SEE DO HEAR EAT: Berlin - 2nd Edition

Published as a bespoke guide First published 2015 2nd edition, MAY 2016 © Michael Reid Sydney, Michael Reid Berlin, 2016

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CONTENTS

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Foreword by Michael Reid

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Berlin by Fabian Muir

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Michael Reid Berlin and its Neighbourhood

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See, Do and Stay

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Food and Drink

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Shopping

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Hear

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Online

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Berlin is a city of contrasts. Museums and memorials bear witness to a turbulent and divided past. Since the fall of the Wall Germany’s capital has transformed itself into one of Europe’s most creative and cultural centres – a hip contemporary consciousness infiltrating every aspect of Berlin life.

Tourism is booming. An eclectic abundance of galleries, museums, restaurants, cafés, shops and markets provides a feast for the senses and the mind. Little wonder that almost 12 million visitors have sampled Berlin’s delights in the past year.

Described by long-standing mayor Klaus Wowereit as “poor but sexy”, Berlin’s rapidly gentrifying cobblestone streets find organic supermarkets standing alongside derelict, bullet-ridden, graffiti-covered buildings, and boutique designer showrooms interspersed with communist era apartment blocks.

Michael Reid

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Berlin: hot spot and melting pot. It’s Europe’s worst

motor. Others, many of them budding artists,

kept secret. Mere mention of the place seems to

will be drawn to the fact that Berlin remains

send a jolt of electricity through everyone, even

remarkably affordable, enabling young people to

those who have never been. ‘Ah, I can’t wait to go

live in a highly stimulating environment and create

there’ is the most typical response I hear, a stark

works that may or may not (alas, frequently not)

contrast to the Baskerville fog that used to settle

be the first important steps towards a significant

in people’s eyes when I previously told them I lived

career.

in Munich (a beautiful and culturally vibrant town, I should add, unjustly victim to weary clichés of

But it does take a certain type to live and prosper

oversized beers and Lederhosen).

there, for Berlin doesn’t simply offer herself, it is up to the individual to take the initiative and try

Such enthusiasm is not what one would typically

to seduce her. One could also say that it holds a

expect of a scruffy, disorganised city, for by French

special appeal for those who do not (yet) crave

or Italian standards Berlin is not a beautiful place, and

suburban stability. If you prefer a predictable

the modern version thumbs her nose at the olde

environment – one that offers, to quote Radiohead,

worlde Prussian order and perfection Berlin once

“no alarms and no surprises” – Berlin will never

embodied. Yet for all her rough edges and flawed

be more than a short-term proposition. But

perfection she exudes an undeniable magnetism,

for those who thrive on never quite knowing

drawing you in more than her rivals, in much the

what might be around the corner, who nourish

same way that the best dressed girl at a party is

themselves on all the changing colours of

not necessarily the one most worth talking to.

life, bright or dark, and who understand how monotony is the scourge of creativity, Berlin

Some will be attracted to Berlin’s arts and culture,

presents opportunities that most other European

some to her uniquely complex place in history, some

capitals cannot.

to her joyous acceptance of every conceivable genre of weirdness. For others it’s Berlin’s intellectual

Perhaps the fascination of Berlin lies in her layers,

rigour or the sense of calm and slowness – somewhat

with the history – inspiring and depressing in equal

surprising in the capital of Europe’s economic

measure – leaping or lurking on every corner.

“one cannot grow bored in Berlin, for the only limit is one’s own imagination”

This was a town turned on its head by a succession

Soviet military bases or GDR factories, for Berlin

of crazed ideologies and where two worlds quite

abounds with overgrown, abandoned places that no

literally collided for decades, which means that

one can afford to rehabilitate or restore. Or perhaps

years, perhaps even a lifetime are required before

I will simply explore, as yet unfamiliar streets and

one can understand the ebbs and flows. As much as

districts, where classic European buildings or

I love Sydney, Melbourne and the outback, you can’t

hideous socialist ones look down and muse upon

find that there.

the confluence of cultures from all corners of the

Indeed each time you begin to feel you have a handle on the place, something new will reveal itself.

Berlin is constantly in flux, always experimenting, always building, rebuilding and reinventing herself.

It borders on the miraculous, yet it is easy to take for granted the fact that Berlin has emerged as one of the world’s most tolerant and progressive cities after a seeming age of darkness.

If I have a free day, I am spoilt for choice. Do I go to a world class museum or exhibition? Do I visit one of the operas or theatres, eminently affordable due to generous government subsidies and again, world class? Do I ride my bicycle through the gardens of Schloss Charlottenburg or along the many waterways, of which there are more in Berlin than in Venice? Do I hit the Anna Funder trail and seek out remnants of the East German regime?

