Mirandus Issue 2

MIRANDUS THE MAGAZINE OF CHARLOTTE TRAVEL

Rail Journeys The World’s Most Luxurious

Quality Nepal Justin Wai A Passionate Pursuit

Kazakhstan

From the Mountains to the Steppes

TA H I T I A PL ACE OF TH E I M AG I NATI ON

Dear Charlotte Travel Travellers, As a family-run business, our clients are our family. Our founder, Jackie, has clients who have been with her for over 30 years. These are people who have grown with her in her career, and as her daughter, I wish to follow in her footsteps. Mr. Justin Wai was one of my very first clients and I have enjoyed helping him plan his travels over the years. Every time one of our clients is on the road, we wish for them to feel that we are there with them every step of the way to ensure they are looked after. Over drinks recently, Justin assured me he felt this level of care on each of his trips. I joined this business following my passion and looking for job satisfaction and if I could eat a slice of cake for every story like Justin’s, I would be very, proudly, overweight. I am so glad you will get to hear from Justin in this issue’s Mīrandus (pg 26).

We had a great response following our first issue, and I was so glad to hear it was well received. Many of you informed me personally how inspired you were to read stories directly from our founders on their trips to Greenland and Papua New Guinea. I am so glad that in this issue, we bring you more, inspiration and insider knowledge on the latest happenings in the luxury travel industry. I am so proud of my team who have put together the second issue of Mīrandus and hope you enjoy reading it.

Charlotte Harris

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親愛的樂悠遊旅人： 樂悠遊是家庭式旅行社，客人即是家人，創辦人吳月華女士投 身旅遊業近四十年，不少老顧客都看着我出生和成長。我踏着 母親的蹊徑，一步一腳印，期願做得更好，令客人每個行程和 住宿都順意安心。像我首位客人韋增鵬，主要由我編排其旅程， 他常說旅程舒服如獲家人照顧般。他竟是旅遊達人也堪稱樂 悠遊之友，讀者千萬不可錯過在 26 頁的《答客問》，他語語珠 璣，與君共享。我緣幸自小天涯足跡，旅遊既是事業，也是志業， 買賣不成人情在。 創刊號好評如潮，不少友朋反饋說特別鍾愛創業者親身經歷 的格陵蘭和巴布亞新畿內亞等旅程。本期將呈獻更多豪華旅 遊最新動態、內行人語和歷奇見聞等。在此感謝樂悠遊編輯團 隊，並希望大家欣賞和給予意見，推薦給摯愛親朋。心香一瓣， 消此永晝。 夏詩諾

E LECTRIC

AMERICAS

ASIA

EUROPE

MIDDLE EAST

CONTRIBUTORS 協力作者 Charlotte Travel owner Roger Harris has been travelling for 45 years, including overland through Africa and Asia, and stints living in South Africa, Oman, Saudi Arabia, Malaysia and now Hong Kong. His more adventurous exploits include Himalayan trekking and canoeing through Papua New Guinea, whilst work assignments have sent him to 15 countries across Asia.

“That Which is to be Wondered or Marvelled at”

45 年來，樂悠遊創辦人 Roger Harris 愛周 遊列國，足跡遍全球。他愛冒險，曾以陸路從 非洲到亞洲、徒步登上喜馬拉雅山及用獨木 舟橫渡巴布亞新畿內亞。因工作關係，曾旅居 十五個亞洲國家，包括阿曼、沙特阿拉伯、馬 來西亞，更遠至南非，現長居香港。

ART DIRECTOR 美術總監

Nick Walton is a Hong Kong-based travel photojournalist who regularly explores the world’s most remote corners, from the Northwest Passage to South Georgia and points in between.

He’s made wine in Georgia, swum with caiman in the Amazon, and camped on the ice in Antarctica, but never turns down a chance to explore vibrant cities in search of a good martini.

Nick Walton 是駐港攝影記者，經常遊歷全 球最偏僻角落，從極地西北航道至南喬治亞 州，以及兩者之間的地方。他曾到喬治亞州釀 酒、在亞馬遜河與短吻鱷暢泳，及在南極洲的 冰上露營，從不放棄任何尋找城中最好馬天 尼的機會。

PUBLISHER 出版

Charlotte Harris EDITOR AT LARGE 特約編輯

Roger Harris

MANAGING EDITOR 執行編輯

Nick Walton

nickwalton@artemiscomms.com CHINESE EDITOR 中文編輯

Gwen Leung Alvin Cheng

MARKETING AND ADVERTISING 市場推廣及廣告

marketing@charlottetravel.com.hk

Mīrandus is owned and published by Charlotte Travel, 8 Hart Ave, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong.

Mīrandus 由樂悠遊擁有及出版， 香港尖沙咀赫德道8號10樓Ａ及Ｂ室。

charlottetravel.com.hk

Mīrandus is produced by boutique custom publishing agency Artemis Communications Ltd. Mīrandus 由出版機構 Artemis Communications Ltd.編輯發行。

www.artemiscomms.com

All rights reserved: Copyright and distribution rights are reserved exclusively by Artemis Communications Ltd, its partners, associates and affiliates. All materials published remain the property of the production agency. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written permission. All information contained in this publication is from a reliable source. Artemis Communications Ltd and Charlotte Travel do not make any guarantees as to the accuracy of the information contained. 版權：本刊所有相關版權及發行權由 Artemis Communications Ltd. 及其合作夥伴、聯營公司及附屬機構 獨家擁有。所有出版文字及圖片均屬出版機構之財產，且受版權 保障，未經事先書面許可，均不得複製及轉載本刊物任何部份。 本刊中所有資料均為屬實，但 Artemis Communications Ltd. 及樂悠遊並不保證資料準確性及完整性。

A traditional outrigger in Tahiti

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WITNESS AUTHENTIC BEAUTY Mesmerizing sunrise over Doges Palace, Venice, Italy

EXPERIENCE THE ALL-NEW SILVER MOON ON HER MAIDEN SEASON IN THE MEDITERRANEAN

WE WERE BORN HERE. Welcome to our home, the Mediterranean Sea: the scents, the flavours, the sky and all the wonders underneath it, with the perfect ship to reach every special corner. Our all-new Silver Moon is built by cruise lovers, for cruise lovers, and will be the epitome of 21st century luxury travel, featuring the Sea And Land Taste (.S.A.L.T.) programme – an immersive culinary concept that will enable you to travel deeper through a range of destination based gastronomic experiences. Get ready - a new moon is coming.

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For reservation enquiries and more information please contact your Travel Advisor at: INFO@CHARLOTTETRAVEL.COM.HK or +852 2110 6070 All fares, savings, offers, itineraries, and programs are subject to change without notice. Voyage highlights, excursions, and enrichment programs are subject to change and/or cancellation without prior notice. All information contained herein is accurate and in effect at the time of printing. Silversea reserves the right to correct any errors and omissions and to cancel any offered product or service in the event of such error or omission. Additional restrictions may apply. Ships’ registry: The Bahamas and Ecuador. Visit silversea.com for full Terms & Conditions. Silversea Cruises (UK) Ltd., Silversea Cruises (UK) Ltd, 3 The Heights, Brooklands, Weybridge, Surrey, KT13 ONY, UK | branch Frankfurt, Taubenstr. 1, 60313 Frankfurt, Germany

CONTENTS

48

TRAIN JOURNEY 火車傲遊 THE WORLD’S MOST LUXURIOUS RAIL JOURNEYS

60

WELLNESS 洗滌心靈

KARMATIC CONCLUSIONS

因果業力

世界最豪華火車旅程

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DESTINATION 目的地

FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO THE STEPPES

從山巒到草原

17 INSIDE TRACK 內行人語 MADE IN MANHATTAN

曼克頓製造

26 CT TRAVELLER CT 旅人 A PASSIONATE PURSUIT

旅遊熱忱

42 THE INSPIRATOR 鼓舞人心 BILL IT & THEY WILL COME

慕名而來 盡興而歸

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FOUNDER'S ADVENTURES 創建者歷奇 A PLACE OF IMAGINATION

夢幻大溪地

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44 A DAY IN 一日精華遊 CAPE OF GOOD LIVING

好望角風情

CHARLOTTE’S RESERVE | 樂悠遊厚積人脈

Knowledge is Power

知識就是力量

Not only do clients of Charlotte Travel gain access to a wealth of travel knowledge, but they can also enjoy a raft of exclusive packages and indulgent perks when they hit the road.

樂悠遊的旅人不單涉獵豐富旅遊知識，在旅程中更可享受尊貴服務和回味無窮 的餽贈禮遇。 Stay four nights and only pay for three when you stay in any room category at One&Only Cape Town, one of Africa’s most luxurious urban retreats, before December 22, 2019.

The hotel rises seven storeys above one of the continent’s most famous harbours and boasts sumptuous accommodations, restaurants by celebrated chefs Nobu Matsuhisa and Reuben Riffel, and a spa located on its own private island. Terms and conditions apply. 凡於2019年12月22日前預訂南菲開普敦酒店 One&Only Cape Town任何房間類別，都可享用 「住四晚付三晚」優惠。酒店高七層，座落南非著 名港口，房間 敞，私家島上設水療中心，完全隱潎 寧靜；按摩完畢，享用日本名廚松久信幸和南菲名 廚羅魯賓主理的餐廳。優惠受條款及細則約束。 Be among the first guests to stay at the restored all-suite Raffles Singapore, one of the world’s most anticipated re-openings, with a special pre-opening offer from Charlotte Travel. Stay four nights and pay for three while also enjoying complimentary one-way Raffles airport limousine transfers when you book consecutive nights at this iconic hotel between August 1 and October 31, 2019. (Read more about this remarkable hotel on pg 18). Terms and conditions apply.

2019年8月1日至10月31日內預訂迷人的新加坡萊 佛士酒店，亦能享受「住四晚付三晚」優惠；如連 續入住兩晚，更有免費往來酒店和機場的單程豪華 轎車服務。萊 佛士屬全套房 酒店，剛全面 裝修完畢，萬 眾期待重新開 幕，樂悠遊特 別提供重開優 惠，請參考第 18頁《我愛萊 佛士》。優惠 受條款及細則 約束。

There’s nothing like a luxury cruise and the OLife Ultimate deal from Oceania Cruises ensures you make the most of your adventure at sea with complimentary internet access, a complimentary house beverage package, shipboard credit of up to US$400, and up to four free shore excursions. Enjoy these perks on a seven-day cruise between Monte Carlo and Rome aboard the Sirena departing August 16, 2019 and starting from US$1,999 per person; or on a 7-day cruise between Rome and Monte Carlo, on the Marina, departing November 4, 2019 and starting from US$1,699 per person. The booking deadline for this exclusive deal is June 30, 2019. 遊輪愛酷者，記得於2019年6月30日前預訂大洋郵輪，有豪華全包價 優待，包括免費無線上網、免費酒水及船上消費多至每人400美元， 還有多達四款免費岸上遊。如欲暑假乘船，可選海韻號，2019年8月 16日蒙地卡羅出發至羅馬七日遊，每人1,999美元起；或乘坐遠洋號 2019年11月4日羅馬至蒙地卡羅七日遊，每人1,699美元起。

M Ī R A N D U S

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CALENDAR | 精彩時刻

SOLO INTERNATIONAL PERFORMING ARTS

Held in the Surakartra region of Central Java, this festival features both traditional and contemporary performance art with an overriding theme of celebrating cultural diversity.

This year’s focus is on the rich history of the indigenous Solo people of Surakartra, which is showcased through dance, music and mesmerising traditional costumes.

梭羅國際表演藝術節

印尼中爪哇地區蘇拉加達，每年都 舉行的梭羅國際表演藝術節，合 傳統與現代多元文化表演，憑藉歌 舞和美幻民俗服飾展現梭羅豐厚 的原住民文化。

Solo, Indonesia | 印度尼西亞 梭羅

September 5-7, 2019

OKTOBERFEST 十月啤酒節

NUIT BLANCHE 不眠之夜

Munich, Germany | 德國 慕尼黑

Sep 21 - Oct 6, 2019 This annual event holds the title for the largest folk festival in the world, attracting six million visitors a year. It’s not just about drinking beer, but more-so a celebration of rich Bavarian heritage; in addition to the iconic beer tents, dancing and music are both performed in traditional dress, while parade floats commemorating German heritage are ushered through the city. 每年，慕尼黑啤酒節吸引六百萬遊客前來參加全球最大型的 民俗節日，當然不止喝啤酒這麼簡單，還處處流露巴伐利亞 重要文化遺產。啤酒帳篷別樹一幟，人人穿上民俗服飾歌舞 翩翩，更不要錯過穿街過市，充滿德國風情的飄色巡遊。 10

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Paris, France | 法國 巴黎

October 5, 2019 Paris outstretches the arms of its countless creatives for a night of cultural celebration. During this unique onenight event, the city is transformed with neon lights, public art exhibitions and live theatre, while street shows, concerts and museums are all on display and free to the public. 巴黎張開雙臂與你共擁一個完全免費的文化之夜，每年只此 一晚，全市開放公共藝術展覽、即興劇場、街頭雜耍、音樂 廳和博物館，霓虹燈色盡放，與君共賞。

CALENDAR | 精彩時刻

Cruising Asia’s Mekong River between Vietnam and Cambodia, the 205-foot Aqua Mekong is a floating five-star hotel with an exclusive 1 to 1 crew-to-guest ratio. The sustainably crafted ship’s 20 designer suites — the river’s largest guestrooms — overlook the Mekong through floor-to-ceiling windows.

This is also the only ship on this stretch of the river to offer a fully equipped gym, screening room, outdoor cinema, observation deck and an upper-deck pool.

View activities and excursions on the Aqua Mekong on your mobile!

Dine on world-class dishes created by top Southeast Asian cuisine chef, David Thompson and board the Mekong’s only private tenders for expert-guided shore excursions to serene Buddhist temples and stilted villages or explore the unique landscape by bicycle and kayak.

Most exclusive staff to guest

All excursions

The Mekong’s only

on the river

guests per guide

elegant aluminium launch boats

World-class dining program with Consulting Chef David Thompson

Sleek and contemporary award-winning interior design

Kayaking and biking excursions

www.aquaexpeditions.com

All suites measure

square feet

The Mekong’s only forwardfacing shaded

Family suites measure

square feet

The Mekong’s only private indoor and outdoor screening room

M Ī R A N D U S

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SNAPSHOT | 旅遊剪影

QUALITY

N E PA L 尼泊爾 樂逍遙

Roger Harris digs deeper in Nepal to discover how tourism is evolving to better cater for travellers who value a few creature comforts along with their adventurers. 喜馬拉雅山峰高聳入雲，夏羅傑探索尼泊爾鳥語花香， 走獸飛禽，檢視配套，讓愛旅客歷奇時更舒適愜意。

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SNAPSHOT | 旅遊剪影

M Ī R A N D U S

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SNAPSHOT | 旅遊剪影

A

s travel branding goes, Nepal stands out as a destination that is strongly focused on mountaineering, trekking and back-packing for budget travellers and adventurers. Hardly surprising with the Himalayas dominating the terrain and with eight of the ten highest mountains in the world. Combined with its mix of Hindu and Buddhist cultures, a visit to Nepal comes close to a mystical experience for western visitors, one that is hardly comparable with anywhere else.

