ad or not.5 Under FTC law, influencers have to disclose when they are being paid for a product, receiving free or discounted items or complet ing business deals. Whether it be with a #Ad or thanking the brand in a cap tion, it’s necessary that comprehend ible disclosure exists.6

Federal security laws for anyone promoting crypto assets or crypto currencies often involve more trans parency, stating that it’s mandatory to disclose the nature, source and amount of compensation received in exchange for a promotion.7 Kim Kar dashian, a well-known billionaire and influencer, was recently fined by the U.S. Securities and Exchange Com mission because she didn’t disclose a paid endorsement from a crypto company in 2021. Although she used #Ad, Kardashian didn’t reveal she was paid $250,000 for the post, and now must pay a large settlement fee and forgo promotion of cryptocurrency for three years. Her situation raises questions about the authenticity of influencers and their endorsements.8

Influencers’ lack of authenticity has been a rising concern for younger gen erations on social media platforms. Huge influencers do not live the same life as high school students on TikTok for fun, college students with a parttime job or adults with nine-to-five jobs. For some macro-influencers, a million dollars is a simple click, but users are realizing they want authentic and meaningful engage ment when they go on social media sites instead of an aesthetic, unat tainable lifestyle. 9

4 Ibid.

5 Paolo Zialcita, “FTC Tells Influencers How To Properly Disclose Ads on Social Media,” NPR, Nov. 5, 2019.

6 “The Scoop on Social Media Influencer Disclo sure Requirements,” Truth in Advertising, n.d.

7 Marty Swant, “After Kim Kardashian’s SEC set tlement, influencers working with brands could face more scrutiny - and fines,” Digiday, Oct. 4, 2022.

8 Ibid.

9 Joei Chan, “Influencer Fatigue: Are We Done With Influencers?,” LinkFluence, n.d.

Asides from legal trouble with disclo sure issues, influencers often receive accountability in the form of backlash from the public, namely for environ mental concerns. Names like Drake, Taylor Swift, Travis Scott and Kylie Jenner have been criticized for taking private jets to avoid the time traveling distances, with an extreme example be ing the three-minute flight Jenner took on her private jet to avoid a 39-min ute-drive.10 The average car emits 4.6 metric tons of carbon dioxide a year, but private jets produce two metric tons of carbon dioxide per hour, mak ing celebrities’ use of jets vastly out of touch with increasing gas prices and temperature rises related to climate change.11 Peter DeCarlo, an associate professor at Johns Hopkins University, said the problem is not only environ mental but also about social in the way it could impact fans. “[Viewers] want to emulate that behavior. Then, a pri vate jet becomes a status symbol and something that people aspire to, and that is not what we need right now in the context of climate,” he said.12

The filtered reality many influencers live in can be harmful to themselves and their viewers. The burnout expe rienced after continuous posting can

10 Alex Bridle, “Kylie Jenner private jet scandal: 3 minute flights raise uproar,” Esquire, July 22, 2022.

11 Leslie Finlay, “How Private Jet Emissions Affect The Environment,” Buzzfeed News, Aug. 16, 2022.

12 Allyson Chiu, “Celebrities use private jets exces sively. It’s a climate nightmare,” The Washington Post, Aug. 2, 2022.

lead to breaks like Chamberlain’s hi atus that started last December and lasted for six months due to her mental health decline.13 Many influencers are expected to post consistently, interact with fans and create likable content, which can cause stress on their men tal health. The fear of failure exists for those that make content creation their main job, and comparing one’s success to another influencer’s can cause men tal health or self-esteem problems. The excitement of gaining a following can be quickly diminished by cancel cul ture or financial problems.

Viewers of these influencers look up to them as people to imitate or aspire to be, even when that image is unhealthy or unrealistic. Constant comparison can cause self-esteem and confidence issues, especially if one follows influ encers with a “perfect” and “aesthetic” life. This reality can also harm viewers by pushing the idea that materialistic and luxurious items are attainable for everyone, while people usually cannot afford said items with their day-today paychecks.

Social media influencers have tremen dously grown in recent years and have a strong hold on their viewers. It is vi tal for them to show authenticity and avoid getting lost in a filtered reality. ■

13 Ryan Fairfield, “Emma Chamberlain takes You Tube hiatus, reveals mental health struggles,” The Tufts Daily, Mar. 7, 2022.

ENTRANCED BY THE MAD

Why we love psychological thrillers

Written by Cate Tarr, Arts Staff Writer Graphic by Alexa Kantor, Contributing Illustrator and Designer

We all know the feeling: your favorite character turns their back on their so-called best friend, or the villain of the film reveals their heartwrenching backstory in an unforeseen speech. Perhaps the characters engage in absurd activities and carry out tasks that are unshakeable and even uncomfortable to watch. But nevertheless, these are our favorite films—they are psychological thrillers.

Psychological thrillers are a sub-genre of thrillers that center around confusing and surprising the minds of the audience. What distinguishes this realm of media is its focus on the characters rather than the plot. Instead of disturbing its viewers through individual actions, the movie sends shock through the audience’s veins by revealing why the characters act a certain way. Often, what is most jarring is the mental stability of the characters rather than their physical traits or appearances.1

The first key physiological thriller was the 1960 film “Psycho” by Alfred Hitchcock. Holding an impactful yet surprisingly simple premise, “Psycho” reached unparalleled levels of fame due to its unanticipated plot. The slow, painful reveal of the most climactic scene is an imperative component of psychological thrillers. It is essential to build unease and dread in audience members as they begin to understand the truth of the characters.2

The key to creating an effective psychological thriller is through major plot twists, an unreliable narrator and familiar elements.3 If a film contains unforsaken events and people but takes place in an average-looking neighborhood or a functioning household, the audience receives an elevated sense of unease and confusion. Furthermore, this allows viewers to question if something like this could ever happen to them.4

In order to create suspense, it is important to reveal unknown facts about the characters to the audience as the movie goes on, such as a surprising backstory or battle with

1 “Psychological Thriller” TV Troops, 2021.