Or, for a change of pace, I can pack a camera and creep around the ruins of 19th century sanatoria,

globe. Along the way I might pause in an elegant, high-ceilinged café, where the ghosts still blush from their 1920s excesses, before visiting some of the city’s hundreds of galleries; one cannot grow bored in Berlin, for the only limit is one’s own imagination.

The one thing I probably won’t do is have a plate of Currywurst mit Pommes (sausage with curry sauce and chips), Berlin’s riposte to the pie floater and a strangely vital cog in the city’s economy.

Ultimately everyone has their own Berlin. Mine is just one of 3.5 million approaches to the place. Berlin may be 800 years old, but she remains a work in progress and her reincarnations make her impossible to define. But whether you’re a tourist, expat or homegrown Berliner, Berlin will always reward those who have the nerve to cross the room and talk to her, the less glamorous but most interesting girl at the party.

It’s up to you to take the first step.

Fabian Muir

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Michael Reid Berlin

Tel: +49 0 175 62 65 100

Ackerstraße 163, D–10115 Berlin

infoberlin@michaelreid.com.au

Open: Tues–Sat, 11–5pm

michaelreid.com.au

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Christian Thompson, On Becoming, 2015

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MICHAEL REID AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD In 2012 Michael Reid noticed that Berlin attracts the poor, the talented and the brave. Counting himself amongst their number he decided that Berlin would be the perfect location for sharing and cultivating a current, contemporary view of Australian art, “beyond a post-colonial lens”.

Michael Reid Galleries staged Murr-ma: Uncovering Aboriginal & Australian Contemporary Art, a major Australian group exhibition, in the Hamburger Bahnhof, a prominent exhibition space behind the museum of contemporary art (Museum für Gegenwart). The show presented the best of contemporary Australian artistic practice – Joseph McGlennon, Marian Drew, Adam Cullen and Deborah Paauwe; and indigenous Papunya Tula artists George Tjungurrayi, Johnny Yungut Tjupurrula and Ronnie Tjampitjinpa.

Shortly afterwards Michael Reid galleries dived further into the Berlin arts scene by presenting key Australian works at Preview Berlin Art Fair.

The positive reception that greeted these two exhibitions led to the 2013 establishment of

Top: Alesandro Ljubicic, Perylene Quin Rose, 2016

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Michael Reid Berlin in Ackerstraße on the ground

architect-designed gallery spaces, and a former

floor of an 1870s building that, miraculously, had

Jewish school in Auguststraße houses a multi-

survived the ravages of war, time and politics.

level arts precinct. Close by, in a reclaimed factory, the Berlin Biennale headquarters

Ackerstraße lies in the central district of Mitte,

shares premises with Kunst-Werke Institute for

home to significant landmarks such as the city

Contemporary Art. Known for its cutting-edge

Town Hall, Brandenburg Gate, Berlin Cathedral

contemporary art exhibitions, KW Institute has

and Fernsehturm (Television Tower). For 28

collaborated with MoMA PS1, the Venice Biennale

years, from 1961-1989, Ackerstraße was divided

and Documenta.

by the Wall. Today, at its corner with Bernauer Straße, a preserved portion of “no man’s

Impressive private contemporary art

land” forms the outdoor Berlin Wall Memorial

collections – Sammlung Hoffmann and Sammlung

(Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer), a tourist hot

Boros (in a converted bunker) – can be viewed by

spot offering a pervasive reminder of the once

appointment and the Me Collectors Room

divided city. Also within short walking distance

Berlin / Stiftung Olbricht offers an interesting take

of the gallery is the Protestant cemetery,

on the display of private art collections by inviting

Friedhof II der Sophiengemeinde Berlin,

prestigious art collectors to present their works

commemorating a host of notable composers

as part of a rotating exhibition program. Located

and artists, singers, philosophers and historians.

less than a kilometre away is the Museums Island, home to museums of antiquity, archaeology and

Mitte is perhaps best known for its arts and

art – the Pergamon Museum, Alte Nationalgalerie

cultural connections. During the 1990s the

and Altes Museum and Bode Museum.

Kunsthaus Tacheles (now closed), located on nearby Oranienburger Straße, was home to artists’ collectives, studios, workshops and a cinema. Today, tucked away courtyards reveal

Rachael Vance

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Bottom: Petrina Hicks, Venus, 2013

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S E E D O + S T A Y MICHAEL REID BERLIN

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ART

Berlin’s contemporary art scene is like no other;

focused institutions and astounding private

its quirks and contrasts forging a chaotic and

collections. As in Australia, photography is

undeniably electric mix. Berlin has become an

particularly prominent in Germany and this

unlikely magnet for artists and art lovers. After

is reflected in both the number and quality of

a century of violence and control it is now a city

photographic exhibitions held in Berlin.

defined by its colour and creativity.

