THREESIXTY° x SUSS-TAINABILITY

THREESIXTY SUSS-TAINABILITY

In a world where people are actively trying to avoid traditional advertising, we help brands evolve their approach and develop a creative framework that will truly resonate with their audience, ensuring their cultural relevance.

At the heart of KRPT° is our global network of creators.

These figures give us an unparalleled insight into trends and inform our creative process from strategy to execution.

KRPT° focus on insights, creative, partnerships and experiences to connect the dots between brands and culture, creating Art, Not Ads.

AS CONSUMERS BECOME INCREASINGLY EDUCATED THROUGH THE GROWTH OF ALTERNATIVE ONLINE EDUCATION PLATFORMS, THEY CAN EASILY IDENTIFY AND CALL OUT BRANDS WHOSE HALF-HEARTED ATTEMPTS TO APPEAR ECO-FRIENDLY ARE CONDEMNED AS GREENWASHING

THE ADVENT OF A POSTLOCKDOWN WORLD BRINGS NEW OPPORTUNITIES FOR BRANDS, BUT EFFECTIVELY ENGAGING WITH THESE OPPORTUNITIES IS OFTEN CHALLENGING. As cultural trends shift and fluctuate, it’s easy to get left behind, or worse still, clumsily misstep when entering a new realm. Threesixty offers a guiding hand as brands take a leap of faith, by providing a comprehensive coverage of particular cultural movements and burgeoning markets. By studying those who have been ahead of the curve in interacting with these trends, and analysing some more calamitous approaches; this guide helps brands credibly access new cultural scenes, and become a respected and enduring presence within the most crucial elements of contemporary society.

The third edition of Threesixty takes aim at sustainability. With products advertised as sustainable growing 5.6 times faster than those that weren’t, brands have been clambering over themselves to assert their environmental accomplishments. However, as consumers become increasingly educated through the growth of alternative online education platforms, they can easily identify and call out brands whose half-hearted attempts to appear eco-friendly are condemned as greenwashing. Threesixty recognises that true sustainability requires a brand to undergo forensic reflection to achieve clarity and open itself up to the future of sustainable growth.

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O U R PERS P ECTI VE

O U R P ERS P EC T I V E

Our

Sustainability is a topic that has now been discussed in every boardroom, from skincare brands to oil shipping companies. And yet, with many of these discussions dominated by indifference and dishonesty, the word, as used by brands, is surrounded by suspicion.

At KRPT° we offer clarity through the smokescreen of deception. Our Threesixty perspective forms the guiding light for brands to become part of a people and planet positive future. Whilst this light has been dimmed by those who have distorted and exploited it, we are here to restore its brilliance and help others find the light.

Perspective

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A STRATEGY USED BY BRANDS TO DECEIVE THEIR CONSUMERS.

Diffraction

DIFFRACTION

To the naked eye it appears that these brands are working through the climate obstacle when really they are just snaking their way around it. With the growth of climate experts this behaviour is increasingly recognised and called out, leaving a brand deeply disconnected from their consumers.

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DI F F RACTION?

DI F F R AC T ION?

It has been the go-to sustainability strategy for most brands since the 1980s; ‘greenwashing’. The world’s largest brands mislead consumers by hiding their irresponsible practices under the misuse of words like ‘sustainable’, ‘green’ and ‘conscious’ to present a false positive public image. Weaving their way around the climate obstacle whilst appearing to have combated it, brands have continually reverted to this strategy.

However, as brands begin to experience the firsthand effects of climate change; higher costs, shifting consumer demand, and direct business disruption, the deficiency of diffracting around the problem is becoming painfully apparent. Consumers have begun seeking out climate education from charities and protest organisations, the individual is able to identify and call out greenwashing - the conscious consumer is no longer easily deceived. With 28% of all UK consumers and 45% of Gen-Z consumers stating that they will stop buying products if they have environmental or ethical concerns about its production, this strategy can lead to a brand’s downfall. As time moves on, and wealth transfers to the 45%, those who don’t begin to integrate sustainability into the core of their brand will only become more disconnected and severed from their consumers.

IT HAS BEEN THE GO-TO SUSTAINABILITY STRATEGY FOR MOST BRANDS SINCE THE 1980S; ‘GREENWASHING’.

THE TIME IS UP ON QUICK FIXES, A CORE CULTURE OF LONG-TERM SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS IS THE ONLY WAY FOR BRANDS TO MAINTAIN A COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE - BOTH NOW AND IN THE FUTURE. BEING AHEAD OF THIS CURVE, USING THE PRESENT TO GROW GENUINE SUSTAINABLE ROOTS WILL ENSURE A BRAND’S INCREASING SUCCESS, THEIR RESILIENCE AGAINST FURTHER CHALLENGES AHEAD, AND AN ABILITY TO ACTUALLY FACE THE CLIMATE OBSTACLE HEAD ON.

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T R ANS PAR ENCY

T R ANS PAR ENCY

One of the initial sustainable demands placed on businesses was ‘transparency’, the disclosure of information about a brands supply chain and its environmental impact. Hoping to dawn a new era of openness and accountability, transparency offered a way for shareholders and consumers to see through the smokescreen of greenwashing. And yet, many brands have replaced this smokescreen with another, blocking the individual from clarity through an information overload. So far brands have buried their transparency in hard-to-find Corporate Social Responsibility PDFs, where their current environmental impact is mixed in with their goals for the all too distant future.

Brands need to work beyond the PDF and disclose information in a way that’s increasingly comprehensible, comparable and accessible. The demand is there as 46% of all UK consumers are still asking for more clarity on the origins and sourcing of products. The clarity that consumers are asking for is not about a brand trying to prove that they are the most eco-friendly option but about being open and honest. Whilst brands might intuitively shy away from honesty, perhaps aware of their limited sustainable innovation, it pays off. By giving consumers the information they are asking for brands are able to re-establish trust they might have lost, as 94% of consumers stated they are more likely to be loyal to a brand that they believe is completely transparent.

