Miniguide Barcelona #125, Jul/Aug ‘19

miniguide | #125 Jul/Aug ‘19

events

arts&culture food&drink

innovation style&design music maps

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CONSTRUYENDO NUEVOS MUNDOS PANTALLA BARCELONA SALA MONTJUÏC CRUÏLLA LA FIRA DEL POBLENOU NIÑO DE ELCHE AFROBEATS BCN FESTIVAL SOUNDEAT DE NIT BACHCELONA TIH DAY 1 FACT MUSIC POOL SERIES THIS IS HARDCORE SÓNAR BY DAY SÓNAR BY NIGHT FEMINISMS! DETROIT LOVE X RUSH HOUR LADYTRON KEVIN JOHANSEN REIKI LEVEL ONE FESTA MAJOR DE GRÀCIA FESTA MAJOR DE SANTS DGTL TABLAO DE CARMEN A NEW LIFE A PLUMA REX CAFÉ LES FILLES CAFÈ LA QUERIDA BARNA-BREW CABARET DEPOT LAB KLAP MISS KLECKLEY STORE CURTIS AUDIOPHILE CAFE LA TORRE IBIZA – VOLUMEN TRES

DIRECTOR Michael Mueller EDITOR Sophie Cameron WRITERS Vittoria de Franchis, Matthew Duffield, Eve

Gabriel, Claire Gledhill, Ben Holbrook, Jessica Holom, Mariana Hristova, Tamara Izko, Alena Kh, Aimee Lawrence, Yvonne Mannix, Suzy Taher, Sam WalkerSmart ADMINISTRATION Karim Délano COVER PHOTO Ana Mendieta: Untitled (Glass on Body Imprints) PHOTO THIS PAGE © Pilar Aymerich COVER STORY Feminisms! p. 22 MINIGUIDE Ronda Universitat 15, 1–1 08007 Barcelona ADVERTISING anuncios@miniguide.co EDITORIAL agenda@miniguide.co TEL +34 646 60 21 70

A RT S&CU LTU R E |

until Sep 15

CONSTRUYENDO NUEVOS MUNDOS

By Matthew Duffield, matthewsedition.tumblr.com

Marcel Duchamp: Rotoreliefs

In today’s difficult times, it’s easy to forget there have been more turbulent eras, not least of which in the last century. Art is one of the key ways in which change can be understood by future generations, and works that were products of their time still resonate today. The early 20th century witnessed an explosion of artistic movements throughout Europe that broke with established forms. Futurism, surrealism, constructivism, Dadaism and analytical abstraction: these movements all bring strong images to mind, and the 4

exhibition Construyendo nuevos mundos 1914– 1945 (“building new worlds”) is an opportunity to see many of the finest examples by leading artists of the time under one roof. Curated by the Institut Valencià d’Art Modern, this exhibition examines art as political propaganda; the avantgarde and experimentation; stories of liberty, mystery and utopia; and, above all, the desire to shake off the past and try something new.

CAIXAFORUM. Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6–8 (Montjuïc) caixaforum.es

€3 / €6

Josep Renau

5

FILM |

until Jul 23

PANTALLA BARCELONA

By Sophie Cameron, sophie-cameron.com

Black is Beltza

Among the various outdoor film cycles taking place this summer is Pantalla Barcelona, a series of free screenings of recent movies held at four civic centers across Barcelona. Kicking off at 9:30pm or 10pm and preceded by a DJ set, the eight films span a range of themes and genres.

There’s animation in Fermín Muguruza’s Black is Beltza (July 9th), about a Pamplonan troupe of gigantes y cabezudos (giant figurines) invited to parade down 5th Avenue in New York in 1965, and the racism they encounter there; and documentary 6

in Petitet (July 23rd), about a Raval gitano trying to fulfill a promise to his late mother to restore Catalan rumba to its former glory. Another one to watch out for is Elena Trapé’s Les distàncies (July 5th), about a group of friends realizing how much things have changed between them as they reunite for a 35th birthday in Berlin. For younger viewers who can handle a later screening time, Superlópez, based on the popular Spanish comics, is showing on July 4th and 16th. lameva.barcelona.cat/pantallabarcelona

Mon, Wed & Fri until Aug 2 |

F ILM

SALA MONTJUÏC

By Aimee Lawrence, facebook.com/amethyst.promo

Right folks, get ready to grab the cava and head for Montjuïc Castle, as one of the highlights of the summer is back for al fresco entertainment with a stellar cast of movie shakers. Sala Montjuïc, an outdoor cinema at the foot of the castle, brings another superb selection of flicks from golden favorites like Goodfellas (July 5th), Kill Bill (July 26th) and Some Like It Hot (July 29th) to a succession of those newer to the big screen, including Bohemian Rhapsody (July 3rd), Lady Bird (July 8th), Green Book (July 10th) and Pain and

Glory (July 15th). Before you indulge in your chosen viewing, there will be live music performances from afro-electric dub trio Ominira, eight-piece band The Monkey Men and gypsy jazz group Scaramouche Quartet, among many more. Basic entrance is 6.50 euros, though there are combos that include a chair or a castle visit. Another great new intro to the program is their eco-picnics, so you can leave the snacks in their hands.

CASTELL DE MONTJUìC. salamontjuic.org

€6.50 / +€3.25 (chair) / +€11 (picnic) 7

MU SI C |

Jul 3Ð6

CRUÏLLA

By Sam Walker-Smart, samwalker-smart.tumblr.com

Aurora

With an oddly wet May out the way, summer has now truly ignited in Barcelona – and that means festivals ahoy. Primavera Sound enjoyed another bumper year, but Parc del Fòrum still has one more multi-day bash to host: the tenth edition of Cruïlla. A less hectic and more family-friendly affair, the festival offers a bumper crop of artists this year including the ever-enchanting Kylie Minogue, indie titans Foals and perky popstars Years & Years. Throw in the soulful tunes of Michael Kiwanuka and ‘90s classics from Gar8

bage, and you’ve got something for everyone. Our personal pick is Norwegian singer-songwriter Aurora who’s just dropped her second album as well as providing vocals on the recent The Chemical Brothers album. A rising star worth catching, she’ll be followed by the Black Eyed Peas on Wednesday. This is the ideal party to get your July started. We’ll see you at the front!