The peak times for the international art world There are commercial and artist-run spaces

glitterati to travel to Berlin centre around the

galore – the last count stopped at 400 and

annual Gallery Weekend Berlin in May [gallery-

noone seems to know (or care) anymore. Local

weekend-berlin.de] and Berlin Art Week every

graffiti artists have sought out every imaginable

September [berlinartweek.de].

surface – the majority of their work falling well outside the overused descriptor street art.

The selected locations below are a small cross-

From bare-bones exhibitions pulled together by

section – with my personal favourites highlighted.

struggling emerging artists, to the slick white

Please drop in at the gallery to say hello and find

cubes of global mega-galleries, Berlin has it all.

out more about what’s on during your visit.

The selection of museums is world class – wide-ranging public galleries; smaller, more

Left: Stephen Bush, Tapton House, 2015

Toby Meagher

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Left: Michael Reid Berlin Right: Joan Ross, Who is gonna clean up this mess, 2015 Opposite Page: Linde Ivimey, Luscinius, 2013

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P R I V AT E C O L L ECT I O N S The Boros Collection (Sammlung Boros)

Thomas Olbricht Collection

Private collection of big name Contemporary

to the present day. Thomas Olbricht often

Art (think Ai Weiwei) collector, Christian Boros.

shares the exhibition space with other invited

Housed in a very stylishly converted World

international private collectors. Follow

War II bunker with the private Boros family

your visit with a drink or dinner in beautiful

Bond villain-esque residence on the top floor.

Auguststraße.

Bunker, Reinhardtstraße 20, 10117 Berlin

Me Collectors Room Berlin/Olbricht Foundation, Auguststraße 68, 10117 Berlin

Open: Thurs–Sun Visits only possible by booking guided tours in advance through the website (book approximately 6 weeks ahead of your planned visit). sammlung-boros.de

TOBY’S PICK

Extensive collection from the Renaissance

Open: Tues–Sun 12.00pm–6.00pm Guided tours Sat 2.00pm me-berlin.com

Arthur de Ganay Collection

Hoffmann Collection

Large format photography collection

Contemporary art collection started in 1968

investigating landscape and architecture,

by Erika and Rolf Hoffmann and on display in

housed in a former jam factory on the banks

Erika Hoffmann’s home.

of the River Spree.

Sammlung Hoffmann, Sophienstraße 21, 10178 Berlin Köpenicker Straße 10A, 10997 Berlin Open: Guided tours given monthly on Saturdays at 2pm. Register through the website. collectionarthurdeganay.com

Open: Saturdays 11.00am–4.00pm. Register for guided tours through the website a few days in advance.

Sammlung-hoffmann.de

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A R T FA I R S

Right: Michael Peck, Scout, 2016

May

Leipzig – Spinnerei Rundgang

During Gallery Weekend – and at other times

On the first weekend of May each year, the

of the year by appointment – the 5000 square

Spinnerei opens it’s doors to ​over 15,000 ​

metres of studio space at Lehderstraße 34

visitors. Once the largest cotton mill in Europe,

hosts a diverse and unique exhibition in which

the complex now houses 14 galleries, a communal

artists invite other artists to exhibit paintings,

arts centre, 140 artist studios (including Neo

sculpture, multi media, installations, film and

Rauch), as well as restaurants, fashion designers,

photography.

architects, printers, a goldsmith, a pottery, a film club, a porcelain manufacturer, and an arts

Gallery Weekend Berlin Lehderstraße 34, 13086 Berlin

supply store.​An hour south of Berlin on the train and a very rewarding day-trip.​

gallery-weekend-berlin.de | artistweekend.com spinnerei.de

September : Art Month in Berlin Berlin Art Week | berlinartweek.de abc – art berlin comtemporary artberlincontemporary.com Positions Berlin Art Fair | positions.de Open Street Ackerstraße | ackerstreet.de Community initiative (established by Michael Reid) during which Ackerstraße’s many studios, galleries and shops are open all day and into the evening, hosting talks and activities.

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Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate)

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MUSEUMS

Museuminsel (Museum Island) Unique, World Heritage-listed ensemble of five museums built on a small island in Berlin’s Spree River: Pergamon Museum, Altes Museum (fantastic Schinkel building), Neues Museum, Alte Nationalgalerie, Bode Museum. Also Schlossbrücke (Palace Bridge), Lustgarten (very nice for a walk) and the Berliner Dom.

