Summer Vogue_2019

Vogue

Brazilian Footwear

SUMMER Brazilian Footwear www.vogue.com.br

2019 From sporty to the new boho:

251 sandals, mules, doublestrap sandals, flats and pumps TUNED with this season’s trends

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Shoes, Loucos & Santos

Editor-in-chief silvia rogar Fashion Director Barbara Katz Migliori Style Director Donata Meirelles Deputy-editor camila garcia Digital Director antonia petta Fashion Executive Producer mONICA BORGES Stylists FABIANA LEITE and GIOVANNA GRASSI Executive Assitant Marcia Caetano Art Art Editor BRUNA BISMARA Designers saul sales y PAUL Diether Haertel

40 tropical chic editorial

Contributors LETÍCIA PIMENTA (editor), MICHELLE FABISZAK (text), ALINNE ANNO (ART), DÉBORA ISLAS (ART), ALICE RODRIGUES, CARLA GIORDANI, denny sach, Luana chinazzo, DANIELA MÔNACO, DANIELA SALGADO, gloria garcia, heloisa lacerda, hick duarte, IVAN ERICK, jaime alves, jake falchi, julia aguiar, LARISSA DANTAS, letícia masselli, LIÉGE WISNIEWSKI, ligia carvalhosa, Nathalí isquierdo, robson khalaf, ruisa scheffel, thiago ferraz,THIAGO JUSTO, vinicius coni, XICO BUNY

6. Business Marketing and Advertising Marketing director GIULIANA SESSO Marketing Manager Bruna Gama Marketing Specialist catarina Dickstein Marketing Assistants ANA JULIA RIOS and CAMILA DIAS Marketing and Events Coordinator ANDREA SABINO Marketing and Events Assistant RICARDO FROZONI Advertising Business Director LUCIANO RIBEIRO (lribeiro@globocondenast.com.br) Managers of Multimedia Business MARINA CALADO (mcalado@globocondenast.com.br) and SILVIA CORDEIRO (scordeiro@globocondenast.com.br) Market Intelligence Consultant DANIELLA GALUPPI (dgaluppi@globocondenast.com.br ) and ELIZANDRA PAIVA (epaiva@globocondenast.com.br) Executives of Multimedia Business ANDRÉ BARRETO (aebarreto@globocondenast.com.br), ALESSANDRA HIDALGO (ahidalgo@globocondenast.com.br), CAMILA RODER (croder@globocondenast.com.br), CATIA VALESE (cvalese@globocondenast.com.br), ELEONORA CARVALHAL (eleonorac@globocondenast.com.br), FLAVIA GOZOLI (flaviag@globocondenast.com.br), LUIZ GOMIDE (lgomide@globocondenast.com.br) and NATHÁLIA RODRIGUES (nbarbosa@globocondenast.com.br) Asistant Adversiting CAROLINA GARDIN (cgardin@globocondenast.com.br) Special Project Manager ANITA CASTANHEIRA (acastanheira@globocondenast.com.br) Special Project Specialist JAQUELINE FERNANDES (jaqueof@globocondenast.com.br) Special Project Analist KARINA MENDES (kmcardoso@globocondenast.com.br) and RAPHAEL MIRANDA (rmiranda@globocondenast.com.br) Art Coordinator AUDIANE AMADA (audianea@globocondenast.com.br) CONTENT: Editor RENATA PIZA (rpiza@globocondenast.com.br, Art Specialist RAONI FELIX (raonif@globocondenast.com.br), Production Assistant LARISSA CARVALHO (larissacs@globocondenast.com.br) Specialist in Financial Planning and Control WUDSON MAZALLA (wmazalla@globocondenast.com.br) Market Intelligence Specialist DANIEL CHICOTE (dchicote@globocondenast.com.br) Opec Coordinator DIEGO RIQUE (drique@globocondenast.com.br) Opec Analists JOHN LUIZ DOS SANTOS (johns@globocondenast.com.br) and RAFAEL MILITELLO (rmilitello@globocondenast.com.br) Planning and Production Control Roberto Apolinário (rapolinario@globocondenast.com.br) Centralized Advertising Advertising Director VIRGINIA ANY Brand Consultant OLIVIA BOLONHA Directors of Multimedia Business RENATO CASSIS SINISCALCO, CIRO HASHIMOTO and EMILIANO HANSENN Advertising Rio de Janeiro and Brasília Managers of Multimedia Business - RJ Marcelo Lima, Renata Aguiar Melo and Leonardo Campos André Executives of Multimedia Business - DF Luiz Manso and Barbara Costa Regional Advertising Coustryside of the State of São Paulo: H2F Midia (Humberto Vicentini): +55 (19) 99718 8478 comercial@h2fmidia.com.br Minas Gerais: ON E OFF MÍDIA (Rodrigo Longuinho): +55 (31) 3223-1839/ +55 (31) 99124-0525 rlonguinho@oneoffmidia.com.br Paraná/Santa Catarina: YAGUAR PUBLICIDADE E REPRESENTAÇÕES LTDA (Jean Luc Jadoul): + 55 (41) 3336-4619 jeanluc@yaguar.com.br Rio Grande do Sul: JAZZ REPRESENTAÇÕES (Patrícia Koops): +55 (51) 99792-9898/ +55 (51) 3030-7777 pkoops@jazz.ppg.br North and Northeast: A G HOLANDA COMUNICAÇÃO LTDA (Agimiro Holanda): +55 (85) 3224-2367/+55 (85) 99983-3472 agholanda@agholanda.com.br Bahia: MUSA MÍDIA E PLANEJAMENTO (Diana Falcão Franco): +55 (71) 98119-6750/dfalcao@musamidia.com.br/ Grow: +55 (71) 98207-1986/grow@musamidia.com.br Milan: MR. ANGELO CAREDDU – Oberon Media: (39) 02-874543 contact@oberonmedia.com London: MR. LEONARDO CAREDDU – Oberon Media: (44) 07766256830 leonardo@oberonmedia.com New York/Miami: MR. ALESSANDRO CREMONA – Condé Nast Internacional: (212) 380 8236 alessandro_cremona@condenast.com Switzerland: MRS. AMELIA GUERCIO – Magazine International: (41) 22716-5600 aguercio@magazineinternational.ch Digital Strategies Digital Content Manager Marcela tavares (mtavares@globocondenast.com.br) and ALESSANDRA BLANCO (ablanco@globocondenast.com.br) Analist FERNANDO ARAÚJO (fcarvalho@globocondenast.com.br) Video editor CECÍLIA CUSSIOLI (ccussioli@globocondenast.com.br)