PARC DEL FñRUM. (Sant Adrià de Besòs) €45 (Wed) / €25 (Thu) / €75 (Sat or Sun) / €160 (festival) cruillabarcelona.com

Michael Kiwanuka

9

Foals

FOOD &D R I N K |

Jul 5Ð7

LA FIRA DEL POBLENOU

By Michael Mueller

Poblenou’s annual craft beer fest returns for an eighth edition with 50 local and international breweries in what is billed as Spain’s “largest beer fair.” The organizers are a non-profit supported by the Generalitat de Catalunya and Ajuntament de Barcelona with the laudable aim of promoting local consumption and production of craft beer. Catalunya, Galicia, Basque Country and Madrid will be represented, together with breweries from the US, Italy, Belgium, Portugal, Poland, Sweden, Denmark, The Netherlands 10

and Germany (thanks to a collaboration this edition with the Berlin Beer Week). The program includes guided tastings, talks, live music, DJ sessions and kids activities. There will also be 15 street food trucks, including vegetarian and gluten-free options. It all takes place around the intersection of Rambla del Poblenou and Passeig Calvell. Craft beer, street food and live music 100 meters from Bogatell beach? Yes please!

PARC DEL POBLENOU. (Poblenou) lafiradelpoblenou.com

Jul 8 at 10pm |

MUSIC

NIÑO DE ELCHE

By Matthew Duffield, matthewsedition.tumblr.com

The Grec Festival, organized by the Barcelona city council in June and July, is a world-renowned celebration of international theater, dance, music and circus. One of the highlights this year is Niño de Elche performing at Teatre Grec on Monday, July 8th. An artist born in Valencia with family roots in Granada, Niño de Elche will showcase his latest album, Colombiana, which fuses flamenco with Latin music. It’s a journey that travels from Andalucía to the African-rooted music of the Caribbean, drawing on many

influences along the way. In fact, this is what Francisco Contreras – to use the artist’s real name – is all about: challenging the purists and finding the common threads in music. Previous albums by Niño de Elche have integrated his flamenco background with krautrock, rave, folkloric and avant-garde styles in his characteristic heterodox manner. On top of that, he’s an exceptional singer and charismatic performer.

TEATRE GREC. Passeig Santa Madrona, 3 (Montjuïc) barcelona.cat/grec

€15–€25 11

MU SI C |

Jul 12, doors at 7pm

AFROBEATS BCN FESTIVAL

By Yvonne Mannix, yvonnesedition.tumblr.com

There’s been a surge of interest in the Afrobeat genre in Barcelona in the last few years, with concerts and events cropping up frequently. As well as celebrating the rich past of the music brought to us by Fela Kuti and his successors, there are plenty of new parties highlighting emerging artists from the Afrobeat scene. Afrobeats, the 21st century music born in Nigeria, marries the rhythm and culture of traditional music with influences from Afrobeat, rap, reggae and dancehall to make an eclectic kind of music merging tradition and 12

technology. The dance floor is the best place to appreciate these sounds that feel designed to make you move. The Afrobeats festival is celebrating the wealth of talent to be found in this scene and will include performances from Ogun Afrobeat, DE9, Momi Maiga and more plus DJ Vanuza Casimiro. To help you get in the spirit there’ll be dance workshops, face painting and hair braiding.

Go and move your feet to the Afrobeats!

APOLO. C/ Nou de la Rambla, 113 (Poble Sec) afrobeatsbarcelona.com

€25 / €35

Jul 13 from 5pmÐ2am |

NIGH T LIF E

SOUNDEAT DE NIT

By Vittoria de Franchis

Taking place within the framework of the Festival Jardins de Pedralbes, Soundeat de Nit features two stages for anyone into the darker recesses of electronic music. On the main stage will be Mike Huckaby, a dance music purist extraordinaire and the man behind the legendary Record Time store in Detroit. He will be joined by San Proper; unpredictable, sometimes bizarre and eclectic, this is a guy you can never get bored of. Over on stage two, El Jardín de las Delicias, will be Elena Colombi, a rising artist

who is never one to pander to trends, instead embracing the best elements of the past and future: pulsing techno, ambient atmospheres, synthesized sounds, freaky disco, Balearic love affairs, proto-house and more. Completing this dance circle are local DJs, playing solo as well as b2b. A fan and sunglasses are a must.

JARDINS PALAU REIAL. Av. Diagonal, 686 (Pedralbes) soundeatbcn.com

€18 13

MU SI C |

Jul 16Ð21

BACHCELONA

By Mariana Hristova

This year’s Bachcelona, a unique festival dedicated to the music of Johann Sebastian Bach, experiments with key urban spaces. Three days before it officially begins, electric cello performances will sound throughout the Diagonal Metro station, while the festival’s Gaudint Bach (“enjoying Bach”) section offers a baroque-romantic repertoire at La Pedrera and a soprano-trumpet concert at Palau Güell, two of Gaudí’s most emblematic buildings. Hospital de Sant Pau will host a chamber violin performance and the usual 14

swing dance event at its gardens, while Museu de la Música will play the stage for an accordion interpretation of Bach’s compositions. The leitmotif this year is the dialog between Bach and his contemporary, Georg Friedrich Händel. The opening concert at Palau de la Música presents Bach’s secular cantata The Choice of Hercules and parts of Händel’s opera Hercules, both based on the mythology of the glorious Greek hero. bachcelona.com

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NIGH TL I F E |

Jun 18, doors at 12am

TIH DAY 1

By Vittoria de Franchis

Rødhåd © Matthias Wehofsky

They say Thursday is the new Friday. This is Hardcore is back at Razzmatazz with a mind-blasting lineup spreading into the club’s different rooms, ranging from futuristic world music tonalities to 4/4 techno, post-punk and downbeat trance. On July 18th, Razzmatazz’s main room, Razzclub, will feature a showcase celebrating the tenth anniversary of Dystopian, the imprint founded by Rødhåd and one of the hottest techno labels today. In The Loft, Mannequin founder Alessandro Adriani 16

teams up with the legendary The Hacker plus Düsseldorf ’s spiritual selector Lena Willikens, Pinkman affiliate Identified Patient as well as the acidic Gesloten Cirkel. Last but not least, Lolita will host the Ugandan festival and label currently on everyone’s lips, Nyege Nyege, whose techno, soukous and abstract electro draw from the cultural melting pot of Kampala’s music scene.

