Fashion Writing Editorial Critical Journal

Fashion Writing Editorial Critical Journal Millie Bailey C3570333 Word Count: 1,487 Link: https://issuu.com/millliebailey/docs/vogue_wellness_copy

1

VOGUE

WELLNESS

Contents Page

Chapter One: A Historical Perspective (Page 3) - History of fashion magazines - Technological Advances - Feminism Chapter Two: Rationale / Reflection (Page 4) - Reflective Learning - Content Analysis - Cover & Layout Analysis Chapter Three: Editorial & Marketing (Page 5) - Marketing of the project - Readership Analysis - Social & Print Media Bibliography (Pages 6-9)

2

Chapter One: A Historical Perspective The early magazines emerged in the eighteenth century which is still an exciting, fashion resource we use today.

An original definition of magazine: from (Whittaker, 2016) as “a store for a variety of goods.” (Garvey, 1996) Expands on the definition of magazine as a “reframed task of shopping as luxurious and eminently pleasurable pursuit.” Of which included short and informal essays from a gentleman’s perspective covering topics of fashion, literacy, politics, and religion such as “The Spectator” soon became an established component of eighteenth-century literacy and political journalism. However, this publication did not stay around long due to the rapidly changing market and economy. These early magazines were expensive to produce, therefore giving the magazines a sense of exclusivity as a luxury item purchased by those of wealth. By the nineteenth century the Linotype Machine was invented in 1886 which produced multiple lines of text at a time. This printing technique of lithography was cheaper and easier way to produce the magazines. Moving to the twentieth century, mass media had risen meaning that the physical format of magazines from the early 1900s are like modern publications we know and love today. This is due to the developments in design such as the incorporation of technology and the contribution of modernism to the field of design.

With the rise of mass media, in 1928 “Slicks” were established, which were known for their glossy pages such as Vogue, aimed for more affluent readers, from a wealthy background. What can be argued as the “golden age” of magazine publishing, emerged from the 1920 into the 1950s which were published in increasing numbers on low grade “pulp” paper at lower expenses which enabled people to start new magazines (Whittaker, 2016).

Following this inclusion, the digital revolution began which can be described as responsible for the birth of Photojournalism. Cameras started to be made smaller in 1920s in line with a growing demand for the first magazines to regularly include photography were established. As magazines became easier to produce more niche publications began connecting with a wider range of audiences “their varied content opens numerous avenues for critical investigation, and their real and imagined target audiences lead to a considerable range of cultural and social modes of understanding. (Forster, 2015). People today are consuming more media now than ever before, fashion coverage is produced, financed, and consumed in diverse ways than before with the use of social media, influencers and bloggers which have ways of communicating and raising issues of gender, ethnicity, and politics with an element of interaction which have the capacity to reach large audiences which can land on their websites and social medias multiple times a day as well as products and services noted by (Garvey, 1996).

Consumer magazines in the editorial market such as women’s magazines have offered advice, information, companionship, and inspiration and many have concomitantly offered a persuasive image of reactionary, conservative femininity into the bargain (Forster, 2015). During the first wave of feminism, suffragettes and liberation groups were producing official organs or newsletters to promote oppositional political ideas to the most known male perception of the ‘happy housewife heroine’ ideology from magazines such as The Feminine Mystique (Forster, 2015).

Later twentieth-century magazines such as Women’s Own and Cosmopolitan promote more positive identities for women. Modern magazines face challenges regarding ad agencies, which were first established during the 1890s, very quickly saw the appeal of new graphic formats, employing slogans, photography, and bold imagery to grab the attention of consumers... Successful magazine designers are often those who had worked for advertisers, and fullpage display advertising became the norm so editorial pages had to be more innovative to compete for the reader’s attention.” (Whittaker, 2016).

1.1 The Spectator

1.2 Vogue 1920s 3

Chapter Two: Rationale / Reflection At the beginning of this project, I did not have any insight into fashion writing, particularly in the editorial sector.

