Good Times Food & Drink Magazine 2018

Food&Drink GOOD TIMES

MAGAZINE 2018

F O S T E SECR

Z U R C A T N A S TAIN MUSHROOMS MOUN P8 Y S E E W N K A S I H P A J E TH ZE GOES LOC P12 AL CRA E R A S WHY LEMON THE BEST SUMMER P22 FRUIT

S A N TA C R U Z .C O M | G O O D T I M E S . S C

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䠀䄀倀倀夀 䠀伀唀刀 圀攀攀欀搀愀礀猀 ㌀ⴀ㘀 䈀刀唀一䌀䠀 圀攀攀欀攀渀搀猀 ㄀㄀ⴀ㈀ 2018 | GOODTIMES.SC | SANTACRUZ.COM | FOOD & DRINK

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CONTENTS Editor’s note

FORAGING WITH FREDDIE

U

HOW SANTA CRUZ’S WILDEST MUSHROOMS GET ON YOUR PLATE

sually when someone says “let’s go out for food,” they mean to a restaurant. But in this issue of Food & Drink Magazine, we’re going way, way out for food—like to the forest, where Lily Stoicheff will introduce you to the man who finds the wild mushrooms that are served in restaurants around Santa Cruz. And while we’re out in the Santa Cruz Mountains, we’re going to check out the top-notch Rosés that our region is producing, courtesy of Christina Waters. And then we’ll take a trip down to Quail Hollow Ranch in Felton. Did you know that for many years it was the center of innovation in the American kitchen? You’ll find out why in this issue.

8 TASTES LIKE BURNING MAN SANTA CRUZ GETS ITS FIRST KAVA BAR P14

FELTON: AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN THE LITTLE-KNOWN HISTORY OF SUNSET MAGAZINE AT QUAIL HOLLOW RANCH P16

UNITED UNDER THE BIG TINT THE EXCELLENT ROSÉS OF THE SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS P20

FOOD GOES HERE

DOMO ARIGATO, NOW I AM BLOTTO WHY JAPANESE WHISKIES ARE ALL THE RAGE

12

Sometimes we’ll go “out there” in a different way, exploring the cutting edge of local food and drink trends like kava bars and Japanese whiskies. And sometimes it’ll just be conceptually, like Maria Grusauskas’ rumination on the underappreciated Meyer lemon.

Obviously, we’ve got a lot of ground to cover, so let’s go out for food!

A CALENDAR OF SANTA CRUZ COUNTY FOOD AND DRINK EVENTS P27

STEVE PALOPOLI | EDITOR

staff I GET A RIND WHY MEYER LEMONS ARE THE BEST

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PUBLISHER

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Debra Whizin

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Steve Palopoli

Lisa Buckley Sue Lamothe Ilana Rauch Packer Cynthia Runyon

MANAGING EDITOR

ACCOUNTING

Jeanne Howard EDITOR

Maria Grusauskas CONTRIBUTORS

Georgia Johnson Lily Stoicheff Christina Waters ART DIRECTOR

Tabi Zarrinnaal DESIGNERS

Rosie Eckerman DiAnna VanEycke

Sarah Puckett CIRCULATION MANAGER

Shannen Craig

OFFICE MANAGER

Kari Mansfeld CEO

Dan Pulcrano VICE PRESIDENT

Lee May

A Good Times publication.

Cover design by Tabi Zarrinnaal.

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GOLD MINE Chanterelles harvested by Freddie the Forager.

A delicacy on the Central Coast, they can usually be found mid-December through April. PHOTO: ELLEN BAKER

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A Real Fun Guy Meet Freddie the Forager, the man who brings local diners many of their freshest mushrooms

By Lily Stoicheff

I

f you have enjoyed fresh chanterelles, porcini or black trumpet mushrooms at a local restaurant, chances are you have Freddy Menge to thank. Freddy the Forager, as he’s known to local chefs, has been collecting wild mushrooms for 30 years, from over a thousand self-discovered mushroom rings throughout the area, and provides them to restaurants like La Posta, Bantam, Ristorante Avanti, Gabriella Café, and Home in Soquel.

I sat down with the Santa Cruz County native at his homestead in La Selva to find out more about the man behind the mushrooms and discuss how he came into this unconventional trade.

How did you start foraging?

FREDDY MENGE: When I was in my mid-20s, I had quit my family business and gone back to college. I had no money, and didn’t have any food. Someone gave me a book about wild edible plants. I was going to Berkeley, and I would go above the football stadium and pick a bunch of weeds. I’d find thistles, sow thistle and nettles. I’d see that it was in the book and I’d take it back and cook it, and I found I could live like that on about a dollar a day. I ate a couple of eggs and a potato and tons of these vegetables. I had terrible acne at the time, and the acne cleared up. I was like, ‘Holy cow! I’m getting out in nature, I’m in a quiet spot where I can do my homework, I get free food, I’m learning about these plants that are interesting. These 10 >

2018 | GOODTIMES.SC | SANTACRUZ.COM | FOOD & DRINK

9

GETTING MELOMELO

ON TAP Along with kava drinks, MeloMelo will also serve kombucha and CBD sodas at the new downtown location.