Accommodations on the trekking routes are largely limited to local tea houses and small lodges. However, there is now a growing number of smarter properties bordering on luxurious, that cater to softer adventurers who fully appreciate Nepal’s scenery, wildlife and culture but also value higher-quality comfort and service, with several owners and operators now joining forces to promote the concept of ‘Quality Nepal’. 旅遊定位中，尼泊爾注定是攀山客、徒步旅者和背包客的聖地。地處喜馬拉雅山 脈南麓，風光旖旎，世上最高之十峰，境內佔八。印度教和佛教古來瀰漫其間；西 方旅人對於神秘的山巒戀慕不已，尼泊爾確實無與倫比。山區住宿往昔盡是茶寮 和民宿，現代旅業經營團隊努力建立「優質尼泊爾」概念，建設時髦舒適旅館，好 讓優皮旅客不覺舟車勞頓，全情投入野生生態、文化和高山風情。

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SNAPSHOT | 旅遊剪影

The Dwarika’s Hotel features traditional terracotta designs and wood carvings to revive the architectural splendour of the Kathmandu Valley during the 15th17th centuries. 德瓦利卡酒店放滿兵馬俑和木雕藝術設計，完全活化了十五至 十七世紀加德滿都山谷的雄奇建築風貌。

The Dwarika’s Resort in nearby Dhulikhel combines environmental responsibility, traditional architecture and stunning views across the Annapurna Himal with Ayurvedic healing and spirituality to help guests achieve a greater sense of peace within. 而德瓦利卡度假中心在杜利克爾小鎮，遠眺安娜普爾納群峰， 結合環保使命和傳統建築風格，先享用獨特的阿育吠陀療法， 頃刻間回復心靈恬靜。

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SNAPSHOT | 寰球掠影

Tiger Tops’ intimate lodges located in Bardia and Chitwan national parks provide sustainable high-end wildlife tourism in comfort and privacy. The jungle parks are renowned for their tigers, rhinos, elephants, crocodiles, leopards, and deer.

The Pavilions Himalayas offers villas of classic Nepalese design in a rustic setting with modern comforts. All villas offer forest and mountain views with the opportunity for sightseeing around Pokhara Valley and hiking and biking for the more active.

Meghauli Serai is a 30-room lodge on the banks of the Rapti River in Chitwan National Park. Activities include gamespotting by jeep with sundown cocktails on the river bank.

Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge features a cluster of hand-cut stone cottages perched on a hillside dominated by a dramatic view of 7,000-metre-high Machhapuchhare. The parquet floors, rich Tibetan rugs, handmade wood furniture and original artwork make for solitude in comfort with opportunities for bird walks and day hikes through adjacent forests and villages and congenial evenings by log fire in the bar.

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Tiger Tops 均在巴迪亞和奇旺兩個國家公園建了 舒服又私隱度高的旅舍，以發展可持續及有質素 野外生態旅遊為己任，令人翱翔乎忽荒之上，徜 徉乎老虎、犀牛、大象、鱷魚、斑豹和野鹿之間。 另一間在喜馬拉雅山脈上的旅館 The Pavilions Himalaya，充滿尼泊爾古典建築風味，既有鄉士氣 息又具有現世優渥，全部別墅擁山林景致，毗鄰博 卡拉山谷，精力充沛的旅人可以遠足和騎單車。 Meghauli Serai 有 30 間山林小屋，座落奇旺國 家公園拉普蒂河畔，旅人可乘坐吉普車觀賞野生 動物，或在河邊嘆一杯日落雞尾酒。 Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge 由多間手造石 屋組成，位處七千米高魚尾峰處女雪山山麓，鑲 花地板、西藏毛氈、木製傢具和藝術品真跡處處， 舒適隱世之餘又能遠足觀鳥，晚上於酒吧圍火共 醉酡顏。

MADE IN

INSIDE TRACK | 內行人語

MANHATTAN

曼

克

頓

製

造

If you’re looking for an excuse to visit the Big Apple, three new luxury hotels are giving Manhattan an injection of vitality. By Nick Walton

Moxy Chelsea

Sophisticated yet playful, the 349room Stonehill Taylor-designed Moxy Chelsea opened in February and blends an exciting, botanicallyinspired design with a touch of Italian romance at the heart of the city’s Flower District. Guest rooms have been designed by Yabu Pushelberg and are cosy and functional – our favourite has to be the double-height Mondo Suite with its oversized wet bar, full kitchen, and views of the Empire State Building through industrialstyled windows.

Moxy Chelsea 在曼克頓花墟中心， 本年二月才開張，有 349 個客房，當代 建築師 Stonehill Taylor 以植物為主 調，融合意大利浪漫激情設計得細緻靈 巧。設計師 Yabu Pushelberg 把客房 弄成實用舒適，推薦極品套房 Mondo Suite，雙層高天花，特大酒吧區，一應 俱全，窗外帝國大廈一覽無遺。需備時 間品嚐著名廚師 Franceso Panella 主 理的意大利餐廳 Feroce，菜式傳統新 潮共冶一爐。

如想找個理由往紐約旅遊，以下三幢座落地王曼克頓區 的蔟新豪華酒店，或許就是令你立即登上機艙的絕佳 理由。

Park Terrace Hotel

Another newbie brings a touch of Downtown chic to Midtown. The Park Terrace Hotel features 226 guest rooms, each of which boasts views of the Empire State Building, Bryant Park or the New York Public Library through floor-to-ceiling windows. Another creation by Stonehill Taylor, the hotel’s guest spaces are bright, fresh and boast a slick, minimalist design persona.

The hotel’s year-round terrace is the best place for leisurely breakfasts and evening cocktails by Gates Otsuji. 從時尚曼克頓下城走到中城，亦是 Stonehill Taylor 設計的酒店，有 226 個客房，全部落地玻璃，亦能俯瞰帝國 大廈、布萊恩特公園（Br yant Park）或 紐約公共圖書館。大堂休憩空間運用極 簡主義設計，明亮清爽，暖意迎人。酒店 陽臺四季常開，享受一頓悠閒早餐時， 居高臨下公園種滿綠油油倫敦梧桐；或 終日流連，感染大蘋果魅力，再嘆一杯 調酒師 Gates Otsuji 精心泡製的誘人 鷄尾酒。

The Edition Times Square

The Edition Times Square opened in February on Seventh Ave and 47th Street, and boasts 452 guest rooms as well as its own 1,524sqm performance space, a 579sqm studio, and an expansive beer garden and event deck overlooking the iconic namesake square.

Be sure to visit the chic rooftop cocktail bar and to book well ahead for corner suites that overlook the bustle of the Big Apple far below. 這是萬豪艾迪遜酒店品牌設在曼克頓 的第二間酒店，本年二月開張，位於 47 街和第七大道交界的 20 號時代廣場綜 合大樓。酒店在大樓 12 至 40 樓層，共 452 間客房，表演場地有 1,524 平方米， 練習室 579 平方米。不能錯過天台人氣 鼎盛鷄尾酒吧，共醉在轉角包廂看大都 會滾滾紅塵和車水馬龍川流不息，必須 預定，以免向隅。

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ADVERTORIAL | 特約撰稿

Raffles Singapore, one of the world’s Grand Dame hotels, prepares for its triumphant return in August 2019 after an unprecedented revitalisation.

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ADVERTORIAL | 特約撰稿

This year is set to herald the rebirth of an icon; following over 130 years of unsurpassed service excellence, Raffles Singapore has undergone a careful and sensitive restoration with plans to reopen its doors from August 2019. This includes an expansion of its luxurious all-suite accommodation to 115, with the introduction of exquisite new suite categories, a revival of perennial favorites such as the legendary Singapore Sling at the Long Bar, the renowned Afternoon Tea at the Grand Lobby, the Raffles Boutique featuring exclusive Raffles merchandise, and the enlistment of globally celebrated celebrity chefs to head some of its new restaurants.

The grand hotel’s new Studio and Residence Suites will feature its signature lofty colonial architecture, a charming verandah, and polished teakwood floors. Old-world accents such as original four-meter high ceilings harmonise perfectly with the Residence suites’ newlyadded parlour, pantry, dining area and powder room. These changes have been choreographed by Alexandra Champalimaud, the renowned design agency that has worked on some of the world’s great luxury hotels, including The Dorchester in London, Hotel Bel-Air in Los Angeles and The Waldorf Astoria New York.

The Raffles dining experience has also been elevated with ten new restaurants set to open, including two new concepts helmed by Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse and Anne-Sophie Pic. Chef Ducasse – with 20 restaurants already under his belt – will run restaurant BBR by Alain Ducasse, situated within the hotel’s 122-year-old Bar & Billiard Room, serving Latin-Mediterranean cuisine with Portuguese, Spanish, Italian and French influences. Three Michelin-starred Chef Anne-Sophie Pic will be the visionary behind La Dame de Pic, serving delectable French cuisine with an emphasis on aromatic complexity, flavour combinations and powerful, emotive tastes. Another notable opening will be that of Jereme Leung, one of the most influential chefs in the modern Chinese culinary movement.

His restaurant 藝 (yì) by Jereme Leung, which stands for ‘Art’, will be located within the refreshed Raffles Arcade, focusing on centuries of culinary mastery and the intricacies of Chinese cuisine, from Cantonese classics to adaptions of China’s ancient delicacies.

Raffles Singapore, 1 Beach Rd, Singapore 189673 Website: www.rafflessingapore.com

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Tentastic Retreat 觀星帳篷

High Class Travel 雲端飛翔 British Airways has revamped its First Class with new bedding, amenities and menus that would not look out of place in a revered five-star British hotel. New additions to the airline’s First Class offering include sophisticated new loungewear designed by luxury British fashion brand Temperley London, which is coupled with bespoke amenity kits featuring Temperley’s “Star” design and products from British skincare brand ELEMIS as well as the essentials to cleanse, revive and hydrate. The airline’s chefs have also designed delicious new a la carte menus that focus on fresh seasonal ingredients of British provenance, with dishes served on elegant bone china crockery by tableware designer William Edwards and paired with new tableware by Studio William and elegant Dartington crystal glassware. Look out for a new signature afternoon tea service featuring a selection of sandwiches, delicate pastries and scones, as well as a wide range of tea infusions; an improved turndown service thanks to new luxurious 400-thread count bedding; and new high-performance headphones crafted by British audio pioneers Meridian. 英航剛提升頭等艙服務，由座椅、 用品至餐食也耳目一新，恍如置 身英國五星級酒店。著名英倫品 牌 Temperley London 為頭等 艙乘客專誠設計星級便服，配上 ELEMIS 護膚、修復、滋潤和清潔 用品。廚師專注安排採用英國時 鮮烹調套餐，陶瓷餐具由名師威 廉愛德華茲設計，威廉工作坊負 責製造，配上精美的達汀頓水晶 酒杯。簇新推薦的下午茶有不同 類別三文治、饀餅、鬆餅，五花八 門的茶葉；躺下休息時，床舖被褥 都是全新 400 針數柔軟舒適，耳 筒是英國名牌音響 Meridian。 20

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Commune with nature at Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi, which has launched safaristyle Jungle Tented Villas that offer guests a captivating encounter under the stars of the Indian Ocean. Located at the heart of the resort’s inland jungle, the new Tented Villas feature alfresco living spaces, outdoor rain showers, roll-top tubs, locally-sourced rustic amber-tinted interiors, handmade furnishings, private plunge pools and of course, complete seclusion. Film aficionados can arrange a private pop-up cinema screening; the adventurous can set sail to a nearby deserted island for a castaway picnic; and the active can head out to sea for a sunrise fishing trip and learn the art of Maldivian line fishing, before heading back to their jungle abode for a private jungle BBQ of traditional Maldivian dishes. Alternatively, opt for a spa treatment in the privacy of the villa, and be seduced by the sound of the wind in the palms above. 馬爾代夫酒店終於有新猷！ Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi 剛開幕，除了傳統獨立水上別墅，還 設計不少如非洲野 篷式獨立屋，每屋都有露天起居 間和戶外花灑設施，晚上能觀看印度洋繁星閃爍。雖 則帳篷式設計，裝潢豪華，用料上乘，浴缸採用當地 瑪瑙人手打造，私家泳池，絕對隱密。酒店可為影痴 安排裝置銀幕獨家放映電影；愛冒險的人可乘帆到 荒島野餐；好動者在清晨出海學習馬爾代夫持竿釣 藝術，將漁穫帶回篷帳，來一頓私家馬爾代夫傳統燒 烤。當然可以在天風雲影下，在酒店內蔚柳溪水療中 心消磨一整天。

ENCOUNTERS | 定時邂逅

Cruise the Seven Seas 遨遊七海 Cruise lovers can now book inaugural season itineraries aboard Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ newest ship, Seven Seas Splendor, which launches in February. The new ship promises to set a new standard for luxury; catering to just 750 guests, the all-suite, all-balcony ship will join her sister ship, Seven Seas Explorer, in boasting some of the highest space ratio in the cruise industry. Featuring intricate marble, soaring ceilings, elegant design and authentic craftsmanship, the palace at sea will embark on its first journey on February 6, 2020, with a 14-night transatlantic journey from Barcelona to Miami, followed by itineraries that explore the Mediterranean, Caribbean and North America. Book with Charlotte Travel and receive exclusive benefits* including private welcome cocktail reception hosted by a dedicated host onboard, Shipboard credit and private shore excursions. *Benefits available on selected sailings, please check

喜歡海上樂逍遙，千萬不要錯過麗晶七海郵輪明年二 月處女航的七海輝煌號；全新建造的超級豪華客輪， 全部套房設露台，只招待 750 位賓客。和七海探索號 結為姊妹船隊，創下遊輪面積與賓客最大使用率。大 堂天花高懸，雲石鋪砌，巧手精美工藝；2020 年 2 月 6 日首航橫渡大西洋十四天，由巴塞隆拿至邁亞美， 之後航程將覆蓋地中海、加勒比海和北美洲。凡經樂 悠遊預訂，即可享獨家優惠，* 包括獨家迎賓酒會，可 獲贈船上消費額和私人岸上游覽。

with Charlotte Travel Cruise Advisors for details.

* 優惠只適用於特定航班，請聯繫樂悠遊旅遊顧問了解詳情。

Your New Singapore Hideaway 六善酒店 Six Senses Maxwell has opened in Singapore’s historic Tanjong Pagar district, completing the brand’s first ever city hotel project after the opening of sister property Six Senses Duxton, with both locations together comprising Six Senses Singapore. Originally the site of a nutmeg plantation, the hotel’s 14 three-storey and four-storey colonial-style buildings were built in 1929 and showcase the refined yet flamboyant and sensual aesthetic of renowned French architect and interior designer Jacques Garcia. Six Senses Maxwell accommodates 138 guest rooms and suites, all thoughtfully decorated with custom furnishings, William Yeoward glassware and Naturalmat mattresses, organic linens by Beaumont & Brown and original artwork. Look out for the 25-metre outdoor rooftop lap pool and cocktail bar; eclectic cocktails influenced by Straits Heritage at Cook & Tras; and sustainable cuisine at The Murray Terrace Brasserie.

