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of St. Vincent & The Grenadines

Hairouna

Land of the

Blessed

|

2016

Ins & Outs


pristine

perfect priceless

Land of the Blessed

Come see for yourself . . .

St. Vincent & The Grenadines Hotel and Tourism Association P.O. Box 2125, Kingstown, St. Vincent & The Grenadines W 路 www.svghotels.com T 路 784.458.4379 F 路 784.456.4456 E 路 svghotels@vincysurf.com


Ins & Outs

of St. Vincent & the Grenadines 2016 An Essential Guide to St. Vincent | Bequia | Mustique | Canouan | Mayreau Tobago Cays | Palm Island | Petit St. Vincent | Union Island

Ins & Outs is the Official Publication of the St. Vincent & the Grenadines Hotel & Tourism Association

PUBLISHED ANNUALLY BY Miller Publishing Company Limited

PROJECT MANAGER/EDITOR Christine Wilkie

ADVERTISING SALES Christine Wilkie Liz Cordice Sally Miller

PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Janelle Bryan

Cover

On our The Bird

Amazona guildingii, the St. Vincent parrot, is our own native parrot and the country’s national bird. Adults are about 16 inches long and, though no two birds are alike, there are two distinct morphs, the yellow-brown and the green; this one displays the lovely green, yellow and blue of the SVG flag. These noisy parrots, whose calls include yapping, honking, shrieking, bubbling and squawking, live in St. Vincent’s verdant rainforests where they feed in the canopy on fruits, flowers and seeds. The Vincy parrot was, until the 1980s, considered on the verge of extinction, victims of habitat loss and trapping for “Amazona guildingii” the pet trade. Though it still qualifies as vulnerable on the Red List of threatened species, thanks to public education campaigns, government legislation and the establishment of the St. Vincent Parrot reserve, there are now estimated to be over 500 individuals in the wild. One of the very best places to chance seeing them is the Vermont Nature Trail on St. Vincent’s leeward side.

The Artist L.D. Lucy, artist and curator of Bequia’s Oasis Art Gallery (see pages 92 and 93) has been taunted by honking and squawking on several walks in Vermont’s forest but has yet to see Amazona guildingii in the wild. In response she created a series of parrot paintings, portraying how she imagines seeing them in the trees. Here, one roosts at twilight high above the steep callaloo fields and the gentle slopes of the Emerald Valley. Miller Publishing Co. Ltd. Edgehill, St. Thomas, BB22118, BARBADOS Tel: (246) 421-6700 e-mail: chrisw@millerpublishing.net | www.insandoutsofsvg.com While every care has been taken in the compilation of information contained in this guide, such information is subject to change without notice. The publishers accept no responsibility for such changes. © 2016 MILLER PUBLISHING CO. LTD. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or stored in any form or by any means without the prior written permission of the publisher.

2  Credits

PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Lyn Armstrong

ARTWORK & LAYOUT Christine Wilkie Sally Miller Tao Howard Janelle Bryan

DESIGN Tao Howard

COVER PAINTING L. D. Lucy

PHOTOGRAPHERS Wilfred Dederer Calvert Jones Mark Pratley Edson Reece Kay Wilson

DISTRIBUTION Ins & Outs is distributed throughout St. Vincent & the Grenadines by the SVG Hotel & Tourism Association. Copies of the publication are placed in hotel rooms, villas, charter yachts and visitor information centres. Ins & Outs is also available through the SVG Tourism Authority and the overseas offices of the Ministry of Tourism in London, New York and Toronto.

ONLINE Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines can be viewed online at www.insandoutsofsvg.com Follow us on Facebook: /insandoutsofSVG


Contents General Info

St. Vincent

Bequia

8

32

70

The Grenadines

7 Welcome to St. Vincent & the Grenadines 8 Calendar of Events 20 Fast Facts 20-21 Maps 24 Ferry Schedules 26 Chartering 146 Accommodation Guide

33 History 38 Discover St. Vincent 40 Exploring St. Vincent 43 Beaches and Anchorages 48 Shopping 54 Dining & Nightlife 60 Where to Stay

71 History 78 Discover Bequia 80 Exploring Bequia 83 Beaches and Anchorages 86 Weddings in Paradise 88 Shopping 91 Art & Craft 94 Dining & Nightlife 102 Where to Stay 106 Villa Life 112 Mustique 116 Canouan 120 Tobago Cays Marine Park 122 Mayreau 123 Tobago Cays 124 Union Island 140 Private Island Resorts 142 Palm Island - The Pearl of the Grenadines 144 Discover Petit St. Vincent

Feature Articles 4  Contents

204

14 33 36 46 74

The Crafts & Visual Arts of St. Vincent & the Grenadines A Revisionist History of St. Vincent The Garinagu of Greiggs Meet a Vincy - Lawrence “Captain” Guy Meet a Bequian - The Story of Orson Ollivierre


January Full Moon Beach Party & MoonLight Kitesurfing Show Mon. 5th at the JT Pro

Center, Kite Beach, Clifton Lagoon, Union Island. Great party atmosphere music, dancing, light show, food & drinks.

Welcome Caption Credit

to6 St. Vincent & the Grenadines Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


A

warm Caribbean welcome to alluring St. Vincent and the Grenadines – a world of breathtaking seascapes

where the people are welcoming and the pace is relaxed and slow. Although this is one of the most beautiful places in the Tropics, it remains relatively unknown, and like many visitors to these shores, once you’ve made your first discovery you will probably return year after year! Ins & Outs helps enhance the overall vacation experience, giving an insider’s glimpse at the flavour and colour of local life – after all that is the essence of a truly memorable holiday! While visiting SVG, whether by boat or staying on land, we ask that you remain acutely aware of the fragile environment of these small islands and their communities. These waters provide some of the best diving grounds in the world. When snorkeling or diving do not touch or stand on coral structures and do not anchor on the reef. Never accept offers from individuals willing to discard of your garbage for a fee, please dispose of your garbage personally in the designated areas. Take along your own shopping bags and buy returnable bottles and items with the least amount of packaging. Enjoy your visit to the islands, we suspect that you will grow to love them as much as we do.

With best wishes, Photo: Wilfred Dederer

The Miller Publishing Team

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  7


January

February

Full Moon Beach Party & MoonLight Kitesurfing Show Sat. 23rd at the JT Pro Center, Kite Beach, Clifton Lagoon, Union Island. Great party atmosphere - music, dancing, light show, food & drinks.

Full Moon Beach Party & Moon-Light Kitesurfing Show Mon. 22nd at the JT Pro Center on Kite Beach, Clifton Lagoon, Union Island. Great party atmosphere - music, dancing, light show, food and drinks.

Bequia Mount Gay Music Fest Thu. 21st to Sun. 24th Schedule: Thu. 21st: 9pm at Frangipani Hotel - 13-piece Elite Steel Orchestra. Fri. 22nd: 8:30pm at De Reef, Lower Bay - Mustique Blues Festival in Bequia - Dana Gillespie & The London Blues Band. Sat. 23rd: 12:30pm at Bequia Beach Hotel, Friendship Beach - Live afternoon Jam Session. Sat. 23rd: 8:30pm at De Reef, Lower Bay - Bequia’s BIG Music Night. Sun. 24th - 12:30pm at De Reef, Lower Bay - Music by the Beach: Grand Mount Gay Party Finale. Check website for full line-up: www.bequiatourism.com/ bequiamusicfest

Sunshine School Auction Sun. 7th - Gingerbread Restaurant. Viewing from 11.30am - Auction starts 1pm. For more information contact the Sunshine School at (784) 457-3794. sunshine@vincysurf.com www.bequiasunshineschool.org

The 22nd Annual Mustique Blues Festival Wed. 20th to Wed. 3rd Feb. Each Sunday during the festival there is a Sunset Show at Basil’s Bar - great family fun! Tel: (784) 488-8407. www.basilsbar.com Art Gallery Exhibitions Opening in December 2015 and continuing, group exhibition by St. Vincent’s Creative Young Artists Movement with guests. For further details contact The Oasis Art Gallery in Port Elizabeth, Bequia at Tel: (784) 497-7670. Youlou Arts Foundation Fundraiser An on going fundraiser for Youlou Arts Foundation. The sale of 6” x 6” paintings by local and international artists. On sale at Theo Saunders Shop, Bonadie St., Heritage Sq., Kingstown. Tel: (784) 457-1914. All proceeds go to the establishment of an art centre.

Art Gallery Exhibitions Fri. 5th - Opening of the exhibition by Caroline ‘boops’ Sardine and Robert Joyette. Feb. 26th - Opening of the Oasis Annual Watercolour show. For further details contact The Oasis Art Gallery in Port Elizabeth, Bequia at (784) 497-7670. Youlou Arts Foundation Fundraiser 2nd Annual Art Show and Sale at the Curator’s House in the Botanical Gardens. Opening reception on Saturday 27th. For more details visit the Facebook page: Creative artists of St. Vincent and the Grenadines and blog: youlouarts.wordpress.

March 50th Annual Easterval Celebrations, Union Island Sun. 20th to Mon. 28th Contact: Union Island Tourist Board. Tel: (784) 458-8350. uniontourism@hotmail.com Full Moon Beach Party & MoonLight Kitesurfing Show Wed. 23rd at the JT Pro Center on Kite Beach, Clifton Lagoon, Union Island. Great party atmosphere - music, dancing, light show, food and drinks. Bequia Easter Regatta Thu. 24th to Mon. 28th Contact Bequia Sailing Club, Tel: (784) 431-7262.

Afternoon Jam Session at Bequia Beach Hotel during the Bequia Mount Gay Music Fest Photo: Wilfred Dederer

8  Calendar of Events: January to March 2016


Public Holidays

New Year’s Day | Fri. 1st Jan. National Heroes’ Day | Mon. 14th Mar. Good Friday | 25th Mar. Easter Monday | 28th Mar.

Full Moon

Sat. 23rd January Mon. 22nd February Wed. 23rd March Find a full What’s On in St. Vincent at: svghotels.com/whats-on

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  9


April

June

Full Moon Beach Party & MoonLight Kitesurfing Show Fri. 22nd at the JT Pro Center on Kite Beach, Clifton Lagoon, Union Island. Great party atmosphere music, dancing, light show, food and drinks.

Bequia Carnival Fri. 17th - Mon. 20th A delightfully informal and spontaneous event. Check with the Bequia Tourism Office. Tel: (784) 458-3286.

Gospel Fest A series of concerts around the islands. urban@vincysurf.com Mayreau Regatta Thu. 28th to Sun. 1st May Four fun-filled days for the whole family. Locals and visitors alike will enjoy the traditional sail boat races, fishing competition and may pole dancing along with newer events such as the fourday Kiddy Regatta Corner, kite flying competition, lionfish derby, lionfish cooking competition, and traditional cooking contest. Not to mention their full slate of evening events. Lobster Season Closes 30th April

May Canouan Regatta Thu. 12th to Mon. 16th Boat races, sports and games, calypso competitions, street jump-up and beauty pageants. Contact: Mr. Carlos McLaurean, Commodore, Canouan Sailing Club at Tel: (784) 458-8197. Full Moon Beach Party & MoonLight Kitesurfing Show Sat. 21st at the JT Pro Center on Kite Beach, Clifton Lagoon, Union Island. Great party atmosphere music, dancing, light show, food and drinks. Maroon Festival, Union Island Annual festival held 3 days before or after the full moon, marking the start of the planting season. Activities include the Big Drum, Nation Dance and traditional folksongs. Call Union Island Tourism Association (784) 458-8350.

Vincy Mas Fri. 24th to Tue. 5th July Vincy Mas festivities include King and Queen of the Bands, Junior Carnival, Miss SVG, Miss Carnival, Steel Band and Calypso competitions, Old Mas and J’ouvert street parades. Contact the Carnival Development Corporation at Tel: (784) 457-2580. www.carnivalsvg.com

July Carnival Monday/J’ouvert Mon. 4th - an early morning street jump-up. T-shirt bands participate in a great street jump-up in the afternoon and into the evening. Carnival Tuesday Tue. 5th - Mardi Gras Mas Bands parade on stage at Carnival City (Victoria Park) competing for the Band of the Year Award and then on to the streets of Kingstown. Bequia Annual Fisherman’s Day Competition Sat. 9th Contact: Bequia Tourism Association: Tel: (784) 458-3286 or email: bequiatourism@vincysurf.com Canouan Carnival Fri. 29th to Mon. 1st Aug. Youlou Arts Foundation Fundraiser During the carnival season Youlou Arts Foundation will have a Pop Up Bar in Victoria Park (To Be Confirmed). For more details check our Facebook page: Youlou Arts Foundation and our blog:  http://youlouarts.wordpress.com All proceeds go to the establishment of an art centre. Annual 3 week children’s art programme “Growing Young SVG Artists” takes place from Monday July 18th to Friday August 5th. Visitors Welcome!  Taking place in 4 locations: Kingstown, Barrouallie, Georgetown, and Spring Village. For further details Tel: (784) 457 1914.

10  Calendar of Events: April to July 2016


Public Holidays

Labour Day (May Day) | Sun. 1st Whit Monday | May 16th Carnival Monday | 4th July Carnival Tuesday | 5th July

Full Moon

Fri. 22nd April Sat. 21st May Mon. 20th June Tue. 19th July Find a full What’s On in St. Vincent at:

svghotels.com/whats-on

Vincy Mas Celebrations

Photo: Edson Reece (784) 528-9992 edsonreeceweddings@gmail.com www.emagescaribbean.com / Facebook: /tropicalweddings

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  11


August

November

Emancipation Month

National Tourism Week Dates to be announced.

Emancipation Day Festivities Mon. 1st - Events to commemorate the abolition of slavery. Breadfruit Festival The month sees various food fair presentations in different parts of the country. These showcase a variety of dishes that can be made from breadfruit. There are also mini exhibitions which explain the potential uses of the plant, from lumber and function as toys, to medicinal use. For further info contact the Ministry of Culture at Tel: (784) 451-2180 or email: urban@vincysurf.com

September KCCU National Dance Festival Month Dance Festival 2016 Performance events of a competitive format. Community and School groups are all invited to participate. This is an opportunity for national presentation of the groups. For further info contact the Ministry of Culture at Tel: (784) 451-2180 or email: urban@vincysurf.com Lobster Season Opens Thu. 1st

October Independence Month Celebrations 37th Anniversary of Independence - various shows, rallies and other celebrations occur across the country. There are internal school programmes and national programmes.

Theatre Arts Festival This is an opportunity for community groups and schools to present dramatic work within a festival programme. For further info contact the Ministry of Culture. Tel: (784) 451-2180 or email: urban@vincysurf.com

December Christmas Lighting Up Under the Almond Tree (Bequia) Sun. 11th to Sat. 24th Community entertainment with carol singing, choirs, and string band performances under the almond tree in the harbour in the evenings. National Nine Mornings Festival Fri. 16th to Sat. 24th This is a unique Vincentian tradition celebrated annually during the nine mornings before Christmas. Vincentians awake in the early morning hours, (usually 4am), and take part in activities including concerts, dances, bicycle riding and sea baths. In the rural areas, the final morning usually ends with a steel band ‘jump-up’. Contact the Ministry of Culture at Tel: (784) 451-2180 or email: urban@vincysurf.com Art Gallery Exhibitions For further details contact The Oasis Art Gallery in Port Elizabeth, Bequia at Tel: (784) 497-7670. New Year’s Eve Celebrations Sat. 31st Midnight fireworks display over the Harbour in Port Elizabeth, Bequia.

Port Elizabeth, Bequia - all dressed up for Christmas Photo: Wilfred Dederer

12  Calendar of Events: August to December 2016


Public Holidays

Independence Day | Thu. 27th Oct. Christmas Day | Sun. 25th Dec. Boxing Day | Mon. 26th Dec.

Full Moon

Thu. 18th August Fri. 16th September Sun. 16th October Mon. 14th November Tue. 13th December Find a full What’s On in St. Vincent at: svghotels.com/whats-on

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  13


Locally made basket work on display near Buccament Bay Resort on the Leeward coast of St. Vincent Photo: Calvert Jones

The Crafts & Visual Arts of St. Vincent & the Grenadines By Lesley Quashie No survey of the rich tradition of crafts and visual arts in St. Vincent & the Grenadines would be complete without first acknowledging the extraordinary works created by the Amerindian people who first settled here from the northern coastal areas of South America close to two thousand years ago. Exquisitely decorated pottery including realistically sculpted animal forms and stylised human faces, finely carved and polished stone axes and the many still-undeciphered petroglyphs of our valleys, all speak to 1,200 years or more of an evolving culture, full of skill and mysticism. And equally no visit to St. Vincent would be complete without a visit to the small but intriguing National Trust Museum at the old Carnegie Library in Kingstown where wonderful examples of just such works of art are on display. The later Carib settlers who came from the same South American region were famed for their weaving, spinning and basketware, and for their love of ornament.

Though no examples of these works have survived, we have a sense of the skill and flair of their makers through the many works of travelling Italian artist Agostino Brunias (active in St. Vincent in the 1770s), whose striking portrait of “Chatoyer, the Chief of the Black Charaibes in St. Vincent with his Wives” has allowed St. Vincent to put a face to the name of their first National Hero. With French and British jostling for dominance of this richly fertile “virgin” island , the arrival of Europeans in the 18th century heralded centuries of colonial rule which was marked by slavery, military conquest, exile, emancipation and seemingly endless struggle, until finally Independence was gained in 1979. There remains very little visual art history from these last 200 or more years, or at least until the 1970s. The Vincentian-born naturalist and Oxford scholar Rev. Landsdown Guilding, (1797-1831), known for his work on the flora and fauna of St. Vincent, was also an accomplished artist/illustrator and engraver, and his name lives on with Amazona guildingii, our own native parrot. Certainly too, some pretty watercolours were created here to produce prints for mass consumption “back home”, but with the exception of Brunias, we had no Gauguin to carry images of our tropical isles to the salons of Europe and the museums of posterity.

14  The Crafts & Visual Arts of SVG


That’s not to say that creativity was lacking though, for the Africans forced to work here and who remained as free men brought from their homeland a rich performing arts tradition of costume, music and dance which, with Carnival as a prime example, still underpins much of the cultural scene in St. Vincent that we see today. Well into the 1900s, as the British administration built more and bigger schools, art was certainly included in the curriculum here, but based solely on the model of “Mother England”. With no artistic identity to draw from, and no role models of Vincentian artists as income earners, art was not valued as a possible career or calling. In time, and with diminishing resources, school art programmes all but disappeared and by the 1970s art education was limited to privately run primary schools and kindergartens. What developed, however, during those decades, was what we now regard as traditional local crafts. Some, such as intricate model schooners, carved gum boats or decorative crochet work were the product of that finally less rare commodity – leisure time. Centuries old traditional crafts endured too, with every day items being crafted with natural materials readily available from the environment. Cups and beakers were made from bamboo, baskets, mats and hats from grasses and palm leaves, jewellery from nuts and seeds, calabash bowls from the fruit of the boley tree. And those with an artist’s eye began to see the calabash skin as a blank canvas ready for decorating, and the intricate gingerbread trim that completed a wooden house as a worthy form of artistic expression. Then tourists began to arrive. Those simple bamboo cups and woven hats became no mere ‘make do’ items, but visitors’ mementoes of walks in forests and on palm-fringed beaches, whilst coconut shells held memories of piña coladas and steel pan soca. Needlecraft of fabric scraps became sought-after appliqué and, with barefoot boat hippies dancing in the sand, the time for the seashell necklace was definitely here. Pictures of fish and frangipani appeared on calabash bowls, walking sticks grew heads and tails, and hats sprouted flowers. It was legitimate and valued work. Enterprising craftsmakers learned where to set up a table to make a sale; others set up shop. The Sargeant Brothers of Bequia had opened their model boat workshop in 1966 and were soon to enjoy worldwide recognition with their models of boats such as the Royal Yacht Britannia and Bob Dylan’s Bequiabuilt schooner Water Pearl. In 1970 Lavinia Gunn opened the first “Noah’s Arkade” – gift shops that for the next three decades in Kingstown and four on Bequia were invariably a visitor’s first stop for ”Creative Caribbean Crafts”. She worked to develop a close bond with Vincentian craft producers and with them created designs to meet the ever-changing interests and demands of the buyer. Well aware that for many producers craft sales are the only source of income to support families in rural areas, Ms. Gunn now helps establish a programme of Arts and Crafts Fairs on Mustique, a welcome addition to the calendar of Christmas and Carnival crafts events. With this same goal of income generation, the Government’s Department of Adult Continuing Education runs craft centres in the St. Vincent communities of Barrouallie, Wallilabou, Georgetown and the Frenches neighbourhood of Kingstown

Model boats and painted bolleys on display in Bequia’s Port Elizabeth Photo: Wilfred Dederer

The work and the many styles of painting and craft portray images of local life with realism, mystery or whimsy; together they create a wonderful picture of St. Vincent & the Grenadines Photo: Wilfred Dederer

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  15


Dannis Coy of Union Island celebrates the island’s wildlife in his work Unique pieces of jewellery handcrafted in Mayreau from the spines, fins and tails of the lionfish

Photo: Stanton Gomes

Photo: Nancy Saul-Demers

Cordell “Mandela” Ollivierre stands beside his “seamonster and spear fisherman” carving which he sculpted from an old, dead tree stump along the Belmont Walkway in Bequia Photo: John Nicholson

Goddess Dollies by “Mandela” Ollivierre Photo courtesy Oasis Art Gallery

As we browse among these gifts and souvenirs crafted from nature’s materials, now and then the work of a true artist shines through.

Nzimbu Brown’s detailed scenes crafted with banana fibres

Self-taught Vincentian artist, Peter Providence

where weaving, basket making and pottery are among the skills taught and showcased at regional fairs throughout the year. Visitors can drop by the centres to shop or can meet other crafts makers selling their work underneath the arches on Kingstown’s Bay Street or in the shade of almond trees on baysides from Bequia to Union Island. Some craft makers hope their work will not only delight visually, but also have a wider message. Women of Mayreau, with Nancy Saul-Demers, are handcrafting unique pieces of jewellery from the spines, fins and tails of the lionfish, a voracious invasive predator that threatens traditional fisheries and our marine environment. Felix Browne and Dannis Coy of Union Island also celebrate the island’s wildlife in their work. As we browse among these gifts and souvenirs crafted from nature’s materials, now and then the work of a true artist shines through. Indeed, who but an artist would conjure a green dinosaur made of flower petals? Strange wooden faces by Cordell “Mandela” Ollivierre, carved whales and scrimshaw by Bequian Richie King, Nzimbu Brown’s detailed scenes crafted with banana fibres and Jessie Knights-Hope’s flower art, to name just some – all speak of Vincentians’ wealth of artistic talent never learned at school. One person who recognised this rich seam was the late Tracy Connell, a Vincentian actor, singer and dancer, and above all lover of arts and culture. After returning from his travels abroad he got to know our native artists and saw their urgent need for an exhibition space; his family had opened Kingstown’s Bounty Restaurant in 1968 and Tracy worked with them to create what became the Bounty Restaurant and Art Gallery – the only commercial gallery our nation’s capital has known. It was here at “The Bounty” that many of us first saw the work of now well-known, and collectible, artists such as Dinks Johnson, Josette Norris, Peter Providence, Gary Peters, Dr. Vivian Childs and the late Joseph Esquina. After 20 years under the proprietorship of Tracy and his wife Toni, sadly The Bounty closed its doors in 2012. Today some of this art may still be seen in St. Vincent at occasional exhibitions organised by Art in Action, the Department of Culture, the National Trust, or the Alliance Française. With a few ‘naïve’ exceptions, this is a body of quality artwork by self-taught artists who had mastered watercolour techniques or worked with oils on canvas. Most are realists, portraying village life and fishing scenes, the people and landscapes of their lives and as they do so, documenting these years in the life of our country.

16  The Section Crafts & Visual Arts of SVG


It was not until the late 1990s that “modernism” began to appear, particularly in the work of two Vincentian artists Caroline “booops” Sardine and Robert Joyette. Graduates of Jamaica’s Edna Manley College for the Visual and Performing Arts (“booops” also studied at the British Royal College of Art), both have chosen to once again make St. Vincent their home. Since the 1970s, a quite different art scene has been developing “down island”. Year by year, from the UK and USA, from Australia, Canada, Belgium, France and beyond, artists “from away” have made the Grenadines islands their home, if only for a while... Nora Birmingham, Melinda Parke and Claude Victorine who painted on board, on shirts and on silk, Patrick ‘Doc” Chevalier renowned for his colourful paintings of fishes and Palm Island’s reefs, scrimshaw artist Sam McDowell whose paintings hung at Athneal Ollivierre’s old Whaling Museum as did his wife Donna’s Sailors Valentines. Painter Peter Carr whose early ‘sepia’ drawings of Bequia’s harbour life were actually coffee on paper, Caroline Porter who established the Crab Hole silk-screening studio (the screens worked today by the Whaleboner out at Spring), Mike Goddard and Maggie Mitchell who created the enchanting Spring Pottery and Studios out of a ruined sugar mill (today their venue is the Cinammon Studios at Cinammon Garden), painters and mixedmedia artists Julie Lea, H. Muller, Pinky Vaughn Richards, L.D. Lucy, Anna Landry, Steve Winsborough… and the list goes on. Whether these artists painted quietly at home or opened their studios to the public, they all helped foster an image of these islands as a place where artistic endeavour flourishes and where visitors and homeowners can readily find quality artwork. And whether they shared advice or materials, brought paints and art supplies from overseas, hired assistants, mentored, sponsored or simply inspired, they contributed to the community’s understanding that art is a respectable and viable way to make a living and to what is now a lively arts and crafts scene with a rich variety of work by Vincentians. Today’s waterfront in Bequia is lined with homegrown artists and craftsmen eager to add their work to this thriving tradition. Some people have taken a more active role in fostering and promoting Vincentian work. On Bequia, painter Julie Lea, whose watercolour classes at Sugar Reef bring the joy of art into many a visitor’s life, helps source and distribute art supplies from the USA and shares her skills too with children at the Learning Centre, Paradise Primary School and the Fig Tree reading club. Volunteers Lila Roo and Nick Larson from the US founded the New Roots group for children of Paget Farm and spend their winters leading visual and performing arts projects. Artist L.D. Lucy who 15 years ago was facilitating local arts and craft fairs under Port Elizabeth’s almond trees and encouraging her husband, a retired fisherman, to make model boats, now curates Bequia’s Oasis Art Gallery and Gift Shop where “everything you see here is made here in S.V.G.”

“All art made in SVG” is the mandate of the Oasis Art Gallery & Gift Shop in Bequia

Vincentian artist Robert Joyette Photo courtesy Oasis Art Gallery

Whether these artists painted quietly at home or opened their studios to the public, they all helped foster an image of these islands as a place where artistic endeavour flourishes and where visitors and homeowners can readily find quality artwork.

Australian painter Peter Carr’s early ‘sepia’ drawings of Bequia’s harbour life were actually coffee on paper Photo reproduced from Peter’s book, “Bequia, a Feast of Color” www.mango-art-studio-bequia.com

On Bequia, resident artist Julie Lea offers watercolour classes in the relaxed seaside setting of the Sugar Reef Café Photo: Christine Wilkie

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  17


‘Planting Moon’ by Vonnie Roudette

Today 99% of graduates of the Associate Degree programme who are not pursuing further studies, are employed or self-employed.

On the mainland of St Vincent, painter Cecile Comblen helped found, first the St. Vincent and Grenadines Visual Arts Society, then Art in Action, whose aim is to bring artists together and uplift society’s attitude towards the visual arts. Vincentian-born artist and teacher Camille Musser returns here each summer to work with the Youlou Arts Foundation, a not-for-profit NGO that she founded in 2000. Its summer art programme is aimed to reach the most economically disadvantaged students who have little or no exposure to visual arts education; the quest for a National Art Gallery is also high on the Foundation’s agenda. Arguably though, no one has made a greater difference to the development and encouragement of artistic creativtiy in SVG, than artist, educator, author and farmer, Vonnie Roudette. Since relocating her family to St Vincent in 1991, Vonnie has inspired a generation of young artists and created for them opportunities that 25 years ago others would never have dreamed possible. With a Trini and British heritage, African childhood and a wealth of study, work and research experience in Japan, England and Italy, Vonnie

brought to St Vincent her deep sense of appreciation for the environment and ideals of community culture. In the 1990s Vonnie initiated Children Creativity classes, founded SVG Create, an association presenting national Arts and Crafts Fairs and assisting producers with their marketing and presentation, and created Fibreworks Inc., a craft factory in rural St. Vincent providing employment opportunities for weavers using mostly local grasses. In 2001 with the help of STATVET she set up the country’s first Advanced Level Art Programme at St. Vincent Community College, division of Arts and Sciences. From only four students in the first graduating class, enrolment has steadily grown and the success rates have been exceptional. Building on the A-level syllabus, Vonnie designed the College’s Associate Degree programme (Fine Art, Design and Cultural Communications) which, along with foundational work in the arts includes Aesthetics & Ecology, Heritage & Environment plus Pan African Art & the Caribbean Aesthetic, is geared towards enabling Vincentian students to develop selfawareness as artists within the context of their natural cultural heritage.

18  The Crafts & Visual Arts of SVG


The programme also facilitates economic independence through creative enterprise and group cooperation, so that after graduation, students are not left alone to counter the still widespread attitude that “art is not a proper job”. Thus was created the Contemporary Young Artists’ Movement (CYAM), of which all graduates are automatic members, and which other artists are also welcome to join. “CYAM”, Vonnie explains, “is like a creative family. Members form an intangible bond fuelled by a creative experience and mutual support for each others creation”. Some members choose a solo career, or continue their studies overseas, and others have together initiated various projects including mural paintings, exhibitions, annual calendars and a bi-monthly programme “The Art Room” on NBC radio. Today 99% of graduates of the Associate Degree programme who are not pursuing further studies, are employed or self-employed. In 2008, Vonnie compiled a collection of work by established and emerging Vincentian artists for the 2008 Carifesta showcase in Guyana. Her exhibit became the talk of the symposia. “What is happening on St. Vincent”, surprised viewers asked, “that so much good art is being produced?”

Seven years on, the brilliance of Vincentian talent is no doubt still there, surely to shine brighter still. But where? From the outspoken activists and the focussed business-minded to the usually quiet and humble, Vincentian artists begin to speak with one increasingly louder voice for the establishment of a National Art Gallery. Long part of the mandate of the Ministry of Tourism, Sports and Culture, but long also the victim of fiscal restraint, a National Gallery would not only encourage today’s artists to create new work for exhibitions, it would also facilitate the growth of the currently small and unnoticed national collection into a source of national pride. It would be a place for Vincentian artists of all disciplines to come together and a focal point for regional cultural exchange. Today, groups such as CYAM, Art in Action and the Youlou Arts Foundation are moving ahead from merely lobbying to business planning and fundraising to make this National Gallery a reality. With so many creative minds at work, let’s hope it will soon become just that – a place for Vincentians and visitors to enjoy, a place where the dazzling light of our country’s culture and its heritage can finally illuminate an infinitely wider audience.

From the outspoken activists and the focussed businessminded to the usually quiet and humble, Vincentian artists begin to speak with one increasingly louder voice for the establishment of a National Art Gallery. ‘Our Living Heritage’, a mural located in Kingstown near to the cruise ship berth, which was produced by the CYAM (Contemporary Young Artist Movement) Team

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  19


St. Vincent St. Vincent & the Grenadines

Porter Point

KEY

Baleine Bay

P Police Station

*

*Falls of Baleine

Places of Interest Church Hospital

Sion Hill Old Sandy Bay P

Tro’s Loups Bay

New Sandy Bay Village

Larikai Bay

Anchorages

Soufriere Mountains ∆1,234m/4,048ft

* La Soufriere Volcano iere

Airport a to L

fr Sou

Win

*Trinity Falls

Richmond

Richmond Vale Camp Richmond

*Dark View

Thirteen Stones P (Petroglyphs)

Chateaubelair Is.

Petit Bordel Bay

Falls

∆3,523ft

Bequia

L‘Anse Mahaut Bay Wallilabou Anchorage Hotel

Keartons Bay

Barrouallie

Mustique

Mayreau Jetty Jetty Jetty Jetty

Union Island

Jetty

Petit Mustique Canouan

Byrea

Leveth

Layou Bay P Layou Buccament Bay Resort

*Vermont

Sans Souci New Ground Greiggs

*Montreal

Vermont Nature Trail

ST. ANDREW

*

Resort & Casino

Dubois

∆2,413ft

Pembroke

D’Chateau Guest House Mt. St. Andrew

Questelles Chauncey Anse Cayenne Green Hill Questelles Bay Camden Park Lowmans Bow Wood

Valley Camel

ST. GEORGE Dumbarton Meek Riley’s

Petit Byahaut Resort

P

Grant’s Bay

Biabou

Biabou Bay

Hopewell Peruvian Spring Vale

Mesopotamia *Arawak

P

Rock Carvings

Welcome Evesham Akers Botanical Redemption Ashburton Drive Montrose Gardens Queens Calder Argyle Tropic Breeze Hotel Site of new International Airport Orange Victoria Belair scheduled for completion in 2011 Grove Edinboro Park Fairhall Victoria Yambou Beach P McKies Dorsetshire Charlotte Village Mt. Pleasant Fountain Hill Hill P Sion Vigie Hill Arnos E.T. Joshua Airport Vale Stubbs Choppins Cane Garden Stubbs Bay Rose Glen Greathead Bay Indian Bay Cottage Villa Ratho Brighton Village Ribishi Point Mill

*

Questelles Point

Camden Park Bay Lowmans Bay

Fort

South Union Bay

Cedars

Compulsion

Colonaire Bay North Union Bay

Lower Lomans

Francois Gardens Queensbury Retreat Bridgetown Penniston Golden Grove Mesopotamia Emerald Valley Rillion Hill

Clare Valley

P Colonaire

Diamond

∆3,181ft

Black Point

* Black Point Tunnel

Mangrove

South Rivers

Hermitage

Forest Reserve Ferret

Ferdies Footstep Guest House

P Georgetown

Grand Sable

Grand Bonhomme

Mt. Wynne Bay

Langley Park

Caratal Village

Chester Cottage

Three Acres

Rabacca

Chapmans

ST. PATRICK

Peter’s Hope Bay

Petit St. Vincent

Rabacca Dry River

Spring Village

Wallilabou *Wallilabou FallsGrove Keartons Grove

P Princes Bay

Tobago Cays Palm Island

Falls

P Gordon Yard

Wallilabou Bay

Petit Nevis Ile de quatre

a S Orange Hill Estate Orange Hill oufr iere Waterloo

CHARLOTTE

P

Cumberland Rose Hall Mangaroo

Overland Village

to L

Mt. Brisbane

ST. DAVID

Belmont

rd T rail

∆3,058ft

Chateaubelair Richmond Peak Troumaka Bay Rose Troumaka Sharpe’s Bank Coulls Hill *Petit Bordel Falls Coulls Bay Cumberland Bay

London

*Hell’s Gate

Morne Garu Mountains

Fitzhughes

Vale

Chateaubelair Bay

Sandy Bay

Tourama Point

dwa

rail rn T Walisou Dry River

ste We

Young Island

Point Village

Tucker Bay

Recreational Facilities

St. Vincent

Comnantawana Bay P *Owia Salt Pond Owia Bay

Fancy

*

Kingstown

Calliaqua Bay

Fort* Duvernette

P

Prospect Blue Lagoon

Calliaqua

Young Island Resort

Brighton Bay

Johnson Point

Man Point L‘Anse Chemin

Bullet Cay Bullet Bay Bends Bay Diable Point Shark Bay Brute Point Sal Bay

Bequia

© Miller Publishing Co. Ltd. All rights reserved

Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary * Park Bay Crescent Beach Inn Industry Bay Spring

Maritime Museum Spring Bay Cinnamon Northwest Point Garden Firefly Plantation Hotel Site of Hibiscus Apts Hamilton Devils Table Hamilton Fort Ocar Anse La Coite Traveller’s Inn Ferry Dock Frangipani Hotel Rocky Bay * Port P Gingerbread Hotel Hope Bay Estate Elizabeth The Village Apts Admiralty Bay Hope Bay Mount Bamboo Chute Resort Pleasant Kingsville Apts Princess Margaret De Reef Apts B elle Low Up The Old Fort Lower Bay Poin per er B t Big Mount Pleasant Bay igh Lower Bay ht t Belles Rocky Bay Ravine Bay Moonhole Big Cay Dock Bequia Museum West Cay Friendship Friendship Bay Resort Sta Dock Adams Bay Paget La rk R Bay Island Inn Apts Playing Farm avin Pompe Field e Saint Hilaire Dock J.F.Mitchell Airport Point Whaling Station Sugarapple Inn Friendship Garden Apts Taylor’s Apts Petit Nevis Bequia Beach Hotel & Blue Tropic Bequia Beachfront Villas

* *

Fast

Facts

*

Battowia Balliceaux

Ile de Quatre

20  Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


North Point

Point Lookout

Honor Bay The Cotton House Hotel Mustique Watersports Endevour Bay The Cotton House Spa Plantain Bay

Bird Sanctuary Airport

Rutland Bay

Brooks Rock

School Library Tennis Courts

Lovell Village P Fishermen’s Village/Fish Market

Basil’s Bar & Boutique

Ramier Bay L‘Ansecoy Bay

The Mustique Company Mustique Equestrian Centre Lime Kiln Bay

Jetty

Marconi Bay

Firefly Britannia Bay

Simplicity Bay

Old Plantation

Rabbit Island

Lagoon Bay

Wilks Rocks

Deep Bay

Mustique

Obsidian Bay

St. Vincent & the Grenadines comprises

to the southwest like a kite’s tail. Young Island,

Black Sand Bay

Gelliceaux Bay

forming part of the Windward Islands,

32 islands and cays extending 72 km (45 miles)

Pasture Bay

Lagoon

L

ocated in the southern Caribbean Sea,

Bequia, Mustique, Canouan, Mayreau, The Tobago Cays Marine Park, Union Island, Palm

Point Jupiter Hyambook Bay

Island and Petit St. Vincent are the main islands.

