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Acne Studios

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milla banti student id: 20021445 bcs fashion management marketing management name of tutor: ayshen ali word count: 2236

“ I, milla banti, certifiy that this is an original piece of work. I have acknowledged allsources and citations. No section of this report has been plagiarised. ”

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

This report is based on an analysis of Acne Studios. After a study of the market sector, I will be covering the brand’s current marketing mix and positioning. Furthermore, I will be proposing a curated communication plan to increase brand awareness. Visuals will help the reader to further immerse into Acne Studios’ created universe.

table of content I. INTRODUCTION II. a. b. b.

MARKET SECTOR current market analysis (p. 18-19) pestel and swot explanation (P.24-25) key marketing trends (P. 26-29)

III. MARKETING MIXAND POSITIONING a. introduction to the brand (p.32-41) b. unique selling point (p.42-43) c. current financial performance (p44-47) d. target customer profile (p.48-49) e. competitors(p.50-51) f. place (p.54-55) g. product (p.58-61) h. price (P.62-65) j. promotion (p.66-67) IV. PROPOSED COMMUNICATION PLAN a. proposed product rationale (p.70-73) b advertising (p. 74-75) c. digital marketing (p. 76-77) d. direct marketing (p.78-79) e. affiliate marketing (p80-81) f. PR activities (p82-83) g. marketing plan (84-87) -budget and calendar -effectiveness V. CONCLUSION (P.88-89) VI. APPENDICES a. swot and pestel analysis(p.92-99) b. acne studios name (100) d. competitor analysis (102-103) c. face motif logo (101) e. store analysis(104-105) VIII. REFERENCE LIST (110-117)

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f. survey reponse (106-109)

introduction

14 14

The research was meticulously conducted after gaining insightful marketing knowledge, tools and theories that would facilitate my work. Despite Covid-19 being a limitation for my research, I was not able to physically interview people, nor visit competitors’ boutiques. However, I was still able to utilize some primary sources. My survey was conducted, questioning a 100 people on their knowledge of the brand, and their potential consumer consumption shift. Furthermore, an in-store visit of the Acne Studios flagship store in Paris was possible. Furthermore, newspapers, databases, sector-orientated magazines, photographs, press releases and online books were used to complete my analysis. Having contacted the brand, I was able to get a press access which enabled me to obtain some photographs and press release that other than professionals would not obtain. Annual reports allowed me to analyze the brand’s financial performance and finally other business-related databases such as Mintel were helpful to understand the new consumer consumption shift. Bringing back an old concept of Acne Studios, my proposed marketing campaign aims at increasing brand awareness, attracting and strengthening the loyalty of its current customers and further differentiate the brand from its competitors through its unique branding strategies. By nourishing the brand’s culture and history, the aim is to make the clientele feel part of Acne Studios’ journey. Furthermore, a potential gap has been highlighted in the market as a new trend of ‘inclusive exclusivity’makes the luxury world available for more people : People consume less and are willing to know more. With Acne Studios not being a fan of overly commercial marketing, and instead preferring translating honest values and being a modern fashion house, it seemed impossible to propose an over-the-top marketing campaign.

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current market analysis

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Another explanation for this great economic loss is the inability for international clients to travel. Chinese customers purchasing goods outside their home countries represents 30% of the industries total revenue (McKinsey, 2020). However, despite an expected loss of 10 billion euros for luxury brands (Annachiara Biondi2020), the luxury apparel and footwear industry could be reaching 107,969 million US$ in 2021, representing an annual growth of 4,8% (Statista, 2020). In this saturated and competitive market reigns a situation of oligopoly where an elite number of companies dominate and predict the future trends for the industry. Slowly taken over by value chains and high-street brands, luxury brands’ creative integrity and designs are copied. These affordable clothes at interestingly low prices attract a wide audience. These brands creativity is being jeopardized by high-street value chains. A similar design and garment can be bought at a much more affordable price. Unable to efficiently produce collections caused by the shutdown of Italian textile and leather manufactories (McKinsey, 2020) some companies will have to find a new way to retain the current loyal customers with strong digitization enhancements, effective communications and a practical e-commerce site.

top 10 most valuable br

ands worldwide in 2020

in millions of us dollars (2020, Statista)

acne studios shearling jacket black/dark grey 2100 pounds

zara double-faced biker jacket 99.99 pounds

pestel and swot

24 *see appendice (p.

To quickly adapt to the evolving demand, a brand must have complete understanding of the internal and external environments it is growing in. A SWOT and a PESTEL analysis could help Acne Studios avoid risks that are threatening the company and thus, help them make the best strategic choices for its organic growth. It will also allow the brand to avoid external factors that could be a threat to the brand, work on what’s stopping the brand from thriving, be aware of its current performance, and discover areas they could develop on. Let us remember here that there are some limitations to these analysis as the macro and macro business environment are under constant change especially during this period of pandemic.

key marketing trends

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The fashion industry is perpetually invaded by cyclical, ephemeral trends that dictate what will and won’t be in style. Whilst some would rather buy minimalist pieces that are timeless other like to surf on the wave trend. According to BoF 2020, the luxury sector ‘will primarily be shaped by the acceleration of existing trends along four main vectors: China, consolidation, channels and conscience’. (Erwan Rambourg,2020) An increasing number of luxury brands are looking into switching online by implementing themselves onto retail platforms like Farfetch or Ssense and have most of their sales coming from e-commerce. Flagship stores would thus only be physical entities to add value to the brand identity, image and history. Still, this is a highly debatable trend as many experts believe that this is only a temporary adaptation to a situation of crisis: ‘luxury demand and social distancing are virtually incompatible’ (Erwan Rambourg, 2020).