電影《六福客棧》遐邇聞名，新加坡麥士威路六善酒 店和達士頓六善酒店組合成發思古幽情的六善客棧。 和達士頓本是荳蔻種植場，由法國設計教父嘉西亞 重新設計十四幢建於 1929 年代極富殖民地色彩的 三、四層高古老大樓，各房有自然景觀，配合六善超 卓賓客服務，完美結合創造回歸本我之地。麥士威路 六善酒店毗鄰牛車水中心，最多招待 138 位賓客，客 房放了 Naturalmat 有機床褥和博蒙特布朗有機床 上用品、威廉楊沃 出 玻璃盛器和各藝術擺置。天台 有 25 米長泳池和雞尾酒吧，Cook & Tras 酒吧帶海 峽遺風，Murray Terrace Brasserie 饒有風味。

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High Praise 伊斯坦堡 Raffles Istanbul is the only hotel in Turkey to earn the Forbes Travel Guide Five-Star award in the publication’s elite 2019 listing. Located at the heart of Zorlu Centre, one of the Turkish city’s most coveted retail precincts (and home to a performing arts centre and the country’s first Eataly outpost), Raffles Istanbul features stunning views across the Bosphorus as well as 24-hour butler service, sumptuous guest rooms and suites, and one of the city’s most acclaimed high teas, at Lavinia. Look out for the spa, which features an enticing indoor pool and three hammams (a Turkish essential) as well as international cuisine at Rocca Brasserie and elegant Pan-Asian fare at Isokyo.

2019 年福布斯旅遊指南，土耳其只有伊斯坦堡萊佛 士酒店得到五星級榮譽；萊佛士座落達佐盧商場心 藏地帶，是首都圈最受歡迎的零售購物區及表演藝

術中心，也是該國首家美食主題樂園 Eataly 大展鴻 圖之地。酒店高踞博斯普魯斯海峽，客房及套房舒適 寬敞，設 24 小時管家服務。要品嚐下午茶，Lavinia 無出其右；要誘人室內浴池和土耳其式三溫暖就要 到 spa；Rocca Brasserie 有國際美膳；Isokyo 則獨 擅東南亞美食。

An Icon Reborn 倫敦秋思 If you find yourself headed to the British capital, Belmond has breathed new life into one of Chelsea’s most iconic houses of slumber with the opening of Belmond Cadogan Hotel. Located on Sloane Street, the former Cadogan Hotel has received a multi-million-pound facelift across its 54 eclectic rooms and suites, many of which now feature working fireplaces, separate dining spaces, in-room libraries curated by Chelsea institution John Sandoe, free-standing soak tubs, handcrafted in-room bars featuring cocktails by Adam Handling, and views over Cadogan Place Gardens. Luxury lovers will appreciate details such as the Prince of Wales’ feathers in the original dining room of Lillie

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Langtree (one of the hotel’s many famous past-residents), botanical mosaics on the floor tiles and wood panelling, which preserve the historical fabric of the hotel, whilst bold colours, lush fabrics and deeply relaxing furniture create a modern retreat. Be sure to leave time for reinvented British bites at chef Patron Adam Handling’s eponymously-named dining room, and classic cocktails laced with small batch local spirits in the hotel bar. 啟程前往倫敦，最好入住剛花幾百萬英鎊裝修的貝 爾蒙德卡多根酒店，位於秋思區斯隆街，只有 54 個 客房，全觀卡多根公園，有壁爐、 用餐區和大浴缸，驟然成為倫敦 最新地標！酒店處處洋溢現代 與傳統美感，好像由以昔日客人 Lillie Langtree 命名的餐飲間， 原裝保留地板和木牆，盡是植物 花卉圖案，織物瑰麗，顏色出奇， 連傢俬也惹人鍾愛，亦放置鑲嵌 了威爾斯親王的和平之盾。圖書 庫由著名書店老闆 John Sandoe 的秋思文社蒐集。餐廳以名廚 Adam Handling 命名，提供現代 英式美食，更與著名酒保 Adam Handling 合力泡制典型雞尾酒。

ENCOUNTERS | 定時邂逅

New Jewel on the Mekong 湄公瑰寶 The Uniworld Boutique River Cruising Collection is set to launch its newest luxury vessel, Super Ship Mekong Jewel, on one of Asia’s most important rivers. The S.S. Mekong Jewel, which will feature two dining venues, a swimming pool and all-suite accommodations, sets sail in January 2020 on 13-day itineraries that will take guests from Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reap, with visits to Phnom Penh, Angkor Wat and more. Cruisers can expect a newly-built vessel catering to just 68 guests, with al fresco dining on the upper deck, more space that other Uniworld ships, and one of the highest staff-toguest ratios on the river. 寰宇精品河船近日推出最豪華的超級湄公珍寶號，船 上有兩個餐廳和一個游泳池，露天雅座在最上層，全 部套房設施，只招待 68 名賓客，船上空間較其他寰 宇精品河船更舒敞，客人與員工比率更高。2020 年 一月三日啟航，穿梭於亞洲最重要河流之一湄公河， 十三日航程由胡志明市到暹粒，途經金邊、吳哥窟等 古蹟名勝。

Aman to Open in Kyoto 京都紅葉 and Spa Pavilions, six pavilions including two housing luxurious pavilions. Strikingly minimalist in their design, guest rooms will feature floor-to-ceiling windows, custom-designed furniture, tatami mats covering the floors, and ofuro bathtubs made from endemic hinoki cypress wood. Carefully selected artefacts have been selected for each space, celebrating the refined aesthetic and creative values of Japan. Aman Kyoto’s signature restaurant will showcase Japanese haute cuisine with a multi-course dining experience that will make use of the finest hand-picked local produce. Be sure to leave time for a traditional afternoon tea served with traditional wooden boxes and be inspired by Japanese sweets “Wagasi”.

Aman will open Aman Kyoto, the brand’s third resort in Japan, this November, bringing new levels of luxury to the country’s former imperial capital. Situated in a once-forgotten garden close to the Kinkaku-ji Temple, the resort will boast just 24 rooms and two two-bedroom pavilions, each of which draws on the country’s ryokan and onsen traditions. Hidden at the foot of the symbolic Mountain of Hidari Daimonji, in the city’s north, in a 32-hectare maple and cedar forested estate, Aman Kyoto will combine intimate, manicured gardens with architecture by Kerry Hill Architects, who designed both Aman Tokyo and Amanemu. Consisting of a series of stand-alone pavilions, each with a distinct function, Aman Kyoto includes separate Arrival, Living, Dining 24

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今年十一月，安縵將在日本開設第三間酒店，座落日本古都京 都，穩身在大文字山腳金閣寺附近一個園林中，只有 24 間客 房，把日式溫泉酒店窩心款待之道推到極致！開幕正值紅葉季 節，酒店內有 32 畝楓林紅葉林，沿途滿佈地藏菩薩石像，迂 迴林間曲徑，蒼苔石基，含蓄感性基調，正是四百多年前日本 琳派藝術家發源地。與東京和伊勢兩間安縵一脈相承，同出自 澳洲設計大師 Kerry Hill 之手。京都安縵有迎客亭、休憩亭、 用膳亭和水療亭，六座客舍有兩幢豪華別墅，極簡設計，落地 玻璃，傳統傢具，地板敷榻榻米，設日本扁柏木造浸泡式浴缸， 藝術擺放流露日本創意美感。採用新鮮時令食材泡製健康精 美饌，還以傳統木盒盛載傳統下午茶，活色生香。

CT TRAVELLER | CT 旅人

A Passionate Pursuit 旅 遊熱 忱 Justin Wai fell in love with travel at a young age and today he follows the same passion to the world’s farthest corners as a loyal client of Charlotte Travel. 樂悠遊鐵 粉絲韋增鵬自小與旅遊結下不解緣，足迹遍佈天 涯海角。 Taken at Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley

Tell us about your last trip? What were the lasting memories? 請問最近往哪裏旅遊？分享一下難忘遊歷。

Our most recent trip was to Sydney. I spent some time there professionally in my early twenties but never got to experience it as a tourist. The weather was amazing; temperatures were in the low 20s and the sun was shining every day. We stayed at the Park Hyatt and got upgraded to a suite (thanks Charlotte!) that had a postcard-perfect view of the Harbour Bridge and Opera House. We ended up ordering room service a lot! 最近到訪澳洲悉尼。20 多歲時我曾經在此工作，卻首次以旅人 26

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身份前來。悉尼天氣非常好，日日陽光燦爛，溫度在攝氏 20 度 以下。我們下榻悉尼柏悅酒店，多謝 Charlotte 巧妙安排將客 房升級為套房，窗外悉尼大橋和歌劇院盡收眼簾，像明信片一 樣的風景畫，幾乎早、午、晚三餐都賴在房中。

You studied hotel administration at Cornell; what inspired you to explore the hospitality industry? 你出身於長春藤康奈爾大學的酒店行政管理，甚麼讓你鍾情於 禮遇服務行業？

My parents love to travel, and I was fortunate to have the opportunity to visit many places when I was a child.

I think the hotel that changed my perspective of the

CT TRAVELLER | CT 旅人 hospitality industry is the Hilton Waikoloa Village in Hawaii. It was built in the late 80s when the Japanese economy was booming, so no cost was spared when they developed it. I was seven when I visited the property and I was mesmerised, not so much by the beauty of the place, but rather how challenging it must have been to manage a hotel like that. 父母酷愛旅遊，感謝讓我童年時已到訪不少地方。最令我震撼 和改變對禮遇服務行業認知是位於夏威夷大島的希爾頓酒店 Hilton Waikoloa Village。酒店建於上世紀八十年代日本經濟 如日中天之際，不計成本，只求盡善盡美。那時我才七歲，不單 迷倒其美麗外觀，更奇怪酒店如何領導員工待客體貼入微，事 事做足一百分。

We know you used to read the Relais & Chateaux guide cover to cover – what was it about this iconic guide that inspired you and how has it influenced the way you travel today? 知道你對羅萊夏朵旅遊指南唸得滾瓜爛熟，對你有何啟發？又 怎影響你未來旅遊計劃呢？

I read the Relais & Chateaux guide cover to cover so many times that even my parents thought I was a bit weird. I got a copy of it during a family trip to Provence when I was 13. We were on a road trip and stayed for a couple of nights at Chateau De Rochegude, which is a fortress built in the 12th century and now a member of Relais & Chateaux. The hotel was not that luxurious, but it is definitely one of those places that I will remember forever; it was full of antiques, and each room was unique and named after a historical figure. I realised the Relais & Chateaux guide had 300-plus pages of similar properties in Europe and over the years, I have made an effort to visit my “bookmarked” properties. 我自小已不知翻閱這本頂級餐廳與旅館指南多少次，連父母都 覺得我過度著迷。事源一次家庭旅行，到法國普羅旺斯入住羅 萊夏朵酒店成員之一，建於十二世紀的羅什古德城堡酒店，本 身不屬奢華系列，獨特之處四圍放滿出土文物，每一個房間都 以歷史人物命名，令我眼界大開，終身難忘。那時才十三歲，首 次閱讀羅萊夏朵指南，三百多頁盡是類似的歐洲建築，至今仍 歷歷在目。往後多年，我仍尋訪這些心儀建築。

As a self-confessed ‘hotel geek’ – what do you look for in a hotel and what are some of your favourite houses of slumber? 你自認是「酒店痴」，請問如何選擇酒店？那些是甜睡鄉？

I look for uniqueness and authenticity in hotels, and like many of Charlotte’s clients I’m an “Aman-junkie” with Amanpulo, Aman Venice and Amangiri among my favourites. Call me crazy, but I left each feeling like I had grown as a person. There is something spiritual about the Aman journey; they are often removed from the hustle and bustle of city life and encourage guests to slow down and self-reflect.

Amanpulo、安縵威尼斯和位於大峽谷的 Amangiri。不要認為 我傻，每次離開酒店，仍感覺有股令自我提升力量。入住安縵根 本是趟心靈之旅，遠離煩囂滾滾紅塵，調和步伐，回復恬靜自省， 寧靜致遠。

You’re also a foodie – what destinations excite your taste buds and where are you dying to dine? 你也是老饕，哪裡哪處能挑起你的味蕾？

Tokyo, by far, followed by Paris. The only limitation that I have when it comes to dining is that I have the patience level of a three-year-old. We once went to l’Arpège in Paris for dinner and it took us four hours to finish. I nearly died from boredom and couldn’t help but play with the tomato decorations on the table (until a couple fell on the floor and the manager politely told me off). At this moment, I am dying to go back to UkaiTei Omotesando in Tokyo for a teppanyaki feast. 首選東京，其次巴黎。於我，用餐是種考驗，因只有三歲小孩 的耐性程度。有一次我們在巴黎米芝蓮三星級素食者聖地 l’Arpege 享用晚餐，卻前後吃足四小時，我百無聊賴把玩著餐 桌上的番茄裝飾，結果丟了幾顆在地上，惹來經理一頓白眼。當 下，我最渴望就是立即回到東京澀谷區表參道著名鐵板燒餐廳 「亭」，開懷吃頓盛宴。

You’re involved in charity work in Hong Kong, including a position on the Advisory Board of Hong Kong Government’s Partnership Fund for the Disadvantaged. How can travel help bolster communities in the destinations we travel to? 你參與香港的慈善工作，身兼香港政府攜手扶弱基金諮詢委員， 任重道遠。究竟旅遊怎能強化社區凝聚力？

Apart from the obvious economic benefits that tourism brings to local communities, I think tourism can also benefit the world by fostering dialogue between people from completely different backgrounds. I think tourism can change a community socially as well as economically. On this front, I have heard a lot about the wonderful work that the folks at Fogo Island (Newfoundland, Canada) are doing and plan to visit in October. 旅遊業可為當地產生經濟效益外，我深信能夠讓完全不同背景 的人互相對話，和諧共處，改進社區經濟和面貌。常常聽到加拿 大紐芬蘭省福戈島的島民如何努力促進文化和加強綠色旅遊， 我已安排十月份前往取經。

You try to visit at least one new country each year what destinations remain on your bucket list? 你願望每年要遊歷一個新國家，最要去哪些地方呢？

So many, but my near-term priorities are the Scottish Highlands, Portugal and Bhutan. 還有很多很多，現在最想去蘇格蘭高原、葡萄牙和不丹。

我跟許多樂悠遊客人一樣是典型「安縵迷」，其中最愛是菲律賓 M Ī R A N D U S

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FOUNDER’S ADVENTURES | 創建者歷奇

Roger Harris journeys to remote Tahiti, in French Polynesia, in the footsteps of the many explores, navigators, artists and actors that have woven the western fantasy of the South Seas. 跟隨前賢先哲、探險家、航海家、藝 術家和明星，樂悠遊創辦人夏羅傑踏 足遠在天邊的法屬波利尼西亞大溪 地，在南海的島上編織西方狂想曲。

TAHITI

A Place of the Imagination

夢幻大 溪地

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ahiti is as much a place of the imagination as it is a place on the map. The largest of the 118 islands that make up French Polynesia, it’s home to around 70 percent of its population, of whom two thirds are ethnic Polynesians. The indigenous residents descend from early travellers who are believed to have navigated outrigger canoes across thousands of kilometres of ocean to reach a paradise so remote, it is thought to be one of the last places on earth to be settled by humans. Despite the formation of a sophisticated civilisation based on kingdoms and clans, the islands seem to have woven their way into the global imagination through the incursions of an eclectic mix of remarkable foreigners, whose visits had profound effects upon residents and visitors alike.

paradise where men and women lived in blissful innocence, far from the corruption of civilisation.” He characterised the Tahitians as noble savages, which no doubt influenced the romantic visions of later travellers, artists and philosophers who descended on this remote archipelago when they become disillusioned with western ways of living and thinking.