Point Moody

Mahaul Bay

Corbec Bay

St. Vincent is located at Latitude 13° 15’ N,

Dry Point Mount Royal Cloey Hole Trump International Billy Hole Golf Club at Raffles Resort

L‘Ance Guyac Bay

Little Bay Whaling Bay Ramean Bay Cato Bay

Longitude 61° 12’ W and situated 160 km (100

The Grenadine Estate

Road

Point de Jour Quarry Point Canouan Resort Godahl Bay Point Siz Windward Bay Grand Cois

East

Coast

Charlestown Charles Bay Bay Ocean View Inn Grand Bay Tamarind Beach Hotel & Yacht Club Glossy North Glossy Bay Bachelor’s Hill Hall Bay Taffia Bay Nen’s Bay Riley Bay Charlestown South Glossy Bay Lukee Point Canouan Airport Jim Barbruce Bay Taffia Frie Hill nds Hill Friendship Point L‘Islot hip Bay Canouan Baleine

miles) west of Barbados, 120 km (75 miles) north of Grenada and 40 km (24 miles) south of St. Lucia. St. Vincent, the largest of the islands comprising the nation, covers roughly 390 sq.

Canouan

km (150 sq. miles). The population is approximately 100,747. About 25% of the labour force works in agriculture, 10% in industry and over 50% in services, based mostly on a growing tourism

Bloody Head

industry.

Bloody Bay Mount Olympus ∆640ft

Richmond Bay

Ruin

Jetty Mount Taboi

Fort Irene

Ruin

Ashton

∆1,000ft

Jetty

Ashton Harbour

Frigate Island Queensbury Point

Ruin Ruin

Ruin Ruin

Miss Irene Point

Belmont Bay Big Sands

Ruin

Chatham Bay

Mount Cambell ∆790ft

Big Sands Hotel

Jetty Jetty Jetty

Fort Hill Ruin ∆400ft Jetty

Clifton Market Jetty

Point Lookout Airport

Jetty Jetty

Green Island Newlands Reef

Clifton Harbour

Coast Guard Station

Petit Bay Clifton Beach Hotel Marine View Hotel/Apts. Kings Landing Amerindi

Agricultural produce includes bananas and plantains, coconuts, sweet potatoes, spices,

Happy Island

Anchorage Yacht Club Bougainvilla Hotel Wind & Sea Sailing Charters Erika’s Marine Services SVG Tourism Bureau Clifton Cottages Lambie’s Guest House St. Joseph’s House

© Miller Publishing Co. Ltd. All rights reserved

citrus and mangos; a small number of cattle, sheep, pigs and goats are reared; and there is a small fishing sector. Industries include food processing, block-making, furniture, clothing

Union Island

and starch.

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  21


Climate & Geography

The Government

Currency

Mountainous interior Sheltered indented Leeward coastline

SVG is a parliamentary democracy within the Commonwealth of Nations

Eastern Caribbean Dollar

Queen Elizabeth II Head of State Governor General Queen’s Representative 10.27.79 Independence 5 yrs Parliamentary term of office 21 Members of Parliament*

EC$2.70

1,220m (4,000’)

27°C Average yearly daytime temperature coolest

nov-feb

La Soufriere: active volcano in the north

Airports | Departure Tax ET Joshua Airport in Arnos Vale, St. Vincent is the largest of 5 SVG airports, with a new international airport at Argyle, St. Vincent scheduled for completion in 2016. Serviced by Liat (St. Vincent and Canouan), SVG Air, Grenadine Air Alliance and Mustique Airways.

Departure Tax

EC$50

*inclusive in Liat ticket fare

airports: Bequia Mustique Canouan Union Island

*15 elected, 6 appointed senators - 4 by PM, 2 by Opposition Leader

Getting Here by Air St. Vincent is reached by air from N. America and Europe through 6 gateways with daily connections to Union, Canouan, Mustique and Bequia: 2hr 20 mins 1hr 45 mins 35 mins 30 mins 20 mins

puerto rico trinidad martinique barbados grenada st. lucia

flying time to St. Vincent

Immigration SVG arrivals must present: 1. a valid passport (at least 6 months) 2. sufficient funds to cover their stay A return or onward ticket is required

Yacht Clearance Procedures • Visiting yachts must complete clearance formalities at a designated port of entry before docking at any other anchorage • With Q flag hoisted, only the captain should go ashore with: 1. Three crew lists 2. Clearance from the previous port 3. Passports 4. Ship’s papers

• Boats must clear out of an official port • Private vessels may pay a Cruise Tax for unlimited stay in SVG waters • Charter boats must possess an SVG Cruising Licence

Education • School is compulsory up to 15 years old • Government funded primary and

Standard plug Pack an adaptor

Visas are required for nationals of: Dominican Republic, China, Syria, Jordan, Lebanon, Iraq, Iran, Nigeria Work permits are available from the Prime Minister’s Office, Bay Street, Kingstown

Telecommunications State of the art fibre optic digital telephone system

internet • boatphone • cellular

1-784 + local 7 digit number International Direct Dialing (IDD) service is available. International calls can be made through the operator by major credit card phone cards / online ‘top ups’ available islandwide

Potable Water in abundant supply due to high levels of rainfall

safe to drink

* Rainwater collected/stored in cisterns on most islands

Bottled mineral water is readily available at groceries and restaurants

Seaport | Shipping • Natural deep water harbour at Kingstown

• Wharf accommodates

two oceangoing ships

• Regular

kingstown

services: St. Vincent > Major ports

north america

europe

caribbean

Legal System

Clothing

The legal system is derived from English common law and statutes.

Casual dress is best

• The Eastern Caribbean (or St. Vincent & the Grenadines) Supreme Court comprises a high court and a court of appeals • 11 courts in 3 managerial districts • The judicial committee of Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London is the court of last resort

CAMOUFLAGE* PUBLIC NUDITY ga

l

22  Fast Facts

*Petit St. Vincent & Palm Island 110 volt, 60 cycle

le

through a Community College and polytechnics • 4 medical universities affiliated with hospitals for UK, US and Caribbean-based clinical programmes

220 / 240 volt

il

secondary schooling is free

• Post-secondary education is provided

Electricity in reliable supply

To find out more about airlines, flights and inter-island travel, visit the ‘Getting Here’ page at www.discoversvg.com

Kingstown, Chateaubelair, Wallilabou, Blue Lagoon bequia Port Elizabeth union island Clifton Harbour canouan Charlestown Bay mustique Britannia Bay

Ports are operated by the SVG Port Authority Emergency? Call (784) 456-1830 or Johnny Ollivierre at (784) 533-0016

Major credit cards accepted

50 cycle

Official Ports of Entry

st. vincent

= US$1

Topless sunbathing discouraged Swimsuits must not be worn in towns, public streets or business places

*illegal to wear or import

344 (29 x 17.7km) st. vincent/km2 44 the grenadines/km2


Getting Around By Taxi • Government sets the rates for fares, but taxis are unmetered • Always check the fare before setting off • Fares are raised for journeys late at night or early in the morning • Tipping is suggested at 10% of the fare. • Average fare from Indian Bay into Kingstown is approximately EC$30 • To the island’s major attractions, expect to spend EC$50 - 60 per hour for a car holding two to four passengers. By Car • Driving is on the left. • Driving on the narrow, twisting roads can be an adventure, but you will soon enjoy the challenge and start driving like a “Vincy” • Road signs are limited but locals are usually happy to direct you • Remember to sound your horn at sharp curves and turns • Most local companies will happily collect you at your hotel or airport By Bus • Flamboyantly painted buses travel the principal roads of St. Vincent, linking the major towns and villages with the central departure point, the bus terminal at the New Kingstown Fish Market • Minibuses stop on demand instead of at bus stops • Fares range from EC$1 to EC$6 (US.40¢ to US$2.20). • Buses run frequently between Kingstown and the popular hotel areas of Indian Bay and Villa but with limited frequency to Owia and Fancy in the north • The best way is to take the early bus to Georgetown and catch one of the two vans running between Georgetown and Fancy (EC$10). To get to Richmond in the northwest take a bus to Chateaubelair ($6) and then onto Richmond from Chateaubelair. A day trip to Mesopotamia (Mespo) by bus (EC$2.50) is a worthwhile experience.

Drivers Licences A temporary driving licence, costing EC$65 (US$26) and valid for 6 months, can be obtained from the police station on Bay Street, the Licensing Authority on Halifax Street or from the special branch officer at the E.T. Joshua Airport, with the presentation of a valid overseas drivers licence. Your car hire agent will assist you with getting a permit. If you have an International Driving Licence you must visit the Traffic Department in Kingstown to have it registered - There is no charge. Caricom nationals may drive with a valid Caricom drivers licence.

Ins & Outs Tip Sam’s Taxi & Tours (784 456-4338) is one of the more popular choices for sightseeing and getting around in general. Their drivers are courteous and friendly and offer entertaining commentary as you explore, and they offer a good selection of rental cars and jeeps should you wish to chart your own course.

Safety Tips CENTIPEDE/SCORPION BITES - While not lethal, severity and degree of discomfort depends on individual sensitivity. If there is any doubt, see a doctor, especially if a child has been bitten. MANCHINEEL - Avoid contact with the fruit commonly known as Manchineel Apples. They look and smell like small apples, but are very poisonous. Sap from the tree and fruit blisters the skin and raindrops falling from the tree can produce the same unpleasant effect. Do not shelter under a manchineel tree when it is raining. SEA URCHINS - A black sea egg with long black spines. If the spines are protruding from your skin you can try to carefully remove them; if they are beneath the skin DO NOT try to “pick” them out as this could cause infection. Leave them in your skin and they will eventually dissolve. To be safe, soak with vinegar or some form of antiseptic.

COCONUT PALMS - Never leave a baby or small child beneath a coconut palm because of the possibility of falling coconuts. ILLEGAL DRUGS - Severe penalties for possession of illegal drugs like Cannabis (weed or ganja) and cocaine exist – up to life imprisonment and yacht confiscation. Customs officials are well equipped and trained, so no attempts should be made to import or export even small quantities for “personal use.”

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  23


A Ferry Good Time

Schedule

Regular and efficient ferry services for freight and passengers operate between the Southern Grenadines and Kingstown, St. Vincent with two St. Vincent based companies, Jaden Sun Fast Ferry and MV Gem Star, and between Bequia and Kingstown (for cars as well) with Admiralty Transport and Bequia Express. For More Info Admiralty Transport (784) 458-3348 admiraltrans@vincysurf.com Bequia Express (784) 457-3539 / 458-3472 bequiaexpress@vincysurf.com Jaden Sun (784) 451-2192 | jadeninc.com MV Barracuda (784) 455-9835 MV Gem Star (784) 526-1158 / 593-6500

Fares Admiralty Transport and Bequia Express Kingstown > < Bequia | One Way: EC$25; Return Fare: EC$45 MV Barracuda Kingstown > < Canouan | EC$40 Kingstown > < Union Island | EC$50 Canouan or Union Island > < Mayreau | EC$30 MV Gem Star Kingstown > < Canouan | EC$40 Kingstown > < Mayreau | EC$45 Kingstown > < Union Island | EC$50 Kingstown > < Carriacou | EC$50

5

St. Vincent

Jaden Sun KINGSTOWN Kingstown > < Bequia | EC$40 Kingstown > < Canouan | EC$100 Bequia Kingstown > < Mayreau | EC$110 Kingstown > < Union Island | EC$110 Bequia > < Canouan | EC$90 Bequia > < Mayreau | EC$100 Bequia > < Union Island | EC$100 Union Island > < Mayreau | EC$40 Mayreau Canouan Union Island > < Canouan | EC$40 > < - either direction

Jetty Jetty Jetty Jetty

Union Island

24â&#x20AC;&#x192; Fast Facts

Jetty

DEPARTING KINGSTOWN Admiralty Transport

Mon & Fri | 7:45am, 11:30am, 4:30pm Tue, Wed, Thu | 11:30am, 4:30pm Sat | 8am, 11:30am, 5:30pm Sun & Public Holidays - 9am, 5:30pm

Bequia Express

Mon to Fri | 8am, 10:30am, 1pm, 4pm, 6pm Sat | 8am, 11am, 6pm Sun & Public Holidays - 8:30am, 6pm

MV Barracuda

Mon,Thu, Sat | 11:30am

DEPARTING BEQUIA Admiralty Transport

Mon & Fri | 6:30am, 9am, 2pm Tue, Wed, Thu | 6:30am, 2pm Sat | 6:30am, 9:15am, 4pm Sun & Public Holidays | 7:15am, 4pm

Bequia Express

Mon to Fri | 6:30am, 8:30am, 9:30am, 1pm, 4:30pm Sat | 6:30am, 9:15am, 4:30am Sun & Public Holidays | 7am, 4:30pm

DEPARTING UNION ISLAND MV Barracuda Tues and Fri | 6:30am Sat | 4pm

MV Gem Star

times correct at print date. check current schedules and inter-island departure/arrival times before travelling.

Tues and Fri | Noon Wed and Sat | 8:30am

Things to know about the SVG ferries 1. Ferries are an economical and reasonably comfortable means of getting around the Grenadines 2. Jaden Sun Fast Ferry operates between St. Vincent, Bequia, Canouan, Mayreau (according to demand) and Union Island 3. On Admiralty Transport/Bequia Express sailing time from jetty to jetty is only 1hr 4. One Wednesday a month MV Gem Star travels to Carriacou from Union and stops in Union on the way to Kingstown leaving there at 2pm. 5. Ferry schedules vary on public holidays. Always double check fares, schedules and freight charges by phone or online. (especially if you are taking connecting flights from St. Vincent as times and fares are subject to change without notice.)


Emergency

At-a-Glance

Numbers

emergency | Fire, Police, Coastguard: 911 / 999 / 311

police and protection services Kingstown: (784) 457-1211 Bequia: (784) 458-3350 / 458-3250 Canouan: (784) 458-8100 Union Island: (784) 458-8229 SVG Port Authority: (784) 456-1830 or (784) 494-9241

SVG Coastguard Calliaqua: (784) 457-4578 Crime Hotline: (784) 458-1234 or 311 Drugs Hotline: (784) 457-3784 0r 411

hospitals and medical care Milton Cato Memorial Hospital Kingstown, St. Vincent (784) 451-2460 / 456-1185

Maryfield Hospital (Private) Gunn Hill, Kingstown, St. Vincent (784) 457-8991

Chateaubelair Hospital Chateaubelair, St. Vincent (784) 458-2228 / 485-7890

Variety Medical Complex Inc. (Private) Arnos Vale, Kingstown, St. Vincent (784) 456-6319

Georgetown Hospital Georgetown, St. Vincent (784) 458-6652

Port Elizabeth Hospital, Bequia (784) 458-3294

Levi Latham Health Centre Mesopotamia Valley, St. Vincent (784) 458-5245

Canouan Health Clinic (784) 458-8305 Union Island Health Centre Clifton, Union Island (784) 458-8339

SVG Tourism Offices

St. Vincent Ministry of Tourism, Sports & Culture P.O. Box 834, 2nd Fl., NIS Building, Upper Bay Street, Kingstown St. Vincent & The Grenadines T: (784) 457-1502 | F: (784) 451-2425 E: tourism@gov.vc | Fb: /our.tourism www.discoversvg.com St. Vincent & The Grenadines Tourism Authority P.O. Box 834, 2nd Fl. NIS Complex, Upper Bay St., Kingstown St. Vincent & The Grenadines T: (784) 456-6222 | F: (784) 485-6020 E: svgta@discoversvg.com www.discoversvg.com St. Vincent & The Grenadines Hotel & Tourism Association Villa, P.O. Box 2125, St. Vincent & The Grenadines T: (784) 458-4379 | F: (784) 456-4456  E: svghotels@vincysurf.com www.svghotels.com

St. Vincent & The Grenadines Info Desk, Grantley Adams Int’l Airport, Barbados T: (246) 428-0961 or 233-6814 (after 1pm)

801 Second Avenue, 21st Floor New York, NY 10017, USA Toll free: (800) 729-1726 T: (212) 687-4981 | F: (212) 949-5946 E: svgtony@aol.com

airports E.T. Joshua Airport, St. Vincent: (784) 458-4960 or 458-4011 J.F. Mitchell Airport, Bequia: (784) 458-3948 or 458-3984 Mustique Airport: (784) 488-8336 or 485-9002 Canouan Airport: (784) 458-8049 Union Island Airport: (784) 458-8754 or 458-8750

important contacts p

55 Town Centre Court, Suite 403 Toronto, ON, M1P 4X4, Canada Toll free: (866) 421-4452 T: (416) 630-9292 | F: (416) 630-9291 E: svgtourismtoronto@rogers.com

10 Kensington Court London, W8 5DL, England, UK T: (207) 937-6570 | F: (207) 937-3611 E: svgtourismeurope@aol.com

25


Chartering 26â&#x20AC;&#x192; Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


W

hen it comes to chartering a yacht for a memorably enjoyable inter-island cruising experience, then St. Vincent

and the Grenadines might well be one of the best kept secrets in the business. While this beautiful and relatively unspoilt part of the world has long been a confirmed favourite and a repeat destination for those intrepid sailors already in the know, the Grenadines are still generally unheard of outside the inner circle of privileged devotees accustomed to cruising these pristine waters. This is not necessarily a bad thing, since those discerning individuals who choose to sail the Grenadines are then rewarded with a peaceful environment and uncrowded locations rarely found in any other destination of similar quality anywhere else in the world. Comprising some 32 islands and smaller cays, and stretching 85 miles (137 km) from St. Vincent in the north to Grenada in the south, the Grenadines have long been home to a rich tradition of seafaring and, to this day, sailing remains an integral part of everyday life for most islanders. As such, this special part of the world is tailor-made for safe but adventurous cruising all year-round. Each island is different, offering its own unique character and attractions, and sufficiently close to each other that you can usually see your next destination as you make your way from point to point during daylight hours. The diversity of the various islands automatically provides a wide variety of scenic beauty, natural anchorages and commercial moorings.

Tobago Cays Photo courtesy Kitsesurf Grenadines

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadinesâ&#x20AC;&#x192; 27


Chatham Bay in Union Island Photo: Mark Pratley - Coast Internet Publishing - www.cipwd.com

“A popular new trend is for couples to get married on one of the islands of St. Vincent and The Grenadines and then sail away on a private charter for their honeymoon”

With prevailing winds that blow from northeast to southeast and are at their peak during the winter months, especially December to March when speeds average between 10-25 knots, and winds that abate considerably during the summer months of June to September, the Grenadines can be a sailors’ paradise for old sea dogs and beginners alike. To match the diversity of the islands, the types of boats available for charter in the Grenadines include a wide variety of monohulls and catamarans, ranging in size from 30 to 130 feet, and cover the full spectrum from small sailboat, with or without a skipper and crew, all the way up to a fully-staffed luxury superyacht. There is something to cater to every taste and budget. The most economical way to charter a yacht is to opt for a ‘bareboat’, which essentially means no skipper or crew included. Clearly this only applies to seasoned sailors and should not be considered by anybody with little or no experience. In some cases it is possible to charter a bareboat with a skipper but no crew, thus benefiting from a knowledgeable captain while still saving some expense. By far the safest option, and most relaxing even for those with lots of experience, is to go for a full charter with a good skipper and crew. Beginning with the establishment of Barefoot Yacht Charters who celebrated 30 years in the

28  Chartering

business in 2014, today there are a number of reputable yacht charter companies operating out of St. Vincent and the Grenadines. These companies generally offer starts in St. Vincent, Bequia or Union Island. Sailing out of any one of these locations puts you immediately on the doorstep of the Grenadines without the 65-mile sail (including a 5-hour open-water passage) from St. Lucia, or the 6 to 7-hour sail (often against the wind) from Grenada. The yacht charter industry has recently benefited from the revitalisation and complete upgrade of the Blue Lagoon Marina facility in St. Vincent with Horizon Yacht Charters now operating a base there, as well as their base in Grenada. The charter companies listed on the following pages will be happy to assist you in planning your ideal getaway. And if you are a land-based holidaymaker, you can still enjoy a day out on the water exploring the surrounding islands. The Friendship Rose, based in Bequia, operates day charters to the Tobago Cays, St. Vincent and Mustique on their historic, Bequia-built sailing schooner. Sail Grenadines are also now based out of Bequia. In the Southern Grenadines, Wind and Sea, Scaramouche, Silent Wings and Sail Grenadines all offer memorable day trips in the Grenadines. Many of these also offer private charters, over-night trips and charters for a week or more.


Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadinesâ&#x20AC;&#x192; 29


B   arefoot Yacht Charters

St. Vincent Shipyard Ltd.

Operated by a family that has been sailing the waters of the Grenadines for 7 generations, this is St. Vincent’s longestestablished yacht charter company. Providing highly personalised service, they offer a fleet of beautifully equipped 32 to 50-foot catamarans and monohulls at very affordable rates. Choose between a bareboat charter or a luxury crewed trip. Honeymoon charters can also be arranged. Facilities include luxury ocean-view suites, a Mediterranean restaurant and air-conditioned lounge bar and an Internet Café.

St. Vincent Shipyard Limited is a yacht repairing facility with deep water access in Ottley Hall, providing full services to commercial vessels, yachts, super yachts and tugs. The facility boasts a marina and dry dock with a travel lift, exterior storage and standing, electricity, water and bunkering. Services include lifting of vessels out of the water for inspection, hull cleaning, maintenance and repair, antifouling, undocking after completion of work and all aspects of marine engineering. Their experienced multilingual team is dedicated to quality, delivering the highest level of service at the best prices. St. Vincent Shipyard Limited strives to make your boating experience as pleasurable and as safe as possible. Tel (784) xxx-xxxx | Fax (784) xxx-xxxx

Tel (784) 456-9526 | Fax (784) 456-9238 www.barefootyachts.com barebum@vincysurf.com Blue Lagoon, St. Vincent

www.website.com Tel (784) 457-2178/456-2640 email@email.com info@svgshipyard.com Address Kingstown, St. Vincent

S   ail Relax Explore

Wind and Sea

Luxury Charters to the TOBAGO CAYS, BEQUIA, MAYREAU and CANOUAN. Choose from a fleet of Luxury Catamarans, Super Yachts, Speedboats or Sports Fishing Boats. Add Dive, Beach BBQs or Kite Surfing. For an unbeatable experience charter the classic Grenadines Schooner “The Friendship Rose”. Book the best - call our team and EXPLORE the Grenadines. Charters can be arranged at short notice and with full service on board.

Established in 1984, Bougainvilla Hotel is in the heart of Clifton Harbour at Union Island. Wind and Sea offers day, overnight and long stay charters sailing throughout St. Vincent and the Grenadine islands. Guests can be collected from anywhere in SVG and taken to their choice of islands while being served drinks by the excellent staff. Buffet lunch on board or on one of the islands. They are also port agents for several cruise ships in the Grenadines. Bougainvilla is a wonderful facility for yachtsmen, dock, new dinghy dock, water, ice, restaurant “The Aquarium” serving fresh seafood everyday. Free Wi-fi service.

Tel (784) 457-3888 or (784) 495-0886 www.sailrelaxexplore.com enquiries@thegrenadinescollection.com

30  Chartering

Tel (784) 458-8878/8678 | Cell (784) 493-3128 www.grenadines-windandsea.com | www.grenadines-bougainvilla.com

windandsealtd@gmail.com Bougainvilla, Clifton Harbour, Union Island


ISLAND SAILING

YACHT CHARTER

DAY TOURS

 Silent Wings Yacht Holidays

Sail Grenadines

• Day Sails • Mini Cruises • Bespoke Charters Relax, indulge and feel special aboard the elegant S/Y ‘Silent Wings’ – a beautiful, limited edition yacht with smart and comfortable accommodation combining luxury service with great sailing performance. Owners Steve and Sally Ellyatt ensure that you are treated like VIPs for the duration of your trip, whether you sail for the day, or cruise with them to Mustique, Mayreau, the Tobago Cays and beyond. Flexible itineraries and pricing available. Their testimonials speak for themselves . . . Visit the website for more details.

Bareboat, skippered yacht charter, RYA sailing instruction, day trips, special occasions and much more. Sail Grenadines provides a service that’s second to none on a fleet of shiny, comfortable, well maintained yachts. Spend your time aboard one of their luxury yachts, relaxing and visiting the beautiful Grenadine Islands or learn to sail and take part in the sailing as you explore. Swim with turtles, enjoy a lobster BBQ on the beach and experience the adventure of a lifetime. Leave the organizing to them – friendly staff and excellent customer service - nothing is ever too much trouble.

Tel (784) 532-4874

Tel (784) 533-2909

www.yacht54.com onboard@yacht54.com Facebook /Silent Wings Yacht Holidays

YACHT CHARTER

www.sailgrenadines.com | info@sailgrenadines.com The Anchorage, Clifton Harbour, Union Island * New Base in Admiralty Bay, Bequia

LUXURY YACHT CHARTER

RYA SEA SCHOOL

SKIPPERED CHARTER

MONOHULLS & CATAMARANS

BAREBOAT YACHT CHARTER

YACHT PARTNERSHIP

info@sailgrenadines.com

+1 784 533 2909

www.sailgrenadines.com

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  31


St. Vincent 32â&#x20AC;&#x192; Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


T

he multi-island nation of St. Vincent and

the Grenadines is a land of many contrasts. Comprising 32 enchanting islands and

cays, St. Vincent, referred to as “the mainland”, is mountainous and lush, with tumbling waterfalls, verdant rainforests, magnificent coral reefs and an active volcano. Abounding in natural beauty, steeped in history and rich in cultural heritage, St. Vincent is still relatively untouched by mass tourism and remains a wonderful place to get away from it all and soak up some true Caribbean culture.

A Revisionist History of St. Vincent By Louise Mitchell

Giant tree ferns like this one on the Vermont Nature Trail can be found throughout St. Vincent’s lush interior Photo: Wilfred Dederer

The history of the island of St. Vincent is a compelling story of settlement, occupation, resistance, fortitude, battle, attempted genocide and survival. The conquest of St. Vincent eluded the British for far longer than they would have liked. While many islands fell to the Crown in the early years of colonial conquest, the British, having made their first attempt at dominion of St. Vincent by a royal grant of 1627, did not in fact succeed in capturing the island until 1796, and only then after many ferocious battles with a people who fiercely defended their territory. The first hint that one would find of the real threat felt by the British on St. Vincent in the colonial period is the fact that at the two major coastal forts, Fort Duvernette and Fort Charlotte, the main cannon faced inland. The reason for this strategic inward direction of the cannon is that it was the indigenous peoples of the island that the British saw as their greatest potential challengers, not invading forces of the Spanish or the French.

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines St. Vincent  33


The ancient petroglyphs (Rock Art) of St. Vincent, of which there are 18 recorded sites in SVG, are currently on UNESCO’s “tentative list” for nomination to World Heritage. In the early 20th century, Thomas Huckerby, an intrepid archaeological surveyor and British missionary, first revealed St. Vincent’s petroglyphs to the outside world. In his 1914 American Anthropologist article: Petroglyphs Of St. Vincent, British West Indies, Huckerby commented, ‘Throughout the West Indies archipelago, there is nothing of greater archaeological importance than the St. Vincent petroglyphs’. Pictured here, the Layou Petroglyph, just a two minute drive off the Layou main road, has been declared a national heritage site by the SVG National Trust. Photo: Holly Bynoe

Who are the Garinagu? Just who were these proud and valiant soldiers who successfully defended their lands for so long? Who were the indigenous peoples of St. Vincent? Who were its first settlers? The name Garifuna is closely linked to St. Vincent’s history, but just who were the Garinagu people and what is the Garifuna culture? There were no books written at the time of St. Vincent’s earliest settlement. However, extensive archaeological research, conducted under the auspices of the SVG National Trust, has shown that there is evidence of settlement in St. Vincent at least as early as 160 AD, a period known as the ‘Saladoid’ period. The pottery of the Saladoid period found extensively across St. Vincent but in particular in the low lying coastal areas such as Argyle, bears the same patterns of the pottery from the Saladero region of the Lower Orinoco, thereby linking it to that alreadyestablished mainland Amerindian culture. It is believed that our earliest settlers came from the Lower Orinoco region, using dugout canoes. Not only did these successive groups of Amerindians leave behind lots of pottery, but later also petroglyphs – that is rock carvings – which again bear images similar in style and technique to those of the lower Orinoco. There is much historic data on the use of canoes by the Amerindians, as well as their skill as swimmers. As such the peopling of these islands by way of dug-out canoe is well established. The term used by the British for the Amerindians they encountered, who were also described as ‘red Indians’ based on the appearance of their often red-dyed skin, was ‘Carib.’ This was not the term believed to have been used by the actual Amerindians to describe themselves; all historical accounts written from the

34  St. Vincent

period of European contact in St. Vincent – that is post 1650 – were written only by the colonizers, including missionaries who lived amongst the indigenous people. As such, discerning our true history is akin to fitting together a puzzle for which many pieces are missing, deliberately withheld or reshaped. The Amerindians from the Lower Orinoco were not the only ones who arrived in St. Vincent prior to British colonial conquest. As early as 1676, Philip Warner wrote that St. Vincent had “some 3,000 ‘negroes’ and no other island as many indians”. The most popular but least believable story as to how the island came to have negroes was from the wreck of a Dutch ship carrying slaves from the Bight of Benin in West Africa, to Barbados. The ship apparently foundered off the east coast of Bequia in 1675. The story of the shipwreck is what we would call in St. Vincent a ‘nansi’ or a made up story, as it is hard to believe how slaves chained to the bottom of a ship, would have survived a wreck in such high numbers. Other theories include Caribs luring Spanish ships to their shores in order to capture the negroes to enslave them. A third and more plausible theory is that many would have fled from the slavery being practiced on neighbouring Barbados, or from other European held islands in the 17th and early 18th century, to the then land of the free, St. Vincent. There is, in my view, an even more important theory that most shy away from, that being that Africans may have navigated their way to St. Vincent, by simply following the Trade Winds and the natural ocean currents, long prior to the trade in enslaved peoples. The significance of these Africans however, is that it is they who shaped the history of colonial resistance on St. Vincent. It was the


persons of African descent that put up the most successful fight against the British dominion of St. Vincent. The name given to the indigenous who put up the fiercest resistance was the ‘Black Caribs,’ who were reported by the British to be warlike, unlike their “yellow Carib” counterparts. The term ‘Black Carib’ has today become synonymous with the term ‘Garifuna’ (which means “cassava eating people). It is the commonly held belief that the ‘Black Caribs’ came from the marriage of ‘red or yellow Caribs’ from the Lower Orinoco with the Africans. However, another reading of history reveals that the Caribs actually held Africans as slaves, and that there was great animosity between the two groups. It could be therefore that the persons named ‘Black Caribs’ were in fact Africans – and I refer to them hereinafter as Garinagu. This version of history does not deny that there was some intermarriage between Caribs and the Africans, but not to the extent depicted by many historians. Charles Shephard in An Historical Account of the Island of Saint Vincent, reveals that the term “Black Carib” really was a misnomer that really referred to Africans, or as it is put in this text, “the Black Caribs, so improperly though generally termed [really meaning African negroes].” It was in 1796 – after many hard fought wars – that the British came to the conclusion that the Garinagu and the British could not both inhabit St. Vincent, and ordered the deportation of all from the island – an act which created a nation in exile.

Exile in Balliceaux and Belize After many fierce battles and the refusal of the Garinagu to submit to the British, the planters came to the conclusion that “the one or the other must be removed from the island, as they could not both co-exist.” General Abercromby issued orders for the removal of the “Black Caribs” (the Garinagu) from the island and ordered that an entire people be sent into exile – firstly to Balliceaux (an island south of St. Vincent) and then on to Roatan, Honduras and Belize. There was a movement to round up all Black Caribs at Byera, leaving the Yellow Caribs, and prepare them for exile. On 21st July 1796 the first set of prisoners were taken from Calliaqua to Balliceaux. Over a six month period 4,776 prisoners were taken there, of which almost half died. In March 1797 when they were finally deported to the Spanish ruled island of Roatan off the coast of Honduras on HMS Experiment and a flotilla of other vessels, there were only 2,248 remaining, owing no doubt to the deplorable and cramped, diseased conditions in which they lived on this barren island, which today is still uninhabited. Upon arrival in Roatan a declaration of the Carib captain was made saying, “I am not English, nor French, nor Spanish, nor do I care to be any of these. I am a Carib, a Carib subordinate to no one. I do not care to be more or to have more than that I have.” The people who were exiled may have assumed for a while the term ‘Carib’ given to them by the Europeans, but their sense of independence and pride never waned. In exile, the derogatory name Carib was replaced by that of Garinagu, an African name, reflecting the predominant West African origin of this ethnic group.

Cannon at Fort Charlotte strategically aimed inland because it was the indigenous peoples of the island that the British saw as their greatest potential challengers, and not invading forces of the Spanish or the French Photo: Fanny Terrer

The island of Balliceaux, off the coast of Bequia Photo: Tony DaSilva

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  35


The Garifuna music and culture in exile, as expressed by popular singers like Andy Palacio and Pen Cayetano, attracted worldwide acclaim. In a story of triumph after adversity, on May 18th, 2001 UNESCO awarded the title of “Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangibles Heritage of Humanity,” to the Garifuna Language, Dance and Music of Belize.

Garifuna Communities of St. Vincent today

Garifuna leader, John Nero Photo: Kay Wilson

While the “yellow Caribs” were allowed to remain on St. Vincent, the attempted total genocide of the Garinagu on the island of St. Vincent did not happen. The attempted round up of all “Black Caribs” was not totally successful. Approximately 300 Garinagu fled up into the high mountain ranges of St. Vincent, where the British could not reach, and there they have survived and thrived generation after generation, until today, due to their intimate knowledge of agriculture and of nature, in a lush mountainous agricultural village known as Greiggs. The National Trust of St. Vincent and the Grenadines is working with the people of Greiggs to erect a statue and to declare a heritage site in the hills of Greiggs as tribute to the resistance of the Garinagu against exile and genocide. The people of Greiggs have very much kept their history alive and welcome visitors today who wish to explore the lush hills which were their fortress. Meanwhile the descendants of the “yellow Carib” community are found in the villages of Sandy Bay, Owia and Fancy on the northern extremities of the island.