BRANDS NEED TO WORK BEYOND THE PDF AND DISCLOSE INFORMATION IN A WAY THAT’S INCREASINGLY COMPREHENSIBLE, COMPARABLE AND ACCESSIBLE.

Information Overload

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HONES T Y IS THE BES T POLICY

HONES T Y IS T HE B ES T P OL ICY

Since 2018 Noah NYC has worked under the honest, against-the-grain slogan ‘we are not a sustainable company’. Born out of frustration with being hailed as a sustainable fashion brand by the press, Noah NYC used this campaign to set the record straight. ‘There’s really no such thing as a sustainable clothing company.’ By honestly admitting their shortcomings and complicity in a ‘culture where financial success is valued above everything else,’ Noah NYC are holding themselves accountable for their limited innovation.

Whilst they take time to develop more of their own sustainability initiatives, Noah NYC is using their platforms to spotlight individuals and companies at the forefront of sustainability. Through these consciousnessraising initiatives, Noah NYC aims to combat both consumer ignorance around sustainability and fosters a culture of honesty within their own company. A refreshing strategy which helps brands regain consumer trust after so many years of damaging it.

“TO SAY WE’RE SUSTAINABLE WOULD BE A LIE. TO SAY WE’RE DOING A LITTLE MORE WITH EACH SEASON WOULD BE THE TRUTH” - NOAH

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T R ANS PARENCY THROUGH BLOCKCHAIN

For years Blockchain technology has been the hot topic that your friend who invests in cryptocurrency won’t shut up about. Whilst the technology has mainly been favoured by the financial market Jessi Baker’s Software as Service (SaaS) start-up, Provenance, is re-defining the possibilities of Blockchain within sustainable innovation.

Provenance leverages Blockchain technology to

T R ANS PAR ENCY T HRO U GH B LO CKCHAI N

“IT IS OUR RIGHT TO KNOW AS CONSUMERS WHAT WE ARE ESSENTIALLY FUNDING, THE IMPACT BEHIND THE PRODUCTS WE BUY” - JESSI BAKER, PROVENANCE FOUNDER & CEO

establish traceable transparency that can break through the wall of inconsistent information around supply chains. The company does this by creating ‘digital passports’ for every product which prove fair pay, fair trading, transport and ethical claims in the supply chain. Accessible through QR codes, online or in-store, Provenance is designed around customer accessibility and readability.

Consciously aware of the astronomical energy cost of Blockchain technology, CEO Jessi Baker keeps her finger on the pulse of sustainable development within Blockchain; utilising Proof of Stake over Proof of Work where they can, and hoping to move to a DAG (Directed Acrylic Graph) ledgers when available.

In the spirit of constant innovation Jessi Baker has announced that Provenance are working to use their technology to combat the myths and confusion around recycling. Targeted towards the beauty industry Provenance want to offer brands the option of including QR codes on their packaging which details how and where customers can effectively recycle the packaging in their local area to ensure it doesn’t end up in landfill.

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L ABEL I T

L AB EL I T

Sometimes complex problems require simple solutions and with the advent of various organizations establishing standards for sustainability a simple label can offer the clarity that is otherwise so hard to come by.

At Allbirds, a sustainable activewear company, they go by the slogan ‘don’t hide your pollution. Label it.’ And that is exactly what they do. At Allbirds they calculate the carbon footprint of each of their products through their life cycle assessment (LCA) tool in partnership with SCS Global Services. This information is then transferred onto two different labels. The first ‘stamp’ version shows the overall carbon emissions and the second ‘nutrition label’ breaks down emissions by category. With the ethos ‘if competition got us into this mess, perhaps collaboration can get us out’ Allbirds have made this Carbon Footprint Calculator available to everyone, hoping to pioneer an era of accessible transparency.

IT L IT EL L BE AB LA

“DON’T HIDE YOUR POLLUTION. LABEL IT.” - ALLBIRDS

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A STRATEGY USED BY BRANDS TO DECEIVE THEIR CONSUMERS.

Reflection

REFLECTION

Deep or serious contemplation of a spiritual nature about a particular subject. Requires seeing things from a new perspective, learning and then evolving from it.

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A PAI NFUL RECKON I NG

A PAI NF U L R ECKONI NG

As the worldwide reality of the COVID-19 virus dawned on us in March 2020 and the resulting countrywide lockdowns became a reality, the instantaneous and palpable feeling was a global culture of shock. Alongside the shock came the daunting realisation that everything we know and take for granted can change drastically and at any time. Not only has COVID shown us how quickly our reality can change but how being so ignorantly unprepared for an event that we have been warned for years could happen can intensely worsen it.

Just as virologists have pleaded with governments to prepare for such a global pandemic, environmentalists have desperately been trying to convey how quickly our reality will change as a result of our impact on the planet. Whilst the Western world is still in a position of blocking their ears to the theoretical warnings of climate disaster, other parts of the world are already suffering as a direct result of our overconsumption. The climate refugees displaced by the ongoing climate-change related disasters, the garment workers who lost their lives in the collapse of the Rana Plaza building, in the Tazreen Fashions factory, and countless others.

And yet, as the UK went into lockdown, we were left confined with ourselves, forced into a state of reflection; not just about the impact of COVID-19, but our impact on the planet, even the impact of our fast-paced, destructive lifestyles on ourselves. Despite being a painful reckoning many people have come out of this experience with a new perspective, having reset their priorities they look on our world with an outlook for change.

WHILST THE WESTERN WORLD IS STILL IN A POSITION OF BLOCKING THEIR EARS TO THE THEORETICAL WARNINGS OF CLIMATE DISASTER, OTHER PARTS OF THE WORLD ARE ALREADY SUFFERING AS A DIRECT RESULT OF OUR OVERCONSUMPTION.