In June 1767, the British naval officer and explorer Samuel Wallis made the first recorded visit to Tahiti by a European navigator. His ship HMS Dolphin stayed in Tahiti’s Matavai Bay for over a month and Wallis was later able to pass on useful information to the explorer Captain James Cook. Wallis narrowly beat French admiral and fellow explorer Louis-Antoine, Comte de Bougainville, to the islands, the latter describing in his 1771 book A Voyage Around the World an “earthly

英國海軍航海家森美華萊士是史上首人踏足大溪地。1767 年 六月他乘坐皇家海洋號停泊在馬塔韋海灣一個多月，他詳細的 航海紀錄給了後來成為著名探險家的庫克船長很大方便。華萊 士僅僅較同代的法國探險家路易斯安托萬海軍上將先到大溪 地幾年，安托萬於 1771 年發表《一本環遊地球的海航日誌》中 描述：「這是世界僅有的天堂，男女幸福無知地生活着，遠離 墮落的文明。」更口口聲聲說大溪地人是高尚的野蠻人。憑此 日誌，吸引很多對西方生活模式和思想感到失落的旅行家、藝 術家和哲學家蜂擁而，尋找浪漫靈感。

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大溪地仿似在地圖上想像出來的地方，是法屬波利尼西118個 島嶼中最大一個，佔了百分之七十人口，三分之二是土著波利 尼西亞人。試幻想，土著的祖先們從千里外扒著舷外支架獨木 舟時發現這個世外桃源，從此定居下來。島上儘管有着王國和 族群的深層文化，偏偏和洶湧闖進來的外國人，互相交織渲染 下成為夢幻世界；外來人出類拔萃，為本地人和遊客添加了深 刻烙印。

FOUNDER’S ADVENTURES | 創建者歷奇 Captain James Cook arrived in Tahiti in 1769, during his first global circumnavigation, to observe the transit of Venus across the sun, which occurs only every 243 years. It was an important observation that assisted in the calculation of longitude – something that would greatly facilitate global navigation. Cook’s voyages across the Pacific allowed him to map Polynesia in more detail than ever before and his contributions to geographical knowledge continued to inform scientists well into the 20th century.

Our next foreign incursion of note is by Fletcher Christian, who arrived in Tahiti in 1788 on board HMS Bounty, under its captain Lieutenant William Bligh. Their mission was to collect breadfruit plants to be taken to Jamaica and cultivated as a food source for the slaves there. The crew had to wait five months before the plants would be ready for removal and during this time they succumbed to the languid lifestyle of the residents. After departing Tahiti the next year, Christian led a group of 18 mutineers and cast Bligh and some his loyal followers adrift in a small boat. Christian returned to Tahiti to marry a princess and the mutineers, along with several other Tahitians, sailed the Bounty to Pitcairn island where they established a colony.

Another notable visitor to this idyllic archipelago was Robert Louis Stevenson, the Scottish novelist and travel writer, who arrived in the Marquesas Islands of French Polynesia in 1888. He describes his arrival in the first chapter of In the South Seas (1896): “The first experience can never be repeated.

The first love, the first sunrise, the first South Sea island, are memories apart and touched a virginity of sense…” 庫克船長1769年到大溪地，為了觀察243年才出現一 次的金星跨越太陽現象而開始環球航行。其觀察能 改進日後量度和計算經度，加速發展船運。船長這次 橫渡太平洋之旅，細緻繪畫了波利尼西亞地圖，貢獻 地理常識，影響深遠及至二十世紀的科學家。 1788 年，船長威廉布萊中尉駕駛皇家邦蒂號進駐 大溪地，本為採摘麵包果送回牙買加種植作為奴隸 的糧食。為了等待麵包果成熟，大家待了五個月之久。 此期間，土著充滿活力的生活態度徹底征服眾船員。 就在離開了大溪地翌年，船員之一克里斯蒂安夥同 十八名叛變者，驅趕布萊船長和他的效忠者到一首 小船，隨海漂流。克里斯蒂安和叛變者則返回大溪 地，娶了當地公主，乘坐騎劫回來的邦蒂號，到了皮 特凱恩群島成立殖民地。 蘇格蘭大文豪小說及旅遊作家羅伯特洛易斯史蒂 文森，於1888年到了法屬波利尼西亞馬克薩斯群 島。1896年出版的《在南海中》首章道：「第一經驗 永不能重複，第一次鍾情，第一個日出，第一個南海 島嶼，久遠憶記觸動了感官的童貞……」

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FOUNDER’S ADVENTURES | 創建者歷奇

It’s easy to imagine a similar emotion from the French artist Paul Gauguin, who first arrived in Tahiti in 1891. Intent on escaping European civilisation and “everything that is artificial and conventional”, Gauguin settled in a village and began producing his finest paintings. His 1892 masterpiece When will you Marry? sold for a record US$210 million in 2014, but his art was hardly appreciated in his lifetime. He died in French Polynesia in 1903, aged 54 and more or less in poverty. Apart from his influence on many 20th century artists and writers, Gauguin’s depictions of Tahitians continue to feed the fascination that westerners have with foreign cultures and the notion of a simple tropical lifestyle.

All of which brings us to our next foreign incursions and the seemingly never-ending legacy of the Bounty adventure. In 1920, the American writer and war hero James Norman Hall arrived in Tahiti with his friend and collaborator Charles Nordhoff. Together they wrote several successful adventure books, including Mutiny on the Bounty (1932). Hall died in 1951 in Tahiti and his grave site looks over Matavai Bay, where Captain Bligh first dropped anchor on the Bounty.

The artist Henri Matisse visited Tahiti in 1930, almost certainly following in the footsteps of Paul Gauguin.

Although he later claimed that he returned from the islands “absolutely empty-handed”, over time, his memories of Tahiti fermented and his fascination with traditional Tahitian fabrics gave rise to the look and 30

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technique of his later cut-outs. In the 1947 publication Jazz, a limited-edition art book containing prints of cut-paper collages, Matisse recalled his memories of Tahitian lagoons as “one of the seven wonders of the paradise of painters”. Jazz is considered the first great expression of the new cut-out technique and Matisse later admitted that the memories and enchantments of the sky and sea of Tahiti only returned to him 15 years later “in the form of obsessive images”.

1891年，法國後印象派大師高更率意逃離「一切守舊和人工 化」的歐洲文明而來到大溪地，能想像他如史蒂文森感到同樣 激盪。高更住在簡陋村落完成一張又一張驚世傑作，1892年作 品 《妳何時嫁人?》，2014年以二億一千萬美元賣出；可惜他 生時潦倒，54歲死時不名一文。高更影響了不少二十世紀的畫 家和作家，他賦於大溪地人濃烈色彩，讓無數西方人欣羡異地 文化和傾慕單純熱帶風情。 皇家邦蒂號的幽靈帶來了揮之不去的創作泉源。1920年美國作 家和大戰英雄何占姆士和他的朋友兼合作者羅威爾斯來到大 溪地，共同創作一系列暢銷的冒險遊記，包括1932年的《叛艦 喋血記》。何占姆士1951年於大溪地辭世，他的墓穴遠眺馬塔 韋海灣，正是布萊船長的邦蒂號曾經拋錨的地方。 畫家馬蒂斯追循高更軌蹟，1930年踏足大溪地。儘管他離開後 曾強調「空手而回」，但時間證明大溪地情愫一直在他的作品 中發酵。大溪地獨特布裁設計啟迪他的剪貼創作，特別是1947 年印刷的限量版拼貼藝術品《爵士》。馬蒂斯回憶大溪地的湖 泊是「畫家創作七大天堂泉源之一」，《爵士》更被後世公認為 新剪貼技巧首創作品。十五年後，馬蒂斯終於承認大溪地的天 空和海洋，烙印其腦海成為「戀戀不忘的形象」。

FOUNDER’S ADVENTURES | 創建者歷奇

development began on The Brando, a luxury eco-resort and research centre where US President Barack Obama wrote his memoirs. The resort espouses an opulent but simplistic experience as a retreat from the tensions of modern city life; exactly what attracted Brando.

The actor Marlon Brando arrived in Tahiti in 1961 to star as Fletcher Christian in the MGM movie Mutiny on the Bounty. He fell in love with both the location and his co-star, Tarita Teri’ipaia, the French Polynesian actress who played the role of Fletcher Christian’s princess and who became Brando’s third wife. Brando purchased the small islands that make up the Teti’aroa atoll, a traditional playground for Tahitian chiefs, and built a small village to live in and to entertain his friends, while also inviting scientists to study the ecology and archaeology of the area.

In his later life, he spent less time there, but his wife continued to operate the village as a modest hotel for more than 25 years. Following Brando’s death in 2004,

From Wallis to Obama, Tahiti’s image to the rest of the world has been fashioned by outsiders into that of a remote paradise, with a relaxed and sensual culture offering an idyllic return to nature as an alternative to the rigours of modern urban life. The reality is not far from this vision. Being part of France, and with tourism as the principal industry, Tahiti makes it easy for visitors to find what they have come to expect.

There’s no denying the beauty of the islands and the magical underwater environment as well as the natural Polynesian friendliness of the residents. Tahiti remains a place of the imagination that easily turns its seductive charms onto modern-day visitors just as it has done throughout history. 影帝馬龍白蘭度1961年來到大溪地，飾演美高梅電影《叛艦喋 血記》的弗萊切克里斯蒂安；戲假情真，馬龍白蘭度竟愛上大 溪地，也戀上電影女主角，有中國血統的波利尼西亞十九歲美 少女泰麗塔特里派亞，成為他的第三妻子。白蘭度買了一個傳 統用作大溪地酋長嬉戲的蒂蒂若瓦環礁小島，改建成小村莊 作自住和招呼親朋戚友度假之用，亦邀請科學家來考古研探 當地生態。 1972年影帝和公主離婚，少了逗留大溪地，公主則繼續經營島 上酒店超過二十五年，直到白蘭度2004年過世，才改建成白蘭 度度假酒店The Brando，亦成為環保研究中心，美國前總統 奧巴馬曾入住撰寫回憶錄。度假村簡樸設計，成為城市人退修 避靜好地方，難怪當年白蘭度對小島一見傾情。 由華萊士到奧巴馬，大溪地於世人印象都是外來人將時髦引進 荒遠天堂，讓摩登繁瑣的城市生涯，回歸詩情畫意閒適感性的 文化國度。此中有真意，作為法國屬土，以旅遊作為主要工業， 大溪地固然努力營造遊客期待的氛圍，迷人島嶼，摩幻海底， 波利尼西亞原住民自然友善；自古以來，大溪地風情，就像磁 石般吸引着紅塵旅人。 M Ī R A N D U S

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TRAVEL ADVISOR | 心之導航

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TRAVEL ADVISOR | 心之導航

Life in the Slow Lane 慢活人生 資深旅遊顧問徐艷芬覺得旅遊能改變人生步伐。 For Travel Advisor Lorna Tsui, travel is all about changing the pace of life.

Where did you last travel? 請問妳剛從哪裏歸來？

I last visited Shanghai and stayed at the amazing Bulgari Hotel, which just opened last year. I love the Bund area and the Bulgari is a great addition to this vibrant precinct; not only does the hotel’s rooftop have great views of the iconic skyline, but so do all the rooms. I am excited to send clients there as I think it will be a big hit. 我最近往上海，入住去年才在上海灘開 幕的寶格麗酒店，站在頂層固能飽覽黃 浦江景色，在客房也能觀賞海灣和城市 天際線，浪奔浪流，人見人愛，我樂意推 薦給客戶共享。

What kind of traveller would you describe yourself as? 請問妳是那種旅遊人？

I’m an easy traveller; for me travel is about rest and relaxation. I will make sure to do some exploration of the local culture, but I don’t like to pack my itinerary too much.

I prefer to take it all in and be present. 我是無牽掛的旅人，行程休閒輕鬆，喜 歡認識當地文化，一日遊三國從不是我 杯茶，七日「慢」遊一個國家還勉強可以。

What are your passions when you travel? 旅遊時妳有何興趣？

Getting to know and experience the local culture is one of the best parts of travel. There are so many places and ways of life and it’s cool to see how others live and how similar we all actually are. After building

in some time for rest and enjoying the hotel and its facilities, I will try to do some easy-going activities to get exposure to the interesting people in each destination. 認識風土民情乃旅遊最大樂趣之一，世 界之大，人心不同，生活面貌卻又有着 相近之處。享受過酒店環境和設施，休 閒一番後，我就往外走走，參與適意活 動，並與當地人結緣。

Why is working with a travel agent a better way to travel? 為何在旅行社工作能增進旅遊體驗？

We are constantly training and travelling so we can know destinations intimately. This is the sort of insight you can’t really find online, because everyone is so different. We take special care to get to know our clients, so that we can build the best holidays for them. We can also work within a budget so that clients can maximise their dollar. 我們日日受訓和時常旅行，需深入認識 各目的地，每處都有不同體驗，非在網 絡上輕易找到，親身了解每個地方特色， 方能仔細了解客戶期望和要求，為他們 度身訂行程，大家才覺物有所值。

What are five things we’ll find in your carry on? 甚麼是妳手提行李必備五寶？

I try to keep it light, so I can breeze through security. I always have the necessities: passport, money, phone, and something to keep me warm on those frigid flights. I also always keep a snack close by, you never know when hunger will strike!

手機、一件保溫衣抵抗飛機上寒流及零 食，因為我饞嘴。

If you could only travel to one more place in your lifetime, you’d be headed to… 若今生今世妳只能再去一個地方，會是 ⋯⋯

I’d go back to Maldives any day. It’s probably one of the most luxurious places on the planet and you have no excuse not to relax and take in the beautiful and serene sights while the ocean breeze tickles your skin. Just talking about it makes me wish I was there now. So many stunning luxury properties have opened up in the last few years, so I hope I can go back soon. 每日我都可以重返馬爾代夫，絕對是地 球上最豪華和迷人地方，令人毫無扺抗 放鬆下來，海水溫暖透肌膚，海風溫柔 撫臉龐。近年建了不少新酒店，恨不得 已身處馬爾代夫。

It’s happy hour in your favourite city, where are you headed? 妳喜歡在哪城市享受快樂時光呢 ?

