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07.28.10-08.03.10

THE BOHEMIAN

THE BOHEMIAN

07.28.10-08.03.10

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THE BOHEMIAN

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CWT<XRWT[P]VT[^ ?a^YTRc Love, magic and art each have their place in the classroom

By Charles Churchill

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here is a love and a magic that takes place between my almost 500 preschool art students and myself. When I come into the classroom of a Head Start school, the little children radiate love for me and I return the love. I feel blessed. Onto the middle of a low table I place a large mound of wood scraps that have been donated by such sources as guitar makers and picture framers, and that have then been manicured in my studio to fit tiny hands. I call five students to our table and give each of them an armature. I write the studentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name on the bottom, give the student a small squeeze bottle of Weldbond glue, and we begin. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Everybody watch Diego and me. We are going to make wood sculptures this morning!â&#x20AC;? I put a bit of glue on a piece of wood chosen from the mound, place it on the armature and say, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Put it on, Diego, put it on! OK, letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s put a piece on the other side.â&#x20AC;? We do that. Then Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll say, â&#x20AC;&#x153;OK, Diego, now you choose one. This one? Walnut, very nice. Where do you want it to go? There? Very good. You have a good sense of composition! Here is your glue, and you can use anything on the table to make your sculpture.â&#x20AC;? Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll go on to the next student. Soon, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have all five of them making assemblages. As they work, I continually walk around the table helping. I keep a wet cloth with me to keep the glue off the table and off their little hands. They hold up a hand and say, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Ooh, sticky.â&#x20AC;? Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll place a tiny, brown, soft hand in my big, white, old, scarred one and wipe off the offending glue. Every time I do this, I am overcome with the sweetness of it, the love and the trusting of it. Some children work fast, some are minimalists, some are baroque. Some spend most of the hour at the table. All are individual, all have great talent to be nurtured. Some are troubled, some are very happy, some chatter to me in English and some have no English at all, but we all speak the language of sculpture. The childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s small sculptures are quite substantial, and are usually, if the gluing technique I teach is absorbed by their young minds, not fragile. After a day of drying, their creations are taken home where they are valued. Teachers making home visits will report that a childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 3-D works and reliefs are displayed all over the house. When students complete a sculptured work, I always thank them for their hard work and tell each child,

â&#x20AC;&#x153;What a fine artist you are!â&#x20AC;? Nurturing self-esteem, talent, the art impulse in humanity, as well as fine motor skills and spatial relationships is very important for four- and five-year-old people. They are just beginning to make their way in the world, and this kind of nurturing increases their personal depths. Creativity is a most human form of behavior. Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and adults for that matterâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;shrivel without having a chance of expressing it. Art is a very cerebral business. It is all about making judgments and decisions. Every brush stroke, every placement, is a decision. My little students get to see their decisions and judgment calls manifest before their eyes. Seeing oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s thoughts take shape imparts courage and selfconfidence that can enrich a lifetime of decision-making and judgment calls. All art is self-portrait; living is an art form. All our lives, in our work and the way we choose to live, we create a self-portrait. Sculpture is about form, about shape. A sculpture is a three-dimensional object that can stand alone or be hung on a wall. Abstract sculpture, which is what I teach and share with the Head Start children, doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t represent anything. Its strength is in itself. Thinking in the abstract is wonderful mental calisthenics. When I first began teaching this project seven years ago, I asked the teachers if there was a Spanish word for â&#x20AC;&#x153;sculpture.â&#x20AC;? The closest they could get was a word for â&#x20AC;&#x153;statue.â&#x20AC;? That not really being what we do, I continued to use the word â&#x20AC;&#x153;sculpture,â&#x20AC;? and now the students and the teachers use the word and understand the concept. This is a unique experience for all of us. Tomorrow, I will spend the afternoon in my studio cutting down frame corners for small hands and making armature components that I will glue together for the next group of tiny, fabulous artists. For every hour in the classroom, I prep three hours. To show appreciation and to encourage donations, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve made up a form thanking each business by name and giving Head Startâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nonprofit tax number for those businesses that wish to take their donations off their taxes. And so we are all happy. Charles Churchill is a Sonoma County artist. www.charleschurchillsculptor.com. Open Mic is a weekly feature in the Bohemian. We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 700 words considered for publication, write openmic@bohemian.com.

THE BOHEMIAN

07.28.10-08.03.10

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BC0C8=6C74>1E8>DB Why are the Rivertown folk worried that they are stealing Handcar Regatta quotes? (Letters, July 21). â&#x20AC;&#x153;We are throwing a party we want to attend.â&#x20AC;? That fantastic quote is, um, stating the obvious! I mean, do you want to throw a party you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to attend?

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ÂŞ0HH8H8 How generous of Ari LeVaux to share his broad knowledge of ethnic cuisine and culture with us in â&#x20AC;&#x153;Chewing the Fat,â&#x20AC;? including lore from the Argentinean tribe of â&#x20AC;&#x153;muchilerosâ&#x20AC;? (July 21). Unfortunately, he says â&#x20AC;&#x153;muchileroâ&#x20AC;? is a word for backpack, but thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not true in Argentina or any other country. The Spanish word for backpack is â&#x20AC;&#x153;mochila,â&#x20AC;?

and those who pack them are â&#x20AC;&#x153;mochileros.â&#x20AC;? But donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t worryâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;hardly anyone familiar with Spanish reads the Bohemian, certainly not among your copy readers.

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=>CÂź?;D=:43½ I take issue with some of Ms. Mooreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assertions in, â&#x20AC;&#x153;One State Solution: How About a Democratic State for Israel?â&#x20AC;? (Open Mic, July 7). It is a mischaracterization to say that Israel â&#x20AC;&#x153;occupied that land 62 years agoâ&#x20AC;? or that a European culture was â&#x20AC;&#x153;plunkedâ&#x20AC;? in the middle of Arab land. Part of what makes the struggle between the Jews and the Palestinians so difficult is that both can lay historical claim to the land. Some 2,300 years ago, a group now known as Jews created religious/cultural institutions in part of what we now call Israel/Palestine. Over the millennia, ownership passed back and forth

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between Jews and Arabs as the result of various armed conquests. Furthermore, Israel already is a democracy; it may come as a surprise to some that since 1948, Arabs and other minorities have had the right to vote and have served in the Knesset. The current blockade of Gaza (by the way, imposed by both Egypt and Israel) is a result of the fact that since the Palestinians democratically elected Hamas to lead them in 2007, thousands of rockets have been fired into Israeli towns. I refer readers to Rabbi Michael Lernerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s writings, which describe the need for each side to empathize with the history of the other in order to heal the conflict.

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?402470A<>=HC70=:B Last year, we set a historic precedent at the Harmony Festival in California by offering the first official safe place for medical cannabis patients to medicate at a music festival. And this year, we went further, as we grew into the amazing 420 village, with music, booths, vendors and wonderful hosts. It was a great weekend of activism, patientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rights, education and good company. First off, our most enthusiastic appreciation and thanks go to Antler for the use of his beautiful handmade Moroccan tent, and also the board of directors, staff and volunteers from Peace in Medicine who helped to raise the tent and then staff it throughout the entire four days we were there. A special thank you to all of our hosts and educators: Hana Ahmad, Josiah Barros, Chris Conrad, Steve Hagstrom, Kyle Kushman, Edie Lerman, Jewel Mathieson, Mikki Norris, Mickey Martin, Jon Perri, Ed Rosenthal, Aaron Smith and Barry Wood. And a special thank you to Hap Mapel and Robert Church for spinninâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; us out with great tunes all weekend long. These amazing folks made the Medicine Tent and 420 village possible: Americans for Safe Access, CannBe, Coboo Creations, Cory Reuter Glass, Duke and D & M concessions, Digital Ciggz, Got Turkey? Turkey Bags, Medicann, Marijuana Policy Project, Oaksterdam University, Solar Works, Students for Sensible Drug Policy, Tax Cannabis and 420Medias. A big thank you also to Randi Rembe of the Harmony Festival for helping to make this all happen. I look forward to seeing everyone at the Harvest Dance in November!

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THE BOHEMIAN



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08

07.28.10-08.03.10

THE BOHEMIAN

news for Sonoma, Marin & Napa Counties

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Official Newspaper of Being Drunk in the Middle of the Dayâ&#x20AC;?

/9.@A y 6A44=4B2D;;20B4B4CC;43

2010=08=02D? Former labor secretary Robert Reich argues that the financial reform just signed is largely toothless and encourages Wall Streetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worst practices to continue.

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Why did Goldman get off so easily on such serious charges of fraud? By Robert B. Reich

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n June 15, President Obama pronounced that â&#x20AC;&#x153;because of this [financial reform] bill, the American people will never again be asked to foot the bill for Wall Streetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mistakes.â&#x20AC;? As if to prove him wrong, Goldman Sachs simultaneously announced it had struck a deal with federal prosecutors to pay $550 million to settle federal claims that it misled investors, a sum representing a mere 15 days profit for the firm based on its 2009 earnings. Goldmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s share price immediately jumped 4.3 percent, and Goldman proclaimed its chair and CEO, Lloyd â&#x20AC;&#x153;Goldman is doing Godâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s workâ&#x20AC;? Blankfein, a winner. Financial analysts rushed to affirm a glowing outlook for Goldman stock.

Blankfein, you may recall, was at the meeting in late 2008 when Tim Geithner and Hank Paulson decided to bail out AIG, and thereby deliver through AIG a $13 billion no-strings-attached taxpayer windfall to Goldman. In a world where money is the measure of everything, Blankfeinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s power and influence have grown. Presumably, Goldman can expect more windfalls in future years. Although the financial reform bill may have clipped some of Goldmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wingsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;its lucrative derivative business may require Goldman to jettison its status as a bankholding company and the access to the Fed discount window that comes with itâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the main point is that the Goldman settlement reveals everything thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s weakest about the financial reform bill. The American people will continue to

have to foot the bill for the mistakes of Wall Streetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest banks because the legislation does nothing to diminish the economic and political power of these giants. It does not cap their size. It does not resurrect the GlassSteagall Act that once separated commercial (normal) banking from investment (casino) banking. It does not even link the pay of traders and top executives to long-term performance. In other words, it does nothing to change these banksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; basic structure. And for this reason it gives them an implicit federal insurance policy against failure unavailable to smaller banks, thereby adding to their economic and political power in the future. The bill contains hortatory language but is precariously weak in the details. The so-called Volcker Rule has been watered down and delayed. Blanche &&

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THE BOHEMIAN

07.28.10-08.03.10

09

:216.

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Turns out, actual human thought is still not overrated By Daedalus Howell

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THE BOHEMIAN



ast month, the big brains of the â&#x20AC;&#x153;computational knowledgeâ&#x20AC;? world gathered in central London to explore how â&#x20AC;&#x153;advances in computational technology are unlocking knowledge assets and shaping the future.â&#x20AC;? The event, dryly named the London Computational Knowledge Summit, was underwritten by Wolfram Alpha, which bills itself as a â&#x20AC;&#x153;computational knowledge engine,â&#x20AC;? a tagline so catchy, they trademarked it lest it be stolen. The brainchild of scientist, inventor, author and entrepreneur Stephen Wolfram, the Alpha engine was heralded as a Google-killer upon its debut last year. That was before everyone realized that it was more of a calculator than a search engine. (Those seeking confirmation of this will note the websiteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favicon features an equal sign.) A year later, Google is expanding at a rate exceeding that of the universe itself, while Wolfram Alpha remains something of an online curiosity to anyone whose CV includes the phrase â&#x20AC;&#x153;liberal arts.â&#x20AC;? Wolframâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own rĂŠsumĂŠ, predictably, reads like that of a boy genius just one romantic spurn away from becoming a supervillain. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Beginning in his teenage years,â&#x20AC;? an online bio exhorts, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Wolfram made a number of discoveries in physics and cosmology. In the early 1980s, his now-classic work on cellular automata helped launch the field of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;complexity theory.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;? But wait, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more. After Wolfram grew up, he took the 300-year-old notion that laws based on mathematical equations could be used as a means of describing the natural world and turned it into software for modeling everything under the sun, over the sun and even in the sun. The killer app, known as Mathematica, is used for modeling phenomena in fields as diverse as engineering, biotechnology and finance. So when Wolfram Alpha was launched in the spring of last year, lazy journalists and high school term-paper scribes rejoiced. Finally, the man who gave the world a plug-â&#x20AC;&#x2122;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;-play way to simulate chemical processes or test financial risk models had made a tool for the rest of us! Wolfram Alpha inhaled the webâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collective information into its own massive database and processes answers with an ever-evolving complement of proprietary algorithms borne of Mathematica software. What does this

mean? The truth is out there, and now itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in your iPhone, thanks to the Wolfram Alpha app. Phrases like â&#x20AC;&#x153;knowledge extractionâ&#x20AC;? might roll off the tongue of a character in Christopher Nolanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Inception, but theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not part of the general parlance. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, in part, what Wolfram seeks to fix, if not in name, then in deed. Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s empowering his engineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s users through â&#x20AC;&#x153;natural language processingâ&#x20AC;? or, specifically, by letting them speak in intuitive human terms rather than some sort of computer-speak. Remember the dark ages of the web when Boolean searches were all the rage? Such qualifiers arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t necessary here; however, a fair amount of specificity is, especially when the data entered is partial or idiosyncratic. While most human brains in the Bay Area â&#x20AC;&#x153;knowâ&#x20AC;? that Sonoma, Napa and Marin are counties, Wolfram Alpha only understands them as searchable terms and presents results based on a library of internal algorithms. Upon entering the query â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sonoma, Napa and Marinâ&#x20AC;? for a comparative analysis of the counties, the engine assumed Marin was in Spain. Refining the query by adding â&#x20AC;&#x153;counties in Californiaâ&#x20AC;? yielded a comprehensive breakdown of the counties, and their statistical relationships to one another were presented side-by-side. The amount and range of information is beguiling, in fact overwhelming, which makes the aforementioned â&#x20AC;&#x153;knowledge extractionâ&#x20AC;? a bit of a bear. After a momentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reflection on the data set, interesting observations begin to effervesce. There are nearly three times as many deaths in Sonoma County as in Napa County, though the population of Sonoma County is only double that of Napa County. Why? And whereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the data on Marin County? Perhaps we can infer that no one actually dies in Marin County, which accounts for its comparatively high real estate prices. You see, inasmuch as the engine can slice a near infinite amount of information like a Ginsu blade, it canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t tell you what it means. The ability to infer, to extrapolate and perceive meaningful relationships between the data remains a strictly human occupationâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;at least for now. Or, as one might say, you can lead a geek to Wolfram but you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make him think.