RAZZMATAZZ. C/ Almogàvers, 122 (Poblenou) salarazzmatazz.com

€16 (advance)

Jul 18Ð19 |

NIGH T LIF E

FACT MUSIC POOL SERIES

By Aimee Lawrence, facebook.com/amethyst.promo

FACT gears up to bring clubbers a dynamite series of their renowned pool parties this month, and it’s grabbed a new venue. The sun seekers and the music savvy will be headed for Go Beach Club, with the first session bringing Spanish tech house champ Cuartero and his motivated record label Sanity to give us a blistering lineup including Boxia, Christian Burkhardt, Guti, Martin Buttrich and Sante. Next in to steer a daytime session is Lee Burridge with his inimitable event series All Day I Dream, and joining

him behind the booth are YokoO, Lost Desert and Facundo Mohrr. Cutting in last to take clubbers from Friday evening through to the early hours is Italian don Davide Squillace with his This & That label showcase. Added to the lineup are Richy Ahmed, Rodriguez Jr., Basti Grub and Matteo Spedicati. Formerly Café del Mar at Port Fòrum, Go has stunning views out over the sea, as well as a Funktion One sound system.

GO BEACH CLUB. (Port Fòrum) fact-musicpoolseries.com

€25 / €35 (advance) 17

NIGH TL I F E |

Jul 18Ð20

THIS IS HARDCORE

By Aimee Lawrence, facebook.com/amethyst.promo

A.G

Techno heads in need of a fix should make a beeline for Razzmatazz as This Is Hardcore returns this July. Kicking off the showcase is a blistering lineup including Belgian powerhouse Charlotte de Witte, Berlin legend Rødhåd, distinguished duo FJAAK, Cologne-based selector Lena Willikens and enigmatic producer Gesloten Cirkel. Night two sees the booth utilized by Evian Christ with his current penchant for hardcore sounds and trance revival; joining him are producers Evol, Skudero and Total Freedom. Elsewhere, you’ll 18

find urban persuasions in Razzclub with US “cash me outside” rapper Bhad Bhabie and in Lolita with London producer A.G and collective Chica Gang. Saturday’s installment brings the noise with techno heroes Ben Sims, Surgeon, DJ Bone and Rebekah in the main room. Mella Dee, Paranoid London and Mount Kimbie set the pace in The Loft, while Lolita sees in Umfang alongside Beta Librae and a secret guest TBA. RAZZMATAZZ. C/ Almogàvers, 122 (Poblenou) salarazzmatazz.com

€16 (advance)

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MU SI C |

Jul 18Ð20

SÓNAR BY DAY

By Eve Gabriel, instagram.com/eve__gabriel

Since its creation in 1994, Sónar has helped shape the phenomena of conceptual music festivals in Europe with its fluidity in experimental artists, technology and creativity. Rightfully placing Barcelona high on the worldwide festival map, Sónar continually impresses festivalgoers with artistic lineups, mesmerizing audiovisuals and first-class sound systems. Known for leaning heavily in to the house and techno genres, 2019 sees the festival evolving towards a younger crowd with a wave of diversity in the form of Latin, 20

urban, trap and reggaeton, while maintaining the sound and credibility that gave Sónar its prominent name. Expect to see artists from across the spectrum at Sónar by Day, including exciting young producer Afrodeutsche and Barcelona’s Titi Calor on Thursday, Ibiza breakout Aleesha and Parisian rapper Lomepal on Friday, and pioneering multi-instrumentalist FKJ and local hero Bad Gyal on Saturday, to name just a few.

FIRA MONTJUìC. (Montjuïc) sonar.es

€65 (one day) / €215 (festival)

Jul 19Ð20 |

NIGH T LIF E

SÓNAR BY NIGHT

By Tamara Izko, tamaraizko.wordpress.com

Barcelona’s hottest advanced music, creativity and technology event needs no intro, but with a vast, eclectic program bringing together the latest trends, it’s wise to take a careful look at what Sónar has to offer. This edition’s Friday night highlights include Harlem rapper Rakim Mayers, aka A$AP Rocky, and Parisian electro duo Acid Arab, likely to premiere new tracks live. Floating Points will take control of Sónar Car with a 6-hour set, while the legendary Four Tet will set the rhythm till dawn with two hours

of pure musical delight at Sonar Pub. Other big names on the evening include DJ Koze and classics like Underworld and Disclosure with a DJ set. On Saturday, Amelie Lens will take over with her vibrant Antwerp techno, with other trendy headliners not to miss like Latin trap sensation Bad Bunny, Berlin-based producer Dixon, Kaytranada with his “bootleg voodoo”, American rapper Lil Uzi Vert – and the list goes on.

FIRA GRAN VIA. (L’Hospitalet) sonar.es

€85 (one night) / €215 (festival) 21

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Jul 19 Ð Dec 1

FEMINISMS!

By Sophie Cameron, sophie-cameron.com

While many aspects of ‘70s feminism are now deemed problematic, the decade marked a turning point for the women’s rights movement, with a new generation of women challenging the status quo through groundbreaking art and actions.

Held at the CCCB, Feminisms! explores feminist art of the period and its effect on subsequent movements. The Feminist Avant-Garde of the 1970s. Works from the Verbund Collection, Vienna brings together 200 works by 73 artists and illustrates how female artists rewrote the representation of women in art, creating a plurality of feminine identities in photography, cinema and beyond.

Running alongside this is Chereographies of Gender, an exploration of how feminism has expanded in the past 50 years, namely in its understanding on gender not as a fixed binary, but as a spectrum, and in feminism’s inability to be extracted from other forms of oppression.

For those who want to delve deeper, curators Marta Segarra and Gabriele Schor will discuss the exhibition’s themes with artists Esther Ferrer and Lydia Schouten in an inaugural talk on July 18th.

CCCB. C/ Montalegre, 5 (Raval) cccb.org 22

€6

Eleanor Antin: The King of Solana Beach

23 Birgit JĂźrgenssen: Kitchen Apron

NIGH TL I F E |

Jul 19 from 4pmÐ1am

DETROIT LOVE X RUSH HOUR

By Vittoria de Franchis

Twenty years ago, had you traveled overseas to witness Detroit’s throbbing house and techno scene, you might have discovered its electronic music scene by popping into the basement of the hair salon where Rush Hour was initially located in 1997. Today, distances have shortened, allowing everybody to listen and participate physically in a vast amount of music from the mainstream to the so-called underground.