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A PAIN FUL RECKONI NG

A PAI NF U L R ECKONI NG

“I’M MUCH MORE AWARE OF GREENWASHING NOW, AND UNDERSTAND THAT TO BE SUSTAINABLE IT IS BEST TO NOT BUY NEW. THERE ARE ENOUGH READILY-MADE

“MY UNDERSTANDING OF SUSTAINABILITY

RESOURCES THAT WE CAN USE WITHOUT

HAS CHANGED GREATLY. I HAVE ALWAYS BEEN

BUYING NEW THINGS. INSTEAD REPAIRING

MINDFUL OF MY IMPACT ON THE ENVIRONMENT,

THINGS THAT ARE DAMAGED / BROKEN IS A

BUT DURING THESE PAST COUPLE OF YEARS

MORE SUSTAINABLE OPTION.”

I HAVE BECOME FAR MORE AWARE OF HOW

- LEAH, 23

MY INDIVIDUAL CHOICES CAN MAKE A LARGE IMPACT. I HAVE CONTROL OVER WHAT I CONSUME AND DISPOSE OF, AND BY TAKING OWNERSHIP OF THAT I HAVE REALIZED HOW SIGNIFICANT AN INDIVIDUAL’S CHOICES ARE.” - AMELIA, 21

“TO TACKLE CLIMATE CHANGE WE NEED BIG ACTION, LIKE WE SAW ON COVID-19, FROM GOVERNMENTS ALL OVER THE WORLD. IT IS NOT TAKEN SERIOUSLY ENOUGH AND IT’S FUCKING SCARY.” - ALEX, 24

“DURING LOCKDOWN I BECAME FAR MORE AWARE OF MY INDIVIDUAL ROLE IN SOCIETY. I WAS HYPER-AWARE OF SPREADING THE VIRUS AND WOULD TAKE TIME AND CARE TO PROTECT MY COMMUNITY FROM IT. THIS MADE ME QUESTION WHY I DON’T TAKE THE SAME TIME AND CARE PROTECTING SOCIETY FROM CLIMATE DISASTER. SINCE THEN I HAVE VOWED TO BE AS HYPER-AWARE OF SUSTAINABILITY AS I WAS OF CORONAVIRUS DURING ITS HEIGHT” - KWAN, 26

“I FEEL THAT WE ARE MAKING A STEP IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION BY NOT IGNORING THE PROBLEM ANYMORE.” - BRIDGET, 20

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JO U RN EY OF REDEM PTION

JO U R NEY OF R EDEM P T ION

The forced reflection that many of us underwent during the pandemic is hard to recreate within brands but calling out greenwashing and corruption comes close. In 2015 Volkswagen was forced into a position of reflection after being caught up in a notorious and fraudulent greenwashing scandal. Rather than letting this lead to their demise, the brand took time to reflect, restructure and hit back by becoming a leading market innovator in the electro-automobile industry.

JOURNEY OF REDEMPTION

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VOLKS WAGEN GRO UP

In the Volkswagen Diesel scandal of 2015, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) discovered that Volkswagen was tampering with car emissions tests using a ‘defeat device’ in order to forcibly meet the new government emissions standards. Unable to meet new emissions requirements without reducing the car’s performance they decided to install devices which could detect when they were being tested. When being tested

VOL KS WAGEN GRO U P

“WITH THE NEW REBRANDING AS AN ELECTRIC VEHICLE MANUFACTURER, VOLKSWAGEN CERTAINLY HAS THE SIZE AND SCOPE TO TAKE ON INDUSTRY LEADER TESLA” - JAMES WELCH, INSTRUCTOR OF MANAGEMENT UNIVERSITY OF TAMPA

the car’s performance was lowered so that the emissions were within the federal limit, and when driven in normal circumstances the performance was higher but so were the emissions. As a result, top executives were sent to federal prison, the stock price of Volkswagen plummeted 20% within one day, and the company was fined by various governments. Recovery seemed impossible, and yet, less than a year after the scandal was made public, Volkswagen again emerged as the world’s number one automotive company, even predicted to be a ‘Tesla killer’.

What Volkswagen essentially did was combat the self-inflicted financial and public relations nightmare of the diesel scandal by establishing themselves as the market leader in electric vehicle manufacturing. Their ‘Transform 2025’ plan has seen the car giant establish 9 out of 16 new electric vehicle plants, add 9,000 new jobs, and was even the first automaker to commit to the Paris Agreement.

“AS INSURMOUNTABLE A CHALLENGE AS THIS SEEMED AT THE TIME, VOLKSWAGEN WASTED LITTLE TIME PUSHING TOWARD RECOVERY” - JAMES WELCH, INSTRUCTOR OF MANAGEMENT UNIVERSITY OF TAMPA

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AC T I N THE P RES ENT INSTEAD OF JUSTIFYING THE PAST

AC T I N T HE P R ES ENT I NS T EAD OF J U S T I F Y I NG T HE PAS T

Patagonia is easily, and frequently, hailed as an exceptionally sustainable clothing company. The unique advantage that Patagonia has is that sustainability has been at their core since its creation. Founder Yvon Chouinard made a name for himself by pioneering the first sustainable technology for mountaineering before founding Patagonia in 1973. Chouinard developed a reusable metal piton, to replace the cheaply made single-use plastic pitons which were left in place. The ethos behind this first innovation, preserving nature by eliminating waste, has laid the foundation for Patagonia and informs the brand’s culture to this day as 87% of their line uses recycled materials.

Whilst this history of sustainability may be daunting for brands that are finding it difficult to introduce systemic sustainable change - what truly stands out within Patagonia’s environmental strategy is action. Whilst so much surrounding the environment and sustainability remains theorised in an abstract world, Patagonia takes measurable steps to act in the physical world, and act now. This action is formulated in their three-pronged plan to sustainability. The Worn Wear programme sees them repair any Patagonia item, 1% of their sales goes to the preservation and restoration of the natural environment, and finally their ‘Action Works’ platform connects individuals to the organisations doing the

THE ETHOS BEHIND THIS FIRST INNOVATION, PRESERVING NATURE BY ELIMINATING WASTE, HAS LAID THE FOUNDATION FOR PATAGONIA AND INFORMS THE BRAND’S CULTURE TO THIS DAY AS 87% OF THEIR LINE USES RECYCLED MATERIALS.

critical work of grassroots environmental activism.