Through academic reading and attending lectures I am now aware of different publications, writing styles and voices, also of current marketing models to bring physical publications into the digital world. Reflective learning considers the value, cultural, emotional, and interactive contexts to enable development which is essential for deep and significant learning. Therefore, to remain engaged and actively learning I have done a lot of market research by purchasing and reading different magazines to put myself in the readers’ shoes and what personally interests me as a reader in addition to what is missing from the market, to improve my understanding of the module using single loop learning. From (Kolb, 2014), ‘Active experimental learning is a powerful ingredient to produce a more effective learning process”, in my learning process as I have tried out what I have learnt from different Vogue and wellness magazines and explored multiple perspectives to produce my own content.

From intensive research into the market, I wanted to target an audience which I would place myself in and something I would reach for myself in an overcrowded supermarket magazine stand. Today we are in a world where responsibility matters, and many people feel good from making conscious choices. Therefore, as a novice in this sector I saw a gap for Vogue to introduce an informative yet stylish edit for readers aged 16-50. The reason the target audience is so wide is down to sustainability and wellness being a new and current lifestyle trend that anyone can adopt. I chose Vogue because Vogue is fortunate in the sense that they have a loyal audience and amongst those, there will be a sub-culture of collectables (of physical copies) which cannot be achieved online. As Vogue has the same voice and style, brands who are using various influencers have different voices and it is not guaranteed to please all their audience. Authenticity is important to connect with the audience, Anna Wintour (American Vogue, editor-in-chief) declared “...we should be as engaged and as vocal as our readers” (Bradford, 2020) which explains Vogue’s reigning success in the crowded market.

1.3 Anna Wintour

The layout of the magazine follows the classic style of Vogue with the same fonts used and the cover image has been specifically chosen as it has many elements featuring of what I have included in the content such as, the sustainable swim trend, boosted beverages (such as organic wine), and the colours reflect a classic representation of wellness. (Garvey, 1996) outlines the how the magazine layouts of narrative and information are fragmented by advertising pages to break up the stories to draw the attention of the readers, using the “moment-by- multiple focus” … the multiple focus in both two and three-dimensional space it used in department stores and catalogues for example to help naturalise one another for the viewers or readers. Vogue’s editor Hamish Bowles argued that: “I would say that advertising and editorial complement each other. Fashion is all about creating desire, both advertisers and editors want to seduce the consumer that is our job.” Although, it can be argued that fashion journalism has been hijacked by the visuals. (Best, 2018). The visuals and ads make the edit more enjoyable as it reflects the individual brands’ ethos as well as making the magazine more aesthetically pleasing.

1.4 Vogue Runway 4

Chapter Three: Editorial & Marketing To promote my magazine, I will use both print and digital techniques to maximus the reach of my audience. (Best, 2017) features how Vogue Paris pointed out on the relaunch of the brand’s website: “The print version will always remain a platform for the expression of creativity and inspiration while the site remains above all else a new and information outlet”. Taking information from this, due to changing consumer habits digital platforms such as social media creates a wider exposure of their voice in the competitive market. (Best, 2017) also outlines that online article tend to be shorter than those in print, due to time efficiency of publication and the reading format such as smart phones although online platforms offer a wider range of opportunities to present information. British Vogues readership is of those between 20 and 40 years old, who are actively using social media platforms such as Instagram. (Shinkle, 2013) highlights how digital marketing today holds immense value on a ‘cross-media platform experience’ which is immersive and creates a feeling of interactivity, from fashion catwalks now being known to be watched on Instagram lives and YouTube, and virtual reality try on features from brands such as Burberry. (Best, 2017) also points out an argument of “content” being a term relating to editorial and paid-for-posts such as ads in-between articles or PR and paid influencers for promotional purposes which many not come across as authentic to a loyal Vogue reader, supported by (British Vogue, 2017)- “in the main, magazines are still creating the strongest images and articles around (please let us not bundle them as “content”)”. Nevertheless, social media is a huge aspect of most people’s lives now in particular Vogue’s target audience therefore the Vogue Wellness magazine created will post previews content in line with the website and physical print as can be shown below.