Barcelona is one of the cities that offers that possibility all year round, especially during 24

Sónar and the collection of unofficial events commonly referred to as “off ” Sónar. Two of the biggest institutions – Detroit Love, a new concept from Carl Craig designed to bring together and support the sounds of Detroit, and Antal’s imprint Rush Hour – come together one afternoon at Poble Espanyol with some of the most iconic artists from the ‘90s to now.

POBLE ESPANYOL. Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guardia (Montjuïc) offsonar.co

€40

Jul 27, doors at 1am |

MUSIC

LADYTRON

By Yvonne Mannix, yvonnesedition.tumblr.com

Ladytron are back with their first album since 2011, and their eponymously titled return sees them in a more dystopian mood than ever. Not surprising in these times, perhaps, and the band have spoken about wanting to create a sense of disorientation and claustrophobia on the album’s first single “The Island,” where they sing “we are sirens of the apocalypse.” The album ends on a hopeful note, however, with “Tomorrow Is Another Day” starting off a with melancholy sense of foreboding before building to a euphoric end,

its optimistic chorus signaling better days to come. Fans of the band’s blend of analog synths and vocal harmonies will be intrigued as ever, not least with the addition of Iggor Cavalera of Sepultura on drums. The quartet touch down at Razzmatazz on July 27th as part of the album tour. With the Ladytron blend of intense but accessible music and matching visual backdrops, this looks set to be an unmissable night.

RAZZMATAZZ. C/ Almogàvers, 122 (Poblenou) salarazzmatazz.com

€16 / €18 25

MU SI C |

Jul 30 at 9pm

KEVIN JOHANSEN

By Tamara Izko, tamaraizko.wordpress.com

I first saw Kevin Johansen play around 2003 in Buenos Aires at a packed theater, the city’s largest. By then, the Argentine-American artist was already famous. A decade had passed since he’d created the group The Nada and began playing in the US then later in his other home country.

His album Sur o No Sur, released in 2002, launched his career internationally, earning him fans around the world, including in Spain. Six albums have followed; the latest isAlgo Ritmos, released earlier this year. The album combines 26

humor, mellow melodies and lyrics sung in both English and Spanish, and features collaborations with artists including Jorge Drexler. In this latest work, Johansen carries on with the unique style he developed during his residence in the early ‘90s at New York’s legendary CBGB club.

This month, as part of the Grec Festival, he’ll be presenting his latest project at BARTS, making for a fun, flawless plan for a summer night.

BARTS. Av. Paral·lel, 62 (Raval) barcelona.cat/grec

€20–€35

Aug 3 from 10:30amÐ5:30pm |

F IT NESS&WELLNESS

REIKI LEVEL ONE

By Aimee Lawrence, facebook.com/amethyst.promo

Anyone looking to master reiki has an opportunity to gain the skills behind the Japanese healing technique this August. What some maybe don’t realize is that absolutely anybody can be attuned to practice reiki, and once you have been, you’ll never lose the gift. In this session (conducted in English), practitioner Zoe Wood will lead you through the training, beginning with the atonement, which is a healing experience in and of itself as it opens and clears your energy. Throughout the course of

the day you’ll also learn the story of the origins of reiki, practice healing with reiki, experience group meditation for the heart and have a Q&A session. Wood is a breathwork guide, reiki healer and emotional healing guide, passionate about helping people to remember who they are and to connect to their power and truth.

EL 7. C/ Pallars 84–88, 6º 3ª (Poblenou) zoewoodhealing.com

€90 27

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Aug 15Ð21

FESTA MAJOR DE GRÀCIA

By Thomas Macaulay, beyondlarambla.com

Barcelona’s largest summer street festival was first documented in 1817. Over 200 years later, festivities once again return to the Vila de Gràcia, the historic center of what was formerly a free-standing village. The festival program comprises more than 400 events, including workshops, kids’ activities, performing arts and Catalan cultural traditions. Expect castellers (human castles), locals dancing the sardana, revelers dressed as devils running amok with giant sparklers for the correfoc (fire run), and parades 28

of papier-mâché gegants (giants), caps grossos (big heads) and dracs (dragons). When night falls, live music stages and bars across the neighborhood help create a barrio block party, but the main attraction remains the competition for bestdecorated street. This spectacular displays turn Gràcia into a vast street art exhibition, lighting the district up at night.

festamajordegracia.cat

Aug 18Ð26 |

ART S&C ULT URE

FESTA MAJOR DE SANTS

By Ben Holbrook, driftwoodjournals.com

Much like the fabled Festa Major de Gràcia that precedes it, but with smaller crowds and a more local vibe, the Festa Major de Sants offers an authentic insight into contemporary barrio life. By day you can expect psychedelic street decorations, cava-fueled barbecues and death-defying castellers (human castles). Crowds swell as dusk falls, and local bands pump out an endless stream of block rockin’ beats.

Don’t miss the fun and games on and around streets like Valladolid, Finlàndia and Vallespir.

And for all night fiestas à la summer in Barcelona, be sure to hit the main stage next to Sants Estació (just off Comtes de Bell-Lloc street), and follow the crowds to Parc de l’Espanya Industrial.

If/when you feel the need to escape the chaos, be sure to patronize one of the little bars and restaurants in Plaça d’Osca. And don’t worry if you fail to see it all in one visit, as the revelry lasts for the entire third week of August. ¿¡Qué bueno, no!?

festamajorsants.cat 29

NIGH TL I F E |

Aug 23Ð24

DGTL

By Yvonne Mannix, yvonnesedition.tumblr.com

The belief that festivals from The Netherlands do a better job than their counterparts elsewhere is strongly held in the electronic music community. This is due in part to the contribution DGTL have made to the festival landscape since their beginnings in Amsterdam. Bringing the festival to Barcelona five years ago may have seemed like a bold move in a city already well supplied with summer music events, but DGTL quickly proved their mix of outstanding lineups, futuristic art installations, sustainability initiatives 30

(they aim to be carbon neutral by 2020) and efficient organization made them strong contenders. This year’s edition sees them back with a stellar list of artists from the international and local electronic music scene. It would be easier to list who isn’t playing than who is. Expect Detroit pioneers like Jeff Mills as well as guests like DJ Harvey with his eclectic vibe. Good electronic music across the board, basically.