Wolfram Alpha remains something of an online curiosity to anyone whose CV includes the phrase â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;liberal arts.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

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Lincolnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important proposal that derivatives be traded in separate entities that arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t subsidized by commercial deposits has been shrunk and compromised. Customized derivates can remain underground. The consumer protection agency has been lodged in the Fed, whose own consumer division failed miserably to protect consumers last time around. On every important issue, the legislation merely passes on to regulators decisions about how to oversee the big banks and treat them if theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re behaving badly. But if history proves one lesson, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that regulators wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t and canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t. They donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have the resources. They donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have the knowledge. They are staffed by people in their 30s and 40s who are paid a small fraction of what the lawyers working for the banks are paid. Many want and expect better-paying jobs on Wall Street after they leave government, and so are shrink-wrapped in a basic conflict of interest. And the big banksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; lawyers and accountants can run circles around them by threatening protracted litigation. Why do you think Goldman got off so easily from such serious charges of fraud? Reliance on the discretion of regulators rather than structural changes in the banking system plays directly into the hands of the big banks and their executives and traders who contribute mightily to Democratic and Republican campaigns. The flow of money virtually guarantees that regulatory agencies wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be adequately staffed to enforce the law, that penalties for violations wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be overly onerous and that all loopholes (whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a â&#x20AC;&#x153;derivativeâ&#x20AC;?? what has to be listed on exchanges? exactly how much capital must be on hand for which transactions? how are the various forms of predatory lending to be defined?) will be easily stretched in future years. Wall Street lawyers will have a field day. The profitfor-nothing sector of the economyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;law, accounting, financeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;will continue to grow buoyantly. Make no mistake: as long as thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no fundamental change in the structure of Wall Streetâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;as long as the big banks stay as big and are allowed to grow bigger and have every incentive to invent new financial gimmicks with which to bet other peoplesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; moneyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;they will remain too big to fail, and too politically powerful to control. Goldmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s share price, as well as those of JP Morgan Chase, Citicorps, Morgan Stanley and Bank of America, will no doubt soar on the basis of the final bill because their future profits are almost guaranteed. The pay of their executives and traders, and of the managers of hedge funds and private-equity funds they deal with, will likewise accelerate. In the short term, the economy will benefit, at least to the extent financial entrepreneurship is now the apex of American wealth and innovation. But over the longer term we will be much weaker for it. Congress has labored mightily to produce a mountain of legislation that can be called financial reform, but it has produced a molehill relative to the wreckage Wall Street wreaked upon the nation. THE BOHEMIAN

07.28.10-08.03.10

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wonder if Joseph McCarthy is turning in his grave. Maybe just a half-turn, since Marinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Redwood Creek projectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s particular brand of communism advances the liberation of only a waterway and its kinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; no blacklisting of intelligentsia. But he might be suspicious that bright, radical thinkers really are behind the whole thing, a virtual commie plot to overthrow species classism and restore equality to a nine-mile watershed that emerges atop Mt. Tam and winds its way to the sea at Muir Beach. Losers in this brilliant restoration strategy are cars, cows and capitalism, in that order. The Muir Beach parking will be reconfigured, forcing cars to take a back seat; the exotic grasses brought in for the cattle that grazed the area for almost 200 years before getting ousted in 1995 will be removed along with interloping Monterey pines and cypress; and the property-rights imperative that barked on behalf of McCarthyism is not allowed off its leash on this land. Redwood Creek is an all-species watershed, with the humans showing signs of evolving smarts by getting further out of natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s way. During the fall, August through October, careful work will proceed and observers can expect to see the gradual return of wetlands,

sand dunes and an intermittent tidal lagoon, all of which will provide a habitat that should once again sustain populations of coho salmon and steelhead trout. This past winter, about 45 coho came back to spawn in Redwood Creek. A good sign! This four-year ecosystemrepair project, which just finished its first year, seeks to remove obstacles to natural drainage and also repair a damaged section of the California Coastal Trail. Not surprisingly, our cars, cows and capitalism have had a degrading impact on what was once â&#x20AC;&#x153;an expansive 46-acre network of wetlands, dunes and a 13-acre open freshwater lagoon,â&#x20AC;? according to the Conservancy. The impact of our commercial lifestyle â&#x20AC;&#x153;altered the creekâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s alignment, flow and connection to the floodplainâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and affected its ability to support the southernmost continually returning natural population of the endangered coho salmon in western United States.â&#x20AC;? But all of this is changing. The bridge, levee road and beach parking lot will no longer disconnect Redwood Creek from its historic floodplain. Among the benefits of the reconnection are more native plants making more cover for wildlife, less flooding and vastly increased species equality. And if that gives old McCarthyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s corpse a good spin in its grave, then more power to Redwood Creek and its comrades.

Expect to see the gradual return of wetlands, sand dunes and an intermittent tidal lagoon.

ARCADIA:

THE LUXE EDITION W

hile it’s only natural for Bohemian readers to imagine our edit staff perpetually robed in cool silks spun from the stuff of our own mulberry trees, having hourly hand massage/ information updates from the small squad of Russian spies who live under our office, nibbling delicately on hummingbird hearts and sweet black raspberries from our perma-dynamic, bio-organic gardens—where we perform sun salutations each morning draped in little but blood-free diamonds—and swigging J sparkling for breakfast, only the J part is true. Yes, since the glory days last known as 2007, even we—with our outsized salaries, stealth helicopters and shadow army of unpaid ninja interns— have had to draw our cool silks just a bit tighter in around the waist. (Each of us bravely gave up a spot at this year’s Bohemian Grove Owl’s Nest camp. Let the Bush boys get along without us, we selflessly crowed, knowing that they simply can’t.) But darned if we don’t still like a treat now and then. That black raspberries have spiked ridiculously in price doesn’t mean we don’t occasionally eat a bowl of them woozy with Straus cream. It is the small pleasures, we assure our Russian comrades when they emerge from the crawl space, that matter. And it is the small pleasures—the “luxe” moments, places and comestibles— that we salute in this year’s Arcadia issue, our annual food and wine guide devoted to the North Bay’s rural bucolic paradise. The lovely and very forgiving Misty Green is featured on these pages as she wanders the accessible luxury of Healdsburg, from Barndiva to Costeaux Bakery to the H2Hotel to Prohibition to Ravenous. Unless noted, all photos were taken by supremely talented ninja intern Chelsea Lindsey. We hope you enjoy the tiny tipplings that we’ve found so dear. —Gretchen Giles

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Small luxuries, large pleasures Prohibition

The first rule when entertaining out-of-towners in Healdsburg is to take them to the little wine shop in Healdsburg called Prohibition. Show them inside the phone booth in the corner, tell them to lean against the left wall, and watch as they tumble into a hidden speakeasy tucked behind the storefront. Just like that, an instant story for them to tell friends back home! In fact, the concept is so cute that it’s easy to overlook the tasting room’s shortcomings as an authentic 1930s “speakeasy”—i.e., no hard liquor, the flat-screen TVs on the walls, the bartender who couldn’t gruffly bark at overindulging patrons if he tried—and to focus instead on the place’s best feature: the Bubbles LaRue. A Champagne cocktail poured over a raspberry-tinged cube of sugar, the Bubbles LaRue is the other story your visiting relatives can tell townsfolk back in Des Moines. Fruity, tasty and with bubbles going straight to one’s head, it’s not a flask of bathtub gin, that’s for sure. But it’s a quick, fun drink to grab after one of those high-class Healdsburg dinners that leave tourists just wandering around the city, looking for more kicks. 340 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. 707.473.9463.—Gabe Meline

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Climbing over the hills, along the coast and through the woods of western Sonoma Countyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;by bike, on foot or even in a motor vehicleâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;often results in fatigue and always causes a deep and serious hunger that cold, lifeless plastic-wrapped energy bars and mere water never fully satisfies. For me, Barley and Hops holds the carrot at the end of my cycling training stick: the Chris Woods burger. This burger is the most delicious, juicy, makes-your-stomachsing-with-fricken-joy meaty goodness in the world. Cradled carefully inside a soft herbed onion roll, smeared lovingly with Barley and Hops own secret-recipe â&#x20AC;&#x153;Beer-B-Qâ&#x20AC;? sauce and topped with melted smoked cheddar and heavenly slices of applewood smoked baconâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;what could be better? Served with perfectly textured hot, crisp fries and a side of cole slaw, this power-protein delight is even better when washed down with a Lagunitas IPAâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;one of 50 brews availableâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; while seated at the tall bar table next to the breezy open windows immediately to the right of the front door. Tip: Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t eat before an outdoor adventure and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t expect to move quickly or ride a bike more than five miles after this meal. 3688 Bohemian Hwy., Occidental. 707.874.9037.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Dani Burlison

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I eat meat like a ravenous lion in the jungle, but one thing I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stand is restaurants that donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have squat for my vegetarian and vegan friends. How many times can you accompany your meat-eating friends to a restaurant before you get sick to death of eggplant parmigiana, usually the only vegetarian thing on the menu? Or a caesar salad with . . . oh, wait, that has cheese and anchovy in it. And then the inevitable second-guessing comes: â&#x20AC;&#x153;You do eat fish, though, right? You mean you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t eat fish?â&#x20AC;? My friends who definitely donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t eat fish, thank you very much, have especially been drawn to Goji Kitchen. There, in a stripmall location theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re sure to outgrow, the owners serve up Asian-fusion entrĂŠes with fresh and healthful ingredients. No MSG, no microwaves and, much to my friendsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; delight, the only vegan pho in town. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rightâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;all those other places use chicken stock, while Goji uses various herbs and spices, cloves among them, to flavor their pho. Me? I had the five-spice chicken, which is incredible, and anytime I get invited out to dinner here with the vegan crew, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m more than happy to come along and revel in their giddy, relieved excitement. To hell with eggplant parmigiana. 1965 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. 707.523.3888.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;G.M.

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Having been a nurse for 22 years, Beth Thorp lavishes the same amount of passion and TLC on her Nightingale Breads as she did on her former patients. When a

space in Forestville became available, she changed careers and opened a boulangerie, which serves traditional, classic French-style European breads. Named in honor of her former career, all things about this spot exude warmth. A huge wood-burning oven dominates the room, which is painted in brick reds, mellow golds and olive greens. Thorp feeds the oven with oak and madrone wood, using about one cord per month. Her breads are made with all organic flours, seeds and grains, and are either hearth-baked for a crusty finish or in a convection oven for a softer crust. The store does not sell pastries or coffee, and does not bill itself as a cafe. A small refrigerated case holds Redwood Hill cheese, Petaluma Farms butter and Gabriel Farm Asian pear jam, made in Graton. I buy three loaves of the still warm bread, neatly wrapped in brown paper. The mini sourdough baguette, crusty brown on the outside and deliciously, pillowy white on the inside, is left unwrapped, and by the time I reach the car, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gone. 6665 Front St. (Highway 116), Forestville. 707.887.8887.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Suzanne Daly

Mill Valley Beer Works The latest addition to charming central Mill Valleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s night scene is Mill Valley Beer Works. Tucked at the end of downtownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Throckmorton Avenue, the brewery and beer cafe opened its doors two months ago with an eclectic and elaborate list of tasty

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16 ARCADIA ONE GOOD THING

alcoholic and nonalcoholic treats. Along with on-tap pub favorites like Old Speckled Hen and Big Eye IPA, Mill Valley Beer Works offers bottle upon bottle of stouts, Belgian brews, barley wines and lambics, and will be soon adding its own housebrewed thirst-quenchers to the menu. The designated driver in the group can choose from ginger beer and dandelion or burdock soda pop, as well as a variety of more familiar sodas. Consisting of just four simple items, the food menu is an easy document to navigate. There is a pretzel, a mixed crostini, sandwich of the day or, my current obsession, the $15 cheese and charcuterie plate. The choice is quick and painless, leaving time to admire the clean, raw elegance of the unpolished blonde wood bar and tables, low-hanging clear glass light bulbs and, of course, the boyishly cute and charmingly hip bartenders who are happy to share samples of the unusual and fun variety of beers on tap. Noshing on crusty bread, Fiscalini bandaged cheddar and paper-thin, meltin-your mouth Creminelli sopressata with a pint of IPA in hand while old-timey bluegrass weaves through the air and around the plain glass vases bursting with bouquets of dry wheat is an excellent way to spend a weeknight with friends. 173 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. www.millvalleybeerworks.com.—D.B.