1.5 Vogue Wellness Instagram

1.6 Vogue Wellness Print 5

Bibliography: Critical Journal References:

Image References:

Bradford, J. (2020) Fashion journalism. Second edn. Abingdon, Oxon: Routledge. Available 1.1 Pixels (2016) Addison The Spectator [Online Image] Available from: at: <https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/leeds-beck/detail.action?docID=5988925> (Ac- <https://pixels.com/featured/addison-the-spectator-granger.html> (Accessed: May 27, 2022). cessed: May 27, 2022) Best, K. (2017) The history of fashion journalism. London: Bloomsbury Academic, an im1.2 Bookemon (2014) Vogue 1920 [Online Image] Available from: <https:// print of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. Available at: <http://dx.doi.org/10.5040/9781474279741> www.bookemon.com/book-profile/vogue-1920/395373> (Accessed: May 27, (Accessed: May 27, 2022).

2022) Forster, L. (2015) Magazine movements : women’s culture, feminisms and media form. New York: Bloomsbury Academic. Available at: I< https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/leedsbeck/detail.action?docID=2003618> (Accessed: May 27, 2022).

1.3 Wikipedia (2019) Anna Wintour [Online Image] Available from:<https:// en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anna_Wintour#/media/File:Anna_Wintour_2019_ crop.jpg> (Accessed: May 27, 2022)

Garvey, E. G. (1996) The adman in the parlor : magazines and the gendering of consumer culture, 1880s to 1910s. New York: Oxford University Press (OUP E-Books). Available at: < https://oxford-universitypressscholarship-com.leedsbeckett.idm.oclc.org/view/10.1093/ acprof:oso/9780195108224.001.0001/acprof-9780195108224> (Accessed: May 27, 2022).

1.4 AppAdvice (2022) [Online Image] Available from:<https://appadvice.com/ app/vogue-runway-fashion-shows/289380413> (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Images Edited in InDesign:

Keeble, R. (2005) Print journalism: a critical induction Routledge. Chapter 6: Practice and 1.5 Vogue (2022) Instagram screenshot @vogue [Online Image] Available Theory. Available from: <https://www-vlebooks-com.leedsbeckett.idm.oclc.org/Product/In- from:<https://www.instagram.com/vogue/?hl=en> (Accessed: May 27, 2022) dex/491485?page=0> (Accessed: May 27, 2022).

1.6 iStock [Online Image] Available from:<https://www.istockphoto.com/ Kolb, D. A. (2014) Experiential Learning : experience as the source of learning and develsearch/2/image?mediatype=illustration&phrase=magazine> (Accessed: May opment. Second edn. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey: Pearson Education. Available at: <https://www-vlebooks-com.leedsbeckett.idm.oclc.org/Product/Index/836843?page=0> 27, 2022) (Accessed: May 27, 2022).

Shinkle, E. (2008), ‘Video Games, Emotion, and the Six Senses’, Media, Culture and Society, 30/6: 907–15. Available from: < https://web-p-ebscohost-com.leedsbeckett.idm. oclc.org/ehost/detail/detail?vid=0&sid=12b328b7-23e2-4c19-9479-b87083c0c81e%40redis&bdata=JkF1dGhUeXBlPWlwLGF0aGVucyZzaXRlPWVob3N0LWxpdmUmc2NvcGU9c2l0ZQ%3d%3d#AN=3036481&db=buh> (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Whittaker, J (2016) Magazine Production, second edition, Routledge (Media Skills). Available from: <https://www-vlebooks-com.leedsbeckett.idm.oclc.org/Product/Index/65039?page=0> (Accessed: May 27, 2022).

