Adventure Afrika Issue 1

4x4 | Camping | Lifestyle

The Kalahari experience

PLUS n Botswana in the rainy season: a crazy adventure

Thundering through the Namaqua flowers

n SUV or Bakkie: how do you choose? n KIA Sorento in Limpopo OCTOBER 2020 R49.00 (INCL. VAT)

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Other countries R49.95 (tax excl.)

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Website: www.4x4afrika.com | Instagram: @avontuuradventure_afrika | Facebook: @4x4afrika | Youtube: Adventure Afrika | Email: info@4x4afrika.com

THE PERFECT STORM #FEELTHETHUNDER

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CON TAC T YOUR NEAREST D EALERSH IP.

DON’T WASTE A S I N G L E DAY

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*Different models shown

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FEATURES 40

LOCAL ADVENTURE: Daisies & Dust While the Cape of Storms does her best to deter adventuring, we Thunder right through it, in search of the famous Namaqua daisies.

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EXPEDITIONS: #TeamDefender on the road again Kingsley Holgate puts the new Land Rover Defender through its first long-distance real-life test on South African soil.

REGULARS 8 10 12 56 58 72 74 78 82

Making Headlines Our Community Gears & Gadgets Hobbies: Cooking Hobbies: Photography Camping Sites in South Africa Mountain Passes of South Africa My Ride & I My Four-wheel Partner

FEATURES

COVER FEATURE: Meerkats & Wildtraks Adventure Afrika takes the Ford Ranger Wildtrak to the Kalahari, conquering the famous Red Dune Route.

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LOCAL TRAVEL: In the lap of Limpopo Luxury Is the KIA Sorento up for the challenge we have in mind? We test its capabilities on- and (slightly) off-road in the stunning Mapesu Private Game Reserve, a stone’s throw from Mapungubwe.

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4x4 | Camping | Lifestyle

Head of Content: Justin Jacobs Publisher: Anton Willemse

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Head of Design: Simone Anderson Sales: Julian Little Anton Willemse

ADVENTURE: Bucket List Botswana Bernie Williams embarks on a crazy adventure to Botswana during the rainy season, offering some unique challenges.

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TECHNICAL: SUVs vs Bakkies When it comes to choosing an adventure vehicle South Africans are spoilt for choice.

Angus Boswell takes a look at the pros and cons when having to choose between a SUV or a Bakkie.

Contributors: Angus Boswell Alex Kock Trygve Roberts Veralda Schmidt Bernie Williams Print & Production: Typo Printing Pty Ltd For more information/queries: Editorial: info@4x4afrika.com / justin@4x4afrika.com Advertising Sales: julian@4x4afrika.com Subscriptions: mary@4x4afrika.com Adventure Tours: anton@4x4afrika.com

Published by M&A Media

&A M

M&A MEDIA

20 KLAPPER AVENUE, EDLEEN, KEMPTON PARK, 1618 Directors: Mary Willemse | Anton Willemse Company Reg No: 2020/552870/07

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Sub Editor: Mary Willemse

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Crazy. That’s what we are here at Adventure Afrika. Our industry, our world and many of our lives have been shaken by the global pandemic, but we are South African, and we are a resilient bunch.

It was this stubborn resilience that led to what you are now holding in your hands – our brand new magazine title, promising to bring some of the wildest adventures right into your living room! Adventure Afrika is set to be South Africa’s premium overlanding, camping and 4x4 lifestyle platform aimed at an audience who loves to travel through Southern Africa and beyond; but also enjoy a local adventure within the borders of our beautiful country. Our core content pillars being entertainment, education and inspiration; our articles promise to push boundaries and showcase a world of adventure to you through the mag and digital platforms.

Be sure to follow us on social media and, for a daily dose of adventure news, head over to our website!

Being explorers filled with wanderlust, our bags were packed for an epic adventure to the breathtaking Kalahari the second the inter-provincial travel ban was lifted. We put the latest Ford Ranger Wildtrak through its paces on the Kalahari Red Dune route – a definite must on any adventurer’s to-do list!

Read our cover feature on pages 14 to 26 and check out how we achieved our cover shot in our hobby section, focusing on photography this month (page 58). During the same time, our Cape Town correspondent Angus Boswell stirred up a storm with the latest Ford Ranger Thunder edition in the daisies on his way back from the Tankwa Karoo National Park. The Cape certainly put her best foot forward, looking magnificent right now and the Thunder offers a host of features that you can read about on page 49.

For the perfect weekend getaway in the African bushveld, check out our thoughts on the Mapesu Private Game Reserve on pages 28 to 37. The team at the reserve has recently adapted some of the roads to better suit softroaders, hence the reason we took the KIA Sorento on this trip. Much to our surprise, the Sorento was a lot more capable than what we expected. One of the highlights of the trip was when we tracked the reserve’s rhinos, on foot – indeed an experience we will never forget.

But it’s not all about being out-and-about – we also bring you some news on nifty gear available to the outdoor enthusiast on pages 12 and 13; while padkos queen Veralda Schmidt shares her culinary secrets on page 55.

This is an adventure for all of us, so grab our hand and join us – engage with the team on our social platforms, share your stories about your trips and your trusty four-wheeled partners! Who knows – your story may very well adorn our pages shortly. This is YOUR magazine, after all!

Every adventure starts with a just single footstep, this is your invitation to join us on ours!

Website: www.4x4afrika.com Instagram: @avontuuradventure_afrika Facebook: @4x4afrika Youtube: Adventure Afrika

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Email: info@4x4afrika.com

Photo Credit: Axel Primmer

CONSERVATION

BASED TOURISM

DESTINATION ADVENTURE! CLIPPING MASK PHOTO HERE

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Wellness Spa Restaurant, bar and large swimming pool Large, private, comfortable chalets with splash pools Animal conservation expeditions

Restaurant, bar and large swimming pool

Access to Mapesu Wilderness Camp facilities

Conference capacity for up to 100 people

Safari dome tent rental option

Private 180º views over the stunning bushveld

Modern ablution blocks

MAPESU PRIVATE GAME RESERVE R572 Musina / Pontdrif Road www.mapesu.com

Free WiFi

RESERVATIONS: +27 015 534 7906 +27 083 633 0795 bookings@mapesu.com

Making The battle of the bakkies heats up!

The next few months are going to be very busy with a host of new and updated bakkies making their way to local showroom floors. In South Africa the Toyota Hilux - set to undergo an update in October - is the market leader, in terms of sales, followed closely by the Ford Ranger.

High hopes for the new Hilux Already available in the Australian market, which of course is very similar to ours, here’s what we know about this stalwart so far: Design: A completely redesigned face with a new bold and powerful three-dimensional grille and front bumper treatment significantly increases the pick-up's road presence and strong stature. This effectively reinforces its tough, robust, go-anywhere credentials.

The striking new exterior styling is enhanced by the availability of newly-designed front and rear LED light cluster, black 18” allow wheel design and the addition of three new exterior colours - Emotional Red II, Dark Blue and Oxide Bronze metallic.

Upgraded interior: The model launched Down Under boasts upgraded interior features with a 8" centre console-mounted infotainment touchscreen which adopts mechanical buttons and dials for enhanced operability under all driving conditions. The improved multimedia system features faster software and screen response and incorporates both Apple CarPlay and Android Auto for smartphone integration.

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More Power: The new Hilux powertrain range has been

bolstered by the addition of a more powerful 2.8-litre diesel engine, equipping the Toyota bakkie with highly competitive performance in its segment. This engine now develops 150kW/500Nm and will be available in Extra Cab and Double Cab body styles, with a choice of 6-speed manual or 6-speed automatic transmissions mated to 4-wheel drive.

Creature Comforts: The comfort and driveability of the new Hilux have been enhanced through improvements to the suspension and power steering systems. The suspension benefits from front and rear shock absorber tuning, improved leaf spring design and bushing to combine a smoother ride with reduced impact on steps and holes.

The other players With an updated BT-50 offering from Mazda and the long-awaited new Isuzu D-Max, these two players are making all the right noises to remain competitive.

The Mazda BT-50: The all-new Mazda BT-50 design expresses the unique beauty of Mazda's Kodo-Soul of Motion design theme with power, toughness and utilitarian functionality suited to a pickup truck. The vehicle's driving performance, functionality and safety meet the functional

needs of the wide range of situations in which customers may use a bakkie.

The latest Mazda BT-50 might share the same platform as Isuzu, but this new model also happens to be 79mm shorter than the model it replaces. It is, however, 20mm wider and has a 47mm lower roofline than the previous generation bakkie. That last measurement means the new BT-50 has a lower centre of gravity, for better high-speed stability and emergency avoidance steering dynamics.

Inside the new double cab, reports suggest that the vehicle finally features a reach-adjustable steering wheel and a vastly improved infotainment system. It now features a 9” touchscreen, which is both Apple CarPlay and Android Auto compatible.

Instrumentation transitions from analogue to digital for a more modern look and feel.

Powering the new BT-50 is the Isuzu derived 3.0-litre four-cylinder turbodiesel which develops 140kW and 450Nm. Those numbers are slightly less than Ford's new 2.0-litre bi-turbodiesel found in the Ranger and Toyota's new Hilux 2.8-litre. Gearbox options are either a manual or automatic sixspeed, with a low-range transfer case for the 4x4 variants.

The Isuzu D-Max Isuzu is a long-standing favourite within its segment here in South Africa and enjoys

Power Prestige Patrol

*Read more about Ford’s special edition Thunder on page 49. n

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escribed as the pinnacle of intelligent technology, design and sophistication, the latest edition Nissan Patrol was launched during September. With this icon’s 70th birthday coming up in 2021, the new Patrol promises customers even more comfort, performance and exceptional off-road capability; coupled with the best of what Nissan Intelligent Mobility has to offer.

“Engineered with the latest intelligent mobility technologies, the new Patrol will give its drivers and passengers a luxurious drive,” said Kabelo Rabotho, Director of Marketing at Nissan South Africa. “The legendary vehicle is one of Nissan’s most cherished models with sophisticated technology as well as a long and proud heritage. We’re confident the new model will provide drivers with unrivalled luxury.”

Unmistakable Prestige The most significant changes for the new Patrol include Nissan's V-motion grille, interpreted in a new way for SUVs. Along with the new boomerangshaped LED headlights, the revised grille highlights the Patrol's strong, angular front.

Attention to detail and luxury means a truly first-class travel experience for all and the Patrol ticks the box with class-leading interior space, sporting a 13-speaker Bose premium sound system, a multi-screen DVD entertainment system, 8” rear seat entertainment, independent

wireless headphones and remote-enabled passenger vehicle infotainment system.

The Latest in tech The Patrol leads with Nissan Intelligent Mobility, equipped with driver assistance technology that helps you see and sense more, with a dynamic range of safety technologies.

It comes with Intelligent Emergency Braking with pedestrian detection and the Intelligent Forward Collision Warning system that warns the driver of risks that lie beyond the driver's forward field of vision. The advanced radar system does not only sense the relative velocity and distance of a vehicle directly ahead, but also that of a vehicle travelling in front of the preceding one. Also included is standard Intelligent Cruise Control and Intelligent Driver Alert, which analyses the driver steering behaviour to signal and alert if signs of drowsiness, or inattention are detected.

Pure Power The Nissan Patrol has a reputation for being one of the most capable, sophisticated and advanced cars in the market and this latest offering builds on its illustrious heritage. There is no substitute for power and torque, and the Nissan Patrol’s 5.6L V8 engine allows you to go where others don’t dare. With this class-leading engine boasting 298kW of power, and an exceptional 560Nm of torque, this powerful engine allows you to take command of any terrain. n

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a loyal following. However, apart from a few special editions on their now outdated offering, the brand failed to bring something new to the table in recent years. Thus, it was a refreshing sign when the automaker announced an all-new D-Max and it promises to be well worth the wait.

The all-new D-Max is more capable than ever before, designed to handle the harshest of conditions. The Isuzu 3.0L turbo diesel engine delivers 140kW of power and 450Nm of torque, matched with either a 6-speed manual or 6-speed automatic transmission. Using highlyadvanced Isuzu common-rail diesel technology, this balances the power with impressive fuel efficiency. The high levels of torque from a low rpm provide strong take-off and acceleration and aid drivability with consistent torque output through the majority of the rev-range.

Like the Mazda, the new D-Max also features a style-focused interior with a large 9” touchscreen taking centre stage. The system also supports smartphone connectivity seamlessly to your vehicle via Android Auto and wireless Apple CarPlay which ensures optimum connectivity while being hands-free.

In Australia, Isuzu's Intelligent Driver Assistance System (IDAS) technology - which encapsulates driver assistance systems as well as passive and active safety systems - is standard across every D-Max model. Using state-of-the-art sensors and multiple cameras, the D-Max constantly monitors the surrounding environment. The system also includes features such as autonomous emergency braking (AEB), turn assist with AEB, automatic BiLED headlights and high beams and trailer sway control (TSC).

All of these systems have become vital safety features, and we hope to see them and others on both vehicles when they come to the South African market. As it stands right now, the Ford Ranger offers the most in terms of comfort and safety features. Will it lose its crown to one of these contenders? Only time will tell!

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Making Headlines

Driving impressions: VW Touareg R-line

Volkswagen recently updated the Touareg to some R-Line attire which essentialy means a nip and tuck, taking it to a whole new level as Justin Jacobs experienced.

I

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will admit that I am rather fond of the Volkswagen Touareg and have always been. While the previous generation was a quality product, this latest model is leaps and bounds ahead of the model that it replaces and, in some cases, it feels every bit as premium as many of it and, in some cases it feels every bit as premium as many of the other German SUVs on offer.

Firstly the R-Line package adds a few sporty bits which differentiate this Touareg from the standard model. The vehicle now features a gloss black grille with various other gloss black elements such as vents on the lower edges of the bumper, even the IQ Light Matrix LED headlights are finished in black. The vehicle also gets 21” rims finished in black, some black detailing around the windows and sports a black roof spoiler and diffuser with chrome tailpipes and LED rear lights.

All-in-all the Touareg R-Line is a real headturner, especially when the adaptive air suspension is in easy access mode which is the lowest setting. Is it one of the best looking in the segment? Well I certainly think so!

Step inside the new Touareg and you are greeted by one of the biggest infotainment screens on offer in a vehicle within the segment. The Volkswagen Innovision infotainment system merges the digital dashboard with the Discover Pro premium

infotainment system, to form one unit.

The result is a 15” centre mounted screen angled towards the driver and a 12” digital instrument cluster. The system is visually appealing thanks to the quality of the displays. It is also easy to use and, of course, Apple CarPlay and Android Auto compatible.

Safety features aplenty, VW introduced a night vision camera which can even detect pedestrians on the side of the road and alert the driver: as well as lane assist, a heads-up display and adaptive cruise control.

The rest of the facia is minimalistic and the centre console is clean and uncluttered.

The seats are electric, heated and cooled and the large panoramic sunroof adds a welcome element of space when opened.