BAY AREA-BASED KAVA BAR IS SET TO BRING MOUTH-AND-MIND-NUMBING GOOD VIBES TO DOWNTOWN

I

f you ask MeloMelo Kava Bar co-owner Rami Kayali, kava juice and Burning Man go hand in hand; they are both mind-numbing, a little weird and taste like dirt.

The kava juice is a Pacific Island drink (also known as ‘awa in Hawaii) made from the kava root and traditionally served in coconut shells. It’s a sedative drink, that while making people feel good, also causes palate, mouth and throat numbness.

“That’s how you know that we aren’t just sprinkling some random dirt into a coconut shell. It’ll numb your mouth,” Kayali says.

“So if you are stressing, you knock back some kava and it takes the edge off.”

Kava has historically been served in welcoming ceremonies is an important part of social gatherings in traditional Pacific Ocean communities like Hawaii, Samoa and Vanuatu. Kava is not regulated by any state

or federal law, and is completely legal in the U.S. However, MeloMelo requires that its patrons be 18 or older.

“This isn’t just some drink that you drink and get messed up on, there is a cultural association and very rich history behind it all,” Kayali says.

After Burning Man, Kayali says he would want to decompress and was surprised to find out that there were no kava bars in the Bay Area. With a couple of friends, he decided to open his own more than three years ago in Berkeley.

MeloMelo was the Bay Area’s first kava bar, and Kayali is opening its second sister location this summer, right in the heart of downtown Santa Cruz.

“It’s nice to go somewhere that you don’t feel pressured to have a drink,” Kayali says. “It’s a place to decompress and get out of the bars and drunken idiots scene.”

BY GEORGIA JOHNSON

10

FOOD & DRINK | SANTACRUZ.COM | GOODTIMES.SC | 2018

Along with kava, MeloMelo will be serving tea, kombucha and special multi-flavored CBD sodas on tap. At the Berkeley location they also serve Santa Cruz-based Cacoco drinking chocolate, though Kayali says with the location’s proximity to Mutari Chocolate and other local drinking chocolate brands, they might steer clear of serving chocolate.

He says that the bar will also have a projector and lights at night to make it more of a club scene, but during the day they will showcase a 150-square-foot living plant wall and have wifi for those who want to study or hang out.

“Think of it as a bar without the alcohol that’s open for people to do whatever.”

MeloMelo is set to open in August, with a possible soft opening in July. They will be open noon to midnight. 1101 Pacific Ave., Suite D, Santa Cruz. melomelokavabar.com.

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11

y WHISK TSUNAMi

Japanese whiskies get big in Santa Cruz

J

BY CHRISTINA WATERS

apanese whisky inspires such adjectives as “silky,” “honeyed” and “smooth.” This is due in part to the attention to detail with which they are distilled, the barreling and the pure spring water foundation.

But another part of it is the freedom they allow from the tradition that defines Scottish single malts; e.g., the extreme brininess and peatintensity of Islay and Laphroaig. When Yamazaki Single Malt Sherry Cask 2013 took the World’s Best Whiskey title in 2015, Western aficionados knew something had changed. And California bars, lounges, saloons, and spirits shops are paying close attention.

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Cheyne Howell, owner of Deer Park Wine & Spirits, is a knowledgeable proponent of Japanese whiskies in the Santa Cruz area. Deer Park carries a wide range of these up-and-coming liquors, including four whiskies from Nikka, and several from Suntory—one of the oldest distilleries in Japan— including Toki, Hibiki and Hakushu.

“People have definitely been coming in and asking about them,” says Howell.

“It’s a category that has surged. We have a Whisky Club here and at a tasting we did recently, we definitely made some fans for these Japanese whiskies.”

Howell describes the Japanese style as “basically Scotch without the peaty smoke. Essentially all the same ingredients, but with key flavor differences thanks to the Japanese water, the barrels, and the yeasts they use.”

Legend has it that an adventurous Japanese apprentice named Masataka Taketsuru learned to love Old World whisky by working for a distillery in Scotland in the early 1920s. (Which is why Japanese whisky is not spelled “whiskey.” “Whisky” is the traditional Scottish spelling, while the Irish and Americans adopted “whiskey.”) When Taketsuru returned home to Japan, he made the first Nikka whisky in 1940.

Suntory whisky, founded by Shinjiro Torii, released its first effort in the

late 1920s. Inspired by the traditions of Scotland, Suntory was filled with innovation and new methods of blending, distilling and barrel aging.