The Garinagu of Greiggs – by John Nero A field of cassava growing on the slopes high in the hills of Greiggs – Garifuna means “cassava eating people” Photo: Kay Wilson

Sweet potato is one of the many crops grown in Greiggs and in the neighbouring village of Lauders All photos: Kay Wilson

36  St. Vincent

The surviving Black Caribs (Garinagu) who were never captured and who never surrendered, were well nestled and settled in the lush and fertile foothills of the Petit Bon Homme mountain in the heights of Massarica (now called Greiggs). The contours of the surrounding ridges and highlands are ideal for heritage and ecotourism as well as organic agro-tourism. Not only do these heights offer a breathtaking view of the Atlantic Ocean, but they are a reminder of the strategic choice of location of this tribe of warriors. Greiggs is the highest village in the valley of Massarica with the mountain peak protecting its back and the lowlands being easy to monitor and defend from excellent vantage points. The Garinagu of Massarica were self-sufficient and fiercely independent. Under the leadership of King, Paramount Chief and military strategist, Chatoyer, Joseph (as Greiggian Garifuna prefer to refer to him), the Garinagu waged war against the British until 1773, when they forced them to negotiate a peace treaty. Among the names of the Garifuna representatives that appeared in this document were Chiefs of no less than eleven Garifuna communities. The delegation was headed by Chatoyer and Jean Baptiste who was referred to as Foreign Minister and whose name represents the best known family name in Greiggs today. Jean Baptiste, the Chief of Massarica, had a daughter named Frances, probably so named because of the Black Caribs’ allegiance to France. Frances was also known as Fannie – an English shortened form of the name.


View to the sea from the Greiggs’ trails

Oral tradition maintains that the infant Fannie was kidnapped by a British soldier named Captain William Greig who was a member of the Southern Regiment which had been transferred from North America to St. Vincent. Evidently, Captain Greig was stationed on what is now called Maroon Hill with his mission likely involving reconnaissance, surveillance and espionage. Captain Greig took Baby Fannie to Government House where the Governor determined to use her to force Jean Baptiste to allow them to conduct a census and a survey. After Jean Baptiste successfully negotiated the retrieval of his daughter, he gave permission for her to adopt the surname Greig. Fannie Greig was given two flags and was instructed to place them where ever she pleased. Fannie placed one flag on Maroon Hill and the other on Housetop the ridge opposite. The territory was then declared “Fannie Greig’s Village”, a name which has now morphed into that of Greiggs. June 19th 1905 is the date recorded on an official Land and Surveys map – the plan declared Greiggs as a Carib Settlement making it an exclusive territory for Greiggian Garifuna. This date is celebrated annually in Greiggs as Greiggs Founders’ Day Agricultural Festival. The festival emphasizes indigenous organic farming practices, since agriculture still remains the mainstay of this highland village to this day. National Heroes Day, (March 14th) a day which recognizes the status of Chief Joseph Chatoyer as the nation’s first National Hero, is also the day when another big festival is held in the village of Greiggs, this time showcasing all aspects of the community’s culture.

Hiking along the Greiggs’ trails Photos: Kay Wilson

Ins & Outs Tip The Greiggs Rastafari Progressive Society will take you on hikes through their beautiful hills, telling you stories of resistance and modern day survival through sustainable agriculture. Heritage and mountain trails include: • William Grounds Head to Pavement (including waterfalls) • Petit Bon Homme to William Grounds Head • Greiggs to William Grounds Head For hiking tours of Greiggs please contact the National Trust at 451-2921 or The Society at 431 8751.

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  37


Discover St. Vincent 38â&#x20AC;&#x192; Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


S

t. Vincent is blessed with verdant mountain landscapes with unspoiled backdrops of brilliant flora, volcanic-rich soil and

alluring crystal clear waters which beckon diving enthusiasts and sailors from around the world. Add to this the easy accessibility of the idyllic islands and deserted cays of the Grenadines, and the entire country emerges as a prime ecoplayground. There’s a smorgasbord of diving adventures, with hundreds of dive sites and year-round good visibility. Abundant reef-life, normally found at 80-ft. in most dive destinations around the world, flourishes here at depths of only 25-ft., with an extraordinary variety of “critters” and tropical reef fish such as angelfish, sargeant majors and peacock flounder. It is little wonder that St. Vincent has become known as “the critter capital of the Caribbean”. The shallow-water reefs surrounding almost every island also make snorkeling an exciting adventure. If land activities are more to your liking, contact Sam’s Taxi & Tours – their exciting and informative tours are the perfect way to get “offthe-beaten-track” and discover the “real” St. Vincent. Guides are always recommended for the various hiking excursions, especially for Trinity Falls (temporarily closed at time of writing), the

Cumberland Bay at Sunset

Vermont Nature Trail and La Soufrière volcano.

Photo: Calvert Jones

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines St. Vincent  39


Exploring

St. Vincent

T There is a captive breeding programme for the endangered St. Vincent Parrot (Amazonia Guildingii) at the Botanic Gardens Photo: Kay Wilson

ake time to explore St. Vincent – a stunningly beautiful island with some dramatic scenery, both along the coast and the interior. You will no doubt discover why the Caribs named it “Hairouna” or “land of the blessed”. From St. Vincent, Bequia and the Southern Grenadine islands can be easily reached by ferry. The Jaden Sun is a fast ferry which provides a comfortable, quick and inexpensive way to see some of the other islands while visiting St. Vincent. Occasionally, during ferry crossings, a school of dolphins will leap and twirl to the delight of passengers.

The Botanic Gardens

Located on 20 acres of land on the outskirts of the capital, Kingstown, the Botanic Gardens are the oldest in the Western Hemisphere. Among the wide variety of tropical trees and shrubs are several breadfruit trees from the original plants brought by Captain Bligh (of The Bounty fame) in 1793. Conservation of rare species of plants has been practiced since the Gardens were founded in 1765. Other conservation works involve the captive breeding programme for the endangered St. Vincent Parrot (Amazonia Guildingii), the national bird. The Heritage Museum and Science Centre is situated just outside the top gate of the Botanic Gardens. Aimed at cultivating interest in biodiversity conservation and heritage preservation, it houses a collection of artefacts, antiques and environmental exhibits. A minimum donation of US $2 per person is requested. Fort Duvernette is not only a special historic site, it is also a place of magnificent natural beauty Photo: Calvert Jones

Fort Duvernette

Also known as Rock Fort, this defensive structure was built around 1800 to protect the town of Calliaqua. About 50 yards off Young Island Resort, it still has many of its armaments intact.

Fort Charlotte

Completed in 1806, Fort Charlotte is on a ridge 600 feet above the sea, providing a magnificent view across Kingstown and down the Grenadines. There are interesting paintings of the Black Caribs’ history by Lindsay Prescott in what used to be the officers’ quarters in the fort. The fort is being restored as an historic site.

Wallilabou Heritage Park

Wallilabou Heritage Park Photo: Christine Wilkie

40  Discover Chartering St. Vincent

This park is located on the leeward (west) coast of St. Vincent, near to Wallilabou Bay and the site of the film Pirates of the Caribbean. It is also close to the centre of Barrouallie, a fishing village known for its harvesting of Black Fish, and Cumberland Bay, one of the best known anchorages on the island. Facilities here include parking, a gazebo, benches, visitor centre, restaurant and bar and pedestrian bridge.


Layou Petroglyph Park

This cultural landmark has several attractions including an Amerindian Petroglyph, Rutland River and the natural vegetation. The site is pre-Columbian in origin, of unknown age. The Layou petroglyph most likely dates to between 300AD and 600AD.

Cumberland Nature Trail The Cumberland Nature Trail passes through the Cumberland Valley, traversing a variety of forest vegetation and farmlands. At the initial section, the trail runs next to a wooden water pipe that transports water to a hydroelectric power plant located in the Cumberland Valley. Its biggest attractions are, however, the rainforest and the opportunity for bird and other wildlife watching. Facilities here include a lookout, washrooms, ticket booth and shelter at the exit.

Layou Petroglyph Park Photo: Calvert Jones

St. Vincent provides a compelling range of scenic surprises – from lush mountainous landscapes and verdant rainforests, to tumbling waterfalls and an active volcano.

Dark View Falls

The major attraction at Dark View Falls is its two waterfalls. A twin fall experience is uncommon for one site. The geology and hydrology giving existence to the falls and the vegetation are also part of the site’s heritage. Lava and pyroclastic flows produced the rock formation and sustain the cascading water. A natural bamboo bridge spans the tumbling river, luring you to the two majestic falls. Facilities include washrooms, a gazebo, viewing platform, changing rooms, pedestrian bridges, two pools and a small refreshment and vending stall.

Black Point Park

Black Point Park is home to the unique Jasper Tunnel. This tunnel is over 300 feet long and links Grand Sable with Byera Bay. The tunnel was ordered built by the British and constructed by slave labour around 1815 to provide an access route for sugar exports. The black sand beach and picnic area is thickly vegetated with coconut trees and is one of the most popular recreation sites on the island. Facilities include a children’s play area, gazebos, washrooms, barbecue pits and a playing field.

Belmont Lookout

This lookout provides visitors with the opportunity to view one of St. Vincent’s most productive and picturesque landscapes, the Mesopotamia Valley. From its heights users can view the scenery in all its beauty before descending into the valley. There is a viewing platform, washrooms and interpretive signage.

Dark View Falls Photo: Christine Wilkie

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  41


Soufrière Trail

La Soufrière Volcano, showing the dome and the northern rim Photo: Rico DeShong

Ins & Outs Tip Elroy Browne gives fascinating tours of the Vermont Nature Trail and La Soufrière volcano, he can be contacted at (784) 492-2191.

La Soufrière shares with Mount St. Helen (USA) the fame of being one of the most studied volcanoes in the world. It rises majestically to over 4,000 feet. A tour to La Soufrière takes you along the picturesque windward (east) coast, through banana and coconut plantations to where the foot trail begins. You travel along steep volcanic ridges verdant with bamboo and tropical trees. This is a day’s journey for energetic hikers, who should leave early in the morning, as the ascent to the crater is about 3.5 miles long. The expedition can continue down the west side trail and terminate 10 to 12 miles later in Chateaubelair on the leeward (west) side. There are gazebos, washrooms, a site office and parking at Bamboo Range on the eastern side of the volcano.

Vermont Nature Trail

Elroy Browne on the Vermont Nature Trail Photo: Wilfred Dederer

The Parrot Lookout, high in the rainforest of the Vermont Nature Trail Photo: Wilfred Dederer

42  Discover St. Vincent

This Nature Trail starts near the top of Buccament Valley and leads through tropical rainforest. There is a chance of seeing (or hearing) the St. Vincent Parrot and the Whistling Warbler, both unique to St. Vincent and strictly protected nationally and internationally. This is also the habitat for the House Wren, the common Black Hawk, Cocoa Thrush, the Crested Hummingbird, Redcapped Green Tanager, Green Heron and other interesting species.


Indian Bay and the Young Island Cut Photo: Calvert Jones

Beaches & Anchorages Leeward Coast

Blue Lagoon - Surrounded by palm trees, with a lovely beach, this area provides a very pleasant anchorage. Moorings are available at Barefoot Yacht Charters. Young Island Cut - The anchorage here, lying in clear water, is a favourite with yachtspeople. Anchor with care, as the current sweeps both ways and the centre of the cut is 65 feet deep. Moorings are available, but stay clear of the sea bed close to Young Island itself. Villa Beach and Indian Bay - These two white sand beaches, divided by a small hilly projection, are easily accessible. Both offer good snorkeling and provide lovely views of Young Island and some of the Grenadine islands to the south. Kingstown - Customs and Immigration can be cleared at Kingstown Harbour between 8:30am and 4pm; there is a tie-up for yachts. Petit Byahaut - Four moorings are available at the resort at Petit Byahaut. There is a small beach, diving and snorkeling are superb. At Dinosaur Head (face of Byahaut point) you will find a 120-foot wall covered in sponges, seafans and coral. Buccament Bay - A well-protected, very calm bay with an excellent anchorage shelf in the eastern corner close to the beach. Exceptionally good snorkeling. The Buccament Bay Resort is located here. Wallilabou - This picturesque bay is a good diving spot and reliable line handlers are available to help secure yachts. Customs and Immigration can be cleared here between 4pm and 6pm (up to 7pm during the busier winter season). Cumberland Bay - This bay is very deep and those boats wishing

to anchor will need to do so with a bow or stern rope to a palm tree. Troumakar Bay - This small well-protected bay, with room for only a handful of yachts, has some mooring posts on the beach. There is good snorkeling along the northern shore. Chateaubelair - The bay here, with its 40-foot deep reef and array of brightly coloured fish, is a snorkeler’s dream. While usually a good anchorage, especially on the eastern half of the bay, the northerly swells in the winter months can cause difficulties. Customs and Immigration clearance is also available in Chateaubelair.

Windward Coast

On the windward side of the island there are a number of beautiful black sand beaches. Brighton Salt Pond – Brighton is a beautiful black sand beach and fascinating mangrove swamp. This site attracts many visitors and is a popular recreational and entertainment spot. Owia Salt Pond – On the northeastern coast, close to the Carib village of Owia. The 2-hour drive runs along the scenic coastline. This unusual gift of nature consists of a huge bathing pool enclosed by lava peaks and ridges. The pounding waves of the Atlantic crash into this barrier and then gently cascade into the pool. Surrounded by mountains and the thunderous surf, the area is an ideal spot for picnics, swimming and snorkeling. Facilities include gazebos, bar, shower and washrooms, children’s play area, craft centre and fire pits. Because of strong undercurrents, most of the Windward beaches are not recommended for swimming.

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  43


Birding & Nature Tours

 Sam’s Taxi Tours Limited

Are you looking for Great Birding Tours? Tours with memorable experiences and equally memorable locations? Science Tours offers you just that! We are specifically dedicated to nature and birding tours. Our guided tours are designed to offer you the best birding and ecological experience our islands have to offer, while ensuring we incorporate the needs of our clients. Our guides are birders, environmentalists and forestry specialists with sound knowledge of the birdlife, unique ecology and local history of our islands.

An award winning company with over 30 years of experience, offering a wide range of services: Tours, Transfers, Agency Yacht Services. From the Leeward to the Windward Coast and down to the Grenadines. You can hike nature trails, dare to climb the volcanic mountain, discover breathtaking panoramic views, swim in our pristine waters and falls with our competent guides. Sam also provides Berth Reservations, Clearance Formalities, Bunkering, Provisioning, Mooring and Office Facilities. STTL believes “an informed traveller is a happy traveller”.

Tel (784) 593-3763

St. Vincent • Bequia • Mustique • Canouan • Union Island Tel (784) 456-4338 | Cell (784) 528-2240 Fax (784) 456-4233

www.scienceinitiative-svg.org info@scienceinitiative-svg.org Kingstown, St. Vincent

Scaramouche - Renowned for good service! This original West Indian Schooner (used in Disney’s ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’), takes you under sail through the heart of the Grenadines… Mayreau, the Tobago Cays and other island gems. Enjoy one of their memorable day-trips out of Union Island; breakfast, a delicious plated lunch prepared by the onboard cook, open bar with a good selection available all day including their legendary Scaramouche Rum Punch. Snorkeling equipment provided and a comfortable tender takes you to the Horseshoe Reef. Enchanting experiences, tailor-made for your dream event. Romantic weddings, corporate functions, film shoots... you name it!

Tel (784) 458-8418 / 455-1362 www.scaramouchegrenadines.com scaramouche@vincysurf.com

44  Discover Chartering St. Vincent

www.samtaxiandtours.com | sam-taxi-tours@vincysurf.com

Heritage Museum & Science Centre The Heritage Museum and Science Centre is situated just outside the top gate of the Botanical Gardens. Aimed at cultivating interest in biodiversity conservation and heritage preservation, this facility houses a collection of artefacts, antiques and environmental exhibits.   A minimum donation of US $2 per person is requested.  

Tel (784) 593-3763

www.scienceinitiative-svg.org info@scienceinitiative-svg.org Kingstown, St. Vincent


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St. Vincent & The Grenadines • • • • • • •

...

Fun and informative tours Whale and dolphin watching Coastal cruises Island Eco Tours Hotel Packages & Private Charters Mustique, Bequia, and The Tobago Cays Contact us today for more info or to book your tour!

TEL : 1 784 457 4477 / 5555 • EMAIL : FANTASEA @ VINCYSURF . COM • WEB : FANTASEATOURS . COM • P . O . BOX 639 , KINGSTOWN , ST . VINCENT

Fantasea Tours An experience to the islands none can beat! A fully qualified Captain, Earl Halbich has been cruising the islands for over 20 years. Their fleet of luxury power boats includes 60-ft. party catamaran, 42-ft cruiser, 38-ft. & 28-ft. Bowens. Their excursions are personalised and informative with the comfort and safety of their guests always in mind. Cruise to the Falls of Baleine, the Grenadine Islands, Sunset Cruises, Dolphin & Whale Watching, Scuba Diving, Land Tours, Private Charters & Celebration Cruises. Unlimited drinks, snorkeling equipment and lots of fun complimentary. Isn’t it time for a Fantasea?

the first theme park in St. Vincent and The Grenadines with a mission To create a family-fun facility, encourage bonding and safe outdoor play. Go-karts, club house bouncer, Pirates Cove and Jungle Kingdom! ...Come play with us! Opening Hours: Saturday & Sunday 1pm to 6pm (public Holidays same hours)

Tel (784) 457-4477/5555 | Fax (784) 457-5577 www.fantaseatours.com fantasea@vincysurf.com Villa Beach, St. Vincent

Arnos Vale, P.O. Box 297 Kingstown, St. Vincent Tel: (784) 493-2667

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  45


meet a Vincy

t” ette and “Cap Vonnie Roud

Mr. Guy, in his element, with students in his garden

Mr. Guy w ith group of st a ud displaying ents a selection of natural fru and flour m it drinks ad a variety of e from tubers

Lawrence “Captain” Guy A National Living Treasure By Vonnie Roudette

Among many extraordinary people who live in our valley community, there’s an exceptionally wise one residing in Top Village, Vermont. Mr. Lawrence “Captain” Guy originally hailed from the neighbouring valley of Marriaqua. As a young man, he crossed, on foot, the mountain that divides two beautiful valleys and descended into Vermont. ‘Capt’ has the appearance of a person in his late 70s but his actual age is 95. My first glance around his house and garden years ago, confirmed that he leads a physically active life, growing nearly all his own food, with ample surplus for others. Visitors to his homestead are showered with homemade treats. Mr. Guy’s vivid recollections of bygone days create a living context of island heritage and community culture. Skilful storytelling along with gesture and expression . . . a glint of the eye . . . he joyfully employs as means of sharing life experiences that have inspired him into a productive old age. His abundant knowledge of traditional cuisine includes producing cassava farine, arrowroot

46  Discover St. Vincent

and cassava starch, fungi, preserves, sweets, and fruit cordials. He makes flour from a variety of tubers and fruits - sweet potato, green banana, breadfruit, cassava, tapioca - that he dries and grinds on any of his collection of meticulously hand-punched zinc graters. He explains that when he noticed so much wastage during the prolific breadfruit season, his solution was to make flour, which stores well and makes a healthier alternative to wheat flour. He now is embarking on a project with the Contemporary Young Artists’ Movement (CYAM) to demonstrate this process from harvest to the finished product. Mr. Guy’s resourceful activities extend even further as throughout his life he has survived through his knowledge of traditional culture. As a youth, he apprenticed as a lumberjack and carpenter, learning his first trade from his father in Mesopotamia. A sought after coffin maker, Capt. crafted the caskets of many departed valley dwellers. His skills in construction have been put to use building many styles of house, including the one he presently occupies, for


which he felled the trees and cut the lumber himself. He is also an accomplished canoe builder, with intricate knowledge of the forest. During World War II, he narrowly escaped death on precarious journeys to and from Aruba by boat. His heroic actions while at sea earned him the nickname ‘Captain’. Not surprisingly, during his travails at sea, he learned how to sew and knit. Back in St Vincent, he managed various areas of Cane Grove and Queensbury estates in the 1950s-60s whilst engaging in his own farming ventures. Such vast and varied experience, adventures and breadth of knowledge, establish Captain Guy as a man of unparalleled wit and intelligence, with awe-inspiring practical skills. Such skills are inseparably part of his daily life, the basis of survival, and are obviously the key to a long healthy life and youthful demeanour. He tells us his range of abilities was once commonplace but are now rarely found in one individual. With their disappearance, so diminish the stories that accompany them - powerful stories of a vibrant culture, based on a multifaceted connection with experience and a creative attitude. These are fading away along with the propensity to live to an advanced healthy old age. The societal network that passed such traditions down from one generation to another has somewhat dismantled in modern life. Mr. Guy has expressed sadness at the disintegration of community culture and at the disinterest of the youth he has encountered in learning practical skills of how to grow food, how to build and make things. He is desperate to pass on all he knows, realising its value in supporting sustainable land use and food security that helps secure our future. As such, Mr. Guy is the ultimate cultural creative; his ingenuity provides working solutions appropriate to his surroundings and neighbourhood. My journey with Mr. Guy through our friendship has been didactic. I have been able to introduce him to young people as a living encyclopaedia, encouraging them to embrace their cultural heritage, reinterpret it with an innovative attitude

and apply it to their daily lives and future careers, rather than dismissing his lifestyle as outdated and inappropriate. This experience has proven that there is common ground on which the older and younger generation can relate. Wise ones are to be found among the old and the young, and a sustainable future lies in bringing the two together as a catalyst for productive action. The prudent within any generation are those who think for themselves, create their own solutions and resist being swept along paths of neglect. They realise that creating solutions through community action is critical to stop further degradation of the environment. Their knowledge and inception are not for them alone, but also to improve the lives of others. Our elder counsels who know well the practical art of resourcefulness are not superfluous to society; they are “our Belonging to landscape and heritage”. While trends of imported agricultural practices gain popularity, we should recognise that the practice of sustainable farming is the foundation of our heritage. I appreciate Mr. Guy immensely for what he has taught me, as we continue working together to preserve indigenous cultural practice through the intergenerational skills’ exchange between youths and elders.

Mr. Guy, still an active farmer at age 95

r adfruit flou Grating bre

Lawrence ‘Captain’ Guy, has farmed sustainably in St. Vincent since 1935. He began making breadfruit flour in 1971 as a means of preserving the crop out of season, later applying his process to other root crops. In 2009, at the age of 89, he teamed up with local artist Vonnie Roudette to pass on his vast knowledge to her students and the Contemporary Young Artists’ Movement. This educational venture has grown into ‘Captain Guy’s Homemade’ product range, a community-based enterprise demonstrating the importance of our past to our health and the economy of our future. For enquiries, product list and recipe booklet, and links to recordings of Mr Guy’s stories please see CYAM’s Facebook page or email: captainguyshomemade@gmail.com. Lawrence “Captain” Guy, celebrating 95 years young!

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  47


Shopping 48â&#x20AC;&#x192; Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


T

he capital city of Kingstown is located

in the south-western part of the island, hugging a mile-wide swath of land on

Kingstown Bay backed up by a ring of green hills and ridges. Nicknamed the “City of Arches”, Kingstown is full of old world charm with cobblestone sidewalks and old brick buildings. Like many Caribbean capitals, much of the colour and bustle of the island can be found in Kingstown’s Market Square at the corner of Bay and Bedford Streets. The area is especially busy on Fridays and Saturdays when vendors bring in loads of fresh produce from farms in the countryside. On Halifax Street you’ll find the old library

building which was donated by the famous American philanthropist, Andrew Carnegie. The new library has moved to Lower Long Lane and the lovely Carnegie Building is now shared by the St. Vincent National Trust and the Alliance Française. While hours of business vary from store to store, they generally open from 8am until noon, 1pm until 4pm on weekdays and half day on Saturdays. Banks normally open Monday to Thursday from 8am to 2pm and on Fridays 8am to 5pm. Ferries to Bequia and the southern Grenadines load and off-load at the Grenadines Wharf, located at the southern end of Bay Street. The adjacent Cruise Ship Complex has docking facilities for yachts as well as large passenger ships. Here you will also find a number of shops Nothing like a little retail therapy whilst on holiday! Photo: Calvert Jones/Courtesy Caribbean Lifestyles Boutique

carrying a range of local art and craft.

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines St. Vincent  49


Stocking Up

Kingstown Market Square Photo: Christine Wilkie

The Market Square in Kingstown is a good place to start, and Saturday mornings are busiest. Brimming with life and authenticity, the market doesn’t merely provide you with fresh produce, but with a real Vincy experience – every purchase is a transaction with a person, and each person has a comment or story to share, if you have the time. And if you’re not sure how to prepare and cook something like breadfruit, just ask! Chances are you’ll get several recipies from several different vendors. If you are in need of groceries, the family owned and operated C.K. Greaves Supermarkets is a good choice. With branches located in Kingstown, Arnos Vale and Pembroke, they stock an extensive variety of imported and local food products, including dry goods, canned items, frozen meat and poultry, fresh fruit and vegetables. Greaves is renowned for offering a reliable delivery service to Bequia and Union via the ferries, and will also deliver to some of the docks. Shoppers can conveniently place their order via telephone or email and pay by credit card. Once the goods have been packed into boxes, the order will be put onto the next ferry and the client notified of its expected arrival, ready for collection. And if you’re a serious foodaholic looking for top quality products and seeking those hard to find items, then The Gold Doubloon Market Place is the place for you. Located at the Blue Lagoon Hotel and Marina in Ratho Mill, they have a well-stocked wine room, a good selection of gourmet food items and there is also a small chandlery with parts and supplies for the yachting community. Here you’ll find good food, good wine and good, friendly service!

St. Vincent Distillers

T   he Gold Doubloon

Created by skilled craftsmen, these fine spirits, whose roots originated in the sugar cane regions of St. Vincent, eventually found a home at the Mt. Bentick Estates in the early 1900’s. Here, nestled amid lush agricultural country, abundant in pure mountain water, generations of blendmasters have carefully reproduced these distinctive rums: forged by time in oaken barrels and sought after by true connoisseurs. Well-priced spirits, including champagnes, wines, liquors and beers.

Located in the Blue Lagoon Yachting Centre complex at Ratho Mill in Calliaqua, the Gold Doubloon Market Place is a specialized grocery store, yacht provisioning and chandlery outlet which carries an excellent selection of gourmet staples including imported meats, seafood, cheeses, fresh produce, fine chocolates and homemade Vincy treats. They also have their own walk in temperature controlled wine cellar which is stocked with some excellent wines and champagnes. Yacht Provisioning orders can also be received directly at the shop and extensive orders filled from their nearby cold storage warehouse and delivered to the dockside in affiliation with their sister company, Choice Meats.

Tel (784) 458-6221

Tel (784) 432-2600

www.sunsetrum.com | svdl@vincysurf.com Kingstown, St. Vincent

Doubloonmarket@gmail.com Blue Lagoon Marina, Ratho Mill, St. Vincent

50  Shopping Chartering in St. Vincent


Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadinesâ&#x20AC;&#x192; 51


Caribbean Lifestyles Chic... Cool... Relaxed...

The effortlessly sophisticated, yet informal, Caribbean Lifestyles boutique at Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina carries a wonderful selection of stylish, relaxed, resort-wear and holiday essentials for women along with casual menswear. Owner, Eloise Gonsalves, uses her experience and sense of fashion to keep her finger firmly on the pulse of current trends. She knows exactly what looks and feels fabulous in the tropics but can also be easily worn in the summer back at home. Kaftans, tunics, cover-ups and sundresses all in beautiful tropical hues that work just as well with the climate as they do for the occasion. You’ll also find a gorgeous selection of accessories including beach bags and jewelled sandals. Open daily.

Tel (784) 534-7272

Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina, Ratho Mill, St. Vincent

M   cAllister Designs

McAllister Designs is a design firm that represents a new and innovative approach to creativity, offering a plethora of solutions to meet your Design, Art, Branding and Photography requirements. Services are offered for the following: • 3D & 2D Murals with Creative Conceptualization • Outlet Branding with Creative Conceptualization • Interior Decorating & Design • Graphic Design • Fine Art Sales & Commissioning • Landscape Photography & Creative Wedding Photography

Tel (784) 533-2783 | (784) 492-1616

www.mcallisterdesignssvg.com info@mcallisterdesignssvg.com Casson Hill, Box 1778 Kingstown, St. Vincent

C.K. Greaves Supermarkets At C.K. Greaves, they are proud to provide a variety of brands, imported and local. There are numerous food and grocery items to meet your family’s needs and tastes. Visit C.K. Greaves Supermarkets where “We’ve got more of what you’re looking for”. Opening Hours for the Kingstown and Arnos Vale stores: Kingstown: Mon-Thurs 8am-5pm; Fri 8am-7pm and Sat 7am-7pm. Arnos Vale: Mon-Thurs 8am-8pm; Fri 8am-9pm; Sat 7am-8pm and Sun 8am-11am.

Tel (784) 457-1074 Kingstown, Arnos Vale & Pembroke Fax (784) 458-4602 Arnos Vale www.ckgreaves.com ckgreaves@vincysurf.com

52  Shopping in St. Vincent


Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadinesâ&#x20AC;&#x192; 53


Dining & Nightlife 54â&#x20AC;&#x192; Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


F

rom modest rum shops to delightful cafés and wine bars, seaside to countryside, casual to elegant, quiet romance to

lively entertainment, a quick snack to lavish buffets... St. Vincent sports an eclectic range of dining options, where you can find everything from boisterous roadside bars serving tasty local fare, to casual beachside grills and pizza joints, internationally known fast food chains like Subway and the more elaborate, gourmet cuisine found in some of the island’s finer dining establishments. Hotel restaurants are generally open to nonresident guests and further increase your choices. Please note that reservations are always appreciated. Along the Villa and Indian Bay strip is a delightful amalgam of local and international restaurants. Moorings in the Young Island Cut and at Blue Lagoon make many of these easily accessible to yachtsmen. In and around Kingstown you will also find great choices for tasty Caribbean cuisine. A number of hotels feature live weekly entertainment with local steel bands and string bands. You would be wise to check with the venue beforehand for up-to-date information. You can also check the SVG Hotel & Tourism Association’s weekly What’s On calendar at www.svghotels.com/whats-on – an excellent

St. Vincent offers a range of unique restaurants to suit every taste, with a good selection of outdoor dining options featuring fresh local seafood

source of up-to-date information on local events and activities.

Photo: Calvert Jones/Courtesy Café Soleil

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines St. Vincent  55


Young Island

F  rench Verandah

Young Island is a 13-acre island where a Carib chief once resided and as the story goes, gave it up to Sir William Young for a white horse. Little did he know that his island would in years become Young Island Resort, a tropical garden. You’ll soon find that life is casual, dress is informal but no shorts or T-Shirts for dinner please.  The only thing for you to do is make decisions at each meal of what you would like from the menu.  Food is exquisite and there are six delicious breads to choose from.

Idyllically located directly on the water at Mariners Hotel, the French Verandah offers delectable continental cuisine with a fusion of Caribbean flavours. The wine cellar provides just the right selections to enhance your dining experience, while the friendly service and charming seaside setting make this restaurant a popular choice with locals and visitors alike. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Also located at French Verandah is Felly Belly Smoothie Bar, a great place to enjoy healthy, freshly made smoothies.

Tel (784) 458-4826 | Fax (784) 457-4567 www.youngisland.com frontdesk@youngisland.com

Tel (784) 453-1111 | Fax (784) 457-4333 www.marinershotel.com frenchverandah@vincysurf.com Mariners Hotel, Villa Bay, St. Vincent

 Sunset Shores Restaurant

B    eachcombers Restaurant

Sunset Shores Restaurant, Bar & Grill is situated on beautiful Villa Beach overlooking the sparkling Caribbean Sea. They serve tantalizing cuisine which combines West Indian and continental flavours: lobster, fish, and other seafood with locally grown vegetables. Lighter items also available such as appetizers, soups, sandwiches and salads; roti, burgers and fries. Relax upstairs at the bar or lounge, or seaside at the pool bar and see why they are famous for their cocktails and very special rum punch - “the best on the island”. Open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with happy hour from 6 to 7pm. Join them on Saturday evenings for their delicious BBQ buffet!

Beachcombers Hotel’s open-air beachfront restaurant, bar and pool deck is set in lush exotic gardens with an exquisite menu featuring West Indian and International flavours. Serving the freshest seafood, vegetables and fruit, they are open every day from 7:00am until last orders at 9:30pm. Royals, Prime Ministers, Presidents, business persons, sports personalities and leisure seekers alike make Beachcombers Hotel, Bar and Restaurant their home away from home - hope you will do the same.

Tel (784) 458-4411 | Fax (784) 457-4800

www.beachcombershotel.com beachcombers@vincysurf.com Villa Beach, St. Vincent

www.sunsetshores.com | info@sunsetshores.com Villa Beach, St. Vincent

Tel (784) 458-4283 | Fax (784) 458-4385

56  Dining Chartering & Nightlife in St. Vincent


Enjoy Island Hospitality at its best with good friends, great food and beautiful surroundings at Sunset Shores Restaurant, Bar & Grill. We serve the freshest fish and lobster, fine meats and tempting desserts. Join us for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Happy hour begins daily at 6pm. Group reservations call: T: 784 458 4411 Villa Beach, St. Vincent info@sunsetshores.com www.sunsetshores.com

RESTAURANT

Enjoy True Vincentian Dining!

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadinesâ&#x20AC;&#x192; 57


G   rand View Grill Located on Indian Bay Beach, specializing in grilled seafood, steaks, chicken and burgers, mouth-watering pizzas and desserts to die for! On Fridays their “Jerk Night” makes them the real hot spot! The Grill is a great place to meet old friends and make new ones while sipping on a special seaside cocktail or sampling one of their shots! Wi-Fi available. Open daily from 3pm. Closed on Mondays. Major credit cards accepted.

Tel (784) 457-5487 | Fax (784) 457-4174 | VHF 68

W    ilkie’s Wilkie’s at Grand View Beach Hotel is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. All of their menus feature the best of Caribbean home cooking combined with just the perfect twist of international flavours and flair. They offer yummy desserts and a small, wellselected wine list. Reservations for dinner are preferred. Major credit cards accepted.

Tel (784) 458-4811 | Fax (784) 457-4174

www.grandviewhotel.com grandview@vincysurf.com Indian Bay, St. Vincent

www.grandviewhotel.com grandview@vincy­surf.com Grand View Beach Hotel, Villa Point, St. Vincent

Sapodilla Room

B   asil’s Bar & Restaurant

The Sapodilla Room at Grenadine House is considered one of the foremost intimate dining venues in St. Vincent. Fine linens and table-wares are set in the elegant 18th Century room where the culinary team propose revealing compositions fusing Caribbean and Continental cuisines. The adjoining West Indies Bar provides a relaxed setting for aperitifs or after dinner drinks, with its gallery of black and white movie stills as a back-drop. A private dining room is available for up to 8 persons.

Tel (784) 458-1800 | Fax (784) 458-1333

www.grenadinehouse.com stay@grenadinehouse.com Grenadine House, Kingstown, St. Vincent

Visitors to St. Vincent are invited to visit Basil’s Bar, located in Kingstown, in a lovely old 18th century building known as ‘Cobblestone’. Here you can enjoy delightful cocktails in airconditioned comfort – the staff are most welcoming and the meals are among the best on the island. Full catering services are now offered for private functions. Open Monday through Saturday 8:00am until 10:30pm, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. And now open every Sunday from 3:30pm to 10:30pm. Monday - Friday Basil’s features an excellent luncheon buffet. Wi-Fi available.