2 Chilling, “The History of The Psychological Thriller Genre” The Chilling App, 2021.

3 MasterClass, “How to Write a Psychological Thriller” MasterClass, 2021.

4 Ibid.

mental health. Additionally, by adding unreliable characters and narrators, the audience grapples with selecting who they can truly trust in the story.5

The first time I watched “The Truman Show”—although more subtle than “Psycho”—it twisted my mind not only during viewing but also after. In classic psychological thrillers, the audience elects who they can trust, and in “The Truman Show,” the main character, Truman, is going through this same process. Sifting through individuals in his town to try and understand the universe he inhabits, Truman desperately searches for who can deliver the true story of where he is.

This example of a psychological thriller creates an unreliable narrator and places the characters in a familiar yet completely other-worldly setting. Furthermore, it pushes the audience to question the role of media in our own lives, as something Truman show-like is already at play in the world of reality TV.6

Psychological thrillers permit audience members to obtain a bird’s eye view of the thriller, causing one to guess how and why the character makes certain choices.7 The pressure between what the characters know and what the audience knows drives our curiosity about what will happen next and allows watchers to use their imagination. Out of our own desire to be in control and all-knowing, we as the audience love to predict how our favorite and least favorite characters will behave. ■

5 Ibid.

6 Ben, Ross, “‘The Truman Show’ and the Pervasive Nature of Media: Why Jim Carreys Classic Says a Lot about TV,” Hollywood Insider, 2021.

7 Devon, Frye, “Why Do We Love Psychological Thrillers?” Psychology Today, 2021.

Instead of disturbing its viewers through individual actions, the movie sends shock through the audience’s veins by revealing why the characters act a certain way.

“

Bravery in Ballrooms

The impact of “Paris is Burning” on the world of fashion and the LGBTQ+ community

Written by Phia Pietan, Contributing Writer Illustrated by Lola Crowley, Staff Illustrator and Designer

Paris is Burning” is a profound film encapsulating many historical aspects of American culture in the ‘80s. The film engages with the Queer culture of the era by showcasing “Ballrooms,” pageantlike events that focused on style and confidence.

The ballrooms were competitions with multiple categories, from “executive realness” to “femme realness.” The judges, experienced drag queens who ranked highly in various “houses,” would rank the participants based on their outfits, ability to captivate the audience and dedication to their category. “Paris is Burning” brings these historical moments to the screen, showing the world how fashion and performance pushed gender norms.

who screen, One the point,

The queens’ success at the balls depended on having the most extravagant costumes, so innovative fashion design was crucial. Many performers could not access designer clothes, so they learned to make their own costumes. One of the performers, Dorian Corey, created stunning sequined dresses inspired by Las Vegas showgirls. At one point, she designed a 30-by-40-foot feather cape that she featured on the ballroom runway.1 Corey paired the piece with a colorful sequin dress and matching hat.

The competition challenged local designers to put a personal spin on the popular couture of the decade. Another queen, Pepper LaBeija was notorious for her elaborate high fashion looks. Her costumes reflected ‘80s style with large abstract silhouettes, metallic fabrics and over-thetop accessories such as hats, gloves and sunglasses.2 Arguably, LaBeija’s most famous outfit was a magnificent metallic dress that incorporated glimmering gold textures and featured comically large gold circular sleeves. The outfit was complete with a fabulous feather hat and long black gloves.

1 K. Austin Collins, “May/June 2022 Cover Story: The Mystery Of The Mummy In The Drag Queen’s Closet,” In Magazine, May 2, 2022.

2 “History: Royal House of Labeija,” History | Royal House of LaBeija, accessed Oct. 16, 2022.

Other categories, such as “Town and Country” or “Executive Realness,” showcased a traditionally masculine take on formal wear. These categories are interesting not only because of their variation in style but also because of their cultural implications. The outfits were heavily influenced by Polo Ralph Lauren—the inspiration helped the participants achieve the “preppy” look of the ‘80s, a trend still prevalent

today.

thing that, outside the ballrooms, would not be realistic for the Queer and Black communities. The balls were most popular when discrimination against the LGBTQ+ community was at a high because of the AIDS epidemic.3 Openly Queer people, especially Black Queer people, were excluded from jobs and social groups; the role playing within the balls helped the participants gain some power back by mocking what society sees as a powerful and dominant man.

Ballroom scenes created a safe environment for Queer Black men to explore many identities and express themselves through fashion and dance. In the film, when queen Brooke Xtravaganza amusingly sings, “I am what I am, I am my own special creation,” she captures the message of “Paris is Burning,” which is the power of expression to liberate.

The film highlights the bravery of the ballroom community during the height of the AIDS crisis, when stereotypes about Queer people were the most aggressive. Many individuals in the community claimed the space saved their lives. “Paris is Burning” shows how important it is to have spaces where marginalized groups are safe, loved and praised.

These categories provided an opportunity for the participants to express their style while also playing into a stereotype about preppy white men, who are privileged to be inherently powerful and confident in society. Most of the contestants were Queer Black men, so the show included a bit of mockery towards the elitist lifestyle of white affluent men, imitating an attitude of self-assurance and arrogance through the cable knit cardigans and knee-high equestrian boots.

The queens in this category exuded nonchalant energy that portrayed some detachment from reality, some-

“Paris is Burning” is a huge milestone in the evolution of fashion letting go of its strict gender binaries. The Harlem drag queens featured in the film convey resilience by pursuing their passions and being unapologetically themselves. The bravery displayed in “Paris is Burning” can be a comfort to young Queer people around the world when they don’t feel accepted—they will learn through the perspective of queens like LaBeija or Corey that there is nothing more liberating than letting go of the weight of caring about others’ opinions and living a life solely revolving around being authentically you.