At Oswald in downtown Santa Cruz, barkeep Josh Youngblood walked me through the house Japanese whiskies, including two offshoots of the Suntory empire—Hakushu, a 12-year single malt, and a complex blended Hibiki Harmony.

The Harmony is a blend from Suntory’s three distilleries—Yamazaki, Hakushu, and Chita. All three are layered into a mellow expression of caramel, chocolate, even a hint of marshmallow and possibly orange peel. A beautiful blended creation. From Nikka comes an ultra-smooth Coffey Grain Whisky, creamy and nutty with tones of vanilla.

All three were gorgeous, though the Hakushu, with its hint of peat smokiness, remained my favorite.

Once you start looking for it, Japanese whiskies are everywhere in Santa Cruz.

U-Save Liquors on Mission offers two top Japanese whiskies on its mega-wall of whiskies: Kikori—which combines rice and grain in its mash and won a gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition last year—and the popular Suntory Toki, a unique marriage of Hakushu American white oak cask malt whisky and Chita’s heavy grain whisky.

The back bar at Solaris, tucked between

the dining room and swimming pool of Hotel Paradox, currently offers two top Japanese whiskies, the popular Hibiki and Kaiyo, a restrained and smooth creation with bits of vanilla and oak gracefulness. The bartender remarked that Solaris plans to expand the house offering of Japanese whiskies.

Bantam’s leading-edge bar offers a few Japanese whiskies in addition to Japanese gins and vodkas. Here you’ll be able to sample the Toki Blended, Hibiki Harmony, Hakushu Single Malt, Nikka Coffey Grain, and Nikka Coffey Malt, perfumed with notes of cherry, cinnamon and orange peel tones.

At 515 Kitchen & Cocktails, Japanese whiskies are available to sip and try in cocktails. “We feature a cocktail called the Orchard Highball which incorporates Asian Pear, and Cinnamoninfused Suntory Toki, seltzer, and lemon oil,” bar manager Ethan Samuels tells me. 515 carries more than a half dozen Japanese whiskies, including Nikka Yoichi Single Malt, with hints of smokiness along with citrus and cocoa nose, and rumored to have been inspired by the briny Islay Scotch single malt. “Most of the Japanese whisky we pour is served neat,” Samuels says, “though in a highball with seltzer is a very traditional way to enjoy it and is great on a summer’s day.”

2018 | GOODTIMES.SC | SANTACRUZ.COM | FOOD & DRINK

13

GETTING MELOMELO

ON TAP Along with kava drinks, MeloMelo will also serve kombucha and CBD sodas at the new downtown location.

BAY AREA-BASED KAVA BAR IS SET TO BRING MOUTH-AND-MIND-NUMBING GOOD VIBES TO DOWNTOWN

I

f you ask MeloMelo Kava Bar co-owner Rami Kayali, kava juice and Burning Man go hand in hand; they are both mind-numbing, a little weird and taste like dirt.

The kava juice is a Pacific Island drink (also known as ‘awa in Hawaii) made from the kava root and traditionally served in coconut shells. It’s a sedative drink, that while making people feel good, also causes palate, mouth and throat numbness.

“That’s how you know that we aren’t just sprinkling some random dirt into a coconut shell. It’ll numb your mouth,” Kayali says.

“So if you are stressing, you knock back some kava and it takes the edge off.”

Kava, historically served in welcoming ceremonies, is an important part of social gatherings in traditional Pacific Ocean communities like Hawaii, Samoa and Vanuatu. Kava is not regulated by any state

or federal law, and is completely legal in the U.S. However, MeloMelo requires that its patrons be 18 or older.

“This isn’t just some drink that you drink and get messed up on; there is a cultural association and very rich history behind it all,” Kayali says.

After Burning Man, Kayali says he would want to decompress and was surprised to find out that there were no kava bars in the Bay Area. With a couple of friends, he decided to open his own more than three years ago in Berkeley.

MeloMelo was the Bay Area’s first kava bar, and Kayali is opening its second sister location this summer, right in the heart of downtown Santa Cruz.

“It’s nice to go somewhere that you don’t feel pressured to have a drink,” Kayali says. “It’s a place to decompress and get out of the bars and drunken idiots scene.”

BY GEORGIA JOHNSON

14

FOOD & DRINK | SANTACRUZ.COM | GOODTIMES.SC | 2018

Along with kava, MeloMelo will be serving tea, kombucha and special multi-flavored CBD sodas on tap. At the Berkeley location they also serve Santa Cruz-based Cacoco drinking chocolate, though Kayali says with the location’s proximity to Mutari Chocolate and other local drinking chocolate brands, they might steer clear of serving chocolate.

He says that the bar will also have a projector and lights at night to make it more of a club scene, but during the day they will showcase a 150-square-foot living plant wall and have wifi for those who want to study or hang out.