Bodestraße, 10178 Berlin (Note: Bode Museum, Alte Nationalgalerie and Altes Museum closed on Mon) Mon–Fri 10.00am–6.00pm Thurs 10.00am–8.00pm Sat and Sun 10.00am–6.00pm smb.museum

Left: Museuminsel (Museum Island)

Berlin Kulturforum

Hamburger Bahnhof

Collection of cultural buildings including the

This Museum for Contemporary Art

New National Gallery (closed until 2019),

(Museum für Gegenwart) is housed Berlin’s

Philharmonie and Chamber Music Hall (home

former central station. One of the largest

to the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra), Neue

public collections of contemporary art in

Staatsbibliothek (New State Library), the

Berlin, it has a regularly changing exhibition

Kupferstichkabinett (graphic collection) and

program and also houses a very good café/

the Gemäldegalerie (one of the world’s most

restaurant run by the well-known German

important collections of Old Master works).

chef, Sarah Weiner.

Matthäikirchplatz 4–6, 10785 Berlin Closed on Mondays Tues–Fri 10.00am–6.00pm Thurs 10.00am–8.00pm Sat and Sun 11.00am–6.00pm smb.museum

Invalidenstraße 50–51, 10557 Berlin Closed on Mondays Tues–Fri 10.00am–6.00pm Thurs 10.00am–8.00pm Sat and Sun 11.00am–6.00pm smb.museum

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MUSEUMS

C/O Berlin Foundation

Haus am Waldsee

An exhibition centre for photography. Founded

A visit to the Haus am Waldsee, located

in 2000, it moved to Amerika Haus – the former

almost in Potsdam, is the perfect way to

US culture and information centre – in 2014.

escape the busy city and view the work of German, mostly Berlin-based, contemporary

Amerika Haus, Hardenbergstraße 22–24, 10623 Berlin Mon–Sun 11.00am–6.00pm

artists. Take a day trip and go on to the Schloss San Souci and the beautiful royal grounds at Potsdam.

co-berlin.org Argentinische Allee 30, 14163 Berlin TOBY’S PICK

Closed on Mondays Tues–Sun 10.00am–6.00pm hausamwaldsee.de

Museum für Fotografie and the Helmut Newton Foundation

The Kunstbibliothek’s Collection of Photography

The Museum of Photography in the

All forms of photography – from the dawn of

Charlottenburg district of Berlin, Germany, is

the photographic medium to artistic works

one of the Berlin State Museums administered

by contemporary photographers – displayed in

by the Prussian Cultural Heritage Foundation.

the newly restored Kaisersaal.

The Museum hosts a rotation of specialist exhibitions in addition to the permanent exhibition “Helmut Newton’s Private Property”.

Jebensstraße 2, 10623 Berlin Closed on Mondays Tues–Fri 10.00am–6.00pm Thurs 10.00am–8.00pm Sat-Sun 11.00am–6.00pm

Kunstbibliothek, Matthäikirchplatz 6 Closed on Mondays Tues–Fri 10.00am–6.00pm Thurs 10.00am–8.00pm Sat-Sun 11.00am–6.00pm

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MEMORIALS

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (Holocaust Memorial) No visit to Berlin should miss this understated and yet remarkably powerful public memorial.

How can public art even come close to articulating such unspeakable losses? Somehow gridded slabs of concrete come close. This memorable space for contemplation is a stone’s throw from the Reichstag, the Brandenburg Gate and the Tiergarten.

Cora-Berliner-Straße 1, 10117 Berlin Field of Stelae accessible 24h a day Exhibition at the Information Centre open: April–September: Tues–Sun, 10.00am–8.00pm (last admission 7.15pm) October–March: Tues–Sun, 10.00am–7.00pm (last admission 6.15pm) stiftung-denkmal.de

Top: The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

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The Stasi Museum A huge complex that once housed the Ministry

Berlin Hohenschönhausen Prison Memorial

of State Security or Staatssicherheit (Stasi).

Concrete and barbed wire surround this

The building was stormed by protestors after

infamous GDR processing facility for political

the fall of the wall halting the destruction of 30

dissidents. Its detainees were kidnapped without

years of files and so preserving the records of

charge in non-descript delivery vans, isolated

a dark chapter in Berlin’s history. The building

and ‘corrected (read: psychologically tortured

is now also home to the organisation that

and humiliated). The kitsch and mundane

made the Stasi’s unfathomably dense archives

1960s interiors of the interrogation offices are

available to those on whom it spied.

terrifying in their bureaucratic simplicity.

Tours are usually led by former inmates.