PARC DEL FñRUM. (Sant Adrià de Besòs) bcn.dgtl.nl

€50 / €95 (advance)

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TABLAO DE CARMEN

By Jessica Holom

An experience you won’t forget, Tablao de Carmen blends traditional Spanish food, drinks and tapas with an intimate flamenco show, all wrapped up in a venue designed like an original Andalusian theater. Opened in 1988, the space’s name combines tablao – a venue for a flamenco show, comprising guitarists, singers and dancers – with a reference to legendary Barcelona bailaora, Carmen Amaya. Evoking the often painful history of the Romani (gitano) people, flamenco is a powerful, passionate art form fueled by 32

authenticity and expression through instrument, vocals and dance. Along with an accomplished performance from top flamenco artists, expect attentive service and tapas a-plenty. The theaterrestaurant is located inside the scenic Poble Espanyol on Montjuïc hill. Come early and have a cocktail on the patio. A reservation grants you free access to the Poble, where you can take a step back in time before and after the show.

TABLAO DE CARMEN. Poble Espanyol (Montjuïc) tablaodecarmen.com

€45 / €63 / €82

ART S&C ULT URE

A NEW LIFE

By Alena Kh, azotea.es

Now that August is drawing closer, the yearning for a vacation is as thick as the foam on your beer. Nonetheless, this desire to “get away from it all” is common throughout all 12 months of the year. All around me, people hate Mondays and love Fridays; Tuesdays are bearable, Wednesdays are the halfway point of the week, and Thursdays are close to “freedom.”

It’s the same with months of the year: August are warmly welcomed (if you’re not staying in the city), but then comes the post-vacation

syndrome followed by “bloody Christmas, but at least there’s a week off.” January is the month of “I ate too much over the holidays,” February a gray spell that gives way to “finally spring, but how annoying is this pollen” and “God, it’s hot,” then vacations, and we start all over again.

As my mother says: “If you’re always in need of a vacation, maybe what you really need is a new life.” Think about it.

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FOOD &D R I N K

A PLUMA

By Suzy Taher, foodieinbarcelona.com

A Pluma is what happens when a trained chef takes on the humble concept of rotisserie chicken.

Opened by chef Eugeni de Diego, formerly of Ferran Adrià’s elBulli Lab, the concept is simple, at least in theory: locally sourced, corn-fed chicken is roasted for two hours in a Catalan-made Josper oven until the cartilage breaks down and it needs only the gentlest of nudges for the joints to yield.

But it’s the sides and desserts where the genius of this fast-but-good-food concept lies: from the peeled tomato salad with crispy onion to the 34

generously filled chicken croquettes. In addition to having been well thought-out from the start, care and concentration is applied to every dish.

The quarter pineapple dessert is arranged into alternating steps and sprinkled with lime zest and crushed mint candy; it’s a must-order. With two shops and growing, A Pluma has been met with an overwhelmingly positive response – they often sell out of chicken by early afternoon.

A PLUMA. C/ Santaló, 39 (Sant Gervasi) apluma.com

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FOOD &D R I N K

REX CAFÉ

By Ben Holbrook, driftwoodjournals.com

Tucked away in the lesser-known corner of Galvany in Sant Gervasi, within strolling distance from Gràcia, Rex Café is a suitably charming space in which to work, socialize and indulge your senses. Sink into one of the plush, red velvet chairs to start your day with specialty coffee, ham-and-cheese-stuffed croissants and tostados adorned with fresh avocado and scrumptious scrambled eggs. The excellent selection of cakes, cookies and double-choc brownies also make this a great spot for a merienda between 36

meals. And if you hang around long enough, you can explore the stellar selection of local wines and craft beers. All in all, this cool but quaint little café is the perfect antidote to the maddening summer crowds elsewhere in the city – an oasis of calm you may well want to keep to yourself.

REX CAFƒ. C/ Oliana, 24 (Sant Gervasi) instagram.com/cafederex

F O O D&DRINK

LES FILLES CAFÈ

By Suzy Taher, foodieinbarcelona.com

© Suzy Taher

There are a couple of streets in Gràcia that are endowed with more than their fair share of distinctive eateries, including Carrer de Sèneca.

From the partners behind Loup & Filles coldpressed juices, Les Filles Cafè joins them just down the street from Berbena restaurant. You enter by way of a plant-filled courtyard with linen parasols. Exceptionally well-designed, the interior is painted a deep marine blue with Nanimarquina rugs underfoot and lighting design

by The Light Squad Studio. So good-looking,

you would be forgiven for mistaking the space for a showroom. Rest assured, there is food, as the open kitchen will attest. The breakfast menu is comprised of hipster greatest hits like homemade granola with yogurt or an avocado tartine. Lunch takes a turn for the European with a good dose of Italian and lots of veggies. Meat is organic, and coffee is sourced from nearby SlowMov. Lovers of interiors will find nirvana here.

LES FILLES CAFé. C/ Minerva, 2 (Sant Gervasi) lesfillesbarcelona.com 37

FOOD &D R I N K

LA QUERIDA

By Ben Holbrook, driftwoodjournals.com

We all have those quirky queridos (loved ones) who are a bit of a nightmare to eat out with.

Some are vegan, while others will eat nothing but meat. Some seem to survive on little more than olives, while others are perennially in the mood for “something other than tapas.” And it’s moments such as these that we’re lucky to have dynamic foodie spots like La Querida, which overlooks Parc de la Ciutadella. The menu is chock full of nibbly delights like patatas bravas, nachos and hummus con crudités, while the 38

hearty burgers, pasta dishes and wok-based treats are sure to put a smile on the face of even the fussiest of eaters. And, yes, there’s plenty for vegetarians and vegans too, while the value-packed menú del día (available weekdays from 9.50 euros) is ideal for your penny-pinching lunch dates.

They also do a mean Bloody Mary, and the house special Michelada Querida is the perfect companion on a blistering summer’s day.

LA QUERIDA. Passeig de Pujades, 33 (Poblenou) facebook.com/laqueridabcn

F O O D&DRINK

BARNA-BREW

By Michael Mueller

Enjoy a refreshing take on Belgian-style beers at this brewpub in trendy Sant Antoni. Founded in 2017 by London entrepreneur Alex after a stint living in Brussels, Barna-Brew makes an award-winning range of Moreneta beers: Blonde, Blanche (white wheat) and Brune (brown). Their cuisine is no less accomplished, with dishes like grilled chicken tacos (with avo cream, crème fraîche, pico de gallo & coriander); beetroot hummus (with crème fraîche, mint honey & almonds), seabass ceviche (prepped by a Peruvian chef);

Pastrami sandwiches by The Rooftop Smokehouse; or the mighty Moreneta burger. Cool off in the aircon with their summer red ale, Sol Vermell, or chill with a cold Pils Parlament on the terrace.