“Think of it as a bar without the alcohol that’s open for people to do whatever.”

MeloMelo is set to open in August, with a possible soft opening in July. They will be open noon to midnight. 1101 Pacific Ave., Suite D, Santa Cruz. melomelokavabar.com.

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Trendsetters of the West ne nd Ruth La T Larry a E S er N ft U a S 7, FELTON low Ranch in 193 ol ne. at Quail H ed ‘Sunset’ magazi H ir OW RANC u LL O cq H a L AI ey U th TESY OF Q OUR PHOTO: C

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Inside the kitchen and historical ranch of Quail Hollow county park

By Lily Stoicheff

Q

uail Hollow Ranch is remarkably idyllic. Golden grasses flow from the entrance gate off of Quail Hollow Road near Zayante toward a white, two-story ranch house shaded by massive California oaks and a giant sequoia. Native flora abounds in the 300-acre Santa Cruz County park and nature preserve, located on one of the last sandhills remaining in the area. It contains 15 habitats and 4.5 miles of hiking trails, which allow those lucky enough to stumble upon this gem to explore it more deeply.

Considering its beauty, it’s no wonder that in 1937, Larry and Ruth Lane chose to make this historic property their vacation home. The couple and their sons Mel and Bill had recently relocated from Iowa to Burlingame after purchasing Sunset magazine in 1929. Larry Lane was able to revitalize the struggling publication by refocusing the content on Western living, with departments devoted to home building and decorating, travel, gardening, and cooking. The regional content at the center of the magazine emphasized the character of the West, specifically the circulation areas of Southern California, Northern California and Oregon/Washington. The Lane family owned the magazine until 1992, when Time Warner bought it for $225 million.

The Lanes were great admirers of the Western lifestyle, especially the integration of indoor and outdoor living and do-it-yourself home improvements, which became hallmarks of Sunset. Although they weren’t natives, the time they spent at Quail Hollow inspired them to explore and promote the ideals of Western living, an ethos which is still upheld by the publication today.

Some of the ideas pioneered by the Lanes at Quail Hollow have since become ubiquitous in American homes, like their kitchen, whose features were cutting-edge at the time.

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2018 | GOODTIMES.SC | SANTACRUZ.COM | FOOD & DRINK

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“When you stand in here and look around, it’s a boring room for the most part.

Until you start to look at some of the details,” says docent and historian Richard James.

The Lanes installed large, state-of-the-art corner windows and laid a brick floor, a throwback to the old Spanish style which had been somewhat forgotten at the time the Lanes moved here. The goal was to give the space a patio-like feel, “so you could feel like you were outdoors while being indoors,” explains James.

The kitchen and dining area is a single room, separated only by a counter. In the 1930s, most Western homes were constructed with separate kitchens and dining rooms, but the Lanes knocked down the wall to create a more open space, separating them only with a kitchen island— another avant-garde feature.

In a number of articles in Sunset, they emphasized that the separation of kitchen and dining room was an outdated throwback to a time when cooking was done by servants, and advocated integrating the kitchen with the rest of the house.

A custom stainless steel counter, backsplash and sink runs along the back wall.

While stainless steel is used widely in residences today, it was Bill Lane who brought his knowledge of stainless steel back to Quail Hollow after serving in the Navy in World War II. At the time, stainless steel was used exclusively in commercial settings, but Bill saw its potential for use in the home. Installed by the Lanes in <17

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FOOD & DRINK | SANTACRUZ.COM | GOODTIMES.SC | 2018

KITCHEN OF DISTINCTION The dining area in the kitchen during the Lanes’ time at Quail Hollow. PHOTO: COURTESY OF QUAIL HOLLOW RANCH

the late 1940s, the counter is still in such excellent condition that one might assume it was recently constructed. “As far I can tell, this is the first use of stainless steel in the kitchen,” says James. “They wrote about it in Sunset magazine—‘The Virtues of Stainless Steel in the Kitchen.’ Shortly thereafter, it took off across the country.”

The Lanes entertained often at Quail Hollow, and frequently invited executives, builders, architects, people in the publishing industry, and respected members of the San Francisco community to stay on the ranch. Cooking and dining outdoors was something they considered integral to the Western lifestyle, and they constructed the outdoor patio that overlooks the sloping lawn where guests could gather and enjoy the beauty of the ranch.

Outdoor entertaining was further facilitated by a small room off the patio with a wet bar, sink, and refrigerator that opened directly

on the patio for serving drinks.

The inventiveness of the Lanes is evident throughout the house. They were also one of the first to install skylights, and used industrial castoffs (residential skylights were not available) in a hall in the center of the house, where Ruth would cut and arrange flowers. A huge sliding glass door—originally meant for a commercial building—takes up almost an entire wall in the master bedroom, now a classroom, and looks out onto the lawn, and, at the time, Ruth’s garden. The stables on the property were remodeled by Larry and are still in excellent condition.