The rear seats can fold flat which increases the 810 litres of luggage space to 1 800 litres. As always the fit and finishes inside are superb and the quality of the materials is truly impressive. One of my only criticisms, however, is the fact that the interior, although brilliant in how it has incorporated all the technology, can feel a bit cold, a bit characterless, much like that found on the new Mercedes-Benz GLE for example.

During my time with the Toureg, I was able to hit the open road and found the drive enjoyable with the adaptive air suspension mentioned earlier increasing the comfort levels.

The Touareg is offered with a 3.0-litre turbo diesel V6 engine that develops 190kW

and 600Nm of torque. Power is sent to all four wheels via an 8-speed automatic gearbox and I managed to consume just over 8.0l/100km over my 300km round trip.

But can it go off-road? While I doubt owners will be doing technical off-road adventures with their Touareg the car is relatively capable and will easily handle those weekend trips to the bushveld where roads might become optional. Being a German SUV there is an Off-Road mode which features alongside Comfort, Eco, Normal and Sport. When in Off-Road mode you can choose what off-road conditions you are faced with, be it snow, gravel, sand and even rock. When in this mode the suspension lifts to its highest setting and the 4Motion system with the gearbox help utilise the power and traction better. Yes, one must consider the fancy gloss black rims and the road bias tyres but the car is fairly capable.

Now, while the Touareg might not be considered equal amongst many within the segment it does carry a price tag that is just as equal, well, sort of. The model I sampled (V6 TDI Executive R-Line) has a sticker price of around R1 334 500. Tick a few boxes for the goodies that my test unit had and you are well into the price territory of the BMW X5 30d and Mercedes-Benz GLE for example.

However, as I said earlier, the VW is not a lesser vehicle so one could consider it to be quite a bargain, I sure do. n

Our Community

Talk

to us!

The team at Adventure Afrika highly rates the views and opinions of our readers and community and want you to use this platform to share your thoughts and opinions on the industry.

Become our fan of the month and stand a chance to win some nifty gadgets.

You ask – we answer Given the high cost involved with a rooftop tent specifically, we believe many readers may be wondering about this topic. While personal preference and your camping set-up plays a large role here, let’s take a look at some pros and cons for both: • Ground tents requires a flat, smooth and level surface, whereas a rooftop tent can be levelled out by driving your 4×4’s tyre up and onto a rock, chock, or piece of wood. You can also dig a small hole for the tyre to drop into.

• Ground tents are available in a wide range of sizes: from single-man units, to massive family tents. What’s more, they are often linkable, allowing you to add more tents to accommodate a growing family, or to incorporate a kitchen or bathroom area.

• Rooftop tents can be folded up with your bedding inside, which saves you space and set-up time when arriving at camp.

• When it’s cold, a lot of heat transfer takes place between you and the icecold ground beneath you; rooftop tents are insulated from this problem.

• A ground tent will usually be noticeably more affordable than a rooftop tent.

• A rooftop tent will keep you high and dry in adverse weather conditions.

• It’s easier to keep a rooftop tent clean on the inside, as dirt is generally knocked off as you climb the ladder.

• Although there are several quick (pop up) tents on the market which are very easy to erect, a rooftop tent is generally set up more quickly and doesn’t require a second set of hands.

• Because a rooftop tent is permanently fixed to your 4×4’s roof rack, you generally don’t need to secure the tent in windy conditions. On the other hand, a ground tent often needs to be pegged down, which isn’t always easy to do on hard, rocky terrain.

www.4x4afrika.com

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• • • • • • •

Most rooftop tents are relatively heavy, which means that you’ll be adding extra weight to your roof rack, and thus raising your vehicle’s centre of gravity, which will lead to higher fuel consumption.

In most cases, you’ll need a roof rack in order to mount your rooftop tent, which further adds to the expense.

Rooftop tents take up the majority of your roof rack space (often up to 80%).

A rooftop tent can make late-night toilet visits slightly trickier.

Ground tents generally live a hard, scuff-filled life, and may not last as long as a rooftop tent.

Ground tents are often easier to sell second-hand, as more people have a use for them.

Ground tents generally offer more versatility in terms of location and where you want to sleep as you can’t always park your car under that nice shady spot.

A rooftop tent can be an inconvenience when you want to go on a game drive as you have to take it down every time.

Our online community votes:

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62%

38%

@4x4afrika

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“I’ve recently fallen for the off-road and 4×4 way of life, and this has brought me to the question of which tent I should buy. Should I go for a rooftop tent or ground tent? – Jan de Klerk, Pretoria.

Send your letters, adventure stories, photos or questions to info@4x4afrika.com (put “community” in the subject line).

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Gear gadgets Box it Ironman 4x4’s Maxi storage cases are ideal for recovery equipment, camping gear and tool. Made from tough LLDPE that is UV stabilised, these storage boxes boast large lockable heavy-duty latches with strong moulded hinges. Priced from R2 000, the containers are super strong with 3.6mm average wall thickness. *For more information, contact Ironman 4x4: +27 11 634 7770 info@ironman4x4.co.za | www.ironman4x4.co.za

Let there be light The all-new Australian made HTX2 from Lightforce gives you the ultimate fusion of HID and LED technology, providing an instant flood of LED lighting combined with unmatched long-distance HID. The flagship product is now available in a 24-volt version that also includes a stainless steel top bracket for additional stability and reduced vibration. Further improvements include CE certification, ensuring HTX2 compliance with internationally recognised standards. Price available on request. *For more information, contact Opposite Lock SA: +27 11 697 0086 | info@oppositelock.co.za www.oppositelock.co.za

What’s cooking?

Arrive at your destination with a delicious hot meal waiting for you, by adding a 12 Volt Travel Oven from Road Chef to your set up. This compact unit allows you to use the 12V battery system in your vehicle (or through a 12V dual battery system) to reheat, bake or roast while you’re driving. Just pop your stew, roast, pies or pastries in this unit, and it will be ready to serve upon arrival. Priced from R4 399, this is a great addition especially on those typically long travel distances on the first day of the expedition.

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*Available from 4x4 Mega World: support@oldmanemu.co.za | www.4x4megaworldonline.com

Gear Reviews

It’s not inside… it’s on top!

Easy to install with no drilling required, the Slimline II Roof Rail Rack Kit by Front Runner mounts easily to the existing factory roof rails of your vehicle. The 1 156mm long Slimline II kit contains the Slimline II tray, wind deflector and two pairs of feet for mounting. As is standard with all Front Runner kits, it comes with installation instructions and components needed for mounting. This rack kit can be removed, leaving your vehicle’s roof and roof rails in their original condition.

Price available on request. *For more information, contact Frontrunner: +27 11 466 0155 | www.frontrunneroutfitters.com

See more & better The KF series of binoculars from Fujifilm is the ideal companion for hiking, exploring and climbing. Lightweight and easy to use, it offers absolute sharpness of detail, is impact resistant and designed with waterproof seals. * For more information: www.myfujifilm.co.za

Power up With load shedding a constant companion for South Africans, why not invest in portable power solutions to use both at home and while camping. TBV Solar offers an impressive range of solar solutions including a high efficiency monocrystalline 200W fabric folding solar panel. Supplied with a 10m cable and controller its folded size is 560mm x 646mm which makes it super portable and light (6.8kg net weight).

It opens up to 2 258mm x 646mm in size. *For more information, contact TBC Solar: +27 83 554 5116 | info@tbvsolar.co.za | www.tbvsolar.co.za

Savvy shoes Built tough with a flexible and athletic feel, the Raider work boot from Wolverine Shoes promises comfort and confidence you can count on for long days on your feet. Bending and flexing with you, the boot feels cushioned, energetic and supportive thanks to dual ContourWelt® and Multishox® construction. Priced at R2 1999, product highlights include: • Full grain leather upper • Breathable CK mesh Lining • Lightweight PU midsole • Reliable grip from slip, oil and abrasion-resistant Multishox® lugged rubber outsole

Small, but strong It is said that true size comes from within and then reveals itself. This is especially true for the Ledlenser Flash Light – MT10. Very compact but super strong, it comes standard with a practical pocket clip, is easy to operate with a front switch and can be charged anywhere in the world via USB 3.0. * Priced at R1 399 and available from Outdoor Warehouse: www.outdoorwarehouse.co.za

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*Available from Safari & Outdoor: info@so.co.za | www.safarioutdoor.co.za

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While the Northern Cape is the biggest province in South Africa, we make no bones about the fact that it certainly is not the lushest, with some people even insisting it is not worth a visit… However, it’s the overlanding appeal lies in the unique, almost alien-like landscapes that stretch on for miles towards the northern expanse of this extraordinary African continent.

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Words: Justin Jacobs | Pictures: Justin Jacobs; Loré Willemse and Anton Willemse (jnr & snr)

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COVER FEATURE | Kalahari

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he Kalahari is a beautiful place, a place of wide-open spaces, a place full of life.

But, ultimately, also a place that will very quickly show you who is boss. The Kalahari is not a place to be taken lightly, but as the Adventure Afrika team recently found out, it is a place well worth visiting. We loaded up the latest Ford Ranger Wildtrak and set the cruise control for the near 900km trip to a land very few have visited.

Let me not bore you with the detail about the long (and boring) road from Johannesburg to Upington.

What I can say is that you have to be sure to stock up on some padkos (see page 56 & 57 for some inspiration) as you can forget about any fast-food restaurants being open before 9am as you move through the small towns en route. The Ford Ranger offered a comfortable, compliant ride quality and the driver assists such as active cruise control which monitors the vehicle ahead and maintains a set distance, as well as the active lanekeep assist make for blissful driving.

Arriving in Upington we were pleasantly surprised at just how pretty this town is. To be honest, one would be forgiven for thinking that a border had been crossed somewhere and we now found ourselves in a different country altogether. Another element which I was particularly happy about was the weather. You see we made this trip at the end of August which meant that the days were somewhat cool and the evenings rather cold. The locals insist that cold evenings are easier to acclimatise to than the sweltering heat during the Summer. After experiencing exactly how cold it could get when the sun sets, I am not convinced!

Our first night saw us overnight at Classic Court Bed & Breakfast, located a few minutes from the Orange River. The accommodation itself is of high quality - the perfect place to rest up after a near eight-hour drive.

However, our adventure was only to start the next day.

COVER FEATURE | Kalahari

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The Ford Ranger offered a comfortable, compliant ride quality and the various driver assists make for blissful driving.

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The Kalahari Red Dune Route The Kalahari is known for its red dunes and 4x4 adventures. With wide-open spaces, a rich variety of wildlife and numerous 4x4 tracks through farms that adjoin the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, this is a 4x4 enthusiast’s dream come true. This experience can be tailored to beginner or experienced drivers who want to push their vehicles to the limit. The Ford Ranger Wildtrak was more than ready for the task at hand, the more challenging, the better.

Our first stop on the route was at Kalahari Camelthorn Caravan Park in the town of Askham. Blink, and you will miss the town, which will be a shame as the town is a quaint little place with a fantastic coffee shop (offering the best milkshakes I have ever had), a fuel station, church and a general store. The people are friendly and Kalahari Camelthorn is a beautiful oasis, complete with two self-catering units which feature air conditioners, coffee stations and fully equipped kitchens.

The guest house also has a rustic luxury caravan for glamping, as well as five separate camp sites amid lush green grass and lots of trees, offering running water, electricity and neat ablution blocks. And, my personal favourite, a boma area for sitting around the fire under the beautiful Kalahari stars… What a tough life we have in Africa!

The next morning we packed up our camp site and hit the road to Kgalagadi Lodge, but before we got there, we made a few stops which are a must when you do this Route. Our first stop was at a farm called Gemsbokkie where we stocked up on some Kalahari lamb chops and sosaties – our staple for the next few dinners. From there, we headed to the Meerkat sanctuary where we got up close and very personal with some of the residents at the sanctuary. Many of the meerkats used to be pets, some are rescues, and some are wild. These little creatures have huge personalities, and they want to be the centre of attention all the time. Even trying to take a picture of the Ford Ranger seemed to be a mission as one meerkat wouldn’t move out of the frame. Once they find a cuddle spot in your arms, they don’t move.

But don’t let their cuteness fool you, they are quite voracious, when they want to be as one of our travel partners found out when she was bitten.

Surf’s up Just a bit further down the road is a place called Rooiduin Guest Farm where visitors can do a bit of off-road driving and even try their hand at sand-boarding. Be prepared to spend a bit of time here as the need

COVER FEATURE | Kalahari

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With wideopen spaces, a rich variety of wildlife and numerous 4x4 tracks through farms that adjoin the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, this is a 4x4 enthusiast’s dream come true.

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Out in the Kalahari, the Wildtrak impressed, dealing with various gravel roads while remaining stable at speed and conquering the infamous red Kalahari dunes (1). The Meerkat sanctuary close to Askham offers personal encounters with these curious little critters (2). Be sure to pop in at a farm called Gemsbokkie on a dusty road to Askham en route to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park to stock up on some superb lamb chops and sosaties (3).

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The need to not fall down the dune but surf it becomes something of an obsession.

to not fall down the dune but surf it, becomes something of an obsession. Once you get it right though it is great. The same goes for the off-road trail, while not very demanding one needs to stay alert and maintain the basics of sand driving. The Ford Ranger makes life easy with on-the-fly H2 to H4 as well as a very clever gearbox which means that you are always in the right gear for best use of the 500Nm of torque.

Once we were all played out in the dunes, we headed to our overnight spot at Kgalagadi Lodge. A beautiful site which overlooks the flat landscape of the Kalahari. The chalet that we called home for the night was spacious, had an air-conditioner, a large bathroom and even a tv with popular DSTV channels. The outside kitchen area is well-equipped, and it was easy to prepare some of the meat that we had bought earlier that day as the sun was going down.

Into the unknown where camels roam Day three saw an early start as we had some ground to cover to a place beyond cellphone signal, a place so remote you literally start seeing camels, because that’s what they farm there... at a place called Koppieskraal. This is where our trip got very interesting.

The Wildtrak had proved itself a worthy companion, dealing with the rough Kalahari roads and delivering commendable fuel consumption; all the while making heads turn for its rugged good looks. Now we found ourselves in the middle of a salt-pan which was to be our overnight location. It was the Adventure Afrika team, a Ford Ranger Wildtrak and a billion stars above us. We set up camp and watched as the sun began to set, with it so too did the temperature.

We kept adding wood to the fire to get as much heat as we could, but as the cold wind fought back persistently, we decided to retreat to our tents, blankets and duvets a double. I was even contemplating sleeping in the mighty Ford Ranger as it comes standard with heated front seats.

Nothing beats waking up in the middle of nowhere, on a pan, with not a sound, besides that of Anton Willemse complaining about the cold that is. Once we had our coffee and warmed up a bit, we were able to face day four of our trip. Yet another gravel road and while the Wildtrak is fitted with more on-road bias tyres, it does seem to handle gravel roads quite well. It feels stable, especially at speed.

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Pass the salt, please It wasn’t long until we reached our next stop-over, Zoutpanputs.