The 20th edition of Vogue Brazilian Footwear

9. Best-sellers

Mules, sneakers, sandals, platforms, moccasins and clogs for the summer

30. Fashion Tour

The latest trends in Brazilian footwear

34. Front Row

Urias Francisco Cintra, Democrata’s CEO, talks about his journey as an entrepreneur

38. Trends

From the 80’s to girly plaids, here’s our selection of trendy looks for the summer

40. Fashion

Tropical chic: from earthy shades to metallics, shoes to complement all summer looks, from boho to artsy Best buddies: from the comeback of double-strap sandals to clogs, here are this season’s must-haves Make-believe: From pop art to camouflage, sneakers and sandals to have fun in the sun

82. P.S.

Rope sandals for your summer vacation ganham efeito aquarelado

our cover

Photographed by Ivan Erick, Isis Bataglia wears dress, Dolce & Gabbana; earrings, B l Antique at Espaço Pinga and sandals, Bléque. Styling: Fabiana Leite. Beauty: Liege Wisniewski. Fashion producers: Vinicius Coni and Julia Aguiar.

Special thanks to: Cão Modelo Agência

Digital Archive and Syndication Stephanie Mourad (sgmourad@globocondenast.com.br) Board of Directors COSTANZA PASCOLATO, FREDERIC ZOGHAIB KACHAR Board of Administration FREDERIC ZOGHAIB KACHAR, jonathan newhouse, KARINA DOBROTVORSKAYA, Rafael Menin Soriano, Cristiane Delecrode Ribeiro, rODRIGO PAVONI, LUCIANO TOUGUINHA DE CASTRO VOGUE BRAZILIAN FOOTWEAR is a publication of Edições Globo Condé Nast S.A. Av. Nove de Julho, 5.229, tel. +55 (11) 2322-4600, fax +55 (11) 2322-4699, CEP 01407-907, São Paulo, SP SUBSCRIPTIONS São Paulo: + 55 (11) 3362-2000. Other locations: +55 (11) 4003-9393* Fax: +55 (11) 3766-3755 Monday to Friday, 8am to 9pm and Saturdays from 8am to 3pm www.assineglobo.com.br CUSTOMER SERVICE: www.sacglobo.com.br *Local connection cost. Check the availability in your city.

Supplement sponsored by the Brazilian Footwear program/Abicalçados, in collaboration with Apex-Brasil

Photographed by Hick Duarte and Ivan Erick

CEO DANIELA FALCÃO

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apresentação introduction

On the right path T

he magazine you are about to read received the ‘special edition’ treatment. It is the 20th issue of Vogue Brazilian Footwear, a successful collaborative project between Vogue and Brazilian Footwear, a program designed by the Brazilian Footwear Industries Association (Abicalçados) in partnership with the Brazilian Trade and Investment Promotion Agency (Apex-Brasil). The seal of approval of the world’s most famous fashion brand is an efficient sales tool, helping national companies promote their products and facilitating business abroad. The special supplement, distributed at major fairs, showrooms and events around the globe, is the theme of this issue’s opening feature and brings the 19 covers ever produced for the magazine – hard to pick a favorite.

And the celebration goes on with the section Front Row: Urias Francisco Cintra, founder of Democrata, participating brand in the Vogue Brazilian Footwear project since its first edition, explains how he created

a company in his own backyard in Franca, Sao Paulo.

The interview shows his journey towards success and how the brand became a reference in the business of men’s leather shoes, with a line for every occasion and an annual revenue of R$ 230 million.

A special edition is also a great excuse for new additions. In this issue, we incorporated the section Fashionista, from Vogue. The first interview brings the American digital influencer, singer and photographer Tessa Barton, who came to Brazil for the first time earlier this year, to attend the Fashion Bloggers, promoted by the Brazilian Footwear project.

Always in sync with the latest trends, our fashion editorials bring the styles that will make a huge comeback this summer, like the double-strap sandals for men, clogs and plastic shoes - the material was a major hit on international catwalks and will take the streets this season. From page 9 on, it is time to enjoy everyone’s favorite time of the year with our unique selection of shoes that will invade Brazilian closets this summer.

Isis Bataglia wears dress, Zara; belt, Cris Barros and slippers, Ipanema in the “Best Buddies” editorial

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business

Photo published in the 12th edition of Vogue Footwear, in July 2014

It’s party time!

To celebrate the 20th edition of Vogue Brazilian Footwear, we take a look back at the history of the project that helps to promote Brazilian footwear industry abroad by letícia pimenta

W

hen Vogue Brazilian Footwear was published for the first time in the winter of 2009, it caused a frisson in the Brazilian footwear industry. After all, from that moment on, all the participating labels would have their designs promoted by the world’s most famous fashion brand. The magazine, well-received by the market since its first edition, is the result of a collaboration with the Brazilian Footwear program, developed by the Brazilian Footwear Industries Association (Abicalçados) in partnership with the Brazilian Trade

and Investment Promotion Agency (ApexBrasil),to promote the industry and facilitate international business,and brings editorials with the season’s top trends, pages with the latest in shoes and accessories and articles on both domestic and internacional markets.“Buyers look for renowned brands, popular among consumers. With Vogue, Brazilian companies have a very important competitive advantage and relevance in the media, because their products are selected and approved by the magazine editorial team,says Roberta Ramos,project manager at Abicalçados.

The two annual editions,one in the summer, and another one in the winter,were planned

to be published in English since the very beginning,aimed at reaching global markets.

Vogue Brazilian Footwear is distributed at the major fairs and events where Brazilian Footwear is present, such as FN Platform, in Las Vegas; Micam, in Milan; and Colombiamoda, in Medellin; besides being sent to international buyers, influencers and Brazilian Footwear PR agencies in the United States, Colombia, China and the United Arab Emirates.In Brazil,it is published as a supplement of Vogue,currently in March and September. In 2017,the Spanish version was incorporated into the project, to focus on other markets, selected as priorities by the Brazilian Footwear, like Colombia.