Happy hour for me is when I have no cares in the world, so I’d be in Da Nang. Fusion Maia is all that I want in a hotel as it is set on a beautiful beach and, get this, unlimited spa treatments! Any hour can be happy hour when you have a masseuse on call. 無牽無掛就是我的「快樂時光」，要選 擇應是越南峴港，尤其入住可享用無限 水療服務的度假酒店 Fusion Maia，在 無敵海灘前有一位隨傳隨到的按摩師， 每一刻鐘都是快樂時光。

最重要簡單，方便過關。有護照、金錢、 M Ī R A N D U S

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DESTINATION | 目的地

From the Mountains to the Steppes 從山巒到草原 Drawn to mountain passes and near-endless steppes along the ancient Silk Road, travellers are once again discovering Kazakhstan, writes Nick Walton, who explores two of the nation’s cities, Almaty and Astana

中亞洲神隱國哈薩克斯坦，座落古絲綢之路上， 遨遊古都阿拉木圖和新首都阿斯塔 納，置身在 無盡山巒和無窮草原中。

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DESTINATION | 目的地

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DESTINATION | 目的地 With the sing-song pronouncement of prices, the cacophony of haggling, and the pounding of butcher’s blades, a visit to Almaty’s Green Bazaar, known locally as the Zelyony, is a chance to step back to the heyday of the great Silk Road, which once weaved commerce and culture through the fabric of Central Asia. Although the official market has its origins in the late 1800s, when a great ‘guest yard’ was established by local merchants, historians say trading has taken place here since the time when caravans first wound through the high passes of the Zailiyskiy Alatau mountains from the great deserts of Xinjiang and the lakelands of eastern Mongolia en route to all points west.

Kazakhstan is no stranger to visitors, both voluntary and otherwise. From the days of the Silk Road to Stalin’s forced relocations, Kazakhstan has offered welcome respite to people from across Central and East Asia, from ethnic Russians and Chinese, to Ukrainians, Uyghurs, Bulgars and Tatars, and Almaty’s diversity is best seen at the Green Bazaar, a fascinating food emporium at the heart of the city, where the vital ingredients of many regional dishes can be sourced direct from producers. 萬萬不能錯過阿拉木圖的綠色市集，當地人稱斯諾達爾 （Zelyony），叫賣聲、討價聲、歡謔聲、磨刀霍霍，像時光倒 流回到絲綢之路最鼎盛世代，商旅、文化穿梭交織成為中亞 細亞的軸心。市集雛形大扺自十九世紀初期形成，當地商人為 方便商旅，開始了龎大的驛站。歷史學者考據此地商業規模 始於駱駝行旅從新疆大沙漠往西行，穿越天山山脈西北部經 年積雪的伊犁阿拉套山前來；或從蒙古東部湖澤向西漫行，買 賣就開始在這個必經之地。今天更可以在綠色市集買到不同 文化族裔的主要食材。 這個中亞腹地，是中國詩仙李白出生地，也是俄國托洛斯基和 大文豪陀斯妥也夫斯基流徙地。不論是自願還是流放，由古絲 路到史太林勞徙年代，從中亞至東亞都有人來到哈薩克斯坦， 俄羅斯人、華人、鳥克蘭人、維吾爾人、保加爾人 ( 突厥 )、韃靼 人等等，都能感受當地暖意，漸漸適應異國環境扎根下來，當 我們往市集走一團，能找到中東南亞各類食材和美食！

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DESTINATION | 目的地

Almaty is a fascinating place. It is the largest city in Kazakhstan and home to most of the country’s 18 million inhabitants. This ancient hub has long been a gateway between east and west and today, with China’s bold new Belt & Road Initiative reshaping the fortunes of the region and Kazakhstan shrugging off much of its Soviet-era persona, there’s never been a better time to explore this once vital way station.

Surrounded by stout, Soviet-era apartment blocks and tree-lined boulevards (Almaty is one of the greenest cities in the world), the Bazaar has the architectural ambiance of a Communist-era public swimming pool, with green-hued tiles and beams of bright afternoon sunshine reaching from high skylights to concrete floors polished with the passing of generations of hungry shoppers.

阿拉木圖是哈薩克斯坦最大和最令人心醉的城市和古都，全 國一千八百萬人口大多聚居於此。從前如是，現在仍是走西通 東的大門重鎮；近年，阿拉木圖刻意擺脫蘇聯年代風貌，配合 中國一帶一路新風采，今天正是遊歷這個滿載滄桑的驛站最 佳時間。 阿拉木圖是世界上最綠化城市之一，大道兩旁古木參天，蘇 維埃年代寬大建築物棋盤式均勻分佈。在共產主義時期建成 的公眾游泳池，現改為兩層高的綠色市集，翠瓦高瓴，午後陽 光滿瀉，世世代代無數的饕餮在石板地上來來回回。 綠色市集內百家賣百貨，有些已經三代經營，流金歲月，只是 人面換了。波斯藏紅花香料、也門海棗、中國白米一應俱全； 少不了哈薩克人主食馬肉，新鮮土耳其皮囊麵包、阿富汗糖漬 乾菓、韓國辛辣泡菜、誘人的裏海魚子醬、大吉嶺豐滿柿子和 樹蕃茄，千萬不要忘掉蜚聲國際熱騰騰的牛肉餡餅，正是游 牧民族世代相傳的美食。

The stallholders’ wares trace a spider’s web of trade that reaches from the saffron fields of Persia to the date plantations of Yemen and the rice paddies of eastern China. There are dinner plate-sized horse steaks (a Kazakh staple), fresh Turkish pide bread and candied nuts from Afghanistan, as well as vibrant kimchi, and mounds of Caspian caviar; plump persimmons and tamarillos from Darjeeling, and piping hot cheburek, parcels of pastry stuffed with beef that proved the perfect snack for ever-moving nomads. Some stalls are run by three generations of the same family, giving a timelessness to a destination that’s never been more ready to change.

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DESTINATION | 目的地

Despite the flow of new money into Kazakhstan, or perhaps because of it, preserving the region’s traditional culture is in vogue and in a valley below the resort, Kazakhstan’s rich nomadic-hunting culture is maintained at Sunkar Falcon Centre, where Pavel Pfander, a KazakhGerman falcon trainer, thrills visitors with the hunting displays of his falcons, griffon vultures and massive golden eagles, who take turns to swoop from the heavens, their feathers dusting the heads of the crowd as they pass.

Much of Kazakhstan’s new-found fame is thanks to its national carrier, the Skytrax four-star Air Astana, which won almost every award a boutique carrier can as it rapidly extended its network beyond Central Asia since its inception in 2001.

I emerge from the markets into the sunshine of mid-summer in the mountains and make my way through Panfilov Park. At its centre is the Tsaristera Ascension Cathedral, crafted from Tian Shan spruces, where stooped babushkas, bundled in layers of brightly coloured fabric despite the warmth, and smartphone-toting teens in jeans and T-shirts pray before a magnificent golden iconostasis painted by Nikolai Khludov. The second tallest wooden structure in the world, the cathedral has stood resolute against Kazakhstan’s harsh winters, scorching summers and turbulent history, and remains a beacon for the faithful of a city wreathed by jagged mountain ranges and the emptiness of the Taukum Desert.

“There’s something comforting about Almaty and its ability to change and yet remain the same,” says Miras, a sociology graduate I meet walking Panfilov’s leafy walkways. “We all see Kazakhstan changing, the new buildings, the new wealth, but it’s important to remember where we come from, to not lose our identity in the face of prosperity.” He thrusts a brand-new iPhone at me and poses for a photo with his smiling fiancée, the ancient egg yolk cathedral aglow in the morning sunshine beyond.

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從綠色市集出來，夏午陽光普照，全球第二高木 製建築物東正教大教堂矗立在潘洛夫公園中央， 以天山雲杉建成全木教堂，釘子也是木製的，高 56 米，畫家尼古拉克魯多繪製金色聖幛澄黃奪 目，侍立的巴布卡娃娃裏裏外外包裹著色彩繽 紛衣料。年輕人穿 T 恤牛仔褲，手握智能電話， 流連公園。哈薩克斯坦夏季炙熱，冬季酷寒，歷 史動蕩，大教堂睨然獨立，靜聽群山嶇嶁，塔烏 庫姆沙漠曠野的呼喚。 在潘洛夫公園林蔭步道偶遇社會學系畢業生米 羅斯，他說：「阿拉木圖讓人感到慰藉是，它既 善變又不忘初心。哈薩克斯坦日日在變，新建築、 新財富；但繁華背後，我們不忘本，不忘身份認 同。」話口未完，他敏捷地拿出最新款 iPhone， 跟我和他含笑的未婚妻一起自拍，背景正是金 光輝煌大教堂。 近年流行保育當地傳統文化，財源滾滾。馴鷹師 帕維爾德生是哈薩克斯坦和德國混血兒，在滑 雪場下一個山谷開設桑卡爾獵鷹農場，承傳哈薩 克斯坦悠久遊牧狩獵文化。獵鷹、獅鷲和巨大兇 猛的金鷹分別從天外啣回獵物，在遊客頭頂上 展翅凌空習習生風，嘆為觀止。 哈薩克斯坦愈來愈受到全球注目，多少有賴於 2001 年才成立的國家航空阿斯塔納航空，被英 國航空服務調查機構 Skytrax 評為四星級，幾 乎囊括了小型航空所有獎項，航線迅速發展飛越 中亞版圖。

DESTINATION | 目的地 For a better perspective on Kazakhstan’s new fortunes, I head into the Zaiilisky Alatau mountains the next morning, bound for the Shymbulak ski resort. The modern cable car that climbs the peaks soars over the top of the Medeu, an iconic outdoor speed-skating and bandy rink first built in 1949 and revitalised for Kazakhstan’s hosting of the 2011 Asian Winter Games. Two-thirds of the way up the craggy peaks, Shymbulak could be in the Italian Alps or on the flanks of Canada’s most popular runs. There are chic, international restaurants with fusion menus and clutches of well-heeled locals and tourists basking in the sun at al fresco tables, enjoying views that reach far down to the new skyscrapers of Almaty.

It’s with Air Astana that I travel to see the other side of Kazakhstan. Under siege by the seemingly endless steppes of central Kazakhstan, Astana was until 1998 a sleepy rural town called Aqmola, on the banks of the Ishim River. A former garrison for the Siberian Cossacks, Aqmola was the centre of many ambitious Soviet-era land reforms.

Today, it’s the country’s bold new capital, a billiard table-flat metropolis envisioned

by Kazakhstan’s president Nursultan

Nazarbayev, punctuated by fascinating, and often outlandish architecture from the who’s who of the design world.

Mirage-like, Astana shimmers with new commercial towers and luxurious apartment blocks, and is criss-crossed with wide, proud boulevards planned

by Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa.

Between these six-lane avenues are world-class arts institutions like the National Museum of Kazakhstan and the Manfredi Nicoletti-designed Central Concert Hall, the Khazret Sultan Mosque (the second-largest mosque in Central Asia), and the Norman Foster-designed pyramid-shaped Palace of Peace and Reconciliation, where the Syria peace talks are presently underway. Foster also designed the eye-catching, yurt-shaped Khan Shatyr Entertainment Centre, a mall with its own monorail and members-only indoor beach. 為了深度探索哈薩克斯坦新景況，我翌日往伊犁 阿拉套山的瓊布拉克滑雪場進發。現代化的懸吊 纜車俯瞰麥迪奧高山滑雪場，戶外速度滑冰賽道 和樂隊溜冰場初建於 1949 年，因為哈薩克斯坦 要主辦 2011 年亞洲冬季運動會而大肆翻修。在 嶙峋半山之上，瓊布拉克可以媲美意大利眾多雪 山或加拿大最受歡迎的滑道。餐廳既時髦又國際 化，菜式東西合璧，穿戴時尚的本地人和遊客，趁 着和煦陽光，坐在露天茶座，遙看阿拉木圖高樓 大廈。 飛越哈薩克斯坦中部綿延不絕的草原，飛機降落 在新首都阿斯塔納。1998 年前，這個座落伊希姆 河畔的樸素小城原名阿克莫拉，是前西伯利亞哥 薩克人駐兵地，也是蘇埃拉年代土改試驗的據 點。自 1991 年立國以來，曾五連任的長壽總統 納扎爾巴耶夫勇於創新，令新都寬敞平濶，街道 井井有條，處處高塔大樓，搜羅全世界最出色的 建築師來築成一個滿溢異國風情的城市。 日籍建築師黑川紀章在新都設計的六行行車線 康莊大道，兩旁新穎商業大樓和豪華住宅鱗次 櫛比，海市蜃樓般高聳入雲。有世界級的哈薩 克斯坦國家博物館、意大利設計師 Manfredi Nicoletti 設計的中央音樂廳、顏色清雅優美的 中亞第二大哈茲拉特蘇丹清真寺、霍朗明爵士 (Norman Foster) 設計金字塔式和平文化宮，有 135 隻鴿子雕在玻璃穹頂，代表城中居住的民族 數目，我到訪時剛進行敘利亞和解會議，而同是 霍朗明爵士設計的圓頂透明大汗帳篷娛樂中心， 惹人觸目，不單有會員專屬室內沙灘，更有特設 單軌火車代步。 M Ī R A N D U S

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DESTINATION | 目的地

Despite its modern, eye-catching architecture, Astana has retained its traditional Kazakh hospitality and everywhere you go in the capital, from the new Mega Silk Way luxury mall to chic al fresco restaurants like Ali Baba, where waitresses dress in traditional costume and millennials dine on horse carpaccio, people are proud and excited that visitors have come to experience Kazakhstan for themselves. 新首都阿斯塔納雖然趨騖現代化，卻無損哈薩克人 傳統好客和友善態度，令人賓至如歸，就算到極商業 化地區，如機場附近號稱全國最大的豪華購物商場， 露天餐廳如阿里巴巴，侍應都穿上傳統服飾滿載笑 容四圍走，身旁千禧一代正品嚐最愛的生馬肉片。

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DESTINATION | 目的地

An easy walk away, down blissfully-empty sidewalks, Kazakhs and tourists alike line up to ride the elevator to the viewing platform inside the Bayterek, a gilded observation tower themed on the mythological Tree of Life, where they can place their hands in the golden imprint left by former President Nazarbayev and make a wish. From this lofty view, it’s easy to spy the city growing, from the new Ritz Carlton and St Regis hotels to the 500,000sqm US$1.6 billion Abu Dhabi Plaza, home to chic apartments and even more luxury shopping.