A hunting farm, it also offers a challenging off-road experience where you can view some of the beautiful game on the property.

There are also a few lookout points where one can enjoy a sundowner or two. One thing I realised is that everyone in the Kalahari has a story... And not just any old story - a Wild West-like story about things so absurd that you would be forgiven in thinking that they are just tall tales. It’s these stories that entertained us while we sat around the campfire that night. The farm is equipped with chalets and private ablutions with hot water for those who are camping. There is also a sort of clubhouse with a bar, couches and a fireplace for when you want to reminisce about day’s events.

Oh, and while we thought we had the worst of the cold on the pan; we were seriously mistaken! That night the mercury dropped even more - so much so that our coffee water was frozen the next morning. It was freezing, but this being the Kalahari, warm temperature is never far away, and within an hour or so after sunrise, things started to warm up.

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COVER FEATURE | Kalahari

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Be sure to visit the Meerkat sanctuary and, while you’re at it, leave a donation. It is put to good use towards rehabilitating and caring for wild, injured and rescued meerkats (1). Inflating after driving on the dunes (2). Try your hand at sand-boarding at the Rooiduin Guest Farm (3). Kalahari hospitality is legendary – Hans Knoesen from Koppieskraal Camel Farm is no exception. Be sure to pop in for an interesting camel experience or visit the Kalahari’s Lost City (4).

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On the hunt for a challenge We once again packed up and headed to our second to the last spot on our epic trip; Loch Maree Guest Farm and Field Camp. This location is situated around 90km South from the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and 43km West of Askham. Once we settled into the hunters cabin we headed a few kilometres back down the road to a place called Molopo

Kalahari Lodge. This local watering hole is a must-visit as adventurers from all over the area gather to tell their stories Kalahari Lodge.

We headed back to the cabin and were planning a 4x4 excursion.

However, mother nature had other plans and sent a gale-force wind, which resulted in a massive dust storm. We decided it best to remain indoors and use the time given to relax by the indoor fireplace. The next

COVER FEATURE | Kalahari

Where the red dunes and scrub fade into infinity and herds of gemsbok, springbok, eland and blue wildebeest follow the seasons, where imposing camel thorn trees provide shade for huge blackmane lions and vantage points for leopards... this is the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

getting used to but once I figured out what gear was best suited (it was second gear which I locked it in), I headed up the dune. The Ranger pulled all the way to the top, but unfortunately, I tapped off a little bit too early, and we all know what that happens next… After some digging, pulling and pushing we got the Ranger down the other side of the dune and headed to our final destination, Kalahari Goerapan Lodge.

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morning we woke up early and decided that it was time to hit the 4x4 trail.

Once we found the trail, the first obstacle was a rather tall dune, one which underlined the golden rule of dune driving: as slow as possible as fast as needed. Thankfully the Ford Ranger Wildtrak has the power. Its new 2.0-litre bi-turbo diesel produces around 157kW and as mentioned earlier 500Nm of torque. The 10-speed gearbox, however, did take some

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Nothing beats waking up in the middle of nowhere, on a pan, with not a sound.

COVER FEATURE | Kalahari Fun in the sun Kalahari Goerapan Lodge offers some of the more entertaining dune driving on the route, with a challenging, technical and lengthy trail which is ideal for those who want to play and have fun in the sand.

The Ford Ranger Wildtrak took it all in its stride, without any issues this time around. One negative, however, is the fact that I did feel bad every time I brushed past a bush and heard the scratches along the side.

I guess it’s because the Ranger is a beautiful vehicle, especially in this striking Wildtrak gold. Perhaps plain white will do better out in the bush, but that’s just my personal opinion.

That night we sat around the fire, our long trip coming to an end. Before us lay the great trek back to Johannesburg, but I was happy to continue piloting the Ranger. It delivered on this trip, not putting a foot wrong. Sure, if you are going to do overlanding then one needs to consider a canopy that is properly equipped, perhaps more off-road focused tyres, a replacement bullbar and a few other items as a stock standard vehicle won’t cut it without a support vehicle which we had. That said, the point of this trip was to see if the Ford Ranger Wildtrak could take on the Kalahari and all that it had to throw at us and it complied, with ease.

Home time The next morning, we headed back to Upington, filled the tank of the Ranger and pointed its nose towards Gauteng. The trip back saw an average of around 9.9l/100km and the addition of Apple CarPlay and Andriod Auto as standard means that you are always connected. Messages are read out to you, and your smartphone’s built-in assistant can help with sending voice to text messages; while Google maps is just a push of a button away.

It has been said that you lose your heart in the Kalahari and you will always return for a visit. There is no doubt that this unique part of the country will be seeing us again - more adventures await us, and with a host of new vehicles in the 4x4 segment heading our way in the next few months, I foresee another Kalahari adventure in our near future.

The route

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The Kalahari R ed Dune Route explores the ar ea north of Up ington into the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Pa rk. This protected exp anse shares its b orders with Namibia and Botswana and is one of the larg est conservati on areas in the w o rl d .

Contact: rooid uinroete@hotm ail.co.za / +27 82 492 34 69

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COVER FEATURE | Kalahari

Accommodation options for the weary traveler LOCH MAREE GUEST FARM & FIELD CAMP Situated 90km south from the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, 43km west of Askham and 200km north of Upington, Loch Maree offers a variety of accommodation options. These include a Field Camp and Bush Camp, complete with convenient ablution facilities, as well as a fully equipped luxury suite. Enjoy the remarkable Kalahari hospitality and experience the rich bird- and wildlife.

A 50km self-drive 4x4 route with ample lookout points and braai facilities on a high dune makes this a magical overnight spot.

Contact: Retha Stadler Phone: +27 82 492 3469 Email: lochmaree@absamail.co.za THE KALAHARI CAMELTHORN CARAVAN PARK & GUESTHOUSE A welcoming green oasis situated in Askham, the Kalahari Camelthorn Caravan Park and Guesthouse is 173km from Upington when driving towards the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and 83km from the Rietfontein border post when heading towards Namibia. It offers two self-catering units with air conditioners, coffee stations and fully equipped kitchens as well as a rustic luxury caravan for glamping. Five separate camp sites are available amid lush green grass and lots of trees, offering running water, electricity and your own braai area.

Contact: Rene van Wyk Phone: +27 82 330 6726 / +27 72 437 6969 Email: kalaharicamelthorn@gmail.com THE KGALAGADI LODGE Only 5km from the gate of the Kgalagadi National Transfrontier Park, this wellequipped lodge offers the perfect affordable alternative to staying in the Park.

The clean, fresh accommodation and style compliments the area and brings together the vast array of cultures in the desert. Strategically placed, the chalets makes every morning a special treat. Seeing the sunrise from your front porch is an unforgettable experience, and this alone will make you want to return.

Contact: Kgalagadi Lodge Phone: +27 83 225 0331 Email: info@kgalagadi-lodge.co.za Website: www.aridexperiences.com/kl KOPPIESKRAAL Nestled in the northwestern tip of South Africa, lies Koppieskraal Camel Farm where owners milk camels and farm with sheep; while offering explorers exquisite star-gazing opportunities and ample fresh Kalahari air. Overnight at the Kalahari’s Lost City amongst the giant chairs and tables imagined by Farini in 1885 or camp on the magical desert salt pan to enjoy 10 000 hectares of silence and solitude and a spectacular sunrise. Both sites are for self-sustained campers with no amenities offered. Also available is a fascinating interactive camel experience.

Phone: +27 73 367 6803 / + 27 83 272 2164 Email: bookings@kameelplaas.co.za Website: www.kameelplaas.co.za

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ZOUTPANSPUTS GAME FARM Offering the keen nature lover many enticing opportunities with large herds of springboks and oryx roaming freely, Zoutpansputs offer more than 50 bird species and some exquisite vistas to keep any photographer clicking. Situated north of Upington, about 100km from the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and 70km to the to the Rietfontein border post, guests can choose between three well-equipped bungalows or a night camping under the stars in the neat camp site.

Phone: +27 83 262 0233 Email: henkie@mtnloaded.co.za Website: www.zoutpansputs.co.za n

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TRAVEL WITH US 4x4 | Camping | Lifestyle

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Shortly after the cross-provincial travel ban was lifted, the Adventure Afrika team headed to South Africa’s far north, where the Limpopo and Shashe Rivers meet. A spot where you can peer into Botswana or watch eagles soar over Zimbabwe... To the “Hill of the Jackal” or, as it’s known today, Mapungubwe.

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Words: Justin Jacobs | Pictures: Anton Willemse & Justin Jacobs

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LOCAL TRAVEL | Limpopo

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xcited by the prospect of heading out of the city for the first time in months after the confinement brought about by the national lockdown due to COVID-19, we couldn't wait to point our KIA Sorento's nose north… Chasing the winter warmth of Limpopo, majestic baobabs, the legend of the golden rhino and some of the best birding South Africa has on offer, we hit the road to Mapesu Private Game Reserve for a mid-week break.

The KIA Sorento has been defined as an adventure SUV – a vehicle designed to transport you and your family in comfort and safety while effortlessly dealing with various road conditions.

But that's what the marketing material says. We wanted to put the sales pitch to the test to establish whether it is worth a consideration if you are in the market for a vehicle that can satisfy your adventurous lifestyle.

And what better playground than the picturesque Mapesu Private Game Reserve, situated a few kilometres from Mapungubwe National Park? A 7 200 hectare game reserve with around 48 different animal species which includes four of the Big Five, Mapesu is roughly 500km from Pretoria with most of the travel time being spent on the N1 highway.

Easy-going on the Sorento, then – until you reach the potholefilled roads just outside Polokwane and you have to sharpen your alertness to manoeuvre around the potential death traps.

That said, the Sorento handled the trip to Mapesu with ease by offering a comfortable driving experience.

Arriving at our destination Nestled in Mapesu Private Game Reserve is the Mopane Luxury Bush Lodge, the place we called home for a few nights. With a variety of accommodation – including self-catering chalets, camp sites and a luxury lodge – on offer, we opted to stay in the Wilderness tented camp. These pods of luxury – each tent has a bathroom en suite with a large tub, outdoor shower, air conditioning and quality bedding – are discreetly tucked away on a hillside with stunning mopane bushveld views. The units are set apart to enjoy privacy while offering comfortable furnishings, ensuring that all nature lovers can relish their time in this secluded and beautiful area of South Africa.

The pool is within a short walking distance of each unit as well as fine dining and excellent cuisine at the restaurant. Ending off each day with a cold one at the bar area overlooking the pool and a drinking hole, we could relax and discuss the events of the day, of which there were many.

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What to do at the reserve There are a wide variety of mammal species either currently in the reserve or have recently been in the reserve. The reserve's general manager, Johan Pfahl, believes that travel and tourism must be more meaningful, sustainable, and impactful for both the travellers and their destinations. As such the team has embarked on the reintroduction of various species into the wild. In 2016 a herd of elephants found their home, followed by cheetahs in 2017 and sables, giraffes, and buffalos in 2018.

In 2019, rhinos were introduced with immense effort and patience, which means that Mapesu has four of the Big Five roaming inside its borders. The remaining species (lion) can be found inside the Mapungubwe National Park to where Mapesu also undertakes game drives.

The team at Mapesu offers a variety of unique expeditions for guests, but take note that some of the events take place during specific times of the year. It is thus best to consult their calendar (available on their website) when planning your visit.

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LOCAL TRAVEL | Limpopo

Ending off each day with a cold one at the bar area overlooking the pool and a drinking hole, we could relax and discuss the events of the day, of which there were many.

Dinner at the foot of one of the oldest Baobabs on the reserve (1).

Mapesu Private Game Reserve offers a variety of accommodation options in the lush bushveld of Limpopo (2).

Tracking the Rhinos on the reserve with the rangers was a special treat (3). Khoisan art and drawings reflects the rich history of this area (4).

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A moment that felt like ages was over in a few minutes when the rhino moved a few meters and – as big as what it is – vanished into the veld.

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One of these activities revolves around elephant contraception, with the next one scheduled for 1 to 8 February 2021. During this expedition, guests will be allowed to get up-close and personal in vital conservation work with Africa's largest land mammals. Working alongside the reserve team and veterinarian, you will be able to observe first-hand what it takes to protect these magnificent giants both on the ground and from a helicopter.

One of the highlights for the Adventure Afrika team, however, was the invitation by the game rangers to assist in tracking the rhinos on the reserve. The point of these exercises conducted by the Antipoaching Unit (APU) is to have eyes on these endangered animals, to ensure that they are safe and in good condition. Our excursion started early in the morning as we first needed to find the tracks.

A good place to start is usually the local watering hole, and that's where we first encountered these magnificent creatures. We drove a few kilometres deeper into the reserve until we needed to proceed on foot. As we meandered our way through the dense bush following

the tracks, our experienced guide ordered us to halt, pointing into the distance. There it was, a rhino only but a stone's throw away from us, looking right at us. A moment that felt like ages was over in a few minutes when the rhino moved a few meters and – as big as what it is – vanished into the veld.

When we returned to the lodge later that afternoon we decided that it was high time to sample some of Mopane's speciality cocktails and their own brand of gin which we enjoyed next to the pool, overlooking the beauty that is Africa. But it certainly did not stop here. To top this near perfect day off, we decided to put the theory that a night under the bush heavens ensures some of the best stargazing to the test… So, we braved the cold and proceeded to have dinner at the foot of one of the oldest baobab trees on the reserve. Our braai was obviously very inviting as, just beyond the light of our fire, we heard hyenas waiting for us to leave them some of our dinner. What a truly magical experience! I again realised just how we blessed we are to live in this beautiful country.

LOCAL TRAVEL | Limpopo

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3 Mapesu is a piece of heaven on earth, with beautiful spots to relax in nature (1). An early morning walk in the dense Mopane veld. (2). Get up-close and personal with Africa’s largest land mammal. (3).

Mapesu and the Mopane Bush Lodge is a must for those who want a luxury getaway where they can relax, recharge and get close to nature. Getting to the lodge is easy, especially if you have a travel companion such as the KIA Sorento which remains a favourite of mine within its segment. The interior space, as well as seven-seat functionality, is impressive. It offers excellent levels of comfort, and the motor is noteworthy. Yes, it is not a full-blown bundu-bashing SUV and lacks the clearance of such vehicles, but it will easily do the weekly commute demanded by the city while offering you the ability to experience a new adventure over the weekends.

For more information: MAPESU: https://mapesu.com/ MAPUNGUBWE: https://www.sanparks.org/parks/mapungubwe/ KIA: https://www.kia.co.za/ PAGE

Self-driving made easy While you can enjoy accompanied game drives in fully equipped game-viewing vehicles, the Mapesu team heeded to requests from some of the more adventurous visitors and implemented a few self-driving routes within the reserve. The roads have been cleared and somewhat smoothed out to make it easier for SUVs and even crossovers to navigate the dense mopane bush in search of a variety of animals. Here, the Sorento impressed again with its levels of grip thanks to a central differential lock mode. The KIA predominantly sends its power to the front wheels, but it can send power to the rear wheels when it detects that more rear grip is needed.