Ruschestraße 103, Haus 1, 10365 Berlin Mon–Fri 10.00am–6.00pm Sat, Sun, Holidays 12.00pm–6.00pm Tel: +49 30 553 68 54 stasimuseum.de

Genslerstraße 66, 13055 Berlin Open daily. Tours in English at 2.30pm en.stiftung-hsh.de

MICHAEL REID BERLIN

Bottom: Berlin Wall Memorial

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MEMORIALS

Berlin Wall Memorial

East Side Gallery

A mixture of parkland, memorial and museum

A great location for a walk along the

and the best site to take in the history of the

Spree on a sunny Berlin day. Iconic graffiti

wall. None of the commercial tackiness of

and messages of hope cover a section of

Checkpoint Charlie and much more enlightening

the former boundary between East and

than the East Side Gallery for the historically

West Berlin.

interested. Visitors can follow the line of the wall (Mauerweg), reading tales of escape whilst tracking the history of a divided city. A 70m long section of the original wall is maintained in its late 80s state, with a guard tower and the barbaric trip wires and traps of “no-man’s land”.

Bernauer Straße Open daily. berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de TOBY’S PICK

Mühlenstraße, 10243 Berlin Open all year round. eastsidegallery-berlin.de

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Below: Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall)

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WALK

Right: Siegessäule (Victory Column), Tiergarten

Körnerpark

Volkspark Humboldthain

Small, but very beautiful, palace garden in

A large ‘Bunker-berg’ (A Nazi anti-aircraft

Neukölln. Unlike Tiergarten, this space usually

bunker / man-made hill) just north of Mitte in

avoids heavy tourist traffic.

the ‘wild’ Wedding locality that offers good views back over Berlin. Great park for a

Schierker Straße 8, 12051 Berlin Open 10.00am–8.00pm (closed on Mondays)

Tiergarten Tiergarten, Berlin’s oldest, largest and most popular public park, is the perfect place for a walk or a picnic. Explore the numerous monuments and take a Velotaxi when you get tired.

Straße des 17. Juni 100, 10557 Berlin

quiet morning run. At Gesundbrunnen train station (Brunnenstraße 105) you can book underground tours of the Bunker.

Brunnenstraße, 13355 Berlin TOBY’S PICK

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S TA Y

Airbnb

25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin

Offering apartments across the city, Airbnb

Budapester Straße 40, 10787 Berlin

is a very popular alternative to commercial

Tel: +49 30 12 02 21 0

accommodation in Berlin.

bikini@25hours-hotels.com

airbnb.com

25hours-hotels.com/en/bikini/home/home.html

Casa Camper Berlin

Hotel am Steinplatz

Weinmeisterstraße 1, 10178 Berlin

Steinplatz 4, 10623 Berlin

Tel: +49 30 2000 34 10

Tel: +49 30 55 44 44 0

berlin@casacamper.com

contact.steinplatz@hotelsteinplatz.com

casacamper.com

hotelsteinplatz.com

Hotel de Rome

Berlin Gorki Apartments

Behrenstraße 37, 10117 Berlin

Weinbergsweg 25, 10119 Berlin

Tel: +49 30 460 60 90

Tel: +49 30 48 496 480

info.derome@roccofortehotels.com

booking@gorkiapartments.de

roccofortehotels.com/hotels-and-resorts/hotel-de-rome

gorkiapartments.de

TOBY’S PICK

Hotel Amano

Adina Apartment Hotel Berlin Hackescher Markt

Auguststraße 43, 10119 Berlin Tel: +49 30 80 94 15 0

An der Spandauer Bruecke 11, 10178 Berlin

amano@amanogroup.de

Tel: +49 30 209 6980

amanogroup.de/hotels/amano

abhm@adina.eu

Soho House Berlin

tfehotels.com/brands/adina-apartment-hotels/adinaapartment-hotel-berlin-hackescher-markt TOBY’S PICK

Torstraße 1, 10119 Berlin Tel: +49 0 30 40 50 440 sohohouseberlin.com

Adina Apartment Hotel Berlin Checkpoint Charlie Krausenstraße 35-36, 10117 Berlin Tel: +49 30 2007670 aber@adina.eu tfehotels.com/brands/adina-apartment-hotels/adinaapartment-hotel-berlin-checkpoint-charlie

Adina Apartment Hotel Berlin Hauptbahnhof Adina Apartment Hotel Berlin Hauptbahnhof Platz Vor dem Neuen Tor 6, 10115 Berlin Tel: +49 30 2000320 abhb@adina.eu tfehotels.com/brands/adina-apartment-hotels/adinaapartment-hotel-berlin-hauptbahnhof

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F O O D + D R I N K

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E AT

Mozzarella Bar & Bottega – Al Contadino Sotto le Stelle

Alpenstück Restaurant

Order an Aperol and the Caponata and

traditional southern German food. Great

you will not be disappointed!

schnitzel.