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Photo credit: Vogue archives/ Marcel Valvassori and publicity.

Brands like Radamés,which have been in the project since the beginning, say that the magazine has become a very important sales tool. “We manufacture high-quality products, very fashionoriented. I usually show the magazine, in which our designs are shown in a classy, sophisticated way, to justify our prices, a little higher than our competitors.Vogue Brazilian Footwear has taken our company to the next level”, says Maurício Ávila, export manager at Radamés. Werner Júnior, marketing director at Werner,also part of the project since its first editions,says the publication has been of great help, since it reaches potential clients,especially the ones that didn’t use to buy Brazilian shoes.“Some Italian and French companies, for instance,got to know our brand through the magazine and are now very interested in our products.”

Throughout these years,the 20 issues of the magazine followed the editorial mission changes and graphic design evolution of Vogue, incorporating some of the sections that highlight not only the products but the major players in the footwear market. Front Row, for example, is a section that presents the profiles of CEOs and founders of the main Brazilian companies; Fashion Tour, on the other hand, brings the brands’ latest releases for the upcoming season.This issue will bring the section Fashionista for the first time, with the profile of the American influencer Tessa Barton, who came to Brazil to attend a Brazilian Footwear event.

Constantly working on innovations to meet the market demands, the program has been taking steps towards strengthening the presence of the magazine on digital platforms. A new website was created on brazilianfootwear. com, where the contents of the print magazine are available online, along with some materials developed especially for the digital platform, such as interviews with Vogue stylists about the season’s must-haves and animated videos featuring the products.“Nowadays, it is essential to be online in order to reach more and more different countries abroad, and so that buyers can access this exclusive Vogue content at any time”, explains Alice Rodrigues, coordinator at Abicalçados Image Promotion Unit.Long live Vogue Brazilian Footwear. Cheers!

The time tunnel

2009

2014

With two annual editions (summer and winter), Vogue Brazilian Footwear brings fashion editorials, features and the profiles of the major players in the industry, in Portuguese, English and Spanish versions

2010

2015

2011

2016

2012

2017

2013

2018

VOGUE BRAZILIAN FOOTWEAR 7

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best-sellers INVOICE

Special thanks to: vista alegre (taças)

werner

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See it through One of this season’s hits, plastic adds a futuristic vibe to summer outfits by heloisa lacerda Photographed by jaime alves

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best-sellers

Photographed by Xico Buny Vogue Archives/ Mariano Vivanco Stylists: Fabiana Leite and Daniela Mônaco Assistant photographer: Henrique Godoy

BOTTERO

VALENTINA SHOES

USAFLEX

loucos & santos

The 70’s revival Clogs return to fashion bringing that boho vibe to your closet this season

NEW FACE

DI VALENTINI

bléque

LUZ DA LUA

SCHUTZ

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la femme

valentino

chanel

valentina shoes

All clear A major hit on international catwalks last season, plastic makes a comeback and see-through pastel shoes are perfect to style fresh looks this summer

di valentini

Photographed by Xico Buny and Imaxtree Stylists: Fabiana Leite and Daniela Mônaco Assistant photographer: Henrique Godoy

INVOICE

suzana santos

CECCONELLO

werner DIVALESI

via marte

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best-sellers

DIVALESI

JORGE BISCHOFF

RAMARIM

hotographed by Xico Buny Stylists: Fabiana Leite and Daniela Mônaco Assistant photographer: Henrique Godoy

BOTTERO

DUMOND

bléque

In style, 24/7 Bet on wide-strap sandals and block heels for maximum comfort at all times

TABITA

VELENO

PICCADILLY OPANANKEN

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indiana BRAZIL

dumond

block heels

viZZANO

Photographed by Xico Buny, Renata Chede/Vogue Archives Stylists: Fabiana Leite and Daniela Mônaco Assistant photographer: Henrique Godoy

Shine bright

valentina shoes

Let gold make a powerful statement and complete both casual and dressy looks by adding a metallic touch flats

moleca

sneakers

cravo & canela

capodarte

cecconello

di valentini

beira rio CONFORTO VOGUE BRAZILIAN FOOTWEAR 13

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RAMARIM

VICENZA

LUZ DA LUA

invoice

LA FEMME

VIZZANO

Classic with a twist Stone embellishments, textures, bows and patent leather put a modern spin on the already versatile pointy-toe flats

VEROFATTO

PICCADILLY

TABITA

SUZANA SANTOS

Photographed by Xico Buny Stylists: Fabiana Leite and Daniela Mônaco Assistant photographer: Henrique Godoy

best-sellers

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Heels off

Super versatile, flat mules update both casual and romantic looks.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY thiago justo

CASUAL

StyliST: Daniela Mônaco BeAUTY: Fernando Haddad Set designER: Larissa Dantas (@_lset) FASHION PRODUCER: Nathalí Isquierdo

ladylike

From left to right, Julia wears sweatshirt, Adidas Originals; pants, Adidas Originals; earrings, Lool; handbag, Loucos & Santos; mules, La Femme. Ana wears top, Forever 21; skirt, Cris Barros; sunglasses, Max Mara; earrings, Lool; mules Vicenza.

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beira rio conforto

andacco

verofatto

capodarte

luz da lua

werner

ramarim

MODARE ULTRACONFORTO

tabita

Photographed by Xico Buny Stylists: Fabiana Leite and Daniela Mônaco Assistant photographer: Henrique Godoy

best-sellers

Cutting edge Laser-cut detailing add a bold touch to classic styles

azaleia 16 VOGUE BRAZILIAN FOOTWEAR

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Fhotographed by Xico Buny / Vogue Archives stylists: Fabiana Leite and Daniela Mônaco Assistant photographer: Henrique Godoy

BOTTERO

LOUCOS & SANTOS

Always a classic Strappy sandals add a delicate touch to your look, besides having leg-lengthening super powers

CAPODARTE

PICCADILLY

WERNER

SCHUTZ

LUZ DA LUA

INVOICE

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best-sellers

FLATFORMS

vizzano

bottero

divalesi

Natural fibers

Bring that easy-chic vibe to your summer days with our unique selection of raffia flatforms and platforms

PLATFORMS

di valentini

usaflex

loucos & santos

werner

Verofatto

modare ultraconforto

Photographed by Xico Buny Stylists: Fabiana Leite and Daniela Mônaco Assistant photographer: Henrique Godoy

perky shoes

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bottero

cravo & canela

via marte

photographed by Xico Buny / Imaxtree Stylists: Fabiana Leite and Daniela MĂ´naco Assistant photographer: Henrique Godoy

moleca

vizzano

Have fun

Pumps, sneakers and flats featuring bold colors and drawings are perfect to complement your summer looks

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artsy divalesi

Beira Rio conforto perky shoes

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best-sellers

loucos &santos

di valentini

Sporty chic Change high heels and sandals for sneakers this summer and put a more casual spin on your looks

bottero

vicenza

piccadilly valentina shoes

suzana santos cravo & canela

ramarim

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Photographed by Xico Buny, Vogue Archives Stylists: Fabiana Leite and Daniela MĂ´naco Assistant photographer: Henrique Godoy

luz da lua

cecconello

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Beyond the treadmill Sneakers that go from the office to cocktail parties enjoy our selection!