What brands can learn from Patagonia is Action Works.

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B EYOND ELECTRIC

B EYOND EL EC T R IC

Electric motors have been around as long as the car itself. They even stayed a valid competitor to the gasoline powered car until they were pushed onto the back burner by Henry Ford’s mass production of the Model T. However, with constant advancement in electric battery technology and growing concern about carbon pollution the focus has now returned to electric. As governments around the world reflect on the excessive production of carbon pollution by the automotive industry, increasing tolls and bans on the use of gasoline cars are making the ownership of them less and less attractive.

But as electric cars become normalised, who are the market disruptors looking beyond electric, beyond the present moment and towards further innovation?

WHO ARE THE MARKET DISRUPTORS LOOKING BEYOND ELECTRIC?

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H Y DRO GEN P O W ERED

HY DRO GEN P O W ER ED

WITH A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE ON THE FUTURE OF THE CAR INDUSTRY TOYOTA BRANCHED OFF FROM ITS COMPETITORS, INVESTING IN

D

W PO ER

ED

ROGEN

HYDROGEN OVER ELECTRICITY

HY

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After leading innovation with the world’s first mass produced hybrid vehicle, the Toyota Prius, Toyota vowed to stay at the forefront of sustainable innovation. With a different perspective on the future of the car industry Toyota branched off from its competitors, investing in hydrogen over electricity powered motors. As a result Toyota managed to produce the first hydrogen-powered Sedan in 2014, and in 2020 the second-generation Mirai. These cars utilise fuel cell electric vehicle (FCEV) technology for a zero-emission car that can be re-filled in a matter of minutes at a hydrogen fuel pump.

However, since Toyota is one of the few industry developers of FCEV technology, hydrogen fuel cell cars remain relatively inaccessible with lacking infrastructure. The UK still only has a handful of refuelling stations and hydrogen prices are high, at about £75 for a full tank. And yet FCEV boasts a bright future, as Ballard and Deloitte forecast that FCEVs will be cheaper to run than BEVS within the next decade.

With longer ranges and significantly shorter refuelling times hydrogen-powered passenger cars and heavy goods vehicles are an exciting future prospect that Toyota is driving forward.

POWERED MOTORS.

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M INI S TRI P

The MINI STRIP, Paul Smith’s most recent collaboration with Mini, originates a new approach to sustainability within the automotive industry. The limited-edition car looks beyond purely the electric motor and aims

M I NI S T R I P

MINI

STRIP

to incorporate sustainability within every aspect of its design. In order to pull this off Mini brought in Paul Smith to entirely re-think the materials and the construction of the Mini Cooper SE.

In the process of reflecting on and re-designing the Mini into the MINI STRIP Paul Smith decided to, as the name suggests, strip back the Mini to its bare modern day essentials. Through this creative process Smith recalled elements of the original 1980s minimalist design and adapted them to our current needs. An Example of this perspective is Smith’s decision to replace the central instrument with a smart phone holder. Recognizing that in today’s world, no-one really needs a sat-nav or a radio when our smartphones do it all.

Whilst minimalism has repeatedly been heralded as the key to sustainable consumption, it can sap the playfulness out of design and consumer culture.

Uniquely the MINI STRIP doesn’t fall into this trap, instead it exemplifies the joy and creativity that can coexist and arise from minimalism. Smith uses the unique terrazzo-like patterns and textures of recycled materials as statement design elements. Meanwhile, the raw paint-free exterior and exposed screws work both to form an aesthetic contrast to the bold interior, and in theory, allows the car to be dismantled and recycled at the end of its life-cycle.

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A STRATEGY USED BY BRANDS TO DECEIVE THEIR CONSUMERS.

Refraction

REFRACTION

Refraction is found in the brands who are focusing their creative energy into finding pathways through the obstacle of the climate crisis. Through this intense focus of energy towards the problem, they create a spectral range of innovative solutions.

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DEPOP

DEP OP

With the exponential growth of fast fashion in the last 20 years, the global production of clothing has doubled since 2000. We’re buying 60% more clothes now than we did 15 years ago and only keeping them for half as long. As a result, we are struggling with an immense surplus of clothing that is ending up in landfills after little or no use. The most effective and realistic way to tackle consumer obsession with new items of clothing is to extend the life-cycle of our garments and do all we can to keep them in circulation and out of landfills.

SECOND-HAND IS THIS SOLUTION, IT REDUCES THE ITEM’S CARBON FOOTPRINT BY 82% AND ITS WATER FOOTPRINT BY NEARLY 100%.

The cultural shift from fast fashion to second-hand and resale is one that owes a lot to the founding of Depop in 2011. Utilising Instagram’s aesthetics and eBay’s signature merchant traits Depop was the start-up that changed the consumer relationship to second-hand clothing. With its roots in social network the platform started as a place where readers of PIG magazine, also founded by Simon Beckerman, could buy items from the young creatives featured. When Beckerman reenvisioned the platform as a marketplace he continued

Since then Depop has established itself as the largest

to uphold a structure that promoted social networking

online fashion marketplace, with more than 21 million

through fashion and spotlighted independent creatives.

users buying and selling on the platform. Depop has also

Herewith, Beckerman changed perceptions of second-

grown into a brand which has had immense influence on

hand clothing. Previously seen as unhygienic and out

the wider industry. Depop helped initiate a new second

of fashion, Depop rebranded second-hand clothing

hand sub-sector which is growing 25 times faster than

as the place to uncover and cultivate your own highly

the rest of the fashion industry, even forecasted to be

individualistic, one-of-a-kind style.

double the size of fast fashion by 2030. More than that it has given individual sellers the opportunity to pursue their Depop shop as a full-time job.