Tel (784) 457-2713

www.basilsbar.com Cobblestone Inn, Bay Street, Kingtown, St. Vincent

58  Dining Chartering & Nightlife in St. Vincent


Café Soleil

C P   aradise ompany R Nestaurant ame & Spa

One of the mainland’s most popular restaurants, Café Soleil has become synonomous with fabulous food and fantastic ambiance! Whether you’re looking for something light and tasty, like their boutique coffees and café-made pastries, or a dinner feast with their succulent lobster (seasonal), Café Soleil offers the perfect blend of options to fit your pocket and your mood in a casual waterside setting at Blue Lagoon Marina. Open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 7am to 10pm. Visit them today and everyday while visiting one of the world’s most exquisite destinations, St. Vincent & the Grenadines.

Ovit, Located nobitibus at Paradise quist et Beach aboremHotel venimet onlaborro lovely tenet Villa aut Beach, eturi con this charmingque restaurant at ducia the water’s Enjoy the casual, nusaped re quaesits et ma cusapeedge. pres ni tor secusaerum relaxed their upesed a delightful choice aut que atmosphere rerum, omniswhile id eles ea chef debisserves qui aut quis doloribus of et local cuisine withlame an international flair.velles Sunset cocktails has as et, es vent utat dollabore elique restess itatentiis become both locals and visitors. di Don’t miss esci Grillin’ pa id quoa tradition cumendefor riorrum dipsam invelibus ommos in with the Captain Nights, featuring their signature steak or nonsequi occat on quiFriday blabori officia qui beatemporem estrum fresh grilled lobster. quibust pliqui optaerc hillabo. Quis prepe sinto cum in reperov There is aearum full service spaetonofficid the premises, making easyuttoeribus enjoy itatustio sunt ex estrum quam quiit aut an afternoon pampering along with a delicious evening corit, nus est,of volutecto blaborios rerem quas eumlunch ni teordoloresci meal. Conference Facilities and Wedding packages.

Tel (784) 456-8550 /Cafesoleil1 Blue Lagoon Marina, Ratho Mill, St. Vincent

Tel (784) 457-4795 xxx-xxxx | Fax (784) xxx-xxxx

www.paradisesvg.com www.website.com info@paradisesvg.com email@email.com Paradise Beach Hotel, Villa Beach, St. Vincent Address

Lobster Season in St. Vincent & the Grenadines runs from September 1st to April 30th Photo: Kay Wilson Photography

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  59


Where to Stay

60â&#x20AC;&#x192; Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


A

ccommodation in St. Vincent offers something for every taste and budget, whether you are vacationing with the

family, honeymooning, or on a business trip. Running the gamut from cozy guest houses and self-catering apartments, to family-friendly beach front hotels, a luxury all-inclusive resort and a splendid new marina complex. In the south of the island, the coastal area between Indian Bay and Blue Lagoon is a popular tourist district and quite a number of hotels and apartments are located here. The St. Vincent & the Grenadines Hotel and Tourism Association (Tel: (784) 458-4379) is a non-profit organisation, established in 1968 to encourage closer fellowship with hoteliers on the mainland and throughout the Grenadine islands, to promote good relations between hotels and business houses and to foster a good working relationship with the Government. Their website, www.svghotels.com, is easy to navigate and offers a wealth of information on all aspects of the island. The online version of this publication can be found at www.insandoutsofsvg.com – it is an

invaluable resource for anyone planning a trip to St. Vincent & the Grenadines and offers live links to all advertisers’ websites and e-mail. Fans of St. Vincent & the Grenadines are invited to follow us on Facebook/insandoutsofSVG where we do regular posts about the destination. Young Island is a privately owned 13-acre tropical island luxury resort, located 200 yards from St. Vincent’s southern shoreline Photo: Wilfred Dederer

For a synopsis of accommodation options, facilities, contact information and rates, see the Accommodation Guide on pages 146-151.

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines St. Vincent  61


B    eachcombers Hotel A lovely family-run boutique hotel nestled in a lush, tropical botanical garden. The pool and deck overlook Villa Beach, with breath-taking views of the islands beyond. Beachcombers has 48 rooms of 6 different categories which cater to a variety of travel and comfort needs. Close to the pool is the newly renovated open air restaurant which serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Newly built is a 300 person, state of the art conference centre, one of the largest on the island. Yesim’s Boutique offers a wide range of travel-essentials along with sun-block, swimsuits, towels and souvenirs.

Tel (784) 458-4283 | Fax (784) 458-4385 www.beachcombershotel.com beachcombers@vincysurf.com Villa Beach, St. Vincent

W   hite Sands Cottages A collection of beautiful luxury 1, 2 and 3 bedroom A/C cottages nestled within a lagoon, surrounded by a tranquil bay, quiet beaches and lush greenery. Also, 2 brand new 2-bedroom cottages located on Crown Point, Bequia. All available for long or short term rentals. For a truly magical and unforgettable stay in SVG contact them for further information and rates.

Mariners Hotel Tranquil and secluded, Mariners is idyllically situated on Villa Beach where guests enjoy magnificent sunsets. The 21 beautifully designed guest rooms are exquisitely furnished, each with private balcony, air-conditioning and all modern amenities. At the water’s edge, the popular French Verandah Restaurant features a wonderful blend of local and international cuisine. Complimentary Wireless Internet & Internet Café. “Stay with us”

Tel (784) 457-4000 | Fax (784) 457-4333

www.marinershotel.com frontdesk@marinershotel.com Villa Beach, St. Vincent Reservations: Ralph Locke Islands - U.S. & Canada: (800) 223-1108 | Fax (310) 440-4220 caribisles@aol.com

Young Island Young island is a 13-acre island where on the white sand beach there are chaise lounges and mattresses for sunbathers.  There are hammocks hung under thatched roofs to give you that “man Friday” feeling where you can nap, read a book and forget about the outside world. Play tennis, windsurf, snorkel or just laze on a pedalo. Sit around the pool or have a dip.  Walk around the island and gaze at the views.  Go sightseeing on the mainland, the choice is all yours.

Tel (784) 458-4826 | Fax (784) 457-4567 Tel (784) 528-9855 / 433-3334

www.whitesandsinc.net | www.lookyonderbequia.com whitesandsinc@gmail.com Ratho Mill, St. Vincent / Crown Point, Bequia

www.youngisland.com | frontdesk@youngisland.com

Reservations: UK & Europe: toll free 800-141-2859 Ralph Locke Islands - U.S. and Canada 800-223-1108 Fax (310) 440-4220  Reservations Email reservations@youngisland.com

62  Where Chartering to Stay in St. Vincent


An Impossibly Romantic Private Island …

The Grenadines, St. Vincent, W.I. For more information call 784-458-4826 • Fax: 784-457-4567 www.youngisland.com • frontdesk@youngisland.com US & Canada - Tel: 800-223-1108 • Fax: 310-440-4220 UK & Europe - Tel: 800-141-2859 • reservations@youngisland.com

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  63


Grand View Beach Hotel

P    aradise Beach Hotel & Spa

Grand View Beach Hotel is situated at Villa Point with a commanding view of the Grenadines and beyond. Eight acres of tropical gardens surround the hotel. It offers 12 deluxe and 5 luxury rooms and 2 honeymoon suites, with privacy and warm, personalised service. There are 2 fine restaurants, Wilkie’s and Grand View Grill, a racquet and fitness centre, swimming pool, complimentary wifi available in guest rooms as well as in the lobby, pool and bar. Cable TV, room service and a resident artist with painting studio.

For Caribbean hospitality at its best, visit the Paradise Beach Hotel located on Villa Beach, just two miles from the airport and four miles from Kingstown. The tastefully decorated rooms and apartments offer ensuite bathrooms, air-conditioning, wireless Internet, cable television, mini fridges and room safes. There is a beach bar, conference room, spa, boutique and gift shop on the premises. Enjoy Caribbean and International dishes overlooking the ocean, join them every Friday night for their famous Bar-B-Que. Visit their tour office for an exciting range of sea and land tours.­­­

Tel (784) 458-4811 | Fax (784) 457-4174

Tel (784) 457-4795

B   arefoot Suites

S    easplash Apartments

Barefoot Yacht Charters is the one-stop shop for visitors to St. Vincent. Beautiful apartments, each with ocean-view verandah, bathroom, a/c, cable TV, free Wi-Fi and fridge. Just a few steps away is Driftwood, their popular Mediterranean Restaurant with air-conditioned wine bar and internet café.  They also offer the only water-sports centre in St. Vincent – kayaks, surf boards, stand-up paddle boards, windsurfers and snorkel equipment are all available for rent at great rates.

Seasplash is a slice of paradise nestled in the Indian Bay valley, offering all the comforts of home. This friendly, family-run property features seven self-contained apartments set in a peaceful and tranquil environment just a few steps away from beautiful Indian Bay Beach, a lovely white sand beach washed by the Caribbean Sea. With rates starting at US$60.00/night, Seasplash offers excellent value in a friendly and comfortable setting, just 15 mins. drive from the city and 5 mins. from the airport, with restaurants featuring local and international cuisine within easy walking distance.

Tel (784) 456-9334/9526

Tel (784) 431-1085/457-5017 | Fax (784) 451-2777

www.grandviewhotel.com grandview@vincysurf.com Villa Point, St. Vincent

www.barefootyachts.com barebum@vincysurf.com Barefoot Yacht Charters, Blue Lagoon, Ratho Mill, St. Vincent

www.paradisesvg.com info@paradisesvg.com Villa Beach, St. Vincent

www.seasplashapartments.com info@seasplashapartments.com Indian Bay, St. Vincent

64  Where Chartering to Stay in St. Vincent


Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadinesâ&#x20AC;&#x192; 65


Hotel Alexandrina

Sunset Shores Beach Hotel

Perched on a hillside overlooking the Caribbean Sea, Hotel Alexandrina is located in a secluded, tranquil, and tropical ecofriendly environment surrounded with seasonal fruits. This modern and elegant 27-room apartment suite hotel is a prime location for a business conference, banquet, retreat, family reunion, sports team or simply for relaxation. Restaurant, bar, meeting rooms, fitness room, pool, parking and FREE internet access are on premises. Just 10 minutes from the beach, 15 minutes from the airport and a few minutes walk to public transportation and supermarket.

Relax and restore, or be active and explore the natural treasures that St. Vincent offers. Sunset Shores is a family owned 32room hotel located on coveted Villa Beach and surrounded by three acres of lush tropical gardens. The fresh water pool is nestled in a private courtyard, just steps away from the tranquil, turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea. Tastefully appointed rooms offer private bath/shower, A/C, cable TV, radio, coffeetea making facilities, in-room safe, telephone, private patio and complimentary Wi-Fi. Conference facilities are available for business functions and the hotel offers packages to cater cocktail parties or romantic weddings.

Tel (784) 456-9788

www.hotelalexandrina.com hotelalexandrina@aol.com P.O Box 104, Prospect, St. Vincent

Hillside Apartments Hillside Apartments are located just a short walk from Villa Beach and approximately eight minutes from the Airport.  There are six self-contained apartments. The apartments are fully furnished and include A/C, Cable TV, Wireless Internet, daily maid service,  breakfast bar and pool. Relax on the balcony as you take in the spectacular view of several of the Grenadine Islands.

Tel (784) 457-5134 Fax (784) 457-4678 www.hillsidepartmentssvg.com hillside@vincysurf.com Villa, St. Vincent

Tel (784) 458-4411 | Fax (784) 457-4800

www.sunsetshores.com | info@sunsetshores.com Villa Beach, St. Vincent

Richview Guest House  Rosewood Ideally located within close proximity to the airport, town and beach. The 14 tastefully furnished rooms comprise kitchenettes, living room, patio, cable TV, A/C, fans and maid service. Great value packages include FREE airport transfers and continental breakfast. Perfect for singles, couples, families and groups.

This modern apartment hotel is located in Villa, just 3 mins. walk to the beach and 3 miles from Kingstown.  Easy access to public transportation. Our self-contained units are beautifully furnished, each opening onto a spacious patio with fantastic ocean views. Rooms are air-conditioned, with private bath/ shower, cable TV, telephone and kitchenette. Daily maid service, laundry, fax, internet and free Wi-Fi. Fine restaurants nearby.

Tel (784) 482-9500 or 533-4137

Tel (784) 457-5051

www.richviewguesthouse.com richview06@yahoo.com Sion Hill Bay, St. Vincent

66  Where Chartering to Stay in St. Vincent

www.rosewoodsvg.com rosewood@vincysurf.com Villa, St. Vincent


Villa Beach, St. Vincent T: 784 458 4411 F: 784 457 4800 BEACH HOTEL

Island Hospitality At Its Very Best!

www.sunsetshores.com info@sunsetshores.com

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadinesâ&#x20AC;&#x192; 67


Grenadine House Set in residential Kingstown Park, overlooking Kingstown towards the Grenadine Island of Bequia, Grenadine House is the perfect choice for discerning travellers, offering elegant comfort and the very best of Vincy hospitality. The beautifully appointed guestrooms are all air-conditioned and feature choice linens, free high-speed Internet, direct telephone, Cable Television, Room Service and more. Enjoy a fine dining experience in the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s elegant Sapodilla Room, a casual meal at The Terrace restaurant, or simply relax in the intimate surroundings of the West Indies Bar & Lounge. Two meeting rooms are avilable for seminars, corporate functions and special occasions. Other facilities include: Swimming Pool, Gym and the Oasis Spa.

Tel (784) 458-1800 | Fax (784) 458-1333 www.grenadinehouse.com stay@grenadinehouse.com Kingstown, St. Vincent

68â&#x20AC;&#x192; Where Chartering to Stay in St. Vincent


Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina A wonderful Hotel and Marina facility created by a sailor for sailors and all lovers of the sea. The property has been recently refurbished and upgraded with fresh modern rooms, a restaurant, café and beach bar. The hotel rooms face either the Marina, the sea, or the pool which is located in the hotel’s beautiful, tranquil, tropical gardens. Several Yacht Charter companies operate out of Blue Lagoon, which is also an official port of entry, and there are a number of specialty shops stocked with supplies of all kinds.

Tel (784) 458-4308 | VHF 16/68 www.bluelagoonsvg.com info@bluelagoonsvg.com Facebook /bluelagoonhotelandmarina Blue Lagoon, Ratho Mill, St. Vincent

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  69


Bequia 70â&#x20AC;&#x192; Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


L

Bequia’s outstanding natural harbour, tucked deep into Admiralty Bay, and richly stocked waters made it a perfect location for the widespread development of marine activities Photo: Wilfred Dederer

ying just nine miles to the south of St. Vincent, Bequia is the largest of the Grenadine islands – a compact seven square miles with about 5,000 warm and friendly inhabitants eager to welcome visitors. The island’s history has been deeply entwined with the sea for generations and the age-old traditions of boat building, fishing and whaling are still evident. The island caters well to visitors and, despite its size, goes far beyond the usual prerequisites of a tropical island holiday. Bequia, along with the other Grenadine islands, appears to have first been inhabited around 200 AD by superbly skilled pottery-making Amerindians (referred to by archaeologists as “Saladoid”), who originated from the South American mainland. Successive migrations of other groups from the mainland followed, until a final migration by the Caribs shortly before the arrival of Columbus in the Antilles. This resulted in the descendants of the earliest inhabitants being ultimately over-run and a new, culturally mixed population emerged. Interestingly, it was the Caribs who gave Bequia its name – “Becouya”, meaning “Island of Clouds”, and from whom the Europeans also inherited words like hurricane, canoe and hammock. When the French seized Grenada from the Caribs in 1650, they also took control of the Grenadine islands from Carriacou in the south to Bequia in the North. St Vincent, however, which was then home to an estimated 10,000 Caribs, remained technically “neutral”, with fierce resistance from its indigenous people deterring any European settlement until the early 18th century.

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines Bequia  71


Bequia fisherman, Patrick Hazell casting his net off the beach near Moonhole Photo: Wilfred Dederer

Rugged individualism and resourcefulness still flourish here; the sea and maritime activities will always be the lifeblood of the island and its people.

The island’s outstanding natural harbour, tucked deep into Admiralty Bay, and richly stocked waters made it a perfect location for the widespread development of marine skills – fishing (including whaling), boat building and navigation. Bequia enjoys the distinction of having once been pre-eminent in the region’s whaling industry in the last quarter of the 19th century. It’s no surprise that many of its inhabitants today can trace their heritage to two of the island’s great whaling patriarchs, Joseph Ollivierre and William Wallace Jr., whose whaling stations on Bequia quite literally saved the life of the island and its people. William Thomas (“Old Bill”) Wallace introduced whaling to Bequia around 1870 after spending an apprenticeship on a New England whaleboat. He subsequently purchased two second-hand Yankee whaleboats to start his whaling operation; one of them, the much revered “Iron Duke”, still exists today and is one of the favourite contenders at the annual Bequia Easter Regatta. Under international agreement, St. Vincent and the Grenadines has been granted aboriginal whaling rights by the International Whaling

72  Bequia St. Vincent

Commission because it is considered a true cultural tradition, providing food for the islanders. It allows Bequia’s small group of whalermen to harpoon no more than four whales per year. If a whale is caught, the entire island comes out to get their portion of the catch and share in the many exciting versions of the fishing tales told. Rugged individualism and resourcefulness still flourish here; the sea and maritime activities will always be the lifeblood of the island and its people. Boat building remains an honoured calling whether in life or miniature size, using tools and techniques that have been passed down from generation to generation. From the earliest days of Bequia’s settlement and until quite recent times, boatbuilding has laid at the heart of the island’s success. Critical to the survival of Bequia’s small, close-knit community, this home-grown “industry” was the cornerstone of the development of interisland trading, whaling and fishing – all of which sustained the island and its people in the difficult post-sugar years and on into the twentieth century. Bequia was not just blessed with a superb natural harbour and quiet, protected shores


on which to build; it also enjoyed a vital abundance of White Cedar for use in construction. Bequia’s first British settlers in the 1760s included a small but crucial core of carpenters, shipwrights and mariners whose skills – passed down, shared and augmented – were to form the basis of Bequia’s maritime strength in future generations. Between 1923 and 1990, seventy-one major trading vessels were built in Bequia – almost half the total for the entire country in that same period. With the majority built in the 1930s and 40s, the list of the thirty-seven builders reads like a roll call of Bequian families: Gooding, Sargeant, Adams, Mitchell, Wallace, Ollivierre, Hazell, Tannis, Cozier – their sheer numbers alone amply demonstrate the breadth of both the skill and the industry that supported the community. Today, with new technologies and materials superseding traditional methods of marine transport and its associated activities, classic, old-time boat building in Bequia is now something of a rarity. Thankfully though, there are a few who are still building, working hard at keeping this tradition alive and quietly proud to call themselves Bequian boat builders.

Independence & Progress In 1979, St. Vincent and the Grenadines gained independence within the British Commonwealth. Bequia and the rest of the Grenadines is governed from the “mainland” island of St. Vincent, whose governmental system is based on the Westminster-style of parliamentary democracy. For many years, Bequia could only be reached by sea and it continues to be a favourite destination for yachtsmen from around the world. Vessels of all shapes and sizes fill the harbour, from luxury yachts and motorised boats to old wooden schooners and small cruise ships. The opening of the J.F. Mitchell Airport in 1992 has made the island far more accessible, with regular scheduled and charter flights from Barbados. Bequia has enormous appeal, and although visitor traffic has increased in recent years, the island remains relatively untouched. Here, change takes place at a snail’s pace without altering the magic and charm which prevails on this dazzling, sun-drenched little isle.

The schooner Gloria Colita was built in 1939 by shipwright and sea captain Reginald Mitchell, father of Sir James Mitchell, son of shipwright and master mariner James ‘Harry’ Mitchell and grandson of shipwright William ‘Old Mitch’ Mitchell. She was named after Reginald’s 7 year-old daughter, Gloria Colita. Reginald’s grandfather, ‘Old Mitch’ was apprenticed to Canouan-based English shipwright Benjamin George Compton in the 1860s and 70s, where he met and married Compton’s daughter. The Compton/Mitchell family is said to have built more than 68 boats in the Caribbean up to 1950. At 165 feet long (excluding the bowsprit), 39 feet wide and 178 tons, the three-masted Gloria Colita is believed to be the largest wooden schooner to have been built in the Lesser Antilles. The frame was built from carefully selected curved limbs of local white cedar; the three masts were hand cut and shaped from massive trunks of Douglas fir, imported from Canada. The launch, from the Mitchell family home (now the Frangipani Hotel) on the shore of Admiralty Bay in February, 1939, took 21 days, with manpower and the tide finally lifting her off the sand. She successfully traded between British Guyana, Venezuela, Cuba and Alabama, with cargos of rice, sugar and lumber. In January 1940, whilst on a passage from Mobile, Alabama to Cuba with a cargo of lumber, the Gloria Colita was sighted in the Bermuda Triangle by a US coastguard plane; she was floating half-submerged and abandoned. There were no survivors.

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  73


Orson “Balaam” Ollivierre, with the Semple Cay whaling station in the background Photo: Kay Wilson

After One Time Is Another Moving from Whaling to Whale Watching on Bequia the story of Orson Ollivierre ~ By Louise Mitchell “It was not your choice, it was not the choice of the Government, it was the choice of myself,” rang out the carefully chosen words of self-made Bequia icon Orson “Balaam” Ollivierre, on his decision to stop whaling and to venture into whale watching. Orson’s decision in February 2014 to finally hang up his harpoon came after a lifetime of bravery and determination, and an absolute absence of fear in all that he does. Grandson of whaler Louis Napoleon Norman Ollivierre Jr., and son of whaler Grafton Ollivierre, Orson remembers walking home from Paget Farm Government School to watch out for the return of the whale boats. He recalled how in those days the whalers would be out at sea for many hours, often being towed by a whale for 4-5 hours, which left the children and families at home awaiting their return with great anxiety and excitement.

It was not Orson’s father, but rather his father’s cousin, “Uncle” Barton Ollivierre who first lured young Orson into whaling. When he was only 13 years old, Barton said to Orson: “Grafton”, (calling him after his father’s name), “come go out with us!” – clearly having noticed the willingness in the eyes of the youngster. And so Orson set out in the whaleboat Dart for his first whaling journey. When the boat arrived in Mustique to meet up with the other whalers who were on the lookout for the whales, his father declared, “You bring my son in the whale boat?” Nevertheless, his father allowed him to sit next to him during the watch, marking the start of his 26 year-long whaling career. Orson, born on 15th May 1955, was the seventh child of Vie Mitchell and Grafton Ollivierre. Vie, daughter of the famous “Harry” Mitchell (grandfather of Sir James Mitchell) and Margueritte Davis, died during childbirth at age 29, leaving her

meet a Bequian 74  Bequia


eldest daughter Gita to raise all of her siblings, including baby Orson. Vie Mitchell’s twin brother Haakon became one of the great boat builders of Bequia, adding to an already noble roster going back many generations. Orson left school at the age of 15 and learnt the skills of carpentry and boat building from his large, extended family, as was so often the case in Bequia. Together with his father, he built his first boat the “Maxano” ferry at age 17, which went on to transport goods and passengers up and down the Grenadine islands for many years. While he engaged in other trades, the call of the sea was always there lurking in the background of Orson’s life. From time to time he would go out on the whaleboat “Why Ask” with Barton’s brother, Athneal Ollivierre, known as “the greatest whalerman of Bequia.” He was also always encouraged by his “Uncle” Barton, who in 1987 called him and asked if he would take over the whaleboat Dart, saying that if Orson did not, it would be lost. Despite his family’s long connection to whaling and to Dart, Orson felt that his children were too young and he was not ready to take up whaling, so Dart was sold in 1989, leaving only Athneal’s Why Ask in the whaling business. From as early as 1989, Orson recalls that Athneal Ollivierre began saying that he would soon stop whaling. Orson further recalls that Athneal asked him to continue the tradition, telling him he would leave him his boat. It was from about this time that Orson, now aged 35, started to go out more and more frequently with Athneal, who also asked Orson to find a new crew for Why Ask. Orson recruited Eustace Kydd, Dan Hazell, Ephraim Bynoe, Norman Raguette, Michael Adams and lookout Harold Corea, while Athneal continued to head the team with Orson’s support. Orson notes that during the years 1988 to 1991 there were no whales landed in Bequia. Although Athneal was getting old, he was still strong enough to “pelt the harpoon”, and this he continued to do. Orson tells the frightening tale of a whaling expedition gone badly wrong on February 14th 1992. “As we approached Pigeon Island there was a whale with a tail about 16 feet wide which was simply floating peacefully on the surface. We sailed up to it and Athneal took up the harpoon. Next thing we knew, the whale took the entire boat under water, leaving every sailor afloat. The rope had burst and the whale escaped with the harpoon.” In 1994 Orson again heard rumours that Athneal was quitting, but this time was going to put up his boat in his yard, as a museum piece for visitors to see. It was from his cousin Harold Corea that Orson learnt that Athneal was no longer going to leave his boat to him. “You have to get your own boat.” Harold advised him. Despite being pained that he did not hear a word directly from Athneal, Orson consulted his father who told him, “Son, if it is your will, it is your way.” And so Orson set about on his new journey to build his own whaleboat. He kept inviting Athneal to see the progress being made on the building of the boat, but he never came, sending others instead to look at it and report on its progress. Orson was grateful that a film crew came from the United States and made a financial investment in his new venture.

Friendship Bay with the whaling station on Semple Cay just off shore Photo Wilfred Dederer

Orson’s first whaling expedition, at the age of 13, was on Barton Ollivierre’s whaleboat Dart, pictured here on the shore of the whaling station at Petit Nevis, just off the south coast of Bequia Photo courtesy Bill Wulff

Athneal Ollivierre (standing right) in Why Ask, with lance in hand. Midshipman Ephraim Bynoe (with second lance) and bow oarsman Orson “Balaam” Ollivierre (in the water) prepare to sew up the mouth of the whale, prior to towing it ashore Photo: Pat Mitchell

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  75


Retired whaleboat Why Ask on the shore of Port Elizabeth, now being used by the Bequia Traditional Sailing Academy to teach youngsters how to sail Photo: Wilfred Dederer

The three brothers left to right: Athneal, Louis and Barton Ollivierre on the beach at Friendship, demonstrating the use of the shoulder gun, with whaleboats Trio and Dart in the background Photo courtesy Pat Mitchell

76  Bequia

In January 1996, Orson’s whaleboat Rescue was christened and launched. He named it Rescue as he felt that he was rescuing the dying tradition of whaling, and was very pleased when Athneal came to the christening. Orson then went about selecting a young crew. From 1996 Rescue started whaling, alongside Athneal’s Why Ask, now captained by Arnold Hazell at Athneal’s request. In 1998 Orson struck and landed his first whale. On that day Why Ask was out whaling with Rescue but Athneal himself was at home sick. By Orson’s account Athneal closely followed Rescue’s progress from the shore, and was the first to be at the whaling station the next morning. But taunted by cries of “This is not your whale, this is Orson’s whale!” he left as tensions escalated. Athneal would continue whaling until his death in July 2000. Why Ask was then retired as a whaleboat, and Arnold Hazell took to whaling in his own boat, Perseverance, built originally to race and launched as a whaleboat in 2002. In the last year in which Orson whaled, he killed four whales, three with Rescue and one assisting Perseverance. A quota of four whales is allowed by the International Whaling Commission (IWC), on the basis that this activity is “aboriginal” whaling. In actual fact,

whaling was started by Scottish and French descended settlers in Bequia in the latter half of the 19th century and was never conducted by the first settlers of Bequia, the Amerindians from South America. And as Orson himself pointed out, it was the very slow process of harpooning the whale to the point of death that originally got the Bequia whalers into difficulty with the IWC, who saw the practice as ‘inhumane’ based on the time taken until death. Orson explained that this is what first led to the introduction of speed boats to assist with the hunt and to reduce the time to death to as little as fifteen minutes. However, the use of engine-driven speed boats means that whaling is no longer done by the ‘traditional’ methods which have consistently been used as an additional argument in defence of the IWC quota. The fact that Bequia whaling does not meet the IWC’s own stipulations was overlooked for years by the IWC and the world. With Athneal himself giving the impression to the IWC, the SVG Commissioners, and indeed his own community in Bequia, that whaling in Bequia would end with his demise, the IWC allowed the quota to continue despite the lack of justification for it. When the Bequia quota came up for a vote at the IWC in Panama in 2012, it was bundled together with USA whaling and Russian whaling which, for political reasons, could not be opposed by Europe. As such, the quota continues through predominantly political strategy at the IWC level; it will once again be up for renewal at the IWC meeting in 2018. After failing to convince the IWC to not support the quota in Panama, arguing that whaling in Bequia is neither subsistence nor aboriginal, I approached Orson, as Chair of the National Trust, to ask him if he would consider retiring from whaling. I proposed instead that he use his knowledge of the habits of the amazing humpback whale and its migration patterns to start up a whale-watching operation in Bequia. In our discussions I learned that for years Orson had wanted to stop whaling. He no longer had the feeling to go out to hunt; to him, the way of the people had changed, and the sense of cooperation and community was lost. He was troubled by how things were being managed at the whaling station on Semple Cay and the chaos that ensued after a catch, where


Humpback whales frolicking off the coast of Paget Farm on the south coast of Bequia in 2015 Photo courtesy the SVG National Trust

once everything had rules that were automatically followed. For Orson, times had irrevocably changed, and the great Bequia tradition and spirit of whaling that he sought to “rescue” and maintain was no longer present. It came as no surprise then that Orson welcomed the opportunity given to him to travel to an IWC Whale Watching symposium in Australia where the whole world of conservation was opened up to him. He was warmly embraced by all and enjoyed hearing about whale watching. “Why not give it a try in Bequia?” he thought. Since Orson stopped whaling in 2013, only one whale has been caught - in 2015. Orson’s explanation is that the whalers of the past had a stronger state of mind than today’s whalers. More humpback whales are now being sighted than ever before. In fact last year, the humpbacks seemed to sense that our waters are now safer as two humpacks frolicked for hours just outside of the whaling village of Paget Farm, almost seeking to demonstrate how successful the whale watching venture could be. The people of Bequia watched the spectacle in awe and wonder. And so, with that same courage with which he once took up a harpoon, Orson has put his harpoon down – and with no regrets. Despite facing much public criticism on Bequia for his decision, he has never wavered. With the support of the National Trust and the Mustique Charitable Trust, Orson is converting an existing boat into a whale-watching tour boat, and will launch his whale watching tour business in February 2016. When asked to predict what the reaction of Bequia people will be to his new venture, he wisely says, “we will wait to see”. But if there is anyone who knows the habits of the whales and where and how to find them, it is Orson Ollivierre. There is a saying in Bequia, “after one time is another.” It appears that we are one great leap closer to fulfilling the dream of former Chairman of the St. Vincent & the Grenadines National Trust, Dr. Earl Kirby, who longed for the day when we would capture the majestic humpbacks with our cameras and not with harpoons.

Ins & Outs Tip: For an adventure in whale, dolphin and bird watching with Orson contact the SVG National Trust at (784) 451-2921.

The National Trust Whale Watching project is also supported by Fundación Cethus of Argentina. Louise Mitchell is a Trustee the SVG National Trust and Director of the SVG Preservation Fund. www.svgpf.com | Tel: (784) 494-1001

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  77


Discover Bequia


B

eyond the lovely beaches, quaint little villages and charming waterfront bars and shops, there is plenty to fill your

days in Bequia so be sure to take some time to explore this special little island. Visitors are often surprised to find that on an island of only seven square miles, when you scratch the surface just a little, you’ll discover an intriguing history, a fascinating natural environment and, above all, a wonderfully charming human element.

Getting Around Whether on land, or on the sea, Bequia has a bountiful array of places to explore and a dependable range of transportation options are available for visitors to the island. Taxis are widely used for getting around and the island has a reliable, if not unique fleet of openbacked taxi vans. The operators are known for their friendliness and courtesy and during the day you can usually find them gathered under the almond trees in the harbour, sporting colourful names like “Humble Servant”, “Challenger”, “Fat Man” and “Jump In”. Most, if not all, taxi drivers carry cell phones so remember to ask for a business card if you’d like to use them again. They also operate with VHF radios and can be reached on Channel 68. Many taxis offer two to three hour island tours, complete with running commentary! Rates are fixed and are listed in the Bequia Tourism Association Office but it’s always advisable to agree on the fare and duration beforehand – and whether your quote is in EC$ or US$. Visitors often choose to A compact seven square miles, Bequia is a neatly packaged bundle of variety with something different to see around every corner Photo: Wilfred Dederer/Courtesy Lime House

use the same taxi driver throughout their stay – many lasting friendships have been built this way!

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  79


Port Elizabeth is nestled along the waterfront of Admiralty Bay

Ins & Outs Tip The pretty harbour town of Port Elizabeth is simply enchanting – full of character (and characters)! Be sure to check out the island’s talented artists and craftspeople as you wander around town.

All photos: Wilfred Dederer

80  Discover Bequia

“Dollar Vans” are closed-in mini vans which have a regular “run” to most parts of the island. Often crowded and rarely without on-board music, they easily represent the cheapest way to get around – Bequia style! The main setting down point in Port Elizabeth is by the ferry dock and you can enquire at the nearby Tourism Office for the routes. The normal “stops” are unmarked, so look out for people gathered by the roadside, or simply hail one as it approaches and ask them if they are going your way! Fares are collected once on board and vary from EC$1.50 to EC$5 per person depending on the length of journey. Water taxis are plentiful in and around Admiralty Bay. Like land taxis they also monitor VHF Ch. 68 and provide a pick-up and drop-off service to yachts in the bay. They will also take passengers to and from Princess Margaret and Lower Bay beaches. You can find them around the dinghy docks at Frangipani and Gingerbread or at the main dinghy dock in Port Elizabeth, across the road from the Friendship Rose office. The cost is about EC$15-$20 one way to the beaches, less for a trip across the harbour. Hiring a vehicle is an excellent idea as this allows you to explore at your own pace. The island is small and easy to navigate so it’s almost impossible to get lost! A Visitor’s Driving Permit (EC$65) must first be obtained from the Revenue Office in Port Elizabeth, where you will be asked to present your own National Driver’s Licence or a full International Driver’s Licence. Alternatively, if you book your rental vehicle in advance, your agent can do this paperwork for you.

Exploring Bequia Port Elizabeth is nestled along the waterfront of Admiralty Bay and rises into the surrounding hills. A number of brightly coloured shops, houses, restaurants, small hotels and guesthouses complete the captivating scene. While strolling around the harbour, look out for the “House of Parliament” – the local name given to the shaded waterfront area “under the almond trees”, where taxis assemble to collect and deposit their passengers. Bequians of all walks of life gravitate here to discuss the topic of the moment, usually politics or some colourful island gossip. Discussions can be loud and passionate, deviating quickly and unpredictably, often interspersed with boisterous bouts of laughter. The cool and inviting Chameleon Café is a wonderful spot to sit and enjoy a cup of freshly brewed coffee and take in the “comings and goings” of the harbour.


The Belmont Walkway meanders along the waterfront of Admiralty Bay starting at the ever-popular Porthole Restaurant and Bar in Port Elizabeth and weaving its way south, past Tommy’s Restaurant (stop for one of their famous Margaritas!) and the Frangipani Hotel, a favourite hang-out and watering hole for all visitors to Bequia – their famous cocktails and Thursday night barbecue and “jump-up” are not to be missed. Fondly referred to as the “Frangi”, it is the birth-place and family home of Sir James “Son” Mitchell, the former Prime Minister of St. Vincent and the Grenadines. As the walkway winds its way along the shoreline, you will pass the Whaleboner Bar, with its impressive whalebone archway and dockside seating, and the splendid Gingerbread Hotel, with its pretty façade of intricate “gingerbread” fretwork. In addition to the restaurant upstairs, the complex also features a pretty waterfront café serving freshly brewed coffee, tea, fresh juices and a wonderful selection of breads and cakes from early morning till sunset. A great place to relax and unwind, they have wireless Internet so you can enjoy your coffee while checking in with the outside world! And nextdoor, at Maranne’s Ice Cream Shop you can sample the best homemade ice cream, sorbet and natural yogurt on the island.