There is a little wrinkled man, older than time itself, who works in the kitchen at Stark’s Steakhouse. No one knows his real name, but the cooks call him Cleve—short for Cleveland, where he’s said to have been hired at a top-secret restaurateurs’ convention by chef-owner Mark Stark. Rumors fly about the amount Stark paid for the first-round pick of the curious old little man, and no figure cited so far seems too high for what the little man provides. The little man makes exactly one dish. That dish is bread. You laugh. Churning out his incredible bread in a cast-iron skillet, the little man drizzles garlic herb butter over every fresh-baked little loaf and sends it out to the dining room with full cognizance that he is changing lives. He has been doing this for decades. No one knows why. Some say he killed a man once and he’s been on the lam ever since, perfecting this one small, flawless thing. Every once in a while—not often—he’ll poke his head out to enjoy diners’ reactions: the gigantic eyes, the pointing fingers, the fast, obsessive devouring. “Would you like more bread?” the servers ask. Only the insane say no. 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa. 707.546.5100.—G.M.

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Fiorello’s Gelato

I got a filling this morning at the dentist. The drill reverberated through my skull, my numb cheeks dripped with drool and Sheryl Crow sloshed out of the speakers. In other words, it was torture, but I’m seasoned enough to close my eyes and zone out to my “happy place” easily. This morning, that happy place was Woodhouse Chocolate. With the chemical cherry-flavored gunk against my gums and the rank smoke rising from my mouth, I daydreamed of walking into Woodhouse’s calming storefront, beneath the elegant chandeliers and highceiling crown molding, approaching the display counter and saying, “I’ll have one amaretto almond, please.” Naturally, there are other chocolates at Woodhouse, all made on-site, all hypnotically sublime. Also, picking them out is a truly deluxe experience, with girls behind the glass counters wearing white gloves and delicately assembling an assorted dozen into a Tiffany’s-style aqua-blue box and wrapping it up with a ribbon. But the amaretto almond has an especially lovely, slow-melting wallop. A solitary chocolate-dipped almond, surrounded by amaretto-flavored ganache and housed in a milk chocolate shell, it’s the reason I always try to find parking every time I’m in St. Helena. Yeah, it’s probably the source of the filling I got this morning. But you know what? I’ll gladly go on record to say to the whole world—and even my dentist—that it’s worth it. 1367 Main St., St. Helena. 707.963.8413.—G.M.

The unfortunately higher-than-it-used-tobe number in the “W” column of the patch on the back of my Levi’s 501s can attest to the fact that I love me some ice cream. So much that I forgive the incessant dingdongy version of “The Entertainer” that I hear every afternoon from the ice cream truck. So much that I’ll take long walks to the only store open after 10pm to buy ice cream, even though I know they only have strawberry because I walked there for ice cream last night, too. So much that when my wife got pregnant, I was thrilled—sure, for the baby on the way, but also for the ice cream I’d get to stockpile in the freezer to satiate her prenatal cravings. (She never got them. I stockpiled that shit anyway.) The long and short of it is that I’ve pounded the beat far and wide, and the best ice cream around is not ice cream at all, but gelato—Fiorello’s Gelato, that is, and if former New York City mayor LaGuardia were alive today he’d be proud as hell to have his name attached to such divinity. Made in San Rafael and packaged in a plain white generic tub, the stuff inside is creamy, smooth and not for your fly-by-night ice cream consumer. This is the serious stuff, with a serious price tag. Sometimes I’d drive to Traverso’s just for a pint of vanilla. Then it started popping up at other area markets in the North Bay. Finally, earlier this year, Whole Foods picked it up, and the secret is out. So is my waistline. 3100 Kerner Blvd., San Rafael. 415.459.8004.—G.M.

Stark’s Steakhouse

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ur sweet, plump, briny bivalves are best when theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re freshest, right out of the water at the farms where they are grown from seed. Aficionados of these pearly shellfish no longer have to mind the old rule of abstaining from eating them in the months without the letter r, because cold Pacific waters prevent spawning. Oyster farms also raise varieties that donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t breed, preserving the bright, rich taste. Tomales Bay Oyster Company sells net bags of fresh oysters at its bayfront farm. One dozen or 50 oysters per bag are available in four different sizes, from small to extra large. Tomales Bay accepts cash and local checks and has a convenient ATM. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best to bring an ice chest for transport (ice is available for purchase), and orders over 100 should be called in ahead. Use of picnic tables and barbecues at the waterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edge are on a first-come firstserved basis, making a great place for an impromptu party. No reservations are taken. 15479 Hwy. 1, Marshall. 415.663.1242. Raised in an environmentally friendly manner, Hog Island Oyster Companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bivalves are legendary. Enjoy them at their freshest at the farm in Marshall, but make sure to call for reservations. Parties are limited to 20, and picnic fees are charged per person for use of a picnic table, barbecue, shucking tools and even a shucking lesson for newbies. 20215 Hwy. 1, Marshall. 415.663.9218, ext. 255. Housed in the historic Valley Ford Hotel, Rocker Oysterfellerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s has a comfortable yet hopping atmosphere that welcomes diners of all ages. Twenty-somethings share tables with seniors and small children, enjoying the live music that plays nightly in the bar. Thursday is dollar oyster night, and the small Tomales Bay miyagis slide down easily, dressed with a lemon, honey and jalapeĂąo mignonette. Or try them four ways: with garlic butter, barbecued, with Louisiana Hotsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;our tableâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favoriteâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;or spiked with a red-orange spicy sauce. Lastly, chef Brandon Guentherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature dish tweaks the classic Oyster Rockefeller, substituting arugula for spinach and adding cream cheese, bacon and a splash of Pernot. No wonder itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s standingroom-only in the bar, with people waiting to swoop down on an empty table like a sandpiper pursuing a clam. In the Valley Ford Hotel, 14415 Hwy. 1, Valley Ford. 707.876.1983. (Guenther and his wife, co-owner Shona Campbell have also just opened The Sonoma Coast Fish Bank in the bank building next door, boasting an oyster and fresh fish bar with 10 seats plus picnic tables outside for noshing on fresh seafood, Louisiana Gulf shrimp included.) GTOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Seafood House in downtown Sebastopol serve their Tomales Bay oysters on a bed of ice, predressed with a lemon/orange juice and fresh herb mignonette or a tomato, horseradish, white wine and garlic cocktail sauce. Seating is limited, but patrons are friendly and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mind squeezing in another new friend at the bar. Look for $1 oysters on Tuesdays. 234 S. Main St., Sebastopol. 707.824.9922. Nestled along the banks of the Napa River, the Oxbow Public Marketâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the 40,000-square-foot grand bazaar of all foods local, artisanal and wonderfulâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;brings the coast inland with its Hog Island Oyster Bar. Shucking meets jiving during the Tuesday- and Wednesday-night happy hours, when oysters on the half-shell are just a dollar apiece. 610 First St., Napa. 707.226.6529.

   

                   

        



        

               

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â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Suzanne Daly

THE BOHEMIAN

07.28.10-08.03.10

19

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ARCADIA: OUTDOOR

AL FRESCO EATIN’ A few of our favorite places to dine out of doors

Ravenous Serving in-the-know locals in an old cottage just one block off the town’s main square, Ravenous Cafe & Lounge might not look like much from the outside. And in all the right ways, it isn’t. Thank God. This results in required reservations, as drop-in wait times can be long, but it’s worth it. With hardwood floors, wrought-iron fixtures, live music on weekends and menus elegantly handwritten in Old World cursive, Ravenous is the rare restaurant that remembers to keep the service helpful, the food fancy but the atmosphere distinctly casual—and that goes double for the patio out back. With less than 50 seats inside, the back patio’s the place that really hops on weekends, with a separate bar where cocktails featuring fruit from a nearby

20

07.28.10-08.03.10

THE BOHEMIAN



orchard are served to those Healdsburg twenty-somethings with unexplainable reserves of cash flow and hair products. Paper lanterns, wooden tables, wheelbarrows and lattice complement the conversation, snippets of which are far more interesting than at most Michelin-rated restaurants in the area. There’s an alley down the side to get to the street without rowing through the sea of people inside the restaurant, and patio diners rarely go ignored by the waitstaff. A perfect respite from starched linens and heightened noses, this one. 420 Center St., Healdsburg. 707.431.1302.—Gabe Meline

Barndiva There are people who are glad— thrillingly, actually glad—to live in

Bakersfield. Dear Reader, I should know—I once lived there. I was never thrillingly actually glad about anything the entire time I was there, but I did grudgingly not dislike the Central Valley’s warm summer nights. Healdsburg is, as they say, a different kettle of poisson, a place to be thrilled and actually glad about that also boasts warm summer nights. And one of the best places to enjoy the gentle soot of a soft seasonal dusk is outside in the gravel-crunch goodness of Barndiva’s backyard. There’s a sense of largesse to the place that allows such free fantasies as that it’s actually owned by very wonderful pals who are lucky enough to be carelessly rich and who would love for you to wander in any time you like and take advantage of their splendid yard because they’re in Europe and someone should enjoy it, and certainly their staff would be glad to accommodate you while you visit. The fact that a check is tendered is only a small shock because the food—overseen by chef Ryan Fancher, most recently of Thomas Keller’s Per Se—is so splendid and the cocktails so sublime that it only seems right to ensure that the butler gets his usual tip. It is absolutely guaranteed, Dear Reader, that this is not a fantasy anyone would ever actually have in Bakersfield. 231 Center St., Healdsburg. 707.431.0100.—Gretchen Giles

Gott’s Roadside Tray Gourmet You know a place has gone from its humble smalltown roots to a bona fide tourist trap when there are Hummer limos and Wine Country™ tour buses parked out front and a line of khakishorts-wearing weekenders 20 deep at the ordering window. But at Taylor’s Refresher, which due to some tediously detailed and altogether sad legal wrangling is now called Gott’s Roadside Tray Gourmet, the wisps of Chanel No. 5 in the air and the $10 burgers are made far more bearable and downhome by the picnic-style dining out back. Sure, you can order Napa Valley wine with your bacon cheeseburger. You’ll even pick it up served by a sommelier at the special wine bar. And in St. Helena, you can take that wine out back to where there’s a nice swath of lawn and tables, and inhale a calming, deep breath. Sit facing the trees if you want solitude. Sit facing the burger stand if you want some seriously funny people-watching. Wash your

sweet potato fries down with Pinot Noir and be glad that a place like this still exists—no matter how many people know about it. 933 Main St., St. Helena. 707.963.3486. Also at Oxbow, 644 First St., Napa. 707.224.6900. —G.M.

Panama Hotel & Restaurant Located at the edge of downtown, the Panama is a quick escape for a fun lunch. Spacious yet cozy with a canopy of table umbrellas and well-nurtured greenery that protects diners, the patio oozes old-town sweetness. The odd collection of sun hats hanging along the fence (some of which closely resemble props from the Golden Girls’ green room) are readily available for customers to use in shielding away any summer rays that might creep through. The fun atmosphere created by the unique, inviting quirkiness of the scene, and Kelly, the most outgoing, entertaining and efficient server-bartender in the North Bay, are only surpassed by the fact that the Panama Hotel Restaurant also hosts a “yappy hour” specifically for dog owners. Each week, Tuesday–Friday, from 2pm to 6pm, pet owners can head on down to the Panama’s front porch, get $2 off a glass of wine and feed the pooches free dog treats. Weird, I know. But also totally awesome. 4 Bayview St., San Rafael. 415.457.3993. —Dani Burlison

Fish Everything about Fish is difficult. Even with the reassuring instructions of a Tom-Tom GPS system, it’s a maze of “Is that the turn?” puzzles just getting to this spot adjacent to a small Sausalito marina. Patrons must wait in a permanently long line to place their order. The place only takes cash. And lastly, there’s the worry of grabbing a table. In the winter, the choicest spot is right next to the wood-burning stove; any other time of year, it’s the picnic tables outside. There, the hungry buzz the sated, waiting for the tiniest signal—women reapplying lipstick, men lazily crumpling napkins, toddlers circuiting the deck—that a table might soon open. The pounce is often ugly, a tangle of strollers and back-pushing chairs colliding with long legs eager to step instantly in. Everything about Fish is rewarding. Once one has triumphantly secured a spot on the deck, it finally dawns: I’m in Sausalito. Sitting outside. Eating the best, freshest, most sustainably caught seafood available. Revelation is followed by the nonsensical poetry of pleasure: ceviche, how I love thee, ceviche! Poetry is followed by ease: look at that boat, isn’t the sky blue, gosh the sun feels good, boy this is a nice place, we should come here again, did you have any trouble finding it, neither did I, weren’t we lucky to get this table, isn’t the staff great, man, my lobster roll is buttery. And of course, the final return to humanity: sheesh can’t they wait, we’ll be done in a second, yes this table is taken, let’s get out of here, I can’t wait to come back. 350 Harbor Drive, Sausalito. 415.331.3474.—G.G. THE BOHEMIAN

07.28.10-08.03.10

21

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Up in Healdsburg, YucatĂĄn chef Mateo Granadosâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a kitchen god whose rĂŠsumĂŠ boasts stints at Masas, Rubicon, Mankaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and Dry Creek Kitchen, among othersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;hosts regular â&#x20AC;&#x153;Missing Linkâ&#x20AC;? dinners at the Costeaux Bakery. Sometimes guests just get what Granados is cooking; other times, they have a selection and a menu and everything. Always, they get a great meal at a remarkably affordable price. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Insidersâ&#x20AC;? become such by signing up for monthly alerts: info@mateogranados.com; put â&#x20AC;&#x153;Missing Linkâ&#x20AC;? in the subject head. More swathed in mystery is the monthly soiree that organizers begged us not to name put on way out in the middle of Western Sonoma County Nowhere. Generally held the ďŹ rst Monday of the month, this supper club has a different famous area chef come in to cook at a rented hall. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s live music, outdoor seating overlooking a creek and 10 mere dollars gets you whatever the famous area chef is cooking. Recently, former Cafe St. Rose owner Mark Malicki spent an industrious day roasting a pig for the occasion. The supper club is strictly BYOB, and kids are even welcome. Look for utensils-and-tree ďŹ&#x201A;yers for news of the next one.