The 185mm of ground clearance is impressive, however we did hear a few knocks now and then, perhaps a higher profile tyre would provide for more clearance. Unfortunately, there are some areas in the reserve where the KIA could not go, and it is up to the driver to use discernment and know the limits of their vehicle.

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Travel and tourism must be more meaningful, sustainable, and impactful for both the travellers and their destinations.

– Johan Pfahl, General Manager: Mapesu Private Game Reserve

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LOCAL TRAVEL | Limpopo

Mapungubwe National Park Bordering Mapesu Private Game Reserve to the south, the Mapungubwe National Park and World Heritage Site is the ideal location for anyone interested in varied wildlife and birding, or the rich history of the area.

Some must-do activities include: WALK AMONG TREES: Visit the Treetop walkway overlooking the Limpopo River in the eastern section of the park, close to Leokwe camp. About two storeys off the ground, the raised boardwalk takes you into the tree canopy where identification plaques point out some of the common trees, such as leadwood and fever trees.

WHAT A VIEW: From the viewing decks at the confluence you can see where the Sashe and Limpopo Rivers meet, and where Zimbabwe, Botswana and South Africa join along the riverbanks. The four decks – including sunset and sunrise decks – give an expansive view out of the river valley, the meandering flow of water and the inevitable baobabs peeping out over the other vegetation.

TAKE IN THE HISTORY: Take a guided heritage walk up 147 steps to the top of Mapungubwe Hill, see the graveyard of kings and learn more about the history and culture of the people who lived here from 1220– 1290 AD, when they traded with Egypt, India and China through Islamic traders on the east coast. Also, be sure to pop into the interpretive centre and museum near the main gate.

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HEAD IN THE CLOUDS: Try to spot the "Big Six of birds" found in the park – Pel's fishing owl, martial eagle, lappet-faced vulture, ground hornbill, the kori bustard and saddle-billed stork. Remember to look up for a chance of seeing the magnificent Verreaux's eagle.

5 The viewing decks at the confluence offers spectacular views (1). Game aplenty in Mapungubwe National Park, bordering Mapesu to the south (2). The region’s flora is incredibly varied, with larger-than-life Baobabs peeping out over other vegetation (3). Over the past few years, the team at Mapesu has reintroduced various species into the wild, including giraffes in 2017 (4). This region offers some of the best birding South Africa has on offer (5).

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The KIA Sorento impressed with its levels of grip thanks to a central differential lock mode.

LOCAL TRAVEL | Limpopo

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About the KIA The KIA Sorento in EX guise means that you get amenities aplenty. These include Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, auto-folding mirrors with side-mirror indicator, LED daytime running lights, auto light control with welcome home function, parking sensors as well as a rear-view camera to name but a few.

Thanks to a dominant front end, chrome-like grille and sculptured bumper the exterior design of the KIA Sorento is quite handsome, with a bold ruggedness. It looks longer than most other SUV offerings in the segment due to its narrow side window profile and lack of curvature in the window line – a feature which I quite like. The rear is tastefully designed thanks to LED rear tail lights, a large roof spoiler and silver elements on the lower bumper.

The model which we sampled was fitted with 235/60 R18 tyres all round which provided decent impact protection when our route became littered with potholes.

The interior of the Sorento is well put together with decent plastics, leather and soft-touch elements. Our test unit was also fitted with dark wood trim which added an extra sense of class, in my opinion. The rear passengers benefit from rear side window shades as well as ventilation. The 605 litres of luggage capacity also came in handy as did the fact that the capacity can be increased to around 1 662 litres when the rear seats are lowered.

The interior also features a host of USB ports, and our vehicle featured a wireless phone charger which kept our teenage passenger happy and connected.

The infotainment screen is easy to use, but once you connect your smartphone and use either Apple CarPlay or Android Auto, life just becomes better.

The engine – a 2.2 litre turbo diesel which develops 147 kW and 147 Nm of torque – adds to the impressive performance of the Sorento. Power is sent to all four wheels via a smooth-shifting eight-speed automatic gearbox which goes about its business without notice.

The Sorento offers various driving modes such as Econ, Comfort and Sport. Most of our trip was done in Comfort, which is the default setting. It still provided enough throttle mapping to pull off easy overtaking and not once did any of us feel that more power was needed. However, the vehicle did average around 8.8 litres/100 km, a far cry from the claimed 6.5 litres/100 km.

The Sorento regularly scoops the top honours in the JD Power Intitial Quality Study, and we can see why: quality finishes, comfortable and safe driving and superb handling – definitely worth considering if you're in the market for a good all-rounder. n

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There’s more luxury and style in the KIA Sorento, for a lot less than you’d expect. Add to that KIA’s Unlimited Kilometre, 5-year warranty and an unrivalled reputation for quality*, and you’ll understand why the KIA Sorento makes sense, for all the right reasons.

Find out more at www.kia.co.za. *Ranked #1 for quality for 6 consecutive years, J.D. Power Initial Quality Survey

Subscribe win Make sure you r never miss out on you a by copy of Adventure Afrik and subscribing at 25% less an stand a chance to win amazing get-away to Mapesu Game Lodge

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A 3-night luxury stay for two people at MOPANE BUSH LODGE in Limpopo including breakfast, dinners and 2 activities per day PLUS a couple spa treatment at the Wellness Sala Spa.

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MOPANE BUSH LODGE @ MAPESU PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

MAPESU PRIVATE GAME RESERVE pursue conservation efforts that are coupled with responsible tourism to help build the symbiosis between the people that work here, the land and its animals; as well as our guests.

Situated in the incredibly diverse area of South Africa in northern Limpopo the reserve spread across 7 200 hectares and is home to four of the big five with the remaining species (lion) roaming the Mapungubwe National Park, just a stone’s throw from the reserve. The reserve boasts over 48 mammal species including sables, giraffes, zebras, buffalo and the team at Mapesu works closely with the Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Cheetah Meta Population Project and recently reintroduced two cheetahs into the reserve.

Whether you stay at the Mopane Bush Lodge offering luxury 4-star selfcatering units, the campsite (with a tent rental option) or the recently added luxurious tented camp, MAPESU PRIVATE GAME RESERVE will bring you close to nature in an authentic African bushveld setting.

https://mapesu.com/

The prize is valid until 31 March 2021 and the lucky winner will be selected from subscriptions secured during October 2020 to February 2020.

Daisies We drive the famous passes of the Tankwa Karoo in Ford's Ranger Thunder and join a pilgrimage to Niewoudtville to witness the world's most impressive natural flower show.

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Words & Pictures: Angus Boswell

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LOCAL ADVENTURE | Tankwa Karoo

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ou have to go and see the flowers. It's the best it's been in years." This kind of advice is hard to ignore, coming from Henk van Niekerk, a tour operator and one of four owners of the Tankwa Tented Camp (TTC). He points out a special route I have not driven before, which takes one to Niewoudtville in just 140km. Then Henk delivers the clincher: But remember you need good rains, and sun for the flowers to come out. We've had the rains, but this sunny weather is not going to last."

I had persuaded The Prof (aka known as my better half) to go on this jaunt, to help with driving duties and to open farm gates, selling her the idea of open roads and cosy lodges. Luckily, after packing up and leaving Cape Town in bucketing rain two days before, clear skies and sun had emerged as we picked a less-travelled circular route along the Roggeveldberge and through the Tankwa Karoo National Park, enjoying the comforts of Ford's latest Ranger special edition, the Thunder.

Now, though, it's time for a snap decision. The spirit of adventure wins as we choose to add an extra leg and another day to our trip, one that promise of a carpet of flowers. It's a no-brainer, really, and that evening after we braai a few lamb chops outside our charming wooden cottage in the Tankwa Tented Camp, out comes the trusty Slingsby map of the Tankwa Karoo to get to grips with the twists and turns of the proposed shortcut.

Thunder (and rain, wind and snow) to Ceres Two days earlier we had hit the N1 out of Cape Town in heavy rain. Gusts of wind buffet the Ranger as we climb Du Toit's Kloof Pass en route to Worcester and the temperature gauge reads a frigid 8 degrees. There's snow on the mountain tops. I'm tempted to get Queen's 'Bohemian Rhapsody' blasting through the rather good six-speaker sound system, just for the lyrics, "Thunderbolts and lightning, very, very frightening…"

Instead, we opt for the "Freshest South African" playlist on Spotify to celebrate getting on the road in September after months of COVID-19 lockdown. Riffs of bad verse form in my mind, and I wonder if this trip will turn into a mud bath. "Rain, Wind and Thunder... Roll on Summer...

If this is Spring, we're suffering."

Turning off the N1 onto the R46 we crest the twisty Michell's Pass then drop into Ceres with 180km on the odometer. Time to get lastminute supplies at the local Spar and duck into the trendy Tremor Coffee Bar where I fully expect to get a Seismic Cappuccino. We head out the town, still on the R46, moving through squalls of rain, over a greyed-out Theronsberg Pass as we make our way towards the R355, a 257km stretch of sharp shale that terminates at Calvinia. This road is notorious for munching tyres, and, to be honest, I'm nervous about puncturing the sidewalls on the highway-oriented Continental Cross Contact tyres fitted to the Thunder. I keep them inflated, against most advice, and drive with care.

LOCAL ADVENTURE | Tankwa Karoo

Pouring mugs of tea from our flask, we figure out the origins of the phrase a storm in a teacup.

road follows the path of the Tankwa River for some distance, before heading up the Roggeveldberg plateau to one of the highlights of the day: the 9km-long Ouberg Pass. I had driven down this old farmer's route used to move sheep between the valley and the plateau, but never up. With the brooding shadows getting longer, it is time to get The Prof into the driver's seat while I take some snaps.

Of course, the Ranger takes this challenge in its stride, bumping over the loose sections, and negotiating the tight hairpins and sharp drop-offs into the valley that retreats into the distance way below.

We pull into a stopover point and marvel at the mountain peaks and distinct geological strata. It's been a steep climb up a narrow ridge, yet it has inspired confidence. The Prof now seems to have borrowed a cap from Sébastien Loeb, and is gunning the Ranger through muddy ditches and boggy sections on the last 15km towards the turn-off to Skurweberg Guest Farm.

From sweltering sun in the valley just an hour before, temperatures on the plateau have now plummeted, and our host Elsa van der Merwe ushers us quickly into the digs for a night: a well-appointed and spacious cabin with four bedrooms and two bathrooms that sleeps 10. She points out the provided braai wood and the words "electric blanket" and "hot shower" are music to our ears as we notice thick drifts of ice near reception, a leftover from a big snowfall a few days before.

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The Forgotten Highway & Ouberg Pass Just 6km in, we turn right onto the gravel R356, which forms part of the "Forgotten Highway" to Sutherland. At Bizansgat we have to eat inside the car. The wind is so strong it's blowing the sliced tomatoes off our sandwiches. The "highway" gets narrower as it heads towards the Koedoesberge, punctuated by cattle grids and unexpected steps into rocky stream beds, many with muddy approaches indicating recent rains. The brakes haul speeds down sharply at times, and the suspension is ironing out the bigger hits. The Thunder's fancy auto box is doing lots of work here, making easy-going of a demanding road.

The road winds upwards between Tafelkop and Gifkop, and just at the Northern Cape provincial boundary, we stop at Thyshoogte, which offers spectacular views towards Sutherland. There is little evidence of civilisation stretching out below, and the skies seem huge – with little light pollution. No wonder this is prime stargazing country. It's windy up here too, and after pouring mugs of tea from our flask, we figure out the origins of the phrase, "a storm in a teacup". Better to retreat into the warmth of the Ranger's cabin. It's time to push on if we are to make our stopover before nightfall.

We miss an unmarked left turn and briefly end up on the tarred R364 to Sutherland, taking the first left onto the P2252, and the first water splash, crossing the Dwars River. This winding and pretty section of

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The spirit of adventure wins as we choose to add an extra leg and another day to our trip, one that promise of a carpet of flowers.

LOCAL ADVENTURE | Tankwa Karoo Biting cold (two degrees on the Ranger's temperature gauge) encourages me to get the unpacking done and the braai on in record time as we settle in. It's an early night and a frosty morning on this working farm, and I greet the horses and disappoint the sheep and goats who think it is feeding time. We had been passed on the road by farm owner Witjan in his Land Cruiser the day before, and I get to admire his industry. Everything is orderly, even the usual cluster of farm implements outside the sheds. We had planned to drive Skurweberg's Grade 3 4x4 trail, but time is short and the tyres perhaps not up to it. "It is more difficult in the wet," Elsa points out, so we linger over morning coffee and take a leisurely start at 9am after inspecting the camp site – a great spot with a boma.

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3 Hot roosterkoek bought at the roadside in Niewoudtville made an excellent late lunch as we hit the N7 going south (1). Nothing beats a Karoo swim after a day of dusty driving (2). Slingsby’s detailed map of the Tankwa Karoo was an invaluable resource (3).

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Middelpos & Gannaga Pass The undulating district road, the AP2264 to Bo-Visrivier, soon connects with the larger R354 going northwards to Middelpos.

The initial drive borders the Fish River, which is unusually full.

Dams and rolling hills dot the views, and between fields of sheep we spot a couple of Steenbok which shyly head off into the distance. There are signs to guesthouses left and right Ouberg Farm, Koornlandskloof Gastehuis, Jakkalsdans. There is no traffic at all, apart from two bikers. These roads are very quiet during the week. As the sun rises, small patches of daisies and other species in brilliant yellow, orange and purple shades emerge, the promise of things to come.

We expect Middelpos to be a sleepy one-horse town. It turns out to be a ten-chicken town with a fading hotel and an old-fashioned trading store. The roosters are busy, but the residents are clearly on the sleepy side. A sign in the shop warns: "Geen diens aan pajama lopers."

Turning back down south towards Ceres, we take a left after 6km at the signpost indicating the Tankwa Karoo National Park and Gannaga Lodge in 22km. Apart from rooms with endless views, this haven for adventure bikers has a well-stocked bar. We enjoy a pleasant lunchtime stopover, from our initial greeting by manager Johann Visagie to a sampling of Voertsek beer crafted by winemaker Dawie Niewoudt of Cederberg Wines. We bump into cheery travellers "breaking out" after lockdown, including Nick and Hillary Diemont, here on a 50year honeymoon tour in their Pajero. They get us on their mailing list after we find out they are co-owners of Strandveld Vineyards in Agulhas.

In the heat of the day we get cautiously back on the road, passing the jump-off point for Watervlei 4x4 trail, a four-hour route which requires a permit issued by the Tankwa Karoo National Park, and which guarantees amazing views from the top of the plateau. Next time! Almost immediately we begin the steep drop down Gannaga Pass, a 7.2km cluster of hairpin bends which drops to the valley from 1 226 metres above sea level. Though not rough, it is narrow in places, and a fellow adventurer coming up tells us there are some rocky, washedaway sections, assuring us the Ranger's high ground clearance will be an advantage. The Prof is in the driver's seat again, and to keep things slow, we engage high-range four-wheel drive using the twist dial, and experiment with the Hill Descent Control, which helps to regulate speed. Intended for gnarlier conditions, we soon resort to simply holding gears using the +/- selector on the gearshift.