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S EC ON D -HAN D S TART-UP REVOLUTION

S EC OND - HAND S TAR T- U P R EVOLU T ION

VESTIAIRE COLLECTIVE Founded in 2009 by Fanny Moizant and Sophie Hersan, Vestiaire is an online luxury resale platform and the first global resale platform to achieve B-Corp Certification. Alongside allowing individual sellers to resell their vintage designer items Vestiaire has started teaming up with luxury fashion houses to create a Brand Approved programme. Within this programme pieces are sourced from select clients by representatives of the fashion house, these items are then received and authenticated by the house, assigned a price,and once sold the client is given the value of the item in the form of a voucher. Not only does this programme promote circularity but it rewards loyalty and has allowed the likes of Alexander McQueen, Mytheresa, and Mulberry to play an active role in celebrating and re-circulating pre-loved items.

ESOOKO

THRIFT+

Inspired by the success of Depop, Jacob Simons and

Working to simplify clothing re-sale, Joe Metcalfe

Angus Morton became the co-founders of their own

founded Thrift+ in 2015. Thrift+ offers a streamlined

resale platform, esooko. What differentiates esooko

service that takes the hassle out of resale. The start-up

from other second-hand retailers is that they go that

sends out ThriftBag’s for users to fill and return for free.

step further with their eco conscious approach, and

Once the bag arrives at the Thrift+ warehouse they are

instead of going down the route of damage limitation

checked, photographed and assigned a resale price

they use the platform to have a positive impact on the

for the owner to approve. Encouraging circularity the

planet. The app itself encourages buyers and sellers

sellers are then granted Thrift+ credits for every sale to

to become more conscious of their footprint while

use in the Thrift+ online second-hand store. With the

shopping. Meanwhile half of esooko’s commission fee

continued success of the site Joe hopes that Thrift+ can

goes towards funding environmental initiatives such as

become a second-hand competitor to giants such as

planting trees, restoring coral reefs or educating people

H&M and Asos.

about sustainable fashion.

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M ENDI NG

M ENDI NG

In order to keep clothing in circulation we need to become better at taking care of the garments we already have rather than instinctively throwing them away when a fault appears. A return to our ancestor’s waste not want not approach. A return to mending and tailoring that the app Sojo is making possible for our online generation. Instead of condemning our contemporary fast-paced lifestyle that leans towards fast fashion, Josephine has forged a path within our impatient throwaway culture to introduce slow fashion practices. Through the ‘deliveroo-style’ business model Sojo encourages the consumer to extend the lifespan of their clothing by easily connecting them to their local seamster.

‘FUNDAMENTALLY, IF YOU DON’T HAVE A SUSTAINABLE OR CIRCULAR AGENDA IN THE NEXT FIFTEEN YEARS, I THINK THAT THE BUSINESS HAS A SHELF-LIFE! THE CULTURE, COMMUNITY, SYSTEM AND BUSINESSES WILL MOVE TOWARDS SUSTAINABILITY IN THE END BECAUSE THERE’S NOT REALLY ANOTHER WAY’ - JOSEPHINE PHILIPS, FOUNDER OF SOJO

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R E - B OX ED

R E- B OXED

Depop proved that consumer attitudes around secondhand are there to be changed, and that is exactly what the recommerce start-up Reboxed is trying to do within the electronics industry. The electronics industry has been dominated by a harshly linear model where you buy, upgrade, bin, with no hope or intention of using second-hand. For many this has to do with a distrust towards the utility of an old phone. This is partially due to forced or planned obsolescence in the industry, but also intensely tied to the constant upgrade cycle which makes electronics one of the world’s most polluting industries. This has left us in a position where there are more phones than humans on the planet, and 50 million tons of e-waste are produced every year. Reboxed is trying to introduce circularity within the industry by taking in electronics headed to landfill, refurbishing them, testing them with a 70 point inspection before they are reboxed and sent to their new owners. Meanwhile those items that are genuinely beyond repair are safely recycled with their partners.

DEPOP PROVED THAT CONSUMER ATTITUDES AROUND SECONDHAND ARE THERE TO BE CHANGED, AND THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT THE RECOMMERCE START-UP REBOXED IS TRYING TO DO WITHIN THE ELECTRONICS INDUSTRY.

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R ECYCLI NG ≠ S US TAI NABLE

R ECYCL I NG ≠ S U S TAI NAB L E

ONLY 14% OF GLOBAL PLASTIC PACKAGING IS COLLECTED FOR RECYCLING, AND ONLY 9% OF THE 363 MILLION TONNES OF PLASTIC PRODUCED GLOBALLY EACH YEAR IS RECYCLED.

The reality of recycling means that brands can no longer hide behind the idea that recycling = sustainability.

Only 14% of global plastic packaging is collected for recycling, and only 9% of the 363 million tonnes of plastic produced globally each year is recycled. What has become blatantly obvious is that the plastic industry greatly oversold its recyclability, and as a result, our over-reliance on plastic has become one of the biggest burdens for our planet. Since recycling isn’t stemming the tide of plastic waste, our energy needs to be refocused into reuse.

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T H E NEW FACE OF BEAUT Y

REN SKINCARE As part of their Clean to Planet, Clean to Skin initiative Ren Skincare has collaborated with the Surfrider Foundation to introduce a bottle made with reclaimed ocean plastic.

WILD Sustainable, natural deodorant that is delivered straight to your door. Comes with compostable, plastic free refills so that you can continue reusing the same case.

ONE OCEAN BEAUTY Source their ingredients from lab grown marine ingredients like algae to avoid harvesting limited resources. Meanwhile the packaging is made from recycled wood and bioplastic.

XO BALM The multipurpose natural balm provides the minimalist alternative to trending 10-step beauty regimes. The balm can be used for face, lips, hands, nails, body and even hair styling. Moreover the neutral branding means the case is intended to be reused.