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NEWS OF THE FOOD APPEALING AUGUST low Food Russian River kicks off the month of August by celebrating the Gravenstein Apple with a photography exhibit and reception in Sebastopol on Aug 1. The group is bringing the nit and grit of the farm and social awareness of the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Gravâ&#x20AC;? together, hosting an event that showcases professional photos of the fruits and their farmers.

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Gravenstein apples have stolen the spotlight as the hot ticket for Sebastopolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s local produce market ever since the fruitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s acreage fell victim to the expansion of the wine industry. Producers of a former town staple, Gravenstein apple farmers have faced severe economic and cultural problems in the past few years. Apple concentrate produced in China and a poor shelf life are among the many adversaries impeding the fruitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s agricultural feasibility. But the Grav is crabby and ďŹ ghting back, with the help of local supporters, farmers and Slow Food Russian River. Fans of the apple will tout the fruitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tarty goodness, the perfect companion for pies, sauces and juices, at farm markets in Santa Rosa, Petaluma and Healdsburg throughout the month of August. The juicy jubilee will peak on Aug. 14â&#x20AC;&#x201C;15 at the Gravenstein Apple Fair in Sebastopol. But the party starts with photos, farmers, fresh apple samples and food on Apple Season Kickoff Day, Aug 1, at Peter Lowellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurant. 7385 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol. 3pm to 5pm. An RSVP is requested to info@ slowfoodrr.org.

Anna Schuessler

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24

THE BOHEMIAN

07.28.10-08.03.10

23

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DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS CORNERING FUN onoma County is renowned for its multitude of gardens and specialty nurseries, but visitors to Cornerstone Sonoma experience an altered state of reality in this unusual suite of gardens. Although this could be attributed to the ďŹ ne wines available at Cornerstoneâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Roshambo, the Grange Sonoma Tasting Room Collective, and Larson Family Wines all have tasting rooms on siteâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;it is the innovative work of internationally renowned landscape architects and designers that induces these visions. Visitors and even leashed pets are welcome to wander among the 20-plus avant-garde gardens that span nine acres in the midst of vineyards.

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At the entrance, a giant indigo Adirondack chair, Ă  la Lily Tomlin, encourages both adults and children to sit and play awhile. A large tree covered in blue balls tests conventional views of reality, and hundreds of pink plastic daisy whirligigs line up to catch the wind. Giant birdhouses, Monetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lily pond, and a subterranean plot tweaks the mind and stimulates the imagination. After hours spent roaming the grounds, hungry picnickers can gather a feast of seasonal menu items like salads, soups, artisan sandwiches and desserts made from locally grown ingredients from Sage Fine Food and Provisions, and eat on the patio in the courtyard. Peruse the cutting-edge design shops to ďŹ nd that one special thing to enhance the home or garden. The gardens change periodically, so go down the rabbit hole every so often, and see what might pop up next time. Cornerstone Sonoma, 23570 Arnold Drive, (Hwy. 121), Sonoma. 707.933.3010. Suzanne Daly

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ARCADIA: STREET

CHEESE EXPERTISE John Ash and cohorts launch gourmet grilled cheese street food

J

ohn Ash owes his illustrious culinary career to his grandmother’s grilled cheese sandwich. “It was probably the first memorable food that I had. Mine was done on Wonder Bread with Velveeta or something like that, but it’s one of those things you can eat,” says the chef, cookbook author, culinary teacher and owner of the nationally acclaimed Santa Rosa restaurant that bears his name. It’s a scorching July evening on the Windsor Town Green, and

farmers market booths crowd either side of the adjacent street. Despite the heat, Ash toils away next to the griddle in his Hot Cheese booth, forever sophisticated in a white button-up shirt. An ’80s cover band belts “I Love Rock ’n’ Roll” as he leaves the booth for a picnic table in the shade where he sits down to discuss street food, the culinary business and why everyone loves a good sandwich. Ash remembers his grandmother teaching him how to prepare grilled

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THE BOHEMIAN

07.28.10-08.03.10

25

25 ARCADIA STREET FOOD

cheese. Growing up, he experimented with endless variations on the traditional grilled cheese, adding fruits like sliced apples and bananas, and even slathering the bread with peanut butter. “Food memories somehow get implanted, and it’s probably a principal reason why I ended up in the food business,” Ash says. “It’s just so magical.” In collaboration with SRJC culinary instructor Mei Ibach and Bruce Riezenman, the executive chef behind Park Avenue Catering Co., Ash pioneers gourmet grilled cheese as street food at Hot Cheese, a regular booth at the Windsor farmers market since the June start of the summer season. When Ibach pitched the idea of street food to Ash and Riezenman, Ash was adamant about doing grilled cheese. “I think grilled cheese is one of those nostalgic foods that we all grew up with. It just resonates,” he says, adding, “We all want our mom still here making food for us.” But if not Mom, why not John Ash? He takes great care to procure only the finest local ingredients for his exemplary sandwich line. When asked what kind of cheese he uses in the sandwiches, he hesitates. “I can’t tell you, or else I’d have to kill you,” he laughs. “We fooled around with it for quite a while. At first we were just going





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07.28.10-08.03.10

THE BOHEMIAN



to do slices of something really great that we liked. But we found it didn’t melt, it wasn’t as gooey, stringy and all that stuff. But what we’re doing for the classic grilled cheese sandwich is a mixture of six different Sonoma County artisan cheeses that we grate separately.” His only hint? Most of them come from Petaluma’s Spring Hill Cheese Co. Hot Cheese orders its bread custommade from Full Circle Baking Company in Penngrove. “We like them so much because they’re organic,” Ash says. “They grind their own grains from scratch. To grind fresh grains and then make bread out of it, it’s so much better. It just has so much more flavor. And what we’re looking for in the sandwiches is a nice crust, a nice texture to it and a nice body so that it holds together and it gets very crispy and delicious.” Ash talks about bread like a wine connoisseur analyzes his drink. Even the butter has received the utmost care and attention. “We use clarified butter, and the reason for doing that is you take all the milk solids out of it and then it doesn’t burn, especially if you’re trying to do several at a time and they’re in various stages of cooking,” Ash explains. “It’s a tradition, interestingly, that shows up in other cultures, most specifically in Indian cooking. In India, it’s called ghee.” On this particular evening, Hot Cheese’s menu board describes four distinct versions

was burnt. I was trying it last week, and I was making a bunch.â&#x20AC;? After about only a month of business, Ash is considering a tent-flip level move in business expansion. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I read this biography of the family that started In-N-Out Burger, which is still family owned, and it was one of those little â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Aha!â&#x20AC;&#x2122; moments where I just thought, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;There you go,â&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;? he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;They just focused on burgers. And theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been phenomenally successful because theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve done things that are really quality level. We could do that. This could be the beginning of Hot Cheese stands across the country.â&#x20AC;? No one would complain. Returning customers line up to order their favorites or try a new variation. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the best Reuben youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re ever gonna get, pal,â&#x20AC;? says Jim Costa, manager of Toad Hollow Vineyardsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; tasting room, to a friend eyeing the sandwich stand. When asked how often he frequents the booth, Costa says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Oh God, every week. Last time I got two in one day. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re fresh, original and the staff is really friendly.â&#x20AC;? Kathy, another repeat customer, comes back not only for the quality ingredients but also for the Swiss cheese childhood memories the sandwiches evoke. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I live alone, so I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make them for myself,â&#x20AC;? she says before telling Ibach that she overheard someone at the other end of the market asking, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Where are the grilled-cheese people?â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re hot!â&#x20AC;? Ibach enthuses. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have flavor and attitude.â&#x20AC;? Personality is exactly what Ash and Ibach love most about street food. â&#x20AC;&#x153;If you think about cities, especially older cities in the Midwest or on the East Coast, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all they are: bunches of little food stands. It becomes a real way of identifying a community,â&#x20AC;? Ash says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Here we are in the wine country, for Godâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sake. This is supposed to be the ground zero for all things food and wine. It should be happening more.â&#x20AC;? Ash isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the only renowned chef joining the street-food foray. â&#x20AC;&#x153;A lot of chefs are moving out of fancy-schmancy restaurants and just doing basically street food,â&#x20AC;? he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I think it has a lot to do with the economy. People arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t spending like they used to, either because they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have it or just because theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re being very cautious. There has been a profound change in the food world.â&#x20AC;? Earlier, he explains the street-food allure. â&#x20AC;&#x153;People are in a different place than when they come to a white tablecloth restaurant,â&#x20AC;? he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re just looking to have fun.â&#x20AC;? According to Ash, the communal festivity of a street market and its wares not only entertains residents but defines local culture. When people travel, â&#x20AC;&#x153;theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re really enjoying indigenous foods. Street food is the most direct connection you can get. The only more direct way you could connect with regional food is to go to someoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s home. This is the next best thing.â&#x20AC;? Hot Cheese grills every Thursday at the Windsor Certified Farmers Market through Aug. 26. Windsor Town Green. 5pm to 8pm. They also cook at the Gravenstein Apple Fair, Ragle Ranch Park. 500 Ragle Road, Sebastopol. Saturdayâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sunday, Aug. 14â&#x20AC;&#x201C;15. www.thebestgrilledcheese.com. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Caroline Osborn

WORDS ON THE STREET Other flavors to favor

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of a grilled cheese sandwich. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the classic grilled cheese ($7) with the signature blend of six artisan cheeses between two organic pieces of bread, golden with a warm sheen of butter. The Reuben ($9) preserves the same cheesy goodness as the classic but also boasts pastrami and sauerkraut. As the two top sellers, these options remain consistently available. The other two offerings change each week. Ever the fount of abundant creativity, Ash recalls, â&#x20AC;&#x153;We actually started out with too many [variations]. We decided that for the ease of people ordering having four is about the right number, but we have a couple of them change each week so people will come back and say, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Oh, what do you have this week?â&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;? The current answer to the question is a fresh tomato and bacon sandwich ($9), which this writer opts for, and a novel sweet grilled cheese ($6), complete with strawberry, whipped cream, apricot preserve and the chocolate-hazelnut spread Nutella on egg breadâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;with cream cheese and a bit of the secret cheese blend, of course. Sandwiches are served with a bowl of spiced tomato soup, a cup of brilliant green and thinly sliced pickled zucchini and a serving of cole slaw with an Asian twist. Ibach unofficially works the boothâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s public outreach. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Hot Cheese! The best grilled cheese!â&#x20AC;? she yells to passersby. Born and raised in Singapore, Ibach tasted her first grilled cheese at a Western-style Singaporean restaurant in her 20s. Her fond childhood food memories revolve around noodle dishes, Singaporeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s grilled cheese correlate. She moved to America to become a movie star but eventually changed her mind, enrolled in culinary school and began a career as a chef. Although her formative years in Asia preclude her from nostalgic reminiscence about the staple American comfort food, her emotional history with street fairs inexorably tie her to the passion of the project. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I grew up eating street food in Malaysia and Singapore,â&#x20AC;? she says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The street food is phenomenal. This is what we do as soon as the sun sets. Everybody would set out their booths and just sell one thing. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d just cruise around and eat all night long. I always wanted to do this street-food thing.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;? Ash interjects: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s really interestingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Mei reminded us of this, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a terrible generalization, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s actually trueâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;that Asians are often lactoseintolerant, so cheese is not a big part of their growing-up experience. So the fact that sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s joined usâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Against all odds!â&#x20AC;? Ibach crows, raising both fists in triumph. Both chefs erupt with laughter. â&#x20AC;&#x153;If I can eat grilled cheese, anybody can eat grilled cheese!â&#x20AC;? This sense of playfulness permeates the tent. Ian â&#x20AC;&#x153;the Flipperâ&#x20AC;? Christopher works the griddle with culinary precision and fancy moves. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m learning how to flip the sandwich up and over the [structural bar of the] tent,â&#x20AC;? he says with a twinkle in his eye. He overshoots and the sandwich smashes on the concrete. Shrugging it off, he says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;It