‘inclusive exclusivity’

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marketing marketing mix mix and and positioning positioning

mission statement With a multidisciplinary approach merging art, architecture, photography and contemporary culture with fashion, Acne Studios creates an alternative path, a sensorial awakening through its art pieces. Effortlessly chic, clean and contemporary garments that shows the symbolic value of individuality through a story that breathes honesty and subtility.

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(Grailed,2018)

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“Denim is how Acne Studios started, and it still fascinates me,” (Lofficielusa.com, 2019) Acne Studios is a Swedish based fashion brand founded in 1996, part of a creative collective ‘ACNE’ combining art, photography, film, design and advertising all under one roof. Strongly inspired by Andy Warhol’s factory, Johnny Johansson, the creative director and co-founder of the company, focuses on combining art and industry. Acronym for ‘ambition to create novel expressions’, Acne Studios’ swift success is explained by the flourishing environment it has been created among young aspiring people working in symbiose to make their passions a business. ACNE’s debut in fashion was on the spur of the moment when Jonny Johansson created a capsule of 100 pair of red-stitched jeans to give to his friends, family and ‘cool kids’ in Stockholm. From the beginning, Jonny Johansson’s preoccupation was the meet with the current demand of customers: “Okay, what’s the most important garment for people in the world today?’ because we wanted to be really current. So that’s why we started with jeans…’ (Jonny Johansson | #BoF500 | The Business of Fashion, 2019) This bold move of putting people into straight jeans when everybody still was wearing bootcuts was greatly acclaimed by the media.

“Soon editorials from Wallpaper and French Vogue turned up. We were not prepared at all” (Yaeger, 2013). Successively, Acne Studios opened its first store in 2003 located in Stockholm, launches a bi-annual magazine in 2005 named Acne Paper and became a standalone company in 2006, separating itself from Acne Digital, Acne Paper, Acne Advertising, and Acne Film (Wall street journal 2013). The brand now offers a wide range of clothing, from menswear and women’s ready-towear, footwear, accessories and denim (AcneStudios,2020), precursor of the ‘minimalist maximalism’ in fashion.

core values Acne Studios aims to propose high-quality, durable clothes that prone individuality. With an aspiration to be a modern contemporary luxury brand ‘four our time’, the brand stays clear of traditional advertising as it prefers to tell honest stories that will inspire anyone and everyone. 36 36

CREATIVE DIRECTOR JONNY JOHANSSON age: 50 years old gender: man nationality: swedish I don’t like the celebrity aspect of fashion. I have no desire to be a celebrity myself and to have to play a little part.” (the guardian, 2018) CEO Mattias Magnusson Age: unknown gender: man nationality: swedish

JEANS PERSONIFICATION first jeans: 1996 gender: non-binary nationality: swedish

ACNE PAPER FIRST EDITION date : 2005 gender : non-binary nationality : swedish

acne paper

brand identity prism (JN Kapferer Model,1986)

picture of s physique Iconic millennial pink packaging Modern simplistic font Memorable intricate name Aesthetic/artsy Recognizable Muted colors Universal emoji logo

externalization

relationship

Quality Originality Uniqueness Gratification Loyalty Surprise

reflection

High income Independent Inclusive exclusivity Creative, into arts

seeking to be different Nonchalant

picture of r

sender

Honest, Contemporary Artistic, Minimalist Different

culture

Individuality Durability Luxury Scandinavian Effortlessly cool

internalization

receiver

personality

self-image

Confident Fashionable Edgy chic Simple minimalist Stands out

unique selling selling point point unique

*the following established unique selling point is based on the research made

‘Creating luxurious quality clothes for people seeking individuality in a world of conformity. Ideologies of an art collective expressed within garments.’

haute

couture

ready-to-wear designer

acne studios

high-street fashion

value retailers

brand brand signature signature High quality modern clothes, that can be dressed up or down and wearable for any occasions. For the branding, their millennial pink packaging and logo is infamous

current financial performance (Annua lR ep

or t,2 0

over 800 employees, 200 based in the headquarters of Stockholm

Studios Sustai na ne

bi li

ep R

8 offices in total in Scandinavia, Italy, Paris, New York and Shanghai

a yearly turnover of 2.56 billion SEK (Acne Studios Sustainability Report, 2019)

equals to 22 2583 pounds

9) 01 t,2 or

730 employees in 2019 where 414 were women

ainability R epo S u st rt, 2

(

e cn

s dio

62 suppliers producing in more than 200 production locations in 16 countries. The company is in charge of the design, distribution and marketing of clothing via subsidiaries. (A n

nual Report,20

)

Sum of equity: 830 647 Profit ratio of 11.97% Net probability 8.36 KSEK Operating margin 15.43%

‘I think being in control is so important to us,” says Jonny Johansson (Morency,2018)

The brand is open to increasing their shares, but it’s important for them to remain in control

competitive advantage

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customer profile

competitors competitors positioning positioning map map “the way the product is defined by customers on important attributes, the place the product occupies in consumers’ minds relative to competing products” (Kotler et al,2008)