Auguststraße 34, 10119 Berlin Mon–Sat 11.30am–11.30pm Tel: +49 30 978 941 40 | info@alcontadino.eu bottega.alcontadino.eu

Gartenstraße 9, 10115 Berlin Daily 6.00pm–1.00am Tel: + 49 30 217 516 46 | info@alpenstueck.de alpenstueck.de

Modern and simple interpretations of

TOBY’S PICK

Katz Orange Pauly Saal

Relaxed, seasonal share plates in a smartly

Contemporary dining room in the former

Bergstraße 22, 10115 Berlin Daily from 6.00pm Tel: + 49 30 983 208 430 | info@katzorange.com katzorange.com

refectory of a Jewish Girls’ school. The 6 course set-menu changes frequently and the

refurbished Brewery.

adjoining bar is one of the best in the area.

Auguststraße 11-13, 10117 Berlin Tues–Sat for lunch (12.00–2.00pm) and dinner (6.00–9.30pm) Tel: +49 30 3300 6070 | office@paulysaal.com paulysaal.com

Kopps (vegetarian) Linienstraße 94, 10115 Berlin Mon–Sun from 6.00pm weekend brunch 9.30am–4.00pm Tel: +4930 432 097 75 | kontakt@kopps-berlin.de kopps-berlin.de

Clärchens Ballhaus Very good pizzas and a fantastic beer garden in the Summer. Great for large groups and casual dining.

Auguststraße 24, 10117 Berlin Daily from 11.00am (until the last guest leaves) Tel: +49 30 28 29 29 5 / +49 30 30 64 22 68 rungen@ballhaus.de | ballhaus.de

Lutter & Wegner This 200-year-old institution offers classic German hospitality and food and one of the best wine lists in Berlin. Beautiful location overlooking the old Gendarmenmarkt square.

Alter Potsdamer Straße 5, 10785 Berlin Daily from 11am–3am Tel: +49 30 20 29 54 15 | info@l-w-berlin.de l-w-berlin.de TOBY’S PICK

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Right: Clärchens Ballhaus

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KAFFEE & FRÜHSTÜCK

If you’re craving good strong coffee these locations are part of the hip ‘3rd wave’ of coffee shops in Berlin, taking their espresso very seriously and bucking the trend of bad coffee in Berlin.

Distrikt Coffee

Bonanza Coffee Heroes

Great for coffee, breakfast and lunch.

Best coffee in Prenzlauer Berg.

Bergstraße 68, 10115 Berlin Daily from 8.30am Weekends from 9.30am info@distriktcoffee.de

Oderberger Strraße 35, 10435 Berlin Daily from 8.30am Weekends from 10.00am bonanzacoffee.de

The Barn

Strandbad Mitte

Coffee specialists and roasters.

More substantial breakfast and lunch

Auguststraße 58, 10119 Berlin Daily from 8.00am Weekends from 10.00am barn.bigcartel.com

offerings. Perfect for a leisurely morning.

Kleine Hamburger Strraße 16, 10117 Berlin Daily from 9.00am–1.00am Tel: +49 30 24628963 www.strandbad-mitte.de

SÜßES

Ice cream is very much a ‘thing’ in Berlin – so don’t be afraid to treat yourself! Here are some of the coolest spots in town:

Hokey Pokey

Leck Mich

Beautifully presented, handmade ice cream.

100% Organic, hand-crafted ice cream.

Stargarder Strraße 73, 10437 Berlin Daily from 12.00pm–7.00pm

Ackerstraße 144, 10115 Berlin April–October, Mon–Sat 12.00pm–8.00pm

Eislabor Ice creamery and cakes.

Raumerstraße 31, 10437 Berlin April–October, Mon-Sat 12.00pm–8.00pm

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BARS

Berliners certainly don’t mind a drink and some of the best watering holes are found by accident. When summer rolls around, don’t be afraid to grab a take-away bier from a local Spät Kauf (corner shop) and sit on the grass in the sun.

Meine Bar

TOBY’S PICK

The perfect Berlin bar. Effortlessly cool, smoke-stained walls, relaxed atmosphere and

Monkey Bar Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 40, 10787 Berlin​ Open: Mon–Sun: 12.00pm–1.00am Tel: +49 30 120221210

one of the best record collections in town.