Delicias Elenita Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d been severely under the weatherâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;not sleeping much, not eating much. A stomach bug had laid me out, and all Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d had to eat were two bowls of cereal, all day. The world had that hazy, grim patina that comes from being sick. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d been miserable. Delicias Elenita turned things around. Determined to feel better after a night in the East Bay, I drove home wishing with all my might that Santa Rosaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best taco truck would still be open at 1:15am. Blessedly, it was. I ordered three grilled chicken tacos ($1.25 each)â&#x20AC;&#x201D;nothing more, nothing lessâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and when they arrived, like that moment in the hospital when the quiet alarm lets you know you can hit the button for more morphine, I looked up at the full moon and thanked the universe. Sebastopol Road and West Avenue, Santa Rosa. No phone. Street-Eatz Mobile Kitchen It used to be that food trucks roamed listlessly without schedule, their location and menu ever changing, stopping at building sites and industrial districts with a beckoning honk. In the last few years, though, food truck schedules have grown far more dependable. Some even have websites to update their stops. Still others, like Street-Eatz Mobile Kitchen, announce their daily service spots on Facebook and Twitter. Hitting up industrial zones from the airport to Dutton Avenue to Southwest Santa Rosa, Street-Eatz can also be found Thursdays at Revolution Moto on College Avenue and downtown Santa Rosa at the Wednesday Night Marketâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and you can even pre-order your meal from their site for pick-up. Co-owned by Alma Mendez, from the popular La Texanita restaurant, with founder Jill Dorman, Street-Eatz offers a varied and rather vegetarian-friendly menuâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; coconut curry vegetables, a Mediterranean plate, crunchy agedashi tofu with ginger and onions. An eight-inch foil round of Japanese soba noodles in Asian dressing with vegetables and tofu runs $6.50. Meat eaters can indulge in the likes of pulled-pork sandwiches, chicken pesto sandwiches and carne asada fries, too. With street food set to take off, Street-Eatz leads the way. Various locations in Santa Rosa. www.street-eatz.com. Rosso Pizzeria Cart OK, so you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get to enjoy the Sheryl Chapman art, the soccer on the TV above the wine bar, the masterly presence of owner John Franchetti throwing dough or those totally insane modern sinks in the bathrooms. But at Rosso Pizzeriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new cartâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a blazingly hot stone oven on wheelsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll get what truly matters, the pizza! Made with some sort of outer-space, reverse-osmosis flour strategy, Rossoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s thin-crust pizzas come out of the small, red, mobile unit with the same taste and texture as when they emerge from the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oven. Personal pizzas run about $8â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$10, and though thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s obviously not as many options as in the restaurant, a quick pizza margherita on the go with that crazy, chewy crust is a nice respite from the grilled-â&#x20AC;&#x2122;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;-fried fare at most other carts. Catch them on Wednesdays and Saturdays at the Santa Rosa farmers market at the Vets Building on Maple Avenue, and at the Wednesday Night Market in downtown Santa Rosa. Brick and mortar: 53 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa. 707.544.3221. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Gabe Meline THE BOHEMIAN

07.28.10-08.03.10

27

ARCADIA: WINES

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30

SWIRL SUMMER SIPS ure, plucked ice-cold from the ice chest, that “two-buck” bottle may suffice at the barbecue on a hot summer afternoon. Price, after all, is a valid consideration. But what about the party-goer or reception host who wants to add a little local flavor to the equation?

S

In search of a sure-fire, cheap-and-cheerful crowdpleaser, we rounded up some locally produced Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays priced under $20, and instructed a squirrelly group of Bohemian staffers to visualize being somewhere fun in the sun. As the fog slowly lifted, so did our spirits. The following were blind-tasted and rated on a scale of 1 to 5. Ferrari-Carano 2009 Sonoma County Fumé Blanc ($15) The clear favorite of the tasting was found to have bright, floral aromas with gooseberry, lemongrass, elder flower and citrus blossom. Partly fermented in older barrels, this balanced and refreshing Fumé remains light, lively and crisp. A can’t-go-wrong standby. Rating: 4. Geyser Peak 2008 California Sauvignon Blanc ($13) Lime, pomelo, Eureka lemon: clearly we’re getting citrus here, with a tart, sourgrass finish that sizzled like sparkling wine. Rating: 3.5. Rodney Strong 2009 Northern Sonoma Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Charlotte’s Home ($13.50) An initial charcoal aroma did not dissuade generally favorable impressions, which ranged from “fine for a barbecue, minerally, marine, grapefruit and apple” to “fruit, honey, lavender, grass and American Spirit smokes.” Rating: 3.25. Buena Vista 2007 Carneros Chardonnay ($19) Comfortably familiar for many guests, Chardonnay can be unappealingly rich when the heat is close. Opinion split between fans and detractors: “Tropical, summer fruit, creamy finish” vs. “burnt wood, nacho popcorn.” A “porch-swing sipper” in any case. Rating: 3.2.

PRESENTED BY

Angeline 2009 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($14) Strong floral aromas, hibiscus, pine resin, pineapple and cat pee head up this New Zealand–style Blanc. Rating: 3.1. Robert Mondavi 2008 Napa Valley Fumé Blanc ($20) It’s sulfurous aroma was not promising, but the inoffensive, balanced palate made for a “safety check” or “everyday, easy festival wine.” Rating: 2.8. Courtney Benham 2009 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($16) “Refreshing, clean and approachable, uncomplicated,” with grassy, feline-influencers and honeydew melon, this indifferently received Blanc might do best where food is involved. Rating: 2.6. Quivira 2009 Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Fig Tree Vineyard ($18) Perhaps suffering from subtlety, its perfume of fog, earth and cashew nut just did not stand out from the crowd. Eminently balanced, light in aroma and flavor, but a notch down from the enticing ’08. Rating: 2.5. Pedroncelli 2009 Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc, East Side Vineyards ($12) Lean and crisp, with generic varietal character, nothing bad was said; one taster’s enigmatic note of “Legos” flavor leaves much to the imagination. Rating: 2.5.

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Gloria Ferrer 2007 Carneros Estate Chardonnay ($18) Burnt toast, Meyer lemon with a little baked apple. One poetic taster half-praised it as “fruity, but like a Thomas Kinkade without the light.” Rating: 2.4. James Knight

THE BOHEMIAN

07.28.10-08.03.10

29

29 ARCADIA WINERIES

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DRINK WINE, SAVE BIRDS ounded in 2008 by Sonoma County resident Nick Papadopoulos, Burning Hawk Wine is a philanthropic collaboration with Windsor Vineyards and serves to raise funds and awareness about the trials and tribulations of our feathered friends. After a hawk set accidentally ablaze while perched atop a high-voltage power pole above a vineyard fell and started a ďŹ re in the dry grass below in May 2008, questions and concerns arose about the impact of our energy system on wildlife.

F

As with any political issue or environmentalconservation challenge, there are no readily available or easy solutions. Burning Hawk, however, came up with a clever way for do-gooders to support local businesses while getting their buzz on. â&#x20AC;&#x153;When people in the North Bay buy our wine,â&#x20AC;? says Burning Hawk program manager Scott Johnson, â&#x20AC;&#x153;10 percent of the funds go directly back into our community to support local wildlife-rescue programs. And likewise, if someone in Texas buys a case of our wine, the funds generated go into theirr local wildlife rescue programs.â&#x20AC;? To purchase Burning Hawkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Napa Valley Red and Alexander Valley Chardonnay, visit www.burninghawk.com.

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30

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and an alchemist lead, and he just might make it gold. Hand him hops and barley, and thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no knowing what heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll do. So it goes at some of the North Bayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s better breweries, where weird beers of chocolate, fruits, booze barrels and bugs have boosted the bar for creative beer-making since a decade ago, when the IPA was craft beerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hottest ticket. At Iron Springs Pub and Brewery (765 Center Blvd., Fairfax; 415.485.1005), brewer Christian Kazakoff indulges in his work particularly during Novemberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chocolate beer and Februaryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s barrel-aged beer themes, but the rest of the calendar is still a playground. Kazakoffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest whoppinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; concoction is an oak-aged rye beer brewed with 2009 Fuyu persimmons and infected with brettanomyces yeast for a funky horse-hair ďŹ&#x201A;avor. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Rye the Funk Not?â&#x20AC;? is the name of the beer, of which there may beâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;count â&#x20AC;&#x2122;em on your hands and feetâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;just 20 bottles left as we speak. The beer is a precarious balancing act of the sour, the bitter and the creamy. Another bizarrely brewed beer from Iron Springs is an oatmeal stout made with Bing cherries and now residing in whiskey barrels, awaiting a November release. Lagunitas Brewing Company (1280 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma; 707.778.8776) has interesting things on draft at its east Petaluma tap room. Recently, for example, several kegs malfunctioned and left the IPA inside dead ďŹ&#x201A;at. So brewer Jeremy Marshall dabbled and threw in a sack of habaĂąero peppers. The beer is on tap now. Chase it with some ice water or buttermilk. Also watch for an imperial stout aged on almonds and coconut, the latest manifestation in an ongoing candy bar theme, this one being Marshallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Almond Joy interpretation. And while Iron Springsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Kazakoff picked cherries this summer, Marshallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been playing with peaches, and about to bottom out is a tapped keg of Lilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Sumpinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fuzzy, the Lagunitas wheat beer carbonated with fresh, sliced freestones. Elsewhere around the region, the tap room draft lists are long and alluring. Mouth-scorching bitterness is only par for the course today, and almost every brewery offers a super-stout on steroids or a double-digit barleywine. For the meek among us, the pale ale kegs will never run dry, but for others itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the candy bar beers, the fruit beers and the barreled beers that make life worth drinking. Alastair Bland

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07.28.10-08.03.10

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est of Belgium B e h T

CHANGE STARTS WITH US.

Supreme Quality and Worth!

ew for Summer

Rodney Strong Vineyards is committed to reduce, conserve and protect to insure a healthy planet. We know change starts with us and we hope all who enjoy our wines will embrace this philosophy. • Carbon Neutral • Solar Power • Fish Friendly Farming® • Sustainably Farmed Take the RSV GreenLight Pledge to swap just one ordinary light bulb for an energy-efficient CFL bulb, and help us protect the environment. Place Matters. Sonoma County, California Learn more and take Pledge at www.rodneystrong.com

Special Occasion Cakes & Desserts Custom Gift Baskets Fresh Fruit & Champagne Cakes Opening Soon in Calistoga 1353 Lincoln Aveue 707.942.1443

7225 HEALDSBURG AVE SEBASTOPOL • 707-829-8101 1445 TOWN & COUNTRY DR SANTA ROSA • 707-527-7654

32

07.28.10-08.03.10

THE BOHEMIAN

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ARCADIA: COUNTER SERVICE

GOING IT ALONE

Other solo dining spots we love Azzuro Pizzeria E Enoteca Look hon, if it’s really over, and if this is what you’re doing to me, then I only ask you to take me out one last time. OK? Yeah, to our place. Pizza Azzuro. Except we’re not going to sit together. You’re gonna sit at a table all by yourself, over in the corner near the window, and I’m gonna sit up at the counter. And you’ll get to see just what it is you’re giving up. That cook back near the ovens you hate who always flirts with me? I’ll be flirting back. Majorly. That tall, deep-voiced bike-frame builder who keeps trying to buy me a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon? I’ll take him up on it. Hell, we’ll split a bottle. You’ll be the loser in the corner, shoveling that rigatoni you love down your mouth and washing it down straight to your ever-increasing gut with a beer, watching me, laughing, drinking and pouring it on for the other single people at the bustling counter over salumi and bruschetta. Graphic designers from Seattle. Creative marketers from the Mission. Shit, I’ll even settle next to a CPA from Palo Alto if it’ll make you see what you’re leaving. Remember the first time you took me there? And we talked about the future? Over that amazing mushroom pizza that you hated and almost sent back because you’re such a jerk? Look at your future now, hon. Watch it all unfold. 1260 Main St., Napa. 707.255.5552.

El Coqui

SINGLE SERVING

Dining alone requires an odd arsenal of skills and a willingness to laugh

I

am a big grownup lady. Big grownup ladies do things by themselves. Big grownup ladies can do all of the things that couples can do, that groups of friends can do, that people who unreasonably love pets enough to take them out in public can do. It’s just that sometimes they do them alone. And so it was that dinnertime came and this grownup lady found herself to be hungry. Hungry not only for dinner itself, but hungry to try a new restaurant, to have a new experience. And so it was that on a recent Wednesday evening at dinnertime, this grownup lady went out to eat all alone, without the sulky comfort of a book or magazine, iPhone app or knitting project. Chewing while looking thoughtfully out into space, sipping wine while pretending to consider the world’s knotty problems and merely sitting with hands politely in lap are difficult talents not easily won.

But they’re worth wresting, particularly within the tiny, cheerful confines of Scopa, the Italian restaurant opened in Healdsburg some two years ago smack between John & Zeke’s and Bistro Ralph. Big breath, and in I went without a reservation. A tiny deuce the width of my shoulders was amazingly empty—Yelp is lousy with reports of people waiting two hours here for a table—and I squeezed in, hands politely in lap, only to learn that it was winemaker night. (“Winemaker night” means that the beleagured individual is actually there, pouring samples of his or her wine while trying to make enough unstilted friendly conversation with strangers so as to encourage them to purchase said wine, tell all of their friends about it and order it by the massive caseload while not actually being so overbearing as to ruin their meal.) Goll dang winemaker night. But sipping wine while pretending to consider all of the world’s knotty problems was on my agenda,

When Sol Food this restaurant Sol Food opened Sol Food last year, Sol Food everyone Sol Food compared Sol Food it to a Sol Food certain San Rafael Sol Food eatery that Sol Food happened to also Sol Food serve Puerto Rican Sol Food cuisine. That’s just about every conversation I’ve ever had about Santa Rosa’s El Coqui, littered with constant comparisons to that other Puerto Rican institution in San Rafael. But after a year, El Coqui has grown into its own, and especially as a place to enjoy alone. Best yet for solitary diners, it’s busy with plenty of distractions. Small tables hugging the full-length front windows are choice for people-watching on the sidewalk, and sitting at the counter only means you’re closer to another Costa Rican Imperial cerveza, por favor. Take in the Latin music playing, the photos of famous Puerto Ricans. Order up some plantains and empanadas galore, with avocado salsa. Let the ceiling fans cool your overworked soul. And be glad that you don’t have to drive all the way to San Rafael anymore just for fine Puerto Rican cuisine. 400 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. 707.542.8868.