We are treated to incredible views with each turn, and some of the stone walls on the bends are a feat of early roadbuilding. The P2250 flattens and widens on level ground

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approaching the TKNP head office at Roodewerf, from where one can branch off to some remote camp sites we will explore next time around. From here the mountains cast shadows on either side of this broad valley, and though the vegetation is low and sparse, there is a scattering of flowers. I've plotted an easterly route across the breadth of the valley, turning left at the ruins of a school and heading on an indistinct track past Uintjiesbos. We take a wrong turn towards the farm Platfontein, then follow our instincts, with help from map expert Peter Slingsby. There are no signboards here, and we warily bump over fist-sized boulders crossing the dry Renoster River, then join the faint Windkoppies track.

This drive captures the beauty of the Tankwa Karoo, with the road transitioning from yellow to red sand, each with different vegetation sorts, then on to a blackened gravelly moonscape.

We startle a brace of Gemsbok, who trot twin dust trails across the plains before they stop to stare at this metal imposter. Cars are a rarity here. The road is very corrugated in parts, giving the suspension a workout designed to overheat shock absorbers. So we again engage high-range 4WD and, credit where it is due, the Thunder stays very composed. It hardly breaks out under power on the bumps and easily churns through deep sandy patches. I am taking photographs from outside and can see the extent of the wheel travel at times. Inside, The Prof is impressed at how safe it feels.

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Fossil beds & Tankwa Tented Camp We rush over fossil beds and ancient stony lunar landscapes, chasing

the light to reach Tankwa Tented Camp in the Stonehenge Nature Reserve. Another biker haven adjoining the site of the annual AfrikaBurn Festival, a bar is hidden behind an eclectic collection of bikes, ploughs and collectables arrayed around an open fire.

Strange mutant vehicles and bizarre sculptures from AfrikaBurn are artfully scattered about around the rampart-like stone wall which forms the backbone of the place. Near a set of stone sculptures which backdrop giant solar panels, we are drawn to music and laughter. A Stop sign and a message scrawled in chalk pronounce: "This is a trap!!!" But it's too late. We are into the private jol of Henk van Niekerk and a bevy of friends.

He is one of the larger-than-life owners of the TTC, holding forth in his book-filled camp in the desert. There's a big KTM in the corner. He tells us about his overland tours, before urging us to join a sundowner drive to one of the surrounding hills, and planting the seed that makes a trip to Niewoudtville's natural flower show a must-do. He introduces us to manager Leon, who explains how to get to our mini chalet, an off-grid wooden Wendy house on stilts with a neat front stoep, donkey boiler for ahot shower and a pristine bed with a solar-powered electric blanket.

After a day of dusty driving we rather opt for a swim, taking the "Bored Walk" to the "Stoney Beach", where a cluster of palmfronded umbrellas and sun loungers complete a fantasy centred on a huge reservoir. We can't believe this extraordinary venue.

It is a feast of wide-open space and a lekker place to toast the sun setting behind the distant mountains with a few chilled beers before we get the braai going again.

LOCAL ADVENTURE | Tankwa Karoo

slippery broadside halt before the startled photographer. "I think I'm getting the hang of this," she grins. I praise the rain-sensing wipers which cleared the windscreen and saved me from a mud bath.

We have seen no more than ten cars in two days, finding the east-west link routes between this region's north-south arterials very empty. Closer to the Mecca of Niewoudtville, soon after crossing the R364 to Clanwilliam, the clumps of flowers become more frequent and, with it, more cars and tourists stopping all around, walking mesmerised into the veld. This is it. We are heading for the epicentre of the flower fever.

We take a detour to Papkuilsfontein Guest Farm, passing a field filled with Blue Cranes, and sign up to drive two curated flower routes. The reception area is buzzing with botanical talk and the smell of good coffee, and we take a break to enjoy a cuppa along with some delicious apple tart.

The profusion of colour is incredible as we drive along the flower routes. A labourer's cottage, where clothes are drying outside, is surrounded by a riot of oranges, purples and yellows.

Daisy devotees are walking into the fields, where more than ten species can be discovered at many locations, smiling broadly and

An almost-full moon is just fading as the morning sun fills the horizon, and we aim for an early start to ensure we complete our flower mission. Leon tells us about his year with the Maasai in Kenya, and a few snippets of his travels in 19 African countries over the previous decade while I feast on the famous TTC breakfast served by the Malawian kitchen crew. Then we confirm the route with Henk, who has his hands deep in a basin of soapy dishes: 40km up the R355, left at the bridge, right at the first fork, right at the fence post... and so on. His tyre protection advice is first-class: "Whatever you do, stay in the tracks. Don't go to the side of the road."

Sundowners at TTC, with one of the many artful sculptures for company.

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Soutpanpad to Niewoudtville Through a few farm gates, we turn right onto the infamous R355 and barrel along its rolling path for 40km, keeping very firmly in the tracks. The tiny Uitspankraal sign marks the left turn after a bridge, onto a narrow rural tweespoor. We ignore the left to the Biedouw Valley, and find our way to the Soutpanspad. It is hot and windy, 22 degrees by mid-morning, and the roadsides are bursting with colour. We get out of the Thunder to take in some of the wide variety of flower species covering each square metre, coming across the first of many tortoises pretending to be stones.

It's not called the Soutpanpad for nothing. Thick muddy tracks on much of the road are throwing the Ranger about, and there are deep drifts to get through. The Prof has the wheel, and the Loeb cap is back on. She takes a massive plunge through one deep drift, throwing a wave of mud over the Ranger and coming to a

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snapping away with their cameras. We spend hours doing the same, marvelling at this rich display, before heading into town making frequent stops when another variety pops up. The brownstone buildings of Matjiesfontein, a popular tourist stop along the way, are almost obscured by a wave of yellow. The Hantam National Botanical Garden is so full that new visitors are being turned away.

We take some snaps of the purple fields at the entrance along with an upcountry visitor, and declare together: "It's too much." We've

reached colour saturation point.

It's late when we finally drive through the unusually busy streets of Niewoudtville to refuel at Protea Motors on the outskirts of town. The owners are run off their feet dispensing fuel and tell us all accommodation has been booked out for at least the next two weeks. Yes, South Africans can travel again, and making the most of it.

We get onto the N7 going south, have a quick tailgate picnic of roadside

LOCAL ADVENTURE | Tankwa Karoo

THE VEHICLE: Ford Ranger Thunder Special Editions have their appeal, and the Thunder adds R30k to the price of the Wildtrak, the primary benefits being black alloys and red detailing on the seats, grille, and Sports bar/ spoiler.

The “Mountain Top” roller shutter covering the load bin is standard, along with a bed divider which makes packing easier.

I found it ideal for separating the wood, braai and groundsheets which go up front, with the food and duffel bags of clothes further back. The tie-down hooks on a sliding rack also prove useful to prevent items bouncing around in the back. We pack a load of stuff into the load bin, but the fridge is just too high to fit under the roller deck and goes onto the back seat.

Apart from rugged looks, this double cab bakkie justifies premium pricing with a feast of technology. The range-topping driveline comprises a bi-turbo 2.0-litre diesel putting out 157kW at 3750rpm, and 500Nm from 1500-2000rpm, combined with a 10-speed automatic gearbox and low-range transfer case. To put that in perspective, the high-range 1st gear ratio is 4.696, while 10th gear takes that down to 0.636 per revolution. The fuel index is pegged at 7.8 litres/100km, but one can expect a real-world usage of 8.5-9.0l/100km with careful driving.

There’s a gear for almost everything, and while the engine sometimes seems to hit a flat spot on gentle slopes and needs a throttle nudge before kicking down, most of the changes are almost seamless. When you need it, there’s the low-range option, and a solenoid-operated rear differential lock.

Apart from a full traction control suite, the big deal for most Thunder or Wildtrak owners will probably be the driver aids, optimised for highway travel. It has a lane-keeping system that pulls the steering when you veer off the line, adaptive cruise control which slows the vehicle down and speeds up again to the set speed, to ensure a safe distance from other traffic. A high-end piece of tech includes a system called Active Park Assist which basically does parallel parking for you. Not much need of that out in the desert, but one has to welcome the reverse camera and parking sensors which help to manoeuvre this long bakkie.

What makes the drive enjoyable are things like the highly effective new LED headlights and the rain-sensing wipers which do their work according to the amount of rain, automatically.

It’s a well-insulated cabin, with overtaking moves getting done with authority, needing only a small twist of the right foot.

is now humming along at a good lick on the tar, and I watch the fuel index drop as low as 7.5l/100km, down from an average of 8.8-9.0l/100km on the gravel. The Active Cruise Control is doing its thing and I can relax despite the wet conditions. We agree that the Ranger has been a superb travel companion, delivering a safe and cosseting ride under all sorts of conditions. It has never felt stretched to any limit, and, best of all, we didn't pick up a puncture despite over 300km on shale-strewn gravel roads.

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roosterkoek stuffed with cheese, and stop briefly at the top of the dramatic Van Rhyn's Pass to witness storm clouds rolling into the vlaktes stretching out for miles below. An overnight stay in Clanwilliam breaks the 400km journey back, and the rain is back in full force the next day.

The Prof and I agree the weather gods have smiled on us, opening a two-day window of sun so we could witness this flower feast. The scenic passes and huge vistas of the Tankwa Karoo have calmed the city rush. We have to go back with more time. The Thunder

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Travel

guide...

Skurweberg Guest Farm

On the farm Houdenbek on the Fish River, owned by Witjan and Elsa van der Merwe.

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Contact: +27 23 571 2728 skurweberg@roggeveld.co.za www.skurweberg.co.za Accommodation: Two chalets (sleeping 9 and 8) and camp sites.

Activities: 4x4 trails, hiking, MTB trails, visits to a local stargazing observatory or to visit the Southern African Large Telescope (SALT) outside Sutherland.

Tankwa Karoo National Park

LOCAL ADVENTURE | Tankwa Karoo

Declared a National Park in 1986, this massive arid valley in the Succulent Karoo biome lies between the Roggeveld and Bokkeveld mountains, covering 1 460 square kilometres.

Contact: +27 27 341 1927 reservations@sanparks.org | www.sanparks.org Accommodation: The Tankwa guesthouse with four units, three farm cottages, the Elandsberg Wilderness camp with five chalets, two formal camp sites and six designated wild camping spots.

Activities: Incredible stillness, bird watching, game watching, three 4x4 trails – Watervlei, Elandsberg, Leeuberg.

Tankwa Tented Camp

Inside the 3200Ha Stonehenge Nature Reserve, off the R355 between Ceres and Calvinia, near the site of AfrikaBurn Contact: +27 71 078 4400 (WhatsApp) tankwatentedcamp@gmail.com www.tankwa.net Accommodation: Five en-suite chalets, 13 permanent tents, two camp sites.

Activities: Visit the Tankwa Karoo National Park, hike, bike, chill out, swim.

Gannaga Lodge

On the P2250, 28km south of Middelpos, and 2km north of the Gannaga Pass. Inside the Tankwa Karoo National Park’s boundary.

Papkuilsfontein Guest Farm

Just outside Niewoudtville, just off the P2276 gravel road.

Contact: Mariette & Attie van Wyk +27 72 555 1416 / +27 27 218 1246 | info@papkuilsfontein.com | www.papkuilsfontein.com Accommodation: Range of seven chalets across three locations from swanky all-star with a butler, to camping.

Activities: Flowers in season, bird watching, hiking trails, MTB routes, mild 4x4 driving, visit the Papkuilsfontein waterfall and canyon, close to three nature reserves – Oorloogskloof, Waterfall Reserve, Niewoudtville Flower Reserve – and the Hantam Botanical Garden. n PAGE

Contact: Johann Visagie +27 87 150 4645 / +27 79 922 1688 gannaga@hantam.co.za | www.gannagalodge.co.za Accommodation: Restaurant catering when staying at the Old Farmhouse with five bedrooms, or in the Stable Block with its six single/double bedrooms.

Self-catering for two at Kliphuis.

Activities: Swimming pool, superb bar, restaurant, walking in the hills, looking at the views over the Ceres Karoo.

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In the first long-distance, real-life test for the new Land Rover Defender on South African soil, legendary explorer Kingsley Holgate together with his son Ross recently departed on a 70-day, 10,000km humanitarian journey to track the outline of South Africa.

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on the road again

EXPEDITIONS | Mzansi Edge

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They say you only have one chance to make a good first impression and the new Defender has certainly wowed us so far. We are indeed honoured to be putting this legendary icon to its first realword test in South Africa," said Kingsley Holgate, upon departing on their epic humanitarian journey during September.

The Mzansi Edge Expedition – set to cover 10 000km in 70 days – will include several geographic and humanitarian objectives, covering eight of South Africa's nine provinces. It will include World Heritage Sites such as Mapungubwe, ancient deserts, coastal dunes, precipitous cliff trails and river crossings. The expedition will see rare geological formations and extreme mountain passes, soft sand 4x4 tracks, iconic landscapes, unique biomes – such as the Cape Floral Kingdom – and world-renowned wildlife areas. The expedition also aims to reach all 52 lighthouses along the west and east coasts and will research and record stories of South Africa's 'edge' – from ancient civilisations to modern times.

Determined to reach South Africa's extreme geographic points, the expedition started with the symbolic filling of the Holgates’ traditional Zulu calabash at the country's most easterly point near Kosi Bay in northern KwaZuluNatal. From there the team will travel in an anti-clockwise direction, staying as close as possible to South Africa's borderline, to reach the most northerly point on the border with Zimbabwe. Next up will be the extreme westerly point at the mouth of the Orange River on the Atlantic seaboard and Cape Agulhas, the most southerly point of the African continent. While journeying up the Indian Ocean coastline, the expedition will break away to circumnavigate the border with Lesotho, before rejoining the east coast and ending back at Kosi Bay in late November.

Certainly a South African odyssey fit for the most travelled person on the African continent. Having spent the last 30 years exploring every country on the African continent and beyond, Kingsley was rearing to get going.

"We are thrilled to bring charity closer to home with this expedition. So many of our journeys have been in search of wild and distant destinations deep in Africa, but now an opportunity exists for us to explore our own 'Mzansi' – to outline this 'world in one country' that we're proud citizens of."

In recent months, the Holgate Foundation worked with the 'Feeding the Wildlife Community' volunteer teams to distribute nutritional food parcels to hundreds of rural communities bordering game reserves. These communities were some of the hardest hit by the complete collapse of the tourism industry during the national lockdown and the resultant loss of jobs and income.