T HE NEW FACE OF B EAU T Y

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R EUS I NG O CEAN WASTE

R EU S I NG O CEAN WAS T E

ADIDAS Through their partnership with Parley for the Oceans Adidas has embarked on a range of projects that focus on the reuse of ocean plastic into new products. They created a line of their Ultraboost 20 trainer range made from 75% ocean plastic, and built a football field at Miami Edison High School using 1.8 million plastic bottles recovered by Parley. The field, named 1.8 also works as a consciousness-raising initiative, sending a message to sporting leagues around the world that they too have a responsibility for sustainability.

CONVERSE Converse have developed a ‘renew’ version of their classic Chuck Taylor All Star using poly-canvas. Made from 100% recycled polyester from used plastic bottles the renew shoe has the same look and feel as traditional Converse canvas, but with significantly lower environmental impact.

CORONA This Summer Mexican beer brand, Corona, launched a ‘Plastic Fishing’ Tournament in which they paid fishermen in Mazatlán, Mexico to retrieve plastic waste from the ocean. 80 fishermen took part and collectively they removed 3 tonnes of rubbish from the sea in one day. The winners received significant cash prizes and all fishermen were compensated for the rubbish they collected. The company that collected the rubbish plan to turn it into tools that can be used by fishermen every day. After the campaign discussions began about formalising this type of work.

PLASTIC IS THE PROBLEM. INNOVATION IS THE SOLUTION - ADIDAS

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CR E ATI VE REUS E / UP-CYCLING

CR EAT I V E R EU S E / U P - CYCL I NG

Since its creation in 2017, German Kraft beer has easily integrated sustainability in its business model by staying local and authentic. Alongside this core sustainability they have undergone their own in-house creative recycling projects. Early on they handmade Jam out of their Weißbier waste, and more recently they melted down around 1,500 broken pint glasses from their Elephant and Castle location to create glass tiles used to make the bars in their Mayfair venue.

Whilst so many companies set abstract future targets what is so impactful about these initiatives is that they are achievable re-uses of waste that are completed in-house. Even better, the consumer can track the entire process on their instagram.

With the aim of not only becoming a zero-waste brewery, but helping the wider community to reduce waste Brewdog has already established a few creative recycling processes. They re-purpose cosmetically defaulted cans for their MEGA trash can lager, replaced 20% of the barley needed for brewing with would-be waste bread in their Lost Lager, and they turn spent spelt into dog biscuits. Continuing their tradition of creative recycling Brewdog have laid out their plans to launch a zero-waste Vodka in their 2021 MEGA Report.

The ‘Bad Beer Vodka’ will be made out of beers which are not quite in spec or too old to sell - ‘the perfect vodka made from not-so-perfect Brewdog beer’.

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DIS CARDED S P I RI TS C O.

DIS CAR DED S P I R I T S C O.

As a brand within William Grant & Sons, Discarded Spirits was founded with the idea of taking would-be wasted ingredients from various alcohol production processes and creatively reusing them to create new spirits. Whilst the key ingredients they use, cascara, banana peel, and grape skin, are frequently repurposed as fertiliser or left to biodegrade in landfills, by utilising waste their production process has little to no environmental impact. The counterintuitive nature of formulating spirits out of wasted products, when for so long the industry has become increasingly concerned with utilising the highest quality ingredients, is the reason for Discarded Spirits’ success as a market disruptor. By unbalancing the hierarchy of taste, Discarded has branded itself as an accessible, unique and exciting sustainable alcohol brand. Moreover, by finding the hidden treasure within the things we throw away, Discarded Spirits was able to unlock undiscovered flavours and establish their brand as entirely unique within the Spirits industry.

CASCARA VERMOUTH Cascara is the discarded fruit of the coffee berry that Discarded uses to create its Vermouth. The fruit is dried, fermented and then steeped in alcohol to create an extract which is the perfect infusion ingredient to a vermouth. A sherry-based Vermouth, Discarded use repurposed Sherry which has previously been used to season Whisky casks.

BANANA PEEL RUM Again for this product Discarded use repurposed Rum which has been used in the cask finishing cycle, and the all too familiar everyday waste of the banana peel.

Described as having a liquid banana bread type finish, the rum is defined by toffee and citrus notes.

GRAPE SKIN VODKA Vodka uses two main ingredients that are wasted in the wine industry: the residual grape waste and the wine alcohol removed in the process of making alcohol-free wine.

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FUNGUS OF THE FUTURE

SHROOM BOOM Shroom Boom

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T H E MAGIC OF M US HROOMS

T HE MAGIC OF M U S HRO OMS

In the past couple of years the humble mushroom has been elevated to the new ‘it’ natural product. It has flooded into the skin-care industry with instant success due to its natural anti-inflammatory properties. Within the wellness sector its hallucinogenic properties are being re-evaluated as legitimate ways to treat anxiety and depression. Meanwhile, the visual properties of the gilled spores continue to provide endless design inspiration for the fashion industry.

WHILST MYCELIUM LEATHER DEVELOPMENT IS STILL IN RELATIVELY EARLY STAGES, ITS SMALL-SCALE USE AND THE CONCEPT DESIGNS SHOW THE ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES SPROUTING FROM THESE SPORES.

Whilst this isn’t necessarily new news, the advanced development of mycelium technology certainly is. The design labs Bolt Threads, MycoWorks and Ecovative Design have dominated mycelium innovation, harnessing the growth of the mushroom root to form natural alternatives to plastic packaging and leather.

Whilst mycelium leather development is still in relatively early stages, its small-scale use and the concept designs show the endless possibilities sprouting from these spores.

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FAS H ION FUNG US

FAS HION F U NGU S

For years the fashion industry has come under fire for its use of animal leather. Whilst the focus has previously been around animal rights issues, as we learn more about the environmental strain of cattle farming, people are opening their eyes to the totalising impact of the leather industry on animals and the planet. With brands coming under fire for using plastic-based faux leather, Mycelium technology has presented itself as the biodegradable solution to the leather problem.

EDEN POWER CORP Amadou Hat Through their highly conceptual digital strategy Eden Power Corp markets themselves as speculative fiction, a brand that shows alternative ways of living. Cofounders Isaac Larose and Florence Provencher-Proulx believe that their clothing can be a philosophical tool, a way for us to question our relation to the environment.