■

3 Katrina Kubicek et al., “‘It’s like Our Own Little World’: Resilience as a Factor in Participating in the Ballroom Community Subculture,” AIDS and behavior (U.S. National Library of Medicine, May 2013),

AN ENDLESS DREAM OR RECURRING NIGHTMARE?

Five unconventional ways to stop feeling stuck in time

Written by Kate Reuscher, Contributing Writer Graphic by Quinn Ruzicka, Contributing Illustrator and Designer

It’s 9:00 p.m. and the growing to-do list you wrote is the only thing you’ve actually written today. Your bed is now a trap, and while you can’t say you’ve written your essay, you can say how the entire new season of “The Bachelor” ends. You know in the morning your alarm will be a scary reminder of another day with another task, and you wonder if you’ll actually start to see your to-do list disappear— just like your motivation did.

Waiting for life to happen while we watch it pass by sucks. We’ve all likely felt ourselves in a funk before, but maybe this time it is harder to shake. If you are in an unshakable funk now, here’s a few ways that might help you pull yourself out of it.

Text your friends back.

Pick up your phone for actual human interaction! Sure, maybe you have been on it for hours already, watching every TikTok possible, but that’s not helping pull you out of the funk like friends will. If there’s one thing friends will respond to, it’s a proposal for food and genuine conversation, so it’s a double win for you in that case.

Imagine your ten-year-old self watching you.

It may sound like a weird strategy to get out of bed, but sometimes the thought of your tiny face looking up at you is just unnerving enough to motivate you. I know a ten-yearold me, with dreams to be a doctor or singer by now, would hate knowing if I was a student with five missing assignments. For her sake, I will still study.

Imagine your seventy-year-old self watching you.

Bear with me, I know it’s a lot of imagination. At seventy, you have experienced the most you think you could have in all your decades of life… or have you? If you don’t pull yourself out of the funk now, consider that older you who might be disappointed in the time wasted during your most freeing years.

Make a Pinterest travel board.

Your bed always seems comfy until you’re suddenly looking at gorgeous lounge chairs poolside in Bali. Planning a perfect escape from the monotony of your current life is motivation in itself, and it will help you get out of bed—that vacation won’t pay for itself!

Walk until you don’t recognize where you are.

Now this may sound scary, but you may never realize that you barely leave a one mile radius until you discover somewhere new on foot. You may find a new study spot or a fresh perspective on your walk, and the freedom you find while walking is just as liberating.

However you choose to pull yourself out of the funk and take on the world again doesn’t matter; whether it’s transporting to your past or future self, opening old messages from your friends or getting lost while you browse the perfect towns of Switzerland, the only person who can pull you out of a funk is yourself. Treat yourself to a new scenery other than the pile of blankets you’re tucked under, redefine your mindset and find ways that your responsibilities can become refreshing and enjoyable again. ■

GLITCH

Directed by Elise Wilson, Editorial Director | Assisted by Noa Chamberlin, Assistant Arts Editor, Cate Tarr, Arts Staff Writer, Cassidy Chemer, Editorial Staff and Molly Ford, Editorial Team Member | Styled by Jane Houseal, Fashion Editor | Modeled by Jane Houseal, Fashion Editor, Emma Gray and Mars Thornsen | Makeup by Mara Hansen | Photographed by Hunter Kiehl, Photography Director and Bela Orzechowski, Staff Photographer | Additional Editing by Jessica Tenenbaum, Creative Director

HIGH TECH

The genre, the aesthetic and the movement behind cyberpunk

Written by Sam Downey, Arts Staff Writer Illustrated by Filip Jawdosiuk, Staff Illustrator and Designer

You know it when you see it: dark, neon-lit city slums, cyborgs and holograms, body modifications and black-market technologies, looming oppressors and loner antiheroes. Futuristic tech and age-old social problems. This isn’t just any old science fiction; this is cyberpunk.

In the 60s and 70s, science fiction authors grew disillusioned with the hopeful, utopian tone that much of the genre took up until that point.1 Instead, the emerging subgenre of cyberpunk allowed them to imagine gritty, dystopian futures in which to examine contemporary social issues such as drug use, class inequality and the sexual revolution.2

Despite differences in character, setting and conflicts, cyberpunk stories shared something essential in common: they explored the ramifications of modern technology being used in “realistic” ways given the ills of society the authors saw before them.3 Cyberpunk asks how we will use the possibilities opened up by new technologies to perpetuate or break out of existing cycles of violence, oppression and capitalistic greed.

Early iconic examples of cyberpunk include “Neuromancer” and “Blade Runner” as well as more modern media such as “The Matrix” series and games such as “Cyberpunk 2077” and “Stray.”4 Main characters of cyberpunk stories are usually rebels in some way, often hackers or criminals fighting for individuality against oppressive control.5

1 Lewis Shiner, “Confessions of an Ex-Cyberpunk,” New York Times, 1991.

2 Ibid.

3 Rupendra Brahambhatt, “What is cyberpunk — and are we already living in it?”, ZME Science, 2022.

4 Nick Ravo and Eric Nash, “THE EVOLUTION OF CYBERPUNK,” New York Times, 1993.

5 Rupendra Brahambhatt, “What is cyberpunk — and are we already living in it?”, ZME Science, 2022.

However, few early cyberpunk stories showcased strong female characters, since at the time even feminist sci-fi was avoidant of “hard sciences” such as computer science or engineering.6

Gradually, feminist sci-fi began to explore cyberpunk themes, specifically body modification and human-computer interfacing, spurred by the 1985 publication of Donna Haraway’s “A Cyborg Manifesto.”7 In this essay, Haraway imagines the cyborg as a theoretical model with which to think about composite, multiply-positioned identities.8 She encourages her readers to embrace contradictions and shift away from politics of unity (which assume a group must be perfectly homogeneous to share political goals).9

This thinking aligns with a school of thought called transhumanism, which is often associated with cyberpunk. At its core, transhumanism is about innovating past human nature using technology.10 Theoretically, it is interested in deconstructing boundaries of the self versus the other, man versus machine, human versus inhuman. Transhumanism allows stories to explore questions of identity: How are you different from a clone of yourself? At what point is artificial intelligence sentient? When does a human with technological implants become a cyborg, or altogether inhuman?