“There’s no doubt that Borat put us on the map,” says Aldiyar, a volunteer I meet outside the gilded tower, referring to Sacha Baron Cohen’s controversial comedy about a Kazakh journalist’s first visit to the US. “Now we have our Sacha Baron Cohen’s foot in the door and hopefully people will want to come and see the real Kazakhstan. After all, we’ve been welcoming people for centuries.” 悠閒踏步寬敞綠化大道，遊客和哈薩克人守秩序排隊登上金光閃閃高 105 米的巴伊傑列克觀景塔，象徵生命之樹，可把手掌放在前任總統納 扎爾巴耶夫金色手印上許願。塔頂凌雲，下面城市不斷成長，簇新的麗 思卡爾頓酒店、瑞吉酒店，與及耗資 16 億美元和佔地 500,000 平方 米的阿布達比廣塲，又將有不少當代建築物和豪華商場面世。 在金色生命之樹外遇上義工阿爾迪亞，他說：「沒錯，電影《波叔出城》 讓哈薩克斯坦返回世界地圖，我希望大家認識真實的哈薩克斯坦，感受 待客如尊的傳統文化。」電影《波叔出城》是出身劍橋大學的薩夏拜倫 阿恩於 2006 年自編自演的黑色喜劇，描述一名哈薩克斯坦名記者博拉 特到美國取經的心路歷程。 M Ī R A N D U S

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THE INSPIRATOR | 鼓舞人心

Bill It & They Will Come 慕 名而來 盡 興而 歸

Visionary designer Bill Bensley talks with Nick Walton about his passion for hotels, his favourite Bangkok haunts and the death of luxury as we know it. 被《時代雜誌》譽為「異國風情度假村之王」的當紅建築師比爾本斯利（Bill Bensley），曾經在香港工作和居住，剛與 Nick Walton 詳談酒店設計、何謂 當今豪華酒店和曼谷有何令他着迷潮點。 What first drew you to design? 請問你如何投身設計界？

For as long as I can remember I have been drawing and building models based on my imagination.... that comes easy to me. 說來話長，其實一直以來我都是憑藉想 像來繪製和設計，算是得心應手。

How has your travels inspired your design? 請問旅遊怎增進設計靈感？

Travel inspires my designs sometimes in the strangest ways.

Last year, travelling through Estonia, the seemingly medieval craftsman signs hanging in front of shops with no words, no neon, just a clear graphic indication of what is sold inside was a life changer, and has filtered into every one of my projects since. I live by the motto “buy first, think later” and when I travel nothing is more fun then to fill up a container or 42

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two of gorgeous antiques using someone else’s money! This gregarious shopping addiction has often changed the way I think about hotel design. For example, some years ago I was shopping the favourite back alley hovels in Paris and came across a single lady’s hat. It was a rattan traditional Vietnamese hat but was covered with a French 1920s red polka dotted fabric - clearly a melding of two fashion schools. This was a clear catalyst for the entire Hotel de la Coupole in Sapa north Vietnam that opened last month. 旅遊很多時給予我怪異靈感。如去年 在愛沙尼亞漫遊，看到中古世紀工匠懸 掛舖前的純圖象招牌，沒有文字也沒有 霓虹燈，卻一看就知店裏售賣何貨式， 這個偶遇啟發了我，此後設計項目都應 滲入此元素。我的人生座右銘是「買先 想後」，每次旅行最大的喜樂就是用賺 回來的錢買滿幾大箱古董，這種瘋狂購 物慾自然影響酒店設計概念。幾年前當 我在巴黎誘人的後街蹓躂時，瞥見一頂 藤織的越南傳統女帽，綴上 1920 年代

法國紅色波點衣料，中西合璧化平凡為 神奇，從而催生剛在越南北部沙壩開張 的 Hôtel de la Coupole - MGaller y

by Sofitel 的整體設計意念。

When did you first know you wanted to design hotels? 何時知道自己與酒店設計結下不了緣？

Well I knew that I did not want to plant bushes in the parking lot gardens for McDonalds in Southern California, so upon graduation from Harvard with degrees under my belt I raced to Southeast Asia not really knowing what to expect. I got a job at a landscape architecture firm the very day I arrived and the following week I was thrown onto a project site that was the glorious Bali Hyatt in Sanur, Bali. I was 24 years old, it was 1984, and I was smitten. 哈佛畢業時，就知道不願意困在南加州 為麥當勞店鋪為停車坪設計花草樹叢； 二話不說隻身跑到東南亞，到埗翌日就 找到園林建築工作，一個星期後加入負

THE INSPIRATOR | 鼓舞人心 責設計美侖美奐的印尼峇里島凱悅酒 店的團隊。時為 1984，剛好行年廿四， 從此一生著迷。

Tell us about your Bensley Collection properties in Siem Reap and the Cambodian jungle. 請娓談一下柬埔寨叢林和你在暹粒的自 家品牌酒店系列？

Shinta Mani Angkor-Bensley Collection in Siem Reap opened in December 2017 and is a collection of ten exquisite twostorey pool villas, each with a nine-metre private plunge pool, outdoor shower and bathtub, and a fabulous rooftop lounge where guests can sleep under the stars if they so desire. The property is adjacent to the existing Shinta Mani hotels so guests can easily access the restaurants, spa and bar, and is within close proximity to UNESCO-listed Angkor Wat. Shinta Mani Wild-Bensley Collection opened in December 2018 and is deep in the wilderness of South Cardamom National Park in the south of Cambodia. It has 15 luxurious custom-designed tents in a private sanctuary and offers a rather unique (and optional) arrival experience via a 350-metre zipline over the river and waterfalls, although guests can also arrive by road or helicopter.

The activities at the camp are designed around nature and the environment; guests can explore the wild estuarine ecosystem by custom Bensley-designed expedition boat complete with kayaks, or join our anti-poaching rangers and researchers as they check camera points and study the wild forest and its inhabitants.

Dining at Wild lives up to the resort’s name and includes wild edible plants sustainably foraged daily from the forest, as well as the best quality meat and seafood available. 在暹粒有四間同名聖塔瑪尼森塔瑪尼酒 店，而我自家品牌「聖塔瑪尼吳哥—本斯

利典藏館」則啟業於 2017 年十二月，距 離聯合國教科文組織世界遺產中心的吳 哥窟只在數箭之遙。兩層高池畔別墅共 有十間套房，各有九米長泳池、室外淋 灑和浴缸設施。興之所至，客人更可躺卧 在屋頂陽台上仰觀星象。鄰近的森塔瑪 尼酒店可提供餐飲、水療、酒吧等服務。 另一間「聖塔瑪尼野外—本斯利典藏 館」於 2018 年十二月才開幕，位於柬 埔寨南部荳蔻山脈國家公園以南，在茂 密森林的私家保育區設立十五個獨特 豪華帳篷，除以陸路或乘直昇機前來， 客人想刺激點，可選擇用長 350 米鋼纜 凌空飛越河流和瀑布超然而至。野外度 假村依自然環境天籟而建，乘坐我設計 的遊艇和獨木舟，探索保育河流系統和 了解防止非法狩獵團隊工作，大家能從 隱蔽鏡頭等特別裝置觀賞山水靜態和 動物生態。員工每天採摘野生植物供餐 廳使用，配上本地海鮮，佳餚崇尚自然。

You’ve designed resorts, hotels and even palaces and have also been quoted as saying that “luxury is dead” - what do you mean by that and how do you think your own design style has evolved? 全世界都知道你負責設計酒店、度假村 甚至皇宮，卻口中常掛着「奢華已死」， 甚麼意思？你又如何增進設計概念呢？

Luxury is dead in that the most affluent of travellers have already experienced the fancy name brands, the highest thread count for bed sheets and a lobby full of flowers changed twice daily. They are looking for experiences that their neighbours have not even heard about yet. They are looking for bragging rights. 「奢華已死」——最豪闊的旅人都擁有 過萬紫千紅極品名牌，享受過最高針線 密度的床單被褥，見過酒店大堂每天更 換兩次的姹紫嫣紅鮮花，但他們現在追 尋是前所未有和獨特創新的旅遊體驗， 能與同儕間娓談間取得話語權。

You currently live in Bangkok; what’s one we shouldn’t miss when we visit the City of Angels? 當下你住在天使之城曼谷，那裏是必遊 之地？

Jatuchak, as there is something always eye-catching there. Last week we bought a 1920s Danish horse drawn carriage, in great working order, for a song (without horse). Then go to Pak Klong Talad, the flower market, where the best and freshest flowers arrive by hand cart at night. At four dozen roses for five bucks, anyone can afford to be the romantic! 恰圖恰（Jatuchak）周末市集肯定不應 走漏眼。上星期我在市集買了一輛性能 良好 1920 年代的丹麥馬拉車，當然馬 匹欠奉，卻任你落地還價。更不要錯過 帕空花卉市場（Pak Klong Talad），最 新鮮漂亮的花束每天午夜用手推車送 來，五十泰銖有四打玫瑰，試問誰不可 以浪漫？

It’s happy hour in your favourite city; where are we and where are we headed? 處身你最喜愛的城鎮布吉，當下該往那 裏去呢？

Ka Jok See in Phuket Town is hands down the best bar in the world. Inevitably I end up dancing on top of the tables jumping from one to the next, and never leave before midnight. 布吉的 Ka Jok See 是世界上最好風 情的酒吧，每次我都瘋癲得在枱上跳來 跳去，絕不會在午夜前離開，只可惜， 她凌晨兩點鐘便打烊。

What are five things you can’t travel without? 請問你旅遊必備五寶是甚麼？

My sketch pad and a huge bundle of pencils; running shoes and shorts; my Mongolian cashmere sweater in grey as that goes with everything; a paperback; and my trusty backpack with 45 patches representing the last 45 countries that I have visited over the last 10 years. 素描簿和一大束鉛筆、跑鞋短褲、灰色 蒙古羊絨背心方便配襯穿著、平裝書、 縫了四十五個印章的背囊，代表我過去 十年跑過的四十五個國家。

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CAPE OF GOOD LIVING

好望角風情

South Africa’s southern most city is an eclectic and fascinating landscape of traditions, cultures and influences. By Nick Walton

開普敦，又稱角城，在南非最南端，地貌變幻多端，蘊含傳統文化和 外來薰習相容並蓄的現代城市。 9am

Kick off your stay at the city’s coolest new boutique hideaway. Towering above Cape Town’s picturesque Victoria & Albert waterfront, The Silo is housed within a former grain elevator that was once the tallest building in subSaharan Africa. Reimagined by London’s Heatherwick Studio, The Silo boasts just 28 individually-designed and decorated guest rooms, including a spectacular penthouse with ocean views.

10am

Your first stop should be downstairs, at the stunning new Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (MOCAA), a modern art museum designed to rival the likes of the Tate Modern in London and MoMA in New York. The new museum boasts 9,500sqm of exhibition space spread across nine floors, with 100 galleries carved from the former silo structure. Be sure to check out the rooftop sculpture garden.

早上九時

早上十時

從矗立於風光如畫的維多利亞及阿爾拔海濱區 的最潮最新旅館 The Silo 出行。酒店由昔日非 洲南撒哈拉地區最高的建築物改建而成，倫敦西 斯維克建築設計廊別具匠心，將舊榖倉升降槽 變成 28 間各具特色和裝飾的客房，站在閣樓更 可一覽大西洋無敵海景。

首站理所當然下樓踏足由穀倉改建成的非洲塞 茨當代藝術博物館（MOCAA），佔地 9,500 平方米，橫跨九層，展室逾百，堪與倫敦泰特現 代美術館和紐約現代藝術博物館分庭抗禮。博 物館開闊宏大，千萬不要錯過位於天臺的雕像 花園。

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12.30pm

Stay on the waterfront and make a beeline for one of the city’s hottest new spots, La Parada. Dedicated to inventive tapas and Spanish wines, highlights of the menu include the tuna tacos with rainbow mango salsa; grilled calamari with chimichurri; local mussels with saffron cream; and Bikini Toasties with truffle aioli.

下午十二時三十分 在海濱溜躂一回，可從捷徑走到人氣鼎盛的新 近食館 La Parada，專擅創意小菜和西班牙佳 釀，特式菜包括吞拿魚餅配彩虹芒果汁、烤魷魚 配香辣青醬、南非青口蘸藏紅花忌廉、還有小多 士加松露蒜泥蛋黃醬。

1.30pm

Tap into the city’s vibrant art movement with a street art tour of Woodstock, one of the city’s most eclectic precincts. Township Art Tours offer morning and afternoon departures that explore this fascinating neighbourhood, with chances to meet local artists and to see their bold and imaginative works.

下午一時三十分 午膳後可輕鬆流連讓人驚喜的胡士托區藝術街， 可參加藝墟遊導覽團，上午或下午皆可，有機會 遇到當地藝術工作者和找尋他們別出心裁大膽 藝術品。

4pm

Make for one of the country’s most famous hotels, Belmond’s Mount Nelson Hotel, for arguably Africa’s best high tea. Set in the hotel’s enchanting lounge, and accompanied by live piano music, this unique afternoon tea includes an indulgent feast of locally-inspired treats matched with a signature tea blend of Darjeeling, Kenya, Assam, Keemun, Yunnan, Ceylon and rose petals from the hotel’s gardens.

下午四時 又到下午茶，首選貝爾蒙德納爾遜山酒店 （Belmond ’s Mount Nelson Hotel）。大廳典 雅優閑，鋼琴手琴音耳悠揚。開普敦小食美味可 口，酒店獨特混合紅茶也滋味醇厚，集大吉嶺、 肯雅、印度阿薩、祈紅、滇紅、錫蘭和從酒店花園 摘下的玫瑰花而成。

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5.30pm

Time to walk off that indulgence, with a trip up iconic Table Mountain. The Aerial Cableway is the best way to reach the summit – simply take the free shuttle from Lower Tafelberg Road to the cableway’s base before the exhilarating ride 1km up the rocky mountain’s flank.

The views, especially at sunset, are nothing short of spectacular.

下午五時三十分 一番懷舊後，又到舒展筋骨攀登南非地標桌山好 時候。最簡捷是從 Lower Tafelberg 大路乘免 費穿梭巴士抵達空中纜車站，購票轉乘吊車，直 上桌山側翼雖只一公里，沿途風光綺旎；若然在 黃昏時段登山，金光璨爛，大西洋和印度洋互相 擁抱，人生何似。

7pm

Make for one of Cape Town’s sexiest new spots, Tjing Tjing, a seductive cocktail bar with four unique spaces – although we recommend the rooftop lounge. Here you should try the signature gin and tonics, which are laced with the likes of honey, rooibos and rose petal, or a locallybrewed craft beer like the Devil’s Peak First Light.

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A DAY IN | 一日精華遊

晚上七時 開普敦情色新景點 Tjing Tjing，雖然我推介天 臺酒廊，另外四間誘人雞尾酒吧房也要一看。 特色雞尾酒何其多，如混合蜜糖、博士茶或玫 瑰花瓣弄成的金湯力，或者當地著名手工啤酒 Devil ’s Peak First Light。

9pm

Delve into the local foodscape at new sensation Upper Bloem, which celebrates the cuisine of chef Andre Hill’s home suburb, Bo Kaap. All the colours and flavours of the Rainbow Nation fuse in an enticing dinner menu that includes the likes of ostrich ‘bunny chow’ dumplings with buffalo fromage blanc; Cape Malay fish curry with pickled cucumber; and Frankie Fenner Karoo lamb kebabs with quail eggs and hay-smoked tomato smoor.

10am (the next day)

Time to indulge in South Africa’s rich winemaking tradition with a visit to Groot Constantia Estate, on the outskirts of Cape Town. The winery was established in the 1600s by Simon van der Stel, former Governor of Cape of Good Hope, and today guests can explore the original Cape Dutch manor house, enjoy a wine tasting in the Cloete Cellar, and enjoy one of the winery’s acclaimed brut rosé wines with a picnic on the estate’s manicured lawns.