Stylist: Daniela Mônaco Beauty: Fernando Haddad Set designer: Larissa Dantas (@_lset) fashion producer: Nathalí Isquierdo cadeiras: isto é brasil

PHOTOGRaphed by thiago justo

From left to right, Ana wears blazer, Amissima; sweater, Tory Burch; earrings, Lool; sneakers, Capodarte.

Julia wears T-shirt, Adidas Original; skirt, Framed no Gallerist; sunglasses, Helena Bordon; handbag, Capodarte; sneakers, Dumond; earrings, Lool

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work

leisure

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best-sellers

Bibi

Klin

special thanks to: picolés jundiá

must-have

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Welcome, summer!

Complement this summer’s outfits with white sandals featuring colorful details

by heloisa lacerda Photographed by jaime alves

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best-sellers

POW!

klin

Patterns inspired by pop art are perfect to complement monochromatic looks

contramão

pampili

molekinha

Seven colors Sandals and flats in the rainbow palette are even more stylish this summer

klin

bibi

pampili ortopé

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Photographed by Xico Buny / Getty Images Stylists: Fabiana Leite and Daniela Mônaco Assistant photographer: Henrique Godoy

molekinha

klin

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pampili

ipanema

contramão

A walk in the zoo Animal-themed shoes will invade kids’ closets this season, bringing colors, creatures and lots of fun

perky SHOES ortopé

bibi

molekinhO

ortopé

diversão

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best-sellers must-have

Easy chic

Comfort is back in fashion and so are the double-strap sandals. Enjoy the summer in style by fabiana leite photographed by xico buny

Set designers: Fabiana Leite and Xico Buny. Assistant photographer: Henrique Godoy

opananken

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west coast

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best-sellers

Ideal match

Complete men’s looks this season with colorful sneakers, moccasins, ankle boots and sandals for different occasions

kildare DEMOCRATA

nav y

savelli pegada

radamés

ferricelli

explorer

democrata

ferracini 24h

andacco

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Photographer: Xico Buny/Vogue archives, Fábio Sarraff/ GQ Archives, Ricardo Abrahão, Jair Lanes, Rafael Pavaroti. Stylists: Fabiana Leite and Daniela Mônaco. Assistant photographer: Henrique Godoy.

itapuã

geek

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democrata

democrata

rider

savelli

cartago

west coast

opananken

itapuã

KONTATTO

casual

west coast

andacco

öus

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fashiontour THE BIGGEST – AND THE HOTTEST – TRENDS IN BRAZILIAN FASHION

FOR HIM

Capodarte, one of the brands from Paquetá Calçados, launches its first line for men, Capodarte Uomo, with classic designs and the sophistication present in the brand’s DNA. This first collection celebrates its entrance into the market, featuring oxfords, sneakers, brogues, moccasins and loafers, besides accessories like belts, wallets, cosmetic nécessaire and backpacks. One of the collection’s highlights are the boat shoes, an updated version of classic docksides and oxfords. “The concept of products for the whole family is in our brand’s identity.

And after launching Piccoli, a line designed specially for kids, now it’s time to invest in men”, says Gabriela Hoss, marketing manager at Capodarte. capodarte.com

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PHOTOGRAPHED BY THIAGO JUSTO STYLING: DANIELA MÔNACO BEAUTY: FERNANDO HADDAD SET DESIGNER: LARISSA DANTAS (@_LSET) FASHION PRODUCER: NATHALÍ ISQUIERDO BIKE: VELA BIKES

CAPODARTE

Mateus wears jacket and t-shirt, both Levi’s; pants, Hugo Boss; sunglasses, Carrera; shoes, Capodarte

JORGE BISCHOFF

SNAKE IN THE GRASS

One of Jorge Bischoff’s greatest hits, the Luxo Legítimo collection, featuring exclusive styles made of python skin now comprises styles for men.

Besides, there are new colors in the summer palette: aqua, blue and red, adding some freshness to the collection’s pumps, peep toes, mules, flats, handbags and backpacks.

All the items are made of python skin imported from Malaysia and Indonesia, and are Ibama certified. jorgebischoff.com

CECCONELLO

NEW HORIZONS

After celebrating more than 10 thousand pairs of shoes sold online in 2017, Cecconello is ready to expand its e-commerce reach and explore international markets, mainly in the United States, betting on four major trends: Power Girls, with chunky heels and maxi buckles; Natural Boho, with lace detailing and natural threads; Office Core, with sneakers, stripes and see-through details; and Arabian Chic, inspired by the Muslim culture, with lots of silver, gold and stone embellishments. cecconello-shoes.com

JORGE BISCHOFF FOR MEN AND CECCONELLO IN THE UNITED STATES PAMPILI

FASHION CREATURES Pampili bets on backpacks and shoes

featuring unique prints and four exclusive characters (Passarinha, a little bird; Corujinha, a cute owl; Pinguim, a small penguin; and Coelhinha, a beautiful bunny), that come in egg-shaped boxes, to be this season’s major hit. For older girls, the products come in a customized can, also a great idea for a gift, available in four different colors: pink, light purple, hot pink and white. pampili.com.br

BLÉQUE

BY MICHELLE FABISZAK PHOTO CREDIT: PUBLICITY

HIGH TIDE

Besides having its famous styles made of tilapia and pirarucu skin, Bléque brings new materials this summer. Renata Negrão, the brand’s designer presents the “sedapet” (made from 50% silk threads and 50% PET bootle threads) and the “recicle” ( 80% cotton and 20% silk) along with their newest collection Entremarés. The collection takes inspiration from the ocean and the palette has colors like apricot, azalea, straw and sky blue. Ocean-inspired beach bags complement the look. bleque.com.br VOGUE BRAZILIAN FOOTWEAR 31

PERKY SHOES

HERE COMES THE SUN

Inspired by the multicolored double-strap sandals designed in partnership with the stylist and blogger from Rio de Janeiro Juju Lattuca, Perky Shoes releases a new style for the hot days of summer. Available in black or in a multicolored version, they hit stores in September, and go up to size 44. perkyshoes.com

CONTRAMÃO

GREEN WAVE Artisanal crochet products, handmade from raw cotton threads, are Contramão’s latest releases for the summer.