The Lanes sold the property in 1954, but their mark remains evident everywhere today.

Not only at their beloved Quail Hollow ranch, but in kitchens and homes throughout the West.

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19

In the Pink

Santa Cruz Mountain rosé is enough to make wine lovers blush BY CHRISTINA WATERS

A

Rosé by any other name is blush wine—or if you’re local winemaker Randall Grahm, “pink wine.” And while many wine drinkers started their careers on the infamous Mateus and Lancers, premium California Rosé has grown into its own, both in quality and popularity.

A good Rosé is a crisp Rosé, able to refresh the palate and partner almost any food. Rosé can be the product of brief skin contact with red grapes. Or some of the pink juice in a vat of red grapes can be removed at an early stage, a method called saignée. The pink juice can then be made into a Rosé wine.

Just what is the allure of Rosé, a wine that occupies its own gossamer twilight zone somewhere between red and white?

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FOOD & DRINK | SANTACRUZ.COM | GOODTIMES.SC | 2018

For one thing, it’s insanely beautiful, with hues ranging from the most delicate dawn rosiness to a rich peach color. For another thing, it’s usually lighter in alcohol than your basic big-shouldered Malbec or Cabernet. And finally, Rosé offers itself in summery flavors; for example, strawberry, cranberry, watermelon, and peach. Rosé can partner with almost any food, from tacos to tortellini, which is another one of its strengths. Picnics and barbecues love Rosé, and so does almost every picky wine lover.

Santa Cruz Mountains winemakers offer many appealing Rosé wines. From Ser Winery comes a pale pink beauty called Rosé of Cabernet Franc, full of crisp edges, spice, and hints of pomegranate. Ser winemaker Nicole Walsh also makes a party-worthy

sparkling Nebbiolo Rosé. Windy Oaks’ Jim Schultze has created a Bastide La Combe Pinot Noir Rosé that cries out for al fresco afternoons. From Big Basin Vineyards comes an exciting Rhone-style Rosé made from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Birichino’s 2016 Vin Gris Rosé is a muscular pink blend of Mourvedre, Cinsault, and Grenache, brimming with tones of guava, tangerine and strawberry.

Long a lover of pink wines, Bonny Doon Vineyard’s Grahm has turned out many vintages of his blushing Vin Gris de Cigare Rosé, created from both red and white Rhone grapes, filled with hints of watermelon, cranberry and green apple.

Rosé—at its best when well chilled—is a wine to be quaffed, not contemplated. And summer is prime time.

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Lemons WHEN LIFE GIVES YOU

AN ODE TO ZEST FROM A MEYER LEMON CONVERT

I

BY MARIA GRUSAUSKAS

n a Smithsonian article by food writer Ruth Reichl, she admits to her lunch date Michael Pollan that she is “not a Meyer lemon person.” Not only that, she hates that everyone loves them so much.

“They’re muted,” says Reichl, who prefers the lemons of Sorrento, Italy. “I like the acid. I also feel that way about onions now. It’s so hard to get an onion that makes you cry.”

Well. Everyone is entitled to their opinion and personal taste. And Reichl is not incorrect: a cross between a Mandarin orange and a regular lemon, the Meyer lemon is sweeter and lower in acid than a regular lemon, though it’s still high in immune-boosting vitamin C. Introduced by Amsterdam-born Frank Meyer in the early 20th century, the Meyer is mild enough to eat straight without going into a full pucker.

24 >

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FOOD & DRINK | SANTACRUZ.COM | GOODTIMES.SC | 2018

SURF CITY VINTNERS:

A VIBRANT URBAN DESTINATION FOR WINE & SPIRITS IN SANTA CRUZ • 10 boutique wineries & distillers on the Westside • Walk between tasting rooms

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• Restaurants and shops nearby and in downtown Santa Cruz •Near Natural Bridges State Beach, West Cliff Dr. and Seymour Marine Discovery Center Located off of HWY 1 (Mission Street) Ingalls and Swift Streets & the Old Sash Mill www.surfcityvintners.com

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2018 | GOODTIMES.SC | SANTACRUZ.COM | FOOD & DRINK

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ZEST FOR LIFE Lemon zest delivers a powerful flavor note to both sweet and savory dishes. Meyer lemon rind and zest carries a more botanical, spicy aroma and flavor, reminiscent of bergamot.

But, while all lemons are a vibrant godsend to the culinary arts, enhancing the entire spectrum, from sweet to savory, Reichl’s rejection of the Meyer lemon is shortsighted. First of all, we don’t live in Sorrento—we live in the Meyer lemon mecca of the Central Coast. And while Meyer lemon season should technically be reaching its slow point, the trees in my neighborhood are still dripping with them. And besides, is it not the Meyer’s rind and zest—which have an herbal, spicy aroma and flavor reminiscent of bergamot—that truly set them apart from the less nuanced peels of the regular lemon?