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high price gucci burberry

céline

loewe

JW Anderson acne studios

the kooples maje

mass market

jil sander maison margiela

APC

COS

luxury market

weekday

zara

monki

h&m low price

place

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products

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Acne Studios takes great pride in the products they put out. Famous for their 5 pocket raw denim jeans, they now have a wide range of styles with different cuts, lengths and fits. The Bla Konst collection, ‘blue art’ in English, consists of unisex jeans. This is an attempt from the creative director to go back to the core of Acne Studios DNA and honor denim. The brand’s first jeans style dating from 1996 are re-surfaced in this collection. strindberg collection The Women’s Spring / Summer 2020 collection was a tribute to August Strindberg, a famous swedish writer, playwright and painter. “I love August Strindberg’s paintings of nature. It’s like nature was the answer for him. When you use them as prints, they become abstract.’ (Acne press Release, 2020). Printed Organza shirts, oversized blazers, and linen dressed from the collection are an ode to some of August Strindberg’s paintings: “Underlandet” (Wonderland), “Svartsjukans natt” (The Night of Jealousy) and “Den ensamma giftsvampen” (The Solitary Toadstool). Jonny Johansson’s sensitivity for art is translated into many other collections. For example, the resort 2016 collection is entirely influenced by cubism. By producing fashion-forward garments, the brand continuously invites customers to consider fashion as an art. Acne Studios distils the Scandinavian style and mindset. The creative director is versatile and can also deliver simpler collections, offer timeless pieces that he knows will please his customers. The quality and the branding are what often pushes his clientele to buy. His seemingly anonymous brand comes in contrast with his infamous ‘millennial pink’ packaging and bags. “Do I feel responsible for starting something like millennial pink? The truth is, a few years ago, I was working late and I had a food wrapper next to my computer in that colour. I liked it, so we made the bags in it.” (Morwenna ferrier, 2018). The branding of Acne Studios has in itself become a major selling point and an added value to the clothes: the pink shopping bags are resold on diverse platforms such eBay and Depop

new proposed product

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content - the brand’s growth/journey

- acne studios ideologies - the ‘it products’ from acne - lookbooks to show a garment’s versatility - ‘must see’ boutiques of acne once the pandemix is over - the brand’s archives -what inspired the creative director -minimalist maximalism

at at home home

AcnePaper 16th issue

price

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accessories

1300

120

490

bags

220

1400

shoes

340

tops

coat

680

340

entry price

1400

exit price

As for the communication budget for the new product, it is crucial that they curate one specifically for the campaign. Acne Studios could be looking to adopt a mix between a marginal analysis and arbitrary as well as an objective and task budget.

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reasons why -allows to know how many sales are generated from an extra unit of communication spent - allow them to know when not to spend more than the profit expenditures generate -’arbitrary’ makes it simple and allows the brand to have some control -the budget will be based on specific examinations of the specific objectives of the marketing plan - this will allow to monitor the campaign’s achievements against its tasks

promotion promotion “It is not that we don’t like being commercial. It’s great when you have commercial hits. But the thing is, you want to do it with integrity.” (Mikael schiller BOF, 2013)

For the launch of this new product, Acne Studios will remain authentic to its current marketing strategy with some slight modifications. The two distribution approaches the brand will be adopting are the following: selling directly to consumers and selling through retailers.

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proposed product rationale

it is crucial to determine ‘the needs and wants of target markets and delivering the desired satisfactions more effectively and efficiently than competitors do’. (Philip Kotler) The product launching will be the 16th issue of Acne Paper, an award-winning magazine in design and art direction. After seven years have passed since its last issue in 2014, Acne Studios will be bringing back this emblematic piece which was and is a core symbol of the brand’s identity. In itself this magazine is a form of publicity and it engages with the consumers, makes them feel part of the brands journey through storytelling and allows them to connect with the brand at a time where the pandemic and its induced lockdowns have weakened social bonds, and feelings of belonging or identity.

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OBJECTIVES - retain the current loyal customers - attract media attention - incite interest for the brand - optional: added profit, increase in sales

In a time of crisis with an ongoing pandemic, Acne Studios who advocate themselves as an honest, modern luxury brand would never be putting out a new collection. From an ethical standpoint, it wouldn’t seem reasonable to encourage clothing consumption. Instead, the objective is to make consumers gain more interest in the brand, fashion and art in general.

As well as being a piece of decoration in one’s home, (responding to the rise in interest for home decoration), the 16th issue of Acne Paper would trigger an emotional response through the created nostalgia. By promoting their past collections, consumers who are willing to buy from the company will go ahead and buy garments that have already been put out. This avoids waste and assures that the stocks are emptied. The magazine will be available to order online, from Acne Studios’ website only, as well as physically, in concept stores. These boutiques will also be digitally promoting the magazine on their respective social media. By purchasing the product, the customer automatically enters a competition to win a place for the next physical fashion show Acne Studios. A scannable QR code on the back of the magazine will re-direct the customer to a link that announces the given result. This feature will be thoroughly marketed, as it is a strong asset and added value to the product.