The pieces are all sustainable and feature floral and stripe fabrics and straw. One of the collection’s highlights is the set above, perfect to complete girls’ looks. contramao.com.br

THE NEW SCHUTZ STORE IN NEW YORK AND BIBI’S SUSTAINABLE COLLECTION LA FEMME

FLOWER POWER

La Femme, a renowned expert in the production of stone embellished flats, in the market for ten years, now releases sandals with satin floral-print scarves, as part of the Aqua summer collection.

Versatile, they can be worn with or without the scarves to complement casual looks in style this season. lafemmecalcados. com.br

BIBI

BEAUTIFUL CREATURES

Crias is one of Bibi’s standout collections this summer. A sustainable project, curated by stylist Isabela Capeto, the collection features adorable animals made entirely from leftover materials, such as fabric and leather, embellishing a unisex style of sneakers, in navy blue.

When purchasing the product, kids can choose two “creatures” to adorn their sneakers, attached by velcro bands. bibi.com 32 VOGUE BRAZILIAN FOOTWEAR

SCHUTZ

IN THE BIG APPLE Schutz opens its first pop-up store in SoHo, New York, and releases its new summer campaign starring supermodel Adriana Lima. The shop features many technological innovations, such as radiofrequency identification mirrors, that provide realtime customer feedback experience, and a special selection of shoes, also available online and at the brand’s other stores in New York, on Madison Avenue, and in L.A, on Beverly Drive. schutz-shoes.com

OPANANKEN

STEPPING ON CLOUDS Opananken has just launched a new removable insole, the Air Latex, to make its collections even more comfortable. Imported from Spain, they are antibacterial, help avoid excessive heat and keep feet dry, besides being eco-friendly since they are recyclable. Air bubbles are injected into the latex during the manufacturing process for ultra-soft cushioning and shock-absorption. opananken.com.br

VELENO

ART GALLERY

KLIN

The brand from Rio de Janeiro launches a collection inspired by the 70’s style, featuring raffia, tressé, straw, pirarucu and python skin and products made of vegetable-tanned leather, which is biodegradable.

Besides all that, the 2018/2019 season kicks off with a new project for the brand’s store in Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro. Designed by Gigi Barreto, famous scenic designer, the brand’s headquarter resembles an art gallery, with special lightening and décor. veleno.com.br

PHOTO CREDIT: PUBLICITY

BABY ON BOARD

Klin has just launched a new maternity line featuring vanity cases, bags and backpacks in sober tones, to match the new mothers’ looks. They are celebrating their 35th anniversary with the Comfort Certification, issued by the Brazilian Institute of Technology for Leather, Footwear and Artifacts. The brand complied with 96% of the comfort requirements, from a minimum of 75% established by the Institute. klin.com.br VOGUE BRAZILIAN FOOTWEAR 33

front row

Democrata’s CEO Urias Francisco Cintra, poses at the brand’s store in Ribeirão Preto

Step by step

S

elf-made man behind Democrata, Urias Francisco Cintra had many ups and downs in the process of becoming a very successful businessman in the Brazilian footwear industry.Despite having attended school only up to the fourth grade, he started working as a shoemaker to help his family, fell in love with the job and, since he had an innate talent for entrepreneurship, ended up creating a brand that became a reference in the business of men’s leather shoes. Nowadays, his company exports to more than 50 countries in the five continents, having an annual revenue of R$ 230 million.

Eighth child in a family with twelve brothers and sisters, he left his hometown Claraval, in the state of Minas Gerais in 1965 at the age of 12, and moved to a ranch in Franca, Sao Paulo, a little more than 20 kilometers away from his old house. His family used to make a living by farming corn, beans and rice. Six months after they moved,his father died unexpectedly and his mother became the main provider of the family.The boy then, came up with the idea of asking her to cook so that he could work selling her dishes.

In order to help providing for his family, Urias joined the workforce when

he was a teenager. He got his first job as a shoemaker at a factory called Spessoto Calçados. “By that time, many important footwear companies were already based in Franca. And I started sewing shoes”, he explains. Five years later, completely in love with his job, he was able to master all the manufacturing process and decided to open his own company with his brother José. While he was responsible for the production line, his brother would take care of the business itself. “Things were going well financially, but we didn’t know how to manage the company, we did not have any experience in administration.”

photo credit: publicity

Urias Francisco Cintra started his career as a shoemaker at a very early age, fell in love with his job and founded Democrata, in Franca, a city in the state of Sao Paulo. Here, he shares his journey towards entrepreneurship por michelle Fabiszak foto robson khalaf

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As the brothers closed their first company, Urias got jobs in other factories,working as a shoemaker,manager and general supervisor, but he never lost his entrepreneurial side.

In 1983, he decided to create a new brand “now with a good business plan and administration strategies, but no working capital”. And that is how he opened his second company in his own backyard in Franca. Some time later, he was able to hire two employees, rented a 100m shed, asked for some loans and founded Diplomata Calçados. “I set my goals: to start my production with ten pairs a day and as soon as I reached 40 pairs a day, I’d stop using other people’s capital.”