Stop by on Sundays for beermut beer & tapas (the house Russian salad is delicious). Don’t miss the reopened, nearby Sant Antoni market, the city’s largest food market and Modernist iron structure, and wide-open surrounding superblock.

BARNA-BREW. C/ Parlament, 45 (Sant Antoni) barnabrew.com 39

FOOD &D R I N K

CABARET

By Eve Gabriel, instagram.com/eve__gabriel

Looking for a truly unique night filled with glamour, entertainment and surprise? Perhaps you want to plan an unforgettable experience for your friends or loved ones? Then venture to The Barcelona Edition five-star hotel, discover a hidden door descending into a clandestine world and enjoy a modern, luxury nightlife experience. The hotel’s downstairs Cabaret is Barcelona’s answer to a supper club, where all the senses are teased. The space mixes Studio 54 cofounder Ian Schrager’s creative approach 40

with the subversive side of New York and Paris. Prepare to be enticed and captivated by the thrilling live music and performances, a sophisticated but unpretentious à la carte menu and bespoke cocktails. Expect to be enchanted throughout the night by the interactive stage direction and impressive talent from the cast of artists.

CABARET. Barcelona Edition. Av. de Francesc Cambó, 14 (Born) editionhotels.com/barcelona

F O O D&DRINK

BIVIO

By Jessica Holom

Looking for Mediterranean fare near the beach?

Bivio serves up Spanish and Italian cuisine inspired by the sea itself. Enjoy a well-mixed cocktail while you sit out on the terrace alongside your dog (they’re pet friendly) and peoplewatch on sunny Passeig Joan de Borbó with the marina as a backdrop. If you’re craving local cuisine, know that the space was once home to a paella restaurant and, in honor of this heritage, offers various paella and rice dishes, including the flavorful arroz caldoso (literally “brothy rice”).

Start with tapas like croquettes, calamari, garlic shrimp, Iberian ham or patatas bravas. Grilled entrées include sea bass, beef tenderloin and a Manchego burger. Or go Italian with fresh pasta, prepared daily. For dessert try the cheesecake or the indulgent Ferrero Rocher mousse.

Bivio’s basement houses a stone wine cellar that becomes a music bar and club on weekends, with DJs every Friday and Saturday night.

BIVIO. Passeig Joan de Borbó, 60 (Barceloneta) restaurantebivio.com 41

FOOD &D R I N K

THE FISH & CHIPS SHOP

By Ben Holbrook, driftwoodjournals.com

© Aleksandra Dynas

After a night at Apolo, brothers Mani and Magic came to the crushing conclusion there was nowhere to go for their favorite post-fiesta feast. Taking matters into their own hands, the duo opened their first Fish & Chips Shop on Rocafort, elevating Britain’s signature dish with a touch of hipster inspiration. Their fresh Galician hake, delicately breaded in a smoked tempura and accompanied with seasoned potatoes, became an instant hit. Testament to the brothers’ success, they now have five locations in Barcelona, each 42

with a unique character. The Raval locale serves up seafood delights like fried anchovies, shrimp pakora and Thai prawns. The terrace at the Balmes shop is perfect for al fresco fish feasts. The new Casanova incarnation is a gluten-free chippy where purists can tuck into traditional battered cod, while the Aribau shop is a late-night affair where Mani concocts gratifying cocktails.

THE FISH & CHIPS SHOP. C/ Rocafort 70 (Sant Antoni). C/ Balmes 240 (Sant Gervasi).

C/ Aribau 18 & C/ Casanova 91 (Eixample). thefishandchipsshop.es

F O O D&DRINK

GRINGA

By Michael Mueller

Those in the know have been raving about Gringa’s California take on Mexican fare since their opening in 2018, but the space is still an undiscovered local gem. You’re likely to find one of the founders – Priscilla and Gaston (founders of the Eureka Street Food truck) or music promoter Juan – serving up great tacos, nachos and margaritas in the evening, or at their Walk of Shame Brunch at the weekend. Their Hip Hop Burger Tuesdays have become a neighborhood institution, with the taco offering replaced

by a selection of burgers, all made from locally sourced, high-quality beef and served on freshly baked brioche buns. The Compton (with cheddar, bacon, jalapeños & cilantro mayo) is a fave, as is the Cheeseburger – a steal at just 4 euros. Mix it up with July’s burger of the month: French Kiss (caramelized onions, Emmental & honey-mustard mayo with French dip). And the DJ spinning hip hop will get your ready for hump day with style.

GRINGA. C/ Lleialtat, 16 (Raval) gringa.es 43

FOOD &D R I N K

BAR CENTRO

By Claire Gledhill, albionfoodandevents.com

Not content with a burger and craft-beer formula, Bar Centro decided on a more eclectic menu.

Alongside excellent burgers – they’ve been named among the best 50 burgers in Europe by Big 7 Travel – there’s the Beef Bourguignon, a street food version of the classic French dish, or crunchy chicken topped with salad, chipotle mayo, bacon & melted cheese. The popular Monkey Burger is made with Galician D.O.-aged beef cooked over volcanic stones and served with smoked cheese, a fried egg, onion rings & Siracha 44

mayo. The BBQ pulled pork sandwich is rivaled by a “ceviched” version macerated in lime, onion & cilantro. The international array of dishes encompassing tacos, tequeños, onion rings, shrimp gyozas, bravas, fried chicken or chili con carne means no one goes hungry if burgers are not your thing.

Wash it down with a craft beer from one of eight taps, natural wine or organic cocktail. The space itself a welcome escape from the touristy center.

BAR CENTRO. C/ Casp, 55 (Eixample Dreta) barcentrobcn.es

F O O D&DRINK

DR. BEER & MR. FRIED

By Jessica Holom

With a name like Dr. Beer & Mr. Fried, you know what you’re getting when you walk into this trendy fried chicken joint on Raval. A champion of craft beer and fried food, the new arrival draws inspiration from US-style cajun and creole cuisine. Featuring a limited menu, Dr. Beer & Mr. Fried shoots for quality over quantity. Chicken is marinated for 24 hours before being fried up and served. Whether you’re hankering for hand-cut fries and your favorite house sauce, a smoked tofu burger, or a deli-

cious combo of chicken and waffles, you won’t go hungry here. And you won’t go thirsty either.