ADVERTISING youtube video

street posters

product teaser

length: 30 seconds embark consumers on a journey whilst generating emotions and curiosity. a length that allows intricate and complex messages such as a new product launch that has been out of the spotlight for a long time. concept: similar to a trailer of a sequel movie. ‘comeback’ of an emblematic product long waited for. the creative director himself will be narrating. reach: high potential reach. estimated views of 100k based on other Acne Studios videos and customer base aesthetic: muted color and tones -this guarantees a long lifespan of the video -not costly -able to re-watch anytime, anywhere

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-street posters with striking aesthetic -> could entice pictures taking as it is visually pleasing and unconventional nowadays. location: areas next to the acne studio stores and concept stores. -> 2 areas in Stockholm, 2 areas in London, one area in Copenhagen and one area in Los Angeles. Will encourage consumers to head to the stores. “ACNE PAPER COMEBACK” printed on poster. added feature: scannable QR code that re-directs to the YouTube video previously mentioned. -those who know acne paper will be excited and those who don’t will most likely be intrigued.

“ACNE PAPER COMEBACK”

*you can actually scan the QR code with your phone

DIGITAL MARKETING social media strong social media presence is important since millennials, the targeted customer, spends most of their time on Instagram (Statista, 2019) a whole online campaign will be conducted for the launch of the product. generated content: Instagram posts for the 16th issue of Acne Paper before the launch of the product, information as to where it will be available ‘sneak peek’ of the content, people of the industry holding it and pictures of the book in a home. the concept stores such as APOC store, Nous, the broken Arm will also be producing content on Instagram concerning the product and of it available in their boutique. acne studios, the concept stores, people of the industry and influencers will be starting a hashtag, hoping to make it trend. Similar to Calvin Klein’s campaign ‘I #___ in my Calvin’s’. For the new issue of Acne Paper start the ‘I #____ with Acne Paper”.

i #learn with acne paper i #inspire with acne paper i #create with acne paper i #discover with acne paper i #fashion with acne paper i #laugh with acne paper 77

DIRECT MARKETING - press release for the product -email to consumers (see prototype) hyperlink when you immediately click on the visual image. gives access tho the acne studios website page, with the new product. simple short concise message. is included: address of stores that stock this magazine and their address based on where you live, current location.

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pre-orders for the 16th issue of AcnePaper

product will be available online and in-stores

-> exclusive access by login in to your account

AFFILIATE MARKETING blogger outreach @josefinehej and @frejawewer on instagram content: Instagram live. -> talk about lockdown, what has inspired them during the pandemic, friendly approach. ->how acne corresponds to them, interaction with their fans, talk about the magazine. -> offering a special code discount when purchasing

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@josefinehej 1.1 million followers

@frejawewer 252k followers

PR ACTIVITIES

-exclusive, limited gu

-location: in the new hea S

-concept: immerse the au th -> archives of the preced g -> free photobooth at the appear as if they are t

- generated content: wi themselves, sharing on so who will be there and image re

uest number for the event.

adquarters of acne studios in Sweden

udience deeper into the roots of he brand dent issues, free issue for the guests. event: printed pictures make it the cover of this 16th issue.

ill be coming from the guests ocial media and a photographer es that will be available for press eleases.

budget

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EFFECTIVENESS video

street posters

increase number of views

if the numbers of views for the YouTube channel video have increased

gained subscribers number of shares like to dislike ratio larger potential audience reach -> if increased success -> if trending, sucess all these statistics offered and available on YouTube for free

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increased website visits if noticeable media coverage -> news articles -> social media

digital

increased followers on acne studios instagram numbers of share number of likes number of comments under each post if increased visits on acne studios websites trending # or not

MEASUREMENT blogger outreach

number of purchases with @frejawewer and @josefinhej discount codes

event

emails

increased media coverage

increased acne studios website visits

articles and magazines

amount of pre-orders

guests sharing on social media

increase of online and in-store purchases

press release

conclusion

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The proposed marketing campaign is complex: by integrating and applicating all of these strategic tools, Acne Studios will be able to translate their core values and idelogies as an art collective into publicity. Other measures than an increase in sales or profit can track and ensure the campaign’s success. In a time of crisis, the proposed product is reflective to the consumer’s demand and aligns with the consumption shift.

appendice

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swot analysis strengths

Acne Studios is an emblematic brand that represents Scandinavian chic and a lifestyle that has become popular in fashion industry. Worldwide famous, it has established retail stores in most fashion capitals: London, Paris, New York, Milan but also Berlin, Copenhagen, Tokyo, LA, Stockholm, Shanghai Melbourne… Acne Studios does not have any borders, nor does it limit itself to Europe which increases their brand visibility. The brand is present in physical and online department stores such as MACIES, Le Printemps, Net à porter and Sensee.

Their identity is strong and recognizable : Famous for their millennial pink packaging, some are even resold online as an item itself. The color itself is connoted to the brand. Each and every store is unique yet complement the others. An honest approach to marketing and communication makes the brand personable, its story being believable and friendly. They advocate themselves as a luxury yet modern brand, ecoconscious by proposing upcycled collections and an overall ‘minimalist maximalist’ aesthetic. Customers who purchase an item from them feel part of an elite, a group of people who are ‘in the know’ as the brand isn’t as desacralized, democratized as others (Gucci for example). The success from its original communication and publicity, award-winning ACNE paper demonstrates that Acne studios does more than selling clothes: A whole universe is derived from the ACNE collective, a brand that inspires and is inspired by everything and anything.