The plan worked. Two years later, his brand depended exclusively on its own revenues. At the same time, another company’s attorney came up to him and told him the name Diplomata Calçados was already registered and he would have to find another one. “I told him I would change my company’s name if he suggested a name and a logo that I liked. So, he came up with Democrata, that sounded a lot like the previous one. I agreed right away”.The brand, headquartered in Franca, was one of the pioneers to combine the comfort in sneakers with the design in dress shoes, investing in new technologies like insoles with air bubble to absorb impact, internal heels and a special kind of leather,with elasticity to adapt perfectly to the shape of the feet. Democrata also invested in marketing campaigns, hiring Brazilian celebrities like actors Cauã Reymond and Reynaldo Gianecchini, and TV hostess Adriane Galisteu, the only woman present in one of the company’s campaigns, besides Spanish photographer living in Brazil, J.R. Duran.

Until 1993, when 800 pairs of shoes were manufactured daily, Urias used to run the business practically by himself. Maria Aparecida, his sister, and Carlos Roberto, his brother, joined the company then, as an accountant and finance director,respectively.

In October, 1997, he opened the brand’s second factory in Camuci,Ceará,and,in 2006, the third, in the city of Santa Quitéria, also in Ceará. Little by little, Urias’s heirs started to join the company as well. His daughter Kamila, who has a degree in fashion from Central Saint Martins, in London, took over the style and marketing teams.His youngest daughter Cintia will join the company soon, right after she finishes her materials engineering course at the same institution.

Nowadays, Democrata employs more than 1,800 direct workers and not a single

phase of the production is outsourced: they would rather take care of all the details to make sure products have top quality, from the production line to marketing.Currently, there are 31 franchise stores in Brazil and four abroad: in Argentina,Ecuador,Paraguay and Indonesia. The company started exporting to the United States in 1992 and 23% of the products are sold to other countries nowadays. Part of the Vogue Brazilian Footwear project since the first edition of the magazine, Urias says it has been a very important partnership both to promote the brand and to consolidate its position in the market. Featuring four segments of products – Denim, Garage, Metropolitan and Smart Comfort (see chart) – and more than 45 different lines,Democrata has some projects for 2019 already in progress, such as increasing the number of franchise stores, and exploring a brand new market, which is still a secret.

In Franca,where Urias lives with his wife Maria Helena and their kids – he also has a boy named Frederico –, the day starts pretty early. The businessman wakes up at 6 to run and do bodybuilding, besides his sacred meditation sessions before going to work.

Life has changed a bit since Urias’s parents arrived in the city more than 50 years ago.

But he managed to keep the simple essence of the boy who used to sell mom’s food in order to provide for his family and never got lost on the way to success. “I don’t see myself as the owner of a successful company.

Whenever people ask me what I do for a living, I usually say I’m a shoemaker.”

best-sellers

Denim line (below) features a casual line of shoes, which is one of the brand’s four segments. Democrata also manufactures products for every occasion, including boots, moccasins, sandals and oxfords.

in the world

Currently, Democrata employs 1,800 people, having an annual revenue of R$ 230 million and exporting to more than 50 countries. The brand was one of the pioneers to combine the comfort in sneakers with the design in dress shoes.

Photo of Democrata’s winter 2018 campaign

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Blouse, Cris Barros; pants, Dolce & Gabbana, earrings, Paola Vilas at Espaço Pinga and sandals, Vicenza

TOTAL IMMERSION For the first time in Brazil, the American singer, photographer and digital influencer Tessa Barton attends the Fashion Bloggers event, promoted by Brazilian Footwear, and falls in love with the national design BY LIGIA CARVALHOSA PHOTOGRAPHED BY DENNY SACH

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STYLISTS: FABIANA LEITE AND DANIELA MÔNACO BEAUTY: LIEGE WISNIEWSKI ASSISTANT STYLIST: LUIZ BONASSOLI FASHION ASSISTANT: GABRIELA BIRIOLI ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER: JOE SANTOS BEAUTY ASSISTANT: MOISÉS COSTA

fashionista

13/06/2018 13:51:05

wasabi

salinas

andacco

vicenza

artsy DESIGNS

Colorful graphic designs in a bold mix of vibrant tones are one of this season’s major hits - and call for technicolor pieces to accessorize them.

BLAZING

HOT! uv line

From the 80’s to girly plaids, here’s our selection of trendy looks for the summer - and the perfect shoes to complement them

Show off some skin

Cropped bustiers are still in fashion. Pair them with super high-waisted jeans and choose flats over high heels for a more flattering look.

von trapp

beira rio conforto

tabita

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Big shoulders and puffed sleeves make a comeback this season - and some of the classics can be incorporated into your day-to-day wardrobe.

Pair pieces made of natural fabrics, in soft shades, with flatforms and rope sandals for an updated version of the 80’s look.

keymono project

wymann

haight

The 80’s

invoice

jorge bischoff

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cecconello

amir slama

apartamento 03 LILLY SANTI

azaleia

Fringe trim

B&W Beach

Bet on the classic combination of black and white to renew your beach wardrobe. Complete your outfit with slingback sandals and give your feet a break from flip-flops this summer.

água de coco

A.NIEMEYER

REINALDO LOURENÇO

Pieces with artisanal textures are perfect complements to handcrafted accessories, such as laser-cut sandals in natural shades.

CRAVO & CANELA

grendha PICCADILLY

Girly plaids

ipanema

Iconic symbol of the grunge movement, plaid patterns come back to fashion, as a desirable addition to women’s closets. Reinvent the classic rocker style or ladylike looks and pair plaid dresses and skirts with ultra comfortable sneakers.

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tropical

chic

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From earthy shades to metallics, Flats, mules, clogs, sandals and pumps invade wardrobes this summer and complete looks that go From boho to artsy photographed by Hick Duarte (thinkers mgt) styling tHiago Ferraz (thinkers mgt)

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Best buddies

From the comeback of double-strap sandals for him, to a selection of clogs for her, here are next season’s must-haves.

Photographed by ivan erick STYLING fabiana leite

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Isis Bataglia wears shirt, Zara; pants Carolina Herrera; sandals, Azaleia.

Gael Sonkin wears shirt, Hugo Boss; shorts, Versace; sandals, Savelli.

Opposite, shirt, Osklen; pants, Hugo Boss; sneakers, Ferracini 24h

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Shirt, Animale; skirt, Brunello Cucinelli; earrings, B l Antique at Espaรงo Pinga; sandals, Piccadilly.

Opposite, she wears dress Osklen; earrings Abi Project at the Gallerist; shoes, Dumond.