"Even though travel restrictions are easing, it's going to take time for income to start flowing again and widespread hunger is still a major concern for thousands of people living in outlying areas. As such, the Mzansi Edge Expedition's humanitarian focus will be on distributing 200 000 meals to needy families close to wildlife parks, as well as to early childhood development centres and creches in rural communities," said expedition leader, Ross Holgate. In partnership with the DoMore Foundation

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and other humanitarian organisations, #TeamDefender will also distribute face-masks and sanitising soap to families, as well as digital thermometers to community groups and organisations that need to maintain strict COVID-19 health protocols.

The Holgates' two Defenders are equipped with all the items required to tackle the challenging routes necessary to deliver aid to Africa's hard to reach locations. Both are fitted with Explorer Packs featuring raised air intakes, lockable side gear carriers, roof racks and underbody protection among others. The two Defenders are powered by 3.0-litre straight-six mild hybrid (MHEV) P400 drivetrains with 294kW - making them the first petrol, and first electrified vehicles in the Holgate fleet.

The Holgate team will be joined by other South African adventurers to tackle parts of the route by mountain bike, canoe and on foot. These include veteran mountain biker 'Shova Mike' Nixon, one of only four people in the world to have completed every ABSA Cape Epic, Everest mountaineers Sibusiso Vilane and André Bredenkamp, and adventure runner David Grier, the first person in history to run the Great Wall of China in both directions. *Follow the Holgates' expedition updates using the #TeamDefender hashtag on social media.

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About the new Defender Dubbed by the Land Rover marketing team as the most capable Land Rover ever created, the new model represents 70 years of innovation and honours the vehicle's history for rugged solidity while thoroughly remaining a Defender for the 21st century.

A comprehensive model range is available, with four specification packs including base Defender, S, SE and HSE models. Standard features in all versions include permanent all-wheel drive with a high- and lowrange transfer box, air suspension, Terrain Response, LED headlights, Connected Navigation, 3D Surround Cameras, 10-inch Pivi Pro infotainment, a Driver Condition Monitor, and Apple CarPlay and Android Auto Smartphone Packs to name a few.

This new version is not only driven by a passion and respect for the original, it also inherits the previous model's naming convention. Available now in 110 guise, which gives a historic nod to the 110-inch wheelbase of

EXPEDITIONS | Mzansi Edge

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the previous generation, the Defender 110 body style offers customers a choice of five, six or 5+2 seating configurations and a loadspace ranging from 1 075-litres behind the second row, to 2 380-litres with seats folded.

The line-up includes a flagship 3.0-litre straight six-cylinder P400 featuring efficient Mild Hybrid Electric Vehicle technology with outputs of 294kW and 550Nm. Alternatively, customers can choose between two 2.0-litre variants, with a P300 turbocharged petrol offering 221kW and 400Nm, and a D240 twin turbocharged diesel producing 177kW and 430Nm. A short-wheelbase Defender 90, with seating for up to six, is scheduled for South African introduction early next year. n

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Nostalgia

“On the road again, Just can’t wait to get on the road again...

The life I love is making music with my friends, And I can’t wait to get on the road again…”

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Words: Veralda Schmidt Photos: Loré Willemse

Egg on your face?

I know boiled eggs always make for a mockery, but if you are an egg family, give it a new twist with a delicious curry sauce.

I simply spice up the recipe from my treasured Compleat Housewife with a strong curry mixture or powder of my choice.

Boil the eggs, allow to cool, peel and cut in half (lengthwise).

Pack them onto the sauce so that your eggs rest on top of the sauce. Sprinkle with chopped fresh coriander and voila - an old stalwart in a brand-new guise!

Another padkos hit is potato salad. One thing I know not to question is someone's potato salad recipe – everyone has their secret method and ingredients. My sister-in-law puts condensed milk in hers. I don't. My sauce is half mayonnaise, half thick yoghurt with finely chopped parsley, shredded gherkins and whole grain mustard. For padkos potato salad, I like to put thick slices of German Bratwurst on top, with some mustard - delicious and filling!

Fresh fruit is another must in any road trip picnic basket, as well as an apricot jam and cheese sandwich. And the most important: coffee with condensed milk and koeksisters!

Enjoy the trip and remember to sing! n

Shortcut meatballs for the long road Ingredients 1kg of your favourite boerew ors Feta cheese, cut in small cub es 1 egg Half a cup of bread crumbs Finely chopped fresh herbs of your choice (I like oregano or

Italian parsley) Method Squeeze the sausage from its skin Mix the breadcrumbs, herbs and egg with the meat Form golf ball-sized balls, pre ss a hole in with your finger, put in a block of cheese and roll well Press them firmly and put the m in the fridge for an hour to set Preheat the oven to 180° C Heat some oil in a pan and bro wn the meatballs Pack them in an ovenproof dish – bake until done (about 30 – 45 minutes)

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remember it like it was yesterday, my father behind the wheel, my mother with the AA's "Off the beaten track" on her lap, the four of us in the back seat and the ocean calling.

After Dad prayed for mercy on the road and for us kids to behave, he popped his Country & Western Classics tape into the radio. We would then sing together, creating our version of car karaoke long before it became a social media phenomenon.

In between the singing, Mom takes time to read, aloud, the history and stories of all the little towns we are driving through…

Johannesburg, Heidelberg, Villiers, Warden, Verkykerskop and then – finally – we reach Harrismith where we stop for padkos.

After this pitstop, we travel through Van Reenen, Ladysmith and I can't remember the correct order anymore, but there was Colenso, Mooirivier, Escourt and all the little villages that now form part of Midlands Meander.

But back to the highlight: PADKOS! My mom, Letitia, is a master at packing for the road and years ago when I wanted to impress a boy with the perfect road trip picnic basket, I went straight to her for advice. All she said was that it needed to be fresh, taste good and it must be convenient to eat. We always stopped for a road trip picnic next to the road since eating in the car was strictly forbidden, apart from Sparkles fruit candy.

She always had a damp cloth in a little plastic bag for messy hands and coffee, sweetened with condensed milk.

Whatever else you decide to pack in your road trip picnic basket is up to you, but I have one request: there must be meatballs (or the much more interesting word, Frikadels – as the Afrikaners call them!)

I know life gets busy and its so easy to pop into one of the many fastfood restaurants en route to wherever it is you are travelling to, or stock up on ready-made snack platters from Woollies... No! Never! Not if you are driving with me. Preparing padkos is a passion and priority for me – it is as important as the trip itself, if not more so! And it doesn't have to take days to prepare – you'll be done in a jiffy if you follow my quick and easy meatball recipe.

Personally, I believe presentation is as important as your ingredients so I pack the whole caboodle – plates, knives, forks, teaspoons, mugs, serviettes and so on! A good alternative, of course, is to pack everything in small Tupperware holders which can then double up as plates.

HOBBIES | Cook & Enjoy

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What’s in our

camera bag?

Award-winning landscape photographer and social media influencer from Australia, Destin Sparks, once described photography as the story one fails to put into words… Better we could not put it ourselves, even if we tried! Here at Adventure Afrika we rely quite heavily on our images to tell our story, to take you with us on our journeys as words are rarely adequate to portray what we are fortunate enough to see on our travels.

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Words: Anton Willemse

HOBBIES | Photography

A body of work So, what would you typically find in our camera bag? Our two Canon EOS 80D bodies deliver stunning images – packed with detail, colour and atmosphere – in a range of lighting conditions. Boasting an impressive 24MP sensor and able to do a decent seven frames per second, it effortlessly meets our needs. The adjustable touchscreen

Get that cover shot

Head of content, Justin Jacobs gives us insights into achieving our cover shot.

When it comes to automotive photography, I generally try and get as much of the vehicle into the shot as possible, unless I need to focus on detail shots. These include specific design elements or features that you want to focus on, such as headlights, wheels or interior bits.

For our cover shot, I wanted to highlight the Ford Ranger’s colour by having it contrasted against either the sunrise or sunset. While in the Kalahari, I noticed that both times produced a beautiful, crisp orange and yellow glow that worked well with the red dunes and golden grass. However, as you can see, we opted for a shot on a salt pan, to highlight the unique lunar-like landscapes in the area.

While driving the 4x4 route at Loch Maree, looking in my rear-view mirror, I noticed that the sun was creeping over the horizon. In front of us was a vast open pan, so keeping our social media accounts in mind, I got out to capture this image with a smartphone. Down to eye-level, I saw it – the perfect balance between the Ranger, the sun, the blue sky and the somewhat white salt pan. This was it – our cover shot opportunity.

Armed with one of our Canon 80D bodies fitted with the Sigma Art 18-35mm f/1.8 lens, I set the exposure to 1/800sec and ISO-250. Focal length was at 18mm and aperture at f/1.8.

is one of our favourite features as it makes it easy to get those lowangle shots like the one on this month’s cover.

Along with the two camera bodies, we have a collection of lenses that can be used for specific applications. The Sigma 150-600mm contemporary lens is ideal for wildlife photography, and while defined as entry-level, it does the job perfectly, giving crisp and sharp images every time. The most used lens in the bag must be the Sigma 18 -300mm, offering a better range than the standard kit lenses (the 18-50mm and 70-300mm) you usually get when purchasing a starter kit. The lens that the team more often than not fight about using must be the Sigma Art 18-35mm f/1.8 which captures beautiful images; be it portraits, cars or product stills. Other lenses include a 24mm pancake as well as 50mm NiftyFifty which ensures we are armed and ready to shoot anything that moves! For indoor and studio work, we also have a couple of different strength flashes.

But, as my wife would say, boys will always find a need for another toy. Still, our latest acquisition – a DJI Maveric Pro drone, is a toy with purpose, proving invaluable to augment our set for aerial shots and video. However – also pointed out by my wife – the tools do not make the man! Yes, things are easier nowadays as errors can be fixed on the fly, with ISO or aperture adjustments or changing your lens. However, you still need to practice and intimately get to know your camera’s settings to make sure you get the most out of it!

During the next few editions, this section of the magazine will deal with various photography topics to share tips and ideas to improve your work continuously.

Once the image was taken, I transferred the file to my phone via the Canon app using the camera’s Wi-Fi feature. I then ran the image through Adobe Lightroom to get a quick understanding of what the potential was.

Mother Nature certainly did her part, giving us a nearperfect canvas, but we still saw the scope for a touchup here and there.

Back home after the trip, I ran the images through Lightroom on my desktop and started fine-tuning it. Editing is very often a matter of personal taste, and the process depends on what you want to get from the image. For the cover, we wanted to highlight the oranges and yellows, while ensuring a clear, crisp and detailed portrait of the vehicle.

There is no wrong way to take a picture. For me, it’s a continuous learning experience, experimenting to see what works and what doesn’t. Take time to study the work of photographers you admire, view web tutorials recreate images that inspire you to refine your skills. n

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ears ago, as a somewhat shy teen in high school, I found purpose in capturing our family’s memories and moments on film. Using my dad’s Pentax ME and armed with a couple of rolls of film, I learnt through trial and error… And, unlike today, you did not know about your errors until after you visited the local Kodak store where it sometimes took up to three days for your images to be developed and printed!

Therefore, one had to concentrate when taking a pic and think about what you are capturing – a roll of film was only so long, and usually my parents bought only about three 36-exposure rolls of film, giving me just over 100 images for a week-long trip through the Kruger National Park.

How things have changed with the advent of digital photography and, with it, instant gratification and almost life feedback on your work! And now I am not even talking about smartphone photography with multiple built-in editing software packages and readily available apps to produce a fairly decent photograph (well, at least an Insta-worthy one!).

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Bucket list

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Boredom is often the start of many crazy ideas… It was no different for Bernie Williams, who decided that an expedition to Botswana in the rainy season would be a great adventure.

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ADVENTURE | Botswana

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riginally the trip started out as a sevenday excursion, heading out towards the Makgadikgadi Pans in the direction of Kubu Island, and then onto the Kwai concession area for a few days before making our way back home to South Africa.

Pitched as true “manne” trip, the plan was to take off after New Year's Day and return by 7 or 8 January. The excuse would be that we since we have complied with the family thing over the Christmas break and it was now our turn to recharge our batteries so as to be ready for the start of the new year.

The Makgadikgadi Pans on its own can be very deceptive. Add to that massive amounts of rain and you would realise that it could be a recipe for disaster. But as a bunch of avid adventurers we threw caution to the wind and we were on our merry way to Kubu Island.

For the last few years we haven't been using the camp sites at Kubu Island and we've been staying at the adventure camp close to the veterinarian fence.

The reason for this is quite simply that at the adventure camp there are hot showers and flush toilets which does make it easier for our clients, especially the ladies.

We headed off towards Kubu Island, the pans were filled with water which makes driving extremely tricky and difficult. One tends to drive on gut feel, because the tracks that are normally there, are flooded. We soon learned that it is better to stay on the old existing tracks, because due to continuous traffic over years, the terrain has become a lot more compacted.

Having said that though, we ventured off in a different direction and soon realised that we were in trouble. I asked the rest of the convoy to head back to the main track and stay on those tracks in the direction of Kubu Island to a spot that was dry at the time.

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Don’t follow the leader I would then take a shortcut across the pans to join up with them and I explicitly asked everybody to please not follow me. Needless to say, as I looked in my rear-view mirror, I had two vehicles behind me, which soon ended up with them both getting stuck.

From there, our day just got longer! While we are doing our best to free one the stricken vehicles, along come two of the vehicles that made it through safely, to come and offer assistance only – yes, you guessed it – to also get stuck. Long story short, five and a half hours later we were on our way to the camp site having missed the magic sunset on Kubu Island!

If you have never experienced Botswana in the wet or rainy season you are seriously missing out. It is the most beautiful you will ever see this African gem and, contrary to popular belief, game is plentiful. The understanding would be that the bush would be so dense that you wouldn't be able to see any of the animals that are around, but honestly I have never seen so much game around during the past 12 years of doing this trip in December.

During planning for this trip, demand became higher, with the adventurers asking for more and voicing their dream to see the Caprivi strip during the wet season.

Ever willing to cater to the clients’ dreams, we added this stop to the itinerary.

The Bots adventurers quickly learned it is better to stay on the existing tracks and – if one of the vehicles do get stuck – don’t turn back as you are almost guaranteed also to get stuck. At least most of our group kept their sense of humour, as Peter Nathaniel demonstrates.

ADVENTURE | Botswana

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Needless to say, as I looked in my rear-view mirror, I had two vehicles behind me, which soon ended up with them both getting stuck.

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I will never forget the very first time that we included the Caprivi strip on our adventures. We were camping in the Kwai River concession area and our original plan was to drive back to Maun and then drive around via Sehitwa to get to Sepupa Swamp Stop.

Not too far from there is the only World Heritage Site that Botswana has - Tsodillo Hills, home to more than 4 000 Bushmen drawing sites.

As you approach, you can see the male, female and child hill in the distance. It is certainly worthwhile to chat to a local Bushman that will explain the drawings to you – but I digress.