It took many years of living in California to make me appreciate Meyers. A food-loving boyfriend introduced them to me, along with a sincere tutorial on how to shave the zest with a sharp knife and then slice it into ever-so-thin slivers.

He sprinkled these fragrant, bright yellow shavings like confetti over a slice of Kelly’s cherry tart left over from a birthday the night before, and < 22

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served it to me with a mug of cinnamon-dusted coffee. A breakfast in bed for the books.

Thus began my love affair with this rounder, smoother citrus, which now finds its way into packages sent to family on the East Coast, where the only lemons available are roughskinned supermarket stand-ins, shipped hundreds of miles before arriving stickered and waxy at the grocery store.

The humble avocado toast is launched to flavor extremes by flecks of Meyer lemon zest and sea salt flakes. Same, too, for a bowl of sliced peaches, organic strawberries, or any fruit that’s in season.

Even an arugula salad dances in ecstacy when it comes in contact with this sunny flourish.

But there is a lot more you can do with Meyer lemons—and living here, we have to get creative to keep these godly goods from rotting on the ground. The same boyfriend also had a knack for the Shaker lemon pie, which relies on thinly sliced lemon coins—

skin, rind and all—layered and then baked with beaten eggs and sugar.

Culinary enthusiast Lily Stoicheff of GT’s column Love at First Bite, makes limoncello with them, which sounds complicated, ambitious, and so worth the trouble: she suggests drinking it very cold at the end of a big meal, as is the Italian way, or mixing it with sparkling water and ice on a hot summer day. She also preserves lemons in salt.

After a month’s time, she adds the cured rinds to everything from roasted veggies, to soups, stews, grain bowls and salad dressings.

“They pack more of an umami punch than fresh lemon juice, and possess an almost savory tartness and salinity,” says Stoicheff. “In my experience, if you feel like whatever you're cooking is missing something, it’s usually acid. A squeeze of lemon juice can do wonders to elevate a soup, sauce or salad. It also helps mask the bitterness of some vegetables like broccoli and kale.”

And, of course, if all else fails: squeeze those suckers into lemonade.

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Regional Italian Cooking: Cioppino

SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAIN BREWING SUMMER SUPPER SERIES Throughout the summer, Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing is hosting a series of Wednesday beer and dinner pairings with some of the best local restaurants and businesses around. From Bruxo (July 11) to Areperia 831 Venezuelan barbecue (July 18) and chef Brad Briske’s Home restaurant (July 25), there are no bad options. Guests will be served the four-course meal family style in the outside beer garden.

INFO: Times vary. Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing. 402 Ingalls St., Santa Cruz. 425-4900. scmbrew.com/events. $50.

WEDNESDAY 7/11 LOCAL WINE TASTING SAIL Join Bonny Doon Vineyard and O’Neill Yacht Charters in a one-of-a-kind experience sipping your way across the bay. Bonny Doon Vineyard will be pouring a variety of wines paired with a selection of light appetizers

as you indulge in some of the best wines and views on the coast. If you can’t make this one, there are plenty more opportunities all summer long, check online for more information, dates, and other wineries.

INFO: O’Neill Yacht Charters. 275 Lake Ave., Santa Cruz. 6:30 p.m.

818-3645. oneillyachtcharters.com. $44.

REGIONAL ITALIAN COOKING: CIOPPINO Cioppino is a classic Italian-American dish that originated in San Francisco in the late 1800s when many Italian immigrants moved to the North Beach area. The name of the dish comes from ciuppin, which is the name of a classic soup from the Italian region Liguria, similar in flavor to cioppino but with less tomato and different types of seafood.

Join Kristen Valenza in making this traditional seafood stew step-bystep with some of the best local seafood and ingredients around. The dish will be served with garlic bead and paired with an Italian wine.

INFO: 6 p.m.-8:30 p.m. New Leaf Community Market. 1101 Fair Ave., Santa Cruz. 426-1306. newleaf.com. $40/$45.

2018 | GOODTIMES.SC | SANTACRUZ.COM | FOOD & DRINK

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2018 | GOODTIMES.SC | SANTACRUZ.COM | FOOD & DRINK

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SATURDAY 7/14

FRIDAY 7/20

HOP N’ BARLEY FESTIVAL

TACOS AND BEER WITH SIERRA NEVADA BREWERY

With more than 50 regional and local breweries and 12 cider companies pouring two to three styles each, make sure you have a designated driver. A ticket includes access to all of the tastings, a glass, beer games, and two stages of live music.

INFO: 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Skypark Scotts Valley. 361 Kings Village Road, Scotts Valley. hopnbarley.org. $40 tasting, $5 general admission.