He wears overcoat and shorts, both Versace; T-shirt, Ocksa; sliders, Rider

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Jacket and shoes, both ÖUS; pants, Handred. On the dog, shoe, Democrata. Opposite, she wears dress, Cris Barros; scarf, Louis Vuitton; sandals, Veleno. He wears vest, Cotton Project; pants, Versace; boots, Ferricelli

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Scarf, Louis Vuitton; sandals, West Coast. Opposite, she wears sunglasses, Retro Glasses; shirt, Haight; skirt, Zara; apumps, Jorge Bischoff. He wears blazer, Zimmermann at Mares; pants, Frou Frou Brechรณ; sneakers, Perky Shoes

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Shirt, Louis Vuitton; skirt, Morena Rosa; earrings, B l Antique at Espaรงo Pinga; sandals, Ipanema

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Coat and pants, Osklen; sneakers, Kontatto. Opposite, she wears dress, Dior; scarf, B.Luxo; sunglasses, Retro Glasses; sandals, Vicenza. He wears coat and pants, Adidas; sneakers, Capodarte

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Shirt and pants, both Cotton Project; slide sandals, Cartago; sneakers, Radamés (on the dog). Opposite, she wears dress, Dior; sandals, Werner. He wears jacket, Cotton Project; shorts, Frou Frou Brechó; sneakers, Kildare

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She wears top and skirt, Cris Barros; earrings B l Antique at Espaรงo Pinga; shoes, Indiana Brazil.

Opposite, he wears shirt and shorts, Louis Vuitton; slippers, Pegada; she wears dress, Cris Barros; necklace, Abi Project; sandals, Zaxy; scarf worn as leash, Zara

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Beauty: Liége Wisniewski, using NARS and Keune products (Group Art) Fashion producers: Vinícius Coni and Julia Aguiar Assistant photographers: Renato Toso, Renato Zimmermann and Paulo Pompéia Beauty assistant: Joana Wérica Image treatment: Philipe Mortosa Special thanks to: Cão Modelo Agência

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CAPODARTE

BIBI

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Make-

believe From pop to camouflage, a perfect selection of sandals and sneakers to have lots of fun this summer

Photographed by Thiago Justo editor Barbara Migliori

mOLEKINHO

DIVERSÃO

DIVERSÂO

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PAMPILI

PAMPILI

CAPODARTE

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CONTRAMÃO

CAPODARTE

CONTRAMÃO

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BIBI

ZAXY ORTOPÉ

MOLEKINHA

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PAMPILI

ORTOPÉ

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IPANEMA

RIDER

DIVERSÃO

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MOLEKINHO

DIVERSÃO

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DIVERSÃO

KLIN

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Set designer: Larissa Dantas (@_lset) Assistant photographer: Aline Lins Special thanks to: Catatau Brinquedos Educativos

ORTOPÉ

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KLIN

12/06/2018 18:45:48

service Andacco Avenida Donato Paschoini, 110, São Sebastião do Paraíso, MG tel.: +55 (35) 3531-1453 export@andacco.com.br andacco.com.br

Cravo & Canela Avenida Castro Alves, 200, Ivoti, RS tel.: +55 (51) 2101-0700 export@grupopriority.com cravocanela.com.br

Invoice Rua Dr. Mauricio Cardoso, 1.195, Sapiranga, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3039-1104 aderson@invoicecalcados.com.br invoicecalcados.com.br

AZALEIA Rua Dr. Legendre, 34, Parobé, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3543-5248 evandro.weyermuller@vulcabras.com.br azaleia.com.br

Democrata Avenida Wilson Sábio de Mello, 2.750, Franca, SP tel.: +55 (16) 3712-3587 melo@democrata.com.br democrata.com.br

Ipanema Avenida Pedro Grendene, 131-A, Farroupilha, RS tel.: +55 (54) 2109-9000 gisela.carbolin@grendene.com.br grendene.com.br

Beira Rio Conforto RS 239, km 17,5, 4.400, Novo Hamburgo, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3584-2200 exportacao_me@beirario.com.br beirarioconforto.com.br

DI VALENTINI Rua Marechal Floriano Peixoto, 161, São João Batista, SC tel.: +55 (48) 3265-3030 comercial@divalentini.com.br divalentini.com.br

Bibi RS 239, km 28,4, 3.600, Parobé, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3512-3344 magnus@bibi.com.br bibi.com

Divalesi Rua Sete de Setembro, 1.203,Três Coroas, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3546-6777 eberti@divalesi.com.br divalesi.com.br

Bléque Avenida Jesuíno Marcondes Machado, 1.180, Campinas, SP tel.: +55 (19) 3395-5400 comercial@bleque.com.br bleque.com.br

DIVERSÃO Rua Vicente Prieto, 3.599, Picada Café, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3285-2600 cassia@shoeprint.com.br calcadosdiversao.com.br

Bottero Rua Armindo Schmidt, 676, Parobé, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3543-5400 paulina@bottero.net bottero.net Capodarte Rua Vinte de Setembro, 4.411, Sapiranga, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3599-8800 becomeafranchisee@paqueta.com.br capodarte.com Cartago Avenida Pedro Grendene, 131-A, Farroupilha, RS tel.: +55 (54) 2109-9000 gisela.carbolin@grendene.com.br grendene.com.br Cecconello Rua Henrique Juergensen, 909, Três Coroas, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3546-8100 comercial@cecconello.com.br cecconello-shoes.com Contramão Avenida Valério Gomes, 85, São João Batista, SC tel.: +55 (48) 3265-7300 contato@contramao.com.br contramao.com.br

Dumond Rua Vinte de Setembro, 4.411, Sapiranga, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3599-8800 becomeafranchisee@paqueta.com.br dumondshoes.com Ferracini 24h Rua Olivio Fenatti, 149, Franca, SP tel.: +55 (16) 3711-0571 valessa@ferracini.com.br ferracini.com.br FERRICELLI Rodovia João Traficante, km 3, Franca, SP tel.: +55 (16) 3707-6200 export@ferricelli.com.br ferricelli.com.br Grendha Avenida Pedro Grendene, 131-A, Farroupilha, RS tel.: +55 (54) 2109-9000 gisela.carbolin@grendene.com.br grendene.com.br Indiana Brazil Rua Bento Gonçalves , 3.150, cj. 202, Novo Hamburgo, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3581-1560 patricia@passpex.com.br indianabrazil.com.br