When applied to actual scientific policy, however, it runs the risk of echoing eugenicist thought—not helped by the fact that many early transhumanists were themselves eugenicists and even Nazis.11 The key difference lies in why

6 Karen Cadora, “Feminist Cyberpunk,” Science Fiction Studies, 1995.

7 Ibid.

8 Donna Haraway, “A Cyborg Manifesto,” The Socialist Review, 1985.

9 Ibid.

10 Rupendra Brahambhatt, “What is cyberpunk — and are we already living in it?”, ZME Science, 2022.

11 Philosphytube, “Transhumanism,” YouTube,

human nature is being transcended— is it in the pursuit of some “utopian” society, or is it about identity and agency? Are the changes mandatory or autonomous?

By delving into the transgression of boundaries, cyberpunk at its best allows for an intersectional analysis of social issues in the context of speculative fiction. However, pop culture is also inundated with examples of the shortcomings of the genre.

While the Matrix series is wildly popular, and perhaps the best-known example of cyberpunk to the general public today, it also reflects deep problems within popular science fiction, such as Asian cultures, objects and practices used as aesthetics and backdrops for white characters.12 The films’ directors, the Wachowskis, have also been criticized for wearing dreadlocks and possibly even stealing the original idea for the series from a Black author.13

Another, more recent example is the game Cyberpunk 2077, which was released in 2020 after a decade of hype only to be considered one of the biggest disasters in video game history.14

The game was full of glitches that made it virtually unplayable, which were blamed on overworked staff and corporate pressure (ironic in a game that draws so heavily on cyberpunk’s anti-capitalist themes).15

One such glitch showed the wrong genitals when nude characters looked into mirrors.16 Customizable genitalia 2022.

12 Theadora Walsh, “Astria Suparak’s ‘Virtually Asian’ Analyzes Sci-Fi to Argue for Less Racist Futures”, KQED, 2021.

13 Andre Merodeadora, “The Problem With Sense8,” Medium, 2017.

14 Mike Isaac and Kellen Browning, “Cyberpunk 2077 Was Supposed to Be the Biggest Video Game of the Year. What Happened?”, New York Times, 2020.

15 Ibid.

16 Ugla Stefanía Kristjönudóttir Jónsdóttir, “Choosing your character’s genitals might seem like a gaming step forward – but it’s not always

, LOW LIFE

selection was one of the marketing points of the game (which also includes a main trans character), so this glitch is especially unfortunate.17 Transgender fans already had a complicated relationship with cyberpunk: the transhumanist philosophy resonates with many who, like the Wachowskis themselves, see their own experiences reflected in such narratives.18 Arguments about human augmentation and alteration often share language with discourse about medical transition, and narratives by and about trans people continue to explore this in greater depth.19

Most cyberpunk elements have been incorporated into mainstream sci-fi by now, and rarely appear as a unified subgenre. However, the iconic aesthetics, political narratives and complicated philosophy found in cyberpunk continue to have relevance to social issues today and into the future—whatever that future may look like.

■

an easy decision,” Metro, 2020.

17 Ibid.

18 Emily St. James, “The Matrix is a ‘trans metaphor’, Lilly Wachowski says,” Vox, 2020.

19 Caitlin Hobbs, “18 of the Best Trans Fantasy and Sc-Fi Books,” Book Riot, 2021.

By delving into the transgression of boundaries, cyberpunk at its best allows for an intersectional analysis of social issues in the context of speculative fiction.

ESCAPISM: GOOD OR BAD?

Written by Kaylie Fan, Contributing Writer | Photographed by Sidney Peterson, Staff Photographer | Modeled by Malina Doang | Makeup and styled by Sidney Petersen, Staff Photographer

When we think of attending fan-centered parks and events such as Universal Studios or cosplay conventions—or even just being a fan of a certain franchise or person—it is perceived as a common interest. There is, however, a certain line fans may cross when these interests turn into a form of escapism, which is often used to feel like a part of something that is otherwise unattainable. Escapism can be used as a way to avoid confrontation with the truth in your life and becomes a temporary distraction that cannot mirror reality.

On the other hand, escapism can also provide a sense of hope, strength and act as a coping mechanism against any difficulties one may encounter in their life.

Escapism can take up as little or as much of someone’s life as they choose. Watching TV shows and movies, for example, are usually seen as a popular and common hobby, or a way to unwind after getting home from a long day. When this hobby starts to expand into hyperfixation through a character or the plot, however, is when escapism in cinema and entertainment has become a way to distract oneself from reality.

One of the most popular ways people aim to feel connected to an alternate reality is cosplay. Cosplay was popularized in Japan in the 1990s, spreading its fame into other parts of Asia and in the U.S. It is a performance by fans, in which they dress up as a character from a certain show, movie, book or comic. It is a tool fans use to bring a character to life and have freedom with their own interpretation. There is a sense of community established within these conventions because participants interact with others while forming connections based on a common interest.