Come hungry! Sierra Nevada hails from Chico, and is making the trip down to Santa Cruz to share their passion for bold and unwavering craft beer—plus tacos, of course.

INFO: 6-7:30 p.m. New Leaf Community Market. 1101 Fair Ave., Santa Cruz. 426-1306. newleaf.com. $14.

SUSTAIN SUPPER BENEFIT Join the Homeless Garden Project for a delicious four-course meal on their stunning 9-acre farm. Dinner includes farm tours and wine pairings, live music and a keynote talk with Congressman Jimmy Panetta.

INFO: 4-7:30 p.m. Homeless Garden Project Farm. Shaffer Road at Delaware Avenue. Santa Cruz. homelessgardenproject.org. $150.

SUNDAY 7/15 SECOND ANNUAL FERMENTATION FESTIVAL Beer, bread, wine and pretty much everything delicious that has ever been fermented will be part of this year’s Fermentation Festival. This is the largest yearly gathering of Santa Cruz’s top fermentation freaks, and they are ready to spread the coveted knowledge of how to ferment anything and everything. Proceeds benefit the Community Housing Land Trust of Santa Cruz County, Inc.

INFO: Noon-5 p.m. Skypark Scotts Valley. 361 Kings Village Road, Scotts Valley. fermentfest.org. $20.

TEA TIME IS TIMELESS Join Hidden Peak Teahouse owner David Wright to talk everything tea.

The intimate five-person groups will have the opportunity to drink highquality tea, steep in the discussion, and ask Wright, whose experiential knowledge of tea is extensive, questions.

INFO: Hidden Peak Teahouse. 1541 Pacific Ave. Ste C, Santa Cruz.

423-4200. $30.

WEDNESDAY 7/18 SUSHI MAKING WORKSHOP: CALIFORNIA ROLLS AND INARI Learn how to make a classic California roll and Inari from scratch with certified sushi chef Carlos Mayorga. Attendees will feast on their finished creations at the end of class, and take a roll home for later.

Sake included.

INFO: 6-8 p.m. New Leaf Community Market. 1101 Fair Ave., Santa Cruz. 426-1306. newleaf.com. $35.

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SATURDAY 7/21 AND SUNDAY 7/22 30TH ANNUAL ART & WINE FESTIVAL Enjoy a weekend filled with art, wine and live music. Shop more than 30 local art and food vendors while sipping on some of Santa Cruz’s best wines and eating authentic wood-fired pizza.

INFO: 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Bargetto Winery. 535 N Main St., Soquel. bargetto. com. Free admission, wine tasting with purchase of $10 festival glass.

SATURDAY 7/21 AND SATURDAY 11/17 WINE PASSPORT DAYS Santa Cruz is home to some of the best wineries on the Central Coast.

The quarterly passport is back this month, just in time to start the summer season off with multiple tastings of Santa Cruz’s best wines and celebrate more than 20 years of passport celebration days. The purchase of a Wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains Passport includes tastings at more than 45 participating wineries year-round, and passport celebration days grant admission to exclusive wineries that are not normally open to the public.

INFO: Noon-5 p.m. Select participating wineries. 685-8463. scmwa.com. $65, passports available at participating wineries.

TUESDAY 7/31 KIMCHI WORKSHOP Kimchi is like ultra-fancy sauerkraut, and is rich in probiotics and antioxidants. Despite the recent popularity of fermented foods like kefir and kombucha, kimchi has been a Korean staple for more than 1,500 years. It’s meant to be enjoyed in moderate amounts, so if you are a new kimchi eater, maybe don’t eat the entire jar, or you will really regret it later. These are the kinds of things you can learn at this kimchi workshop. Vegan options are available.

INFO: 6-7:30 p.m. New Leaf Community Market. 1101 Fair Ave., Santa Cruz. 426-1306. newleaf.com/events. $35.

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Santa Cruz Tequila & Taco Music Festival

SATURDAY 8/18

SATURDAY 8/25 AND SUNDAY 8/29

FARMERS MARKET BREAKFAST POP-UP

SANTA CRUZ TEQUILA & TACO MUSIC FESTIVAL

The Santa Cruz Community Farmers Market summer breakfast series is selling out fast this year. The only pop-up left is Glass Jar’s Chef Kendra Baker (The Penny Ice Creamery, Picnic Basket and Assembly). Baker’s menu includes halibut crudo, grilled summer squash and chocolatesauced sticky buns. Get it before it’s gone!

The Tequila & Taco Music Festival is returning to San Lorenzo Park for tequila tasting, gourmet tacos, live music, art, and craft beer. Sample top-shelf tequilas straight on Saturday, or margaritas on Sunday during Más Margaritas. There is no tequila tasting on Sunday.