Bequia’s two first-rate dive shops, Bequia Dive Adventures and Dive Bequia are located just beyond the Gingerbread Hotel. Bequia has some of the best dive sites in the entire Caribbean, so why not take the plunge? Stop by and enquire about their one-day resort dive courses, you won’t regret it! A number of inviting and inexpensive little bars and restaurants pop up all along the walkway. For an ice cold beer and really delicious rotis and local food, stop by the Green Boley. Just a stone’s throw away is the legendary Mac’s Pizzeria. For over 30 years they have been serving what many consider to be the best pizza around! A few steps further along is the Fig Tree Restaurant, popular for its authentic local cuisine. Guarding the harbour at the north end of Admiralty Bay, and offering panoramic views of Port Elizabeth all the way around to Lower Bay and West Cay, is the site of Hamilton Fort, built in the late 18th century. On this side of the bay you’ll also find the fishing village of Hamilton and the outstanding L’Auberge des Grenadines Restaurant, where you are guaranteed a fabulous meal and a warm welcome by owners, Jacques and Eileen Thevenot. Open for lunch and dinner, their live lobster pool guarantees you fresh lobster straight from the water during the lobster season, and out of season they serve delicately flavoured fresh-water lobster from the rivers of St. Vincent.

The Princess Margaret Trail

You can now follow the Belmont Walkway all the way along to the delightful Princess Margaret Trail which connects the Walkway to the splendid beaches at Princess Margaret and Lower Bay.

The delightful Belmont Walkway meanders along the waterfront of Admiralty Bay

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  81


Friendship Bay

A visit to the Bequia Boat Museum above Friendship Bay gives a fascinating insight into the traditions of boat building and whaling on the island. For guided tours call (784) 457-3649 or 458-3086

Blow Hole at Moonhole

The Plantation Tours at Firefly Plantation Hotel give visitors the opportunity to sample many of the seasonal fruits and vegetables and learn about the history of the old Spring Plantation All photos: Wilfred Dederer

82  Discover Bequia

On the south-east coast is Friendship Bay and St. Hilaire Point, where many a Bequia boat has taken shape along the shores, including the Friendship Rose, which operated as the main ferry between Bequia and St. Vincent for 20 years. She is now on a more “relaxed” schedule of day trips to the neighbouring islands. The new Bequia Boat Museum is located on a slope overlooking Friendship Bay and houses an interesting collection of unique Bequia boats and boat building tools of a bygone era. West of Friendship Bay is the peak that locals refer to as ‘Ma Peggy’. This nearly 900-ft. hill offers an invigorating hike to the reward of a splendid view of Admiralty Bay, with St. Vincent to the north and the Grenadine islands to the south. Further along the winding south side road is the quaint and colourful fishing community of Paget Farm and the James F. Mitchell Airport which was opened in 1992. Just about a mile past the airport is Moonhole, the extraordinary vision and creation of American, the late Tom Johnston, which resulted in a private development of over twenty imaginatively built, “free-form” homes that cling to the natural curves of the hillside. There are no windows, no doors – just openings. The ceilings and walls tend to go their own way, no straight lines, some even have trees growing right in the living room! The windward side of the island is also the most fertile, and it was here in the 18th and 19th century that several of Bequia’s nine sugar plantations were situated. Firefly Plantation Hotel at Spring is a charming boutique hotel set in the grounds of a 225 year old, 30-acre working plantation. The “Great House”, where the elegant yet informal bar and restaurant are now located, is built on the foundations of the original 18th century sugar plantation’s estate house. Plantation Tours of the estate are now being offered, giving visitors an excellent insight into the fascinating history of the old Spring Plantation and the adjoining sugar mill and indigo processing plant. Visitors will also have the opportunity to sample many of the seasonal fruits and vegetables and learn about the various crops, herbs and flowers you will encounter. The Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary is located beyond Spring and Industry, at Park Beach. Here, “Brother” King nurtures endangered Hawksbill turtles, of all sizes, until they are able to fend for themselves in the open ocean. When you’ve had your fill of exploring on land, be sure to take advantage of one of the exhilarating day cruises operating out of Bequia. With approximately 30 surrounding islands and cays to explore, all of them within relatively close proximity, it makes perfect sense to take in some sailing adventures while in Bequia. See our Chartering section (pages 26-31) for information and contact details of a number of the leading charter boats operating day and overnight charters in the Grenadines and also overleaf (page 85) for boats operating out of Bequia.


Beaches & Anchorages Bequia’s harbour town of Port Elizabeth is the most popular Port of Entry for yachts visiting St. Vincent and the Grenadines and a favoured anchorage of yachtsmen from all over the globe. Admiralty Bay is considered one of the best harbours in the Caribbean because of its deep protected “U” shape, its calm, clear waters and ample depth, which allows large boats to come very close to shore for repair and general maintenance. When mooring in the bay, be sure to stay clear of the ferry route to the main jetty in Port Elizabeth and check with the Bequia Tourism Association Office for information about moorings and yacht garbage disposal. There are excellent marine services to be found in and around Port Elizabeth with convenient dinghy docks located at Frangipani, Whaleboner, Gingerbread and in Port Elizabeth itself, where there is easy access to showers, laundry services, Internet facilities and grocery stores. The wonderful new Princess Point Trail now connects the Belmont Princess Margaret Beach Walkway to the popular Princess Margaret Beach (also known as Tony Gibbons). There is a snorkeling platform at the base of the trail, so be sure to take advantage of the excellent snorkeling to be enjoyed along the cliff and around the headland. This bay is also a popular anchorage with yachties as it’s generally calm with a glorious stretch of beach and sparkling azure water. (Note, yachts are required to anchor at least 200 yards off shore for the safety of swimmers). There is a dinghy dock which makes it an effortless drop-off point for water taxis and Jack’s Bar offers an extensive à la carte menu with influences of Mediterranean cuisine. At the far end of the bay there is a natural rock archway leading into a small, sheltered cove–another good area for snorkeling lies just beyond. One of Bequia’s best beaches is just over the next headland at Lower Bay, a long stretch of pure white sand with crystal clear water, excellent for swimming, snorkeling and sunbathing with beach chairs available for rent. A stretch of on-shore reef provides an area of shallow pools along the shore making it especially suitable for children. Situated in the middle of the bay is Keegan’s Beachside Bar & Restaurant and De Reef Beach Bar & Restaurant, both are long-time favourites with locals and visitors alike, they offer tasty local Lower Bay dishes and drinks at reasonable prices. After a lovely day at the beach you may have worked up an appetite, so wander over to La Plage, a rustic beachside restaurant serving French cuisine with a Caribbean twist – it’s a wonderful spot to take in the sunset and then linger on for dinner. On the south side of the island, Friendship Bay is a sheltered, crescent shaped bay with lots of shade. It provides an alternative anchorage for yachts, with great conditions for snorkeling, scuba diving and windsurfing. The stylish Bequia Beach Hotel is located here – enquire about their day passes and take advantage of the hotel’s first class facilities. Along the eastern side of the island – a stretch of often deserted coastline, shaded by wooded hills and countless coconut palms – you’ll find the unspoilt, reef-protected windward beaches at Spring, Industry, (also known as Crescent Beach) and Park, all excellent for picnics, snorkeling, kitesurfing and windsurfing. Crescent Beach is the best for swimming, with the delightful waterside Sugar Reef Café offering cold drinks, delicious lunches and candlelit dinners. While Spring and Industry are easily reached by road, the wind-swept beaches at Ravine and Hope are far more remote – but a dream for those who like to find the island’s hidden treasures. You should be prepared for a rough, downhill hike to the beach (and back up again!). Caution should be taken when Crescent Beach swimming at Hope and Ravine as there can be strong currents at times. All photos: Wilfred Dederer

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  83


S  unset Tours Moke Rentals

Jump In Taxi & Jeep Rentals

Sunset Tours offers well-maintained, automatic or manual, airconditioned jeeps, or open-air mini mokes perfect for touring the island. They will deliver to the airport, ferry dock or directly to your hotel or villa. Explore the island on your own, or let Sunset Tours assist you with self-guided tours. A Visitors Driving Permit must first be obtained from the Revenue Office in Port Elizabeth at a cost of EC$65. You will be asked to present your own National Drivers Licence or a full International Drivers Licence.

Operated by Bequian brothers, Raleigh and Brendon Bynoe, Jump In Taxi offers prompt, reliable and courteous service – whether it’s a trip to the beach or a trip to the shops. They also offer comprehensive tours of Bequia, including scenic trips to the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary, The Boat Museum and the traditional fishing village of Paget Farm. If you let them know in advance they will meet you at the airport or ferry dock. Call for more details.

Tel (784) 458-3782 | (784) 457-3086 Cell (784) 530-6833 | (784) 593-3631

Tel (784) 457-3086 Cell (784) 530-6833 | (784) 593-3631

stilltrying_6833@hotmail.com

stilltrying_6833@hotmail.com

ISLAND SAILING

B   equia Dive Adventures Ron Williams and his team of experienced dive instructors have been diving these waters for many years and are familiar with the best sites in the area. A full service PADI & SSI facility with 11 specialties, they focus on small group dives with the emphasis on personalized service, catering to the individual needs of each diver. They offer a free introductory PADI “Discover Scuba” course along with various dive packages; snorkeling trips can also be arranged. Snorkeling and scuba equipment rentals available. Situated on the beach, right next door to Mac’s Pizzeria. 3 Dives Daily – 9.00am, 11.30am and 2.30pm.

Tel (784) 458-3826 | VHF 68/16

www.BequiaDiveAdventures.com adventures@vincysurf.com Belmont Walkway (next to Mac’s Pizzeria), Bequia

84  Discover Chartering Bequia

YACHT CHARTER

DAY TOURS

Sail Grenadines

Bareboat, skippered yacht charter, RYA sailing instruction, day trips, special occasions and much more. Sail Grenadines provides a service that’s second to none on a fleet of shiny, comfortable, well maintained yachts. Spend your time aboard one of their luxury yachts, relaxing and visiting the beautiful Grenadine Islands or learn to sail and take part in the sailing as you explore. Swim with turtles, enjoy a lobster BBQ on the beach and experience the adventure of a lifetime. Leave the organizing to them – friendly staff and excellent customer service - nothing is ever too much trouble.

Tel (784) 533-2909

www.sailgrenadines.com | info@sailgrenadines.com Admiralty Bay, Bequia


G   renadines Schooner Cruises

F  irefly Plantation Tours

Discover the beautiful turquoise waters of the Grenadines with The Friendship Rose. Daily cruises to the Tobago Cays Marine Park and the island of Mustique. Enjoy breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea & cake, with drinks all day - all fully inclusive. Dive or snorkel the Tobago Cays, sip champagne at Mustique, explore world famous destinations. Cruise packages also available combining villa and hotel accommodation, inter-island connections and bespoke private cruises throughout the Grenadines.

A unique and tasty one of a kind experience to see a real Caribbean plantation. Discover 30 acres of orchards producing mangos, bananas, breadfruit, guava, grapefruits, Bequia plums, and a variety of wonderful and exotic crops. A guided tour of the plantation and historic sugar mill lasts approx. 45 minutes and includes a brief history. You will get to sample many of the fruits and vegetables in season, crush your own sugar cane juice and learn about coconuts, bananas and uses of the various herbs and flowers you will see. Children welcome. Bookings suggested.

Friendship Rose - 100ft. Local Classic Sailing Schooner Tel (784) 457-3888 or (784) 495-0886

Tel (784) 458-3414 | Mobile (784) 430-6813

Luxury Yacht Mini Cruises

Wind and Sea

Imagine ... from your yacht, you can see pure, crystal clear turquoise waters and unspoilt sandy beaches, the breeze cooling you as you soak up the sun on the cushioned foredeck. Your crew discreetly preparing for your trip ashore in the tender, the delicious aromas of coconut cake for tea ... just for you and your guests! No rush, you know you will be back onboard for cocktails and a sumptuous dinner ... perhaps some of that tuna you caught when sailing earlier? Contact Silent Wings for a truly memorable sailing experience!

Established in 1984 and located in the heart of Clifton Harbour at Bougainvilla Hotel in Union Island, Wind and Sea offers day charters sailing throughout St. Vincent and the Grenadine islands. Guests can be collected from anywhere in SVG and taken to their choice of islands while being served drinks by the excellent staff. Lunch may be a buffet on board or on one of the islands. They are also port agents for several cruise ships in the Grenadines. Bougainvilla is a wonderful facility for yachtsmen with dock, water, ice and restaurant “L’Aquarium” serving fresh seafood everyday. Free Wi-Fi service.

sail@friendshiprose.com www.friendshiprose.com

...Mustique, Tobago Cays, Mayreau

S/Y Silent Wings Tel (784) 532-4874

www.yacht54.com Port Elizabeth, Bequia

www.fireflybequia.com | info@fireflybequia.com Spring, Bequia

Tel (784) 458-8344/8678 | Cell (784) 493-3128 www.grenadines-windandsea.com www.grenadines-bougainvilla.com windandsea@vincysurf.com Bougainvilla, Clifton Harbour, Union Island

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  85


Weddings Photo: Wilfred Dederer/Courtesy A Caribbean Wedding Location: Sugar Reef Bequia

O

in Paradise

ver the years, St. Vincent and the islands of the Grenadines have become a popular choice for destination weddings. As a result, there are now a number of professional wedding coordinators, catering companies and photographers, along with a trusted network of reputable and reliable suppliers, whose combined experience and local knowledge ensure that the couple and their guests have ample time to relax and enjoy these lovely islands, at their leisure. St. Vincent and the Grenadines possess all of the necessary ingredients to ensure a perfectly romantic wedding day. There are countless venues from which to choose: sandy white beaches, a hilltop at sunset, sailing around a picturesque harbour, a lush tropical garden surrounded by colourful blooms, a charming island church, or even a deserted island â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the choice is all yours. You can be confident that when you entrust your wedding to any one of these experienced consultants or planners, they will look after every detail. The list of services offered is extensive and includes arrangements for obtaining the wedding licence, selecting

a minister, providing witnesses, bridal bouquet, boutonnieres, floral arrangements, photographer, videographer, a traditional wedding cake, and for a special touch, a steel pan duet can be arranged to play at your wedding dinner.

What Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll Need

St. Vincent and the Grenadines is one of the few countries where you can obtain a marriage licence after being in the country for only one day. This licence is issued in one day and can be obtained through the office of the Solicitor General in Kingstown which is open Monday through Friday, 8:30am to 3pm. The following documentation is required: valid passports; if either party is divorced, both original and copy of Decree Absolute; in the case of a widow/widower, original and notarized copy of Death Certificate of spouse; if adopted, certificate is required. Couple must be resident in St. Vincent and the Grenadines for a minimum of one day, not including the day of arrival, before applying for a marriage licence. All documents must be in English. If the originals are in another language, they must be translated into English and certified.

86â&#x20AC;&#x192; Weddings Chartering in St. Vincent & the Grenadines


Ravenala House, Bequia

A Caribbean Wedding

Bequia Photography

Need help planning your wedding in St. Vincent & the Grenadines? Suzanne Gabriel has over 15 years local experience specializing in Wedding Coordination, offering personal assistance from your initial enquiry throughout your wedding planning, including accommodation, license, officiant, photos, florals, etc. Whether you are planning a large formal event or an intimate beach wedding for two, Suzanne’s knowledge and understanding of the islands, combined with her creativity and attention to detail, ensure that your wedding day (and honeymoon) will be a truly magical and memorable event! Check website for packages and further details.

Wilfred has been capturing life in Bequia with his cameras for over 25 years. His portfolio includes quadcopter aerial photography, weddings, villa photography, landscapes, special events and family portraits, examples of which have been widely published both regionally and internationally. Digital portfolio selections tailored to your particular requirements are available on request.

Wedding & Honeymoon Consultant: Suzanne Gabriel Tel (784) 528-7444

by wilfred dederer

Tel (784) 457-3649 Cell (784) 532-9553

www.acaribbeanwedding.com | suzanne@acaribbeanwedding.com

outhouse@vincysurf.com Outhouse Graphics, Bequia

G   renadine Weddings

Caribbean Wedding Photography

Imagine your wedding in the most stunning natural locations throughout the Grenadines. Consider Mustique, Mayreau, The Tobago Cays or the coral sand island of Mopion. Exquisite locations combined with full long established service from our wedding team.

by edson reece

Charter a Classic 100ft. Traditional Sailing Schooner for an exceptional event or after wedding cruise. The Friendship Rose provides a unique environment for your wedding —Speak to our team to discuss your bespoke wedding.

Edson Reece specializes in wedding and portrait photography. He has a keen perception for capturing ‘that moment’ - whether it’s an intimate gaze, friends just having a grand time or that second you say “I do.” Edson creates memorable images that tell a story. His relaxed and friendly approach instantly puts his subject at ease, allowing him to capture them in a completely natural and candid manner. If you’re looking for extraordinary and creatively vibrant images from a photographer who aims to exceed expectations, choose Edson Reece Wedding Photography - Your Memories Are Worth It.

Tel (784) 457-3739 0r (784) 529-8046

Tel (784) 528-9992

Deserted Island Weddings ...Beach Weddings ...Villa Weddings... Classic Schooner Weddings ...

www.grenadineweddings.com enquiries@thegrenadinescollection.com Port Elizabeth, Bequia

edsonreeceweddings@gmail.com www.emagescaribbean.com Facebook: /tropicalweddings Instagram: @caribbeanweddings

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  87


Shopping 88â&#x20AC;&#x192; Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


T

he harbour town of Port Elizabeth is the centre of the island’s commerce. At its heart is the main jetty which, with

the frequent sailings and arrivals of passenger ferries and cargo boats, is the closest thing to hustle and bustle you’ll see here. Island ferries to St. Vincent are usually very punctual – you can set your clock by them (you will find ferry schedules on page 24, or you can check at the Bequia Tourism Office). Both The Admiralty and Bequia Express offer regular sailings every day, to and from St. Vincent, in the comfort of air-conditioned lounges or up on deck in the fresh sea breeze. The Jaden Sun is a ‘fast ferry’ which operates between St. Vincent, Bequia and the southern Grenadine islands – a comfortable, reliable and fast way to explore the other islands. Next to the jetty is the Bequia Tourism Association office, so if your first stop is for information, their staff will be pleased to help you. Along Front Street the yellow Government building houses the Revenue Office and Post Office, Harbour Master, Customs and

There’s never a shortage of fresh produce in Bequia, much of it comes directly from the fertile farms in St. Vincent and local kitchen gardens in Bequia, so you can be sure of its freshness Photo: Wilfred Dederer

Immigration. Enquire here about yachting and mooring regulations.

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines Bequia  89


For banking, the Bank of SVG off Back Street, opens daily from 8am-1pm and on Fridays re-opens from 3-5pm; there is also an ATM for your convenience. Note that US$ travellers cheques and cash are accepted by most establishments. Credit cards are accepted by most hotels, restaurants and boutiques, but be sure to check first before you shop or dine! As the gateway to the beautiful sailing grounds of the Grenadine isles, Bequia offers a full range of services and supplies to the marine traveller. There are a number of skilled craftsmen at boatyards around the harbour offering services from minor repairs, to a custom-built boat. Marine outfitters and chandleries stock all you will need for boat repairs and maintenance, from hardware and electrical, to paints and outboard engines. Some chandlers offer duty-free prices to visitors, as do suppliers of all your fishing and diving needs such as Lulley’s Tackle Shop. Whatever your tastes, Port Elizabeth is your one-stop harbour for all you will need to provision your yacht or stock your kitchen for a self-catering holiday. Supermarkets offer baked, canned and dried goods, a good selection of frozen foods and a variety of drinks, wines and spirits. Many residents and regular visitors to Bequia shop at Doris’ Fresh Food located on Back Street. Doris’s smiling face is always there to welcome customers and the shop is wellstocked with fresh local produce, an impressive range of imported cheeses, patés and international delicatessen selections, fine wines and a tempting array of specialty items including smoked fish, pesto and even a full range of sushi ingredients.

The harbour town of Port Elizabeth Photo: Wilfred Dederer

BEQUIA THE PLACE TO SHOP! NEW LOCATION! -

BACK STREET, PORT ELIZABETH. (Formerly Le Petit Jardin).

Wir sprechen Deutsch Credit Cards welcome!

Fine Wines & Cheeses Imported Pastas & Meats

Daily Fresh Herbs & Huge Selec tion

of Gourmet

Produce

Products

Yacht Provisioning & Delicatessen

Special 8-grain bread • Fresh Croissants daily

VHF 68 Tel (784) 458-3625 Fax (784) 457-3134 Back Street, Port Elizabeth - Bequia - SVG, W.I.

90  Shopping Chartering in Bequia

D   oris Fresh Food Doris Fresh Food is a venerable Bequia institution run by Doris Sachs who always has a welcoming smile and warm greeting for her customers. Doris has earned an outstanding reputation for her excellent selection of fresh local produce and broad range of imported specialty foods and gourmet items – shoppers are often surprised at the variety of items in stock. The store, now located on Back Street, is the perfect place to stock up on provisions, whether you are visiting on a yacht or staying in one of the island’s villas. In addition to a fine selection of olive oils, vinegars, coffee and other offerings, the shop boasts a splendid selection of top quality imported meats, frozen seafood, smoked fish and smoked fish paté, as well as a selection of imported cheeses, pasta, fresh produce and a wide range of breads and pastries including rye, poppy seed, multigrain, sesame seed and their special 8 grain bread, along with baguettes, mini baguettes, rolls, pain au chocolat, apple and raspberry turnovers, butter croissants, apple and pear tarts, pain au raisin, chocolate and apple-filled doughnuts and much more! You can even find a full range of sushi ingredients and bottled pestos, as well as a good selection of fine imported wines and spirits. You can fax or e-mail your shopping list to Doris prior to your arrival and your groceries will be delivered directly to your yacht or villa. MasterCard and Visa accepted. German spoken.

Opening Times (in season) Mon. - Sat. 8:30am-5pm; Sun. 9am-11:30am (Opening times may vary in the off- season) Tel (784) 458-3625 | Fax (784) 457-3134 | VHF 68 doris_freshfood@yahoo.com Back Street, Port Elizabeth, Bequia


It seems there’s never a shortage of fresh produce in Bequia. Much of it comes directly from the fertile farms in St. Vincent and local kitchen gardens in Bequia, so you can be sure of its freshness. All along Front Street you’ll see colourful stalls with a wide variety of farm fresh vegetables, fruit and fragrant herbs. Just past the petrol station there is a fresh produce market where you may have a “cultural experience” with the rasta brethren who also sell a good variety of the islands’ fruits and vegetables. At the adjacent fish market, fishermen blow the conch shell when the catch of the day arrives. If you have a taste for something different, just ask; Bequians love to help and chances are your taxi driver, housekeeper, bartender or neighbour knows someone who can arrange delivery of fresh fish or lobsters the next morning. With the housekeeping taken care of, it’s time to relax and enjoy more of the variety which this little town has to offer. Browsing in the boutiques you can find locally designed clothing to enhance your holiday wardrobe – swimwear, souvenir T-shirts and, at the bookstore, a fine collection of maps, Caribbean literature and scrimshaw. Souvenir shoppers will find a colourful variety of T-shirts and craft items from the roadside stalls on Front Street. Sometimes local craftspeople can be found along the waterfront selling colourful, handpainted boleys, handmade jewellery and coconut boats with colourful sails.

Locally made coconut boats hang on display under the almond trees in the harbour Photo: Wilfred Dederer

Ins & Outs Tip “Buy Bequia” is the call of the island’s many art and craft producers, and “Bequia Clean and Green” is a slogan which the Bequia Tourism Association hopes will become a motto – they encourage everyone to bring or buy their own shopping bag and say “No!” to plastic whenever possible.

Art & Craft Bequia’s got talent! This will be made clear as you walk through the harbour town of Port Elizabeth; the imaginative signage and wall paintings that adorn many of the buildings and the bright array of items for sale ‘under the almond trees’ create the first impression that this little island has a lot to offer. Indeed, whether you are a connoisseur looking to add to your collection of Caribbean fine art or folk art, or in search of unique hand-made gifts and trinkets to take home, there is plenty of choice. If you collect model boats this is certainly your island, for this is Bequia’s most famous art. A short walk north from the main ferry wharf will take you first to Mauvin’s and then the Sargeant Brothers’ model boat shops where you will find scale replicas of Bequia built schooners and sailing boats; have you considered commissioning a model of your own yacht? A little further into the Ocar neighbourhood is the Sargeants’ Maritime Museum where you can see some impressive large models, learn more about their work and hear some good island stories.

Artist Julie Savage Lea in her charming Mango Tree Cottage and Art Studio

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  91


B

& Gift Shop BEHIND THE PORTHOLE RESTAURANT PORT ELIZABETH, BEQUIA

oasisbequia@vincysurf.com

92  Art & Craft in Bequia

More boats for various budgets can be found along Front Street and under the almond trees, alongside fish and figurines carved from wood or bone and jewellery fashioned from coconut shell. You may find paintings on canvas, hats and baskets woven from palm fronds, decorative carved or painted calabashes from the boley tree and a range of pretty bamboo souvenirs. In the harbour’s shops and boutiques you may find locally made work showcased among a variety of international gifts. The Garden Boutique carries batik hand-made on St. Vincent while Island Style features large paintings, hand-painted accessories and gifts by Bequia artist Pinkie Vaughn-Richards. Mango Tree Cottage and Art Studio, on the main road behind the Gingerbread Hotel, is where you will meet Julie Savage Lea, the artist who created the delightful book Bequia Reflections – An Artist in the Caribbean. Her original works in acrylics and oils plus cards and giclée prints are for sale at the Studio as are paintings by Peter Carr, an exceptional watercolour artist who visits Bequia regularly from Australia. Peter’s work is the subject of a recent book, Bequia - A Feast of Color: Paintings 1978 to 2012. Both his and Julie’s book are available at Mango Tree and at the Bequia Bookstore. ‘All art made in SVG’ is the mandate of The Oasis Art Gallery and Gift Shop that shows a variety of work in various media. The gallery recently moved to more spacious surroundings behind The Porthole Restaurant and is curated by well-known Bequia artist L.D. Lucy whose work is featured on this year’s cover of Ins & Outs. Her wonderful paintings depicting a mystical view of island life are on display, as are the unique model boats-that-sail by Bequia seaman Kingsley ‘Prop’ King. Notable gallery artists include Peter Providence, Dinks Johnson and Nzimbu Brown. There are regular exhibitions by guest artists throughout the winter season so be sure to check with them for dates and your invitation to opening night. The Oasis is the ‘downtown outlet’ for the pottery of Mike Goddard; during winter months you can meet Mike and Maggie at their Cinnamon Garden studio. If your travels take you to Lower Bay, follow the signs to Claude Victorine’s Art Studio (by appointment - call 4583150) where she hand-paints exquisite designs onto silk that is crafted into scarves, pareos and cushion covers. Across the island at Hope Beach you may chance to see Jacob Scott, an artist who uses found material washed up onto that windy beach to make unusual baskets, hats and wall hangings. On other beaches too or on village streets you may chance upon other craftspeople at work; they love to share stories about what they are making and maybe make a sale. While here, you may also have the pleasure of meeting Silma Duncan, our resident author and published poet, who will be happy to recite you a verse or two from her most recent book of poems. We hope you enjoy your visit and when safely home have some lovely art and craft to remind you of our sea, sand and sunshine.


L.D.   Lucy

S  ilma Duncan

Lucy’s paintings, in brilliant tropical colours, capture the magic and humour of island life. Known for her intriguing ‘goddess’ paintings of mermaids and nature spirits, her portfolio includes land- and seascapes plus a bright array of flora and fauna inspired by her love of all nature. Lucy is an accomplished portrait artist whose commissions also include large wall paintings, signage and decorated furniture; she will be happy to create a unique artwork for your home. Lucy’s paintings, plus giclée prints and art cards are on display at Bequia’s Oasis Art Gallery where you may meet her with a new work-in-progress or stitching sails for the model boats built by Bequia seaman Kingsley “Prop” King.

Bequian poet, Silma Duncan has been dubbed the Poet Laureate of St. Vincent & the Grenadines. She has been recognized by St. James Palace for a poem honouring the late Princess Diana and has been written up in Caraibes Magazine and published in the London Independent. She has also been interviewed by BBC Radio in Manchester. Her poetry covers a wide range of subjects ranging from love, relationships and the treatment of women, to a tribute to the famous Black Carib leader, Joseph Chatoyer. Silma recently released her 8th book of poetry entitled, The Humpback Whale and a delightfully illustrated children’s book, A Day in the Life of a Turtle. Her books can be found in Port Elizabeth at the Bequia Bookstore, Solana’s Boutique and Island Style, or directly from Silma. With a little encouragement she will expressively recite one of her poems for the listener!

Tel (784) 497-7670

oasisbequia@vincysurf.com The Oasis Art Gallery & Gift Shop, Behind The Porthole Restaurant, Port Elizabeth, Bequia

P   eter Carr - Paintings of Bequia Watercolours and oils by Peter Carr, Australian artist, sailor, world traveller, and carpenter, who first arrived in Bequia in 1978. Inspired by the people and scenery of this tiny Caribbean island, Peter returns frequently to paint the timeless aspects and everyday life of one of his favourite places. Collectors from around the world find his vibrant Bequia pictures irresistible. View a wide selection of his original work, by appointment, at Mango Art Studio, Bequia. His new book, BEQUIA, A FEAST OF COLOR, consists of 64 pages, featuring 56 of his paintings. Historical commentary by two Bequia friends, Bob Berlinghof and Nolly Simmons, makes Peter’s book a fascinating guide throughout the island from an artist’s view.

By appointment, call (784) 455-4677

www.mango-art-studio-bequia.com | julieslea@yahoo.com

Silma can be contacted at (784) 531-8290

J ulie Savage Lea Julie, a life-long artist with a university degree in fine art, sailed into Bequia in 1978. For 38­­years she has painted local scenes, people, and flowers in watercolours and acrylics. Her work is exhibited and collected internationally. See her cards, books, prints, and originals. In 2000, Macmillan Caribbean published a book of her artwork, BEQUIA REFLECTIONS – An Artist in the Caribbean, available locally or through Julie’s website. Visit the artist in her charming studio at Mango Tree Cottage, along the main road, on the hill behind the Gingerbread Restaurant - look for the bright yellow wall.

By appointment, call (784) 455-4677

www.juliesavagelea.com | www.mango-art-studio-bequia.com julieslea@yahoo.com Mango Art Studio, Belmont, Bequia

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  93


Dining & Nightlife 94â&#x20AC;&#x192; Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


T

Bequia has no shortage of excellent restaurants

he restaurants in Bequia are charming and diverse, offering menu selections and prices to suit everyone. Wherever you choose to dine, you’ll find, in general, all of the restaurants on the island enjoy a happy, informal and relaxed atmosphere – from the small, “few frills joints”, to the larger and more sophisticated establishments. Reservations are preferred by most restaurants during the high season (December to April) and during the busy Easter Regatta period when they are usually booked solid. Equally, in the “offseason”, many restaurants are closed during the week, although some open according to bookings – so a reservation will always avoid disappointment. There is a reliable land and water taxi service on the island offering an island-wide service; after dinner, your host will be happy to call one for you. Night time entertainment, though limited, is fun and enjoyable. The music scene is a cool, eclectic mix of tastes and styles. Electric and acoustic groups provide a dazzling variety – from Calypso, String Band and Reggae, to Rock ‘n Roll, Country, Jazz and Blues. Groups and musicians perform at various venues around the island almost every week. The annual Bequia Mount Gay Music Fest, now in its 13th year, is a festival of substance with performances by top-notch musicians from around the world – it’s a must for everyone visiting SVG in late January – the 2016 festival runs from 21st to 24th January.

Photo courtesy L’Auberge des Grenadines

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines Bequia  95


L’Auberge des Grenadines

Bagatelle Restaurant

Gourmet French cuisine with a distinct Creole accent is the nucleus of this charming waterfront restaurant on Admiralty Bay. Since its opening 15 years ago, L’Auberge has firmly established itself as one of the best in the Grenadines. Owner-run by Jacques and Eileen Thevenot, a dynamic husband and wife team who have been in the restaurant business for over 25 years. The menu features an outstanding selection of imaginative dishes, with the accent on ultra-fresh fish and market-fresh ingredients. Lobster dishes are a specialty and with the only LIVE LOBSTER POOL in Bequia (in season) your meal just can’t get much fresher! Open for Lunch & Dinner.

Located right on the beach at the lovely Bequia Beach Hotel on Friendship Bay, Bagatelle offers guests a special dining experience. The open-sided dining verandah provides sweeping ocean views and the international menu makes full use of locally sourced fresh produce, with some classic Caribbean influences. International chefs with Michelin star experience and Caribbean chefs are part of the well-regarded kitchen team. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The hotel’s second restaurant, Blue Tropic opens during highseason and features a classic Italian-styled menu, blending the best of Bequia with the traditions of Italian cuisine.

Tel/Fax (784) 457-3555 | VHF 68

Tel (784) 458-1600 / (784) 458-8111

www.caribrestaurant.com | auberge@caribrestaurant.com Hamilton, overlooking Admiralty Bay, Bequia

www.bequiabeach.com | info@bequiabeach.com Bequia Beach Hotel, Friendship Bay, Bequia

Chameleon Café & Clothing Chameleon Café & Clothing is conveniently located on Front Street, near to the dinghy and ferry docks, offering a Europeanstyle café and bar alongside a quality clothing boutique. Enjoy freshly ground Italian-style coffees, refreshing smoothies, fruit juices and treats, or choose from the wide and varied menu selections–from breakfast through to evening tapas! Sit in the cool comfort of the air-conditioned café, or outside on the patio and take in the bustle of the harbour. Free and reliable 8GB WiFi available. The boutique offers quality branded clothing, perfect for a little retail therapy, specialising in summer clothing and beachwear brands such as Hurley, Reef, Seafolly and Panos Emporio.

Tel (784) 570-6521

www.chameleonbequia.com | info@chameleonbequia.com Port Elizabeth, Bequia

96  Dining & Nightlife in Bequia


Bequia chills at Jack’s Bar Don’t miss Jack’s Beach Barbecue with live entertainment on Tuesday Nights – one of the best party nights in Bequia!

Jack’s Bar Located right on splendid Princess Margaret Beach, Jack’s Bar has a unique contemporary design in a spectacular beachfront setting. The beach bar is open day and night and offers an extensive à la carte menu with Mediterranean influences. Lunch features light and tasty beachside favourites like Herb Crusted Mahi Mahi, Fresh Tuna Niçoise and Grilled Lobster (in season) while dinner offers a slightly more sophisticated menu. The popular Tuesday Night Beach Barbecue with live entertainment is great value for money and one of the best party nights in Bequia. Jack’s is the perfect place to enjoy the sunset over a few cocktails! A convenient dinghy dock makes it easy to come by water taxi or dinghy. BEQUIA CHILLS AT JACK’S BAR!

Tel (784) 458-3809 | VHF 68

www.atasteofbequia.com Princess Margaret Beach, Bequia

Open for Lunch & Dinner Daily

98  Dining Chartering & Nightlife in Bequia


Bequia meets at Papa’s Bar

Papa’s Bar & Bistro Papa’s Bar & Bistro has a wonderful ‘home-away-from-home’ ambiance. The spacious and comfortable lounge is tastefully decorated with beautiful furnishings and art, while the al fresco dining terrace enjoys exquisite views over the harbour. Papa’s is the perfect spot to sip on a tropical cocktail and enjoy the sunset over the bay. The menu offers an eclectic mix, from light snacks to fantastic sushi plates (on request) and don’t miss Mama’s Italian Night on Wednesdays! Papa’s Bar is “the place” to meet during your stay in Bequia. Enjoy free Wi-Fi and watch your favourite sports events on the big screen TVs. BEQUIA MEETS AT PAPA’S BAR!

Tel (784) 457-3443 | VHF 68 www.atasteofbequia.com Port Elizabeth, Bequia

Open for Lunch & Dinner Daily

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  99


La Plage

Keegan’s Beachside

French cuisine with a Caribbean twist is the essence of this rustic beachside restaurant/bar in Lower Bay. During the day, enjoy a leisurely al fresco lunch on the outside deck, just a few steps from the water’s edge. In the evening, it’s the perfect spot to take in the sunset and then linger for dinner in a very pleasant, laissez-faire atmosphere where the staff are friendly, the food is consistently good and the view of the sparkling ocean is unbeatable. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Free Wi-Fi available.