—Gabe Meline

and I had an empty chair. Please sit, handsome winemaker with no wedding ring. Sit and tell me about your wonderful, fascinating wine so that I might buy some. He did. I did. As the evening progressed, he sat again to sell his fine beverage to the people on my left. And then again to the people on my right. I grew slightly fond of the sight of his earnest face in profile as he extolled the benefits of Barbera. My radicchio salad arrived. The austere table held neither salt nor pepper, and the plate frankly needed their companionship. I whispered to the waiter, “Um, I don’t want Chef to come after me with a knife, but may I please have some salt and pepper?” He nodded curtly and I sat back, solving knotty problems through the miracle of Barbera. I chewed another piece of unsalted radicchio, looking thoughtfully out into space. I glanced up. There was Chef, bearing my condiments. He also had a really large knife. Things slid slightly sideways after that.

My steaming bowl of house-made tagliatelle pasta with wild boar Bolognese was enthusiastically sampled by the couple to my right. They pronounced it excellent. So did I. They were upset with vintner Dario Sattui and thought I should be too. (After the condiment escapade, I was too smart to actually argue about the exorbitant costs of firefighter-pension funding.) Dessert arrived, a panna cotta with berries that was such a sensuous snuggle of cream on the tongue that I laughed out loud. I laughed out loud, seated by myself all alone, with nary a book or a magazine or an iPhone app or a knitting project. I made all that noise, a big grownup lady. My hands in the air, knotty problems and fake contemplation thoroughly abandoned, I laughed out loud. Scopa, 109-A Plaza St., Healdsburg. 707.433.5282. —Gretchen Giles

THE BOHEMIAN

07.28.10-08.03.10

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B?>>=10A0CC747!7

ARCADIA

Howard and Bob Simontachiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wood oven at Brick and Bottle turns out plenty of palatable pies to carve. Offering comfortable food with friendly tableside service, this eatery is a mighty brick house. 55 Tamal Vista Blvd., Corte Madera. 415.924.3366. . . At Francoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ristorante, anyone who walks through the door is instantly related. Francoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is the place to come home to, especially when the late night munchies hit. Open Friday and Saturday nights from 11:30pm to 3am for pizza by the slice. 505 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. 707.523.4800. . . . From the house to the garage, to Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Appart Resto, made in full by Olivier Souvestre and Bruno Denis, the very same duo who graced Sausalito with Le Garage. Featuring fine French dishes, Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Appart brings the simplicity and subtlety of French food to Marin. 636 San Anselmo Ave., San Anselmo. 415.256.9884. . . . Subtlety is not the name of the game for Whipper Snapper in San Rafael, where spunky Caribbean and Spanish sabor pairs with dramatic dĂŠcor. 1613 Fourth St., San Rafael. 415.256.1818. . . . Meanwhile, Bistro M indulges the ironic eye that appreciates the fashion faux pas of wine country cyclists. The outdoor patio affords magnificent views of these tight, neon wonders, the perfect contrast to simple, elegant fare. 610 McClelland Drive, Windsor. 707.838.3118. . . . Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the lovechild of to-go lunches and aesthetically pleasing edibles? Bento boxes at Sushi 69, where an obsession with fresh satisfies the appetite for surf. The restaurant also offers an extensive beer and sake selection to rival any wine list. 69 Center Blvd., San Anselmo. 415.459.6969. . . . NewZ is riding on a lot of waves, combining simple and elegant California cuisine with traditional French and Italian classics. Edgy wines and lighter brunch fare make it a place for both the new and old. 282 Bon Air Center, Greenbrae. 415.925.4370. . . . Sure, the wines at NewZ are edgy, but theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re nothing like the gleam on Iron Chef Masaharu Morimotoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s santoku knife. Brimming with celebrity lore, Morimoto promises to roll out the red carpet. 610 Main St., Napa. 707.252.1600. . . . Stroll down the street and go from finely sliced fish at Morimotoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to some finely sliced cured meats at Oenotri. Authentic Neopolitan pizzas and a dizzying variety of salumi paired with wines from Southern Italy make this simple but elegant eatery a favorite. 1425 First St., Napa. 707.252.1022. . . . Sure, the North Bay boasts a lot of great international cuisines. But American cuisine canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be beat, especially since itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s really got it all. For culinary diversity, head to Graceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Table, where tuna Niçoise is served next to tamales and hanger steak frites plays neighbor to Creole mussels. 1400 Second St., Napa. 707.226.6200. . . .

NEW & NOTABLE Sharpen your skills and whet your appetite by eating somewhere new

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at them, Boon might be the â&#x20AC;&#x153;itâ&#x20AC;? feeding ground. The complement to the boon hotel + spa brings a simple, fresh menu of artisan sandwiches and tasty, local main dishes to the more intrepid interlopers of the wine country. 16248 Main St., Guerneville. 707.869.0780. . . . Just upstream from Boon is Healdsburgâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Spoonbar, nestled neatly inside the brandnew H2H, the townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eco-sensible tourist destination. Featuring artisan cocktails prepared by mixologist Scott Beattie, one can sip and nibble near the plinking water wall of spoons created by sculptor Ned Kahn. Chef Rudy Mihalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lineup of Mediterranean-inspired skewers and flat breads offer sustenance to those who have traveled far and wide to enjoy the barâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s generous natural lighting and nature-made ambiance. 219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. 707.433.7222. . . . Who needs spoons when you can wield a pizza cutter? Scott

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8 Academy Award Noms Including â&#x20AC;&#x153;A Ripping Good Thriller!â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; SONS Hollywood Reporter PRODIGAL (1:00) 3:10 7:30 R Best Picture, Best5:20 Actor & Millennium Best9:40 Director! The(2:20) Second Installment Of9:10 The Trilogy 9:10 NR No Show Tue or Thu

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Haunting and Hypnotic!â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Rolling Stone THE GIRL(1:30) WHO PLAYED WITH FIRE â&#x20AC;&#x153;Wise, Humble and Effortlessly 4:10 6:45 Funny!â&#x20AC;? 9:30 R â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Newsweek

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BCD2:>=ÂźB27<D2:B½ We simply would not be serving our beloved readership if we didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t run a picture of Jemaine. Yeah, Steve Carellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s there, too.

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Film capsules by Richard von Busack, Caroline Osborn and Anna Schuessler. THE BOHEMIAN

07.28.10-08.03.10

39

Coyote Den Bar & Dance Hall

Saturday July 31st • 8pm

Purple Haze

Jimi Hendrix Cover Band

Thursday Night KARAOKE • 8:30pm $20 Free Play Drawings

707-485-0700 coyotevalleycasino.com

40

07.28.10-08.03.10

THE BOHEMIAN

5 miles North of Ukiah Hwy 101 • West Rd. Exit

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Dirty Old Town Now that the Black Cat in Penngrove has been soldâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;set to be renamed and restyledâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; chances to drink beer under the barâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous bras are sadly limited. This Sunday, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s longtime Black Cat bartender JDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s birthday party with 12 bands. Every act has been asked to cover a certain Pogues song, culminating in a gigantic birthday and farewell sing-along at the end. Start kissing goodbye to the placeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only a month leftâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;on Sunday, Aug. 1, at the Black Cat. 10056 Main St., Penngrove. 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;11:30pm. Free. 707.793.9480.

H:76HIDEDA

Running the Asylum Masters of schtick Baby Seal Club go cr-cr-crazy this weekend to raise funds for their upcoming CD, and all stops shall be psychotically pulled. Lunatic Binge includes a complete redecorating of the Hopmonk Tavern as a mental ward called Shady Lobe,

with costumed and bedpan-clutching inmates roving the grounds, and a lineup that includes Brothers Horse, Earstu, Deluxe Buckets and others. Inmates who check in at reception wearing a bathrobe, straitjacket or pajamas get a deal on admission fees on Saturday, July 31. 230 Petaluma Ave., Sebastopol. 8:30pm. $10-$15 707.829.7300.

H6CI6GDH6

Voice of Smooth Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s got such a smooth, distinctive voice, and yet after the glory era of â&#x20AC;&#x153;What a Fool Believesâ&#x20AC;? and â&#x20AC;&#x153;I Keep Forgettinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;,â&#x20AC;? Michael McDonaldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ride on the charts veered offtrackâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;for 20 years. Finally, a series of albums mining the Motown Records catalogue brought the blue-eyed soul singer back to prominence in the aughts. Last year, he bestowed upon the world his version of â&#x20AC;&#x153;While You Wait for the Othersâ&#x20AC;? by Brooklyn indie band Grizzly Bear, and he glides into town in all his white-haired, husky-throated glory on Friday, July 30, at the Wells Fargo Center. 50 Mark West Springs Road, Santa Rosa. 8pm. $20â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$90. 707.546.3600.

C>86H>D

Violins & Red Meat The Grammy-winning Kronos Quartet are known as much for their vast repertoire as for playing off beat venues, but even in eclectic settings, the group maintains an air of artistic highbrow. Then every once in a while they play an outdoor barbecue at Rancho Nicasio, and all ties are loosened. Bust out your cutoffs and throw back a brewskie to this killer avantgarde string quartet on Sunday, Aug. 1, at Rancho Nicasio. Town Square, Nicasio. 4pm. $27â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$30. 415.662.2219.

C6E6

Bought a Toothbrush With founding members Chris Difford and Glenn Tilbrook, Squeeze are a long-running pop-rock outfit in the continuing lineage of British bands famous in their homeland but with relatively marginal success in the States. Now iconic from FM airplay and Janeane Garofaloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sing-along in Reality Bites, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Temptedâ&#x20AC;?

is still the bandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest hit in America, although in Britain, Squeezeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s other hits are household terms. The two revive the new wave 1980s at a rare U.S. show with openers English Beat on Saturday, July 31, at the Uptown Theatre. 1350 Third St., Napa. 8pm. $55â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$70. 707.259.0123.

BDCI:G>D

The â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Otherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Bohemian In our own little version of WikiLeaks, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been brought to our attention that a certain charttopping 1970s band is performing inside the Bohemian Groveâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s annual white-guy orgy this week. Will they show up as special guests at the open-to-the-nonmillionaire-public Monte Rio Variety Show? Hey, 19 annual variety shows would be a feat, but this one reels in the years as the 99th annual event, where everyone from Merv Griffin to Steve Miller have gotten back and done it again as surprise guests. All proceeds go to local charities if you take your chances on Thursday, July 29, at the Monte Rio Amphitheatre. Main Street, Monte Rio. 7pm. $20â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$25. 707.865.2234.

6PQT<T[X]T

THE BOHEMIAN

07.28.10-08.03.10

41

A NON-PROFIT EVENT BENEFITTING LOCAL YOUTH GROUPS

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3DBC1>F;CA>D103>DA Mark Growden haunts the rafters July 30 at the Arlene Francis Theatre in Santa Rosa. See Concerts, above.

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Dark Dark Dark play for the 21st-century speakeasy ailing from Minneapolis with pit stops in New Orleans and New York, Dark Dark Dark is a band whose sound sneaks up on you, (gently) grabs you by the throat and doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t let go. While the sometimes fourpiece, sometimes six-piece, sometimes more-piece band could be categorized as just another group that would fit in comfortably at a dimly lit speakeasyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;you know, that slightly Eastern European, accordion-driven, Tom Waitsâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;worshipping style so common these daysâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;they really arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just one of the pack. This is mainly because of singer Nona Marie Invieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heartbreakingly beautiful voice, which manages to be tough, sweet and lilting all in one swoop. Dark Dark Dark swing by the Arlene Francis Theaterâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; formerly the North Bay Film and Art Collectiveâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;on Saturday, July 31, headlining an extensive bill that includes the Crux, Waters, Bill Wild, Little Lost Boys and Aerial Stereo. The band will perform songs from their most recent release Bright Bright Bright, a six-song beauty that begins with the subtly devastating, pianodriven title track. Lifting the mood is â&#x20AC;&#x153;Make Time,â&#x20AC;? taking the listener on a rollicking banjo- and trumpet-fueled romp into some land that is not quite the past and not quite the future. The last track, a cover of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Wild Goose Chaseâ&#x20AC;? by Elephant Micah, really puts the spotlight on Invieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s voice, which peels away at the songâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s layers, capturing the soft desperation in the songâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s themes of movement, loss and yearning. The bandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s core members, Invie and multiinstrumentalist Marshall LaCount, have stated in interviews that they are more into experimenting with different styles than being categorized in one genre, and this willingness to be open with musical inďŹ&#x201A;uences is obvious on Bright Bright Bright. From sad waltzes to joyful sing-alongs, Dark Dark Dark will brighten the darkest speakeasy with something new and different. Dark Dark Dark play on Saturday, July 31, at the Arlene Francis Theater. 99 Sixth St., Santa Rosa. 7pm. $10. www.brightbrightbright.com.

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Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Health Specialists confidential compassionate nonjudgmental More Than Just Health Care...