opportunities

- Follow the trend and create temporary pop up stores (Hawkins and Hawkins, 2020), although currently of limited benefit in the short term due to lockdowns. - Expand market opportunity by inserting itself in the fashion virtual clothing revolution appearing in online gaming (e.g. animal crossing showcasing Balenciaga virtual items), an industry that is booming further since the pandemic. - potential app for easier and custom shopping experience with gamification. 92 - Further advertising on the website to attract potential 92 customers living in areas with limited to no store presence.

weaknesses The name was unappealing for many and mainly confusing at the brands début. ‘Acne’ the word that is commonly used for a skin disorder has now become a fashion brand’s name. Yet for many years Harrods wouldn’t want to sell Acne Studios products. Looking up the brand online might be complicated as well and lead to confusion. Its high price point on its wide range of products attracts high-income customers who might want exclusive products or services that Acne Studios does not propose haute-couture, customization or custom-made pieces. Don’t get the same ‘lavish’ feel when buying from them.

threats The minimalist style from Acne studios is easy to replicate for high street and value brands who might steal and replicate acne’s designs at cheaper prices. Covid 19 has had a huge impact for the brand: fewer opportunities for in-store visits have put a dent in the communication strategy in which acne studios flagship stores usually are a strong identity asset. These lost opportunities take away a part of the augmented product and buyer’s experience, so on-line only customers might be less likely to want to buy now. The consumer shift consumption is inherently different, defined by a willingness to buy less. Their lack of presence on newly popular social medias such as Tik Tok and Instagram leaves place for other young emerging creators such as Jacquemus or Marine Serre to ‘occupy the space’. Finally, the ‘scandinavian style’ Acne is known for, can be replicated through other Swedish brands such as Monki Weekday, and H&M High price for basics criticism, minimalist bliss seems like a scam for many. Could have more diversity and inclusivity in models. 93

pestel analysis political Whilst Acne Studios deliberately chooses not to make any political statement, unsurprisingly, its brand identity attributes connote to supporting rather democratic values such as inclusivity, same sex minorities couples in campaigns, and an overall fondness for art and the ideologies it holds. However, unlike its competitors, Acne Studios has no interest in dressing up important political figures, a statement that could be either detrimental: Chiara Boni dressing up Ivanka Trump (Chavie Lieber, 2020) or beneficial: a Michael Kors suit worn by Kamala Harris for the cover of Vogue (Okeowo, 2021). Geo-Political instability has been repeatedly menacing the industry for a number of years: “Terrorism, Brexit, and stalled trade deals will all increase a pervasive sense of uncertainty in the global economy” (McK-BOF, 2017 report) Tension and friction in some countries will remain a potential barrier for the brand’s success. China known for its stern regime has various social medias such as Facebook, Instagram and Tik-Tok blocked, (Wikipedia,2020) limiting the brand’s digital visibility. Hence its three stores in the capital, Beijing are the only possible direct reach/interaction with Chinese customers. Furthermore, the newly elected president Joe Biden encourages the propagation of nationalism ideologies by signing an executive order strengthening the ‘buy American’ provisions.

economical “The world economy will experience the worst recession since the great depression” (IMF, 2020) The successive lockdowns in big fashion capitals such as London, Paris and Milan where only essential shops could remain open, created a big revenue shortfall worldwide. The overall shift in consumer spending and behavior might not directly affect acne studios loyal customers. Indeed, their typical target profile is customers with high-income stability. Its competitors might observe a bigger impact and a larger drop in sales than for Acne Studios. Nevertheless, when planning ahead, the brand must consider the slower predicted growth of the fashion industry, dropping down to 3 to 4% percent (McKinsey report, 2020) The recent lower exchange rate where 1 euro is worth 1,22 dollars (google finance, 2020), due to generally lower interest rates, potentially attracts less foreign capital: , a criteria/ aspect/area Acne Studios usually optimist on where make a good sum of money. Overall, the current market saturation with big luxury brands in the lead, makes it challenging for Acne Studios to stand out from the crowd and reach maximum forecasted profit.

social Acne Studios is proud of its cultural identity, ecouraging individuality and creativity. These ideologies at the core of the ACNE art collective are meant to be translated through the clothes they produce. These attributes/criteria are highly valuable for their clients as well, who in response will tend to be loyal customers. The need to be eco-responsible, conscious and sustainable is crucial for modern brands as we observe an acute shift in consumer consumption requesting inclusivity as well. (Mintel, 2020) Acne Studios has willingly and truthfully met this demand by putting forward campaigns that have made socio-cultural statements: in the 2017 collection, the faces of the collection were a queer family consisting of a gay couple. Acne Studios has multiple ways of reaching a wider social audience, as the needs in fashion are constantly evolving. The industry has noticed a stronger appeal for loungewear, further increased with the recent lockdowns. Furthermore, strong social media presence is imperative with gen Z, the rise of income in china (IMF, 2020) and the expanding middle class in Nigeria or Brazil might lead to a gap in the sector, opportunities acne might want to seize. (state of fashion, 2020 MC Kinsey).