Cosplaying is not only restricted to cosplay conventions, though. People often cosplay outside of these events in their own homes, on social media or in public. When people cosplay in their everyday lives is when a fan’s form of escapism starts to bleed into their reality, blurring the lines. Take TikTok influencer F.ukuro, for example.1 This creator cosplays characters such as Mitsuri from “Demon Slayer’’ and Eijiro from “My Hero Academia.” She even collaborates with another influencer known as Ayoitslani to create a relationship between their characters. Gaining over eight million followers, F.ukuro has been able to take this work and make it a living.

Escapism isn’t just wearing a costume. On TikTok, what is referred to as “reality shifting” has begun to rise in popular1 Melody Day, “Top Cosplay Influencers on Tiktok,” Net Influencer, March 15, 2022

ity. This technique is similar to manifesting an action; before falling asleep, people write down the world they want to enter, then go to sleep and allegedly wake up in an alternative reality.2 When asked why they liked to shift, an interviewee for Insider said, “people were saying you could create the perfect reality and live there.”3 It is a way people can distract themselves from difficulties they are dealing with in their life and enter a mind space that allows them to have freedom and control of where their life goes.

Wanting to feel connected to a cinematic experience can be done in simpler ways as well. For example, Universal Studios is made up of numerous attractions based on franchises such as “Harry Potter” and “Transformers.” Going to these parks is a subtle way to experience that fictional world. Humans have a natural craving for what they can’t attain, and these types of attractions give them a sense of closeness to a false world. According to Arthur Levine, a writer for Vox, “They provide an escape from the mundane and stir emotions, but unlike movies, television, and other forms of entertainment, they require active participation and are best experienced in the company of others.”4

Is there a point where this disconnect with reality goes too far? Maybe.5 But everyone should have the freedom to pursue a form of escapism, no matter how intense or subtle, as long as it is not harmful to themselves or to others. While escapism can have some negative consequences, such as allowing people to not address the difficult things in their life and ignore the real world, it can also be incredibly healing for some people, and in many ways, reconnect them with reality and provide them with the ability to face their issues with ease of mind.

■

2 Ibid.

3 Charlotte Colombo, “‘Reality shifting’ where users say they’re transported to another life has exploded on TikTok, but former shifters say it harmed their mental health,” Insider, Jan. 26, 2022

4 Arthur Levine, “The Story of Amusement Parks is the Story of America,” Vox, Aug. 23, 2022

5 Kat Nicholls, “Is Escapism Good for Your Mental Health?” Happiful, June 8, 2022

How fans use escapism to both distract themselves from reality and heal from it

The Club Kids: drugs, fashion, partying and murder

Written by Maya Greenberg, New Members Director | Graphics by Nina Goyette, Staff Illustrator and Designer

Long before today’s generation of TikTokers and YouTubers, a group of influencers were taking New York’s underground club scene by storm: the Club Kids, a counter-culture group that rose to prominence in the 1980s and ’90s for their brazen outfits, drug usage and parties.

To the horror of much of middle-America, The Club Kids were international trend setters.1 They would shock the audiences of popular talk shows with their ostentatious outfits, gender fluidity and outrageous lifestyles. The Club Kids promoted their desire to break gender norms and rebel against rigid fashion trends. In his Village Voice article in which he coined the phrase “Club Kids,” journalist Michael Musto said they “are terminally superficial, have dubious aesthetic values, and are master manipulators, exploiters, and, thank God, partiers.”2

While names like Rupaul, James St. James, Bjork and Chloe Sevigny stand out today, the Club Kids scene made a name for itself through the rise of club

promoter Michael Alig.3 After Andy Warhol’s death in 1987 left a vacuum in the New York club scene, Indiana native Michael Alig took it as an opportunity to reshape the underground. Working alongside infamous club owner Peter Gatien, Alig threw exclusive parties in New York’s biggest clubs and pop up extravaganzas in public businesses and subways. The attendees became icons for their fashion and excessive lifestyle and The Club Kids became symbols for self-acceptance and artistic progression.4

While heavy drug use and alcohol helped to define The Club Kids and their parties, it exceedingly spiraled out of control. Alig would often purchase narcotics from follower and fellow Club Kid, Andre “Angel” Melendez.5 On Mar. 17, 1996, in the midst of a drug induced bender, Melendez lost his life at the hands of Alig and Robert “Freeze”

3 Ibid.

4 Schmidt Rees Hannah, “Party Monster-The History of the Club Kids,” Perspex, Feb. 16, 2019.

5 Urquhart Alaina (Host), “Episode 359: The Club Kid/Party Monster Murder,” Morbid Podcast, Aug. 31, 2022.

Riggs.6 As Angel’s brother relentlessly searched for him and begged for assistance, police turned a blind eye while Alig continued to throw his parties.7 New York police let down the Club Kid community, making it clear that they were apathetic to the death of a young gay man.

After the murder of Melendez and a city wide crackdown by mayor Rudy Giuliani, the reign of The Club Kids began to dwindle, leaving their legacy as a dichotomy.8 One half of history proves them to be artistic visionaries, breaking gender roles and inspiring trends. The other half, however, shows them to be hedonistic and self-serving individuals, whose only real goal was to keep the party going. ■

6 Schmidt Rees Hannah, “Party Monster-The History of the Club Kids,” Perspex, Feb. 16, 2019.

7 Urquhart Alaina (Host), “Episode 359: The Club Kid/Party Monster Murder,” Morbid Podcast, Aug. 31, 2022.

8 Schmidt Rees Hannah, “Party Monster-The History of the Club Kids,” Perspex, Feb. 16, 2019.

1 Flynn Sheila, “They ruled New York City nightlife in the ‘80s and ‘90s with glitter, glamor and outrageous antics before a grisly killing spelled their downfall - so where are the Club Kids now?” Daily Mail, Sept. 4, 2017.

Kids

2 Davies Erica, “KIDS IN THE HALL Secrets revealed of the ‘club kids’ who dominated the 1990s New York City party scene,” The U.S. Sun,

Jan. 23, 2020.