Itapuã Avenida Dr. Aristides Campos, 594, Cachoeiro de Itapemirim, ES tel.: +55 (28) 2101-9009 saulo@itapua.com itapua.ind.br Jorge Bischoff Rua Sete de Julho, 416, Igrejinha, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3549-9300 exportacao@jorgebischoff.com.br jorgebischoff.com Kildare Rua Marcílio Dias, 684, Novo Hamburgo, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3593-7833 alano@kildare.com.br kildare.com.br Klin Rua Vereador José Fiorin, 373, Birigui, SP tel.: +55 (18) 3643-7000 leandro.camargo@klin.com.br klin.com.br/ingles Kontatto Avenida Papa João XXIII, 920, Franca, SP tel.: +55 (16) 3707-3000 export@radames.ind.br kontattocalcados.com.br La Femme Rua João Schiavinato, 1.073, Birigui, SP tel.: +55 (18) 3644-5057 comercial@lafemmecalcados.com.br lafemmecalcados.com.br Loucos & Santos Rua Sete de Julho, 416, Igrejinha, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3549-9300 exportacao@loucosesantos.com.br loucosesantos.com.br Luz da Lua Rua Marechal Câmara, 820, Novo Hamburgo, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3303-5000 luzdalua@luzdalua.com.br luzdalua.com.br

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Modare ULTRACONFORTO RS 239, km 17,5, 4.400, Novo Hamburgo, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3584-2200 exportacao_me@beirario.com.br modareultraconforto.com.br Moleca RS 239, km 17,5, 4.400, Novo Hamburgo, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3584-2200 exportacao_me@beirario.com.br moleca.com.br Molekinha RS 239, km 17,5, 4.400, Novo Hamburgo, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3584-2200 exportacao_me@beirario.com.br molekinha.com.br Molekinho RS 239, km 17,5, 4.400, Novo Hamburgo, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3584-2200 exportacao_me@beirario.com.br molekinho.com.br New Face Avenida Dr. Aristides Campos, 594, Cachoeiro de Itapemirim, ES tel.: +55 (28) 2101-9009 saulo@itapua.com itapua.ind.br OPANANKEN Avenida Paulo Roberto Cavalheiro Coelho, 811, Franca, SP tel.: +55 (16) 3702-5900 exporta@opananken.com.br opananken.com.br ORTOPÉ Avenida Vinte de Setembro, 4.411, Sapiranga, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3599-8800 marketingortope@paqueta.com.br ortope.com ÖUS Alameda Dr. Carlos de Carvalho, 2.789, Curitiba, PR tel.: +55 (41) 3434-2207 opa@ous.com.br ous.com.br Pampili Rua Vinte e Um de Abril, 640, Birigui, SP tel.: +55 (18) 3643-2385 international@pampili.com.br global.pampili.com.br

PEGADA Avenida Florestal, 110, Dois Irmãos, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3393-2700 renata@pegada.com.br pegada.com.br Perky Shoes Rua Almirante Barroso, 715, sala 301, Porto Alegre, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3268-9796 rodrigo@perkyshoes.com perkyshoes.com

USAFLEX Rua Mal. Deodoro da Fonseca, 530, Igrejinha, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3549-8100 jefferson.b@usaflex.com.br usaflex.com.br Valentina SHOES Avenida Santa Maria, 664, Três Coroas, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3546-1773 export@valentina.ind.br valentina.ind.br

Piccadilly Rua General Ernesto Dornelles, 577, Igrejinha, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3549-9600 dcritzel@piccadilly.com.br piccadilly.com.br

VELENO Avenida Visconde de Pirajá, 351 Rio de Janeiro, RJ tel.: +55 (21) 2241-5900 tatiana@veleno.com.br veleno.com.br

Radamés Rua José Luís Garcia, 3.760, Franca, SP tel.: +55 (16) 3707-3000 export@radames.ind.br radames.ind.br

Verofatto Rua Armindo Schmidt, 676, Parobé, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3543-5400 paulina@bottero.net verofatto.com.br

Ramarim Rua Angra dos Reis, 171, Nova Hartz, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3565-8100 tatiana.muller@ramarim.com.br gruporamarim.com

VIA MARTE Rua Henrique Hoffmann, 3.095, Nova Hartz, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3565-8000 camilo@viamarte.com.br viamarte.com

Rider Avenida Pedro Grendene, 131-A, Farroupilha, RS tel.: +55 (54) 2109-9000 gisela.carbolin@grendene.com.br grendene.com.br SAVELLI Rua Benedito Barbosa, 961, Franca, SP tel.: +55 (16) 3703-5493 sales@savellicalcados.com.br savellicalcados.com.br SCHUTZ Rua Liberato Salzano, 108, Campo Bom, RS tel.: +55 (51) 2129-5000 exportacao_me@arezzo.com.br schutz-shoes.com Suzana Santos Rua Manoel Cunha, 128, São João Batista,SC tel.: +55 (48) 3265-6800 vendas@suzanasantos.com.br suzanasantos.com.br Tabita Rua Benjamin Jung, 195, Igrejinha, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3545-1600 export@tabita.com.br tabita.com.br

Vicenza Rua Arthur Fetter, 233, Igrejinha, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3549-9900 geison.ferreira@vicenza.com.br vicenza.com.br Vizzano RS 239, km 17,5, 4.400, Novo Hamburgo, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3584-2200 exportacao_me@beirario.com.br vizzano.com.br Werner Rua João Petry, 159, Três Coroas, RS tel.: +55 (51) 3546-7123 isaque@wernercalcados.com.br wernercalcados.com.br West Coast Avenida Castro Alves, 200, Ivoti, RS tel.: +55 (51) 2101-0700 export@grupopriority.com westcoast.com.br Zaxy Avenida Pedro Grendene, 131-A, Farroupilha, RS tel.: +55 (54) 2109-9000 gisela.carbolin@grendene.com.br grendene.com.br

VOGUE BRAZILIAN FOOTWEAR 81

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12/06/2018 20:23:28

p.s.

al mare Rope sandals are a must-have item in your bag this summer

CECCONELLO

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SET DESIGN: LARISSA DANTAS (@_LSET) special thanks to: PONTO NĂ UTICO

by fabiana leite Photographed by XICO BUNY

12/06/2018 18:42:32