beer& barrel
Copper Kettles
North Carolina distillers move beyond the moonshiners’ legacy By julie johnson
There’s a new aisle in the local ABC store devoted entirely to distilled spirits from North Carolina. Barely over a decade ago, not one of these companies existed. Today, our state is second only to Kentucky in terms of the number of distilleries. There are now 53 of them, 21 of which opened in the last year, with more in the planning stages. Trace our love of strong drink to the Moravians who settled Salem and established the Single Brothers’ Distillery in 1773. Or to that unique stew of religion, Prohibition and taxation that gave us moonshine and NASCAR in the last century. But the modern surge in Tar Heel distilleries probably owes a debt to the success of craft brewing, and the shared appeal of local production and distinctive character. Since the first steps in producing distilled spirits are nearly identical to the process of making beer, the two are fermentation siblings. The other impetus for this overnight growth was the passage just over a year ago of a bill that permits North Carolina distilleries to sell one bottle per customer per year directly to any adult who tours the distillery. This has provided a modest but important revenue stream for small distilleries – as well as giving curious drinkers new destinations where they can learn and taste. Those tourists, however, may be surprised to learn that not all distilling companies control every stage of their 40 | midtownmag.com
production process. “One of the dirty secrets of our industry is that 75-80 percent of American distilleries do not make their own alcohol from scratch,” says Scott Maitland, president of the NC Distillers Association and founder of Top of the Hill Distillery. Instead, they buy neutral grain spirits from bulk producers, then redistill it, flavor it or age it to their own specifications. This is perfectly legitimate, although many distilling companies coyly skirt the subject. But the fact is, leaving the fermentation and initial distillation to a big producer often makes sense and can provide a gentler entry into the business. Distilling equipment is expensive. And unlike home brewing, a hobby that serves as an incubator for brewing professionals, there is no amateur league where future distillers can legally perfect their craft before going pro. Home distilling is frowned upon (See: ‘shine, revenooer). Neutral grain spirits, which all come off the still clear, can be steered in many directions after distillation, allowing secondary producers great flexibility. Spirits distilled at 95 percent alcohol, filtered, can become vodka. To make gin, start with spirits that do not exceed 80 percent alcohol, and redistill the spirits with juniper and other botanicals (aromatic herbs and spices). If the grain base is over 51 percent corn and the fermented spirit is aged in a new American oak barrel for color and flavor, it becomes bourbon.