Augustraße 61, 10117 Berlin Open: Mon–Wed 1.00pm–2.00am, Thurs–Sat 1.00pm–3.00am, Sun 4.00pm–1.00am

Buck & Breck Behind a non-descript door hides this small and

Pauly Bar

intimate cocktail bar that appears on most lists

Cool, art deco bar in a former Jewish Girls

Brunnenstraße 177, 10119 Berlin Open: daily from 7.00pm Tel: +49 176 323 155 07 buckandbreck.com

school, adjoining the Pauly Saal restaurant.

Auguststraße 11–13, 10117 Berlin Open: daily from 6.00pm Tel: +49 30 3300 6070

Nathanja & Heinrich Weichselstraße 44, 12045 Berlin Open: daily 3.00pm–3.00am kontakt@nathanja-heinrich.de

of the best cocktail bars in the world.

Newton Bar Charlottenstraße 57, 10117 Berlin Open: Sun–Wed 10.00am–3.00am Thurs–Sat 10.00am–4.00am Tel: +49 30 20 29 54 21 newton-bar.de

Prater Garten Seasonal, self-service beer garden – the oldest in Berlin – shaded by beautiful large chestnut trees.

Kastanianallee 7–9, 10435 Berlin Open: Daily from 12.00pm pratergarten.de

Café am Neuen See Lichtensteinallee 2, 10787 Berlin Open: Mon–Fri from 11.00am, Sat and Sun from 10.00am Tel: +49 30 2544930 cafeamneuensee.de

Fischerhütte am Schlachtensee Fischerhüttenstraße 136, 14163 Berlin Open: Daily from 9.00am Tel: +49 30 80 49 83 10 fischerhuette-berlin.de

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MICHAEL REID BERLIN

BEER GARDENS

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FOOD & FLEA MARKETS Mauer Park Flea Market The largest and most well known markets.

Clothes, records, antiques and lots to eat. Hundreds watch karaoke and buskers

Food & Farmers’ Market Arminushalle, Moabit Arminiusstraße 2–4, 10551 Berlin Open: Mon–Sat 8:00am–10:00 pm arminiusmarkthalle.com

during summer. Neighbouring Mauerpark was once the no man’s land separating East and West Berlin.

Bernauer Straße 63–64, 13355 Berlin Sun 9.00am–6.00pm flohmarktimmauerpark.de

Street Food Thursday at Markethalle 9

Weekly Produce and Flea Market Fresh fruit and vegetables, meat and fish, flowers, clothes, flea market.

Winterfeldtmarkt, Winterfeldtplatz, 10781 Berlin Wed 8.00am–2.00pm, Sat 8.00am–4.00pm

Farmers’ Market

Bustling indoor market with great food and wine.

Eisenbahnstraße 42/43 10997 Berlin Open: Thurs 5.00pm–10.00pm markthalleneun.de/street-food-thursday

Seasonal fruit and vegetables, flowers, deli food, homemade arts and crafts. Organic market on Thursdays.

Kollwitzplatz, 10405 Berlin Sat 9.00am–4.00pm, Thurs 12.00pm–7.00pm

Arkonaplatz Flea Market

Turkish Market

Really fantastic little Sunday market.

Street food, fresh produce and textiles in the

Books, records, second-hand clothing, GDR

centre of Berlin’s Turkish community.

trinkets, household goods and furniture.

Maybachufer, Neukölln, 12047 Berlin Open: Tuesday and Friday 11.00am–6.30pm tuerkenmarkt.de

Arkonaplatz 10435 Berlin Sun 10:00am–4:00pm TOBY’S PICK

MICHAEL REID BERLIN

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FA S H I O N

KaDeWe A Berlin institution and one of the largest department stores in Europe. Definitely don’t miss the food hall on the 7th floor – worth a visit in itself.

Kaufhaus des Westens, Tauentzienstraße 21–24, 10789 Berlin Open: Daily from 10.00am Tel: +49 30 2121 0 kadewe.de

Top: Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe)

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Hakescher Markt

Bikini Berlin

Explore the streets around the station – full

A concept shopping mall with designated

of hidden cafés, designer labels and local

spaces for up-and-coming designers. The

boutiques.

central hall boasts a panoramic window onto the monkey enclosure in the Berlin Zoo. Who’s

Mitte District, Berlin 1017

watching who?