GOING OFF SCRIPT

Rewriting narratives surrounding sex can lead to (much) more pleasure

Written by Jane Houseal, Fashion Editor | Photographed by Ben Yeiser, Staff Photographer Makeup by Mara Hansen, Makeup Artist and Contributing Writer | Modeled by Jayda Bessel

Humans are driven by their desire for pleasure in one way or another. People seek out decadent foods, good music and items or activities that release endorphins, the “happiness hormone.”1 Sex is another one of these pleasureproducing activities; fulfilling sex can release endorphins and oxytocin, a hormone that helps individuals bond with others.2 Yet, of those who report being sexually active, too many say they are having sex but receiving little to no pleasure.3

Every person is entitled to experience pleasure. However, there are many bar riers in place that prevent people from fully connecting with and celebrat ing their unique sexuality. Narratives around sex often revolve around het erosexual men, leaving important iden tities out of the conversation.4

Sexual scripts are part of what keeps these harmful narratives in place. Sex ual scripts are learned norms about sex and sexuality that individuals in ternalize and apply to their own life.5 One common sexual script is that sex ends when a man finishes. This idea decreases opportunities for pleasure for the other party and prioritizes cis gender male pleasure. While various factors cause the Orgasm Gap—the disparity of orgasms between hetero sexual men and women—sexual scripts that ignore female pleasure are one of the most prominent of them.6

Sexual scripts also disproportionately impact queer people and people with disabilities. Heteronormative sexual scripts assert that sexual acts can only be defined as sex if they include pen etration, something not all queer sex includes.7 This same rhetoric can im pact people with disabilities. Getting creative in the bedroom by using sex toys and other assistive devices can improve sex, but these ideas aren’t in

1 Phaisit Trakulkongsmut, “8 key factors behind the production of happiness hormones,” Sami tivej, June 11, 2020.

2 Stephanie Watson, “Oxytocin: The love hor mone,” Harvard Health Publishing, June 20, 2021.

3 “National Coalition for Sexual Health,” National Coalition for Sexual Health, Dec. 15, 2021.

4 Dr Katherine Hertlein, “Sexual Scripts,” Blue heart, Dec. 23, 2021.

5 Sylivia Karen Rutagumirwa and Ajay Bailey, “‘The Heart Desires but the Body Refuses’: Sexual Scripts, Older Men’s Perceptions of Sexuality, and Implications for Their Mental and Sexual Health,” Sex Roles 78, no. 9-10 (September 2017): pp. 653-668.

6 Alice Broster, “What is the Orgasm Gap?” Forbes, July 31, 2020.

7 Janelle M. Pham, “The Limits of Heteronorma tive Sexual Scripting: College Student Develop ment of Individual Sexual Scripts and Descrip tions of Lesbian Sexual Behavior,: Frontiers, June 20, 2016.

cluded in traditional scripts. Expand ing what we define as sex and how sex itself plays out can provide more opportunities for people to reach new levels of sexual pleasure.

Pleasure is much more expansive than we often recognize. Challenging norms and redefining sex so it includes every one are the first steps in making plea sure more accessible, but it is not the only step. It is also important to take away some of the shame associated with different pathways to pleasure.

Every individual has their own distinct sexuality with unique turn-ons, kinks, relationship preferences and so on. Be cause everybody’s sexuality is differ ent, so is the way to receive pleasure. Shame around sex runs rampant and can discourage people from asking for what they really want.

Since asking for new things can be so intimidating, try bringing it up to your partner/partners outside the bedroom. This takes away some of the pressure for everyone involved. Exploring your body and desires on your own is also a great way to discover what you want and build the confidence to ask for it. Everyone may not like what you like, and that’s okay, but being able to com municate what makes you feel good can lead to so much more enjoyment.

Unlearning sexual scripts, what we know to be true about sex, is no easy feat. Take your time and be gentle with yourself. Pleasure looks different for everyone; it does not always end in an orgasm, it does not always include penetrative sex and it may not even in volve partners. Once you open yourself to changing your own narratives, you open up a new set of possibilities. ■

*Prop sex toys were provided by Sex Out Loud, UW-Madison’s peer to peer sexual health resource

Vibrant Visions

Moda’s October Trend Report

Written by Jane Houseal, Fashion Editor and Erin Galioto, Fashion Editorial Director

When cold weather rolls around, we often find ourselves in a fashion rut. The typical love for picking out outfits is replaced by wanting to dress comfortably and in a way that will draw little attention. In contrast, Halloween is the one holiday where we all have an excuse to dress as bold and eccentric as we want—there’s no reason not to implement a Halloween frame of mind into our everyday lives! We can dress up and represent the most playful aspects of ourselves while helping to ward away the unpleasant feelings that can come with dreary weather. This month’s trend report includes eye-catching pieces and encourages creating a personal style that excites us and inspires those around us.

Loud Colorway Sneaker

Onitsuka Tiger - $110

Whether it’s the cherished Air-Force 1’s or a classic Superga, we all have a pair of over-loved white sneakers that have seen some sh*t. Before you pull out the baking soda and throw them in the wash for the third time, consider putting the white away for the season and opt for a new hue that won’t require so much maintenance. Buying a shoe that is not a goes-with-everything color may seem daunting, but if you opt for a pair that fits within the color scheme of most pieces in your wardrobe, they will easily become your new go-to. Onitsuka Tiger makes sneakers in many beautiful colorways that are so clean, yet so cool and a great option for the colorful

The Gym Short

ThredUP - $14.99 we a pair a

great sneaker trend.