6

Bibliography: Magazine Images Page 11: Cover Image: Away That Day (2022) Palma Top [Online Image] Available from:<https://awaythatday. Weekday (2022) Structured Bikini Top [Online Image] Available from:<https:// com/collections/new-in-1/products/palma-top-chartreuse> (Accessed: May 27, 2022) www.weekday.com/en_gbp/women/swimwear/tops/product.structured-bikini-top-green.1074146002.html > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Page 1: Stella McCartney (2022) Women’s New Season [Online Image] Available from:<https://Weekday (2022) Brazilian Bikini Bottoms [Online Image] Available from:<h https:// www.stellamccartney.com/gb/en/women/ready-to-wear/new-arrivals> (Accessed: May www.weekday.com/en_gbp/women/swimwear/bottoms/product.brazilian-bikini-bottom-sand-purple.1061762001.html> (Accessed: May 27, 2022) 27, 2022) Weekday (2022) Printed Trangle Bikini Top [Online Image] Available from:< https:// Page 2: www.weekday.com/en_gbp/women/swimwear/tops/product.printed-triangle-bikiStella McCartney (2022) Cut Out Jumpsuit [Online Image] Available from:<https:// www.stellamccartney.com/gb/en/women/summer-2022-collection/cut%E2%80%90out- ni-top-orange.1088736001.html > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) jumpsuit-6K0099S20764604.html> (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Away That Day (2022) Santorini Sarong [Online Image] Available from:<h https:// Stick PNG (2022) Stella McCartney Logo [Online Image] Available from:<http://www. awaythatday.com/collections/new-in-1/products/santorini-sarong-red > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) stickpng.com/img/download/5842a0b2a6515b1e0ad75af1> (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Cult Beauty (2022) Claudaile Vinosun [Online Image] Available from:< https://www.cultbeauty.co.uk/caudalie-vinosun-very-high-protection-lightweight-cream-40ml/13524487.html?affil=thggpsad&switchcurrency=GBP&shippingcountry=GB&affil=thggps&gclid=Cj0KCQjwm6KUBhC3ARIsACIwxBgtLm4ImaHMUk1r3VG9iMZq3ZtUdm0seVLjLGIi7ikH36hTUB6opEMaAj-oEALw_wcB&gclsStick PNG (2022) Stella McCartney Logo [Online Image] Available from:<http://www. rc=aw.ds > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) stickpng.com/img/download/5842a0b2a6515b1e0ad75af1> (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Lyst (2022) Pangaia Cotton Jersey Slippers [Online Image] Available from:< https:// www.lyst.co.uk/shoes/pangaia-jersey-slippers-5/?product=EBTMWTF&link_ Pages 5&6: Burberry (2022) Environment [Online Image] Available from:<https://www.burberry- id=816760497&_country=GB&size=EU+35-36&show_express_checkout=true&atc_ medium=cpc&atc_content=UK-PLA-PANGAIA%2BFlats-Clothing%2B%2526%2BAcplc.com/en/responsibility/environment.html> (Accessed: May 27, 2022) cessories%2B%253E%2BShoes%2B%253E%2BSandals%2B%253E%2BThongs%2B%2526%2BFlip%2BFlops-CSS%2BVacherin-no&atc_country=UK&atc_ Page 7: Vice Digital (2022) Weekday launched newest sustainable collection “Remains” [On- source=google&atc_grouping=Google-PLA-EXPRESS&atc_campaign=UK-PLA-EXline Image] Available from:<http://material-magazine.com/weekday-launched-new- PRESS&atc_type=pla&sem_id=A4418237827&gclid=Cj0KCQjwm6KUBhC3ARIsACIwxBiYUmXSfrkjz2zvvnaczjqm_3tIpvEaQYcvmQpnDpXVCF2Wy2Im7FkaApest-sustainable-collection-remains/> (Accessed: May 27, 2022) zyEALw_wcB&paid_session_id=b14db573-db00-4f5e-9576-bff461cfe52c > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Page 10: Vestaire Collective (2022) But why does it need to change? [Online Image] Available from:< https://fashion-sustainability-report.vestiairecollective.com/fashion-sustainability-report-2022/vestiaire-collective-is-transforming-fashion> (Accessed: May 27, 2022) 7 Pages 3&4: Milled (2020) Gucci Off The Grid [Online Image] Available from:<https://milled.com/ gucci-uk/climb-in-the-city-treehouse-with-gucci-off-the-grid-BSDBrrrLF8bf2toU > (Accessed: May 27, 2022)