INFO: Time TBA. Westside Farmers Market. Mission Street Extension and Western Drive, Santa Cruz. santacruzfarmersmarket.org. Advance online registration required. $75.

SUNDAY 8/19 SEVENTH ANNUAL FARM TO FORK BENEFIT DINNER Enjoy the culinary delights of award-winning My Mom’s Mole, featuring locally sourced organic ingredients, including fresh and delicious CASFS-grown produce. Cesario Ruiz founded My Mom’s Mole to “focus on traditional Mexican cuisine using responsibly sourced ingredients.”

Lettuce boats with ceviche, cauliflower cakes with lentils, cactus and kale salad, a choice of chicken, pork or vegetarian entrees, ancient grains and roasted veggies.

INFO: 3-9 p.m. Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems.

305 Ranch View Road, Santa Cruz. 459-3240. specialevents.ucsc.edu/ farmtofork. $100.

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INFO: 11 a.m.-6 p.m. San Lorenzo Park. 137 Dakota St., Santa Cruz. tequilaandtacomusicfestival.com. $10-$60.

SATURDAY 8/8 SIXTH ANNUAL MOLE AND MARIACHI FESTIVAL If you aren’t a mole lover now, you definitely will be after this. The Mole and Mariachi Festival will feature more types of mole than you can count on one hand, and as much mariachi as anyone could ever want.

If and when you run out of mole to try, move on to unlimited tacos, churros, and chavelas for sale. The Mole and Mariachi Festival is a benefit for the nonprofit Friends of Santa Cruz State Parks in support of Santa Cruz Mission State Historic Park.

INFO 11 a.m.- 5 p.m. Santa Cruz Mission State Historic Park, 144 School St., Santa Cruz. thatsmypark.org/events. Free admission, tasting kits $10-$15.

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Santa Cruz County Fair

SATURDAY 9/8 AND SUNDAY 9/9

WEDNESDAY 9/12-SUNDAY 9/16

35TH ANNUAL CAPITOLA ART & WINE FESTIVAL

SANTA CRUZ COUNTY FAIR

The Capitola Art & Wine Festival combines all of the best things—art, wine, music and food—all in Capitola Village overlooking the stunning Monterey Bay. This year’s festival includes more than 150 fine artists and 20 Santa Cruz wineries.

INFO: Saturday 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Capitola Village., Capitola. 475-6522. capitolaartandwine.com. Free.

FRIDAY 9/7-SUNDAY 9/9 37TH ANNUAL SANTA CRUZ GREEK FESTIVAL Get your opa on at the annual Greek Culture and Food Festival. This free event, brought to you by members of Santa Cruz’s Prophet Elias Greek Orthodox Church, features live Greek music and dancing, not to mention scrumptious foods and pastries from the Mediterranean. All along Church Street, between Cedar and Center streets, you’ll find homemade moussaka, pastitsio and kabobs, plus crafts, family activities, and a whole lot of Greek people having a great time.

INFO: Friday 5-10 p.m. Saturday 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday noon-7 p.m.

Prophet Elias Greek Orthodox Church. 223 Church Street, Santa Cruz. livelikeagreek.com. Free.

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From funnel cakes and roller coasters to all-Alaskan pig races and turkey stampedes, everyone loves a good county fair. This year’s talent also features humans like Michael Mezmer, one of the world’s top performing stage hypnotists to hypnotize you into thinking eating 100 hot dogs is a good idea.

INFO: Wednesday-Friday Noon-11 p.m. Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m.10 p.m. Santa Cruz County Fairgrounds. 2601 E. Lake Ave., Watsonville. santacruzcountyfair.com.

SATURDAY 10/27 SANTA CRUZ BEACH BOARDWALK CHILI COOK-OFF Chili is an ultimate comfort food, and what’s more comforting than vats of it as far as the eye can see? Sounds like heaven on Earth. The Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk’s seventh annual chili cook-off features meat and vegetarian chili options from both amateur and professional chefs.

A tasting ticket includes six chili samples, a bowl, spoon, and people’s choice ballot.

INFO: 10 a.m.-4 p.m, tasting begins at 1 p.m. Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, 400 Beach St., Santa Cruz. beachboardwalk.com.

Admission is free, tasting kits $10.

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221 Cathcart Street • Downtown Santa Cruz www.hulastiki.com 2018 | GOODTIMES.SC | SANTACRUZ.COM | FOOD & DRINK

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Compassionate Peopleâ&#x20AC;ŚExceptional Service Located two blocks above the Santa Cruz wharf, beach & boardwalk, Sunshine Villa takes full advantage of its surroundings.

The breathtaking ocean views & the unique personality of the Victorian historic landmark makes Sunshine Villa Blue Harbor Senior Living a beautiful place to call home.

For over 27 years we have provided outstanding service to our residents and our residents families.

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