Ortelius Ross Sea expedition with helicopters

EXPLORING BY SHIP

Bluff, NewZealand

Ushuaia,Argentina

McMurdo

A one-in-a-million experience

Oceanwide Expeditions gave us the opportunity to sail aboard the rugged m/v Ortelius to Antarctica. It was a true adventure from New Zealand to the Ross Sea and the McMurdo Sound, followed by an 11day voyage amidst the icebergs of the so-called Doomsday Glacier, culminating in the enjoyment of the Antarctic Peninsula.

Interesting fact: our northernmost destination was... Ushuaia!

One month at sea, on a sturdy expedition ship with a fantastic team and only 80 passengers... absolutely awesome!

With this magazine, we want to share our experience with all of you. E j !

Welcome onboard Ortelius

Ortelius is one of the expedition ships of Oceanwide Expeditions. She has the tough look of a working ship. That is normal: Ortelius was built in Gdynia in 1989 as Marina Svetaeva for the Russian Academy of Science. In 2011, she was purchased by Oceanwide to take passengers to the polar regions. Specifically for our trip, she carries three helicopters: two in the hangar, and one aircraft lashed to the helideck.

First stop, Snares Island.

With the Zodiacs we explore a few big caves.

Subantarctic Islands

Snares erect-crested penguins on the rocky coast of Snares Island.

Campbell Island

Overnight, and through the course of the morning, we travel through rolling swells to Campbell Island, around 660 km from our departure in Bluff.

The seas around Campbell Island are utterly full of life, we see hundreds of albatrosses, including light-mantled albatross, Campbell albatross, black-browed albatross, grey-headed albatross, and the enormous southern royal albatross (1 and 3). There are also thousands of sooty shearwaters, white-chinned petrels, giant petrels, and some very curious Campbell shags who repeatedly fly close to the ship.

Hurricane

On the evening of day 4, the weather circus starts its performance. We swagger through the corridors as if we have had too much wine. On the bridge, we enjoy the spectacle of the bow cleaving through the 14-meter-high waves. Until the jokes turn into a phase of green laughter. With a wind force of 12, Mother Nature forces us all to kneel.

Cape Adare, Antarctica

Captain Per Andersson has his navigation strategy well laid out. Even though it seemed like we were barely moving forward for 24 hours, we arrive at Cape Adare on the scheduled day.

Yesterday we had a detailed briefing regarding the helicopters. As we navigate between table icebergs and marvel at the brutal beauty of the Antarctic landscape on the outside decks, excitement hangs in the air. Will we fly today?

Passing Le Commandant Charcot, the only ship we will see in weeks

Three Helicopters

And yes, Sara gives the green light. Ortelius sets sail for Robertson Bay, where we are sheltered from the wind. Moments later, the air ballet begins. The orange MBB Bö108 helicopter takes off first. This frees up space to get the other two helicopters ready. The two "Ecureuils" are taken out of the hangar and immediately the technicians mount the blades. And off we go, following the strict procedures. Safety first!

Watch the short video about the helicopter operations.

The Big Freeze

The ocean is freezing. A few days later navigation will be impossible.

Historic Huts & Polar Legends

“Welcome to Robert Falcon Scott's Terra Nova Expedition hut. I have just been inside, and I tell you, you can breathe the air of that time.”

Temperature -33°C

Tennessee Blackmoore, expedition team historian

Mc Murdo Station

Mc Murdo Sound

Extreme Destination: The Dry Valleys

Flying by helicopter to the Dry Valleys stands out as one of the most exhilarating highlights of our cruise. As the chopper lifts off, we soar over the pristine Antarctic landscape. The mesmerizing views of the endless icy expanse, towering peaks, and the stark beauty of the Dry Valleys unfold beneath us.

With each passing minute, our anticipation builds, knowing that we're about to set foot in one of the most remote and untouched regions on Earth. The sheer scale and ruggedness of the landscape are awe-inspiring, reminding us of the raw power and majesty of nature.

As we descend to the Dry Valleys, we can't help but marvel at the surreal scenery below. The helicopter gracefully touches down, and we step out onto this alien landscape, where the extreme conditions mimic those found on Mars.

“These valleys, devoid of snow and ice, reveal a stark desert-like terrain that feels otherworldly.”

Lien, contemplating the vast landscape of the Dry Valleys,with the huge wall of the Canada Glacier dominating the landing site.

A mummified crabeater seal, possibly 800 years old.

Flying back to the Ortelius, we carry with us the memories of this extraordinary adventure, a journey to a place few have ever witnessed, and a deeper appreciation for the wonders of the natural world. This helicopter expedition is undoubtedly a highlight that will forever be etched in our memory.

Our Captain takes a detour to circumnavigate this huge iceberg, and even positions the ship bow-on for some stunning photography.

Shackleton’s Nimrod Expedition

Just an 8-minute flight this time, to get to Cape Royds, on the flanks of Mount Erebus. Today we visit Shackleton’s Nimrod Expedition hut.

What a time capsule. The food, boots, sleeping bags... So many tins of familiar brands of food. It looks like you could start a fire in the stove and start cooking a fine meal. It must have felt crowded during the winter. With15menandtheirbunks,therewouldbelittlespacetomovearound.

The Mount Erebus

With its 3,794m, Mount Erebus is Antarctica’s highest active volcano, and second highest mountain on the seventh continent.

Cape Bird

Evening Zodiac landing

Ross Sea Ice Shelf

With gusts exceeding seventy knots and air temperatures plummeting to around minus 50°C when factoring in wind chill, the captain and helicopter pilots make the prudent decision not to attempt a flight over the Ross Ice Shelf. Instead, we start a ship cruise along the calving front.

The unbroken expanse of ice extends as far as the eye can discern, and despite its apparent vastness, it's nearly unfathomable to grasp that this colossal ice mass is roughly equivalent in size to France.

Navigating through a carpet of pancake ice.

Pancake Ice

Pancake ice is a mesmerizing natural phenomenon that graces the polar regions. It forms when slushy sea ice consolidates into round, flat, and circular pieces, resembling, as the name suggests, pancakes scattered across the water's surface.

Sailing through a big layer of pancake ice.

Climate Change

“If that was all to melt, global sea level would rise by 60 metres.”

Laurence Dyke, expedition team glaciologist

Amundsen Sea

Antarctic Petrel

Snow storm

Guiding us through the icy night, radar and searchlight unite for safe navigation amidst looming icebergs.

Antarctic Peninsula

Horseshoe Island

Antarctic? Arctic?

Vide Brandt, expedition guide, living in Longyearbyen, Svalbard

“It's amazing that you have the ability to walk around in the beaches in a safe manner, not worrying about polar bears.”

Pourquoi Pas Island

Lallemand Fjord

Port Charcot

The “iceberg graveyard”, near Port Charcot

Damoy Point

After breakfast, we walk to the Damoy Point airstrip, nestled amidst the stunning scenery of the Antarctic Peninsula. The snow-capped airstrip serves as a vital gateway for scientific research expeditions.

The awe-inspiring Seven Sisters Mountains dominate the landscape as they stretch majestically along the Peltier Channel.

Expedition guide Chloe Powers loves Antarctica.

“We should all be custodians of this great Southern Ocean and its continent.”

March 16, Damoy Point. The Antarctic summer is over, but we still see Gentoo penguin chicks. Will they survive? Let‘s ask expedition guide Dr. Gary Miller, one of the World’s most renowned penguin specialists.

De Gerlache Strait after sunset

Expedition leader Sara Jenner

“This has to be more than just a holiday. It has to be a learning trip, a trip where you think about your impacts and what we can do to help protect this most pristine part of the world.”