Open: Daily 11.00am–8.00pm hackeschermarktberlin.de

Budapester Straße 38-50, 10787 Berlin Mall open: Mon–Sat 9.00am–9.00pm Sun 1.00pm–6.00pm

Mall of Berlin

Bikini Berlin Garden open everyday 9.00am–10.00pm Tel: +49 30 55 49 64 54 bikiniberlin.de

Leipziger Platz 12, 10117 Berlin Open: Mon–Sat 10.00am–9.00pm, Sun 1.00pm–7.00pm Tel: +49 30 206 217 70 mallofberlin.de

MICHAEL REID BERLIN

Bottom: Bikini Berlin

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RECORD SHOPS

Coretex Records

Space Hall

Oranienstraße 3, 10997 Berlin

Zossener Straße 33, 10961 Berlin

Open: Mon–Fri 11.00am–8.00pm, Sat 11.00am–6.00pm

Open: Mon–Wed 11.00am–8.00pm, Thurs and Friday 11.00am–10.00pm, Sat 11.00am–8.00pm

Tel: +49 30 61 28 00 50 coretexrecords.com

Tel: +49 30 694 76 64 spacehall.de

Jazz Dreams

The Record Store Berlin

Hermann-Hesse-Straße 25, 13156 Berlin

Invalidenstraße 148, 10115 Berlin

Open: Mon–Fri 1.00pm–6.00pm, Sat 12.00pm–4.00pm

Open: Mon–Sat 12.00pm–8.00pm

Tel: +49 30 54 84 05 50 / +49 30 85 60 63 60 jazz-dreams.de

Tel: +49 30 2844 46 80 facebook.com/TheRecordStoreBerlin/

JAZZ

A-Trane

Quasimodo

Pestalozzistraße 105, 10625 Berlin

Kantstraße 12a, 10623 Berlin

Open: Sun–Thurs 8.00pm–1.00am, Fri and Sat 8.00pm onwards

Open: Restaurant Mon–Thurs 3.30pm–12.00am, Fri 3.30pm–1.00am, Sat 12.00pm–1.00am, Sun 12.00pm–12.00am

Tel: +49 30 313 25 50 a-trane.de

Doors open for concerts at 9.00pm Tel: + 49 30 318 045 60 quasimodo.de

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CLASSICAL MUSIC Pianosalon Christophori

Berlin Philharmonie

Concerts take place in a former boat factory

The home of classical music in Berlin.

“Uferhallen”, which is now a dusty piano

Check the website for tickets and times.

workshop. Very casual, very Berlin.

Herbert-von-Karajan-Straße 1, 10785 Berlin Uferhallen, Uferstraße 8, 13357, Berlin Open: Concerts on different days. Check the website for tickets and times. konzertfluegel.com TOBY’S PICK

Tel: +49 30 254 88-0 berlin-philharmoniker.de

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Below: Berlin Philharmonie

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BEST BERLIN WEBSITES AND B LO G S

BEST APPS

Stil in Berlin

BVG FahrInfo Plus Berlin

Guide to the best places to eat, drink and

Up-to-date schedules and trip plans for Berlin’s

visit in Berlin.

public transport systems.

stilinberlin.de

Duolingo Slow Travel Berlin Guide to Berlin offering very good, not so touristy, tours. slowtravelberlin.com

Learn German for free – ‘far and away the best language-learning app’, The Wall Street Journal

Unlike City Guide Insider guides, comprehensive listings, personal

INDEX Berlin

recommendations and user-discoveries.

A guide to Berlin contemporary art galleries,

Street Art Berlin

openings and events. indexberlin.de

Guide to the hotspots of Berlin Street Art. Detailed descriptions of the best – including hidden – walls.

Foursquare Find food and entertainment options in your surrounding area.

BEST I N S TA G R A M

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@michaelreidberlin Toby Meagher for Michael Reid Berlin

@konaction Konrad, urban photographer

@juancamiloberlin Juan C. Roa, Berlin-based Colombian

@Michaelreidart Michael Reid (when in Berlin)

@thomas_k Thomas Kakareko, street photographer

@slowberlin Slow Berlin

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IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD

Coffee & Breakfast

Sweets

Distrikt Coffee

Leck Mich

The Barn Strandbad Mitte Dining Mozzerella Bar & Bottega Katz Orange Alpenstück Restaurant Clärchens Ballhaus Pauly Saal Bars Meine Bar Buck & Breck Pauly Saal

Shop The Record Store Berlin Hackescher Markt Art Michael Reid Berlin Thomas Olbricht Collection Sammlung Hoffman Transit U Rosenthaler Platz: U8 U Weinmeisterstraße: U8 S Oranienburger Straße: S1, S2, S25

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MICHAEL REID S E E D O H E A R E AT BERLIN Written by Michael Reid Fabian Muir Rachael Vance Toby Meagher Joseph Marr Luzia Schmittmann Designer Mairead Gillespie Daisy Aylott Editor Emily Cloney

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Michael Reid Berlin

Tel: +49 0 175 62 65 100

Ackerstraße 163, D–10115 Berlin

infoberlin@michaelreid.com.au

Open: Tues–Sat 11–5pm

michaelreid.com.au