早上十時（翌日） 一宿無話，驅車到城郊的酒莊 Groot Constantia Estate，沉醉於南非酒香，體驗悠久釀酒傳統。 1685 年，首位開普敦荷蘭裔總督西門維德特創立 酒莊，遊人今天閒適在昔日總督官邸和建於十七 世紀的酒窖品酒；大白天可在如茵草地上野餐， 享受酒莊最負盛名的玫瑰紅酒，消此夏日長。

晚上九時 尋找本土美食，不能錯過上布隆（Upper Bloem）的深宵食堂，由名廚 Andre Hill 主理其 家鄉波卡普（Bo Kaap）名菜。南非又名彩虹之 國，多民族匯聚，菜色融匯色香味，看餐牌亦令人 垂涎三尺，如鴕鳥多士吐司盒子配水牛白奶酩、 開普馬來咖喱魚伴醃黃瓜、來自肉店 Frankie Fenner 的烤卡魯羊肉配鵪鶉蛋和草蕃茄醬。 M Ī R A N D U S

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TRAIN JOURNEY | 火車傲遊

The World’s Most Luxurious Rail Journeys 世界最 豪 華火車旅程

From the Peruvian Andes to the deserts of Rajasthan and the peaks of the Scottish Highlands, luxury trains continue to offer lovers of slow travel a refined and timeless way to delve into the world’s most beautiful locales, discovers Nick Walton.

無論從秘魯安第斯山脈到印度拉賈斯坦邦大沙漠與及蘇格蘭高原，置身豪華 列車悠悠穿越時空，山奇水秀，風土人情，歷歷難忘。撰文：Nick Walton

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TRAIN JOURNEY | 火車傲遊

Belmond Andean Explorer

貝爾 蒙 德安第 斯探索號

Explore some of South America’s most dramatic landscapes with the continent’s first luxury sleeper train, the Belmond Andean Explorer. Catering to just 48 guests in sumptuous en-suite cabins, the train travels along one of the highest rail routes on earth, traversing the Peruvian Andes from Cusco to Lake Titicaca and Arequipa on four one or twonight journeys. Along the way travellers will take in breathtaking scenery amidst interiors by Inge Moore of The Gallery HBA that take their inspiration from Peru’s handwoven textile culture, with touches of alpaca wool and Andean slate. 置身世界上最高鐵路線之一，乘坐南美州首列豪華臥車貝爾 蒙德安第斯探索號（Belmond Andean Explorer），有一晚 或二晚行程供選擇，由庫斯科（Cusco）到的的喀喀湖（Lake Titicaca）再到阿雷基帕（Arequipa），蜿蜒曲折樂遊安第斯 高山深谷。豪華套房列車只載 48 位貴賓，車廂由倫敦金匙獎 設計師 Inge Moore 負責 ，參考秘魯傳統手紡文化，採用羊 駝毛和安地斯灰板石設計而成，充滿溫馨暖意。

Twilight Express Mizukaze 黃昏 特快瑞風號 Two new additions to Japan’s rail network have reignited Asia’s love of train travel. The Twilight Express Mizukaze (pictured) departs Kyoto, Osaka and Shimonoseki stations to explore unspoiled and rarely visited western Japan, with visits to Matsue, Izumo and Miyajima, and opportunities to take in the natural beauty of the Sea of Japan, Mt. Daisen, and the Seto Inland Sea islands. With Art Deco lines and the amenities of a five-star hotel, the train caters to just 30 passengers, who are accommodated in six sleeper carriages and sated with the authentic washoku cuisine of acclaimed chefs Yoshihiro Murata and Hajime Yoneda. 日本新增兩道美侖美奐火車旅程，重燃亞洲火車迷興緻。黃 昏特快瑞風號（Twilight Express Mizukaze）帶你深入純天 真未鑿的西日本，分別從京都、大阪、下關站啟程，途經松江、 出雲、宮島、日本海、鳥取縣大山、瀨戶內海等勝地。特快瑞風 號只有六個臥卡，款待最多三十位旅客，舒適度更勝五星級 酒店，更由名厨村田吉宏和米田肇主理已列入聯合國教科文 組織無形文化遺產的日本傳統「和食」（washoku）。

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TRAIN JOURNEY | 火車傲遊

The Ghan 甘號火車

Australia’s most famous rail journey, The Ghan runs between Adelaide and Darwin, through the country’s dramatic Red Centre. The 2,979km three-day itinerary exposes travellers to a true cross section of Aussie landscapes, from the lush Barossa Valley to the burntorange beauty of the Flinders Ranges.

The Ghan’s all-inclusive Platinum Service backs up the captivating scenery with plenty of luxurious touches, including spacious cabins that convert into double

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bedrooms featuring full-size en suites; leisurely in-cabin breakfasts, and access to a dedicated lounge and restaurant. 澳洲最令人陶醉的鐵路遊，莫過於乘坐甘號火車 （The Ghan）從南部阿德萊德穿過紅土中心到 北嶺地達爾文，全長 2,979 公里，三日行程由葱 葱鬱鬱的著名釀酒區巴羅莎谷變成赭石色莽莽 蒼蒼的弗林德斯山脈。甘號火車鉑金車廂提供一 應俱全服務，套房寬敞可設雙人床，懶洋洋地享 受早餐，亦可以出入專門用餐和閒適車卡。

TRAIN JOURNEY | 火車傲遊

Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian Express 西伯利亞 列車金鷹 號

The most luxurious way to see the most famous train route in the world, the Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian Express features 12 en suite sleeper cars in three categories, including regal Imperial Suites that come complete with double beds and butler service. Sip champagne as you depart Moscow’s Kazansky Station bound for Vladivostok, 9,288km to the east, on a 15-day itinerary that winds its way through Kazan and Novosibirsk; along the banks of Baikal, the world’s largest freshwater lake; and across the Siberian steppes, a landscape best enjoyed from the Golden Eagle’s two regal restaurant cars, where authentic Russian cuisine is complemented

by international wines and, of course, plenty of locally-sourced vodka. 一生何求？要數世界上最著名鐵路，西伯利亞 列車金鷹號（Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian Express）必列入其中，金鷹號只有三個級別共 12間套房，包括尊貴皇家帝國包廂（Imperial Suites），設雙人床和管家服務。在車上喝着香 檳，從莫斯科喀山站鳴笛出發往東行，橫渡新西 伯利亞、世界最深最大的貝加爾淡水湖、西伯利 亞草原，終站於海參崴，全程十五日遊走9,288 公里。列車設有二個皇家氣派餐廳，享用俄羅斯 美食，品嚐世界名酒，神馳湖光山色，人生何似； 當然少不了沿途各地醅釀獨特伏特加酒，小心酒 不醉人人自醉。

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TRAIN JOURNEY | 火車傲遊

Belmond Royal Scotsman 貝爾 蒙 德 皇家蘇格蘭號

Belmond Grand Hibernian 貝爾 蒙 德愛 爾 蘭 藝 術號

The majestic landscapes of Ireland come to life during a journey on the Belmond Grand Hibernian (pictured), the first luxury overnight train to grace the Emerald Isle’s rails in a generation.

With a distinctly contemporary take on Dublin’s iconic Georgian architecture, the train’s 20 sumptuous cabins cater to just 40 guests, who enjoy ever-changing vistas during two to six-night journeys from Dublin to the likes of Cork, Galway, and Blarney Castle. Each sumptuous private cabin features a writing desk for those poetic inspirations, en suite facilities, and large picture windows, while two elegant dining cars serve a contemporary take on Irish cuisine, laced with produce sourced during the journey. 歐洲久久未見新豪華火車旅程，美譽為「翡翠島」 的愛爾蘭正好填補空缺。貝爾蒙德藝術號豪華 臥車（Belmond Grand Hibernian）於現代感 濃厚的都柏林啟程，往南駛至綠得醉人的科克、 高威、布拉尼城堡等地，旅程由二至六晚不等。 從喬治亞式建築，看到波濤洶湧的大西洋和千 姿萬態怪石斷崖。全車只有 20 個精裝套房臥廂 及款待 40 位客人，名畫點綴臥廂，書桌召喚繆司， 更有兩個雅緻餐廳，沿途搜羅當地食材，炮製愛 爾蘭當代美食。

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The Belmond Royal Scotsman is as intimate a train journey as you can find, catering to just 36 lucky souls on a range of itineraries that explore the length and breadth of Scotland. Guests can view the passing lochs and towering peaks from the comfort of their private, wood-lined cabin or from the popular Edwardianstyled observation car. For dinner, gourmet meals are served in a candlelit dining carriage, before guests come together for whisky and story-telling.

Alternate formal nights are a chance to dress up and celebrate and with the train stabled at night, guests are guaranteed a good night’s rest. Be sure to leave time to visit the train’s intimate spa carriage. 貝爾蒙德皇家蘇格蘭號（Belmond Royal Scotsman）為 36 位旅客帶來貼心旅程，無論從 你高貴木雕的私人廂房，或者最受歡迎愛德華 式設計的觀景車卡，都可以縱橫飽覽蘇格蘭高原 靜臥湖泊，高低起伏仰止山巒。車上有 60 款威 士忌免費任君選擇，旅客大可淺斟低酌，晚餐燭 影搖紅，美食紛陳大快朵頤。盛裝晚餐時更可以 試穿蘇格蘭傳統服飾；列車晚上停泊，飽餐後自 有一頓安睡。溫馨提示：不要錯過車上水療館， 可讓人暫忘塵世煩囂。

TRAIN JOURNEY | 火車傲遊

Rovos Rail

非 洲之傲列車 Take in a different perspective on Africa with Rovos Rail, which operates two beautifully rebuilt trains each catering to a maximum of 72 guests. Treat yourself to one of the wood-panelled Edwardian-styled Royal Suites during the epic 15-day journey between Cape Town and Dar es Salaam, which traverses South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Tanzania, with opportunities for Big Five viewing at the Madikwe Game Reserve, nights at the iconic Victoria Falls Hotel, and hikes through the Great Rift Valley. In between stops, drink in Africa’s ancient vistas from a leather wingback chair in the train’s lavish

lounge, dine on locally-sourced produce in the elegant dining car, or sip sundowners in the open-air Observation Car. 動人的非洲之傲列車（Rovos Rail）剛翻新兩架 列車，每列最多款待待 72 位旅客，最受歡迎當 然是愛德華式皇家鑲木套房（Royal Suites）。 非洲十五天史詩般車程，由南非開普敦到坦桑 尼亞三蘭港，跨越南非、博茨瓦納、津巴布韋、 贊比亞、坦桑尼亞；有幸在馬蒂克維禁獵區看到 獅子、豹、象、犀牛、南非水牛；在仙境般維多利 亞瀑布酒店觀星；東非大裂谷遠足，越州過省時 安坐在華麗車卡酒吧的高背皮椅，一杯在手，發 思古幽情；在典雅的餐卡享用當地佳餚或在露天 觀景車卡來啖著鷄尾酒。 M Ī R A N D U S

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TRAIN JOURNEY | 火車傲遊

The Maharajas’ Express 印度大君列車

Regularly named the best train in the world, The Maharajas’ Express offers insightful itineraries between Delhi and Mumbai and round trip from Delhi through Rajasthan. The 19-car train captures the beauty and colour of India, with daily guided excursions and behindthe-scenes encounters at timeless temples, ancient forts, and sumptuous palaces. The seven-day Panorama Journey is a captivating week-long epic through some of Northern India’s most beautiful landscapes and most historic trading and religious cities, and includes a private dinner hosted in the confines of the Gwalior Palace, an evening cruise on the Ganges, and opportunities to buy gems from local artisans. 常被譽為世上最好的印度大君列車（The Maharajas’ Express），十九節豪華車廂緩緩從 德里至孟買或經拉賈斯坦來回三地路線，展現 北印度迷人情色，每日細心安排導覽服務，探索 遠古廟宇、古堡和森嚴皇宮。七日行程壯觀宏闊 動人心弦，山川美麗如昔，踏遍古舊市集、宗教 城鎮，在瓜里爾皇宮擺宴，夜遊恆河，更多機會 購買當地工匠設計的珍寶玉石。 54

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TRAIN JOURNEY | 火車傲遊

Venice-Simplon Orient Express 威尼斯 - 辛 普 倫東方快車

Simplon-Orient-Express is the most storied set of carriages in the world.

It promises to take you not just across Europe, but to transport you back in time. With its polished wood, sumptuous upholstery and antique fixtures, the train epitomises the glamour and elegance of the Golden Age of travel. Unwind in plush 1920’s cabins boasting authentic art deco details or make your way to the lively Bar Car ‘3674’ for cocktails as the pianist sets the scene. Dining aboard is a gastronomic ritual not to be missed. Take a seat in one of the three elegant dining cars and admire Lalique glass and ornate black-lacquer panels.

Local seasonal produce is collected en route and transformed into a glorious dining experience created by the train’s

Executive Chef Take the classic journey between London and Venice or embark on an extended six-night voyage to Istanbul. Wherever you go, it’s sure to be a legendary adventure. 歐洲東方快線（Simplon-Orient-Express），可 算是世界上最富趣味的列車，旅程舒適無誤點送 抵歐洲各地。列車於 1920 年代開始運作，經多 翻裝修，如今車廂滿桃木裝潢，窗欞寬濶，既帶 昔日典雅華麗氣派，仍不失裝飾風藝術韻味，坐 在酒吧 3674 靜聽現場鋼琴演奏，大有置身二十 年代與文人雅士共遊樂之感。車上有三個用餐 卡，在黑漆木枱上配襯法國著名 Lalique 玻璃杯。 行政總廚選用時令食材泡製美色，讓你無論遊 歷倫敦至威尼斯，抑或長達六晚旅程往伊士斯 坦，也能感愛東方快線列車的精髓，超梭時空返 回黃金年代。

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TRAIN JOURNEY | 火車傲遊

Rocky Mountaineer 洛磯登山者號

An icon in the Canadian Rockies, the Rocky Mountaineer has spent more than two decades taking travellers on two-day itineraries into the depths of some of North America’s most stunning scenery.

The all-daylight travel means you don’t miss a single snow-capped mountain peak or mirror-like lake, and with the train’s acclaimed Gold Leaf service, which includes seating in a glass domed cabin, as well as gourmet dining, you’ll be in total comfort. The train follows three routes: Kicking Horse, a route that was laid out over 100 years ago; Yellowhead; and Fraser Discovery, as it journeys from Vancouver to Whistler, Jasper and Calgary in the Rockies. 遊走加拿大洛磯山脈的洛磯登山者號（Rocky Mountaineer），20 多年來乘載萬 千旅人，深入北美洲最動人心魄景區。二日白天行程，不會錯過任何一個雪山峯頂， 一面面瑰麗平湖倒映；列車遐邇聞名的金葉服務，讓你安閒地坐在玻璃穹頂廂座， 神遊仙境，品嚐美膳。旅程分三條路線，為百年古道踢馬隘口、黃頭山或探索菲沙河 谷，均由溫哥華出發往滑雪勝地惠斯勒、賈斯伯和卡爾加利。 56

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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS | 旅行裝備

Packing for Adventure

Luxury trains offer extraordinary travel experiences, but it pays to pack smart as you never know what adventures might be waiting around the next bend.

整 頓 行 裝

豪華火車旅遊不同凡響，旅途中往往會有意外驚 喜，配套得宜，更添旅遊樂趣。

Ensure you don’t miss your train with this elegant timepiece from Hermès’ Heure H Collection.