At 5 or 6 euros each, you can choose from “mule” cocktails (Moscow Mule, Kentucky Mule…) or craft beer, including this month’s featured local brews from Edge Brewing and Garage Beer Co. DR. BEER & MR. FRIED. C/ Riera Alta, 33–35 (Raval) drbeerandmrfried.com instagram.com/drbeerandmrfried 45

FOOD &D R I N K

CARAVELLE

By Sophie Cameron, sophie-cameron.com

“Why buy it if you can make it?” Such is the philosophy at Caravelle, a creative café and restaurant on Pintor Fortuny. The brainchild of Zim and Poppy, an Australian-British couple who owned gastropubs in London before coming to Barcelona, this place pairs a minimalist, seemingly effortless style with a varied American-European menu based on homemade ingredients.

Hot sauces, jam, ice cream, cola, craft beer… it’s all made from scratch, and it all tastes amazing.

The menu changes seasonally, but must-tries have 46

included the mouthwatering fried chicken, slowcooked carnitas tacos, double cheeseburger or salmon poké bowl. The Full Spanglish brunch (available in veggie form too) will make your weekend – pair it with a flat white from the La Marzocco machine. It’s never too early for Caravelle’s own craft beer – Galactic pale ale, Mixtape New-World Pilsner, Midnight IPA, or many more – all brewed onsite with brewmaster Ben. CARAVELLE. C/ Pintor Fortuny, 31 (Raval) caravelle.es

F O O D&DRINK

RAÓ

By Aimee Lawrence, facebook.com/amethyst.promo

The highly rated Raó, located close to Place Catalunya, has established itself as a must-visit for its gourmet tapas and platillos (medium-size dishes perfect for sharing). “Raó” in Catalan translates to “reason” and three of those underpin what this dining hotspot offers. Locally sourced and seasonal products are favored to create modern delights based on a selection of Mediterranean and traditional local dishes; the restaurant is a stylish, cozy space located in one of the most emblematic streets of the city; and experienced,

energetic staff are on hand to give you the kind of fulfilling service that ensures that you’ll be back to devour more. An open kitchen reveals chefs dishing up and serving local favorites like grilled octopus, Spanish tortilla with truffle sauce, panseared scallops with cauliflower purée, free-range duck breast, red mullet with foie gras and many more, including several plant-based options.

RAî. C/ Sitges, 3 (Raval) Open: Mon–Sat 7pm–11pm raobcn.com | instagram.com/raobcn 47

FOOD &D R I N K BRUNCH & CAKE. The Brunch & Cake (formerly Cup & Cake) group have evolved with the times and are now as much famed for their superfood smoothies, healthy salads and American-style brunch as for their velvet cupcakes. Their shop on Enric Granados and Paris (the group’s first) has expanded its menu and become a buzzing lunch stop, offering “make your own salads” with 20+ healthy ingredients to choose from: gluten-free grains like quinoa or buckwheat noodles, protein sources such as organic turkey, tofu or salmon plus fruits and veggies and homemade dressing – all available to-go too. They also serve veggie burgers, vegan bowls, gourmet sandwiches, breakfast and brunch. Finish with an El Magnífico coffee and cupcake made with no refined sugars. Bliss! ♣ Open: daily 9am–8pm. C/ Enric Granados, 145 (Eixample) f L3/L5 (Diagonal) brunchandcake.com PACO ALCALDE. When looking for a restaurant in the seaside neighborhood of Barceloneta, it’s good to search the side streets for places like this. Founded in 1921, this storied restaurant specializes in seafood, with a third-generation of family owners who buy daily from local suppliers – monkfish, wild sea bass, lobster, oysters, octopus, shrimp and more. Their specialties include Seafood Paella, Arróz Negro (black rice with squid ink), Prawns with Lemon or Garlic, and Fried Baby Squid (chipirones). They also serve traditional tapas like Iberian ham, pan con tomate and desserts such as Crema Catalana. There’s a good selection of local wines. The rustic interior harkens back to a traditional fishermen restaurant. Private area for groups. ♣ Open: daily 1pm–5pm & 8pm–12am C/ Almirall Aixada, 12 (Barceloneta) f L4 (Barceloneta) g 93 221 50 26 pacoalcalderestaurante.com 48

© Pol Rebaque

VEGAN BOWLS. When Manex, founder of Brunch & Cake, met Jake, author of the Vegan Bowls for Vegan Souls cookbook and Coconut Bowls entrepreneur, they bonded over a shared passion for travel, food and health.

This spring they transformed Brunch &

Cake’s shop on Tallers into a healthy fast-food takeaway joint. From their açai bowls and smoothies to their plantbased Mito Supersandwich, served up plastic-free, Vegan Bowls call on the best of nature’s bounty­, all cruelty-free and sustainably-sourced. Rest-assured, they

still make use of the group’s bakery, with cupcakes, sweet pretzels and bread now plant-based for everybody’s enjoyment. ♣ Open: daily 10am–9pm.

C/ Tallers, 79 (Raval) fL1/L2 (Universitat) instagram.com/veganbowlsbarcelona

49

INNO VATI O N

DEPOT LAB Jessica Holom

Forget the soulless feel of some of the city’s shared office spaces. Located on the border of Gràcia and Eixample, Depot Lab draws on the original spirit of coworking: an informal vibe, open environment and a sociable community.

Launched in 2016 by Dutch national Renzo and Andorra native Deborah, the founders are an intricate part of the Depot Lab culture. They promote events, activities and offer Depot Help for freelancers, entrepreneurs and startups, including assistance in everything from acquiring insurance 50

or an NIE tax number to hiring talent and securing financing. They also operate a larger space of private offices near the Joanic Metro. Built on the pillars of “honesty, authenticity, inspiration, innovation, enjoyment, creativity, collaboration and, of course Dutch sobriety,” the 600 m2 space is much more than just a workspace – it’s a community.

Follow them on social media to stay abreast of upcoming events, including summer parties.

DEPOT LAB. C/ Bruc, 149 (Eixample Dreta) depotlabbcn.com

from €99 monthly

F IT NESS&WELLNESS HOLMES PLACE. This premium brand of fitness, wellness and spa clubs has four exclusive locations in Barcelona.

