exported for use in black paint and was later used as fuel for trains. Mining ceased in the 1920s. With the land so fertile, you might wonder why this plantation isn’t more productive. For one thing, it gets discouraging when monkeys steal the fruits of your labour. But that’s another story...and a good rumshop conversation starter. On leaving Springvale, turn left and carry on down the hill through Bruce Vale. Fifty years ago, this was all under sugar cultivation. Now the tropical rainforest, harbouring rich bird life, is regaining a hold on the land, dotted with stands of bamboo, and traversed with streams that turn into raging rivers during heavy rains. At the bottom you will come to a road on the right heading uphill, signposted Chalky Mount. Another aspect of life on the land awaits you here —potteries where local clay is transformed into useful items in the traditional manner. Again, monkeys will appear, but this time it’s the other kind— the strangely named jugs that keep water cool (well, slightly) in a natural way. Perched along the crest of clay hills, Chalky Mount Village has been home to Barbados’ pottery industry for over 350 years. When you come to the brightly painted Chalky Mount Rum Shop, turn left and then take either fork where several small owner-run potteries still operate. At Chalky Mount pottery, the dignified and adept John Springer will let you have a go at the wheel if you like. Moving on, come out from pottery row, turn right at the rum shop, and continue down on the same road that brought you here. Turn right at the T-junction. This road leads through Haggatts, where government fruit orchards border the Soil Conservation Unit. Among the trees is a variety of cherry that is exceptionally high in vitamin C. A single one can provide a day’s requirement! Soon after the gas station is Belleplaine and the junction with the Ermy Bourne Highway, where you turn right. Boys on the roadside around here sell local fruit and coconut bread. Ackees, sea grapes, dunks or fat porks—try some! The nearby Sand Dunes Bar and Restaurant is a popular spot that serves great fish cutters. Also known as the East Coast Road, this stretch leads through windswept, flatland communities and then past Top > Turmeric at Springvale Eco-Heritage Museum and Trail Photo: Sally Miller
Middle > John Springer and his mother Photo: Andrew Hulsmeier Bottom > Tide Pools at Bathsheba Photo: Andrew Hulsmeier Opposite > Long Pond and Morgan Lewis beach from Chalky Mount Photo: Sally Miller
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