Bibliography: Page 12: Page 16: Vogue Au (2021) Beach Please [Online Image] Available from:< https://www.vogue.

Trip CBD Infused (2022) Trip [Online Image] Available from:< https://drink-trip.com/ com.au/fashion/news/beach-please-6-swim-labels-youll-want-to-live-in-this-summer/ products/elderflower-mint > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) image-gallery/0a4d77321e9f26f7b77277db48d2d535 > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Own Image (2022) Paris Page 13: Own Image (2022) Notting Hill Bonterra (2022) Merlot [Online Image] Available from:< https://www.bonterra.com/ tasting-notes/merlot/ > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) PurePng (2022) Blueberries [Online Image] Available from:< https://purepng.com/ photo/13862/food-blueberries > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Pages 17&18: Patter (2022) Label to love Lido [Online Image] Available from:< https://www.patterPage 14: london.com/label-to-love-lido > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) PurePng (2022) Spinnach [Online Image] Available from:< https://pngimg.com/image/79155 > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Marnisel (2022) Swimsuit Otto [Online Image] Available from:< https://marinsel.ch/ shop/Lido-Swimsuit-Otto-Black_1 > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) PurePng (2022) Orange Juice [Online Image] Available from:< https://pngimg.com/ image/7183 > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Page 19: Own Image (2022) London iStock (2022) Chilli Flakes [Online Image] Available from:< https://www.istockphoto.com/photo/chilli-flakes-scattered-over-white-background-top-viewOwn Image (2022) Harrogate gm1147423048-309500200 > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Stickpng (2022) Coffee Beans [Online Image] Available from:< http://www.stickpng.

Own Image (2022) Leeds com/img/food/coffee/coffee-beans > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Page 15: Page 20: Remedy (2022) Remedy Drinks [Online Image] Available from:< https://www.remedy- Packaging Of The World (2020) Larry’s Coffee [Online Image] Available from:< drinks.com/us > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) https://packagingoftheworld.com/2020/10/larrys-coffee.html > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Equinox (2022) Equinox Kombucha [Online Image] Available from:< https:// shop.equinoxkombucha.com/products/equinox-kombucha-create-your-own?variant=18146561523763&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvqeUBhCBARIsAOdt45bgiI13I0PIgJ18HZfe83IVE8C9EfP-hS6BOsnrl8Zmc_RYGfO3HBUaArl-EALw_wcB > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Own Image (2022) Leeds

Café Mam (2020) 16oz Valve Bags [Online Image] Available from:< https://cafemam. com/products/special-bag-product > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) WatchHouse (2020) Larry’s Coffee [Online Image] Available from:< https://watchhouse.com/collections/all > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Lucy Barden Photography (2020) Farrer’s Tea&Coffee [Online Image] Available from:< https://www.lucybarden.co.uk/project/farrers > (Accessed: May 27, 2022)