Constructed from stainless steel and supple calf leather in deep tangerine, this eye-catching watch wraps around the wrist and ensures clear legibility thanks to Arabic numeral hour markers.

Make sure you have life’s essentials with you when you head out on excursions with the new Runwell Backpack in bourbon from Shinola. The brand’s flagship backpack has been given a new look in deep brown but still has the refined lines, padded shoulder straps and gunmetal-toned hardware that’s made this bag a classic.

愛瑪仕 Heure H 精 品系列是最佳旅遊 伴侶；不銹鋼錶身， 橘子棕色柔順皮腕 帶，吸晴之外，阿拉伯 數目字錶面，令人謹記 火車抵達時間。

Keep a sharp eye out along the route with the CL Companion binoculars from Swarovski Optik.

Offering improved viewing, intuitive use, and individual style, this new generation of binoculars is ideal for travel. A new balanced optics concept provides users with an unforgettable yet comfortable viewing experience, with high-contrast images that are razorsharp and colour-true, and an intuitive, ergonomic design that’s both rugged and slim. 旅途中東張西望，更不要忘了施華洛世奇光學出的 CL Companion 頂級雙筒望遠鏡，新一代望遠鏡醒目怡神，均勻 視感看得更精準，顏色更分明，更舒服，過目難忘；望遠鏡依 人體工程學直觀設計，粗獷外型卻輕巧，令人愛不釋手。

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奇千萬不要忘了 Runwell Backpack， 美國前鞋油公司 Shinola 品牌產品， 琥珀色背包線條歷 久常新，墊肩舒適， 黃銅色堅靭內櫳， 美國製造典型代 表設計。

You’ll turn heads with this plain lightweight Escorial Scarf in port from Joshua Ellis. Functional and stylish, this packing essential is made from the finest wool – that’s Escorial by the way – from hand-picked flocks from across Australasia, sheep that are decedents of the Spanish Royal flocks of El Escorial. How’s that for an ice breaker? 成立於 1767 年的英國老牌羊毛產品 名店 Joshua Ellis，採用澳洲和紐西蘭 頂級羊毛，全是西班牙埃斯科里亞爾皇家羊群的後裔，溫柔 舒適，登上破冰船也能擋風保暖。披一條素質輕盈的埃爾圍 巾回眸淺笑，人見人愛！

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS | 旅行裝備 A striking combination of good looks and unparalleled performance, the Leica CL is a compact dynamo for shooters of all skill levels. With an APS-C sensor, a built-in high-resolution electronic viewfinder, fast auto focus performance thanks to a 49-point AF system, and a Leica Summicron-TL 23 mm f/2 ASPH lens, the CL series is unobtrusive yet delivers superior image quality.

Pair it with the Leica protector in brown leather for a timeless look.

Keep those lips subtle as you race across the landscape with the new Kiehl’s Buttermask for Lips, an intensive overnight lip treatment for dry, chapped lips. Formulated with coconut oil and wild mango butter, this luxurious balm restores lips, leaving an overall smoother texture. Apply overnight for softer lips by morning and follow with the Butterstick Lip Treatment, for a pop of colour with continued moisture during the day.

德國徠卡 CL 系列相機，新手老手皆容易上手，經典菲林機 設計外型，相片質素一流。高像素 APS-C 畫幅傳感器，電子 取景，快速自動對焦；有賴 49 點區域自動對焦系統和徠卡 Summicron-TL 23 mm f/2 ASPH 鏡頭。CL 相機系列毫不 張揚，但成品卓越，若配上徠卡棕色皮機套，相得益彰，雋永 不群。

只要輕輕塗上 Kiehl 最新奶油修護晚安唇膜，治療乾燥坼 裂嘴唇，一覺醒來，嘴唇圓潤，又可以繼續遊山玩水。靈驗 的唇膜用椰子油加野生芒果油合製而成，不單滋潤和修護 乾燥皮膚，更能平滑及軟化咀唇；晚上用過唇膜，早上再薄 薄塗上奶油潤唇膏，加點顏色，全天候保濕，保持雙唇健康 潤澤。

Perfect for airport concourses or train station platforms, the new 19 Degree Gunmetal carry on luggage from Tumi is both striking and made to handle the ordeals of travel. The case features two mesh zip pockets, tiedown straps on both compartments, TSA integrated locks, a three-stage telescoping handle system, and a rugged metallic exterior that carries its scars with pride.

The case even comes with a series of vintage-inspired stickers to allow you to add a touch of personalization to your case.

Keep the chill at bay with this elegant wrap cardigan with belt from Brunello Cucinelli’s Spring/Summer collection. Made from a blend of unique yarns that give a slight shimmering effect, this is a packing essential for nights spent watching the world go by from the open-air observation car. 意大利 Brunello Cucinelli 品牌全新春夏季灑麗脫俗系列， 羊毛薄外套由混合羊絨、馬海毛、羊駝毛織成，就算坐在露天 觀景車卡上迎風晚立，也陪感暖意。

TUMI 出品的 19 Degree 鋁 合金行李箱 (19 Degree Gunmetal)，無論在 機場大堂或火車站月 台，一出現就引人注 目。行李箱有二個網 式拉鏈口袋，左右隔 層配有帶，二個 TSA 集成組合密碼鎖，三 級伸縮帶按紐手柄， 箱面獨特金屬紋路， 凹凸蝕痕印證天涯 足跡；隨箱附送復古 風格貼紙，任君選用， 盡顯個人品味。

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WELLNESS | 洗滌心靈

因 果 業 力 When Louk Lennaerts first visited Bhutan in 2013, he found a peace he never knew possible.

Inspired by this unique Himalayan kingdom and its ancient wellness traditions, he founded Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary, a unique holistic hideaway offering travellers a dramatically different pace of life.

2013 年，荷蘭人 Louk Lennaer t s 首次踏足獨特的喜馬拉 雅山王國不 丹，內心突然寧靜 得有點不可思議， 促成創辦養生度假酒店 Bhut an Spir it Sanc tuar y，成為旅人庇護 區，以不丹精神洗滌身心。

Why did you choose Bhutan for your wellness sanctuary? 為何選擇在不丹設立康健養生酒店？

During my 20-plus years in hospitality in Vietnam I saw the landscape of the high-end hospitality market change. Increasingly, people are looking for a different, deeper experience when they travel and want to truly connect with the destination they visit. For a lot of those travellers, they leave behind busy jobs and hectic lives and want to take time out to slow down and reconnect with themselves. The Bhutanese still really trust in the benefits of traditional medicine, and the knowledge has been well-kept and passed-on throughout generations and the heart of our Sanctuary lies in keeping to Bhutanese traditions. 我在越南從事豪華酒店業務超過二十年，旅遊方式不斷演變，旅 客越來越需要內在體驗與地緣接觸，放下繁忙又緊張的日常生 活和工作之同時，希望停頓一下尋回初心。不丹人仍深信自己傳 統醫藥的能效，更妥善承傳，成立此酒店也為了保存不丹傳統。

What makes Bhutan a unique holistic destination? 為甚麼不丹是最佳國家進行整體治療？

Bhutan has it all; pristine nature, unique culture, spirituality, magical stories from the olden days and people who feel miracles do exist and happen in their everyday lives. Bhutan has never been colonised; it has fully developed its own identity over time, resulting in a strong support for its monarchy and benevolent kings.

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WELLNESS | 洗滌心靈 One of the philosophies of the retreat is ‘inspirational hospitality’; what does that mean to you? 「善待靈視」為退修其一哲學，這個對你重要嗎？

is not one place or person, but everything combined.

There is something in the air in Bhutan, which is just indescribable, it can only be experienced, and our Sanctuary tries to add to that magic by connecting guests to the soul and spirit of Bhutan. 不丹仍擁有自然和諧、獨特文化、精神生活、古老魔幻傳奇，人 民仍然相信日常生活會出現奇蹟，並且不丹從未被殖民，悠久 以來凝聚了完整歸屬感，支持王國制度和仁慈愛民的國王。能 成為整體療癒理想地方，不因一人一地，而是綜合整體。不丹 空氣有着不可言諭的魔幻觸感，酒店嘗試以不同方式，讓賓客 與不丹靈魂和精神結緣。

To us inspirational hospitality is a multifaceted raw diamond, and a never-ending pursuit to create personalised experiences for our guests, connecting them to Bhutan and its people. Our inspirational hospitality is not about reaching or achieving perfection – just the opposite. We would like our guests to experience a new kind of luxury – perfect imperfection – where every encounter is genuine and heartfelt, and experiences are authentic. This is what creates a living destination.

Inspirational hospitality for us also means that once a guest arrives at the Sanctuary, they are treated like family and our well-being inclusive concept includes everything in the room rate, from meals and wellness to special activities in and around our Sanctuary. 「善待靈視」如鑽石般有多面體，需要永恆探索和啟發自身經 驗，從而讓旅客和不丹人與地結成一體。我們目標不是為了達 致圓滿，反之為了領悟另一境界「完美中的不完美」，每一次 邂逅都是來自內心真實，原始撫慰，使酒店成為創造心靈聖地。 賓客一進來就像回家般溫暖，房價已包括全部膳食和區內區 外所有康健服務。

How have you incorporated local architecture into its design? 請問你如何將當地建築融合到設計之中？

What inspired the development of the Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary? 甚麼促使成立這間養生度假酒店？

In short, my desire to create a surrounding in which I could live my own life differently, with more focus on my personal well-being in every single possible aspect, in combination with the realisation that more people are looking to (re-)connect to themselves as well as to the destination they visit. I wanted to create a place where people feel at home and part of the family; a place which is a destination in itself, capturing the essence of Bhutan. 簡單來說，我希望每天都活在身心康寧和滿足的獨特地方，我 亦意會要創立酒店成家庭感覺，每人都是一份子，活在不丹神 韻中，成為與內心根源相結合的旅遊地方。

The Sanctuary’s architecture is inspired by the Bhutanese monasteries and Dzongs (fortresses). An entry gate with two large wooden doors leads to a large courtyard with prayer wheels on the surrounding walls and a tree of life in the centre. Other design elements include decorated carved wooden support beams and rooms with subtle touches related to important Buddhist symbols. In addition, the beds in the rooms are placed in accordance with tradition, so feet do not point towards the monastery across the valley. The fact that originally the local people in our valley thought we were building a monastery was the proof of concept. And more recently, Robb Report Thailand referred to us as “The Monastery of Wellness”. 不丹寺廟和「宗」（城堡）的設計影響酒店建築風格，一對大 木門開到天井，佛家生命樹屹立中庭，兩旁為轉經輪，橫樑木 雕敷排佛經故事。房內睡床依傳統擺放，雙腳不會對著山谷中 寺廟。酒店初建時，當地人還以為是座新寺廟。最近，泰國羅 博報告指酒店像一所「康健修道院寺廟」。

Tell us about traditional Bhutanese medicine and how you implement it in your treatments. 怎樣運用不丹醫藥在療程內？

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WELLNESS | 洗滌心靈 are in-line with the Himalayan traditions, and our Sanctuary has two in-house traditional medicine doctors who act as well-being guides for our guests.

Bhutan was in the olden days also known as Menjong, The Land of Medicinal Plants. We are currently in the process of collecting all medicinal herbs and plants known in our valley – we currently have 100 and hope to reach the full 265 – and use them in our massage oils, herbal baths and incense. Also, our restaurant bar has many different healing teas and our traditional medicine doctors, together with our chefs, look at the different ways in which these herbs and plants can be used in the Sanctuary cuisine. 不丹人崇尚傳統醫藥，酒店採用承傳自喜馬拉雅山區的療法， 兩位傳統治療師長駐酒店為客人提供康健指南。不丹上古又 稱藏香，意謂天然草本之地。我們已搜集了谷中 100 類草本， 目標是 265 種，用來製造香料、按摩油、香草浴，傳統醫師和 廚師正在研究如何將全部香草植物入饌。

Can you give us an example of the kinds of treatments we might encounter at the Spirit Sanctuary? 養生酒店有甚麼康健療程？

During a guest’s consult with one of our traditional medicine doctors, they receive advice on which treatments would benefit them most, and why. In addition, the doctor will also give them dietary recommendations, which will further help them balance body and mind. Under the guidance of the renowned Dr. Sherab Barma, we are continuously working on developing and offering new traditional medicine treatments. Current signature treatments include hot stone baths, moxibustion, herbal compression, hot oil compression and Ku Nye massage. 傳統醫藥治療師為客人解釋和提供最有效的藥療，同時設計 不同食療，雙管齊下達致身心平衡。著名的喜饒巴馬醫生正在 鑽研新式傳統療法，現時大受歡迎的療程有熱石浴、艾灸、香 草指壓、熱油指壓和藏式養生按摩 Ku Nye。

What role does cuisine play at the retreat? 食物甚樣配合療養？

The food concept of the Sanctuary is unique in many ways. We do not use any menus in our restaurant, and instead chefs try to incorporate as much local produce into dishes as possible, in the farm-to-table style. To further support this, we grow herbs and vegetables 62

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in our gardens and greenhouse. As part of our holistic approach to well-being, our traditional medicine doctors also play their part in the Sanctuary’s cuisine, consulting guests on their diets.

If the guest is open to this, the doctors will confer with our chefs, who in turn will optimise the culinary offering for each guest to increase their well-being. 我們餐飲概念是沒有傳統餐牌，獨特得來又多樣化。廚師盡量 採用當地新鮮食材，從農家收割直接送上餐桌，我們亦有自家 農地和溫室種植。為了達至全面整體康建效益，客人喜歡的話， 可與醫師和廚師共同商議設計美膳，泡製自己獨特菜色。

Tell us about the community initiatives that Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary is involved with and how guests might help. 旅客可否參與酒店與社區合作計劃嗎？

Our Sanctuary looks out on Neyphu Valley and the historic Eutok Samdrupcholing goenpa nestled on its mountainside. It houses a monastic school for 65 boys aged between 5 and 25. We have a special relationship with the monks and student monks of Eutok Samdrupcholing goenpa. They always bless us with their presence on auspicious days and Sanctuary events and we try to support them in different ways, including supporting improvements to their infrastructure and by donating the outside lighting for the temple. Guests can also help out; the monastic school is always short on particular items and supplies and our Pack for a Purpose projects ensure guests are donating what’s needed. We also support Bhutan Animal Rescue and Care (BARC) and The Maya Foundation – Barnyard Bhutan and together we set up a pilot programme targeted at treating and caring for the many free dogs at and around the Sanctuary with respect, kindness and compassion. The aim is to have a happy and healthy coexistence of humans and dogs. 養生酒店在帕羅里埔山谷，毗鄰歷史悠久寺廟修道院 Eutok Samdrupcholing goenpa，有 65 名五歲至二十五歲的僧侶 學生。我們關係密切，在吉祥和喜慶日子，學生會來祝禱，酒店 以不同方式回饋，如維修寺廟、護理戶外燈光照明系統等等。 寺廟常物資短缺，遊客固然可參與布袋計劃，以物盡其用概念 為寺廟收集所欠缺的物資；我們也支持不丹拯救和愛護動物 計劃（BARC）和不丹穀場美雅基金，關愛流浪狗隻，使人狗快 樂共處，小小付出，大大改變。

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