Their motto is “Make health and fitness enjoyable.” They encourage their members to be more active in every sense of the word as they enjoy the journey of a healthy life. The clubs are known for their excellent instructors and personal trainers who – following their motto – aim to help their members perform activities that they enjoy, in a setting they enjoy and with someone they enjoy. Visit their website to find out about their free offers and experiences. ♣ Open: Mon–Fri 7am–11pm, Sat 9am– 8pm, Sun 10am–8pm g 902 30 22 00 holmesplace.es facebook.com/HolmesPlaceEs

MANDIRAM. Studio owners Gordana and Gloria know that city life can leave people with little time to exercise. They run “urban yoga” centers that provide students with spaces “to disconnect to connect.” Their style is Hatha Vinyasa, intense and dynamic, and unlike in other styles that tend toward the dogmatic, Mandiram encourages personalized learning, embracing the variety offered by their instructors. Try a class for just €5 at the beautiful space at Plaça Urquinaona or other studios in Gràcia and Poblenou. Mandiram also organize workshops such aas introduction to yoga as well as teacher trainings. ♣ Plaça Urquinaona 1, 1–5 (Eixample) f L1/L4 (Urquinaona) g 93 301 02 04.

C/ Torrent de l’Olla, 172 (Gràcia) f L3 (Fontana) g 93 237 61 80.

C/ Roc Boronat, 114 (Poblenou) f L1 (Glòries) g 93 015 35 37. yogaenmandiram.com 51

STYLE&D E SI G N

KLAP

By Eve Gabriel, instagram.com/eve__gabriel

Close to the bustling energy of MACBA and the surrounding streets of the Raval sits a wellregarded streetwear and concept store known as KLAP. Born in 2016 and inspired by relationships and the desire for artistic collaboration, KLAP has established itself as a clothing brand that celebrates a cultural openness. Respected by skateboarders, fashion enthusiasts and anyone in between or further afield, KLAP captures the true meaning of a conceptual business with their continual renewal of brand collaborations, local 52

events and creative family atmosphere. With their increasingly popular clothing logos The North Raval and 08001 (Raval’s postcode), it’s likely you’ll have passed someone in the center representing the growing community of the KLAP brand. Follow their Facebook page to stay on track with the upcoming happenings at the shop, which range from live DJ sets and brand launch parties to the occasional cheese and wine night.

KLAP. C/ Lleó, 28 (Raval) klapshop.com

STYLE&DESIGN

MISS KLECKLEY STORE

By Eve Gabriel, instagram.com/eve__gabriel

Born in 2014, Miss Kleckley Store was the first concept store in Barcelona to offer an exclusive selection of clothing and accessories from unique brands such as Lazy Oaf, The Ragged Priest, Skinnydip London and Motel Rocks – to name a few. Located in Sant Antoni, the store is the perfect escape to hunt for something special under the enchantment of its ultra-cute dÊcor, with neon pink lighting, tiled flooring and clothing racks hung from the ceiling.

Further indulge in your shopping experience by

booking a nail appointment at the in-store nail bar, transforming visions of your favorite drawings or designs into modern nail art. So from shopping for unique brands to leaving with a fresh new set of arty nails, Miss Kleckley Store deserves a visit.

MISS KLECKLEY STORE. C/ Parlament, 15 (Sant Antoni) misskleckley.com 53

MU SI C

CURTIS AUDIOPHILE CAFE

By Yvonne Mannix, yvonnesedition.tumblr.com

Even though there are plenty of bars that have DJs, it isn’t easy to find somewhere with good sound. Curtis Audiophile Cafe have bucked this trend with their custom-designed sound system and some of the best audio equipment in the city. It’s obvious that this place is run by real aficionados from the moment you walk in past their small selection of records on sale, past the DJ booth and the listening points where you can try albums before you buy, to the spacious area at the back. Equipment isn’t enough in itself 54

to make a venue good, and the right DJ lineup is equally essential. Not a problem here, where regular events like Selectah, It’s Playtime, The Welcome Sessions and Beats & Rhymes & Life rotate each month alongside guest nights like the recent Legacy, which saw Balearic legend Phil Mison grace the decks. Whether you want to get down there and dance, geek out over the audio setup – or both – satisfaction is guaranteed.

CURTIS AUDIOPHILE CAFE. C/ Mallorca, 196 (Eixample) curtisaudiocafe.com

Jul 19 (release) |

MUSIC

LA TORRE IBIZA – VOLUMEN TRES

By Matthew Duffield, matthewsedition.tumblr.com

Forget glitter, glamour and superclubs, the true spirit of the Ibiza – the Balearic spirit – is one of sun, sea and nature; hedonism, but quiet moments also, and timeless music not fettered by genre. Mark Barrott and Pete Gooding, two of the island’s DJs championing the Balearic vibe, have compiled La Torre Ibiza – Volumen Tres, the third installment in the series from the hotel of the same name. La Torre is located in Cap Negret on a beautiful cliff close to San Antoni, where you’re as likely to find yoga classes as hear

eclectic music. It’s been two years since Volumen Dos, but who cares when the guys have put together 15 tracks as good as these. All different but all special in their own right, from tracks by Lambchop and Swing Out Sister to Tears for Fears as re-imagined by Barrott and Malcolm McLaren’s magical “Obatala.” Whether you’re visiting Ibiza this summer or not, this album will transport you there. latorreibiza.com 55

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Poble Sec music 1. Apolo concert venue & nightclub

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Sant Antoni innovation 1. MOB&PAU coworking

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Raval music 1. BARTS concert venue & nightclub

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arts&culture 2. CCCB cultural center 6

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food&drink 3. Caravelle tapas, brunch, burgers & craft beer 4. Dr. Beer & Mr. Fried Cajun chicken & craft beer 5. Gringa Mexican, brunch & burgers 6. Raรณ Spanish platillos 7. Trรณpico fusion brunch 8. Vegan Bowls plant-based style&design 9. KLAP boutique

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music 2. Curtis Audiophile Cafe 54 cafĂŠ & record shop

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fitness&wellness 3. Holmes Place gyms 4. Mandiram yoga innovation 5. Depot Lab coworking 6. MOB coworking

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food&drink 7. Bar Centro burgers & craft beer 8. Brunch & Cake brunch & plant-based 9. The Fish & Chips Shop seafood

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