On New Year's Eve, sitting around the campfire, we were discussing certain routes around the area and I happened to mention to our clients at the time, that there was a route that runs from close to North gate all the way around the northern edge of the Delta ending up at Shakawe. We would cross the Okavango River via the pontoon then head on to the Namibian border. I had driven this route once before with clients from Peru but that was in September before the rains.

Our clients were extremely adventurous and asked why we don’t drive this route to our next destination. After much deliberation convincing me that they are up to the task, we decided to head on

through this area. Little did we know about the massive 4x4 trucks that take supplies to the lodges in the North near the Linyati.

The first problem is that your wheels do not run in the same tracks as the trucks, because they are wider. Extremely thick sand awaits you, and in between mud holes with black cotton soil which are deep, as the trucks have now made proper deep ruts in them.

Besides the thick sand you also now have to contend with serious water along the way in these mud holes. Add to that the fact that there are plenty of elephant in the area and the bush is dense right up against the track, and you will understand that this is no normal drive – and it does this for 180 km’s!

It is a full day’s drive, anywhere between six and eight hours, due to the terrain. If you feel adventurous and brave enough to attempt it, keep in mind the time it takes when planning your itinerary. You have to stay on the road because it is a transit road. The areas to the left and right are concession areas, where camping is not allowed. If you do attempt the track, do it with someone that knows the area and is an experienced overlanding guide. You could find yourself in a spot of bother if you went in there unprepared.

Little did we know about the massive 4x4 trucks that take up supplies to the lodges in the North near the Linyanti. The first problem is that your wheels do not run in the same tracks as the trucks, because they are wider.

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The Makgadikgadi Pans in rainy season is no joke so make sure you have the correct recovery gear and knowledge to ensure you do not damage your vehicle (1). What is better than bonding next to a campfire in the Wild? (2). The escape route out of the Hunters Road can be quite challenging (3). A river cruise on the Chobe is always a highlight on any trip (4).

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If you do attempt the track, do it with someone who knows the area and is an experienced overlanding guide.

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Once you reach Shakawe, it is a short hop over the river on the pontoon which ads a sense of excitement. The border post closes at 6pm and from there our next stop is the well-known and much loved Ngepi Camp, which has been around for close to 30 years and has been voted as the world’s best camp site numerous times.

My personal highlight of Ngepi is the floating swimming pool in the Okavango River!

No visit to Ngepi is complete without a visit to Buffalo reserve.

You will find Buffalo reserve on the opposite banks of the Okavango River. It is a short drive to the intersection of Bigani/Divundu and in the direction of Katima Mullilo, and is well signposted to your right.

What makes Buffalo reserve unique is the fact that this used to be the home base of the very renowned and well known 32 Batallion from the days of the South African Bush War. Besides huge numbers of

elephant, buffalo and lion, the remnants of the buildings often bring back memories from days long gone by. To me no visit is complete until I've stopped at the graves of the fallen heroes of 32 Batalion and raised a glass to my old mates.

Also close to Ngepi is Mahango Reserve, which you actually drive through once you cross into the Caprivi. This reserve is well worth a visit with herds of roan antelope as well as other game.

It offers magical views over the massive Okavango flood plains.

There are predators in this park, and you should only get out where it is indicated as being safe to do so and even then, be extra vigilant.

From Ngepi we drove in an easterly direction towards the wellknown town of Katima Mulilo, stopping on the way near Kongola at the Babwata National Park. This is where we would find the remnants

ADVENTURE | Botswana

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4 Driving through the thick sand in the Kwai area (1). A beautiful Zebra herd spotted near Gweta (2). Contrary to popular belief, game is plentiful during the wet season and it is always a treat to spot the African wild dog in nature (3). An unexpected but beautiful sighting in the Caprivi (4).

Coming to an end With our adventure drawing to an end, there were still a few surprises along the way. One of these is the well-known Hunters Road. We start with it at the most northern tip near the Zimbabwe border gate and then start driving south. Along this section we have often encountered big herds of giraffe, zebra, wildebeest as well as buffalo, not forgetting the elephants. It would be stupid to try and drive the entire Hunters Road in the rainy season. I know there are people that have done it, but when you have the safety of clients and their families to consider, discretion is the better part of valour. We drive to the last possible escape road out of the Hunters Road and in a good rainy season even that can be challenging.

Once we get to the tar, we continue on our journey south until we reach Elephant Sands. Here we spend some time enjoying a few cold ones as well as lunch in the company of the elephants as they come down to the water hole. I do remember the days of Elephant Sands when it was small and intimate with the ellies drinking water from the pool while you sat in it. Sadly, those days are over as commercialism as taken over.

For our last evening together, we headed to Nata Lodge. This has always been one of my favourite places to stay, from my early days of travel to Botswana. Sadly, it burned down a few years ago but has been rebuilt to its former glory. Although most clients opt to sleep in the chalets or luxury tents on this last evening, the camp site is one of the best with comfortable and clean ablution facilities.

The staff prepared an amazing dinner for our last night, spent reminiscing about the last 12 days... the sights, the sounds, the experiences... I again realise that I could never live anywhere else in the world, Africa is just too much a part of me and I have seen and experienced too much of Mama Africa as Kingsley Holgate calls her so passionately. n

“Having travelled and led many tours through our neighbouring countries, this December-January adventure to Botswana and the Caprivi Strip will stay in my mind as one of the best experiences I have had. Undoubtedly, a bucket list trip for every enthusiastic overlanding adventurer.”

- Bernie Williams.

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of the old South African reconnaissance unit retraining base called Fort Doppies, as well as the very well-known Horseshoe with its abundance of game. We would normally stop here to have a lunch break at the old base with its magic views over the river. There is plenty of game around this area and is absolutely well worth the visit.

I have always wanted to camp here for two nights but have never gotten to it, so bucket list it is!

We headed on to Kasane for the next two days. Kasane is one of my favourite towns, having made friends with the local people here over the last 20 years of visiting. My choice of camp is Thebe River Safaris.

I have seen this business grow over the years and the owners have become very good friends. They offer combo packages that include the early morning game drive into Chobe National Park as well as a boat cruise in the afternoon on the Chobe River. The cruise is always special… there is nothing that beats a sunset over the Chobe.

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In a market with endless choices for larger family vehicles and littered with bakkies and SUVs, how do you balance the needs and wants when purchasing your 4x4, asks Angus Boswell.

TECHNICAL old 110 Defenders and the Land Rover Discovery, from Series 1 to “All-New”.

The same goes for 4x4 bakkies. The volume players include the Toyota Hilux, Ford Ranger, Isuzu D-Max, Volkswagen Amarok, Mitsubishi Triton, Nissan Navara and Mahindra Pik Up. Heavy hitters include such fare as the Nissan Patrol and Land Cruiser 76 Series.

Spoilt for choice With so much potential choice out there, the best way to narrow things down is to ask yourself a few tough questions, starting with, “what do I need this vehicle for”? Don’t stop there. Where do you plan to go? A few trails and the odd camping weekend will throw up different needs to an epic cross-Africa trip. How many people will you typically carry? How much camping gear will you want to take along? What modifications will be needed to go the places you are dreaming about? Will you use the vehicle only for trips and adventuring, or must it do double duty at home for the commute and school run?

The sensible thing is to get a clear picture of the running costs of the different vehicles too. A Jimny, for example, will present you with a far smaller fuel bill than a 200 Series Land Cruiser.

While you are at it, check things like the cost of replacement parts, service intervals, and, if buying new, what’s covered by the service plan and warranty.

The usual rules about buying used or new apply. Sometimes a year-old vehicle that’s already taken a depreciation drop is a better choice than one right out of the box. Often this vehicle will have already been treated to some of the modifications you have in mind. A great second-hand price might also be a warning of expensive breakdowns to come. Choose reliability over the whims of brand passion, unless you rate your skills as a bush mechanic. Of course, when buying new, you start with a clean slate, and can make exactly the changes required to suit your pocket and travel aspirations.

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We all know many car purchasing decisions are based on emotion. Buying a new 4x4 to head off into the bush is no different. You have a vision in your mind, and go out to make that vision happen. That’s all lekker, but you need to have a practical checklist on hand, or you might find the farm track you navigate every other weekend is killing the rims on that city slicker softroader. Or you bought a tough old Land Cruiser from a farmer, and now realise you need a kidney belt to drive any distance and your family refuses to share your dream vehicle.

When it comes to 4x4s, the major first step before scouring the market comes down to a body style choice. That’s right, even before opting for a name brand, you get to choose between a closed station wagon or an open-back bakkie (and even the latter offers the options of a single cab, extended cab or double cab).

Just to be clear, here we are talking about expedition-worthy 4x4s. Vehicles with a ladder-frame chassis, decent ground clearance, low-range gearing, and, at the very least, a rear differential lock. On the SUV front, that cuts out the softroaders which come in all sorts of sizes and boast plenty of clever technologies, but are not in the same league when it comes to toughness.

The small SUVs we are talking about would include the Suzuki Jimny (and at a push the Suzuki Grand Vitara and Renault Duster). The mid-sized examples span all those raised station wagons based on bakkies, like the Toyota Fortuner, Mitsubishi Pajero Sport, Isuzu mu-X, and the Ford Everest. The Jeep Wrangler in all its formats sits somewhere in the middle of this spectrum, along with the Toyota FJ Cruiser, while the larger brethren embraces anything from the Mercedes-Benz Gelandewagen, the Jeep Grand Cherokee, through Toyota’s 60/80/100/200 Series, the Prado, the 76 Series Land Cruiser, Nissan’s Patrol, the now discontinued Mitsubishi Pajero, all the

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Utility or comfort?

At one end of the spectrum, a single cab bakkie will be best suited to a couple. It offers lots of load space and can easily be modified to take a full camper conversion. It’s a highly practical choice if it needs to carry different loads and work hard. The downsides are a harder ride and a cap on interior luxuries and driver aids.

The middling choice is a double cab. It can carry more passengers plus a decent load, and the high-spec versions nowadays offer a wealth of driver assistance systems and luxury trim. It will still be hard to park and use in a tight urban environment and ride comfort is never going to be pillow-soft.

Head over to the SUV side of things, and you have the ability to carry more passengers in greater comfort and ultimate safety. They are great to drive in town, are comfortable on the long road, and also excel on the trails. The engines and gearbox combinations are often more high-tech, 4x4 systems can be complex, and suspension set-ups are aimed at insulating the passengers from the conditions outside.

Typically NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) has been given more attention. A lot more driver assistance gadgets are offered as standard, and trim levels are more luxurious. 4x4 ability can be exceptional on the better SUVs. The downsides? Apart from the heftier price sticker, load-carrying ability is reduced and there is less load area. The biggest SUVs such as the Land Cruiser 200 can take a punch and offer plenty of space, but most bakkie-based SUVs are compromised when the second row is full of passengers.

The pivot point The ultimate choice pivots on what abilities you value the most. Does the vehicle need to be used to pick up the kids at school, and get about comfortably? Or do you need to carry heavy stuff about a lot, and plan some serious 4x4 expeditions where a tough and simple vehicle makes more sense?

It is also worth bearing in mind that every vehicle can be modified to meet specific needs, whether it is an SUV or bakkie. You can fit tougher, larger tyres and raise the suspension to improve ground clearance.

A bullbar and aftermarket rear bumper will improve approach and departure angles and make driving through tight tracks less stressful, and potential animal strikes less hazardous. A roof rack will take some of the lighter, bulky camping gear (or a rooftop tent), freeing up interior space.

It is relatively easy to modify a bakkie to meet overlanding needs, while still ensuring the vehicle can be used for working duties. That said, some SUVs provide an exceptional starting point for a dedicated overlanding wagon. Who can argue with the potential of the new Suzuki Jimny if you think like a hiker and don’t expect to take many passengers? The larger SUVs include some seriously pedigreed go-anywhere 4x4 icons.

How to narrow down the choice? Go back to those initial questions.

Do some research to establish the pros and cons of each vehicle. Check out the forums, and perhaps join a dedicated brand club. You could also offer to share a few beers with a trusted mechanic so he can talk about ownership costs and known issues, if any. Then take the plunge.

TECHNICAL

BY THE NUMBERS To compare apples with apples, let’s take a look at the differences in dimensions and capacities between South Africa’s top-selling bakkie and its SUV derivative.

Length Rear overhang Gross Vehicle Mass Fuel index (combined, litres/100km)

HILUX D/C 2.8 GD-6 4X4 MT 5 345mm 1 285mm 2 910 (payload 815kg) 7.6 (M)/8.5 (AT)

The Fortuner is shorter, by 550mm, making it the easier vehicle to get into and out of tight spaces, whether on the commute or the trail. It has far less rear overhang, though the stated departure angle for the Hilux is 26 degrees, little different from the Fortuner’s 25 degrees. With the same 2.8-litre turbodiesel engine, the bakkie claims a better fuel index of 7.6 litres/100km for the manual version, and matches the auto, which is logical given they share a drivetrain, though the real world might throw up differences when the bakkie is fitted with a canopy, for example.

A clear difference lies in the GVM (Gross Vehicle Mass) figure, which is a measure of the maximum payload and passenger load, with a full tank of fuel. Here the Hilux manages 160kg more, in addition to offering a larger load area. The Fortuner can take up to seven passengers, including two midgets in the rearmost row of

FORTUNER 2.8 EPIC 4X4 4 795mm 1 060mm 2 750kg 8.5

seats, but this reduces the load area to some 200 litres. With those seats folded down, there’s just 1 080 litres of space – not much for a family overlanding trip.

Then there’s the suspension issue. The Hilux offers a firm ride quality, using a double wishbone front with coil springs, allied to a solid rear axle bolted to semi-elliptical leaf springs. It’s the standard bakkie formula designed for carrying heavier loads. For optimal ride comfort, you need to put some weight in the loadbin, and the weight distribution front to rear will be a moveable thing depending on what is being carried. The Fortuner’s front suspension is much the same, allied to an independent rear suspension which is a more sophisticated four-link set-up with a lateral control rod and coil springs. This is largely why the Fortuner offers a smoother, more compliant ride, but has less load-ability.

THE CHECKLIST SUV

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Tough and adaptable, with plenty of practical uses, from hauling garden refuse to moving furniture.

Designed to carry a higher payload than an SUV. Easy to modify and fit aftermarket accessories to improve performance or ability, whether a suspension upgrade or a roof rack.

Usually supplied standard with sensibly sized rims (typically no more than 18-inch), and hardier tyres with thicker sidewalls.

Double cab can carry five, but four is better. Single or extended cab is only driver and passenger.

Ride can be on the harsh side. Put that down to a solid rear axle on elliptical leaf springs designed to carry a load. Nissan’s Navara is an exception – the top model has rear coil springs.

Longer rear overhang, especially when fitted with a tow hitch.

Needs a canopy or secure loadbin cover to keep goods safe when travelling.

Can be Spartan in terms of driver/passenger comforts and driver assistance systems low down the trim grades. Range-topping models now offer plenty of gadgets with a price to match.

Can be less fuel efficient than an SUV due to the extra wind resistance of the loadbin (and often the added drag of a canopy).