The Bolero

SSENSE - $80

with latest tall or

Retro athletic wear is back, but not in the way you’d expect. Many niche fashion influencers and it-girls like Bella Hadid are having fun playing with unconventional pairings. The latest we love is ‘70s style gym shorts paired with tall leather boots or even high heels with scrunched socks. Seeing pieces associated with exercise styled very femininely catches the eye and instantly looks cool. If you don’t already have a pair in your closet, you can find a great variety secondhand or on resale apps like these fresh blue Adidas three-stripe shorts from ThredUP.

Boleros, also called shrugs, are a modern and essential transitional wardrobe piece for this season. Don’t pack away your summer clothes just yet; this garment is worn to cover your arms and is perfect for pairing with sleeveless tops for the autumn/winter season. This bolero by NoDress features bright yellow lace sleeves that wrap around the arm and will instantly bring extra interest to any ‘fit. Styling hack: wear your shrug top around your neck to double as an indie-sleaze skinny scarf moment!

The Parachute Skirt

Source Unknown - $112

Some pieces just make whatever outfit you are wearing look so cool—a parachute skirt does exactly that. Whether you throw on a sweatshirt and chunky sneakers or go all out with layering and accessories, you’ll have a bomb outfit to wear out. Parachute skirts often include cord detailing, cargo pockets and unique ruching—a mix of athletic and feminine elements in one. Try this colorful option from Source Unknown or go for a neutral skirt that is easy to find on eBay and Depop.

Free People - $128

Live out your childhood ballerina dreams this fall and pick up a pair of ballet flats. This time around, ballet flats are not just a pulled-together preppy shoe option—go for a more punk look, like this pair from Free People that features funky silver hardware. You can also lean into the girlyness of ballet flats and pick up a block-heeled pair with bows. Whatever your style, ballet flats are the perfect shoe to make your outfit

more interesting.

The Tie

Tora Lily - $50

After the “that girl aesthetic” stole the blazer and Miu Miu cut khaki trousers into a micro mini skirt, the necktie is next on the hit-list for finance-bro turned high fashion trend. The unique juxtaposition of formal wear worn with streetwear can even be extended by pairing a tie with lingerie. This super unique photo-printed tie by UK designer Tora Lily would look perfect tied loosely over a black slip dress or wrapped around the neck like a scarf over a baggy band tee.

Leather Motorcycle Jacket

Zara - $89.90

Vintage leather motorcycle jackets are back and better than ever. No longer just for bikers, celebrities such as Hailey Bieber and Kylie Jenner have been rocking them.1 These motorcycle jackets are not the oversized black ones you may see on the road, but sleek leather jackets with color, detailed silver hardware and often fun colors and logos. Style it with parachute pants, jeans or even a mini skirt for the perfect casual yet badass outfit. If you’re looking for a vintage piece, try searching for “Wilson Leather’’ on resale sites, or try this color blocked option from Zara. Orin Carlin, “The motorcycle jacket has come roaring back into fashion,” Hello Magazine, Aug. 9, 2022.

them.

The Cord Necklace

With Jean - $109

Brooke Callahan - $76

Brooke Callahan - $68

‘90s cord necklaces are having a moment and we are here for it. The necklaces typically have one stand-out pendant such as a heart or flower. We particularly love the silver or glass pendants. These pieces are so versatile, they can be worn with girly outfits or with a grunge outfit inspired by your favorite ‘90s celebrities. For a piece that goes with anything, try the With Love necklace by With Jean. If you want to opt for something more colorful check out designer Brooke Callahan’s handmade jewelry. ■

2

SECOND SKIN

Seminude trends use our bodies as a canvas

By Ava McNarney, Assistant Fashion Editor Illustrated by Lily Dawson, Contributing Illustrator and Designer

This year’s New York Fashion Week (NYFW) designers took the idea “less is more” very seriously. Some of the most striking looks? Prabal Gurung’s scarflike garment positioned to expose model Ella Emhoff ’s bare breasts, Collina Strada’s pink gown held up by wires to daringly free the nipple and Puppets & Puppets’ barely-there butterfly pasties.1

Just miles away, a catwalk represented some of the more modest voices in the high-fashion world. America’s Next Top Model judge, Nole Marin, hosted “Haute And Holy” during NYFW to showcase modest looks in a dazzling variety of blinding tones and sequin fabrics.2 The show was produced with Muslim and Jewish faiths in mind to create space for important conversations on fashion’s relationship with culture and religion.

While the extreme looks featured at NYFW and “Haute & Holy” couldn’t have appeared more different at surface level, they both brought our attention to one of the hottest debates in fashion: how much skin is appropriate to show? Events like these allow designers to explore the unconventional and the disapproved, inspiring onlookers to challenge dated ideas themselves.

Modern forms of seminudity, namely mesh, have found a middle ground between covered and not that is perfect for stylistic experimentation. We can use mesh to cover our bodies with artwork without taking away from the beauty of our natural form. It’s a sec-

1 Nadine DeNinno, “Skin as In Nudity Takes Over NYFW 2022 as Top Trend,” New York Post, Sept. 15, 2022.

“The Skinny On an Anti-Nude Catwalk During New York Fashion Week,” AMNY, Sept. 25, 2022.

ond skin with any layer of thickness the wearer desires; it can highlight, obscure and serve as a vessel for your favorite designs all at once. Everyone is wearing it—Dua Lipa and Barbie Ferreira are a couple of stars we’ve noticed regularly including mesh in their outfits.3

Lipa’s barely-there 27th birthday look dropped jaws. 4 She wore gothic bra inserts and a miniskirt with her sheer black bodysuit to keep her outfit Instagrammable, but still left little to the imagination.

Gaultier’s influence on the role of nudity in fashion doesn’t stop with mesh; various replicas of his “naked dress” printed with life-size nudes have stolen the spotlight at recent shows.6 The designer’s FW22 collab with Y/Project uses lines and shadows to manipulate digital renderings of the female form. These full-length dresses are delightfully perplexing and confront fashion’s repression of nudity without revealing anything more than the arms and shoulders.