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07.28.10-08.03.10

THE BOHEMIAN



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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Suburbs,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; a new album from Arcade Fire he new Arcade Fire release, due out this Tuesday, is a concept album about the suburbs, using as its muse the tract homes, shopping malls and bad neighborhood planning that make up much of America. It is an intensely anticipated record, not least because two previous Arcade Fire albums brilliantly lived up to their themes, musicallyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the ascending majesty of Funeral, the eerie paranoia of Neon Bible. And indeed, the band delivers again: listening to The Suburbs is almost as boring as actually living in the suburbs themselves. The trademark elements that once built towers of bombastâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;torrential drums, group â&#x20AC;&#x153;ooaah-ooaah-ooaahs,â&#x20AC;? fervent strings, Win Butlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quaking, confessional voiceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;are all here, but they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t rise much taller than a ranch-style bungalow. In a contender for most underwhelming opening album track of the year, â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Suburbsâ&#x20AC;? clops around a Floyd Cramerâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;style piano ďŹ gure like a donkey on its way to the glue factory as Butler hohums about leaving town with a malaise that permeates the whole album. In the quirky â&#x20AC;&#x153;Modern Manâ&#x20AC;?â&#x20AC;&#x201D;taken at a 9/8 time signatureâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Butler admits, â&#x20AC;&#x153;I feel like Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m losing the feeling,â&#x20AC;? while themes of wasted hours, self-doubt, packing it in, losing touch and praying to God dot the other songs like fading freeway billboards. Tempo-wise, the band gains speed from downstroked quarter-notes (â&#x20AC;&#x153;Ready to Startâ&#x20AC;?) to eighth-notes (standout â&#x20AC;&#x153;Empty Roomâ&#x20AC;?) to danceable sixteenth-notes (â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sprawl II (Mountains Beyond Mountains),â&#x20AC;? which revels in the nighttime redemption of midnight makeout sessions and getting away from the cops on bikes). But thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a postjaded element that drags, especially on â&#x20AC;&#x153;Suburban War.â&#x20AC;? Halfway through, the song breaks into a faster tempo, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s entirely unlike the joyful dance-break release of Funeralâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x153;Wake Up.â&#x20AC;? Instead, the toms pound dreadfully, the violins ooze drama and the mermaid voices chime in some vague symbol of meaning while Butler complains that his old friends donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know him anymore. Much will be made of this recordâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s theme in the larger media, and to be gracious, the band sticks with it for the entire hour-long album. But despite its jabs at millionaires, private prisons, strip malls and sprawl, something is amiss. The band doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t appear lazy so much as shellshockedâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;as if thinking about suburbia for an extended period of time produced songs that sound stunned, instead of stunning. The Suburbs is in stores Tuesday, Aug. 3. Terry Gilliam directs a live YouTube webcast of the bandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Madison Square Garden show on Thursday, Aug. 5.

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July 30 CHROME JOHNSON July 31 Sun

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the last day saloon THE BAR AND RESTAURANT OPENS ON ALL SHOW DAYS AT 4 PM

BAUTISTA

Latin Fusion Dance Band 8:30pm

Fri

Fri

DmWdlEjWa^XBVg`Zi

Original Rock 8:30pm

Sat

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20 min from downtown Petaluma, 25 min from everywhere else!

A Rancho Favorite!

Fri

Sun

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HAPPY HOUR Mâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;F â&#x20AC;˘ 4â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6PM

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Reservations advised

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Take a scenic drive for a unique dining experience

Dinner and a Show

Wed, Aug 4 8:45-9:45am; 5:45-6:40 pm Jazzercise 10am-12:15pm Scottish Dance Youth and Family 7:10-10pm Singles & Pairs Square Dance Club

Santa Rosaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Social Hall since 1922 1400 W. College Avenue â&#x20AC;˘ Santa Rosa, CA 707.539.5507 â&#x20AC;˘ www.monroe-hall.com

+ IT'S ALIVE + TRANSMIT NOW 8/28 9:00 PM SHOW > $15 > 80'S DANCE HITS

TAINTED LOVE HAPPY HOUR! THUR S DAY-SATURDAY

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$1.50 PBR $2 DOMESTIC BEER $3 IMPORT/MICROBREW $3 WELL DRINKS & HOUSE WINE $3 APPETIZER MENU all shows are 21+ unless noted for reservations: 707.545.5876

707.545.2343 120 5th street @ davis street santa rosa, ca

lastdaysaloon.com THE BOHEMIAN

07.28.10-08.03.10

47

C. Donatiello Winery

Summer Music Series Live from the Middle Reach

:B@60

?HC Are you writing Miranda Lambert off just because sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s young, blonde and famous?

July

September

7-18 Pat Jordan Band 7-25 Samantha Lane

August

8-1 The Speedbumps 8-8 Chris Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Brien 8-15 Fred odell 8-22 sol Horizon 8-29 Damato

9-5 Hotel Cafe tour Buddy & Friends* 9-12 Troubaduo 9-19 Brian Bergeron 9-26 Lelia Broussard & Chris Pierce

October

10-3 Audra Connolly 10-10 John Gold

All Shows Sundays 1-4pm *9-5 will take place from 3-6pm

C. Donatiello Winery 4035 Westside Road Healdsburg, CA 707.431.4442

www.cdonatiello.com

48

07.28.10-08.03.10

THE BOHEMIAN



=TPa[h =PbWeX[[T Miranda Lambertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Americanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; obstacle

By Gabe Meline

0

ttention all you mandolin-lovinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, Strawberry Festivalâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;goinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, Todd Sniderâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; worshippinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, No Depressionâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;readinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, banjo-celebratinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, nasally whininâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, North Carolinaâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;movinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, lap-steel covetinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, microbrew-glugginâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, Hardly Strictly Bluegrassâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; pilgrimaginâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; hee-hawsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;I know what youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been saying behind Miranda Lambertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s back, because itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the same thing every twangier-thanthou â&#x20AC;&#x153;yâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;allternativeâ&#x20AC;? jackass who discovers the O Brother, Where Art Thou? soundtrack and suddenly turns into some straw-hat, batteredguitar Broke-ahontas always says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;New country sucks.â&#x20AC;? Of course, if people stopped believing increasingly meaningless music labels, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d hear Miranda Lambertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest album Revolution as the Americana masterpiece it simply hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t received recognition for. Case in point: the Americana Music Association, with 73 radio stations around the country reporting, released a â&#x20AC;&#x153;100 Best Albums of the Yearâ&#x20AC;? list in 2009. While some crossover picks like the Pretenders, Charlie Haden and Bruce Springsteen got plenty of spins, Miranda Lambertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nowhere to be seen. In the eyes of Americana radio, sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 26, blonde and on top of the CMT charts. Branded: pop-country. Lambert, who grew up in Lindale, Texas, population 5,024, writes her own songs, is on the road constantly, digs deep into the human experience and covers Julie Miller, John Prine and Fred Eaglesmith. If that

doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t give her Americana cred, then listen to her music, which sounds a lot more like Lucinda Williams than Carrie Underwood. Her No. 1 Billboard single â&#x20AC;&#x153;The House That Built Me,â&#x20AC;? about returning to a childhood home and pleading with the current residents to have a look inside, has all the pensive, delicately acoustic traits of Carrie Rodriguez or Emmylou Harris. I emailed Lambert recently to ask if she felt drawn more to the rugged Americana scene than the polished pop of the new Nashville. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I feel drawn to authenticity,â&#x20AC;? she replied, â&#x20AC;&#x153;to a message that I feel like I can sing and deliver to my fans and connect with them. I am not a fan of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;labelingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; music. For me, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s either good or not.â&#x20AC;? Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why alongside self-penned hits â&#x20AC;&#x153;Dead Flowersâ&#x20AC;? and â&#x20AC;&#x153;White Liar,â&#x20AC;? Revolution contains Prineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the Way the World Goes â&#x20AC;&#x2122;Roundâ&#x20AC;? and Millerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x153;Somewhere Trouble Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t Go.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;I have been a fan of John Prine and Julie Miller for a while now and love the way they seem to put words in a song that fits my sensibility,â&#x20AC;? Lambert writes. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Then my producer Frank Liddell played me a song by Fred Eaglesmith in the studio, and I started digging into Fredâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work and found this jewel of a song.â&#x20AC;? That song, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Time to Get a Gun,â&#x20AC;? might just be the ultimate bridge between the two mindsets. Written by Eaglesmith, an Americana darling who plays for small crowds and has a general delivery address for a record label, the song champions the redneck staple of firearms. Lambert delivers it with all the rough-and-tumble rhythm of a pickup bouncing along pocked dirt roads. But by far the highlight on Revolution is â&#x20AC;&#x153;Only Prettier,â&#x20AC;? a scathing, sarcastic jab at anorexic, social-climbing frenemies who â&#x20AC;&#x153;only weigh 100 pounds and stand five-footthree.â&#x20AC;? Over a mid-tempo swagger, Lambert spits, â&#x20AC;&#x153;I got a mouth like a sailor and yours is more like a Hallmark card . . . Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll keep drinkinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll keep gettingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; skinnier / Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m just like you, only prettier.â&#x20AC;? The songâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s parallels to Taylor Swift, to whom Lambert was incessantly compared when the two young songwriters burst on the scene in 2006, are uncanny. I mention this, but Lambert doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t own up to it. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Honestly, there is no real-life Skinny Minnie that inspired the song,â&#x20AC;? she claims of the collaboration with songwriter Natalie Hemby. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We try to write about life and things we know and feel like other people can relate to, and the subject matter of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Only Prettierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is just too fun to write about.â&#x20AC;? Swift, of course, isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t much threat to Lambertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s career anymoreâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and certainly not after Lambert swept the 2010 Academy of Country Music Awards, taking Album of the Year and Female Vocalist of the Year honorsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;but what does affect her fanbase are labels like â&#x20AC;&#x153;new countryâ&#x20AC;? and â&#x20AC;&#x153;Americanaâ&#x20AC;? that leave a lot of would-be fans unaware of her vast talent. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I am actually very lucky for some reason that the songs for my records seem to come together organically,â&#x20AC;? she notes. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hoping a wider, more openminded Americana fanbase follows. Miranda Lambert performs on Monday, Aug. 2, at the Sonoma County Fair. 1350 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa. 7:30pm. $25â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$40; separate fair admission required. 707.545.4200.

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Dancing Across Bordersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is en pointe hen philanthropist Anne Bass visited Cambodia in 2000 on a human rights mission, she naturally attended a local dance concert. Bassâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;who founded a ballet company in Ft. Worth and sits on the board of the New York City Ballet, among othersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;is heavily involved in the world of Western dance. A poor, uneducated 16year-old Khmer boy, Sokvannara â&#x20AC;&#x153;Syâ&#x20AC;? Sar, caught her eye. He had something, be it talent or presence, she couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t quite tell. Returning to the States, Bass kept thinking about Sy (pronounced â&#x20AC;&#x153;seeâ&#x20AC;?) and his abilities. She eventually brought him to America to learn ballet. Along the way, she learned how to be a filmmaker. Bassâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; documentary of Syâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s journey not only across the world but into the exacting and often incomprehensibleto-him world of ballet is captured in Dancing Across Borders, which she produced and directed. It screens July 29 in benefit for Elsie Allen High School, which is raising funds to attend the 2001 Edinburgh Fringe Festival. Traditional Khmer dance celebrates the earth; traditional French ballet celebrates manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ability to transcend the mere ground. Sy, an affable, hard-working young man at least four years too old to begin serious balletic training, transcends it all. Dancing follows him as he arrives with no English skills and the burden of his impoverished family upon him, marking the transition as he eventually becomes a polished performer and, finally, a member of the NYC Balletâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s corps, fluent in English and decidedly Western. The film finally cycles back to Sy, now 26, and home on a visit. Dressed in an ironic hipster truckerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hat and designer jeans, he deftly uses a machete to strip leaves for a Khmer version of a paper airplane. He talks somewhat grimly of â&#x20AC;&#x153;luckâ&#x20AC;? and its onus. He doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t belong at home any more. He doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t belong in America. He is something entirely other, now that Bass has formed him. He isâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s almost really darn sadâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;an artist. Dancing Across Borders screens on Thursday, July 29, at 7:30pm. A performance by classical Cambodian dancer and choreographer Charya Burt precedes. $20. Rialto Lakeside Cinemas, 551 Summerfield Road, Santa Rosa. 707.525.4840. Gretchen Giles

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ÂźC742A40C8>=½ Judy Chicago is among the artists gathered in the Slaughterhouse Spaceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest exhibit. See Openings, adjacent.

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Kathryn Bertineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s odd Olympic dash nspired by a viewing of the two-man luge event in the 2006 Winter Olympic games, the editors of ESPN.com wondered if it would be possible to light the fire under an average athlete and see him or her compete for the Olympic gold in under two years. This nugget of an idea quickly escalated into a pilot project; they only needed a driven but average athlete to accept the challenge. Kathryn Bertine fit the bill. A former professional figure skater, triathlete and cyclist, Bertine had a bevy of races under her belt and no internationally recognized wins. Plus, she was a writer. Bertine knows what itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like to literally put everything downâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;even her wedding engagementâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; and train for the love of the sport. When ESPN approached her, she was in the depths of despair. With an indestructible will but no sponsorsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a deadly combinationâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;she was working a part-time waitress job in order to maintain her workout schedule at the elite level. They called her just as she was about to walk into a fertility center to sell her eggs for a little extra money. Thus began her incredible journey toward Olympic qualification. Backed by the sports network, Bertine wove her way in and out of the Olympic Training Center in Colorado Springs as she tried her hand at the pentathlon, team handball and track cycling. Documenting her entire experience on ESPNâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s So You Wanna Be an Olympian? E-ticket series, Bertine swam, ran, jumped and jousted in her efforts to become an Olympic athlete. Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also written a book, As Good as Gold, which puts fitness into form, acting as a window into the secret lives of those ambitious enough to go for gold. On July 30, Bertine stands as a testament to the power of random intervention when she appears at the Vineman Triathlon Expo. Despite her efforts, Bertine was not able to visit Beijing as an Olympian, but that hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stopped her. With 2012 on the horizon, the 31-year-old is speeding toward the finish line again as a cyclist, one road race at a time. This time, however, it will be with the complete support of her fans, whom she has garnered over the past four years. At times, the response of her fans is her primary source of inspiration. In an interview with the Bohemian, she says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;I take the support of those who believe, and disregard anyone else. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the way to do it.â&#x20AC;? Bertine will gratify her fans and tri-hopefuls under the Trisports.com tent at the Vineman Triathlon Expo on Friday, July 30, at 8695 Windsor Road, Windsor. Noon to 3pm. Free. www.vineman.com/expo.