A colourful, beachside setting, friendly service and tasty home-style cooking sets the scene for this casual, laid-back beach bar and restaurant beside the golden sands of Lower Bay beach. Soak up the sea, sand, sun and rum punch, and tuck into generous servings of their mouthwatering burgers, fresh-off-the-boat fish and a selection of delicious local favourites. Their hearty All Day Breakfast menu draws a crowd, as does their popular Saturday night BBQ Mingle which usually features a movie on their big outdoor screen right by the beach. Stunning sunsets and evenings under the stars make Keegan’s somewhere you will want to dine more than once!

Tel (784) 458-3530 or (784) 530-4959 | VHF 68 Tel (784) 458-3361 | VHF 68 Lower Bay, Bequia

www.keegansbequia.org keegansbequia@yahoo.com Lower Bay, Bequia

De Reef Beach Bar & Restaurant

Dawn’s Café

Located on beautiful Lower Bay beach where there is some of the best swimming and snorkeling to be found on the island. De Reef is a casual beach bar and restaurant, popular with visitors and locals for their reasonable prices and tasty creole menu. Favourites include callaloo soup, lobster salad (in season), chicken and seafood dishes and a variety of sandwiches. Their warm Conch Souse is considered by many to be the best on the island! Open daily for lunch and in the evenings, threecourse dinners by reservation. Live entertainment most Sunday afternoons in the high season.

Tucked deep in the popular village of Lower Bay, Dawn's enchanting and intimate new café and bar brings with it her longstanding tradition of delicious local cuisine with a light and personal touch. Selections of fresh seafood include snapper, conch and lobster (in season), all served up with lots of local flavour and Dawn’s endearing smile, in a decidedly tropical atmosphere. Already popular with those who have loved Dawn's cooking for years, her new location is destined to be one of the "must go" spots in Bequia! Open daily from 8am for Breakfast and Lunch. Dinner reservations recommended.

Tel (784) 458-3958 | VHF 68

Tel (784) 492-6508

Lower Bay Beach, Bequia

Lower Bay, Bequia

100  Dining & Nightlife in Bequia


Sugar Reef Café Guests say: “Perfect place for a romantic dinner.” … “Every aspect of interior design to complement the natural beauty of the exterior is quite stunning.” … “The callaloo lasagna with coconut béchamel was superbly light and uniquely Caribbean.” … “Lobster roti, simply the best.” … “The passion fruit mousse was a triumph of flavour!” ... “The service is fantastic, with knowledgeable and attentive staff.” ... “This certainly is the right spot for a foodie!” Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Tel (784) 458-3400

www.sugarreefbequia.com info@sugarreefbequia.com Crescent Beach, Bequia

 Firefly Plantation Restaurant The Chefs at Firefly create tasty, simple modern Caribbean dishes using home grown and locally sourced ingredients. Firefly’s restaurant offers a relaxed open-air setting with magnificent views of the plantation and sea beyond. The service is welcoming, friendly and attentive and the prices reasonable. Excellent cocktails and wine list. Open for breakfast (which is highly recommended!), lunch, dinner, cocktails and drinks. A short taxi ride from the town, one mile from the main dock, set in the quiet peaceful location of Spring Valley. Reservations suggested.

Tel (784) 458-3414 | Mobile (784) 430-6813 www.fireflybequia.com | info@fireflybequia.com Spring, Bequia

Frangipani Restaurant

Gingerbread Restaurant

Located directly on the waterfront of beautiful Admiralty Bay, the open-air dining room at Frangipani specializes in fresh seafood and gourmet West Indian cuisine. Their à la carte menu is supplemented with daily specials and fine imported wines are available. Every Thursday night the feature attraction is Frangi’s famous barbecue and buffet with steel band and “jump-up”. Breakfast is served from 7.30am-10am; lunch from 10am-5pm; and dinner from 7pm-10pm. Entrées from EC$55-$85; Barbecue Buffet - EC$97.

With an unrivaled location overlooking beautiful Admiralty Bay, the Gingerbread restaurant offers elegant dining in a warm tropical ambience. Charming gingerbread fretwork, interesting artwork and unique architecture provide the ideal setting for breakfast, lunch and dinner! Featuring gourmet West Indian cuisine with international influences including fresh seafood, imported steak and the house specialty – Indian and Thai curries! An extensive selection of fine imported wines is also available, including their “wine of the month” tasting. Their friendly staff always offer a warm Bequia welcome. Reservations are recommended.

Tel (784) 458-3255 | Fax (784) 458-3824 www.frangipanibequia.com Belmont, Bequia

Tel (784) 458-3800 | Fax (784) 458-3907 www.gingerbreadhotel.com gm@gingerbreadhotel.com Belmont, Bequia

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  101


Where to Stay

102â&#x20AC;&#x192; Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


A

full range of accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets is available in Bequia, and though there are no

large hotel chains to be found, visitors will find a very wide range of suitable accommodations from which to choose. A number of small family-run guest houses and self-catering apartments, family-friendly boutique hotels and a wonderful selection of private villas are scattered all over the island, many of them enjoying stunning views of the coastline from their hillside locations. Almost all of the hotels and apartments are situated along the waterfront in Admiralty Bay, Lower Bay, Friendship Bay, Spring and Industry. The busiest times of year are the Christmas to New Year period, and over Easter, when it’s regatta time in Bequia! The “off-season” runs from May to October; this is when the island is quieter and very often summer specials and discounted rates are offered by many of the establishments, so be sure to ask at the time of booking.

Having undergone a major refurbishment in 2015, the ‘new’ Bequia Plantation Hotel is a lovely addition to the island’s accommodation offering Photo: Wilfred Dederer

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines Bequia  103


Bequia Beach Hotel

The Estate Villa -Bequia Beach Hotel

Bequia Beach Hotel is a new 4-star resort on pristine Friendship Bay beach. Enjoy an oceanview massage at their lovely beachfront Spa, cocktails at the beach bar, or sip a fresh fruit colada as you soak in the luxury of their sumptuous beach front suites. All accommodation is luxuriously furnished, featuring air conditioning and private terrace. Also on the premises is Bagatelle, one of Bequia’s finest restaurants, offering an international menu with classic Caribbean influences. There is a modern leisure centre with meeting facilities. At Bequia Beach Hotel you will experience the true Caribbean!

The exquisite Estate Villa at Bequia Beach Hotel is the perfect choice for guests looking for all the benefits of a private, luxury sanctuary, with personal service, and all the amenities of a hotel! Suitable for couples, families, or groups of friends, the contemporary, colonialstyled villa is ideally located just paces away from Friendship Beach with spectacular ocean views across to Mustique and the small offshore islands. Featuring two twin and two master bedrooms all with en-suite bathrooms, a grand reception room which opens onto a wrap-around verandah, and private pool and sun terrace just below. A dedicated Estate Villa manager is on hand, and a private chef can be arranged on request.

Tel (784) 458-1600 | Fax (784) 458-1700 www.bequiabeach.com info@bequiabeach.com Friendship Bay, Bequia

Tel (784) 458-1600 | Fax (784) 458-1700

www.bequiabeach.com | info@bequiabeach.com Friendship Bay, Bequia

De Reef Apartments

Keegan’s Beachside

Six spacious, self-catering one and two-bedroom apartments nestled in the quaint and friendly community of Lower Bay, just a short 1 minute walk to one of Bequia’s best beaches with excellent snorkeling. Air-conditioned bedrooms, ceiling fans, cable TV, free Wi-Fi and fully equipped kitchens. De Reef Beach Bar & Restaurant is located just next door and serves tasty local dishes at very reasonable prices.

Since 1978 this family owned and operated establishment has been well known for its warm hospitality, tasty home cooked meals and some of the best value in the Caribbean. Comfortable beachside hotel rooms or apartments, all with A/C & cable TV, just steps from beautiful Lower Bay beach. Enjoy a swim before a leisurely breakfast on the terrace overlooking the beach, lapped by the turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea.

Tel (784) 458-3412 or (784) 458-3484 Cell (784) 494-3688 Fax (784) 457-3103

Tel (784) 458-3530 or 530-4959

dereef@vincysurf.com Lower Bay, Bequia

www.keegansbequia.org keegansbequia@yahoo.com Lower Bay, Bequia

104  Where Chartering to Stay in Bequia


Firefly Plantation Hotel

Sugar Reef Bequia

A delightful Caribbean Boutique hotel, set within a lush 250 year old plantation with beautifully appointed luxurious guest rooms, all with spectacular views and private balconies, A/C, Wi-Fi, sumptuous bathrooms, indoor/outdoor double showers, quality linens and thoughtful amenities. The separate two-bedroom Plantation Cottage is ideal for families. The sparkling swimming pool, hammocks slung between coconut trees and shady gazebos invite you to while away the day while sipping on one of Firefly’s famous cocktails. The restaurant serves great local food and the staff here are friendly and attentive. One mile from the main dock, set in the quiet peaceful location of Spring Valley.

Guests talk about: “The elegance of the place and the smiles of the people that work there; the incredible food of the restaurant and everyday breakfast.”…”One of the best places I have ever been in my life.” … “There are simply no words to describe the beauty of French House. Took our breath away!” … “Besides the view and the setting, the staff are their biggest asset.” … “We felt more like friends or family staying here than just another guest.” … “This place is a must-go.”

Tel (784) 458-3414 | Mobile (784) 430-6813

www.sugarreefbequia.com info@sugarreefbequia.com Crescent Beach, Bequia

www.fireflybequia.com | info@fireflybequia.com Spring, Bequia

Tel (784) 458-3400

The Frangipani Hotel

Gingerbread Hotel

Restored as an inn some four decades ago, the Frangipani has been a family home for over 100 years. With spectacular views of Admiralty Bay, the inn offers elegant garden units with individual balconies overlooking the yachts in the bay and old-style rooms within the original family home. Ask about their Frangi Special – stay 6 nights and the 7th night is FREE. They have an established reputation for fine food and a good range of imported wines. Live music on Thursdays, with their special barbeque buffet and steel band “jump-up”.

Want to be independent but still feel part of Bequia life? Gingerbread Hotel, with its superb location right on Admiralty Bay, is the perfect choice. The spacious, elegant suites open onto individual shaded verandahs with comfortable armchairs so that you can relax and savour the ever-changing scene on the waterfront. Restaurants of many types are within a minute’s walk, or you may surprise yourself and rustle up something in your own well-equipped kitchen. Choose to shop, bar-hop, scuba dive, snorkel, sail, or simply mingle at the bayside café – it’s all so easy, when you are based at Gingerbread.

Tel (784) 458-3255 | Fax (784) 458-3824

Tel (784) 458-3800

www.frangipanibequia.com reservations@frangipanibequia.com Belmont, Bequia

www.gingerbreadhotel.com ginger@vincysurf.com Belmont, Bequia

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  105


Villa Life


E

njoying a vacation in a villa on Bequia, or anywhere in the Grenadines for that matter, be it as an owner or a visiting

guest, can definitely be considered one of lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finer luxuries. In keeping with its capacity for providing a surprisingly wide spectrum of scenic beauty within a relatively small area, Bequia can also offer a variety of exquisite villas that are sure to accommodate even the most demanding of requirements and tastes. Whether it be beachfront or wooded hillside garden, classical or whimsical, sprawling or small and intimate, there is something here to please everyone â&#x20AC;&#x201C; couples, families, groups of friends, honeymooners or wedding parties. Villa life in Bequia offers the relaxed privacy of a home where residents have the liberty to do what they want when they want, without any need to consider the sensibilities of strangers around them, and yet still be able to enjoy the benefit of dedicated housekeeping staff, whose aim is to make sure their guests relax and enjoy themselves. It is this freedom to get away from it all and completely unwind in your own space that makes villa life in Bequia so alluring, coupled of course with the aesthetic appeal of having the opportunity to live, for a while, here in Bequia in

Many of the private villas on Bequia enjoy marvelous, uninterrupted views over spectacular land and seascapes

a truly beautiful home.

Photo: Wilfred Dederer Courtesy Tranquility Villa, Moonhole, Bequia - www.sweetbequiahomes.com

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadinesâ&#x20AC;&#x192; 107


Sweet Bequia Homes

The Nest & Treetop

Offering romantic tropical hideaways - for everyone and every budget - tranquil seclusion and a brief stroll to a white sandy beach. Tranquility and Burke House offer total privacy and have spectacular views of the Grenadines Islands from every room. Tranquility Villa, the gem of Moonhole peninsula, is the subject of the photo on the preceding spread, and “a favourite tropical home” of Coastal Living magazine. Plumrose is a cozy two bedroom cottage, set in a beautiful garden in the coastal area of Ocar on the outskirts of Port Elizabeth - pick your mangoes for breakfast!

Cool, spacious and very comfortable, The Nest and Treetop are two charming, fully furnished, one-bedroom apartments set on a hillside and surrounded by shady trees. Each apartment has its own deep wrap-around verandah which provides a great outdoor living space with superb views of the harbour and Admiralty Bay. Both apartments have Cable TV and Wifi, fully equipped kitchens with greenheart countertops, stove, fridge, microwave and toaster oven. A queen-sized futon couch in the living room provides extra sleeping space, if required. Easy walk to Port Elizabeth, restaurants, Princess Margaret and Lower Bay beaches.

Tel USA: (276) 415-2753 | Bequia: (784) 530-4363 www.sweetbequiahomes.com info@sweetbequiahomes.com Moonhole, Bequia

Contact Elen (784) 458-3667 treehouse@vincysurf.com Belmont, Bequia

Lime House Villas

Ocean Breeze House

Charming 2-bedroom/2-bathroom cottage and one-bedroom studio in a wonderful hilltop location overlooking the Atlantic Ocean where you can watch the sunrise every morning and the moonrise in the evening. Surrounded by beautiful tropical gardens with a large pool, sun terrace and BBQ where guests can soak up the warm sun by day and enjoy a moonlight BBQ in the evening. Telephone, cable TV, Internet and maid service included. This is a truly wonderful, cool and comfortable location for those seeking beauty, peace and quiet relaxation. Spring, Industry and Park beaches are close by, along the coastal walkway.

You’ll be swept away by the beauty of this spacious, secluded, hillside villa – dramatic views, cool breezes, lush tropical gardens, large salt-water pool and sun terrace with mini bar and BBQ. There is a wide, covered terrace for outdoor dining and steps from the house lead to a relaxing Jacuzzi overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Can be rented as a 2 or 3 bedroom villa. Regular maid service, cable TV and high speed Internet included.

Tel (784) 457-3092

Tel/Fax (784) 457-3092

www.bequiavillas.net | limehouse@bequiavilla.com Spring, Bequia

108  Villa Life in Bequia

www.bequiaholiday.com | limehouse@bequiavilla.com Spring, Bequia


Dragonfly Villa

Cassava House

Sleeping six people comfortably, Dragonfly is a 4 minute walk down to the sands of Lower Bay. The stone terrace stretching the full length of the house has a mesmerising panoramic view of the ocean, perfect for relaxing by day or chilling at dusk with a cocktail as the sun sets over the horizon. Two double/twin rooms lead onto the terrace, and a large bedroom below with a super-king four-poster, each with ensuite bathroom, AC & fans. With WiFi & cable TV, it sleeps 2 or up to 6 guests.

With stunning views over the Caribbean, Cassava House is set less than two hundred paces up from Lower Bay, one of the Grenadine’s finest swimming beaches. The living room opens onto a covered coral stone terrace, the perfect place to watch the sun set. A carved archway leads into the dining room. Beyond a seating area is the master bedroom with private terrace. Two double/twin rooms lead onto terraces with sea views. 4,837sq.ft, with its own chef, it sleeps 2 or up to 6 guests.

Tel UK: 00 44 7836 256750 | SVG: (784) 527-9188

Tel UK: 00 44 7836 256750 Tel SVG: (784) 527-9188

www.dragonflyvilla.co.uk contactus@cassava-house.com Lower Bay, Bequia

www.cassava-house.com contactus@cassava-house.com Lower Bay, Bequia

Ravenala House

Tropical Hideaway

A stunningly beautiful and private location with panoramic views to both St. Vincent and Admiralty Bay, Ravenala is surrounded by lush forest gardens, has 3 double bedrooms, 2 being in the main house, plus a separate cottage bedroom, all with A/C and screening. A large shady verandah and outdoor dining area leads directly to the curved infinity pool and coral deck overlooking the ocean, a truly wonderful space to unwind. Amenities include complimentary cell phone, Internet, Cable TV, Maid and Concierge service, Barbecue and car rental. The beach and restaurants in Lower Bay are just a short walk away.

Specializing in couples and small groups from 2 - 12 guests this award winning ‘Boutique Style’ property offers luxurious and very private accommodation (from US$100 pp/pn). Set in a stunning hillside position with a heated infinity pool rated as one of the top 10 pools in the Caribbean, the beautiful evening sunsets and spectacular panoramic ocean views will literally take your breath away. With over 200 5-star reviews, discover why many say these are the finest views on Bequia, from the finest accommodation on Bequia and visit their comprehensive website for the latest offers.

Tel (784) 570-1946 or (784) 531-4142

Tel (784) 458-3676 | Cell (784) 532-1690

www.ravenala-bequia.com enquiries@ravenalabequia.com Lower Bay, Bequia

www.tropicalhideawaybequia.com info@tropicalhideawaybequia.com Bequia Estate, Bequia

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  109


Look Yonder Cottages Two brand new, self-contained cottages with ocean views and a wonderful breeze. Located on the peaceful east coast of Bequia, between Spring Bay and Crescent Beach. Each cottage has two bedrooms with ensuite, indoor and outdoor living space, kitchen, A/C, cable TV, Wi-Fi, and a shared pool with BBQ, sundeck and gazebo. Breathtaking views all around. Quiet, safe and comfortable with everything you need for an unforgettable stay on Bequia. Both available for long or short term rentals.

Tel (784) 457-3362/528-9855/532-4353 www.lookyonderbequia.com info@lookyonderbequia.com Crown Point, Bequia

Grenadine Island Villas

Beach retreats, classic villas and distinctive houses. Based in the islands, this friendly team offers a full service to help you find and enjoy your perfect island hideaway. With a comprehensive online guide and swift, responsive service you can relax and fully enjoy your Grenadines villa experience.  Benefit from helpful services such as provisioning, welcome meals and 24hr. onisland assistance. Contact Grenadine Island Villas for detailed information on island developments, investment opportunities and land & villa purchase. Visit their Waterfront offices on Bequia to arrange guided property viewings.

Ginger Lily Villa Stunning Caribbean villa on 50,000 sq. ft. of private estate that features 5 bedroom suites, a Polaris ATV vehicle, state-of-the-art meeting room, dining gazebo, walk in showers, two swimming pools and close to a safe calm bay, ideal for swimming. The ridgetop location offers fabulous, panoramic views across to the deserted island of Isle a Quatre and the ocean beyond. Privacy is guaranteed in this delightful 21st century style villa. The exterior is modeled upon an Indonesian style, whilst the interiors are clean, cool, crisp and light. Far away from the bustle of the bay yet just a short stroll or taxi away from the bars, restaurants and dive shops.

Tel (784) 457-3739/3888

info@bluelagoonsvg.com Ginger Lily Villa, Baie De Sucre, Bequia

Bob’s Place A classic Caribbean hideaway just a moment’s stroll from Lower Bay beach and easy access to a range of bars and restaurants. This wonderful cottage has the lovely charm of a traditional Caribbean beach house, with a large, comfortable wooden deck area on both the lower and upper levels of the house. There are three double bedrooms – one large master bedroom with ensuite bathroom, opening onto the spacious deck on the upper loft level, and two bedrooms on the main level which share a bathroom. There is a well-equipped kitchen and a spacious dining area on the covered verandah.

Tel (784) 457-3739 or (784) 529-8046

www.grenadinevillas.com enquiries@thegrenadinescollection.com Bequia Waterfront, Frangipani Gardens

110  Villa Life in Bequia

Contact Philip Christie - christiex5@hotmail.com Lower Bay, Bequia


Bequia Plantation Hotel

Plantation Hotel Beach

Sister hotel to the lovely Blue Lagoon Hotel and Marina in St. Vincent, the Bequia Plantation Hotel, which recently changed ownership, is going through a major renovation that will be completed early in 2016. Perfectly located on the south shore of Admiralty Bay, the property enjoys stunning, panoramic ocean views and will feature beautifully appointed ocean view rooms, a fine dining restaurant, pizzeria, a beach bar and club lounge. Just a short walk from the picturesque harbour town of Port Elizabeth, with its waterside bars and restaurants. A brief stroll along the scenic Princess Point trail will take you to splendid Princess Margaret Beach.

For bookings and more information contact Blue Lagoon Hotel and Marina

Tel (784) 458-4308 Princess Point Trail

info@bluelagoonsvg.com Admiralty Bay, Bequia

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadinesâ&#x20AC;&#x192; 111


Mustique 112â&#x20AC;&#x192; Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


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s part of St. Vincent and the Grenadines, the 1,400-acre island of Mustique shares the early history common to all of the islands.

When European planters arrived in the 1740s they

discovered they could easily and successfully produce sugar. During the 1700s, Mustique was heavily defended against the possibility of French invaders and the remains of three forts can still be seen. The sugar-based economy of the Grenadines prospered until sugar beet usurped West Indian cane as the major source of sugar. Mustique’s sugar plantations were soon abandoned and eventually became overgrown with the encroaching jungle leaving only the sugar mill at Endeavour and its cotton house. The island was eventually purchased in 1958 by Lord Glenconner (the Honourable Colin Tennant) under whose guidance the island began to flourish again. Mustique remained relatively quiet although its reputation as an idyllic getaway was growing. In 1960, HRH The Princess Margaret accepted a 10-acre plot of land as a wedding gift from Colin Tennant and a new era began. The Mustique Company was formed in 1968 and the airport opened the following year. It was around this time that the first new villas (mainly designed by Oliver Messel and Arne Hasselqvist) were built and the Cotton House opened as an inn. Improvements continued, including new roads, reliable electricity and communications, a desalination plant, a medical clinic and air transport services. An educational trust provides local children with schooling and a medical trust provides all islanders with medical insurance. The Mustique Company acts as custodian for the entire island and its mandate is to protect the The Beach Café situated on Endeavour Bay is a relaxed restaurant and beach bar where guests can enjoy the island’s finest rum punches and cocktails, the perfect sunset accompaniment. Photo courtesy The Cotton House

environment and retain the privacy and tranquillity that has made Mustique the ideal, peaceful and secure Caribbean hideaway.

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  113


Mustique is such a peaceful island you may find yourself totally alone on its white sand beaches; even renowned spots such as lovely Macaroni Beach remain tranquil and uncrowded. Apart from a large plain in the north, the island is essentially composed of seven valleys, each with a white sand beach and wooded hills that rise to a height of 495 feet. The only anchorage in Mustique is Britannia Bay, which is also where the public jetty and wharf are located. There is a Mooring Fee of EC$200 (US$75) for up to three nights. Mustique is a port of entry to St. Vincent and the Grenadines and Customs and Immigration are located at the airport. Mustique Moorings (call VHF 16/68) control the 28 moorings. Vessels carrying more than 25 people are prohibited. Rental jeeps, ‘mules’ (heavy-duty golf carts), motorbikes and mountain bikes are available from Mustique Mechanical Services. There are a few taxis available in Lovell Village and at the airport. Nature walking and equestrian trails are in abundance and a great way to experience the island at your leisure. The Equestrian Centre has horses to suit every riding level and offers treks up into the hills, or rides through the surf on a white sand beach. There is a clinic across from the airport with an on-call doctor available (Tel: 488-8353). With a harbour front focal point, Lovell Village is the commercial heart of the island. Fresh fruit and vegetables can be purchased from Stanley Junior’s stall on the waterfront and groceries can be bought at Corea’s Food Store and the Mustique General Store. The famous Basil’s Bar & Restaurant is just across the road. Now in its 21st year, the annual Mustique Blues Festival is held every year in late January/early February at Basil’s.

The only hotels on the island are the exquisite Cotton House & Spa, and Firefly, a small, exclusive, privately-owned boutique hotel with just six intimate fantasy rooms. The Firefly bar is a wonderful spot to enjoy their famous cocktails while taking in the sunset!

Beaches & Anchorages

Britannia Bay – Although rather choppy, Britannia Bay is the only suitable anchorage in Mustique. The water is sparkling clear and is wonderful for snorkeling and swimming. Take care entering by boat as the Montezuma Shoal (just west of the bay) is quite hazardous. There is a red and black beacon on the reef, stay at least quarter of a mile away. Lagoon Bay – If you follow the southward road out of the village and then the shoreline path, you will happen upon this delightful beach with perfect swimming conditions. Gelliceaux Bay – This is one of the ten marine conservation areas in St. Vincent & the Grenadines. These areas are important marine habitats set aside for special management. The snorkeling here is sublime. Macaroni Bay – One of the most spectacular beaches on the island which also makes it one of the most popular. There is a covered picnic area here and the swimming is delightful. L’Ansecoy Bay – This wide beach is located at the north end of the island. Offshore lies the jutting hulk of the French liner, Antilles, which went aground in 1971. Endeavour Bay – Ideal conditions for picnicking, swimming, paddle boarding and snorkeling.

An Exclusive Private Island Retreat

The Cotton House +1 784 456 4777 cottonhouse.net

114  Mustique Chartering

The Villa Collection +1 784 488 8300 mustique-island.com


The Cotton House Set in thirteen acres of tropical gardens the colonial style Cotton House & Spa is the oldest building on the renowned island of Mustique. It offers a range of villa style accommodation with seventeen luxurious rooms and suites; from the two bedroom private residence to smaller garden cottages with plunge pools and private terraces. The hotel’s Veranda Restaurant and Beach Café & Bar offer a choice of barefoot barbeques, beach picnics and formal à la carte dining, whilst extensive watersports and island activities, and a nurturing ila-spa, will ensure a memorable stay on this tropical private island retreat.

Tel (784) 456-4777 | Fax (784) 456-5887 www.cottonhouse.net reservations@cottonhouse.net

Basil’s Shops in Mustique

Wind & Sea Established in 1984 and located in the heart of Clifton Harbour at Bougainvilla Hotel in Union Island, Wind & Sea offers day charters sailing throughout St. Vincent and the Grenadine islands. Guests can be collected from anywhere in SVG and taken to their choice of islands while being served drinks by the excellent staff onboard. Lunch may be a buffet on board, or on shore at one of the islands. They are also port agents for several cruise ships in the Grenadines. Bougainvilla is a wonderful facility for yachtsmen, dock, water, ice and restaurant “L’Aquarium” serving fresh seafood everyday. Free Wi-Fi service.

Tel (784) 458-8344/8678 | Cell (784) 493-3128 www.grenadines-windandsea.com / www.grenadines-bougainvilla.com windandsea@vincysurf.com

Basil’s Bar & Restaurant

Basil’s Boutique: Has clothing from beachwear and T-Shirts, to elegant island evening wear. Sunglasses, jewellery and postcards. Basil’s Great General Store: There is nothing general about Basil’s Great General Store. Bountifully stocked with fine French wines, cheese from Europe, gourmet jams and sauces, imported cigars and an unusual collection of books. Fine foods in Paradise. Across Forever: Featuring antiques from Bali and India, Across Forever also has a magnificent collection of furniture from Asia and beyond, contemporary pieces, home furnishings, fabulous lighting accessories and more. Shipping is easily and efficiently arranged.

Established since 1976, Basil’s Bar was named one of the World’s Ten Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek, and it still lives up to that reputation. Recently renovated, the new face of Basil’s Bar now offers lots more: fresh seafood, lobster in season, steaks and the best beef burger in the Caribbean! Now equipped with Wi-Fi, you can enjoy sunset cocktails and catch up on the web. Breakfast service begins at 8am. Lunch 11am-6pm and Dinner 7:30pm until late. Visit Basil’s for cocktails anytime, and be sure to attend the famous Wednesday Night Jump-Up and BBQ. Basil’s is also home of the only Blues Festival in the Caribbean, the 2016 Mustique Blues Festival will run from 20th Jan to 3rd Feb.

Tel (784) 488-8407 | VHF 68

Tel (784) 488-8350 | VHF 68

www.basilsbar.com basils@vincysurf.com

www.basilsbar.com basils@vincysurf.com

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  115


Canouan 116â&#x20AC;&#x192; Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


C

Canouan Resort

anouan, located in the heart of the Southern Grenadines, is poised to become one of the most sought after vacation destinations in the Caribbean. Ever since some 800 acres of rolling hills and secluded beaches on the northern side of the island were sold to an Italian consortium (Canouan Resorts Development Ltd.) in the mid-1990s, this beautiful island has gone from strength to strength. Canouanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new $200 million, 26 suite, 6 villa hotel and 27 residences, which opened for the first time on December 15, 2015, as a sneak preview for past guests, will unequivocally set a new benchmark for luxury hotels in the region. Indeed, with its spectacular golf course, luxurious spa and residences, a marina due to be completed in 20162017, an airport with a 5,900 ft. runway, two private jets and shared jet service from Barbados, Canouan aspires to become one of the most exclusive resort islands in the world. With an impressive staff of 175, the new hotel will start the 2016 season operating under the interim brand of Canouan Resort, prior to the official grand opening, scheduled for April 2016, when the identity of the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s management company will be announced. The west coast of Canouan, which is blessed with several beautiful stretches of beach, is home to a number of charming places to stay. The Tamarind Beach Hotel, which has two restaurants and an outstanding Italian deli, is particularly popular; while there are also several comfortable apartments and guest-houses offering rental accommodation in the village. The Mangrove Beach Bar is a good location to just hang out or eat some tasty local fare. Several shops stock a good selection of general supplies and the small market next to the ferry dock sells freshly caught fish and fruit and vegetables shipped in daily from St. Vincent.

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines Canouanâ&#x20AC;&#x192; 117


Useful Information

Buon Appetito

Gastronomic Delicatessen Shop and Take Away

Angelo Gulotta has created a beautiful Italian delicatessen near to the main jetty in Canouan at the Tamarind Beach Hotel and Yacht Club. A full selection of regional cold cuts and cheeses from all over Italy are professionally served along with luxuries like caviar, paté de fois gras, bottarga etc. The hot counter serves the best traditional Italian pastas, meat and fish with rice, vegetables and salads for lunch or dinner. They have an amazing selection of Italian wines, prosecco and French champagnes. De Cecco and Barilla pastas, pasta sauces, salad dressings, exquisite olive oils, balsamic vinegars, sundried tomatoes, kalamata olives, roasted peppers, artichoke hearts, honey and jams, Italian cookies, bread sticks and pies - the best food & drink of Italy in the heart of the Grenadines.

Tel (784) 532-8044

Tamarind Beach Hotel & Yacht Club

Tamarind Beach Hotel & Yacht Club This beautiful and lively beachfront oasis has 40 seaside hideaways on a long white sand beach. The “Palapa Restaurant” offers high quality Italian and West Indian cuisine and visit the “Pirate’s Cove” for light fare, live music and dancing. Buon Appetito Gastronomic Delicatessen Shop and Take Away. Beach bar, water sports, boat trips and massage facilities. On site PADI dive facilities. Day rooms and Wi-Fi available - c heck with front office.

Tel (784) 458-8044 | Fax (784) 458-8851 www.tamarindbeachhotel.com info@tamarind.us

118  Canouan Chartering

Flights: The Canouan Jetport is serviced by LIAT, SVG Air, Mustique Airways, Grenadine Air Alliance and Canouan Aviation. There are scheduled flights from Barbados, St. Lucia and Grenada on LIAT, Mustique Airways and SVG Air. Land Taxis: Donna Laidlow (784) 529-6820. Canouan Handling Service and Jus Once Taxi, Tel: (784) 482-0674 or after hours (784) 458-8601. They offer an on-land taxi service, cell phone cards, take bookings and provide flight tickets for SVG Air. Shopping and Services: Groceries can be purchased from: Buon Appetito Gastronomic Delicatessen Shop and Take Away located at the Tamarind Beach Hotel and Yacht Club. For orders Tel: (784) 532-8044. Canouan Foods Ltd. - Tel: (784) 482-0679 / 593-3364 or Email: canouanfoods@gmail.com. See opposite page. Rebecca’s Place - Tel: (784) 458-8024 or Email: mistert1930@cwblackberry.net Private Jet Ground Handlers: SVG Air, Tel: (784) 458-8329. www.svgair.com; Canouan Aviation Services, Tel: (784) 482-0095 or Mobile Tel: (784) 494-2070. www.canouanaviation.com Customs and Immigration: Located at the airport. Banking: Bank of St. Vincent & The Grenadines, Tel: (784) 4524174. They are open 8am to 2pm Mon. - Wed. & Fri., and 8am to 5pm on Thurs. Telephones & Internet: Wi-Fi is available at Flow, Adonal Foyle’s Bar, Canouan Resort and Tamarind Beach Hotel. Cell phone supplies are available from Flow. Medical Facilities: The Canouan Health Centre, with a full time doctor and nursing staff, is located in Retreat Village. They are open Mon. - Fri. 9am to 5pm and on weekends for emergencies only - Tel: (784) 458-8305. Diving: Canouan Dive Centre is located at The Tamarind Beach Hotel and Yacht Club. Spas/Salons: Tamarind Beach Hotel Spa offers a wonderful selection of therapeutic massages, body scrubs, body wraps, waxing, manicures, pedicures and facials. Tel: (784) 458-8044. Yacht Services & Supplies: Marcus (better known as ‘Iceman’) provides ice, gas, moorings, water, transport to shore and will also try to assist in other ways. Call VHF 16 or telephone his home (784) 458-8375 or mobile (784) 492-3230. Garbage: There is a collection system on Canouan on Tuesdays and Fridays so you may leave your garbage in the bins provided.

Beaches & Anchorages

Charlestown Bay (also known as Grand Bay) is the main anchorage and location of the village. Enter between the red and green markers. Marcus (Iceman) offers moorings for rent (contact him on VHF 16 or through Tamarind Beach Hotel or see his numbers above). There is a ferry dock in the bay and a dinghy dock off the Tamarind Beach Hotel. Rameau Bay, just north of Charlestown, is a gorgeous, quiet anchorage but may require two anchors – good snorkeling around the rocks. Further north is Corbay, the most sheltered anchorage and a great location for snorkeling or diving. There is a glorious beach at Mahaut Bay in the north, and Friendship Bay in the south also offers good snorkeling.


Jim Hill Apartments

Mangrove

An All Inclusve Package Two, 2-bedroom, self contained, airconditioned apartments, fully furnished with wonderful views of the southern Grenadines in a cool hillside location are available for short term vacation rentals. Contact Albert Ollivierre (President of the Canouan Island Council), for all inclusive packages available. Packages can include breakfast prepared at the apartments, groceries delivered, lunch and dinner at the Mangrove Beach Bar and Restaurant and boat trips to the Grenadines in “Gotta Go” twin engine luxury power boat and airport transfers. 5 mins walk from shops, the beaches and Mangrove Beach Bar. (washer/dryer, T.V., Internet Access) A wonderful vacation in paradise!

Specializing in Conch, Canouan Grouper, Snapper, Lobster (in season) & Great Burgers! This friendly beach bar and restaurant is a popular and relaxed meeting spot for visitors and residents in Canouan. The cook serves tasty local dishes using a wide selection of fresh Caribbean vegetables, fresh fish and good quality imported meats. Their burgers are delicious! Happy Hour Saturdays 6-7pm. Lunch and dinner daily. The Mangrove provides beach chairs and tables and the swimming is lovely.

Tel (784) 482-0679

Tel (784) 482-0761

canouanfoodsltd@gmail.com | Retreat Village, Canouan

Retreat Village, Canouan

Gotta-go 4 Hour Excursions in the Southern Grenadines Experienced seaman of 30 years, Albert Ollivierre, offers trips to the Tobago Cays, Mayreau, Palm Island and PSV in his comfortable power boat, Gotta-Go. Stylish beach BBQ’s are his speciality. Two 250 Yamaha engines provide a smooth, fast ride. This beautiful boat is also convenient for transfers to other islands. Maximum passengers: 15 people

Tel (784) 482-0679 or (784) 593-3364

canouanfoodsltd@gmail.com

Quality, service and everything you love to eat...