Our bare skin is beautiful—don’t let the popularity of other semi-coverage options stop you from showing it off. Whether you choose to go full-on Regina George and DIY a one-of-a-kind piece or pull a hip-baring skirt out of your closet, incorporating cutouts into your looks is a subtly sexy way to reveal the beauty that lies beneath.

‘90s mesh pioneer Jean Paul Gaultier—a favorite of stars like Lipa—remains an elusive yet alluring influence in today’s fashion world. With recent runway collections echoing his work and 2022’s biggest it-girls regularly donning his pieces, legendary designer JPG doesn’t show any signs of slowing down.5

3 Alice Cary, “Haute Mesh Is Back & Here’s How To Wear It,” Vogue, Feb. 2, 2022.

4 Georgia Brown, “Dua Lipa Is a Gothic Goddess In Incredibly Risqué Micro Dress,” Hello Magazine, Aug. 24, 2022.

5 Alice Cary, “Haute Mesh Is Back & Here’s How To Wear It,” Vogue, Feb. 2, 2022.

From the modest to the exhibitionist, everyone can explore fashion as a second skin. The flexibility of seminude cuts and fabrics allows us to turn our skin into a captivating illusion and warp perceptions of what’s there and what’s not. These pieces invalidate the untrue and misogynistic idea that “sluts” show a lot and “prudes” show a little; they use our bodies as an artistic form of cultural and personal expression. ■

6 Zoe Kendall, “The New Naked Dress Is Sexy, Confusing, and Here To Stay,” i-D, Mar. 17, 2022.

It’s a second skin with any layer of thickness the wearer desires; it can highlight, obscure and serve as a vessel for your favorite designs all at once.

1

Surrealism: The Art of Imagination

Written by Mara Hansen, Contributing Writer

Bizarre, dream-like, unnerving; all words that have been used to describe art from one of the most influential cultural movements of all time: surrealism. This movement captivated artists and writers from around the world and drew from a multitude of inspirations. The first of which was the Dada movement, often cited as the predecessor of surrealism. The Dada movement was characterized by the use of absurdity and satire to criticize the ruling elite and the establishment whom Dadaists viewed as responsible for the horrors of WWI. The surrealist movement similarly drew inspiration from the chaos and tragedy of WWI. Surrealist art served as an avenue through which to release the complex emotions brought on by the instability and uncertainty of the time. The Surrealists also drew inspiration from the psychological theories of Sigmund Freud in their attempts to explore dreams and the unconscious as sources of a deeper truth.1

Although the work of each surrealist artist was unique, the surrealism movement can be characterized by a handful of techniques and visual elements which make up its identity. Many surrealist works fell into two categories, figurative and abstract.2 Figurative surrealists presented recognizable objects in an irrational manner to create a dream-like quality to their work. Salvador Dalí’s work “The Persistence of Memory”is perhaps the most famous example of figurative surrealism. The irrational presentation of melting clocks which are predominantly featured in the foreground is juxtaposed with the recognizable cliffs of Catalonia in the background. This strange juxtaposition creates a sense of being in an alternate reality or a hallucination.

“These Artists Thrived on Dreams - Discover Their Surreal World,” ThoughtCo, 2011.

2 Ibid.

In contrast to figurative surrealism, abstract surrealism completely defies expectations and breaks from reality. The work of abstract surrealists is characterized by their use of unidentifiable shapes and forms which have no concrete basis in reality. Some abstract surrealists made use of a technique called “automatism” where the artists would go into a sort of trance and let their hand be guided by their subconscious to unleash hidden ideas from their imagination.3 “Harlequin’s Carnival” by Juan Miró is an excellent example of abstract surrealism created through automatism. This captivating piece was created by Miró in a trance-like state induced by starvation. The piece features brightly colored biomorphic shapes which seem to dance on the canvas.4

The surrealism movement was unique in both the scope and longevity of its impact. Although the movement originated in Paris, it quickly spread outside Europe and became a global movement of artists, writers and philosophers.5 Surrealism continues to influence art today. Famous images such as Dalí’s melting clocks have become a familiar piece of our cultural iconography; showing up on stickers or tote bags of those unacquainted with the surrealism movement. High profile designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Alexander McQueen have taken inspiration from surrealism by making the movement a key part of their brand identity in campy accessories and avant-garde pieces.6

Although the impact of surrealism is undeniable, we must recognize the problematic aspects as well. Female artists such as Dorothea Tanning and Leonora Carrington were excluded from the movement.7 The female body was frequently objectified and fetishized by many surrealists, most notably by the revered Salvador Dalí. The inspiration taken by surrealists from Sigmund Freud also requires scrutiny due to the offensive and sexist nature of some of Freud’s most infamous ideas. In order to reckon with the disturbing past of surrealism, we may keep with the ethos behind the movement and dive deep into our unconscious. In doing so, we may confront our own biases and produce fascinating work which challenges our accepted notions of reality for the better. ■

3 Ibid.

4 “Surrealism Movement Overview,” The Art Story, Dec. 21, 2011.

5 Jon Mann, “How the Surrealist Movement Shaped the Course of Art History,” Artsy, Sept. 23, 2016.

6 Lottie Jackson, “FASHION & SURREALISM a FEMINIST’S WORST NIGHTMARE ,” Lottie Jackson, 2014.

7 The Editors of Encyclopedia Britannica, “Surrealism | Definition, Artists, & Facts,” Encyclopædia Britannica, Nov. 5, 2018.

A dive into the artistic movement inspired by dreams and the subconscious

Salvador Dalí, "The Persistence of Memory", 1931

Juan Miró, "The Harlequin's Carnival", 1924