I

Anna Schuessler

Bfrom rews the world &Tasty Paround ub Grub

Hand-Crafted

Thursday, July 29 @ 6:00pm

LAGUNITAS Night!! Draft & Food Specials Music by Tony Magee !

Friday, July 30 @ 7:00pm

Gem Metal Whistle Folk Americana

Sat, July 31 @ 7:00pm

Jen Tucker Folk www.myspace.com/jennifertucker2008

Sun, Aug 1 @ 6 pm

Radio K-Bob 707.874.9037 | www.barleynhops.com 3688 Bohemian Highway, Occidental

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BOHEMIANCLASSIFIEDS

Placing an Ad

Contacting Us

§ By Phone Call the Department at 707.527.1200 Mon.-Fri., 8:30a.m.5:30p.m.

Bohemian Classifieds 847 5th Street, Santa Rosa, CA 95404 Monday through Friday, 8:30a.m. to 5:30p.m. ph: 707.527.1200

gg Employment

Computer Services

Jobs

For Sale

GOVERNMENT JOBS Earn $12 to $48 / hr. Full Benefits, Paid Training. Health Care, Admin/Clerical, Construction, Law Enforcement, Finance, Public Relations, Park Service & More. Call 7 days. 1-800-858-0701 x2011 (AAN CAN)

LAPTOP, Computer, LCD Panel $249, $99, $55- Like New! CRC Computer Repair Center, 3227 Santa Rosa Ave, 95407. FREE checkup, expert laptop repair, tune-up, spyware removal. 9am-5pm, Tues-Sat. 707-528-8340.

gg Career Development

Earn $75-$200 Hour Media Makeup Artist Training. Ads, TV, film, fashion. One week class. Stable job in weak economy. Details at www.AwardMadeUpSchool.com 310/364-0665. (AAN CAN)

Advertise your Job Opportunities in the Bohemuian Today! Call 707.527.1200 sales@bohemian.com

Consultants

MacAdvantage Macintosh FREE Diagnosis, Friendly In-House Staff Hardware/ Software, DATA Recovery, Internet, Email,Wireless Network Setup & Security, Apple Authorized Business Agent, Tam Nguyen-Chief Tech, M-F 10-6 info@themacadvantage.com 707.664.0400

g g Graphic Design

Golden Star Grafix

Need a quality designer? Business cards, brochures, flyers, posters, digital collage,

cd covers, photographic restoration, general marketing materials. Mark Schaumann 707-795-0924, schaumann1@earthlink.net

g Home Services Contractors

Code Engineering Women Business Enterprise. Don`t call those who guess, call the best. Plumbing, foundations, retaining walls, underground utilities and complete remodels. FREE ESTIMATES. CA License #488725 and #924420 707-293-6066.

g Remodeling/Repair

4/@E3AB@3AB=@/B7=<A 1=<AB@C1B7=< Â&#x2019;1O`^S\b`g>OW\bW\U Â&#x2019;0O[P]]4Z]]`W\U Â&#x2019;>Zc[PW\U3ZSQb`WQOZ Â&#x2019;;Oa]\`gBWZS1]\Q`SbS Â&#x2019;ASWa[WQ@Sb`]TWbbW\U Â&#x2019;@]]T@S^OW`a Â&#x2019;A]ZO`1]ObW\U Â&#x2019;>`Saac`SEOaVW\U Â&#x2019;5cbbS`1ZSO\W\U Â&#x2019;B`SSB`W[[W\U

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gg Decks/Fencing

Heritage Fence Builders Quality built to withstand time. Free estimates. All type of fencing and gates. Licensed Contractor. 707-321-7210

gg Miscellaneous Services

Real Estate RentalsALL AREAS -

Classes & Instruction

Homes

High School Diploma!

1O:WQS\aS%#$&'

â&#x2C6;&#x161; By Fax Fax your ad to the Classified Department at 707.527.1288

Family Services Adoptions

Pregnant? Considering Adoption? Talk with caring agency specializing in matching birthmothers with families nationwide. Living expenses paid. Call 24/7 Abbyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s One True Gift Adoptions. 866/413-6293 (AAN CAN)

Fast, affordable and accredited. Free brochure. Call Now!. 1-888-532-6546 ext. 97 www.continentalacademy. com. (AAN CAN)

Youth Failing School or School Failing Our Youth ? Try Rancho Bodega School Small Group/One on One Instruction - Enriched Middle/High School Curriculum - Special Studies/Independent Study - Emphasizing Music & Art Serving Grades 7-12 NOW ENROLLING !! Call 707-795-7166 www.ranchobodegaschool. com

ALL AREAS HOUSES FOR RENT Browse thousands of rental listings with photos and maps. Advertise your rental home for FREE! Visit: www.RealRentals.com (AAN CAN)

g Miscellaneous

ALL AREAS ROOMMATES.COM Browse hundreds of online listings with photos and maps. Find your roommate with a click of the mouse! Visit: www.Roommates.com. (AAN CAN)

Q UALITY G RAPHIC D ESIGN BUSINESS CARDS â&#x20AC;˘ BROCHURES POSTERS â&#x20AC;˘ T-SHIRTS â&#x20AC;˘ CD COVERS FLYERS â&#x20AC;˘ PHOTOGRAPHIC RESTORATION

general marketing materials

Mark Schaumann 707.795.0924

schaumann1@earthlink.net

Miscellaneous

Adult Services

g

DATING SERVICE

Long-Term/Short-Term Relationships, FREE-2-TRY! 1-877-722-0087 Adult Entertainment Exchange/Browse Personal Messages 1-866-362GayLive Network 1311.Live adult casual converCall, talk, hookup. Fast, easy, sations 1-877-599-8753 Meet local, gay str8, curious and on chat-lines. Local Singles bi men in hundreds of cities 1-888-869-0491 (18+) New!! across america. 1-877-359-1083 Talk Live!! 1-866-362-1311 (AAN CAN)

Free To Try! Hot Talk

1-866-601-7781 Naughty Local Girls! Try For Free! 1-877-4330927 Try For Free! 100â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Of Local Women! 1-866-517-6011 Live Sexy Talk 1-877-602-7970 18+ (AAN CAN)

A Rare Irish Rose Quality and maturity in Marin. Call for photos. Please, no calls after midnight. No private calls/texts. Kara, 415/233-2769.

SANTA ANTA RROSAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S OSA Aâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

HOTTEST H OTT TEST

SSINGLES I N G L ES

g Adult Massage

*North Bay Beauties* Convenient incall off 101. Ask about website pix. Kayla* 707-843-2271. Liza* 707-566-7866.

**Angelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Touch** â&#x20AC;&#x153;Newâ&#x20AC;? to area available for incall M-F. Angel* 707-526-6766

Call NOW!

TRY FREEI!T* Santa Rosa

707-206-6494 7 07-206 - 6494 COLLECT CALL BILLING! 1-866-607-5282 1-900 PRICING OPTIONS! 1-900-622-1100

18+ *Charges may apply to cer certain tain features.

THE BOHEMIAN

07.28.10-08.03.10

53

HEALTH&WELL-BEING g Healing & Bodywork

RELAX!

Relaxing massage and bodywork by male massage therapist with 11 yrs experience. 707-542-6856

PAIN/STRESS RELIEF Professional male massage; strong, deep healing bodywork. 1 hr/$50, 1 1/2 hr $65. 707-536-1516 www.CompleteBodyBalance. com

Man of Your Dreams Men, women, couples. TLC, massage, Tantra, nurturing mutual touch. William 707-548-2187

Blissful 4 Hand Massage

with man and woman, $195.00, William 707-548-2187

Lovely, Luscious, Sensual Massage Beautiful and private studio in the country near Santa Rosa. Lara 707-481-2644

A Safe Place To Be Real Holistic tantric masseuse. Unhurried, private, heartfelt. Monday thru Saturday. NEW CLIENT DISCOUNT. 707-793-2232.

MASSAGE FOR GUYS

Massage/Bodywork

Your entire body is squeezed and kneaded while you melt Strong, thorough, intuitive. on the table. Delightful 30 yrs. experience advanced bodywork with 25/50/75 - Colin, CMT whole body stretching. Call (707) 823-2990 707-824-8700 in Santa Rosa or Great Massage visit www.JamesDickson.net By Joe, CMT. Relaxing hot tub for pics & view my online schedule. and pool available. Will do outcalls. 707-228-6883.

An Oasis in Santa Rosa Julie and Friends Full body sensual massage by appointment. 10 am - 6pm. Private. Visa/MC accepted. 707-578-5444.

Mitch, CMT. Mature. Professional. Relaxing intuitive touch. Private discrete studio. 707-849-7409

Full Body Sensual Massage With a mature, playful CMT. Comfortable incall location near the J.C. in Santa Rosa. Soothing, relaxing, and fun. Visa/MC accepted. Gretchen 707/478-3952.

PUSH Therapy In pain and tired of relying on others to fix you? Learn self treatment with PUSH Therapy! Great for everything from neck pain to plantar fasciitis. Call (707) 665-9020

g Massage & Relaxation

Great Massage, Goddess Touch Swedish, Deep Tissue. Affordable. Free parking Downtown Santa Rosa. CMT Mary 707-228-3275

Four Seasons Excellent Thai Massage For Men and Women

World-Renowned Theologian

Massage • Reflexology Swedish/Shiatsu Open 7 Days: 10am-10pm

1626 4th St. Santa Rosa 707.526.6888

Golden Flower Massage Spa

• 30% discount Fri, Sat, Sun • Swedish & Deep Tissue Massage • Hot Stone Massage

g 699 Petaluma Blvd. N

707.765.1879

Swedish and Deep Tissue Massage with light stretching for men/women Flexible M-F schedule; Incalls only 60min/$60 | 90min/$75 Please call Leo 707-623-6096

Norma’s Massage abla Se hañol! Esp

54

07.28.10-08.03.10

Amazing Touch Massage

128 College Ave, Santa Rosa by appt only

Madame Lisa. Truly gifted adviser for all problems. 827 Santa Rosa Ave. One visit convinces you. Appt. 707-542-9898

Neck • Arms • Back Legs • Waist • Headaches Pulled Muscle • Tension Lack of Energy or Sleep

The Divine Feminine and The Sacred Masculine: The Divine Marriage Resurrected

707-542-7729 4857 Old Redwood Hwy, Santa Rosa

Meditation for Everyone – Mahakuna Buddhist Center Summertime Meditation Classes just $5 per Class. Jun through Sept 2nd. Three Introductory Meditations each Week: Tues, Wed, & Thurs 7:30–8:45pm. Everyone welcome. Make your summer meaningful. 304 Petaluma Blvd., N, Petaluma. www.meditateincal.org Share your organization’s inspiration with over 123,000 Bohemian Readers monthly!

Phone: 707.527.1200 email: sales@bohemian.com

Ayurvedic

Indian Head Massage

707.696.0685

Sensual, therapeutic. Relax, let go and enjoy. Summer Special. CMT in Santa Rosa. Call Bliss - 415/717-9378.

THE BOHEMIAN

10:30am Sunday Service (Love Offering) 1:00 - 3:30pm Workshop, $45:

Resources for your spiritual journey (ancient prayer/meditation practices, workshops/retreats, spiritual direction, art gallery, reading room, bodywork). 1601 Fourth Street, Santa Rosa, www.journeycenter.org 707.578.2121

Psychic Palm and Card Reader

10 years exp CMT

Do You Suffer Pain From:

2460 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa

Sunday, Aug 8th

Psychics

Therapeutic Massage Center Call 707.527.1200 Body Massage to advertise in the $55/hr Health & Well Being Today! Foot Massage $19.99/45 min Open 7 days 9-10pm

707.578.3088

Matthew Fox

The Journey Center: A Place for Transformation

Open 7 days 9am-10pm

Therapeutic and rejuvenating. Walk in or call. Open every day 9am-10pm. 7588 Commerce Blvd., Cotati. 707-992-0314.

NOW OPEN

SPIRITUAL CONNECTIONS Finding inspiration and connecting with your community

Guerneville M4M Massage

A Provider of Pleasure MAGIC HANDS In a safe, relaxing, comfortable space by a “mature”, compatible, easy-going gentleman! Since 1991 I`ve provided pleasure to women, men, couples. Good virtues. NW Santa Rosa, Jimmy, (C) 707-799-4467 or (L) 707-527-9497.

FLOWER SPA

• relief from tension headaches, eyestrain, and sinusitis • improves mobility in neck and shoulders • balances energy

Margery Smith 707.544.9642

Sign Up Now-Integrative Yoga Teacher Training Starting September 2010!! A 200 hour non-residential training, 1 weekend/month for 10 months. You will learn how the elements of yoga: asanas, pranayama, body awareness, guided imagery meditation and deep relaxation come together as a vehicle for health and healing. BodyWorks-Integrative Yoga and Stress Management Studio. 490 2nd Str., Petaluma 707-769-9933. www.bodyworksyoga.com

Certification in Ayurveda & Aromatherapy with DeAnna Batdorff Practical & Clinical Experience. Pulse/Assessment, therapeutic bodywork, nutrition, traditional medicine & more. In Sebastopol- Starts Sept. 2010. Curriculum online dhyanacenter.com 707-823-8818

Rocks and Clouds Zendo Introduction to Zen Meditation. Sun. Aug. 29th 9:00 am to 4:00 pm. Email us with any questions: daterra@sonic.net\ Or call (707) 824-5647

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THE BOHEMIAN

07.28.10-08.03.10

55

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