Their infamous enormous amadou mushroom bucket hat certainly did this. Made from one single reshaped amadou mushroom, the hat certainly made consumers rethink how fashion and nature can interact.

ADIDAS Stan Smith Mylo™ This proof-of-concept shoe, created by Adidas in collaboration with Bolt Threads, is the first shoe ever made from their mycelium-based Mylo™ ‘unleather’.

“THE INTRODUCTION OF MYLO AS A NEW MATERIAL IS A MAJOR STEP FORWARD IN OUR BOLD AMBITION TO HELP END PLASTIC WASTE” - AMY JONES VATERLAUS, GLOBAL HEAD OF FUTURE AT ADIDAS

Adidas chose the classic Stan Smith silhouette for this collaboration to find a sustainable alternative to one of the most in-demand shoes. Whilst this remains a concept shoe a limited drop will be available at the end of 2021.

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FAS H ION FUNG US CONTINUED

FAS HION F U NGU S C ONT I NU ED

“THE MAIN THING IS THERE’S REALLY NO COMPROMISE. I ALWAYS SAY THAT I DON’T WANT ANYONE TO KNOW OUR PRODUCTS AREN’T MADE OF LEATHER, AND IT’S SO IMPORTANT TO ME THAT THEY STAND SHOULDER TO SHOULDER WITH THE REAL THING” - STELLA MCCARTNEY

STELLA MCCARTNEY x Bolt Threads Stella McCartney made her first visit to the Bolt Threads design lab back in 2016 and she’s been working closely with them ever since. The brand has helped develop and scale the Mylo™ ‘un-leather’ and formed a consortium with Kering, Adidas, and Lululemon to invest heavily in the product development. Since then she has unveiled the industry’s first-ever Mylo garments, a black bustier and matching utility pants.

And, debuted on the SS22 runway the Frayme Mylo™ bag - the world’s first bag made from Bolt Thread’s mycelium technology to walk a Fashion Week runway.

The runway was a celebration of the fungi kingdom, a theme that Stella continued in her Future of Fashion installation at COP26 which featured both the bustier, pants and bag made from Mylo™.

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P IL Z PACKAGI NG

P I L Z PACK AGI NG

THIS PROCESS TAKES 7 DAYS, USES 12% OF THE ENERGY REQUIRED TO CREATE ITS PLASTIC EQUIVALENT, GENERATES 90% LESS CO2 EQUIVALENTS, AND ENTIRELY DECOMPOSES 45 DAYS AFTER BEING ADDED TO SOIL.

Instead of tackling the plastic problem by ensuring its reuse, Ecovative Design hopes to eliminate plastic use entirely with its compostable Ecovative Mushroom® Packaging. Ecovative’s technology allows them to grow mushroom packaging into moulds of any shape using only two ingredients, hemp hurds and mycelium. This process takes 7 days, uses 12% of the energy required to create its plastic equivalent, generates 90% less CO2 equivalents, and entirely decomposes 45 days after being added to soil. The only downside at the moment is still the price point, coming in at 10 times more expensive than styrofoam. For some companies this is an expense they are willing to take on, with customers demanding the reduction of packaging, the mushroom alternative functions as a manifesto for change.

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HAECKLES

HAECKLES

“MANUFACTURE THE MOST EFFECTIVE NATURAL PRODUCTS FROM SUSTAINABLE RESOURCES + USE BRAND TO INSPIRE + IMPLEMENT SOLUTIONS TO AID OUR PLANETS OCEAN CRISIS”

Having founded Haeckles after years of being a volunteer beach warden and coastal enthusiast Dom Bridges has found the missing link to his oceanfirst skincare brand through mushroom packaging.

Haeckles was born out of love and appreciation for the ocean, their products made from natural ingredients sustainably harvested from Margate’s coast. Whilst Haeckles has always used glass containers which they encourage consumers to reuse through the refill discount, only with mushroom packaging have they truly been able to fulfill their goal of protecting the ocean from plastic packaging. With this packaging Haeckles are able to prove their dedication to their manifesto.

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CH LOÉ BY GABRI ELA HEARST

CHLOÉ BY GAB R I EL A HEARS T

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CH LOÉ BY GABRI ELA HEARST

CHLOÉ BY GAB R I EL A HEARS T

Since the employment of Gabriela Hearst as the

Hearst’s inaugural collection for Chloé also featured

creative director of Chloé the fashion house has

knits made from recycled cashmere, and her

undergone extensive and commendable sustainable

collaboration with the Sheltersuit Foundation.

change. The first indication of this change was the

Sheltersuit is a social justice organization that provides

brands Instagram reset. Hearst made the decision

direct protection against cold and rain for homeless

to archive all of Chloé’s past posts and began

people through multifunctional clothing produced by

experimenting with a new nature first aesthetic. With

refugees. All the materials used for the production of

close-ups of oyster mushrooms, volcano eruptions,

these jackets are leftovers from the textile industry

bee hives, and natural structures dominating their feed

so the product is completely upcycled. In their

for the first six-months the account looked more like

collaboration with Chloé, Sheltersuit created a runway-

a national-geographic spin-off rather than that of a

ready version of their puffer jackets and a signature

luxury fashion house. As expected this drastic change

backpack, profits from which have gone into supporting

left some followers disgruntled but Hearst embraced

the foundation’s work. A true feat of artistic up-cycling,

this reaction, in her view ‘I think that we have become

the Chloé x Sheltersuit backpack features elements

accustomed to the artificial. When the natural is in front

from car seatbelts, tent fabric, deadstock shoe leathers,

of us, we feel a bit uncomfortable’.

straps and webbings, and deadstock fabric from past Chloé collections.

Unlike other brands who digitally embraced a ‘sustainable’ aesthetic but failed to match their products to it, Hearst has practically implemented sustainable innovation into her first two collections for Chloé.