Bakkie engine and gearbox choices tend to err towards torque delivery and load-carrying, usually mated to a manual gearbox (though autos are now widely available on the higher spec models).

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Can carry more passengers, legally and in comfort.

Smoother ride due to sophisticated rear suspension.

Excellent handling. Good highway performance.

Secure – everything is locked inside.

May offer air suspension and various techy 4x4 traction systems.

Shorter, so easier to park, and better in traffic.

Less rear overhang, giving better departure angle, so often more capable off-road, out the box.

More driver aids standard and as options, along with plush often leather-clad interiors.

Wind-cheating shape improves fuel efficiency, often allied to high-tech engine choices and automatic gearboxes throughout the range.

Best for carrying people, not doing hard, dirty work. You will also feel bad when that fancy paintwork gets scratched or bumped out in the bush.

Low loading capacity; smaller payload.

Complex tech means more can go wrong which implies higher long-term running costs.

Typically supplied standard with rims that are too large, and tyres better suited to highway driving, offering good braking and wet weather handling, but less protection off-road.

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CAMPING | Karoo

The a place close to my heart

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The Karoo pauses a man, and he stands amazed at nature and her beauty.

Alex Kock and his family recently rediscovered their souls at Porcupine Rest Camp near Laingsburg.

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t’s Friday afternoon, the start of a long weekend… To the adventure lovers it means that the bakkie is packed and we are taking off on a new adventure! On the agenda for this weekend: Camping in the picturesque Karoo! It’s about 210km on the N1 from Paarl to Laingsburg, where we take the turnoff on the R323. A further 47km away lies Porcupine Rest Camp, where we’ll pitch camp for the weekend. In the middle of nowhere, on a dirt road, as far as the eye can reach, we finally see the sign indicating that Porcupine Rest Camp is on the right.

We are heartily welcomed by the owner, Joy. Porcupine Rest Camp is a stop on the R323 where travellers can relax and recharge. Enjoy something to wet your whistle, hearty meals to choose from, and of course, the three bushveld camp sites (River Camp, Karee and Sweet Thorn) for staying the night.

After enjoying a drink at the Overlander bar, we drive down to our camp site. The camp is unbelievable – spacious and well sheltered, with the most beautiful thorn trees, neat ablution and kitchen facilities, and irrigation from the borehole (I suggest that you take along fresh drinking water). The camp has no electricity, but a donkey is provided for hot water. The silence, together with the fresh scent of Karoo bush, sets the perfect ambience.

I start the fire immediately, to ensure a lovely hot shower later. We pitch our tent and settle in. I’m glowing, because tonight we’re eating like kings: Karoo lamb and roosterkoek, accompanied by good red wine – what can be more appropriate for our surroundings?

The next morning my first priority is to get the kettle on the gas stove for a cup of coffee. The mornings in the Karoo are incredible – serenity beyond description. With the fresh, clean air, and turtledoves cooing in the thorn trees, how can you not be chirpy?

After breakfast we hop in the bakkie to go and explore our surroundings.

Back on the R323 we turn right in the direction of Seweweekspoort.

The exceptional Poort extends over 17km, with the most majestic rock formations. At the end of the Poort we reach the other side of the mountain range, on the R62. Calitzdorp is left, but we take a detour right to Ladismith for the best cheesecake ever. This area is renowned for its high-quality cheese, after all!

On our way back to the camp we visit Zoar, a small communal town, where one of my wildest dreams came true – to ride on a traditional donkey cart.

After numerous enquiries in town, I am finally referred to Samuel, the wellknown donkey cart man, as he is described by the community members.

It made my day! Samuel harnessed his donkeys especially for me and he let us go for a ride. Clearly Samuel loves his donkeys – they are well cared for and in good shape. It was a moment that I’ll cherish forever.

Back at Porcupine we drop in at the Overlander bar for an ice-cold beer to add the finishing touch to our day’s adventures. We have a little chat with Joy and enjoy a game of snooker before we head back to our camp, where I instantly start the fire and donkey, because tonight we’re having potjiekos.

With the potjie simmering, a glass of red wine to drink and a Karoo sunset, we once again realise how blessed we are with a fantastic evening and a sky set alight with thousands of shining stars. The donkey is at work, and a hot shower under the trees, in the open air, is our reward for a day well spent.

After a good night’s sleep, we listen to the kettle whistling again for a cup of fresh coffee to kickstart the day. We prepare a light breakfast and hit the road again. Today we’re doing the Swartberg Pass (Read the article by Tryvge Roberts on page 76 about this special pass and its rich history).

On our way back through Seweweekspoort (still impressive after the third time!), we stop often to take pictures. The Karoo offers the keen photographer many photo opportunities – from windmills and ruins, to landscapes…let alone the breath-taking stars!

For our last evening, I serve a lovely chicken pie with sweet potato chips.

There’s nothing better than relaxing around the campfire under the thorn trees, filled with nostalgia about the prospect of packing up and heading back home the next day.

But not without the perfect memories of a wonderful, blessed weekend.

The group shares the sentiment: If you’re looking for serenity, away from the hustle and bustle, Porcupine is just the place, with the added bonus of being

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CAMPING | Karoo central enough to explore.

To me, the the Karoo is perfectly portrayed by the lyrics from a song performed by the well-known Afrikaans singers Juanita du Plessis and Theuns Jordaan who sings (loosely translated): “Do you know the road to a place that leaves a mark in your soul? Do you know the meaning of togetherness on the tracks in die dry Karoo?” n

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The following products ensure a convenient camp, everytime: • SnoMaster fridge • National Luna battery system • Front Runner roofrack with accessories • Campmor tent PAGE

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The bakkie’s tailgate doubles up as a table to prepare breakfast (1).

Food fit for a king, Karoo style (2). While the potjie simmers, the chef can relax to enjoy the beautiful sunset in the Karoo (3). One of the writer’s wildest dreams realised: a ride on a traditional donkey cart in Zoar (4).

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The Swartberg Pass is for many South Africans the rubicon of gravel road passes. There is an allure and a mystique around this old pass, coupled with its status as a national monument, which elevates this pass to the very top of every adventurer’s list.

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Words & Pictures: Trygve Roberts

MOUNTAIN PASSES | Swartberg

Fact file:

GPS START GPS SUMMIT GPS END AVE GRADIENT MAX GRADIENT ELEVATION START ELEVATION SUMMIT

S33.282333 E22.052567 S33.352335 E22.046130 S33.391758 E22.109058 1:28 1:8 737m 1 575m

www.mountainpassessouthafrica.co.za

of 13 metres! This is also the kloof that was featured in the TV commercial with David Kramer, chasing his beloved Volksie Bus up one of the hairpins in his trademark red vellies.

If you get to drive this pass around sunset, this rock face glows a deep and fiery red in the setting sun and has earned itself the nickname of "Wall of Fire" and you are likely to see baboons and klipspringers, the latter which seem to float up the mountainside with no apparent effort. There are also grey roebuck, leopards and caracal – with the last two seldom being sighted.

Once up on the plateau ridge, the road climbs inexorably towards the view-site known as Teeberg.

It’s located at the apex of a very sharp right-hand bend at an altitude of 1 394m, exactly 9km from the northern start. Looking north one gets a majestic view over the 500m deep chasm that runs all the way down to Malvadraai. A little further, some green roofed buildings appear on the right of the road, almost directly below the pass summit. This was originally the site of the road camp where the convicts were housed and perished one snowy night 120 years ago, when their roof caved in.

At the 1 575m summit be prepared for cold, blustery conditions. A sticker plastered sign announces: DIE TOP. This is not the optimum view site on the pass and the weather often spoils things as the wind can really howl through the neck, often reaching gale force conditions. There are far superior view-points further along the descent.

The moment the road curves through the sharp left-hander at the summit, huge views of green fields and distant grey mountains open up. All along the descent there are wonderful examples of Thomas Bain’s perfectly constructed dry packed walls.

CAUTIONARY: The Swartberg Pass is popular with both local and international travellers as can be attested by the many hire cars that can be seen on the pass seven days per week. Tourists tend to drift completely onto the wrong side of the road as they take in the grand scenery. Be vigilant, blow your hooter as you enter a blind corner and drive with your headlights on. There are no heavy vehicles or caravans allowed. n

ELEVATION END HEIGHT GAIN/LOSS DISTANCE DIRECTION - TRAVEL TIME REQUIRED SPEED LIMIT SURFACE

865m 838m 23.8km South 60 minutes 40 - 60kph Gravel (R328)

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homas Bain’s final piece of road building, the Swartberg Pass, is very long at 23.8 km and it takes about an hour to drive, excluding stops. You will be treated to a wide variety of incredible scenery, but the pass is not suitable for anyone suffering from acrophobia.

With the quaint town of Prince Albert nearest to the pass, it offers a great day out with plenty to see, from flora to fauna, and some mind-boggling geology. The fynbos is at its best in winter and spring with proteas, ericas, restios and pin-cushions in profusion. The Swartberg Nature Reserve – at 180 000 hectares in size – offers ample activities for the whole family, including hiking, picnicking, 4x4 routes, bird-watching, swimming and just relaxing close to nature.

The Swartberg Pass was the last pass that Thomas Bain built in the Cape and it was surely his opus magnum with the final cost coming in at 14 500 pound sterling, excluding the value of convict labour, which was free. The dry packed stone walls that you will see along the length of the pass are truly impressive; the handiwork of Bain who was then at the height of his engineering prowess as a road builder.

The moment the kloof is entered from the north, the sunlight is blocked off and the mountains tower vertically up on either side of the road in a dazzling display of contorted sandstone, giving the rocks a blood red appearance, depending on the time of day.

The most troublesome part of the pass’s construction – as history has it – was at Mullers Kloof. In May 1885 a devastating flood swept across the Swartberg Mountains, washing away most of the road in the adjacent Meiringspoort and causing a long closure. Bain’s brand-new road also suffered damage, but he learned his lessons well and rebuilt the damaged sections of road further away from the river's flood levels.

About 4.5km from the northern start, there are some ruins, marked as Blikstasie (Tin Station).

These ruins were once home to the convicts who constructed the pass. From the ruins, if you look up the slope to the left of the road, you will get perfect views of the massive retaining walls that support the road ascending up Mullers Kloof. These are the most impressive of all the walls and at places reach a height

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My Ride & I

Rivers, mountains, deserts, valleys, trails… You name it, our readers have conquered them all! Herewith a selection of our favourite reader snaps their trusty sidekicks…

Send yours to us on info@4x4afrika.com

Albertus Basson 2015 Ford Ranger Wiltrak 4x4

“The two grea t loves of my li fe – Orion and my fiancé, Ang elique Muller.”

Des Paton 2010 Jeep Wrangler 3.8L Sahara “We bought Thano stock standard, where after I added about R100 000 worth of accessories and some plans to add even more!”

Marius van Romburgh 2002 Jeep Cherokee 78

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“We named him Venom because this little tjor has some serious bite.”

e e z t e o C n Via 8 .

2 x u l i H 2016 x4 MT GD6 4

nnot s, but ca e t into m a n k nic his beas t o d g in ’t n m o o welc “We d e before f li e in g ima els.” our trav

Francois du Toit 2016 Toyota Hilux Extended Cab

“We call her D are Devil beca use she is an unstoppable d aredevil who w ill overcome a obstacle.” ny

Ryan Neumann 2003 Toyota Hilux Double Cab PAGE

“My daily companion, Ruby, doubles up as my office on longer working trips while she is up to everything over weekends, exploring 4x4 trails in our area.”

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BUYER’S GUIDE Fredlin Hoist for Lifting and storing

For storing your Canopies Roof racks Rooftop tents

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Book YOUR SPACE in our BUYER’S GUIDE today!

ONCA HILUX TOWBAR

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Contact: Anton Willemse on +27 82 775 2926 or Julian Little on +27 83 702 6236 Email: info@4x4afrika.com 60 x 60

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Standard production colour of onca products are texture black. Accessories fitted to products are optional extra

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PRICES ONLY VALID FOR OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2020 We strive to ensure that, at the time of going to print, all information is correct. However, Tentco will not be held liable for any errors that may occur.

My Four-wheeled Partner

Mashozi

VEHICLE DETAILS: 1976 Land Rover Series III Lightweight The little 2.25-litre petrol engine jumps courageously to live with every single turn of the key and, without missing a beat, she is ready for the next adventure owner Johan Pfahl throws at her! Truly a worthy winner of our inaugural My Four-wheeled Partner series!

Be sure to send us your adventure vehicle’s details to stand a chance to win a Fredlin Hoist! ohan bought the Landy from a friend when he was living in Arusha in Tanzania. After having a beer in the local pub and asking for the millionth time to sell him the Landy, his friend agreed, and Johan took the keys from him then and there. Lovingly named Mashozi, after the late wife of Kingsley Holgate, Johan added an

honorary name plaque to the instrumental panel at the request from Kingsley himself.

Since taking ownership, Johan has travelled all over Tanzania with his trusty companion. He treasures amazing memories with it, of which witnessing the famous wildebeest migration in the Serengeti with his daughter rates as a highlight. When moving back to South Africa,

OWNER DETAILS: Johan Pfahl - General Manager on a private game reserve he was rather sad to leave it behind, but recently managed to bring his beloved Mashozi to Limpopo where he now resides.

This little stalwart was initially dispatched to Iran by the British military in the late 1970s, from where it found its way to Tanzania where it was converted to a lefthand drive. Johan will soon be swopping the steering back to the original position and register it here in South Africa. n

Win with Adventure Afrika & Fredlin What is the point of driving around with your roof rack or rooftop tent when facing your daily commute in city traffic, only dreaming of your next adventure? Not only do you run the risk of damaging you gear, your fuel consumption will likely be much higher as a result of extra weight. But where to store it out of harm’s way?

Enter the Fredlin hoist. A proudly South African product, it solves the problem of where to stow away your rooftop tent, roof rack or even a sports car hardtop. The innovative product fastens securely to your garage roof or carport to ensure neat and secure storage, out of the way. Easy to install and to operate by one person, this is the solution you have been waiting for. For more information, head over to www.fredlin.co.za or contact them on +27 82 553 0555 / sales@fredlin.co.za How to enter?

Simply send an image – minimum 1MB in size – of you and your vehicle, out and about on an adventure (no curb climbing driving shots, please!) to info@4x4afrika.com and details on the following: • Name and occupation of the owner • Year model and derivative of the vehicle • Any modifications made or planned future modifications • Favourite memory/trip with your vehicle • Favourite destination • Your bucket-list trip • Your bucket-list modification • Your top tip for fellow adventurers and explorers T&C’s:

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• • •

The decision regarding featured entries rests solely with the Adventure Afrika team, and no correspondence will be entered into.

Should the promoter withdraw the prize sponsorship, Adventure Afrika reserves the right to publish any entries without awarding any prize.

Adventure Afrika and Fredlin retain the right to use any image submitted in promotional or marketing material developed for this campaign on any suitable platforms.

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JHB/E

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