Canouan Foods

Why shop anywhere else?

WE DELIVER! VER! EEmail your orders to: canouanfoodsltd@gmail.com Open Mon-Sat 8am-8pm; Sun 8am-12pm Telephone: 784 482-0679

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  119


Mayreau Jamesby

Petit Bateau

Petit Rameau Baradal

Petit Tabac

Tobago Cays Marine Park 120â&#x20AC;&#x192; Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


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he Tobago Cays Marine Park was established to protect this precious ecosystem. It encompasses nine

islands including: the five uninhabited islands of the Tobago Cays - Petit Rameau, Petit Bateau, Baradal, Petit Tabac and Jamesby; the uninhabitated islets off Mayreau - Catholic Island, Jondall and Mayreau Baleine; as well as the populated island of Mayreau itself. All scuba divers must be accompanied by staff from a registered local dive operator/shop. Do not damage or destroy the vegetation and remember that shoreline vegetation is essential for preventing beach erosion and stabilizing dunes. Corals are fragile and grow slowly so while snorkeling or diving, do not touch them. Do not anchor on coral or sea grass beds, use moorings where provided or select sandy areas. Do not remove any corals or other marine life. Do not fish. Do not buy lobster out of season (that is from May 1 to August 31). Do not litter or leave trash or discharge bilge or wastewater in the Marine Park. Do not disturb nesting or roosting seabirds. Do not exceed speed limit of five knots. Do not bring pets to the Park. Contact the Tobago Cays Marine Park for further information: Tel: (784) 485-8191 or

The Tobago Cays Marine Park Photo courtesy Kitesurfgrenadines.com

e-mail: tcmp191@hotmail.com

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent Tobago& Cays theMarine Grenadines Parkâ&#x20AC;&#x192; 121


Mayreau Saltwhistle Bay Photo: Mark Pratley Coast Internet Publishing - www.cipwd.com

“Mayreau Gardens: An excellent coral reef with lots of fish and colourful sponges for viewing by scuba divers.”

Saline Bay with the salt pond Photo: Mark Pratley Coast Internet Publishing - www.cipwd.com

Mayreau, with just one road, a single unnamed village, rain-caught drinking water, no airport, no bank and no electricity until 2003, represents a unique small island society. The mail boat, which arrives six days a week carrying much needed supplies, provides essential and affordable transport for residents to and from St. Vincent and other islands. Despite the fact that Mayreau remains relatively untouched, the islanders do cater to visitors with several bars, restaurants, shops and accommodation at Starfish Haven Apartments and Dennis’ Hideaway Guest House for those who wish to linger longer. One of Mayreau’s main attractions is the small Roman Catholic Church solidly built of local stone and perched on top of the central hill. With the added attraction of a small nature museum, this rustic building also offers a magnificent panoramic view from its lofty location - sweeping down over the village, the hillside, the coastline, across the sea and onto the spectacular beauty of the Tobago Cays. Nature lovers can ramble along several hiking trails with guides, where it is possible to spot wildlife, including harmless reptiles such as iguana, tortoise, tree frogs and ground lizards; along with many bird species, the most striking of which are the mockingbird, bananaquit, cuckoo and tiny hummingbird. Mayreau is blessed with several superb white-sand beaches and Saltwhistle Bay is the best of them all. With calm, turquoise water and a palm-fringed crescent of sand, this lovely bay is tranquil and charming. Nestled amongst the coconut trees can be found the tiny and exclusive Saltwhistle Bay Resort. The restaurant and bar, managed by a Barbadian chef, Justin Quinton, and a French restaurateur, Sonia Duchesse, is an ideal spot to enjoy a meal or cocktails in comfortable, idyllic surroundings. For a more ‘rootsy’ experience, there are several no-frills shacks dotted along the beach that serve food and drinks. Saline Bay in the south, with its nearly mile long, white sandy beach is another beautiful spot. It is very popular with visiting cruise ship passengers. Scuba divers who visit the island should arrange a visit to the Mayreau Gardens, one of the most spectacular coral reefs in the Southern Caribbean. If you visit Mayreau please do not dispose of any garbage, as there is no dump. Even if somebody offers to get rid of it for you, it is better to take it back off the island yourself.

Starfish Haven At Starfish Haven, you choose the rhythm of your stay. Relax in a peaceful tropical setting with breathtaking views on the breezy edge of Mayreau’s village. Or join in village life just steps away at one of the nearby shops, restaurants, bars or beaches. Enjoy our self-contained one-bedroom apartment with covered patio, fully-equipped eat-in kitchen, bathroom and sitting room from US$125 per night. The upstairs villa is also available for rental from US$200 per night. It features an expansive covered verandah, fully-equipped eat-in kitchen, two bedrooms and bathrooms, outdoor shower and sitting room.

For reservations e-mail: starfishhavenmayreau@gmail.com

For more information: facebook.com/StarfishHavenMayreau

122  Tobago Chartering Cays Marine Park


Horseshoe Reef in the Tobago Cays Marine Park Photo: Mark Pratley - Coast Internet Publishing - www.cipwd.com

The Tobago Cays “Among the highlights of a visit to the Cays is snorkeling on the Horseshoe Reef and the Baradal Turtle Sanctuary.”

The best picnic spot in the Cays is on Petit Bateau Photo courtesy kitesurfgrenadines.com

The Tobago Cays are a cluster of five tiny uninhabited islands, collectively sheltered from the open sea by the appropriately named Horseshoe Reef. This is considered to be the most scenic anchorage in the Grenadines and, for many people, the entire world. Petit Bateau, Petit Rameau, Petit Tabac, Baradal and Jamesby: Each of these delightful tiny islands offer surprisingly interesting hiking trails with an abundant variety of tropical flora, including bromeliads; as well as fauna such as iguanas, hermit crabs and of course, sea birds. They also provide excellent panoramic views and photo opportunities of the Grenadines. With shady areas and picnic tables, Petit Bateau provides the perfect picnic spot on both nice beaches on the western and eastern coasts. The swimming is best on the western coast. During the winter season it is adviseable to go as early as possible to secure your picnic table as it can get quite busy.

Baradal Turtle Sanctuary: This is a protected area, designated by marker buoys, where snorkelers can observe green and hawksbill turtles foraging freely. Keep a few feet between you and the turtles and do not touch or feed them. Petit Tabac: This isolated beach and wild tropical garden was the location where the desert island scene in “Pirates of the Caribbean: Curse of the Black Pearl” was filmed. The highlight of any visit to the Cays is the snorkeling on the Horseshoe Reef. It is best to be taken there by a tender or dinghy that will wait close by while you snorkel. Be careful of currents. All visitors to the Tobago Cays Marine Park are required to pay user fees according to the purpose of their visit; including visitors on private yachts, charter yachts, cruise ships and dive boats, who pay EC$10 per person and $5 for children aged 12 and under. The rate for a Yacht Mooring is EC$45 for 24-hours.

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  123


Union Island

124â&#x20AC;&#x192; Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


T

here’s a spirit of enterprise in Union Island that’s infusing new life into the visitor’s experience here. This ideally located

rendezvous in the heart of the Grenadines sits in some of the best sailing waters in the world. There are now five charter boat companies based in the sheltered anchorage of Clifton Harbour. Several new restaurants have opened in recents years giving the visitor a pleasing selection of dining options. The kitesurfing schools are growing enterprises because kiters who have discovered the amazing conditions in Union Island are now returning and bringing their friends. With such stunning scenery, Union Island has great potential for hiking, and members of the community have developed some interesting hikes, turtle watching expeditions and treks with the option of overnight camping under the stars. The reefs in this area are in wonderful condition. Testament to this is the fact that Jean-Michel Cousteau, son of the late, legendary explorer and conservationist Jacques Cousteau, has opened a dive centre called “Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Caribbean Divers” on the nearby private luxury island resort of Petit St. Vincent. In the small seaside town of Clifton you can find good quality supplies of local fruit and vegetables, fresh fish and lobster and imported gourmet favourites. Union Island is now a destination for visitors to the Grenadines so

There are many sides to Union Island

read on and make some plans to enjoy yourself.

Photo courtesy kitesurfgrenadines.com

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Union Grenadines Island  125


Discover

Union Island

Beaches & Anchorages

There is some excellent snorkeling around Union Island Photo courtesy kitesurfgrenadines.com

Clifton Harbour is a small, busy port and the centre of the daychartering industry in the southern Grenadines. It is the most popular mooring in Union as it is within close proximity to the Bougainvilla Hotel, Anchorage Yacht Club, several very good restaurants and bars, a few small supermarkets, hotels, guest houses and tourist information centres. JT Pro Center’s Kitsesurfing School, on Kite Beach in Clifton Harbour has continued to improve their facilities. Even if you don’t kitesurf, their beach bar is a cool place to go and relax or do some stand up paddling. Bigsand is a crescent-shaped beach on the east coast, where the new Sparrow’s Beach Club and Restaurant provides day moorings and serves delicious food and great cocktails with good facilities. The swimming here is ideal for everyone–from the oldest to the youngest. Their 5 minute shuttle from Clifton runs constantly from morning until late at night. Frigate Bay and Campbell Beach are spectacular with lovely calm sea and ideal conditions for both kitesurfing and stand up paddling. Chatham Bay is much less crowded with boats than Clifton Harbour. Sun, sea and beach lovers will enjoy Chatham Bay with the seasonal flocks of Pelicans, excellent snorkeling, beautiful sunsets and mesmerizing, crystal clear, teal coloured water. The best way to get there is by boat, although a four wheel drive vehicle can usually make the trip. There are several small operators with beach huts serving local food and cold drinks.

Sightseeing SUPing (Stand Up Paddling) with JT Pro Center Photo courtesy kitesurfgrenadines.com

There are some steep hiking trails through lush greenery to Parnassus and Mt. Olympus where the effort is rewarded with some truly spectacular views of the entire Grenadines. While you need to start out very early and be pretty fit to manage those climbs, there are plenty of less strenuous hikes such as walking over to Chatham Bay and through Campbell to the historical Basket Pond and Fort Irene. Island Adventure Tours offer guided tours, both hiking and driving. Tel Lesroy Noel (784) 526-6090 or Abdon Whyte (784) 526-4402. Union Island also has quite a good network of well-paved roads that can take you to good view points such as the old fort situated at the top of Fort Hill, some 450ft. above Clifton Harbour, and built sometime in the 17th century. Water taxis too are a popular mode of transport and are available in Clifton Harbour. Call Jude James who offers a reliable and efficient service. Tel: (784) 526-6891.

Festivals

Lesroy Noel of Island Adventure Tours Photo: Sally Miller

Easterval is Union Island’s annual cultural festival, a week of events held every Easter featuring music, a street party, parade, sporting events, beauty pageant, talent show, cultural performances and marvellous local cuisine. The Maroon Festival, held annually in May, celebrates the unique and vibrant culture of Union Island’s Maroon people through their music, dance and songs featuring the big drum and a variety of traditional dances.

126  Discover Chartering Union Island


SA

IN T

ES

BOARDIN TE KI LESSONS G

U N VIN NION ISLAND ADI N CEN T & THE GRE

ISLAND SAILING

Happy Kite

Happy Kite, our kiteboarding school in Clifton, offers kite lessons for all levels, from absolute beginners to advanced kiters looking to take their riding to the next level. Our instructors are experienced teachers looking to share their passion with you in the safest manner. In addition to kite lessons, we offer day trips by boat to other kite spots, downwinders, kite camps with accommodation & trips included, or we can help you find yachts or accommodation on land. We also do kite/board repairs. Our shop is located by the Clifton town square where we sell bikinis, board shorts, t-shirts, kite gear, local art, Annie France’s beautiful jewellery, yoga and much more. Everyone’s welcome to look in the shop, come by for a friendly chat or learn some of the secrets of the beautiful Grenadine islands.

Tel 1 (784) 430-8604

YACHT CHARTER

DAY TOURS

Sail Grenadines Take a day trip to Tobago Cays or a short cruise around the nearby islands. Learn to sail and take part as much as you would like to. For the adventurous, add kayaks, paddleboards, kiting, fishing and more to make a fun packed day or few days exploring. For a romantic cruise let us add the champagne, lobster bbq on the beach and sunset cocktails. All of our charters are tailor made to the individual guest, whether that be a day sail, over night trips between islands or week cruises. Let us know your plans and ideas or allow our team of local experts to put together a package for you to exceed your holiday expectations!

www.happykitegrenadines.com happykitegrenadines@gmail.com Clifton Harbour, Union Island fb:happykitegrenadines

Tel (784) 533-2909 / UK: 44 (0) 800-321-3801

Scaramouche - Renowned for Good Service!

Grenadines Dive

This original West Indian Schooner (used in Disney’s ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’) takes you under sail through the heart of the Grenadines… Mayreau, the Tobago Cays and other island gems. Enjoy one of their memorable day-trips out of Union Island; breakfast, a delicious plated lunch prepared by the onboard cook, open bar with a good selection available all day, including their legendary Scaramouche Rum Punch. Snorkeling equipment provided and a comfortable tender takes you to the Horseshoe Reef. Enchanting experiences, tailor-made for your dream event. Romantic weddings, Corporate functions, Film shoots... you name it!

Located at Clifton Harbour, Union Island, run by Naui instructor Glenroy Adams - an efficient operation catering to small groups who like to be involved in planning their dives. Instructors are NAUI or PADI professionals - resort courses to full certification. Their “rendezvous service” collects you from your yacht and takes you to any of the countless dive sites. As one diver put it, “The dive sites I visited seemed untouched. On many days I dove with the dive master only. On crowded days I dove with six others. This is SCUBA at its best...I have dived in areas ranging from the Pacific to the Indian Ocean, and from the Red Sea to Indonesia and beyond. The dive sites in your country rank on a world class level!”

Tel (784) 458-8418 / 455-1362 www.scaramouchegrenadines.com scaramouche@vincysurf.com

www.sailgrenadines.com | info@sailgrenadines.com Clifton Harbour, Union Island

Tel (784) 458-8138 | Fax (784) 458-8122

www.grenadinesdive.com | gdive@grenadinesdive.com

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  127


Anchorage Yacht Club

AYC is both a great place to stay and a perfect base for day trips to neighbouring islands

First opened in 1975 and long renowned as one of the stop-off points for anybody cruising or visiting the Grenadines, Anchorage Yacht Club on Union Island has recently undergone a complete rejuvenation under new ownership and new management. Seasoned travellers have always valued AYC’s central location right in the heart of the Grenadines and today, since reopening after renovations, a new wave of happy sailors and vacationers are enjoying this casual and comfortable hotel that provides an ideal Caribbean escape far away from the everyday hullabaloo and crowds of busy tourism destinations. Situated on a magnificent white sand beach with ideal swimming conditions and a splendid view across the turquoise waters of Clifton lagoon, AYC is both a great place to stay and a perfect base for day trips to neighbouring islands, including the truly magnificent Tobago Cays and nearby Palm Island.

128  Union Island

Distributed over 10 acres of beachfront property, the 15 rooms at AYC all benefit from a seafront location – some on the first floor with a panoramic view over the marina, while the rest are directly on the beach. Whilst refurbishing AYC to offer improved amenities and services, the property’s new owners have also invested in employing and training helpful and friendly members of staff who are ever willing to look after their guests and ensure that they have a happy experience. Alison greets guests at the airport or on the jetty at the harbour, Peter or Louie serve arrival drinks, while Cordelia and her team handle the check-in and assist guests throughout their stay. Carla is the Food and Beverage Manager who makes sure that service runs smoothly at the AYC Bar and Restaurant, where the chefs makes good use of local ingredients, especially locally grown fruit and vegetables,


fresh fish and seasonal lobster from their lobster pond. Some of the kitchen’s specialities include its ciabatta sandwiches, croissants, fresh pasta and excellent burgers. The popular AYC bar serves international favourite brands as well as tropical drinks, delicious cocktails and an extensive selection of 60 Caribbean rums. Once a month in season, as a special treat, the JT Pro Center organizes fantastic beach parties at full moon, featuring a night kitesurfing show and dancing all night long. The performance includes an amazing light show and everyone carries glow sticks, fire flares and fun lights, creating one of the highlights on Union Island’s social calendar. For those who just want some rest and relaxation, AYC’s Benji Beach is a perfect spot to soak up the sun on a beach chair or bathe in calm, crystal clear water. On the other hand, anybody who enjoys an active holiday can choose from a wide range of exciting activities. Kite Beach is blessed by constant winds that are ideal for kitesurfing. The JT Pro Center is located at AYC and they offer beginner kitesurfing courses, advanced lessons and private pro clinics. Anyone interested in learning kiteboarding can sign up for a three-day course. The lagoon is also ideal for stand up paddling. Divers, from complete beginners to professionals, can experience some of the best diving conditions in the world conveniently close to Union Island. AYC also works closely with professional fishermen who specialize in deepsea fishing. For a more leisurely activity, guests can enjoy the

magical experience of sailing in the Grenadines, including snorkeling with sea turtles in the Tobago Cays and visiting Salt Whistle Bay in Mayreau or many other stunning beaches. In all cases, daily excursions can be reserved in the AYC reception and the trips all start at the resort’s own jetty. Life at Anchorage Yacht Club moves at real ‘island time’, providing a happy balance of good service and the relaxing vibe of an authentic Caribbean holiday.

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  129


The lagoon at JT Pro Center in Union Island provides absolutely amazing conditions for kitesurfing

Kite Beach is also a lovely spot to have fun and enjoy the most decadent day hanging out at the JT Pro Beach Bar with free Wi-Fi, lounge day beds, beach chairs and beach toys while being served ice cold drinks.

JT Pro Center Kitesurfing School The JT Pro Center on Kite Beach in Union Island is a global sensation in the world of kitesurfing. Run by Jeremie Tronet, a professional kitesurfer, this kiteschool has redefined Union Island as ‘the’ action spot in St. Vincent and The Grenadines, and indeed the world, for water board sports. The combination of the absolutely amazing conditions, the facilities and unique services offered by Jeremie and his team create a fantastic experience. Although some beginners learn faster than others, Jeremie says 3 to 4 hours will get you up on the board and feeling the sensation. Anyone wanting to learn should be aware that offers of kitesurfing lessons at cheaper rates probably don’t respect international safety guidelines and are not affiliated to an insured and certified kite centre. For the experienced kiteboarder there are photo and video shoots using professional camera equipment, advanced lessons to improve style from the most basic trick to the most advanced handle passes and boat tours to hidden spots. Imagine you and your friends, the only people riding, assisted by pro kiters ready to shoot all your moves and give you the best advice to land any of your tricks – kiter’s heaven! Advanced lessons given by Jeremie are the way to go to progress and land new tricks faster. If the wind isn’t present for a day or two or you are not a kiter, you will be able to experience deep sea fishing, surfing and SUPing tours. Kite Beach is also a lovely spot to have fun and enjoy the most decadent day hanging out at their Beach Bar with free Wi-Fi, lounge day beds, beach chairs and beach toys while being served ice cold drinks. They do a great JT Rum Punch for 4 served in a beach bucket! The 5 min. walk from the jetty in Clifton Harbour to JT Pro Center is really worth it! The kiteschool provides an air compressor for kiters to fill their own kites. Any kitesurfer coming to kite should check in at the kiteschool to find out about the rules.

130  Discover Union Island


For those who come to Union Island with one of the kitesurfgrenadines.com packages, the accommodations are a mere 100 metres from the kite spot and 15 metres from the beautiful blue lagoon. JT Pro Center offers wonderful SUP tours paddling downwind with the currents from Kite Beach around to the Frigate Island lagoon and mangroves with clear water and bird life, through the quaint village of Ashton, finishing on Campbell beach. Jeremie says this tour is such a breeze you can do it lying down. Kite Beach is also the party centre! This is especially true at the JT Pro Center Full Moon Beach Party - now a well talked about party in St. Vincent and the Grenadines because of the “Moon-Light Kitesurfing Show”. The party features all music genres, which brings tourists and locals of all ages together for a unique party experience once a month. Around 6:30pm, people start gathering as the barbecue food stalls fire up and the bar starts serving a wide selection of drinks. The party is then illuminated by the light show where glow sticks, glow balls, lasers and fireballs share the moonlight. International professional kitesurfer Jeremie Tronet gives an amazing night kitesurfing show with fire on the water only a few feet away from the spectators dancing on the beach. For the dates of the 2016 full moon parties see our calendar of events on pages 8-12. With this wonderful kitesurfing school and all the activities that JT Pro Center has introduced, Union Island is now rising as the cool, new place to be!

Tel (784) 527-8363 or (784) 434-0764 info@kitesurfgrenadines.com www.kitesurfgrenadines.com

Moonlight Kitesurfing Show by Jeremie Tronet

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  131


Wind and Sea at Bougainvilla Wind and Sea, located at the Bougainvilla complex in Union Island, has almost 30 years experience sailing in the Grenadines. With a fleet of beautiful, sleek catamarans they offer 3 distinct services. 1. Agent and tour operator to cruise ships coming to the southern Grenadines, they arrange beach parties at Mayreau and boat excursions to the Tobago Cays. 2. Private day charters to the surrounding islands of Mayreau, the Tobago Cays, Palm Island, Canouan, St. Vincent, Mustique, PSV and Morpion. Guests can be collected from anywhere between St. Vincent and PSV and sail to the destinations of their choice. These catamarans are great for stable and fast cruising, and their low draught enables them to cruise in shallower waters. Guests can relax on the spacious decks and soak up the sun as they cruise the beautiful waters of the Grenadines, exploring stunning coastlines and enjoying the tranquillity of deserted coves and bays. Snorkeling equipment is supplied and there is a fully stocked bar – lunch is either buffet-style onboard, or ashore in one of the islands. The experienced and friendly crew is constantly on hand to help make your cruise a truly memorable experience. 3. Over-night & long stay charters

Tel (784) 458-8678/8878 After Hours (784) 493-3128

Wind and Sea: windandsealtd@gmail.com Bougainvilla: laquarium8678@gmail.com www.grenadines-bougainvilla.com www.grenadines-windandsea.com Clifton, Union Island

Docking Facilities • Ice & Water • Laundry Service • Juice Bar • Apartments & Rooms • Restaurant & Bar • Free Dinghy Marina

132  Discover Union Island


The Hugh Mulzac Square has plenty of fresh local produce for sale Photo: Sally Miller

Shopping & Services

Lovely hamburger buns baked by Lloyd Adams at Grand Ma-N-Pa Supermarket Photo: Sally Miller

The quaint main street of Clifton in Union Island is lined on either side with shops and businesses offering goods and services to visiting yachtspeople and guests in the Grenadines. An array of fresh fruit and vegetables is always available from the brightly coloured market stalls in Clifton Harbour and in the public market. Fresh fish is sold at the fisheries next to Customs. If you’re serious about stocking up, the shops will deliver goods to your yacht or villa if required. WiFi is available at JT Pro Beach Bar on Kite Beach, Anchorage Yacht Club, Captain Gourmet, L’Aquarium Restaurant at Bougainvilla, Snack Shack and Sparrow’s Beach Club. Erika’s Marine provides wireless Internet and the use of their computers, marine services such as laundry, travel arrangements, customs clearance, a good book exchange service and DVD rentals.

134  Shopping Chartering & Services in Union Island


Information - Information and assistance can be obtained from Erika’s Marine Services in Clifton Harbour at (784) 485-8335 or the Tourism Bureau in Clifton - Tel: (784) 458-8350 open Mon. to Fri. 9am - 4pm (Lunch 12noon - 1pm) or Tobago Cays Marine Park office in Clifton - Tel: (784) 485-8191 open Mon. to Fri. 8am - 4pm. Ferry Services - Ferry services operate to and from St. Vincent, Bequia, Canouan and Mayreau with the MV Gem Star and Jaden Sun Fast Passenger Ferry. Customs & Immigration - Clifton is the southern port of entry for customs clearance in St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Customs is located by the main wharf in Clifton Harbour (open Mon. to Fri. 8:30am - 4pm) Tel: (784) 485-8294, and at the Airport (open daily from 7am - 6pm) Tel: (784) 458-8360. Immigration service for yachtsmen is now also offered in the Union Island Tourist Information Office Mon. to Fri. 9am - 4pm (closed for lunch 12 noon - 1pm). The immigration office is also at the airport. Banking - The Bank of St. Vincent & the Grenadines is open Mon. to Thu. 8am - 2pm and Fri. 8am - 5pm. There is a 24-hr ATM machine. Medical Services - Union Island Health Centre, Clifton Hill, Clifton (784) 458-8339; Harvey’s Pharmacy, located on Back Street in Clifton, is available for medications and more (784) 458-8596. Pharmacy hours are Mon. to Sat. 9am - 7pm (closed from 1pm - 4pm). Manicures, Pedicures, Massage and Reflexology - Sparrow’s Beach Club has a small spa. Phone (784) 458-8195. There is a complimentary shuttle - Phone: (784) 454-1888.

Mare Blu Boutique at Bougainvilla Photo: Sally Miller

Island Adventure Tours Discover the unexpected! Reasonable Prices and Good Value! Island Tours Tailored to your needs. Full Day Excursion Minimum of 4 persons with island BBQ. Union Island Experience 8 hour expedition with hiking, visits to sights of interest and a Beach BBQ. Snacks and lunch. Guided Hiking Minimum of 4 persons. Meals can be arranged. Vehicle Rental Daily, weekly and monthly rentals. Reasonable prices. Taxi Service Excellent Rates.

Tel Lesroy Noel (784) 526-6090 Abdon Whyte (784) 526-4402

Captain Gourmet

Nicholas and Linda Dulac run a first rate café and grocery that has been supplying yachts in the Grenadines since 1998. Nicholas bakes fresh croissant and breads–white & multi-grain. He flies to Martinique weekly to collect all kinds of goodies from France. Good selection of wines from around the world, liquors and Cuban cigars. The sandwiches with all fresh local ingredients are famous. Take-away baked local chicken and salads. Freshly ground coffee. Healthy smoothies. Delivery Services. Credit cards, Euros and USD accepted.

Tel (784) 458-8918

www.captaingourmet.com capgourmet@vincysurf.com Clifton Harbour, Union Island

Grand Ma-n-Pa Supermarket

Union Island’s supermarket since 1974. Cadbury chocolates, fresh eggs, vegetables and fruit in season. Union Island agents for Hairoun beer. Excellent prices on liquor. A wide selection to meet all your grocery and hardware needs. Grand Ma N Pa delivers to yachts and Palm Island. Proprietor Lloyd Adams makes fresh local bread daily. His corned local tuna is a good salt fish. Interestingly he also prepares mud masks, scrubs, herbal skin creams and baby powder. Open Mon-Sat 6am-6pm. Sun 7am-12noon.

Tel (784) 458-8178

fireburn94@yahoo.com Clifton Harbour, Union Island. Opposite the bank, by the ferry terminal

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  135


Restaurants & Nightlife

The Snack Shack is the new daily hang out spot on Union Island Photo courtesy kitesurfgrenadines.com

L’Aquarium Restaurant & Bar Photo courtesy kitesurfgrenadines.com

Barracuda Restaurant

Union Island is on the rise with new restaurants and bars opening up and the old familiar ones getting better and better all the time! It is an excellent place to enjoy some great food and entertainment. On the main street of Clifton, Captain Gourmet serves the most delicious sandwiches using their own homemade bread and mayonnaise and only the very best fresh local ingredients. They have just started selling cooked take away dishes such as local baked chicken. They are open for breakfast until late afternoon. Just next door, the Snack Shack is a trendy little hang out spot, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner with live entertainment some nights. Good salads, paninis, smoothies and cocktails. Martiniquan restaurateur, Gregory Griffith brings the flavours of Martinique and the world to L’Aquarium at Bougainvilla in the centre of Clifton Harbour. Their free dinghy marina is useful. Anchorage Yacht Club is another lovely spot to sit and watch the boats in the harbour. Under new management, the chef is constantly improving the menu and they have over 60 Caribbean rums on offer. Listen out for the happy hour bell! The Italian couple at Barracuda Restaurant and Bar serve delicious Italian favourites using the fresh produce of SVG. They sometimes ship in specialities such as truffles! From December to April Lambi’s Restaurant and Bar can be counted on every night for traditional Caribbean steelpan music with limbo dancing. Sparrow’s Beach Club and Restaurant at Big Sands hosts live music one or two nights a week and very good DJ music on most nights. Things really heat up when the girls pole dance in the middle of Bertrand’s new bar. Their shuttle bus from Clfton takes just 5 minutes and comes back and forth all night so you are never stranded. Sparrow’s quality and preparation of fresh local fish and lobster is excellent. One of Union Island’s biggest nightlife attractions is the Full Moon Beach Parties and Kitesurfing Shows. Held from December through to May, they attract over 300 people of all ages and nationalities. See pages 129 & 131.

Photo courtesy kitesurfgrenadines.com

136  Restaurants Chartering and Union Island


Sparrow’s Beach Club & Restaurant The new hot spot, “Sparrow’s Beach Club”. Union Island presents a new, high quality concept at Big Sand Bay, Sparrow’s Beach Club with excellent food and top quality service. The beautiful white sand beach has a gently sloping access to the always calm and turquoise sea. The Beach Club is perfectly equipped with beach beds, shower on the beach, spa, massage, reflexology and watersports.

Your favourite Caribbean Cocktails - Mojito, Sparrow’s Rum Punch and Piña Colada will be served under the shade of a coconut tree or in an intimate and private gazebo. Everything is organized for the comfort and tranquility of guests who are always welcomed by pleasant and smiling staff. After swimming and a few cocktails, a tastefully decorated, refined restaurant will offer you the catch of the day or a live lobster from the pond, or one of the chef’s specialities like Tuna Sashimi, Carpaccio, Tartare, or the home made smoked Marlin from the varied menu. For dessert, you can indulge in crème brulée, lemon pie, banana flambée and chocolate mousse. A free shuttle for Sparrow’s Restaurant guests will take you from Clifton Harbour and bring you back at your convenience. The owner, Bertrand Sailly, well known Union Island businessman and outstanding fisherman, also offers real estate services through his company, Grenadines Island Estates. In a very short time Sparrow’s Beach Club has become “the place to be”, it has been a much needed addition to the Union Island social scene. Day moorings are available; Charter boats can spend the day there and then sail over to Chatham Bay or Clifton Harbour to spend the night. A wonderful, social place for the sailors, the locals and for all visitors in love with the Grenadines…

Reservations (784) 458-8195 Shuttle (784) 454-1888 Manager Bertrand Sailly (784) 593-1713 www.sparrowsbeachclub.com sparrowsbeachclub@gmail.com Big Sands, Union Island

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  137


JT Pro Beach Bar

The Snack Shack

Jude’s Boat Taxi

Kite Beach is a lovely spot to have fun and enjoy the most decadent day hanging out at their Beach Bar with free Wi-Fi, lounge day beds, beach chairs and beach toys while being served ice cold drinks. They do a great JT Rum Punch for 4 served in a beach bucket! The 5 min. walk from the jetty in Clifton Harbour to JT Pro Center is really worth it!

The Snack Shack is the new daily hang out spot on Union Island from 7.30am until late. When there’s live entertainment it can go on until the early hours! Located near the Fruit Market in Clifton, they offer free WIFI & the best coffee! Specialising in paninis, salads, desserts, smoothies and tantalising Caribbean cocktails. Drop in for breakfast, lunch, dinner or just a chat and a drink. Live music features weekly. Check their Facebook page for more details.

Jude offers a reliable boat taxi service between the Tobago Cays, Mayreau, Palm Island, Union Island and PSV. Reasonable prices and reliability with polite and friendly service are his hallmark. You can call on Jude for transfers at arrival or departure, half or whole day trips exploring, beach picnics, snorkeling trips or shopping. He will also collect and deliver supplies. A Member of the Boat Taxi Association.

info@kitesurfgrenadines.com www.kitesurfgrenadines.com

Tel (784) 434-0764

Tel (784) 526-6891

Lambi’s Guest House

Lambi’s Supermarket

Lambi’s Restaurant

Located right on the seafront in the heart of Clifton Harbour, Union Island with Lambi’s Supermarket and Lambi’s Restaurant and Bar downstairs. All rooms are ensuite, with cable TV, air-conditioning and fans. Some rooms have a small fridge. Rates start at EC$95 for a double and EC$75 for a single.

The grocery you are wishing for! Excellent choice and quality of products, such as daily made fresh yogurt, cheeses, baguettes and croissants baked on the premises, choice cuts of imported meat, European sausages and hams, plus a first-rate selection of wines, liquors and Cuban cigars. Delivery Services. Credit cards, Euros and USD accepted. Open 7 days per week, 8am-6pm.

In season (Nov-May) 3 daily buffets: breakfast (EC$30), lunch (from EC$45) and dinner (EC$50). Steelband jump-up and limbo dancing every night. Free dinghy pick-up in Clifton Harbour. Captain’s dinner and welcome drink is free for a group of 6. Dinner buffet of 50 dishes – fish, chicken, lambi (conch), pork, beef, lobster, shrimp & crab, a variety of salads and desserts. Try a special Lambi’s cocktail “Hurricane”, “Jump-up”, rum punch. Dinghy dock with ice, water, gas, diesel, laundry & garbage service. Mooring free to diners.

Lambi (784) 458-8549

Lambi (784) 458-8549

Lambi (784) 458-8549

Tel (784) 527-8363 or (784) 434-0764

Clifton, Union Island

138  Chartering

Clifton Harbour, Union Island

Clifton, Union Island

Clifton Harbour, Union Island

Clifton, Union Island


L’Aquarium Restaurant & Bar

Martiniquan restaurateur, Gregory Griffith brings the flavours of Martinique and the world to L’Aquarium, situated on the picturesque waterfront of Clifton Harbour at the lovely Bougainvilla Hotel. A variety of pizzas, fresh fish and lobster are served at lunch and dinner. His lunch specialties are pita bread filled with “salad gourmand”, crépes and club sandwiches. Every evening begins with happy hour from 5.30-6.30pm; then he serves a delicious dinner which includes beef tenderloin and chicken. Fresh lobster from the lobster tank. We recommend their speciality–Tuna Tac Tac–fresh local tuna with a balsamic caramel and toasted sesame seeds. Delicious!

Tel (784) 458-8678

www.grenadines-bougainvilla.com laquarium.restaurantsvg@gmail.com Bougainvilla Hotel, Clifton Harbour, Union Island

Bougainvilla Hotel

Barracuda Restaurant & Bar

Bougainvilla enjoys an exceptional waterfront location in the heart of Clifton Harbour within easy walking distance to shops, local bars and restaurants along the harbour front. The hotel has 6 en-suite rooms with kitchen facilities, and 6 single rooms all with air-conditioning, cable TV and Wifi, and tastefully decorated to provide the most comfortable experience for guests. The hotel’s restaurant, L’Aquarium, is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Check out their new organic “Juice Bar” preparing fresh veggie and fruit juices and healthy energy smoothies.

Giancarlo and Tiziana Tiezzi have brought the wonderful authentic cuisine of Florence to Union Island. Chef Tiziana, a certified Italian pizza maker, prepares delicious fresh pasta with fresh fish, conch and lobster, as well as a wide selection of international and Caribbean specialties. They have a carefully selected wine list and cakes for special occasions can be ordered. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner everyday.