8

Bibliography: Pages 21&22: Jyoti (2022) Creolen CHAITANYA [Online Image] Available from:< https://jyoti-fairworks.org/shop/creolen-chaitanya/ > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Pages 23&24: Own Images (2022) London, Notting Hill & BrickLane Page 25: Own Image (2022) Leeds Raywear (2022) Tabac Tea Spoon [Online Image] Available from:< https://www.rayware.co.uk/0302926-tabac-teaspoon-180/ > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Page 26: Press(2022) Barista Edition Oat Milk [Online Image] Available from:< https:// press-london.com/products/oat-milk?variant=39440954228778&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvqeUBhCBARIsAOdt45YtWUHO7-Nj1ZLdTDlJSP6v6QBMTG5ziagv-cuCmrIo292OsBnem9waAqmpEALw_wcB > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Keifir (2022) Cheese and Yogurt [Online Image] Available from:< https://cheeseandyogurt.co.uk/products/kefir-culture-for-making-kefir?variant=35992269652124&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvqeUBhCBARIsAOdt45ZxW-dTlwi7fLSHJ8dH_sfJnl3KIR53niLmJdcR5qt2Dr-4ELVuVOUaAsPiEALw_wcB> (Accessed: May 27, 202 Iconic London (2022) Ultimate Skin Serum[Online Image] Available from:< https:// row.iconiclondoninc.com/products/ultimate-skin-serum > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Pages 27&28: @aestheticsbyemily (2021) Instagram [Online Image] https://www.instagram.com/p/ CRzH7VXj_gS/ > (Accessed: May 27, 2022) Page 29: Away That Day (2022) RioTop [Online Image] Available from:<h https://awaythatday.com/products/rio-top-chartreuse?pr_prod_strat=copurchase&pr_rec_ id=24568494f&pr_rec_pid=7482379501807&pr_ref_pid=7482382745839&pr_seq=uniform> (Accessed: May 27, 2022)

9

Appendices: Week 1:

Week 3: Pitching

Search for mainstream and independent magazines and newspapers to broaden your awareness of existing publications.

Women’s Health Magazine UK Mainstream magazines: Esquire Magazine, Elle, Vogue, Harper’s Bazar, i-D Magazine, Icon Magazine, Vanity Fair, Wellbeing Magazine, Women’s Health, Breathe, Healthy Magazine.

Week 2: familiar with The Guardian’s online style guide as a prime example of what such a tool can contain: https://www.theguardian.com/guardian-observer-style-guide-a

30 Panton Street, Leicester Square, London, SW1Y 4AJ Subject Line: Exclusive Theoretical Article submission: Reaching Out to Editors Hi Claudia Canavan, I hope you are well! My name is Millie Bailey. I am a second year Fashion Marketing student with a passion for Fashion Editorial Writing. I have authored an exclusive promotional article for Women’s Health. This article is on the topic of fermented foods with an aim to raise a better understanding and awareness of their health benefits.

I have chosen to Sister Title the magazine Vogue for my project. The publication will In this article, I highlight studies and findings into the health benefits of these fermented foods be named Vogue Wellness. The types of pieces that I am thinking of including are and a top tips section of the article of how people can introduce this into their diet and lifestyle. trends such as; Skincare and self-care top tips Vitamins and Nutrition, inc. Fermented foods, tonic herbs, CBD oil Mindfulness, affirmations, manifestation, gratitude, horoscopes Yoga Athleisure and yoga clothing as advertisements, brands such as Adanola, lululemon Interview- Trinity Tondeleir – The Wellness Café Podcast The overall aesthetic of the Vogue Wellness is going to have a colour palette of wellness related colours WGSN reports show that wellness colours: restful pastels, balancing greens, tonal earthy neutrals, radiant oranges.

I think this article would fit perfectly in your magazine as it will help your readers to have more insight into this topic area which you have already featured in a few issues from what I have seen, my article includes exclusive recipes for your readers to try out for themselves giving them an interactive and personal connection to your magazine.

The article can be ready for you within 5 days of acceptance from acceptance. Let me know if there is anything else you need.

Have a great week!

Millie Bailey Phone: 07740050372 I want to include images created in CAD suites to make the magazine bright, vibrant, Email: milliebailey@yahoo.com

and professional. The background with predominantly white and the main text colour to be black. No black and white images. Images of products.

For the layout I will follow the current layout and aesthetic of the Vogue magazine to keep in line with the brand as a Sister Title.

10

Moodboards Image links: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/millie6674/wellness-magazine/