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technological Many different technological strategies can be adopted to ensure competitiveness and maximize a brands profit. Strong digital and media presence have become an increasing demand, putting pressure on companies to have efficient e-commerce selling platforms, to avoid sales drops. Acne Studios could be investing in a shopping app, enhanced through a personalized customer experience, gamification through fidelity points to make simplify the digital user journey. Net à Porter, a retailer that sells Acne Studios garments makes the overall shopping experience always more convenient. Other websites like Aliexpress.com and Alibaba.com are a real danger for luxury brands as they steal their creative integrity by selling cheap counterfeit goods. Blockchain implementation in our digital fashion world has become vital. The Swedish tool ‘Virtusize’ has found the digital solution to a major problem encountered when buying online. Virtusize helps customers choose the right size and fit by comparing the product with previously bought items thanks to an innovative system of measurement comparison (virtusize, 2021). Acne Studios quickly began using this digital intelligence as it gives online customers a feel for a curated and personalized shopping experience.

environmental The environmental dynamics of the fashion industry have increasingly changed over the last decade; Acne now publicly publishes annual sustainability reports. According to the Fairwear Foundation, Acne has ‘has shown advanced results on performance indicators and has made exceptional progress. With 98% of production under monitoring’. The starting point for their sustainability journey lies in delivering high quality ethically produced products they are proud of. Their sustainability philosophy consists of three fundamentals (AcneStudios.com) ‘our products’ Acne studios believe that the garments produced must be high-quality durable with a long lifespan. All of the textiles, materials and techniques used are meticulously chosen to ensure all these above criteria and be as environmentally conscious as possible. ‘our suppliers’ With over 62 suppliers it is crucial for acne studios to be transparent in their supply chain. The intent is to respect the Labor Standards, protect the worker’s rights and have fair working conditions. ‘our operations’ This ties together the two previous fundamentals. Proposing mindfully sourced, high-quality durable products isn’t enough for Acne Studios. They will extend their sustainability ambition as far as keeping track of the environmental impact their whole supply chain has by measuring their carbon footprint impact each year and publishing them in their sustainability report. Furthermore, they will try to accurately calculate the number of stocks needed for each product to avoid any excess supply and therefore waste. Acne Studios do not use their sustainability ambition as an advertising technique so called green washing that does nothing else but diminishing the cause. However, whilst Acne is famous for their pink packaging, they might want to invest on eco-friendly bags. 98 98

legal With over 800 employees all over the world, 8 offices, 62 suppliers in 200 production locations in 16 countries (Acne Studios Social Report, 2019), Acne Studios need to make sure that they obey and respect labor laws and legislation that differ from country to country. Labor Standards and the new employment laws must be met as for paying below the minimum wages could cause Acne Studios to have encounters with the law/court. The brand must put aside their creativity originating from their art collective and have the CEO or board of directors’ handle issues such as data protection copyright infringement and trademark laws.

acne studios’ name In Acne Studios the name ‘acne’ relates to the commonly known skin disorder, which is what appealed to Jonny Johansson, a man by nature rebellious and fighting conformity. Appropriating a ‘difficult’ word and transform it into a fashion staple was stimulating for him. (grailed, 2018) During an interview for French magazine Marie Claire, he stated that perfection is boring. He continues by adding that there is something very attracting about imperfection, probably because it has an intellectual element to it. For him, that is the beauty of humanity. (Marie Claire, translated from French to English)

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face motif logo A simple, easy to replicate and a universally understandable emoticon consisting of two dots and one straight line. This intentional throwback to the debut of internet, the MSN era with Facebook, where people would send ‘ :/ ’ before the arrival of emojis is meant to trigger nostalgia. This became Acne Studios motif logo quickly after the 2017 ‘face motif’ collection with a campaign portraying a queer family all wearing clothes and accessories with this face mascot. In his own words this simple emoticon is a metaphor for the Swedish citizen: ‘Well it’s just an ordinary Swedish citizen. Not too happy, not too sad, but somewhere in between. Lagom in Swedish.’ (danskmagazine). Translated in english this word would mean ’just the right amount’. It’s a philosophy, a way to perceive, integrate and expect things: ‘lagom är bäst’ meaning ‘the right amount of best’. In this sense, this emoticon represents a sense of satisfaction, of fulfilled pleasure obtained from the minimum; just like how acne’s clothes are minimalist.

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competitor analysis YEARS OF EXISTENCE Acne Studios: 1996 Celine: 1894 APC: 1987. ARKET: 2017 PRODUCTS Acne Studios: minimalist scandi-style menswear, womens-ready to wear, accessories, denim (acnestudios.com, 2020) Celine: luxury feel, handbags, leather goods, ready to wear, shoes, jewellery and sunglasses (celine.com, 2020) APC: french style, minimalist raw denim, men’s and women’s clothing, accessories, leather goods ARKET: scandi-style, womenswear, menswear, babywear, homeware, childrenswear QUALITY Acne Studios: high quality Celine: high quality APC: standard/high quality ARKET: standard quality PRICE Acnes Studios: high price point (200 euros for printed cotton tee shirt) CELINE: high-end luxury price point (320 for printed cotton tee shirt) APC: high end of affordable price points (90euros for printed cotton tee shirt) ARKET: affordable price point (49 for simple cotton tee shirt)

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BUSINESS REPUTATION Acne Studios: niche luxury brands, showcases at fashion show, internationally known Celine: belongs to most prestigious fashion brands, historical APC: laid back, some fashion shows, bridge brands people into fashion knows ARKET: emerging, popular in Scandinavia, with scandilifestyle becoming more popular slow rise to fame

SERVICES Acne Studios: in store assistant shopping, free refund, newsletters, 12-month warranty if product making defect, customer service, Celine: free refund, customer service, private shopping experience, loyal customers early access to the collections, fashion shows and events APC: free refund, customer service, in store help ARKET: customer service, free refund

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This newly opened flagship store in Stockholm architects, Igor Urdampilleta and Aitor Fuentes Swedish bank famous for the robbery and host ‘stockholm syndrome’.