Uniquely for a luxury fashion brand, Chloé has begun to embrace the re-sale of second-hand items tapping into the market dominated by re-sale platforms like Vestiaire Collective and Depop. For the AW21 collection Hearst bought old versions of the Edith bag on eBay, reconditioned and customised them before sending them down the catwalk. After the show the bags were sold in-store alongside brand-new stock.

WITHIN THE INDUSTRY HEARST HAS ESTABLISHED CHLOÉ AS A BEACON OF HOPE, A HUB OF CREATIVITY THAT ENGAGES WITH THE CLIMATE CRISIS THROUGH A SOLUTION FOCUSED APPROACH. HOLDING THE BELIEF THAT A MINDSET OF POSITIVITY, RATHER THAN DESPAIR, IS FAR MORE PERSUASIVE FOR CONSUMERS AND WORKERS, HEARST’S APPROACH IS EMBLEMATIC OF OUR ETHOS.

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P EOP LE AND P LANET POSITIVE

P EOP L E AND P L ANET P O S I T I V E

BY INVESTIGATING THE IMPACT OF YOUR SUPPLY CHAIN ON THE PLANET YOU ARE ALSO MADE AWARE OF THE TREATMENT OF YOUR WORKERS IN THE SUPPLY CHAIN.

So far our relationship with the environment has been heavily one-sided. We have exploited the resources available to us, extracting what we want and need without replenishing it. The irrevocable damage this linear trajectory has created, and continues to create, is why circularity is being hailed as the ultimate sustainable approach to business and life. But, in order to go further than purely damage limitation, this circular model needs to see us taking less and giving more - from people as well as the planet.

Through the process of becoming more environmentally responsible businesses will find that connections to social responsibility organically arise. By investigating the impact of your supply chain on the planet you are also made aware of the treatment of your workers in the supply chain. The two go hand-in-hand and exploring the connections between the social and environmental responsibility is where a well-rounded and long lasting approach to sustainability can be found. Brands that are collaborating with local or global communities and charities are able to positively feed the cycle of exchange that defines a circular economy.

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A N EW MODEL

A NEW MODEL

Since the launch of her eponymous clothing label in

Throughout her collections Bethany has always worked

2017, Bethany Williams has been surrounded by an

in close connection with social programmes, drawing

electric buzz in the fashion industry; winner of Queen

inspiration from the cause and their work as well as

Elizabeth II Award, LVMH Prize for Young Fashion

donating 20% of the profits back to the organisation.

Designers and the BFC/Vogue Designer Fund. From

In 2020 Bethany began her partnership with the

waste cardboard sourced from food banks, book

Magpie Project, a charity that works with children and

waste to tent linings, any and all deadstock and

mothers who are homeless or at risk of homelessness

recycled materials; Bethany Williams has always had

in Newham, a borough where 1 in 11 children are

environmental sustainability at her core. But what has

homeless. 80% of these people have no recourse to

defined her in the industry is how her label has come to

public funds because their leave to remain applications

signify a novel approach towards fashion, utilising it as

or refugee status are tied up in bureaucracy. Since first

a tool to bring about social change in an impact-first

teaming up with the charity, Bethany has completed

business model.

three collections with the help of Melissa Kitty Jarram, who illustrated designs inspired by the Magpie Families’ X HACHETTE Bethany’s iconic Book Bags are made from book cover waste provided by Hachette, and created by the textile workers at San Patrignano, an education and rehabilitation programme.

stories.

The way that Bethany Williams works is beyond material sustainability, it is making sure that the clothing is sustainable in the story it tells and the impact it makes. Bethany works to bring marginalised people and projects into the center and share the

X ROSIE EVANS

bright spotlight that the fashion industry has. Not only

Corsets created by the Welsh designer utilise offcuts

does she do this with charities but also through her

from the collection production. In these corsets, Rosie

collaborations with small independent artists and

has replaced traditional boning with a material made

designers such as Melissa Kitty Jarram, Rosie Evans,

out of fruit packaging waste.

Alice O’Mahoney and Helen Kirkum.

X ALICE O’MAHONEY Hand embroidered cotton thread with appliqued deadstock indian cotton by UAL alumni Alice.

“I JUST THINK THIS IS A VHS AND BETAMAX MOMENT, SHE IS THE NEW APPLE PHONE THE FIRST TIME IT CAME OUT - THIS IS A DIFFERENT GAME” JANE WILLIAMS, FOUNDER OF THE MAGPIE PROJECT

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It’s easy to shock readers with apocalyptic statistics about the climate crisis, it is even possible to create a countdown Climate Clock looming over your city.

These scare tactics might be valid attempts to convey the severity of our climate situation, but for many young adults this has left them ‘helpless’, ‘depressed’ and ‘overwhelmed’. It might be the role of protest groups to scare people into action, but we at KRPT° believe it is the role of brands to excite consumers about the prospect of a sustainable future.

TRANSPARENCY = HONESTY ABOVE EVERYTHING ELSE RECYCLING ≠ SUSTAINABLE WASTE = CREATIVE POTENTIAL FUTURE = COLLABORATIVE INNOVATION

By replacing fear with excitement, brands are able to motivate and drive forward innovative action. But, brands must remember that this momentum is reliant on collaboration, without B2B transparency true innovation comes to a halt.

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KRPT° focuses on insights, creative partnerships and experiences to bridge the gap between brands and culture. We let culture be the creator. www.krpt.co.uk

Studio Kaju is a creative agency based in London specialising in concepts, branding, design and art direction. www.studiokaju.com PUBLISHERS Mitun Thaker & Tom Molyneux WRITER Paula Borkmann CONTENT & RESEARCH Paula Borkmann CREATIVE Tharindu Elkin (Studio Kaju)

SOURCES Deloitte, ‘Shifting Sands: Are Consumers Still Embracing Sustainability’ (2021 Survey) GlobeScan, ‘SustainAbility: Sustainability Leaders’ (2021 Survey) James Welch, ‘Volkswagen Recovery: leaving scandal in the dust’, (2019 Article in Journal of Business Strategy)