Tel (784) 458-8678 / 8878

Tel (784) 458-8571

www.grenadines-bougainvilla.com laquarium8678@gmail.com

giancarlotiezzi@gmail.com Clifton Harbour, Union Island

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines  139


Private Island Resorts 140â&#x20AC;&#x192; Calendar of Events: Month to Month 201x


S

t. Vincent & the Grenadines is home to three relatively small, pleasantly exclusive, private island resorts - Palm Island, Petit St. Vincent and Young Island - which often inspire travel writers from all around the world to reel off a succession of adjectives such as ‘idyllic’, ‘pristine’ and ‘blissful’. These resorts are similar in that they are true tropical island hideaways that can provide the ultimate in vacation relaxation, yet they differ by each having their own very distinct character. Petit St. Vincent, or PSV as it is more familiarly known, is a luxury island resort that has won many awards and accolades. With 22 recently renovated, private cottages and villas scattered over its 113 acres of tropical hillsides, PSV is synonymous with elegantly comfortable relaxation and secluded peace. The resort’s Dive Centre, run by Jean-Michel Cousteau, is rapidly becoming the most exclusive dive operation in the southern Caribbean. Palm Island is a 135-acre tropical paradise where an award winning ‘boutique resort’ has been harmoniously developed alongside an authentic nature reserve. Also blessed with some of the finest beaches in the Grenadines, Palm Island is a rarely found, veritable sanctuary for regenerating a healthy body, mind and soul. There are also a handful of private homes available for rent. Occupying a tiny island of just 35 acres, Young Island (see pages 62 & 63) is located a mere 200 yards from the southern shoreline of St. Vincent. Positioned so close to the mainland, yet still being a private island comprising just 30 guest cottages, Young Island can offer the best of both worlds – easy access to the attractions of St. Vincent, combined with the luxurious tranquility of a secluded hideaway. Palm Island Photo: Mark Pratley Coast Internet Publishing - www.cipwd.com

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent Private & the Island Grenadines Resorts  141


Palm Island The Pearl of the Grenadines Part of the Grenadines archipelago located between St. Vincent and Grenada, and comprising 135-acres of pure paradise, Palm Island is not only a private all-inclusive resort but also an entire fascinating, charming and idyllic island literally at our guests’ disposal. After a 45-minute flight from Barbados to Union Island, followed by a smooth 8-minutes boat trip, you will reach your dream destination. Palm Island, which features an elegant and refined resort with five pristine white sand beaches, incredibly blue turquoise sea and truly perfect swimming conditions, is very close to the world famous Tobago Cays, a place not to be missed by any nature and sea lovers. The resort offers 41 accommodations and 2 luxury villas, all carefully designed to blend in complete harmony with the untouched natural environment of their beautiful island setting. All the rooms are air-conditioned and elegantly appointed with custom bamboo furnishings and woven rattan ceilings. Each room is equipped with kettles, coffee makers, mini-fridges, safes, hairdryers and comfortable cotton bathrobes. The all-inclusive Palm Island Resort retreat includes three superb meals a day, with a choice of two restaurants, daily afternoon tea, weekly manager’s cocktail party, top-shelf beverages, various barbecues and night entertainment. General facilities include a boutique, a spa, a library, a satellite TV lounge, Internet access and a freshwater

swimming pool. For those guests who enjoy some activity, Palm offers complimentary tennis, croquet, table tennis, cycling, snorkeling and an array of non-motorized water sports. Palm Island can also organize memorable excursions to the nearby Tobago Cays, Mopion Island or Chatham Bay, as well as scuba diving, kitesurfing, deep-sea fishing charters or a beautiful sunset sail on board Pink Lady. A member of the Green Globe initiative, Palm Island plays an active role in the protection of its environment, flora and fauna. Don’t be surprised to meet many tortoises, interesting birds and our famous indigenous iguanas during your walks. Recent additions to Palm’s environmental programme include a greenhouse and compost system. Palm Island also actively supports the local community by organizing its famous crab racing and cricket matches. Dedicated to customizing each guest experience, the resort offers an amazing personalized service. People may arrive as guests but often leave as friends. If you want to be pampered and to experience total relaxation, Palm Island is the right place to completely disconnect and re-energize. Our famous Sunset Restaurant & Bar has been revamped to accommodate all our daily visitors–don’t miss the opportunity to try the best of the creole cuisine in a paradise setting. Restaurant Reservations Tel (784) 458-8221. For further information, please visit our website at www.palmislandresortgrenadines.com

142  Private Chartering Island Resorts


Rentals at Palm Villa

Palm Villa is a privately owned beach house on Palm Island with a remarkable oceanfront location on a superb beach with stunning views of the neighbouring islands. Surrounded by coconut trees and steps away from the sea, Palm Villa is a true beach house that has been furnished and equipped for a comfortable and enjoyable vacation that offers all the pleasures of tropical indoor-outdoor living. Palm Villa is a haven for people who enjoy peace, natural beauty, stunning seascapes, sailing, snorkeling, diving, beachcombing, walking, birds, wildlife and photography. Palm Villa guests do not automatically qualify for general use of the Palm Island Resort facilities but upon request can be accommodated at the Sunset Restaurant and Bar, the Spa Salon and the Boutique. The popular housekeeper, Elizabeth, can make your stay easily managed and memorable. Assistance can be provided with boat transfers and pre-ordering food and supplies. A variety of shops, bars, restaurants, entertainment, kiteboarding, diving and other watersports activities are all available just a short water-taxi ride away on Union Island.

Private Villa On theBeach in Palm Island u Comfortably furnished u 2 bedrooms u Large patio u Well equipped kitchen u Housekeeping services incl. u Cook available Tel: (246) 262-5874 or (246) 262-5875 e-mail: keith@millerpublishing.net

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadinesâ&#x20AC;&#x192; 143


The beach restaurant at PSV

Discover Petit St. Vincent

A member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World and National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World, PSV is the epitome of a ‘secluded and unplugged’ private island paradise. Tucked away in a tranquil corner of the southern Grenadines, and recognized as a 2015 Andrew Harper’s Readers’ Choice Winner in the International Hideaways and Top Beach Resort categories, the hallmark of PSV is barefoot elegance accompanied by unobtrusive attentive service. With just 22 spacious 1-bedroom cottages and 2-bedroom beach villas, discretely nestled amongst 115-acres of tropical beauty, PSV caters predominantly to discerning guests in search of an exclusive vacation experience that combines both luxury and escape. All of the accommodations benefit from absolute privacy and offer the ultimate in serene seclusion. There are no TVs, telephones or Wi-Fi in the rooms and there is no need to hang up the Do Not Disturb sign: a red flag flying outside guarantees guests are not interrupted, while hoisting a yellow flag summons room service and the prompt arrival of a waiter in a mini-moke. Residents can dine in private or at either of two restaurants, one hillside and one beachside, where accomplished chefs offer a variety of creative cuisine inspired by locally-caught seafood and PSV’s organic island-grown herbs, fruit and vegetables. There are weekly beach barbecues with great local music, and occasional special culinary events hosted by visiting chefs and vintners who give wine and rum tastings as well as cooking lessons. And to create an extra special vacation memory, PSV guests can enjoy a private picnic lunch or candlelight dinner anywhere on the island.

Blessed with over a mile of delightful white sand beaches and surrounded by the clearest, bluest, most crystalline seawater imaginable, PSV is a haven for outdoors relaxation or leisurely activities such as non-motorized water sports or day trips to surrounding islands. For the more adventurous, the resort is particularly proud of its excellent, state-of-the art Dive Centre, operated by Jean-Michel Cousteau, son of the legendary JacquesYves Cousteau, which caters to both divers and snorkelers and offers underwater safaris with on staff marine biologists and naturalists. Of course PSV is all about savouring life, so guests can unwind in two yoga pavilions or enjoy unadulterated pampering at the Balinese-run luxury spa and wellness centre. Getting to Petit St. Vincent has never been easier, as the resort now utilises a private aircraft charter with Mustique Airways (the longest operating airline in the Grenadines), which provides a round trip Barbados-Union Island route exclusively for PSV guests. Those guests who prefer to fly in their own private jet can be accommodated at the nearby Canouan Island airport, from where they will transfer to PSV by private boat.

For beach restaurant reservations: (784) 458-8801 For hotel reservations: +1 (800) 654-9326 or +1 (954) 963-7401 info@petitstvincent.com www.petitstvincent.com

144  Private Island Resorts


The beach restaurant at PSV

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadinesâ&#x20AC;&#x192; 145


ST. VINCENT

Adams Apartments

Barefoot Suites

Bay Hill Apartments

L: Arnos Vale, St. Vincent W: www.adamsapts.com T: 784 458-4656 | F: 784 456-4728 E: info@adamsapts.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$36 - $55 Rooms: 9

L: Blue Lagoon, Ratho Mill, St. Vincent W: www.barefootyachts.com T: 784 456-9526 / 9334 | F: 784 456-9238 E: barebum@vincysurf.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$90 Rooms: 5 | Page No.: 64

L: Cane Garden, St. Vincent W: www.bayhillapartmentsvg.com T: 784 456-5419 / 4480 | F: 784 456-1301 E: bayhillapts@vincysurf.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$75 Rooms: 10

Beachcombers Hotel

Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina

Buccament Bay Resort

L: Villa Beach, St. Vincent W: www.beachcombershotel.com T: 784 458-4283 | F: 784 458-4385 E: beachcombers@vincysurf.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website Rooms: 48 | Page No.: 62

L: Blue Lagoon, Ratho Mill, St. Vincent W: www.bluelagoonsvg.com T: 784 458-4308 E: info@bluelagoonsvg.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website Rooms: 19 | Page No.: 69

L: Buccament, St. Vincent W: www.buccamentbay.com T: 784 457-4100 | F: 784 457-4200 E: bb-reservations@buccamentbay.com Distance from airport/mins. 40-45 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website Rooms: 102

Cobblestone Inn

Eco Bay Guest House

Fort View Apartments

L: Kingstown, St. Vincent W: www.thecobblestoneinn.com T: 784 456-1937 | F: 784 456-1938 E: cobblestone@vincysurf.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$80 - $100 Rooms: 26

L: Arnos Vale, St. Vincent | Rooms: 3 W: www.ecobayguesthouse.com T: 784 456-1844 / 011 44 794 601 6186 (UK) E: eco-village@hotmail.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$110 - $160

L: Edinboro, St. Vincent T: 784 451-2005 E: fortview97@yahoo.com Distance from airport/mins. 15 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$40 - $45 Rooms: 7

Grand View Beach Hotel

Grenadine House

Haddon Hotel

L: Villa Point, St. Vincent | Rooms: 19 W: www.grandviewhotel.com T: 784 458-4811 | F: 784 457-4174 E: grandview@vincysurf.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer • US$129 Winter • US$154 | Page No.: 64/65

L: Kingstown Park, St. Vincent | Rooms: 18 W: www.grenadinehouse.com T: 784 458-1800 | F: 784 458-1333 E: stay@grenadinehouse.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer • US$150 - $210 Winter • US$170 - $230 | Page No.: 68

L: Kingstown, St. Vincent W: www.haddonhotel.com T: 784 456-1897 | F: 784 456-2027 E: haddonhotel@yahoo.com Distance from airport/mins. 7 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$105 - $165 Rooms: 19

Hillside Apartments

Hotel Alexandrina

Marina Hotel (at St. Vincent Yacht Club)

L: Villa, St. Vincent W: www.hillsideapartmentssvg.com T: 784 457-5134 | F: 784 457-4678 E: hillside@vincysurf.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$60 - $115 Rooms: 6 | Page No.: 66

L: Prospect, St. Vincent W: www.hotelalexandrina.com T: 784 456-9788 / 528-6000 E: hotelalexandrina@aol.com Distance from airport/mins. 15 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$75 - $250 Rooms: 27 | Page No.: 66/67

L: Ratho Mill, St. Vincent T: 784 457-2827 E: ernestadamas@hotmail.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$118 - $125 Rooms: 5

While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information in this accommodation guide, some information is subject to change without notice. Unless stated otherwise, prices shown are daily rates, double occupancy, quoted in US dollars and subject to local taxes and service charge.

146

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ST. VINCENT

Mariners Hotel

Paradise Beach Hotel & Spa

Richview Guest House

L: Villa Beach, St. Vincent W: www.marinershotel.com T: 784 457-4000 / 1-800-223-1108 (USA) | F: 784 457-4333 E: frontdesk@marinershotel.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer • US$125 | Winter • US$145 Rooms: 20 | Page No.: 62/63

L: Villa Beach, St. Vincent | Rooms: 17 W: www.paradisesvg.com T: 784 457-4795 | F: 784 457-5577 E: info@paradisesvg.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$85 - $125 Page No.: 64/65

L: Sion Hill Bay, St. Vincent W: www.richviewguesthouse.com T: 784 482-9500 / 533-4137 E: richview06@yahoo.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$90 Rooms: 14 | Page No.: 66

Ridgeview Terrace Apartments

Rosewood Apartment Hotel

Seasplash Apartments

L: Ratho Mill, St. Vincent W: www.ridgeviewterrace.com T: 784 457-4153 / 430-1015 | F: 784 457-5959 E: rojen@vincysurf.com Distance from airport/mins. 15 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$120 Rooms: 5

L: Rose Cottage, Villa, St. Vincent W: www.rosewoodsvg.com T: 784 457-5051 | F: 784 457-5141 E: rosewood@vincysurf.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$78 - $86 Rooms: 10 | Page No.: 66

L: Indian Bay, St. Vincent W: www.seasplashapartments.com T: 784 431-1085 | F: 784 451-2777 E: info@seasplashapartments.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$60 - $110 Rooms: 7 | Page No.: 64

Sky Blue Beach Apartments

Sunset Shores Beach Hotel

Tranquillity Beach Apt. Hotel

L: Indian Bay, St. Vincent W: www.skybluebeach.com T: 784 457-4394 | F: 784 457-5232 E: skyblue@vincysurf.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer • US$60 - $70 Winter • US$78 - $84 | Rooms: 7

L: Villa Beach, St. Vincent | Rooms: 32 W: www.sunsetshores.com facebook.com/SunsetShoresBH T: 784 458-4411 | F: 784 457-4800 E: info@sunsetshores.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 | Page No.: 66/67 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website

L: Indian Bay, St. Vincent W: www.tranquillityhotel.com T: 784 458-4021 E: info@tranquillityhotel.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$70 Rooms: 7

White Sands Cottages

Young Island Resort

L: Ratho Mill, St. Vincent W: www.whitesandsinc.net T: 784 528-9855 / 433-3334 E: whitesandsinc@gmail.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$120 Rooms: 16 | Page No.: 62

L: Young Island, St. Vincent | Rooms: 29 W: www.youngisland.com T: 784 458-4826 | F: 784 457-4567 E: frontdesk@youngisland.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website Page No.: 62/63

Some hotels have peak periods within the Winter Season when rates may vary. A number of the hotels offer specials during the Summer Season - these rates are available on request. Please check with the individual property or the SVG Hotel & Tourism Association. Tel: (784) 458-4379, or visit their website at www.svghotels.com, for up-to-date information.

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BEQUIA

Bequia Beach Hotel

Bequia Plantation Hotel

Bob’s Place

L: Friendship Bay, Bequia | Rooms: 58 W: www.bequiabeach.com T: 784 458-1600 | F: 784 458-1700 E: info@bequiabeach.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website Page No.: 104

L: Admiralty Bay, Bequia T: 784 458-4308 E: info@bluelagoonsvg.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer/Winter • Rates on Request Page No.: 111

L: Lower Bay, Bequia E: christiex5@hotmail.com Distance from airport/mins. 15 Rooms: 3 Rates: Summer/Winter • Rates on Request Page No.: 110

Cassava House

De Reef Apartments

Dragonfly Villa

L: Lower Bay, Bequia W: www.cassava-house.com T: 784 527-9188 / UK: 00 44 7836 256750 E: contactus@cassava-house.com Distance from airport/mins. 15 Rates: Summer/Winter • Rates on Request Rooms: 3 | Page No.: 109

L: Lower Bay, Bequia T: 784 458-3484 / 3412 / 784 494-3688 (Cell) F: 784 457-3103 E: dereef@vincysurf.com Distance from airport/mins. 15 Rates: Summer • US$90 Winter • US$120 | Rooms: 6 | Page No.: 104

L: Lower Bay, Bequia W: www.dragonflyvilla.co.uk T: UK 00 44 7836 256750 / SVG (784) 527-9188 E: contactus@cassava-house.com Distance from airport/mins. 15 Rates: Summer/Winter • Rates on Request Rooms: 3 | Page No.: 109

Firefly Plantation Hotel

Frangipani Hotel

Ginger Lily Villa

L: Spring, Bequia | Rooms: 4 (+ 2 Bedroom Cottage) W: www.fireflybequia.com T: 784 488-8414 | F: 784 457-3305 E: info@fireflybequia.com Distance from airport/mins. 30 Rates: Summer • US$395 Winter • US$495 | Page No.: 105

L: Belmont, Admiralty Bay, Bequia | Rooms: 10 W: www.frangipanibequia.com T: 784 458-3255 | F: 784 458-3824 E: reservations@frangipanibequia.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer • US$65 - $220 Winter • US$85 - $275 | Page No.: 105

L: Baie De Sucre, Bequia T: 784 457-3739 / 3888 E: info@bluelagoonsvg.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer/Winter • Rates on Request Rooms: 5 | Page No.: 110

Gingerbread Hotel

Grenadine Island Villas

Island Inn Apartments

L: Belmont, Admiralty Bay, Bequia W: www.gingerbreadhotel.com T: 784 458-3800 E: ginger@vincysurf.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer • US$100 Winter • US$230 | Rooms: 10 | Page No.: 105

For villa rentals throughout St. Vincent & The Grenadines W: www.grenadinevillas.com T: 784 529-8046 / 457-3739 E: grenadinevillas@mac.com Rates: Refer to Website | Page No.: 110

L: Friendship Bay, Bequia W: www.islandinnsvg.com T: 784 457-3433 | F: 784 457-3431 E: islandinn@vincysurf.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer • US$85 Winter • US$95 | Rooms: 6

Keegan’s Beachside

Kingsville Apartments

Lime House Villas

L: Lower Bay, Bequia | Rooms: 16 W: www.keegansbequia.org T: 784 458-3530 / 530-4959 E: keegansbequia@yahoo.com Distance from airport/mins. 15 Rates: Summer • US$50 - $120 Winter • US$96 - $100 | Page No.: 104

L: Lower Bay, Bequia W: www.kingsville-apartments.net T: 784 458-3932 | F: 784 458-3000 E: kingsville@karibcable.com Distance from airport/mins. 15 Rates: Summer • US$85 Winter • US$110 | Rooms: 8

L: Spring Plantation, Bequia W: www.bequiavillas.net T: 784 457-3092 | F: 784 457-3092 E: limehouse@bequiavilla.com Distance from airport/mins. 20 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website Rooms: 4 | Page No.: 108

While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information in this accommodation guide, some information is subject to change without notice. Unless stated otherwise, prices shown are daily rates, double occupancy, quoted in US dollars and subject to local taxes and service charge.

148

Accommodation GUide - St. Vincent & Bequia


Ocean Breeze House

Ravenala House

L: Crown Point, Bequia W: lookyonderbequia.com T: 784 457-3362 / 528-9855 / 532-4553 E: info@lookyonderbequia.com Distance from airport/mins. 20 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website Rooms: 4 | Page No.: 110

L: Spring, Bequia W: www.bequiaholiday.com T: 784 457-3092 | F: 784 457-3092 E: limehouse@bequiavilla.com Distance from airport/mins. 20 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website Rooms: 3 | Page No.: 108

L: Lower Bay, Bequia W: www.ravenala-bequia.com T: 784 531-4142 / 784 570-1946 E: enquiries@ravenalabequia.com Distance from airport/mins. 15 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website Rooms: 4 | Page No.: 109

Sea Shells Apartments

Spring House Bequia

Sugar Reef Bequia

L: Belmont, Bequia W: www.seashellsbequia.com T: 784 458-3656 | F: 784 458-3656 E: seashellsbq@hotmail.com Distance from airport/mins. 15 Rates: Summer • US$79 Winter • US$105 | Rooms: 4

L: Spring Estate, Bequia W: www.springhousebequia.com T: 784 457-3707 / UK: (+44) 2035-140-002 / USA: 800 324-9530 E: info@springhousebequia.com Distance from airport/mins. 20 | Rooms: 10 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website

L: Crescent Beach, Bequia W: www.sugarreefbequia.com T: (784) 458-3400 E: info@sugarreefbequia.com Distance from airport/mins. 20 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website Rooms: 8 | Page No.: 105

Sugarapple Inn

Sweet Bequia Homes

The Nest & Treetop

L: Friendship Bay, Bequia W: www.sugarappleinn.com T: 784 457-3148 | F: 784 458-3985 E: info@sugarappleinn.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer • US$96 - $150 Winter • US$132 - $200 | Rooms: 8

Tranquility & Burke House L: Moonhole, Bequia Plumrose L: Port Elizabeth, Bequia W: www.sweetbequiahomes.com T: USA (276) 415-2753 | F: 784 530-4363 E: info@sweetbequiahomes.com Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website Rooms: 8 | Page No.: 108

L: Belmont, Bequia | Rooms: 2 W: www.thenestbequia.com T: 784 458-3667 E: treehouse@vincysurf.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer • US$100 Winter • US$155 | Page No.: 108

The Village Apartments

Tropical Hideaway

Villa Barbara

L: Belmont, Bequia W: http://villageapartments.bequia.net T: 784 458-3885/457-3026 | F: 784 458-3883 E: tvabqsvg@vincysurf.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$70 Rooms: 7

L: Bequia Estate, Bequia | Rooms: 6 W: www.tropicalhideawaybequia.com T: 784 532-1690 / 458-3676 E: info@tropicalhideawaybequia.com Distance from airport/mins. 20 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website Page No.: 109

L: Ocha, Bequia W: www.villabarbarabequia.com T: 784 593-5703 / 493-7333 E: villabarbarabequia@hotmail.com Distance from airport/mins. 30 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website | Rooms: 3

BEQUIA

Look Yonder Cottages

Some hotels have peak periods within the Winter Season when rates may vary. A number of the hotels offer specials during the Summer Season - these rates are available on request. Please check with the individual property or the SVG Hotel & Tourism Association. Tel: (784) 458-4379, or visit their website at www.svghotels.com, for up-to-date information.

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149


MUSTIQUE/MAYREAU

CANOUAN PALM ISLAND, PETIT ST. VINCENT, UNION ISLAND

Cotton House

Firefly Hotel

Starfish Haven

L: Mustique W: www.cottonhouse.net T: 784 456-4777 | F: 784 456-5887 E: reservations@cottonhouse.net Distance from airport/mins. 3 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website Rooms: 17 | Page No.: 114/115

L: Mustique W: www.fireflymustique.com T: 784 488-8414 | F: 784 488-8514 E: info@fireflymustique.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$895 - $1,500 Rooms: 5

L: Mayreau W: facebook.com/StarfishHavenMayreau E: starfishhavenmayreau@gmail.com Rates: Summer/Winter • US$125 - $200 Rooms: 3 | Page No.: 122

Tamarind Beach Hotel & Yacht Club

Jim Hill Apartments

Canouan Resort

L: Canouan | W: www.tamarindbeachhotel.com T: 784 458-8044 | F: 784 458-8851 E: info@tamarind.us / reservations@tamarind.us Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer • US$265 | Winter • US$295 Rooms: 40 | Page No.: 118

L: Retreat Village, Canouan T: 784 482-0679 E: canouanfoodsltd@gmail.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rooms: 2 | Page No.: 119

L: Canouan W: www.canouan.com T: 784 458-8000 | F: 784 458-8885 E: reservations@canouan.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website Rooms: 30

Anchorage Yacht Club

Bougainvilla Hotel

Clifton Beach Hotel

L: Clifton, Union Island W: www.anchorage-union.com T: 784 458-8221 | E: info@anchorage-union.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer/Winter • Refer to Website Rooms: 10 Page No.: 128/129

L: Clifton Harbour, Union Island W: www.grenadines-bougainvilla.com T: 784 458-8678 / 8878 E: laquarium8678@gmail.com Distance from airport/mins. 4 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$90 - $132 Rooms: 12 | Page No.: 132/139

L: Clifton, Union Island | Rooms: 12 T: 784 458-8235 | W: www.cliftonbeachhotelsvg.com www.facebook.com/CLIFTONBEACHHOTELSVG E: cliftonbeachhotel@gmail.com abigail.hazell@cliftonbeachhotelsvg.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer • US$70 - $90 Winter • US$80 - $100

Lambi’s Guest House

The Islander’s Inn

Palm Island Resort

L: Clifton, Union Island W: http://lambisunion.weebly.com/guest-house.html T: 784 458-8549 Distance from airport/mins. 3 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$40 Rooms: 25 | Page No.: 138

L: Big Sand, Union Island W: www.theislandersinn.com T: 784 527-0944 | E: theislandersinn@gmail.com Distance from airport/mins. 5 Rates: Summer/Winter • US$80 - $130 Rooms: 8

L: Palm Island | Rooms: 41 W: www.palmislandresortgrenadines.com T: 784 458-8824 | F: 784 458-8804 E: frontdesk@palmislandsvg.com Distance from airport/mins. 10 Rates: Summer • US$845 - $1,405 Winter • US$960 - $1,535 | Page No.: 142

Petit St. Vincent Resort L: Petit St. Vincent | Rooms: 22 | Page No.: 144 W: www.petitstvincent.com T: 1 800 654-9326 / 954 963-7401 | F: 954 963-7402 E: info@petitstvincent.com Distance from airport/mins. 25 Rates: Summer • US$1,100 Winter • US$1,400 - $1,700

While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information in this accommodation guide, some information is subject to change without notice. Unless stated otherwise, prices shown are daily rates, double occupancy, quoted in US dollars and subject to local taxes and service charge.

150

Accommodation GUide


Air-conditioning

Property on the Beach

No. of Restaurants on Property No. of Bars on Property

IN-ROOM AMENITIES

Conference/Meeting Rooms

Television Kitchen Facilities/Kitchenette in all or some rooms Coffee/Tea Making Facilities Private Balcony/Patio

Wheelchair Accessible

Room Service

Pool Free Wi-Fi/Wired Internet in Rooms or Public Areas

EXTRAS

HOTEL FACILITIES

Property Near the Beach

Facebook - Find this Hotel on Facebook Watersports

ST. VINCENT & THE GRENADINES HOTEL & TOURISM ASSOCIATION ALLIED MEMBERS Member Category

Member Name

Airlines/Charters

LIAT 784 458-4841 SVG Air 784 457-5124 LOG Enterprises Ltd. 784 456-2936 St. Vincent Brewery 784 457-2800 SVG Solidarity in Action Inc. 784 456-4762 Dive Bequia 784 458-3504 Dive St. Vincent 784 457-4948 Grenadines Dive 784 458-8138 Indigo Dive 784 493-9494 Serenity Dive 784 528-8030 Facey Trading 784 457-5047 Courts (St. Vincent) Ltd. 784 456-1325 SVG Ministry of Tourism 784 457-1502 Health Solutions Inc. 784 451-2836 Sailorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wilderness Tours 784 457-1712 Gonsalves Liquors 784 457-1881 Fantasea Tours 784 457-4477 Sea Breeze Nature Tours 784 458-4969 Heritage Museum & Science Centre 784 593-3763 Mustique Company 784 488-8000 SVG Tourism Authority 784 456-6222 A.I. Real Estate 784 457-2087 All Islands Recycling 784 453-4150 Jamaica Bickles 784 451-2029 Flow Wine Bar/Flowt Beach Bar 784 457-0809 Vee Jayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Restaurant 784 457-2845 St. Vincent Distillers Ltd. 784 458-6221 C.K. Greaves 784 457-1074 SVG Taxi Drivers Association 784 526-2586 LIME (Cable & Wireless) 784 457-1901 Coreas Caribbean Adventures 784 456-2158 Chic Concepts 784 496-2442 Going Places Travel 784 457-1841 A Caribbean Wedding 784 528-7444/457-3209 Trends Events Management Serv. 784 533-2525 Exquisite EventSVG 784 494-8100 Barefoot Yacht Charters Ltd. 784 456-9526 Sail St. Vincent and The Grenadines 784 533-2909 Tradewinds Yacht Club 784 457-3361

Beverage and Distributor Beverage Manufacturer/Distributor Car Park & Event Rental Venue Dive Shops/Operators

Distribution Furniture/Appliance Store Government Ministry Hemodialysis Clinic Land Tours/Operator Liquor Stores/Distributor Marine Tours Museum Mustique Island Management Company Parastatal Authority Real Estate Agent Recycling Agency Restaurants & Bars/Wine Bar Rum Distillery Supermarket (Wholesale/Retail) Taxi/Transport Services Telecom Tour Operators/Cruise Agents Travel Agent Wedding and Event Planners Yacht Charters/Sailing

Tel:

Website www.liatairline.com www.svgair.com www.hairounbeer.com svgsolidaritycarparks@vincysurf.com www.divebequia.com www.divestvincent.com www.grenadinesdive.com www.indigodive.com serenitydive@hotmail.com atoney@faceycommodity.com www.facebook.com/courtssvg www.tourism.gov.vc healthsolutionssvg@gmail.com www.sailorswildernesstours.com www.gonsalvesliquors.com www.fantaseatours.com www.seabreezenaturetours.com lystraculzac_wilson@hotmail.com www.mustique-island.com www.discoversvg.com donp@vincysurf.com allislandsrecycling@gmail.com vbrowne@kpgroupsvg.com www.flowwinebar.com veejaysrestaurant@gmail.com www.sunsetrum.com www.ckgreaves.com bigpops54@hotmail.com www.lime.com www.coreastours.com ladymarksman@hotmail.com www.going-places.tv www.acaribbeanwedding.com trendsevents.svg@gmail.com www.exquisitesvg.com www.barefootyachts.com www.sailgrenadines.com stvincent@trade-winds.com

Some hotels have peak periods within the Winter Season when rates may vary. A number of the hotels offer specials during the Summer Season - these rates are available on request. Please check with the individual property or the SVG Hotel & Tourism Association. Tel: (784) 458-4379, or visit their website at www.svghotels.com, for up-to-date information.

Ins & Outs of St. Vincent & the Grenadines

151


A A Caribbean Wedding Anchorage Yacht Club

87 128, 129

B Backyard Adventures 45 Bagatelle Restaurant 96 Barefoot Suites 64 Barefoot Yacht Charters 29, 30 Barracuda Restaurant & Bar 139 Basil’s Bar & Restaurant 58, 115 Basil’s Shops in Mustique 115 Beachcombers Hotel 5, 62 Beachcombers Restaurant 56 Bequia Beach Hotel 3, 104 Bequia Dive Adventures 84 Bequia Photography By Wilfred Dederer 87 Bequia Plantation Hotel 111 Birding & Nature Tours 44 Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina 69 Bob’s Place 110 Bougainvilla Hotel 132, 139 Buon Appetito 118

C Café Soleil Back Cover, 59 Captain Gourmet 135 Caribbean Lifestyles 52 Caribbean Wedding Photography by Edson Reece 87 C.K. Greaves & Co. Ltd. Supermarkets 52 Canouan Foods 119 Carr, Peter - Paintings of Bequia 93 Cassava House 109 Chameleon Café & Clothing 96 Claude Victorine’s Art Studio 92 Cotton House, The 114, 115

D Dawn’s Café 100 De Reef Beach Bar & Restaurant 100 De Reef Apartments 104 Digicel Inside Front Cover Doris Fresh Food 90 Dragonfly Villa 109 Duncan, Silma 93

F Fantasea Tours Firefly Plantation Hotel Firefly Plantation Restaurant Firefly Plantation Tours Frangipani Hotel, The Frangipani Restaurant French Verandah Restaurant Friendship Rose, The

45 105 101 85 105 101 56 85

G

O

Gingerbread Hotel 105 Gingerbread Restaurant 101 Ginger Lily Villa 110 Gold Doubloon, The 50, 51 Gotta-Go 119 Grand Ma-N-Pa Supermarket 135 Grand View Beach Hotel 64, 65 Grand View Grill 58 Grenadine House 68 Grenadine Island Villas 110 Grenadines Dive 127 Grenadines Schooner Cruises 85 Grenadine Weddings 87

Oasis Art Gallery, The Ocean Breeze House

H Happy Kite 127 Heritage Museum & Science Centre 44 Hillside Apartments 66 Hotel Alexandrina 66, 67

I Island Adventure Tours

135

J JT Pro Beach Bar 138 JT Pro Center Kitesurfing School 130, 131 Jack’s Bar 98 Jim Hill Apartments 119 Jude’s Boat Taxi 138 Jump In Taxi & Jeep Rentals 84

K Keegan’s Beachside

100, 104

L Lambi’s Guest House Lambi’s Restaurant Lambi’s Supermarket La Plage L’Aquarium Restaurant & Bar L’Auberge des Grenadines Lea, Julie Savage Lime House Villas Look Yonder Cottages Lucy, L.D. Luxury Yacht Mini Cruises

138 138 138 100 139 96, 97 93 108 110 93 85

M Mangrove Beach Bar & Restaurant 119 Mariners Hotel 62, 63 McAllister Designs 52, 53

Nest & Treetop, The

152  Advertisers Index

P Palm Island Resort Palm Villa Papa’s Bar & Bistro Paradise Beach Hotel & Spa Paradise Restaurant & Spa Petit St. Vincent Resort

108

142 143 99 64, 65 59 144

R Ravenala House Richview Guest House Rosewood Apartment Hotel

109 66 66

S SVG Hotel & Tourism Assoc. 1 Sail Grenadines 31, 84, 127 Sail Relax Explore 30 St. Vincent Distillers Ltd. 50, 51 St. Vincent Shipyard Ltd. 29, 30 Sam’s Taxi Tours Ltd. 44 Sapodilla Room 58 Scaramouche 44, 127 Seasplash Apartments 64 Silent Wings Yacht Holidays 31, 85 Snack Shack, The 138 Sparrow’s Beach Club & Restaurant 137 Starfish Haven 122 Subway 57 Sugar Reef Bequia 105 Sugar Reef Café 101 Sunset Shores Beach Hotel 66, 67 Sunset Shores Restaurant 56, 57 Sunset Tours Moke Rentals 84 Sweet Bequia Homes 108

T Tamarind Beach Hotel & Yacht Club 118 Tropical Hideaway 109

V VIP Pix Photography

53

W White Sands Cottages 62 Wilkie’s 58 Wind and Sea 30, 85, 115, 133

Y Youlou Arts Foundation Young Island

N

92 108

53 56, 62, 63


St. Vincent & the Grenadines Tourism Offices St. Vincent Ministry of Tourism, Sports & Culture P.O. Box 834, 2nd Fl., NIS Building, Upper Bay Street, Kingstown, St. Vincent & The Grenadines Tel: 784-457-1502 | Fax: 784-451-2425 e-mail: tourism@vincysurf.com www.facebook.com/our.tourism www.discoversvg.com St. Vincent & The Grenadines Tourism Authority (SVGTA) P.O. Box 834, 2nd Floor, NIS Building, Upper Bay Street, Kingstown St. Vincent & The Grenadines Tel: 784-456-6222 | Fax: 784-485-6020 e-mail: svgta@discoversvg.com www.discoversvg.com Note: Opening hours for the office of the SVGTA is Monday to Friday 8am to 4pm AST The SVGTA also has Information Desks at the following locations: Tourist Information Desk E.T. Joshua Airport, Arnos Vale Tel: 784-458-4685 Tourist Information Desk Cruise Ship Terminal, Kingstown Tel: 784-457-1592 St. Vincent & The Grenadines Hotel & Tourism Association (SVGHTA) Villa, P.O. Box 2125, St. Vincent & The Grenadines Tel: 784-458-4379 | Fax: 784-456-4456  e-mail: svghotels@vincysurf.com www.svghotels.com

Barbados St. Vincent & The Grenadines Information Desk Grantley Adams International Airport, Christ Church, Barbados Tel: 246-428-0961 | 246-233-6814 (after 1pm)

Canada 55 Town Centre Court Suite 403, Toronto, Ontario, M1P 4X4, Canada Toll free: 866-421-4452 Tel: 416-630-9292 | Fax: 416-630-9291 e-mail: svgtourismtoronto@rogers.com

United States 801 Second Avenue, 21st Floor New York, NY 10017 Toll free: 800-729-1726 Tel: 212-687-4981 | Fax: 212-949-5946 e-mail: svgtony@aol.com

United Kingdom 10 Kensington Court London, W8 5DL England Tel: 207-937-6570 | Fax: 207-937-3611 e-mail: svgtourismeurope@aol.com



Ins & Outs of SVG 2016 Edition