The minimal aesthetic with marble columns of t filled location. This is the creative’s director defi “It’s a temple. For me the idea of a temple is a p owned by everyone. It’s part of our history but monumental flagship store in Stockholm.” (Tay 104 104

has been designed two Spanish s. They transformed the ancient tage that engendered the term

the store is in contrast with the historyfinition of ‘minimalist maximalism’. place that belongs to no one but is also the future. This is how I see our yler Willson, 2020)

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reference list the market sector Oclc.org. (2020). Fashion Online: Inc Impact of COVID-19 - UK - November 2020: The Consumer – Key Takeaways. [online] Available at: https://reports-mintel-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/display/1055185/?fromSearch=%3Ffreetext%3Dfashion%2520consumer%2520spending [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. McKinsey & Company. (2020). The State of Fashion 2021: In search of promise in perilous times. [online] Available at: https://www.mckinsey. com/industries/retail/our-insights/state-of-fashion [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ chille, A. and Zipser, D. (2020). A perspective for the luxury-goods inA dustry during—and after—coronavirus. [online] McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/aperspective-for-the-luxury-goods-industry-during-and-after-coronavirus# [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. Annachiara Biondi (2020). Coronavirus could cause a €40 billion decline in luxury sales in 2020. [online] Vogue Business. Available at: https:// www.voguebusiness.com/companies/coronavirus-luxury-brands-impact-sales-altagamma [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ tatista. (2020). Luxury Fashion - worldwide | Statista Market Forecast. S [online] Available at: https://www.statista.com/outlook/21030000/100/ luxury-fashion/worldwide [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. Erwan Rambourg (2020). Op-Ed | The Future of Luxury in 4 Trends. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/opinions/luxury/op-ed-the-future-of-luxury-in-4-trends [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. Gottl, G. and Gottl, G. (2020). Inclusive exclusivity is the new retail experience. [online] Retail | LS:N Global. Available at: https://www.lsnglobal. com/retail/article/25957/inclusive-exclusivity-is-the-new-retail-experience [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ officielusa.com. (2019). Russell Westbrook Stars in Acne Studios’s L Spring Campaign. [online] Available at: https://www.lofficielusa.com/ men/russell-westbrook-stars-in-acne-studios-s-spring-2019-campaign#:~:text=%E2%80%9CDenim%20is%20how%20Acne%20Studios,Studios%2C%20said%20in%20a%20statement.&text=%E2%80%9CI%20 really%20identify%20with%20Acne,unique%20too%2C%E2%80%9D%20 Westbrook%20said. [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ 110 ‌ 110 ‌

marketing mix and positioning Jonny Johansson | #BoF500 | The Business of Fashion (2019). Jonny Johansson is part of the BoF 500. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/ jonny-johansson [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. Yaeger, L. (2013). How Acne Studios Became a Fashion Powerhouse. [online] WSJ. Available at: https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB100014241278 87324678604578340402927911328 [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. Acne Studios. (2020). www.acnestudios.com. [online] Available at: https://www.acnestudios.com/uk/en/home [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ usannah Frankel: “I don’t understand my other half – I have 20 pairs of S jeans; he has two.” (2012). The Independent. [online] 13 Jun. Available at: https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/susannah-frankel-i-don-t-understand-my-other-half-i-have-20-pairs-jeans-hehas-two-7848524.html [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ ikipedia Contributors (2020). Acne Paper. [online] Wikipedia. Available W at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acne_Paper [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ ashionbi.com. (2019). Acne Studios Financials. [online] Available at: F https://fashionbi.com/brands/acne-studios/financials [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cne Studios. (2020). www.acnestudios.com. [online] Available at: A https://www.acnestudios.com/fr/fr/about/csr.html [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ orency, C. (2018). What’s Acne Studios Worth? [online] The Business M of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/finance/whats-acne-studios-worth [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ aci.co.uk. (2013). Acorn - The smarter consumer classification | CACI. C [online] Available at: https://acorn.caci.co.uk/ [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ otler, P. and Armstrong, G., 1991. Principles of marketing. Englewood K Cliffs, N.J.: Prentice Hall. acne studios, 2020. Acne Studios SS20 Strindberg. Press Release Morwenna Ferrier (2018). Acne Studio’s Jonny Johansson: the designer who started millennial pink? [online] the Guardian. Available at: https:// www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/oct/28/acne-studios-jonny-johansson-the-designer-who-started-millennial-pink [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌

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‌ Mellery-Pratt, R. (2013). Mikael Schiller on Acne’s Unexpected Journey. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/mikael-schiller-on-acnes-unexpected-journey-acne-jeans-kering [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021].

proposed communication plan

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Statista. (2019). U.S. Gen Z & Millennials social network reach by gender 2019 | Statista. [online] Available at: https://www.statista.com/statistics/471543/millennials-usa-social-media-reach-gender/ [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌

appendices

‌ ‌ ‌ Mellery-Pratt, R. (2013). Mikael Schiller on Acne’s Unexpected Journey. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessof‌ fashion.com/articles/news-analysis/mikael-schiller-on-acnes-unexpected-journey-acne-jeans-kering [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. Hawkins, A. and Hawkins, A. (2020). Pandemic Pop-ups. [online] Pandemic Pop-ups | LS:N Global. Available at: https://www.lsnglobal.com/micro-trends/article/26329/pandemic-pop-ups [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. Okeowo, A. (2021). Vice President Kamala Harris on the Road Ahead. ‌ [online] Vogue. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/article/kamala-harris-cover-february-2021 [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. Chavie Lieber (2020). The Risks and Rewards of Dressing American Politicians. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/marketing-pr/donald-trump-joe-biden-kimberly-guilfoyle-rnc-fashion-chiara-boni-ivanka-trump-kayleigh-mcenany [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ ttps://www.facebook.com/notesmatic (2017). PESTEL/PESTLE Analysis h of the Fashion retail industry. [online] notesmatic. Available at: https:// notesmatic.com/2017/09/pestelpestle-analysis-of-the-fashion-retail-industry/ [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ ikipedia Contributors (2021). List of websites blocked in mainland ChiW na. [online] Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_ websites_blocked_in_mainland_China [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021].

‌ cKinsey & Company (2020). The State of Fashion 2020. [online] . AvailM able at: https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/McKinsey/Industries/Retail/Our%20Insights/The%20state%20of%20fashion%202020%20Navi112 gating%20uncertainty/The-State-of-Fashion-2020-final.pdf. 112 ‌

IMFBlog (2020). The Great Lockdown: Worst Economic Downturn Since the Great Depression. [online] IMF Blog. Available at: https://blogs.imf. org/2020/04/14/the-great-lockdown-worst-economic-downturn-sincethe-great-depression/ [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ oogle.com. (2020). Clause de non-responsabilité – Google Finance. [onG line] Available at: https://www.google.com/intl/fr/googlefinance/disclaimer/ [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ clc.org. (2020). Fashion & Sustainability: Inc Impact of COVID-19 O UK - September 2020 - Market Research Report. [online] Available at: https://reports-mintel-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/display/989900/?fromSearch=%3Ffreetext%3Dfashion%2520sustainability [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ anskmagazine.com. (2012). Acne Studio’s Queer Family | DANSK MagD azine. [online] Available at: http://www.danskmagazine.com/attention/ acne-studios-queer-family/ [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ herman, L. (2018). 6 Reasons Luxury Brands Should Embrace S the Resale Market. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/6-reasons-luxury-brands-should-embrace-the-resale-market [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ irtusize.com. (2021). Virtusize - The #1 fitting solution. [online] AvailV able at: http://www.virtusize.com/site/how-it-works [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ RAND PERFORMANCE CHECK Acne Studios. (2019). [online] . Available B at: https://api.fairwear.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/acne-studios-performance-check6.pdf. ‌ ottl, G. and Gottl, G. (2020). Inclusive exclusivity is the new retail expeG rience. [online] Retail | LS:N Global. Available at: https://www.lsnglobal. com/retail/article/25957/inclusive-exclusivity-is-the-new-retail-experience [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. Tayler Willson (2020). Jonny Johansson | HYPEBEAST. [online] Hypebeast.com. Available at: https://hypebeast.com/tags/jonny-johansson [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ ‌ ‌

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visual reference list Acnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: http://press.acnestudios.com/capsule-collections/womens-ss20-strindberg/images [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. Acnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: http://press.acnestudios.com/collections/womens-fall-winter-2020/ backstage-images [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌‌ Acnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: http://press.acnestudios.com/collections/womens-fall-winter-2020/runway-images [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: A http://press.acnestudios.com/collections/womens-fall-winter-2020/detail-images [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: A http://press.acnestudios.com/collections/womens-fall-winter-2020/venue-images [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available A at: http://press.acnestudios.com/collections/mens-fall-winter-2020/detail-images [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: A http://press.acnestudios.com/collections/mens-fall-winter-2020/backstage-images [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available A at: http://press.acnestudios.com/collections/mens-fall-winter-2020/ show-venue [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: A http://press.acnestudios.com/special-projects/floragatan-13/floragatan-13 [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: A http://press.acnestudios.com/special-projects/floragatan-13/cocktail [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available A at: http://press.acnestudios.com/special-projects/floragatan-13/festen [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: A http://press.acnestudios.com/denim/springsummer-2020/style-images [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. 114 114

Acnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: http://press.acnestudios.com/denim/springsummer-2020/lookbook [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available A at: http://press.acnestudios.com/face-motif/spring-summer-2020/lookbook [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: A http://press.acnestudios.com/capsule-collections/monster-in-my-pocket/flatshots [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: A http://press.acnestudios.com/special-products/eyewearSS20/flatshots [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: A http://press.acnestudios.com/special-products/smallleathergoods/images [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available A at: http://press.acnestudios.com/special-products/stripes-fw19/jacob-dahlgren-product- [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available A at: http://press.acnestudios.com/stores/magasinsgatan-gothenburg/ store-images- [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: A http://press.acnestudios.com/stores/west-hollywood-los-angeles/interior-images [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: A http://press.acnestudios.com/stores/paris-quai-voltaire/interior-images [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: A http://press.acnestudios.com/stores/paris-rue-froissart/interior-images [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. ‌ cnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: A http://press.acnestudios.com/stores/horatio-street-new-york/images [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. Acnestudios.com. (2020). Acne Studios Press Room. [online] Available at: http://press.acnestudios.com/stores/shibuya-/store-images- [Accessed 8 Feb. 2021]. 115

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